Flavour May/June 2011

flavour for people who love local food

South West | Issue 39 | May/June 2011

Liquid Gold

Discover the healing power of honey

English Wine Week Award-winning vines on our own soil

Orient Express Mezze has never looked so good

WIN! An overnight stay for two at Dart Marina Hotel & Spa

www.flavourmagazine.com

Award-winning Award winning Tracy Park, ideally situated between Bath & Bristol.

Country Casual dining at its best. www.tracypark.co.uk

Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com Deputy Editor: Faye Allen Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com

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Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Alastair McClare, Account Manager Email: ali@flavourmagazine.com

welcome

Photography: Jeni Meade, Eamonn McCabe, James Walker Contributors: Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nick Gregory, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Peter Swanepoel, Mitch Tonks Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

Welcome to the May issue of flavour!

For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com

There’s every chance it’s connected to the weather, but don’t you find the calendar fills up with increasing momentum as the year goes on? Weddings, holidays and garden parties will all need to be worked into the agenda, not to mention the sprinkling of impromptu get-togethers brought on by lighter evenings. So in the interests of planning ahead, on PAGE 10 we’ve included a round-up of the foodie festivals that are definitely worth making a space in the diary for.

For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication.

The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

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For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions.

All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

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contents 8 In Season Tom Bowles and Peter Swanpoel cook up the best of the season’s produce 12 English Wine Week Award-winning vines on our own soil 25 Orient Express Mezze has never looked so good

This month also sees the annual celebration of English Wine Week (PAGE 12). Now I’m the first to champion great British produce at any given opportunity, but I must confess to being a bit of a Francophile when it comes to my tipple of choice. That was until I started looking into some of the talented winemakers on our very own doorsteps.

One in particular even coaxed Dragon Den’s Duncan Bannatyne to invest in his Devonshire vineyard – no mean feat for anyone!

We’ve also been feeling quite inspired

by Silvena Rowe’s new cookbook Orient Express – mezze has never looked so good. Turn to PAGE 25 for some mouthwatering recipes that promise to please the eye as well as the palate.

We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed making it.

56 Liquid Gold Discover the healing power of honey 41 WIN! An overnight stay for two at Dart Marina Hotel & Spa

Happy Eating!

Holly Aurelius-Haddock

> flavour news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month Great British Menu Lucknam Park is delighted to announce that Executive Chef Hywel Jones is through to the Welsh regional heat of the popular BBC2 series Great British Menu. The theme for this year’s series is ‘cooking for the people’, which will culminate in the ultimate street party: The People’s Banquet, a party initiative run by The Eden Project.

Judges of the day include Oliver Peyton, Prue Leith and Matthew Fort and we’re sure that Hywel’s menu of Cawl (a traditional Welsh dish), followed by Cardigan Bay lobster with Wye Valley asparagus and Brecon venison Wellington, finished with a rhubarb and strawberry trifle tart, won’t fail to disappoint!

01225 742777 www.lucknampark.co.uk

All about Allium…

Established in 2004 by husbandand-wife team James and Erica Graham, Fairford’s Restaurant Allium has become a nationally renowned destination, boasting multiple awards and plaudits from the UK’s leading guides and critics. Combining an understanding of classic food heritage with the latest culinary techniques, and possessing an unmatched passion for the finest local produce, Restaurant Allium is working to redefine the very meaning of British cuisine.

Allium take control of the food chain, working with local suppliers and even hunting and foraging for their own produce. They butcher everything in-house, utilising classic preserving techniques to get the most from every ingredient. They even bake their own bread daily for service in the restaurant and for retail in their own nearby Deli.

For those who crave the restaurant experience at home or for a special occasion, Allium Event Catering turns

their unique approach to British cuisine into a genuinely moveable feast.

01285 712200 www.alliumfood.co.uk

100,000 litres the amount of water it takes to produce 1kg of beef

If that statistic comes as a surprise to you, then The Little Book of Shocking Food Facts may be a very interesting read.

Combining thought provoking imagery with truly alarming information, this highly innovative handbook is an essential read for all you need to know about food production and consumption today.

The Little Book of Shocking Food Facts Craig Holden Feinberg and Dale Petersen Published by Fiell, RRP £8.95 4

> flavour news

new for Foodworks Later this month, the state-of-theart Foodworks Cookery School is launching a new outside cooking and demo area. With the help of professional BBQ expert Ben Bartlett, Foodworks will be teaching vital culinary skills in a fun and relaxed environment. Learn how to grill your steak properly then sit back and unwind with a glass of wine in beautiful Cotswolds surroundings.

01242 870538 www.foodworkscookeryschool.co.uk

Celebrate Summer The Horn of Plenty is one of Devon’s best small country house hotels.

Located near Tavistock on the edge of Dartmoor the hotel is famous for its outstanding food, wonderful views, topclass service and elegant surroundings.

Here’s a taste of their upcoming summer events…

Stay in May Receive £25 off all remaining rooms in May! Prices range from £50 per person per night bed and breakfast OR

from £85 per person dinner, bed and breakfast. Based on two people sharing, excludes bank holidays and special events. New bookings only.

Foodies’ Paradise Take advantage of the new and delicious tasting menu. Seven courses for just £55!

Available Tuesday – Saturday throughout May and June.

INTERACTIVE COOKING The Devilled Egg School in Clifton is proud to announce the launch of their new website which enables people to watch online the informative and fun cookery lessons from the comfort of their own home. If you have any reservations about taking part in a cookery course or feel your skills may not be up to par, then viewing what you will be letting yourself in for is a great way to get your confidence gathered before you attend the session.

Barbora’s enthusiasm, excitement and passion can be seen in every dish she makes. Her relaxed style of teaching means that you’ll be able to recreate dishes in your own kitchen with ease and simplicity. Barbora says: “Most people I know want to be better at cooking. Whether it stems from the passion of a genuine gourmet or simply from the financial advantages of homemade curry, most of us share a desire to improve the level and range of our cooking abilities.” With Barbora’s help, now you can.

01179 732823 www.thedevilledegg.com

01822 832528 www.thehornofplenty.co.uk

Congratulations... to Jane Turner from Bath who wins a selection of coffee goodies from Taylors of Harrogate!

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> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

fab foodie reads Secrets of Scandinavian Cooking: Scandilicious Signe Johansen Pick Saltyard Books, £20

of the Month!

Join the trend with a new way of cooking, Scandinavianstyle. Author Signe Johansen aims to banish the clichés associated with Nordic fare such as Danish pastries, herrings and meatballs and introduces the reader to mouthwatering recipes for healthy breakfasts, lazy brunches, light lunches and delectable dinners.

Try your hand at something traditional such as homemade gravlax to something a bit more unexpected, such as roast allspice chicken and macaroni cheese with a Scandilicious twist. Signe Johansen makes it clear that Scandinavian cooking is all about simple preparation which should be stress-free and easy, not least because this lends itself well to the Scandinavian love of impromptu get-togethers, usually involving picnics, boozy brunches and cake. Each recipe is accompanied by gorgeous photography and lends itself perfectly to a celebration of the pleasure of sharing good food with friends around the kitchen table.

The Ginger Pig Meat Book Tim Wilson & Fran Warde Mitchell Beazley, £25

The Ginger Pig Meat Book is the longawaited book from the butchers that every discerning foodie turns to. The Ginger Pig is a new meat manual for a new generation of domestic and inquisitive cooks, who want to know everything there is to know about buying, cooking and preparing meat. More than 100 recipes are arranged by seasons so you can learn what is best to buy and when.

Advice on butchering techniques and the best cuts is supplied by farmer and proprietor, Tim Wilson.

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Rosemary Shrager’s Absolutely Foolproof Classic Home Cooking Rosemary Shrager Hamlyn, £18.99

This book does exactly what it says on the tin. Rosemary Shrager’s foolproof book is the next best thing to having her by your side in the kitchen. Rosemary believes that once a few basic techniques are mastered, anyone can cook any dish.

Every chapter is introduced with more than 20 recipes and is illustrated in stepby-step photographic detail. Once you have mastered her basic techniques then you are on your way to being able to prepare the 250 classic recipes that follow.

Notes from my Kitchen Table Gwyneth Paltrow Boxtree, £20

It seems that this Hollywood actress is adding the title of author to her immaculate portfolio, which includes style icon and fitness guru. Her new cookbook shows a different side to this, otherwise, quite private star. You will find a clear passion for food in over 150 recipes, which are both practical and original, and for those that enjoy the occasional indulgence, you will find plenty of ideas.

Inspired by memories of cooking with her father, it is a truly personal book that celebrates cooking with – and for – the ones you love.

Q 2 UO T F TE IC O FOKE R O T 1 D S IE S2 41

Foodies Festival HARBOURSIDE, BRISTOL June 24, 25 & 26

IN MICHEL S EF STAR CH G COOKIN LIVE ● ● ● ● ●

Michelin chefs cooking live Eat at top restaurants Try tutored tastings Exclusive shopping Indulge in fine food and drink

Celebrate fine food & drink at

Foodies Festival Bristol www.foodiesfestival.com 0871 230 5573

> flavour in season

>Elderflower Towards the end of May the elder tree starts to blossom yielding its elderberries as well as the extremely sought-after creamy yellow flowers. Elder trees are fairly widespread around Britain so with a bit of luck you should be able to find some. The flowers are best used as a flavouring and are most commonly used to make summer cordials as well as champagne for those looking for a bit more of a kick. The flowers should never be eaten raw, as, like elderberries, they are mildly poisonous so it’s well advised to use them only in cooking! Elderflowers are in season from late May all the way through to July in the typically warmer months so be sure to stockpile your elderflower cordials. You don’t have long to savour this flower!

Elderflower Jelly Makes 4-6 In a large pan, bring to the boil 1ltr of water and 250g of castor sugar. When the stock is boiling, remove from the heat and add 20 elderflowers and the juice of 2 lemons, leave to cool and infuse for 3-4 hours then strain through a fine sieve. Soak 10 leaves of gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes and add to the elderflower stock.

Pour into ramekins and place in the fridge until set. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

At their best >Asparagus Asparagus with passion fruit emulsion Makes 4 Peel the stems of 3 bunches of asparagus and cook in boiling, salted water for 1 minute until tender.

Remove from the pan and refresh in ice water. Scoop out the seeds from 3 passion fruits and place in a small saucepan with 15g sugar, 10g butter and 20ml olive oil and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and place into a food processor and pulse on a high heat. Strain the seeds off and drizzle over the chilled asparagus for a tasty summer treat.

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The seasonal vegetable that carries a very high profile arrives on our plates from late April to early May. It may be because of the relatively short season running from May to June that makes this plant so popular but it is hard to deny the unique flavour that it has too. To add to that, the fact that British-grown asparagus, in my completely unbiased opinion, is by far the finest in the world which makes it easy to see why such excitement surrounds it.

When picking out asparagus look for firm stalks but tender tips with good, deep colour. It is not a vegetable that stores well so it’s best to eat on the day of purchase or as close after as possible. A good tip is to store it with a damp tea towel around the stems in the fridge.

> flavour in season

>Chicory This leafy vegetable is usually available from January through to March. It starts its life in the soil like many of its counterparts but is then transferred to sand and forced in a dark shed, similar to the way rhubarb is produced which gives it an anaemic shade of white and yellow.

Chicory seems to be an increasingly popular ingredient on menus and it’s not hard top see why. Its tightly-packed, bullet-like shape lends itself nicely to little, well-presented salad dishes often with something fruity or sweet or simply fresh with other crudities. For the freshest of chicory look for firm, crisp leaves. Try to avoid plants with a slightly darker shade of green at the tip as these may be piercingly bitter.

Braised Chicory Makes 4 Cut 4 chicory into halves and sprinkle a small amount of salt onto them. Heat 200ml of water, 50g of unsalted butter, 20g of sugar, 1 crushed garlic clove and a sprig of thyme in a medium pan. When the liquid is boiling, turn the heat down to a simmer and drop in the chicory.

Cook on a medium heat for a further 10 minutes until all the liquid has evaporated and serve with wood pigeon and toasted walnuts.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes.

Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Peter Swanepoel from Cavendish Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

right now >Samphire Samphire is notably a sea vegetable that grows on shorelines and salty mud flats abundantly. It has a sharp, crisp, salty flavour that is often wonderfully partnered with fish. It’s not always readily sourced but should be available from good fishmongers. To prepare just wash thoroughly and then you can boil, steam or stir-fry it. It is also great in salads but don’t add much salt to the dish as the Samphire does this for you.

Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. www.hartley-farm.co.uk

Samphire and Cucumber salad Makes 4 Peel and remove the seeds of 2 cucumbers, finely chop and add to a large mixing bowl. Pick 250g of samphire and add to the cucumber. Finely chop 1 red onion, 1 clove of garlic and a sprig of mint and add to the mix. Bind the salad with 2 tbsp crème fraiche, 1 tbsp Greek yogurt and the zest and juice of 1 lemon. Season to taste and serve with grilled mackerel.

With two AA rosettes, The Cavendish Restaurant and Bar is a hidden gem in the heart of Bath serving the best of modern British cuisine. www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk

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r e m m u S food festivals Time to get planning with our roundup of the foodie festivals not to be missed this summer!

Cheltenham Food and Drink Festival, Montpellier Gardens (17-19 June) A three-day wine and food extravaganza offering visitors the chance to taste, discover and enjoy fine foods, wines and spirits. www.garden-events.com

Dorset Seafood Festival, Weymouth (9-10 July) The Dorset Seafood Festival 2011 is one of the largest in the UK. Combining celebrity demonstrations with 100 stalls selling a wide range of seafood dishes, you are sure to have a great day out. www.dorsetseafood.co.uk

Foodies Festival Bristol Harbourside (24-26 June) The Hampshire Food Festival, Hampshire (1-31 July)

The country’s biggest rural festival returns over the spring half term to bring you a long weekend of never-ending entertainment. A real treat for everyone, from food lovers to families to farmers and fashionistas!

Foodies Festival is a celebration of the region’s finest food, drink and culinary talent. Highlights include a chefs theatre where the region’s top chefs will cook their signature dishes live, passing on hints and tips along the way. For the children, there is a masterclass for budding chefs and for the wine connoisseur, there is a drinks theatre. For a run down of everything that is taking place on the day visit online.

www.bathandwest.com

www.foodiesfestival.com

www.hampshirefare.co.uk

The Royal Bath and West Show, Shepton Mallet (1-4 June)

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July is jam-packed with over 80 delicious events held in celebration of the fantastic food and drink grown, reared and produced in Hampshire. There is so much to do from farm tours and walks to cookery and producer workshops and much more.

> flavour summer food festivals

The Henley Festival, London (6-10 July) Get involved in this black-tie event on the banks of the Thames. Father-andson team Albert and Michel Roux Jr will be cooking three courses for £110 from their ‘Riverside Restaurant’ tent, while Heston Blumenthal will bring his Hinds Head pub to Henley. Tom Jones, Jools Holland, and Alexandra Burke will also perform from a floating stage on the river. Tickets start from £35. www.henley-festival.co.uk

Soil Association Organic Food Festival, Bristol (3-4 September) With more than 150 exhibitors around the harbourside, this is the biggest organic festival in Europe. Enjoy quality organic produce, very cute and friendly livestock, celebrity chef demos, gorgeous health and beauty products as well as great music and of course, loads of fantastic street food to enjoy when you are there.

Taste of London, Regent’s Park (16-19 June) Taste of London is the UK’s largest openair food and drink festival. More than 40 establishments are confirmed as well as chefs including Gary Rhodes, Michel Roux Jr and Silvena Rowe. Tickets cost from £22 when booked in advance. www.tastefestivals.com

www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk

The Great British Beer Festival, Earls Court (2-6 August) Britain’s biggest beer festival, once again brings together a wide range of real ales, ciders, perries and international beers. gbbf.camra.org.uk

The Big Feastival Clapham Common (1-3 July)

Harvest at Jimmy’s, Ipswich (9-12 September)

The third annual Feast of Dorset, an event that promotes sustainability in rural communities, promises a weekend of food and entertainment with more than 100 exhibits and displays. Indulge in some of the West Country’s finest produce, from cheese and chocolate to wines and teas, watch cookery demonstrations by celebrity chefs, or taste meat from the barbecue ‘pit roast’. Tickets are on sale from 1 May.

The Big Feastival is a new event on the festival calendar combining mouthwatering food from some of the country’s top chefs with a top drawer selection of the finest live music acts around. The first festival of its kind, Feastival is all about the best things in life – friends, families, great food and drink and amazing live music. Help raise funds for the The Prince’s Trust and The Jamie Oliver Foundation to help change the lives of disadvantaged young people. Food is included in the standard ticket price and best of all kids can go free.

The brainchild of ex-Blur-bassistturned-cheesemaker Alex James and farmer-and-TV-presenter Jimmy Doherty, Harvest boasts performances by singer Eliza Doolittle and DJ Jo Whiley as well as cookery demos

by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Viajante’s Nuno Mendes. Browse the farmers’ market, or indulge yourself at Mark Hix’s Champagne and seafood bar. Luxury yurts with butler service are available for those who want to see out the summer in style.

www.feastofdorset.com

www.bigfeastival.co.uk

www.harvestatjimmys.com

Feast of Dorset (17-18 September)

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English

wine

> flavour english wine week

Celebrate English Wine Week with our pick of the region’s finest wine producers…

pebblebed vineyards More than a few corks were popped as a Devonbased vineyard walked away victorious after a grilling from the dragons on the hit BBC series.

We find out the cause of the celebrations…

For most of us, spending a few moments in the company of the likes of Peter Jones, Duncan Bannatyne, Deborah Meaden, Theo Paphitis and James Caan – aka the Dragons from BBC 2’s Dragon’s Den – would send shivers down our spine, and so it was for Pebblebed Vineyard’s Geoff Bowen. But, after a nervous start, Geoff managed to secure a £60,000 investment from the meanest Scot of them all – Duncan Bannatyne – in a community vineyard idea that was endorsed on national television.

Geoff, a former geologist and environmental consultant, set up

Pebblebed Vineyards in 2002 when he turned a hobby into a career move by planting three acres of land near Exeter in Devon for wine production and now has more than 25 to work on.

The wines are expertly produced for Geoff by award-winning winemaker Juliet White, at Exe Valley Wines’ state-of-the-art winery on Juliet and Roger White’s own Yearlstone wine estate.

Hard work it may be for a one-man band, but for Geoff it’s all about the rewards: “Producing something that people enjoy in a sociable way gives me a lot of pleasure,” he says. “I enjoy my largely solitary days working in the vineyard, which contrast nicely with evenings often serving wine and chatting to people in our Topsham Wine Cellar Bar.” He is proud of his product too, of which he has a white, a sparkling white and a rose, but it’s the fizz where Geoff sees a massive change in market trends, due to the English climate being ideally suited to growing sparkling wines. “Here in the West Country a lot of people are now choosing our fizz over the Moëts or Pol Rogers. We can match on quality and more importantly it’s a local product, with all the

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benefits to the local economy and environment.”

“In fact, we have the French worried too,” he continues. “I think they are increasingly concerned that the English will start buying local, potentially damaging their valuable Champagne trade. They want in on this future market.”

With 25 acres of established vineyards, Geoff has his sights set on building his own winery over the summer months. Although things are running smoothly, the transition hasn’t been as easy as he would

> flavour english wine week

“

Here in the West Country a lot of people are now choosing our fizz over the Moëts or Pol Rogers.

We can match on quality and more importantly, it’s a local product

”

have hoped for: “I was increasingly finding that the strict European Union Organic Standards were actually restricting conservation work on the farm. The organic badge is less important to me than ensuring we manage the vineyards as naturally as possible.”

Despite the heavy workload and the barriers presented before him, Geoff has really made a go of Pebblebed, and was delighted with Duncan Bannatyne’s support for his new venture. The project is for a new area of vineyard which people can join in over a ten-year period – seeing the

vines planted and a few years later providing grapes and wine.

“Over the years we have had tremendous support from friends and our local community – more than 200 people came to help with the harvest last year.”

For many of us owning our own vineyard would seem like a dream come true and for Geoff it is no different. “At least twice a day I wonder what I am doing and reflect on my old professional life. But, by the end of the day (and after a half a glass of wine), it all changes and I wouldn’t change it for the world –

I must say though for anybody else planning to give up the day job – it’s very long hours for little financial reward – so you have to want to do it with a very strong passion!” Hats off to Geoff for having the courage to follow his dream, and just maybe he will become a major player in adding fire to the English wine revolution. The Dragon may see a return too.

Pebblebed Wine Cellar, Ferry Road, Topsham, Devon EX3 0JJ www.pebblebed.co.uk 13

> flavour english wine week

English

wine

the devon wine school Devon wine school owner Alastair Peebles is one of only 280 Masters of Wine in the world. His wife and joint owner Carol Peebles is an experienced cook who is passionate about local food cooked well on the farmhouse AGA. Excellent credentials for an inspirational and welcoming stay, you might agree.

The Devon Wine School, 10 miles from Exeter, hosts a whole range

“

Excellent credentials for an inspirational and welcoming stay

”

of wine tastings and lunches from beginners to budding Masters of Wine. They are Approved

Programme Providers for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Intermediate and Advanced Level Courses, offering in-house and distance learning and speciallytailored external courses for pubs, restaurants and hotels.

The 17th-century farmhouse set in three acres offers complete tranquillity. The school has five elegant and beautifully-furnished double bedrooms. With a coveted VisitEngland’s 5 Star Gold Award and beautiful views over the garden, you will feel completely at home.

Alastair and Carol Peebles, The Devon Wine School, Redyeates Farm, Cheriton Fitzpaine, Crediton, Devon EX17 4HG 01363 866742 www.devonwineschool.co.uk

LYME BAY WINERY Lyme Bay Winery Country Wines are inspired by wines made from hedgerow fruits and flowers. The award-winning range includes both lighter, drier wines with contemporary appeal and old fashioned, sweeter berry-rich varieties too. The delicious Plum wine was awarded a Gold Star in the Great Taste Awards 2010 with the judges’ comments including: “A good plum nose and a good smooth taste. Would go nicely with pudding and some cheese.”

The Elderflower is dry, with old fashioned floral flavours – a perfect picnic, lunchtime wine or aperitif. A new wine for summer 2011 is Quince; a deliciously refreshing off-dry wine with aromatic flavours of pear and apple. A perfect partner to chilled apple pie with Devon clotted cream!

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Flavour Reader offer Receive a 10% discount when ordering online with promotion code FLAVOUR0001 or take a copy of the flavour May 2011 issue into the winery shop.

The winery is also very proud to launch its Gooseberry Sparkling wine which has taken three years to produce, using the traditional inbottle Champagne method and aged in oak to produce a complex and balanced wine – truly delicious.

The Lyme Bay Winery, Shute, Axminster, Devon EX13 7PW 01297 551 355 www.lymebaywinery.co.uk

> flavour english wine week

Growing Recognition

“

Kenton’s Bacchus grape is thriving in the climate of the Exe Estuary, resulting in a wine with a soft floral palate and plenty of fresh, ripe fruit

”

plenty of fresh, ripe fruit (similar to a Loire Sancerre in style).

Flavour readers can taste the best of the West in English Wine Week 28th May to the 4th June at Great Western Wine’s shop in Bath, culminating in a free tasting on Saturday 4th June (12-4pm), where you’ll have the opportunity to meet Matthew Bernstein, owner and winemaker at Kenton Vineyards.

For more information hop online to www.greatwesternwine.co.uk/ events

Great Western Wine Shop Wells Road Bath BA2 3AP

wine

increasing global temperatures transform the plains of Southern England into our very own Champagne, Loire and Alsace region equivalents.

Two of the very best local producers are Camel Valley from the sundrenched hills of Bodmin, Cornwall, and Kenton Estate, whose vines have ideal ‘terroir’ on the West side of Devon’s beautiful Exe Estuary, nestling into the foothills of the Haldon Hills.

Indeed, Camel Valley’s delicious sparkling Vintage Brut is a Gold Medal winner at the International Wine Challenge Awards, where it outscored over 250 Champagnes in blind tasting! Kenton’s Bacchus grape is also thriving in the climate of the Exe Estuary, resulting in a wine with a soft floral palate and

English

One of the wine industry’s major assets is its ability to unite so many different nations under one roof. But lets not forget we are Brits, and we do love to celebrate our independence every once in a while, and in recent years we have therefore transformed from a nation of wine importers into a nation of very promising wine producers.

Though it is still widely thought that the vine was introduced by the Romans and that winemaking was extremely popular amongst the monks of Norman Britain, winemaking for general sale has only really flourished on home soils over the last 50 years. A very nice chap called Ray Barrington Brock first introduced Muller-Thurgau and Seyval Blanc grapes to the UK following extensive research in the 1950s and from this point on English Winemaking has gone from strength to strength.

Especially popular today are wines made from the traditional Champagne grapes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with bottle fermented sparkling wines becoming a real growth industry.

And the future looks bright as

01225 322814 www.greatwesternwine.co.uk 15

English

wine

> flavour english wine week

THREE CHOIRS VINEYARD Three Choirs Vineyard is proud to be one of the oldest vineyards in the UK, supported by an array of prestigious awards and accolades including the first gold medal won by an English vineyard at Vinexpo in 1991.

There are many reasons why Three Choirs deserves its faultless reputation. The vines are planted on sandy, free draining soil, which gives excellent fruit characteristics in the wines, and the team behind the vineyard is at the forefront of experimenting with new grape varieties to see what will grow well within the marginal climate.

Spend a day being shown around on a guided tour and enjoy an afternoon of tasting from their inspiring and delicious collection including, red, white, rose and sparkling. Wanting to make your experience the most relaxed and pleasurable it can be, Three Choirs offer accommodation with 11 well-equipped and comfortable bedrooms to choose from, as well as a two AA Rosette restaurant with magnificent views across the vineyards.

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Three Choirs has cemented its reputation as one of Gloucestershire’s main attractions, offering a unique experience both for wine enthusiasts, and those just looking for a great day out.

Alternatively, you can purchase a gift voucher from their website and create a perfect present for someone.

Three Choirs Vineyard, Newent, Gloucestershire GL18 1LS T 01531 890223 www.three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk

new for 2011!

Join the team for a cookery demonstration, which allows experienced cooks to learn new skills and practice them at home. They cover all aspects of cooking from meat and fish preparation to the making and decorating of cakes.

> flavour english wine week

AvonLeigh Organics and Quoins Organic Vineyard Working in traditional methods, Quoins Organic Vineyard places great emphasis on the importance of nature and the seasons to impart exceptional character and flavour in every bottle of wine produced.

Avonleigh Organic is another beautiful vineyard and orchard that works to the same, traditional values. Both vineyards have been developed under Soil Association standards and are positioned on the southern edge of the Cotswolds, making this picturesque spot an ideal location for harvesting the perfect English wines.

Both vineyards produce awardwinning wines from the UK Vineyards Association wine of the year competition. They welcome the public to visit and taste the wines throughout the summer. Avonleigh is open every Saturday from 11am5pm and Quoins is open every Sunday from noon till 5pm.

tasting notes From Avonleigh Organics…

Try the silver award-winning 2009 rosé, a fresh, easy-going drink with a hint of strawberry. For some summer fun, take in the 2008 Sparkling wine made from a blend of traditional grapes. It has been left to mature in the bottle for 18 months and contains a fresh and elegant flavour.

From Quoins Organic Vineyard…

Try the dry, crisp white wine Madeleine Angevine, a perfect accompaniment to fish, or the Rondo, a new grape variety which produces an intense dark red high in natural alcohols.

Avonleigh Organic Vineyard & Orchard, Leigh Road, Bradford on Avon BA15 2RD

Quoins Vineyard Bradford on Avon BA1 7LZ 07835 265082 www.quoinsvineyard.co.uk

07503 999906 www.avonleighorganics.co.uk

red & white

Look out for Red & White, opening in Bath soon!

Red & White is one of the leading sources of quality wine in the South West.

This boutique wine shop will offer Bath a brilliant selection of wines.

Despite jumping on planes and in cars, one of the best regions for wine making was right on their doorstep, nestled on the banks of the River Dart near Totnes.

Sharpham Vineyard have a perfectly situated vineyard which runs steeply down to the Dart allowing vines to ripen and rainfall to run off quickly.

Ripe grapes and a talented wine making team transform the golden sweet juice into a stunning array of quality wines.

Red & White will soon be offering a fine collection of Sharpham’s Estate in their shop throughout English Wine Week, starting with a free tutored tasting at 12.30 on Saturday 28th May. Red & White Wines Ltd 99 Fore Street Kingsbridge Devon TQ7 1AB

wine

Bath Shop Opening!

on winery doors around Europe all in the hope of finding those incredible wine makers that set the standards for their region – the individuals with handcrafted wines which reflect not only the ‘terroir’ of their region but also their own personality.

English

When Red & White opened a shop in Kingsbridge last year, they did it with the ambition of being a thoroughly independent wine store full of stunning wines carefully selected by their Master of Wine, Liam Steevenson from some of the world’s most brilliant small producers. They went knocking

01548 853898 www.red-white.co.uk 17

> flavour alex aitken

alex aitken One of the New Forest’s most renowned chefs, Alex Aitken, has a new venture in a stunning waterside restaurant in Christchurch. This month Rebecca Gooch catches up with him to talk seafaring and souffles….

From deckhand to one of Gordon Ramsay’s favourite chefs – it’s been quite a journey for former trawlerman Alex Aitken.

Even more remarkably, his transition from man of the sea to Michelin-starred master of the stove came without a single cookery lesson, never mind darkening the doorway of any catering college.

He makes it sound so simple: “I bought some chef’s whites and a couple of cook books,” he says, explaining how he only began cooking at the restaurant he opened with his wife in 1983 because she was eight-and-a-half months pregnant.

“So I went into the kitchen!”

Twelve years later he got his Michelin star, and the accolades mounted – including Gordon Ramsay naming Alex’s restaurant, Le Poussin, one of his top 11 favourite places to eat.

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Now, after stepping down as director of cuisine at the £30 million Lyndhurst country house hotel Lime Wood, and selling his share of the business, he’s found stunning new moorings at The Jetty, formerly the Gary Rhodes-fronted restaurant at the Christchurch Harbour Hotel, overlooking Mudeford quay.

Sitting on the terrace, with a side order of sunshine, you could kid yourself you’re in the Riviera, or Long Island. “I was looking for a new venture, and I loved the location – who wouldn’t?” he beams. The waterside setting also fits perfectly with his love of the sea, which began when he took to the water as a 15-year-old deckhand, fishing for langoustines, haddock and herring in Scotland.

“When I finished on the trawler, I started off as a waiter, rising through the ranks to restaurant manager. Then the restaurant

> flavour alex aitken

was sold and I was made redundant. A year later my wife Caroline and I opened Le Poussin in Brockenhurst.”

Alex’s history may be acclaimed – having cooked for the likes of Albert Roux and the Queen – or rather Dame Helen Mirren - but he’s always been slightly ahead of the crowd. As well as being completely self-taught, this is the chap who was foraging in the hedgerows and preaching the gospel of sustainability and seasonal ingredients when Hugh and Jamie were knee-high to a Neff cooker.

Unsurprisingly for the man named by The Times as “the most regional chef in England”, his menu at The Jetty majors on the local ingredients he has always championed, and he is an enthusiastic participant in the Christchurch Food and Wine Festival, which takes place May 6-13.

“I love all local produce. I’m biased, but Caroline produces some amazing beef that is reared on barley soaked in ale, and the wild mushrooms of the New Forest are my favourite, especially in a risotto with our own hens’ eggs to finish it off.”

One of his signature dishes for over 25 years is his twice-baked cheese soufflé .

“The biggest tip is not to over-mix the egg white,” he advises. “If you do, you cause the air to escape. Also, every time you lift out a spoonful of the mix you in fact mix the egg white more.”

He reckons his regulars would lynch him if he ever thought of taking his souffle off the menu. Having tasted it, I’d hand them the rope – it is beyond delicious. “My aim is to cook food that people want to eat,

not pandering to a chef searching for accolades,” he says of his ethos at the Jetty. “If accolades come however, we will embrace them!” ■

Alex’s Twice Baked Cheese Soufflé Makes between 10-13 soufflés

The Jetty 95 Mudeford Christchurch Dorset BH23 3NT www.thejetty.co.uk

Heat 500ml milk, 1 small onion, 2 bay leaves and 3 cloves. Allow to infuse then remove the onion bay leaf and cloves.

Melt 50g butter but do not colour, add 50g flour, heat and make a roux, gradually add the hot flavoured milk cook to a thick creamy white sauce, season with salt and pepper. Allow to cool, then add 6 egg yolks and beat until the mixture is smooth.

Whisk the remaining egg whites with a pinch of salt so that they are semi stiff.

Gently fold in whites into the creamy white sauce and egg yolk mix taking care not to over mix and lose the air.

Spoon the mixture into the ramekins, filling them to the brim. Place into a water bath and cook in the oven on 150°C for 30 minutes. Carefully remove from the oven and allow to cool.

To finish the soufflés, turn out of the ramekin into an ovenproof bowl, season and pour whipping cream over the top until the cream is 1cm up the side of the souffle. Sprinkle liberally with Dorset cheddar and cook at 160°C for a further 15-20 minutes.

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> flavour the apple tree

the apple tree Situated between Pilton and Glastonbury on the A361, The Apple Tree Inn is a treat of a place that might require a designated driver, but one that for Nick Gregory, delivers on hospitality, charm and quality.

Having worked in a string of prestigious restaurants before taking the helm of The Wheatsheaf in Combe Hay, chef proprietor Lee Evans brings with him a good deal of know-how and expertise in the kitchen, but along with wife and fellow chef Ally, has recently ventured into running his own place.

Décor wise, Lee and Ally have been busy taking up the carpets to expose the delightful flagstone flooring, while the furniture is simple, practical and understated. There is nothing pretentious or glorified on show, a pleasant change from the same old gastro-formula that seems to have become the norm over the past few years.

The Apple Tree Inn West Pennard Glastonbury Somerset BA6 8ND www.appletreeglastonbury.co.uk 20

Most importantly, however, is the standard of the food. Michelin-trained Lee prides himself on using the best quality local produce, taking great care in designing menus around the seasons, and cooking simply to retain the natural flavour and quality of the product. To start I enjoyed the buttered asparagus, poached hen’s egg, Pilton pig salami and chorizo (£6.95), while my partner drew the long straw and devoured the seared Lulworth Bay scallops, boudin noir and crushed peas (£8.95). My choice was excellent, my partner’s exceptional.

I was soon back in the driving seat and had the plum pick of the mains, with the 10oz

ribeye of Hereford beef, the seemingly obligatory triple cooked chips and handpicked wild garlic butter (£19.95) ticking all the boxes and then some more for good measure. The beef was perfectly cooked and tasted all the better for the investment in rearing it properly. My partner’s roast rump of lamb, new season asparagus and Niçoise jus (£14.95) was everything she expected and we shared a side dish of creamy cauliflower cheese that complimented the meal perfectly.

We probably didn’t need to follow up with a couple of puddings, but on discovering that pastry chef Ally makes all desserts and sweet treats in the early hours, we were unable to resist. I chose a delicious raspberry and basil compote, crème brûlée and shortbread biscuit (£5.50) and my partner a dark chocolate fondant with lemon curd ice cream (£6.50). Both were fantastic and the fondant oozed in all the right places.

Just a few weeks after opening The Apple Tree is clearly off to a strong start. It may be a short drive away, but with two guestrooms all set up and with a few more in development, diners have the perfect excuse to make a weekend of it. The food will more than exceed your expectations and the hospitality is served by the bucketload. ■

> flavour xxxxxxx

Michelin-trained Lee prides himself on using the best quality local produce, cooking simply to retain the natural flavour and quality of the product

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Cricklade House, Common Hill, Cricklade, Wiltshire, SN6 6HA T: 01793 750751 E: reception@crickladehotel.co.uk www.crickladehotel.co.uk

Hotel-Golf-Restaurant-Spa

The 46-bedroom Victorian country house stands in 30 acres of grounds with panoramic views across Wiltshire.

With a restaurant, nine hole golf course, extensive conference facilities, tennis courts, health spa, gym and indoor swimming pool, Cricklade House is an ideal venue for every occasion.

Breakfast, lunch, dinner and bar snacks available 7 days a week under the direction of award-winning Executive Chef, Lee Scott, formerly Head Chef of Gordon Ramsay’s Savoy Grill.

Lunch Menu Special Offer

58 Stanton-BathPriory:P.52

4/9/10

16:08

2 Courses for £12.50 (Monday-Saturday) Page 1

Pay & Play

£9 for a round of golf. Enjoy a bacon sandwich & a cup of tea after your round for £5.50

• Rosemary Restaurant • Japanese Sunday buffet lunch • “All you can eat” dinner on Thursdays • Japanese à la carte menu • Afternoon cream tea on the patio

The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857 restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk

StantonHouseHotel www.stantonhouse.co.uk

> flavour martin blunos

T’Riffic TiRAMisu

MAGic BeANs

As he prepares for Bath’s annual coffee festival at the end of the month, martin Blunos offers up his take on a classic Italian dessert…

This month I will mostly be attending the Bath Coffee Festival, which takes place at the Recreation Ground in Bath on 21st and 22nd of May. As well as doing cookery demos, I’ll be hosting some masterclasses and encouraging a real hands-on approach. I will also be promoting my blend of coffee on the Brian Wogan stand.

In the run up to the show I will be taking a coffee-inspired cookery class at Ralph Allen School in Bath to help launch and create awareness of the show. Depending on how things go, one or two of the students can then help me demo on stage

at the show, how cool is that? (Not much if you’re a teenager I suppose.)

I’m sure some of you are questioning the point of a show about coffee: “Will there be enough to see and do?” I hear you ask. Well, if last year is anything to go by, then I can guarantee everybody will have a great time taking part in the usual and the unusual from tasting coffee to painting with it!

In celebration of this wonderful bean, I feel that this month’s recipe has to be the classic tiramisu – enjoy! ■

ingredients 6 medium eggs 200g caster sugar 250ml double cream 250g mascarpone 200ml espresso coffee 1 tsp vanilla extract 180ml marsala 25-30 sponge finger biscuits 1 tbsp coca powder 1 tbsp drinking chocolate powder method Firstly, separate the egg whites and put to one side. In a large bowl, whisk with an electric whisk the egg yolks and sugar until pale and fluffy. Cream the mascarpone until soft and add to the egg yolks and sugar and mix well. In another bowl, whip the cream until it is thick and soft and fold this into the mixture.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until white, light and firm and fold them into the mixture. Mix the marsala, vanilla extract and coffee together and put into a 10 inch square deep dish. Spoon some of the mascarpone mixture into a dish. Dip half of the sponge fingers into the coffee mixture and quickly lay these in the dish on top of the mascarpone mixture. Top with more of the cream and repeat, finishing with a layer of cream. Level off and set in the fridge overnight. On the next day, combine the cocoa and drinking chocolate powders together and dust over the tiramisu.

one of the south west’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to england from latvia just after the second world war. he has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBc1’s saturday kitchen with James Martin, BBc Market kitchen, iTV daily cooks and iTV’s saturday cooks.

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Dine with us and enjoy lunch from £16.95 or dinner from £25.95 (based on 2 courses)

16 Bedrooms | Licensed for Civil Ceremony | 5 Mile Fishery Deer Park Country House Hotel, Buckerell Village, Weston, Honiton, Devon, EX14 3PG Tel: 01404 41266 Fax: 01404 43958 www.deerparkcountryhotel.co.uk

> flavour orient express

A word from the author…

Orient Express is the next chapter in my long love affair with the cuisine of the Eastern Mediterranean. My inspiration for this book came from the street foods that can be found on almost every corner of every town and city. Istanbul, Ankara and Gaziantep, Beirut, Damascus and Aleppo, Cairo and Amman. In these places the food was enjoyed for its simplicity and ease; standing where it was bought, or perching on a wall, people would gather, eat and talk. From gözleme and börek, to pilaf and shawarma, all are served with the generous, warm hospitality

of the Eastern Mediterranean people. Always sharing, always giving, even when they have little for themselves, I was always made to feel welcome.

Orient Express is all about sharing, so I’ve designed recipes that will serve six or eight smaller dishes, allowing you to dip in and out of the flavour-themed chapters and create your very own Eastern Mediterranean feast. So invite a few friends, get comfortable, share some stories and enjoy the food. ..

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> flavour orient express

Duck, haloumi and green chilli spring rolls with sweet potato and almond skordalia For the skordalia 1 large sweet potato, peeled and cubed 2 garlic cloves, crushed Juice of 1 lemon 1 tbsp ground almonds 5 tbsp olive oil For the spring rolls 1 tbsp olive oil 4 duck leg quarters, cut into small pieces 1 tsp ground cumin Small bunch fresh mint, chopped 1 bay leaf 4 shallots, sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 100ml chicken stock Small bunch of fresh parsley, chopped 200g haloumi cheese, crumbled 3 small green chillies, deseeded & sliced 12 sheets of filo pastry (20cm x 20cm) 5–6 tbsp butter, melted 1 tbsp za’atar (available from Bart Spices) Cook the sweet potato in boiling water for 20 minutes until soft. Drain and mash in a bowl, then add the garlic, lemon and ground almonds. While stirring, drizzle in the olive oil until well mixed in and season.

Watermelon and cherry tomato salad with feta, almond and za’atar crumble There is nothing that reminds me more of home than watermelons, great mountains of them piled up in the market. And there is nothing better than a heavily chilled watermelon slice on a hot summer afternoon. With this in mind I created this salad. It’s very simple and absolutely delicious. Make sure you use perfectly ripe watermelon and tomatoes.

For 8 to share For the salad ½ medium watermelon, peeled and cut into chunky cubes 200g cherry tomatoes, halved Small bunch of fresh mint, leaves only For the crumble 200g feta cheese, crumbled 100g almonds, lightly toasted and crushed 1 tsp za’atar

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To serve Fresh bread White nasturtiums or if unavailable use herb flowers Combine the salad ingredients in a large serving bowl. Mix together the crumble ingredients and sprinkle on top of the salad. Sprinkle with white nasturtium flowers. Serve with fresh bread.

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/gas mark 6. Heat the olive oil in an ovenproof dish.

Add the duck pieces, cumin, mint, garlic and shallots and cook for 5 minutes, until the meat is lightly browned. Add the stock, cover and cook in the oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the duck is tender and cooked through. Remove the duck and place to one side until cool, then pull the meat off the bones and shred it into a bowl, discarding the skin and bones. Mix in the parsley, haloumi cheese and green chillies. Add 6 tbsp of the cooking juices.

Turn the oven up to 200°C fan/gas mark 7. Place a large filo sheet on your work surface, brush with butter, then fold in two. Spoon some of the mixture in and gently spread along the edge. Fold in the sides to enclose the filling, then roll away from you to get a neat spring roll. Repeat with the remaining filo sheets. Arrange the pastry rolls on a baking tray, brush with the melted butter and sprinkle with the za’atar. Bake in the oven for 5–6 minutes, until golden. Serve the spring rolls hot, with the sweet potato and almond skordalia, and sprinkle the skordalia with some za’atar. Makes 12 10cm long rolls.

> flavour orient express

Skordalia is a Greek garlicky sauce or dip, usually made from either potatoes or bread. For a distinctive modern take on this traditional sauce IÂ use sweet potato.

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> flavour orient express

Lemon balm sorbet, black sesame macaroon crumble and lemon balm oil For the sorbet 600ml water 160ml light corn syrup Small bunch of lemon balm, leaves only 110g caster sugar Juice of 2 lemons for the crumble 50g ground black sesame seeds 80g ground almonds 220g icing sugar 3 medium egg whites 2 tbsp caster sugar For the oil 1 bunch lemon balm 100ml rapeseed oil To serve 12–16 small lemon balm leaves 1 day in advance Blend the water and syrup together in a food processor or a blender.

Pour into a saucepan

and heat gently. Remove from the heat just before it boils. Add the lemon balm leaves, sugar and lemon juice. Stir until the sugar dissolves and allow to cool. You can leave the balm leaves in or discard as you choose. Using an ice cream machine, churn the mixture as per your machine’s instructions, for about 40–45 minutes.

Otherwise, place the mixture in a plastic container, cover and place in the freezer.

You’ll need to stir the sorbet every half an hour until it’s set.

To make the crumble Preheat the oven to 150°C fan/gas mark 3½. Blend the sesame seeds, ground almonds and

icing sugar in a food processor. Whisk the egg whites to hard peaks, add the caster sugar and continue whisking until glossy.

Fold the sesame mixture into the egg whites a little at a time. Line and lightly grease a 20 x 27cm baking tray. Spread the macaroon mixture over the tray – it should be about 2cm thick. Bake in the oven for 45 minutes. When cool break into small pieces and put to one side until needed.

To make the oil Place the lemon balm into a food processor and blend until finely chopped.

Add the rapeseed oil and pulse briefly to combine. Pour the mixture through a sieve and discard the solids, reserving only the scented oil.

To serve Arrange a few pieces of the macaroon crumble on each plate. Spoon on some lemon balm sorbet, drizzle with a touch of lemon balm oil, then scatter more of the crumble on top. Garnish with lemon balm leaves and serve.

Orient Express is published

by Hutchinson, RRP £20 28

> flavour mezze

make it mezze Feeling inspired? Then see how the experts do it in our pick of the best mezze restaurants in Bristol and Bath...

Souk Kitchen From Marrakesh to Cairo, Damascus to Beirut, visiting a Middle Eastern souk is a unique and magical experience. Souk Kitchen brings the best of Middle Eastern market food and mezze dishes to Bristol.

The dishes are packed with flavour, prepared with passion and made for sharing with family and friends!

Like a traditional souk, they support the local community by using the freshest local and seasonal ingredients.

01179 666880 www.soukkitchen.co.uk

Mezze at the Royal George

traditional British fare to choose from.

Mezze at the Royal George, Thornbury and the Green Dragon, Downend are fast setting the pace for great value authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Opened just two years ago, the owners have stamped their mark on Thornbury offering a true taste of mezze dining in a smart, relaxed atmosphere. Hot on its heels in Downend is the Green Dragon. Now a year old, it is proving just as successful.

Whether visiting for a leisurely drink or a relaxing meal, Mezze offers a wide range of wines, cocktails, traditional beers and ciders that jostle comfortably alongside a selection of coffees and teas to suit everyone.

The menus range from individual mezze dishes to the grand mezze, a Mediterranean feast of little dishes, containing many of the delicacies and specialities of authentic regional cuisine.

Also on offer is a full à la carte of

All venues provide private rooms for conferences, weddings and private dining and excellent al fresco dining. Look out for Mezze opening in Portishead in early 2012.

01454 414030 www.mezzethornbury.co.uk 01179 141101 www.mezzedownend.com

Opa Opa Mezze Bar and Restaurant offers authentic Greek food in a relaxed and stylish venue. Opa believe some of the most important aspects of life are the sharing of good food and good conversation and that’s why the Greek tradition, the offering of numerous small dishes, is a sign of generous hospitality and good times – a quality which Opa strives to achieve with every visit.

The menu celebrates the fusion of flavours, colours and textures, which is so important to traditional mezze food. Enjoy your meal al fresco style on the terrace overlooking the river before moving inside for some exotic homemade cocktails and a spot of Greek dancing!

01225 317900 www.opabath.com 29

> flavour cricklade hotel

cricklade hotel

This month Jennie Clark enjoys precision dining with panoramic views over the Wiltshire countryside...

Cricklade Hotel is an inviting, stone country house set in miles and miles of green Wiltshire countryside. As we entered the bar we were greeted with magnificent panoramic views from the conservatory and terrace raised above the golf course – along with wine, canapés and big, squashy sofas that followed, there can be no better end to a working day.

The house is Victorian, and its original features are beautifully showcased – from antique bedroom furniture, to the traditional stonework inside the periodstyle conservatory. Every guest was given a friendly and personal welcome by the front-of-house staff, whose advice on the wine and food made for an even more relaxing experience.

The first (and finest) recommendation was to start with the homemade langoustine bisque with seafood and saffron ravioli (£5.10). A single, rustic ravioli was served, then the bisque poured ceremoniously from a caffetiere at the table. The firm pasta was a welcome addition for texture, even if the flavour of the filling was a bit lost. But the bisque was absolutely delicious – a slightly rough texture with powerful shellfish sweetness, completely moreish and something I would have 30

again and again. My partner went for the house cured gravadlax with honey and mustard dressing and caper salad (£6.25), which was delightfully fresh, sweet and summery.

For mains, another recommendation, of new season sea trout with caramelised chicory, grain mustard puréed potato and saffron nage (£14.50). The colours on the plate were just stunning – pink trout and saffron yellow cream sauce. It was a really lovely summer dish - the mustard and saffron used sparingly enough to really appreciate the freshness of the South Coast fish.

With a menu including equally tempting pheasant with port-soaked prunes, guinea fowl with chestnut and braised ribs and cheek of local beef, my partner eventually chose the confit of Aylesbury duck, wrapped in Parma ham and baked with kumquat and walnuts (£18.10). The subtle little twists to classic combinations seem

to be a trademark – the confit had a little orange zest running through it, perfectly lifting the otherwise rich plate.

For dessert we were lucky to have tasters of several of Cricklade Hotel’s most popular dishes – lemon posset, poached pear, strawberries and cream millefeuille, and our favourite – a tiny dark chocolate mousse with little coffee crystals running through. And if this selection wasn’t enough of a finale, back in the

A single, rustic ravioli was served, then the bisque poured ceremoniously from a caffetiere at the table

> flavour cricklade hotel

conservatory our coffees came with a plate of homemade truffles.

The whole evening flowed seamlessly, with time to browse our menus and enjoy the beautiful view before being seated for dinner. Maitre d’ Klaus has been at Cricklade Hotel for twenty years (to be celebrated at the end of May with a German-themed food and drink evening) – The style of service was certainly traditional, but being well-looked after felt like a real treat.

There are scores of reasons to detour and take a visit to Cricklade Hotel – from the great views and warm welcome, to the golf course, spa, ballroom and of course, the food. Such attention to detail and expertise is always welcome, but here it’s guaranteed. ■

Cricklade House Common Hill Cricklade Wiltshire SN6 6HA 01793 750751 www.crickladehotel.co.uk 31

> flavour clare morris

I

make time for wine

was delighted recently to discover a website under construction dedicated to my mantra – www.maketimeforwine.org.

It’s being built to support the equally commendable National Wine Month in May, set up to ‘take the average wine drinker beyond their normal wine boundaries’.

The website will contain details of events happening all around the UK, with promotions, tastings and roadshows in supermarkets, restaurants and pubs all around the country. A chance to try some wine you’ve never experienced before perhaps, without the risk of having to buy a whole bottle first. I urge you to get involved – and I guarantee you’ll find something you like which doesn’t have to cost the earth to enjoy.

The programme got me thinking about the whole concept of national wine. Although there are many international grape varieties which are grown in every wine region of the world, some grapes do have a particular association with a specific region. So great is their fame in that part of the world, they act as local champions for the whole wine category. Here’s a few of the best known – at surprisingly good value...

France is a difficult country to cover under this heading. So many grapes have a great heritage in France, and each region grows a different group of varieties.

How could I ignore the great Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignons of Bordeaux, the aromatic Sauvigon Blancs of the Loire Valley or spicy Syrahs from the Rhone?

I did, however, decide in the end on two grapes varieties which play a dual role in France’s abundance of fabulous wines.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir not only give us some of the world’s best wines from Burgundy, but they also form the basis of the Champagnes which as a nation we know and love.

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Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.

> flavour clare morris

Heavy, oaked Chardonnay isn’t really the first wine that comes to mind with the beautiful sunshine we’ve been having recently. Indeed, as I sit at my garden table, squinting at my laptop screen, the first wine that pops into my head is a crisp, refreshing Chablis. Ice cold and bone dry, this is a Chardonnay which is deceptively easy to drink and is a great summer aperitif as well as a classically good match for seafood. I discovered a lovely Gloire de Chablis from J Moreau et Fils at the Thatched Tavern in Ascot. Available in both half and full bottle sizes, to suit either an after work drink in their beautiful beer garden or with dinner – I suggest starting with the scallops with avocado panacotta. www.thethatchedtavern.co.uk Pinot Noir really comes into its own in the summer months.

Light, refreshing and full of cherry and red berry flavours in its youth, and fabulously complex and smoky with age.

Many wine buffs argue this is the best wine in the world.

I couldn’t call it myself (so much to choose from!) but it’s an easy contender.

Louis Jadot’s Bourgogne Pinot Noir may be their entry level wine, but as you’ll discover with hardto-grow Pinot Noir, there really is no such thing as entry level. A very versatile grape, and at the Cloche Hat in picturesque Cobham, Surrey there’s a wealth of top quality food to pair it with.

I’m leaning towards the crisp duck breast with sauté of red cabbage, pear and apple, and ‘pommes William potato’. www.clochehat.co.uk

Let’s head South from Burgundy to another classic wine region – Rioja. The Tempranillo grape started in and is still largely confined to this region. You can see why the Spanish want to hold on to it! Riojas change in style with age and range from young, fruit-driven Tintos and Crianzas to full bodied, oaked Reservas and Gran Reservas.

This season go for a refreshing, easy drinking Faustino VII (the lower the number, the older the wine) at the Beehive Inn in Cheltenham, known locally as ‘the village pub of Montpellier’. In my opinion, you can’t go wrong pairing this wine with a good sausage and mash, but I did also discover a fabulous vegetarian Wellington which is definitely worth a try. www.thebeehivemontpellier.com Now here’s a grape which has firmly anchored itself in a whole new world. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is one of the best known wines around at the moment, and has seen astronomical growth in popularity in the last decade. It has an incredibly distinct flavour often described as grassy, herbaceous, and with gooseberry fruit flavours. These ‘aromatic’ varietals are a great match for spicy food – regular readers will have heard me say this before – and so I’ve gone for an Indian restaurant setting for this wine. Coriander Lounge in Southampton has a range of traditional and speciality Indian dishes and good wines to match.

Heavyweight enough for even my favourite Indian dish – garlic chilli chicken – try the Riverstone Ridge as a great accompaniment for anything on the menu. www.corianderlounge.com 33

> flavour the paulet arms

As the gastro-pub era approaches its inevitable conclusion, flavour pays a visit to The Paulet Arms in Wiltshire to discover a new age for old values...

escape to the country the essentials such as bread and milk and a take-away service where people can order a pie raw, or cooked, and take it home in a recycled box.”

Adrian brings a refreshing perspective to the modern concept of gastro pubs: “We hate that word, ‘gastro’. It sounds like an illness! We’re not trying to pretend we’re something we’re not. We are about good food, yes, but we want to be remembered for the pub itself and the experience of proper eating. We are here for the village.”

At last, we can abandon the new-age terms and enjoy something for what it is. An inn offering good food, a good atmosphere and good accommodation.

Adrian’s nature is both likeable and honest which emanates from the walls of this place. Visit this pub and I can guarantee you’ll be welcomed by a team of young, professional staff who can offer not only a smile, but a sound knowledge of each dish and glass on offer.

Spend an afternoon with chef Adrian Jones and you may just be convinced to clear down your desk and head out to the countryside and open up your own idyllic pub. I know that’s the effect he had on me anyway.

The Paulet Arms has something for everyone. Come in for a game of darts, host a cricket team meeting, eat some tapas at the bar, enjoy a glass of beer with your pie and chips, or simply take it home. Its innovative yet traditional food, its modern yet sympathetic touch and the forward-thinking team are the perfect ingredients for the perfect local.

Adrian makes a career out of moving from kitchen to kitchen and turning a flagging pub or restaurant into a flagship eatery. He has done it in London with acclaim from the infamous AA Gill and now he’s doing it again at the Paulet Arms in Wiltshire with full backing from the local villagers, a true testament to a proper village pub.

Remarking on Adrian’s enthusiasm, he modestly acknowledges the integral role played by the building and renovation team. From the structure to the soft furnishings, the team took care of every detail with a level of passion unrivalled by anyone else he’s met or worked with over such a project. “You can’t help but admire a team like that. Their vision for this place was spot on. They have combined the old and new together seamlessly and it looks superb. We have old fashioned ale pumps 34

Perhaps it’s time to make that career move after all. If you need any inspiration, you know where to find Adrian… ■

alongside modern technology, such as the iPads which control the lighting and everything else behind the scenes.

“Our objective is about putting this place back on the map as the ‘pub in the hub’.

We have a loyalty card scheme for the locals, a soon-to-be-opening shop stocking

The Paulet Arms Westbury Road Edington Wiltshire BA13 4PG 01380 830940 www.pauletarms.co.uk

> flavour the paulet arms

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> flavour mitch tonks

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

Here’s the ca ch With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month new flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...

Living by the coast means that I am able to get out on the water (when there is space in my diary) and enjoy the pleasures of fishing and sailing. When the weather is just right there is nothing quite like it, sailing out from Brixham round Start Point to Dartmouth is a delight and so beautiful.

Now I know that is hard to do in Bristol but being on the river is equally good and there is always plenty of activity with ferries and pleasure boats on the water. The sunshine and the water bring out a real need in me to enjoy seafood, must be memories of the Mediterranean that I want to relive, lobster a la plancha in Menorca or spider crab in Venice. In the UK we have an abundance of crab and there are none finer than those from the well managed fisheries of South Devon. So much of our crab is exported but at RockFish we have this delicious

This month:

crab

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shellfish delivered up from the coast daily to have as a perfect starter for our Sunday roasts or served whole, cracked and on ice with a pot of mayo for dunking the chunks into.

I have spent many summer afternoons at the beach or the park or in the garden and freshly boiling a crab for a few minutes, then after it has cooled use the rocks on the beach or crackers to crack the crab and eat it with a pot of mayo – that’s about as fresh as it gets. It’s an amazing experience and something that we can do living on this island surrounded by some of the most amazing fish and shellfish in the world.

Crab from South Devon has a delicious flavour and being in good supply makes an economical choice as well as a fantastically tasty one. You can’t go wrong with a good crab sandwich, probably on thick, soft, white bread with lots of brown crabmeat, fresh cucumber and black pepper. Crab sarnies used to be such an institution when visiting the coast but I think they haven’t had quite the same appeal to a new, younger generation unlike the ubiquitous prawn sandwich and I wonder why. Perhaps it is to do with the decline in the high street fishmonger or a certain squeamishness when it comes to some shellfish. So for all those of you out there who don’t want to miss this fabulous British food, here’s how to prepare it plus a recipe that is often overlooked for it’s simplicity but should be back on every dinner party menu and supper club going in my opinion! Try it, let me know what you think. ■

> flavour mitch tonks

Preparing crab

For a 2kg crab, bring a large pan of water to the boil, add a good handful of rock salt and then boil the crab for 15-18 minutes. Drain and stand the crab on its nose to cool.

When cool enough to handle, turn the crab on its back. With the back facing you, tuck your hands around the side of the shell and force the carapace away with your thumbs. This can feel awkward but a bit of brute force usually does the trick. Here you will see the feathery ‘dead man’s fingers’ sticking up at the edge of the body.

They are harmless but give them a tug and discard them. With your thumb press on the stomach sac that is behind the eyes of the crab in the top shell, this should easily break away. Scrape the delicious brown meat out with a spoon, place in a bowl and mix with a fork. Pull off the claws and legs giving them all a good crack with the back of a heavy knife then cut the carapace into chunks.

Break the claws and take out the white meat from the thick end. Use the back of a heavy bladed knife to crack open the remaining claw and the pincers. Remove all the white meat and flake into a bowl. To remove the meat from the body of the crab, take a sharp knife, cut the crab body in half then in half again.

Potted South Devon crab Serves 4

If this is not for you, our fishmonger will do all the preparation. Just text him on 07929 444767 and tell him you want a freshly boiled crab to pick up and he’ll do it for you on the day – crab to go!

Ingredients 250g brown meat 150g white meat splash of cognac tsp ground fennel seeds 1 crumbled dried chilli 100g melted butter + 50g for pouring on top fennel fronds juice & zest ½ lemon Method Melt the butter, stir in the crabmeat, cognac, the fennel, lemon juice, chilli and zest season and taste and then put into ramekins and pour a little melted butter over the top. Sprinkle with fennel fronds, chill well and serve with toast.

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Al fresco dining

During the fleeting British summer, the excuse to dine al fresco needs to be enjoyed to the full. It’s parasols and Pimm’s at the ready at this selection of idyllic outdoor settings...

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> flavour al fresco dining

The Bath Priory

When the sun shines we all want to be outside making the most of every moment of the glorious English summer – long lazy days, wonderful seasonal produce and an excuse to drink perfectly prepared Pimm’s!

The Bath Priory has the most beautiful Victorian sun terrace overlooking the four acres of walled gardens that are a tribute to the horticultural talents of Head Gardener Jane Moore.

Al fresco moments make the summer so join The Bath Priory for morning coffee lingering over the papers; light lunches with

friends and plenty of chatter; traditional afternoon tea with the finest of cakes or

Must-try drink…

A signature mojito, the very essence of summer.

Must-try dish…

Chef ’s risotto of the day, featuring the finest summer vegetables and herbs freshly picked from the kitchen garden, the taste of summer.

enjoy a summer cocktail served from our outside bar – perfect to bring the day to a close as the sun sets over the city.

This has to be the best spot in Bath to celebrate summer.

The Bath Priory Weston Road Bath BA1 2XT 01225 331922 www.thebathpriory.co.uk

Whatley Manor Whatley Manor is a gorgeous Cotswold manor house hotel and spa set in 12 acres of English country gardens. Michelin twostarred chef Martin Burge oversees both of the restaurants at Whatley Manor.

Le Mazot, is the informal-style brasserie and alternative restaurant to The Dining Room. Le Mazot serves lunch and dinner every day of the week offering delicious seasonal food including a starter of braised rabbit flaked in a red wine broth and served with its own liver parfait, followed by fillet of halibut, pan fried and served with steamed cockles and white wine sauce. For dessert enjoy ginger panacotta dressed with poached mi-cuit apricots, pears and ginger cake crumble.

Combine a two-course lunch and a tour

of the beautiful English country gardens with the head gardener. A series of events including the Tuesday garden tours, Sunday cinema screenings and jazz Sundays are detailed on the website.

Whatley Manor Hotel and Spa Easton Grey Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0RB 01666 822 888 reservations@whatleymanor.com www.whatleymanor.com

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> flavour al fresco dining

The Wheatsheaf Sensational sunny days and starlit nights sum up The Wheatsheaf at Combe Hay perfectly. A great dining destination at any time of year, it really comes in to its own for al fresco summer dining. Nestled in

Must-try dish…

Head Chef Eddy Raines heartily recommends the poached breast of Heywood Farm guinea fowl, tortellini of the leg and consomme.

an area of outstanding natural beauty, the Domesday village of Combe Hay offers a perfect spot to get away from it all.

The Wheatsheaf terrace and lush gardens are much sought after when the sun is high in the sky, whether you’re looking for a pint and a sandwich, the scrumptious homemade ‘burger of the week’ or something tempting from the à la carte menu. Enjoy freshly-baked breads, its famed fresh fish or other seasonal favourites from local suppliers. The

Wheatsheaf kitchen garden with mouthwatering desserts will leave you satisfied and perfectly relaxed, making a visit here a summer must do!

The Wheatsheaf Combe Hay Bath BA2 7EG 01225 833504 www.wheatsheafcombehay.com

Rugantino Restaurant

at The Ancient Gatehouse Hotel

The Rugantino Restaurant has al fresco dining facing the beautiful West Front of Wells Cathedral.

The restaurant is proud to offer award-winning authentic Italian cuisine, which holds an AA rosette. Fresh pasta is made daily on the premises, offering a wide choice of dishes from crab ravioli to rigatoni with Italian sausage. A fantastic two-course lunch is available from £10.50 which includes a complimentary glass of house wine, and a three-course Sunday lunch can be enjoyed in or outside. In the evening, choose from their Italian three course set menu or traditional Italian à la carte menu.

Visit Rugantino for a unique Alfresco cream tea or that special meal to remember.

The Ancient Gatehouse Hotel & Rugantino Restaurant, Sadler Street Wells BAR 2SE 01749 672029 www.ancientgatehouse.com

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> flavour al fresco dining

South Sands Boutique Hotel and Beachside Restaurant Must-try dish…

Sea Bream “Al Cartoccio” with rosemary, chilli and olive oil “The Sea Bream is cooked in paper and then opened at the table. The fish has the perfect texture when cooked this way and the herbs and olive oil infuse while cooking – simple but fabulous.”

(South Sands kitchen team)

A beautiful boutique hotel and beachside restaurant hidden in the stunning coastal location of South Sands, near Salcombe.

The restaurant’s spectacular curved wall of pristine French windows unfolds onto breathtaking views across Salcombe Estuary, while the decked beachside terrace encompasses the whole sea-facing side of the striking hotel. Diners can soak up the prized setting while enjoying a fine gourmet experience, as well as more relaxed informal tapas-style dining, cocktails and drinks.

Equally exceptional is the menu created by acclaimed local chef Mitch Tonks who brings a selection of South Devon’s best fresh fish and seafood to the table at South Sands. The menu is all about produce, which has been carefully selected from local suppliers to ensure it is at its freshest. With such wonderful ingredients on its doorstep, the menu is simple yet sophisticated, allowing each

dish to complement the wonderful natural flavours of its produce.

South Sands Boutique Hotel & Beachside Restaurant Bolt Head, Salcombe, Devon TQ8 8LL 01548 859 000 www.southsands.com

Wildfire

Head chef at Wildfire, Tom Woods explains: “Working as a chef in Devon is incredible – I have some of the most sought after ingredients right on my doorstep, and when sourced at just the right time, they deliver the most intense flavours. There is nothing like the first English asparagus, the first lobster of the year, the most amazing piece of beef fillet – and I’m proud to chalk these on the specials board as they arrive

win This month Dart Marina Hotel & Spa in Devon is giving one lucky flavour reader the chance to win a night’s stay for two, including breakfast in The River Restaurant and dinner at Wildfire Bar & Bistro.

For your chance to win, email competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address and phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

T’s & C’s: The stay needs to be taken before 31st July 2011.

with me each day. Produce this good needs a light touch – and my view is that when you start with a fabulous piece of beef or an amazing lobster, you want all that natural, seasonal intensity to shine through – and even better if you can eat al fresco in amongst the landscape that produced such outstanding flavour.”

Not to be missed at Wildfire and made for sharing; the Chateaubriand – a rare find on menus and a delicious way to share one of the most exceptional cuts of beef sourced from Luscombes of Totnes,

or the Fruits de Mer which captures the essence of the coastline around Devon in one dramatic platter, or the Hand Dived Scallops seared and served simply to make the most of the unmistakable sweetness of this tender delicacy.

Wildfire Bistro Dart Marina, Sandquay Road Dartmouth Devon TQ6 9PH 01803 837180 www.wildfirebistro.com

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> flavour xxxxxxx

Four Seasons synthetic rattan furniture for every outside space

We’re a family run Bristol based company specialising in affordable, high quality, stylish synthetic rattan furniture that is perfect for any outdoor space, poolside and conservatory.

Our range includes our extremely popular hanging chairs, dining sets, sofa sets and sun loungers. As the material of choice for outdoor furniture, synthetic rattan won’t fade, lose it’s elasticity and can be left outside in humid hot summers and cold wet winters. Our furniture is light-weight and low maintenance and provides great stability and comfort. It will transform your outdoor space into an enjoyable living area.

Visit our shop on Cotham Hill for a brochure and to give our furniture a try (you might not want to leave once you’ve got comfy) or call us for a chat on 01179 737178.

Shop opening hours: 9am-5pm, Monday to Friday 2 Cotham Hill, Clifton, Bristol BS6 6LF Email: fourseasonsrattan@gmail.com

www.fourseasons-clifton.co.uk

> flavour dirty girl diary

Dirty Girl diary Known for giving the big two to the big four, Rebecca Sullivan is a staunch soldier for the green revolution who worked on the launch of both the Real Food Festival in London and Slow Food Nation in San Francisco. Picking up her London life six years ago, Rebecca recently moved to a smallholding in the Cotswolds to embark on various foodie adventures such as digging trout ponds, building smokehouses, installing beehives and making jam for her community-supported agriculture project ‘Dirty Girl Kitchen’. With her finger firmly on the pulse, each month Rebecca gives recommendations that no foodie should be without...

Post wedding blues It was hard to not get caught up in the royal wedding mayhem, so I thought for those in need of a re-run on YouTube, that you may want to do it in style and watch it eating Prince William’s favourite cake that was served at the wedding. I made it several times – well I had to get it perfect for you!

Prince William’s Chocolate Crunch Cake Serves 8 Ingredients 1 packet of digestives ¼ cup of raisins ¼ cup of nuts chopped 5 oz dark chocolate 5 oz milk chocolate 1 stick butter, room temp.

1 14 oz can condensed milk 5 oz dark chocolate 1 tsp milk

Have a Really Wild time Method 1 In a large metal bowl, crumble 1 packet of digestives into bite-size pieces. Add raisins and nuts.

2 In a saucepan, melt chocolates, butter, and milk. Stir frequently so chocolate doesn’t burn.

3 Add melted mixture to biscuits and stir until dispersed.

4 Line an 11-by-7-inch pan with waxed paper. Pour mixture into pan; spread evenly. Refrigerate for 2 hours.

5 For the topping, combine ingredients in a saucepan; stir until melted.

6 Remove cake from fridge and cover with topping. Cut into squares and serve.

Whoopie!

I will never be able to make a whoopie pie like the delightful Claire Ptak, but I most certainly enjoyed trying. For those of you who have missed the whoopie train, whoopie pies are two discs of sponge cake sandwiching a thick butter cream filling. These melt-in-the-mouth treats have been a suprise hit in Britain, where they are outselling cupcakes, donuts and macaroons.

With over 60 lip-smacking recipes this is a whoopie-baker’s bible. It has treats for every occasion, indulgent treats and cute party snacks. There are even alternative cake-cookie recipes such as oreo cookies and easy macaroons. My personal favourite is the coconut swiss butter cream whoopie.

Held within sight of the sea and the ancient cathedral, the seventh Really Wild Festival will take place in St Davids on Friday 29th & Saturday 30th July. It’s the wildest two days of culinary delights, rural traditions, storytelling and countryside fun you could want.

With everything from pig races to campside coffee making, wellie throwing to foraging. It really is a must do this summer, so make a weekend of it and camp in the glorious scenery and soak up the festival atmosphere whilst stuffing your face and learning a thing or two about the countryside while you’re at it. www.reallywildfestival.co.uk

Available from www.amazon.co.uk 43

> flavour xxxxxxx

national vegetarian month

burritos & beats Europe’s largest veggie event is about to make its return to Bristol where music and meat-free feasting go together like two peas in a pod...

Bristol has hosted Europe’s veggie event for eight years now and this year is no different. The city welcomes vegan food producers from across the UK to a week of free fringe festivities before culminating in a huge three-day outdoor event at the harbourside. Enjoy headline acts such as Ms Dynamite, Goldie Lookin Chain, The Selecter, Aswad and Black Roots which will conclude at night in The Amphitheatre.

“The Fringe week is a whole new concept for us” explains Tim Barford, the organiser of VegfestUK. “We wanted to get more of the Bristol community involved and also bring the benefits of the veggie/vegan lifestyle to an even wider audience. Fringe week sees a series of talks, films, cookery demos and food sampling across Bristol, and all the daytime events are free to the public, bringing them right into the heart of Bristol.”

The weekend event is also free to the public from 11am – 5.30pm on May 27th and 28th. After 6pm you can enjoy the live music for £12 a ticket, or £10 if booked in advance.

The vast range of food on offer is the highlight of the show for many visitors to VegfestUK. With 15 specialist veggie caterers coming ranging from Cajun, Caribbean, Indian, Middle Eastern, Nouveau Cuisine, Creole, Chinese, Mexican, Spanish, Moroccan, and even a vegan fish and chips van, there will be 44

plenty to choose from. There will also be juice bars, cake stalls, cafes and burgers to spend your time snacking on.

“The food is amazing at VegfestUK,” adds the organiser Tim, “and that’s often because veggie caterers have to try a little bit harder in order to stand out from the crowd. We are lucky to have so many talented chefs on hand all at once. It is still hard to find quality veggie/vegan food when out and about in the UK, and for many of our vegan visitors this is the highlight of the whole year.”

With all the amazing cookery demos, workshops and nutritional advice including a Detox Clinic, it’s hard not to be drawn towards at least a couple of hours at Europe’s biggest veggie event for 2011!

What: VegfestUK Bristol When: May 27th – 29th Where: The Amphitheatre and Waterfront Square, Bristol BS1 5DB. How much: Admission is FREE to the public from Saturday and Sunday 11am – 5.30pm. From 6pm – 11pm it’s ticket only.

Web: www.bristol.vegfest.co.uk

> flavour national vegetarian month

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> flavour xxxxxxx

national vegetarian month the vegetarian cookery school Opened in 2001 The Vegetarian Cookery School in Bath, is run by professional chef and restaurateur Rachel Demuth – a pioneer of vegetarian, vegan and organic cooking.

Rachel specialises in unpretentious, creative and healthy food for anyone wishing to learn to cook without fish or meat, and translates the approach to her cookery school. The courses are highly instructive and hands on, catering for mixed abilities. They are also fun and very easy to follow so you can rest assured that after every session, you will walk back into your own kitchen with inspiration and ideas that are easily achievable.

Choose from one of more than 20 courses, including Fast and Delicious or Quick and Easy Italian for those short of time. Mediterranean Feast and Flavours

cookery demo Sunday 29 May, 3pm For a taster of some delicious, spicy Thai food, pop along to Vegfest in Bristol and learn how to make the most from your lemongrass, lime leaves and chillies. They will show you how to make a pad thai, topped with roasted cashews and ginger marinated tofu, a green papaya salad and to finish our favourite black rice pudding with chilli mangoes. All the recipes are vegan and gluten-free.

of Italy will appeal to those who enjoy zippy, vibrant European lifestyles, whilst Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican, Moorish and Southern Indian may be favoured by the more adventurous worldwide traveller.

Supplementary courses will focus on healthy eating and special diets, such as Gluten Free.

Each course caters for a maximum of 16 people cooking 10 different dishes on each day. At the end of the day students enjoy the food they’ve created along with organic wines. One-day courses run from 10am to 4pm and cost £135 including lunch and wine. Evening Workshops cost £45 from 6.30pm until 9pm. Half-day Workshops and Young Chef Workshops cost £75 from 10am until 2pm.

The Vegetarian Cookery School 6 Terrace Walk Bath BA1 1LN 01225 427938 www.vegetariancookeryschool.com

Pad Thai This simple and delicious recipe is a perfect way to get practising with your chillies…

Serves 4-6 Ingredients 100g Thai rice noodles cooked and drained 100g cashews, toasted 1 large red pepper, thinly sliced 3 green chillies, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 lemongrass, thinly sliced 4 pieces of fried tofu, thinly sliced Large bunch of spring onions, thinly sliced Large handful of bean sprouts, rinsed and drained 2 tbsp shoyu 1 tbsp of tamarind liquid Juice of half a lime Large handful of freshly chopped coriander leaf Sunflower oil for frying Choice of garnish: Chilli, coriander leaf, spring onion, fried shallots, pea shoots, lime wedges.

Method Stir fry the chilli, garlic and lemongrass, until the garlic is just golden. Add the red pepper, fry until softened. Add the tofu, quickly stir fry and then add the rice noodles, shoyu, tamarind and lime juice, making sure everything is well mixed. Add the cashews, spring onions, bean sprouts and check the seasoning before adding the coriander leaf.

Serve with your choice of garnish.

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> flavour national vegetarian month

WIN! A selection of gardening goodies from Sarah Raven

photography by Jonathon Buckley

Sarah Raven, writer, cook, broadcaster and teacher, is the expert on all things to grow, cut and eat from your garden.

She regularly writes for The Daily Telegraph and has presented BBC Gardeners’ World. Her gardening and cookery books have won her a number of awards.

“At Sarah Raven’s Kitchen & Garden we sell my favourite things for the garden and home – simple, seasonal, grow-your-own abundance.”

www.sarahraven.com

This month, Sarah Raven’s Kitchen&Garden is offering one lucky reader the chance to win a selection of fab gardening goodies worth over £70 so you can grow your favourite herbs and vegetables with ease!

Included in this exciting hamper is a collection of 20 year-round seed packets, string in a tin, essential secateurs, herb scissors, oak labels and pencil and very handy tub trugs.

For your chance to win, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine. com stating your name, address and phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

Terms and conditions: Competition is open until the 6th June 2011. Offer valid until the 6th of June 2011 also. Offer can only be redeemed once, and not in conjunction with any other offer. Not for use with gift vouchers or courses. Previous purchases are not eligible for this offer.

Order online or on the phone and receive a

10% discount!

Just quote SRFLAV!

riverside garden café Sat beneath Clifton’s world-famous Suspension Bridge, Riverside is the South West’s leading, co-operatively owned and independently-run garden centre. With panoramic views of the city and a stunning

backdrop of a beautiful, healthy garden, it’s easy to see why this place is known as an artist’s paradise. In their café, warm and relaxing service is on offer accompanied by a wide selection of vegetarian, vegan

and gluten-free produce. The addition of a new bistro seating area this year also allows up to 60 diners to soak up the sun whilst enjoying the café’s homemade fare.

Everything is locally sourced or made on site, right down to the stock grown in the kitchen garden. On the menu you can find seasonal soups, mezze and daily specials alongside a range of organic milkshakes, juices and delicious ice creams! The Riverside also preserves the best of the summer in their homemade chutneys and jams ready to go on sale in the winter, allowing you to taste the best of the season all year round.

Clift House Road Southville Bristol BS3 1RX 0800 037 5796 www.riversidegardencentre.com 47

> flavour xxxxxxx

BRISTOL

MAY 27TH 28TH 29TH 2011

WELCOME TO EUROPE’S BIGGEST VEGGIE EVENT…..

Friday May 27th

Saturday May 28th

MS DYNAMITE THE SELECTER GOLDIE LOOKIN’ THE DESTROYERS ROLLING STAGE CHAIN CABARET

Sunday May 29th

ASWAD BLACK ROOTS LAID BLAK

DJ SWITCH • THE EMPERIALS VIBRATRONIC

100 stalls • Caterers • Licensed Bar Performance Stage

All food drink and products at VegfestUK 100% vegan.

Cinema • 4 Talks Rooms including • Health and Nutrition

Admission £10 in advance, £12 on the gate for each of the evening events 6pm -11pm Fri, Sat, Sun (includes headline acts) Admission is FREE during the day 11am – 5.30pm Sat and Sun (does not include headline acts)

Detox Clinic • Campaigns • Cookery Demos • Kids Area Daytime acts including The Phoenix Rose • Luminous Frenzy • Tensheds Karma Free • Rubber Ritchie • Rawhead • Lonely Tourist Khantaras • Shane Jordan • Bhangra Class

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Bristol Fringe Week starts May 21st and runs up until the weekend featuring free talks and demos during the day in Bristol with themed fundraising events during the evenings.

For more info including ticket availability see the website www.bristol.vegfest.co.uk.

VegfestUK Bristol is at The Amphitheatre Bristol BS1 5DB

national vegetarian month

> flavour xxxxxxx

Get your pots and pans at the ready to cook up the first in a series of delicious recipes from top vegetarian restaurant Café Maitreya...

samphire fritters

with fennel ceviche and lemon thyme dressing Serves 6 Ingredients 3 large lemons 1 large fennel bulb 2 medium carrots ½ bunch spring onion 2 tsp maple syrup Pinch of sea salt 6 x sprigs of thyme (de-stalked and finely chopped) 1 tbsp smooth Dijon mustard 150ml pomice olive oil/ or a good sunflower oil 1 tbsp warm water 500g fresh samphire 100g plain flour 100g cornflower 1 egg 250ml sparkling mineral water/ cold tap water Pinch of black pepper ½ tsp ground fennel 1 litre good vegetable/sunflower oil (for frying) Method 1 Finely grate the rind of 2½ lemons and squeeze the juice into a small pan. Reduce on a gentle heat by 50%, and leave to cool.

Meanwhile, remove the rough stem of the fennel, then separate the layers and either

cut or shave into very fine strips. Peel the carrot lengthways and cut into very fine strips. Do the same with the spring onion. Move to a bowl and mix. Add 1 tbsp of maple syrup, a pinch of sea salt and the juice of the remaining lemon half, and leave to marinade for 30 minutes.

2 Transfer the lemon reduction to a measuring jug, add the remaining maple syrup, the chopped thyme and the mustard. With a hand blender, slowly blend in the pomice oil. Add the warm water at the end to ‘let down a little.’ Don’t worry if this splits as a good whisk before serving will bring it back.

3 Remove the tough ends of the samphire then wash and dry thoroughly. Mix the plain flour and cornflower then whisk in the egg. Slowly whisk in the mineral water to a smooth batter (the consistency of double cream) and season with the pepper and ground fennel. Heat a frying pan to a medium temperature (170°C). Separate the samphire into tennis ball-sized clusters and place into the batter and fry for 2 minutes until just taking colour and crisp to the touch. The fritters can be a little greasy so dry on kitchen towel. Serve with the lemon dressing or use as a dip and accompanied by the fennel marinade (ceviche).

The name maitreya is derived from sanskrit and means universal love or loving kindness and Café Maitreya has been set up to reflect those values in the food. Judged among the best vegetarian restaurants in the UK

by The National Vegetarian Society, the Bristol-based restaurant serves modern, vibrant dishes using smallscale and ethical suppliers.

T: 01179 510100 W: www.cafemaitreya.co.uk

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> flavour chef profile

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> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Nick Brodie Originally from: Ashton-under-Lyne, Lancashire Head Chef at: The Olive Tree

The Olive Tree Restaurant The Queensberry Hotel 4-7 Russell Street Bath BA1 2QF 01225 447 928 www.thequeensberry.co.uk

I’ve had to jump many hurdles to get where I am now. The hardest part of becoming a head chef has definitely been the hours. When you’re in your 20’s you want a life outside the kitchen as well, but to progress you really have to find the right combination. I’m 35 now so I don’t need to play so hard so often, you get used to what you have to do, but it was a real struggle in the early days.

I couldn’t put my finger on an exact cuisine or style that I adhere to, although such is the way food has come on in this country I would say modern British might sum it up. Having spent a year cooking in Hong Kong, a few years in London and then time in and around Bath, I’ve come across all sorts of dishes from all world cuisines. The ones I have liked most have travelled with me.

The biggest influences on my career are not going to be the names you might expect to hear. Watching my mum in the kitchen on the scones and pastries got me motivated to cook, but Simon Radley at the Chester Grosvenor Hotel in London really inspired me. He was a hard grafter and had a really nice style of working, something I hope I’ve taken away with me and learned from.

Managing a team has its pros and cons, but it becomes easier with time. When I first came to The Olive Tree, the staff were used to what they were doing and couldn’t see the merits in adapting, but the new team pulled together, understood the effort that was required and now we have something very exciting and evolving going on. I’ve never been formally taught how to manage people, but I’m very proud of what we’ve achieved and believe we provide consistently high-quality dining.

I can honestly say I am now where I want to be: Being family-run, The Queensberry Hotel and the Olive Tree have such a nice atmosphere – the staff all enjoy what they do and everyone seems to be pulling in the same direction which makes my job easier.

I don’t have a craving for fame and glory, I just enjoy cooking and am at my happiest in the kitchen with the free rein I’ve been given here.

My ‘desert island dish’ wouldn’t be cooked by me. My wife cooks a fantastic pork, garlic and black pepper Thai dish that I just couldn’t replicate. It’s real street food; pure, simple and fresh and only she can tie those ingredients together to produce such a sumptuous plate of food. ■

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> flavour somerset arms

somerset arms Situated right next to the canal in Wiltshire and not a million miles from the buzz of Bath, Semington is a small but perfectly-formed village offering the ideal stop off for a Sunday stroll or a trip down the river...

The formula for a well-stocked village is simple: it is a pub with a good selection of beers, ales and ciders, not to mention a plate of well-cooked, British fare. Up until the summer of 2009, this simple equation was missing from this warm community, meaning the heart of the village, a 16thcentury coaching inn, was suffering with a few years of neglect and food of a very questionable nature.

Local villagers, Sally and Simon, spent many hours pondering on the potential that this place offered with Sally eager to partner her skills as an interior designer with the freehouse’s periodic potential.

“I kept nudging Simon into it but in the end he only agreed to go ahead if our nephew, James Galton came on board as manager.”

Fortunately for us, James agreed and Simon gave in. The bar now stocks a wide selection of local tipples, from the classic to the lesser-known choices, and the restaurant kitchen was stripped of its maze of microwaves and freezers with an enthusiastic and very talented brigade.

The rooms upstairs were converted into a homely sanctuary to rest weary travellers and a lick of paint and a few soft, modern touches brought a new lease of life not only into the tired pub, but to the village itself.

Sally has remained firm as to what this pub means. Walking around, it is clear to see that the small, dedicated team have a certain respect for where they’re working, recognising that this pub belongs to the village and so any changes have to be sympathetic to those who have grown up alongside it. The original features have been brought to life amongst more modern 52

Running from 27th-30th May, The Somerset Arms is hosting a weekend of 1,000 pints touches, such as the wine bottles embedded in the walls in the ladies’ toilets sitting amongst the purple Farrow & Ball paintwork and the crisp white linen on the oak tables.

James, nephew and manager of the Somerset Arms, and his right hand man, Darren Ferris, host the team. Together this duo understand both the importance

of encouraging new things to be tried amongst the village and keeping certain elements, like good service and excellent food.

Miss at your peril the mini lamb pie and minted mash served as a starter (£5.50), or the generous portion of tender venison steak (£16.95) or even the soothing Pimm’s and strawberry jelly (£5.95).

The best of British is what you can expect and although the team’s main concern was bringing the village back together through fine ale and a good atmosphere, the offerings at this pub should not stand in any shadow and are a testament to local

> flavour somerset arms

suppliers and a creative and modest team.

If real ale is your thing however, then you will feel quite at home here. Running from 27th-30th May, The Somerset Arms is hosting a weekend of 1,000 pints, an excuse to sit back in the beer garden, enjoy the helpings from the BBQ, the live music and the impressive collection of cask ales, draught lagers, fresh, local ciders and not forgetting of course, a classic glass of Pimm’s.

The royal wedding this summer has caused many villages up and down the country to unite once more and find their traditional, close-knit roots. The Somerset Arms is where you can feel this newly embraced sense of patriotism. As the wedding showed, us Brits may not show off about it, but when we do it, we do it well. â–

The Somerset Arms High Street Semington Wiltshire BA14 6JR 01380 870 067 www.somersetarmssemington.co.uk 53

> flavour bees: the facts of life

bees: the facts of life Sitting outside during the summer months with a sweet refreshment used to mean warding off at least a few flying visitors. Perhaps they’ve taken offense to our endless frantic hand swipes because in recent years, they’re nowhere to be seen. This month we talk to Fred Swift, aka The Wiltshire Beekeeper, about how to protect our honey-making friends from disappearing for good…

Can you tell us a little bit about why bee populations have dwindled so much in recent years?

I personally believe that the use of so many pesticides and insecticides in the countryside has had an adverse effect on bees and at a domestic level, many people use pesticides in their gardens and insecticides in their homes these days as well.

What do the dwindling populations mean for our gardens and their native wildlife then?

One of the bees’ main skills is as pollinators, so fewer bees means less pollination and lower crop yields.

Honeybees perform approximately 80% of all crop pollination and one third of our food in this country is produced through pollination.

In that case, what can people do to encourage bees back into the wildlife?

People can stop using chemical sprays and insect sprays and use natural methods to control pests and most importantly, they can plant bee-friendly plants that are native to the British Isles.

Is it true that a jar of honey will last indefinitely?

Honey has anti-bacterial and antimicrobial properties and microbes cannot live in it, it has consequently been used for thousands of years as a topical dressing for wounds. Honey was found in Tutankhamun’s tomb scientists found it to be still edible even though it was rock hard!

A lot of people are scared of bees. In this case, what would you recommend for people to do or how they should behave when they are near a swarm?

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> flavour xxxxxxx

The last thing to do around bees is wave your arms and scream and shout, nothing will upset the bees more. Be calm around them and there’s no need to be scared. If you find a swarm it is advisable however to contact a beekeeper such as myself to come and collect it as soon as possible to take care of it.

Can you tell us some of the more peculiar places where you have found a swarm?

I’ve collected swarms from a fire hydrant, a telephone box, the back of a van, a compost heap, under the bonnet of a car around the engine, in church spires, several chimneys, and Salisbury Cathedral’s front door. At Quince Honey Farm in South Molton there’s an amazing display of unusual beehives, including the inside of a telephone box, one which opens up like a book and much more – well worth a visit.

What are some of the major benefits of honey?

Honey is a completely natural product and that in itself can only be beneficial to your wellbeing. The glucose in honey is quickly absorbed by the body to give an immediate energy boost, great for athletes, and the fructose is absorbed more slowly to sustain energy. Honey keeps blood sugar levels more constant than other types of sugar and so it can be an aid to losing weight. It has anti-oxidant, anti-microbial and anti-bacterial properties and is a popular ingredient in many remedies and cures. It’s also a powerful immune system booster. I could go on…

Which of your products would you most recommend?

I make a range of products but my favourites are my six fragrances of light, easily absorbed, hand creams made

bee courses On a beautiful Gloucestershire smallholding, Mumbley’s Farmhouse run a range of half-day, one-day and weekend events showing you how to keep bees, hens, ducks, geese, sheep or pigs, plus a smallholder taster day, which has a little bit of everything for those who would like to enjoy the good life but don’t know where to start. Courses include a delicious home-cooked meal in our lovely stone farmhouse.

An original and popular gift idea!

T: 01454 415296 W: www.mumbleysfarmhouse.co.uk

from beeswax, honey and essential oils.

As just one example, I have a number of satisfied customers whose eczema has substantially improved following the use of my lavender cream.

What do you enjoy most about your vocation?

I love giving talks to local clubs and associations – it’s lovely that people become so absorbed in learning about the bees. I also organise and run beekeeping courses throughout Wiltshire and am really encouraged by the enthusiasm of new beekeepers both young and old. www.thewiltshirebeekeeper.com 55

> flavour liquid gold

liquid gold

As the sole producers of manuka honey outside of New Zealand, Tregothnan Estate in Cornwall has the enviable job of making liquid gold...

The Tregothnan Estate in Kent and Cornwall has built quite a name for itself.

Not only is it internationally recognised for producing the only tea grown in England, the diversity of their world-famous and rather beautiful land also means that they are able to produce sustainable coppiced charcoal, kea plum jam and, most importantly, manuka honey.

At £29.95 a pot you would, naturally, expect something very special and Tregothnan doesn’t disappoint. As the only producer of manuka honey outside of New Zealand, Tregothnan takes the job very seriously.

These golden honeybees are somewhat spoilt with a very smart hive equipped with the latest mod-cons and a fortress design – these bees are quite literally the kings of the castle and considering the job they do, why wouldn’t they be?

Manuka honey, so named from the manuka bush the bees feed on, is renowned for its multiple health benefits. Among a hefty list, it is said to encourage resistance to 56

MRSA, help fight gum disease, soothe eczema, aid the digestive system, help hayfever symptoms and heal wounds.

Quite an impressive list of accolades for a pot of honey.

The working estate has been home to the Boscawen family since 1335 and its serene and beautiful gardens are a testament

to the groundsmen over the centuries.

The character of the present garden was defined by Evelyn Boscawen, the sixth Viscount Falmouth, and his brother, the Honourable and Reverend John Townshend Boscawen. They brought Rhododendrons, rare trees, shrubs and Camellia plants into the garden over a hundred years ago.

Today Head Gardener Neil Bennet and

> flavour liquid gold

Win!

A three night stay for two people with Tregothnan! his small but dedicated team tends to the gardens under the watchful eye of Garden Director and Camellia expert Jonathon Jones and remain sympathetic to these great traditions.

Everything they do at Tregothnan is inspired by the magnificent botanical gardens. It provides the team with produce and inspiration; their teas, manuka and British flowers are testament to Tregothnan’s dedication and passion.

Honeybee numbers are continuing to dwindle and this precious liquid gold should be cherished and respected. It is the old-fashioned values found at places such as Tregothnan which will help not only the population of these quite phenomenal insects, but a very British institution.

01872 520000 www.tregothnan.com

Tregothnan is giving one lucky flavour reader the chance to win a three-night stay for two people at one of their Wild Escapes self-catering cottages in Cornwall with a Tregothnan hamper on arrival. To win, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, telephone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

Terms & conditions: entry is free and no purchase is necessary. By entering this competition you are giving Tregothnan and flavour magazine permission to contact you at a future date. The prize is non-refundable, non-transferable, no alternative prize will be offered and there is no cash alternative. The draw is not open to employees of Tregothnan or flavour magazine, their families, agents or anyone professionally connected with the prize draw. All entries must be received by June 6th 2011. The prize winner will be selected at random and will be notified by email after the closing date. The winner will be offered a selection of dates when they may claim their prize, the property they stay at will be dependent on the date they select and may not be the property illustrated.

57

COOK

Remarkable food for your freezer delivered straight to your door from your local store in Wells

Free delivery for orders over $50 ● Minimum order $30 plus a $5 delivery charge

COOK Wells 13 Broad Street Wells BA5 2DJ

Log on to www.cookfood.net or call COOK Wells

01749 677726

on 01749 677726

for a menu

“The food is stunning, the quality of going out for a meal but in the comfort of your own home and straight from the freezer.” Claire, Watford

COOK www.cookfood.net

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T h e Wa l n u t T r e e Hotel Restaurant & Bar Welcome to The Walnut Tree Hotel Somerset, a lovingly restored 18th-century coaching Inn Tastefully modernised to meet the needs and expectations of the modern gourmet traveller, the bar, Lemon Tree Restaurant and bistro are delightfully warm and welcoming, serving mouthwatering food for all occasions.

From Sunday lunch to hosting your wedding, The Walnut Tree Hotel caters for all appetites.

The Walnut Tree Hotel, North Petherton, South of Bridgwater, Somerset TA6 6QA 01278 662255 www.walnuttreehotel.com

> flavour ferryboat inn

oyster bay This month a visit to a traditional Cornish pub inspires flavour Editor Holly Aurelius-Haddock to explain why it’s worth acquiring certain tastes…

If you want to elicit an animated response from a fellow diner, ask them whether they like oysters. Known to divide opinion like very few other foods, Guardian food critic Jay Rayner even once went as far as saying he distrusts anyone who doesn’t appreciate their mesmerising charm.

I sit firmly in the pro-camp, but it was not always so. Like so many personal awakenings, the power of good writing ended up being the turning point. In his compelling autobiography, Anthony Bourdain describes his first oyster brilliantly. So brilliantly in fact, that I simply have to share a snippet of it here:

“Monsieur Saint-Jour beckoned me over to the gunwale, where he leaned over, reached down until his head nearly disappeared underwater, and emerged holding a single silt-encrusted oyster, huge and irregularly shaped, in his rough, claw like fist. With a snubby, rust-covered oyster knife, he popped the thing open and handed it to me. I took it in my hand, tilted the shell back into my mouth as instructed by the by now beaming Monsieur SaintJour, and with one bite and a slurp, wolfed it down. It tasted of seawater…of brine and flesh…and somehow…of the future.”

My love affair with oysters also began some years ago in France on the idyllic Île de Ré.

From that moment, I became obsessed with seeking out the finest examples to be found on our own shores. It wasn’t long before I came across Wright Brothers, whose famed Oyster and Porter House in the heart of Borough Market uses oysters from The

Duchy of Cornwall Oyster Farm, situated on the Helford River in South West Cornwall.

Here, Wright Brothers cultivate and harvest over five million native and pacific oysters a year making the farm one of the largest in the UK. The good news for those living in our beautiful corner of the world is that Wright Brothers own The Ferryboat Inn on the banks of the Helford River, so you needn’t travel to London to experience these superlative fruits of the sea. During the summer months you can sit at the oyster bar of this 300-year old establishment watching the chefs skilfully shucking oysters by the dozen. Further novelty can be found in the form of a small ferry, which can be taken from Helford village to the beach directly outside the pub.

There are of course plenty of other homemade classics on this picturesque pub’s menu as well as all the signature seafood specialities, so if everyone in your party doesn’t share your passion, they won’t be without comforting and wellcrafted alternatives. Ask for some advice on pairing one of the St. Austell’s range with your meal and you might discover a taste for real ale, too.

They might be uneasy on the eye and tricky to negotiate, but when it comes to oysters trust me: the juice is worth the squeeze.

Moreover, if you do decide to initiate your tastebuds into exciting new realms of experience, then The Ferryboat Inn comes highly recommended as the place to start. ■

Ferryboat Inn Helford Passage Falmouth Cornwall TR11 5LB 01326 250625 www.thewrightbrothers.co.uk/ ferryboatinn 59

Burford House AA 5 Star Guest Accommodation

T

hroughout May and June, Mark Veale, Thornbury Castle’s talented head chef is delighted to offer you the opportunity to indulge in his carefully created six-course tasting menu at the same price as the threecourse à la carte menu.

Take advantage of this great opportunity while you enjoy the splendour of a 500-year-old English Castle.

Six-Course Tasting Menu available for £50 per person Thornbury Castle, Thornbury, South Glos, BS35 1HH Tel: 01454 281182 info@thornburycastle.co.uk

www.thornburycastle.co.uk

99 High Street Burford Oxfordshire

Tel: 01993-823151

Fax: 01993-823240

Centre Stage Restaurant Open for Lunches - Monday to Saturday Noon until 2.00pm - Dining Room or Courtyard, Weather Permitting and Dinner - Thursday, Friday and Saturday 7.00pm last orders 8.45pm June Dinner Offer - 3 Courses for the Price of 2 Sundays Classic Afternoon Tea Noon until 5.00pm www.burfordhouse.co.uk

ROLLING BACK THE YEARS… FAMILY OWNED, FAMILY RUN, FAMILY VALUES! Cotswold charm and six hundred years of history in the newly restored Old Swan and Minster Lovell brought to you by the de Savary Family.

Set on the banks of the beautiful and famous River Windrush, close to Oxford, the Inn and adjoining Mill are a quintessential English country retreat.

Think cosy oak-beamed, flag-stoned snugs, sumptuous sitting rooms and elegantly comfy bedrooms. Tasty gastro-pub inspired dining using fresh local ingredients crafted into heart-warming favourites. Set in 65 acres of magical gardens and wild-flower meadows, there’s tennis, boules, spa and over a mile of superb fishing as well as a children’s petting farm.

Visit www.oldswanandminstermill.com CirCa 1445

Old Swan & Minster Mill on

THE rivEr WindruSH, in THE COTSWOldS

Old Minster, Minster Lovell, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 0RN ENGLAND Tel: +44 (0) 1993 774441 E: enquiries@oldswanandminstermill.com an HiSTOriC inn, HOTEl and Spa Old Swan & Minster Mill, School Hill, Minster Lovell, Witney, Oxfordshire, OX29 0RN Telephone: 01993 774441 Fax: 01993 702 002 Email: enquiries@oldswanandminstermill.com www.oldswanandminstermill.com

> flavour pak butchers

Proudly featured in Bristol’s M Shed Museum is a rather entrepreneurial gentleman who goes by the name of Abdul Malik. The reason for the local fame is that this modest and hard working chap has been labelled one of the ‘key figures in the city who has helped bring about positive change.’

Abdul spent four years from 2005-2009 as elected councillor in Bristol, the first Muslim to be elected to bring about change in the area. Abdul acted as a mentor for young people who have been involved with crime to help them start their own business and to help them gain a positive and constructive community life.

Feeding inspiration back into a younger generation whose hope has been jaded through personal circumstances has all been achieved through his pioneering business aptitude. At the tender age of 19, Abdul signed a lease to a butcher’s shop in Easton and named it Pak Butchers, meaning ‘clean and pure’. What ensued was a chain of independent butchers’ acting as the main supplier of halal meat to the South West.

Abdul worked hard to introduce this ancient concept of food preparation to the area through local advertising and word of mouth. “It didn’t take long before the media got hold of what we were doing because the meat itself is renowned to taste better when prepared in this way.

Because of the little blood content, the meat stays fresher for longer and tastes leaner and more tender.”

Abdul soon became the voice for halal in the South West, winning multiple awards for his work along the way. At the heart of his work lies the community. Abdul continues to reinvest in the area and has worked alongside BEST (Bristol East Side Traders) to regenerate the local area with new shop fronts and traffic calming systems. Working closely with the council both in Bristol and in Cardiff, Abdul has introduced halal school meals. He is also in the middle of franchising his business so as to offer others the entrepreneurial opportunities that he created for himself.

His achievements have also been recognised at the Bristol Evening Post Business Awards. Abdul has been nominated for three awards including the Family Business and Social Responsibility categories, the results of which will be revealed later on in the month.

Reinvesting in people who can strengthen the community and creating a hub for change has always been Abdul’s main objective. As the formidable Alan Sugar continues to find this year’s budding entrepreneur, it’s people like him who inspire young people at a grass roots level. ■

pak butchers As the popular BBC series The Apprentice makes its return to our screens, we speak with local butcher and businessman Abdul Malik who puts Lord Sugar’s new protégés on a three-day week…

T: 01179 518057 W: www.pakbutchers.co.uk 61

> flavour the real point of fine dining

the real point of fine dining Last Autumn’s BBC2 comedy series The Trip saw Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon play versions of themselves on a culinary tour of The Lake District, poking fun at the formality of fine dining along the way. This month Nick Harman explains why he would have been well at home in their company…

“So there I was, absolutely no clothes on, and her husband bashes open the bedroom door, takes one look at what’s going on and shouts out... ” “The lamb tartine with squid juice and emulsion of escargots.”

Don’t you just hate it when waiters interrupt as your dining partner is getting to the punch line of a story? They seem to have a radar for the right moment, shimmying soundlessly up on your blind side before butting in abruptly.

And it doesn’t end there. As you wait patiently for the man to put the plates down and go away he pauses dramatically to gain your full attention and then begins ‘the explanation’.

“So here we have rabbit volaille drowned in its own juices, enrobed in a saffron milk and gelatinated by a reduction of pituary glands gathered before dawn in a field where Henry V once stood.”

This is all bad enough, as your food is going cold while he speaks, but at the same time he does the ‘fine dining point’.

This is a way of indicating which puddle, smear or splash he is talking about by means of a bent little finger. To point directly at the item would be too crude for fine dining, so he crooks his little finger back on itself and uses the protruding knuckle to point instead.

This enrages me to the point of steam coming out both my ears. I want to eat and this man is waving his hand over my plate and boring me stiff about the food 62

I know what’s on my plate because I ordered it, and quite frankly if I need help identifying the items then chef should stop mucking about with them that’s on it. I know what’s on my plate because I ordered it, and quite frankly if I need help identifying the items then chef should stop mucking about with them.

And there is worse to come; just as I make to pick up my tools and get stuck in the

sommelier enters stage right. This is a peril of having matching wines with each course: a lot of wine bore action. I don’t care which side of the hill the grapes were grown on, the average night temperature or the grower’s family history. All I need to know is in the glass and all I want to do is taste it.

The more you pay, the worse it gets.

My local café doesn’t tell me the sausages were lovingly-assembled from scrapings off the abattoir floor and the tea has been relentlessly stewed for five hours. Alf knows exactly what I want from him: full English and a bit of peace and quiet. Merci bien. ■

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia. co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.

Al fresco dining @ Cavendish

Soak up the sun in Cavendish Restaurant’s bijou courtyard and enjoy summer-inspired dishes from as little as £5.50

on the menu...

Cavendish soup of the day £5.50 Caesar salad £6.50 Chicken Caesar salad with smoked bacon £8.50 Beef & chargrilled courgette salad £8.50 Tagliatelle with rocket pesto olive £9.00 Pea & courgette risotto £10.00 Cheese ploughman’s £10.00 10oz homemade burger & chips £10.50 Cornish fish cake & poached egg with spinach £10.50 0 Traditional Bath Ale battered cod & chips £12.5 Ploughman’s platter £12.50 Cavendish salad – pan fried pollock & new 0 potatoes, mixed salad, tomato dressing £13.5 8oz sirloin steak, grill garnish, triple-cooked chips £18.50

Menu available Monday – Sunday 12noon to 2.00pm, Sunday – Thursday 6.00pm to 9.00pm, Friday & Saturday 6.00pm to 10.00pm