flavour for people who love local food
South West | Issue 43 | 2011
WIN! reak A luxury b e in th s Cotswold
Party Time!
MICHELIN
Our guide to the guide
We’ll help you plan your festive fun
THE GOOD TABLE
www.flavourmagazine.com
Home cooking from Valentine Warner
Editor: Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com
welcome
Art Director: Richard Cook Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Alastair McClare, Account Manager Email: ali@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Jeni Meade, James Walker Contributors: Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Pieter Swanepoel, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Mitch Tonks, Ron Faulkner, Louis Labron-Johnson, Emily Richards Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com
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For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com
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Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent in by the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.
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contents 10 In Season Tom Bowles and Pieter Swanepoel cook up the best of the season’s produce 30 WIN! A luxury overnight stay in the Cotswolds 31 The Good Table Valentine Warner brings his home cooking to life 35 Party Time Plan your festive fun and games 57 Flavour Drops By Holt has a new find in Seasons
Welcome to the beginning of autumn and the latest edition of flavour! Regular readers will notice that the image before you is not as pretty as the one that has graced this page for the past three years, as former editor Holly has moved on to pastures new. She has left a healthy ship, however, and I hope to continue with the same flair, attention to detail and, most importantly, passion for all things food that she creatively conveyed in these pages. I have been involved with flavour in one way or another since its inception in 2007 and have seen it develop into the wonderful magazine it is today. And what a first issue I’ve inherited! Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir heads up our Back to School feature on page 16, while on page 26 we find out all about the how’s and why’s of the coveted Michelin star – not a bad start! I wouldn’t necessarily say this first issue I’ve put together has always been a pleasure and plain sailing – there have been some pretty hairy moments, especially towards deadline – but it’s never been a chore, and the flourishing nature of the South West’s food corner has made the process a whole lot easier. Anyway, I’ll let you get on and of course flavour welcomes any feedback you have or recommendations of places of interest you’d like to see featured in future issues. Well done!
Nick Nick Gregory
> flavour news
If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
this month SOMETHING TO MUSE OVER Muset by Ronnie is rated number one out of 346 restaurants in Bristol by the online service Trip Advisor. This fantastic restaurant in Clifton is also rated as Britain’s number one restaurant by TopTable, all of which confirms what flavour already knew; that Muset is truly exceptional and offers great food and impeccable service. They are not resting on their laurels, though, and are offering an eye-catching two-course lunch menu for £10 to make it great value as well as top-rated! www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk/muset
i DINING Jump on the i revolution with Michel Roux Jr’s new iphone app; Fine Dining with the Master Chef (£4.99) Michel is calm, unpatronising and an excellent teacher, while his recipes are inspirational. The app includes half-a-dozen video methods for things like potato terrine with smoked bacon salad, and rabbit pie with quince. Recipes are organised into categories such as breads, salads, fish, meat and desserts – everyone should do this. Dishes look beautiful: stuffed saddle of lamb with spinach, garlic and saffron jus; cockle risotto; spicy crab and glass noodle salad. Brilliant…
COMPETITION WINNER Congratulations to Margaret Ducker from Bath who wins a two-night luxury spa break in Dorset
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> flavour news
FUN WITH FIZZ This month, Laurent Perrier will be promoting some of their fabulous champagnes at Lucknam Park culminating in a dinner on the 29th hosted by David Hesketh Managing Director of Laurent Perrier. The evening will begin with a glass of champagne and canapés on arrival followed by a delicious four-course dinner especially created by Executive Chef Hywel Jones and served in the Michelin-starred restaurant The Park. David Hesketh will share his passion and knowledge for wines and introduce a selected champagne with each course. The evening costs £150 per person. Call 01225 742777 to book your table.
BACK TO SCHOOL FOR CHEF A Michelin-starred chef who learned his trade at City of Bath College is to return to the college to cook a mouth-watering gourmet meal. Andre Garrett runs the kitchen at the Galvin at Windows Restaurant on the top floor of the London Hilton, Park Lane and he has created a special South West-themed menu and will work with master chefs of the future to create the special meal on Thursday, September 29. The super chef will be working in the college’s new-look kitchens, which have recently been refitted with some of the best cooking equipment in the business. This gourmet treat costs £25 per person.
www.lucknampark.co.uk
Telephone 01225 312191 for booking
LOCH FYNE
GET YOUR PINNY ON
To celebrate its 21st birthday, and mark the start of the oyster season, Loch Fyne Restaurants asked 21 famous names including the likes of Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood, Michelin- starred chef Michel Roux Jr and Sarah Harding of Girls Aloud fame, how they like to eat their oysters.
The Annual Chutney Competition at Barrington Court, a National Trust gem in Somerset, takes place this year at the end of the month. Anyone wanting to showcase their preserving skills should have their entry at the General Office by Tuesday, September 27 September. The competition will be judged by food writer Vivien Lloyd, and Guy Tulberg, Managing Director of Tracklements. Best of all, the winner gets to visit the Tracklements factory and have their chutney recipe made in the factory.
Responses were extremely varied, with Ronnie Wood preferring them to be “As small as possible, raw and with a squirt of lemon”, while chef Thomasina Miers likes hers served “In a baguette with lashings of chipotle mayo and crispy Cos lettuce, fresh coriander and a squeeze of lime.” How do you like yours? www.lochfyne-restaurants.com
Also at Barrington on October 1 and 2, from 11am to 4.30pm, Chutfest celebrates the great tradition of chutney making. This unique and colourful event, which has gained national appeal, allows you to bring along your homemade chutneys and swap them with other people’s or to set up a stall and sell your wares. There’s also a food fair and chutneymaking tips from the experts. Sounds like a great day out!! www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chutfest
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> flavour news
KINGS ARMS REVISITED LOCAL INSTITUTION Turnbulls in Shaftesbury has spruced itself up. Opened eight years ago, they were the fashion of the time – a market town deli – and a London in the country. They have now gone more specialist and have redesigned the counter to focus on cheese. Turnbulls has become a local institution; everyone knows its deli and café and the new design beautifully sets off their trademark Gorgonzola dolce, their home-cooked hams and the best coffee for miles. If you don’t know Turnbulls, it’s well worth paying a visit. www.turnbulls-deli.co.uk
As it does with so many places here in the West Country, Christmas brings out the best in what we have to offer, and nowhere is that better showcased than at the award-winning Kings Arms in Malmesbury. This 12-bedroomed former coaching inn has had a full refurb and is ready to welcome flavour readers as we head towards the festive season. www.thekahotel.co.uk
BOATHOUSE The Boathouse in Bath reopened in July after a major 16-week refurbishment, transforming the riverside pub into a stylish inn with bedrooms. As part of the development the ground floor has been divided into separate areas – each with a different style and feel – while outside a large raised deck seating area allows customers to make the most of the views of the river Avon. But the biggest transformation has taken place on the first floor with the addition of nine individually-styled guest rooms, many with their own balcony. The kitchen offers a daily changing menu, featuring simple fresh food, with many ingredients sourced locally. It’s well worth a visit. www.boathousebath.com
ZAZU’S KITCHEN Having had great success since opening in October 2009 in Stokes Croft, Toby Bywater’s Zazu’s Kitchen is branching out to offer the locals of Clifton its affordable, locally sourced and freshly prepared food at the end of September. Zazu’s Eating Rooms, in the heart of the community on The Mall, has the advantage of being a ‘bring-your-own’ venue with, we are reliably informed, a ‘low corkage’. The excellent food is value too, with a two-course lunch available for just £9.95 and the dinner £12.50, all cooked to the same standards found at its sister restaurant and café. The seating area in the walled garden is a lovely feature of The Eating Rooms. www.zazuskitchen.co.uk
SOUTH SANDS South Sands is a fantastic, contemporary boutique hotel right on the beach in South Sands Bay, just outside Salcombe and, on October 13, regular contributor Mitch Tonks will host a gourmet evening before embarking on two cookery schools at South Sands in the new year. www.southsands.com
GAME ON As the evenings shorten and barbecue opportunities fade, Molesworths butchers welcomes in the autumn with free-range pork in its many forms, best accompanied with seasonal local apples. For a change, local wild boar from Usk, with its more intense flavour, is also available. Molesworths also specialises in game, with Wiltshire partridge being mild and wonderfully tender in taste. Roast for ten minutes to appreciate the altogether more subtle flavour than next month’s pheasant. Wild duck are also in season. Tender mutton is on the menu for tasty tagines eaten by candlelight! Ask for the diced mutton, which is a good mix of lean shoulder and leg. Start to think about poultry choices for the festive season so you can take advantage of preparing, storing and stocking the seasonal berries and food at their best! Molesworths traditional family butchers is located in Henleaze High Street, Bristol. 01179 621095
> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
fab foodie reads THE GOOD TABLE VALENTINE WARNER Mitchell Beazley, £20
Valentine Warner takes us on an enticing journey to his own home-food heaven and the heart of his home – the good table. Valentine’s new book shows how the food you put on your table for family, friends and yourself is best when it is sourced and cooked with love and care. His recipes tell us about the mood, stories, geography, history and natural history that are the background to the dish. His ingredients are local, mostly inexpensive and easy to find, yet his dishes are often surprising, based on forgotten classics or hailing from distant countries such as Mexico and Morocco. Check out page 31 for some of these magnificent dishes!
PIEMINISTER: A pie for all seasons Tristin Hogg & Jon Simon Bantam Press, £17.99
Everyone loves a pie. Pies are part of our food culture and heritage, as British as ...er... pork pie, and nowadays they are also an essential fashion accessory for the festival-goer as well as the dish of choice at a trendy gastropub near you. pieminister – the creation of Tristan Hogg and Jon Simon – is the undisputed leader of this pie revolution. Now pieminister have produced the book that launched a thousand pies, putting on paper the brilliantly creative and utterly delicious pie recipes which are turning the likes of their Heidi and Moo Pies into household names.
Pick of the Month!
BOOZE FOR FREE ANDY HAMILTON
READY FOR DESSERT DAVID LEBOVITZ
Booze For Free is the definitive guide to home brewing and making the perfect hedgerow tipple. By using his years of experimental brewing and extensive foraging around the UK Andy Hamilton shows you how to make drinks that are weird, wonderful and just plain tasty. His no-nonsense, easy-to-follow guide with over 100 recipes, including great tasting wines made from fruit, vegetables and the hedgerows along with beers made from hops, yarrow, mugwort, elder and other foraged plants, is enough to keep you brewing throughout the year.
Pastry chef and award-winning blogger David Lebovitz is known for creating desserts with bold and high-impact flavours. His acclaimed new book presents show-stopping sweets that bakers of all abilities can master. In Ready for Dessert, David serves up a tantalising array of more than 170 recipes for cakes, cobblers, custards, cookies and more. So if you’re ready for dessert – and who isn’t? – you’ll be happy to have this collection of sweet indulgences on your kitchen shelf.
Eden Project Books, £9.99
Jacqui Small Publishing, £25
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> flavour in season
>Baby Carrots Probably the most popular addition to the shopping trolley second only to good old spud in the fruit and veg department. Whether it’s the sweet taste, the crunch, the attractive glow or merely the plethora of ways to utilise them it is a firm favourite in every basket. Carrots available at this time of year are still young, tender and sweet. Try to pick firm carrots with no wilting or drying skin. Generally the smaller, the more tender. Carrots will keep for a few days in the fridge but try to keep them in the dark and wrapped so they don’t dry out too much.
CARROT REMOULADE (serves 4) Wash and peel 500g of new season carrots. Finely grate the carrot and transfer to a medium bowl. Finely chop 1 onion, 2tsp capers, 3 gherkins and add to the bowl. Mix well and season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Add 75ml olive oil, the juice and zest of two lemons, 2 tbsp chopped chervil and 100ml creme fraiche. Serve with pan fried Halibut and boiled new potatoes.
At their best We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Pieter Swanepoel from Cavendish Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
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>Globe Artichokes The dinner party fact here is that the artichoke is actually a thistle! It is also armoured like one too and takes some tlc as well as time to prepare. The reward for this perseverance is more than enough as its subtle but sublime flavour is a great ingredient to many dishes. They are at their best between June and November although it is hard to find homegrown produce. Some of the best often come from Brittany which is isn't exactly far! Pick tightly packed, crisp green or purple leaved globes that feel weighty for their size. Artichokes are best eaten as soon as possible but will keep for a day or two in the fridge. ARTICHOKE BARIGOULE Finely chop a carrot, leek, 2 sticks celery and 2 large shallots and sweat down in a medium pan. Add 4 crushed garlic cloves, 1 tsp fennel seed, 3 sprigs of thyme and 2 bay leafs. Add 75ml white wine vinegar, 200ml white wine and bring to the boil. Add 200ml olive oil, 5g sea salt and juice of 2 lemons. Keep on a low heat. Trim all the hard leaves from 4 artichokes to reveal the hearts and remove all the fibres. Cut into quarters and rub with lemon. Transfer to the liquid and simmer until soft. Great for salads and fantastic for your Sunday roast.
> flavour in season
>Figs The fruit of these soft, yielding teardrops are actually the thousands of tiny bits within that develop inside (commonly believed to be the seeds). They are steeped in history and are thought to have originated from western Asia and apparently even feature on tomb paintings from around 1,900 BC! Unlike other fruit they tend not to ripen when picked and so are best when they are on the tree, bulging and soft. They may also show a slight fuzzy bloom at their peak. They do not transport well because of this and so are best enjoyed immediately. If you can get hold of them soft and perfectly ripe they are great with salty cured meats and cheeses. They also make for a beautiful addition to jams – a great way to savour the short lived taste! CANDIED FIGS In large saucepan, combine 750g sugar, 500ml water, the zest and juice of 1 lemon and a sprig of rosemary. Bring syrup to a boil and then add 10 figs and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool in the syrup. When figs are cooled, transfer and store in an airtight container. Keep for up to three months in the fridge. Great for roasting or as additions to salads or perfect with cheese.
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>Leeks Leeks are members of the onion family but have a milder and sweeter flavour than white and red onions. The lower white and light green parts are the more flavoursome bits and the dark green tops are usually discarded. Look for firm stalks that feel fairly weighty and are vibrant in colour. They will also store for a couple of days in the fridge but are best eaten fairly quickly. At this time of year leeks are still in their infancy and are great grilled whole. There are many great soup recipes with leeks, but also try chopping them finely and add to a mirapoix of carrot, onion and celery to make a punch base for homemade sauces and stews.
Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside of Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. www.hartley-farm.co.uk
LEEK VELOUTE (serves 2) Heat 25g butter and 75ml olive oil. Add 2 chopped shallots and 2 cloves of chopped garlic, 1 tbsp arborio rice, 2 tbsp fresh thyme. Finely slice 300g of leeks and wash thoroughly, then transfer to the pan. Sweat leeks down by half and add 50ml white wine and reduce by half again. Add 400ml vegetable stock and reduce by half. Add 50ml double cream before blending. Season and serve with freshly ground black pepper and warm crusry bread. (Tip…blend the soup with a hand blender and serve up with a spoon to keep it nice and frothy).
With two AA rosettes. The Cavendish Restaurant and Bar is a hidden gem in the heart of Bath serving the best of modern British cuisine. www.cavendishrestaurant.co.uk
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tasting room If ever there was a street in Bath that lent itself to an independent café and bar with an emphasis on wine – especially of the French variety – it would be Green Street, and appropriately it now has one in the Tasting Room. Established in 2004 in the Bath suburbs by restaurateur Will Baber, the Tasting Room has branched out and, as well as continuing with its in-store wine tastings, it now has a licensed café and restaurant and will host gourmet dinners and open tastings to name but a few extras. Will has taken on Head Chef Gareth Phillips, who has created a Mediterranean menu to cover all three meals in the day and, with dishes ranging from tapas plates to panzanella and from tabouleh to charcuterie, there’s something for everyone. The Tasting Room supplies wine to several prestigious hotels and restaurants including The Royal Crescent, the Priory, Woods and The White Hart, using 65 producers with the majority from France, Italy, Spain, South Africa and New Zealand. And you won’t find Will’s wines with any other retailer, such is his desire to bring exclusivity to his customers. Here the taste buds have
dictated what has been bought, not the price, which makes these individually, tested wines pleasantly affordable. “We have been looking for another premises for three years and have been trying to get this place for the last 18 months,” Will says. “We are delighted to be where we are – it’s perfect for us. “We look to buy wines that please people. They have to fit within our portfolio, which means they have to satisfy our existing customer base and also tie in with the food that we serve. We want people to be able to come in and eat at anytime of the day, no matter what their appetite and we’ll have something on the menu that fits their requirements and all the wines to complement their choices.” The Tasting Room is a wine shop like no other. Peruse the selections of wines, whiskies and cognacs before settling over
a cappuccino and the daily, or sample Gareth’s delights with friends before a short stroll into town. Will is often on hand and more than happy to share his knowledge of wine, but for the complete experience, book in for a tasting or gourmet meal to capture a feel of the real high life.
Everyone is welcome at The Tasting Room. It is understated yet adorned in quality and the mix of café, restaurant and wine merchant works well. A pub, a sausage shop and a butcher’s made Green Street excellent – it’s even better now.
Tasting Room, 6 Green Street, Bath BA1 2JY
01225 483070
www.tastingroom.co.uk
> flavour ask a chef
askachef: Q
I keep trying to make steak and ale pie, but whichever beer I use it always seems to leave a lingering, unpleasant and bitter taste in my mouth, what should I do? Joe Tyler, Bradford-on-Avon
on Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie’s and The Muset by Ronnie. His distinguished career has seen him work in some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe, for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Schooled in classic French techniques, Ron’s modern European cooking style is underpinned with a passion for using the very best seasonal ingredients.
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People are beginning to talk about their Christmas puddings already. I don't want to make one but don't want to be a humbug either so would love to know a festive alternative? Tim Bush, Glastonbury
I know it seems like Christmas is just around the corner. There are plenty of Christmas flavours to make puddings with; cinnamon and nutmeg, candied oranges, prunes and dried fruits, chocolate, cranberries and chestnuts. As an alternative I often use pears poached in mulled wine which can be served simply with cream, however, on last year’s I garnished them with mascarpone panna cotta and freshly-baked waffles… seasonal and delicious.
Q
How much should I spend on a set of kitchen knives? My cheap ones just don't cut the mustard! Tilda Dowden, Bristol A good knife can cost over a hundred pounds, but it does not have to. For many years I used Victorinox, a good knife that did not break the bank to replace, held a good edge and was easy enough to re-hone. These days I use Robert Welsh signature knives. They are ergonomically designed and very comfortable in the hand. If you want to keep the cost down, why not start with a 20-25 cm cook’s knife and paring knife, and build a collection over time? Who knows what Santa might put in your stocking this year!
Adding the ale gives the stew a yeasty, slightly bitter flavour with a little more depth. The ale should be cut with beef stock, half ale, half stock. It does not need to be reduced, but you should boil off the alcohol for a minute or two first before adding the stock. The sauce can be thickened by dusting the meat with flour before it’s fried, which should help you to stop boiling away too much liquid.
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I am a dessert wine novice but really want to find my way. What would be a wine that would cover most bases without pulling too tight on the purse strings? Richard Booty, Shaftsbury
Dessert wine always seems to cost a little more than the wine served with the savouries, but you generally don’t drink as much, so there should be a few pennies spare. The best way to find your way around is to get drinking and try a few different styles. The world of pudding wine is vast with a little something for everyone. I’m a big fan of pudding wine with a hint of botrytis, the noble rot, like Trinity Hill 'Gimblett Gravels' Botrytised Viognier (£15.25) for a half bottle, but remember you don’t need as much.
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What is the big deal about rapeseed oil and when would I use it? Frances Cooper, Cheltenham
Cold pressed rapeseed oil is offering an alternative to extra virgin olive oil. Apart from the local providence, rapeseed oil is said to have a number of health benefits: high in Omega 3, 6 and 9, a natural source of vitamin E and is high in unsaturated fats. It is one of the few oils that does not spoil when heated, so you can cook with it too. I’m not a fan, not keen on the flavour, but there are plenty of big names behind this product like James Martin, Raymond Blanc and more who do.
Ronnie’s of Thornbury 01454 411137 ~ The Muset by Ronnie 01179 737248 ~ www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
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hausbar
Opened in June 2006 by Aurelius Braunbarth, Hausbar has brought a much-needed injection of Berlin-esque class and style to the bar scene in Bristol.
Auri grew up in his father’s Michelin star restaurant and has lived and worked in the trade for over 23 years now. Bringing with him a passion and knowledge for cocktails that is second to none, Hausbar stands out from the crowd with a fine selection of premium spirits, award winning bartenders and excellent service… all without the fuss. Auri knows that the secret to a good cocktail is the balance between its different flavours. When combined each ingredient should be noticeable and yet the perfect mix will create a new taste experience. And Hausbar’s bartenders are experts in this field, with such an attention to detail that even the ice is twice frozen, melting at a slower rate and chilling the blend rather than diluting it. In a bar that offers so many classic 14
cocktails, balance becomes even more important as most of these drinks only contain three ingredients, making it impossible to hide a mistake. Hausbar does not make mistakes. A fine example of the perfect mixture is the homemade Falernum – a complex ingredient made from cloves, limes, ginger, vanilla, almonds, cinnamon and sugar. Soaking all those spices in two different rums for a couple of days produces a special seasoning for certain rum cocktails. But there is another important balance to be found in a bar, that of providing the attentive service and creating the perfect drink. Only the combination of the two makes a real bartender and it’s this that makes Hausbar
and its staff a cut above the rest, and why this popular Clifton haunt is consistently in the top ten of bar listings nationwide. Hausbar has shirked the bygone days and instead celebrates classic and modern cocktail concoctions in an atmosphere both buzzing and relaxed.
Hausbar 52 Upper Belgrave Road Clifton Bristol BS8 2XP 01179 466081 www.hausbar.co.uk
> flavour bibury court
Bibury Court & Nigel Godwin Nestled deep in the heart of the Cotswolds is a stunning Jacobean mansion surrounded by several acres of luscious countryside. Bibury Court Hotel is a picture of perfect serenity, providing an idyllic retreat from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. New to Bibury Court is Head Chef Nigel Godwin, winner of numerous accolades including three AA rosettes and was put forward for four. Nigel also started out as the sous chef at several Michelin star properties throughout his career. Nigel brings a wealth of experience, talent and passion to The Oak Room, Bibury’s acclaimed fine dining restaurant, and its informal sister eatery, The Brasserie. Nigel has cooked for just about everybody, from Nelson Mandela, to the Queen and even the Emperor of Japan. It’s clear that the man had ambition from the off: the young Nigel Godwin was blooded at the top level, trained and mentored by both Shaun Hill, and the distinguished Franco Taruschio of the famed Walnut Tree. So what would be his advice for aspiring chefs striving for success? “You need to make sure that your foundation is rock solid,” he says. “Start in a kitchen
where you can learn the basics, you need those. Don’t jump ahead; don’t be tempted by higher wages in a less-disciplined kitchen. Above all, you need to find the right chef to work under. Sound him out. You’re going to be working in a steaming kitchen with him 15 to 16 hours a day, so make sure he’s the right person for you. What bought about the desire to step into the kitchen? It is, after all, a workplace notorious for being punishing to those without the right character and strength of disposition. “I come from a background of hospitality. All my family worked in that field. My uncle owned a very good bakery, both my parents worked in service and I suppose it was a natural progression for me to enter that particular fray.” Nigel’s stance on local provenance is that if it’s good enough, he loves to source it locally. His focus is on top quality ingredients though, so if he has to search further afield for his ham, he’ll order Iberian. “I’ve had the honour of cooking for Prince
Charles on several occasions. He’s been a great advocate of sustainable produce and agriculture and is a great lover of food.” If he could have one final meal, what would it be? “Pierre Koffman’s pigs trotters,” he says, without a moment of hesitation. “The man is a genius.” And with that, one genius paying tribute to another, Nigel Godwin returns to the stove. Bibury Court has a huge future with Nigel at the helm. He serves up his own brand of highly seasonal cuisine, while the delightful staff do their utmost to ensure that they make your stay as perfect as possible, and are always more than happy to tailor their service to your personal requirements. Bibury Court Hotel Bibury, Cirencester Gloucestershire GL7 5NT 01285 740337 www.biburycourt.co.uk
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Do you ever find that no matter how many recipes you follow, tips you pick up on the TV or blogs you read on the internet you can never quite get that dish just right? Well, perhaps it’s time to go back to school and hone your cooking skills with those that make it their business to serve up the perfect platter. The young, the old or even the whole family can experience what it’s like to be at the cutting edge of the kitchen as we learn first-hand from the professionals.
back to school Little introduction is needed for Raymond Blanc and his two-starred restaurant Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in rural Oxfordshire, but it’s not only at the tables where Raymond serves up his treats, as Le Manoir also has a fantastic children’s cookery school housed in the restaurant’s kitchens from where his team can open up their secret book and share their knowledge with aspiring chefs.. hildren aged from seven to 16 can attend La Petite École to learn about the origins of ingredients, pick vegetables from the gardens at Le Manoir and experience cooking in a fun environment. The day is packed full of activity and allows for the children to enjoy their own created meals as well as indulging in the best of desserts. Certificates are also issued to each junior-chef at the end of the day. Prices are from £260 per child.
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le manoir
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Le Manoir also run an Adult and Child Cookery Day, where parents can bond with their kids while working as a team under skilled guidance. The added purpose of this course is to create an enjoyable learning environment that would hopefully continue in the home for delicious meals to be produced as a family. Prices from £520 per adult with child. Both of these courses are non-residential but if a family of four were to stay overnight prices start from £480 per night. It really should be on everyone’s bucket list…
Church Road Great Milton Oxford, OX44 7PD 01844 278881 www.manoir.com
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balmy kitchen he Balmy Kitchen is a cookery school with a difference, run from the warm, friendly atmosphere of a home kitchen in Bath. The focus is on cooking for fun using local and seasonal produce. Whether you need to rekindle your interest in cooking, or whether you’re just a novice, you’ll learn new recipes and techniques that will stimulate you to explore ideas and tastes that will give pleasure to your family and friends for years to come.
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You can choose from a range of courses, each tailored to encourage and stimulate all ages and levels of ability in four-hour sessions of international cuisine, seasonal entertaining or health-related cooking. The group will discuss the ideas behind the ingredients and recipes chosen and during the session will compare foods and their qualities, sampling a range of produce and sharing in the process of preparation. Everyone will then eat the glorious meal that’s been cooked – with a glass or two of wine or some homemade fruit juice!
It’s a very simple formula, but one that works for director Laraine Hare who, after 20 years working at Bath University, decided to combine her love of teaching and cooking and set up the cookery school in the basement kitchen of her Georgian home. “The Balmy Kitchen and I have enjoyed many sessions over the past couple of years,” Laraine says, “During the sessions, we not only discuss the ingredients and techniques involved, but also get to know one another, sharing our experiences and interests. Sometimes people come in a group of friends who already know one another, or it may be a mixed group who have never met before. Whichever is the case, we always end with the sharing of the meal that we have prepared together, and a sense of having had a unique experience.” Whether you want a team-building event for your staff, a present for a friend or member of your family, or an unusual idea for a teenage birthday party, The Balmy kitchen
cookery school
can provide you with a stimulating experience that will enrich your life and improve your skills in the kitchen. You can choose an evening session that runs from 6pm to 10pm, or a Sunday lunch from 11am to 3pm. It costs £75 for individual bookings, or £60 per head for couples that includes a three-course meal and a folder of recipes and ideas. There is a reduction for groups, who can choose their own topic and time. The Balmy Kitchen makes the perfect outing for a group of friends or colleagues, an ideal present, or most importantly a deserved treat for yourself!
Kensington Place Bath BA16AW 01225 428309 www.balmykitchen.co.uk 17
> flavour white pepper
White Pepper is an exciting cookery school positioned on a beautiful rural beef farm in Lytchett Matravers, Dorset – yet only a stone’s throw away from both Poole and Dorchester.
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The school is directed by Luke Stuart, who has been privileged to work both home and abroad for some of the best names in the business including the Rouxs, Conrans and the Trumps. The White Pepper team is made up of qualified teachers, food experts and industry professionals who are all driven by a passion for quality food and first-class teaching. Professional courses teach the how and why of cookery in a relaxed and engaging way. Their vision is that you leave feeling:
‘’Inspired, confident and skilled.’’ White Pepper has a comprehensive range of inspirational cookery courses and workshops and a student base ranging from four to 80 years old, working with complete novices and skilled foodies alike.
‘’...a very inspiring and enriching experience.’’ Adel Hanna, 2011 The school also specialises in corporate team building days and has various packages to engage teams of all sizes.
‘’...a very creative and fun day out of the office with White Pepper...judging from the comments I have received from my team, I’d have to say that all their planning and commitment really paid off.’’
SNAP UP A COURSE OR WORKSHOP TODAY AUTUMN KITCHEN Four-week cookery course or workshops CULINARY SKILLS WORKSHOPS Mornings & evenings COOKERY DEMONSTRATIONS Seasonally FESTIVE KITCHEN Four-week cookery course or workshops MEAT KITCHEN Demos / half-day / full-day workshops PROFESSIONAL CAKES Four-week course KIDS COOKERY SCHOOL Including birthday parties BESPOKE Cookery workshops GENTLEMEN’S COOKBOOK Monthly club
Sunseeker International, 2011 While also being an associate member of Direct from Dorset, White Pepper works closely with The Dorset Charcuterie Company to source meat and charcuterie products with excellent provenance. Through this collaboration the two companies now offer a formidable range of offthe-wall courses named MEAT Kitchen. The specific course titles include Master Meat, Charcuterie, Furred & Feathered and The Forager. Both White Pepper and The Dorset Charcuterie Company can be seen performing cookery demonstrations at Dorset’s most-admired food festivals, while also running their own popular seasonal demonstrations at the Bere Farm. The school also takes time to serve its community well by working with local schools, youth groups and various charities. Notably White Pepper has assisted Diverse Abilities Plus in producing a family cookbook, Scrumptious, which will appear on shop shelves later in October.
SPRING KITCHEN Four-week cookery course or workshops SUMMER KITCHEN Four-week cookery course or workshops UNIVERSITY KITCHEN Two-day September course
JOIN US FOR OUR CHRISTMAS OPEN DAY: Saturday 10th December With FREE activities, demonstrations, carol singing, roasted chestnuts, festive drinks and much more. Also on site is an excellent tearoom and The Rural Farm Shop Company.
Bere Farm, Wareham Road Lytchett Matravers, Dorset BH16 6ER 07775 742 900 www.white-pepper.co.uk 19
> flavour so tasty
so tasty! cookery school
Anjna Pat el-Holtham
o Tasty is the Cheltenham-based brainchild of Anjna Patel-Holtham, a fantastic cook and devoted mother-ofone. Anjna started her cookery school to get children interested in food and her belief is that learning to cook is an effective way of encouraging children to eat sensibly, as well as helping them learn a valuable life skill.
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The school runs throughout half-terms and holidays, and has been gathering young devotees at quite a pace. Anjna is now looking to expand her classes into termtime, starting up after-school and weekend classes when she gets the chance. The next classes will be held during October half-term and the children are generally taught a savoury dish and a sweet dish. The classes are completely hands-on and they get to take their dishes home to share with the family. Not only this, but So Tasty! can also run cooking parties for children or hold 20
private classes. During the Christmas holidays, they will be running Christmas themed classes, where children get to make some yummy goodies for the festive period. The recipes taught to the children include a variety of ingredients that may be new to them, and all manner of dishes are taught, including; fajitas, fishcakes Thai green curry and lamb kebabs, as well as sweet treats such as cheesecake, chocolate mousse and tarte au citron. They are also taught useful kitchen techniques, hygiene and health and safety. The idea is that children can then cook for their parents, or at least want to help with the cooking. Very handy after a gruelling day at work! Not only are younglings being nurtured in the culinary arts, but parents have also been showing an interest: Anjna will be running Adult Beginner’s classes as well as Adult Indian classes, with the option of starting
dessert and easy-dinner-party-dish classes as well. In addition to cookery classes, So Tasty! also do a lovely line in cakes. Anjna now bakes cakes for several venues in Cheltenham and recently catered for 350 cake lovers, her biggest party yet. Her lemon drizzle, carrot and Victoria sponge cakes are delicious, and all are baked in her kitchen at home using only natural ingredients. Of course, as Anjna says, the best way of knowing what goes into your food is by cooking it yourself, which allows you to control ingredients and increase health benefits. Anjna takes a lot of care both when cooking and teaching, and the results are always oh so tasty.
01242 587248 www.so-tasty.co.uk
> flavour teen chef
James Underdown
JAMES’ SUMMER CRUNCH Preparation time: 5-8 minutes per pot
Nick Gregory meets up with an inspiring young chef-to-be... hen I was about nine years old I wanted to be a vet, at 12 I liked the idea of fighting fires and at 14 girls and sport came into the equation. By the time adolescence had subsided and the big, nasty, real world loomed, I had no clue as to what the future was to hold and what my part was to be in it. Some people just know what they want to do and follow their dreams from an early age and more power to them.
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teen chef One such lad is 14-year-old James Underdown, from Freshford, who, unlike most of his peers with designs on joining the army, going into space or defending a constitution, has his sights set on becoming a chef and restaurateur. “Ever since I was very young I’ve always had a thing for food and cooking,” he says, “but it’s only been recently that my passion has transformed into what I hope will become a way of life. My dream is to one day open and run my own successful restaurant somewhere in the South West.” We’ve put James to the test and asked him to present some of his dishes to flavour readers over the next few months and this issue he has come up with a ‘Summer Crunch’. “I’ll start off simply,” James says. “Summer may be ending, but we should still take advantage of our great British strawberries and raspberries.”
Ingredients Granola cereal Clotted cream Tinned or fresh peach slices A handful of strawberries and raspberries Mint leaves Cocoa power Method 1 Pour little more than a centimetre of granola into the bottom of the dish, and then spread clotted cream over until fully covered. 2 Thinly slice the peaches and put a few layers on top, again making sure you can’t see any clotted cream. Now add another centimetre layer of granola. 3 Chop the green off the strawberries and place them so they’re pointing upwards and cut down into thin slices. Layer them in circles. 4 Spread another thin layer of cream and sprinkle with a little cocoa power. Garnish with a mint leaf for taste and look. I used a glass cocktail dish to present it in, but any small bowl will do. I hope you enjoy it!!!
James 21
www.timdoe.com
Come & see our workshops & showroom Maesdown Farmhouse, Evercreech, Somerset, BA4 6EG Office: 01749 831225 • Mobile: 07766 713301 • Email: info@timdoe.com
> flavour burford house
burford house Returning to urban life was made all the more difficult for flavour correspondent Emily Richards after an overnight stay in the heart of England Two hours after leaving our desks in Bristol on a Friday evening, my partner and I were sipping Prosecco and local Hook Norton beer in a tranquil courtyard in the Cotswolds. Ian, the owner of the Burford House Hotel, was telling us about the grape crop hanging from the fairy-lit vines, and making us feel right at home. It’s easy to forget how close we live to the Cotswolds – and travelling through beautifully English villages such as Barnsley and Bibury we felt immediately relaxed as we entered Burford, one of the prettiest towns in the region. Passing honey-coloured houses we made the easy transition from city life to rural serenity. In three years Ian and Stewart (co-owner and head chef) have built up the excellent reputation of this charming hotel, thoughtfully creating eight individually-styled bedrooms and a convivial atmosphere. Overlooking Burford High Street, our room housed a four-poster bed and traditional furniture, with a sleek, well-lit bathroom. Dinner was a highlight of our stay: a goat’s cheese and beetroot Arancini amuse-bouche and basket of homemade rolls set the tone. The starters were presented on contemporary dishes and perfectly formed. The wood pigeon, again with seasonal beetroot, tasted great. The truffle and porcini crème brûlée was light and fluffy under a caramelised crust, and was complemented by homemade rosemary muffins and thick, onion marmalade. 24
A good bottle of Australian Shiraz set off the Cotswold lamb with dauphinois potatoes. The monkfish wrapped in Parma ham was delicate and flavoursome. It was surrounded by a pea and broad bean ‘minestrone’; the bright green colour demonstrating the freshness of the vegetables. To finish, Ian recommended the Crudge’s Revolution – a ripe cheese produced by local celebrity and Cotswold-convert Alex James. The cheese came with a miniature bunch of grapes from the courtyard vine and tasted great with a glass of smooth, red Spanish dessert wine. The thoughtful philosophy of Burford House Hotel manifested itself throughout our stay: Friendly, calm staff in the dining room and homemade cranberry and white chocolate cookies in the bedroom. Ian is personable and hospitable; Stewart specialises in sourcing local, seasonal products creating monthly menus that are well thought out and beautifully cooked; both contribute to the feeling of special care and individuality during our stay.
individuality. Chain stores are non-existent, unless you count Joules and Maison Blanc that are positively obligatory in the Cotswolds. Independent stores, such as Mrs Bumbles of Burford’s delicatessen and The Sweet Shop were charmingly-decorated, carefully-stocked and always welcoming. It’s never easy returning to urban life after an idyllic trip to the country. The warm nature of the Burford House Hotel, the exquisite food and its location made the journey home short if not sweet. Which means, of course, that we may well be crossing the Oxfordshire border again before too long.
Breakfast, again in the ‘Centre Stage’ restaurant (with homages to Broadway on the walls and show tunes playing at a polite volume), was delicious. Fresh juice, Cotswold yoghurt, fruit and own-recipe muesli were a prequel to a hot, tasty full English and a flavoursome smoked salmon and scrambled eggs.
Burford House 99 High Street Burford Oxfordshire OX18 4QA
Wandering along the vibrant high street on Saturday morning added to the sense of
01993 823151 www.burford-house.co.uk
Travelling through beautifully English villages such as Barnsley and Bibury we felt immediately relaxed as we entered Burford
> flavour the michelin guide
michelin With the latest Michelin Guide due to be launched on October 6, flavour’s Louis Labron-Johnson takes a look at this infamous and revered award system…
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t might seem odd for global gastronomic gourmets to be in thrall to a tyre company, but the evolution of Michelin is rich and indeed fascinating. Founded in 1889 by the brothers Edouard and Andre Michelin, their innovations in the motoring industry - which included both the first removable tyres and first pneumatic (air-filled) tyres - soon propelled them ahead of their competitors. In 1900 a small, practical guide was given complimentary to customers of the firm, aiming to make travelling easier by listing petrol stations, repair pits and hotels around France. Originally the emphasis was placed on motoring and mechanics, rather than food and board, but over time roads and petrol stations became more numerous and better connected, and the section on hotels and restaurants became ever more popular, eventually becoming the raison d’etre of the publication. The Michelin brothers were aware that the mediocrity of many of the country’s hotels and inns was an impediment to the development of tourism, thus the guides did not only list the places one
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a guide to the guide could sleep and sup, but gave unambiguous assessments of the quality of service in relation to price, overall honesty, and the frequency in which they encountered bedbugs and cockroaches! These ‘reviews’ were then forwarded to the patrons of hotels, who were left in no uncertain terms as to their obligations to their guests. In 1926 the appraisals were further modified to include a rating system that has since become legendary. Probably the most coveted asterisk in history, the Michelin star has been sought after and fought over since its inception in the tyre manufacturer’s guidebook to good French eating. Today the star rating system is recognised worldwide, and focuses on the excellence of culinary technique, consistency of flavour, and overall quality of the food, rather than décor, surroundings or the service provided. The system is uncomplicated, yet the stars are used very sparingly; out of the thousands of restaurants reviewed by Michelin’s undercover food tasting team, very few receive even one star, which is the primary reason that they are so prestigious.
best in britain... Great Britain now boasts 143 Michelin stars in total, which is a far cry from the meagre 25 awarded in 1974, the first year the guide was released on our shores in its current format. It is testament to how far we have come as a foodie nation, and the world is fast realising that ‘bangers and mash’, for so long synonymous with the country’s culinary failings, is no longer our greatest contribution to international cuisine. Indeed, many chefs, critics and foodies consider London to be the most exciting city in the world when it comes to eating out, the quality of food there exceeded only by the sheer variety of cuisine available, perhaps more diverse than anywhere outside our multicultural, cosmopolitan stewing-pot of a capital. However, when its comes to the serious star collecting, Britain still has a long way to go when compared to Michelin heavyweights France and Japan, the former with an astonishing 571 stars on total, and the latter with 240 in Tokyo alone, including 14 restaurants holding the cherished three stars, which makes it the most heavily-starred city in the world. Britain currently has four restaurants holding three stars; two of which are in the sleepy village of Bray, where both Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and Alain Roux’s Waterside reside.
a star is born! over the years The Michelin rating system has not been without controversy over the years, here are some of the critiques: Celebrity chef Marco Pierre White, the youngest ever recipient of three Michelin stars, famously returned them, saying that he was being judged by people who knew a lot less about cooking than him, and that he was bending over backwards for them, giving them too much respect.
The stars and what they mean:
A very good restaurant in its category.
★
Excellent cooking and worth a detour.
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.
Some American food critics, notably Stephen Kurutz of the New York Times, have complained that the guide is biased toward French-style restaurants, and only gives its awards to the larger, grander establishments, ones with the ‘correct grade of cotton in the serviettes’. When Michelin released their first Japanese guide in 2007, it gave Tokyo an unprecedented 191 stars, more than any other city, including Paris. However, many in Japan were not impressed, some chefs even refusing to accept a star. “How can a bunch of foreigners show up and tell us what is good or bad?” said Tokyo chef Toshiya Kadowaki. 27
Max Drake is a practising medical herbalist at the Urban Fringe Dispensary, where he also runs courses and workshops teaching how to use herbs safely and effectively, treat common ailments and stay healthy.
the herb doctor S THI TH N MO
elderberries
he berries need to be picked when they are full and black, preferably on a dry sunny day. Pick them in whole bunches and strip them off their stalks with a fork when you get home. There are many ways to prepare elderberries, and I prefer to make a tincture, as this preserves both the juice and also extracts some of the important compounds that are found in the skins.
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But first of all, why would you bother? After all, they don’t really taste that great, and if you eat too many they’ll go straight through you. However, elderberries have been known about since the beginning of time for their curative properties, many of which have been confirmed by modern
pharmacological studies. Elderberries contain flavonoid compounds that prevent infection from the H1N1 flu virus, which is the one we’re all supposed to be scared of at the moment. Studies have compared elderberry flavonoids favourably with Tamiflu, which is one of the main drugs for preventing and treating bird flu. When you add to this other life-enhancing properties that are found in this abundantly available fruit, such as the presence of protective antioxidants, which are supposed to confer a whole host of benefits from slowing down the ageing process to protecting against cancer, then you might want to have a bash at making some elderberry tincture.
For more information and references see www.urbanfringe.org 28
elderberry tincture Wash the berries then mash them up so they’re thoroughly squished (wear an apron!). Put the whole sloppy mess into a jar that can be tightly capped, and pour on enough vodka to cover it and then seal the jar. Keep it somewhere dark, and preferably warm for at least a month, shaking it regularly. When the time comes, pour it out through a sieve lined with muslin cloth, pressing the pulp to extract as much liquid as possible. Filter the resulting liquid through coffee filters, which can take a while depending on how pulpy your liquid is. The resulting beautiful dark reddish and clear liquid is your tincture. This process will preserve the properties of the fruit, and will keep until the following year. There’s no need to refrigerate it. It may be used as an anti-viral to prevent and treat colds and flu, as well as for the other things mentioned above, and the typical adult dose is to take a teaspoon of this twice daily for prevention, four times daily for treatment.
This year has seen the introduction of a new European directive on the supply of herbs. The original intention was to protect people from poor quality or potentially dangerous herbal medicines, but the effect has been to grant a monopoly over the supply of non-culinary herbs to the pharmaceutical industry.
a common goal erbalists up and down the country are becoming increasingly creative in reclaiming ownership of the knowledge and use of herbs for health and well-being, and our regular contributor, Bristol-based herbalist Max Drake, has set up a new herb-growing venture and educational project called Common Treasury.
“Gail’s been growing herbs for years, so she knows what I’m talking about. She’s already created a medicinal garden at the Helios Medical Centre in Bristol, and is planning to bring some biodynamic farming techniques to the Common Treasury. We’re just at the stage of clearing the land and putting in a couple of dozen raised beds.
“We’ve taken on one-and-a-half acres of land alongside the Severn Project, a Community Supported Agriculture scheme between Bristol and Keynsham,” he says. “I’m working with Gail Elvidge, who is a complete genius at growing herbs, and the aim is to produce a really substantial and wide range of culinary and medicinal herbs, with the first harvest planned for next summer.
“We’re also going to have an outdoor teaching space, so that students on my herbal medicine course can have some direct contact with the herbs that they’re studying. They’ll be learning how to take them from seed to propagating, growing and harvesting, and finally making all sorts of different herbal preparations.
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“I’ve been teaching people how to use herbs for a few years now in Bristol, and there is a real hunger for this knowledge. Whenever I do a herb walk in and around the green spaces of Bristol, you can tell that some of the people are completely enchanted to find out about some of the extraordinary properties of very common wayside plants. It feels like we have some sort of ancestral memory of these plants, and getting to know them feels like welcoming an old friend back into your life.
The name ‘Common Treasury’ was inspired by a song, The World Turned Upside Down, about the Diggers in 1649:
“We come in peace they said To dig and sow We come to work the lands in common And to make the waste ground grow This earth divided We will make whole So it will be A common treasury for all”
“This is one way we can take control back from the pharmaceutical companies and Euro bureaucrats. You simply can’t patent plants and plant medicines and expect to get away with it!” Max will be writing about a different herb each month and promises to keep us abreast of developments at the Common Treasury.
For more info visit www.urbanfringe.co.uk 29
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Taking inspiration from the Manor’s 55-acre estate and surrounding Cotswold countryside, the menu, which is available to enjoy wherever and whenever you like, features local producers and hearty country fare. Stand-out favourites include the ‘Big Board’, a British mezze platter with locally-reared salamis, air-dried hams, cheeses and homemade piccalilli as well as the chicken and ham hock pie, truffle risotto with chive cream and other warming wintry dishes for the autumnal months ahead. For something really quite special, try the hotel’s restaurant and the a la carte menu for dinner. With soaring ceilings, views onto the grounds and grown-up interiors, it’s a perfect spot for a romantic meal and other celebrations. Comfortable, contemporary and country without the kitsch – Cowley Manor is a go-to culinary destination for hotel guests and locals alike.
Cowley Manor Cowley Near Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NL 01242 870 900 www.cowleymanor.com 30
a cotswold culinary destination
ong known for their awardwinning C-Side Spa, stunning grounds and seriously cool contemporary interiors, Cowley Manor has now become somewhat of a culinary destination as well. Head Chef Matthew Cuthbert (formerly of Marco Pierre White and Heston Blumenthal), joined Cowley Manor in July and has been slaving in the kitchen over the summer months to create a new all-day dining experience.
❉ competition Win a night for two at Cowley Manor in the Cotswolds! Inclusive of a one-night stay for two people, midweek from Sunday to Thursday, along with a three-course dinner and full breakfast. Please email your details to: competitions@flavourmagazine.com Prize is subject to availability and excludes bank holidays. Must be redeemed within one year of competition end date.
Valentine Warner
Valentine cooks a collection of recipes from his new book The Good Table
VEAL WITH TALEGGIO & PARMA HAM Serves 1
WATERCRESS & GRUYÈRE SOUFFLÉ Soufflés are a fine thing yet oen associated with complications. ey are, however, easy to make but, having said that, they behave as I do in a church service: aer the vicar has whispered ‘all stand’, I spring up, but aer only seconds, my rigid posture more resembles a sulking teenager. Get guests to the table quickly; a little neurotic fussing is acceptable.
Method 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C fan/220°C/Gas 7. Butter the inside of a soufflé dish and dust with 1 teaspoon of flour. Turn the flour around the dish and tip out the excess. Cut a strip of baking paper and tie it around the outside of the soufflé dish with kitchen string, leaving 5cm rising above the rim to make a paper collar. 2 Place the watercress on a board and trim off only the truly tough stalks. Pick out any flora that don’t look like watercress and remove any unwelcome fauna. Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and fill a big bowl with cold water with some ice cubes clicking about within. Drop the watercress in the pan, and when the water returns to the boil, cook it for 30 seconds, then immediately lift it out and put it straight into the icy bath. 3 When properly cooled, drain it thoroughly and gently wring out any remaining water with your hands. Purée the watercress in a blender or in a bowl with a stick blender. Leave it to one side. 32
Serves 2-4 Ingredients 3 large bunches of watercress A few ice cubes 80g butter, plus extra for greasing 80g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 600ml whole milk 150g good Gruyère cheese, finely grated 6 large free-range eggs, separated Flaked sea salt and black pepper Lightly dressed green salad, to serve (optional) 4 Melt the butter in a medium, nonstick saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook for a few seconds, then gradually add the milk, stirring constantly with a whisk to eradicate lumps. It will all clag up initially, but persevere with the milk and all will loosen again by the time the milk is incorporated. Remove from the heat and add 65g of the grated cheese. Stir well until melted, then add the egg yolks two at a time, whisking well between each addition. Stir in the cooled watercress purée and check the seasoning one last time. 5 Whisk the egg whites in a large bowl until stiff. Fold roughly a quarter of the egg white into the cheese sauce to slacken the mixture. Tip the contents of the pan back into the bowl with the remaining egg white and fold in gently. Pour the mixture into the prepared dish and sprinkle with the reserved cheese. Put on an oven tray and bake in the centre of the oven for 22–25 minutes, or until the soufflé is well risen and golden brown. It should be a little runny inside. Command your guests to sit down just before it is ready. A lightly dressed green salad goes very well with it.
Ingredients 70g white breadcrumbs, made from stale bread ½ teaspoon flaked sea salt 1 free-range egg A drop of whole milk 1 good tablespoon plain flour 2 veal escalopes (about 75g each), beaten to about 3mm thickness 2 slices of Parma ham Black pepper 40g Taleggio cheese, rind removed, cut into wafer-thin slices 40g butter 12 sage leaves
To serve Lemon wedge(s) Steamed chard or spinach
Method 1 Place the breadcrumbs on a plate and mix in the salt. In a bowl, beat the egg with the milk. Sift the flour on to another plate. Arrange these in a row: flour, egg, crumbs. 2 Take the veal escalopes and lay a piece of Parma ham on each. Grind a little black pepper over one of them, then add two wafer-thin slices of the cheese, laid side-by-side and covering the ham. Lay over the other piece of veal, Parma ham side-down, making a sandwich. Press down lightly so that everything is stuck together. 3 Gently introduce both sides to the floured plate (make sure the thin sides are floured too, and gently pat off any excess). Next take it to the bowl with the egg, dipping both sides, and finally to the seasoned breadcrumbs. Make sure that the crumbing is all over and around. 4 Melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. When it’s foaming, lower in the veal and fry for about 3 minutes on each side, or until the breadcrumbs are a rich gold. Add the sage leaves when you turn the veal, making sure they are not on top of each other. It’s important to regulate the heat so that the cheese inside has a chance to melt and the veal cook, rather than just the crumbs on the outside. 5 Serve with the crispy sage, the butter from the frying pan and a good wedge of lemon. Steamed chard or spinach would be the correct accompaniment.
FRESH RASPBERRY JELLY Serves 2 Ingredients 750g raspberries, plus extra for decorating 200ml cold water 3 heaped tablespoons caster sugar, plus extra if necessary A squeeze of lemon juice (optional) 4 sheets of gelatine (about 8g) 2 tablespoons crème de menthe (optional) Double cream, to serve (optional)
Writing about jelly makes me think of my childhood, a happy action of which was spent throwing licked Chivers jelly cubes on to the ceiling, where they would stick fast. Oh happy days! No such luck with this recipe, I’m aaid, as it is made with esh uit. Mint and raspberries always go well together, even in this crème de menthe-splashed version, which has a slightly ghoulish colour combo. Method 1 Put the raspberries in a saucepan with the water and sugar. Stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, then bring to the boil. Reduce the heat slightly and simmer briskly for 6-8 minutes, or until the raspberries are very soft, stirring occasionally. 2 Take the pan off the heat and pass the purée through a fine sieve into a large jug (do not push it through too hard, as grinding the pips will result in a cloudy jelly). Make the liquid up to 600ml with cold water. Sweeten with a touch more sugar, if necessary, and add a squeeze of lemon if you think it needs sharpening just a little. Return to the saucepan and heat gently. It should not be boiling hot when you add the gelatine. 3 Soak the gelatine sheets in a bowl half-filled with cold water for 4 minutes until soft. Lift out with your fingers and squeeze over the bowl to remove as much of the water as possible. Whisk the gelatine into the warm raspberry mixture until melted, then pour into a 600ml jelly mould or individual ramekins. Cover with clingfilm and chill in the fridge for around 8 hours or until set.
The Good Table By Valentine Warner Published by Mitchell Beazley, £20
4 When ready to eat, slide a knife gently around the outside of each jelly, then dip the mould or moulds into a bowl of just-boiled water and hold for the count of five. Turn the jelly out on to a large plate, or individual plates, and decorate with extra raspberries. If it’s not too left field for you, pour over a little crème de menthe just before serving with cream. 33
> flavour valentine warner
PICKLED HERRINGS A silver tide of pickled herrings is shoaled up in my idge and, when there are none of my own le, I will take a pot om a shop shelf, open it immediately and pay for the empty jar with the rest of my purchases. Odd moments have seen me crouching on a kitchen stool, chin back, while attempting to gulp the fish down whole. I need them. I like my cure quite sweet in taste, so cut back on the sugar as you see fit.
Makes 2 x 500g jars Ingredients 6 whole medium herrings, scaled, gutted, filleted and pin-boned 3 tablespoons flaked sea salt
Marinade 8 juniper berries 2 teaspoons coriander seeds 1 teaspoon caraway or dill seeds 2 teaspoons fennel seeds
1 teaspoon mustard seeds 10 black peppercorns 500ml white wine vinegar 200g caster sugar 4 small bay leaves 2 small carrots, peeled 1 medium white onion, very finely sliced
To serve crusty rye bread a little cold butter a scraping of hot horseradish
Method 1 To sterilise the jars, preheat the oven to 160°C fan/180ºC/Gas 4. Wash the jars and lids really well and put them on a baking tray in the oven for 10 minutes. Put a clean cloth on the kitchen table and lay out the fillets in close rows, skin-side down. Evenly scatter over the salt and leave them for 1½ hours. 2 To make the marinade, crush the juniper berries and coriander seeds a little under a knife, as this will help them release their taste. Tip all the spices into a medium pan and warm them over a low heat until their smell comes to the nose. Do not burn them. Pour in the vinegar and sugar. Scrumple the bay leaves to help them release their aroma, and then add them to the pan. Continue to simmer gently to melt the sugar as you prepare the carrots. Slice them as close to paper-thin as you can and add to the pot with the onion. Bring it all up to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Leave to cool completely. If the liquid is applied to the fish hot, they will cook rather than pickle. 3 When their time is up, put the herrings in a colander and rinse well under cold water. Pat the fillets dry with kitchen paper. Cut each fillet in half at a diagonal angle. Sprinkle some of the marinade into the base of the two sterilised jars and scatter with a few pieces of the fish. It’s nice if the silvery sides press against the glass, as this is what you will see when opening the fridge or when the jar is placed on the table. Add a little onion and carrot. 4 Continue layering the jars, fairly dividing the bay leaves between them, until the top of each jar is reached. Make sure that the pickling liquor completely covers the fish and goes to just under the brim of each jar. Cover tightly and chill in the fridge for at least two days before serving. Eat them before and they will not have had time to soften and mature; open a tin of pâté instead. They will store well in the fridge for 1 month, but should be eaten within a week once opened. (This is why it is better to make them in smaller jars rather than a single big one.) 5 Serve with good rye bread, cold butter and hot horseradish, making sure each loaded morsel is quivering with the onion and carrot. 34
t he u lt i m at e c hr i s tm a s
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Get the festive party started with flavour’s guide to the South West’s hottest spots to wine, dine and have a great time…
flavour
Mint Hotel verlooking the splendid Temple Gardens at the heart of Bristol is a mighty fine restaurant starring an AA Rosette-winning team of talented young chefs. City Café has just unwrapped its festive menu, and my, does it make the collective bellies rumble here at flavour HQ.
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and fish velouté is a fresh, yet hearty take on the Chrimbo dinner, and the menu just gets better from here on: including the quintessential sticky toffee pud is a no-brainer, but partnering it with a malted banana ice cream…well, heavenly is the word that springs to mind.
Keeping things seasonal is a mantra in the restaurant, which is situated in the elegant and contemporary Mint Hotel. Whether it’s their succulent Christmas turkey with all the trimmings, or a modern twist on one of the classics, City Café does things their way, and with astounding results.
Tis the season of goodwill, and the good folks at City Café sure know how to kick-start the festivities.
The pan-fried sea bass with savoy cabbage, roasted butternut squash
Special Offer For parties of 10 or more, they are offering four (yes four!) bottles of wine on the house when you order from their festive menu, which is already exceptional value.
Mint Hotel Bristol, Temple Way, Bristol BS1 6BF 01179 251001 www.minthotel.com
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Charingworth Manor
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haringworth Manor is an idyllic and luxurious 14th-century Cotswold manor house set in a 55-acre estate just east of one of the Cotswold’s most attractive villages, Chipping Campden. With heavy oak beams, a wealth of antique furniture and tapestries and roaring log fires, it is the perfect setting for Christmas and New Year breaks and celebrations. The Christmas season is traditionally a time for dining with colleagues, clients, friends and family. Whether you hold a party in the seclusion of your own private room or dine in the cosy John Grenville Restaurant, you will enjoy cuisine that has been awarded two rosettes by the AA. The mouthwatering Christmas menus are served from late
November until December 23rd. And, should you wish to make a night of it, accommodation in a classic room is available to partygoers from £42.50 per person including the hearty classic breakfast. The hotel also offers a selection of longer breaks over Christmas and New Year as well as pre-and postChristmas breaks. Each of the bedrooms has its own unique style of furnishing and decor so there is always something new to experience! The hotel’s health and leisure facilities include a heated Romanesque swimming pool, gym, sauna and steam room. Full details of Charingworth Manor’s Christmas and New Year programme together with the menus can be found on the website.
Charingworth Manor Hotel, Nr Chipping Campden, Gloucs GL55 6NS 01386 593 555 www.classiclodges.co.uk/charingworthmanor
Noa
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lunge deep into the heart of Clifton Village, past wine merchants, antique shops and luxury bathroom stores, and you will be rewarded with a hidden gem, a fantastic Japanese eatery serving the freshest of Eastern cuisine. NOA focus on a heady fusion of traditional and progressive Japanese fare, serving their own twists and variations on old favourites; teriyaki; ramen; sushi and sashimi are all on offer here, and they are crafted with the deftness of touch and attention to detail that makes Japanese food arguably the most celebrated in the world today.
parties throughout the Christmas season, and it’s worth experiencing their premium sake, plum wine and the exotic range of Japanese cocktails available there. Trained in Japan, NOA’s chef obtains his fish from local sustainable fisheries, and his meat and veg are also supplied locally. His philosophy is simple: his food is all about equilibrium and harmony. Every dish he cooks possesses a delicate balance of flavour, colour, texture, and importantly to him, a high nutritional value.
The décor here is thoughtful and understated; all the furniture has been handpicked separately, which A refreshing alternative to the lends a quirky individualism traditional festive fare enjoyed to the surroundings in this in England, NOA can cater for lovely, friendly restaurant.
NOA Japanese Restaurant, 12-13 Waterloo Street, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4BT 01179 732881 www.noajapanese.co.uk 37
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The ground is now strewn thick with golden leaves and as the last of the sun recedes gently away for the next few months, our minds are already turning to plan that all important Christmas party. If you’re looking for a warm, convivial experience, sitting cosily around a roaring hearth-place, then a visit to The Elephant will see you right. This beautiful Bristol pub, built in the 1700s, has been painstakingly refurbished by its current owner Ben Bartrip, who has transformed the interior into a light, airy space with chunky butcher’s furniture to perfectly complement the period settings. As well as the spacious bar downstairs, there is a function room upstairs which can seat up to 50 ravenous revellers. Customers are in good company too, as the bar stocks almost exclusively awardwinning wines as well as a seasonal cocktail menu, headlining with their signature blend, ‘The Elephant’; a delicious and heady concoction containing Bristol Cream, Cointreau, bitters and aromatics. As far as the food goes, The Elephant is outstanding. Effort goes into every part of their rustic, down-to-earth menu, including the gravy that takes them three days to prepare! Their constant search for the freshest, most seasonal regional produce, and little things, like the fact that they make their own mayonnaise, add to that personal and refreshing touch. This care has clearly extended to their delightful-sounding Christmas menu. With inspiring dishes such as pan-fried turbot on a bed of clams, samphire and spinach with a sake and coconut sauce, sitting alongside time-honoured classics like their slow-cooked shin of beef with mash and of course the gravy, there truly is something for everyone in the Elephant’s kitchen.
The Elephant 20 St Nicholas Street Bristol BS1 1UB 01179 293561 www.TheElephantBristol.co.uk 38
The Elephant
The Catherine Wheel
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ituated in Marshfield; a picture-book town on the edge of the Cotswolds, is a fine 17th-century inn, warm and welcoming to all and sundry. The Catherine Wheel is gearing up for Christmas, and here at flavour we’ve been given a little taste of what’s in store… Owner Roo and her fantastic team are doing a superb job, with the menu reflecting their passion for local produce, and the festive menu is no exception. Dishes such as a succulent turkey breast filled with cranberry and thyme stuffing are a subtle take on the traditional, executed and presented in a fashion most pleasing to the eye and taste bud, while the warm chocolate cheesecake with
Marshfield Ice Cream is a delightfully wicked treat. The inn can accommodate parties of up to 28, and have several cosy individually-furnished rooms, where your stomach and head can take respite in country-style comfort after the evening’s proceedings. Visitors to Marshfield will find it ideally located for visiting Bath and Bristol, as well as Castle Combe Motor Racing Circuit and Cheltenham Racecourse. The Catherine Wheel provides excellent value for money, you can gorge yourself on three delectable courses for just £20 per head, and Christmas crackers are most certainly included.
39 High Street, Marshfield, Wiltshire SN14 8LR 01225 892220 www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk
Bell’s Diner
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egularly voted one of the best restaurants in the UK, and twice winner of the South West’s best restaurant, Bell’s Diner has a fan base that stretches way beyond the borders of our fair city. Situated in a converted Victorian grocer’s in bohemian Montpelier, Bristol, Bell’s is delightfully idiosyncratic, with old typewriters, sacks of flour and empty jars tucked around a crackling hearth.
puree and clementine granita is quite delectable, and that’s not even broaching dessert. Shall we? The team get really playful with the sweets; among others there is a mince pie soufflé, served with brandy butter Anglaise and clotted cream, or alternatively a tonka bean rice pudding with Christmas tree (pine and sage) flavoured ice cream.
The restaurant is gearing up for the festive season in its own typically cutting-edge fashion. Respected chef and owner Chris Wicks has overhauled the Christmas dinner in marvellous style; witness the roast scallops with parsnip purée, pickled cranberries and roast potatoes. The salt-baked celeriac atop olive
In truth this menu is simply mouthwatering. That Chris has been running Bell’s for almost a decade now, and can still conjure up delicious, groundbreaking cuisine season in season out, is testament to him and his lovely team’s collective passion, flair and imagination. Treat yourself; it’s Christmas.
Bell's Diner, 1-3 York Road, Bristol BS6 5QB 01179 240357 www.bellsdiner.com 39
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Ston Easton
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winter’s celebration with family friends and loved ones takes on another dimension within the heart of village life. Ston Easton Park, only 10 miles from Bath, exudes luxury and the family comforts so treasured at this time of year. Glowing log fires, familiar faces surrounded by antique furniture and exquisite old masters creating a convivial ambience evokes a more leisured age. You can just imagine opening a book unveiling country life set in a period romance. Today, guests come to Ston Easton throughout the year on a regular basis to experience the everchanging seasons, dine in one of the award-winning restaurants or join the frequent monthly events hosted by wine connoisseurs,
literary specialists and passionate gardeners. For the forthcoming season look out for wedding open evenings and the annual Loofah Harvest during October. Watch and learn as talented chefs prepare festive delicacies at a Christmas Cookery Entertaining demonstration on November 17, and learn the art of wreath making at a Festive Floral Workshop on November 30. Discover the past of this gorgeous Palladian mansion on a History Tour, and then return to the fabled Grand Saloon for a Festive afternoon tea, on December 13. Then dance the night away at an elegant Xmas Black Tie Dinner Dance on December 16. Ston Easton Park is open for bookings so why not book the house for your own exclusive house party over the festive period?
Ston Easton, Somerset BA3 4DF 01761 241631 www.stoneaston.co.uk
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stalwart of the Whiteladies Road area, The Black Boy Inn Public House & Dining serves excellent seasonal cuisine, and retains a grandiose, yet contemporary charm.
The Black Boy Inn Public House & Dining
LIGHT LUNCH Choose one of our delicious light lunches, from only £5.95.
Dishes include: • Omelette Arnold Bennett • Glazed goat’s cheese salad • Open steak sandwich DINE WITH WINE AT THE BLACK BOY INN Accompany your light lunch with a 125ml glass of our lovely house wine for just an additional £1.00. FRESH SPECIALS Our specials board is changed daily, and usually features seafood such as fillet of turbot, and pan-seared scallops. Whether you fancy a tasty bite for lunch, a delicious evening meal or a relaxed drink with friends, you'll get a warm welcome at The Black Boy Inn. This community-led business is run by Head Chef Sam and his partner Ivona. The Black Boy Inn serves a range of real ales, fine wines, spirits, beers and soft drinks, together with fresh, seasonal food.
171 Whiteladies Rd, Redland, Bristol BS8 2RY 01179 735233 www.blackboy-inn-bristol.co.uk
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beautifully refurbished coaching inn at the heart of England’s oldest borough, The Kings Arms Hotel in Malmesbury has something for everyone. Catering both for the discerning professionals and the more ‘laisse faire’ among us, there is no better starting or ending point to complement this magnificent Wiltshire town than here within these 16thcentury walls. New Head Chef Peter Solet has come up with some extraordinary menus that are sure to tempt and tease. The Christmas Day gourmet lunch (£49.95) is a five-course belter, including an amuse-bouché, starter, refresher, main course and dessert and has a variety of choices normally not offered at this time of the year. And that’s what makes it stand out. A turkey supreme makes up the ode to tradition, while the ratatouille risotto, sea bass or the bell pepper piamontaise may be just what’s required as an alternative. In addition, The Kings Arms has a delicious and enticing festive menu available throughout December for lunch and dinner starting from just £14.95. This contains triumphs such as the homemade duck liver parfait with a hint of Cognac and pistachio served with red onion
Kings Arms
marmalade and toasted brioche, while the gently-grilled butterfly salmon served with Champagne sauce, asparagus, carrots and boiled new potatoes will set you on your way nicely. But the beauty of The Kings Arms is you need not be on your way. The hotel itself has 12 en suite bedrooms; all with their own unique character and after a bespoke and comfortable night’s sleep you’ll be ready for another one of Malmesbury’s favourites, breakfast in the light and airy Orangery. As well as two separate bars, there’s a function room upstairs that can accommodate those festive parties and retains the hotel’s boutique and personal feel. The facelift undertaken has given this hotel a new lease of life without detracting from its historical influences; it has kept hold of its down-to-earth past but has embraced the modern times with comfort and ease. Stop off in Malmesbury and do take in its charms, the most notable of which is certainly The Kings Arms. Hurry along! The Kings Arms 29 High Street Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 9AA 01666 823383 www.thekahotel.co.uk
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he Arundell Arms Hotel and Restaurant has been owned and run by the same family for 50 years and, as a former coaching inn, it has been welcoming guests for over 300 years. It is a unique venue that has the flexibility to create the perfect Christmas experience for any size of party up to 100 guests. All of the staff are local, professional and friendly (as consistently commented on in customer reviews), and really help to create a welcoming atmosphere that captures the spirit of Christmas. The kitchen is led by Head Chef Steve Pidgeon and his brigade of talented, young, local chefs. Steve is one of only 80 Masterchefs and his consistently high standard of food has been recognised over the last 17 years by the accolade of two AA Rosettes. His food is locally sourced, seasonal and offers a blend of contemporary and traditional dishes. The elegant restaurant has recently been redecorated and, with its high ceiling, glittering chandelier and huge Christmas tree, is ideal for a Christmas lunch or dinner. A choice of set menus start at ÂŁ17, while Steve is more than happy to design individual bespoke menus to suit all individual tastes and budgets.
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the
Arundell Arms hotel & restaurant
For private parties of up to eight guests, the Ottery Room is a recently-restored classic Georgian room. With its original wooden shutters in the bow window, log fire and illuminated by candles, it enhances the warmth and ambience of an intimate gathering. For a more informal setting, the old school house Tamar Room is popular for parties and discos for up to 100 people with its own bar and food service. The village pub, the Lifton Courthouse, is attached to the hotel and offers local ales and hearty, quality pub food. Formerly the village police station, it has exposed stone walls and the original cell bars at the windows. It has a lively informal atmosphere particularly on live music nights. Whether it’s the Lifton Courthouse, Tamar Room or the Restaurant, The Arundell Arms has its own unique warmth and ambience – the essence of Christmas.
The Arundell Arms Hotel Lifton Devon PL16 0AA 01566 784666 www.arundellarms.com
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the walnut tree HOTEL RESTAURANT & BAR
astefully modernised to meet the needs and expectations of the 21st century, e Walnut Tree’s bar, Lemon Tree Restaurant and e Bistro are delightfully warm and welcoming, serving mouthwatering food for all occasions.
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Come and celebrate the festive season in style with a delicious three-course meal and aerwards dance the night away with our resident DJ. Inclusive of streamers, crackers, hats & music for dancing. If you prefer we can arrange a private themed party of your choice. Please contact us for more details. • Friday & Saturday £29.00 Per Person • Other Nights £26.50 Per Person • Bed & Breakfast £70.00 Per Room Per Night (based on two sharing)
It’s Carnival time in Bridgwater in November; a truly magical time of the year! Warm up for the Carnival with our Buffet Supper on November 5th with a delicious three-course Carnival Menu for £18.50pp. (Available before & aer the fun!) Walnut Tree North Petherton, South of Bridgwater, Somerset, TA6 6QA Telephone 01278 662255 www.walnut-tree-hotel.co.uk
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Methuen Arms
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et in Corsham, a beautiful country village just eight miles from Bath, this historic inn with a rich and varied history has been lovingly and painstakingly refurbished by the Still family. The Methuen Arms has a real buzz and liveliness within its grand old interior; with exposed stone walls, open beams and a lovely ambience aided in no small part by the helpful and affable staff, who aim to tailor your experience to make it as you like it. The bar at the Methuen serves a variety of local real ales; you can sit in comfort amid exposed elm floorboards and taking in the magnificent Georgian period features and open log fires. Throughout the festive season the house is draped with fresh and seasonal greenery and there are several intimate dining rooms that can accommodate between 12 and 50 guests. It’s a real treat to dine at the Methuen; the food is outstanding and the kitchen team have crafted exciting menus for
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both Christmas lunch and dinner. At lunchtime, tuck into a ham hock and leek terrine, followed by the roasted free-range turkey with chestnut and prune stuffing. Or if dining later, the Cornish hake with braised butter beans is simply sublime. Don’t miss out on dessert either; there is a delicious spiced panacotta with cherries soaked in sloe gin that is begging to be sampled. Without a doubt, this charming boutique inn has a bright future ahead of it; the Still family have really added charm, panache, and a rustic elegance to the Methuen Arms to make it a great local and superb destination. Joyeux Noel!
2 High Street Corsham Wiltshire SN13 0HB 01249 717060 www.themethuenarms.com
Hotel du Vin Cheltenham
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hristmas and New Year can get complicated. This year make it simple. Whether with relatives, friends old and new, or colleagues, get together at Hotel du Vin, Cheltenham and allow them to pour you a great glass of wine as you relax and enjoy simple classic food complemented by their unique style of hospitality. Whether you’re dining in the trademark bistro or private events rooms, Head Chef Paul Mottram has put together fine festive menus, using only the best produce that Gloucestershire has to offer. On the menu you’ll find local heroes such as Madgett's Farm Poultry and the Gloucester Old Spot pigs of Martin Gilder. Part of Hotel du Vin’s philosophy is ‘Homegrown and Local’, and this is
brought to life by Paul as he seeks to delight and wow guests with his seasonal creations. Celebration menus from £35 to include three courses served with coffee and mince pies. Early bird celebration menus from £17.50 for two courses when dining before 6 December. After the party is over, unwind in one of the 49 timelessly-styled bedrooms and stunning suites, all featuring luxurious handsprung mattresses, fine Egyptian linen, deep baths and powerful drench showers, plasma TVs, DVDs and air conditioning. Looking for the secret to memorable get-togethers? The decision of where to dine and stay this festive season is simpler than ever. Think du Vin…
Hotel du Vin, Parabola Road, Cheltenham GL50 3AQ 01242 588450 www.hotelduvin.com/hotels/Cheltenham To make an enquiry, contact the hotel at events.cheltenham@hotelduvin.com
Loch Fyne
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rom humble beginnings as a tiny oyster shack, Bristol’s premier seafood restaurant has gone from strength to strength. Loch Fyne is lodged in ‘The Old Granary’; a converted historical building overlooking the river in the quaint, cobblestoned Old City quarter of the city. Fish lovers take note, as this restaurant is positively swimming with mouthwatering seasonal dishes. The à la carte menu features the Loch Fyne’s signature oysters, alongside an impressive array of other shellfish, as well as fresh fish and a choice of meat and vegetarian dishes. Alternatively, Loch Fyne will be offering a three-course Christmas party menu running throughout the
festive season, boasting such delicacies as succulent whole-baked seabass and a spiced apple tarte tatin. Loch Fyne are launching a wine bar on September 26, which is situated in the cellar of their restaurant. The room is drenched in character, with flagstone flooring, wooden tables and candelabra-esque wall lights. The cellar can be booked at no extra cost and is a lovely, cosy location for private functions and Christmas parties. The experience here is made complete by the staff; the waiters are friendly and attentive and their knowledge of the menu is impressive to say the least. This is a restaurant that provides a fyne dining experience for every visit.
The Old Granary, Queen Charlotte Street, Bristol BS1 4HQ 01179 307160 www.lochfyne-restaurants.com/restaurants/bristol 45
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ooking for a fun and frivolous bistro serving outstanding seasonal produce? Weary traveller, your search is over‌ High up in classy Kingsdown, within the heart of Bristol, is a warm and jovial venue that taps into the upbeat community vibe of the neighbourhood. The appropriately named Chin! Chin! is fast becoming well-known for delivering an astounding atmosphere that is matched only by the delectable array of dishes on offer.
As the festive season draws closer, there can be few places more perfectly suited for hosting your Christmas celebrations. Darren and his dedicated team cater to all your requirements, whether it be for an intimate family affair or a larger Christmas party. Revellers will be pleased to hear that Chin! Chin! are happy to host all variety of entertainment for your special night; be it a singer, comedian or a traditional quiz. Log fires and candlelit tables make for a relaxed and cosy evening, the dĂŠcor retaining period features and furnishings while being given a fresh, contemporary touch of flair. The Christmas menu is jam-packed with sumptuous, hearty fare; a local dab of beef brisket, slowly braised with port and plums and Yorkshire pudding is delicious, as are the Champagne Falmouth mussels. Desserts are tempting indeed, with a sublimely wicked chocolate and pistachio brownie topping the menu. At the bar are trained cocktail waiters, ready to give guests that extra-special flourish in their glass. The bar is licensed until 2.30am, so batten down the hatches and let the festivities ensue. Chin! Chin!
155 St Michael's Hill, High Kingsdown, Bristol BS2 8DB 0117 973 9393 www.chinchinbarkitchen.com
Chin Chin!
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Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.
With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month regular flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...
Serves 2 A wonderful flat fish from the seas of the South Coast, the plaice is in season right now. This has to be one of the simplest fish to recognise and tell if it’s fresh, as it has distinctive bright orange spots marking its grey skin – the brighter the orange the fresher the fish. The second thing to look at for freshness is the flesh, which should be snowy white… Pretty simple stuff. They stand out on the fish counter as if announcing their freshness and there is no hiding if they are not fresh from the sea, although beware of plaice that is already filleted and skinned on the counter, much harder to tell how fresh it is. This is a fish that is a winner with most people and versatile in the kitchen. Strangely, it’s rather overlooked in many of the smarter restaurants and more usually found battered in the chip shop, but on the plus side it’s a relatively inexpensive fish to buy in this country. When in season you will find that they are lovely and fat and perfect for crisping up in batter and serving with chips. Whenever we put them on the specials menu at RockFish with chips they sell out fast. Thinner fish are delicate and somehow more refined and will poach beautifully to soak up flavours like cider and thyme (like the recipe here), simple to cook and serve or pan fry with the skin on. As the skin is relatively smooth with no prickles it cooks to a beautiful crisp in the frying pan, under the grill or baked in a hot oven. Plaice is fabulous baked or grilled. To bake, heat your oven to max, smooth a little soft butter over the back of the fish and bake for 10-12 minutes. You can if you wish make a few slashes across the back of the fish and fill with some sprigs of thyme. To grill the fish, a little olive oil or butter can be smoothed over the back and placed under a hot grill until the skin bubbles and crisps (within two-three minutes). Finish the fish in a really hot oven for six-seven minutes. This way you’ll ensure you get a wonderful, moist cooking. ■
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Poached Plaice with Cider and Onions
Ingredients 25g butter A glug of olive oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves of garlic, crushed 500ml good quality dry cider 2 bay leaves 2 sprigs of fresh thyme 2 x 150g plaice fillets A small handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
Method 1 Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed pan and add the olive oil. Add the onions and cook slowly for 10-15 minutes so that they gently brown and melt but do not fry. Add the garlic, cider, bay leaves and thyme and simmer for 5-6 minutes. 2 Lift the fish fillets out and place them on a serving plate. Add the parsley to the pan, turn the heat up and reduce the liquid by a third. Season to taste. 3 Place a pile of onions on top of each piece of fish and spoon the remaining juices around. Alternatively, put the fish back into the pan and take the whole thing to the table.
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Š Mitch Tonks. RockFish Grill & Seafood Market Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill Recipe taken from The Aga Seafood Cookbook by Mitch Tonks published by Absolute Press. Photo credit Pete Cassidy 49
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the hare on the hill A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com
The Hare On The Hill 41 Thomas Street North Kingsdown Bristol BS2 8LXD 0117 908 1982 www.bathales.com 50
The pub industry is in trouble. There has been a headlong rush of pub companies becoming property investors, selling off perfectly viable community pubs for conversion to soulless residential dwellings, in one stroke depriving communities of the very soul that makes them worth inhabiting. It’s depressing, and it’s borne of misguided government legislation in the late 20th century when it was decreed that breweries couldn’t own too many pubs any more. If they owned too many pubs, the argument went, that gave them monopolistic power in selling their beer, and therefore deprived consumers of choice. So the breweries created pub companies that were not part of the brewery to get round the legislation. Except these new pub companies didn’t have a vested interest in protecting and developing the pub industry, so they just saw pubs as a financial commodity, worth more as ‘an exciting development of two-bed apartments’ than as a hub of the local community. Result? Drive for a mile or so in any direction from where you live and, unless you really are in the middle of nowhere, you will see at least one property that ten years ago was a pub but is now lost to the community forever.
But it’s not all doom and gloom. Amid the property-guzzling carnage, real or cask-conditioned ale has flourished, with more and more people from all walks of life learning to appreciate the variety of flavours and beer styles available. And those pubs with an eye on quality of product and service are actually doing better than ever, despite a shocking tax inequality against multi-national supermarkets. And, in a deliciously ironic twist, the best examples of pubs thriving in adversity are often those owned and/or operated by, you guessed it, the breweries. The Hare On The Hill is one such. Sitting on a street-corner on a handbraketestingly steep hill in Kingsdown, it’s set in an historic, residential part of Bristol, just beneath Freemantle Square, with its pretty Victorian facades. As you approach, there’s something wonderfully traditional about the glazed green tiling around the front, the simple wood-framed feature windows and a beautiful inlaid painting of the eponymous Lepus europaeus. And this gives a clue as to this unprepossessing pub’s appeal. Step inside and you begin to understand the Bath Ales brewery’s ethos about pubs,
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Raise a glass to... Bath Gem (4.1%) From Warmley in Bristol. Caramel is the first word that springs to mind. It’s that mid-brown, almost amber colouring and malty aroma. It’s a really clever brew too, because as you drink it it’s all fruit and hops and full of flavour, but then as you drain the last drop and utter a satisfied ‘aaah’, you sense a dryness in the mouth that sends you back for another.
and why making community pubs viable in these straitened economic times is very much a realistic aim. ‘Keep It Simple’ is certainly key, but the brewery hasn’t fallen into the trap that simple just means do the bare minimum and hope for the best. Arranged around a central bar area, this is pub minimalism at its delightful best. Bare floorboards throughout, and panelled banquette rests in a chocolate brown finish, as well as the banquettes around the edge, there are traditional red- cushioned stools and small, circular tables. The effect is a reassuring constancy, not too warm in summer, or too cold in the winter. It just feels like a pub should feel. Tucked away to the left, behind a kind of Victorian ‘demi-screen’ is a lovely little snug area. This is the place to sit if you really want to forget the rest of the world exists, and lose yourself in the delights of a simple pub. Up a single step to the rear is an additional drinking area, complete with dartboard and one of two televisions on which to watch breaking news or live sport. This is all kept pretty unobtrusive and certainly doesn’t impinge on the bustle of chatter. A key element of any good community pub is that you have to be able to sit down over a decent drink and put the
world to rights. My companion and I solved both the European Debt Crisis and Global Warming while we were there... Food is simple, pub grub fare, with the emphasis on deep-filled fresh sandwiches. Mine was ‘Wiltshire ham, stilton and wholegrain mustard’, which I confess I supplemented with a bowl of crisp, handcut chips. The hot beef chilli with rice and nachos is also rather good. To the drink: As well as the ‘usual suspects’ in terms of lager and sparkling cider (Bath’s own ‘Bounders’ is a particularly good example of the latter), there is a large selection of bottled European beers and a bewildering array of malt whiskies. On the pump you can expect to see the Bath range, with Gem, Barnstormer and SPA the most regular, but frequent visits from seasonal guests such as Wild Hare, Rare Hare and Festivity also feature. On my visit I sampled the Barnstormer, as it is less ubiquitous than its rightly-famed stablemate Gem. As you’d expect it was in tip-top condition, with a cleanness to the palate that spoke of simpler times. The best way for pubs to thrive is to deliver what the community needs; a clean,
Bath Barnstormer (4.5%) My favourite Bath beer. The mix between malt, fruit and hops that you get with most Bath beers is certainly there. But this is a little darker, with just a smidge of roastiness. It’s like the first tentative step towards the warming ales of winter. Or maybe that’s just the Quality Street toffee penny flavour you get as you drink it.
Bath SPA (3.7%) If there were such a word as ‘quaffy’, then the dictionary definition might well refer to Bath SPA. It’s a real ‘session’ bitter. It has the golden colouring of autumnal horse chestnut leaves, a real hint of lemon drops from a sweet shop jar, and yet a bitterness and dry finish that sets you up nicely for another.
convivial and safe place to enjoy a drink and a bite, catch up with friends and not get harangued by gimmicks, bangles and baubles. The Hare On The Hill, with its attentive, friendly staff, demonstrates how running a pub isn’t rocket science, it’s about doing the simple things well. 51
NEotWRe!uben
e H
t r-Mois , Su p e e f le y t S o rk lt Be New Y elicious Sa h &D ic w d San
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ne of the artisan charcuteries in Bristol, and the only one in the Gloucester Road area, with a Deli open 7 days a week.
Large variety of traditional & special home made Cold Cuts, Pickled, Cured Fish & Sea Food: Salt beef, Salmon Gravlax, French Duck Rillette, Jambon De Paris, Italian Porketta with different fillings, Pâté De Campagane & Pâté Foie... All handmade in our shop, with new varieties of meats on a weekly basis... Sit-in menu, take away food & e Daily Meal Sandwich Menu
e Daily Meal • 18 Gloucester road, Bishopston, BS7 8AE • Tel: 07791862563 Opening hours: Monday-Friday 9:00-18:00 • Saturday 9:00-17:30 • Sunday 11:00-16:00
Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.
the chilean
wine experience...
A vineyard in Montegrande, an Andean mountain village in the Elqui Valley, Chile.
> flavour clare morris
et’s face it, the Chileans had a pretty bad year last year. Incredibly, this time last year 33 miners were still trapped underground, awaiting their rescue which wouldn’t be until mid-October. The huge earthquakes which struck the country in February and March 2010 tragically destroyed lives and homes, but also much of Chile’s exports. Many thousands of cases and barrels of wine were lost from the 2009 harvest which represent a crucial part of the country’s economy.
L
Thankfully the Chilean wine market has a good enough reputation these days that will ensure its full recovery over time. Long gone are the days of Chilean wines occupying ‘house’ slots alone, and they are increasingly producing award winners in a range of styles and price points. The miners missed out on celebrating their national day on September 18, which marks Chilean independence from Spain since 1810. I’m willing to bet that they, along with the winemakers, will be toasting a more successful year this time round. Why don’t we join them in a glass this month? I’ve chosen some wines which you might not expect to come from Chile. When we think of South American wines we think of hot, baked grapes with concentrated fruit and high alcohol. However the beauty of Chile’s diverse climate and topography means that a whole range of grapes can be grown in their most suitable habitat – whether low or high altitude, cool or warm. Here’s a couple of wines that love the cooler climates available.
Veramonte Pinot Noir Reserva
Cono Sur Single Block Vision Gewurztraminer, Casablanca Valley
is a great example of one of Chile’s growing hero wines. The Casablanca Valley is also gaining a great reputation for Pinot Noir as its cool temperatures allow a long and steady ripening period. This grape is known as the diva of the wine world because it’s so difficult to grow. Cherry and strawberry flavours dominate here with a silky finish – versatile enough to cut through rich pork and poultry dishes but also to partner vegetable concoctions. Just don’t try with venison! There’s a great range of options to try at the Duke of Cambridge in Farnham, hidden away amongst the pine trees of Tilford Wood, where you’ll find local and seasonal produce in abundance. In all fairness you can’t go wrong with the excellent sausage and mash here, although chicken stuffed with gorgonzola and wrapped in Parma ham would be equally hard to refuse.
Gewurztraminer. From Germany and the Alsace, right? Surprisingly Chile Casablanca Valley is making a name for itself in this most fabulous of aromatic grapes. Cono Sur’s Single Block Vision Gewurztraminer has it all – lemon, lime, rose petal, violet, pear and lychee. Phew! A complex wine but pair it with the right food and it’s utterly divine. You’ll find some incredibly good food matches at the Mendip Inn in Oakhill, just outside Bath. The team comes from a mixture of Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant and Rugantino Restaurant at Ancient Gatehouse - so the credentials speak for themselves. Gewurztraminer is great with cheese, spicy options and fish dishes due to its perfume, acidity and fruit flavours. Try the seared scallops and black tailed prawns to start, followed by goats’ cheese ravioli. One of the desserts even contains Gewurztraminer crystals – surely an excuse for another glass?!
www.dukeofcambridgetilford.co.uk
www.dukeofcambridgetilford.co.uk 55
CHRISTMAS PARTY MENU 2 Courses £20 ~ 3 Courses £25 Starters Smoked Haddock Soufflé wrapped in smoked salmon with a lemon and cream sauce Homemade spiced Butternut squash soup with a warm rustic roll and butter Sautéed Garlic & Horseradish Mushrooms In a filo tart with parmesan shavings
NEW YEARS EVE PARTY £40 per person Starters Spiced Parsnip soup with a warm crusty roll & butter Trio of tomatoes Tomato, mozzarella & pesto tart & tomato mousse with a shot of bloody Mary Crab Risotto Foie Gras terrine with brioche toast
Homemade Chicken Liver Pate served with warm toast & homemade caramelised onion marmalade
Main Course Roast Turkey BreastBacon wrapped stuffing, sausage, roast gravy Steak and Ale pie with puff pastry Fillet of Cornish Sea Bass with a roasted tomato sauce Slowly Roasted belly of Wiltshire Pork and crispy crackling Oven roasted Ratatouille and Mozzarella Strudel with a pesto sauce All served with seasonal vegetables, roast & new potatoes
Desserts
Main Course Roast Guinea Fowl breast with parsnip crisps and red wine sauce Slowly roasted belly of Pork with apple & cider sauce, crispy crackling and sage and onion rings Braised Wiltshire Fillet of Beef with shallots & red wine sauce Roast Loch Duart Salmon with Crayfish and a lemon & chive butter sauce Oven roasted Ratatouille and Mozzarella Strudel with a pesto sauce All served with braised red cabbage, dauphinoise potatoes & glazed baby carrots.
Desserts
Traditional Christmas pudding with brandy sauce Rich Chocolate cake with white chocolate ice cream Mulled plum crème brulee Mulled plums with set Vanilla cream topped with glazed caramelised sugar
Spiced Apple cake with Calvados ice cream Vanilla Panna Cotta with a mulled fruit compote
Raspberry Pavlova Sundae Raspberry ice cream, meringue pieces, raspberry coulis whipped cream
Classic Sherry Trifle Selection of local Cheese & Biscuits
Triple chocolate cheesecake Dark chocolate biscuit base, white & milk chocolate filling Selection of Cheese & Biscuits with homemade red onion chutney
Coffee & Chocolates
Dress Code: Smart DJ & Dancing till 1am
Tea & Coffee A discretionary 10% gratuity will be added to parties of 10 and over.
Payment in full for New Years Eve is required by the 28th December 2011
Biddestone Arms • The Green • Biddestone • Nr Chippenham • Wiltshire • SP14 7DG Tel: 01249 714377 • www.biddestonearms.co.uk
drops by flavour
seasons Britain’s first ‘chef-to-shop’ experience opened in Wiltshire earlier this summer, alongside award-winning country pub The Tollgate Inn, at Holt, and has gone from strength to strength as a deli, café and, as of this month, Saturday morning cookery sessions. The brainchild of owners chef Alex Venables (who earned a Michelin star while at Lucknam Park) and Alison Ward-Baptiste, Seasons, the ‘cooks’ country store’, focuses on the best of local produce combined with food, ingredients and recipes from The Tollgate itself. “We had an empty barn and I thought ‘let’s open a shop’,” says Alison. “Holt has one convenience store and no fresh food outlets, so it just made sense to have a deli that offers fresh, local produce that showcases the long list of suppliers we have right here on our doorstep.”
Outside the shop there are fresh pears, damsons and carrots, all hand-delivered by local growers and producers and sold with price comparisons against leading supermarkets – it makes healthy and refreshing reading too. Oh, you’ll have company with some very free-range and confident hens out here too! Inside, the meat and fish counters are well stocked with all you would expect of a deli, but there’s more: with the Tollgate kitchens but a stone’s throw away, there are freshly-prepared beef Wellingtons (Alex’s renowned dish with 8oz fillet steak and mushroom pâté), chicken Kievs, potted shrimps, terrines and oodles more besides.
the ‘goodie bags’ as well, made up to order in the kitchen and ready within the hour. Seasons, in just a few months, is already standing on its own feet and paying its way, but not at the expense of customers and certainly to the benefit of local villagers, farmers, growers and producers, many of whom have now found a welcome route to market.
“The pub complements the shop as the shop complements the pub,” says Alison. “Customers can come and have lunch at the Tollgate and then nip through the car park to pick up goodies to take home – it works brilliantly. What we don’t sell in the shop can be used in the restaurant’s kitchens and as such we have very little waste.” Alongside this ‘deli on the doorstep’, Alex offers his professional advice on the best of the day’s catch, cookery demonstrations, tasting sessions and wine matches. In October, the demonstration will highlight how to pluck, prepare and cook game, while in November it’s the turn of terrines and chutneys for Christmas. Look out for
The Tollgate Inn Ham Green Holt BA14 6PX 01225 782326 www.tollgateholt.co.uk 57
58
> flavour chef profile
chef profile Name: Tom Woods Originally from: Devon Head chefs at: Dart Marina Hotel & Spa
When I took over as Head Chef at Dart Marina one of my aims was to start training a team from apprentice up – giving all staff areas of responsibility and then, just when they are getting comfortable, move them to a different area. It keeps everyone on the ball and always learning something new. I think that has helped us see very few staff leave which has enabled me to promote from within and avoid complacency in the kitchen. Training is important in building a stronger team. My first proper job was as a dishwasher in a hotel in Fremantle, Australia, and I looked at the chefs and thought ‘I could do that’! My cooking is simple and uncomplicated, matching flavours and using quality ingredients (which doesn’t mean expensive if plentiful and in season). I believe you also need to change to meet your customers’ requirements and we do that here at Dart Marina as and when necessary. I have a group of excellent suppliers – who are always looking to provide fresh produce for me to work with. I try to include my whole brigade when looking at new dishes. So it’s not me sitting in my office writing menus, it’s my chefs trying something and an idea growing from there. I’m working to try and keep everything as seasonal as possible and that’s my biggest aim for the coming year. If you ask most chefs I think they all enjoy cooking fish/seafood and I am no exception. Living and working in the South Hams allows me to be able to get the freshest fish and shellfish – I also enjoy a spot of fishing along with my boys, Toby and Ben, and Grandpa – mainly bass, mackerel and pollock. We have a little boat in Salcombe and four crab pots so this time of year we have our own (small) supply of crab – which is probably the best in the world.
I don’t think food has hit a peak just yet, it will continue to evolve. I think we will find ourselves going full circle – back to basics and back to buying and selling local produce in season and I think the guys who can then put their twist on it will be at the forefront. I really admire Rick Stein for his longevity, Jamie Oliver and more recently Nathan Outlaw, all of whom would, I’m sure, cook something stunning for me. However, if I had to have one person cook me a meal it would be my mum. She is a wonderful cook and her Polish cheesecake is out of this world. We would have a couple of pints at my dad’s local, the Dolphin, and then come home for a family meal – what could be better? Dart Marina is a special place to work. It’s in an outstanding position and the team I have behind me is great, but it’s my family that keeps me sane and they help me keep my feet on the ground. I’ve seen loads of guys (really good chefs) just put their whole lives into their work. They’ve been successful but have either burnt out or have broken relationships. Getting positive feedback from staff and customers keeps me wanting to strive for the better and that’s something that’s always important to me. ■
Dart Marina Sandquay Road Dartmouth Devon TQ6 9PH 01803 832580 www.dartmarina.com 59
Rosemary Restaurant Japenese Sunday Buffet Lunch ‘All you can eat’ dinner on Thursdays Japanese à la carte menu
Stanton House Hotel The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD
Tel. 0870 084 1388 ~ restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk
www.stantonhouse.co.uk
> flavour martin blunos
back to basics As the survival of the traditional pub continues to face an uphill battle, Martin Blunos gathers steam and gets us back to basics… It’s another hectic month over and I’m already getting stuck into, you guessed it, another hectic month; judging at Frome Cheese Show, food demonstrations at Goodwood Revival and at the BBC Good Food show to name a few. During the little down time I do have it’s nice to relax over a pint and a bite to eat in the pub. The good old British pub is in decline -– they are closing down at the rate of knots – and to survive many are upping the anti with their food offering, and the ones that are, are still in business. Good for them and even better for us. Pubs have always sold something to ‘fill the gap’ whether it be a packet of crisps, a ploughman’s or roast beef lunch. Nowadays, pubs are being awarded Michelin stars for their food. Many are being called gastro pubs, in my eyes two words that don’t really sit together.
Another saying that gets my hackles rising is ‘fine dining’ as in “we popped along to this amazing fine dining pub”, after all, isn’t all good food fine? I’m involved with a couple of pub projects and am really enjoying the experience, it’s a blast working menus that encompass everything from doorstep sarnies, faggots ‘n’ peas to pot roast grouse. I’ve also noticed that folk are really up for good, simple and honest dishes. It makes sense not to stray far from family favourites and instead just give them a twist.
blunos’ beer batter Ingrediants 180 grams plain flour 30 grams fresh yeast 5 ml balsamic vinegar 250 ml beer (lager) A pinch of salt A pinch of caster sugar
This twist can be as simple as buying a better sausage for the toad in the hole with onion gravy, or adding a good splash of vinegar with the butter when finishing the mushy peas to serve with the beer battered fish and chips.
Method
This month’s recipe with a twist is for my beer batter – it works well with fish and also with vegetable fritters – anything that can be deep fried. Don’t worry about the alcohol in the lager as that will evaporate on cooking and all that will remain will be the flavour. Oh the twist – it’s the balsamic; not only the trace of flavour it imparts, but the acidity it contains permeates the batter as it cooks to help crispness. Enjoy..!
2 Sieve flour over liquid, beat until smooth and creamy. Place in ambient place for at least 45 minutes before using.
1 Dissolve yeast in beer adding salt, sugar and balsamic – do this in a large mixing bowl.
3 Use vegetable oil at 180°C for frying.
One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 61
> flavour restaurant fifty
restaurant
fifty Restaurant Fifty, in Bristol, has had its doors open for just a couple of months and is already firmly on the map for the Clifton set, but it’s now beginning to attract plenty of interest from further afield too. After 10 years on the Island of Islay off the west coast of Scotland, followed by five years on Alderney, Scott Chance has brought his 33 years of fine dining experience to the mainland. With his wife Wendy, they teamed up with exciting new culinary talent Dany Lancaster and together have developed a great new dining experience. Traditionally-trained Scott has added his years of industry knowledge to Dany’s youthful flair and they have created a modern British menu that showcases each of their talents perfectly. As you would expect, they source their produce locally and, along with Romanian maître de and sommelier Mihai, they have a wine list that would grace many a high table.
50 Princess Victoria Street Clifton BS8 4BZ 01179 733711 www.restaurantfifty.co.uk 62
Restaurant Fifty has room for 32 covers so it is cosy, but the high celings and open-plan kitchen make it feel as though you have space aplenty. “The décor is an ongoing work in progress,” Scott says. “We wanted to get people in through the doors as soon as we could so we are looking to make changes here and there. The best thing in my opinion is having the kitchen so open to the customer. We have had people coming up to
the hatch and thanking us which is really nice and definitely appreciated.” An early evening menu, available before 7.30pm, is great value at £12.50 for two courses or £15 for three courses, while the à la carte offerings come in at a reasonable price tag too. Expect delights such as Brixham fish stew, salmon mi-cuit with potted shrimps or fresh crabmeat and scallops to feature as starters, and for mains you’ll find wild rabbit, smoked slow-cooked local beef or a fillet of sea bass delighting your plate. Scott has been cooking from an early age and has worked his way up to realise his dream of owning and running a high-end restaurant in the busy and vibrant environment of Clifton. He now has the opportunity to make his mark and stake his claim, an opportunity we’re sure he won’t miss. But, Scott is right, this is an ‘ongoing work in progress’, and he will need his commitment and enthusiasm along with the backing of his team, to ensure Fifty stands out in this competitive market. All the ingredients are there to make it work, now it’s just down to word of mouth, the best friend to any business.
Restaurant Fifty has room for 32 covers so it is cozy, but the high celings and open-plan kitchen make it feel as though you have space aplenty.
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> flavour
hotel choice
the
greenway spa hotel
a
t the The Greenway Spa Hotel, it’s all about having the best of both worlds. Nestled deep within the lovely Cotswold Hills, this stunning Elizabethan manor is nevertheless only minutes from the picturesque spa town of Cheltenham, and its racecourse. The décor is a unique blend of the traditional country manor, and stylish London townhouse opulence. All the rooms are thoughtfully decorated by their interior designer, and combine original wooden furniture with feather-soft mattresses and tastefully vibrant soft furnishings, making for a most comfortable place of sweet repose. If you’re after a relaxing spell in a luxurious countryside retreat, the Greenway Spa has everything you could want-and more. Their new Elan Spa is nothing less than state-of-the-art, and comes complete with a Champagne nail bar, hydrotherapy pool, bubbly al fresco hot tub and a whole range of
sumptuous treatments to suit guests, members, or simply anybody who fancies a day of absolute leisure against the backdrop of the beautiful countryside. Fantastic for foodies too, the Greenway boasts a two AA rosette fine dining experience, focusing on locally sourced seasonal produce prepared with flair and finesse by Head Chef Robin Dudley and his dedicated team, who also offer a more informal bite to eat in the stylish all day Brasserie. The manor and its landscaped surroundings are perfect for any event, meeting or function, including weddings and civil partnerships. Whether it be a lavish cocktail party, or an intimate feast for two, a real effort is made to tailor the occasion to the requirements of each guest. This treasure of the Cotswolds truly offers an idyllic experience in modern luxury country living.
The Greenway Spa Hotel, Shurdington, Cheltenham, GL51 4UG ~ 01242 862352 ~ www.thegreenway.co.uk
> flavour siân blunos
Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.
Well, I think we’ve had a few days that resemble summer, however, whatever the weather we are always looking for healthy new ideas for feeding the family. Optimum nutrition is giving yourself and your family the best possible intake of nutrients to allow the body to be as healthy as possible and to enable it to work as well as it can. A well-balanced diet should provide us with protein, fibre, carbohydrates, healthy fats, important vitamins and minerals. Heart disease, high blood pressure, obesity and diabetes can be the result of a bad diet. We are surrounded by so much choice; supermarkets importing fresh food from around the world, farmers’ markets offering local produce and people growing their own fruit and vegetables, yet we are still overwhelmed with cheap convenience foods. We all lead busy lives, but we don’t have to spend hours in the kitchen to produce a healthy, nutritious meal. The brightly coloured, artificial flavours and E numbers in some of our convenience foods are made from cheap ingredients, taste of nothing and look awful. They are full of additives to try to make them taste and look better and many are designed to appeal to children. On a recent visit to Cornwall I was horrified to see bright blue clotted cream ice cream – why spoil such a beautiful product? It’s not just the concern about the poor nutritional content of these foods, it’s the effects of these synthetic additives in our diets. Children are more vulnerable than adults due to the fact that their immune systems and excretory systems are less developed. Studies have linked additives with negative effects on children’s behaviour and the cause of hyperactivity
know healthy
food and temper tantrums – some additives prevent the body absorbing all important nutrients. We all know that high sugar and salt content will lead to problems in later life, while such large amounts of additive-laden foods also have an effect on children’s sense of taste and appreciation of food. If they get used to strong and artificial flavours I think they lose their sense of subtlety and are unable to experience delicate flavours, textures and freshness of foods. It’s what we give our children early on that builds the foundations of their eating habits of the future. This dish is so easy. Once you have all the ingredients together, simply put it in the oven and it’s great for all the family.
Cooking for Coco Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.
To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com
Oven-baked chicken with lemon and rosemary Makes 6-8 portions Ingredients 3 medium potatoes for mash 1 medium carrot, diced 2 chicken legs, skinned 1 sprig of rosemary 1 small onion, chopped ½ pint of unsalted chicken stock Juice of ½ small lemon Method 1 Prepare the potato mash and set aside. 2 In a saucepan, cook the carrot for about 12 minutes until tender and then drain in a colander. 3 Preheat the oven to 170°C 4 Put the chicken in an ovenproof pan with the rosemary and onion. Add the stock, bring to the boil and cover. Transfer to the oven and cook for about 40 minutes or until the chicken is tender. 5 leave to cool in the pan and then strain the chicken over a bowl, reserving the liquid. 6 Take the meat off the bone and put into a food processor with the lemon juice, onion and carrots. Blend, leaving it chunkier for older children. Add to the mashed potato. 65
> flavour nick harman
the sweet smell of nothing This month Nick Harman finds out why his senses are no longer being tickled... What happened to food aromas? Not the ones they talk about in those TV commercials badly-dubbed from the original German; the ones where a blonde yummy mummy stalks her family with an aerosol, spraying furniture, teen trainers and pets alike to ‘remove lingering odours’.
The sense of smell as much as sight, prepares us for a meal.
No, I mean the smells that used to greet you when you walked into a restaurant, the ones that got your tummy rumbling and the gastric juices going. These days walk into any top level London restaurant with your eyes closed and you might well think you were in an office block or dry-cleaners. Of course the powerful extraction hoods in the kitchen are partly to blame. They suck so hard that chefs’ aprons flap up like chorus girls’ skirts every time they walk past, and while extractors may make the kitchen a bearable work place they kill the atmosphere in the main room.
Nick Harman is editor of
Supermarkets employ a system that sends the bakery smells down pipes to appear at the front door, thus luring in the punters. Well the better ones do anyway, the ‘pile ’em high, sell ’em cheap’ places don’t bother with such psy-warfare, the prices do the luring for them. They could perhaps pump the smell of cheap lager, as that seems the most popular choice among customers.
www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year. 66
Why don’t restaurants do something similar? A vent over the front door wafting garlic out into the street would surely get diners queuing up in no time, their noses in the air like the Bisto kids.
The terrible thing is that even if they did do that, the dishes served inside all too often have no aroma anyway. The times I’ve bent down until my nose is buried in the plate to try and detect some olfactory clue are legion. Yes I am the man over at the corner table apparently about to snort his meal like a gastro Keith Richards. The sense of smell as much as sight, prepares us for a meal. A perfect work of art on the plate with no aroma is about as stimulating as looking at a picture of the dish. Heston Blumenthal famously employed a perfume atomiser to spray fish and chip shop smells around the diner in order to enhance the pleasure of the food. The vinegar from the pickled onion jar apparently was the key ingredient. Not a bad idea, but surely it would be better to simply make the food smell enticing in the first place? No such problems at Galvin Bistro in Marylebone. There the smell of great food hits you straight away. So much so you can’t wait to get to the table and get stuck in. Maybe that’s why we are being besieged by so many new bistros; they aren’t gastro temples of tat, they’re places that you go to eat in again and again where food is fun and part of a social experience. It’s time to celebrate smell again and give the elbow to sterile plates of food fit to be nothing more than pictures on a wall. Wake up and smell the garlic!
Ma spec king ia even l days m spec ore ial!
ENJOY FINE DINING
AT T H E P E R F E C T V E N U E The Antrobus Arms Hotel An original listed 17th Century Coaching Inn set in the ancient town of Amesbury a stones throw away from Stonehenge and nearby Salisbury. The Hotel boasts 21 individually styled en-suite rooms one of which is our Beatles Suite where the fab 4 (The Beatles) stayed while they were filming 'Help' on Salisbury Plain.
The Antrobus Arms Hotel • Church Street • Amesbury • Salisbury • Wiltshire • SP4 7EU Tel: 01980 623163 • Fax: 01980 622112 • enquiries@antrobusarmshotel.co.uk www.antrobusarmshotel.co.uk
E
Exclusively yours for your perfect day... For private functions from Weddings and Receptions to Birthday Parties the house is exclusively yours for the duration. We try to be as flexible as possible so whether you want tea and cakes on the lawn or a live band in the Orchard Suite, the house and grounds are available for you and your guests to use however you wish. It's your day so we want to create an event that is as individual as you are.
Ruishton, Taunton TA3 5LU Telephone 01823 444955 ~ info@woodlandscastle.co.uk www.woodlandscastle.co.uk