flavour for people who love local food
South West | Issue 40 | June 2011
Keep your cool Why wait for the ice-cream van to call?
Cider Season All hail the West Country’s favourite tipple!
WIN! Dinner, bed & breakfast at Marco Pierre-White’s new country pub!
www.flavourmagazine.com
While the Sun Shines How to make the most of outdoor dining
New Brasserie Menu – – – To Start – – –
– – – To Follow – – –
Soup of The Day Served with Homemade Bread £5.50
Pea & Courgette Risotto, Wilted Greens, Parmesan £10.50
Ceasar Salad with Parmesan & Garlic Croutons £6.00
Chicken Caesar Salad, Smoked Bacon, Garlic Croutons, Chive £10.50
Spinach, Leek & Bath Soft Parcel, Apple & Cobnut Dressing £6.00
Saffron Tagliatelle, Wild Mushrooms, Truffle Cream Sauce £11.50
Potted Terrine, Pear & Apricot Chutney, Toasted Brioche, Cress Salad £6.50
Crumbed Cornish Fishcake, Wilted Chard, Poached Hens Egg, Salsa Verdi £12.00
Homemade Salmon Gravadlax, Beetroot, Horseradish, Vino Cotto £7.00
Mature Cheddar & Smoked Bacon Burger with Chunky Chips £13.50
Stuffed Globe Artichokes, Sundried Tomatoes, Brioche & Herb Crust £7.00
Bath Ale Battered Pollock & Chips, Peas & Tartar Sauce £13.50
Salt & Pepper Squid, Confit Tomato & Chilli, Herb Oil £7.50
Pan Fried Calves Liver, Bacon, Roast Onions, Mustard Mash, Sherry Jus £15.50
Crispy Lambs Tongue & Glazed Sweetbreads, Salad of Peas, Feves & Girolles £8.00
Slow Braised Pork Belly, Apple & Black pudding Dauphinoise, Crackling £16.50
Mussel, Clam & Scallop Chowder, Homemade Bread Starter: £8.50, Main: £14.50
Short Poached, Roasted Caldecotts Chicken Breast, Bath Pig Chorizo & Butterbean Cassoulette £17.50
– – – Side Orders: £2.75 – – –
8oz Wiltshire Lamb Rump, Ratatouille, Pressed Potato Terrine, Lamb Nage £18.50
Bread Basket, Chunky Chips, Fine beans & Shallots, Wilted Greens, Green Salad, Mixed Salad, Rocket & Parmesan, Mash Potato
Cornish Fish of The Day, Buttery New Potatoes, Brown Shrimp Butter Sauce £18.50 10oz Rib Eye Steak, Grill Garnish, Smoked Hollandaise £22.50
– – – To Finish – – – Steeped Apricot & Almond Eton Mess, Confit Lime £5.50 Coconut & Vanilla Parfait, Alphonso Mango, Passion Fruit Sorbet £6.00
AND BAR
Sticky Toffee Pudding, Salted Caramel, Clotted Cream Ice Cream £6.00 Milk Chocolate Mousse, Confit Orange, Cherry Sorbet £6.50 Valrhona Triple Chocolate Brownie, Candied Walnut, Vanilla Ice Cream £7.50
The Cavendish @ Dukes Hotel Great Pulteney Street, Bath, BA2 4DN Tel: 01225 787960 • www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk VB
AA
Johansens Recommended
Poached Plums, Yogurt Panacotta, Honeycomb, Plum Sorbet £7.50 Selection of Local & Continental Cheeses, Homemade Fig & Walnut Bread £8.50
Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com Deputy Editor: Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com
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Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com
welcome
Alastair McClare, Account Manager Email: ali@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Jeni Meade, Eamonn McCabe, James Walker Contributors: Faye Allen, Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Jennie Clark,Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Peter Swanepoel, Mitch Tonks
Welcome to the June issue of flavour!
Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com
Having recently dipped my toe into the world of gardening, I’m sure I’m not alone in saying that there’s nothing quite like picking the contents of your supper fresh from your own plot. What I now fully appreciate is that nature’s offerings are at their most bountiful at this time of year, making seasonal menu options easier than ever.
For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com
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Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize. Please recycle this product.
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contents 8 In Season Tom Bowles and Peter Swanpoel cook up the best of the season’s produce 11 Keep your cool Why wait for the ice-cream van to call? 21 While the Sun Shines How to make the most of outdoor dining
On this matter, Annabel Langbein, whose TV series will be starting on The Good Food Channel this month, is very much a girl after my own heart. Hailing from New Zealand, her style of cooking is perfect for the sunshine – turn to PAGE 62 to be inspired. We couldn’t let June come and go without mentioning strawberries either. Held up as the sweet symbol of British summertime, there are more ways to eat them than just fresh out of the punnet while watching tennis. On PAGE 50, discover some delectable dessert ideas that are as exciting as watching the men’s final! With festival season in full swing, our thoughts also turn to the West Country’s best-loved tipple, so on PAGE 38 you can find some of our favourite cider producers in the region – cheers! We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed making it.
27 WIN! Dinner, bed and breakfast at Marco Pierre-White’s new country pub! 38 Cider Season All hail the West Country’s favourite tipple!
Happy Eating! Holly Aurelius-Haddock.
> flavour news
If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
this month cook wells COOK believes eating and cooking are two of life’s great pleasures and they have just opened their 42nd shop in Wells. They cook so you don’t have to and they will deliver their frozen ready meals straight to your door, enabling you to keep your powder dry for the occasions when you’re in the mood to cook up a storm. Because they cook in the same way you do at home, the dishes look and taste homemade, and are always a pleasure to eat! 01749 677726 www.cookfood.net
POMEGRANATE PICK-UP Frazzled British workers are being thrown a lifeline with the news that a glass of pomegranate juice per day will deliver a measurable reduction in their stress hormone levels. A recent study stated that 41 per cent of workers claim to be stressed or very stressed in their jobs. Edinburgh University researchers found that daily consumption of 500ml of Pomegranate Pure pomegranate juice over a two-week period saw most of their 60 volunteers inspired, proud and active and all reported that they were less distressed, nervous, guilty and ashamed.
Ramsey Protégé at The Wheatsheaf The Wheatsheaf Combe Hay is proud to announce their newly-appointed Head Chef Eddy Raines. Starting his career at Exeter College, Eddy impressed from the outset and went on to win The Gordon Ramsey Scholarship Award. After working at a string of prestigious restaurants, including The Castle House Hotel in Hereford (four AA Rosettes) and The Bath Priory (Michelin star), he joins The Wheatsheaf where he’ll be making full use of the kitchen garden and keeping happy hens, ducks and bees – quite the country larder! www.wheatsheafcombehay.co.uk
DIAMOND DELIGHT FOR BUTCHERS Martins Meats, from Toddington, have scooped the highly coveted Special Diamond Award for Taste at the Heart of England fine foods Diamond Awards. Having already won the meat category, the judges then recognised the quality of their 28-day Longhorn fillet steak to land them the top prize for Taste. Caps doffed to the Cotswold butchers. www.martinsmeats.com
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> flavour news
OUT OF ACORNs Sam Moody, head chef at The Bath Priory, has been recognised with the highly coveted Acorn Award, one of just 30 handed to the brightest prospects in the hospitality industry under the age of 30. Previous recipients include Marco Pierre White, Marcus Wareing and Michael Caines. Sam has been head chef since September 2009. Since then, his young team have developed a strong local and national following. Keen to step out from behind the stove, you can often see Sam at food festivals where his demonstrations keep the crowds entertained with his skilful cooking and witty repartee. Sam is a natural chef, a great lover of food and fully deserved this prestigious award. www.thebathpriory.co.uk
PEAR TREE The Pear Tree in Atworth, for years a Mecca for good food, good drink and beautiful grounds, has been taken over by Michelin starred chef Marco Pierre White. Marco will be overseeing the transformation of the gardens, the interior and the menu. Traditional British fare is on offer with staples such as shepherd’s pie and roast pork belly at the heart of the menu. He also has planted several more pear trees to create an orchard in the grounds and he will have his own beer, Governor, on tap behind the bar. www.maypolehotels.com/peartreeinn
SCHOOL’S IN Situated in 80 acres of beautiful private parkland, Stonar School has opened its doors to host weddings, anniversaries, corporate functions, engagements and birthdays. With its idyllic location and breathtaking panoramic views, Stonar looks to be the ideal venue to host a worthy bash. Exclusive use of the venue including the marquee and manor house is provided along with excellent service, fine food and a very warm welcome. www.stonarschool.com
ASHTON COURT FARMERS’ MARKET Locals, families, dog walkers, foodies and cyclists joined together last month to be part of the launch of the monthly Ashton Court Farmers’ Market. The launch was fittingly opened by Michelin starred chefs and brothers Jonray and Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, winners of Gordon Ramsey’s Best Restaurant and owners of the acclaimed Casamia Restaurant. The market next takes place on Sunday 19 June from 10.30am – 2.30pm and will take place on every third Sunday of the month after that.
FITTING TRIBUTE As tribute acts go, one not to miss this month would be Lady Sings the Blues, an ode to Billie Holiday, at The Biddestone Arms, near Chippenham on Friday June 17th. Tickets cost £20, which includes a two-course meal from the new menu. www.biddestonearms.co.uk
WINE of the mONTH
Here at flavour we’ve fallen head over heels for Cote Brasserie’s exclusive Chemin de Marquieres Merlot, which will appear on their wine list at the new restaurant opening in Bath this month. Produced on the chalky slopes in Languedoc Roussillon in SouthWestern France, these grapes are tasted at every stage of maturation to choose the perfect date for harvest. On the palate the wine is wellbalanced with ripe, spicy fruit and some of that savoury south-western character. It has a long and elegant finish. The wine is perfectly paired with the pan roasted duck breast with gratin potato and griotine cherry sauce or any of their ‘aged on the bone’ steaks from Church Farm in the Peak District.
www.bristol.gov.uk/events
winners... Congratulations to: Karen Evans from Bath who wins an overnight stay for two at Dart Marina Hotel & Spa! Sharon Clutterbuck from Gloucester who wins a selection of gardening goodies from Sarah Raven!
Cote Brasserie 27 Milsom Place Bath BA1 1BZ 01225 330509 www.cote-restaurants.co.uk
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> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
fab foodie reads Bocca Cookbook Jacob Kenedy Bloomsbury, £30
Pick of the Month!
The genius behind Bocca di Lupo Jacob Kenedy, has now released Booca, a tribute cookbook to his critically-acclaimed eatery. Twice awarded as London’s best restaurant, Jacob believes that to love eating is to love life, and that to love cooking is to love giving pleasure to other people, and now with Bocca, readers can bring home a taste of the culinary genius to their own dining room table. Jacob strives to bring Italian cooking back to its regional roots and reinvents it as only he knows how. Enjoy over 200 recipes that capture the rich diversity of regional specialties, as well as the witty anecdotes and fascinating stories. Enjoy authentic Italian cooking at its most generous, exuberant and joyful.
Peggy’s Favourite Cakes and Cookies Peggy Porschen
Bill’s The Cookbook: Cook, Eat, Smile Bill Collison
Ranging from the simple to the extraordinary, the traditional to the cutting edge, this book offers a dazzling selection of cookies and cakes to impress. From birthdays, anniversaries and weddings to just making teatime a special treat, these little delights will satisfy your every need and provide endless amounts of inspiration. Peggy Porschen has created the sweetest of treats for celebrities such as Elton John, Stella McCartney and Madonna so rest assured your homemade creations will be star-studded bites of perfection.
Bill Collison first started his food revolution with a produce store in Sussex. What began as a small greengrocer’s shop is now a bustling, vibrant café packed with hungry customers, with stores in Lewes, Brighton, Reading and Covent Garden. His reputation for always providing a unique and fun atmosphere coupled with delicious food, has caused loyal customers to demand a cookbook showcasing the best of his menu. From scrumptious breakfasts to treats at twilight, Bill’s food is bursting with flavour, texture and colour.
Quadrille, £14.99
Saltyard Books, £25
The Free Range Cook Annabel Langbein Mitchell Beazley, £20
turn to page 62 Known as the down-to-earth to find out Kiwi with a repertoire of more fun, stress-free and easy recipes, Annabel Langbein is now bringing her simple methods and breezy approach to British shores. Her approach has made her a phenomenon in New Zealand, where she has become the most successful and highest-selling food author. Now, with this book, which is accompanying a TV series, you will be able to taste for yourself what all the fuss is about. Annabel’s book shows how we can all bring the fresh air of New Zealand into our homes with her relaxed, natural and effortless approach to cooking and life. 7
> flavour in season
>Broad beans Broad beans, or fava beans, are another example of fine British produce with only a short seasonal window. From the end of May through to the middle of July broad beans are available fresh and in their pods. They are deliciously sweet with a smooth, creamy texture. Tinned or dried beans don’t quite live up to this and can often turn out floury and bland, so be sure to make the most out of these guys while you can. When young they can be eaten whole in their pods – try sprinkling with dried chilli and salt and serve as a side dish. As the beans get older later in the season they need to be shelled from their tougher cases before being cooked.
Broad bean dip In a food processor add 500g broad beans (cooked and shelled), 75g olive oil, half a chilli seed removed, half a clove of garlic, juice and zest of 1 lemon, 2 basil leaves and 50g crème fraiche. Pulse on a high speed till smooth, season to taste with salt and white pepper, serve with cheese sticks for party food or crudites as a healthy dip option.
At their best >Strawberries Quick strawberry Parfait Serves 4-6 Disolve 50ml sugar with 50ml water and bring to the boil, whisk together 4 egg yolks till light and fluffy,continue whisking while adding the hot stock syrup to the egg mix, continue whisking till slightly cool. Lightly crush 500g of washed strawberries and fold into the cooked egg mixture, set aside. Lightly whip 250g of whipping cream a 50ml natural yogurt and fold through the strawberry mixture, transfer to a dish and place in the freezer for 3-4 hours. Serve with lightly crushed strawberries and a handful of toasted almonds.
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Strawberries are synonymous with the British summer. We know that a glass of Pimm’s is around the corner when these berries arrive. The strawberry season used to be a lot shorter but as polytunnels have helped a more modern production, British strawberries can now be enjoyed from mid-April though to the end of the year. There is, of course, no substitute for our own British strawberries - our climate is perfect for producing soft fruits and often imported strawberries – have been picked before their prime to survive the commute to our shops. Always look for unblemished fruits with bright green hulls. It’s best to enjoy them as soon as possible as they can turn quite quickly. Don’t freeze whole berries as this ruins their texture and flavour too.
> flavour in season
>Courgettes
Chargrilled courgette and parmesan salad Serves 4 Heat a grill pan on the stove till smoking hot, cut 4 courgettes in half lengthways and cut into 6cm batons, drizzle with olive oil, chopped garlic and thyme, season to taste. Place the courgettes on the grill pan until they soften and grill lines are prominent, remove from the heat and add a squeeze of lemon juice, serve warm with lashings of Parmesan shavings and freshly picked parsley.
Courgettes have had some terrible treatment in the past. For such a delicate summer vegetable it’s had to put up with some pretty tough treatment in watery ratatouilles or roasted to an inch of its life to produce a rubbery, watery mess. The courgette is a summer variety squash and needs only a little TLC to get the most out of it. They come in all shapes, sizes and colours although most of us are used to the dark green varieties. Look for firm unblemished skins that are weighty. They can store well in the fridge for a couple of weeks but their flavour does deteriorate the longer you leave them.
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Peter Swanepoel from Cavendish Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
right now >Gooseberries We have become masters of producing gooseberries, but their popularity is not what it used to be as they need a little encouragement, particularly earlier in the season. Early season berries are smaller and firmer and need to be cooked or poached. These are great for jams, fools or as an accompaniment to roast pork or mackerel. As the season draws on they become a lot sweeter and can then be eaten raw. As they come into season gooseberries will be green but they mellow to a golden colour as they become more suitable for eating raw. Early berries will keep well for a week or more in the fridge, but the riper ones will perish quicker so eat these within a day or two.
Gooseberry chutney In a medium pot place 1kg gooseberries, 100ml white wine, 50ml white wine vinegar, 50ml water, 1 medium onion, finely chopped, juice and zest of 1 lemon, 100g demerara sugar and 2 bay leaves, place on stove top on a medium heat and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated, remove from the pan and allow to cool before transferring to an air tight container. Keep refrigerated till needed. Serve with cheese or cold meat selection.
Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. www.hartley-farm.co.uk
With two AA rosettes, The Cavendish Restaurant and Bar is a hidden gem in the heart of Bath serving the best of modern British cuisine. www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk 9
> flavour xxxxxxx
Mendip Moments AWARD-WINNING premium artisan dairy ICE CREAM which is rich, dense and creamy, using only natural ingredients.
Voted “Best Luxury Buy” in the Top 10 Best Ice Creams feature by the Independent’s i newspaper, May 2011.
Mendip Moments™, Tel: 01749 679400 info@mendipmoments.co.uk www.mendipmoments.co.uk
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> flavour xxxxxxx
keep
Cool
your
If the suspense of waiting for the sound of the ice cream van is too much to bear, take matters into your own hands with these sensational scoops...
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> flavour keep your cool
Mendip Moments Mendip Moments award-winning ice cream is created in true artisan style with small batches made on the family farm in Somerset. Rich, dense and creamy, it is made using milk and cream from pedigree Holstein cows and only natural ingredients. There are 15 luxurious flavours in the range, created using quality local ingredients wherever possible. You can also enjoy a selection of refreshing and dairy-free sorbets, bursting with fruit and made using spring water from the farm.
Director, Jayne Lunnon, believes that ice cream has more to offer than just two scoops in a bowl for dessert, she wants to challenge the perception of ice cream at the dinner table: “I want to show people how deliciously complementary ice cream can be to a savoury dish. It is a sumptuous twist on a creamy sauce for example.” Jayne approached Amy Hunt, head chef and owner of Oak and Glass restaurant in Weston-super-Mare, who was already using Mendip Moments ice cream ingeniously in her menu. Jayne asked her to create some recipes that integrated ice cream into starters and main courses. Jayne explains: “We were so inspired by her marrying of flavours and textures that we approached her to devise some recipes that we could offer our customers; imaginative and tasty but easy to recreate in a domestic kitchen.” The secret in the success of these recipes lies in the clean, fresh taste and creamy consistency of Mendip Moments. These tasty pots are available from independent retailers, delicatessens and farm shops. Prices start from £4.49 for 500ml. www.mendipmoments.co.uk 12
Cornish crab cakes with sweet chilli dipping sauce and Mendip Moments Stem Ginger ice cream Ingredients (serves 8) 250g fresh white crab meat 150g fresh brown crab meat 300g cool mashed potato (no butter or milk) 1 shallot, finely diced 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 small lump of fresh ginger, grated 1 lime Chopped coriander and chives Method 1 Place all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix until evenly bound together. Put the mixing bowl in the
fridge for one hour. Once chilled, use a large spoon to carefully make 16 small cakes. Dust the cakes with flour to help stop them sticking to the frying pan. 2 Place them onto a tray lined with greaseproof paper. Heat a large frying pan and some olive oil. Fry the crab cakes until golden brown on each side and place them back on the tray. Before serving, preheat the oven to 180°C and cook for 8 minutes. Serve with sweet chilli dipping sauce and a scoop of Mendip Moments Stem Ginger ice cream.
> flavour keep your cool
Simply Ice Cream Simply Ice Cream is a Kent-based luxury ice cream producer, based in Bonnington near Ashford. The range – dreamt up by founder Sally Newall – is made by a small team producing ice cream the old fashioned way; by hand, in small batches using locally sourced ingredients, natural flavours and seasonal fruits. The 22 flavours from Simply Ice Cream are free from syrups, mixers, additives or preservatives, offering just pure natural goodness and flavour. Suitable for all the family, the ice creams are vegetarianfriendly and the large majority are glutenfree for everyone to enjoy. www.simplyicecream.co.uk
We love… Heavenly Honeycomb Crunch Real honeycomb pieces made in Simply Ice Cream’s kitchens provide sweet caramel toffee flavours and a crunchy texture for this Great Taste Gold award-winning ice cream. Stem Ginger and Marmalade Homemade stem ginger and marmalade is whipped into creamy indulgent ice cream, giving this variety rich orangey flavours with a mild and sweet ginger spice. All flavours are available in 120ml and 500ml tubs. Simply Ice Cream is available to retailers via Stratford Fine Foods or Simply Distribution UK.
Marshfield Farm To celebrate the onset of the sunny season, Marshfield Farm Ice cream has just re-launched their website with plenty of interactive features for their loyal customers; tonnes of information about the flavours they make, recipes to use their ice cream in and a chance for you to get your ice cream photos on their website! Check out their new flavour for 2011 which is being scooped all over the South West – a truly retro Tutti Frutti – apparently it’s going down well with people who can still remember the Bay City Rollers and the Bee Gees! Marshfield Farm Marshfield Nr Bath Wiltshire SN14 8LE 01225 891221 www.marshfield-ice-cream. co.uk 13
Real JerseyLuxuryICE CREAM Jersey Dairy Luxury Ice Cream comes from Pedigree Jersey Cows on the Island of Jersey, free from artificial flavours and preservatives.
125ml
CMYK VERSIONS
500ml
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> flavour keep your cool
Purbeck Ice Cream
Known for being the type of affair where both tradition and innovation make up the menu, this year’s Taste of London Festival will see South West producer Purbeck Ice Cream to mix things up with aplomb…
Made on the Dorset farm overlooking Corfe Castle and the rolling hills beyond, Purbeck ice cream is the result of a dedicated, small and friendly team’s labour. Using local fresh milk and thick double cream and only the very best natural ingredients with no artificial additives, gluten, GMO’s, eggs, added colours or nuts, theirs is certainly a scoop worth shouting about. The Purbeck Ice Cream team has been busy mixing some innovative new flavours to join their existing range of entirely natural ice creams and thanks to a brand new events vehicle (aka The Tardis), visitors to this year’s Taste of London can sample their cool concoctions to find their favourite. If that weren’t exciting enough, The Tardis also boasts a peephole where you can put you head through to resemble a cartoon cow! New taste sensations this year include tiramasu ~ a delicious combination of fresh milk and thick double cream blended together with intense Italian sponge soaked in Marsala wine creating a rich and satisfying experience that is smooth, silky and extremely tasty.
Another inspirational new flavour this year is the delectable banoffee ripple made with rich and creamy banana ice cream laced with lashings of dulce de leche ripple sauce. The two flavours naturally compliment one another providing the perfect balance in taste and quality. In the spice rack Purbeck are launching two exotic new flavours to the range of cardamom and beetroot and horseradish. Cardamom has a strong, unique taste, with an intensely aromatic, resinous fragrance perfect for serving alone or as an accompaning dish ~ particularly good served alongside favourite curry. Beetroot and horseradish was born from an idea from Julie Cohen – the acclaimed author of ‘Getting Away With It’, a novel about identical twins who make ice cream. One twin jests about making beetroot and horseradish but later decides to try it and finds it perfectly palatable – we have too and find it delectable served with a sumptuous chocolate desert or with roast beef! www.purbeckicecream.co.uk 15
aquarias spa at Whatley Manor
Hydrotherapy Pool • Scented Steam Cabins • Salt Scrub Showers • Wave Dream Sensory Room • Aquarias Gym and Work-out Studio • Power Plate® • Iyashi Dôme
Summer Day Spa Experience £105 (usually £148) includes one sixty minute spa treatment and full use of the spa facilities. Luxury robe, towels and slippers are provided for your comfort. A light lunch and refreshment served in the spa lounge is also included. Day spa experiences are available Monday to Thursday from 9.00am to 5.00pm. Half day spa experiences from £48 and Evening spa experiences from £38.
Call Aquarias on 01666 827 070 or email aquarias@whatleymanor.com quoting ‘Flavour Magazine – July’ when you make a booking
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Whatley Manor Hotel and Spa Easton Grey Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0RB www.whatleymanor.com
Winner of the ‘Small Hotel of the Year Award 2011’ Awarded by Destination Bristol
> flavour martin blunos
CHICKEN THIGHS – COCONUT CRISPED
swan song As running around the countryside to catch our tea is longer necessary, Martin Blunos cooks us up a perfect alternative... I was asked recently and not for the first time, “What’s the most unusual thing you’ve ever cooked and eaten?” My reply of swan and peacock may not have been the expected reply. After all we don’t kill and eat those birds nowadays, and I for one know why – they taste awful! It’s form over function with swans and peacocks, as they look so much better than they taste. I think the reason why, back in the Middle Ages, these birds were eaten is down to their distinct lack of camouflage – white and multicoloured
does not lend itself to blending in with the countryside. But in the days of hunting and gathering, with a trusty bow and arrow as your weapon of choice in search of quarry to feed the family, a swan set against a background of shrubbery would have stood out like a full moon in the night sky. Your arrows would have flown and two hours later it would have been Big Bird for tea. Times have moved on. Our choice of food is unhindered and our method of getting the food just requires a quick trip down to the shops. So, as we don’t eat swans and peacocks anymore, and believe me you’re not missing anything, here is a colourful chicken recipe I’ve created for you to try. ■
Great with a simple salad, boiled rice or just with a dollop of sweet mango chutney Ingredients 8 skinless, boneless chicken thighs 2 limes with zest and juice plus extra wedges to serve 2 tsp medium curry powder ½ tsp chilli flakes ¼ tsp black onion seeds 50g desiccated coconut 1 tbsp rapeseed or vegetable oil Salt Method 1 Heat oven to 190°C. Put the chicken in a large bowl with the lime zest and juice, curry powder, chilli flakes, onion seeds and a pinch of salt. 2 Mix well then roll through the coconut. 3 Place chicken on a rack in a roasting tin and dribble with the oil. Bake for 25 minutes until cooked through and tender. 4 Remove from oven and sprinkle with a little salt to retain crispy finish. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.
One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 17
> flavour lewtrenchard manor
lewtrenchard manor This month Jennie Clark delights in the sumptuous dining deep in the glorious Devonshire countryside... Set in its own Dartmoor valley, Lewtrenchard Manor house dates from the early 17th century. The extensive grounds are a combination of sunken lawns with ornamental ponds and fountains, and the sprawling wilderness that comes naturally to the area. Beyond the heavy wooden door, rows of walking boots beckon the visitor to explore the valley, and huge stone fireplaces promise homely comfort on your return. We stayed in the incredibly romantic Merrial suite, a small tower house set slightly away from the main building. Entering through a hand-carved oak door, stairs lead to a room just big enough for a luxurious four-poster, below the high tower ceiling. Antique sofas and cosy velvet chairs adorn both the lounge and the elegant bar. The collections of furniture, paintings and ornaments tell of the hundreds of years during which the estate has been passed from hand to hand. Gazpacho, olives, crisp balls of molten cheese and anchovy pastry straws were served with cocktails beside an enormous, ancient fireplace decorated with hand-carved figures and animals. For dinner I chose to start with the hot smoked salmon ‘scotch egg’ with asparagus from the garden – an oozing quail yolk within the soft and salty fish. Small, immaculate squares of blushing salmon sat among summery greens, served beside a cool panna cotta. My partner had the rabbit ballotine with foie gras parfait, grape jelly, golden raisin and pickled onion – the bold combinations perfectly executed, a hit of earthy truffle 18
binding them all together. For the main course he went for the fillet of South Devon beef, with ‘skirt wellington’, roast shallot and wild mushrooms ~ still delicately presented, but with the heartiest of flavours. I couldn’t dine in Devon without choosing some of the local seafood, so for the main course I opted for the pan-fried fillet of sea trout, sat on al dente seasonal greens, and accompanied by a generously-packed tortellini of magnificent Brixham crab. Within the light pasta (made that morning), the crab meat was dressed with a punch of lime, and the whole dish doused in a bright, rich roasted crab bisque. The highlight of the desserts had to be the gooseberry and elderflower crumble tart, with honeycomb and honey ice cream – the wholesome flavours of garden-grown fruit and rough crumble was like a homage to a childhood in the English countryside. Head Chef John Hooker’s recently taken over the kitchen from the renowned Jason Hornbuckle, who continues at Lewtrenchard as General Manager. In the last year innovation in the kitchen has taken a leap forward, with the development of the walled kitchen garden – now providing up to 80 per cent of produce ~ and the opening of the Purple Carrot chef’s table. Up to eight guests can get a real experience of the kitchen with a tailored tasting menu served by the chefs who created it, access to a special wine cellar and views of the chefs at work from a private area next door. John – who recently competed to represent the South West in BBC television’s Great
British Menu – is brimming with infectious excitement about the direction the food’s heading. He said, “we’ve got a great team here, there’s only five of us but everyone’s young, passionate and full of ideas. I just want to always be pushing, and exceeding people’s expectations”. “I think people just really want quality ingredients and simplicity – meat that’s been carefully reared, and veg that we’ve run out to the garden to pick earlier that morning. We don’t do molecular gastronomy – there’s no waterbath here – but it’s nice to surprise people with some of those techniques.” The manor house is full of secrets ~ we loved reading about how the estate’s changed under each owner, and browsing the Baring-Gould family library at breakfast. There’s a really unique mix of historic grandeur and homely warmth that can only come from absolute authenticity and continued loving investment. With a new chef, and the kitchen garden flourishing as much as its wild, Dartmoor surroundings, this is the season to discover Lewtrenchard Manor and watch it grow. ■
Lewtrenchard Manor Lewdown Okehampton Devon EX20 4PN 01566 783 222 www.lewtrenchard.co.uk
> flavour xxxxxxx
Small, immaculate squares of blushing salmon sat among summery greens, served beside a cool panna cotta
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Go Green this summer tracy Park is an award-winning country house hotel and golf course situated just outside Bath. Tee-off in a truly breathtaking location then finish up the day by experiencing country casual dining at its best. t: 0117 937 1800 e: info@tracyPark.co.uk W: WWW.tracyPark.co.uk tracy Park, Bath road, Wick, nr. Bath Bs30 5rn
The Biddestone Arms is an award-winning pub nestled in the quintessential Cotswold village of Biddestone, Wiltshire. It prides itself on its food, with fresh fish delivered within hours of being landed and game sourced from local estates. With seating available for up to 80 guests, The Biddestone Arms makes a delightful
venue for weddings and other functions. There is access from the restaurant through to the impressive garden, perfect for a marquee to host canapés and arrival drinks. • Award-winning food • Casque Marque award for real ale • Two/three course set lunch • Impressive Sunday Carvery
Biddestone Arms The Green, Biddestone, Nr Chippenham, Wiltshire, SN14 7DG T: 01249 714377 W: www.biddestonearms.co.uk
> flavour xxxxxxx
Nothing quite beats tucking into a lovingly prepared meal while basking in the sunshine, and for one short season only, you don’t need to go on holiday to do it. Read on to make the most of the great outdoors this summer...
While the sun shines... 21
> flavour while the sun shines
the Mount Somerset The recently refurbished Mount Somerset Hotel, spa and fine dining restaurant is situated in the most tranquil of locations, surrounded by some of the most beautiful views over the English countryside. Open every day of the year for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, both residents and nonresidents are welcome. The menu combines classic favourites and imaginative new dishes from a daily changing lunch menu. Ample al fresco dining space is available at the hotel all of which has stunning views over the award-winning gardens and surrounding countryside. Diners can now choose from our seven-course gourmet tasting menu, a seasonally-changing three-course fine dining menu and now, our recently launched and daily-changing peacock dinner menu allowing diners to enjoy a two-course dinner for just £25 per person.
why go? Stunning views and a seven-course gourmet tasting menu will leave you breathless.
For those with limited time or diners requiring a lighter meal, our all-day menu features traditional classics such as fish and chips, an extensive range of gourmet sandwiches and rolls and our renowned afternoon tea selection. A seasonal, daily-changing lunch menu is also available for £12.50 for two courses.
The Mount Somerset Lower Henlade Somerset TA3 5NB 01823 442 500 www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk
the Paulet Arms The Paulet Arms, a village pub in all senses of the word, recently reopened after 200 years in the wilderness and is delighted to welcome guests to enjoy its fine ales and delicious, locally-sourced food. This charming pub has something for everyone; come in for a game of darts, eat some tapas at the bar or simply enjoy a glass of beer with your pie and chips, expertly prepared by renowned chef Adrian Jones. If you can’t eat in, then The Paulet Arms’ takeaway service, either cooked or uncooked, is the next best thing and you can delight in the fantastic food in the comfort of your own home. The Paulet Arms Westbury Road Edington Wiltshire BA13 4PG T: 01380 830940 W: www.pauletarms.co.uk 22
why go? A fun day for the family beckons on Sunday June 26, where there will be an all-you-can-eat barbecue with a variety of local meats including venison, lamb, beef and chicken. Smoked trout and salmon along with 12 salads and a choice of desserts, coupled with live music and face painting in the park for the children is sure to go down a storm, and all for £12.95.
> flavour while the sun shines
Step into Ston Easton Park, with its crackling log fire, antique furnishings, country charm and warm welcome, and you’ll know you’ve arrived somewhere special…
Ston Easton Park
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ake a stroll outside into the 36 acres of glorious parklands – complete with the quietly cascading River Norr running through the grounds – and you’ll see that the beauty outside matches the opulence inside. Because Ston Easton Park – a superb Palladian mansion nestled in a romantic West Country estate – blends rich heritage with the exacting standards of a four-star hotel. When it comes to fine dining restaurants in Somerset, Ston Easton Park is the perfect place to celebrate in style or give your tastebuds a truly indulgent treat. Not only does the hotel boast an idyllic Mendip Hills
setting, but it also features an authentic Victorian garden that provides much of the produce used in its award-winning restaurant, The Sorrel, backed up by the best local producers. Ston Easton are delighted that Adam Cain has recently been appointed as the new Head Chef and are pleased that he is already cooking up a stir with his imaginative menus created using fresh, local ingredients. Adam is extremely passionate about the quality of his ingredients and has already been discussing his ideas with the gardeners. The outstanding cuisine on offer creates a uniquely desirable dining experience of international renown, and The Sorrel Restaurant counts
why go? In summer, lunches can be served outside on the front terrace/ Prepared picnics and rugs are also available for guests who wish to dine in the grounds, and Oscar, the house Spaniel, is always on hand to guide you through the parkland.
among the best in Bath and Wells. The hotel’s cellars are famed for their selection of fine wines, vintages and extensive range of New World and table wines. A new privilege card is available to regular diners, guests and visitors, offering some superb dining benefits, accommodation privileges and concessionary prices for the ever-popular hotel events. What’s more, with your first lunch or dinner booking, you’ll receive a complimentary bottle of house wine. Please contact the hotel for an application form.
Ston Easton Park Ston Easton Nr Bath Somerset BA3 4DF T: 01761 241631 W: www.stoneaston.co.uk
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> flavour while the sun shines
The Apple Tree near Glastonbury is celebrating the onset of barbeque season and Father’s Day by offering up the recipe for their delicious marinated lamb rumps, balsamic vine tomatoes and char-grilled asparagus. Owners Lee and Ally have created a dish that promises to please Dad every time!
the Apple Tree Marinated lamb rumps, balsamic vine tomatoes and char-grilled asparagus Serves 4 Ingredients 4 6oz English lamb rumps ½ pint Dorset rapeseed oil 2 sprigs rosemary 3 cloves garlic 1 tsp Cornish sea salt 1 tsp pepper Zest of 1 lemon 2 bunches asparagus (peeled and preblanched to al dente) 4 vines of cherry tomatoes (6-8 on each) Balsamic vinegar Butter Sugar Salt Pepper Chervil 1kg Jersey Royal potatoes
Method 1 Place oil, rosemary, garlic, salt, pepper and lemon zest in a blender. Blitz until smooth and strain through a sieve to remove any large stalks etc. Trim the outer skin off the lamb rumps and score into the top layer of fat to allow the marinade to penetrate. Place in a tray and pour marinade over. Cling film, refrigerate and leave for at least 6-24 hours. 2 When you are ready to cook, remove rumps from the marinade, season well and place onto a medium to hot barbecue fat side down in order to crisp the skin. Cook on the remaining sides until ready (best served pink).
3 While the lamb is resting, brush the asparagus with a little rapeseed oil and place on the barbecue and char grill for a couple of minutes before seasoning. Do the same with the vine tomatoes but also add a splash of balsamic vinegar to them when charred. 4 Serve the Jersey Royals warm with plenty of butter and chopped chervil. Place 5 or 6 sprigs of asparagus on a plate, slice the lamb and place on top and then serve the tomatoes and potatoes on the side.
The Apple Tree West Pennard Glastonbury Somerset BA6 8ND 01749 890060 www.appletreeglastonbury.co.uk 24
> flavour while the sun shines
The White Hart Inn Besides a superb Sunday roast, this bar and restaurant offers a continually evolving menu and daily specials. Dishes range from a classic confit of duck with elderberry vinegar dressing, to whole baked sea bass with a lemon and saffron butter. There’s also a range of tapas to be chosen from, including a fabulous rustic pesto.
The golden rule at The White Hart is honest food at honest prices. Two minutes walk from Bath Spa train station over the footbridge to Widcombe, this former Georgian coaching Inn was latterly a biker’s pub. The latest incarnation of this unassuming building however sees it well patronised by local custom for good reason. Having undergone extensive renovation seven years ago, the interior welcomes you into light and space.
During the summer, meal tend to be enjoyed al fresco in the pretty walled garden. Staff are friendly, the atmosphere is casual, the beer is real and the locally sourced food never falls below the exacting standards set by chefs Rupert, Jason, Luke and Rachel. The White Hart Inn Widcombe Hill Widcombe Bath BA2 6AA
why go? Their banana and honey bread and butter pudding!.
01225 338053 www.whitehartbath.co.uk
the Fox Homegrown produce is what The Fox at Broughton Gifford is all about. Sitting in the pretty garden to the rear of the pub you can see the contents of the menu being grown for use in the kitchens. From salads and vegetables to soft fruits and herbs, the gardens have been turned into an extension of the kitchen – it’s merely a case of food metres here! In a paddock adjoining the garden there’s an ever-increasing collection of livestock and poultry; chickens and ducks kept for their eggs and rare breed pigs are turned into sausages, bacon, hams and charcuterie on site. With a cluster of tables outside, The Fox is one of the nicest locations to enjoy a spot of summer dining. Be advised to book at weekends as it does get busy! Broughton Gifford Melksham Wiltshire SN12 8PN
why go? With the majority of the produce being grown on site, Sunday lunches at The Fox are not to be missed.
T: 01225 782949 W: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk 25
> flavour while the sun shines
Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, just six miles east of Bath, is gearing up for the summer. Set in its own 500-acre private estate, Lucknam Park with its five red stars is one of the UK’s finest country house hotels and a proud member of Relais Chateaux.
Lucknam Park
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uisine is at the forefront of the guests’ experience at Lucknam Park and Executive Chef Hywel Jones (pictured far right) is not only proud of his one Michelin star for The Park Restaurant but was named Welsh Champion after winning his regional heat on BBC 2’s Great British Menu and got all the way to the final!
Adjoining the fabulous spa within the walled garden at Lucknam Park, The Brasserie with its impressive woodfired oven set within the open kitchen offers all day dining with a choice of lounge area, bar and restaurant. On those sultry warm days The Brasserie terrace is the place to be for lunch or dinner. Monday to Friday enjoy special two-course lunch menu from £16 per person.
In his quest for perfection Hywel likes to use the finest organic ingredients to ensure the fullest flavours so, in keeping with his philosophy, last April Lucknam Park began the development of a new kitchen garden in collaboration with renowned horticulturist Richard Vine. The Old vinery, an historic greenhouse has been restored and already an eclectic range of micro salads and herbs are growing. The newly built eight large raised beds, filled with over 120 tons of top soil, will have over 30 varieties of produce, ranging from alpine strawberries and rhubarb through to runner and broad beans; from edible flowers to root and brassica crops. Fresh homegrown micro salads are
For more details on dining at Lucknam Park please visit www.lucknampark.co.uk or for reservations please call 01225 742 777
already being used in both The Park and The Brasserie restaurants and further produce will follow over the summer months. The Michelin star Park Restaurant is a light and elegant restaurant in the main house overlooking the estate. Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday and now also open for Sunday lunch. Enjoy a beautiful summer setting and a traditional three-course lunch for £45 per person – perfect for a Father’s Day treat! For al fresco and informal dining The Brasserie is the perfect setting.
Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa Colerne Chippenham SN14 8AZ
why go? Lucknam Park is approached by a magnificent mile-long avenue of 400 lime and beech trees planted in 1827 and is set within 500 acres of beautiful woodland and parkland.
> flavour while the sun shines
The Pear Tree Inn
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t’s not hard to see why Marco Pierre White fell in love with The Pear Tree Inn. It’s Whitley’s hidden gem – a picture perfect country inn set in pretty landscaped grounds of weeping willows, flagstones and turf with charming nooks and crannies to explore. Venture inside and you wont be disappointed, as the cosy bar and understated elegance of ample dining areas create the perfect ambience in which to sample a good cask ale, devour a succulent Aberdeen Angus steak, enjoy a light lunch on the hoof, or settle in for the night with a stunning three course supper and a wine list that caters for all palettes and pockets. For those who might want to stay just a little longer, there are eight delightful ensuite bedrooms to choose from. Straight from the MPW stable, The Pear Tree’s experienced team have gained his respect and trust during their time at Harvey’s, the Yew Tree and Mirabelles, and they share a strong passion for providing honest food and warm hospitality. The Wheeler’s of St James’s menu is surprisingly good value for money (with the two course table d’hote menu just £15.90 and Sunday lunch three course menu at £19.50) and is full of Marco’s signature dishes such
as fresh sardines on toast with tomato compôte, black olive tapenade and Wheeler’s fish pie. Mouth-watering desserts include Wheeler’s poached pears and cream and Albert Roux’s raspberry soufflé. So whether it’s pleasant alfresco dining during the warmer months or a cosy winter’s evening meal by a roaring open fire you’re looking for – we know you’ll be charmed by the Pear Tree Inn. As Marco Pierre White concludes “The Pear Tree is a truly beautiful pub, it would be right up there on anyone’s wish list to own, I am only a caretaker, one day it will be passed on to someone else – when you are given an opportunity to own something as beautiful as The Pear Tree you have to respect it”.
WIN! An overnight stay for two with dinner from table d’hote menu and traditional English breakfast.
To win, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, telephone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck! Terms and conditions: Stay must be taken Sunday-Thursday and is subject to availability. Offer ends 30 November 2011.
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> flavour a splash of summer
a splash of summer Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.
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It always feels like the world has so much more to offer in June. In January I sit shivering in my car, hating leaving for and returning from work in the dark. Not so in the long, lazy evenings of June – the day only feels half-finished when I arrive home. Naturally, I find a wine to fit the occasion. Heavy reds are out, delicate, light whites are in. In the fridge that is – and then out on my garden table. They don’t usually last very long at that point! But which to choose? An obvious solution in this category is Pinot Grigio. The UK has embarked on a passionate love affair with this grape over the last ten years (a fact I’m sure I don’t need to tell you) and driven
Italy’s share of the wine market once again. Sometimes I wonder if it’s chosen so often because it’s a familiar name, or if consumers really like the style. I’m going to assume a combination of the two, but either way it’s clear to see that consumers can easily get trapped in their comfort zone of buying the same wine over and over. True – it avoids risky purchases, but it’s also a lot less interesting than a bit of experimentation. You don’t have to move away from the crisp, delicate style of this grape to find something you like – but sometimes it’s hard to know where to start. So – for all you Pinot Grigio lovers, here’s a few alternatives to your favourite grape.
> flavour a splash of summer
Chardonnay is often about as different in style to Pinot Grigio as you can get. But it’s easy to forget what a versatile grape Chardonnay is. When grown in France it is often sold in different guises so many people are unaware of the fantastic range of tastes this wine can offer us. Macon Villages is fresh, lemony Chardonnay from the Maconnais region, slap bang in the middle of Burgundy. Unoaked to show off its fruit flavours, it’s the perfect summer evening wine and an excellent match for seafood. Try the Beauvernon Macon Villages by Thorin, at the excellent fresh fish restaurant the Lobster Pot in Farnham – perfect with the sharing seafood platter. www.the-lobster-pot.co.uk Onto another French, equally easy to drink and equally delicious wine. Picpoul de Pinet is from the South of France, around the sleepy village of Pinet in Languedoc. You’ll be forgiven for not having heard of it – it’s been grown there for centuries but its renaissance only began in 2007 in the bars of London, LA and New York. Surprisingly bright and
fresh for a wine produced in such a warm climate, it’s rather like a fuller bodied, richer Muscadet with plenty of citrussy fruit. At the Verveine Fishmarket in Milford on Sea, the fresh fish menu changes daily. Not a problem for our rising star Domaine Sainte-Anne Picpoul – choose your combination when you arrive, sit back with a glass while you wait, and enjoy. www.verveine.co.uk While we’re on the subject of indigenous wines, let’s move to North West Italy to another increasingly popular wine. Gavi di Gavi is made from the Cortese grape and its unoaked, fresh minerally flavour is often compared to Chablis (another wine that fits nicely into this category). Gavi is Piemonte’s most celebrated white wine, made in the South West of the region. With its contemporary packaging and easy drinking style, Gavi di Gavi Le Toledana is at home in either a bar or restaurant environment
and great for some more experimental concepts. At Somewhere Else deli bar in Cirencester, you’ll find just that. It offers a ‘create your own’ evening menu with a mix of fusion-style dishes from a range of global cuisines. My only advice is – try as much as you can, of everything. www.somewhereelse.co.uk Finally – another native grape – another on-trend wine, and one of my favourites. Albarino from Spain, traditionally grown in the North Western region of Rias Baixas. As delicate as our other wines, but accompanied with citrus, dried flower and vanilla, spicy aromas. The Raimat Albarino Vina 24, grown untraditionally just west of Barcelona, is fantastically refreshing and my ultimate summer wine. You don’t need any food to show it at its best, so a beachside hotel where you can escape with an ice bucket is the ideal location. Head to the St Ives Harbour Hotel and soak up the glorious Cornish atmosphere in the sunshine. www.stives-harbour-hotel. co.uk
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> flavour mitch tonks
Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.
Here’s the ca ch With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month new flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice... Squid has always been immensely popular in continental Europe and enjoyed by Brits holidaying abroad in the form of calamari, the ubiquitous dish of squid which has been deep fried for a few seconds in a hot crisp batter and then eaten hot and dipped in a garlicky aioli. Ah dreams of the Mediterranean!
This month:
squid Squid works well with strong flavours, the salty meatiness of chorizo; the spike of hot chilli; the zesty freshness of citrus fruit and the aromatic woody herbs of rosemary or, best of all, thyme.
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It is increasingly popular with chefs in the UK, as we catch some really wonderful squid in the South Coastal waters, but it is showing up on menus braised, fried, grilled, barbecued and paired with Asian flavours. One of the reasons I think it is popular on menus is that people are still a bit nervous of both preparing and cooking squid, so eating it when out is a good option. It is a bit of an ugly beast and there is some fiddling around to be done to remove the skin and membrane or quill but this can all be done by your fishmonger who will also score it or slice it into rings if that is what you prefer. Freshness is easily recognised by it’s shiny white flesh (once washed and membrane removed) and a delicate smell of the ocean and nothing more. Squid is, like all fresh food, perishable, and ideally you should buy it the day you want to eat it. When you cut into fresh squid the pure white flesh yields like soft rubber but, and this is a big but, none of that rubbery quality is evident in the mouth when it has been cooked correctly. Most people go wrong at this stage and worry they need to cook it for longer than a minute or two and this is when you will change that texture resulting in something a bit chewy. Either cook it very very fast or braise it for an hour or more – nothing in between, don’t lose your nerve and you will get fantastic results!
> flavour xxxxxxx
Grilled Squid with garlic, chilli, parsley Serves two as a starter You will need – 2 squid weighing about 150g each 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 dried bird’s eye chilli Juice of one lemon and a little zest Salt Pinch of cumin Small handful of parsley, finely chopped Olive oil
To Make 1 Heat the grill or barbecue to maximum. 2 First make the dressing by putting some olive oil in a pan and adding the garlic, chilli, lemon juice and zest and salt, turn up the heat and allow the garlic to flavour the oil. Continue to cook gently and as soon as the garlic starts to brown, remove from the heat.
3 When your coals are nice and white and the grill bars are nice and hot, brush the squid with olive oil and salt, not forgetting the tentacles. Place on the grill and cook for 5 -6 minutes either side. 4 You will get nice golden marks from the grill. Serve the squid on a plate, putting the tentacles at the bottom, just as if you were putting it back together. Taste the dressing and spoon over the squid.
Recipe taken from FISH by Mitch Tonks published by Pavilion. Photo by Chris Terry © Mitch Tonks Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill 31
> flavour daffodil
daffodil This month flavour Editor Holly Aurelius-Haddock takes a trip to Cheltenham and discovers whole new take on the Monday Blues… Although I’m a tad young to remember the Boomtown Rats’ hit “Tell me why I don’t like Mondays”, the sentiment rings as true now as it did back in the 1970s. On this dreaded day the precious weekend is at its furthest, the to-do list is at its longest and consequently, moods tend to be at their lowest. Ever the optimist however, I recently decided to take further musical inpsiration to re-brand my least favourite day of the week. And so ‘Happy Mondays’ was born.
himself on taking full advantage of the best quality produce within arm’s reach.
It seems that the team at The Daffodil in Cheltenham cottoned onto this idea a long time ago, which is why Monday evenings are usually the busiest of the week. When they come around, not only can you enjoy all the aesthetic delights of dining in a former art deco cinema – a reason worth going for alone – but you can do it whilst being serenaded by the sultry sounds of a live jazz band. How very civilised.
Trying not to fill up prematurely despite generous helpings, it was time to move onto the main act. A pan-seared sea bass fillet with caramelised fennel and onions, buttered Cornish new potatoes and sauce vierge would not have been out of place on the menu at Rick Stein’s bistro in Padstow, both in name and quality. It was also refreshing to sample a char-roasted pork fillet that didn’t fall into the trap of being overcooked, lifted by the thoughtful additions of braised lemon chicory and green apple mash.
Being shown to your table at The Daffodil is reminiscent of the Goodfellas secene where Henry and Karen are led through the bowels of the Copacabana to the best seats in the house. The waiting staff are even thoughtful enough to serve tables from the side or back, so as not to spoil the view of the Venezuelan quartet performing on the evening of my visit. The Daffodil 18-20 Suffolk Parade Cheltenham GL50 2AE 01242 700055 www.thedaffodil.com 32
The restaurant’s modern British menu is wide ranging in choice, but don’t let that give you the wrong impression. Head Chef Norbert Schon strongly believes that a restaurant situated in the heart of the Cotswolds should see local provenance reflected in all the dishes, so he prides
A perfect example of this philosophy was in the twice-baked Double Gloucester soufflé, where bold flavours were expertly encased in a feather-light consistency. To die for. A second starter of chicken and vegetable terrine came beautifully presented and seasoned, if not a little let down by the sweet apricot chutney – perhaps a touch more acidity needed here.
Finally dessert, and what a dessert it was! Few words can describe the lasting impression made by a scoop of homemade passion fruit sorbet and banoffee ice cream, but I’ll give it my best shot: Absolutely. Gorgeous. In an age where Musak (elevator worthy music) can often be the best thing on offer during dinner, The Daffodil attends to its food and entertainment with the greatest of care and consequently, promises to have you singing its praises from the rooftops. ■
> flavour xxxxxxx
A pan seared sea-bass fillet with caramelised fennel and onions, buttered Cornish new potatoes and sauce vierge would not have been out of place on the menu at Rick Stein’s bistro in Padstow
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Long lazy lunches... cocktails by the river... dinner under the stars... 58 Stanton-BathPriory:P.52
4/9/10
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www.wildfirebistro.com
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Tel: 01803 837180 | Email: info@wildfirebistro.com | Sandquay Road, Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9PH.
• Rosemary Restaurant • Japanese Sunday buffet lunch • “All you can eat” dinner on Thursdays • Japanese à la carte menu • Afternoon cream tea on the patio
The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857 restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk
StantonHouseHotel www.stantonhouse.co.uk
> flavour café maitreya
Get your pots and pans at the ready to cook up the next in our series of delicious recipes from top vegetarian restaurant Café Maitreya...
pan fried courgette flowers
stuffed with goat’s cheese and pine nuts
This dish screams of summer with its vibrant colours, textures and floral flavours. A Mediterranean old-school favourite, using courgette flowers should really break out of their fine dining image in the UK. There always seems to be a glut of courgettes and using the flowers is a truly rewarding alternative to ratatouille! Serves 6 Ingredients 6 large courgette flowers 300g hard (or crumbly) goat’s cheese 1 medium red onion, finely diced 1 clove garlic, finely chopped Fine zest ½ lemon 6 sprigs of mint, finely chopped 50g toasted pine nuts 1 egg (beaten to use as egg wash) 100 g plain flour 50ml olive oil or good sunflower oil for sautéing Method 1 Remove the goat’s cheese rind and beat the cheese to smooth; then add the
onion, garlic, lemon zest, mint, raspberry vinegar and pine nuts. Chill in freezer for 10 minutes. 2 Divide the goat’s cheese mix into 6 and carefully shape into ‘fat cigar’ shape rounds to fit the flowers. 3 Carefully part one side of each flower and insert the shaped mix then re-shape the flower around the mix (don’t worry if some of the goat’s cheese mix is visible). 4 Brush each stuffed flower lightly with egg wash and coat fully in plain flour. 5 Heat a large frying pan to a low to moderate temperature and gently sauté the flowers, carefully turning until crisp and even for 3 minutes until just taking colour and the goat’s cheese just starting to separate.
The name maitreya is derived from sanskrit and means universal love or loving kindness and Café Maitreya has been set up to reflect those values in the food. Judged among the best vegetarian restaurants in the UK by The National Vegetarian Society, the Bristol-based restaurant serves modern, vibrant dishes using smallscale and ethical suppliers. T: 01179 510100 W: www.cafemaitreya.co.uk
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You might rather like the sound of The Olive Tree, but should know that our menu's “judgement of flavour combinations will consistently be excellent”. (That's what the AA says about its three-rosette restaurants.) Be aware, too, that our wine list is “an object lesson in its unstinting commitment to quality”. (So says the 2011 Good Food Guide in naming it wine list of the year.) We wouldn't want to spoil your delight, but not everyone likes too much of a surprise …
ROLLING BACK THE YEARS… FAMILY OWNED, FAMILY RUN, FAMILY VALUES! Cotswold charm and six hundred years of history in the newly restored Old Swan and Minster Lovell brought to you by the de Savary Family. Set on the banks of the beautiful and famous River Windrush, close to Oxford, the Inn and adjoining Mill are a quintessential English country retreat. Think cosy oak-beamed, flag-stoned snugs, sumptuous sitting rooms and elegantly comfy bedrooms. Tasty gastro-pub inspired dining using fresh local ingredients crafted into heart-warming favourites. Set in 65 acres of magical gardens and wild-flower meadows, there’s tennis, boules, spa and over a mile of superb fishing as well as a children’s petting farm.
Visit www.oldswanandminstermill.com CirCa 1445
Old Swan & Minster Mill on
THE rivEr WindruSH, in THE COTSWOldS
Old Minster, Minster Lovell, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 0RN ENGLAND Tel: +44 (0) 1993 774441 E: enquiries@oldswanandminstermill.com an HiSTOriC inn, HOTEl and Spa Old Swan & Minster Mill, School Hill, Minster Lovell, Witney, Oxfordshire, OX29 0RN Telephone: 01993 774441 Fax: 01993 702 002 Email: enquiries@oldswanandminstermill.com www.oldswanandminstermill.com
> flavour jika jika
jika jika Waking up early in the morning is made more tolerable for Nick Gregory as he calls into one of Bath’s favourite coffee and dining emporiums... “If some coffees are more equal than others, our coffees are more equal than that.” A bold motto by coffee house and canteen Jika Jika, but one it stands by, upholds and as regards to its competition, remains largely unchallenged. Founded by England and British Lions rugby stars Lee Mears and Matt Stevens some 18 months ago and situated on George Street in Bath, Jika Jika offers a coffee and dining experience unrivalled in Bath.
so having a coffee explained to me so enthusiastically and savouring its charms was a whole new hill of beans. But it was a nice hill of beans.
and you won’t leave hungry. There are daily specials and Jika Jika is licensed so you can enjoy a beer or wine with your fare if it’s that time of day.
Despite the knowledge and care applied by Jika Jika on their coffees (their teas as well), you are not expected to pay for that privilege and with prices ranging from £1.50 ~ £2.40 a time it’s well worth what detour you may have to make to take advantage of that benefit. After all, it’s far more salubrious running with a pedigree than taking your chances on an also-ran.
Although there is not a large outside area (there are just a few tables out the front) to enjoy your food and drink, the inside more than makes up for that with a spacious and agreeable décor, complete with high ceilings, an open plan and ample room to park a small bus. The service cannot be faulted and the smells emanating from the central kitchen and coffee machines get your senses on the move.
Of course there are the obligatory chains, smaller tearooms and cafes dotted around the Georgian streets, and if you’re looking for a cup of instant and a greasy spoon you’ll be barking up the wrong tree, but with trained baristas (the sommeliers of the coffee world) on hand to prepare and dispense your blend of choice, you have a unique opportunity to sample and return to a niche that delivers on quality and know-how. Manager, barista and recently crowned UK Latte Art Champion, Paul Whitehead, served me up a cup of the house blend (60% Brazilian, 20% Nicaraguan, 20% Sumatran) and I soon desired another. Now, I normally only use coffee as a back-up alarm clock in the morning or a pick-me-up when flagging mid-afternoon,
Jika Jika is a coffee house with big and valid claims. Competing in a crowded and competitive marketplace and a small fish in a big pond it may well be, but I’d rather look at a prize Japanese Koi Carp among a shoal of goldfish any day of the week. It is what it is and as for its motto, yep, I’ll go along with that. ■
The food menu is appealing too. Try any one of the house salads (from £7.50), the oven-baked flatbreads (£5.95) or for the early starter some magical options such as the Jika Jika breakfast burrito (£6.25)
Jika Jika 4a Princes Buildings George Street Bath BA1 2ED 01225 429 903 www.jikajika.co.uk 37
> flavour cider season
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cider season Known and loved as the West Country’s favourite tipple, cider sales have rocketed all over the UK in recent years. This month flavour takes a look at some of the region’s finest purveyors of The Mad Apple...
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efore it underwent a serious renaissance, cider was in the perilous position that befell the real ale industry 30 years ago. Number of outlets were diminishing, while perry cider (made from pears) was rarely available away from the farm because producers couldn’t match the demand of the desired fruit. Most of the well-known ciders available now are cold and fizzy, but there are several bastions of natural production remaining and none more so than here in the West Country. Cider apples, grown specifically for the purpose of making cider, are generically identified as bittersweets or bittersharps and are normally taken from a variety of apples. It is widely thought that the more varieties used the better due to the numerous characteristics, however, recently more and more producers are making cider from single varieties and these have also proved popular and lend to a great drop.
Harvesting of cider apples usually takes place between late-August and November when the fruit is ripe, and by October production is normally in full flow. Apples are washed, then crushed into a pulp and placed in layers on a press and the juice is extracted. The pulp is then wrapped in fine mesh cloths - although some producers still use layers of straw - and then the natural yeasts in the apples start the fermentation process. The cider can take until the following spring depending on temperatures before they are fully fermented and ready to drink. Real cider is usually served from a polycask or similar container, but lately Manucubes (a bag in a box) system have been widely adopted to extend the shelf life up to three months. Although enjoyed all year round, cider drinkers normally flourish in the summer and we can be thankful that these producers have stuck with this very English tradition, keeping our orchards in apples and by extension, our cider in our glasses... 39
> flavour cider season
Did you know? There are over 365 different varieties of cider apples – one for every day of the year! Over two million new cider apple trees have been planted since 1995. 45 per cent of all UK apples are now used to make cider. Cloudy, unfiltered ciders made in the West Country are often called “scrumpy”, from “scrump”, a local dialect term for a small or withered apple. In the 14th Century children were baptised in cider because it was cleaner than the water!
E
Captain Cook carried cider on his ships to treat his crew for scurvy. In the 19th Century cider was advertised as a cure for the gout and other illnesses. Farm workers’ wages in earlier times included four pints of cider a day. Around 13 per cent of UK adults drink cider at least once a month while 49 per cent drink wine and 51 per cent drink beer. Cider is enjoyed equally by men and women, but women drink half the volume of men.
stablis 986 hed1
BEER & CIDER FESTIVAL Friday 24th - Sunday 26th June Come and meet fellow beer & cider connoisseurs, have a bite to eat & listen to some fantastic music in our garden Tent open 2pm - 10.30pm Live music on the balcony Friday Holly & George Cosgrove Saturday Loose Change Sunday The Panama Jazz Band
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Hog Roast Barbeque Charity Raffle
20 Real Ales & Ciders
High Street, Saltford, Bristol Tel: 01225873335 enquiry@birdinhandsaltford.co.uk www.birdinhandsaltford.co.uk
Ashridge Cider The Ashridge orchards consist of many different varieties of cider apples and have now been converted to organic status. Jason Mitchell, proprietor of Ashridge, is a firm believer in using many different cider apples in his ciders, as he believes this blend produces a flavour of great depth and complexity. Ashridge have made their name producing exceptional ‘Champagne method’ sparkling ciders – the Vintage Sparkling Cider is a classic bubbly with great balance of fruit and acidity and it’s won the Great Taste Award (Gold) for the last three years. Devon Blush is a fruity pink fizz flavoured with blackberry and is perfect for weddings. The range has now been extended to include a still, draught cider and the Organic Vintage Cider – medium dry and lightly carbonated with a great depth of flavour.
If you are looking for a bit of summer in a bottle, Ashridge Organics’ elderflower pressé, sparkling lemonade and sparkling apple juice are all bursting with flavour and refreshing reminders of an English summer. A combination of an appreciation for traditional craftsmanship and imaginative products has earned Ashridge its reputation and popularity in the West Country.
Ashridge Cider, Barkingdon Farm, Totnes, TQ9 6AN T: 01364 654749 W: www.ashridgecider.co.uk
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> flavour coronation tap
the coronation tap
A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com Clifton isn’t the most famous suburb of Bristol for nothing; Brunel’s Suspension Bridge, the Observatory and Camera Obscura, the Avon Gorge itself with its nesting peregrines and ravens, not to mention the magnificent architecture and rolling Downs. No wonder it is one of the most visited ‘villages’ in the West Country.
The Coronation Tap 8 Sion Place Clifton Bristol BS8 4AX Tel: 01179 739 617 www.thecoronationtap.com 42
But, amid all the elegance and Victorian finery, tucked at the far end of Portland Street, is a pub almost as famous as Clifton itself. From the outside it’s unprepossessing, discreet and understated – just a door at the end of a cul de sac – but step inside The Coronation Tap and you find a genuine piece of history popular with students, tourists and residents alike. The Coronation Tap was here when ‘all this
was fields!’. It pre-dates the Suspension Bridge and was actually a farm with its own orchard in the 1700s. These were the days of the ancient ceremony of wassailing – a tradition observed to ensure a good crop of apples each year – when farm workers were paid in cider, and it is from these origins that the farm gradually evolved into a popular cider house. Certainly, by the turn of the 19th century, when Clifton’s popularity had grown off the back of the Hotwells springs, the Coronation Tap was already thriving and Victorians would promenade along the riverside before catching the Clifton Rocks Railway up to the village and a refreshing glass of cider or ale.
> flavour coronation tap
Raise a glass to... Cask Ales Sharp’s Doom Bar (4%) Named after a treacherous sand bank in the Camel Estuary, this has become the brewery’s flagship beer. Flowers and berries are recalled with a waft of this under your nose, and when you taste it the fruit remains but is joined more overtly by the malty bitterness that is its trademark. Bath Gem (4.1%) From Warmley in Bristol. This is a really clever brew because as you drink it it’s all fruit and hops and full of flavour, but then as you drain the last drop and utter a satisfied ‘aaah’, you sense a dryness in the mouth that sends you back for another. Ciders Thatchers Cheddar Valley Cider Made at Thatchers’ Orchards in Sandford, this cider has either a delightfully vibrant, or frightfully scary orange hue to it. It is matured in oak vats that give it a distinctively dry but eminently drinkable quality. Deceptively strong, so treat it with respect.
These days the ‘Cori Tap’ is surrounded by houses, shops and the general hubbub of busy Clifton life, but inside it is a delightful refuge from the cares and concerns of the 21st century. There’s just one bar, with three linked drinking areas. The decor is kept deliberately austere, with wooden flooring, panelled walls and pillars, and simple furnishings. Banquette seating forms a broken perimeter around much of the pub, with plenty of space left in the centre for standing drinkers. The low beams above your head proclaim the wares and fayre on offer here, but the three blackboards give the best pointer to the priorities of the current regime. For this is Clifton’s only cider house, and the blackboard lists up to a dozen varieties of the apple-based refresher, whether cloudy, sparkling or bottled. The term ‘cider house’ can conjure up certain images – of
ruddy nosed reprobates best avoided, or rough-hewn yokels with bits of cheese in their beards – but that doesn’t apply here. The Cori Tap is truly a cider house, but it knows its clientele. The place is spotlessly keen, and you are much more likely to see professionals in white collars than Wurzels in smocks. Although well lit, the pub only has one clear external window, and there is a real sense of shutting out the outside world. There is no doubt this is a popular student venue and it can get very busy later on a Friday or Saturday evening, but it’s a joyous, inclusive, friendly sort of bustle. Live music also plays a part, with a real emphasis on the very best local artistes. Only open in the evenings, this is a pub that defies expectations. A cider house, a trendy bar, a refuge from stress... The Cori Tap is all these things and more. ■
Taunton Traditional Straw coloured and with a natural haze, this is a traditional cider in the true sense of the word. A staple of cider pubs throughout the South West, it has a crisp, appley flavour to it. And no, cider doesn’t always taste of apples, perhaps it should! Thatchers Traditional A personal favourite of mine. This cider is made from a 1904 recipe before the days when ‘carbonation’ was deemed a good thing. As a result, this is a hazy, butterscotch coloured cider that swamps the taste buds with a refreshing, fruity flavour. Cori Exhibition A famous cider prepared exclusively for the Cori. It’s very strong, at 8.4% abv, but tastes smoother than the strength would suggest. Definitely a sipping cider, but the flavour has the subtlety of a really good barley wine.
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> flavour cider season
Sheppy’s Farming and cider-making have been in the Sheppy family’s blood and for the past 200 years, they have been producing some of the best quality traditional Somerset ciders. Although the skill and craftsmanship that goes into these ciders has remained unchanged over the generations, modern technology has helped with some of the tougher jobs! Fifty-five acres of traditional and bush orchards produce around 150,000 gallons of fine cider, which is naturally fermented and matured in giant oak vats. This cider creates a range of vintage, draught, single variety and flavoured ciders, which are
available from the farm shop, independent retailers and supermarkets. In addition, Sheppy’s popular new cider, Somerset Draught, is now available in pubs throughout the South West. The Sheppy family farm, at Three Bridges,is open to the public all year round, receiving visitors to the farm shop, Rural Life Museum and tea rooms. Visitors are welcome to enjoy long peaceful walks in the orchards and to taste the cider in the farm shop. Groups of 20 or more can book a guided tour. The farm is open to visitors Monday–Saturday all year round, between
8.30am and 6pm, and on Sundays in July and August between 11am and 4pm.
Sheppy’s Cider Limited, Three Bridges, Bradford-on-Tone, Taunton, Somerset, TA4 1ER T: 01823 461233 W: www.sheppyscider.com
RE ch NOW N a ciDmpiOED ER N s
refreshingly welsh traditional farmhouse Ciders www.gwyntcider.com
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> flavour cider season
Wassail away!
What is a Wassail? The apple or pear Wassail is a traditional form of wassailing practiced in the orchards of South West England during the winter.
Where does it come from? There is plenty of debate as to the origins of wassailing but some things are known. The word ‘wassail’ comes from the AngloSaxon ‘wes hail’, meaning ‘be whole’ or ‘be in good health’ which was spoken on meeting and parting. It became the custom in England to drink a toast of Wassail on Old Christmas Eve (January 5), Twelfth night (January 6) or Old Twelfth night (January 17) to the good health of the apple trees that would bear the crop from which next year’s cider would be made in the Autumn. Wassail bowls (large punch-style bowls) were brought into the barnyard to toast the health of cattle, fruit trees, and fields, and then pieces of bread soaked in cider were placed in the crooks of trees, guns were fired and pots and pans were banged to ward off evil spirits. The trees were then toasted with special rhymes.
Traditionally the wassailers would then head back to the pub for singing, drinking and general merriment.
Where is it practiced? The ceremonies of each wassail vary from village to village but they generally all have the same core elements. Among the most famous Wassail ceremonies are those in Whimple, Devon and Carhampton, Somerset, both on 17 January, although many villages and towns hold smaller events every year.
What’s a traditional wassailing chant? Huzza, Huzza, in our good town, The bread shall be white, and the liquor be brown, So here my old fellow I drink to thee, And the very health of each other tree. Well may ye blow, well may ye bear, Blossom and fruit both apple and pear, So that every bough and every twig, May bend with a burden both fair and big, May ye bear us and yield us fruit such a stors, That the bags and chambers and house run o’er. 45
> flavour cavendish
cavendish
On one of the most revered and renowned streets in Bath, Faye Allen enjoyed a meal at a muchloved and yet often forgotten treasure in the centre of the city... Great Pulteney Street, one of Bath’s more gracious and striking streets, has been receiving an increasing amount of attention recently. One of the city’s most iconic landmarks, the Holburne Museum, is set to reopen after three years of closure. The museum has been missed and despite leaving the city divided over its rather brave glass extension, the return of the collections it contains has been most welcomed.
Dukes Hotel and Cavendish Restaurant Great Pulteney Street Bath BA2 4DN 01225 787960 www.dukesbath.co.uk 46
of the sophisticated dining space can immediately excite the first-time diner into an unprecedented frenzy; good things are sure to come. I am however slightly biased, as it was only a short time after entering when my guest and I were whisked away by the zealous and committed head chef, Pieter Swanepoell.
It wasn’t the buzz of the museum however that caught my attention on my latest visit to this picture-postcard street, rather it was the Dukes Hotel which houses a rather special and what seems to be, relatively unknown restaurant; The Cavendish.
Seeing the workings of a chef’s kitchen has always been a very intriguing experience for me. Pieter and his sous chef, Roland, had kept an impressive stage for their proceeding masterpieces. Ordered and clean, the air was filling up quickly with the smells of bubbling pans and freshly baked bread.
Once you step inside, it wouldn’t come as a surprise to learn that this beautiful Bath hotel is used to attracting two particular buzzwords and at the risk of sounding unoriginal, this restaurant is both elegant and very comfortable. Warm and welcoming, the luxurious setting
Feeling like two giddy schoolchildren, we sat down at our crisp linen tables with weighty silverware and prepared for the first of our seven courses from the tasting menu. It is Peter’s objective to play with the different textures of food on the plate and to experiment with hot and cold,
> flavour cavendish
something he achieved with reverence at the first dish of tomato consommé, goat’s cheese bon bon and truffle bubbles. Served in a cup and drunk as a coffee, the sweet tomato with the warm, creamy goat’s cheese and small capers cleansed the palate and was fantastic fun.
At the risk of sounding unoriginal, this restaurant is both elegant and very comfortable..
The evening continued with hand-dived smoked scallops, smoked pork belly and butternut squash; a perfect play on sweet and saltiness. The highlight however was the main course and this small, but very powerful dish is reason enough to book a table and travel down from wherever you are currently sitting; duo of Hunts Farm Longhorn beef, seared fillet, glazed tongue, wild mushroom tortellini and grelot onions. Succulent, rich, sweet and earthy, this dish is a beautifully conducted testament to farm owner Richard Vaughan and his wife, who work hard to offer the best rare breed beef, pork and lamb available. My sweet tooth was well and truly satisfied with the cherry sorbet, sweet cream and honeycomb pieces that made a refreshing and clean finish to a surprisingly light, all be it seven-course, meal. The assiette of desserts to finish was a creative selection of sweet pieces of chocolate brownie, mango ice cream and fudge. The Cavendish is in the middle of a complete menu redesign. It is moving from the traditions of fine dining into a more relaxed, but just as gastronomically creative brasserie menu. Do not fret as the tasting menu will still be on offer at the weekends at £40 a head. Changing with demand has been a necessary experience for many businesses of late, but Pieter’s down-to-earth and passionate nature will ensure the delivery of quality produce cooked with ingenious flair, and that remains at the core of everything they do at The Cavendish. ■ 47
> flavour chef profile
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> flavour chef profile
chef profile Name: Simon Jackson Originally from: Berry, Lancashire Head Chef at: Rugantino Restaurant at the Ancient Gatehouse Hotel When I joined the Royal Navy in 1985 it was with the intention that I would become an engineer but as they didn’t have any availability, I started as a chef. I served at HMS Collingwood and moved on to The Intrepid and The Challenger. I came out of the Navy in 1989 and cooked at various places up until 1992 when I became head chef at the Red Lion Hotel in Wells. In 2002 I started my own pub/ restaurant called The Westbury Inn, but due to increasing rent, I left to begin work at Rugantino Restaurant in 2008. My first head chef was a guy called Nick Vardi who I learnt from when I was in the Navy. He has remained the biggest inspiration in my career and without him I wouldn’t have stuck to cooking nor realised my potential and creativity. When I left my own business I was approached by the owners of The Ancient Gatehouse, Jon and Nick. They wanted to turn the restaurant into a more authentic Italian dining experience and to introduce things like fresh pasta. Because of my experience cooking Italian food at the Red Lion Hotel, I jumped at the chance. I wanted to push the place forward and realise the big plans and ideas that all three of us were talking about. Rugantino Restaurant at the Ancient Gatehouse Hotel 20 Sadler Street Wells Somerset BA5 2SE 01749 672029 www.ancientgatehouse.com
When I first started we didn’t have anything and now we have our first rosette. We want to give an insight into authentic Italian cooking. Although we are fine dining and silver service, it is an informal and easygoing environment. I don’t like anything too fancy. I like to see value for money on the plate and
lots of flavours. We want people to feel comfortable enough so they can just come in for a drink and a bar snack and feel welcome at the same time. We’re clearly doing something right as we have won Best of Wells Restaurant three times in a row now. I create the menus with Jon and Nick. They make regular trips to Italy and they are always bringing back fresh, exciting produce as well as ideas. They give me a lot of free reign and allow me to experiment with new produce and techniques. We have two lunch menus, one a fresh pasta menu and a second menu featuring fresh fish and poultry. We make the pasta every day and use traditional methods and ingredients and we change the lunch menus every day. We also have an evening menu that we run every six months with slight tweaks depending on produce. We also have daily specials. There is nowhere around here that makes fresh pasta like we do. We source the finest semolina from Italy and I use freerange eggs and no flour. We make fresh fish pasta such as crab ravioli and tortellini with fresh meat. We also dry cure our own meat called guanciale, which is locally sourced cured pig cheek. Cheffing is a great career and something I would recommend to youngsters looking to get into the industry. I have cooked a banquet for the Queen Mother at the Ark Royal Commissioning as well as cooking dinners for Prince Andrew. You could say these were some of the most important meals I have ever cooked! ■ 49
Recipes courtesy of www.sweetevestrawberry.co.uk
> flavour summer fruits
Summer fruits A good strawberry is like a burst of summer sun – whether you’re picking your own straight from the field, eating strawberry pavlova for afternoon tea, or enjoying punnet after punnet at Wimbledon, strawberries are the true taste of sunshine. Sweet Eve is the result of a 25-year breeding program developed by master berry breeder Peter Vinson. It is an everbearer variety, meaning each plant produces fruit again and again from June to October. Everbearers are not as dependent on daylight as other varieties, making them ideally suited to the UK climate. Because Sweet Eve has been bred in UK it is more suited to the UK climate than other varieties that have been bred overseas.
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Eating strawberries dates back to Henry VIII’s royal court, and we Brits have always been fond of the sweet, aromatic fruit which signals the start of the summer. With such a historic and long established connection with strawberries, it’s hardly surprising that so many of us have fallen into the trap of using the same staple recipes to showcase our English strawberries. Try something different from our selection of simple serving suggestions to truly make the most of this sensational summer fruit...
> flavour summer fruits
Sweet Eve Strawberries Dipped in Melted Chocolate and Toasted Pistachio Nuts Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Ingredients 500g ripe Sweet Eve strawberries 100g icing sugar for sifting 250g dark 70% cacao solid chocolate 100g raw shelled pistachio nuts 200ml whipping cream 50g caster sugar Method 1 Hull the strawberries with a metal spoon. Place them in a bowl and sift the icing sugar over them. Mix well, and set the bowl aside, cling filmed. 2 Break the chocolate into small squares in a heatproof bowl, and place the bowl over simmering, hot water that is in a saucepan over a low heat. The steam from the hot water will rise, and gently melt the chocolate. The water must not boil so hard so that it directly bubbles up to touch the bottom of the bowl containing the chocolate. When the chocolate is all melted, take the saucepan and bowl off the heat, and set aside to cool gently. 3 Using a dry, non-stick frying pan, toast the pistachio nuts very carefully. When they are golden brown, and their aroma is filling the air, remove from the heat. When the nuts have cooled, chop them into small pieces. S 4 Whip the cream till it forms soft peaks with caster sugar. Spoon the cream into a serving bowl. Prick the bottom end of a strawberry with a cocktail stick, dip the strawberry into the melted chocolate, and then roll it into the chopped, toasted pistacchio nuts. Lay each finished strawberry on a serving platter, with the cocktail stick, so that the chocolate can reset. 5 Serve the strawberries with the whipped cream, for dipping into.
Strawberries, melted chocolate and toasted pistachio nuts form a flavour combination made in heaven.
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> flavour summer fruits
Sweet Eve Strawberry Oven-Baked Risotto with Buttermilk Risotto doesn’t have to be laborious – you can make it in the oven. In this recipe, rich buttermilk is used as a more acidic foil to cut through the sweetness of the strawberries. If you can’t find buttermilk, just add a generous squeeze of lemon juice to the same quantity of fresh milk. Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 40 minutes Ingredients 250g of Sweet Eve strawberries 1 litre of buttermilk (or plain milk with the juice of 1 lemon mixed in) 100g soft brown unrefined cane sugar
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Zest of 1 unwaxed lemon 200g of Arborio or Carnaroli risotto rice 1 cinnamon stick 250ml fresh cream, for serving Unsalted butter for the roasting tin Method 1 Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Butter a small roasting tin, or small apple crumble Pyrex dish. 2 Hull the strawberries and cut them into small pieces. Place them in a small bowl and set aside. 3 Combine the buttermilk, the sugar and the lemon zest in a bowl and mix well. 4 Scatter the risotto rice and strawberry pieces evenly across the buttered roasting
tray. Break the cinnamon stick in two pieces and place them, set apart, in the tin. Pour the milky liquid evenly throughout the roasting tin. 5 Bake the risotto in the pre-heated oven for around 30 minutes, or until the rice grains are very soft, and the top of the risotto is crisp and browned. You may need to cover the top of the rice pudding with aluminium foil to stop it from darkening too much. 6 When ready, remove the roasting tin from the oven and set the rice pudding aside for 5 minutes to cool slightly, before serving with double cream.
> flavour summer fruits
Sweet Eve Strawberry Ripple Mascarpone Cheese Parfait
Mascarpone cream cheese from the north of Italy is the perfect ingredient to accompany strawberries
A parfait or semifreddo is just a frozen pudding. It is a very simple way of making a very delicious type of ice-cream but without too much stirring, leaving the cook ample time to focus on other preparations. Mascarpone cream cheese from the north of Italy is the perfect ingredient to accompany strawberries. The crunchy Amaretti biscuits and Amaretto liqueur in the recipe add a delicious bitter almond flavour to cut through the creaminess of the pudding. All ingredients can be found in a good supermarket or delicatessen. Serves 6 Preparation time: 15 minutes Freezing time: 12 hours (or overnight) Ingredients 100g soft Amaretti biscuits Splash of Amaretto liqueur 400. Sweet Eve strawberries 4 fresh free-range eggs, separated 100g caster sugar 250g Mascarpone cream cheese Method 1 Carefully line the base and the sides of a 1 litre plastic lunch box, or plastic Tupperware container with cling film that overlaps down the side. Set aside. 2 Crush the soft Amaretti biscuits all over the base of the lunch box, and drizzle some Amaretto liqueur over them. 3 Hull the strawberries and crush them in a bowl, using a fork. Spoon half of the crushed strawberries all over the Amaretti-covered base of the lunch box. 4 Using an electric whisk, beat the egg yolks with the sugar, till light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites till they form soft peaks. Fold the egg whites into the egg yolk and sugar mix, carefully retaining the air inside the mix. 5 In a roomy bowl, whip the Mascarpone cream cheese until it is softened, then fold the egg mix into the Mascarpone cheese, a little at a time, until it is fully blended. 6 Spoon half the Mascarpone mix over the crushed strawberries in the lunch box, and level the top with a spatula. Spoon the remaining half of the crushed strawberries on top of the Mascarpone
Strawberries, melted chocolate and toasted pistachio nuts form a flavour combination
cream, and then spoon the remaining half of the Mascarpone cream on top, as the final layer. Take a metal skewer, and very gently insert it into the mix, turning it around to create a “ripple� effect of red and white. 7 Bang the Tupperware box gently on the work surface, to evenly distribute the mix. Then cover the parfait mix with the overlapping cling film.
8 Freeze the parfait overnight. Just before serving place the open Tupperware box on the table, and place an upturned serving plate on top of it. Now turn the Tupperware box upside down, gently, so that the frozen parfait and the cling film slide down on the serving plate. Remove the cling film, and slice the parfait into individual portions. Serve.
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The Food
The Pint
The Pillow
The Food
The Pint
The Pillow
Nether Westcote Oxfordshire OX7 6SD | T 01993 833030 | info@thefeatherednestinn.co.uk
www.thefeatherednestinn.co.uk Nether Westcote Oxfordshire OX7 6SD | T 01993 833030 | info@thefeatherednestinn.co.uk
> flavour drops by
Usually when someone realises they need to spice up their life and escape the four walls of an office, they would sign up to an adventurous holiday, do a sky dive or change their wardrobe. When Jamie Sythes and Julie Cure realised they needed to make a change however, they took this food for thought literally and began harvesting their very own chilli farm.
Beginning with a trial crop in their back garden, the husband and wife duo headed down the pub with their first batch of chilli jams and sauces to taste test their hard work with friends and locals. Realising that they were not alone in their love for spice, Jamie and Julie set up properly in October 2010 and are now in the middle of growing their first commercial crop in 4,200 sq ft. The chilli plant is not native to the UK shores and a bit of morning frost is not something these hot plants are used to. “They need a hot, humid environment and a lot of attention,” said Jamie, “The really hot varieties are notoriously tricky to grow, but once you get them going it’s fairly simple because they love our long summer days.”
drops by... flavour
the wiltshire chilli farm
Julie and Jamie are proud of the many varieties on offer in their poly-tunnels, from the well known jalapeño to the more obscure citrus-toned yellow fatalii and the hottest chilli known to man, the Trinidad scorpion. “But it’s about the flavour, not just the heat and we’ve got something in the range to suit most tastes.” If you think you can handle the heat and fancy a bit more spice in your life, then you will find their fiery collection at numerous farmers’ markets including Corsham, Devises, Malmesbury and Swindon.
The Wiltshire Chilli Farm 62 Southbrook Road Melksham Wiltshire SN12 8DT T: 07810 551545 W: www.wiltshirechillies.co.uk www.facebook.com/wiltshirechillies
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> flavour foodies festival
foodies festival Foodies Festival, at Bristol’s Harbourside, will showcase and celebrate the region’s finest food, drink and culinary talent on June 24-26. Visitors will be spoilt for choice with more than 100 exhibitors showcasing local, seasonal produce and specialty food and drink. Food lovers wont know what to try next from small artisan producers, specialist producers and delicious, restaurant quality hot food. Highlights of the Harbourside festival include the Chefs Theatre, where the region’s Michelin star and top chefs will cook their favourite signature dishes live, passing on hints and tips. The line up
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> flavour foodies festival
Matt Follas’ Chocolate Fondant Serves 4 Ingredients 200g 72% cooking chocolate 200g butter 240g caster sugar 4 eggs 4 yolks 200g plain flour Method 1 Butter the inside of 4 ramekins, sprinkle with cocoa powder and place in the freezer for 5 minutes 2 Melt the chocolate and butter in a pan on a very low heat. (Alternatively, you could place the pan in a sink of hot water from the tap. This warms the mixture gently without direct heat.) 3 In a bowl, whip the eggs, yolks and sugar 4 Fold in the flour, and when mixed, fold in the chocolate 5 Pour the mixture into the 4 ramekins 6 Place in a preheated oven at 180˚C for 7-10 minutes Tip: You can tell they’re cooked, when they are soft to touch but are set, not liquid
includes Martin Blunos and Masterchef winner Matt Follas. There will also be a Pop-up Cook School where visitors will enjoy hands-on cooking and tasting sessions, with guidance from top chefs and food experts. There will be a Drinks Masterclass Theatre where visitors are led through the complexities of mixing and shaking, nosing and tasting sessions with gin, rum, speciality beer, wine and cocktails. A Great taste Market featuring stallholders whose products have won a prestigious Great Taste Award in the last three years will be a definite one to look out for, while
at the Restaurant Village visitors can indulge in exotic dishes from around the world, or at the Bar Pagoda tents a glass of bubbly or seasonal cocktail made by expert mixologists will be a must. Children will not miss out on the all the thrills and spills of the festival either, as there will be masterclasses for budding young chefs going on throughout. Harbourside joins a line up of seven Foodies Festivals taking place across the UK this summer and it is a great opportunity to meet the producers and to pick up ingredients and your favourite ‘must-have’ foodie products. ■
Three-day tickets cost £10 and a day ticket costs £8 and can be bought from Seetickets on 0871 230 5573 or online at www.foodiesfestival.com 57
> flavour old swan
old swan Combine the charm of the bygone years, a good measure of modern convenience and a romantic setting and you’re some way to understanding the Old Swan experience... The de Savary family have been hoteliers for more than 30 years and have created some of the world’s best loved destinations, including Skibo Castle in Scotland and Bovey Castle on Dartmoor. Their recently launched Cary Arms in Devon has received rave reviews and awards, not least for its gastro-pub dining and stunning revamp.
appointed with elegant, traditional furnishings and classic de Savary touches throughout. Alternatively, guests can opt for the more contemporary rooms at the adjoining Minster Mill. The younger sister is only 200 years old and the rooms here are smaller, cute and crisply fresh with great views over the magical gardens or river.
They are now adding the newly restored Old Swan & Minster Mill to their portfolio. At the heart of the bucolic village of Old Minster, between Witney and Burford and set in 65 acres of gardens and wildflower meadows, the property lies on the River Windrush in the Cotswolds.
The atmosphere is warm and friendly and the staff welcoming and enthusiastic. Dining is excellent and includes simply cooked gastro-pub dishes made from the very best local produce, as well as the trademark de Savary ‘adult nursery dishes’.
Built 600 years ago, the inn is a myriad of cosy dining rooms and snugs. Log fires burn in huge fireplaces, dazzling fresh flowers are arranged throughout and the smell of beeswax and polish pervades the rooms, instantly making you feel welcome and at home.
In the gardens, guests can enjoy flyfishing, tennis, petanque, badminton and croquet and an amble around the awardwinning gardens and water meadows should not be missed.
The 16 charming guest bedrooms in the Old Swan are all different; beautifully 58
A spa treatment room has been added offering guests world-class treatments from Parisian brand, Yon-Ka. ■
The inn is a myriad of cosy dining rooms and snugs... instantly making you feel at home
> flavour old swan
Old Swan & Minster Mill School Hill Minster Lovell Witney Oxfordshire OX29 0RN 01993 774441 www.oldswanandminstermill.com
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Burford House AA 5 Star Guest Accommodation
99 High Street Burford Oxfordshire
Tel: 01993-823151
Fax: 01993-823240
LOCAL MEAT REARED IN THE COTSWOLDS • We specialise in high quality dry matured meat that is reared on Farm Assured farms in the Cotswolds. • We use all traditional breeds of cattle, sheep and pigs, such as Aberdeen Angus, Hereford and Gloucester Old Spot pigs. • These traditional breeds have a superior quality and taste. • Lamb, Pork and Chicken is Free Range and all the meat comes with full traceability.
Centre Stage Restaurant Open for Lunches - Monday to Saturday Noon until 2.00pm - Dining Room or Courtyard, Weather Permitting and Dinner - Thursday, Friday and Saturday 7.00pm last orders 8.45pm
• Martins Meats has a team of highly skilled award winning Master Butchers who will prepare any specific cuts of meat that you may require.
"The best Sirloin of Beef I have ever tasted".
Marcus Ashenford Michelin Star Chef of 5 North Street Restaurant, Winchcombe Cheltenham
FREE
HOME
June Dinner Offer - 3 Courses for the Price of 2 Sundays Classic Afternoon Tea Noon until 5.00pm www.burfordhouse.co.uk
UNIT 5, ORCHARD INDUSTRIAL EST,
DELIV
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TODDINGTON, CHELTENHAM GL54 5EB OPENING HOURS MON TO FRI 6.00AM 4.30PM - SAT 6.00AM TO 12 NOON ORDERS: 01242 621 493 | FAX ORDERS: 01242 620007 | EMAIL: sales@martinsmeats.com
BUY MEAT ON LINE AT: WWW.MARTINSMEATS.COM
> flavour five alive
Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.
stayin’ five alive Fruit and vegetables are part of a balanced diet and can help us stay healthy. That’s why it so important that we get enough of them. Currently the UK averages two to three portions a day, so we’re falling well short of the benefits they can provide. Five A Day is based on advice from the World Health Organization, which recommends eating a minimum of 400g of fruit and vegetables a day (80g per portion) to lower the risk of serious health problems such as heart disease, strokes, type 2 diabetes and obesity.
So why are they so good for us? They’re a good source of vitamins and minerals including folate, vitamin C and potassium, an excellent source of dietary fibre that helps maintain a healthy gut and prevents constipation and other digestion problems. A diet high in fibre can also reduce your risk of bowel cancer. Fruit and vegetables taste delicious and there are so many varieties you can choose from. They are usually low in fat and calories (as long as you don’t fry them!) so eating them can help maintain
a healthy weight and keep your heart in good nick.
Most of our favourite fruits and vegetables can be enjoyed all-year-round, but they are at their best in season. With so much choice it can be hard to work out when to eat what, however, seasonal plants are naturally stronger and more resistant to disease than those grown out of season in artificial conditions. Fruit and vegetables begin to lose their nutrients as soon as they are picked. Out of season fruits and vegetables may have been harvested six or more weeks before you buy them, so many of the nutrients will be long gone. Buying in season means you get the most from your food. We are coming into summer now with so much to choose from. To get the most benefit out of your Five A Day, your portions should include a mixed variety because different fruits and vegetables contain different combinations of fibre, vitamins, minerals and other nutrients. ■
Cooking for Coco Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.
To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com
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> flavour free range cooking
Bacon and Egg Pie If you’re looking for love, you have to make this pie! On the strength of this pie, my husband proposed to me – it really is that good. It’s perfect for a picnic or weekend lunch.
Ahead of her TV series this month, New Zealand cook Annabel Langbein shares some delicious culinary insights for summer dining…
free range cooking
Here at flavour, Annabel Langbein is a girl after our own heart: “My cooking is not about impressing people with gastronomic acrobatics, turning out complicated plates in the theatre of a restaurant. It’s about having fun and celebrating what nature has so graciously provided for us.” Starting with the freshest seasonal ingredients, Annabel shows how easy it is to cook sensational food in a simple, natural way. She sees cooking as a journey from sourcing and growing produce to creating your own mouthwatering menus. In her latest book, this is all captured against a backdrop of stunning New Zealand landscapes and the natural lifestyle Annabel enjoys at her lakeside cabin in Wanaka. Here Annabel’s shows us how we can all bring the fresh air of New Zealand into our homes with her relaxed, natural and effortless approach to cooking and life… The Free Range Cook will be airing on the Good Food Channel from 8 June, weeknights at 6pm.
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Ingredients 3 sheets (450g) ready-rolled savoury shortcrust pastry 250g streaky bacon, cut into 2cm pieces 2 medium potatoes, peeled, cooked and thinly sliced 3 tbsp soft herbs such as parsley, basil, chives or spring onion tops, chopped 14 eggs 180ml milk 1 tsp salt ground black pepper Method 1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Place a flat baking tray in the oven to heat – the pie will sit on this and the heat will help it to crisp. 2 Cut a piece of baking paper to fit a 40 x 30cm baking dish or roasting pan. It should cover the base and reach about 3–4cm up the sides. Remove the baking paper from the baking dish or roasting pan and lay it flat on your worktop. Dust it with a little flour and lay 2 pastry sheets on top. Join the pastry sheets by pressing them together firmly with a small overlap. Roll out the pastry to cover the paper. Lift the paper with the pastry and lay it into the baking dish or roasting pan (it will reach 3–4cm up the sides). 3 Sprinkle the bacon over the pastry. Top with the sliced potato and sprinkle with the herbs. Break 8 whole eggs over the top. In a mixing bowl, lightly whisk the remaining 6 eggs with the milk, salt and pepper. Pour this evenly over the whole eggs. 4 Roll out the remaining sheet of pastry very thinly and cut it into narrow strips. Arrange the strips in a lattice pattern on top of the pie, trimming off any excess. Place the prepared pie on top of the heated baking tray and bake for 12–15 minutes until the pastry is starting to puff and turn golden. Reduce the heat to 180°C and bake until the pastry is golden and cooked through on the base – about a further 35–40 minutes. 5 Serve warm or at room temperature with a salad and pickles or chutney. It will keep in a covered container in the fridge for 2–3 days.
> flavour free range cooking
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> flavour free range cokking
Lamb, Rosemary and Apple Sausage Rolls The inclusion of apple makes these homemade sausage rolls light and moist. You could add different flavourings to the base mixture of meat, apple, egg and onion – make a Greek version with olives, garlic, rosemary and feta or an Italian option with basil, sun-dried tomatoes and garlic. If you can’t find good-quality sausagemeat, cut open the skins of your favourite sausages and squeeze out the meat.
1 small onion, peeled and coarsely-grated 1 clove garlic, crushed 2 tbsp chopped parsley 1/2 tsp chopped rosemary 3 finely chopped sage leaves 1 tsp fruit chutney or tomato sauce 1 tsp salt ground black pepper pinch chilli flakes 2 sheets of puff pastry
Serves 6 Makes 6 big rolls or 12–18 small rolls
Method 1 Preheat oven to 200°C and line an oven tray with baking paper. 2 Place the mince and sausagemeat in a large bowl with the grated apple, whole egg and egg white, onion, garlic, herbs, chutney or tomato sauce, salt, pepper and chilli. Mix with a large spoon until evenly
Ingredients 400g lean lamb mince 250g coarse pork or beef sausagemeat 1 apple, unpeeled, coarsely-grated 2 eggs (1 separated) 64
incorporated. 3 Place the two pastry sheets on a work surface. Place half the meat mixture on each pastry sheet, forming a mound the length of the pastry about 6cm in from one edge. Roll up the pastry to fully enclose the filling. Cut each roll into 3 slices (or up to 6 slices if you want small sausage rolls), and place on the lined baking tray seam side down. Use a sharp knife to slash 2 or 3 lines across the top of each sausage roll to allow the steam to escape. Make a glaze by mixing the egg yolk with 1 tbsp water. Brush over the pastry. 4 Bake for 30–35 minutes or until golden brown. Check in the last 10 minutes of cooking and if any liquids have come out of the rolls, soak them up with a paper towel so the pastry stays crisp.
> flavour free range cooking
Asparagus, Snow Pea and Scallop Salad Serves 6 Ingredients 24 spears fresh asparagus, tough ends snapped off 3 handfuls (100g) snow peas, trimmed of stringy bits 2 handfuls (50g) rocket leaves flesh of 1 large just-ripe avocado, cut into chunks 24 fresh scallops (or more as extravagance allows) finely-grated zest of ½ lemon or lime salt and ground black pepper a pinch of sugar 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup Citrus Chilli Dressing (see below) Method 1 Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Lightly salt the water then drop in the trimmed asparagus and return to the boil for 3 minutes. Add the snow peas to the pot for the final 20 seconds of the cooking time. Do not overcook. 2 Drain then immediately cover the vegetables with cold water (this helps to capture their vivid green colour and crunchiness). Drain the vegetables thoroughly. Arrange the rocket leaves on a serving platter and place the asparagus and snow peas on top. Top with the avocado chunks. 3 Mix the scallops with the lemon or lime zest and season with salt, pepper and sugar (the sugar helps the scallops caramelise without overcooking). Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based frying pan until it is very hot and cook the scallops for about 30-50 seconds on each side – they should be browned but still soft. Don’t overcook them and don’t overcrowd the pan – you may need to sear them in two batches. 4 Pile scallops on top of salad, drizzle with ¼ cup Citrus Chilli Dressing and toss. Divide between 6 serving plates and serve at once. Citrus Chilli Dressing Place ¼ cup each of orange, lime and lemon juice in a large jar with 1 tsp rice vinegar, 1 tbsp fish sauce, 1 tbsp sugar, ground black pepper and 1 small red chilli, seeds removed and flesh very finely diced. Shake to blend and chill until ready to serve. This dressing is great with seafood, chicken or salad greens and keeps for up to a week in the fridge. Makes ½ cup. 65
> flavour man made fire
As barbeque’s are fired up all over the country, Nick Gregory takes a look at man’s isolated obsession with a naked flame...
man-made fire Although gender issues have largely been eradicated over the years, and none more so than in the kitchen where men and women tend to share the load, there remains one last bastion of tradition where men and women do have defined roles.
Fact: The man of the house oversees the barbecue while the woman of the house has a wellearned break from culinary duties
Fact: The man of the house oversees the barbecue while the woman of the house has a well-earned break from culinary duties. This may be the case on the surface of things, but scratch a little deeper and you will get the true story. Let’s look at what actually happens on the man’s special day. Firstly, he will have placed an order with his other half for burgers, steaks, chicken wings and far too much charcoal, forgetting the mundane yet imperative stuff like salad, vegetables or something for pudding. Luckily she will have remembered and once back from the shops will begin the laborious preparation (after handing the man a cold one of course). While His Nibs gets to grips with the meat on the barbecue the good lady will be organising napkins, plates, bowls and
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cutlery, before nipping out again to report concerns over burning smells wafting indoors. The charred meat is passed over and served out on plates with her salad, bread and sauces. On completion of the meal she clears the table, loads the dishwasher and soaks the more troublesome items as head chef receives the praise and thanks for his cooking efforts from the guests. Not every household works like this I know, but a fair few do, I’ve seen it and been it. What’s perplexing is our obsession with cooking on flames and our sense of pride and achievement realised through a few bits of coal in the open air, ‘cos it is a measurable reality. What goes largely unnoticed however is that the majority of the work is done behind the scenes and the notion that the partner has had a night off is preposterous! That which is deemed less important is so often the opposite, but those ‘boring’ jobs, as always, are what pull us through to the other side unscathed… ■
panasia oriental bar & restaurant
Captivating decor, vibrant cuisine and a warm welcome awaits you at Panasia, so take a whistle stop tour of the Far East without leaving England’s most beautiful city...
On the menu... soup MISO SOUP with Kinugoshi tofu and seaweed (V) TOM YUM KING PRAWN hot and sour soup with Thai herbs
3.95 5.95
starters KING PRAWN TEMPURA in a light batter served with plum sauce
SAKE GYOZA chicken dum plings in sake dipping sauce HANOI ROLL stuffed with fres h pungent herbs in rice paper (V) FISH CAKE blend of white fish with Thai spices fried to a golden patty cake GRILLED LAMB SKEWERS with Panasia’s signature peanut sauce SHIITAKE SPRING ROLL wra pped in filo pastry (V)
6.95 5.50 5.50 5.95 7.50 5.50
mains BASIL CHICKEN breast grille d with fine bean in spicy basil sauce ROASTED DUCK breast with pak choy in Peking sauce CRYING TIGER grilled marinat ed 8oz sirloin steak with Chef’s fruity sauce
MOO KRAWP Thai crispy bell y pork in Chef’s specialty sauce
25% OFF
For flavour readers throughout June and July. Simply quote ‘FLAVOUR’ when booking* *Terms and conditions apply
2 George St, Bath, BA1 2EH Tel: 01225 481001
PANASIA JUMBO KING PRA WN* in thick curry sauce and kaffir lime leaf PLA SAM ROD* ‘fish of the day’ fillet in fruity and spicy sauce WILD MUSHROOMS wok stirfry with aromatic oyster sauce ASPARAGUS wok stir-fry with a thick shiitake sauce ATLANTIC SCALLOPS stir fry with asparagus in black pepper sauce
8.95 10.50 16.95 8.95 16.95 13.95 7.50 6.95 13.50
rice & noodle dishes SINGAPORE CRAB FRIED RIC E PRAWN PAD THAI
8.50 8.50