Flavour magazine Feb South West

for people who love local food

South West | Issue 46 | Feb 2012

www.flavourmagazine.com

WIN!

An overnig spa break ht Homewoo at d Park

INSIDE

Greenliving’s Olympic questions

Love Food

Heartwarming recipes from Tina Bester

Flavour Loves

Our top picks for the romantic season...

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Walk, Shop and Eat Delight in Malmesbury and the surrounding villages

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04/02/2012 01:45

welcome

Editor Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com Art Director Bruce Mytton Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Helen Kembery, Account Manager Email: helen@flavourmagazine.com Photography Jeni Meade Contributors Sian Blunos, Martin Blunos, Tom Bowles, Peter Swanepoel, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Mitch Tonks, Ron Faulkner, Louis LabronJohnson, Max Drake, James Underdown, Catherine Hannah, Emily Richards, Megan Owen

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Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com

Allow yourselves the indulgence of a trip out to The Potting Shed (P.28), spoil the family at The Woolley Grange Hotel (P.52), see the delights of our cherished columnist Mitch Tonks (P.56), or simply prep-up for Shrove Tuesday’s ‘Pancake Day’ with Megan Owen (P.44).

© Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

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All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

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Welcome to February’s flavour, an edition that hopefully finds you recovered from the Christmas festivities and, having given up on those New Year resolutions, ready to dutifully embrace the world of food and drink again.

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Inside...

04 WIN! A luxury overnight spa break for two at Homewood Park 10 In Season Tom Bowles and Peter Swanepoel cook up the best of the season’s produce 31 Love Food Heartwarming recipes presented with style by Tina Bester 45 Walk, Shop and Eat A browse around Malmesbury and the surrounding villages

For those of you that have managed to stay true to your health-kick, Tina Bester’s new book, Love Food, is full of simple, wholesome recipes that even I have managed to cook (try the chicken burgers featured on (P.31). Not only did they work, they even managed to look like the photograph in the book – a triumph indeed!

Whatever you have decided food and drink wise for the coming year, you can be assured we’ll have something to take your fancy. For me, I’m afraid nothing has changed; the pounds are packing, exercise only happens to other people and I’ll continue to be seduced by all things digestive until they stop being such a pleasure – that will never happen.

Anyway, spring is around the corner so that means we can shortly start looking forward to beer gardens again…

Well done!

N ick Nick Gregory

58 Going against the Grain Our intrepid traveller Louis finds out about Basmati rice in New Delhi

03/02/2012 23:49

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> flavour news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month

COMPETITION WINNER...

Congratulations go to Annie Chant, from Sherborne, who wins an overnight stay at The Inn at Fossebridge!

RENDEZVOUS WITH RONNIE

BISCUITS OF BLISS Fudges’ range of sweet and savoury biscuits offers the perfect treat for everyone this Valentine’s Day. The brand-new ‘Romantic’ gifting kit – jam-packed with all your essentials for a fun-filled day out or cosy night in for two – would make the ultimate gift for a loved one this year.

Boasting a picnic blanket, wine bag and glasses, corkscrew, napkins, book of love letters and scrumptious Fudges’ biscuits, this luxurious hamper is sure to make this Valentine’s Day one to remember. www.fudges.co.uk

Celebrated chef and restaurateur Ron Faulkner, of The Muset by Ronnie (Clifton), and Ronnie’s (Thornbury) is going to focus on getting the creative juices flowing by producing a series of events called Cookery by Ronnie. He will hold each event in both restaurants, include his suppliers and follow a theme. The events will be informal, informative, fun and most importantly, jolly tasty!!!

The first event is titled Bistro Classics from a Modern Kitchen with Bibendum’s hidden Gems. There will be two separate events, starting with the Wine Tasting, priced at £15, and followed by the Bistro Classics Menu priced at £35. So you can join him for either or both, in which case the food will be discounted by 15 per cent.

This event will be held at the Muset by Ronnie on February 22, and again at Ronnie’s on March 1.

Visit the website for all the details and menu selections… www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

WIN A luxurious one-night spa break for two at Homewood Park, near Bath, including accommodation in a classic bedroom, dinner from the Table D’Hote menu, a full English breakfast, a 30-minute spa treatment each, full use of all the spa facilities and the glorious hydrotherapy.

Set in ten acres of mature parklands and award-winning gardens with gorgeous views over of the beautiful Limpley Stoke valley, Homewood Park is delightfully rural and peaceful. Step inside and you'll find the house still retains many of its original features, including exposed wooden floors, antique paintings and roaring log fires, all artfully combined with stylish modern furnishings, fabrics and finishes. The result is a refreshing fusion of the conventional and contemporary cool and chic. Smart and sophisticated, yet comfortable and homely, this is country life for those who still like to keep one foot in the city.

For your chance to win, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com including your FULL contact details and stating where you saw your copy of flavour. Good luck!

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WINE OF THE

MONTH THE PERFECT VENUE AT STANTON HOUSE Our wedding fayre on Sunday the 11th March 2012 will allow you to have a look around the hotel and beautiful gardens. Stanton House Hotel is a picture perfect setting for your wedding, beautiful gardens and stunning views across Stanton Lake.

Our wedding coordinators will guide you through your special day, so that you can relax and enjoy yourselves.

Stanton House Hotel offers a choice of four civil ceremony licensed rooms, a private room with bar for your evening function and a large selection of bedrooms for all your guests’ requirements. Please contact the Hotel to arrange a meeting with our wedding co-ordinator.

Over 40 exhibitors will be on hand to offer advice. Cake displays, wonderful

floral displays, photographers, wedding dresses, suit hire, entertainers, stationery, chocolate fountain, jewellers, toastmaster, limousines, Ferraris and even a helicopter. Free entry and entry into a prize draw, opening times from 11am ~ 4pm. Over 300 visitors last year came to the wedding fayre.

Bedrooms available to look round, wine and food tasting, we set up table decorations and open all areas of the hotel for guests to look round, and hopefully the garden will be in bloom.

We have two wedding coordinators who can help with any questions you might have on the day. We offer blessings and humanist weddings in our gardens. www.stantonhouse.co.uk

Tim McLaughlin-Green, sommelier and wine consultant of Sommelier’s Choice, was shortlisted for the Harpers & Queen Sommelier of the Year award. His philosophy is to search for and work with familyowned wineries, producing highquality wines in small quantities, aiming for something really special.

M

arch is one of those months when you start to feel spring looming; time to try something other than the heavier styles of wine you have been consuming over the winter period with your comfort food.

The choice of wine is Muscadet 2001 – Nicolas Choblet.

You might think a tenyear-old Muscadet is crazy, however this is a gem with youth and freshness.

BAFTA WINNERS RENOVATE WHITE PEPPER SCHOOL Top-notch East Dorset-based White Pepper Cookery School are relaunching their website with the help of a BAFTA award-winning London design agency. White Pepper offer a wide-range of cookery courses and workshops for all ages and abilities – the new site will be online from mid-February.

Bless you... www.white-pepper.co.uk

It is produced by leaving the wine on its lees for nine years, which adds a nutty taste and flavour to the wine and gives it a superb golden colour. I challenge you to try to find a ten-year-old wine offering this much value for money!

Try with spring greens, still with some crunch, drizzle over a good splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt, or try fresh sprats caught off the coast of Devon.

This wine is available from the Dorset Wine Company, The Solent Cellar, Clifton Cellars, and also online. www.sommelierschoice.com

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> flavour news

EGG AND NAIL DISH UP SUCCESS A unique partnership between an electrical showroom and a cookery school is set to dish-up a recipe for success in Bristol. The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy from Clifton and Nailsea Electrical in Gloucester Road are joining forces to launch 102 Cookery School.

Based at Nailsea Electrical’s award-winning showroom – the first of its kind in the country to feature built-in appliances – the new cookery school will open its doors in March. Award-winning chef Barbora Stiess, of The Devilled Egg, says: “We will be offering classes for everyone; beginners, competent cooks, corporate teambuilding sessions, children as well as 102 developing additional skills and offering wine tasting.” It certainly seems like a match made in heaven! www.thedevilledegg.com www.nailseaelectrical.com

TICKLE YOUR TASTE BUDS Wiltshire-based importers of fine food and wine, Gastro Nicks, have introduced their luxury hampers showcasing a delicious array of indulgent treats. Nick Spaven and Jane Kempsey, directors at Gastro Nicks, take real pride in sourcing the finest quality foods from small artisan producers from around the globe.

They have a sumptuous spread of luxurious delicacies for you to choose from to create a bespoke, tailor-made hamper, adding that extra special touch.

Each one is made to suit your taste and budget – it really couldn’t be easier!

HOLIDAYS WITHOUT A HITCH English cheeseboard chutneys and jellies, Sicilian, Cretan and Tuscan extra virgin olive oils, aged balsamic vinegars, French terrines and French salamis are just some of the delights available. To help toast that momentous occasion, Gastro Nicks also have a range of Sicilian wines, and a superb Italian Prosecco to add a touch of sparkle to that special moment. To create your bespoke Gastro Nicks hamper, or to purchase one of their appetising ready-made hampers, starting from £26.50, visit the website...

All hampers can either be collected or delivered straight to your front door.

An intimate wedding venue or a very grand holiday let? The 18th-century Oak Barn in Hittisleigh, Devon has been stunningly converted for that romantic country wedding, but when not being used for lucky couples getting hitched, doubles as a spacious holiday let.

The 120ft-long cob barn can hold weddings and civil ceremonies for 60-90, or be used as a holiday home for six people to whom the words ‘large and luxurious’ matter. A last-minute booking system means the Oak Barn is outrageously good value.

Hittisleigh Barton Exeter Devon EX6 6LF 01647 24641

01264 852701 www.gastronicks.co.uk

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www.theoakbarn.co.uk

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> flavour news

HAVE A PIQUANT VALENTINE’S DAY Women are easy to buy presents for on Valentine’s Day; flowers, perfume, jewellery…. it all does the trick. The big question is what do you get for your man? Why not buy him something that is not only delicious but has aphrodisiac qualities, as well as releasing endorphins to give him a natural high – South Devon Chilli Farm’s Chilli Chocolate. With the luxurious taste of Belgian chocolate and the chilli kick, it is guaranteed to fire up the passion on this romantic night.

If you feel he’s really the one who deserves to be pampered, then spend some time in the kitchen with a selection of exotic spices and prepare his favourite curry. Add a dash of South Devon Chilli Farm’s Hot Habanero Sauce to make sure the heat intensity doesn’t disappoint and stock the fridge with his favourite beer. Curry, beer and dark chocolate… now you’re talking his language!

MAKE YOUR HOME A HAVEN Take a stroll through Clifton Village and get blown away by Mimosa Home, the latest addition to the home shopping scene in Clifton.

For those of you who are single this Valentine’s Day, treat yourself to a mug of luxurious hot chocolate with a chilli twist that will warm your heart as well as your taste buds. South Devon Chilli Farm’s Chilli Drinking Chocolate will always cheer you up! www.sdcf.co.uk

Browse through the shop at your leisure and choose from an inspiring range of furniture, tableware, silk flowers, candles and textiles – you will not want to leave. If you cannot find what your heart desires in-store, Mimosa will be happy to source any products from elsewhere. Make your home your perfect haven.

34 The Mall Clifton Bristol BS8 4DS 01179 706050 www.mimosahome.co.uk

READER OFFER - THE HALLMARK HOTEL GLOUCESTER One-night spa break for two including dinner, bed and breakfast and one halfhour treatment. Normally this would be £156 per person. Quote flavour magazine and receive this for just £79 per person!

Matson Lane Robinswood Hill Gloucester GL4 6EA 01452 874828 www.hallmarkhotels.co.uk

EXCLUS IV OFFER F E O FLAVOU R R READER S!

JON THORNER’S

the

BUTCHER’S

tip

Jon Thorner is the founder of Jon Thorner’s Ltd. The award-winning businessman has a farm shop near Shepton Mallet, five butchery counters across the South West and makes fantastic pies...

Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop Pylle, Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA

Brisket

Oxtail

Shin of beef

Pork hock

Braising steak, shin, brisket, pork hocks, belly pork, lamb shank and shoulder of lamb. These are all examples of the fantastic cuts you can buy whether you want to make a casserole, stew, pot roast, slow roast or soup.

possible. Ultimately these cuts are cheaper, but they are still coming from a premium product, so you shouldn’t worry about using these different cuts for fear of the meat being chewy or tough. The right cut for the right dish achieves the best results – have a chat with your butcher. At Jon Thorner’s the friendly team are always happy to advise on what will work best for your dish.

01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk Twitter: @JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorner’s

The cheaper cuts are very much on trend at present, partly due to our economic situation, but possibly because of celebrity chefs advocating them in their latest recipes. Either way, the rise in popularity is fantastic, and makes for more varied and interesting dishes.

Everyone loves a fillet steak for its melt-inthe-mouth properties – but you can achieve the same satisfaction in a dish using oxtail or shin of beef. These ‘cheap’ cuts originate from parts of the animal that are more active and muscular; therefore it has more connective tissue, which needs a slower cooking process to tenderise it.

Another worry concerning cheaper cuts is that they will be more fatty. There are cuts that will always have more fat – which actually adds fantastic flavour to a slowcooked dish – but in many cases the butcher can, or will, remove and trim back excess fat, producing a much leaner product.

On these long, cold winter nights, there are few things more satisfying and ultimately rewarding than a tasty slow-cooked stew full of tender meat and root vegetables.

Jon Thorner’s is synonymous with quality and they locally source as much of their meat as 8

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03/02/2012 18:28

> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

fab foodie reads THE FABULOUS BAKER BROTHERS WELCOME TO THE DELICIOUS WORLD OF FLOUR, FIRE AND FOREARMS

PICK OF THE MONTH!

Headline, £20

In this stunning accompaniment to the Channel 4 series, brothers Tom and Henry Herbert reveal the baking secrets that have been in their family for five generations. Tom Herbert is a master baker and Henry runs the butcher’s next door. Together they are an unstoppable force, cooking up fabulous twists on popular classics at Hobbs House, Gloucestershire. The Fabulous Baker Brothers is packed full of hearty goodness and inspiring recipes, essential baking staples and a plethora of meat and baking preparation techniques based around the oven. It’s not all about bread though – the collection comprises original fillings, tempting toppings and unusual accompaniments that will bring in stacks of delicious flavours.

FOOD YOU CAN’T SAY NO TO TAMASIN DAY-LEWIS

GOOD HOUSEKEEPING: THE BAKING BOOK Collins & Brown, £25

Quadrille, £20

This irresistible book is packed with recipes for food you just can’t say ‘no’ to. When we are presented with such indulgent food, we inevitably succumb and ask for a second helping. We luxuriate; feel comforted, happy and satisfied. Here is a book filled with good things, some of which you will find familiar but with an original twist while others are entirely new and exciting. Some are special purely because of their unabashed simplicity, using a few of the very best ingredients and disarmingly easy to perfect. Tamasin’s philosophy is all about making the most of foods, especially ingredients in season, rather than spending extravagantly. This is food that you will enjoy cooking: effortless but special, indulgent yet practical and totally, utterly irresistible…

This is the must-have baking book from the team at the Good Housekeeping Institute. Featuring more than 400 delicious, sweet and savoury recipes, this baking compendium has the perfect recipe for every occasion – be it scrumptious scones for afternoon tea, an elaborate cake for a special event or fresh cookies for the biscuit tin. From pizzas to pies, bread rolls to brioches, glazes to gateaux, and much more in-between, no kitchen is complete without Good Housekeeping’s The Baking Book.

VEGGIESTAN SALLY BUTCHER Pavilion, £25

In this upbeat guide to Middle Eastern vegetarian cookery, Sally proves that the region is simply simmering, bubbling and bursting with sumptuous vegetarian traditions and recipes. Written in her trademark engaging and knowledgeable style, Sally takes a fresh look at many of the more exciting ingredients available on our high streets today as well as providing a host of delicious recipes made from more familiar fare. From fragrant Persian noodle rice to gingery tamarind aubergines, pink pickled turnips and rose petal jam, Veggiestan is filled with aromatic herbs and spices, inspiring ideas and all the knowledge needed to cook wonderful vegetarian food.

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25/01/2012 11:48

> flavour in season

CHARRED RHUBARB WITH MACKEREL

Rhubarb

Serves 4 Cut 800g of rhubarb into 5cm long chunks.

In a medium pan bring 500ml chicken stock, 1 bay leaf and 6 pink peppercorns to a simmer and poach the rhubarb for 5 minutes. Remove from the liquid and allow to cool. Reduce the poaching liquid by two thirds till it starts to thicken slightly. Heat a char grill pan and char grill the rhubarb till the bar marks are visible. Pan fry some mackerel fillets and arrange on top of the charred rhubarb and serve with the reduced poaching liquid.

Originally rhubarb would be out of season until spring although we can now enjoy a ‘forced’ variety that is grown in dark conditions producing a tender and less robust crop. Not only does forcing rhubarb provide us with one of the great ingredients of winter warming recipes, but it also provides a much more vibrant, tender and less sour plant. It will need a lot less cooking and sweetening than its hardier outdoor version too.

At their best Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. www.hartley-farm.co.uk Peter Swanepoel has been cooking-up delights in the West Country for several years and continues to inspire with original, heartfelt and stunning recipes.

Follow Peter on Twitter: @chefpeter31

Blood Orange The blood orange is a variation of the everyday orange but with a dark red tinge on both the skin and in the flesh. They are mostly grown in the Mediterranean but are more of a late winter fruit.

In terms of taste the blood orange is slightly more tart than its better-known orange. Enjoy them while you can as they are usually only around for a month or two at this time of year.

BLOOD ORANGE AND STAR ANISE SOUFFLE Serves 4 Pre-heat oven to 200°C. Brush 4 ramekins with softened butter and dust with castor sugar. Place the mould to one side. Mix together 500ml blood orange juice, 2 star anise and 1 tsp of corn flour in a medium pan and bring to a simmer. Allow the mixture to reduce and thicken, strain through a fine sieve and allow to cool. Whisk 3 egg whites to soft peaks and fold into the cold blood orange mixture (careful not to knock the air out of the whites). Fill the ramekins till flush with the top and run your finger around the edge to allow for an even rise. Bake in the oven for 10-12 minutes till golden and risen. Serve immediately.

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04/02/2012 01:43

> flavour in season

Purple Sprouting Broccoli After a bleak winter, finally hints of a milder spring arrive with the bright and bold shades of purple sprouting.

It can require a bit of effort to grow it yourself as it takes a year to establish the plant, but homegrown purple sprouting can be eaten when young and tender. It is also best eaten when just picked, which is another advantage of growing your own, and it is packed with vitamins and minerals.

PURPLE SPROUTING BROCCOLI AND SAFFRON PAKORA Serves 4 Mix together 250g strong flour, 8 saffron filaments, 10g yeast, 5g salt and 150ml sparkling water and place in a warm area to allow the yeast to activate.

Blanch 800g of purple sprouting in salted boiling water and refresh in an ice bath. Strain off the water and allow it to dry before dipping into the °C till pakora batter and deep fry at 180°C golden and crispy. Place onto a tea towel and season with salt and freshly-ground black pepper.

Serve with creme fraiche as a perfect wintery snack.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and our resident South African chef Peter Swanepoel team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

right now Cauliflower Cauliflower shares the same heritage as sprouts, cabbage and kale but is unique in that it is the only one that produces a flower in the form of its white curd. Cauli’s are available in many different varieties such as Romanesco, and can be found in varying colours such as green, purple, brown and yellow.

CAULIFLOWER CHEESE PANNA COTTA Serves 4 Finely chop 300g of cauliflower and place in a medium pan along with 300ml milk, 400ml double cream, 1 bay leaf, sprig of thyme and 40g of gruyere cheese and simmer for 5 minutes to infuse the cream.

Season to taste and strain through a fine sieve. Soak 6 leaves of gelatin in some cold water and add to the warm cream mixture. Transfer to dariol moulds and allow to cool before refrigerating for 3-4 hours till set.

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04/02/2012 01:43

BAKERS & CUTLERS HALLS

While being best known for anything from small family gatherings to large family weddings, Blanc Events can also offer a space in the heart of the city perfect for corporate meetings and dinners.

They offer a choice of three rooms suitable for everything from small business meetings, to large theatre style presentations, up to product launches and canapé receptions.

Clients can tailor their packages according to what they want, and fulfil very modern requirements in a beautiful historic setting.

The day delegate rate of £25 includes the hiring of the room, WiFi, projector and screen and PA system. It also includes tea, coffee, water and biscuits and fruit.

inspired by Raymond Blanc – whether you choose to dine in The Brasserie on the great value lunch menu, have a casual buffet or use one of our other rooms for a formal sit down meal at the end of the day – Blanc Events can cater for everything.

This space is also available for smaller parties on Valentine’s evening on a set menu at £30 a head.

All of your meetings can of course be complemented by the food created and

BAKERS & CUTLERS HALLS, THE FRIARY BUILDING, CABOT CIRCUS, BRISTOL BS1 3DF CALL US: 0117 910 2412 VISIT US: WWW.BLANCEVENTS.COM

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03/02/2012 18:35

askachef: Q

Can you recommend a good chef’s knife for me?

Oliver Richards, Bath

R

on Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie’s and The Muset

by Ronnie. His distinguished career has seen him work in some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe, for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Schooled in classic French techniques, Ron’s modern European cooking style is underpinned with a passion for using the very best seasonal ingredients.

Japanese or European is the first question. Japanese knives are made from the hardest steel, allowing a very sharp edge that will hold. They are also normally lighter. However, I have found that I prefer a knife with a little more weight, and hard steel makes it harder to recover the edge. This Christmas, Santa brought me the best cook’s knife I’ve ever used: a 23cm Wusthof Ikon cook’s knife.

Q

What exactly is veal? And why do people say that it’s cruel to eat it?

James Bunn, Tetbury

Q

I usually place raw fennel directly into my salads, but it’s a different beast entirely when cooked. Can you recommend a preparation?

Georgina Owen, Frome I first discovered cooked fennel when I was a young lad on a skiing trip in the Italian Alps. The fennel was baked in milk and topped with cheese, fennel gratin. I have since refined the recipe.

Cut the 2 large heads of fennel into quarters, remove the core, cook in boiling water for 5-6 minutes and place into a flat dish. Bring 150ml of cream to the boil with 2 cloves of crushed garlic. Pour the cream over the fennel and top with grated Parmesan. Bake for 20 minutes at 180°C and serve.

Q

How do you poach an egg? It’s always been a bit of a mystery to me.

Howard Roberts, Dartmouth

Veal is the meat from a young male calf, which is slaughtered before it eats grass.

Unfortunately, calves were sometimes kept in crates with no space to move and the tendons in the heels were cut. This was to stop the animals from moving around, which in turn kept the meat tender.

Consequently, veal was widely boycotted in the UK, and the value of calves became so low that it is cheaper to put a bolt in the calf’s head rather than take it to market.

Most male dairy calves are now disposed of in an incinerator. What a waste! Look out for British Rose Veal, which has addressed the farming problems and produces a beautiful product from a happy animal.

The secret is to use the freshest of eggs. A touch of vinegar in the water will help to set the white. Crack the egg into a ramekin and gently pour the egg into the water. The bubbles should push the white around the yolk forming a tear shape. For a soft yolk lift the egg from the water after three minutes.

Ronnie’s of Thornbury 0145 441 1137 ~ The Muset by Ronnie 0117 973 7248 ~ www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk 13

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04/02/2012 03:20

Demuths Onion, Cheddar and Thyme Tart This is the perfect recipe for those late winter months when the store cupboard is running low and you are craving something deeply satisfying. I made this one evening when I’d forgotten to go shopping and had my whole family coming round for an early dinner. All I could find was some pastry, onions and eggs. I made this and it was so successful it went straight onto the restaurant lunch menu the next day. As soon as the thyme goes in and the smell wafts up you know you are in for something special. Just serve it with a simple green salad or, as we do in the restaurant, a few Agen prunes.

Onion, Cheddar and Thyme Tart

H

ead chef Richard Buckley of Demuths has a passion for bringing vegetables to the centre of the plate: “I believe that local, seasonal produce should be at the heart of all our food, nothing is more satisfying than taking a beautiful vegetable straight from the field, treating it with respect and serving it to people you care about.”

Demuths Restaurant in Bath has been one of the country’s top vegetarian restaurants for over 20 years and continues to redefine what it means to cook and eat vegetables in our times. They strive to make healthier, tastier, more creative food using the world-class produce grown in the fields around Bath.

2 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX 01225 446059 www.demuths.co.uk

INGREDIENTS

TO MAKE THE PASTRY

125g unsalted butter, softened

1 Cream together the butter and the egg. Add the flour and the salt and mix to form crumbs.

1 medium egg

2 Add the milk and form into a ball. Wrap in cling film and put in the fridge to rest for 30 minutes.

250g flour Pinch sea salt 1 tbsp milk 5 medium brown onions 75g butter 8 cloves garlic 150g vintage cheddar 5 medium eggs 200g double cream 20g thyme Salt and black pepper

3 Grease a 25cm tart case and roll the pastry out to the thickness of a £1 coin, leaving a good amount hanging over the edges. Put into the case and set in the fridge for 20 minutes.

4 Blind bake until crisp and then trim off the edges FOR THE FILLING 1 Slice the onions and fry them in the butter until very soft. Slice the garlic and add it to the onions. Cook gently for four more minutes.

2 Pick and chop the thyme and add it to the onions. Grate the cheddar and mix it with the eggs and cream. Add the onion mix. Season well and bake in the pastry case until just set.

3 Leave to set for one hour before cutting.

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03/02/2012 18:37

THE CO R NE R HOUSE

THE CORNERHOUSE IN FROME IS A POPULAR PRIVATELY-OWNED HOTEL, PUB AND BRASSERIE THAT ATTRACTS DISCERNING LOCALS AND VISITORS ALIKE...

Owner Martin Earley set out with the seemingly simple task of creating a place that he wanted to spend time in. Easier said than done. He has, however, succeeded with aplomb in all facets of The Cornerhouse. Every detail is taken care of and well-thought out, from the luxurious rooms with individual little touches, to the great selection of beers and wines at prices that don’t offend the purse-strings, not to mention the locallysourced produce, expertly cooked with a French influence in The Brasserie, which allows relaxed dining at relaxed prices.

The intimate function room upstairs is the perfect place for hosting dinners and parties for up to 40 people, and is very popular as a private dining room. When dining here, the head chef will be

more than happy to tailor the menu to your requirements, and can cater for all budgets.

Once a month the hotel is also the popular venue of The Cornerhouse Comedy Club, where established comedians famous from the comedy circuit entertain a packed house. As well as this, The Cornerhouse is now well established as a live music venue, and already such stars as Pee Wee Ellis, Jim Mullen, John Law, Yuri Goloubev, Asis Surkis and Zoe Francis have played to enthusiastic cabaret audiences. Add to this the monthly ‘jazz jam’ and ‘soul sessions’, and you have a destination that is sure to delight those of a musical inclination.

There is a lot going on at The Cornerhouse, visit the website for reviews, events and information.

The Cornerhouse | 1 Christchurch Street East | Frome | Somerset BA11 1QA Call: 01373 472042 | Visit: www.thecornerhousefrome.co.uk

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03/02/2012 18:39

Kerry Evans is a chef and nutritional therapist, with years of experience.

During ten years of cooking on private and chartered yachts, Kerry found herself becoming more and more fascinated by the health properties of food, and after leaving yachting full time, she decided to train as a nutritional therapist. Kerry qualified from the college of naturopathic medicine in November 2010, and now combines her love of food and newfound knowledge to help you attain maximum health benefits from your food. This month, Kerry talks to us about her seminal foodie project; In The Pink Cookery School…

In The Pink Cookery School I

n The Pink Cookery School brings together my love of great food and practical, tasty solutions, to help you understand and embrace the foods that will help you increase your wellbeing through your everyday eating choices.

Put very simply, when I think about how different we all look on the outside, I cannot come up with one reason we would not be as different on the inside.

A diet that one person thrives on can make someone else very ill. Energy fluctuations, weight gain or loss, mood swings and allergies can all be signs that the foods we are eating are not the right ones for us. Identifying which foods are causing problems can be tricky, and once identified it can be even harder to make the necessary changes.

Conflicting healthy eating advice, old habits, the constraints of feeding a family or wanting to enjoy an active social life can all impact greatly on your likelihood of successfully making the changes and just as importantly sticking with them, and that is where I step in.

I wanted to help people to overcome these obstacles, to find real solutions to changing their diet to one that is right for them and that will bring long-term health benefits.

Here at In The Pink Cookery School I have a very simple rule; ‘Would I eat this, and would I be happy to serve it to my friends and family’? If not, the recipe does not get used. I introduce you to new ingredients, and make sure they are easy to find in

supermarkets and high street health food stores. I help you understand some of the conflicts around eating advice and how making small but significant changes can have a huge impact. The informal atmosphere and small group size means there is plenty of time to ask questions and get advice that is relevant to your lifestyle and the unique person that you are.

Current courses include dairy-free, gluten--free, cholesterol reduction, healthy snacking and blood sugar control (yes this includes cakes and biscuits) and a more general healthy eating Mediterranean cookery course. 01225 743 386 www.inthepinkcookery.co.uk

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03/02/2012 18:42

> flavour in the pink cookery school

Dairy and gluten-free fish pie Creamy and tasty, it is hard to believe this dish is dairy and gluten free: just as wonderful as the real thing, but with none of the side-effects.

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

250 ml soya milk

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C / 350°F/ gas mark 4. Place the soya milk, oat cream, garlic and white wine in a pan on the hob and bring to the boil for around 10 minutes or until the sauce has reduced by half.

250 ml oat cream 2 garlic cloves, whole but bruised 20g dill 40ml white wine 175g prawns 350g smoked haddock or cod 250g wild salmon 1-2 potatoes, depending on size Salt and pepper to taste 50g pumpkin seeds, roughly chopped Corn flour or other gluten-free flour such as millet, quinoa or buckwheat

2 Thicken the sauce as you would a normal white sauce, by placing some corn flour in a bowl and adding some cold water to form a paste. Mix well ensuring all lumps have disappeared.

Add a little more water until you can easily pour the flour and water mix into the sauce. Keeping the sauce over a moderate heat, stir well and check for consistency. The sauce should form a thick coat on the back of a wooden spoon. Add the chopped dill and check for seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste.

3 Meanwhile prepare the fish by removing any skin or bones and chopping it into chunks. Place the fish in an ovenproof dish. Slice the potatoes very thinly and arrange them on top of the fish starting from the outside of the dish and working your way round towards the centre. Remove the garlic from the sauce then pour over the potatoes.

4 Sprinkle the chopped pumpkin seeds over the top of the potatoes. Cook the pie for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are cooked through. You can check this by poking them with the tip of a sharp knife.

Visit: www.inthepinkcookery.co.uk

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03/02/2012 18:42

FINE WINES

BY THE GLASS T

his month I thought I’d be a little indulgent and take pleasure in writing about a couple of my favourite wines. I have to say that I’m a pretty big fan of all the wines I write about in this column, and I hope some of you are now too.

However there are some wines and ranges that have a certain ‘je ne sais quoi’ which have a regularly refreshed slot in my wine rack.

For me the best thing is finding a producer who you can rely on for a variety of occasions. For an everyday, Tuesday night wine, most of us don’t want to be paying through the nose. Equally, I want a decent option – I want some value in my glass. Then, there are some more special occasions. Whether this is to celebrate the weekend or a special birthday, it’s reassuring to know that when you trade up to the next level, you’re not being ripped off.

So, I was delighted to find one of my favourite producers offering a range of great wines by the glass at two venues in Gloucestershire.

One soapbox of mine (among many) is not being able to find a good, or interesting, wine available by the glass. I understand how difficult it is with the risk of wastage and that a lot of people don’t actually mind which wine they drink, to a point. But I do think it’s a shame when a venue has a fabulous wine range, but if you only want a glass you have to settle for the cheapest stuff on the list.

Rant over. Here we have two beautiful venues with some great wines by the

Flav_46_SW_Clare Morris.indd 18

glass. Even better, they are available until the end of March for the price of their house wines at lunchtimes. Get your post-Christmas detox finished and get yourself out for a treat. Go on, you know you’ll be glad you did!

My producer of choice is synonymous with great quality Burgundy – Louis Jadot. Even entry-level Burgundy isn’t cheap – you’re never going to find it on the three for a tenner deal at the supermarket. In my view, thank god for that. What it means is that the region’s image has never devalued through price, allowing the producers to reinvest in their wineries and vineyards.

My ‘special occasion’ trade-ups are made from the classic grapes of Burgundy (and its next door neighbour – Champagne). If you think you don’t like oaked Chardonnay I would ask you to try a glass of this and forget all the nasty cheap Australian stuff you may have tried in the 90s. Mersault is one of the most approachable wines of the area with a toasty vanilla finish. It’s not quite as ‘big’ as some of the other Burgundian whites so it’s a great wine to try and see what all the fuss is about.

For those of you hooked – move on and try another glass. Puligny Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet are arguably the greatest expressions of the Chardonnay grape in the world. Elegant but rich and powerful, these wines are not for the faint hearted Pinot Grigio drinker.

Amen I say to that, and leave the good stuff to those of us who love it.

03/02/2012 21:31

> flavour title here

Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.

For the red, a Gevry-Chambertain as the headline. Pinot Noir is regarded by some as a ‘thin’ wine, with light fruit and not much else. How little do they know its potential! This is a serious, full-bodied wine with big flavours, body and structure. Good Pinot Noir has the capacity to age for many, many years – evolving into fabulous complex savoury flavours.

But for now, you can try a glass with some seriously powerful fruit and smokiness which I guarantee will stop you in your tracks.

The other reds on offer are first, a Savigny-les-Beaune. Great as an alternative if you want something a little lighter for a particular food match, with beautiful ripe red fruit and a silky texture. And then Jadot’s Beaune 1er Cru – the top grapes of the vineyard – specially made for the 50th anniversary. Another powerful wine here with great depth.

hotel rooms at the same time and enjoy your own countryside retreat for a night or two. For once I’ve found a main course which I think will partner both the full-bodied, nutty whites and the silky, smoky reds – a pumpkin cappalletti with sautéed mushroom and parmesan. Maybe a glass of each to decide your favourite?

From one country retreat to another for our second venue. Calcot Manor (www.calcotmanor.co.uk) is a stunning spa hotel set in sprawling, leafy grounds. You’re spoilt for choice here for food, with either the Gumstool Inn or Conservatory Restaurant both on site. At the Conservatory there’s a Mediterranean influence on its dailychanging menu. For the oaked whites try something like the roasted turbot on the bone, alternatively something like the roast duck with honey and blood orange puree for the Savignyles-Beaune and even sirloin of beef for the heavier reds. Enjoy!

And where to find these wines? Firstly – The Potager restaurant at Barnsley House (www.calcotmanor.co.uk/site/ barnsley-house) is a delightful setting with traditional Cotswold stone with a contemporary edge. Personally I’d take advantage of its equally attractive

www.matthewclark.co.uk

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03/02/2012 21:31

flavour THIS MONTH’S MUST DO, BUY & SEE...

T

o most of us today, Valentine’s Day draws associations and memories of many things; a packet of Love Hearts received in the schoolyard alongside a love note with sentiments expressed via the medium of pasted-in magazine type. Bouquets of red roses – wanted or unwanted. Teddy bears, cards, chocolates, mugs and all the rest of the paraphernalia flogged every year to consumers pressured into proving their undying love by spending more than £6.99 this year. Or alternatively, for the less cynical among us, a meaningful, wellthought-out gesture of affection, warmly accepted. Snogs and candlelit dinners. The list could go on. In short, Valentine’s Day is all about lurve. But this wasn’t always the case.

some legends have it that Valentine was a renegade priest who secretly provided wedding ceremonies for young men, despite the emperor’s law that young men were not to marry, as it would make them less effective soldiers.

Saint Valentine’s Day can be attributed to a priest, Valentine of Rome, who was martyred around the third century under the persecution of the Emperor Claudius.

From then Valentine’s snowballed. In 1400 a special ‘court of love’ was set up in Paris (where else?) to deal with love contracts, betrayals, and violence against women.

In 1797, a British publisher issued The Young Man’s Valentine Writer, which contained scores of suggested sentimental verses for the young lover unable to

For centuries Valentine’s Day was remembered only by the pious, and had no romantic connotations, although

Valentine was executed for this, but on his last night he sent a letter to his beloved. It was a note that read ‘From your Valentine’.

However true or false this fable may be, what is by most historians considered fairly irrefutable is that Valentine’s Day first became known for romance, at least in England, through a poem by Chaucer, Parlement of Foules. Chaucer wrote: “For this was Saint Valentine’s Day, when every bird cometh there to choose his mate.”

compose his own. This, combined with advances in postal technology, gave birth to the notion of mailing Valentines, which eventually morphed into the tradition and industry that we recognise today.

With that in mind, take a trip through our ‘flavour loves’ feature; jam-packed with the best destinations in the South West to spend time with your loved ones, be they long-term partner, romantic interest or dear old mother.

DID YOU KNOW?...

Saint Valentine’s Day is named after one or more early Christian martyrs named Valentine and was established

by Pope Gelasius I in 500 AD. It was deleted from the Roman calendar of saints in 1969 by Pope Paul VI, but its religious observance is still permitted. The day first became associated with romantic love in the circle of Geoffrey Chaucer in the high Middle Ages, when the tradition of courtly love flourished.

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04/02/2012 02:45

flavour

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa Surprise the one you love with a romantic escape. A magnificent Palladian mansion secluded within a private 500-acre hideaway, Lucknam will be a magical destination this Valentine’s. Enjoy a one-night package on Valentine’s Day from £470 per room.

Treat mum this Mother’s Day to a delicious Michelin-starred Sunday lunch in the elegant surroundings of

The Park restaurant at £45 per person.

Greece’s most celebrated chef, Athinagoras Kostakos, will be working alongside Lucknam’s award-winning executive chef Hywel Jones in creating his signature dishes and Greek delicacies in both the Michelin-starred restaurant The Park and The Brasserie, from February 28 – March 3.

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Bath Colerne, Chippenham Wiltshire SN14 8AZ Call: 01225 742777 Visit: www.lucknampark.co.uk

The Tunnel House Nestled between the Cotswold villages of Coates and Tarlton is a real gem of a country pub. With its quintessential façade draped in ivy, The Tunnel House brims with atmosphere and good cheer.

Furnished with oddities and memorabilia from over the decades, this is a pub that you can ease into like a comfy old armchair: familiar and reassuring. There is also a barn available for free hire – great for parties and events.

An excellent choice for wining and dining that special someone on Valentine’s Day, The Tunnel House has a wealth

of hot spots surrounding the venue which are ideal for long romantic rambles. Lovebirds can even hire a tent to camp in the stunning grounds on the edge of the large Hailey Wood.

Don’t forget mother this year with The Tunnel House’s excellent Sunday lunch. It’s guaranteed to knock her off her feet (in the best possible way).

Booking is advised.

The Tunnel House Inn and Barn Tarlton Road, Nr Cirencester Gloucestershire GL7 6PW Call: 01285 770280 Visit: www.tunnelhouse.com

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04/02/2012 02:45

flavour

The Fox

Seagrass

The Fox at Broughton Gifford – at the heart of both the Wiltshire countryside and the Wiltshire dining scene – offers delicious seasonal home-cooked food from local sources, in a warm and friendly environment.

Seagrass is a contemporary and cosy restaurant found on Fish Street, just a few metres up from the harbour beach in St Ives; a lovely seaside town – famous for it’s art and fishing.

The tremendous Sunday lunch at The Fox is the stuff of fables, and where could be better to take your mother on her special day?

In this cosy tavern the dedicated team of chefs are also preparing a sumptuous Valentine’s menu for you to sup in style with your loved one. Booking is advised.

Focused on only using the best seasonal and local produce, head chef Lee Groves (semifinalist Masterchef The Professionals 2010) has created a range of amazing dishes to excite both the palate and the eye.

Dine in style at Seagrass, a fantastic new restaurant.

The Fox The Street, Broughton Gifford Melskam SN12 8PW

Seagrass Restaurant Fish Street, St Ives TR26 1LT

Call: 01225 782949 Visit: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk

Call: 01736 793763 Visit: www.seagrass-stives.com

Martini

Farrell’s Irish Italian

RESTAURANT

CELEBRATE VALENTINE’S DAY At Martini Restaurant in Bath

Great atmosphere, wonderful food, friendly and fun service.

Extensive menu available

Valentine’s Day promises to be something special at Farrell’s Irish Italian, Keynsham.

On offer is a tasty setprice menu for £35.00 per head (à la carte menu also available) to include: a chilled glass of Prosecco on arrival, followed by delights such as a sharing seafood platter of seared scallops, oysters and Guinness to get your Valentine’s evening underway, with homemade truffles and coffee to finish.

To make a reservation call:

01225 460818

www.martinirestaurantbath.com

Farrell’s Irish Italian 44 Temple Street Keynsham, Bristol BS31 1EH

WINNER OF BATH GOOD FOOD AWARD “BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANT”

Call: 0117 9 866 330 Visit: www.farrellsrestaurant.co.uk

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04/02/2012 02:45

flavour

Made By Bob Made By Bob is a restaurant and catering company based in Cirencester, Gloucestershire, ideal for any party or event.

Be it a wedding for 200, or an intimate garden party for 12, Made By Bob can adapt to every situation.

Celebrate Valentine’s Day with Made By Bob! The restaurant is open for a romantic supper from 7pm. Made by Bob offers fabulous food at great prices.

Made By Bob Unit 6, The Cornhall 26 Market Place, Cirencester, Gloucetershire GL7 2NY Call: 01285 641818 Visit: www.foodmadebybob.com

White Pepper Cookery School Cotswold88hotel

White Pepper Cookery School is set in East Dorset on a beautiful beef farm, which recently featured on ITV’s Hungry Sailors.

Cotswolds88hotel is situated in the heart of the beautiful town of Painswick, traditionally known as ‘The Queen of the Cotswolds’.

This 18th-century Palladian house with panoramic views over the Painswick Valley has won a coveted third AA rosette for its restaurant under the guidance of executive head chef Lee Scott, who has cooked for, among others, Tom Cruise and Madonna.

This splendid destination would be ideal for a romantic Valentine’s break, or to treat mum to a lovely meal on Mothering Sunday.

‘Love a Discount’ this month at White Pepper Cookery School. Buy one course and get the second half price on the selected courses below (terms & conditions apply): Just Sauces: February 6, 10am-1pm Sausages: February 9, 6pm-9pm Dinner Party Box: February 13, 6pm-9pm Charcuterie: February 18, 6pm-9pm Pastry Chef: February 20, 6pm-9pm Fish and Shellfish: February 21, 10am-1pm Italian: February 28, 10am-1pm Visit the website for the complete range of courses – treat yourself or give a lovely gift!

Cotswolds88hotel Kemps Lane, Painswick Gloucestershire GL6 6YB

White Pepper Cookery School Wareham Rd, Lytchett Minster, Dorset BH16 6ER

Call: 01452 813688 Visit: www.cotswolds88hotel.com

Call: 07775 742900 Visit: www.white-pepper.co.uk 23

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flavour

The Catherine Wheel The Catherine Wheel is a fine 16th-century inn situated in Marshfield, on the edge of the Cotswolds.

Always a cosy and personal dining experience, The Catherine Wheel is a great destination to treat your loved one to a romantic Valentine’s meal.

For Mothering Sunday, an excellent Sunday lunch menu is available, and contains a number of carnivorous choices, including lamb, beef, sea bass and venison, as well as some great vegetarian options, such as a tasty lentil and nut roast. All mains

are £9.75, and starters and desserts are also available.

Both Valentine’s and Mother’s Day are very popular here, so booking is advised.

Visit The Catherine Wheel for hearty home-cooked food, and a cracking atmosphere.

The Catherine Wheel The High Street, Marshfield SN14 8LR Call: 01225 892220 Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk

T H E WA L N U T T R E E HOTEL RESTAURANT & BAR MOTHERING SUNDAY IS ONE OF THE BUSIEST DAYS OF THE YEAR! Treat your mum to a fabulous three-course meal for only £16.90 per person, including a small memento of the day. Book now to avoid disappointment.

MOTHERING SUNDAY LUNCH 18 MARCH 2012 TO BEGIN Leek & Potato Soup

Roast Pepper & Rocket Ravioli, Parmesan Cream

Homemade Fish Cakes with Tartar Sauce

All Served With Seasonal Vegetables and Potatoes

Homemade Pate, Red Onion Marmalade

SWEETS Individual Lemon Meringue Pie

Pea & Mint Frittata MAIN COURSE Roast Rump of Beef, Yorkshire Pudding Roast Chicken, Homemade Stuffing, Bread Sauce Salmon en Croute, Buttered Spinach

Fresh Fruit Crumble, Homemade Custard Blackmore Farm Ice Cream or Sorbet Cheddar Cheese & Biscuits, Homemade Chutney

3 COURSES £16.90 • CHILDREN (UNDER 12) £ 8.90 The Walnut Tree Hotel • North Petherton • South of Bridgwater • Somerset TA6 6QA 01278 662255 • reservations@walnuttreehotel.com • www.walnuttreehotel.com

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04/02/2012 02:46

THE FOX & HOUNDS The Fox and Hounds is a warm and cosy traditional country pub; built in 1725 as blacksmith’s workshop.

The owners have created a wonderfully pleasant experience here for all to enjoy. ...a memorable experience at Britain’s premier Indian Restaurant

Connoisseurs choice for over three decades Open Daily

The pub strives to create exceptional food, using only local and British ingredients. All the meat comes from small independent farmers specialising in their produce.

Behind the pub there is a fully-refurbished function room, totally independent from the main pub, complete with its own bar and toilet facilities.

This cosy tavern is a great destination for drinks, events or a tasty meal.

4 Argyle Street, Bath, BA2 4BA Tel: 01225 466833 or 464758 www.rajpoot.com

THE FOX & HOUNDS 9 HIGH STREET COLERNE, CHIPPENHAM SN14 8DB CALL: 01225 744847 VISIT: www.foxandhoundscolerne.co.uk

Gascoyne Place serves creative modern British food from seasonal, local and sustainable sources. We offer the best aspects of the pub and restaurant environment with friendly, knowledgeable lunch, pre-theatre and dinner service matched with an extensive beer and wine list, many of which are directly sourced and imported including our multi award-winning house wines.

Gascoyne Place offers a set lunch and pre theatre menu at £13.50 for 2 courses or £17 for 3 courses plus live jazz to accompany dinner every Sunday evening.

SAMPLE FEBRUARY MENU Goats Cheese & Spinach Pithivier, Onion Marmalade, Walnuts Pressed Guinea Fowl & Ham Hock, Pickled Vegetables, Artichoke Crisps River Exe Mussels, West Country Cider & Herb Cream

Pan-Fried Pork Fillet, Pork Belly, Black Pudding, Roast New Potatoes, Parsnip Purée, Caramelised Apples Pan-Fried Fillet of Brill, Spiced Potatoes & Spinach, Emulsion of Vegetables Pearl Barley Risotto of Butternut Squash, Spinach, Red Pesto

Orange Pannacotta, White Chocolate Sauce, Pickled Orange, Pistachio Biscotti Apple & Plum Compôte, Fennel Crumble, Toffee Ice Cream British Artisan Cheeses, Crackers,Tomato Chutney - Westcombe Cheddar, Perl las Blue, Tunworth

Lunch: Monday – Friday 12-2.30pm, Saturday & Sunday 12-3pm Dinner: Monday-Thursday 5.30-9.30pm, Friday 5.30-10pm, Saturday 5.30-10.30pm, Sunday 6-10pm

Gascoyne Place  1 Sawclose  Bath BA1 1EY (directly opposite the Theatre Royal) Call us 01225 445854  Visit us www.gascoyneplace.co.uk

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04/02/2012 02:46

FRONTING THE

HOUSE

J

onathan Bowker, of The Muset by Ronnie, Clifton has the prestigious role as the head of the front of house team. He has pedigree too, having spent eight years as deputy general manager at Thornbury Castle as well as lengthy stints at Bath’s Royal Crescent Hotel and also Newbury Manor.

it became apparent that I was more of a people person and would be more at home meeting and greeting at the front of house.

So I started on that road,and have now worked in the hospitality industry for the last 21 years, predominantly in the food and beverage departments of some of the UK’s leading hotels.

Jonathan’s return to the restaurant, the heart and soul of hospitality, is of great benefit not only to The Muset by Ronnie but also to catering in the South West.

His standards of customer service are unwavering and his passion for great wines and outstanding food is certain to inspire his colleagues.

When I heard that Ronnie was looking for a manager at The Muset by Ronnie, I jumped at the opportunity to board that ship. Of course I’d known for a while about his sister restaurant, Ronnie’s of Thornbury, which has such a fantastic reputation so making the switch from hotel to restaurant was a bit of a no-brainer really. I just felt that I wanted to be part of a bigger project, to help us be known as one of the best places to dine in Bristol.

Front of house was at the back of my mind when first starting out.

Initially I wanted to be a chef, hidden away in the kitchen, but after studying hospitality at college and then university,

Is that the case now? It’s definitely starting to look that way. And now I’m getting

From the first impression to the final goodbye, the front of house manager has his work cut out to deliver that experience we are all looking for…

immense job satisfaction from being part of a team that creates an incredible and unforgettable experience for our guests.

Helping those around me to develop and better themselves is of great importance to me. We scratch one another’s backs.

Throughout the years, I’ve worked with a huge number of industry professionals, and some of my proudest moments have been congratulating former team members on their recent promotion or new job placement. It sounds clichéd I know; but the hospitality industry is such a small world; if you don’t know someone, you will know someone who does!

When considering oneself for a front of house position, personality is key. It’s probably more of a trait than a skill – not everybody feels comfortable dealing with the public and this is a people industry.

The unsociable hours are not suited to

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03/02/2012 19:36

> flavour fronting the house

When considering oneself for a front of house position, personality is key. I consider it to be more of a trait than a skill – not everybody feels comfortable dealing with the public and this is a people industry.

everyone and it’s more a way of life than a job; to succeed you need to be passionate and excited about great food, fine wines and good service.

I’d say that one of the first things to learn about service is that it always starts with a smile and eye contact: You must read your guests well and understand what they are expecting from their experience.

Service needs to be attentive without being obtrusive; a couple on their first date, a business lunch and a single diner will all have different requirements, and it’s the skill of a good restaurant team to identify and provide for these guests. I also think it’s nice to try to provide a little education for our guests, whether that’s about wines, cider or seafood. The guest can come away with more than just a full belly – it’s important to make their dining experience as memorable, informative and as much fun as possible.

WIN – DINNER FOR TWO Flavour and The Muset by Ronnie, in Clifton, Bristol, has teamed-up to offer one lucky reader the chance to win dinner for two at this Clifton stronghold. To enter, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with The Muset by Ronnie in the subject heading, and include your full contact information and details on where you picked up your copy of flavour. Best of Luck!

The Muset by Ronnie | 12–16 Clifton Road | Clifton | Bristol BS8 1AF Call: 0117 973 7248 | Visit: www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk 27

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03/02/2012 19:36

The Potting Shed Elizabeth Mytton takes a trip to the village of Crudwell in the Cotswolds to sample a local favourite.

O

n a cold January evening, I ventured out to Crudwell, a picturesque village in the centre of the Cotswold triangle of Tetbury, Malmesbury and Cirencester. My mission was to find The Potting Shed, a dining pub which, according to its website, promised “great and seasonal British food”, and, “the proper pub experience”. I was intrigued, and in view of these claims, had high expectations.

My first impression was a positive one. The Potting Shed is set in gardens which I later found out are used to cultivate fruit and vegetables for use in the restaurant. They are aligned with the slow food movement, which stipulates that produce should be

locally sourced, and this is a value that the owners have honoured from the start, along with a commitment to community investment, evidenced by their creation of ten raised beds for use by local people.

After all, The Potting Shed is first and foremost a local pub, set in the heart of a small community. It was acquired in 2007 as a sister company to the impressive Rectory Hotel 100 metres up the road, but needed some work before it could be opened to an eager public. “It was a huge job,” according to owner, Jonathan Barry, who along with his business partner Julian Muggridge, had to completely gut the place. “It took us six months to complete the conversion.”

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03/02/2012 18:45

> flavour the potting shed

The transformation is impressive, and though retaining all the traditional features, The Potting Shed is anything but ‘run of the mill’. The décor is clean and evokes a rustic charm, with its exposed beams and trusses, cream and duck egg tones, stone floors and open fire. These are juxtaposed with contemporary light fittings, black and white photography and artwork, and eye-catching ornaments and curios to stimulate the imagination and add humour to the atmosphere. Though classified as a ‘gastro-pub’, this is a label

I did ask for small portions, but this is not something that The Potting Shed find easy to do – generosity is their mainstay...

that The Potting Shed wears loosely, with a clear personality and style of its own that transcends commonality and defies categorisation.

The atmosphere is one of efficient calm, with attentive and knowledgeable serving staff. Less than five minutes into my visit, I was overcome by an intense feeling of warmth. Could it have been the roaring fire I was seated next to, fuelled by hefty, fragrant logs? Or was it the indulgent pear martini that I finished a little too quickly while perusing the tempting menu?

Whatever the reason, I was grateful to be thawed out, and sat back ready to enjoy, along with my dining partner, my meal for the evening.

We dispensed with decorum, and ordered three starters. I was captivated by the fish boudain, with beetroot purée and crispy shallot rings, closely followed by the buttery smoothness of the Jerusalem artichoke ravioli, served with a butternut squash purée. It was so pretty I took a photo! We shared the cheese fondue, served with local meats and pickles in pared-down fashion on a wooden slab.

For mains, the menu nods to traditional pub fare with dishes such as the beerbattered pollack and triple-fried chips with mushy peas, but there are exciting departures such as the delicate and soft herb gnocchi, which showcase the breadth, skill and creativity of head chef Tom Cochrane, along with sous chefs John Thomlinson and Julian Nathanson, to great effect. I had the seared fillet of red snapper with chunky bacon and bean cassoulet – comfort food at its best.

At this stage, I was full, but being the proud owner of two stomachs – a savoury and a sweet one – I was happy to order a selection of desserts. What some might see as greedy, I prefer to call a challenge, and to be honest, when faced with three of my favourite desserts (albeit in a more sophisticated package) I was not about to be coy for fear of appearing the glutton. I did ask for small portions, but this is not something that The Potting Shed find easy to do – generosity is their mainstay, and so I went with the flow. The rum and raisin baked Alaska looked exquisite, and tasted even better, a must for pudding lovers with a sweet tooth. This was followed by apple pie (individually baked to perfection, with a thin pastry lid that I couldn’t help playing with) served with a hot toffee

sauce and Muscovado ice cream. One word – gorgeous.

With my palate still dancing with flavours, I sampled the set chocolate caramel, along with toffee popcorn and salted caramel ice-cream. This desserts was so delicious it rendered me speechless – clichéd you might think, but completely true. The only thing that stopped me devouring the whole portion in one final swoop was the fact that my dining partner got there first.

There is a sense of pride at The Potting Shed – they know they are good, and it shows. There are the framed awards, such as Highly Recommended Cheeseboard in Britain’s Best Cheeseboard competition 2011, and The Good Pub Guide Awards for National New Pub of the Year 2010, National Dining Pub of the Year 2011 and National Pub of the Year 2012. But there was other evidence too. The dining room was full, the diners were smiling, glasses were being clinked, and laughter could be heard from locals in the bar area, though there was no real sense of separation. It is this inviting atmosphere, along with a deep-rooted excellence that permeates everything it does, that boasts on behalf of The Potting Shed, and will guarantee the return of its patrons, year after year. I’m already planning my next visit! The Potting Shed Pub The Street Crudwell Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 9EW 01666 577833 www.thepottingshedpub.com

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03/02/2012 18:45

Flav_46_SW_Recipe Feature.indd 30

03/02/2012 19:16

love

food

With recipes for moreish breakfast treats, easy soups and salads, hearty lunch offerings, flavour packed suppers and delightfully decadent puddings, Love Food is the culinary equivalent of a lovely long hug.

M TINA BESTER Pavilion £12.99

Many of the recipes have been passed down through the generations, with Tina Bester giving them her trademark twist. Recipes like old-school spaghetti and meatballs, or retro-inspired lamb chops with cornflake crumbs are bound to become legends in your own household. Tina doesn’t mind if her pastry’s wonky – in fact this self-proclaimed ‘no rules girl’ prefers it that way. Love Food reflects Tina’s travels from a ‘no bake’ cook to a purveyor of home-baked treats made the old-fashioned way but with a Queen of Tarts modern twist.

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> flavour love food

potato and bacon frittatas Surprisingly simple to make, these are always crowd pleasers at brunch.

INGREDIENTS 3 potatoes, peeled and diced | 4 slices streaky (lean) bacon | 6 large eggs | 250ml/8fl oz/1 cup fresh cream 30g/1oz/¼ cup freshly-grated Parmesan cheese | Salt and freshly-ground black pepper

METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 180˚C/350˚F/Gas mark 4. Lightly butter 12 muffin cups.

2 Cook the potatoes in salted water until tender, drain and divide evenly among the muffin cups.

3 Cut each slice of bacon into three pieces and place a piece on top of the potatoes in each muffin cup.

4 Mix together the eggs, cream, Parmesan and a good grinding of salt and pepper.

5 Carefully fill the muffin cups with the egg mixture and then bake for 20–25 minutes until firm.

(makes 12)

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> flavour love food

parmesan-crusted chicken burgers The crust is made using a decadent mix of grated Parmesan, fresh parsley and fresh breadcrumbs. Delicious served with rocket, chives and hot mustard mayonnaise.

INGREDIENTS 200g/7oz/scant 1½ cups dried breadcrumbs | 50g/1¾oz/generous ¾ cup parsley, finely chopped 50g/1¾oz/½ cup grated Parmesan cheese | Salt and pepper | 4 skinless chicken breast fillets | Flour for dusting 2 large eggs, lightly beaten | Olive oil for frying | 4 fresh bread rolls | Fresh rocket (arugula) leaves, to serve | Fresh chives, to serve

METHOD 1 Combine the breadcrumbs, parsley and Parmesan in a bowl.

2 Salt and pepper the chicken breasts and dip them in the flour, then in the beaten egg and finally coat with the breadcrumb mixture.

3 Fry them in olive oil until just done (about 3–4 minutes on each side).

4 To make the mustard mayonnaise, combine the mayonnaise with the mustard.

5 To assemble the burgers, warm the rolls in the oven for a few minutes, spread liberally with the mayonnaise, top with rocket and chives and add a crisp chicken breast to each one.

(makes 4)

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> flavour love food

moussaka One of those dishes of which one helping is never enough – and eaten by the spoonful straight out of the fridge the next day, it’s even better!

INGREDIENTS Salt and freshly-ground black pepper | 4 aubergines (eggplants), sliced Olive oil | 8 potatoes, peeled | 1 portion basic mince mixture Ground nutmeg | Béchamel sauce | 125g/4½oz/generous ½ cup butter 125g/4½oz/generous ¾ cup flour | 1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups milk

METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 180˚C/350˚F/Gas mark 4. Season the aubergine and fry in the olive oil until just crispy.

2 Boil the potatoes until tender, allow to cool and then slice lengthways.

3 To assemble the moussaka, layer the mince, aubergine and potatoes and then repeat the layers, ending with a layer of mince.

4 Pour the béchamel sauce over the moussaka and dust with a little nutmeg.

Bake for 30 minutes until it starts to bubble around the edges.

Serve with fluffy basmati rice.

5 To make the béchamel sauce, melt the butter in a pot, add the flour and combine well. Slowly add the milk, stirring it with a whisk to remove any lumps. Cook the sauce until it has thickened, stirring it all the time.

(serves 8)

bread and butter pudding The buttered croissants make this dish extra indulgent – leave it to stand for at least an hour before baking to ensure that the custard soaks into every nook and cranny.

INGREDIENTS 4 croissants, sliced | Butter | Apricot jam (jelly) | 2 tablespoons raisins 3 large eggs | 100g/3½oz/½ cup sugar | Pinch of nutmeg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract | 500ml/17fl oz/2 cups warm milk

METHOD 1 Cut the croissants into diagonal slices and spread butter and jam on each slice. Layer them in a lightly greased baking dish and sprinkle each layer with raisins (but don’t put raisins on the top, as they will burn).

2 Beat the eggs, sugar, nutmeg and vanilla together in a bowl and then pour the warm milk onto the egg mixture, beating all the time. Make sure that all the sugar has dissolved.

3 Pour the mixture through a strainer and then pour it over the croissants and allow it to stand for at least 1 hour before cooking. (This is important otherwise it ends up tasting very ‘eggy’.)

4 Preheat the oven to 180˚C/350˚F/Gas mark 4 while the pudding is standing and bake for about 30–45 minutes.

(serves 6–8) 34

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03/02/2012 19:16

The Grand Hotel, Torquay At the heart of the English Riviera  Spectacular seafront location  Award-winning food, featuring the very best local produce  Dinners, lunches, light bites and traditional Devonshire cream teas  132 individually-appointed bedrooms, many with stunning sea views  Excellent leisure facilities, including indoor and outdoor heated pools, gym and sauna

The Grand Hotel, Seafront, Torquay TQ2 6NT

Freephone: 0800 005 2244

E: reservationsgrandtorquay.co.uk I W: www.grandtorquay.co.uk

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the

teen chef James Underdown – flavour’s 14-year-old budding chef – has been back in the kitchen this month to serve up another one of his mouthwatering treats.

My cooking highlight recently has been preparing a three-course meal for seven people on Christmas Eve, which consisted of carrot soup, followed by duck with dauphinoise potatoes and gem lettuce, and chocolate mousse to finish. I’ve even made a chocolate cake in the microwave at school, which I had no idea you could actually do. Well, they say you learn something new every day…

So this month’s recipe is something I’ve only just been introduced to by my parents, who brought it back from their travels around Europe and North Africa long before I was around. This one hails from Morocco. The soup has lovely chunks of lamb and whole chickpeas in a delicious base. It may take a while to cook, but it’s easy to prepare and so worth it!

Moroccan lamb and chickpea soup Ingredients 500g of lamb Olive oil 2 chopped onions 2 crushed cloves of garlic 1 tsp of ground cumin 2 tsp of paprika 1 tsp of cinnamon 1 bay leaf 2 tbsp of tomato purée 1 litre of beef stock 850g of chickpeas (or 2 tins) 1 800g tin of chopped tomatoes Juice of half a lemon Coriander Crusty bread to serve

Method 1 Cut the lamb into bite-sized chunks and trim any unwanted bits of fat. Heat the olive oil in a large pan or stockpot, add in the onion and garlic, and cook at a low heat for five minutes. Add the meat and increase the heat a tad. Stir until the meat changes colour.

2 Add the cumin, paprika, cinnamon and the bay leaf and cook until it smells fragrant. Add the purée and cook for a further two minutes, stirring all the time. Add the stock, stir and bring to the boil.

3 Drain and rinse the chickpeas and add them to the pot along with the tomatoes, lemon and some of the coriander. Continue to stir and bring to the boil again.

Reduce the heat and let it simmer for two hours. Taste every now and then and add seasoning if necessary.

Dish into bowls and sprinkle the remaining coriander on top. Serve up with bread and enjoy...

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04/02/2012 02:55

flavour

drops by

Avenue Café Costa Kkolos, founder of the original Avenue Café on the corner of Queen Square, has recently re-opened in Emerson’s Green aided by his wife Flora.

Costa also runs the Henleaze site with his sister Chrysso: With this strong family ethos, it’s clear that the Kkolos family live by the maxim ‘blood is thicker than water’.

Costa says, “we are very much a close family business, and pride ourselves on treating customers like extended family members – service is key!”

The Avenue Café has had its roots in Bristol for the last twelve years and has been at the forefront of the cities burgeoning café scene. Having influenced a number of individuals to open their own café businesses, the Avenue Café

The Avenue Café style and quality has become something of a benchmark amongst Bristol’s café society.

continues to set its own high standards and prides itself on providing quality products and service.

“We offer a contemporary setting where you can find great coffee and homemade cakes, offering an extensive all-day breakfast menu, as well as an array of classic café cuisine, from sandwiches to paninis, pasta dishes to delicious risottos and a variety of daily specials”.

The Avenue Café runs a great value set menu where you can choose any dish from the specials menu together with a glass of wine or beer, including a cake and coffee all for the set price of £9.95. Popular dishes include Italian meatballs in tomato sauce on pasta, and grilled halloumi and chorizo salad.

“After a successful spell of opening evenings in December we are pleased to announce that the Café will be opening for dinner on Fri/Sat evenings soon and also on Sundays for brunch”.

Whether you fancy just a coffee and a cake, a snack, a full meal or possibly to share a bottle of wine, Costa and his family have a venue that will keep you coming back for more. ■

112 Emerson Way Emerson’s Green Bristol BS16 7AS 0117 3050 505 www.avenue-cafe.com 37

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03/02/2012 22:00

> flavour hip hops

MICROBREWERIES

� hip hops �

A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also Editor of the website britishpubguide.com

A

few months back, flavour featured a piece on how real ale is bucking the current economic downturn and, despite competitive pressure from supermarket shelves stacked high with cheap lager, drawing more and more discerning drinkers towards the ‘quality’ end of the beer market.

But even within this success story, there is one sector that is forging ahead, and acting as a standard bearer for independent, local producers holding their own against the might of the regional, national and often multi-national giants in their sector: Small, independent breweries, and microbreweries, are springing up all over the country providing locally produced beers which not only taste great; they also provide real income to local communities, and offer just the gentlest but most noble resistance to the march of globalisation.

According to industry body The Society of Independent Brewers (SIBA), there are now well over

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ON THE RISE

700 breweries operating in the UK and the vast majority of these are small, independent concerns brewing only a limited quantity for a market within a 30-mile radius of the brewery.

In its broadest sense, consumption of beer is falling, if by beer you mean all those alcoholic beverages that are usually sold in pints. But this disguises the fact, among the little guys, that the independent breweries are showing a rise in sales of maybe five or six per cent.

Certainly a small but significant shift away from the heavily promoted keg bitters and lagers towards cask-conditioned beer is evident across the industry.

To meet the increasing demand for cask beer, it is estimated that three or four new small breweries are launched every month.

Experts are divided as to the main cause.

One contributing factor is tax based. It always used to be the case that all breweries had to pay the same excise duty on the beer they produced. This was much easier on the bigger breweries, whose economies of scale meant beer tax was a much smaller proportion of their outgoings, while for the one-man-andhis-dog operations it loomed large on every balance sheet. This rule was changed in 2002,

03/02/2012 20:48

> flavour hip hops

since when Progressive Beer Duty means that breweries that produce less than a threshold level of beer have to pay less duty on a sliding scale.

But it would be nice to think that this rise in smaller breweries is also down to that shift away from globalisation.

People like to know where their food and drink comes from. So locally produced beers using ingredients sourced (where possible) from nearby suppliers appeal to people’s sense of pride in their community. It is also a widely-held belief that mass produced beers are not made with the same care as beers produced by devoted craftsman who are in the business more for the love of beer and brewing than to satisfy the dividend expectations of shareholders.

In addition, the global and national giants tend to mass-buy their ingredients in order to keep costs down, and many use more corn, maize and hop extracts in their brews. Typically, the craft end of beer production will be choosier, using the variety of barley that gives their beers a better flavour, and maybe using whole

hops to give a fuller and more rounded finish to their beers.

Another reason for the growth of these independent concerns is tourism. Not that many people will travel from all over the world to visit a new microbrewery (though I’m sure some do), it’s more the local associations that are made by the names of the beers. If a visitor (or a resident for that matter) walks into the pub and sees a beer that evokes a nearby landmark, piece of heritage or local hero, that person is more likely to feel an affinity with that beer.

So whatever the reason for the growth in small, independent real ale breweries, the effect on those of us who drink the stuff is a massive increase in choice, and a bewildering array of different styles and flavours of beer to sample. Maybe it’s the stamp-collecting, train-spotting twitcher in me, but there is something uplifting about walking into a pub and thinking “Ooh, I’ve never had that one before, and it’s brewed just round the corner.” And long may it continue to be so.

Facts Over 8.5 million people in Britain now drink cask ale, and it now has a larger share (15.8%) of the on-trade beer market than at any time since the turn of the millennium The Cask Report revealed that 68% of people consider real ale to be

Britain’s national drink

The number of women who’ve sampled the delights of real ale has doubled from 16% to 32%

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> flavour hip hops

, Don t lose your bottle For those who struggle to tell their Leffe from their Knights, this month Clare Morris offers up a helping hand for enjoying bottled beers at their best...

I

count myself lucky to live in this country because, among other things, we have a fantastic heritage of brewing delicious, complex ales – yet we’re near enough to the continent to steal the best of the European selection as well.

The range of beers available to us in the last few years has increased tenfold, and no doubt this is one of the reasons that ale sales are on the increase again. After a generation of growth in lager sweeping the nation, it’s no surprise that our palates are unused to the more traditional style

of beer that formed the foundation of our world-famous British pub trade. But now, everywhere you look you can find a myriad of mysterious looking bottles and easily lose yourself for an afternoon in a quest to get better acquainted with the whole range.

There is so much choice, in fact, that the whole category becomes almost as complex as wine; a bit mind-boggling when you’re trying to decide on your next drink at the bar. Here’s a whistle-stop tour of a few very different options to help out.

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> flavour hip hops

a generation ❝ofAfter growth in lager sweeping the nation, , it s no surprise that our palates are unused to the more traditional style of beer that formed the foundation of our world-famous British pub trade

❞

I’m hoping most of you will be familiar with my first brewery.

If you aren’t, you should be.

Black Sheep Brewery in Masham, North Yorkshire, has only been around for 18 years, but for Head Brewer Paul Theakston, his craft has been in the family for a long time.

After Theakston’s beers were bought by Scottish and Newcastle in 1987, he decided to set up on his own, to make beer in the time-honoured fashion as his family had done. The Black Sheep name was coined by Paul’s wife, to reflect the stance they had taken against the big breweries, and a nod to the other residents in the town of Masham – the sheep. There’s a beer to suit pretty much everyone’s taste – from the light, refreshing tasting Best Bitter – my personal favourite – or the foreversummer, blonde beer-style Golden Sheep, the rich and fruity Black Sheep Ale or dry, citrussy Yorkshire Square Ale, through to the winter-perfect espresso, liquorice flavours of the ruby brown Riggwelter.

When cooking, the most obvious pairing for a great-quality ale is to add a good dollop to your steak pie or beef stew, and drink a bottle alongside it.

Onwards now to another great beer brewing country – Belgium. Known as the ‘Champagne of Belgium’ Trappist beers were brewed by monks who used their brewing to sustain them during periods of fasting, especially as water alone could often be contaminated.

Only a few beers in the world are allowed to carry the Trappist name, because they are still made in the monasteries and all proceeds are ploughed back into the monastery and the monks’ charity and social work.

Whatever your views on this may be, you can be certain of the quality of the beer you’ll be getting with this stamp of authority, with an

incredible complexity of taste, yeasty breadiness, sustained sweetness, fruit, hops, herbal and floral aromas. Try Chimay – the most famous of the Trappist beers, its Red variety with a coppery colour and apricot aroma, Blue with light malt and a flowery rosy touch, and the golden Triple, with fruity muscat and raisin flavours.

One great thing about beer is the opportunity for experimentation with ingredients. Barley is usually chosen because it is easy to grow and therefore readily available, and is easy to drink. But adding a percentage of other ingredients dramatically alters the style of the beer and adds a multitude of fabulous flavours. Wheat beers are one such example. Predominantly from the German ‘weissbier’, the style involves mixing at least 50 per cent wheat to barley malt, which gives the characteristic cloudy appearance and incredible citrus and often banana flavours and aromas. Hoegaarden is probably the best known and made in the traditional Dutch style with coriander and dried orange peel as additional ingredients.

For a German-styled beer that’s very easy to drink, go for Erdinger – fantastic in the bottle but even better on draught.

Finally another great variety of flavours to try in the world of beers. Fruit beers most commonly use raspberries or cherries, and traditional Belgian cherry beers are called Kriek which involve fermenting the beer with sour Morello cherries, or Framboise with raspberries.

Modern breweries often only add the fruit flavours to the beer after it is finished, but for increased flavour and complexity I’d go for the Belgian varieties every time. Even better when partnered with food, my suggestion is to try either of these with a dark chocolate dessert – the tart flavours of the fruit, with the underlying sweetness of the beer, are a great match for the bitter, luscious flavours of the dark chocolate. And don’t be adverse to trying this with a good old-fashioned cheese board with a few other styles of beer alongside.

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> flavour hip hops

BOX STEAM BREWERY Box Steam Brewery is a family-run producer of artisan, handcrafted real ales, available in both bottle and cask to licensed trades and independent retailers across the UK.

D

ue to growing demand for their handcrafted beers, Box Steam Brewery has outgrown its current premises and moved into a new production centre in Holt, Wiltshire. Legendary 80s pop impresario Pete Waterman opened the 800 square metre facility, saying; “Box Steam Brewery combines my two greatest loves in life: beer and railways – and I’ve been imbibing their real ales for many years. I wish them all the best for the future.”

Local heritage is hugely important to the brewery and they hope to utilise the extra production capabilities of the new site to meet growing demand, and to push the sales of their beers further afield, including increased sales in the south.

The inspiration for the delicious beers is taken from Isambard Kingdom Brunel, the famous 19th-century engineer who built the Clifton Suspension Bridge.

Visit: www.boxsteambrewery.com

2701 BOX_Generic_Ad_P_170x116_Layout 1 02/02/2012 09:44 Page 1

At the home of Brunel’s SS Great Britain, visitors can admire in close-up the great engineer’s attention to detail from the bow to the stern – details that made the powerful steamship a miracle of her time.

Experience our handcrafted beer and admire our minute attention to details like taste, texture and character, from the top of your glass right through to the hull. A miracle indeed!

www.boxsteambrewery.com

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03/02/2012 20:48

home GROWN

For a food and drink festival with the perfect setting, stunning food stalls and countless famous faces this year’s Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink — on April 13–15 — promises to be a weekend of culinary delights, celebrating all that is delicious about the South West.

Co-founded by two-star Michelin chef Michael Caines, and now in its ninth year, the festival offers something for everyone – from dedicated foodies to families. It’s the perfect excuse for a weekend foodie escape to Exeter.

Rub shoulders with the professionals and visit the Festival Cookery Theatre with over 30 top chefs including the UK’s best chef Michael Caines MBE; seafood genius and two-Michelin star chef Nathan Outlaw; BBC Saturday Kitchen favourite Mitch Tonks and top vegetarian MasterChef finalist Jackie Kearney.

From cheese and chocolate to chutney and cider, the three-day festival is the chance to eat your way through the finest produce

from over a hundred regional producers in two huge food pavilions.

Get involved in bread making and apple pressing and a host of other hands-on, family-friendly workshops, masterclasses and activities from artisan food producers and chefs in the Food is Fun teepees and keep the chefs of the future entertained in the Little Cookies children’s area.

If that wasn’t enough, when the sun goes down, enjoy a unique night out at the Festival After Dark events on Friday and Saturday nights with a perfect blend of live music, more delicious regional food, chef demos and real ales.

The Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink is held each year in the beautiful grounds of Northernhay Gardens surrounding Exeter Castle.

New for 2012 is the chance to indulge in fine dining at a range of Gourmet on the Go pop-up restaurants serving South West signature dishes to festivalgoers and the chance to pick up advice on herb, vegetable and fruit gardening and barbecue cooking tips in the Fermoy’s Grow Your Own area.

Visit: www.exeterfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk Flav_46_SW_Exeter Festival.indd 43

03/02/2012 22:03

flipping marvellous

BY MEGAN OWEN

A

s we gladly wave goodbye to January, the depressing month of resolution breaking, penniless pockets and colder weather, we leap into the month of love, red roses and pancakes – the only cake (after an over-indulgent festive season) that many of us would wish to resemble – thin and flat.

Symbolising the first day of the fasting season referred to as Lent, Pancake Day, otherwise known as Shrove Tuesday, is historically the day when Christian families empty their cupboards and fridges of over-indulgent ingredients.

For 40 days after Shrove Tuesday, in the lead up to Easter (Ash Wednesday to Good Friday), Christians replicate the sacrifice that Jesus Christ made when he went into the desert, by engaging in prayer and cleansing, and by abstaining from eating foods such as fat, sugar and eggs, in addition to meat and fish.

Nowadays, Lent, although still seen by many as a religious season of reflection and self-deprivation, tends to involve people torturing themselves for a tedious 40 days as they try hard to surrender

favourite foods or habits from their lives, such as chocolate, cigarettes, or crisps.

This approach is coupled with a more commercial and casual stance on Shrove Tuesday, with supermarkets placing lemon juice, golden syrup, and easy-tomake pancake batter in prime locations on their shelves (which ironically also encourages people to take the ingredients into their home, rather than using them up).

While some people may disagree with the shift that has occurred over time, as a pancake lover myself, I enjoy and join the push for the tasty batter-based product.

For many, Pancake Day, which this year falls on Tuesday 21st February, will be the only day of the year when the standard ingredients of flour, eggs and milk are whisked into a creamy batter and poured into a hot pan.

Throughout the UK, houses will be filled with over-excited children and competitive parents, as families engage in pancake tossing challenges and eating contests.

At the end of the day, many will feel overindulged and probably very understanding

of why the day is also referred to as ‘Fat Tuesday’. But, what I want to know is why are pancakes not enjoyed more often?

As a versatile and simple food product, pancakes are not just beautiful when they are married with lemon and sugar.

Easily suited to a range of flavours and ingredients, from cheese and red onion to Mexican five bean chilli, they can also be the perfect alternative to bread or pastry in a main meal. So why don’t you experiment? Next time you fancy fajitas, a pie or even pizza for dinner, try folding or rolling your preferred fillings or toppings into a pancake instead. You could also try adding fresh herbs to the batter to enhance the flavour of your meal.

Be daring, and try new things – if you don’t invent a new favourite for the nation, you may find one for your family.

So, enjoy Pancake Day and good luck for Lent. I hope after experimenting you will join me in cheering for pancakes all year round, as I think they’re flipping marvellous, and so should you!

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03/02/2012 22:07

walk, shop & eat around...

malmesbury

Malmesbury is a beautiful hilltop town; built in golden Cotswold stone and surrounded by the River Avon, it sits at the southern entrance to the Cotswolds and makes for a splendid welcome to the region.

Nearby Wiltshire v illages Sherston, Corsham and Tetbury all possess their own individual charms, and each is home to a plethora of fantastic restaurants, cafés and hotels for the intrepid visitor to enjoy.

This stunning part of Southern England encompasses quintessential country life at its finest – well worth a detour or a holiday break.

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04/02/2012 02:24

> flavour malmesbury

The Smoking Dog The Smoking Dog is a town centre pub situated on the high street in the picturesque town of Malmesbury. This traditional Cotswold stonefronted venue was built in the 17th century, and although quite snug inside it has a large family beer garden to the rear.

The clientele is varied but generally it’s popular with professionals in their midtwenties and is held in high esteem locally due to the freshlymade homestyle food served from an imaginative bespoke menu and specials board. All

food is cooked to order using the freshest ingredients with sausages from a local butcher being a very popular dish.There is a fantastic choice of wines and real ales to accompany your meal.

The Smoking Dog holds an annual Sausage and Beer Festival in May, well worth a visit!

It is highly recommended that you try out this delightful picturesque pub where everyone is given a warm welcome.

The Smoking Dog, 62 High Street, Malmesbury,Wiltshire SN16 9AT Call: 01666 825823 Visit: www.pub-explorer.com/wiltshire/pub/smokingdogmalmesbury.htm

Pickwick Lodge Farm Pickwick Lodge Farm is a 17th-century Cotswolds farmhouse set in 350 acres of pristine Wiltshire countryside. The bed and breakfast is rated at four stars – Silver Award – and is home to three beautifully presented rooms, each with its own bathroom.You will be treated to an award-winning breakfast, using the finest of locally-sourced ingredients.

There is also a takeaway breakfast option available for those in a rush.

Pickwick Lodge Farm is well situated – within walking distance of Corsham and close to MOD Corsham, Chippenham, Bath, Castle Combe and National Trust properties.

Echo Food Echo Food is an independent catering business located in the heart of Malmesbury, offering a solution to all your catering needs. Using the freshest ingredients along with their own free-range eggs and homegrown vegetables, they create a perfect blend of delicious and stylish food.

Whether you require imaginative canapés, a bespoke menu for weddings or parties, a dinner party cooked and served in your home or even in their pop-up restaurant, Echo will provide you with professional service and fantastic value for money.

Pickwick Lodge Farm Guyers Lane, Corsham,Wiltshire SN13 0PS

Echo Food, Southgate Cottage 72 High Street, Malmesbury,Wiltshire SN16 9AT

Call: 01249 712207 Visit: www.pickwickfarm.co.uk

Call: 01666 825359 Visit: www.echofood.co.uk

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> flavour malmesbury

The Foxham Inn The Foxham Inn is nestled in the beautiful North Wiltshire countryside, just ten minutes from the M4 junctions 16 and 17.

Proprietors Neil and Sarah extend a warm welcome to all their customers both new and old for real ales, fine wines, light lunches, dinners and Sunday roasts cooked to perfection using fresh local ingredients.

There is disabled access and disabled facilities and the new restaurant is large enough for parties, weddings and other functions.

The Summer Café The Summer Cafe serves delicious, fresh homemade food and Illy espresso coffee.

For lunch there are a range of options including homemade soup, healthy, delicious salads and baked potatoes as well as fresh filled baguettes and panini, with daily specials.

They always have a selection of gorgeous homemade cakes and afternoon teas to tempt you...

As well as luxury en suite rooms, the Foxham Inn has a newly-built restaurant including an open kitchen, which is creating an exciting buzz, and a cosy bar with a roaring log fire.

The Foxham Inn, Foxham, Chippenham,Wiltshire SN15 4NQ

The Summer Cafe 4 High Street, Malmesbury,Wiltshire SN16 9AU

Call: 01249 740665 Visit: www.thefoxhaminn.co.uk

Call: 01666 822639

The Old Bell Laying claim to the honourable distinction of being England’s oldest hotel,The Old Bell, built in 1220, is serenely located adjacent to the medieval abbey in the centre of the historic Cotswold town of

Malmesbury. This beautiful property is steeped in character, it has period features, many cosy nooks and crannies and overall there is a wonderful, quintessentially English feel to this hidden gem of the South West.

 Abraham Lincoln’s family tree can be traced to this town  Eilmer the monk became Europe’s first glider in 1010  The last person to be eaten by a tiger was a Malmesbury resident  Sir John Betjeman described Malmesbury as ‘the queen of hilltop towns’  King Athlestan, the first King of all England, was buried in the abbey

The Old Bell Hotel & Restaurant Abbey Row, Malmesbury,Wiltshire SN16 0BW Call: 01666 822344 Visit: www.oldbellhotel.co.uk 47

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> flavour malmesbury

Whatley Manor Hotel and Spa Whatley Manor Hotel and Spa is located in Easton Grey, just outside Malmesbury, and is set in 12 acres of English country gardens with 26 distinct rooms.

A jewel in its crown is the awardwinning spa Aquarias, offering a host of relaxing spa treatments and one of the largest hydrotherapy pools in the UK. The food at Whatley Manor bursts with flavour and originality, overseen by two-starred Michelin chef Martin Burge.There are two restaurants to choose from; ‘Le Mazot’ the brasserie has a Swiss-chalet-style interior and

open fire that create a wonderful welcoming atmosphere. Look out for the popular Swiss cheese fondue evenings during the week.

For a more formal dining experience try the acclaimed formal restaurant ‘The Dining Room’, where Martin Burge’s French-style with modern interpretation cuisine is worthy of the accolades he has earned.

A programme of wine events and Sunday cinema screenings take place throughout the year and soulful jazz lunches on the odd Sunday too!

Whatley Manor Hotel and Spa, Easton Grey Malmesbury,Wiltshire SN16 0RB Call: 01666 822888 Visit: www.whatleymanor.com

Thomas’s Butchers

Mayfield House Hotel

Thomas’s are a friendly family-run butchers in Malmesbury, (also in Corsham), who make their own sausages on-site. These beautiful bangers – nicknamed ‘The King’ – recently won the exalted accolade of Britain’s Best Sausage!

This lovely, family-run hotel in Crudwell, near Malmesbury, specialises in modern English cuisine, sourcing great local produce which is then prepared by top-notch chefs to offer a true taste of the Cotswolds.

In addition to fresh meat,Thomas’s offers a whole range of olives, pâtés, pies and cooked meats, along with over 100 cheeses.

Each item has been handpicked to ensure that customers receive the very best of Wiltshire and beyond.

The Mayfield House Hotel features private dining in the Stoneroom plus a 60-cover AA Rosette restaurant overlooking a spacious walled garden and afternoon tea terrace – a traditional venue for great Sunday Lunches too!

Relax and enjoy a warm and friendly welcome and fantastic value for money.

Thomas’s Butchers 51 The Triangle, Malmesbury,Wiltshire SN16 0AH

Best Western Mayfield House Hotel Crudwell, Malmesbury,Wiltshire SN16 9EW

Call: 01666 823981 Visit: www.thomasofmalmesbury.co.uk

Call: 01666 577409 Visit: www.mayfieldhousehotel.co.uk

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> flavour malmesbury

The Vine Tree The Vine Tree is a secluded, relaxed haven where everyone is made to feel equally welcome and four-footed friends are positively encouraged!

The innovative seasonal menu features predominately locally sourced food, with lots of fresh West Country fish, seafood and game – with their award-winning wine list (more than 40 wines by the glass) and real ales, they are well worth a visit!

The Rattlebone Inn The Rattlebone Inn is a quaint 16th-century Cotswold village pub with character oozing out of every nook and cranny – it even has a ghost! This quaint country pub boasts delicious country bistro menus featuring the finest local produce and game in season.There is an excellent wine list and an array of award-winning ales.

Sporting three boules pistes and two gardens, as well as being the spiritual home of mangold hurling (don’t ask, find out for yourself),The Rattlebone Inn is a lovely place to be.

In warmer months,The Rattlebone hosts summer food events in the garden; including regular spit roasts (suckling pig or venison have been recent favourites).

The Vine Tree, Foxley Road, Norton Nr Malmesbury,Wiltshire SN16 0JP

The Rattlebone Inn Church Street, Sherston,Wiltshire SN16 0LR

Call: 01666 837654 Visit: www.thevinetree.co.uk

Call: 01666 840871 Visit: www.therattlebone.co.uk

French Grey Kitchens A delightful shop in Malmesbury, French Grey Kitchens stocks one of the largest selections of Emma Bridgewater ceramics and tins in the area.

French Grey also offers lots of nice cupcake cases and cookery books, as well as vintage-style coasters and cake-stands.

Take a wander through the shop and discover beautiful solid wood painted kitchens in a Farrow and Ball palette of colours, with larders and fridge freezer cabinets.

There is a full design and fitting service available, and a new show kitchen painted

in pale grey is due to be fitted in February.

Don’t miss out on the Annie Sloan chalk paints: Perfect for kitchen and furniture painting.

If your kitchen needs anything at all – from a few sparking accessories, to a full-on revamp, French Grey Kitchens have the most stylish solutions around.

French Grey Kitchens 2 High Street, Malmesbury,Wiltshire SN16 9AU Call: 01666 825505 49

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> flavour the xxxxxxx rattlebone inn

the rattlebone inn A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com

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ention the county of Wiltshire and many images are conjured up: the beautiful cathedral in Salisbury, the rolling hills in the south of the county, and a series of historic market towns – Devizes, Calne, Chippenham, Malmesbury and more, with their wide high streets, ancient buildings and quiet charm.

But in the very north-west of the county lies a Wiltshire village that is much less well publicised, and more associated with the neighbouring county of Gloucestershire: Sherston has probably been around since Roman times, and may well have been a stopping-off point near the famous Fosseway.

As you enter through the front door, there’s a nicely laid out dining area to your left, with a real fire. The bar is on your right, in what I guess would count as the lounge.

Beams on the ceilings, slightly uneven flooring and a general lack of straight lines immerse you in a sense of timelessness. Although the pub has been regularly refurbished, you can nonetheless imagine people drinking in here back when James II was on the throne.

It is in the ‘public’ bar, informally known as the

In the 11th century, King Canute met the Saxons and fought a two-day battle here. The leader of the local forces was a man called John Rattlebone, who is now immortalised in the form of a pub named after him, and his anti-Canute heroics.

The Rattlebone Inn Church Street Sherston Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0LR

The Rattlebone Inn is on the corner of Noble Street and Church Street. Built in the late 17th century, it is a pretty painted stone construction with visible lintels above the windows. There’s something about a slightly bowed lintel that really gives an older building an air of genuine history.

01666 840871 www.therattlebone.co.uk

Inside you’ll find a bustling village local spread out over a veritable rabbit’s warren of rooms.

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> flavour the rattlebone inn

Raise a glass to...

St Austell Tribute Ale (4.2%) Originally brewed as a one-off to commemorate the Total Eclipse of the Sun in Cornwall a few years back, this copper-coloured best bitter was such a favourite it was renamed and is now the brewery’s most widely-seen beer. It’s bittersweet on the palate, and you can really taste the hops.

Wells Bombardier (4.1%) Brewed in Bedford and the subject of a massive national marketing campaign using Rik Mayall in a pseudo Captain Flashheart persona. It’s a traditional premium bitter: copper in colour and with a nicely-balanced flavour courtesy of crushed crystal malts. There is a hint of pepper in there too.

Young’s Bitter (3.7%) Brewed these days in Bedford, rather than its original home in Wandsworth, London. It’s quite a pale beer, and the very essence of the word ‘quaffable’. A light orange colour, there is actually a fruity taste to it, along with some malt; but like all the best session beers, the finish is slightly dry, pulling you inexorably back to the bar for another.

village bar, that I think the pub shows the very best of itself. Locals mix with visitors in a convivial and chatty atmosphere, and there is a general and pleasant hubbub about the place that is dangerously easy to relax into.

Of course, diners are very well catered for too. There is a bar snack menu and a full restaurant menu, on which you might find a fillet of sea bass with mussels, seared calves’ liver or wild mushroom gnocchi. The restaurant can get very busy in the evenings, so it is advisable to book ahead.

For warmer days and evenings, there are two gardens, a patio outside, a skittle alley and a couple of boules pistes. I’m told that at certain times of the year you can also see mangold hurling, and who in their right mind wouldn’t want to see that!

As with any village pub, it is not any one thing that makes it stand out, it is the combination of all the different facets that create a warm, fun and inclusive sense of belonging. The lovely building, the very welcoming staff, the great beer and food, the locals, the chat: putting them all together makes The Rattlebone Inn a very pleasant place to while away an hour or three, far removed from the rigours of 21st-century life. ■

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Woolley Grange Hotel It was ‘feet-up’ for Emily Richards and family as they unwound for a day in comfort and tranquillity...

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aturday mornings with our two children usually begins with an early start and a muddy football pitch.

This becomes much more bearable when we plan to spend the rest of the day at the Woolley Grange Hotel, Bradford-on-Avon.

The Wiltshire hotel is long-established as an upmarket family retreat and the spa has become a haven for local members.

Like many things at Woolley Grange, the Den was relaxed and comfortable without being overly prescriptive – a vibe achieved with dedicated and understated charm.

As Claire Hammond, General Manager, explains, “It’s like having friends with a big house in the country – it’s a place to relax easily without things feeling too structured.”

risotto and decent salmon with potato and spinach and a tomato and basil dressing.

Dessert was a perfectly sticky apple tarte tartin and a seriously good chocolate and hazelnut terrine with marmalade ice cream. A three-course Sunday lunch can be enjoyed by non-residents (£21.50) and is a great venue for a relaxed family meal in delightful surroundings.

The spa is housed in an attractive outbuilding comprising treatment rooms, pool, sauna and steam room. There is a tranquil atmosphere – my eldest liked the ‘nature music’ – and the calming scent of oils made us feel immediately at ease. Parents can relax and enjoy the space with their children without feeling uncomfortable about squeals and splashes in the pool.

And so my husband and I return to the spa to read the papers and enjoy a massage, enabling us to fully unwind. My back, neck and shoulder massage was perfect – starting with a gentle ‘tranquillity welcome’ and a heated blanket to relax the muscles, followed by a massage using the Sacred Nature Oil from the spa’s organic range of products.

Later we explored the beautiful grounds and discovered the outdoor pool, croquet mallets and pond with imaginary talking crocodile. Walking through the walled gardens – where staff grow cut flowers for the hotel and vegetables for the restaurant – we came upon a charming play area. The old tractor was a big hit with the boys. Two lovely wooden playhouses – the ‘Woolley Grange Farm Shop’ and a bunting-strewn cafe – were furnished with plenty of toys to encourage imaginary play while parents can sit on the verandahs and enjoy pretend pots of tea. The gardens are designed to be interactive so that children can touch and smell the herb garden and explore the trialling strawberry plants and hanging beans.

Throughout our visit it was evident that it was the little things at Woolley Grange that really appeal to families (not just the spinny machine to dry our swimming costumes, which provided unexpected entertainment). Balance bikes in the entrance hall, trampoline in the grounds, a vintage tractor to scramble over, a teenage retreat with games consoles and a chocolate-coloured cocker spaniel called Peanut all serve to make this the perfect retreat.

After we’d spent time in the pool together, we walked over to Woolley Bears Den – the crèche available to guests and members from newborn upwards. The friendly staff made the boys feel immediately welcome – the five-year-old headed for the comfy sofas to watch 101 Dalmatians and the three-year-old was gently encouraged to find an activity that appealed to him.

The spa also serves as an informal space where guests and members can hang out. Ladies in robes enjoyed afternoon tea without having to transfer to the main building. The children’s afternoon tea menu looked delightful – including Rice Krispie cake, jelly and ice cream and babyccinos.

Returning to the Den an hour later we discovered the boys had played skittles and created some masterpieces which were displayed on the nursery wall next to those of other happy little customers.

We were shown to The Orangery for lunch.

Two hungry children were fed quickly with fresh haddock and chips – one of a good number of lunch options – followed by sponge pudding with custard and banana split. The verdict was ‘yummy scrummy’.

We ate from the table d’hôte lunch menu (two courses £14.50, three courses £19.50) and chose a tasty pea and mint

While residents played games by the log fire before dinner, we headed home feeling happy and relaxed. Woolley Grange really does achieve a tranquil sense of contentment for guests and members, parents and children alike.

Woolley Grange Hotel Bradford-on-Avon Wiltshire BA15 1TX 01225 864705 www.woolleygrangehotel.co.uk

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It’s like having friends with a big house in the country – it’s a place to relax easily without things feeling too structured.

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BEST OF BOTH WORLDS In association with flavour magazine, Shanghai Nights is pleased to present you with this 2-4-1 offer. Pay for one buffet and receive the second one absolutely FREE!

THIS AD AND BRING IT ALONG WITH YOU. SIMPLY CUT OUT All you can eat buffet and eat fresh, cooked to order menu specialising in Dim Sum, Pan Asian authentic cuisines and fresh seafood.

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COOKED TO ORDER MENU Dishes start from as little as 50p each!

OUR HANDPICKED PAN ASIAN CHEFS ENABLE US TO OFFER AUTHENTIC REGIONAL DISHES PROVIDING A TRULY ORIENTAL EXPERIENCE. OFFER ENDS 29 FEB 2012. (OFFER EXCLUDES VALENTINES DAY AND CANNOT BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY OTHER OFFERS)

SHANGHAI NIGHTS | NELSON STREET | BRISTOL | BS1 2JT CALL US: 0117 945 0505 | VISIT US: www.shanghainightsbristol.co.uk

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FRESHERS’ FARE This month Martin Blunos visits student accommodation on a quest to raise the notoriously low standards of undergraduate cuisine...

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his was the challenge – create nutritious, simple and walletfriendly food for a student to cook in the kitchenette of a student’s bedsit.

Up for it? Of course I was!

In addition to these I also created meatballs, and with just this one basic recipe a student can create several dishes and have a repertoire to make his/her mum proud.

Standing in a metre-squared kitchen with the basics of two cooking rings, a small combination microwave/grill, toaster and kettle for company (none of what a student would term as ‘fancy’ kit – like a whisk, blender or mixer), I set about my challenge.

Making the meatballs couldn’t be easier – empty 250g beef into a large bowl, squeeze 4 sausages from their skins and add to the beef along with a squirt of ketchup. Now using ‘clean’ hands work to form a well-bound mixture. Pinch off even lumps and roll between hands to make the balls. Repeat till all the mixture is used.

Using a basic store cupboard of ingredients, I cooked up student staples like pot noodles (but real), cup-a-soup (again real), cupcakes in cups and frying pan toad in the hole.

Heat a pan on the hob; add a splash of oil and an even layer of meatballs. Cook gently for 20-25 minutes, moving the balls around in the pan from time to time to colour evenly.

And there you have the basic ‘meatballs’.

Eat them hot or cold with mayo or more ketchup.

For meatballs in mushroom sauce, empty a tin of mushroom soup into a pan over a high heat, add a splash of milk and again a good handful of meatballs. Ten minutes later they are good to go.

Obviously this is not extraordinary cuisine, but for students, it’s a start. I am working with the guys that arrange student’s halls of residence to see if we can come up with packs and cookery lessons for new students, some who are away from home for the first time, catching them early before they settle into bad dietary habits.

Follow me on Twitter: @martinblunos1

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks.

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Here’s the ca ch

How to... cook fish on a budget

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

© Mitch Tonks.

RockFish Grill & Seafood Market Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill

With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...

So winter, recession, time to tighten your belts in more ways than one? But if cooking with a budget in mind means heading straight for the lentils and tins of beans, think again. One thing is for sure; most people tend not to think of fish as food to cook on the cheap, unless it comes in frozen finger form. But there really are some great ways to include terrific fish that won’t break the bank and make a pretty impressive supper in the process.

Some of my absolute favourites are the least expensive dishes and probably top of the list is seafood spaghetti. Spaghetti, fresh tomatoes, olive oil, mussels, clams and whatever else takes your fancy from the fish counter thrown in, piled high and unceremoniously plonked in the middle of

the table for a group of friends to share – sumptuous.

Most of our fish at RockFish is caught down in Brixham in Devon and then transported up overnight to be on the counter the next day hence our saying that our fish is so fresh “tomorrow’s is still in the sea!” While some fish is at a premium and a higher price, such as turbot and lobster, there are plenty of species caught in the South Coast waters that make a fantastic and cheap supper. Bang in season is the humble mussel and at this time of year it’s hard to beat a piece of really good smoked haddock. Here are two great recipes for around a fiver – not bad for some top-quality seafood.

I’m always telling people to come in and chat to us. Our fishmongers are chefs and they have loads of ideas about what is good, what works with what and some new simple ideas to try.

We can help you with what is on the counter and is best for the budget on any particular day!

Hope to see you soon.

Recipe taken from The AGA Seafood Cookbook

by Mitch Tonks published by Absolute Press.

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> flavour mitch tonks

SWEET AND SOUR CHILLI MUSSELS It’s hard to beat moules marinère but this is one of those dishes that everyone wants to know how to cook after they’ve tried it.

Serves 2 Ingredients 1kg live mussels 1 onion, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 1 tbsp chopped, fresh ginger 4 red chillies, finely sliced 150ml white wine vinegar 6 tbsp sugar Splash of fish sauce Juice of 1 lime A handful of coriander, finely chopped A small handful of chopped basil

Method Clean the mussels and then steam them open in a pan with a little water.

Discard any that don’t open. In a frying pan, gently soften the onions, garlic, ginger and chillies. Add the vinegar and sugar and stir well to dissolve. Taste to get that sweet and sour balance that you like and then season with a few drops of fish sauce. Simmer for 2-3 minutes. Tip the mussels and their juices into the frying pan and stir well to create a sticky coating over the mussels. Squeeze in the lime juice and add the herbs. Serve hot or chilled.

CULLEN SKINK Well its name just gets everyone talking, a traditional warming and filling soup – don’t bank on leftovers.

Serves 3-4 Ingredients 450g good quality undyed smoked haddock 1 medium onion, finely chopped Small handful of chopped parsley leaves (reserve the stalks) 750ml full cream milk 200g creamy mashed potato 50g butter Bay leaf Salt and plenty of black pepper

Method Put the milk in a pan large enough to take the haddock. Add the bay leaf and parsley stalks and simmer for 4 minutes then leave to infuse for a further 5 minutes. When cool enough remove the haddock, reserving the liquid, and break up into flakes and remove any skin and bone.

Melt the butter in another pan and cook the onions until soft but not browned. Add the strained poaching liquid and then stir in enough mashed potato until you have a thickened, creamy consistency. Add the parsley and the haddock and simmer for a further 3-4 minutes. Season with plenty of black pepper and salt if needed and serve with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

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Going against the grain

THE MAHARAJAH’S CHOICE

Intrepid surveyor of world cuisine Louis Labron-Johnson steps up to the plate and heads to New Dehli, where some of the world’s best chefs work their magic with the celebrated basmati rice…

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> flavour going against the grain

LAMB BIRYANI

‘THE FRAGRANT ONE’ Across the vast, unwieldy beast that is the sub-continent of India, rice is the staple diet of every inhabitant. From Moghul emperors to outcaste tribes, for millennia Indians have partaken of the many thousands of varieties of rice grown on hillside paddies and steppes. Of all these rice families, the undisputed queen is basmati, a strain of long grain rice renowned for its fragrance and delicate, nuanced flavour. basmati is cultivated exclusively in the Punjab region, irrigated by the Sutluj River which runs through the foothills of the Himalayas.

Although the vast majority of basmati is consumed in India, worldwide demand is growing fast, not least in the UK, where basmati now accounts for over half of all rice sold. Seen more and more as a vital cooking ingredient in our kitchens, part of the popularity of basmati is down to its flexibility: the rice can be successfully used in almost every type of cuisine, from Mexican chillis to Italian risottos to Spanish paellas, even Japanese sushi can be created using the basmati strain.

BASMATI FOR THE WORLD To celebrate the diversity of basmati, APEDA – the agricultural developmental authority of India – annually hosts the basmati For The World Exposition in New Dehli, the colourful, ramshackle Indian capital. Distinguished chefs from all over

Seen more and more as a vital cooking ingredient in our kitchens, part of the popularity of basmati is down to its flexibility: The rice can be successfully used in almost every type of cuisine. the world are invited to take part in a twoday cooking event, showcasing fantastic dishes from their country of origin. The only stipulation is that said dishes are in some way made using basmati.

This year, over 30 top chefs from the UK, France, Italy, Spain, Mexico and the USA created a number of basmatirelated recipes, and the results were both innovative and delicious. Lionel Levy of France made excellent rice ball fritters, while US chef David Felton’s succulent and aromatic butter-poached Maine lobster with basmati rice and Thai curry sauce became a personal favourite.

The second day of the event was dedicated to Indian cuisine, and headlined by top chef Shilpi Gupta, who is to India what Gordon Ramsey is to us – minus the profanity. The dishes were by-and-large outstanding, and a far shout from the tikka masala that we are perhaps more familiar with in the UK. Curry is a British-coined word that has no equivalent in Indian, and represents a breed of dish indigenous to the UK, specifically Birmingham, where Korma et al originated in the Seventies.

Indian cuisine is much more varied, mostly vegetarian, and fiercely regional. One of the most superb dishes was Shilpi’s own lamb biryani, a melt-in-the-mouth experience perfectly balanced with fluffy saffron rice. Shilpi was kind enough to share the recipe – taken from a man regarded by many to be the finest chef on the sub-continent, it’s certainly one well worth adding to your repertoire.

The versatility of basmati is matched only by its unique flavour, and makes this particular rice a must-have for any store cupboard.

Serves 10 Ingredients 1kg basmati rice 800g boneless lamb chop/shank 100g ghee or butter 1.25l beaten curd/yoghurt 6 cardomom pods 4 cloves 4 bay leaves 1 tsp caraway seeds 1 tsp yellow chilli powder 1 tsp red chilli powder 50ml cooking oil 3 onions 20g ginger 0.5g saffron Method 1 Wash and soak rice for 30 min.

Place lamb in heavy-bottomed pan with all powdered and whole spices.

Add curd and oil, mix, and cook for 20 minutes.

2 Boil 1.25l water, add Basmati rice, salt and whole spices, and cook until rice is ¹⁄³ done. Strain rice.

3 Arrange lamb, marinade and rice over each other in layers. Add ghee, saffron and onions on top, seal lid of pot, and place in oven at 150°C for 30 mins.

4 Serve in an open dish.

WWW.APEDA.GOV.IN 59

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> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Richard Hunt Age: 38 Going on 75!

Originally from: Exeter Head chefs at: The Grand Hotel Torquay

Well I’m a passionate South West foodie who likes honest food, collects cookery books (to the despair of my young lady at home) and enjoys training the next generation of chefs. I play golf erratically, cricket much better, enjoy a spot of sea fishing (but seem to have a knack of scaring all the fish away) and love to cook at home. As with most chefs I started cooking by eating all the remnants of cake mix from when my mother would make cakes, although watching Keith Floyd and his passion for the subject, and having Plymouth fish market down the road (which was open to everyone in those days) lit the spark more profusely.

In cooking every day is a new challenge, whether it is new ingredients to try or one hundred people to serve, you never get bored or stop learning in this industry; I maintain my enthusiasm by consuming vast quantities of Devonshire tea! I try to keep my cooking relevant by talking to other chefs, more on social media than face to face as time is always in short supply, eating out quite a lot, buying the latest books from people like Pierre Gagnaire or Alain Ducasse, and of course talking to my guests. You never know who is coming through the restaurant doors, whether it’s a regular guest or the owner, or a food inspector, all have to be treated the same way, and we are too busy to get complacent. As long as my diners are happy then we will keep driving forward to excel in the kitchen.

95 per cent of my food is sourced from West Country farms, as I believe that local is important. The industry has suffered over the last decade, and needs all the support we can give it. As well as

this the guests demand local sourcing – the information available through media and the Internet means that the guest today is far more knowledgeable about produce than a guest 20 years ago.

The food I like to serve is honest and straightforward; you won’t find foams and gels on my plates, even though I studied molecular gastronomy for three years.

Great ingredients shouldn’t need playing with, the skill of the chef is to take great produce and make it the star of the show without all the bells and whistles that we see in today’s high-end restaurants.

I have a very calm temperament; it takes a lot for me to blow a gasket. It happens but very rarely, which means I am very calm in pressurised situations. A strength in the kitchen is to not feel that you are the best of the best, being humble is important. I am only as good as my team and the last meal we serve. I can be too ‘nice’ at times, which means staff can try and take advantage of my good nature!

I don’t follow ‘fads’ which can put me at odds with other chefs, I have always been a great believer in following your own style and what your customers actually want to eat and not want you want them to eat!

Working with fish is a joy. Being from the South West, we are so lucky to have the best lobsters and flatfish, a wonderful spear-caught 6lb plaice is a mind-blowing ingredient to be given to work with.

The Grand Hotel Torquay Sea Front Torquay TQ2 6NT 0800 005 3905 www.grandtorquay.co.uk 61

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04/02/2012 01:48

Six O’clock Gin

THE GIN REVIVAL Bramley and Gage have 25 years experience of liqueur manufacture. The fruit-growing lessons learned from starting out on a South Devon fruit farm still guide their sloe gin and liqueur production in Gloucestershire today – from letting it ripen fully and naturally on the bush, to using only the varieties that give the best flavour.

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sing only real, whole, fruit, grown in the West Country, the production process ensures that as much of the natural flavour, freshness, and colour of the fruit as possible is retained in the delicious liqueurs and infusions.

Lauded and awarded many times for the quality of their product, Bramley and Gage have accumulated a cupboard full of national and international accolades and trophies, particularly for their signature sloe gin. Using the honed and refined techniques that make their fruity products so successful, Bramley and Gage have stepped, intrepidly, into the world of premium-quality clear gin with their new product, Six O’clock Gin. Being up against so many big names in the gin industry is a daunting prospect, but fortunately Six O’clock Gin doesn’t disappoint, producing a smooth, controlled, juniper flavour with a delicate balance of botanicals including coriander, orange peel and elderflower. If that wasn’t enough Bramley and Gage also produce a tonic water which has an exceptional, clean taste from natural quinine. No synthetic flavours, sweeteners or preservatives are

used. Six O’clock Gin and Six O’clock Gin Tonic have been developed to complement each other, allowing G&T drinkers the guarantee of a perfectly balanced gin and tonic.

Inspiration for Six O’clock Gin and Tonic came from the diaries and papers of Edward Kain, a 19th century ancestor of Bramley and Gage’s founders, and an intrepid world traveller and inventor. During his seafaring years he eagerly awaited Six O’clock, when he would take his daily anti-malarial tonic combined with a flavourful gin; an institution that he continued back home and which he called his “ginspiration”.

Six O’clock Gin can be found at £25.00 per 70cl gin bottle, £1.00 for a 200ml mixer bottle of tonic and is available from independent off licenses, delis and farm shops as well as some of the South West’s best bars. Bramley and Gage Ltd Ashville Park Thornbury BS35 3UU 01454 418046 www.bramleyandgage.co.uk

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04/02/2012 01:31

HENDRICK’S A MOST UNUSUAL GIN

Not since the mid 19th‒ century and the beginning of gentrified gin, with the creation of the unsweetened ‘London’ variety, has there been quite such a stir among tipplers of this wonderful beverage.

Hendrick’s is the only gin made in a combination of a Carter-Head and copper pot still. Despite using the same palette of botanicals, the two stills produce quite different spirits.

One of only a handful remaining in the world, the Carter-Head still was originally built in 1948, but was lovingly restored by the resident coppersmiths at the Hendrick’s Distillery.

By gently ‘bathing’ the ingredients in vapours, it produces a wonderfully light, smooth, citrus spirit. The copper pot Bennett still, dated 1860, is one of the oldest in the industry and boils the botanicals to produce a spirit of greater depth of flavour and character.

By combining the spirits from the two stills – in proportions known only to Hendrick’s master distiller – a gin is created with a unique smoothness, character and balance of flavours.

Commenting on Hendrick’s, Lesley Gracie, Master Distiller, says: “Its distinctive taste comes from the unusual way we make it – no other gin both steams and bathes its botanicals and no other gin

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would dare add cucumber and rose-petal essences.

It may not be to everyone’s liking, but it does have a following amongst the vanguard of gin drinkers.”

Among the 11 different botanicals are highly aromatic coriander seeds – evoking ginger, lemon and sage – which are sourced from Eastern Europe and Morocco. Juniper berries from Italy provide an exotic, spicy, bittersweet taste.

Angelica and orris roots, lemon peel, chamomile, cubeb berries, orange peel, elderflower, yarrow and caraway seeds are also added.

Two curiously marvellous ingredients are then painstakingly infused into the spirit one small batch at a time.

The first is a lovely hint of rose, which is extracted by gently pressing the oils from the petals. Next comes the coupe de grace – cucumbers, the essence of which is obtained by mashing the fresh fruit, then mixing the pulp with water.

Truly, HENDRICK’S is the connoisseur’s choice of tipple.

E N D R I C K S G I N.C

OM

04/02/2012 01:35

Distillery

THE PLYMOUTH GIN SEE HOW THE SMOOTH HANDCRAFTED GIN IS MADE AT ENGLAND’S OLDEST WORKING DISTILLERY.

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he home of Plymouth Gin offers the only opportunity for gin lovers to visit an English distillery at any time of year. Originally built in 1432 as a monastery for the Black Friar Monks, the historic building has been distilling the award-winning gin on the same site since 1793. Located a short distance from Plymouth Harbour, the distillery has a long-standing history with Britain’s most renowned explorers making it a true spirit of discovery.

Most prominently remembered as the location where the Pilgrim Fathers stayed the night before they set sail on the historic Mayflower voyage to the New World, the Black Friar’s Distillery is now a unique food and drink destination. Visitors can see how the artisan gin is batchmade using the same single copper pot still originally installed in 1855. While there, guests may also enjoy a cocktail at Plymouth’s Refectory Bar, dine at the award-winning Tanner Brothers’ bistro, or even have a go at making their own gin under the expert guidance of a Plymouth distiller.

Originally created by Thomas Coates in 1793, the recipe for Plymouth Gin is closely guarded to this day by Master Distiller Sean Harrison. The unique recipe features seven distinctive botanicals and calls for an artisanal production method resulting in a complex flavour profile

and smooth texture. Often regarded as the ‘single malt of gins’, Plymouth’s slightly sweeter selection of botanicals and soft Dartmoor water has made it the gin of choice for connoisseurs and bartenders throughout history and across the globe, particularly in the use of cocktails. Most notably, Plymouth was the recommended gin in the first ever martini recipe and is listed more than any other gin in the revered Savoy Cocktail Book.

Plymouth Gin is the only English gin with Protected Geographical Indication from the European Union, the same accreditation afforded to Champagne and Parma Ham. According to this legal status, Plymouth Gin may only be produced within the ancient walls of Plymouth and is one of only 18 other products nationwide to bear the prestigious indication.

The Plymouth Distillery offers a unrivaled day out for foodie fans. With a selection of tours available from just £6, guests can see how the gin is made, buy an exclusive product from the Plymouth Boutique or enjoy a gin and tonic in the bar. To enhance the experience, why not participate in the Connoisseur’s Tour including a tutored comparative gin tasting or, for a bespoke day out, take the Master Distillers’ Private Tour offering the opportunity to create a gin under the guidance of a distiller.

Black Friars Distillery | 60 Southside Street | The Barbican | Plymouth PL1 2LQ Call: 01752 665292 | Visit: www.plymouthgin.com

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04/02/2012 01:52

Pentillie Castle S

ituated on the border of Devon and Cornwall, Pentillie Castle offers awardwinning, luxurious accommodation in a breathtaking setting overlooking the River Tamar and Dartmoor.

Only 20 minutes from Plymouth, Pentillie has the best of both worlds, offering rural splendour as well as easy access to and from the city.

Pentillie is not a hotel in the traditional sense, rather a very comfortable bed and breakfast, available from £125 per room per night. This includes breakfast which is sourced as locally as possible, we use our own apple juice and eggs.

Pentillie is not a hotel in the traditional sense, rather a very comfortable bed and breakfast.

Bed and Breakfast stays can be taken in conjunction with our exciting programme of summer events, which includes outdoor theatre and guided garden tours, or you can hire Pentillie on an exclusive basis for your wedding, anniversary or corporate event.

Allow yourself the opportunity to relax into the beautiful surroundings, opulent accommodation and spectacular gardens of this grand old venue.

Pentillie Castle • Paynters Cross • St. Mellion • Saltash • Cornwall PL12 6QD • 01579 350044 • www.pentillie.co.uk

KITLEY HOUSE KITLEY HOUSE RESTAURANT AND BAR IS A POPULAR AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANT IN YEALMPTON, NEAR PLYMOUTH.

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t has established a reputation for the creative use of local South Devon and regional produce, which is served in a friendly atmosphere in the historic lakeside surroundings of the Grade I listed Kitley House; a 500-year-old historic country manor.

The hotel, positioned in 600 acres of unspoilt pasture and woodland, offers the perfect getaway for urbanites looking for a well-deserved break.

and James Bond-themed fun casino dinners. Themed music events featuring tribute bands and regional acts add to a busy all-year round entertainment programme.

Kitley House is the last word in sumptuous country living – a regal haunt boasting exciting events, fantastic fresh fare and blissful boudoirs in which to lay your head.

As well as offering a fine-dining restaurant, Kitley House hosts a wide range of seasonal events, including its renowned murder mystery dinners

Kitley House Country Hotel & Restaurant • Yealmpton • Plymouth • South Devon • PL8 2NW • 01752 881555 • www.kitleyhousehotel.com

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04/02/2012 01:53

Old Image

Old Image has been designing and manufacturing high-quality handmade kitchens, kitchen islands and furniture for over 18 years.

Leaders in the Bristol area, but offering a nationwide service, we have earned a reputation for our exacting standards, attention to detail and high level of customer service.

Craftsmanship

Style

Our dedicated and well-established team of skilled craftsmen pride themselves in creating beautiful bespoke products that combine traditional joinery techniques with modern technology and efficiency.

Whether you favour painted or timber, a traditional theme or simple contemporary style, our kitchens and furniture are designed to meet your individual requirements.

Customer Satisfaction We work closely with our clients and provide a high level of service throughout the planning, design, manufacturing and installation process.

Service Our bespoke service enables us to design your kitchen to meet your individual requirements. We don’t have standard cupboard sizes so any unusual requests or difficult dimensions are easily accommodated.

Mob: 07702 032 289 | Tel: 0117 2398 707 | sales@oldimage.co.uk | www.oldimage.co.uk

Detail

bespoke kitchens • furniture • joinery

Inspired design, meticulous manufacture & professional installation

0117 973 5838 www.detail-kitchens.co.uk

bespoke bristol ltd, 80 Alma Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2DJ

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03/02/2012 20:25

Quartz-Lite Is your kitchen tired and in need of a facelift?

Then Quartz-Lite could be the answer for you. Specially manufactured to only 8mm thick, this ultimate stone surface fits directly on top of and around your existing kitchen work surface.

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eing made from silica quartz– one of the hardest substances known to man – combined with a polymer resin, makes the work surfaces beautiful, yes, but also extremely tough. The result is a surface harder than granite worktops, which are not only more expensive, but must be sealed in order to prevent staining.

Quartz worktops have many other attributes, including being extremely resistant to damage by heat, being impervious to liquid penetration, resistant to staining and scratching and on top of this they are very hygienic and easy to clean.

Your worktop can be transformed in just one day by the Quartz-Lite team of skilled fitters with minimal disruption and mess.

Your job will be looked after from start to finish; this includes removing and refitting your sink, tap and hob, all as part of the service.

Quartz-Lite comes in a range of over 20 different colours to suit most decors, and for an even more sensational effect the material can be applied to walls, splash backs and plinths to create a totally new look for any home, making it the ideal choice for not only kitchens but bathrooms as well.

Established in 2003, Quartz-Lite have been creating stunning kitchen transformations in the Bristol and Bath area ever since, and offer a free no-obligation home visit where you can choose from the complete range of colours available, in the comfort of your own home.

Call: 0117 937 3361 Visit: www.quartz-lite.com

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03/02/2012 20:25

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03/02/2012 20:25

> flavour sian blunos

Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

I am now in my second year at uni studying diet and health, and have been looking into the diet of our ancestors, known as the ‘paleolithic diet’. Evolution has influenced the way we eat and it has led to the food choices we make today. Our ancestors ate very differently to us.

According to studies, foragers consumed much higher levels of vitamins and minerals than we do today. Research reveals that hunter-gatherers were free from modern day diseases such as obesity, heart disease, cancers, diabetes and food allergies. So how did we get to where we are now?

The Neolithic Revolution was the transition from hunting and gathering to agriculture

GOING BACK TO

BASICS

and settlement. With the Industrial Revolution came the ability to process food, such as cereals and refined sugars.

Saturated fats and highly salted foods have become significant in the staple diet of today; this has had a profound effect on our health and has led to many diseases, food allergies and intolerances.

One theory is that the obesity crisis is due to the industrialisation of the food system and the consequent overwhelming abundance of inexpensive, high-density foods. So for the future health of our little ones we need to get back to basics and give them the natural healthy food that nature intended.

LAMB WITH LEEKS AND CARROTS IN A TOMATO AND ROSEMARY SAUCE Serves 6-8 INGREDIENTS 1 tin chopped tomatoes 1tbsp oil 225g loin of lamb, cubed 1tbsp flour 1 onion, chopped 1 clove of garlic, crushed 1 leek, chopped 1 carrot, diced 2 potatoes, peeled and diced ¾ pint veg or lamb stock 1 sprig rosemary METHOD

COOKING FOR COCO Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.

To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. Heat the oil in an ovenproof casserole dish. Dust the lamb with the flour and fry for about five minutes until well browned. Add the onion, garlic, leek, carrot and potatoes and fry for a further four minutes.

2 Stir in the tomatoes, stock and rosemary and bring to the boil. Cover and transfer to the oven.

Cook for about 1¼ hours, or until tender. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

3 Remove the rosemary, strain and reserve the cooking liquid. Whiz in a food processor. For older babies you can mash the mixture or leave it chunky. Divide into portions, then serve or freeze.

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04/02/2012 02:10

> flavour nick harman

TV chefs reaching saturation point Nick Harman pulls his teeth out as he gets to grips with the TV guide…

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f you want to see an example of TV’s food schizophrenia just look at the New Year schedules. There are programmes to help get you into shape, programmes about cooking, the usual cooking programmes and programmes seemingly cooked-up by drunken executives after a good lunch.

On the one hand we’re being exhorted to lose that belly and on the other to fill it up as fast as we can. The lose weight camp seems to be increasingly looking at fitness regimes run by sadists, while the cooking camp is looking increasingly desperate for something new.

Heston’s back of course. He’s not really a chef so much these days as a kind of Victorian showman and his food is great telly. Unlike normal food it tends to move about, to blow out clouds of smoke and have a back-story that involves more gadgets than James May can shake a whimsical 1950’s stick at.

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.

Baking is going to be big; there’s The Fabulous Baker Brothers (‘Well done Jeremy! Brilliant title! You’ll be Director General yet my boy) presumably an alternative to Baking Made Easy with Lorraine Pascale whose shtick is to talk to the wobbly camera through a rictus grin of barely suppressed laughter and who tweets and social medias like crazy while her dough is rising. It’s so very trending it makes your hair bleed. Baking of course is always cliché comfort though. The smell of fresh cake in the house is supposed to make you forget the lack of funds in your account, until you add up the cost of the ingredients and the energy bills involved. Then

it’s enough to make you take the cake out of the oven and shove your head in instead.

James Martin continues to drive the popular Saturday Kitchen, not so much a cookery show as a chat show featuring people you’ve never heard of, all trying to be jolly despite having had to drag themselves out of bed at 4am.

Their faces when asked to sample savoury dishes, while desperately trying to keep down the green room croissants they ate earlier, are a joy to behold. To be fair, Martin is down to earth, funny and not full of himself and there’s always something about live telly that keeps you watching. Like with a Grand Prix you’re secretly hoping for a crash.

And now there’s a food quiz show. The talent comes in the previously respectable form of Kirsty Wark accompanied by some man in glasses. The contestants seem to be all food bloggers, which is enough to have you scrabbling for the remote control, and Kirsty’s script is all about alliteration and asinine adverbs. You have to wonder if they can find enough questions to last the series but maybe they won’t need to. A programme for afternoon telly at best, it surely can’t survive long at prime time.

Food TV is cheap TV; it costs almost nothing to make compared with documentaries and original programming. When it’s Rick Stein it can be fascinating and informative but most of the time it’s just cheap, sliced white bread instead of crusty loaf. It fills a hole but does you no good at all.

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04/02/2012 01:55

the perfect setting...

A luxury hotel for all seasons in a dramatic sea side setting.

Family friendly suites, award winning cuisine, a warm indoor pool, lawn tennis and luxury self catering.

Nr Salcombe, South Devon AA HHHH

AA Britain’s Best Hotels

01548 561566 Flav_46_SW_Adverts SW.indd 8

www.soarmillcove.co.uk 04/02/2012 01:47

Flav_46_SW_Adverts SW.indd 9

04/02/2012 02:02