Flavour London Issue 7 by Flavour Magazine

for people who love local food

London | Issue 7 | Feb 2012

£3 where sold

WIN!

A luxury spa break at Careys Manor

Livin La Vida Coco!

ISSN 1756-2899 22

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons Delve into Raymond Blanc’s finest creation

Love Food!

9 771756 289018

www.flavourmagazine.com Follow us on Twitter @flavourlondon

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Heartwarming recipes from Tina Bester

NATURE’S BOUNTY! Our guide to the goodness of coconuts

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Editor: Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com Art Director: Bruce Mytton Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Louisa Nairne, Marketing Director Email: Louisa@flavourmagazine.com

Richard Stevens, Sales Account Manager Email: richard@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Diana Chaccour, Eamonn J McCade Contributors: Cheryl Cohen, Nick Harman, Duncan Shine, Mitch Tonks, Zeren Wilson, Mark Andrew, Louis LabronJohnson, Peter Lawrence, Sriram Aylur, Emily Conradi, Megan Morgan, Megan Owen, Catherine Hannah, Shu Han, Ben Norum Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com

© Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Greenliving

Inside... 07 WIN! A luxury spa break at Careys Manor 10 In Season Cheryl Cohen from London Farmers’ Markets brings you the best of the season’s produce 16 Nature’s Bounty Our guide to the goodness of the coconut 26 Love Food Heartwarming recipes presented with style by Tina Bester 68 Going against the Grain Our intrepid traveller Louis finds out about Basmati rice in New Delhi

welcome Welcome to February’s flavour, an edition that hopefully finds you recovered from the Christmas festivities and, having given up on those New Year resolutions, ready to dutifully embrace the world of food and drink again.

Allow yourselves the indulgence of a rural retreat with our City Escapes feature (P.40), immerse yourselves – and you really can – in Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons (P.53), have a gander at Roux at the Landau (P.24) or simply prep-up for Shrove Tuesday’s ‘Pancake Day’ with Megan Owen (P.65). For those of you that have managed to stay true to your health-kick, Tina Bester’s new book, Love Food, is full of simple, wholesome recipes that even I have managed to cook (try the chicken burgers featured on (P.26). Not only did they work, they even managed to look like the photograph in the book – a triumph indeed! Whatever you have decided food and drink wise for the coming year, you can be assured London, with its immense diversity of culture and increasingly respected food scene, will cater for it. For me, I’m afraid nothing has changed; the pounds are packing, exercise only happens to other people and I’ll continue to be seduced by all things digestive related until they stop being such a pleasure. That will never happen. Anyway, spring is around the corner so that means we can shortly start looking forward to beer gardens again… Well done!

N ick Nick Gregory

Please recycle this product.

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> flavour news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month HAVE A PATRIOTIC PICNIC ON WALKERS

HARRODS WELCOMES DEMOISELLE Galvin Restaurants and Harrods are proud to announce the March 2012 opening of the Galvin Demoiselle restaurant in the store’s iconic Food Halls.

One of England’s oldest pie makers has relaunched its delicious range of pork pies wrapped in patriotic red, white and blue just in time for your spring picnic basket. Made in Leicestershire since 1824 by Walker & Son, their pork pies are baked using only the finest cuts of British pork shoulder and belly. Combined with a special blend of herbs and spices and encased in rich crust pastry, these mouthwatering traditional pies are finished off in a distinctive fluted shape. Walker & Son pork pie range includes a handy size Picnic Pie (148g), a slightly larger Queen Size Crispy Classic (300g) and King Size Original (440g) ideal for sharing. Available nationwide from Waitrose, The Co-operative, Morrisons and Sainsbury’s stores. www.walkerspies.co.uk

Galvin Demoiselle will be the fifth London offering from Galvin Restaurants, the family-run collection of French restaurants founded in 2005 by Michelinstarred chef brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin. For the first time, Sara Galvin, wife of Chris, will become Patron, having spearheaded the concept and design for the new bistro-style restaurant. www.galvinrestaurants.com

FRONT COVER – GO COCO A COCONUT WATER THAT TASTES AMAZING... Go Coco is a brand new coconut water just launched in the UK, and this health drink is all about the taste!

Go Coco was born from the clear water of Thailand’s young, green coconuts, specifically chosen for their distinctly nutty, vanilla. Loaded with vitamins and minerals, including calcium, magnesium and twice as much potassium as a banana, which is essential for optimum brain function, Go Coco’s health benefits are endless – but it is the flavour of this new drink that is starting to create some real buzz within the industry. See flavour’s coconut feature on page 16 for all the benefits that coconuts offer...

FOLLOW FLAVOUR ON TWITTER flavour has joined the twitterati! Follow us on Twitter for recipes and tips, as well as regular updates on London foodie hotspots, new restaurants, invogue chefs and those who look set to break into the thrilling yet turbulent circus that is our capital’s dining scene. Follow us at: www.twitter.com/flavourlondon

www.gococodrinks.com 4

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> flavour news

JAMES CHOCOLATES James Chocolates takes the current macaroon trend into chocolates with the new award-winning macaroon disc collection and the just launched macaroon disc Easter egg. These delicious chocolates are made in flavours inspired by the Parisian craze – fresh raspberry, slightly salted pistachio, vanilla praline and coffee and caramel. Each chocolate resembles a macaroon with two chocolate layers sandwiched with a yielding filling. For Easter James and his team of chocolate makers have created half an egg filled with five macaroon discs – a great gift for the foodie chocolate lover. Flavour readers can enjoy 15 per cent off in James’ online store using the code FLAV04 (valid until the end of April). www.jameschocolates.co.uk

SAUSAGE FEST The hunt is on to find the capital’s best local sausage. Londoners are being asked to choose their favourite from a selection available at London’s Farmers’ Markets. Farmers based within 100 miles of London produce all the sausages entered. To add a little extra flavour to the competition, producers are putting forward more than just plain pork, with venison and game options being entered as well. Voting is open until 20th February. www.thejelliedeel.org

VEGGY HEAVEN VegfestUK Brighton rolls into town on March 17 –18 for one of Europe’s biggest displays of vegetarian and vegan food – expect to see over 100 stalls crammed full of food, bodycare, fashion, accessories and information – but mainly food. With specialist vegan caterers cooking up a variety of plant-based delights, alongside free samples from some of the UK’s leading veggie producers, plus local chefs cooking off against each other in a Ready Steady Cook competition, as well as cookery demos for both kids and adults, and an all-day licensed bar and live music, there’s plenty for the whole family. VegfestUK Brighton, The Hove Centre, March 17th and 18th. 11am –6pm admission free. www.brighton.vegfest.co.uk

WIN! SPA ESCAPE BREAK Careys Manor and SenSpa are offering one lucky couple the opportunity to win a Zen Spa Escape Break in the depths of the New Forest. As well as luxury overnight accommodation in the country house hotel, the winners will be treated to dinner for two in the two AA Rosette Manor restaurant, a New Forest breakfast and Thai lunch in Zen Garden restaurant, as well as a tour of the SenSpa facilities, complimentary refreshments, a mind body class in the Thai Temple studio and use of the spa facilities. These include the hydrotherapy pool, ozone swimming pool, herbal sauna, crystal steam room, experience showers, ice room, tepidarium, laconicum and relaxation areas. Plus, to celebrate the launch of the new Hot Stone Harmony massage, Careys Manor are also offering a free one-hour massage for one guest. To enter the competition, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with the competition title in the header and full contact details within. www.careysmanor.com

COMPETITION WINNER Congratulations go to Deborah Griffiths, from Essex, who wins a two-night eco-break at The Green House, Bournemouth! 5

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D WOONRTHE STREET

PITT CUE CO. Newburgh St, W1 Last summer, London’s shack/trailer food scene really took off, none more so than Pitt Cue Co. Now the folks behind Pitt Cue have moved into Soho and are opening up a permanent restaurant in Newburgh Street. It’ll feature all your favourites from the trailer, including pulled pork and brisket, alongside some new dishes like beef ribs, steaks and rotating specials. BLUE ELEPHANT Imperial Wharf, SW6 This Thai restaurant has been in Fulham Broadway for years and for its 25th birthday it’s changing address, moving to a riverside location on Imperial Wharf, which promises to be just as extravagant as the original. Expect a revamped menu, based around cooking of the “past, present and future,” and a new cookery school. THE LOUNGE Whiteleys, W1 Cafe Anglais chef Rowley Leigh will be consultant chef at the ODEON Whiteley’s posh new boutique cinema, The Lounge. The luxury film experience will feature five cinemas each with just 50 reclining leather seats. The best bit? The fact that every seat has a call button allowing you to order off the menu without taking your eyes off the screen. DABBOUS Whitfield Street, W1 Ollie Dabbous – ex head chef of Mayfair’s Texture – is opening his own Modern European restaurant in the space that previously held famed Internet cafe Cyberia. The menu will change seasonally, and feature a range of small dishes priced between £4 and £14. MEURSAULT 36 Gloucester Road, SW1 L’Etranger is opening a second venue next door which will have both a lounge bar and a more formal dining experience. Expect a focus on Asian cuisine from head chef Sang Keun. Oh, and molecular cocktails, a dessert menu featuring 40 different choices and plenty of sharing platters for the bar.

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A FOODIE INDULGENCE FOR VALENTINE’S Treat your loved one to a truly artisan food and drink delight from Wenlock Hampers this Valentine’s. Wenlock Hampers celebrate the heritage of Much Wenlock in Shropshire being recognised as the inspiration for the modern Olympic Games with all products being sourced from within a 26.2 mile radius of the town – a marathon’s distance! The range includes The Hamper for Him or The Hamper for Her packed full of mouthwatering artisan food and drink in a limited edition box for just £55.00 each. www.brighton.vegfest.co.uk

www.wenlockhampers.com

CHOW DOWN CHINATOWN Qype, Europe’s leading consumer reviews site, has revealed the consumer’s pick of the best Chinese restaurants in the UK, ahead of Chinese New Year, January 23. Eight London restaurants ranked in the top 10, according to real reviews posted on Qype over the last six months. 1. Yauatcha Restaurant, Soho, London 2. Imperial Bento, Peterborough 3. Dragon Castle, Elephant & Castle, London 4. Hakkasan, Covent Garden, London 5. Magic Wok Restaurant, Bayswater, London

TEXT A PINT Pint Drop – Text Your Friends a Drink – is revolutionising how people pay for rounds. The easy-to-use system, based in the capital, allows people to remotely send virtual drinks vouchers to their friends from their mobile phones, the vouchers can then be redeemed in the great range of participating bars. Each voucher includes a unique code that bar staff type into a special device. The value (between £3 and £20) is then deducted from the order total. www.pintdrop.co.uk

6. Hui Wei, Sheffield 7. The Royal Dragon – Leicester Square 8. Bar Shu, Soho, London 9. Y Ming, Soho, London 10. Royal China Restaurant, Bayswater, London www.qype.co.uk

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> flavour news

APP-ROPRIATE FOR FOODIES The Feastive app, which follows the success of the Great British Chefs app, features some of the most dynamic British chefs offering their take on a festive meal.

CAKE A DIFFERENCE In its second year, Cake a Difference, fronted by enthusiastic foodie Christine Hamilton, will be held from February 6 to 12 when thousands of people across the UK will bake, sell and enjoy cakes and baked goodies to raise vital funds for Bliss. It’s really fun and easy for people to take part in.

The app delivers recipes ranging from ‘roasted venison, wild mushroom pie and creamed parsnips’ to ‘coconut pistachio snowballs’, while Vineet Bhatia, one of the newest additions to the group, offers an alternative to the traditional roast in the form of a ‘grilled lamb rack, cinnamon lamb jus, apricot-walnut couscous, blue cheeselamb tikki’. www.greatbritishchefs.com/the-app

Vital funds raised will help Bliss continue their work supporting babies born too soon, too small and too sick and their families throughout the UK. www.facebook.com/pages/ Cake-A-Difference

LOVE CHOCOLATE, BREAK HEARTS Dalston remains the hottest foodie destination in London this month as Niko B. Organic Chocolates return with their acclaimed dessert-only supperclub, the Cocoa Club at the Avo Hotel. They’re celebrating their love of chocolate with a four-course menu of seasonal, experimental desserts, chocolate cocktails, Champagne, a chocolate-making demo by master chocolatier Anthony Ferguson and a vibrant crowd on 12th and 14th of February. A pop-up Love Chocolate shop will be selling freshly-made chocolates from February 3-14. Must-tries are the Breaking Chocolate Heart, filled with raspberry caramel bleeding hearts, perfect for chocolate lovers and valentines. 10 per cent discount at the shop for flavour readers. Book tickets for the Cocoa Club, order chocolates online and find out about the special chocolate hotel packages at: www.nikobchocolates.com 7

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> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

fab foodie reads THE FABULOUS BAKER BROTHERS WELCOME TO THE DELICIOUS WORLD OF FLOUR, FIRE AND FOREARMS

PICK OF THE MONTH!

Headline, £20

In this stunning accompaniment to the Channel 4 series, brothers Tom and Henry Herbert reveal the baking secrets that have been in their family for five generations. Tom Herbert is a master baker and Henry runs the butcher’s next door. Together they are an unstoppable force, cooking up fabulous twists on popular classics at Hobbs House, Gloucestershire. The Fabulous Baker Brothers is packed full of hearty goodness and inspiring recipes, essential baking staples and a plethora of meat and baking preparation techniques based around the oven. It’s not all about bread though – the collection comprises original fillings, tempting toppings and unusual accompaniments that will bring in stacks of delicious flavours.

FOOD YOU CAN’T SAY NO TO TAMASIN DAY-LEWIS

GOOD HOUSEKEEPING: THE BAKING BOOK Collins & Brown, £25

Quadrille, £20

This irresistible book is packed with recipes for food you just can’t say ‘no’ to. When we are presented with such indulgent food, we inevitably succumb and ask for a second helping. We luxuriate; feel comforted, happy and satisfied. Here is a book filled with good things, some of which you will find familiar but with an original twist while others are entirely new and exciting. Some are special purely because of their unabashed simplicity, using a few of the very best ingredients and disarmingly easy to perfect. Tamasin’s philosophy is all about making the most of foods, especially ingredients in season, rather than spending extravagantly. This is food that you will enjoy cooking: effortless but special, indulgent yet practical and totally, utterly irresistible…

This is the must-have baking book from the team at the Good Housekeeping Institute. Featuring more than 400 delicious, sweet and savoury recipes, this baking compendium has the perfect recipe for every occasion – be it scrumptious scones for afternoon tea, an elaborate cake for a special event or fresh cookies for the biscuit tin. From pizzas to pies, bread rolls to brioches, glazes to gateaux, and much more in-between, no kitchen is complete without Good Housekeeping’s The Baking Book.

VEGGIESTAN SALLY BUTCHER Pavilion, £25

In this upbeat guide to Middle Eastern vegetarian cookery, Sally proves that the region is simply simmering, bubbling and bursting with sumptuous vegetarian traditions and recipes. Written in her trademark engaging and knowledgeable style, Sally takes a fresh look at many of the more exciting ingredients available on our high streets today as well as providing a host of delicious recipes made from more familiar fare. From fragrant Persian noodle rice to gingery tamarind aubergines, pink pickled turnips and rose petal jam, Veggiestan is filled with aromatic herbs and spices, inspiring ideas and all the knowledge needed to cook wonderful vegetarian food.

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25/01/2012 11:48

> flavour in season

At their best right n Every month our seasonal selections come from Cheryl Cohen, director of London Farmers’ Markets which runs 18 weekly markets throughout the city. She is on the board of London Food, works closely with the Farmers’ Markets Retail Association and with London Food Links.

Venison We’ve been eating deer meat in this country for centuries. Game is reasonably priced, low in fat and is thought to be low in cholesterol. It’s also delicious and because they roam freely it’s not intensively farmed either. Don’t let thoughts of Bambi put you off. You can place it in your usual beef recipes, for example in a chilli or casserole.

VENISON MEATBALLS IN A WALNUT AND POMEGRANATE MOLASSES SAUCE To make the sauce, fry 2 finely-chopped onions gently in a little oil, until soft (about 15 minutes). Add 200g chopped walnuts and 500ml venison or beef stock, cover, and simmer gently for 20 minutes, topping up with water or stock if it starts to get too dry. Stir in 50ml pomegranate molasses or fruit jelly and continue cooking the sauce for a further 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and adjust the sweet/sour

balance with lemon juice or sugar. To make the meatballs mix 600g venison mince with ½ tsp cinnamon, 1 tsp cumin and 1 tsp turmeric in a food processor until a paste is formed. Add 1 chopped onion and pulse again until thoroughly mixed. Season with salt and pepper and form into 24 small meatballs. Roll in flour and brown all over. Drain off excess oil, then add to the walnut and pomegranate sauce and cook gently for about 10-15 minutes. Serve with basmati rice and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds on serving.

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> flavour in season

Parsnips For more information contact: www.lfm.org.uk www.twitter.com/londonfarmers

t now

Once used as a sweetener when sugar was a scarce luxury, parsnips are now a ubiquitous part of our Christmas dinner. Cultivated in the UK for hundreds of years, they are still found wild in the Mediterranean. They’re better after a bout of frost as the cold turns the vegetable’s natural starches into sugar. Use them in cakes (think of carrot cake), roast or mash them, or try these delicious little fritters.

Jerusalem Artichoke Many people don’t know what to do with Jerusalem artichokes. Delicious cooked, they are also lovely raw with a crisp texture and nutty flavour, but tend to discolour quickly. Blood oranges are in season for such a short space of time, so make the most of their vivid colour and taste.

CRISPY PARSNIP CAKES WITH MAPLE SYRUP GLAZE Preheat the oven to 150°C/gas mark 2. Mix 500g parsnips in a bowl with 1 grated onion, ½ tsp cayenne and 1 tbsp flour. Add 1 egg and season. Add 2 tbsp veg oil to a nonstick frying pan over a medium-low heat. Once hot, drop tablespoon sized blobs of parsnip mix into the pan. Flatten with a palette knife into a thin cake and fry for about 4 minutes, or until golden and set, then turn over and continue to cook for another 4 minutes. Once cooked, transfer them to a non-stick baking sheet, drizzle with maple syrup and keep warm in the oven while you continue to fry the remaining parsnip mixture. Add more oil as needed. Serve while hot.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SALAD WITH SHAVED FENNEL, BLOOD ORANGE, HAZELNUTS & COB NUT OIL Peel 200g artichokes. Cut into thin slices and put into a bowl of water mixed with juice of ½ a lemon. Top and tail 1 fennel bulb and shave into the thinnest slices you can manage. Add to the water and chill. Top and tail 1 blood orange, stand on surface and cut off the peel and pith. Using a serrated knife, work over a bowl to catch the juice and separate out the segments. Save the juice and set aside the segments. Dry roast a handful of hazelnuts in a heavy frying pan or in the oven for about 5 minutes. Watch that they don’t burn. To assemble the salad, drain and dry the artichokes and fennel. In a large bowl mix with a handful of land cress, the orange segments and mix the juice with twice the amount of nut oil, season and add to the salad. Arrange on four plates with the nuts scattered over and serve at once.

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Valentine’s with

GALVIN

Since opening Galvin Bistrot de Luxe in 2005 to rapturous acclaim, the brothers Galvin, who have clocked up a wealth of culinary awards, have been carving up London in their quest to conquer the capital with their unique brand of French-inspired cuisine.

The Galvin family run four unique restaurants in London, (not to mention the much-discussed Galvin Demoiselle, soon to be opened in Harrod’s food hall) each with their own individual stamp of cooking and décor, but all sharing a common theme; the desire to offer high-quality French cuisine, served in luxurious surroundings by a warm, hospitable and professional front of house. As a romantic destination to impress a prospective partner or treat a current loved one, the Galvin restaurants shoot some sharp Cupidflavoured arrows. Galvin restaurants are putting a lot of effort into making this Valentine’s Day an extra-special one, topping even last year, where over 350 diners were served and several marriage proposals were observed! They said yes, if you’re asking – who said romance was dead? Why not celebrate Valentine’s with someone special at Galvin Bistrot de Luxe on Baker Street where Chris Galvin has created a very special three-course menu including a glass of Galvin aperitif maison on arrival. This is priced at £70.00 per head, and booking is essential. Alternatively, love is always in the air at La Chapelle on Valentine’s, probably the

most romantic restaurant in the city, located on Spital Square. Toast this special occasion with a glass of Galvin aperitif maison on arrival, followed by a splendid three-course menu created by Jeff Galvin, and a Valentine’s Day chocolate box to take away. Priced at £95.00 per person. Or wine and dine your loved one at the new and highly-acclaimed Galvin Café in the heart of Spitalfields, adjoining its big brother La Chapelle. Café A Vin is buzzy, friendly and welcoming, and recently garnered Michelin’s prestigious Bib Gourmand award. Enjoy an aperitif maison on arrival with a three-course menu created by head chef David Stafford. This is priced at £55.00 per person. As always, book ahead. A meal at a Galvin restaurant is always an unforgettable experience, the dishes inspired and perfectly executed but, if it’s a night in with a loved one on the menu, dive into one of their most popular and romantic puddings from Galvin: A Cookbook de Luxe... they’re sumptuous! Bistrot de Luxe – 0207 935 4007 La Chapelle – 0207 299 0400 Cafe A Vin – 0207 299 0404 www.galvinrestaurants.com

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APRICOT AND CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ WITH DARK CHOCOLATE SORBET – SERVES 6 INGREDIENTS

METHOD

FOR THE CHOCOLATE SORBET 100ml still mineral water 50g caster sugar 30g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), chopped 15g cocoa powder

1 For the chocolate sorbet, put the water and caster sugar in a pan and bring to the boil, then pour on to the chocolate and cocoa powder in a bowl and whisk together to mix. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, then transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Place in the freezer to set for at least two hours.

FOR THE SOUFFLÉ BASE 400g apricot purée 80g caster sugar 25g corn flour 3 tablespoons water TO FINISH THE SOUFFLÉ 40g softened unsalted butter, for greasing 100g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), grated 7 free-range egg whites 65g caster sugar Icing sugar, for dusting

2 For the soufflé base, put the apricot purée and caster sugar in a pan, bring to the boil and boil for 10 minutes, until thick. Whisk occasionally and be careful not to let the mixture burn on the bottom. Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly in the pan. 3 Mix the corn flour and water together to make a paste. Whisk this into the reduced apricot purée and return to the heat. Bring back to the boil, whisking continuously to prevent the mixture going lumpy, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally. Remove from the heat, transfer the mixture to a plastic container or a bowl and place a piece of cling film on top so that it touches the surface (to prevent a skin forming). Leave to cool to room temperature. 4 To finish the soufflé, thoroughly grease six 200ml soufflé moulds with the softened butter. Put all of the grated chocolate into one mould, turning the mould so that the chocolate sticks to the butter and the inside is coated all over with chocolate, then tip the chocolate into the next mould and repeat.

THIS RECIPE AND IMAGE IS TAKEN FROM GALVIN:

A COOKBOOK DE LUXE

WWW.GALVINRESTAURANTS.COM

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... made from a refresing blend of kiwis and berries with the deliciously distinctive taste of lavender.

... eleven botanical extracts including lemon balm, chamomile, lime blossom and passionflower, specially blended to 'soothe mind and body'. LULL has no added sugar, is low in calories (Just 43 per bottle) and each bottle contains 15% RDA of magnesium (great for tackling stress) as well as vitamins B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B12, C and E.

SPRING DETOX!

Start the year as you mean to go onâ&#x20AC;Ś Overindulgence can leave many of us feeling bloated and lethargic. And while the body has an innate ability to maintain a healthy balance, if its natural detoxifying functions become congested or tired, we can become imbalanced. LULL provides carefully selected valuable and essential nutrients to aid regeneration and restore inner-wellness and balance. Buy today online at: www.drinklull.com

Now in Fortnum & Mason

See us at: The Vitality Show Earls Court 22/25 March

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25/01/2012 12:12

Olives Et Al O

lives Et Al are the justifiably proud creators and makers of good, honest, pull-up a chair and dig in food. Their multi-award winning range goes from olives to dressings, sauces to oils, snacks to incredible kiln roasted nuts and more besides. Using carefully sourced foodstuffs and recipes discovered on trips all over the world, they have brought them all together at their base in the heart of Dorset. Using the highest quality ingredients possible – with no nasties added – you can be ensured a singularly mouthwatering experience with each and every one of Olives Et Al’s 90 products – there’s one for every meal and occasion.

People in the Mediterranean have long appreciated food not just as a source of nourishment but also of pleasure. Olives Et Al takes this ethos and applies it to the crafting of their products. Enjoy them with friends and family over a long and leisurely meal in the tradition of southern Europe.

Olives Et Al has just launched Chilli Harissa – wickedly hot chillies crushed with garlic, herbs and spices for an intense flavour. Mix into and spread onto your favourite dishes to add loads of flavour and turn up the heat. The paste is lovely in this super quick recipe.

Chilli Harissa Chicken INGREDIENTS 1 chicken breast or portion 1 tsp Olives Et Al Chilli Harissa METHOD 1 Heat your oven to 180°C. Stab your chicken all over with a skewer. 2 Rub Olives Et Al Chilli Harissa into and all over the chicken. Place on a baking tray and cook in the oven for 20-25 minutes. 3 Serve with herbed couscous and try adding a few cherry tomatoes and chopped olives into the couscous.

Head to the website to discover loads of other great recipes, find out all about Olives Et Al and enter the exclusive flavour competition to WIN one of the hugely popular Olives Et Al Hat Box Hampers stuffed full of their bestselling goodies.

Visit us: www.olivesetal.co.uk 15

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Nature s Bounty ty ty Flavour s guide to the oconuts natural benefits of c Not a lot of people know this, but there’s more to coconuts than sandy beaches, bright sunshine and love-em or hate-em chocolate bars. Sourced from young green coconuts (not the brown furry ones!), coconut water is a nutritious and refreshing drink known for its health properties and for more than 4,000 years it has been a source of nutrition, wellness, beauty and vitality – a great source of potassium, helping you to meet your hydration needs.

Oils and creams and the water gleaned from this tropical fruit have become hits with celebrities, athletes and active-minded people alike, and as you will read for very good reasons. Have a look at some of the great products available to help you revitalize your lives…

ZICO — Active Hydration ZICO brings the benefits of coconut water closer to home. All the delicious goodness of coconut water is conveniently delivered for today’s active lifestyles. As an isotonic drink, and with high levels of potassium, it is not only an ideal replenishment during or after exercise, but makes for perfect all-day refreshment whenever you’re on the go. ZICO is a special blend of coconuts hand-picked in various parts of Asia. The coconuts from individual regions vary in taste, calorie content and nutritional content, so they are blended for consistency of taste, isotonic properties and a low calorie count. As our lives become increasingly active, we’re all looking for ways to make sure we get the most out of each and every action-packed day. For people who live an active lifestyle and strive to be their best – physically

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and mentally, at work and at play – ZICO helps meet those hydration needs. Available in the delicious original coconut flavour, with further flavours set to be launched this year, ZICO’s stylish, recyclable and re-sealable bottle delivers on-the-go convenience enabling you to stay hydrated as part of a healthy, active lifestyle. It’s a great addition to any gym bag and is always on hand to put back what the day takes out!

www.zico.com/uk

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Get into COCONUTTY Goodness! In 2007, having experienced some amazing results using coconut oil, Coconutty’s founder Matthew Stockwell thought about promoting it to others. Natural products like coconut oil can’t be patented and we don’t hear much about them in the doctor’s surgery, but research shows that the coconut tree holds plenty of secrets, which have long been known about throughout the tropical world. A Coconutty vision formed – over the coming years coconut products would surely become more and more in demand. After all, who wouldn’t want an electrolyte-filled sports drink that’s from nature, not a lab (coconut water)? Or a delicious oil full of beneficial fatty acids (virgin coconut oil) that could be used instead of refined nutrient-devoid oils?

The coconut tree seems to have a good answer for everything, with Coconutty delivering organic coconut oil, coconut flour, coconut sugar and coconut water, and the tree itself even capable of producing vinegars and wines! Coconutty’s mission is to promote natural coconut products while supporting local coconut farmers and

families, with at least five per cent of profits going to charities in the producer regions.

Coconutty Ltd 37 Wharfedale Rise Wakefield WF3 1AY Call: 0844 500 3778

www.coconutty.co.uk

Natural & Organic Coconut Products WE SPECIALISE PURELY IN NATURAL COCONUT PRODUCTS AND MAINLY ORGANIC: • Water

• Cream

• Cocotap

• Oil

• Milk

• Soap

• Sugar

• Grater

• Flour

• Fresh green coconuts

• Retail & Wholesale

Get into C oco- n utty Good n ess! Call us 0844 500 3778 or visit

www.coconutty.co.uk Use Coupon Code ‘FLAVOUR’ for 10% online discount

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GO COCO — a coconut water that tastes amazing... Go Coco is a brand new coconut water just launched in the UK, and this health drink is all about the taste! Go Coco was born from the clear water of Thailand’s young, green coconuts, specifically chosen for their distinctly nutty, vanilla. Loaded with vitamins and minerals, including calcium, magnesium and twice as much potassium as a banana, which is essential for optimum brain function, Go Coco’s health benefits are endless – but it is the flavour of this new drink that is starting to create some real buzz within the industry.

Dr Ross Currie, Managing Director of Go Coco, dedicated his time to sourcing the best tasting coconuts from around the world to provide 100 per cent naturally delicious coconut water, while also ensuring that his product still delivers all the same great health benefits too. Coconut water has become increasingly popular over the last few years in America and now in the UK, with many celebrities highlighting it as their health drink of choice. Dr Currie says: “Having spent more than ten years working in the health sector, nutrition is something I have always been very interested in. I watched the buzz around coconut water grow in the States and with its unquestionable natural health benefits I started drinking it myself. However, not all brands were concentrating on the flavour, and it seemed a shame to not use the product because of the taste alone. So I decided to research the different types of coconuts out there, to see if it was possible to obtain a better tasting coconut water while still maintaining all the nutrients and health benefits... and that is how Go Coco was born!” Aside from its great taste and all round goodness, Go Coco has natural isotonic

properties and a perfect balance of electrolytes, making it a great choice for rehydrating. These particular qualities mean it is the ideal, natural choice for people on the go or at the gym as well as athletes and this is also why Go Coco is packaged in a re-sealable plastic bottle. Dr Currie says: “I wanted to marry up the health benefits and taste of Go Coco with the packaging, making it an easy option to have when you’re on the move and most in need of rehydrating. Coconut water actually rehydrates faster than water, so our mission is not only to educate people about its benefits but to encourage them to try it as a great tasting alternative to their bottled water.” Go Coco is 100 per cent natural, with no added sugar or additives, making it suitable for people of all ages, and because it’s low in calories too it is the perfect drink to accompany diets or detoxes. The silky smooth, yet deliciously light flavour makes it a great beverage for everybody, not just the fitness freaks. Already a real hit across the pond, no doubt Go Coco will soon be taking our fair isle by storm.

www.gococodrinks.com Call us 0141 959 1059

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We don’t mind bragging about being an ethically responsible company. We’re all about balance and proud to say we’re doing our bit to give back and reduce our carbon footprint.

That’s nuts! A fascinating fact about coconut water One of the amazing things about coconut water is that it has the same osmotic pressure as that of blood plasma – which means it can be safely administered as an intravenous fluid. In fact it was used during World War II to save the lives of many wounded soldiers in the Pacific, where emergency transfusions using coconut water replaced lost blood plasma. Coconut water has also been used to treat cholera because of its electrolyte properties.

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ACTIVE HYDRATION

COCONUT WATER ON THE GO Low calorie - only 60 calories per bottle. Isotonic, Contains the essential electrolyte potassium which helps maintain normal muscle function. No fat. No added sugar (contains naturally occuring sugars) zico.com/uk

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twitter.com/ZICO_London

facebook.com/ZicoUK

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The original organic Dr Martins coconut juices – Are you in the know? Reassuringly unique

Reassuringly classy

Reassuringly tasty and nutritious Dr Martins – Naturally functional, because we know you want harmony with nature. patented organic coconut water. I fully endorse it, and I have seen the benefits first hand over many years.”

Born from years of international nutritional and medical research by a true practising medical doctor, the original Dr Martins coconut juice was first introduced to an audience of some 300 physicians during the Olympic Games of Athens in 2004, showing the superior performance naturally obtained with the unique Dr Martins organic juice. Since then, and based on a truly sustainable organic business philosophy, Green Coco has grown with the support of a loyal customer base that now includes elite athletes, professionals, kids, dads, mums, and many more, to become the largest organic coconut brand in Europe.

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Dr Martins’ foods are bio-ethic products. Dr Martins places a great emphasis on sustainable production - from the cultivation of organic coconuts to environmentally friendly procedures. The high quality of the raw material is ensured through the organic growers’ fair pricing and purchasing guarantee. You will no doubt enjoy it thoroughly. In the course of his two decades of experience as a paediatrician and sports physician, Dr Martins is often asked which beverage, other than water or breast milk, would be an ideal and healthy food complement. Dr Martins explains: “Coconut water from 100 per cent young green organic coconuts is one of the purest and healthiest drinks provided by nature. Inhabitants of tropical regions have been enjoying this extraordinary drink for many centuries. They ingest it for the purpose of refreshment, revitalisation, rehydration, and nourishment and in order to maintain proper food and fluid levels in their bodies. There are many more beneficial properties from our uniquely

Green Coco UK 1 Farnham Road Guildford Surrey GU2 4RG United Kingdom Email: info@greencoco.co.uk

Call us 0207 183 8844 ur

www.greencoco.co.uk/flavo www.dr-martins.info

25/01/2012 18:02

ESSENCE OF EDEN Founded in 2004, Essence of Eden has supplied the UK market consistently with excellent quality organic coconut oil. Being a centrifuged top oil means the moisture content is practically zero yet the oil retains all its nutritional value, creating the beautiful flavour and texture that has resulted in four awards in the last three years! No other coconut oil has received such awards and it is a testament to the company’s commitment to detail, quality control and customer service that combine to make Essence of Eden stand out as a market leader with this

gastronomically rewarding product. To try your first purchase at a discounted rate, type the promo code Try Me Now into their buy online link on the company website. Offer limited to one 230g jar per customer. Available from Independent health food stores and online, Essence Of Eden is a premium alternative to traditional cooking oils.

www.essenceofeden.com

Flavour s Coconut Bliss Purple Balance, a young, vibrant and enthusiastic company with only natural and high-quality products, has teamed up with flavour and come up with a smoothie to end all smoothies… Making sure each and every product Purple balance produces is manufactured with respect and love, their range of formulas come from wholesome real foods and include ingredients such us bee pollen, spirulina, cacao powder, lucuma and many other longevity foods.

smoothies you have a powerful drink that can enhance your energy, vitality and well-being.

When you mix these rich dense ingredients with fresh juices or

For more information about the products Purple Balance offers call: 07904 851308

Coconut Bliss INGREDIENTS Coconut water (quantity dependent on taste) Coconut flesh (0.5-1 coconut) 1 banana Handful of frozen berries Pinch of Himalayan salt Teaspoon of honey METHOD Add all the ingredients to blender – More or less liquid depending on how sweet you like it. For a refreshing summer twist just add a couple of cubes of ice. How simple is that? Yet delicious!

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25/01/2012 18:02

the spice king

> flavour sriram aylur

Dakshini Pepper Chicken Match with Meantime Pale Ale (4.7% ABV) SERVES 4 Ingredients 16 pcs chicken inner fillets For the marinade 2 tbsp Greek yoghurt 1 tsp ginger and garlic paste ¼ tsp black pepper powder 1 sprig pounded green peppercorns 4 pinches of cardamom powder 2 tbsp double cream Salt 1 tbsp oil For curried yoghurt 2 tbsp yoghurt 2 tsp olive oil 1tbsp turmeric powder 1 sprig of fried curry leaves

Also known as ‘The Spice King’, Sriram Aylur is Executive Chef of St James’s Park’s The Quilon, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the world specialising in Southern Indian food.

lack peppercorn is a native of India and is believed to have been taken out of Kerala by Vasco da Gama with the permission of the then King of Malabar. Telecherry pepper (the name of a place in Kerala) is considered to be the best, however Vietnam is now the largest producer of pepper in the world. Before the introduction of chillies (by the Portuguese) to India, pepper was the spice used to provide heat in food. Pepper is considered to be antioxidant and anti-carcinogenic and plays a very important part in Ayurveda medicine due to its healing qualities. For example, pepper powder mixed with honey is a good cure for a bad throat and chest congestion. The decoction of peppercorn, jaggary and coriander seeds boiled with water is a good remedy for congestion, diarrhoea, constipation, etc... Green peppercorn is the immature peppercorn plucked fresh and can also be used in cooking. It also works well when pickled. However, green pepper is not as

Method 1 Wash, clean and pat the chicken dry.

intense in flavour or heat as black pepper. White pepper is the black peppercorn without the outer coating. Pink peppercorn is from a different plant altogether, originally from Peru, and lacks the flavour and sharpness of black pepper. To get the best result out of peppercorn it is a good idea to crush it just before use – this ensures the best flavour and taste. Like all spices it needs to be stored in an airtight container and a cool place. Its greatest advantage is that it can be used cooked or uncooked, unlike chillies, which, when uncooked, can hurt the back of your mouth. Peppercorn could be from India, Vietnam, Madagascar, Malaysia, Indonesia, Ecuador, Brazil. I personally use Telecherry pepper at my restaurant, Quilon. In fact, I import it directly. Here’s a recipe using green peppercorns, which is rarely seen in Indian recipes.

2 In a clean bowl, put the yoghurt, ginger garlic paste, black pepper, pounded green peppercorns, cardamom powder, cream and salt. Mix thoroughly and marinate the chicken with this mixture. Keep aside for 15-20 minutes. 3 Make the curried yoghurt sauce to serve with the chicken. 4 Heat the olive oil and add the curry powder, yoghurt, salt and crushed fried curry leaves. Remove from heat, strain and keep cool.

5 Heat the griddle or non-stick pan. Sprinkle a little oil and fry the chicken a few pieces at a time. Cook and turn the chicken to cook the other side. 6 Remove and serve immediately with curried yoghurt sauce.

www.quilon.co.uk 23

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25/01/2012 12:58

> flavour roux at the landau

roux at the landau Okay, so you watch TV’s Masterchef and Monica Galetti says that Michel Roux Jr’s a very hard man to please. Every dish must be 100 per cent perfect before being brought to the great man. Nick Harman reckons he doesn’t just look like God, he is God...

o logically the second best thing to eating a dish cooked by Michel must be one cooked by a chef he has chosen for the job. Which is why we found ourselves at Roux at the Landau, ready to tackle the wine-pairing menu of Chris King, Michel’s head man in the kitchen there. There is real theatre to Roux at the Landau, from the walk down the corridor of wine bottles sleeping quietly behind glass walls, to the grand dining room with its curved end window and ornate decoration. Staff sweep us to our table with relaxed aplomb, even my Marks & Spencer suit (weddings, funerals and fine dining for the use of) doesn’t draw a flicker of disdain. We are seated, fluffed, feted and fussed over and then left to read the menu. The beauty of a tasting menu of course is that there is actually no menu. We’re given the details in a leather-bound holder and then it’s taken away and replaced with a smaller paper-only version with which to monitor progress. A decent interval is left and then we’re into a light roast chestnut broth with wilted chanterelles and thyme gnocchi. The sweetness of the chestnut is pointed by hints of thyme, while the smoothness of the gnocchi goes well against the rubbery bite of the chanterelles. Our Gaba do Xil, Valdeorras, Spain, 2009 is an unusual and interesting choice of the Godello grape, but wine pairings are all to do with being intrigued, surprised and hopefully delighted.

Mackerel is the fish I’d least like to catch on my desert island so my heart sinks a little at the sight of seared Cornish mackerel with kohlrabi, preserved lemon and dill. The mackerel is just perfect though, with a seared skin that simply splashes flavour. The preserved lemon has just the right level of acidity and the wine, a Domain Gavoty, Cuvée Clarendon, Côtes de Provence, France, 2009, has the classic lemon and apple attack of the Cinsault grape needed to cut the oil and caramel notes of the fish. Waiters flit about, napkins are straightened, belts are loosened and we’re into the roast scallops with spiced red pepper, fennel and aubergine. I find scallops a bit ho-hum, but you certainly can’t fault the cooking. Superb quality scallop caramelised on the outside, palpatingly fresh on the inside, shows excellent sourcing and psychic powers on the hot plate. The wine is a Roussanne, Domaine de la Croix Gratiot, France, 2009 and is another ideal pairing. The next wine, a Saumur Champigny, Domaine Le Pitet Saint Vincent, France 2008, has long, smooth, dry tannins, which emphasise every molecule of sweetness in our Woolley Park Farm quail with medjool dates, cauliflower and ras-elhanout. I love the Middle Eastern vibe, a real surprise dish and one that makes me re-evaluate quail, a bird I have previously tended to regard as a lot of bones with meat attached. With the arrival of roast loin of venison with buckwheat spaetzle, peppered parsnips and sour cherries we’re on the home straight, As before dish and wine

are both explained to us in a brief but informative manner. The venison is so rare I think I see it move, but that’s how I want it. The sour sweet cherries are right to balance the meat and the wine, a red in the shape of Gigondas, Grand Montmirail, France, 2008, is 14.5% of heart-warming flavour and a real crescendo in the flight of wines. French cuisine means cheese before dessert, and the selection is fine and the waiter patient as we hum and haw over the choice. Quinta de la Rosa, LBV, Portugal 2005 Port, barrel-aged for four to six years, is perhaps a cliché but it’s a highly drinkable one if you go for the blue cheeses. And finally, as we begin to sag a bit in our seats, comes a spiced plum soufflé with red wine ice cream and sable crumb partnered with Muscadelle Rietvallei Robertson, South Africa, 2009. We lap it up and realise despite the number of courses we are neither feeling fat nor feeling drunk, just pleasantly sated. Some say such classic dining is dead, I say once in a while it’s just what’s needed to raise the spirits. A tasting menu is a treat and an unique shared experience. It’s something to really savour and Roux at The Landau does it with quiet perfection. Roux at The Landau 1c Portland Place Regent Street London W1B 1JA 020 7965 0165 www.thelandau.com

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there is real theatre to Roux at the Landau, from the walk down the corridor of wine bottles, to the grand dining room...

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25/01/2012 13:02

love

food

With recipes for moreish breakfast treats, easy soups and salads, hearty lunch offerings, flavour packed suppers and delightfully decadent puddings, Love Food is the culinary equivalent of a lovely long hug.

M TINA BESTER Pavilion £12.99

Many of the recipes have been passed down through the generations, with Tina Bester giving them her trademark twist. Recipes like old-school spaghetti and meatballs, or retro-inspired lamb chops with cornflake crumbs are bound to become legends in your own household. Tina doesn’t mind if her pastry’s wonky – in fact this self-proclaimed ‘no rules girl’ prefers it that way. Love Food reflects Tina’s travels from a ‘no bake’ cook to a purveyor of home-baked treats made the old-fashioned way but with a Queen of Tarts modern twist.

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> flavour love food

potato and bacon frittatas Surprisingly simple to make, these are always crowd pleasers at brunch. INGREDIENTS 3 potatoes, peeled and diced | 4 slices streaky (lean) bacon | 6 large eggs | 250ml/8fl oz/1 cup fresh cream 30g/1oz/¼ cup freshly-grated Parmesan cheese | Salt and freshly-ground black pepper

METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 180˚C/350˚F/Gas mark 4. Lightly butter 12 muffin cups. 2 Cook the potatoes in salted water until tender, drain and divide evenly among the muffin cups. 3 Cut each slice of bacon into three pieces and place a piece on top of the potatoes in each muffin cup. 4 Mix together the eggs, cream, Parmesan and a good grinding of salt and pepper. 5 Carefully fill the muffin cups with the egg mixture and then bake for 20–25 minutes until firm.

(makes 12)

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25/01/2012 13:07

> flavour love food

parmesan-crusted chicken burgers The crust is made using a decadent mix of grated Parmesan, fresh parsley and fresh breadcrumbs. Delicious served with rocket, chives and hot mustard mayonnaise. INGREDIENTS 200g/7oz/scant 1½ cups dried breadcrumbs | 50g/1¾oz/generous ¾ cup parsley, finely chopped 50g/1¾oz/½ cup grated Parmesan cheese | Salt and pepper | 4 skinless chicken breast fillets | Flour for dusting 2 large eggs, lightly beaten | Olive oil for frying | 4 fresh bread rolls | Fresh rocket (arugula) leaves, to serve | Fresh chives, to serve

METHOD 1 Combine the breadcrumbs, parsley and Parmesan in a bowl. 2 Salt and pepper the chicken breasts and dip them in the flour, then in the beaten egg and finally coat with the breadcrumb mixture. 3 Fry them in olive oil until just done (about 3–4 minutes on each side). 4 To make the mustard mayonnaise, combine the mayonnaise with the mustard. 5 To assemble the burgers, warm the rolls in the oven for a few minutes, spread liberally with the mayonnaise, top with rocket and chives and add a crisp chicken breast to each one.

(makes 4)

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25/01/2012 13:07

> flavour love food

moussaka One of those dishes of which one helping is never enough – and eaten by the spoonful straight out of the fridge the next day, it’s even better! INGREDIENTS Salt and freshly-ground black pepper | 4 aubergines (eggplants), sliced Olive oil | 8 potatoes, peeled | 1 portion basic mince mixture Ground nutmeg | Béchamel sauce | 125g/4½oz/generous ½ cup butter 125g/4½oz/generous ¾ cup flour | 1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups milk

METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to 180˚C/350˚F/Gas mark 4. Season the aubergine and fry in the olive oil until just crispy. 2 Boil the potatoes until tender, allow to cool and then slice lengthways. 3 To assemble the moussaka, layer the mince, aubergine and potatoes and then repeat the layers, ending with a layer of mince. 4 Pour the béchamel sauce over the moussaka and dust with a little nutmeg. Bake for 30 minutes until it starts to bubble around the edges. Serve with fluffy basmati rice. 5 To make the béchamel sauce, melt the butter in a pot, add the flour and combine well. Slowly add the milk, stirring it with a whisk to remove any lumps. Cook the sauce until it has thickened, stirring it all the time.

(serves 8)

bread and butter pudding The buttered croissants make this dish extra indulgent – leave it to stand for at least an hour before baking to ensure that the custard soaks into every nook and cranny. INGREDIENTS 4 croissants, sliced | Butter | Apricot jam (jelly) | 2 tablespoons raisins 3 large eggs | 100g/3½oz/½ cup sugar | Pinch of nutmeg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract | 500ml/17fl oz/2 cups warm milk

METHOD 1 Cut the croissants into diagonal slices and spread butter and jam on each slice. Layer them in a lightly greased baking dish and sprinkle each layer with raisins (but don’t put raisins on the top, as they will burn). 2 Beat the eggs, sugar, nutmeg and vanilla together in a bowl and then pour the warm milk onto the egg mixture, beating all the time. Make sure that all the sugar has dissolved. 3 Pour the mixture through a strainer and then pour it over the croissants and allow it to stand for at least 1 hour before cooking. (This is important otherwise it ends up tasting very ‘eggy’.) 4 Preheat the oven to 180˚C/350˚F/Gas mark 4 while the pudding is standing and bake for about 30–45 minutes.

(serves 6–8)

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25/01/2012 13:07

WALKER & SON

THE PERFECT

st valentine’s day MEAL With St Valentine’s Day on 14 February, this is very much a month for lovers everywhere, and as we all know, love and food go hand-in-hand.

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Nothing is more romantic than a cosy meal for two, so what better way to treat the one you love on St Valentine’s Day than with a hearty, warming meal with a delicious hot pie at its centre? The Classic Chicken, Bacon and White Wine Walkers pie twin pack made by Walker & Son contains two rich crust pastry pies, one for you and one for your love, filled with tender British chicken and bacon in a creamy white wine sauce. The Chicken, Bacon and White Wine packaging itself is pink, adding to the romantic feel. Especially delicious at this time of year when served with steamed vegetables and steamed new potatoes, the Classic Chicken, Bacon and White Wine pie is delicately flavoured with herbs and spices. This pie is part of a new range of hot pies from Walker & Son which is available from Waitrose. Also in the range are; Supreme Steak pie; Sumptuous Steak & Stilton pie (all available as two x 250g twin pack); and a single Glorious Chicken & Chorizo Pie (250g). The single pie retails at £2.79 and the two-pack pies at £4.99. Based in Leicestershire in the very heart of England, Walker & Son are experts in the fine art of pie making. Founded in 1824 by Mark Walker

and his son, the family-run butchers soon became something of an institution within the region, respected for its pork pies. The new hot pies are baked at Walker & Son bakery, which boasts a trophy cabinet that underlines the company’s heritage and expertise. The Master Pie Maker, Ian Heircock, has been baking the Walkers Pork Pie for over 30 years and his passion is reflected in the premium quality and taste of everything that comes out of Walker & Son. Ian has been recognised for the quality of this pies at the British Pie Awards where in the last three years he has won 84 certificates, been crowned Supreme Champion twice (2009 and 2010) as well as winning the Best Pork Pie Class in 2011. In addition to his British Pie Awards success, Ian also received a Grocer Food & Drink 2011 Award for the Walkers Large Pork Pie.

For more information on Walker & Son and its range of pies, please see:

www.walkerspies.co.uk 31

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25/01/2012 14:20

> flavour the rectory

Sticking to New Year’s resolutions was not on the menu for Catherine Hannah during an overnight stay in the Cotswolds...

The Rectory I

imagine most people spent the first weekend of 2012 frantically trying to shed a few pounds and undo the damage done by the over-indulgence of the festive period. I, however, spent it unashamedly indulging a little bit more. With not a lettuce leaf or treadmill in sight, I headed off to The Rectory in the heart of the Cotswolds for some serious R&R. Just an hour-and-a-half from London and a stone’s throw from Cirencester, Tetbury and a host of other Cotswold gems, The Rectory is the perfect base to explore the surrounding area and escape to the country to unwind. Its award-winning sister, UK pub of the year The Potting Shed with its growing reputation, is a mere stroll across the green. In spite of all the local attractions, there isn’t really any need to go anywhere. Everything about The Rectory is all geared up for complete relaxation and escapism, from the eclectic décor to the roaring fires. One member of staff explained, “Most people get what we’re trying to achieve here, but one or two just think the furniture doesn’t match.” Indeed it doesn’t; ultra-modern glass and metal sculptures perch on period dressers next to battered comfy armchairs and modern artwork. The overall effect is elegant, warm and stylish, a series of quirky but cosy spaces which invite you to make yourself at home. Traditional comfort, with a modern twist. With an abundance of reading material and board games as entertainment, I was set for the afternoon. Children and dogs are welcomed here (not just tolerated) so our little King Charles pottered about making friends and being spoilt while we lazed away the afternoon in comfort.

Food at The Rectory was as you would expect; a changing menu of locallysourced meat and seasonal produce cooked imaginatively and skilfully and served in a warm and relaxed setting. The service, like everything else here is laid back. Every need is catered for but it’s done without fuss or formality. There was not a sommelier in sight, however every member of staff we encountered was knowledgeable, efficient and… (gasp!) wearing casual clothes. It was a refreshing change. After some perusing of the menu, canapés and aperitifs in the drawing room, I opted for seared scallops, mushy peas and black and white pudding followed by old spot belly pork with apple fondant, crackling and port sauce. Both were well-executed, well-presented and at just a little over £30 a head for three-course fine dining, extremely reasonable. My partner chose a delicate ravioli of crab and salmon with wilted spinach and fish cream sauce for his starter, and thought that his main course of venison with dauphinoise potatoes, savoy cabbage and blackberry and cassis sauce was perfectly cooked if a little rich for our post-Christmas palates. Our deserts were less memorable but the other courses more than made up for it. The wine list was varied and covered all bases, for all occasions and budgets from a wallet-friendly £16. Champagne, cocktails and wine by the glass or half bottle are also available.

with luxurious touches and modern gadgets. The comfortable seating (and more reading material), freestanding bath and enormous bed meant I had everything I needed for whiling away the morning at the same time as taking in the view of the attractive gardens and outdoor pool, lovely even in the depths of winter. I imagine that a lazy summer evening spent in the garden would be pretty special indeed. All that relaxing left me hungry and we headed down for a late breakfast, which for me was one of the highlights of my stay. There was something for everyone; a full English for those who didn’t bother to make a New Year’s resolution, and fruit salad, homemade porridge and homemade granola for those who did, as well as everything in-between; made to order, all locally sourced and served with a smile. A perfect end to a lovely night away. I may have fallen off the diet wagon in spectacular style, but I came away from The Rectory feeling refreshed, relaxed and thoroughly spoilt. Life’s too short to be virtuous all the time...and there’s always next year.

The Rectory

Crudwell Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 9EP 01666 577194 www.therectoryhotel.com

As you would expect from the décor and atmosphere that has been created elsewhere in The Rectory, our room was equally well-designed and restful. It was airy, comfortable and spacious, furnished in calming colours in a traditional style

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In spite of all the local attractions, there isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really any need to go anywhere.

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25/01/2012 14:26

FLAVOUR’S VIP LOUNGE

BUREAU CLUB Tucked away in the heart of Soho, Bureau Club is a private members’ bar and boutique nightclub bringing together established names and bright young things from all over the capital and beyond. The intimate venue operates as members only in the truest sense of the word.

nside the club, the homely and sophisticated décor unveils an unexpected warmth and understated luxury. Architect Satmoko Ball juxtaposed contemporary styling with the spirit reminiscent of a house party where comfortable sofas, rich art deco furniture, Swarovski chandeliers and bespoke fabrics make for just enough decadence to feel that this is the place to be. Using only the finest materials, the difference lies in the

attention to detail, where comfort and privacy are the order of the day. With a capacity of about 100 persons, Bureau Club is the antithesis of impersonal West End nightclubs and the perfect party space for the like-minded social aficionado. It is where exemplary service and customer satisfaction will never go out of fashion, from tableside mixology, award-winning cocktails, champagne and a fine wine list.

BUREAU CLUB 13 KINGLY COURT LONDON W1B 5PW CALL 0207 494 4386 WWW.BUREAUCLUB.COM

THE CUCKOO CLUB London’s prestigious Cuckoo Club, one of the world’s most in-demand venues, has undergone a complete redesign by Biba founder and iconic designer Barbara Hulanicki, with a new enhanced look unveiled last September.

orking closely with Jamie Lorenz, owner of The Cuckoo Club, world-famous designer Barbara Hulanicki has ensured The Cuckoo Club retains the elegance that makes it a regular choice for celebrities and VIPs, while reaching back to its roots to deliver

more rock‘n’roll glamour to London’s party scene with a strong emphasis on live music. Established neon maker Kerry Ryan, who has been designing Tracey Emin’s neon art work for over 18 years, as well as working alongside

artists Douglas Gordon, Franko B, Anselm Kiefer and Mark Titchner to name a few, has also created unique bespoke work for the club. The Cuckoo Club embraces swaggering attitude and the edgier side of the arts, yet paradoxically provides luxurious surroundings to enjoy it in!

THE CUCKOO CLUB SWALLOW STREET LONDON W1B 4EZ CALL 0207 287 4300 WWW.THECUCKOOCLUB.COM

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CHINAWHITE Nestled in the ground floor of the well-renowned Chinawhite, this diminutive restaurant – which shares the club’s namesake – boasts an intimate and relaxing dining room, something of a sanctuary from the revelry below it.

he décor is sleek, moody and contemporary; cleverly placed lighting illuminating the hand painted Chinese wallpaper, Balinese carved friezes and contemporary chandeliers. Head chef Adam Penney has cooked in some of Britain’s finest kitchens, including the award-winning Horseshoe, Bibendum, and The Lonsdale in Notting Hill. The cuisine he serves is classic Asian with a modern and western twist. Expect to see such delicacies as Kung Pao chicken, sashimi tuna, blackened halibut, griddled watermelon and toasted

ricotta salad as well as grilled foie gras with langoustine. With spice blends direct from India, China and Japan, meat from free-range farm Devon Rose and seafood straight from Cornish fishing boats 24 hours before delivery, Adam and his team are passionate about food and its origin. This is a restaurant well-deserving of its current popularity – with its strong ethos regarding the provenance of produce and skilled and dedicated team, Chinawhite looks sure to stand the test of time.

CHINAWHITE 4 WINSLEY ST LONDON W1 CALL 0207 290 0580 WWW.CHINAWHITE.COM

THE VALMONT CLUB The Valmont Club is a 300 capacity nightclub with striking interior design, an impressive cocktail list and a desirable location on the Fulham Road, Chelsea.

schewing the hackneyed VIP room mentality, The Valmont Club provides a refreshing alternative to the often one-dimensional Chelsea nightlife by creating an inclusive atmosphere where revellers can enjoy expertly created drinks and excellent music. Split into four main areas, each with its own distinctive décor, The Valmont Club is able to create an atmosphere

to suit every mood. The Electric Salon, with its bespoke upholstering and rearing stallion sculptures, creates a bold first impact, while the exquisite private booths, designed with velvet panels and antique lighting, provide the perfect setting for decadent, dangerous liaisons. The neon lounge features a spectacular lighting system like no other in London, where neon strips pulse in response to the music being played.

THE VALMONT CLUB 266-266A FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW10 9EL CALL 0207 352 6200 WWW.THEVALMONTCLUB.COM

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Whilst other venues enjoy brief moments as the new “hotspot of London”, Chinawhite is firmly established as one of London’s most timeless, famous and aspirational members’ clubs; presiding alongside top nightclub brands the world over. Once through the doors you are enveloped in modern day oriental opulence creating distinct changes in mood and tempo as you move through the club’s 3 rooms. Upstairs the restaurant provides an exquisite Pan Asian menu created by Head Chef Adam Penney, who has over 15 years experience working for some of London’s most celebrated fine dining restaurants. A fine meal and then some dancing... a whole night in one location – couldn’t be simpler.

Contact: Email book@chinawhite.com or Call 020 7291 1480 for full information and reservations

www.chinawhite.com

ITALIAN FOOD, GUSTO AND AMORE A MEMORY OF ITALY

It is where your heart belongs when you want that little something special; it’s a pleasant memory that you may wish to revive for a moment...

We offer a romantic dinner over soft jazz music and candlelight every night at Cristini, but February 14 we’ll go the extra mile to make a dinner not just a romantic dinner, but something special to

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I TA LI AN RE STAU RA N T

be remembered with that special someone. There will be live music and we’ll have a set menu to include oysters, truffles, lobster and champagne with a side of elegance, charm and romance...

0207 706 7900 www.cristini.co.uk 28 SUSSEX PLACE LONDON W2 2TH

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> flavour hubbub

HEALTH KICK, HUBBUB STYLE

Hubbub is the London-based home delivery service for local independent shops, bringing together the convenience of online ordering with the quality, service and expertise of your local butcher, baker and cheesemaker. A post-Christmas health kick can be hard to stick to (not to mention boring!) so here are our tips for how to stay on the wagon and off the tartiflette.

1 UMAMI

2 FAST FOOD

One of the five basic tastes – along with sweet, sour, bitter and salty – umami is that delicious ‘savouriness’ found naturally in foods such as tomatoes, oily fish, seaweed, beef, cabbage and mushrooms. Fermented and dried ingredients like miso paste, fish sauce and soy sauce are very high in umami and make low fat food like vegetables and noodles super tasty without adding extra fat or sugar. Try braising aubergines, garlic and cavolo nero with miso, and serve with steamed rice or fish.

Not takeaway; fish! Fish and seafood are not just quick to cook, they’re also full of protein, low in fat and rich in Omega 3 oils (which help you absorb all the good stuff). They work a treat with fresh herbs, zingy citrus fruits and clean Oriental flavours so you can bid adieu to the creamy sauces. Choose line-caught Cornish or Scottish mackerel or sustainably farmed rainbow trout for a healthy, economical and sustainable supper. Make our sticky Oriental mackerel glazed with soy, honey and mirin, or roast whole rainbow trout stuffed with shallots, lemons and chilli flakes.

3 SWAP YOUR ROOTS

4 LITTLE AND OFTEN

Potatoes and parsnips have a high glycaemic index (GI) so the sugars they contain are absorbed quickly, leaving you hungry again before too long. Instead, opt for lower GI roots like sweet potatoes, turnips and squash. Roast your veggies in a little oil with fennel, plenty of fresh herbs, whole garlic cloves and a big squeeze of lemon. Once cooked, stir through bulgur wheat, chickpeas or quinoa – all rich in protein to keep you full for longer – and serve warm or cold, right away or packed for lunch the next day.

Keep a bowl of fruit within easy reach at work and a handful of raw, unsalted nuts in your top drawer. For those with a sweet tooth, medjool dates will fill that sticky toffee-shaped hole. We love to have a big bowl of fruit salad on standby for an easy-peasy breakfast, dessert or snack that’ll keep in the fridge all week. Our favourite has chunks of grapefruit, oranges, passion fruit, mango and pineapple.

For all these recipes and many more visit www.hubbub.co.uk/flavourmagazine Call: 0207 354 5511 Visit: www.hubbub.co.uk

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Britain’s best kept secret SSSShhhh.... We love our award-winning Walkers pies so much; we want to share them with the rest of Britain! With their distinctive taste and richcrust pastry, the pies have been enjoyed in Leicestershire since 1824. Grab one quickly before the secret is out! Where to buy For more information on Walker & Son please see:

www.walkerspies.co.uk Follow us on Twitter @Walkersandson

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Pork Pie: Co-op • Morrisons Sainsbury’s • Waitrose • Tesco Hot Pie: Waitrose

Find us on Facebook under Walker & Son and tell us what you think of our pies

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Your lifestyle guide to all things eco...

February 2 2012

Towards a green games Is London on track on track to deliver a sustainable 2012?

The Cochabamba Project Practical support for the Amazon Rainforest

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Ecowarmth Beat both the recession and winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s icy grip

26/01/2012 00:45

Do you know where your electricity comes from? Ours comes from the sun and the sea, the wind and water. Produced by a community of over 6,000 independent generators. And because we’ve held our prices since April 2009, we tend to cost less than the ‘Big 6’ standard tariffs. Local, natural, everlasting. This is Good Energy.

Together we do this 0845 456 1640 goodenergy.co.uk

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greenliving

Editor: Nick Gregory Email: nick@greenlivingmagazine.co.uk Art Director: Bruce Mytton Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Helen Kembery Email: helen@greenlivingmagazine.co.uk greenliving magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 Visit: www.greenlivingmagazine.co.uk For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@greenlivingmag.co.uk © Copyright 2012 greenliving. All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of greenliving. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, greenliving accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of greenliving. greenliving magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed.

Welcome... Welcome to Greenliving, your essential guide to navigating towards a healthy and eco-friendly lifestyle. A greener way of life doesn’t necessarily require massive upheavals; there are plenty of practical, small-scale actions we can take to help both the planet and our pockets, from car sharing to changing to a greener energy provider. The London Olympics are edging closer and this summer is set to be a landmark in the annals of British history. A huge amount of money has been invested in the invigoration of areas of East London, and we take a look at the issues surrounding the practicalities of hosting what has been touted as ‘the first sustainable Olympic and Paralympic Games.’ Greenliving is always looking for forward-thinking ideas and outlooks on green issues. We would be interested to hear your views – send any thoughts, articles, news or other contributions to nick@greenlivingmagazine.co.uk.

Change starts with us... Nick Gregory

For more information, please contact: Peter Francomb Email: peter@greenlivingmag.co.uk

www.greenlivingmagazine.co.uk

Please recycle this product.

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News greenliving

Take a leaf out of the South West’s book Twenty community groups across the South West were celebrating recently after being named as winners in the first phase of the Government’s new community energy fund. The new Local Energy Assessment Fund (LEAF), launched at the start of December, saw hundreds of groups from across England and Wales apply for a share of £10 million in funding

Climate Week Climate Week is a supercharged national occasion that offers an annual renewal of our ambition and confidence to combat climate change. It is for everyone wanting to do their bit to protect our planet and create a secure future. Thousands of businesses, charities, schools, councils and others will run events during Climate Week on 12-18 March 2012. They will show what can be achieved, share ideas and encourage thousands more to act during the rest of the year.

www.climateweek.com

from the Government to help boost energy saving or green energy projects. The South West emerged as the big winners, with a quarter of the successful groups coming from the region.

www.cse.org.uk

Urban Meadow supports Fairtrade Fortnight Ethical kids clothing website The Urban Meadow will be supporting Fairtrade Fortnight with a series of special offers on Fairtrade brands such as Greenbaby and Boys & Girls. They will be featuring a different daily deal each day of Fairtrade Fortnight on their website. Greenliving readers get 10 per cent off throughout February. Simply quote ‘GREENLIVING’ at checkout to receive your discount. Fairtrade fortnight is 27 February – 11 March 2012.

www.theurbanmeadow.co.uk

Climate Week also incorporates Climate Week Cuisine, where the focus is on making at least one meal with a low carbon footprint that week. This recipe, from Angela Hartnett, is great to cook during Climate Week as mushrooms are a British product, can be found in abundance and therefore don’t need to be shipped across the world. They’re full of flavour, come in many varieties and make a hearty meal.

clean, or if they are very dirty, wash them in cold water, drain and dry. Cut the mushrooms into thick strips. 3 Heat olive oil in a pan and sauté the mushrooms with 2 crushed garlic cloves. Season and add flat leaf parsley. Spoon the mushrooms onto the puff pastry and sprinkle over some parmesan. Cut into slices like pizza and serve immediately.

METHOD 1 Roll out 200g puff pastry into a rough circle about 25 cm in diameter and prick the surface with a fork. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Put the pastry on a baking sheet in the preheated oven for about 15 minutes until golden brown. Remove and leave to cool. 2 Clean and trim 300g mixed wild mushrooms. Brush off and dirt and wipe them

Porridge for you, porridge for Africa The pioneering One Brand is introducing One Oaty Goodness porridge, delicious porridge oats, pots and sachets to its existing range of everyday essentials.

sub-saharan Africa are funded in order to provide an essential daily meal of maize porridge to children who would otherwise go hungry.

The porridge follows One’s unique likefor-like proposition whereby buying a One product in the UK directly helps to improve the lives of communities in rural Africa.

The 500g bags of organic oats (original) are ideal for use at home and provide a sustaining and satisfying breakfast.

Through the sale of One Oaty Goodness porridge, school feeding programmes in

www.onedifference.org

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greenliving

Flavour Tasteof thea Olympics with

Wenlock Hampers People from all over the world will be indulging in all things British this summer and after the sporting events, food and drink will be at the top of many visitors’ lists.

ritain has a wide range of culinary offerings and new to the table is the Wenlock Hamper from food group HEART of ENGLAND fine foods. The town of Much Wenlock in Shropshire is recognised as the inspiration for the modern Olympic Games dating back to the local competitions founded by doctor William Penny Brookes in 1860. Wenlock Hampers celebrate this heritage by offering a truly local food and drink experience with all products sourced from artisan producers within a 26.2 mile radius of Much Wenlock – a marathon’s distance! All the food and drink items included in the hampers have been carefully selected by HEART of ENGLAND fine foods to ensure that they will give people a true flavour of Shropshire. The hampers come in different sizes of traditional wicker hamper and limited edition Wenlock Olympics gift boxes with

ambient and chilled options. Products include chutney, jam, infused rapeseed oil, meat, cheese, chocolate, nuts, liqueur, beer and wine – all made in Shropshire. Ranging in price from £16 for a mini gift box up to £125 for the deluxe Marathon Gourmet Hamper, a Wenlock Hamper will provide a delicious and topical taste of Britain in this year of the Olympics. You

can treat yourself, or friends and family, to a tasty memento of the Games while all the sporting action unfolds.

www.wenlockhampers.com

How is Wenlock Linked to the Olympic Games? Dr William Penny Brookes, who lived the majority of his life in Much Wenlock, is regarded as the founder of the modern Olympic Games. He was a campaigner for physical fitness and came up with the idea of holding an annual games for local people to take part in. The first event was held in 1859 and he founded the Wenlock Olympic Society a year later. In 1890 Dr William Penny Brookes was visited by a young French aristocrat called Baron Pierre de Coubertin who was so inspired by the Games that, following discussions with Brookes, he set up the International Olympic Committee in 1894 and the first modern Olympic Games were held in Athens in 1896.

february 2012

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Cost–effective electric heating Ecowarmth: Beat both the recession and winter’s icy grip by heating your home with an eco-friendly installation...

nergy prices and inflation are rising and it is difficult to know what to do about your heating system if it is insufficient or what to do with any savings you may still have in low-interest savings accounts or stuffed under the mattress.

The world economic situation looks more and more uncertain, and the climate is changing too. What to do? It is time to get back to basics and ensure that your fundamental needs of keeping warm in winter are satisfied. There are many new and different electrical heating systems now on the market and Ecowarmth of Plymouth is well placed to offer you two energy saving systems to ensure you stay warm in an affordable manner. Michael Skinley, the owner and founder of family company Ecowarmth spent 30 years living in Germany before returning to his West Country roots and setting up Ecowarmth. His knowledge of latest German Technology is second to none and his company have built up an enviable reputation for high quality products, high quality service and very fair prices. Can you imagine heating your lounge – or any other room for that matter – with an elegant wall hanging showing your favourite painting or photo? With Ecowarmth Infrared panels you can do

just that, and not only reduce your heating bills in a big way but also add a stylish design effect to your home. Maybe you want to have a warm and cosy bathroom? Ecowarmth has heated mirrors that do that, too. There is also an Infrared panel to suit the room you need heating, as well as your taste and needs. All options are thermostatically controlled by a unique wireless control system for maximum comfort and economy of energy usage. Try a Gustav Klimt painting on fabric, (using only 630W of power) which can produce enough heat to warm an average lounge. You can also choose your own picture, too!

answers. By investing your money wisely you will reap the benefits, not only financially, but also from having a cosy, well-appointed home. Call: 0800 027 3799 Visit: www.ecowarmth-sw.com

For the customer preferring a more traditional look, the company supply their well-established “Radiators With Brains” heating system and have a huge number of happy and warm customers all over the UK.

Plain Painted Infrared Panel

For innovative and low-consumption heating solutions, Ecowarmth has the

Traditional Style Electric Radiators

february 2012

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greenliving

New festival brings yoga to everyone in Devon A

new yoga festival has been announced for 2012 with the aim of bringing together top-quality teachers, comfortable accommodation, award-winning food and the stunning environment of the rural West Country. The Devon Yoga Festival will be held in August at Seale Hayne near Newton Abbot in Devon, and will bring together some of the South West’s and the country’s top teachers. (www.devonyogafestival.co.uk) Organiser Duncan Hulin, from the Devon School of Yoga (www.devonyoga.com), said: “There are a number of yoga festivals around the South West and the country but we felt there was space for something with comfortable accommodation as opposed to camping, full award-winning 80 per cent organic vegetarian catering and a comprehensive programme of workshops and events. We want to appeal to everyone, from curious beginners to experienced yogis. We were delighted when we found Seale Hayne – the facilities are outstanding and the surroundings are stunning; perfect for a weekend of everything yoga.” Teachers travelling from all over the UK to run workshops at the event include David Sye, Swami Saradananda, Gretchen Faust, Steve Brandon and Sama Fabian.

The Festival, which will run from the late afternoon on Friday, August 10 to lunchtime on Sunday 12, will offer over 40 workshops in styles ranging from anusara and satyananda to ashtanga and kundalini. There will be classes specifically tailored for children, beginners and the over 60s, and an evening kirtan. There will also be a number of talks on the philosophy that underpins the practice and, on Saturday only, films about yoga. James Russell, from Exeter Loves Yoga, a member of the team organising the festival, said: “We want the event to be about the holistic practices of yoga, beyond just asana. There will be opportunities to deeply explore pranayama, kriyas and meditation. We hope the whole event will create an atmosphere of joy and mindfulness in a place of great beauty.” (www.exeterlovesyoga.co.uk) The event will be not-for-profit, with donations going to the Dame Hannah Rogers Trust which is based at Seale Hayne, and the Ganga Prem Hospice in India. Ticket prices range from £75 (£55 for children) for a day pass to £195 (£175 for children) for the full weekend, with substantial discounts available for early bird bookings. Call: 01392 420573 Visit: www.devonyogafestival.co.uk

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   

Fed up with banks ? Fed up with the stockmarket? Fed up with greed and speculation? Looking for a real alternative?

The Cochabamba Project is a not-for-profit co-operative society supporting community enterprise in partnership with subsistence farmers across the Bolivian tropics.

We pay a modest rate of interest* to members

but 100% of our trading profit is used to achieve our social objectives

As a member you can make a real contribution NOW to the fight against social and environmental injustice…...

…...and share in a DECENT return* * 7..5% for the year ending 31/10/2010

So what are you waiting for? JOIN US AND HELP MAKE 2012 A YEAR OF CHANGE Visit our website at www.cochabamba.coop Or call: 0114 2368 168 and ask for our share prospectus

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greenliving

Cochabamba

here can be no more damaging an impact on our environment and the future of our planet than the destruction of its most precious ecosystem – the Amazon Rainforest.

Yet whilst we complain of “hard times” here in the UK, destitute communities which have been forced to settle on the fringes of the Amazon have no choice but to employ slash-and-burn farming methods just to produce the food they need to survive. This practice, along with with high birth rates and lack of education, is destroying the precious primary forest at an alarming rate, with catastrophic effects on climate and biodiversity whilst perpetuating a cycle of poverty that we in the affluent west would struggle to comprehend. The Cochabamba Project is a UK registered co-operative society that has raised over £2m over the past three years to support a comprehensive programme of financial and practical support and education for communities living on the western fringes of the Bolivian Amazon.

The society pays for practical support and training for smallholders in the form of a team of professional agronomists who work on a one-to-one basis. The agronomist works together with the smallholder and provides a comprehensive land management plan, which must also include an element of commercial plantation forestry, using one of 18 native species. Some land must also be given over purely to conservation and repair

With improved farming techniques soil degradation is arrested, removing the need for continual slash-and-burn. The families themselves benefit from improved yields, less labour-intensive farming methods and regular payments for the use of their land and labour in planting and maintaining the new trees.

The project involves to date almost 1,000 smallholders and their families and covers approximately 50,000 acres of smallholdings with 3,500 acres of new forest parcels, each averaging just over one acre. The society is able to raise investment in the UK by offering “withdrawable shares” in the same way as a building society share account. As a community benefit society, its shares cannot be traded and all the society’s profits (after paying interest) must be used for the benefit of its target communities in Bolivia. Call: 01142 368168 Visit: www.cochabamba.coop

They will also get 50 per cent of future revenues, with the remainder going to the society to enable it to repay capital and (in comparison to returns from private equity) a modest amount of annual interest.

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greenliving

Inntravel offer wonderfully slow holidays on two wheels amid some of Europe’s most captivating scenery.

hat better way to experience a region ‘up close’ – just as the locals see it – than by spending a leisurely week journeying by bike, with cycle hire included and your luggage transported from hotel to hotel? The wide choice of self-guided routes will appeal to everyone: whether you wish to meander along the country lanes of Menorca, immerse yourselves in the tranquility of rural France, or discover the magical landscapes of Bavaria, you will find this is the perfect way to travel, while minimising your impact on the local environment. You stay at small, charming hotels, and as good food is another vital ingredient of any Inntravel holiday, expect to enjoy memorable dinners of delicious regional cuisine. Inntravel is an idyllic option for those who love the freedom of cycling, with the comfort of a soft bed at the end of each adventure. Web: www.inntravel.co.uk

Blackboy Hill Cycles Blackboy Hill Cycles is an independent, family- run cycle shop situated on Whiteladies Road in Clifton, Bristol Stockists of Specialized, Claud Butler, Falcon, Mongoose, Haro, Wethepeople. Blackboy Hill Cycles offer a repair workshop for all repairs big or small, full services and general check ups for all bikes. We hire bikes at £15 for 24hrs or £50 a week. 10% discount given to students on spares bought (not bikes)

180 Whiteladies Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2XU 0117 9731420 www.blackboycycles.co.uk

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Towards a Green Games Is London on track to deliver a sustainable 2012?

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WORDS EMILY CONRADI

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greenliving

W Emily Conradi is a freelance writer with over four years’ experience in lifestyle and consumer publishing, covering food and drink, hobbies and pastimes, celebrity, real life and social issues. Experienced in PR and marketing, she regularly reviews new bar and restaurant openings and is most likely to be found in front of her laptop with a good cheese board and a glass of red wine. www.emilyconradi.co.uk

hen London presented its bid to the International Olympic Committee (IOC), it pledged ‘the first sustainable Olympic and Paralympic Games.’ The vision: ‘towards a one planet Olympics’. This was taken from One Planet Living, a global initiative developed by WWF and BioRegional – the idea of a sustainable world in which we live within the earth’s means, with an equal share of resources and sufficient space for wilderness and wildlife. Since winning the bid in 2005, the Olympic Delivery Authority (ODA) has seen both successes and disappointments on the sustainability front. In 2007, EDF and The London Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games (LOCOG) promised a low carbon torch. While a new renewable fuel was developed, EDF and LOCOG admitted failure due to time constraints. Despite the promise being made in 2007, EDF’s own press release said “we have been working hard since 2009” – an embarrassing and public defeat. A second disappointment came in April, with the first of three London 2012 Sustainability Reports reporting a target failure to source 20 per cent of energy from renewable resources – one of the ODA’s own Climate Change objectives. On a brighter note, last month saw the ODA and Thames Water opening a “black water” sewage recycling plant. Tasked

with watering lawns and flushing toilets at the 2012 Olympic Park, it is estimated that the £7m recycling plant will help save the park up to 83 Olympic-sized swimming pools of drinking water a year. Shaun McCarthy, Chair of the Commission for a Sustainable London 2012, explained that “the decision to focus the bid on East London was the key factor in driving London to offer ‘the most sustainable Games ever’.” Currently, East London is home to some of Europe’s poorest boroughs and some of the worst contaminated land in London. In comparison to other Olympics, Shaun sees Sydney as the benchmark Green Games to aspire to. “They did some amazing things with water consumption, solar power, recycling and waste,” he says. “I think London has exceeded Sydney, but they should – Sydney won their bid in 1993, 18 years ago. We would expect London to raise the bar from that standard and they have done.” Reports show that the ODA is indeed exceeding certain targets. It has surpassed its goal of a 40 per cent reduction in potable water use, with the help of the new ‘black water’ recycling plant, water-efficient fittings in all venues, rainwater harvesting and filter backwash recycling. In construction, over 85,000 tonnes of embodied carbon has been saved through

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greenliving

efficient building design and average cement substitutions of 32 per cent, 98.5 per cent of demolition waste being recycled – and eight buildings have been reused off-site, 30 new bird and bat boxes have been placed around the Olympic Park site, new trees planted – over 1,000 in East London alone – and three new habitat ponds for amphibians and other aquatic species created. Speaking from the viewpoint of an independent commission, Shaun believes, “the ODA has done a great job of sustainable construction and moving the industry forward.” However, he does recognise the importance of planning ahead: “I would like to see the Olympic Park Legacy Company come up with a long-term master plan that builds on the great standards of sustainable construction left behind by the ODA. The Park needs a plan to achieve zero carbon energy supply in the medium term. We are a long way away from that right now.” When questioned on whether the general public really has an interest in green issues, Shaun responds, “People I meet do not necessarily take a deep interest in what we do, but most people are very pleased that we exist…we hold everybody to account for delivering real sustainable solutions and not just greenwash.” As for the justification of cost, his response is hard to argue with: “Well, what is the justification for investing in an unsustainable Games?”

Sustainability Plan 2012 The 2012 Sustainability Plan aims to address five key themes:  Climate change – minimising greenhouse gas emissions and creating facilities capable of coping with the impacts of climate change.  Waste – minimising waste at every stage of the project, while eliminating the use of landfill and encouraging the development of new waste processing infrastructure.  Biodiversity – minimising the impact of the Games on wildlife in and around Games venues, and where possible enhancing habitats such as the Olympic Park.  Inclusion – promoting access for all, celebrating the diversity of London and the UK, creating new employment, training and business opportunities.

Images: London 2012

 Healthy living – inspiring people across the country to adopt healthier and more sustainable lifestyles.

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3 GENERATIONS OF NATURAL CARE

set out on their trailblazing mission in 1959 to provide a natural alternative to industrial products for wholesome Californians not convinced by the new, alien ingredients being used, or the skin irritations they caused. With their families and futures in mind, created natural but effective formulas to meet the needs of everyone. Nothing frilly, nothing fancy. The pioneering spirit of saw a local enterprise grow to a global household name. Their mission today still remains the same only this time everyone’s invited. Available from natural health stores and leading pharmacies nationwide.

NO PETROLATUM, SODIUM LAURYL OR LAURETH SULFATES, PARABENS OR PHTHALATES

20%

OFF

your next purchase at www.jasonnaturalcare.co.uk. Quote “GLL20” at checkout

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26/01/2012 00:46

Brownsword Hotels A

ndrew and Christina Brownsword, owners of Gidleigh Park, The Bath Priory, Sydney House Chelsea and Abode Hotels are delighted to confirm the successful acquisition of four additional properties – Amberley Castle, Buckland Manor, Lower Slaughter Manor and Washbourne Court. “I am very proud to be custodian of these four new hotels which will, over the next few years, be redirected and refurbished to the highest standards in comfort and hospitality under the Brownsword Hotels umbrella,” says Andrew. Gidleigh Park, beautifully restored and refurbished under Andrew’s guidance, sits firmly at the forefront of the group which is now balanced between Abode’s boutique presence in city centre locations and the splendid collection of country house hotels which the new properties form part of. “We look forward to welcoming you to one of our properties soon and have compiled some tempting introductory offers to prompt your visit, whether that is for a midweek break or indulgent escape, we hope to see you very soon.”

www.brownswordhotels.co.uk

GIDLEIGH PARK Our most luxurious spa suite, Darmeet is currently available at a seasonal offer rate of only £750 per night. www.gidleigh.com

THE BATH PRIORY Late availability on selected dates from £85 per person, per night. www.thebathpriory.co.uk

AMBERLEY CASTLE The ultimate romantic destination, February is dedicated to indulgent breaks. www.amberleycastle.co.uk

BUCKLAND MANOR Comfort in the Cotswolds this winter, from only £195 per night. www.bucklandmanor.co.uk

LOWER SLAUGHTER MANOR A little bit of last minute luxury rooms from only £150. www.lowerslaughtermanor.co.uk

WASHBOURNE Midweek breaks from only £115 for dinner, bed and breakfast. www.washbournecourt.co.uk

ABODE HOTELS Seasonal offers for accommodation and dining at some great city venues across the UK. www.abodehotels.co.uk

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25/01/2012 14:47

CITY E SCAPES

Combe House Devon C

aptivating Combe House Devon, near Exeter, has won the coveted Condé Nast Johansens 2012 Award in the ‘Most Romantic Hotel in UK and Ireland’ category. A magical Grade 1 Elizabethan country manor, restaurant and gardens hidden deep within 3,500 acres on one of Devon’s finest country estates, Combe House oozes romance for a fabulous, fairytale romantic retreat. There are 15 light and airy bedrooms, each individually furnished with small, quirky touches. Cuddle under the canopy of a four-poster bed or unwind in the Linen Suite with its huge, 6ft diameter, round copper wash tub. Romantics can

also choose the pure escapism of the Thatch Cottage, which sleeps just two and is tucked away in the woods nearby; this charming little retreat has its own private walled garden. Couples venturing out can seek hidden coves on secret beaches along the nearby World Heritage coast between Sidmouth and Lyme Regis, returning to Combe in time for some chilled champagne to watch the sun set across the valley. Combe was acquired and refurbished by Ruth and Ken Hunt over 12 years ago. They have also now restored the extensive Victorian kitchen gardens, glasshouses

and potting sheds to the highest standards. Homegrown produce ensures that their two talented Master Chefs of Great Britain create fabulous food – they talk just ‘food yards’ rather than ‘food miles’ at Combe House Devon. The awards were based on responses from guest nomination forms and survey reports, plus the judgement of Johansens’ regional inspectors who visit the hotels featured in their most recent guides. Combe House Devon is recommended by spellbound visitors and locals alike as a favourite place to stay in the West Country. Prices start from £199 B&B per double/ twin room per night.

Combe House Devon, Gittisham, Honiton, near Exeter, Devon, EX14 3AD • 01404 540400 • www.combehousedevon.com

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25/01/2012 15:36

Hanbury Manor S

et in 200 acres of Hertfordshire parkland sits historic Jacobean mansion Hanbury Manor, a Marriott Hotel and Country Club. This enchanting five-star manor house offers two dining options, including the Zodiac restaurant, an elegant dining room with two AA Rosettes and an intimate ambience. This Valentine’s you can indulge in a little romance while you are served a succulent four-course dinner with dishes such as scallops, chicken and tarragon consume, braised tamworth pigs cheeks and a strawberry delice with champagne sorbet for just £75 per person. Or opt for the contemporary Oakes Grill with picturesque views overlooking the championship golf course. Its relaxed atmosphere will allow you to fall in love this Valentine’s while savouring the cuisine of a three-course meal for just £52.50 per person.

Enjoy a traditional afternoon tea in the wood-panelled, baronial Oak Hall with period fireplaces and striking chandeliers. The Valentine’s special – Romance of the Movies – sees afternoon tea for £30 per person on Sunday, February 12 which includes traditional afternoon tea and a glass of bubbly with live music from your favourite romantic movies.

For further information or to make a booking for any of the events please call the hotel and quote Valentine’s flavour. Terms & conditions apply. Pre-booking required. Valentine’s dinner available on Saturday, February 11 and Tuesday, February 14.

Hanbury Manor, A Marriott Hotel & Country Club, Ware, Hertfordshire SG12 0SD 01920 487722 • www.marriotthanburymanor.co.uk

Mortons House Hotel S

ituated in the fairytale capital of the Isle of Purbeck, Mortons House Hotel, in the historic village of Corfe Castle, is a striking 16th-century Elizabethan manor house, sympathetically converted into a 21-room hotel with beautiful antique touches and heaps of character. Many of the bedrooms have fine views of the imposing ruins of the Norman castle and the Purbeck Hills. Treat yourself to a stay in the Elizabethan Room, which boasts a beautiful four-poster bed, a spa bath and traditional stone fireplace. Recent awards include ‘Small Hotel of the Year’ and a Tourist Board ‘Gold Award’, while The

Corfe Castle Dorset

Restaurant boasts two AA rosettes for fine dining and is a popular and enchanting venue for weddings and celebrations. The hotel provides a perfect base for exploring Dorset’s historic Jurassic Coast, with glorious destinations nearby such as Lulworth Cove, Durdle Door and the stunning Studland Beach. It’s worth heading to Mortons House Hotel for the superb cuisine alone but, once you’ve experienced the heavenly hospitality, you won’t want to leave… A very special place!

Flavour readers can enjoy a Special Escape of two nights with breakfast, dinner and wine for just £295.

Mortons House Hotel, East Street, Corfe Castle, Dorset BH20 5EE • 01929 480988 • www.mortonshouse.co.uk

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25/01/2012 15:36

Stapleford Park

Country House Hotel & Sporting Estate

urrounded by the magnificent 500 acres of Capability Brown landscaped grounds, Stapleford Park is the perfect English sporting country estate. The estate sits in the heart of England in Leicestershire, near Melton Mowbray and minutes from Rutland Water. Since Georgian times this impressive house has been the setting for centuries of hospitality, country pursuits, fine living and relaxation. Today the country house hotel and sporting estate guarantees a warm welcome, a calm space and a wide choice of sports, leisure and fine dining.

tournament, The Handa Senior Masters, is a constant challenge to golfers, while the Clarins gold spa offers a comprehensive range of fitness programmes and pampering treatments. Luxurious bedrooms, all individually designed, guarantee a good night’s sleep in style – perfect for weekend breaks. Stapleford Park is much more than just a stately home; it is a home from home.

Hotel guests and members of Stapleford Park are invited to enjoy all the comfort and luxury of this historic country house, as well as the exceptional golf course and luxury spa. The 18-hole championship course, home of last years PGA Stapleford Park, Stapleford Nr. Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE14 2EF 01572 787021 • reservations@stapleford.co.uk • www.staplefordpark.com

omantic Valentine’s Weekend

AT BURFORD HOUSE HOTEL With a slower pace of life, and lovely bedrooms, Burford House is an ideal place to celebrate a romantic Valentines. Arrive Friday 10th February to heart-shaped chocolates and a bottle of pink sparkling wine on ice in your deluxe bedroom, and then enjoy a two-course dinner in the hotel’s Centre Stage restaurant. Awake refreshed to spend Saturday at your leisure. Cocktails will be served in the lounge before taking your seat for our romantic Valentine’s candlelit set four-course dinner. At Sunday breakfast find a red rose on the table for the one you love!

Alternatively, stay Tuesday 14th February with heart-shaped chocolates; pink sparkling wine on ice and a red rose in your deluxe bedroom. Pre-dinner cocktail and romantic Valentine’s candlelit set fourcourse dinner. Tuesday breakfast and checkout.

Deluxe en-suite four poster £525.00* Deluxe en-suite double £495.00*

Deluxe en-suite four poster £326.00** Deluxe en-suite double £316.00**

*Prices are per room based on two-sharing and include accommodation, breakfast, Friday night and Valentine’s dinner, wine/cocktails as stated and VAT.

**Prices are per room based on two-sharing and include accommodation, breakfast, Valentine’s dinner, wine/cocktails as stated and VAT.

99 HIGH ST • BURFORD • OXFORDSHIRE • OX18 4QA

01993 823151 • www.burfordhouse.co.uk

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25/01/2012 15:36

Quintessentially Stylish... an extraordinary and unique city escape

Flav_7_Lon_City Escapes V02.indd 43

25/01/2012 15:36

Barnell Cottage,

on Branscombe, Dev

DEFINITELY NOT YOUR AVERAGE HOLIDAY LETTING COMPANY Rural Retreats are a world away from the average – both for the holidaymaker and the property owners.

Stringent standards ensure a high quality experience, well over 50% of the applicants fail to make it to our portfolio, but if you do, we make sure that, like the guests, you get the best. Rural Retreats are The Holiday Letting Specialist, with over 25 years as the brand for quality cottages and country homes throughout the U.K. we have built a loyal customer base that delights in frequent return visits to a Rural Retreat. An experienced and long serving booking staff are a vital link in productive marketing and occupancy - that key to a good return on your investment – is enhanced by our minimum 2 day stay offer which fills shoulder and off peak seasons efficiently. Our service will be tailored to your circumstances from branded web marketing to a fully managed service throughout the United Kingdom (which takes the hassle out of exploiting 2 & 3 day breaks) If yours is definitely not an average holiday property, get a copy of our Owner’s Brochure by calling 01386 701177 or visit www.ruralretreats.co.uk

The Holiday Letting Specialist

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Rural Retreats Holidays Ltd, Moreton in the Marsh, Glos, GL56 9JY

25/01/2012 15:36

PRIDE OF BRITAIN HOTELS a collection of 43 privately-owned luxury hotels and spas around britain.

choose from contemporary chic to country classics and always be guaranteed superb hospitality. pride of britain is the official hotel partner to the national trust.

TO REQUEST YOUR FREE HOTEL DIRECTORY

CALL

0800 089 3929

OR VISIT WWW.PRIDEOFBRITAINHOTELS.COM

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25/01/2012 15:36

Oxford Thames Four Pillars Hotel

ust over three miles from the centre of the ancient university city of Oxford, this maddeningly beautiful four-star hotel offers an elegant retreat from the bustle of urban life. Set in acres of parkland leading down to the River Thames, its unique architectural style incorporates charming medieval buildings, along with sympathetically designed modern additions. Enjoy a life of rural relaxation in stunning surroundings, whether lounging by the Roman-style pool clutching a cocktail, or wining and dining at the sophisticated River Room Restaurant, where sumptuous dishes will enthuse even the most discerning of foodies.

Hotel guests can make full use of Jerome’s Leisure Club during their stay, and can enjoy the pool, spa bath, sauna, steam room and state-ofthe-art gymnasium. Racquet it up at the tennis court, and enjoy a ramble through the 30 acres of parkland. A trip to Oxford has something to appeal to every visitor. The famous Bicester Village outlet shopping centre is nearby, as is Blenheim Palace, perfect for a day out. The Oxford Thames Four Pillars Hotel is charmed with a lovely blend of the opulent and the atmospheric. Waking up to the chirrup of birds and splendid country vistas sprawled before you is a real treat, not to mention the scent of an imminent full English breakfast!

A warmer winter break Winter is such an enchanting season and, best of all, it enables us to do some of our favourite things, such as wrapping up warm in woollen layers and venturing out for long winter walks among the frosty fir trees, before returning to the warmth and tucking into a hearty meal or cuddling up with a piping hot drink. If these are a few of your favourite things too, you’ll love Four Pillars Hotels’ winter breaks. As well as the two hotels featured, they have a further four hotels located in the English holiday hot-spots of Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire and the Cotswolds, all surrounded by beautiful countryside you can explore. Or if that’s not your cup of tea,

Henley Road, Sandford-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, OX4 4GX • 01865 334444 • www.four-pillars.co.uk/thames

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25/01/2012 15:36

Cotswold Water Park Four Pillars Hotel

at a bargain price? choose from the many local sites and attractions in the area. There’s something to suit all tastes and ages. So join them for an enchanting break and let Four Pillars Hotels warm up your winter!

*Breaks start from just...

£39

per person,

per night including dinner, bed and breakfast, plus children stay and eat for FREE.

For further details visit

www.four-winter.co.uk or call 0800 374 692 *Price is based on a stay at the Abingdon Four Pillars Hotel

his contemporary four-star hotel is located in the heart of the Cotswold Water Park, three miles from Cirencester, and offers guests a wealth of outdoor activities and amenities. Experience superb cuisine while indulging in the stunning views at the top-notch Brasserie. The wide-ranging menu offers both contemporary dishes and traditional favourites with a twist. When the sun takes his hat off, guests can dine on the veranda overlooking the water or alternatively enjoy a bite of modern British grub in The Old Boathouse Pub. Each of the 318 bedrooms feature all the comforts of home alongside modern amenities with some rooms boasting views of the lake.

The delicately crafted interior styling incorporates wood, stone and other natural elements, in keeping with the location. Simply put, the place looks fabulous. The hotel’s location gives easy access to famous cities such as Bath, Bristol, Cirencester, Oxford and the beautiful villages of the Cotswolds, while nearer to home the hotel sits astride a stunning lake, ideal for gentle walks and splendid views. An enchanting destination that combines sleek, modern styling with the thoughtful incorporation of the surrounding natural world, Cotswold Water Park Four Pillars Hotel makes for a great break from traffic lights, hurried crowds and the stress of the tube.

Lake 6, Spine Road East, South Cerney, Gloucestershire, GL7 5FP • www.cotswoldwaterparkhotel.co.uk

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25/01/2012 15:37

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25/01/2012 17:54

MARTINMILLER’S

GIN

> flavour martin miller

BORN OF LOVE, OBSESSION AND SOME DEGREE OF MADNESS Martin Miller is more than just an entrepreneur; he’s a bon-viveur and connoisseur of everything from antiques and historic houses to modern art.

More than anything it’s the water that gives my gin its character. If there were a ‘secret ingredient’ this would be it.

fter selling his famous publication Miller’s Antique Guides he turned his attention to gin distilling. It was 1999 and gin, Martin’s favourite tipple, was in the doldrums and the London bar scene was in the thrall of what Martin called ‘vodka madness’. Miller hit on the idea of creating a super premium gin, better than anything else available at the time; developing the perfect gin regardless of ‘practical, fiscal or even geographic limitations’. This became something of a fixation, perhaps giving rise to the claim he makes for his gin being ‘born of love, obsession and some degree of madness.’ Martin Miller’s was the first of the newwave gins to market and unlike many others that followed has a classic London Dry taste profile. “From the start”, says Martin, “the aim was not to revolutionize gin; rather to reform and improve it.” Out of bounds was the use of exotic new botanicals or bizarre secret ingredients. “The addition of attention gathering botanicals rather misses the point as far as I am concerned.” To this end Martin confined himself to the classic ‘palette’ of gin botanicals, including juniper, cassia, Florentine Iiris, angelica and liquorice.

“Working within these tight confines we looked for ways in which we could ‘up our game’. The breakthrough came in two stages. First we found that by doing two separate distillations, one of the ‘earthier’ botanicals and one of the citrus elements, we had far more control on the overall balance of the gin.” The second stage: “On a trip to Iceland I discovered the near magical qualities of Icelandic springwater. Its softness and purity make it perfect for blending, giving the spirit a delicate softness on the palate and in the mouth. More than anything it’s the water that gives my gin its character. If there were a ‘secret ingredient’ this would be it.” Since its launch in 1999, Martin Miller’s has picked up more accolades and trophies than any other super premium gin, and available in most developed markets throughout the world. You can purchase Martin Miller’s in the UK from Majestic Wine, Oddbins, Nicolas, Spirited Wines, Wine Rack, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Fortnum and Mason. 0207 352 8697 www.millersgin.com

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25/01/2012 17:54

Six O’clock Gin

THE GIN REVIVAL Bramley and Gage have 25 years experience of liqueur manufacture. The fruit-growing lessons learned from starting out on a South Devon fruit farm still guide their sloe gin and liqueur production in Gloucestershire today – from letting it ripen fully and naturally on the bush, to using only the varieties that give the best flavour.

sing only real, whole, fruit, grown in the West Country, the production process ensures that as much of the natural flavour, freshness, and colour of the fruit as possible is retained in the delicious liqueurs and infusions.

Lauded and awarded many times for the quality of their product, Bramley and Gage have accumulated a cupboard full of national and international accolades and trophies, particularly for their signature Sloe Gin. Using the honed and refined techniques that make their fruity products so successful, Bramley and Gage have stepped, intrepidly, into the world of premium-quality clear gin with their new product, Six O’clock Gin. Being up against so many big names in the gin industry is a daunting prospect, but fortunately Six O’clock Gin doesn’t disappoint, producing a smooth, controlled, juniper flavour with a delicate balance of botanicals including coriander, orange peel and elderflower. If that wasn’t enough Bramley and Gage also produce a tonic water which has an exceptional, clean taste from natural quinine. No synthetic flavours, sweeteners or preservatives are used.

Six O’clock Gin and Six O’clock Tonic have been developed to complement each other, allowing G&T drinkers the guarantee of a perfectly balanced gin and tonic. Inspiration for Six O’clock Gin and Tonic came from the diaries and papers of Edward Kain, a 19th century ancestor of Bramley and Gage’s founders, and an intrepid world traveller and inventor. During his seafaring years he eagerly awaited Six O’clock, when he would take his daily anti-malarial tonic combined with a flavourful gin; an institution that he continued back home and which he called his “ginspiration”.

Six O’clock Gin can be found at £27.00 per 70cl gin bottle, £1.00 for a 200ml mixer bottle of tonic and is available from independent off licenses, delis and farm shops as well as some of London and the West’s best bars. Bramley and Gage Ltd Ashville Park Thornbury BS35 3UU 01454 418046 www.bramleyandgage.co.uk

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25/01/2012 18:11

In-between filming BBC One food programmes such as Nigel Slater’s Simple Suppers and Simon Hopkinson’s The Good Cook, BBC Executive Producer Peter Lawrence somehow finds time to tend his organic garden...

Diary of a

r e n e d r a G n e h c t i K toffees left in istmas being the yellow With the only relic of Chr r, a new diet yea k to the future. A new the tin, its time to loo - a renewed TV mas ist overdose of Chr an er aft – d )an rse cou (of r growing season. take on nature for anothe vigour to get outside and r, a few buds With the shortest day ove shrubs and the on are already swelling garlic The . ing spr trees ready for pointing ly ing dar are ns bea and broad . tempted l.. soi their heads through the inent imm the of to flourish but wary is cold, ent otm all The . February frosts ically mag and ee -fr ale y-s uar bleak, Jan ion of pat ici ant quiet; the soil lying in r. yea its first dig of the dark, crisp soil, As the fork pierces the ed back to the it’s easy to be transport the crops that of summer – the memories of those that sts gho succeeded and the nature played t tha cks tri the failed – e. Then, as the and the mistakes you mad turned, they wly clods of earth are slo t seems like wha m fro sly almost miraculou amazing food a culinary wilderness and is no order to starts to appear. There row of parsnips ten what I find; a forgot Edward here, g Kin a ds: here, then spu k Firs and a Pin few a re, the e a Desire tory, perhaps clutch of violet Aaron Vic It’s like a on. oni even the occasional and a timely an’ cle g rin ‘sp horticultural ging. morale boost to keep dig much food this It always amazes me how Often enough to es. vid pro annual ritual ally roast up a usu I ow. arr elb fill a whe gotten harvest random selection of my for emary, throw ros of with a sprig or two near the end o riz cho of in a few hunks e mozzarella som h wit ish fin s and perhap

with a glass of or goat’s cheese. Served pleasure – a hearty red, it’s a guilty as the winter ic, mag of free lunch, a bit e. glooms outsid using up the old, But it isn’t just about new and the the for it really is time into the seed g vin del for perfect moment ns for the year. catalogue and making pla ial to buy seeds I have found it’s essent a bit like s It’ h. mac on a full sto ermarket when sup the to ps tri ng avoidi e to just buy a you are hungry, impossibl hout thinking wit ds packet or two of see produce. For l wil y the nty about the bou isaging the me this also involves env what starts as so meals that I will cook, salad seeds few a at an innocent browse exercise for g tin wri u men a soon becomes year. much of the forthcoming rse over The end result is of cou n belly and tha ger big s ordering; eye as the year ts glu ble eta veg y abl inevit write my uld progresses. I really sho summer (‘I the in ns New Year resolutio time when I a at ), er’ ord r will not ove arrow groaning can hardly push my wheelb h the fire wit with veg. Instead I sit n blasting rai ter win flickering and the long hot the to ft dri and the windows ads, new sal ot sho pea of s day summer beans in potatoes with mint, runner awberries. str of l bow butter and a huge r. yea d goo a be to It’s going

Visit Peter’s website at: www.petelawrencetv.co.uk

Flav_7_Lon_Pete Lawrence.indd 51

25/01/2012 18:40

dispelling the myth of cabbage BY SHU HAN It’s January and February; the worst of the winter months, when the sun is perpetually in hiding and everything is pretty much a variant of the colour grey. Christmas is over, and so is the New Year, and there’s just nothing much to look forward to. Things get pretty dull. I escape to the kitchen as it’s where I know I can get warmth and a little bit of excitement. And I’ve been very excited about cabbage lately, using it in all manners of recipes. I see you wrinkling your nose already. I know it hardly evokes a sense of awe; it’s plain, old-fashioned and conjures up horrible memories of sulphurous, soggy school lunches. But it need not be any of that. It’s one of the most versatile vegetables around, and each of its many varieties offers something slightly different. The savoy cabbage just begs to be stuffed; it’s large and

the beautifully-creased outer leaves serve as the perfect wrap. They’re delicious sliced thinly into noodle-like ribbons and tossed in a quick stir-fry, or added at the last minute to a warming stew. Of course, this works with any of your favourite cabbages; they all stay lovely and crisp as long as you remember not to cook the life out of them. An exception is the red cabbage, absolutely yummy slow-braised with apples and spices. And if you’ve got too many cabbages on hand, why not make kimchi, the fiery Korean pickled-cabbage alternative to sauerkraut? Sure, it’s easy to get seduced by the summery tomatoes and tender spinach on the supermarket shelves flown in from the sunnier lands we pine for, but have a taste of that and compare it to the taste of a fresh, seasonal British cabbage and you’ll see why I get excited about this humble vegetable.

Dim-Sum Style Steamed Cabbage Dumplings I’ve stuffed the cabbage leaves with the classic dim sum filling of pork and spring onions, but you can play around with whatever meat you like, or even make it vegetarian. I’ve made ‘pseud-dolmades’ in a similar fashion by wrapping the leaves of spring cabbage greens around rice, toasted nuts, sweet raisins, and lots of fresh herbs. Ingredients Makes 10 cabbage rolls 5 large cabbage leaves (Savoy varieties like the January King are good, but any would do) 300g minced outdoor-bred British pork 1 bunch of spring onions, finely chopped ½ inch piece of ginger, finely chopped 1 tbsp good soy sauce (traditionally brewed and fermented) 1 tsp toasted sesame oil Generous dash of white pepper Dipping sauce 1 tbsp good soy sauce 1 tbsp black rice vinegar Method 1 In a large bowl, mix the ginger, soy sauce, pepper and sesame oil with the pork, stirring vigorously

in one direction until the mixture comes together. Another tip is to also gather the ball of mixture and slap it back down into the bowl repeatedly for a better springier texture. Stir in the spring onions and leave to marinade. 2 Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and blanch the cabbage leaves so they become more flexible and easy to work with. Refresh in cold water and pat dry. Slice each leaf into half, removing the hard stalk in the meanwhile. 3 To wrap, place 1 tbsp of filling in the centre of the leaf wrapper. Bring the bottom up, the sides together, and then roll away from you, till you get a nice tight cabbage roll. 4 Arrange the cabbage dumplings on a lined bamboo steamer, or you can simply use a plate set over a steaming rack. Steam for 8-10 minutes untill cooked. Serve warm with the soy-vinegar dipping sauce. If you would like to find out more about any of the recipes I mentioned but didn’t have the chance and space to share, just do a search on my blog – Mummy, I can cook!

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25/01/2012 18:46

le manoir A U X Q U A T ’S A I S O N S

For those who love motorbikes, your dream may be to ride the Ducatti 848 EVO with Valentino Rossi as pillion singing a Rossini number made famous by Mario Petri. For flavour editor Nick Gregory however, a trip to Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons could happily fill his eight hours of slumber, but he found it infinitely better when that dream became a reality... 53

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25/01/2012 17:15

> flavour le manoir

The two Michelin-starred Le Manoir is, for most of us, a once-in-a-lifetime experience...

Working in the food industry has been somewhat of an exponential journey. I was grateful and impressed initially with a bag of crisps and a pint of bitter at the local, moving on to two-course meals at wellknown Italian chains and then progressing upwards during my career through the sushi bars, gastro pubs and then country house hotels – all with their merits and none to be sniffed at.

were superb, even though feeling a little ‘after the Lord Mayor’s Show’.

But perhaps now my graph has finally plateaued? If I were to live and die by The Sunday Times then it most certainly has. Voted the best place to stay in Britain and coming second in the paper’s Food List 2011 (The Ledbury headed the field), the two Michelin-starred Le Manoir is, for most of us, a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Le Manoir was not voted the best place to stay in the UK on a whim. The Lavande

Needless to say the accompanying wines matched perfectly – the Champagne beforehand alongside elegant canapés beginning now to take their toll – and so, after petit fours, a coffee and a cognac in the drawing room, our evening’s indulgence came to a close.

Our three puddings of exotic fruit raviole, kaffir lime and coconut jus; Williams pear Almondine, caramel croustillant and ginger sauce and the tiramisu flavours, Cœur de Guanaja chocolate cream all

It’s been two months since we visited Great Milton for a night’s stay at Le Manoir. Since then I have been out in my camper van, been whisked away to Venice, eaten at several well-established restaurants and had a couple of decent nights’ kip in first-class hotels. But, like the one that got away, Le Manoir comes back time and again and reminds me of what I had, where I had once been and where I am unlikely ever to go again. But I think that may just be a good thing. I liked the fact that I was akin to a giggling child, that the wonder and awe was a constant adrenalin rush and the feeling that things didn’t get much better than this. It was my Charlie and The Chocolate Factory moment and I appreciated every single bit of it.

The nine-course Menu Découverte, with a selection of wines chosen by the sommelier for my friend and I, was the must-have option for first-timers, offering an encompassing insight into what executive chef Gary Jones can and does do on a daily basis. The bread of course was beautifullymade on site, complementing our first two courses of spiced velouté of cauliflower with roasted scallop, and duck liver, quince and gingerbread’. The butternut squash agnolotti with wild mushrooms that followed was both delicate and boisterous, but the star of the show for me was the wild Cornish brill with native oyster, Oscietra caviar, cucumber and wasabi beurre blanc. It is a dish that improves and exceeds with every mouthful and at this point my friend and I were wondering what could possibly follow. In fact, the assiette of Oxfordshire lamb, quinoa, onion and garlic purée kept us at the same level and the Ardrahan cheese, apricot and vanilla chutney that concluded our savoury choices only compounded our school-boyesque delight.

and its political views. This almost OCDness is, I suppose, how the greats become great. All we can do is judge, or more so revel in, the end product.

Raymond tells me he is not quite there yet with Le Manoir, as he kisses another member of staff in the French way (no, not that way… you know what I mean), but it’s the best I’ve come across and it’s hard to imagine there is something out there that supersedes it. suite was perfection, it really was. It’s the little things that make the biggest statements and within the walls of that first-floor enclave the attention to detail leaves no cliché unturned. The grounds too are immaculate, lending extra gravitas to the stay and providing an outer sanctum to the inner beauty of the mellow stone manor house. Sharing an oyster with Monsieur Blanc after breakfast the next morning, he talks continually about ‘striving for excellence’, and both encouraging and expecting his formidable team of staff to share those same ideals. You see Raymond lives by his own ‘bible’, a comprehensive reference book he has built up over two decades listing all the produce he uses, where it is sourced from, who it’s sourced by, its production process, what it has for dinner

Pies and pints have their place and we can enjoy them every day, but if you can afford it – and there’s no doubt you need deep pockets – Le Manoir should really be on your bucket list. Swimming with dolphins, scaling the Matterhorn or going toe-to-toe with Jenson Button are all very well. A stay at Raymond Blanc’s tops the lot. But, like the surfer in a quest for the ultimate wave, where next when he finds it?

Church Road Great Milton Oxford OX44 7PD 01844 278881 www.manoir.com

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Sommelier’s Match MENU DÉCOUVERTE

Viognier 2009, Cambria Tepusque t, Santa Maria Valley, California VELOUTÉ DE CHOU-FLEUR, NOIX DE ST-JACQUES Gruner Veltliner Renner 2010, Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, Aust ria FOIE DE CANARD, COING ET PAIN D’ÉPICES AGNOLOTTI DE COURGE MUSQUÉE , CHAMPIGNONS SAUVAGES Chassagne Montrachet Les Mazu res 2008, Domaine Jean-Noël, Gagnard, Burg undy FILET DE BARBUE, HUÎTRE, CAVI AR D’OSCIÈTRE, CONCOMBRE, WASABI BEURRE BLANC Côte-Rôtie La Germine 2006, Domaine Duclaux, Northern Rhon e ASSIETTE D’AGNEAU, QUINOA, PURÉ E D’OIGNON

ET D’AIL

Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Classico 2008 FROMAGE ARDRAHAN, CHUTNEY D’ABRICOT ET VANILLE Maculan Torcolato 2007, Breganze , Veneto, Italy RAVIOLE DE FRUITS EXOTIQUES, JUS DE NOIX DE COCO ET FEUILLE DE KAFFIR AMANDINE DE POIRE WILLIAMS , CROUSTILLANT CARAMEL, SAUC E AU GINGEMBRE SAVEURS DE TIRAMISU ET CRÈM E AU CŒUR DE GUANAJA

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Recipe

Romance FOR

C L I V E D E N

THE PAVILION SPA

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> flavour on the grapevine

A food writer and wine consultant, Zeren Wilson will leave no stone unturned in his quest to find the hidden gems of London’s food scene and bring it to you on a plate. Check out Zeren’s restaurant review site for a taste of what he has to offer: www.bittenandwritten.com

BASQUE BEEF Crimson flesh. Sweet and buttery fat. This is the Basque cult of Txuletón beef, served in the finest cider houses and top restaurants in San Sebastián such as Etxebarri. Brindisa have just begun importing this remarkable beef from Imanol Jaca, and are serving the rib-eye steak at Tapas Brindisa and Casa Brindisa. The meat from these fine beasts is from animals that have been romping on the Galician hills for up to 12 years, developing intense marbling and the most exquisite-tasting fat that demands as much attention as the meat. It ain’t cheap, but neither should it be. A beef epiphany…

CAVIAR AT HIX HIX Champagne bar at Selfridges is now a haven for worshippers of caviar, but in an ethical and more acceptable fashion. Mottra Caviar is stating its case as the only sustainable caviar in the world, as the fish are kept alive, unlike regular caviar production, and ‘milked’ for their eggs by human massage. The sturgeon fish are farmed in clean and pure waters near Riga in Latvia, and packed at the farm. Now you can Photo by Jason Lowe pick up your Jimmy Choo bag downstairs, and then enjoy caviar with scrambled duck egg, linguine and crème fraîche, or a jellied Maldon rock oyster – zero guilt attached.

An olive tree is not just for Christmas. Nudo is a collective of small scale, artisan olive groves in Italy, and you’re given the chance to ‘adopt’ your own tree. How sweet! You’ll get the fruits from your own tree along with its neighbours three times a year, in rather snazzy, colourful little tins. We got to try a selection at the brilliant Saltoun Supper Club in Brixton, including their lemon, basil and chilli oils. Sniff them out in Selfridges. Tree huggers with discerning taste. www.nudo-italia.com

Another ‘Provençal’-based menu in London may seem like overkill, particularly with Aurelia next door plying a similar schtick, but Joël Antunès has proper pedigree. Arriving in London last year in the anodyne and depressing Park Plaza hotel, his food now has the la-de-da setting it deserves, among the air-kissing denizens of Mayfair. A dazzlingly white room feels like über posh Milano. Nibble on black olive tapenade and a quite brilliant sardine Niçoise on a wickedly crumbly Parmesan crust as you survey a black Amex-toting crowd. Oxtail tortellini with impeccably made pasta is a highlight to revel in, as is a sparklingly fresh sea bream studded with lemon and fennel. Oh Joël, so good to see you dahhling! www.embassymayfair.com

THE DELAUNAY

www.brindisa.com/restaurants

NUDO

KITCHEN JOËL ANTUNÈS

Photo by Jason Lowe

www.hixatselfridges.co.uk

The paint is yet to dry on the new Chris Corbin and Jeremy King venture, owners of The Wolseley, but this already feels like an opening of some significance. An all-day venture inspired by the grand cafés of Vienna, Budapest and Zurich, a stunning David Collins studio-designed room plays host to perfectly executed food and stunning service. Indulge in classics of chicken Kiev, tarte flambée, eggs Benedict and steak tartare, in a room that makes you feel like a proper grown-up – chic and civilised. www.thedelaunay.com

www.bittenandwritten.com Follow Zeren on Twitter: @bittenwritten 57

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25/01/2012 19:23

> flavour the hansom cab

the hansom cab A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com

ome pubs fall neatly into the ‘hidden gem’ category. Tucked away down a side street, or not given to publicity and promotion, or even just doing the simple things well but not doing anything ‘unusual’ to get it reviewed or featured by publications such as this. But others go to the opposite end of the ‘fame’ scale and one such is The Hansom Cab in Kensington, which may very well have had more print and ‘social media’ publicity in the last 12 months than any hostelry in our nation’s capital. The reason is that, in late 2010, The Hansom Cab was taken over by Piers Morgan and his brother Rupert. Actually, that’s the wrong way around. Rupert definitely seems to be the more active partner in the venture, and it is he you are likely to encounter behind the bar.

The Hansom Cab 84-86 Earls Court Road Kensington London W8 6EG 0207 938 3700 www.thehansomcab.com

Piers is a former newspaper editor, Britain’s Got Talent judge and, since the beginning of 2011, host of his own ratings smash Piers Morgan Tonight on CNN. Although this last role means he spends a lot of time in the United States, he is nonetheless an enthusiastic promoter of The Hansom Cab to his 1.7 million followers on Twitter.

As if the blaze of Morgan-related publicity isn’t enough, The Hansom Cab has upped its game by becoming a Marco Pierre White Grill Room & Oyster Bar featuring menus created by the Leeds uberchef himself. Add to this a clientele that frequently includes a veritable who’s who of sporting and television celebrity, and you have a pub and restaurant that doesn’t just ‘not hide its light under a bushel’, it throws the bushel to one side and waves its light around in front of London saying “Look at me look at me!” Situated on the Earl’s Court Road, not far from the Exhibition Centre and about halfway between the A4 Cromwell Road and Kensington High Street, this is a Victorian street corner pub that was originally two bars. If you go back far enough (Piers and Rupert are too young to remember) this used to be the Pembroke Arms, and for years it was a downmarket old gents’ boozer. Now, from the coat of arms stencilled into the windows, and the immaculate Lily Langtry-style mural on the outside, you know you are approaching a much more salubrious venue than in years gone by.

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> flavour the hansom cab

Raise a glass to... J W Lees The Governor (3.8%) Brewed in Manchester and named after Marco Pierre White’s family greyhound, this is an all-malt session beer. It’s got an amber blown-glass colour to it and a citrus-fruit zest to the nose. It’s surprisingly dry for such a low ABV beer, which makes it dangerously moreish.

As you enter, your eye is drawn first to the solid marble bar top, but then to the immaculately laid out tables set for dining (or lunch as it was on my visit). Around this main (front) section, there are lots of ornate sculptures, mostly of animals but also including – unless my eyes deceived me – a Michelin man. There is a pawn shop sign hanging by one window, and on the walls a series of cartoons by JAK, the Evening Standard’s cartoonist for 45 years until his death in 1997.

very adeptly. If you are planning to sit down to eat, then booking is advisable, especially in the evening.

Through to the right is the ‘back bar’. More dining tables and a further marble top bar are complemented by a fireplace – inlaid above which sits a beautiful old photograph of a string of hansom cabs waiting to whisk revellers of bygone days back to their townhouses and mews.

To drink, there is an extensive and varied wine list but, as every culinary philistine knows, nothing washes down fried fillet of cod better than a decent pint of beer. There can be as many as four or five real ales available, though on my visit was J W Lees’ ‘The Governor’, brewed especially for Marco Pierre White, and Harvey’s Sussex Best Bitter.

At lunchtime there is a real sense of understated gentility about the place. Staff in open-collared, cuff-linked shirts wait on diners, and there might be music from Frank Sinatra or Dean Martin wafting across the bar. The evenings are far livelier and less formal. Though there is no doubt that Marco Pierre-White’s menu and the quality of the food will appeal to a foodie clientele, Rupert Morgan manages to tread the fine line between pub and restaurant

Harvey’s Sussex Best Bitter (4%) Brewed in Lewes in East Sussex, this is another dry-tasting beer, but it’s much more substantial to the taste. More hoppy than The Governor, it has the colour of a traditional best bitter, darker and more brown than amber. The balance between the malt and hops seems well-maintained.

The food is rich and varied, offering everything from real pork scratchings with apple and mustard sauce (from the bar snacks menu), through to a Carpaccio of yellow fin tuna as a starter, followed by grilled poussin a la chipolatas. On my visit I had Cod and Chips, simple but as succulent as you could wish for.

Rupert Morgan and team have managed to create a genuinely relaxed and welcoming pub allying great attention to detail, a cool elegance, a top notch menu, great beer and, just occasionally, a nice smattering of celebrities. Hidden, maybe not, but a gem, definitely. ■

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> flavour sketch

n the breathless climate of London restaurant openings there’s a perfect beacon of madness still shining on Mayfair’s Conduit Street. Looking and feeling like the hallucinogenic dream of the Mad Hatter, sketch is decked out like a fervid illustration of the word ‘bonkers’. The perfect antidote to a London submerged beneath waves of pop-ups, supper clubs, and temporary restaurants, Pierre Gagnaire’s temple to haute cuisine is housed in a surreal funfair of a Grade II listed building, costing 12m to renovate. Opened in 2002 with restaurateur Mourad Mazouz, there was wide-eyed disbelief and awe at the sky-high prices. That it still stands today, amidst economic upheaval and a seismic shift in trends on the dining scene, is admirable. Food as artistry, chef as poet, dining as theatre – welcome to planet sketch. For mere mortals, the Gourmet Rapide menu in the Lecture Room at £30 is the only one to contemplate. Veering off this course will involve being embroiled in orchestral à la carte dishes where you’ll be dropping £35-£55 a course. Oligarchs apply within. The first flurry of dishes that come out confuse and dazzle in equal measure,

looking for all the world as if the petit fours have been promoted to the start of the meal, miniature macaroon-like creations that play on sweet flavours more than savoury. The starter proper is a combination of four dishes, kicking off with a deeply earthy Jerusalem artichoke consommé, tricked out with a chestnut purée flavoured with rum, and a tamarillo sorbet with gingerbread – that sweet and savoury combination again. Scallop mousse plays an interesting game with Thai grapefruit and some ginger – zingy and zesty, a great palate wakener. A wild hare terrine is given a backdrop of red cabbage and an intense blob of blackcurrant marmalade, the best combination yet. A silken puck of foie gras is perked up with pickled cherries and chocolate. A beautifully cooked piece of salmon fillet brings the meal back to a more conservative flavour spectrum, carefully balanced with sorrel cream, pearl barley, grilled baby leeks, and onions pickled in Guinness – clever cooking. Then the sweet stuff makes a return with a Sauternes bouillon and semi-dried grapes in a dish of corn-fed chicken, given an umami kick with the smart addition of white miso paste.

sketch

sketch’s wine list deserves mention for its obsessive Champagne offering, a smattering of quality small growers alongside the usual big dogs, and for the well-written tasting notes guided by the hand of seasoned head sommelier Fred Brugues. The Gourmet Rapide we chose doesn’t include dessert proper, but does include coffee and a selection of tricksy petit fours, which give more than a little sense of déjà vu of the opening salvo of morsels coming from the kitchen. We walk out the room past the silver statue of a woman with an afro made of syringes, and do a double-take of the faceless dog hanging off the wall outside – Alice wouldn’t have blinked an eye. It may be bonkers but it’s one hell of a ride.

sketch

9 Conduit Sreet London W1S 2XG 0207 659 4500 www.sketch.uk.com

Alice in Wonderland in Mayfair? Zeren Wilson steps into the looking glass...

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Food as artistry, chef as poet, dining as theatre â&#x20AC;&#x201C; welcome to planet sketch

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25/01/2012 19:52

> flavour waterloo

waterloo BY BEN NORUM

Waterloo is no shrinking violet. Acting as London’s gateway to the Southbank, the namesake station is the busiest in the UK boasting over 1,500 trains in and out daily.

t’s also the local stop for the country’s most popular tourist attraction, helping three million a year onto the London Eye. What far too few of the area’s visitors realise is that Waterloo is also fast becoming a foodie hub for the capital. A hub for those who find Borough too busy and the centre too chaotic, it’s a place solely for those in the know.

Lower Marsh Tap out and turn right as you leave Waterloo tube station to find Lower Marsh, an ancient market street that overflows with charm and character. Head here on a weekday and you’ll find the narrow road lined with food-to-go stalls and an occasional veg seller. If you’ve shopping to do, you’ll have to avoid being lured into brightly coloured Cubana (www.cubana.co.uk), which sits on the street’s corner. This modest Cuban restaurant churns out plate after plate of delicious and underpriced delights. They make their money instead on the mojitos and other suppable cocktails that whizz off the bar of an evening. Catch their happy hour from 5-6.30pm and join the party. One of the first stalls you’ll see as you head down Lower Marsh is Buen Provecho, hailed as one of the best places to eat Mexican in London. Try owner Arturo Ortega Rodriguez‘s legendary pork pibli tacos or indulge in a toasty cheese quesadilla. Just make sure you add a

ER’S INSID MET GOUR DE GUI

dollop of roasted tomato and chipotle salsa – it will make your tongue sing. As you continue down the street, you’ll find a changing selection of stalls offering everything from curries to crepes, falafels to fish. Look out on the left for Greensmiths Deli (www.greensmithsfood. co.uk), which houses just about any gourmet ingredient you could wish for. Included within is a Ginger Pig concession selling all manner of own-reared meats alongside hearty snacks in the form of scotch eggs, game pie and some quite unbeatable pork and stilton sausage rolls. There’s also a Waterloo Wine Co mini shop inside to help with some local drinking, not that the wines are actually made in the area, unfortunately! Want somewhere to go and eat that sausage roll? Head down a little further until you get to ScooterCaffe, a gem of a place that’s loved by all who enter. There’s no name on the front but look out for a big red sign saying ‘bar’, and a scooter or two in the window. The premises used to be a scooter repair shop, but turned into a cafe after word spread of the excellent coffees they were serving to waiting customers. Italian vintage coffee machines are the secret here, while chatty staff, eclectic furnishings, board games, a cosy basement and some resident cats all help make it as brilliant as it is. There’s no food bar although an occasional cake is on offer, but you’re welcome to bring your

own – which is where that sausage roll comes in. They’ll happily whip you up a cocktail or two, as well…

Southbank Drop down the steps by Waterloo Bridge and you’ll find yourself at the heart of the Southbank. Visit here on the weekend to find the Real Food Festival Market (www.realfoodfestival.co.uk) on Belvedere Road in the square behind Royal Festival Hall. Chef demos, tastings and specially themed stalls abound, alongside regular favourites such as Woodwards Farm selling raw beef as well as their signature burgers. A lot of the restaurants on the river can be quite tourist focused, but Canteen (www.canteen.co.uk) near to the market is hard to beat for seasonal, British food at a decent price. And their breakfasts are enough to cure any hangover. Trust us. If you’re feeling fancy, head into Skylon (www.skylon-restaurant.co.uk) in the Southbank Centre for a meal that will leave a lasting impression but a potential dent in your wallet, or to the nearby Westminster Bridge Park Plaza Hotel to sample the finesse of Joël Antunes’ cooking at Brasserie Joël (www.brasseriejoel.co.uk). If it’s not quite such a special occasion, head back a street or two to uncover some much more moderately-priced secrets.

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> flavour waterloo

Brasserie Joël

Greensmiths Deli

The White Hart on Cornwall Road (www.thewhitehartwaterloo.co.uk) might be more Royal Oak than The Ivy, but its proximity to the National Theatre, The Old Vic and ITV’s studios means it draws in all the stars. There’s an A-list wine selection, loads of ciders, and (this must be what attracts the celebs) wasabi nuts to nibble on. A hearty pub menu of seasonal dishes is also a good bet. Alternatively, head round the corner to The King’s Arms on Roupell Street where you’ll find a stunningly good Thai curry for a fiver at the back of an otherwise traditional old boozer. While in the area, you may want to call in at Konditor & Cook, too. The expertlymade, gooey in the centre, massive fruit meringues which adorn the window say more than any words can, but in short it’s essential for anyone with a sweet tooth.

The Cut Heading east from the station, you’ll find yourself on The Cut, home of The Old & Young Vic theatres, and met at the end by Southwark tube. The Anchor & Hope is the must-visit destination here, having previously been crowned London’s best

ScooterCaffe

Sunday lunch. It’s founders come via St. John and the place that coined the word ‘gastropub’, The Eagle, so it has a good pedigree. Popularity can be a problem if you don’t get a seat, so it’s good to know that for one session only at 2pm on a Sunday they’ll take bookings. Nearby you’ll find Culture Grub (www.culturegrub.co.uk), a Chinese noodle bar and restaurant which receives rave reviews for its authenticity, though you may have to put up with service that’s far from the friendliest. It’s worth it. Across the road is Meson Don Felipe (www.mesondonfelipe.com), a tapas bar that comes complete with live guitar strumming, regular flamenco and jugloads of sangria. The service is friendly here, too. Cocktails, dumplings and borscht are available at Baltic round the corner on Blackfriars Road, creating an impressive multicultural triangle. Slide down the side streets towards Waterloo East station to find a romantic oasis of cafes flanked by flowers and floral adornments under the arches on Isabella street. Feast on mezze at Ev Restaurant (www.tastrestaurants.com)

A hub for those who find Borough too busy and find the ingredients in their deli next door if you feel so inclined to recreate your dishes at home. Alternatively, just pop next door to Jack’s Bar & Cocktail School (www.jackscs.co.uk) for a cocktail or three. Best thing about Waterloo? If you get carried away, you’re never short of a night bus home.

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A SWEDISH CHAMPION THE ASSISTENT ORIGINAL INCLUDES A 7-LITRE STAINLESS STEEL BOWL, LID, DOUGH ROLLER, DOUGH KNIFE, SPATULA, DOUGH HOOK AND A DOUBLE WHISK WITH A 3.5-LITRE PLASTIC BOWL. The exceptionally powerful motor, which comes with a five-year guarantee, has stepless speed control, timer, and a unique gearing located underneath the bowl that makes the machine extra strong and robust. The Assistent Original can knead up to five kilos of dough at a time. This machine will make every cook’s life easier for both professional and home cooking.

AVAILABLE FROM PURE COOKSHOP

www.purecookshop.co.uk Enquiries to sales@purecookshop.co.uk

in the heart of Bath Make the most of Bath’s natural thermal waters and experience a one-day spa package that spans 2000 years. The special package costs £63.50 per person and includes: A ticket to the Roman Baths A voucher for a 3 course set lunch or Champagne afternoon tea in the Pump Room A voucher for a 2-hour spa session at Thermae Bath Spa

www.RomanticBaths.co.uk

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26/01/2012 00:16

> flavour flipping marvellous

flipping marvellous BY MEGAN OWEN

s we gladly wave goodbye to January, the depressing month of resolution breaking, penniless pockets and colder weather, we leap into the month of love, red roses and pancakes – the only cake (after an over-indulgent festive season) that many of us would wish to resemble – thin and flat. Symbolising the first day of the fasting season referred to as Lent, Pancake Day, otherwise known as Shrove Tuesday, is historically the day when Christian families empty their cupboards and fridges of over-indulgent ingredients. For 40 days after Shrove Tuesday, in the lead up to Easter (Ash Wednesday to Good Friday), Christians replicate the sacrifice that Jesus Christ made when he went into the desert, by engaging in prayer and cleansing, and by abstaining from eating foods such as fat, sugar and eggs, in addition to meat and fish. Nowadays, Lent, although still seen by many as a religious season of reflection and self-deprivation, tends to involve people torturing themselves for a tedious 40 days as they try hard to surrender

favourite foods or habits from their lives, such as chocolate, cigarettes, or crisps. This approach is coupled with a more commercial and casual stance on Shrove Tuesday, with supermarkets placing lemon juice, golden syrup, and easy-tomake pancake batter in prime locations on their shelves (which ironically also encourages people to take the ingredients into their home, rather than using them up). While some people may disagree with the shift that has occurred over time, as a pancake lover myself, I enjoy and join the push for the tasty batter-based product. For many, Pancake Day, which this year falls on Tuesday 21st February, will be the only day of the year when the standard ingredients of flour, eggs and milk are whisked into a creamy batter and poured into a hot pan. Throughout the UK, houses will be filled with over-excited children and competitive parents, as families engage in pancake tossing challenges and eating contests. At the end of the day, many will feel overindulged and probably very understanding

of why the day is also referred to as ‘Fat Tuesday’. But, what I want to know is why are pancakes not enjoyed more often? As a versatile and simple food product, pancakes are not just beautiful when they are married with lemon and sugar. Easily suited to a range of flavours and ingredients, from cheese and red onion to Mexican five bean chilli, they can also be the perfect alternative to bread or pastry in a main meal. So why don’t you experiment? Next time you fancy fajitas, a pie or even pizza for dinner, try folding or rolling your preferred fillings or toppings into a pancake instead. You could also try adding fresh herbs to the batter to enhance the flavour of your meal. Be daring, and try new things – if you don’t invent a new favourite for the nation, you may find one for your family. So, enjoy Pancake Day and good luck for Lent. I hope after experimenting you will join me in cheering for pancakes all year round, as I think they’re flipping marvellous, and so should you!

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> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Ben Purton Originally from: South East London Executive chef at: One Twenty One Two – The Royal Horseguards

I actually fell into this great industry by accident. At school I wanted to be a policeman until I attended two weeks’ work experience at Hendon training centre and realised that this was not the career for me. I went to a local hotel and said I needed a job and would pretty much do anything – they needed a kitchen porter for that weekend and that was my entrance into a kitchen – The Woodford Moat House hotel with a chef called Dean Ginn. I worked there for about three months at weekends before one evening a commis had made one too many mistakes and was kindly asked to leave the kitchen – in kitchen speak – and I was asked if I would like to cook…. I started the following week and have never done, or could ever see myself doing, anything else. The Royal Horseguards Hotel is an iconic building that has been dominating this area along the Thames for over 100 years. It is steeped in history and is at the centre of London’s theatreland and right next to the South Bank and the London Eye. I love a challenge and when I came to the hotel, firstly for my interview and then for my cook-off, I knew from the first second that I could make this place better than anyone else – It really does have the opportunity to be the best five-star deluxe luxury hotel within its set.

2 Whitehall Court London SW1A 2EJ 0207 451 9333 www.guoman.com/theroyalhorseguards

Being a chef is all about keeping up with trends and setting new ones – it’s what we do and you never stop learning new dishes, new techniques and new combinations. I read all the foodie mags to see what is happening around London and the UK – I get out when I can to try for myself and I try to keep a good network of chefs within the industry so that you hear what may be coming out next before anyone else does. I am also not afraid to be given advice (don’t always listen!), so we try out new things all the time on either work colleagues or family and, believe me, they all have an opinion…

My style of food adapts to my surroundings and at The Royal Horseguards Hotel it’s a mix of modern British in One Twenty One Two restaurant – comfort food in room service – delicate and sophisticated food in the lounge and basically a bit of everything in banqueting. You have to adapt to each and every guest so to be stuck with one food style would not work for you in this environment. I want the best at all times and am driven to making my operation and team better each and every day. I expect commitment from all who want to be part of my team and I want everything to be perfect each and every day, but, and there is a but, I have to enjoy my work. I spend more time at work than I do at home which is the toughest part of our industry – so I put a smile on my face, a spring in my step and encourage everyone to do the same. I love all food and this changes with the places where you are working and the times of year. I love a rack and chump of lamb, can’t beat a rib-eye steak, sea bass is a favourite especially with grilled courgette and a raspberry thyme butter… yes really… try it. Oh and I’m also a sucker for salty Parma ham filled with rocket, oven roasted tomatoes and Parmesan and drizzled with a balsamic reduction. I could go on… The food industry will continue to grow and develop and I do not see it ever declining – everyone has to eat and everyone would love someone else to cook for him or her so we are in a pretty good place. Diners are looking for more and more value within the market and everyone has to adapt to keep themselves relevant and we are no different. We have something for everyone from value lunch offers to the best afternoon tea that I have worked with – just pop in and see for yourselves! I think the London food scene will continue to be as big and diverse as ever which is why it is now the respected place to work, eat and play. 67

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Going against the grain

Basmati THE MAHARAJAH’S CHOICE

Intrepid surveyor of world cuisine Louis Labron-Johnson steps up to the plate and heads to New Dehli, where some of the world’s best chefs work their magic with the celebrated basmati rice…

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25/01/2012 20:34

> flavour going against the grain

LAMB BIRYANI

‘THE FRAGRANT ONE’ Across the vast, unwieldy beast that is the sub-continent of India, rice is the staple diet of every inhabitant. From Moghul emperors to outcaste tribes, for millennia Indians have partaken of the many thousands of varieties of rice grown on hillside paddies and steppes. Of all these rice families, the undisputed queen is basmati, a strain of long grain rice renowned for its fragrance and delicate, nuanced flavour. basmati is cultivated exclusively in the Punjab region, irrigated by the Sutluj River which runs through the foothills of the Himalayas. Although the vast majority of basmati is consumed in India, worldwide demand is growing fast, not least in the UK, where basmati now accounts for over half of all rice sold. Seen more and more as a vital cooking ingredient in our kitchens, part of the popularity of basmati is down to its flexibility: the rice can be successfully used in almost every type of cuisine, from Mexican chillis to Italian risottos to Spanish paellas, even Japanese sushi can be created using the basmati strain.

BASMATI FOR THE WORLD To celebrate the diversity of basmati, APEDA – the agricultural developmental authority of India – annually hosts the basmati For The World Exposition in New Dehli, the colourful, ramshackle Indian capital. Distinguished chefs from all over

Seen more and more as a vital cooking ingredient in our kitchens, part of the popularity of basmati is down to its flexibility: The rice can be successfully used in almost every type of cuisine. the world are invited to take part in a twoday cooking event, showcasing fantastic dishes from their country of origin. The only stipulation is that said dishes are in some way made using basmati. This year, over 30 top chefs from the UK, France, Italy, Spain, Mexico and the USA created a number of basmatirelated recipes, and the results were both innovative and delicious. Lionel Levy of France made excellent rice ball fritters, while US chef David Felton’s succulent and aromatic butter-poached Maine lobster with basmati rice and Thai curry sauce became a personal favourite. The second day of the event was dedicated to Indian cuisine, and headlined by top chef Shilpi Gupta, who is to India what Gordon Ramsey is to us – minus the profanity. The dishes were by-and-large outstanding, and a far shout from the tikka masala that we are perhaps more familiar with in the UK. Curry is a British-coined word that has no equivalent in Indian, and represents a breed of dish indigenous to the UK, specifically Birmingham, where Korma et al originated in the Seventies. Indian cuisine is much more varied, mostly vegetarian, and fiercely regional. One of the most superb dishes was Shilpi’s own lamb biryani, a melt-in-the-mouth experience perfectly balanced with fluffy saffron rice. Shilpi was kind enough to share the recipe – taken from a man regarded by many to be the finest chef on the sub-continent, it’s certainly one well worth adding to your repertoire. The versatility of basmati is matched only by its unique flavour, and makes this particular rice a must-have for any store cupboard.

Serves 10 Ingredients 1kg basmati rice 800g boneless lamb chop/shank 100g ghee or butter 1.25l beaten curd/yoghurt 6 cardomom pods 4 cloves 4 bay leaves 1 tsp caraway seeds 1 tsp yellow chilli powder 1 tsp red chilli powder 50ml cooking oil 3 onions 20g ginger 0.5g saffron Method 1 Wash and soak rice for 30 min. Place lamb in heavy-bottomed pan with all powdered and whole spices. Add curd and oil, mix, and cook for 20 minutes. 2 Boil 1.25l water, add Basmati rice, salt and whole spices, and cook until rice is ¹⁄³ done. Strain rice. 3 Arrange lamb, marinade and rice over each other in layers. Add ghee, saffron and onions on top, seal lid of pot, and place in oven at 150°C for 30 mins. 4 Serve in an open dish.

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25/01/2012 20:34

Here’s the ca ch

How to... cook fish on a budget

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice... So winter, recession, time to tighten your belts in more ways than one? But if cooking with a budget in mind means heading straight for the lentils and tins of beans, think again. One thing is for sure; most people tend not to think of fish as food to cook on the cheap, unless it comes in frozen finger form. But there really are some great ways to include terrific fish that won’t break the bank and make a pretty impressive supper in the process. Some of my absolute favourites are the least expensive dishes and probably top of the list is seafood spaghetti. Spaghetti, fresh tomatoes, olive oil, mussels, clams and whatever else takes your fancy from the fish counter thrown in, piled high and unceremoniously plonked in the middle of

the table for a group of friends to share – sumptuous. Most of our fish at RockFish is caught down in Brixham in Devon and then transported up overnight to be on the counter the next day hence our saying that our fish is so fresh “tomorrow’s is still in the sea!” While some fish is at a premium and a higher price, such as turbot and lobster, there are plenty of species caught in the South Coast waters that make a fantastic and cheap supper. Bang in season is the humble mussel and at this time of year it’s hard to beat a piece of really good smoked haddock. Here are two great recipes for around a fiver – not bad for some top-quality seafood.

I’m always telling people to come in and chat to us. Our fishmongers are chefs and they have loads of ideas about what is good, what works with what and some new simple ideas to try. We can help you with what is on the counter and is best for the budget on any particular day!

Hope to see you soon.

Recipe taken from The AGA Seafood Cookbook by Mitch Tonks published by Absolute Press. 70

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> flavour mitch tonks

SWEET AND SOUR CHILLI MUSSELS It’s hard to beat moules marinère but this is one of those dishes that everyone wants to know how to cook after they’ve tried it. Serves 2 Ingredients 1kg live mussels 1 onion, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 1 tbsp chopped, fresh ginger 4 red chillies, finely sliced 150ml white wine vinegar 6 tbsp sugar Splash of fish sauce Juice of 1 lime A handful of coriander, finely chopped A small handful of chopped basil

Method Clean the mussels and then steam them open in a pan with a little water. Discard any that don’t open. In a frying pan, gently soften the onions, garlic, ginger and chillies. Add the vinegar and sugar and stir well to dissolve. Taste to get that sweet and sour balance that you like and then season with a few drops of fish sauce. Simmer for 2-3 minutes. Tip the mussels and their juices into the frying pan and stir well to create a sticky coating over the mussels. Squeeze in the lime juice and add the herbs. Serve hot or chilled.

CULLEN SKINK Well its name just gets everyone talking, a traditional warming and filling soup – don’t bank on leftovers. Serves 3-4 Ingredients 450g good quality undyed smoked haddock 1 medium onion, finely chopped Small handful of chopped parsley leaves (reserve the stalks) 750ml full cream milk 200g creamy mashed potato 50g butter Bay leaf Salt and plenty of black pepper

Method Put the milk in a pan large enough to take the haddock. Add the bay leaf and parsley stalks and simmer for 4 minutes then leave to infuse for a further 5 minutes. When cool enough remove the haddock, reserving the liquid, and break up into flakes and remove any skin and bone. Melt the butter in another pan and cook the onions until soft but not browned. Add the strained poaching liquid and then stir in enough mashed potato until you have a thickened, creamy consistency. Add the parsley and the haddock and simmer for a further 3-4 minutes. Season with plenty of black pepper and salt if needed and serve with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

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25/01/2012 20:33

the rioja renegades

For many people taking their first sips of serious wine, red Rioja is often the style that turns them from casual wine drinkers into budding enthusiasts. Maybe it is the strawberry fruit that does it, perhaps the smooth and creamy vanilla flavours or even the word ‘Reserva’ emblazoned across the label...

hatever it is, Spain’s most famous wine region retained a distinctive and popular identity for 100 years – until a quiet revolution began bubbling under the surface and a small group of groundbreaking winemakers decided to redefine the image of Rioja wine. The story of Rioja wine begins during the mid-1800s, when a Colonel in the Spanish army by the name of Murrieta was exiled to London, where he witnessed the insatiable English demand for wines from Bordeaux. To discover the secret of their success, Murrieta relocated to learn winemaking in Bordeaux before heading back to Northern Spain to put his newfound knowledge to good use. Before long, Murrieta had revolutionised the Rioja wine scene, introducing oak barrels to mature the wines (although his came from America, not France) and other techniques to imitate the fine wines of Bordeaux. Marques de Murrieta became one of the flagship brands of Rioja, joined by other great names like Muga, Lopez de Heredia, Marques de Riscal and La Rioja Alta. These ‘classic’ or ‘traditional’ Rioja wines enjoyed such considerable success that by the late 20th

century they had been joined on the scene by myriad imitators, making cheap and inferior wines that still carried the region’s famous name and designations like ‘Crianza’, ‘Reserva’ and ‘Gran Reserva’. The perceived deterioration in quality led to a small band of winemakers breaking away from the constraints of Rioja’s traditional approach. Men like Benjamin Romeo, Juan-Carlos Lopez de Lacaille at Artadi and Miguel-Angel de Gregorio at Finca Allende scrapped the overtly oaky American barrels in favour of more subtle French oak and reduced the time their wines spent maturing before they were bottled. They dropped what they saw as ‘lesser’ grape varieties like Garnacha and Mazuelo, focusing solely on Tempranillo and they drastically reduced yields in the vineyard to increase the concentration of their fruit. These ‘modern’ Riojas are different beasts to the dusty, leathery wines you may be used to – they are deep, darkly-fruited, full of power and minerality. Made in tiny quantities, they are not the sort of wines you will find on a supermarket shelf, but every independent wine merchant and quality Spanish restaurant is scrambling to put modern Rioja on their list. ■

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> flavour mark andrew

2007 PREDICADOR; BENJAMIN ROMEO Benjamin Romeo was one of the first to modernise the style of Rioja and his top wine ‘Contador’ is perhaps the region’s most expensive wine. Predicador is a more affordable alternative, but still dense and rich, with presence and complexity far more reminiscent of top Bordeaux than traditional Rioja. Available at www.robersonwine.com (£28.95) and on the wine list at Barrica (W1) and Launceston Place (W8).

1999 RIOJA RESERVA; DECENIO For those of you that love the smokey and oaky traditional style then Decenio is a great example. With more than a decade of bottle age it has taken on leather and tobacco notes to match the strawberries and cream of its youth. Classic, and utterly delicious. Available at www.robersonwine.com (£14.95) and on the wine list at Riding House Café (W1) and Brixton Space Tapas Bar (SW2).

Mark Andrew Mark Andrew is the Senior Wine Buyer at Kensington-based merchant Roberson Wine. In addition to their award-winning shop on London’s Kensington High Street, Roberson supply wine to many of the UK’s top restaurants. When Mark is not travelling Europe seeking out interesting new wines, he runs Roberson’s wine school and fine wine tastings, judges at numerous wine competitions (including the Decanter Magazine World Wine Awards) and is currently studying towards the Master of Wine qualification.

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25/01/2012 20:37

> flavour nick harman

TV chefs reaching saturation point Nick Harman pulls his teeth out as he gets to grips with the TV guide…

f you want to see an example of TV’s food schizophrenia just look at the New Year schedules. There are programmes to help get you into shape, programmes about cooking, the usual cooking programmes and programmes seemingly cooked-up by drunken executives after a good lunch. On the one hand we’re being exhorted to lose that belly and on the other to fill it up as fast as we can. The lose weight camp seems to be increasingly looking at fitness regimes run by sadists, while the cooking camp is looking increasingly desperate for something new. Heston’s back of course. He’s not really a chef so much these days as a kind of Victorian showman and his food is great telly. Unlike normal food it tends to move about, to blow out clouds of smoke and have a back-story that involves more gadgets than James May can shake a whimsical 1950’s stick at.

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.

Baking is going to be big; there’s The Fabulous Baker Brothers (‘Well done Jeremy! Brilliant title! You’ll be Director General yet my boy) presumably an alternative to Baking Made Easy with Lorraine Pascale whose shtick is to talk to the wobbly camera through a rictus grin of barely suppressed laughter and who tweets and social medias like crazy while her dough is rising. It’s so very trending it makes your hair bleed. Baking of course is always cliché comfort though. The smell of fresh cake in the house is supposed to make you forget the lack of funds in your account, until you add up the cost of the ingredients and the energy bills involved. Then

it’s enough to make you take the cake out of the oven and shove your head in instead. James Martin continues to drive the popular Saturday Kitchen, not so much a cookery show as a chat show featuring people you’ve never heard of, all trying to be jolly despite having had to drag themselves out of bed at 4am. Their faces when asked to sample savoury dishes, while desperately trying to keep down the green room croissants they ate earlier, are a joy to behold. To be fair, Martin is down to earth, funny and not full of himself and there’s always something about live telly that keeps you watching. Like with a Grand Prix you’re secretly hoping for a crash. And now there’s a food quiz show. The talent comes in the previously respectable form of Kirsty Wark accompanied by some man in glasses. The contestants seem to be all food bloggers, which is enough to have you scrabbling for the remote control, and Kirsty’s script is all about alliteration and asinine adverbs. You have to wonder if they can find enough questions to last the series but maybe they won’t need to. A programme for afternoon telly at best, it surely can’t survive long at prime time. Food TV is cheap TV; it costs almost nothing to make compared with documentaries and original programming. When it’s Rick Stein it can be fascinating and informative but most of the time it’s just cheap, sliced white bread instead of crusty loaf. It fills a hole but does you no good at all.

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25/01/2012 20:39

Gold Medal Claret only £6.08 per bottle Plus free carving set worth £30.48 Prepare your wine racks for Spring with this top vintage gold medal-winning claret and save more than £65. “This is a magical vintage!” Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate Château Bernot is Averys wine merchants’ best-selling claret and the exceptional 2009 vintage has already won gold in Paris. Fruit-driven with no oak, it is rich and smooth with aromas of crushed raspberries and ripe plums. With opulent, ripe fruit flavours and a fresh finish, it shows all the hallmarks of this exceptional vintage.

Your FREE Carving Set Averys are kindly offering you a carving board and knife and fork set absolutely free (worth £30.48), when you order 12 bottles of Château teau Bernot in the next 7 days. 12 bottle of Château teau Bernot 2009 Bordeaux Rouge

Now only £72.99 (plus £6.99 p&p) (equivalent to £6.08 / bottle)

Plus your free carving board and knife and fork set Save over £65 With limited stocks available, you will need to order now.

Call 0843 224 1224 Quoting R4244

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www.averys.com/r4244

Established in 1793, Averys is one of the UK’s most pioneering wine merchants.“Quality is at the heart of everything we do. As a customer you are guaranteed exceptional wines and service and if at any time you are not satisfied, we will refund or replace your wine without quibble. I look forward to welcoming you to Averys.” John Avery, Master of Wine, Chairman

Averys Wine Merchants, 4 High Street, Nailsea, Bristol BS48 1BT • 08432 241224 • www.averys.com/r4244 TERMS & CONDITIONS: Customers must be over 18 years of age. Goods are offered subject to availability. Prices shown include VAT and are correct at the time of printing but may be subject to change. No other discounts may be taken. Please allow 14 days of order. RRP of Carving board, Knife and Fork set is £30.48. Standard delivery is £6.99 per delivery address and is to UK addresses only (excluding the Channel islands). Offer valid until 30th March 2012.

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25/01/2012 16:47