Flavour Magazine SW July 2011

flavour for people who love local food

South West | Issue 41 | July 2011

LEADING LADIES Inspiring stories from our favourite female chefs

WIN! Dinner, bed and breakfast at The Queensberry Hotel!

Purple Patch

Beetroot as you’ve never seen it before

LAST-MINUTE GETAWAYS www.flavourmagazine.com

Why it’s never too late for a mini-break

the Catherine Wheel

Real Ales, great food, Beautiful surroundings 39 High St, Marshfield, nr Bath, Wilts SN14 8LR Tel: 01225 892220 Visit:Â www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk Email: roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk

Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com Deputy Editor: Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com

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welcome

Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Alastair McClare, Account Manager Email: ali@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Jeni Meade, James Walker Contributors: Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Jennie Clark, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Peter Swanepoel, Mitch Tonks

Welcome to the July issue of flavour!

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The media world might be a hotbed of intrigue given the current News Corp controversy, but here at flavour HQ, our finger is so firmly on the pulse we don’t need to tap into Gordon Ramsay’s phone to bring you the very latest in food and drink news.

For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication.

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contents 8 In Season Tom Bowles and Peter Swanepoel cook up the best of the season’s produce 30 Leading Ladies

Inspiring stories from our

favourite female chefs 42 WIN!

Dinner, bed and breakfast at

The Queensberry Hotel!

43 Last-minute getaways Why it’s never too late for a mini-break 50 Purple Patch Beetroot as you’ve never seen it before

Whilst no one would deny that Delia is a national treasure and Nigella a national heartthrob, these ladies have undoubtedly earned their reputation as cooks in the domestic domain. In recent years however, more and more women are choosing to swap their apron strings for chef’s whites, and so this month, we speak to some of the industry’s most inspiring leading ladies on PAGE 30.

In the spirit of re-thinking tradition, we also ask whether French wine is as daunting as it seems (PAGE 28), whether there’s more than one way to take afternoon tea (PAGE 21) or perhaps most importantly, whether one summer holiday really is enough (PAGE 43).

We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed making it.

Happy Eating!

Holly Aurelius-Haddock.

> flavour news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month THE THREE GABLES A Grade II listed building in the centre of Bradford-on-Avon will open its doors on 14 July as new restaurant The Three Gables, inspired by Vito Scaduto and head chef Marc Salmon, both formally of The Bath Priory.

The opening sees one of Mr Scaduto’s other restaurants, the highly regarded Red or White in Trowbridge close, while the new restaurant gets going, but he’s confident that his new Mediterranean cuisine in Bradford-on-Avon will satisfy demand from both towns. Watch this space very closely… www.thethreegables.com

winner...

Congratulations to: David Uphill from Taunton who wins dinner, bed and breakfast at Marco Pierre-White’s new country pub in Wiltshire!

BELL INN CAMRA has announced the winners of its prestigious Pub Design Awards, which celebrate those pubs with “vision, imagination and a level of restraint in their design”.

Five pubs were singled out as this year’s winners by a team of judges including architects, historians and experienced pub campaigners.

The winner in the refurbishment category was The Bell Inn, Rode, Somerset, described by judges as a ‘characterful and imaginatively refurbished” pub with “a calming, historic colour scheme of green, cream, orange and brown; and delightfully heavy flock wallpaper.” New owner David Smith is delighted to have inherited such a good-looking pub! www.thebellatrode.com

SEEDS OF PROMISE Three local wines from Quoins Organic Vineyard near Bradford -on -Avon have won awards in the UK Vinegrowers Association annual contest.

Vineyard owner, Alan Chubb, will attend the prestigious presentation event at the House of Lords this month. Three Quoins wines have been recognised. The Orion 2008 vintage won a silver medal, while the Orion 2009 and the Madeleine Angevine 4

2009 won bronze medals. This is the fourth year running that vintages from the Quoins vineyard have won awards.

“I’m delighted that our hard work and attention to quality at every stage has been recognised in this way”, says Alan.

“English wines are going from strength to strength, and it’s great to be part of their success. I’m really looking forward to the award ceremony, and enjoying a fantastic Thameside view, too!” www.quoinsvineyard.co.uk

> flavour news

TICKLED PINK

TASTing note

Bath’s independent Wine Merchant, The Tasting Rooms in partnership with Gus Ashenford, (Michelin starred chef of Five North Street Restaurant, Winchcombe), is opening a new café/ brasserie in Green Street, in the heart of Bath. While calling on the expertise of Gus, the kitchen will be run by Gareth Phillips, producing food to match the wines sourced by William Baber, owner of the Tasting Rooms.

Dart Marina Health Spa in Dartmouth has a new range of luxury organic hand, nail and foot treatments from Pinks Boutique that are transforming fingers and toes this summer! Made in England from 100 per cent natural and organic ingredients, welcoming and knowledgeable therapists at

A bi-monthly wine and gourmet food dinner will be held, featuring the expertise brought by Gus Ashenford and inviting a guest chef for the evening – already lined up are Marcus McGuiness – Head Chef of Hibiscus Restaurant, London, and Tom Lewis, Monachyle Mhor Hotel, Scotland (featured in the original Great British Menu).

01225 463392 www.tastingroom.co.uk

WALK ON THE WILDSIDE Organised by the Organic Milk Cooperative (OMSCo) and hosted by organic farming family, the Hurfords, on Hill House Farm in Dundry, around 30 children from Bridge Learning Campus in Hartcliffe headed out on a unique ‘Hedgerow Safari’.

The children stalked voles, identified insects and brushed up on birdlife, before the aspiring safari rangers were joined by Jim Parkyn from Aardman Animations, who gave them a hands-on lesson in how to model their very own hedgerow inhabitant. As a well-earned treat for the intrepid botanists, the children were given the opportunity to enjoy a glass or three of the farm’s organic milk with their lunch.

For more information or to book your school or children’s group on their very own Hedgerow Safari, visit www.teachorganic.org.uk

Dart Marina Health Spa offer Pinks’ manicures and pedicures like no other - hands and feet are exfoliated and massaged to improve circulation, cuticles are cared for with oils and creams, the nail shape is perfected and treatment basecoats and colour are applied for the perfect finish. The products have a beautiful aroma and the experience is sheer bliss.

Dart Marina Health Spa also has Pinks’ organic waxing products, which are the first in the UK to be Soil Association approved. Time to get pampering!

01803 837182 www.dartmarina.com

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> flavour news

summer’s here Celebrate summer with River Cottage Summer’s Here out to own on DVD from 1 August. Hugh Fearnley-Whitingstall is back at the River Cottage HQ to celebrate the very best food the summer season has to offer.

As always, Hugh rustles up a range of impressive dishes using the finest edible delights from the garden, the hedgerow, the river and the stream. From the first crop of peas to some barbecue favourites, Hugh’s garden delicacies are washed down with lashings of homemade gorse flower wine.

MAJESTIC CRUISE Fancy a one-off, three-night foodie cruise? The Majestic Line is holding a ‘Taste of Autumn in Argyll’ cruise on Tuesday 18 October. The menus will include venison from the hill and free-range pork and beef, as well as seasonal fruit and vegetables complemented by locally-produced cheeses, smoked fish and shellfish and many other gourmet delights.

This amazing cruise sets sail from the beautiful Loch Fyne and takes in the islands of Bute, Cumbrae and Arran, all in their glorious autumn colours. www.themajesticline.co.uk

MC STAINABLE DELI DELI GOOD Bristol’s Arch House Deli has been announced as the South West’s Deli of the Year and is now up for the title of Deli Of The Year 2011.

The judges, a panel of experts from the food industry including buyers, retailers and journalists, were tasked with reviewing 120 delis from a total of over 400 nominations.

Arch House Deli will now go forward to the UK finals at the coveted food ‘Oscars’ of the fine food world in London in September. www.archhousedeli.com 6

McDonald’s is seeking to enhance its once heavily-criticised environmental record by switching to fish certified by the Marine Stewardship Council. As well as serving up officially sustainable Filet-o-Fish at 7,000 outlets, it will put the MSC logo on cartons, promoting the best-known scheme for preserving fish stocks.

McDonald’s in Europe is strong in some areas of ethical sourcing, say experts.

On eggs, the company uses only freerange eggs in its breakfast muffins.

Beef for its Big Mac and other burgers comes exclusively from 16,000 farms in the British Isles. The company only buys tea and coffee certified by the Rainforest Alliance, an environmental certification created by multi-national companies.

McDonald’s said it spent £530m a year buying British. Sign of the times perhaps?

> flavour news

cocktail of the mONTH

BRIDGE BRASSERIE

go green The Greenway Spa Hotel is a stylish destination with fine dining, luxurious interiors and an air of warmth, hospitality and sophistication. Its reputation for being one of the finest Cotswolds Country House Hotels has been taken to a new level with the fabulous new luxury Elan Spa. The Greenaway strives to provide consistently high levels of service and hospitality that enables them to confidently boast that they have all bases covered when it comes to weddings, leisure, business or complete spa experiences. Sounds just the ticket. www.thegreenway.co.uk

INDULGENT INN The Oxenham Arms is a truly magnificent 12th Century coaching inn nestling on the edge of Dartmoor, ideal for walking, cycling, fishing, horse riding and lots more.

The Ox has been carefully and sympathetically modernised to offer a contemporary, award-winning restaurant serving great local fare, much of it produced on the inn’s own farm.

So, whether you are dropping in for a pint, looking for a romantic hideaway, craving a memorable dinner or seeking an hour or two of pure self indulgence in the newly created Green Room beauty therapy centre, you’ll receive a warm welcome and experience unobtrusive but attentive service that is second to none.

01837 840244 www.theoxenhamarms.co.uk

The Bridge Brasserie, Chippenham, offers a complete and casual dining experience with a bespoke cocktail menu and wine list unlike anything else in the surrounding area. This month’s recipe promises to get even cocktail novices shaking – enjoy!

Mention flavour when ordering a Portal Colada at The Bridge Brasserie to receive another absolutely free!

Offer valid until 31/8/2011. www.thebridgebrasserie.co.uk

PORTAL COLADA 50ml Bacardi Gold rum 37.5ml pineapple juice 25ml vanilla syrup Juice of 1/2 a lemon Taylor’s LBV Port Method: Shake all ingredients except the port together. Strain over crushed ice and drizzle a small amount of port over the top.

DOOR 34 Fronted by award-winning bartenders Craig Edney and Andy Walsh, Door 34 opened last month in the heart of Bath’s theatre district.

Effortlessly stylish in design and feel, the team will mix you the classic dry martini, the ultimate mojito and anything in-between; best of all you can just give them a rough idea of how you feel and they’ll come up with a cocktail to suit. If it’s a corporate or team event you’re after then Door 34 also runs masterclasses and cocktail academies – a great way to make your party bubbly. www.door34.co.uk 7

> flavour in season

>Cherries Cherries are another summer fruit that has a fairly short growing season in the UK. From mid-July until the end of August British cherries are at their best. Most of the cultivated cherries will come from Kent. The best will be firm, plump and shiny. Avoid paler, shrivelled cherries as these are past their best or not fully ripe and won’t have anywhere near the flavour of the riper ones. Store them in the fridge as they won’t keep long in a warmer atmosphere. Sweet, fully ripened cherries are great just eaten as they are, fresh off the stalk. Sour cherries are great with fatty meats such as duck or even as part of a light and zingy British salsa!

Cherry preserve In a medium pan bring to the boil 400g sugar, 70ml water, juice and zest of two lemons, 1 star anise, 1 split vanilla pod. When the sugar is dissolved, add 500g of stoned cherries, simmer until fruit becomes transparent, transfer to kilner jar then cover and seal. Will keep for up to three months.

At their best >Aubergines

Aubergine soufflé Serves 4 Pre-heat oven to 180°C, score 2 aubergines and rub with garlic, thyme, olive oil and salt, roast in the oven until soft. Remove from the oven and scoop out the flesh. Separate 3 eggs, whisk egg whites to soft peaks and set aside, add the egg yolks, chopped garlic and thyme, oregano, 50g pecorino cheese, a tsp of cornflour, season to taste and fold the egg whites through the mixture very carefully. Butter 4 ramekins and line with more grated cheese, fill to just under the brim and bake in oven for 12 minutes or until golden.

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I’m sure for most of us the image of an aubergine is a shiny oblong fruit with a dark purple colour. There are however many other varieties such as the pea aubergine, popular in many Thai curries. It is often thought of as an exotic ingredient but from June to the middle of October they are widely cultivated in Britain. When buying look for unblemished, firm skin and a bright green stem. They store best in the fridge for up to a week. Although they are most commonly used in warming stews, bakes and curries they are also fantastic grilled. Just slice them into thick slices and cover them with salt on both side for 20 minutes, brush with oil and grill them on the barbie or in a hot grill pan and add to a simple summery salad.

> flavour in season

>Cucumbers Cucumbers have been cultivated for thousands of years and must be one of the most popular items in everyone’s shopping basket. This seems strange when you strip it down, after all they have very little nutritional value and are 96 per cent water! However they are a light, and refreshing addition to any salad which gives a wonderful crunch. In Southern Europe and the East they are highly prized and will almost certainly be served at every meal with plain yoghurt. Look for firm, vibrantly coloured cucumbers and store in a fridge for no more than a week. If you can get your hands on smaller varieties try pickling them yourself or just simply steep them in malt vinegar for an hour or two and enjoy them in a sandwich.

Cucumber Remoulade Serves 4 Peel 2 cucumbers, slice them lengthways and remove the seed with a teaspoon. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add 5g smoked maldon sea salt, 5g caster sugar, 1 tsp chopped capers, 1 tsp chopped gherkins, 1 tsp chopped mint, 1 tsp chopped chervil, 10ml sherry vinegar, 7ml creme fraiche and freshly cracked black pepper. Serve with seared scallops.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes.

Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Pieter Swanepoel from Cavendish Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

right now >Raspberries

Easy raspberry and yogHurt sorbet Serves 4-6 In a mixing bowl bring together 800g raspberries, 50ml balsamic vinegar, 50ml maple syrup, 250ml natural yoghurt, a sprig of mint juice and zest of 2 limes. Lightly crush together and freeze. When frozen transfer to a food processor and blitz until smooth and serve straight away or store in freezer.

Although it starts as early as May the raspberry season doesn’t really get going until July when the shelves are filled with these soft, velvety berries. Many of the UK’s raspberries are grown in Scotland where the soft berries can benefit from the long summer days. Look for berries that are plump and dry with a good firm shape. When picked and without their husks they are very delicate so handle with care and store in the fridge for no more than a day or two. Raspberries are a truly versatile summer berry and are great puréed for sauces, preserving for jams or just enjoying as they are with icing sugar and cream.

Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. www.hartley-farm.co.uk

With two AA rosettes, The Cavendish Restaurant and Bar is a hidden gem in the heart of Bath serving the best of modern British cuisine. www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk 9

A Cruise for Food Lovers on the West Coast of Scotland

Enjoy exceptional hospitality aboard our unique Scottish cruises with a fabulous menu of local speciality produce, freshly prepared by your onboard chef. Taste fish and shellfish from the sea lochs; venison from the hill; free range lamb, pork and beef and seasonal fruit and vegetables.

The fresh produce is complemented by locally produced cheeses, smoked seafood and many other gourmet delights.

Our charming traditional vessels accommodate 11 guests in 6 ensuite cabins. Enjoy a “floating house party“ and meet new people or gather your friends and family for a Whole Boat Charter at discounted prices.

Choose from 12 itineraries cruising through breathtaking Highland scenery, with lots of wildlife to spot. Daily shore trips explore the fascinating history and heritage of Argyll, a stunningly beautiful area of the West Coast of Scotland.

Getting to our cruises The Scottish Highlands are nearer than you think! We offer free pickup from Glasgow Airport for a one-hour transfer to our Holy Loch departures in South Argyll. Our North Argyll cruises depart from Oban, which is a 2.5 hour drive or train journey through amazing scenery and transfers by road can be arranged at cost.

Phone or email Marie on 0131 623 5012 email info@themajesticline.co.uk or visit www.themajesticline.co.uk

> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

fab foodie reads THE GOOD COOK SIMON HOPKINSON BBC Books, £25

Simon Hopkinson loves food and he knows how to cook it. The Good Cook is the result of over 40 years’ experience and is based on Simon’s belief that a good cook loves eating as much as cooking.

Simon explains how the ingredients you choose and the way you cook them will turn a good recipe into a great dish and how a cheap cut of meat cooked with care can taste as nice as a choice cut prepared by indifferent hands.

Pick of the Month!

Structured around Simon’s passion for good ingredients (anchovy and aubergine, cheese and wine, smoked and salted fish, ham, bacon and a little pig) and written with Simon’s trademark perfectionism and precision, this is a book that you will cherish for life.

RICK STEIN’S SPAIN RICK STEIN

SPICE IT UP LEVI ROOTS

I LOVE TO BAKE TANA RAMSEY

Spain is a country that tantalises every sense with its colourful sights, evocative music, vibrant traditions and bold cookery. In Rick Stein’s Spain, published to accompany a new four-part BBC Two series, Rick Stein explores Spain’s diverse regions in his search for real Spanish food.

This journey leads him to discover some of the best tapas bars and taste authentic ingredients. With over 100 location and recipe photographs, this is an essential book for food-lovers as well as a stunning culinary guide to a diverse country with so much to offer.

The fabulicious Levi Roots is back with a fourth cookery book to bring some Caribbean sunshine and spice to your kitchen. In Spice It Up! Levi has plundered his spice cupboard and shares his favourite recipes to show how to transform the most simple of dishes into tasty triumphs bursting with flavour. The Caribbean is famous for its spices, with its vibrant chilies, pungent peppercorns and fragrant nutmeg, allspice and cinnamon. Everything in Spice it Up! is easy to prepare, easy to cook and sure to add a bit of spice to your life. Nuff said…

I Love to Bake is Tana Ramsay’s ultimate guide to family baking and is packed with over 100 recipes of sweet and savoury oven-cooked recipes for all the family, from pies to biscuits to cakes. There are ideas for every occasion; from baked treats for school lunch boxes, fun ideas for children’s parties, through to indulgent desserts for Christmas Day. Tana has built a reputation around her trusted recipes that are always accessible, affordable and can easily be tailored for every taste and diet. I Love to Bake is the perfect companion for both the novice baker and those more experienced.

BBC Books, £25

Mitchell Beazley, £18.99

Octopus, £14.99

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le M A Z O T brasserie

at Whatley Manor 31st July — Sunday Cinema Screening ‘The Social Network’ starring Jesse Eisenberg and Justin Timberlake £39 includes a three-course lunch or dinner served in ‘Le Mazot’, film and popcorn 21st August — Sunday Jazz Lunch £39 includes a three-course lunch served in ‘Le Mazot’ while listening to live jazz from 12.00pm until 3.30pm 6th September — Grand Chef Trophy Dinner & Champagne Taittinger A specially created celebratory five-course set menu will be served in ‘The Dining Room’ prepared by ‘Grands Chef’ Martin Burge with a selection of Taittinger Champagnes £149 includes a five-course set menu, and Taittinger champagne Special event room rates from £230 in conjunction with the events listed above

Call Events on 01666 834 026 or email events@whatleymanor.com

Whatley Manor Easton Grey Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0RB Telephone +44 (0) 1666 822 888 Email reservations@whatleymanor.com www.whatleymanor.com

Set two-course lunch £19 Three-course Sunday lunch £28 Three-course á la carte menu from £34 Wines by the glass from £5.50

> flavour martin blunos

jamaica St Paul’s Carnival might be over for another year, but this month Martin Blunos shows you how to enjoy a Taste of Jamaica whenever you fancy...

I was at the Taste of London Food Festival recently taking part in the Taste of Jamaica forum and spent four days working alongside some of the nicest people I’ve ever met. Chefs Collin Brown and Anthony Matthews taught me about some of the wonders of Jamaican cuisine, one of simplicity and honesty that relies on the freshest of ingredients and cooking that comes from the heart.

Although our backgrounds are very different culturally and demographically (Jamaica and Latvia are opposite sides of the world) when we got talking about food it was amazing how much we had in common – both of us ate hearty bowls of pig’s tail broth as kids – Collin’s grandmother lifted his with a few slivers of scotch bonnet pepper and my mum would

chop in a vinegary crisp gherkin to cut through the richness.

Jerk is a word associated with Jamaican cuisine and there are many different jerk seasonings; from dry rubs to marinades and from hot and spicy to sweet and mild.

Here is my version, which has universal use. Try a teaspoon mixed into a couple of dollops of mayonnaise to make a fiery dip for raw vegetables, or rubbed onto the skin of chicken pieces and grilled or barbied to make the classic jerk chicken.

A word of warning with Scotch bonnet peppers – they are hot, very hot, so be careful and rub your hands with a little vegetable oil to act as a skin barrier before cutting them up. Remove seeds and discard for a less fiery hit (the Jamaicans leave them in and so should you if you want that eye-watering burn!). But don’t, whatever you do, rub your eyes or deal with an intimate itch during, or after preparing these unassuming peppers.

You have been warned…

JERK Ingredients 75g allspice berries 85g soft dark brown sugar 6 large garlic cloves, peeled 5 Scotch bonnet peppers, halved and seeds removed 2 tbsp fresh thyme (minus stalks if hard and woody) 2 bunches of spring onions, roughly chopped 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground nutmeg 3 tbsp of light soy sauce Method Add all ingredients to a food processor and blitz until smooth (can be left a little coarse if desired).

Put into a jar, seal and store in the fridge. Can be used straight away.

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks.

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Myrtle Farm, Sandford, Somerset BS25 5RA Tel 01934 822862

www.thatcherscider.co.uk

> flavour devilled egg

devilled egg It’s now exactly one year since The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy embarked on in its mission to bring fine dining back into the home...

Having launched the website for her cookery school on July 1st last year, owner Barbora Stiess is celebrating the anniversary by relaunching online with a huge array of added features, making it more interactive, informative and fun.

The Kitchen Academy itself aims to “unlock the secrets of the professional kitchen,” giving foodies the skills, techniques and knowledge to produce culinary delights at home, as well as what to look for when dining out. The new website will add a new dimension by way of monthly-changing recipes, seasonal tips, a blog featuring news and reviews, and ‘mini cookery classes’ online. These video tutorials will cover topics such as perfecting the profiterole, preparing pan-fried scallops with crab risotto and a Champagne beurre blanc, and ghoulish canapés for Halloween. The Devilled Egg has all the bases covered.

Barbora and the team are passionate about embracing modern approaches to nutrition and wellbeing in a fun and accessible way. Go to www.thedevilledegg.com and click on Events>Retreats for the latest information.

Barbora is not one for standing still, and this is one of many initiatives to take The Devilled Egg and its ideas to a wider audience. Whilst her early experience in restaurants may have honed her technical abilities, the people contact she thrives on was totally absent in these years. In response, The Devilled Egg was created as a platform to explore and share techniques, processes and ideas with everyone.

Fitness and Flavour, starting midOctober, is to be a series of luxury breaks focused on the importance of living sensibly but pleasurably, held at various lavish locations in the South West.

These informative but fun events are about adjusting to a fast-paced life and cultivating a healthy relationship with food and fitness. The goal is to incorporate cooking, conscious eating and exercise into a busy schedule. “These retreats are not to be seen as ‘boot camps’,” Barbora says, “they are about enjoying life to the full, whilst taking care of yourself and your body.

“I will be cooking all the dishes for the retreats and participants will be able to assist during service. I want to take the opportunity to dispel some unhelpful cookery myths and conventions such as people’s aversion to salt, why meat should be browned and why sifting flour is a waste of time. In case that’s not interesting enough, there will be wine tasting too!”

All dietary requirements will be catered for and cookery demos will cover a wide range of topics and potential queries.

Barbora will be joined on these retreats by Emma Morris, a personal trainer based in Bristol who will offer a range of different fitness and training activities during the stay. Together they will help participants foster a healthier and more enjoyable attitude towards exercise and nutrition. ■ 15

> flavour montpellier chapter

montpellier chapter This month, Jennie Clark finds unlikely urban chic at The Montpellier Chapter in Cheltenham...

At first glance, the Montpellier Chapter could be a foreign embassy in the centre of Cheltenham. The grand, flag-adorned, white façade almost upstages the Georgian splendour of one of the town’s most desirable areas.

For mains I again went for the special – Dorset lemon sole with hollandaise. The fish was slightly overdone, just by a few seconds – a hazard of cooking off the bone – but the glorious sauce and fresh flavours more than compensated.

We were shown into the library, where we browsed coffee table books at large, low sofas and drank cider mojitos. We were also presented with an iPad to browse the wine menu – we could search by region, price, grape or vintage, and even place our order on it!

We were also pleased to sample more Trealy fare in the main – pork fillet wrapped in cured ham, honey glazed belly and crackling. The pork was moist and pleasantly pink – the serving staff did let us know beforehand – and the dish sticky and rich.

The whole building is full of unique, modern design pieces – despite the age of the building, the sheer size of the rooms and high ceilings means it’s well suited to showcase some of the more unusual features.

On the evening menu, diners can also choose from homemade pizzas from the huge feature oven at one end of the dining room, and a full range of steaks from rump to chateaubriand for two. Compared to the range of mains and starters, the number of pizzas on offer was actually a bit disappointing – we were delighted with the semi-open kitchen arrangement, but even with a full restaurant we didn’t get to see it in action.

Like much of the building, the dining room is not quite what you’d expect – rather than the fastidious hush the natural grandeur might have inspired, it feels more like an urban canteen. A single, huge canvas on one wall depicts a lorry on a forecourt in the rain.

The front of house staff were knowledgeable, chatty and friendly – it was on the recommendation of the maître d’ I had the special starter of calves’ liver and poached egg salad. It was a generous bowl of fresh and perfectly-cooked ingredients, pink liver atop a plump salad of leaves, bacon, broad beans and peas.

The Montpellier Chapter Bayshill Road Montpellier Cheltenham GL50 3AS 01242 266708 www.themontpellierchapterhotel.com 16

We were also keen to sample the Trealy Farm-cured meats with cornichons and piccalilli. Over the past few years the Monmouthshire charcuterie has become a restaurant staple, and I would also say a fridge must-have! We were treated to fennel seed-coated bresaola, wood smoked cured ham, chorizo and peppery salami.

For dessert we tasted the amazingly homely treacle tart – we were told it was one of the chef’s treasured traditional recipes, and the chocolate cake – which was dark and gooey, served with Chantilly cream.

The Montpellier Chapter is open for lunch, dinner, afternoon tea and drinks – there’s also 60 rooms, including a luxurious penthouse suite with a private terrace facing onto the Cotswold hills. Guests can enjoy private dining and spa treatments – all within a few paces of Montpellier’s bars, delis and boutiques.

So don’t feel you need to dress for an audience with the President to dine at The Montpellier Chapter. The simple, delicious food, laid-back atmosphere and idiosyncratic design will keep you going back time after time. ■

> flavour xxxxxxx

Presented with an iPad to browse the wine menu, we could search by region, price, grape or vintage, and even place our order on it...

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> flavour mitch tonks

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

Here’s the ca ch With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month new flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...

This month:

lobster This is prime time for native lobsters – not to be missed. If you’re thinking of celebrations, summer parties, a treat of a meal from the ocean there are a few things that might come to mind – oysters, large turbot, wild prawns, Dover sole, diver-caught scallops, maybe caviar – but often lobster features in that list. Lobsters are pretty much always an expensive choice (avoid them at Christmas, prices are ridiculous and often they won’t be native anyway but Canadian). If you don’t mind a claw missing ask your fishmonger 18

for a ‘cripple’, it will be cheaper and taste the same as one with two claws!

Lobster is all about sweetness and texture so it is important not to overcook it as it will become tough and you will lose half of its experience. The claw, tail and brown meat all have different characteristics, the brown meat being rich and creamy, the tail meat firm and juicy and the claw is more smooth and sweet. The best way to enjoy lobster in my mind is to halve it, lay it flesh down on the barbecue for a couple of minutes then turn over and cover with garlic butter and continue on the barbecue for another couple of minutes only. You get the delicious sweetness and the taste of the sea from the lobster this way, so simple but really showcases why lobster is so sought after.

> flavour mitch tonks

Lobster Calderetta You will need – serves 2 1 lobster weighing about 750g 1 red pepper 1 green Pepper 3 cloves garlic 4 tomatoes, finely chopped Pinch saffron 1 Jar fish soup 1 small dried birdseye chilli Handful finely chopped parsley Glass white wine Splash of brandy Olive oil

garlic. Remove the claws from the lobster and crack. Then split it in half and scrape out any dark meat inside and reserve.

Chop into chunks. In a large pan add the olive oil and fry the chopped peppers and garlic gently for 5 minutes, add the lobster and cook for another 5 minutes, add the brandy and boil off the alcohol then add the wine and do the same, add the saffron, chilli and tomatoes and then add a cup of fish soup and 3 cups of water, add half the parsley, cover and cook gently for 10 minutes.

Method First blanch the lobster in boiling salted water for 5 minutes and then cool. In a food processor finely chop the peppers and

Now add the reserved brown meat from the lobster and with the lid off cook for a further 10 minutes, sprinkle over the remaining parsley and serve.

Recipe taken from FISH by Mitch Tonks published by Pavilion. Recipe photo by Ed Ovenden, whole lobster photo by Chris Terry. Š Mitch Tonks Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill 19

The Biddestone Arms is an award-winning pub nestled in the quintessential Cotswold village of Biddestone, Wiltshire. It prides itself on its food, with fresh fish delivered within hours of being landed and game sourced from local estates.

With seating available for up to 80 guests, The Biddestone Arms makes a delightful

venue for weddings and other functions. There is access from the restaurant through to the impressive garden, perfect for a marquee to host canapés and arrival drinks.

• Award-winning food • Casque Marque award for real ale •T wo/three course set lunch £11.99/£14.99 • Impressive Sunday Carvery

Biddestone Arms The Green, Biddestone, Nr Chippenham, Wiltshire, SN14 7DG T: 01249 714377 W: www.biddestonearms.co.uk

The Bridge Brasserie Serving modern British & European cuisine alongside an extensive wine list & hand crafted cocktails Open for lunch & dinner Tuesday - Saturday.

Visit our website to view our current menus.

8 New Road, Chippenham, Wiltshire, SN15 1HH. 01249 444522 www.thebridgebrasserie.co.uk

Image courtesy of Utterly Sexy Cafe

all the

tea & ' china Pop the kettle on, grab a biscuit and discover some remarkable facts, varieties, uses and styles of the nation’s favourite drink...

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> flavour xxxxxxx

Despite being held up as a quintessentially British tradition, should we think twice next time we fancy a brew?

the perfect cuppa As a nation we drink more than 160 million cups of tea a day and 98 per cent of those are taken with milk. That statistic, by definition, would lend us to believe that the herbals, the greens, peppermints and iceds of the tea world are failing to get a solid foothold in the market, or at least are fighting an uphill battle. But that’s not necessarily the case as over the past few years there has been a significant swing to these ‘Builder’s Tea’ alternatives.

The ‘hippie’ tag labelled to green teadrinking ‘bohemians’ has been replaced by an understanding that there are actually 22

benefits above and beyond a caffeine hit or sugar rush. Studies have revealed that green tea contains antioxidants and it can also stimulate your body’s metabolism, helping to burn calories faster and thus helping with weight loss. Some clever people are also pointing to the fact that it

“

we drink more than 160 million cups of tea a day and 98 per cent of those are taken with milk

“

Ask our continental friends to name a few things common to Britain and you are likely to find ‘roast beef’, ‘football’ and more recently ‘Kate Middleton’ featuring frequently in their replies. One thing you would find more than often on their hit lists, however, would be our obsession with tea.

may also reduce the risk of heart disease.

Green tea, we do know, is the least processed of them all and that can only be a good thing.

One tea-based drink that is making its mark in the market is iced tea, despite our permanent struggle against the weather. In the US, 85 per cent of all tea is consumed with ice and although that figure is never likely to be reciprocated over here, we are becoming more open to the idea and are giving it a tighter berth.

Whether we are willing to embrace change or not, the fact remains that while we account for a mere 0.91 per cent of the world's population, we are responsible for 6 per cent of its tea consumption and as such could be considered as authorities on the subject. We like our tea over here and the amount drunk is second only to water, so let’s celebrate that fact and give them all a try. You never know…

> flavour teapigs

teapigs With numerous health benefits and without the sugar content of most soft drinks, why not try a refreshing alternative with a cool iced tea?

Iced tea in minutes

Nick and Louise started teapigs in November 2006 after meeting while working for a larger tea company, from where their passion for all things tea began. The more they learned the more they drank and the more they realised that there’s a whole world of teas out there that are just not getting the attention they deserve. And so teapigs was born.

Nick describes himself as a tea evangelist (although much nicer than the shouty ones on TV), while Louise, an experienced tea taster who has travelled the world tasting teas, is a self-confessed tea addict not seeking rehab. Together they founded teapigs, a company that can best be described as ‘no airs, no graces, just real tea’. Since 2006 the teapigs team has grown to nine people and Harvey the dog!

If there’s one thing us Brits love more than tea, it’s talking about the weather and once again this year, one or two sunny weekends have inspired growing optimism for the coming months. And what better way to enjoy the golden rays than with an iced tea?

Just add one tea temple per person to a glass or jug. Add one inch of boiling water to cover the tea temples and allow the tea to infuse for 3-5 minutes.

Top up with ice and then add cold water. Finish with garnish and enjoy!

yet we are still semi-reluctant to embrace an iced tea culture celebrated outside of Britain. Iced tea needs not be the sugary drinks found in bottles, but a healthy and refreshing all natural drink.

Because we only use the very best whole leaves, flowers and fruits, our easy to make iced teas offer a clean tasting brew with no nasties.

Better still, at just three calories per cup and with numerous health benefits, iced tea offers a great alternative to most soft drinks.” If all else fails teapigs teas are also delicious hot. Better have the kettle to hand just in case!

Happy brewing!

Louise, the teapigs tea taster says: “We are a nation of tea drinkers,

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www.teapigs.co.uk

irresistible iced teas

Mao feng green tea Calming and bursting with antioxidants green tea is perfect for those moments of relaxation and meditation. Garnish with cucumber and mint.

Liquorice and mint We’ve blended pure liquorice root with peppermint leaves to create a naturally sweet and refreshing drink. Drink as it is – naturally sweet. Caffeine free.

Super fruit Boosting, berry-filled brew perfect for boosting antioxidant levels. Try with a touch of honey and some summer berries.

Caffeine free.

Darjeeling Earl Grey The finest Darjeeling tea, delicately blended with bergamot and cornflower petals. Garnish with a slice of lemon.

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> flavour all the tea & china

rocke cottage tea rooms I

s there anything more quintessentially British than afternoon tea (even if it does originate from India and China, is served in Italian Spode and is called things like ‘Russian Caravan’. Taking afternoon tea has been a national pastime since Victorian times and, despite the onslaught of coffee shops to these shores, it is one that is making a big resurgence,

not least because of places like Rocke Cottage Tearooms in South Shropshire Set in a beautiful 400-year-old house, Rocke Cottage is a traditional tearoom decorated in the style of the 1930s and 1940s, with interesting period adverts, magazines and prints on the walls. Soft music from the period is played in the background and in favourable weather you can also enjoy the large cottage garden with its tree house, fairy garden and pond.

The Afternoon Tea menu is presented with reference to popular nursery rhymes to further enhance that cosy feeling of a bygone era.

Abcott Clungunford Craven Arms Shropshire SY7 0PX T: 01588 660631 W: www.rockecottagetearoom.co.uk

‘Oranges and Lemons say the Bells of St. Clement’s consists of lemon drizzle, or St. Clement’s cake, served with aromatic Lady or Earl Grey tea. The full Afternoon Tea, entitled ‘Polly Put the Kettle On,’ is a particular indulgence and includes sandwiches, cakes, scones, crumpets and tea, all presented on pretty tiered stands. Rocke Cottage has just won the ‘Top Tea Place 2011’ from the UK Tea Guild, so you are sure of a treat when you visit.

utterly sexy café Created and founded in 2004 by Amanda Baird, herself an experienced caterer, styler, designer and trompe l’eoil artist for over 30 years, the Utterly Sexy Café will plan, organise and style a breathtakingly event for any occasion.

Always an innovator and designer, Amanda now combines cooking, food decoration and styling for a multi-sensory experience.

A major component of her work is producing exquisite hand-painted wedding cakes that transform into works of art.

The Utterly Sexy Café offers a selection of menus for lunch, tea or dinner from elegant canapés, mains and puddings, brought to your table by courteous staff wearing 1950s aprons, or served from a fabulously adorned and decorated buffet table.

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Anything and everything is available from barbecues and outside cooking to the rather special afternoon tea, which can be the quintessential teatime menu complete with vintage china. There are a number of unusual wedding venues around the Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire borders that have been tried and tested to perfection.

Charming waiting staff in retro outfits offer hand-decorated cakes from glistening glass cake stands and tea from silver or china teapots. Wedding receptions are a highly visual experience with beautifully decorated marquees and magnificent table centres of seasonal sweet smelling flowers fresh from the garden.

An experience that promises to remain with your guests for years to come…

T: 01747 870812 W: www.utterlysexycafe.co.uk E: amanda@utterlysexycafe.co.uk

Coffee Soup Salads Bruschetta Panini Wines The Loft, Bartlett Street Bath BA1 2QZ 01225 335380 Weekdays 10.00 to 5.30 Sundays from 11.00 to 4.00 www.cafelucca.co.uk Eat in or Take Home!

> flavour panasia

panasia On a mission to delve into the unknown, this month flavour Editor Holly Aurelius-Haddock finds Eastern promise in the heart of Bath…

Ever wary of a gap-year cliché, I have to confess the appeal of visiting Thailand in my student days was virtually non-existent.

Hearing the same culinary tales of pad thai and variable street food over and over made the destination feel somehow like a well-trodden path – such are the pitfalls of the tourist industry.

During a recent interview with the great Michel Roux Senior however, I was served a generous portion of humble pie. Mr. Roux had just returned from Bangkok and, for a man whose exacting standards saw his restaurant win the UK’s first one, two and three Michelin stars, he couldn’t speak highly enough of Thai cuisine.

“I love Thai food. There’s something wonderful about the delicacy of it. They use spices in a very nice way – the dishes are light and very healthy on the whole. The key to it is lots of fresh herbs, a little spice and good produce.” Not wishing to ignore sage words, I decided the best solution was to explore this relatively unknown territory from the comfort of my own surroundings before committing to the 11-hour flight.

Panasia 2 George Street Bath BA1 2EH 01225 481001 26

Occupying a prime position on Bath’s bustling George Street, Panasia’s charcoal grey exterior and gold signage belies the stylish and vibrant décor beyond its doors. Inside, the restaurant’s understated wooden furniture is interspersed with silk-embroidered wall mounts and elegant lanterns. A dividing wall of tiny shimmering mirror tiles adds to the overall opulence, yet nothing feels at all busy or gaudy.

Nothing gets things off on the right foot like a killer cocktail – an art that Panasia

are well versed in. Geisha Blush, their signature drink of infused vodka, rose liqueur, yuzu, lychee and a hint of coconut served tall with rose petal is quite literally out of this world, but if the boys are put off by the feminine overtones, be sure to order them a Sake-jito, Panasia’s twist on a Mojito made with fresh mint, palm sugar, fresh limes, Ozeki sake and Mekhong rum finished with soda – equally as moreish. In-between drink sipping and menu browsing, I also watched staff greet customers like old friends, in many cases by their first names.

If you can tear yourself away from the drinks menu and people watching however, the soft shell crab with fresh mango salsa and wasabi mayonnaise is a must-try. Eating a deep-fried crustacean whole certainly sounds a bit daunting, but it was greedily dunked into the fiery mayonnaise and devoured within minutes.

The mango brought the colour and softer texture to the equation.

As a die-hard fan of confit duck, I was sceptical as to whether the grilled marinated duck breast with tamarind sauce and crispy shallot cooked ‘Ped Makarm’-style could better it. I was wrong.

The succulent strips of meat were coated in the most aromatic of gooey sauces and fell to pieces at the mere suggestion of the fork. A lightly steamed side dish of pak choi with garlic proved the ideal bedfellow.

If all Far Eastern food is as lovingly prepared as this, Michel Roux’s praise (not unsurprisingly) is very well placed. A few more experiences like Panasia and I might just be recounting people with a few Thai travel tales of my own… ■

Geisha Blush, their signature drink of infused vodka, rose liqueur, yuzu, lychee and a hint of coconut served tall with rose petal is quite literally out of this world

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> flavour seeds of change

Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.

seeds of

change

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> flavour seeds of change

T

he mention of French wine is enough to make some UK consumers go running for the hills. Immersed in snobbery and complexity, most people choose firmly to avoid the whole category for fear of looking stupid or rendering themselves bankrupt.

I sympathise enormously, but I have to feel a certain amount for the French as well. With a wine industry steeped in tradition and prestige, they have a fabulous and diverse portfolio to offer and yet are experiencing a decline in sales in the UK every year. Long gone are the days of all-French wine lists outside all but the most specialist of restaurants as our palates have moved away from the serious, tannic reds of Bordeaux and towards a more fruit-driven, modern-style from Australia, Chile and their Southern Hemisphere counterparts. This in itself is no bad thing, as I’m all for menu variety, but it has left us a little unfamiliar with some seriously good wine regions.

This month the French celebrate their national day, Bastille Day on July 14, accompanied by the traditional parade in Paris with a march, air show and fireworks from the Eiffel Tower. This festival marks the storming of the Bastille prison and represents the uprising of the modern nation. Whether this is something of importance to you or not is not my concern, but for me it’s a great reason for us all to get out of our New World comfort zone and explore some interesting, great quality – but by no means budget busting – French wines.

I have to start with a seasonally appropriate rosé. The vast majority of growth in rose sales over the last five years has been in the sweeter options available on the market – White Zinfandel, Pinot Grigio Rosé etc. However we are now seeing a slight shift towards the more elegant, drier style of rosé – of which France has plenty to offer. You’ll still find some of the sugary stuff if you look for it, but France’s love affair with rosé is generally crisp and refreshing with a delicate pink hue and a hint of red fruit – perfect for a hot summer’s day or night. With a sea view from every table, you

could do worse than sample one of these exceptional wines at Branksome Beach restaurant in Poole.

Joseph Mellot’s Sancerre Rose Le Rabault is, quite simply, divine. Don’t be fooled by the name Sancerre, made in the town of the same name, this is Pinot Noir rather than Sauvignon Blanc. My favourite pairing with this style of Rosé is lamb and Branksome Beach offers a great dish – pan roast rump of English lamb with new potatoes, spring greens and pea salad for a seasonal twist. www.branksomebeach. co.uk Down the road from the tiny appellation of Sancerre we find ourselves in the heart of the Loire Valley, true Sauvignon Blanc territory. The area of Touraine is perhaps not as well known as Sancerre and doesn’t command the same price tag.

True, it doesn’t quite reach the finesse of its neighbours, but I urge you to taste a Touraine Sauvignon and not be impressed by its quality. This region mastered the elegance of this grape long before New Zealand and Chile and should not be forgotten. I can never quite decide whether fish or goats’ cheese is a better option here and found both at Taplow House in Buckinghamshire. Domaine Trotignon Sauvignon and a choice of pan fried haddock fillet on a pea and mint purée or goats’ cheese and herb pithivier with fresh herb salad. Which would you choose? www.taplowhouse.com France also makes, in my opinion, the best summer red in the world. Beaujolais is a bit of a Marmite wine – after all the heavy New World Shiraz and Cab Sauv we’ve been pouring down our necks for the last decade or so, a delicate Beaujolais can seem like a bit of a disappointment.

Treat it as something completely different though, and it comes into its own. Many

will advocate chilling it slightly and it’s true you don’t want a baking hot bottle (nor of any other wine for that matter!) but I personally don’t think it needs to be chilled in the fridge. Think cool underground cellar as the French would traditionally have stored their wines. I’m going to recommend paella here because the classic strawberry and raspberry flavours of the wine go well with a range of Mediterranean tastes – chorizo, seafood and tomato-based sauces. Luckily we found an excellent match for the Beaujolais-Villages La Perdrisette Thorin at the Olivetree Restaurant in Southampton. Well known for fresh, natural food, you can choose from a range of classics or dishes with a modern twist to suit just about every palate. www.olivetree.co.uk For a slightly more substantial, but equally fruity red, try a much less commonly sold grape variety from the South of France around Montpellier – the Carignan grape.

This wine is rich in darker red fruit flavours and comes from 40-year-old vines which add to its concentration and complexity. I only discovered this grape a year or so ago and frankly, I can’t get enough of it. For our last venue, however, you will have to travel to the Isles of Scilly to sample. At St Mary’s Hall Hotel in Hugh Town, St Mary’s, you’ll find an elegant, refurbished townhouse just two minutes from the beach. As the Carignan is great with lightly spiced dishes and also smoky options, I’d go for either the Cornish baked potato cake with chilli and coriander and filo pastry crust, or the chicken breast served with smoked bacon and lemon thyme mixed bean cassoulet. Or you could just stay two nights and have both! www.stmaryshallhotel. co.uk

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leading

s e i d a l Inspiring stories from our favourite female chefs...

angela hartnett Angela Hartnett MBE needs little introduction. She is one of the brightest talents to have emerged on the UK food scene and one of the most high-profile women in the industry. She has emerged as one of Britain’s busiest and most successful chefs and in addition to serving exquisite cuisine in her restaurants, Angela has made her name by appearing on several television programmes and she has published a string of sumptuous cookbooks.

During her childhood, Angela’s Italian grandmother and mother instilled in her an appreciation and love of good food, and after completing a degree in Modern History at Cambridge Polytechnic she began on her road to stardom and food accolades.

In 2004 Angela gained her first Michelin star and also won a legion of new fans appearing alongside her mentor Gordon Ramsay in ITV’s Hell’s Kitchen. She competed for Wales in the Great British Menu competition for BBC Two in 2006.

Just a year later, she was awarded an MBE for services to the industry. She now owns Murano, the Mayfair restaurant she ran under Gordon Ramsay and most recently took over Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room in East London.

This month, we’re delighted to feature recipes from her latest book The Taste of Home and hope that you’ll find them as inspiring as we find Angela…

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celebrity chef and restaurateur

> flavour leading ladies

PEA SOUP You can use frozen peas for this beautiful soup, so it is really quick and simple to make.

Serves 4 1 litre vegetable stock 500g frozen peas 6 mint leaves 200ml crème fraîche Drizzle of olive oil, for serving Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Pour the vegetable stock into a pan and bring to the boil – you can use water if you don’t have any veg stock.

2 Add the frozen peas and mint leaves, bring back to the boil and cook for 2 minutes. Drain, reserving the stock.

3 Blitz the peas in a food processor or blender with half the stock. Pour the purée back into the pan and add enough of the remaining stock to make a smooth soup. Season to taste.

4 Add the crème fraîche and a drizzle of olive oil before serving.

BRAISED SWISS CHARD WITH FONTINA AND MUSHROOMS Serves 4 500g Swiss chard Juice of ½ lemon 1 tbsp olive oil 250g wild mushrooms 1 garlic clove, chopped 25g butter 25g flour 300ml milk, warmed 150g Fontina cheese, freshly grated 30g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated 30g breadcrumbs Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Remove the leaves from the chard and trim the stalks. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the lemon juice, then blanch the stalks until tender. Drain

and set aside.

2 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and sauté the mushrooms until golden. Add the garlic, then the chard stalks and finally the leaves and stir everything well.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/ Fan 160°C/ Gas mark 4.

3 Melt the butter in a small pan, add the flour and cook for 2 minutes. Slowly add the milk and whisk to make a thick sauce. Season with salt and pepper, then add the Fontina and allow to melt.

4 Mix the sauce with the chard and mushrooms and pour into a buttered ovenproof dish. Sprinkle over the grated Parmesan and breadcrumbs.

5 Bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes until heated through and golden brown on top.

VANILLA CHEESECAKE WITH BLUEBERRIES Serves 8 150g digestive biscuits 100g butter, melted, plus extra for greasing 350g cream cheese 70g icing sugar 2 tsp lemon juice Grated zest of 1 lemon ½ tsp vanilla extract 300ml double cream 200g blueberries 2 tbsp caster sugar 1 Grease a 20cm loose-bottomed cake tin. Put the digestive biscuits into a plastic bag and crush them with a rolling

pin. Mix them with the melted butter, then press the mixture into the tin in an even layer.

2 Mix the cream cheese in a bowl with the icing sugar, lemon juice and zest, and the vanilla. In a separate bowl, whisk the cream and then fold it into the cream cheese mix.

3 Spoon the filling onto the biscuit base and smooth the top with a spatula. Place in the fridge for a couple of hours to set.

4 Meanwhile, put the blueberries in a pan with the caster sugar and cook them gently. Leave to cool.

5 When the cheesecake is ready, remove it from the tin, spoon the blueberries over the top and serve.

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> flavour leading ladies

It’s been a year since flavour caught up with Amy Hunt, owner and head chef of the Oak and Glass, Weston-super-Mare, so we thought we would revisit this culinary gem and see what has made Amy and her place such a massive West Country hit.

“Every day you can improve on yesterday,” Amy says. “It’s important to evolve and so I always am looking forward to the next thing.” the Oak and Glass certainly fits that billing. Since 2008 its reputation has grown and people know that if they take in one of Amy’s meals they are in for a royal seaside treat.

“I was encouraged as a child to work hard and have gone with the principle that you get what you want if you work for it. The only thing now is to decide whether we go for accolades or not. It would nice to gain rosettes or a star, but then again I think an award would change the feel of the place and expectations would change.

“We have fantastic, loyal customers who enjoy excellent food and great service. The atmosphere is just right and adding a title to that may just alter the feel of the place, although I would love to know what they would say about me!”

With her parents now taking a backseat role in the running of the B&B, Amy has far more work on her plate but is up for the challenge. “I suppose as a woman society expects me to be settling down now and getting on with family business, but I just can’t stop – I love what I do and want to take this on to another level, no matter the hours.”

Amy is at the top of her game; she has a highly respected restaurant and business, a customer base that is both devoted and expanding and a work ethos that just doesn’t stop. Those that believe there are barriers to women succeeding in the restaurant business should take a trip to the Oak and Glass and be prepared to have those beliefs shattered.

01934 641874 www.oakandglass.co.uk

amy hunt

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owner and head chef of Oak and Glass

Society expects me to be settling down and getting on with family business, but I just can’t stop...

> flavour leading ladies

laura hart HEAD BAKER AND OWNER OF HART’S BAKERY Having landed her first job with no professional experience as a baker at the renowned Quartier Vert on Whiteladies Road 10 years ago, Laura Hart went on to establish the bakery at Bordeaux Quay before moving on to The Clifton Lido where she developed their trademark sourdough using the wood fired oven. Last year, she decided it was time to do her own thing and opened Hart’s Bakery specialising in quality, artisan produce.

A daily start time of 5am might leave some feeling jaded, but not this local baking legend: “It’s difficult to become complacent when you’re making bread.

It’s a constant challenge to achieve consistency because of all the factors that can affect it, especially the weather! For me it’s crucial to maintain high standards so I never cut corners. My regulars really help to keep me on my toes.”

Despite being up with the larks, Laura’s consistent enthusiasm certainly shines through in her work: “I’m always on the look out for current trends and using seasonal produce means my product range varies throughout the year. Seville orange marmalade is a distant memory, now I’ve moved on to summer fruits: strawberry financiers, raspberry mud cakes, apricot Danish…”

Starting out in restaurant kitchens, Laura says she was often the only woman, but her love of her vocation never allowed that to become an issue. “I’m excited to have a young apprentice starting soon – I hope I can give her the training and inspiration that I was lucky enough to find when I started. It’s great to see more young people, especially women, coming into the industry.”

Sample Laura’s baked delights for yourself by visiting the bakery on Whiteladies Road during the week, or outside Planet Pizza on Gloucester Road on Saturday mornings.

07968 220260 www.hartsbakery.co.uk 33

> flavour leading ladies

rachel demuth Owner of demuths restaurant

Rachel Demuth has been a professional vegetarian chef since the early ‘80s. She was a founder member of Neal’s Yard Bakery in Covent Garden and in 1984 opened Broad Street Bakery in Bath pioneering organic, vegetarian and vegan cooking.

In 1987 she started Demuths Restaurant, one of the most successful vegetarian restaurants in Britain, specialising in unpretentious, creative and healthy food.

In 2001 she started the Vegetarian Cookery School.

Rachel is not content to kick back and take it easy. “My aim is to learn something new every day,” she says, “yesterday it was the perfect setting point for blackcurrant jam!

I would like the restaurant and cookery school to please not only vegetarians and vegans, but all lovers of good food.”

❛

❛

I am inspired by women who work up through the ‘macho’ hierarchical traditional kitchens...

It’s not just the sun pouring through her window that gets Rachel up in the morning either: “My enthusiasm is maintained by working with such a fantastic young team at both locations. They have so much energy and motivation and are great to be alongside.”

In a male-heavy industry, gender issues have largely passed Rachel by. “I have been very fortunate to have been able to work for myself. I cooked at Demuths for many years and recruited women and now at the Vegetarian Cookery School we are an all-women team. Ironically, Demuths’ head chef Richard Buckley now has an all-male brigade!”

As for role models and inspirations, Rachel is pretty clear: “I am inspired by women who work up through the ‘macho’ hierarchical traditional kitchens - any woman who has worked for Gordon Ramsey must be tough, so Angela Hartnett definitely gets my vote!”

In 2010 Rachel received the recognition she deserves as the restaurant was named Best Vegetarian Restaurant in Britain in the Gourmet Britain Awards and given the title of Best Vegan Restaurant by the Vegan Society. She won the 2010 Bath Businesswoman of the Year award. That really is some CV! Demuths: 01225 446059 www.demuths.co.uk Cookery School: 01225 427938 www.vegetariancookeryschool.com

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> flavour leading ladies

Kiwi Fiona Were has been in the UK for 13 years having met her English partner, Iain while he was working and travelling in New Zealand. Her career to date includes being the Training and Development Chef for Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall, in its inaugural year, and Head Chef positions at a number of leading hotels in the county.

Heading up the Harbourside Restaurant at the Greenbank Hotel, Falmouth, Fiona focuses on fresh, local and seasonal produce with international twists.

She has a beautiful restaurant to work in too. Perched on the edge of one of the world’s largest natural harbours, the Harbourside is the perfect place to enjoy the bounty of the South West’s waters.

Sumptuous red mullet, famous Falmouth Bay oysters and succulent sea bass all regularly compete for attention on the menu, and Fiona has to be in the right ballpark and kicking the right ball for all this to run according to plan.

“You have to be really driven to do this job,” she says. “Cooking is the easy bit, what makes this tough is the organising, the admin and dealing with the difficult characters you come across in the hospitality business – it’s a love/hate thing!”

“I have wanted to cook since I was very young and I think to get on you really have to be focused on where you want to be.

Providing you embrace the opportunities that come along and treat people fairly there are no barriers – not even gender ones.

“People talk about it being harder as a woman to get on, but I’ve tried not to dwell on those issues and instead tried to prove my worth in the kitchen and be judged from there.”

fiona were head chef at the greenbank hotel

With its stunning views, well-documented cuisine and growing reputation, the Harbourside is a must visit and, although Fiona bemoans the fact that she has an “unbalanced existence, spending more time in the kitchen than at home,” the rest of us are quite glad and ultimately extremely grateful that she does. Cheers Fiona...

Harbourside, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 2SR 01326 312440 www.greenbank-hotel.co.uk

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The Terrace Bar & Restaurant

• Great selection of wines by the glass • Food served all day and night • Large south-facing terrace • Renowned for our stunning Argentine steaks 220 North Street, Bedminster, Bristol, Avon BS3 1JD

01179 639044

Call 01179 63904 4 to reserve a ta b quoting flavou le receive a FREE r and of house wine bottle with 3 course mea a l.

Minimum of tw o diners, offer va lid until 31/07/11

> flavour café maitreya

Get your pots and pans at the ready to cook up the next in our series of delicious recipes from top vegetarian restaurant Café Maitreya...

sweetcorn and brie cakes with raspberry and chilli dressing

These quick and easy to make savoury cakes make a great starter or lunchtime dish. They are light and gluten free.

Serves 8 Ingredients 3 medium sweetcorn cobs prepped, ready to boil whole with foliage removed 250 gms ground almond powder 1 medium onion peeled and sliced 2 cloves garlic 150gms Somerset brie Juice of ½ lemon 250 gms fresh raspberries (can use frozen) For dressing Salt and pepper 1 large red chilli de-seeded and fine chopped Juice of ½ lemon 1 dessert spoon caster sugar A splash of raspberry vinegar Method 1 Pre-heat oven to 160°C and toast the almond powder for 5-6 minutes, or until just taking colour.

2 Meanwhile blanch the sweetcorn for 5

minutes, refresh in cold water and drain.

Sauté the onion and garlic gently until translucent.

3 With a paring knife gently remove the sweet corn from the cobs and place in a food processor with the cooked onion and garlic plus the juice of half a lemon.

4 Process until a rough purée (with some sweetcorn texture left intact, then mix with the baked almond until a rough pâté like texture, and season. Refrigerate mix for ½ an hour to set a little.

5 Meanwhile place the raspberries in a small pan with the chilli, juice of ½ lemon, sugar and raspberry vinegar. Bring to the boil, simmer for 2 minutes then liquidise and cool.

6 Cut the brie into ½cm slices lengthways and then into 3cm pieces. Encase the brie pieces in the sweetcorn mix and mould into rough cakes of 3cm diameter and 1½cm in depth.

7 Sauté gently in olive oil for 2 minutes each side, or until golden and the brie begins to ooze. Serve with the raspberry dressing.

The name maitreya is derived from sanskrit and means universal love or loving kindness and Café Maitreya has been set up to reflect those values in the food. Judged among the best vegetarian restaurants in the UK

by The National Vegetarian Society, the Bristol-based restaurant serves modern, vibrant dishes using smallscale and ethical suppliers.

T: 01179 510100 W: www.cafemaitreya.co.uk

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> flavour food for life

plymouth A citywide food project in Plymouth is set to be the latest shining example on sustainable food sourcing in urban areas and The Plymouth Food Project aims to help make Plymouth Britain’s first ‘Sustainable Food City’.

food

for life

As the continuing debate in The Commons as to how ‘The Big Four’ supermarkets are treating their suppliers rages on, one city in England is fighting back. In a bid to protect local producers, promoting healthy and sustainable food, improving peoples’ lives and protecting the planet along the way, Plymouth is drawing up quite the blueprint.

As part of the initiative, The Plymouth Food Project is supporting local producers to supply fresh fruit and vegetables into Plymouth’s public services such as schools and hospitals. The project is led by the Soil Association and The Barefoot Partnership Ltd and involves a citywide partnership of organisations including Plymouth City Council, University of Plymouth and NHS Plymouth.

The Plymouth Food Charter aims to improve health and wellbeing for all and to create a more connected, resilient and sustainable city. Signatories to the Charter are committed to promoting the pleasure and importance of good food to help create a vibrant and diverse food culture,

and they’re working together to increase the demand and supply of delicious and affordable, fresh, seasonal, local and organic food throughout Plymouth.

Over 30 Plymouth-based organisations are now signed up to help deliver these aims including Riverford Organic Vegetables, Gribble’s Butchers and Tamar View Fruiterers.

“This is a truly pioneering project which could provide the blueprint for sustainable cities across the UK,” says Plymouth Food Project coordinator Traci Lewis. “It’s a winner for everyone involved. Not only do the residents of Plymouth get more fresh, tasty, good quality local food on the menu, the increase in the amount of locally produced food and drink sold into Plymouth’s public sector is great news for a thriving local economy and the local farmers, growers and food businesses who supply the produce.”

On a national scale farmers are largely being held to ransom by the supermarkets, but this brave and ambitious project by Plymouth’s pioneers should begin to redress this uncomfortable trend and develop the city into a model for the rest of the UK. ■

The Plymouth Food Charter A thriving local economy Encouraging a greater number and diversity of food enterprises and jobs, and making the most of Plymouth’s rich land and sea resources. Sourcing healthy and sustainable food from local producers and suppliers, keeping value within the local economy.

Health and wellbeing for all Raising awareness of the importance of a nutritious, balanced diet and improving the availability of affordable, healthy food. Providing a wide range of community growing and other foodrelated activities to improve physical and mental health for people of all ages.

Resilient, close-knit communities Promoting and celebrating the food and culinary traditions of all cultures through a variety of public events, such as Plymouth’s Flavourfest. Supporting local and city-wide food initiatives that bring communities together and help them to improve their neighbourhoods.

Lifelong learning and skills Giving everyone the opportunity to learn about good food – how to grow it, how to cook it, how to eat it and how to enjoy it. Inspiring and enabling organisations such as schools, hospitals, businesses and other caterers to transform their food culture.

A reduced eco-footprint Supporting food production that protects wildlife and nature; reducing food miles, packaging and waste; and increasing composting and recycling.

Maximising the use of greenspace and brownfield sites in and around Plymouth to produce food for local people.

To sign up to the Food Charter or for more information, visit www.foodplymouth.org 38

> flavour food for life

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Natural artisan ingredients Made with passion Excitingly different 58 Stanton-BathPriory:P.52

4/9/10

16:08

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www.elliandmanos.com 07748 305 122

• Rosemary Restaurant • Japanese Sunday buffet lunch • “All you can eat” dinner on Thursdays • Japanese à la carte menu • Afternoon cream tea on the patio

The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857 restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk

StantonHouseHotel www.stantonhouse.co.uk

> flavour xxxxxxx

plymouth Flavour Fest, the South West’s premier food festival, is back for 2011, taking over Plymouth City Centre from 19-21 August.

flavour fest Now in its eighth year, Flavour Fest has grown to become one of the largest and most successful food festivals in the South West. One of the highlights in Plymouth’s events calendar, the free entry event regularly attracts more than 150,000 visitors to the city.

Amanda Bishop, Events Coordinator for Plymouth City Centre Company, has been in charge of Flavour Fest since 2009.

She said: ”The energy at Flavour Fest is contagious. If you’re in Plymouth when it’s on you just can’t help but get involved.”

All the favourites are back for this year, along with some new elements to whet the appetite and spark the culinary imagination.

>The Food Market Over 120 local food producers and traders from across the South West will set up shop on Plymouth’s Piazza, selling the very best of regional produce.

You can expect everything from fantastic fruit and veg to outstanding organic meat and everything in-between including home baked cakes, artisan bread and pastries, preserves, chutneys, cheeses, beers and wines plus much more. At Flavour Fest you can always try before you buy, so come hungry and ready to sample! >The Cookery Theatre Celebrity chefs stand shoulder to shoulder with the best of regional culinary talent on the stage of Flavour Fest’s Cookery Theatre, with a full programme of demonstrations over the three-day festival co-ordinated by Lawsons.

Already confirmed are local lads turned celebrity chefs James and Chris Tanner and MasterChef of Great Britain Peter Gorton along with Richard Hunt from The Grand in Torquay, Matt Corner from The View at Whitsand Bay, Richard Valder from Angela’s Restaurant in Exeter, Nick Barclay from The Blue Plate in Looe and

The energy at Flavour Fest is contagious. If you’re in Plymouth when it’s on you just can’t help but get involved Neil Haydock from Watergate Bay’s Hotel and Extreme Academy. Plus, it wouldn’t be Flavour Fest without our annual Ready Steady Cook competition which this year sees BBC Radio Devon’s Gordon Sparks take on BBC science expert and Tomorrow’s World presenter Adam HartDavis, who with the help of a couple of our celebrity chefs will battle it out for the 2011 crown.

>The Food is Fun Pavilion

Sponsored by Castles Kitchens, the Food is Fun Pavilion is designed to get young people cooking from an early age. Face

painting and refreshments will jostle with colouring, bread making and other activities to encourage kids to take an interest in what they eat and understand what goes into their food.

Slow Food UK will be running a Taste Adventure and there will be demos, especially tailored for young people, from some of the region’s best chefs.

>The Cocktail Tent New for this year, the Cocktail Tent will play host to some of the region’s best mixers and shakers with demos from the best mixologists in the South West, a series of talks on contemporary cocktail making and interactive sessions where you can have a go at mixing your own drink.

Flavour Fest runs from Friday 19 until Sunday 21 August in Plymouth City Centre - make a date in your diary for the best of the South West’s food and drink. ■ Find full details, travel information and the programme of demos and activities online at: www.plymouthcitycentre.co.uk/flavourfest www.facebook.com/flavourfest Twitter: @flavourfestsw 41

queensberry hotel For those who enjoy the finer things in life, don’t miss your chance to WIN an unforgettable stay at one of Bath’s quirkiest hotels...

Two of Bath's fastest-rising destinations – The Olive Tree Restaurant and The Old Q Bar – can be found within The Queensberry Hotel. Close to the centre, it's a beautifully quirky townhouse hotel: proof that sophistication, modern design and customer care can go hand in hand with friendly informality and an easy, offcentre charm.

The Olive Tree Restaurant has recently been blossoming. Head chef Nicholas Brodie and his team have a unique style, derived both from Nick's varied experience and travels, and from Bath's own environs. Its surrounding countryside keeps the kitchen stocked with fantastic fruit, vegetables, cheeses and meat. Nick expertly combines these fresh, seasonal ingredients on the restaurant's frequently changing menu.

The award of three AA rosettes, an accolade afforded to only a few, is evidence of “cooking underpinned by the selection and sympathetic treatment of the highest quality ingredients. Timing, seasoning and the judgement of flavour combinations will consistently be excellent.” The restaurant is equally serious about wine, too; so serious that the 2011 Good Food Guide named its wine list the year's best.

What truly sets it apart, however, is everything's sheer affordability, a world away from the prices you might expect for nationally celebrated fare. Special prices 42

WIN! This month The Queensberry Hotel is offering one lucky flavour reader the chance to WIN an overnight midweek stay in a deluxe double room, including English breakfast, a predinner glass of Prosecco in The Old Q Bar, and dinner for two (with a bottle of wine) in The Olive Tree.

To enter, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, telephone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

Subject to availability.

in The Olive Tree are frequently offered in conjunction with offers in the adjacent Old Q Bar. Relaxed and friendly, this small-but-perfectly-formed bar has an old-fashioned devotion to excellent drinks expertly served by knowledgeable staff.

Whatever your palate craves, after a meal in The Olive Tree, The Old Q Bar makes for a natural, welcoming and distinctive way to round off a memorable night's dining in Bath. ■ T: 01225 447928 W: www.thequeensberry.co.uk

Luxury Getaways last-minute

Your passport may have been renewed and your holiday booked, but why not whisk your loved one away on the spur-of-the-moment and enjoy a rejuvenating break at one of these magical country retreats?

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> flavour luxury last-minute getaways

Burford House AA 5-Star Guest Accommodation A 17th-century landmark on the high street in Burford, Oxfordshire, Burford House has become one of the most highly regarded small hotels in the lovely Cotswolds, one of Britain's most outstandingly beautiful areas.

Partners Stewart Dunkley and Ian Hawkins head up a small team of enthusiastic and caring local staff to create a warm and welcoming atmosphere, excellent bedrooms and bathrooms and the best breakfasts, lunches, afternoon teas and dinners in the region.

Breakfast, served in the elegant dining room, aptly named ‘Centre Stage’, with its colourful collection of original theatre posters and art works, is a special occasion every day. Morning coffee with toasted crumpets and the wicked afternoon teas with homemade scones, cakes and pastries are a true delight.

Whether it’s lunch, served Monday to Saturday, or dinner served Thursday, Friday and Saturday

evenings, all the meals are prepared in-house and freshly cooked using the finest fresh organic vegetables, meats and poultry and sourced locally wherever possible.

Each of the eight bedrooms are individual and are decorated with carefully chosen, traditional Farrow & Ball paints. Some have queen- or king-size beds, some overlook the garden and some the evocative High Street.

A full range of drinks are served either in the sitting rooms or in the privacy of your bedroom. What better way to enjoy a glass of wine or Champagne than soaking in a bubble-filled tub!

Burford House 99 High Street Burford Oxfordshire OX18 4QA T: 01993 823151 W: www.burford-house. co.uk

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The Greenway

The Greenway Spa Hotel is a country house retreat with town house treats.

Set within the beautiful Cotswolds and just a five-minute drive from the centre of the fashionable spa town of Cheltenham, The Greenway is the ideal place to experience the ultimate in modern luxury and country living.

The glamorous new Elan Spa is the pinnacle of decadence. Whether it’s a day retreat or weekly treat for yourself, the Champagne nail bar, hydrotherapy pool, al-fresco hot 44

tub, luxurious treatments or the new stylish eaterie The Front Row Brasserie, guests will delight in all the spa has to offer.

The Greenway provides a superb menu and dining experience led by Head Chef Robin Dudley. Locally sourced, seasonal produce combined with skill and flair produce continually varied dining experiences that light up the senses. Recognised as a ‘foodie’ destination, the hotel boasts two dining options; two AA Rosette fine dining in the Greenway Restaurant as well as a more informal all-day dining in The Front Row Brasserie. The hotel also boasts a beautiful selection of wine to complement all palates.

All bedrooms are immaculately furnished with a unique mix of traditional country manor and stylish, London-esque boutique decor.

Original wooden furniture, new ultracomfortable beds and tastefully vibrant soft furnishings have been blended together to create the feeling of a luxurious home away from home.

The beautiful landscaped grounds,

delicious dining options and outstanding spa facilities all combine to create the complete Cotswolds resort location – putting the spa back into Cheltenham.

The Greenway Spa Hotel Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL51 4UG

T: 01242 862352 W: www.thegreenway.co.uk

> flavour luxury last-minute getaways

Tracy Park Hotel & Country Club Tracy Park is a 3-star hotel and golf resort only 10 minutes from the city of Bath and 20 minutes from the cosmopolitan city of Bristol. 24 individually-appointed bedrooms and an award-winning restaurant await you, ideally located for both the M4 and M5 motorways,

Tracy Park really is your gateway to the South West.

It has two outstanding 18-hole golf courses and specialises in West Country hotel golf breaks, golf society days and corporate golf days too.

The Oakwood restaurant has a Top Table Gold Award and two AA Rosettes. Tracy Park is perfect for leisure breaks, short breaks on the way to the West Country, golf breaks, theatre breaks and spa retreats at Thermae Bath Spa. Every one of our bedrooms has oodles of character, having been entirely renovated in a chic, enduring, contemporary style.

Luxury does not always have to come at a price.

Late breaks, offers and packages are always available on the website.

Tracy Park Hotel & Country Club Bath Rd Wick Nr Bath BS30 5RN T: 0117 937 1800 W: www.tracypark.co.uk

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Horn of Plenty The Horn of Plenty is an independently owned country house hotel near Dartmoor and is no doubt one of the best luxury hotels in Devon. It offers top class 2 AA Rosette fine dining, attentive and friendly service, beautifully appointed hotel accommodation and breathtaking Devon views that provide guests with the perfect country hideaway.

The superior and deluxe rooms in the main house offer a combination of elegance and classic sophistication, while the Garden House rooms offer sumptuous beds and beautiful decor.

The latest arrival at the hotel is an incredibly grand 8ft by 8ft bed!

With plenty of space to stretch, twist and turn, this is a bed that promises a great night’s sleep. Handcrafted by renowned Devon bed specialists Vi-Spring, the new bed, called the ‘Plentiful’ is finished with handmade natural pure wool duvets and pillows from another local business, Devon Duvets. Not just

a feat of size and sumptuousness, it’s testament to how three local businesses have worked together to achieve something extraordinary.

With its breathtaking location and views over the Tamar Valley, its welcoming, relaxing atmosphere and award-winning restaurant make The Horn of Plenty one of Devon’s best-loved hotels and it now has a bed that only adds to its reputation for luxury!

Save up to 35% on a luxury summer break Stay for two nights or more at The Horn of Plenty during July and August on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis in the best available room for just £95 per person per night.

The offer is valid Sunday to Thursday up until August 31st.

See website for terms and conditions.

The Horn of Plenty Country House Hotel & Restaurant Gulworthy Tavistock Devon PL19 8JD T: 01822 832528 W: www.thehornofplenty.co.uk 45

An Evening of Romance at an English Tudor Castle What could be more romantic than arriving at your destination to discover you are in the magnificent surroundings of an English Tudor Castle? Your three-course candle lit dinner will be served in one of our intimate dining rooms, followed by coffee and petit-fours. The following morning, awake to The Baron’s Breakfast served in your bedchamber - smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on granary toast finished with caviar.

Winner of the ‘Small Hotel of the Year Award 2011’ Awarded by Destination Bristol

This offer is available throughout the summer comprising of: ~ A deluxe bedchamber ~ A bottle of house Champagne ~ A single rose on your pillow ~ A gift bag of truffles All in your bedchamber awaiting your arrival. £475.00 per night.

Thornbury Castle, Thornbury, South Glos, BS35 1HH - Tel: 01454 281182 - info@thornburycastle.co.uk

www.thornburycastle.co.uk

“A 12th Century Inn nestled on the edge of Dartmoor...

‘For action or relaxation, spectacular scenery, great food and 800 years of hospitality, the weekend break you’ve been looking for is only 90 minutes away!’

Ox Arms 195 x 128.indd 1

Book now on: 01837 840 244 South Zeal x Nr Okehampton x Devon x EX20 2JT

www.theoxenhamarms.co.uk 25/5/11 21:29:26

> flavour luxury last-minute getaways

The Wheatsheaf The Wheatsheaf Combe Hay has the best of all worlds. Nestled in the centre of the Domesday village of Combe Hay, just four miles from the centre of Bath and 12 miles from Bristol, it is both convenient for a quick getaway and yet fully encompassed within the countryside.

The stylish, contemporary rooms, with king-size beds, luxurious linen and rainwater showerheads are separate from the main building, ensuring a relaxing and quiet night after you have sampled the scrumptious cooking of Gordon Ramsey protégé Eddy Raines and the stunning wine list.

Lazy Sunday Package Scrummy Sunday lunch, room, antipasti supper in the room with a bottle of wine and breakfast.

All for just £90 per person.

In summer, there is always the delicious breakfast (with eggs freshly laid by the Wheatsheaf’s happy hens and ducks, and honey from the busy Wheatsheaf bees) to look forward to on the beautiful terrace and in winter there is a warm welcoming log fire.

Whether you wish to explore the city or enjoy the many walks on the doorstep, you are welcome to dine and stay – dogs welcome as well. The

Paulet Arms The Paulet Arms is an independently owned country pub in the heart of Edington, Wiltshire. Not only does it offer fantastic, local British food, a warm atmosphere and a great outdoor space for children, it has recently opened its luxury bed and breakfast accommodation, an ideal place to rest weary legs after a long walk over the breathtaking plains opposite.

The accommodation consists of three bedrooms in total: a double en suite, a master en suite and a twin with an adjacent family bathroom.

Unusually for a bed and breakfast, you also have the use of a spacious living area and kitchen so you can choose to dine downstairs or take advantage of the self-catering option.

With its Egyptian cotton bedding, roll top baths and bespoke oak furniture, teamed with handmade walking sticks and a stack of local country walks adorning the coffee table, The Paulet Arms has thoroughly

Wheatsheaf is far enough to get away from it all and yet near enough to get to without a motorway!

The Wheatsheaf Combe Hay Bath BA2 7EG T: 01225 833504 W: www.wheatsheafcombehay. co.uk

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captured the idea of quintessentially British, country luxury.

The pub is the perfect venue for any occasion with its private function room leading off from the accommodation, ideal to host a dinner, lunch or party where guests have just a few steps to master until they can relax in the beautiful surroundings of their luxury accommodation.

Want the real country experience?

Just ask newly-appointed manageress Heidi Brown about what Wiltshire has to offer, whether it be mountain biking over the planes, gliding, horseriding or shooting, The Paulet Arms can arrange it for you.

The Paulet Arms Westbury Road Edington Wiltshire BA13 4PG T: 01380 830 940 W: www.pauletarms.co.uk 47

T: 01242 602366 W: wesleyhouse.co.uk

WH_Flavourmag_July.indd 1

Restaurant with Rooms Wine Bar & Grill

8/7/11 15:21:35

he trip to Lundy aboard the MS Oldenburg runs between April and November from Bideford or Ilfracombe, carrying both day and staying visitors. Enjoy breathtaking scenery of the North Devon coast.

November to April, short breaks are available by helicopter, experiencing spectacular aerial views of the island.

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tep into Ston Easton Park, with its superb grounds, antique furnishings, country charm and warm welcome, and you’ll know you’ve arrived somewhere special.

TEA FOR FOUR

During August, take advantage of Ston Easton’s superb Afternoon Tea, where you can enjoy four for the price of three!

Subject to availability.

Treasured for its medicinal properties in ancient times, beetroot has much more to offer than just its gorgeous colour.

With some great recipe ideas to choose from this month, you might think twice about simply throwing it into a salad too...

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Recipes and images courtesy of www.lovebeetroot.co.uk

purple patch

> flavour purple patch

Beetroot, bacon and cheddar brunch bread Serves 4 Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus 1½ hours proving Cooking time: 25 minutes Ingredients 250ml warm water 1 tsp dried yeast 1 tsp sugar 500g strong white bread flour ½ tsp salt 1 tsp dried sage (optional) 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 150g plain cooked (vacuum packed) beetroot, drained and puréed 5 rashers smoked streaky bacon / or 3 tbsp pumpkin seeds (for veg version) 80g mature cheddar, grated

Method 1 In a jug mix the water with the yeast and sugar. Set aside for a few minutes to allow the yeast to activate – after 5-10 minutes there should be a layer of foam on the surface.

2 In a food mixer or large bowl tip the flour, make a well in the centre and add the salt, dried sage and olive oil.

3 Pour in the water and yeast and the puréed beetroot and knead with a dough hook for 5 minutes or by hand for 10 minutes. Set aside in a non-draughty place to rise for around an hour or until it has doubled in size.

4 Whilst the bread is rising cook the bacon until crisp. Allow to cool and cut into small pieces and set aside.

5 Turn the dough onto a floured work surface and roll into a large rectangle.

Sprinkle the bacon and cheese over the surface and roll up into a log shape, tucking the ends under.

6 Transfer to a baking sheet and set aside for 20 minutes to rise for a second time.

Preheat the oven to 220˚C/Gas Mark 7).

7 Once the bread has finished its second rise, cook in a hot oven for around 25 minutes. If it is done the bread should sound slightly hollow when tapped on the base. Serve whilst still warm cut into thick slices with plenty of butter.

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> flavour purple patch

DID YOU KNOW? Hangover cure Beta cyanin, the pigment that gives beetroot its colour, could be the key to beating your hangover! Beta cyanin speeds up detoxification in your liver, which enables your body to turn the alcohol into a less harmful substance that can be excreted quicker than normal.

Nature’s Viagra One of the earliest known benefits of beetroot is its use as an aphrodisiac during the Roman times. And it wasn’t all folklore as it has been found to contain high amounts of boron, which is directly related to the production of human sex hormones.

Rags to riches Sir Alan Sugar of Apprentice fame demonstrated early entrepreneurial flair when, while at school, he got a job boiling beetroots for the local greengrocer.

Everlasting love In many cultures the belief persists that if a man and a woman eat from the same beetroot then they will fall in love.

Beetroot, wild rice and herb salad with cumin spiced grilled chicken Serves 4 Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 40-50 minutes Ingredients For the chicken: 4 chicken breasts 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp cumin seeds, roundly ground 2 garlic cloves, crushed Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad: 400g wild rice, or white and wild rice mixed 500g cooked beetroot, chopped into chunks 1 bunch spring onions, finely sliced 1 small bunch each of mint, coriander and dill (reserve some for garnishing), all roughly chopped

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For the dressing: Juice and zest of 1 orange 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper To serve: 4 tsp Greek yogurt a few dill fronds Method 1 Marinate the chicken by mixing together the olive oil, cumin, crushed garlic, and salt and pepper and rub all over the chicken breasts. Set aside whilst you make the salad. The chicken can be marinated up to 24 hours ahead of time if you want to.

2 For the salad, cook the wild rice according to the packet instructions – it should take between 30-40 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Drain

really well and tip into a large bowl.

3 Stir the spring onions, herbs and beetroot though the rice.

4 Mix together the dressing ingredients and taste to check the seasoning. It may need a little more vinegar if the orange juice is particularly sweet. Stir the dressing through the salad. Set aside whilst you cook the chicken.

5 Heat the oven to 200°C/gas 6. Heat a griddle pan until it’s really hot and sear the chicken on both sides. Transfer to a baking sheet and finish cooking the chicken in the oven – depending on the thickness of the chicken it should take 10-15 minutes. You can also cook the chicken on a barbeque.

When the chicken is cooked cut each breast into thick slices.

6 To serve, pile the rice salad onto plates or a large serving platter and arrange the chicken on top. Spoon the yogurt on top and garnish with a scattering of the reserved dill fronds. Serve immediately.

> flavour purple patch

The ultimate beetroot and chocolate cake Serves 8 Ingredients 250g plain cooked (vacuum packed) beetroot, drained and puréed 200g quality dark chocolate (70% cocoa) 200g plain flour 200g unsalted butter, melted 100g dark brown sugar 100g caster sugar 3 large eggs 2tbsp cocoa powder 2tsp baking powder 1tsp vanilla extract Icing sugar for dusting Method 1 Pre heat the oven to 180˚C/Gas Mark 4.

Grease and line a 23cm loose-bottomed cake tin.

2 Break the chocolate into pieces and put in a food processor. Blitz until crumbed but not totally powdered – some larger pieces will give the cake a great texture.

3 Add the beetroot and blend together.

Then add the remaining ingredients to the processor and whizz until well mixed. Pour into the prepared cake tin and lightly level out the surface.

4 Bake in the preheated oven for 45-50 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. The surface of the cake may have cracked a little. Allow the cake to cool for a few minutes in the tin before removing to a cooling rack.

5 Dust lightly with icing sugar and serve in wedges. For dessert, this cake is great with a little crème fraiche on the side.

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> flavour chef xxxxxxx profile

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> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Tom Bradbury Head chef at: The Cornwall’s Arboretum Restaurant Originally from: St Austell, Cornwall

I’ve seen all sorts of carnage since starting up at The Cornwall 18 months ago. We have been reviewed several times, had inspections galore and had the Michelin guys round as well. We are a little way off that mark of distinction at the moment but we are definitely going in the right direction. We are constantly improving our service, getting to grips with all the suppliers on the organic farms and generally pulling together to make it the best in the area. It was ‘interesting’ opening The Arboretum – not for the faint hearted but very rewarding in the long run.

Going up to London every so often is invaluable to staying ahead in this industry, as that is where all the trends are set. I have worked at the Lanesborough Hotel and Tom Aikens’ Chez Bruce and returning there you can see just how progressive they are. Obviously Noma’s success has had a massive effect on the standards chefs work to and it’s important to bring that cutting edge into our own kitchen. London expects a certain level and has a cutthroat environment, you can’t stand still.

The Cornwall Hotel, Spa & Estate Pentewan Road Tregorrick St Austell PL26 7AB 01726 874050 www.thecornwall.com

I’ll admit, I’m not a trendsetter but more a trend follower and I’ll transfer what I learn on my trips into the Arboretum. We are now seeing the old and cheaper cuts becoming the norm. Remember when ox cheeks were thrown away? Well you can’t pick them up for less than £5 a kilo now!

Cornwall is beginning to buck the trend and it isn’t the inaccessible backwater it may once have been perceived to be.

And that’s one of the reasons I came back here. It is my home; I love walking on the beaches with my kids and the dog or popping into many of the great little pubs around the coastline, but it is also no longer a one-season attraction. August used to be the only time when Cornwall fired up, but it’s now bonkers from spring until September and still busy enough during the other months.

The Cornwall Hotel has huge potential and big ideas. My ultimate goal is for people to be saying: “Have you been to The Arboretum yet?” I want them to think of it in the same way they do with top restaurants around the country. I know it’s a long road to get that recognition and in real terms we are still very young, but we definitely have the potential and the passion to reach that target.

My Desert Island Dish would have to be some sort of fruits de mer concoction, certainly containing winkles, with a nice bottle of white wine. And if I was to have to cook up a dish for someone I think I would probably plump for an assiette of Cornish lamb, encompassing all the cuts with a fresh salsa verde. That would be a good desert island! ■

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> flavour deer park

Stroll around the grounds through wooded walkways or cosy up in the lounge with your favourite book

deer park The Deer Park has recently reopened following a major refurbishment. Situated in 80 acres of unspoilt Devon countryside, this 18th-century country house hotel is ideally located to explore Devon’s dramatic coastline and the heather-clad rolling hills of Dartmoor National Park.

Deer Park is an unpretentious family focused hotel which has the warmth of a truly English country house. From the moment you arrive up the mile long drive, you’ll find that everything, from your bedroom and the service to the exquisite food and relaxing atmosphere, is created to make you feel right at home.

The hotel has 16 en suite bedrooms which have all been individually styled to retain the hotel’s inherent charm, capturing the essence of country living. The principle rooms in particular boast stunning countryside views out towards the River Otter.

Deer Park Country House Hotel Buckerell Village Weston Honiton Devon EX14 3PG 01404 41266 www.deerparkcountryhotel.co.uk 56

The restaurant has built an enviable reputation for both its quality and atmosphere, offering a range of dishes to delight all senses. Whether you wish to linger over a light lunch with friends, indulge in a traditional afternoon tea on the terrace or gather with family over a sumptuous dinner, the Deer Park offers the ideal venue.

Stroll around the grounds through wooded walkways, take a dip in the outdoor swimming pool or cosy up in the lounge

with your favourite book. The hotel’s private five-mile fishery on the River Otter is the perfect place for a spot of fly fishing.

The Deer Park’s landscaped gardens and sweeping lawns provide the ideal backdrop for a special Devon wedding. The hotel has a civil ceremony licence and can cater for up to 60 guests in the restaurant and up to 150 guests in a marquee for a wedding breakfast. So whether you wish for a small, intimate family wedding or a large, lavish celebration, Deer Park can cater for your every need. ■

exclusive reader offer Rooms are available from £65 per person, per night. Book a threecourse dinner on a Sunday evening at the rate of £28.95 per person and stay over for just £45 per person – you’ll even be treated to a complimentary Devonshire cream tea on arrival. Valid until the end of August. Please quote ‘Flavour Magazine’ when booking.

> flavour deer park

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The Food

The Pint

The Pillow

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> >flavour flavourdrops xxxxxxx by

drops by... flavour

farrington’s farm shop It wasn’t so much an epiphany that saw Tish and Andy Jeffery turn a small-scale farm stall into one of the most prestigious and respected farm shops in the country.

More so it was the arrival next door of a well-known supermarket and the trip to a farm shop conference that turned a struggling outfit into the multi-faceted Farrington’s.

Just over ten years ago and at the tail end of the Foot and Mouth outbreak, Farrington’s Farm Shop was established

by Tish and Andy as a platform by which farmers could get a proper price for their produce. As farmers themselves, they recognised the importance of supporting local enterprises, so, after receiving the go-ahead from the Duchy and finance from the bank, work began on Farrington’s Farm Shop.

From the beginning, the emphasis was on local food, and food miles, or the lack

of them, a concept that remains just as important today.

They now aim to offer the widest choice of the very best locally produced foods – only looking further afield if the choice or quality isn’t available closer to home.

“As farmers ourselves, we really appreciate the support of the local community,” Andy says, “We make and grow much of what we sell and, from the outset; it’s been part of our policy to buy from as many local farms and small, specialist suppliers as possible. Our customers know where their food comes from and can shop with confidence.”

A café was added in 2003, utilising the old calf pens, and the car parks had to be enlarged to accommodate the ever-growing tide of customers. In 2004, part of the farm was turned over to growing vegetables, which are sold through the farm shop.

In 2010, a new Deli counter, a new serveover counter in the Jon Thorner’s butchery and the much-needed café extension were all opened to great acclaim.

The Shop received a Taste of the West Gold Award in 2008, with the Café winning Silver, and in March this year Farrington’s was named as British Champion – Local Food in the Countryside Alliance awards, widely acknowledged as the Rural Oscars.

“This is not only an honour for the farm shop”, said Tish, “but also a real reward for the great team of people who work so hard to make Farrington’s a success”.

Farrington’s Farm Shop Main Street Farrington Gurney Bristol BS39 6UB 01761 452 266 www.farringtons.co.uk 59

> flavour siân blunos

Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

Fresh herbs don’t just smell and taste good, they have long been used in traditional medicine and beauty treatments, containing many properties that are beneficial to our health. Most herbs have healing properties and contain abundance of minerals they are easy to grow; you don't have to have a huge garden. Children can grow their own little herb garden even on a window box. Herbs make fantastic natural flavourings and can be introduced into children's diets early on – don't be afraid to experiment. Here are a few of my favourites.

>Basil

The classic accompaniment to tomato dishes. Research suggests that basil can help relieve congestion and neutralise harmful acid in the gut and help calm the nervous system.

>Bay

An essential ingredient to flavour soup, stews, stocks and sauces and is thought to aid digestion.

>Chervil

This has a unique flavour a little like parsley with a hint of aniseed and thought to help stimulate and ease digestion – fantastic with fish and sprinkled in salads.

>Chives

Very delicate in flavour great for kids, sprinkled on sliced cucumber, tomato and avocado can aid digestion and help stimulate the appetite.

know your

herbs >Dill

Used in pickles and soups. Fantastic with fish dishes and a family favourite; homemade potato salad.

Very effective for the relief of gripes in babies, given in the form of gripe water.

>Mint

There are so many varieties of mint these days which can be used in savoury dishes, dips and deserts.

Mint aids digestion.

>Oregano

Has good antioxidant abilities and goes well with tomato dishes, homemade pizza and stuffings.

>Parsley

The most widely-used herb and very nutritious; contains useful amounts of vitamin C and iron. It is a natural diuretic and good for our kidneys.

>Rosemary

Used in lamb, chicken and vegetable dishes and is one of nature’s most powerful antioxidants. It also stimulates the immune system and increases circulation. Historically, rosemary is believed to sharpen the memory and improve concentration.

>Thyme

Can be used a lot in soups, casseroles and salad dressings and can help relieve congestion.

As a treat for the mums at the end of a busy day, what better way to enjoy and benefit from the healing properties of fresh herbs than in a relaxing warm bath?

Make an infusion by placing the fresh leaves in a bowl of boiling water. Once the water has had time to infuse, strain and add directly to your bath. Try lavender to soothe aching muscles, rosemary to rejuvenate, sage to relieve stress or basil to stimulate. Enjoy!

Cooking for Coco Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.

To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com

>Coriander

Has a distinctive pungent flavour and is used a lot of curries and salads. Good in bean dishes as it aids digestion.

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> flavour quarryman’s arms

quarryman’s arms About halfway between Bath and Chippenham on the A4 lies the historic and beautiful village of Box. People have been making a living off the land here since Roman times, and possibly even earlier. Box is rightly famous for Brunel’s railway tunnel, and for the magnificent stone extracted from the quarries here.

However, just to the east of the village, up a hill on the south side of the old London Road, lies a real hidden treasure, popular with drinkers, diners and ramblers alike...

The Quarryman’s Arms is a beautiful old pub set off narrow lanes that make you wonder whether you took the right turning.

The building is made of the local stone, and has that lovely pale colouring peculiar to this part of England. There are creepers up and down the front of the building, and a sturdily built wall around the front garden. The pub sign depicts the days when stone taken from the local quarry was drawn away by horse.

Step across the threshold and you find a charming little two bar pub which looks like it hasn’t changed much since the days when the quarrymen really did take their refreshments here. On your right, through a wooden door, is a small ‘snug’ room, with simple wooden tables, low beams on the ceilings and a slightly outsized serving hatch.

The Quarryman’s Arms, Box Hill Box Corsham Wiltshire SN13 8HN

By far the larger drinking and dining area, however, is the main L-shaped bar to your left. It is a veritable feast for the eyes, with so much memorabilia about the place you could lose yourself for hours just gazing.

It’s a collector’s treasure trove. Even the noticeboard is interesting, made as it is of a pile of corks stacked so tightly that it all somehow stays together. A leaflet pinned here reminds those with a subterranean bent to visit the nearby Box Freestone Mine: a caver’s delight, with its spectacular cathedral chamber, and a significant number of resident bat species!

(01225) 743 569 www.quarrymans-arms.co.uk

At this point it’s always good to get yourself a drink before having a good old

62

Photos by Danielle Arundel www.daniellearundel.co.uk

A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com

> flavour quarryman’s arms

Raise a glass to...

Wadworth 6X (4.3%) Copper in colour. If you like to waft your pint under your nose, you’ll notice the fruity aroma, which is also present in the taste, but there is also a pleasing bitterness to the brew. The hops come through in the end too.

I always think this beer tastes stronger than it really is.

Butcombe Bitter (4%) Brewed in Somerset since 1978, this is a bitter whose taste lives up to the name: a truly bitter bitter. There’s a faint hint of lemon in there too, plus a good old whack of malt. floats your boat. A blackboard behind you also lists a good selection of wines, and there is a particularly impressive selection of malt whiskeys and whiskies available.

Drink safely in hand, it’s time to explore.

Above you on the beams is row upon row of beermats and coasters recalling ales, lagers and spirits from years gone by. It’s a keen tegestologist’s dream (yes, there is an official word for people who collect beer mats), but also a sad reminder of many breweries that are sadly no longer in existence. In addition, there is a large collection of key fobs hanging from the ceiling and, on my visit, a modern pair of football boots.

The walls hold a plethora of arcana from Box’s quarrying and mining history, with antique pickaxes, saws and miners’ lamps wherever you look. There is a central fireplace and, beyond that, a picture window offering a gorgeous view over the Wiltshire countryside. With dining tables set out to take advantage of the vista, this is as picturesque a lunch spot as you’re likely to find. In the summer, a rear garden beneath this window is a real suntrap, and utterly beautiful.

nose about the place. There are up to four real ales on handpumps at any given time, with Butcombe Bitter, Mole’s Best Bitter and Wadworth 6X pretty much regulars, plus a guest ale, Mole’s Elmo’s Fire being the interloper on my visit. There is also a barrel of Thatcher’s Cheddar Valley Cider at one end of the bar if traditional cider

The lunchtime (and indeed evening) specials are displayed on blackboard segments at the far end of the bar, and may include Lamb Shank, ‘Spag Bol’ or a Wild Salmon Fillet. But for me the real joy is to grab a pint, perch yourself on one of the distressed wood stools by the bar, hang your coat on a hook by your side and set the world to rights. A real slice of how life should be. ■

Mole’s Best Bitter (4%) Brewed in Melksham since the 1980s using the classic Fuggles and Goldings hops. This is a pretty classic best bitter. The key with a best bitter is the balance. More specialised beers can favour the bitterness, the malt, the hops etc; but a true best bitter will keep each in harmony with the others. This works pretty well with this coppery beer, and there is a hint of wedding bouquet to the aroma too.

Mole’s Elmo’s Fire (4.4%) The newest ‘regular’ beer from Melksham. This is a pale ale, although the use of Williamette hops (actually an American ‘invention’) does give it more substance and a discernible spicy nose. It’s very refreshing, as a pale ale ought to be, and that lingering bitter taste in the mouth just yells ‘same again please’ as you reach the bottom of the glass.

And for the Cider Drinker...

Thatcher’s Cheddar Valley Cider (6%) Made at Thatcher’s’ Orchards down in Sandford, Somerset. This cider has either a delightfully vibrant, or frightfully scary, orange hue to it. This cider is matured in oak vats, which give it a distinctive, dry but eminently drinkable quality. It’s a traditional cider, meaning it is allowed to ferment naturally and not carbonated.

Remember, it’s naturally hazy, not cloudy.

63

eating on the hoof A catering van finds its way into one of the West Country’s most thriving agricultural hubs as Nick Gregory finds out this month...

Such is the nature of their work, it is rare to see farmers out and about, doing their shopping and interacting with the public, but once in a while, and by that I mean on Wednesday and Friday mornings, you can find a herd of them at Frome Livestock Auctions at Standerwick, near Frome.

Along with the buying and selling of lambs and cattle, there are also a number of stalls for the farmers to grab a bargain, a fresh bargain at that. From vegetables to eggs and from bacon to cheese, this little haven could satisfy a flock of families over their AGAs for weeks on end. This is not farmers selling to the public although we are made welcome and we can tuck 64

in, this is farmers selling to farmers so the hubbub of activity is fast-paced and frenetic. It’s great.

Over the road, at Mole Valley Farmers, there is more buying and selling going on, but this time it’s feed, timber, clothing and gate posts. And next to Mole Valley is Sharon. Five-and-a-half years ago Sharon Bullus was driving home from her ‘deadend’ job in a call centre in Trowbridge, and a light came on. A catering van for sale at the side of the road sparked an immediate change in career and one that Sharon has blossomed into and flourished at.

Stationed Tuesday through Saturday,

Tree Tops Catering gives punters hearty, locally-sourced food, hot drinks and plenty of chat in a small plot Sharon secured with Mole Valley at the birth of her business.

She will be the first to admit she had no idea what she was doing when she first started and it has taken her a good couple of years to establish herself as a firm favourite, but now as well as the locals who will pop in a couple of times a week for a breakfast roll and a natter, she has also attracted a good deal more followers through word of mouth.

A breakfast and burger bar Tree Tops may well be and obviously there are not going to be too many Rosettes or Michelin stars floating about on the blackboard, but Sharon makes sure she uses only the best and freshest produce around and that certainly makes her stand out from the crowd. “You don’t necessarily have to buy cheap to make money,” Sharon says, “People will come back if your food is good and served with a smile.”

From vegetables to eggs and from bacon to cheese, this little haven could satisfy a flock of families over their AGAs for weeks on end

Wednesdays and Fridays are big days for Sharon with the farmers’ market and livestock auction over the way, and this is from where she has met many of her biggest fans. “I only really come in on a Tuesday and a Friday to keep the regulars happy! I have met an awful lot of people and this has become a right little community. Business is done and

deals are struck outside my van. Builders meet solicitors, window cleaners chat to farmers, it all goes on.”

Sharon covers other events on Sundays, but Mole Valley is where her heart is and where she has built up a tremendous following. They are long days though; She will be on the road at 7am and will be cleaning up long after she pulls down the shutters at 2.30pm. “If anyone was thinking about taking the leap and doing this for a living they should be prepared to work very hard. But the rewards are huge, you make a lot of friends and you are never lonely.” One thing is for sure, Sharon is certainly singing from the Tree Tops and she makes a lot of people very happy.

It’s a fun place to come Standerwick.

Whether it be for the auctions, the market, Mole Valley Farmers or even Sharon. It’s a world in a bubble and well worth a look. ■ Tree Tops Catering 07941 383883 65

> flavour spare me the passion

spare me the passion This month Nick Harman asks why it’s not enough to simply like doing something, to be keen on doing it or even to be in love with doing it...

Any CV that doesn’t contain the words ‘I am passionate about…’ is destined for the HR bin, whilst job adverts are apparently obliged to contain the criteria ‘must be passionate about…’ even when the job offered is stacking shelves or double entry bookkeeping. The impression given is that there are masses of people running around wild-eyed, rending their garments and crying aloud to the heavens at all times of day and night. Your own life seems rather dull compared to theirs, filled as they are with all this incredible passion.

Unfortunately experience tells us that people in the throes of passion are not always going to be good at what they are doing. Passion leads people into hasty and bad decisions, like marriage or other people’s bedrooms, makes them ignore common sense and in extreme cases commit violence. In fact in the United States civil courts, a crime of passion is referred to as "temporary insanity" and crime passionel was until quite recently a valid defence in France when accused of murder.

Chefs are not immune to this fashionable rubbish. I have lost count of the number of chefs who have told me, when interviewed, that they are ‘passionate about sourcing locally’, or ‘passionate about organic produce.’ These are all laudable sentiments, of course, but am I really expected to believe that chef goes postal when his tomatoes come from another county or his beef doesn’t have an organic sticker on it?

66

And of course in the online world it’s obligatory to say you are passionate about food if you want to be admitted to the gang.

It goes hand in hand with taking pictures of every dish you’re served using a Canon Blogmatic Mk II and then Tweeting, instead of eating the food and talking normally to the people at the table with you.

Am I really expected to believe that chef goes postal when his tomatoes come from another county or his beef doesn’t have an organic sticker on it?

Well sorry. I like my food as much as anyone else but I reserve my passion for relationships, which is surely where it belongs. The only passion I want near my table is the fruit.

I am quite passionate about this, as you perhaps can tell. ■

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia. co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.

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Positively Plymouth