Accra Culture Capsule (Alpha Issue)

YOU R GU I DE TO ACCR A’S C U LT U R AL CALEN DA R

EX T R AORDI NA RY SOJOU R NS ACROSS T I ME A L P H A I SSU E

February Event Highlights see calendar | phreak out | fokn bois.

March Event Highlights elnathan john | Atongo zimba | fatoumata diawara

April Events Highlight adomaa launches afraba at alliance

“resplendent in the glow of kerosene torches and smiling vendors, a place of sensory wonder” OSU NIGHT MARKET, BASEL STREET

ACCRA CCRA CUL CULTURE TURE A C A P S U L E

Editorial One may ask, what defines the Cultural essence of Accra? We say many things. The mix and match of people are Accra, the food is Accra, the laughter, the loud arguments at the taxi rank, cars honking and frantic bargaining at every corner, the smell of sweat that rides the air... All these things are Accra. For this issue, I got to spend some time hanging out with the traders at Osu Night Market and had the best time in a long time.

Delali at Osu Night Market The idea behind the Accra Culture Capsule is to give you an advance quarterly guide and unveil the different parts of Accra that we believe contribute to what Accra is. The fun nights at popular pubs, the late bargaining at the night markets, the fusion of tongues and cultures that have settled and made Accra their home, the events that showcase the incredible artists that express the Accra vibe through their craft. These are what we want to show the world. Beyond these everyday joys, we will be looking back too; in each issue we will have a chapter from a book that features Accra in its pages – in this issue it’s from Ama Ata Aidoo’s wonderful 1991 novel, Changes; we also have Quarter/Quarter, a section that looks at what was happening in culture in the same quarter twenty-five years ago.

So this is our first issue; we are giving just a little hint, a small peek into the beautiful mystery that Accra is. We hope that you will stick with us through many more issues, for as long as Accra evolves, we will have its magic to share with you. Let’s go places together, clad in evening gowns or kaba, tsale wote or heels. Let’s explore the parts of Accra you have not yet discovered and reconnect with the gems you have forgotten.

Welcome to Accra.

CONTRIBUTORS

DQ

Delali Quarshie

Ayikwei Parkes

Editor

Commissioning Editor

A lifelong Accra resident, Delali has seen the culture and architecture of Accra shift and change over the years. A graduate of the University of Ghana with a degree in English, she is often in tune with new trends and places, but still finds Accra most beautiful at night; not because of the dazzling lights, but because of the simple things – the people, the sounds, and rush of life coursing through the streets of Accra. When not working or tweeting, Delali loves the comfort of her couch and TV, getting all her emotions up and awry with a telenovela because, after all, life is no fun without some drama.

North Kaneshie raised and Achimota educated, Nii Ayikwei Parkes is Accra rooted. Even, his Sierra Leonean and Scottish ancestors set up camp in Jamestown. His favourite Accra buildings are the George Padmore Library and the sinfully underused National Theatre. Nii Ayikwei’s personal indulgence is a couple of hours of sleep on the beaches of Accra, which he says are worth ten hours sleep anywhere else in the world.

OTHER Contributors Kenneth Attoh flickr/okileoinkile bbnqstylz.wordpress. com Koo Nimo Photographer Hector Peterssen (flickr/ africanfuturist) Editorial Interns

ACCRA CULTURE C A P S U L E

CONTENTS Regulars ACCRA CHAPTER

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An excerpt from a work of fiction that features Accra.

Our inaugural chapter is from Changes by Ama Ata Aidoo, Ghana’s globally celebrated writer, activist, thinker and former education minister.

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“

“Traditionally, the traders used what they called

COMMUNITIES

In this first issue, we have an overview of the communities that have become part of Accra’s fabric but originally settled as migrants. In subsequent issues we will feature specific communities and look at their role in the making of today’s Accra.

QUARTER/ QUARTER

Osu Night Market, resplendent in the glow of kerosene torches and smiling vendors, is a place of sensory wonder that rarely fails to deliver.

La Paillote Takpekpe

PHOTO FEATURE

Osu Night through lens.

Market

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globalwomen’s day

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8March

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February

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ATONGO Zimba at +233

elnathan John

March offers much to celebrate. Unquestionably the month for Francophony in Accra, there are lots of events at Alliance française in the Roman Ridge area

Looking back a quarter of a century, this photo & text feature highlights a Ghanaian cultural landmark from the same quarter 25 years ago. The feature for February to April 2016 is Egya Koo Nimo.

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‘Bobo’ lamps”

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adomaa

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vodafone

Ghana Music Awards

la paillote takpekpe

April’s all about music: Adomaa’s first concert for the Afraba EP & the Vodafone Ghana Music Awards

Denizens

A Communities Feature

Accra

is the true definition of a cosmopolis. The city has, over decades, embraced many different cultures and people that have become integral to its essence, while maintaining its unique native qualities. Even the dance for which the city is best known, Kpanlogo, while based on traditional Ga moves and music, incorporates elements of rock and roll show dancing and the twist – a perfect mirror of how Accra continues to reinvent itself. A city in the smallest region in Ghana, it is the most populated. It has always been the preferred destination or transit point for migration; whether internal, with locals from the rural areas moving towards the capital city in hopes of fashioning a better life, or external, as Accra is the first stop many expatriates make before moving to other parts of Ghana.

Well before the early European arrivals such as the Portuguese and Dutch, Mossi, Hausa, Fulani and Arab merchants arrived to trade in notable markets. It is perhaps more because of these early interactions with Islam-practising merchants, than the existence of a largely Muslim Hausa settlement at Nima, that the religion has a relatively high penetration among the Ga compared to other southern Ghanaian ethnicities. The second wave of migrations happened during and soon after the European trading and colonial periods; Portuguese, Danish and Dutch traders had local wives and left their names and influences in the local population. Names like Vanderpuije are considered native names in Accra (especially near Osu) and it is no coincidence that the Ga name for onions, sabolai is so close to the Portuguese cebola. The colonial period saw British men from poorer families – mainly non-English families from Wales and Scotland – signing up to work in the colonies and, finding their lives away from their European homes better, settling. Jamestown in Accra produced the musician King Bruce (of Scottish extraction) and legendary footballer Arthur Wharton (of Welsh origin).

One of the oldest communities still markedly visible in Accra, the Lebanese

community, first arrived towards the end of the colonial era in 1884 and have been growing since. They are more or less a fully integrated community, much like the Tabom people, originally slaves who had bought their freedom from Brazil. The Tabom arrived along the shores of Jamestown in the late nineteenth century, and were gifted land by the local chief. They quickly established themselves as knowledgeable agriculturists and craftsmen, establishing the first family tailoring businesses, with the most famous, the Mortons, still in existence.

Trivia: Do you know which famous Ghanaian boxer is a descendant of the Afro-Brazilian settlers in Accra?

There are over 17 major migrant communities from outside Ghana that have settled in Accra, including the Italian, Yoruba, Ukranian, South African, Chinese, British, Filipino, German, French, North American, and more recently the Korean community.

From within present-day Ghana, the Akan, Ewe and Guan communities have had significant settlements and marital ties with Accra since the sixteenth century. The influx of many cultures into Accra, each with its own distinctive and fascinating approaches to life, lends a dynamism to the city. The varied tastes

and interests, the mix of ideologies that all remain rooted in a sense of patriotic love for the city have been the solid rock that Accra has stood on for decades.

Fact: Day names like Kosi from the Ewe and Kwashi from the Ga were derived originally from the Akan language equivalent of Kwasi.

The contribution of these communities to the current cultural scene of Accra is what we will be celebrating in this quarterly Communities Feature. We will be exploring how their presence has affected how we eat, dress, dance and bury our dead in Accra. Looking at our current cultural scene, one can already see the seeds of what this section will be exploring: The owners of The Republic Bar and Grill for example, Kofi and Raja Owusu-Ansah are half Indian-half Ghanaian brothers who quit their jobs to create the groundbreaking night life venue, talented musical siblings Wanlov the Kuborlor and Sister Deborah are of Bulgarian descent, actress Nikki Samonas is of Greek and Ghanaian parentage and our very own editor, Delali, was born to a Ghanaian mother and a Togolese father. Indeed, one in every three families in Accra has an extension of the family from a different culture or ethnicity. Accra is the marvel it is because of the diversity of its people; let’s celebrate it!

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture 5

See Calendar Two of Ghana’s Spo­ ken Word pioneers, Mutombo Da Poet and Yibor Kojo Yibor of the Ehalakasa Movement, bring us the first edition of See Calendar, featuring award winning song writer and poet Kacey Moore.

The launch of See Calendar promises to be more than just entertainment, the event hopes to inspire a spark of concern among the audience to look around them, to look deep into themselves and around the environment and find the topics that pull at their heart most, to find the hidden truths in their surroundings.

The featured guest, Kacey Moore, is an awardwinning song writer and poet, who has performed widely, including a show for the late Nelson Mandela of South Africa.

ry a u br

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What’s the Concept?

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WHERE? MMOFRA PLACE, NEXT TO MARVEL’S MINI GOLF CENTER, ABELENKPE WHEN? 13TH FEBRUARY 2016 AT 6PM COST? 20 GHC

The concept behind See Calendar is the notion that anything that has happened, anything that is happening or anything that will happen can be referenced to the Calendar. All the topics that inspire the poems or music featured at the event will be related to time.

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture

For the lovers and enthusiasts of art, the Nubuke Foundation presents Yiwarra Kuju, an Australian Indigenous art exhibition. According to the curators, they have used “‘one road’ to bind the art, people and story of the Western Desert together, the Canning Stock Route as the meeting point and cross-cultural scaffolding on which to develop an understanding of Aboriginal Country, and the shared history that happened within it.

Where? Nubuke Foundation When? During Opening Hours Cost? FREE All February: Shattered Lives [FILM] (Original Première date 30th January)

Directed by Okechukwu Onyeka, Shattered Lives is about love, deceit, violence and infidelity, an intense drama packed story that stars some of the biggest names in the Ghana Movie scene; Majid Michel, Martha Ankomah, and also features popular musicians Shatta Wale and Bisa Kdei.

Where? Silverbird Cinemas, Accra Mall and West Hills Mall When? See Cinema Schedules Cost? Set by each Cinema 3 to 9 February 2016: Don’t Call Me Beautiful [EXHIBITION] rd

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“I cannot think of a significant life moment, I have had, that didn’t involve some woman. These photographs are both a song in celebration of the African woman, and a criticism of how our societies deliberately impede their every movement.” This is Nana Kofi Acquah’s artist statement.

Where? Alliance Française Exhibition Hall When? 10am – 5pm Cost? FREE

Love Brewed in an African Pot12-14th February 2016 [GET AWAY]

This month of love, African Regent offers wonderful Valentine packages for you and that special someone.

Where? The African Regent Hotel.

When? All day Cost? Different rates apply for each package. For reservations call + 233 (0)302 765180-2.

13th February 2016: Movie Release: No Man’s Land [FILM]

From the first time actress turned producer Salma Mumin, and directed by Pascal Amanfo, No Man’s Land stars Adjetey Annan, Nikki Samonas, Deyemi Okalawon, Doris Sackitey and multiple award winning musician Wiyaala.

Where? Silverbird Cinemas, Accra Mall and West Hills Mall When? 6pm and 9pm showings.

Cost? Set by each Cinema

Other February Events Tuesday Nights:

Karaoke at Republic Bar, Osu (8pm)

Friday Nights:

Dela Jackson Quartet at Alisa Hotel, Ridge (8pm)

Saturday Nights:

Live Music at Holiday Inn Hotel, Airport (8pm)

13th February 2016: Writers’ Project Ghana [READING]

The Writers’ Project Ghana invites you to come experience another exciting evening of book reading with authors Kofi Akpabli and Nana Awere Damoah this Valentine season at the newly opened Sytris Bookshop.

Where? Sytris Bookshop, near A&C Mall, East Legon.

Alternative Choice

20th February: Phreak Out [CONCERT] Experience the best Indie acts this side of the gulf with artists such as Worlasi, Poetra Asantewa, King Promise, and Sena Dagadu amongst other amazing artists, alongside exceptional young producers such as Kuvie as they take centre stage at Alliance Française for the Phreak Out Live Concert.

Where? Alliance Française When? 6pm Cost? GHC 20, GHC10 for AF students and members, Free for all under 16.

When? 4:30pm Cost? FREE 24th February: La Paillote Takpekpe - EcoRave [CONCERT]

The second edition of the EcoRave concert, the idea for this show was originally conceived by Wanlov the Kubolor and Hipsters of Nature in collaboration with Alliance Française.

The dress code for the event is in a recycled clothing or a recycled accessory. The best eco fashionista wins a special prize! The event ends in a rave which will feature Guest DJ ELO from Budapest, Hungary.

Where? La Pailotte stage, Alliance Française When? 7pm Cost? GHC 5, GHC 3 for AF students and members, free for all under 16.

26th February: The March [DANCE]

Artist Kenturah Davis, in collaboration with Kuyum Arts investigation Project developed a performance, weaving together ideas about history, allegiance, pride and protest. For all who have deep understanding of how dance speaks to our minds, this event is a journey through understanding ourselves and our community and exploring how this version of creativity looks at the world we are in today.

Where?

Alliance Française Amphitheatre When? 8pm Cost? GHC 20, GHC 10 for AF students and members, free for all under 16.

27th February: The FOKN Bois [MUSIC]

The dynamic music duo kick-start their year with the FOKN Party featuring some of their favourite acts such as Budapest-based sensation Sena Dagadu, Joey B and Pappy Kojo (also known as the Fanti Rap Van Damme). The event will be hosted by the FOKN Bois and the African Mermaid herself, Sister Deborah.

Where? Alliance Française When? 7pm Cost? GHC 20, GHC 10 for AF students and members, free for all under 16.

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture 7

February

Until 16th February: Yiwarra Kuju [EXHIBITION]

Writers’ Project Ghana feat. Elnathan John

ch r a M

In the far reaches of Northwestern Nigeria, Dantala lives among a gang of street boys who sleep under a kuka tree. During the election the boys are paid by the Small Parth to cause trouble. When their attempt to burn down the opposition’s headquarters ends in disaster, Dantala must run for his life. This is the premise for Elnathan John’s promising debut novel, Born on a Tuesday, that explores the perilous lives lived by the poor and vilnerable in Northen Nigeria. His reading at Vidya is a chance to hear and engage with one of the most fertile minds coming out of the African continent’s most prolific nation – a nation that produces a phenomenal number of acclaimed novelists.

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ic o h C

Elnathan John’s Born on a Tuesday is published

by Cassava Republic, one of West Africa’s leading publishers of original fiction and rights have already been sold to Grove Atlantic in the United States.

Where? Vidya Bookshop, Osu When? 5th March 2016 at 4pm Cost? FREE

Caine and Able 8

Trained as a lawyer, Elnathan John is best known in Nigeria as a provoking satirist in a country where the political classes just don’t get satire. Outside the borders of Nigeria, he has twice been shortlisted for the Caine Prize and been the subject of some high-profile literary conflicts.

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture

19th March: Kermesse Fair [DAY OUT]

A film about a family drama that would test the foundations of marriages.

Directed by Pascal Amanfo, the movie stars Yvonne Nelson, Kafui Danku, Doris Sackitey, Kunle Remi, Jose Tolbert, Victoria Michaels, Selly Galley and Emman Donkor.

Where? SilverBird Cinemas, Accra Mall and West Hills Mall When? 6:30pm and 8:30pm Cost? Set by each Cinema.

This is the biggest and only francophone fair in Ghana, featuring the cultural diversity of francophone countries presenting their crafts, dance, music, literature, fashion and traditional food and drinks. Come travel around the world without leaving Accra at this fantastic fair exploring the rich, beautiful francophone culture.

Where? Alliance Française When? 10 am Cost? FREE

12th March: Fatoumata Diawara [MUSIC] Malian musician, Fatoumata Diawara will take centre stage at this year’s Francophonie festival, set to thrill an audience with her smooth acoustic music which is a blend of Southern Malian and International influences, and what has been described as her ‘sensuous’ voice.

Where? Alliance Française.

When? 7pm Cost? TBA

25th March: Kokrobite Festival [MUSIC] Bibini Music presents the Kokrobite Beach Festival.

The festival, the maiden Other March Events

edition of its kind is in honour of musical founder and father, Faisal Helwani.

The event is a chance to reconnect with nature through arts and music.

Where? Kokrobite Beach When? 12pm Cost? TBA 30th March: La Paillote Takpekpe [CONCERT]

MARCH

4th March: Any Other Monday [FILM]

The regular all-styles performance extravaganza at Alliance Française. The event has been responsible for the emergence of the current crop of young artists rocking Accra’s stages.

Where? La Pailotte Stage, Alliance Française When? 7pm Cost? GHC 5, GHC 3 for AF students and members, free for all under 16.

8th March:

International Women’s Day Celebrations, Various Locations (All Day)

11th March:

Miss and Mister Alliance at Alliance Française (7pm)

Wednesday Nights:

Games Night at Burger & Relish, Osu (8pm)

Saturday Nights:

Live Music at Alisa Hotel, Ridge (8pm)

7th March: Atongo Zimba [MUSIC] Alternative Choice

Atongo Zimba’s new album tour will make its first stop at the +233 Jazz Bar in Accra. Expect Atongo to bring his usual energy to one of the first live performances of his new album ‘’FROM THE JUNGLE TO THE CITY’’.

Where? +233 Jazz Bar and Grill.

When? 7pm Cost? TBA

Fatoumata Diawara 12th March

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture

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Traditionally, the traders used what they called ‘Bobo’ lamps, until the area was electriďŹ ed in the 1960s.

O Ni Ma

Serving nig over 50 year ket is a sing with an all built over foo Osu Night Market is busiest on Fridays and Saturdays; people come from all over Accra after work, park their cars along the street, buy food and fraternise.

The land on which this fabled market stands, originally belonged to the Basel Mission of Switzerland, which evolved into what is now the Presbyterian Church of Ghana. As a tribute to its roots, the government recently renamed the street the Night Market is located on Basel Street.

ght-crawlers for rs, Osu Night Margle one way street l-embracing shed a mass of small od stalls.

Kenkey Reigns!

Osu ight arket

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Some of the earliest food sold at Osu Night Market were crabs, smoked ďŹ sh and Kenkey. The most popular foods now are spicy grilled Pork, kelewele and, proving its staying power over half a century.

In the early days, Osu Night Market was the only source of late night food and people travelled great distances on foot to eat there.

Using a fusion of rhythms and sounds from her two ethnicities – Akan and Yoruba – Adomaa is an afro-jazz and afrobeat songstress whose music is groovy, curiously enchanting and full of spunk.

She started her journey doing mash ups of songs from other artistes, quickly gaining international media attention and invitations to high profile events such as the MOGO awards, because of her striking individuality.

Afraba

Takes Over Accra project, Afraba has a more personal slant, revealing unexplored facets of her; her challenges as an artist, her perspectives on life, faith and some social issues. The name Afraba comes from two words, Afrafranto

it was made available in advance of the official release date.

The Afraba Concert on April 2nd 2016 at the Alliance Française will be, not only Adomaa’s first major concert, but also the live launch of Afraba, the culmination of dreams and hard work. It is fitting that the concert should be on the Alliance Française stage as the venue has consistently been supportive of emerging artists in Accra. Naturally, Adomaa is eager to share her EP with the world: “Afraba is my personal Journey, and I hope it inspires and challenges you to follow your heart despite the limitations you think you have. It starts with your mind!”

You may have seen her feature at other people’s concerts, you may have seen her via her YouTube channel, you may follow her on Twitter, but this is your chance to see Adomaa perform her original material for the first time – live in Accra! Go and witness an emerging artiste making her mark with a new different style, a different beat – the beat of a butterfly’s wings. April 2nd 2016 – save the date!

Adomaa performing at the MOGO Awards 2014 “...singer Adomaa playfully re-creates music by her fellow Ghanaian artists.”

- The Guardian Adomaa has since been working on original material and the result is an EP called Afraba, which was released online on January 31st 2016.

As Adomaa’s first original music

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in Twi and Labalaba in Yoruba both which mean Butterfly – a symbol that represents of the many cycles of life and allows for a variety of stages expressed through music.

The EP is a six song compilation of different beats ranging from jazz, pop, Afrobeat, highlife and a bit of a rock jam and has already yielded the catchy song ‘Traffic Jam’, which has generated excitement online since

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture

Where? Alliance Française When? 2nd April, 7pm Cost? GHC 20, GHC 10 for AF students and members, free for all under 16.

APRIL

other april events 1st April: Dela Jackson Quartet [MUSIC]

All April: Ehalakasa Slam The Ehalakasa slam is an annual competition to determine the best of the best in spoken word slam. Since it started in 2014, spoken word artiste 100% has held the crown as Ehalakasa Slam King displaying his amazing talent for rap and punch.

This year, it starts with the preliminary slam in April to select three winners who will compete in the final slam competition schedule for November 2016.

Mid-April: Vodafone Ghana Music Awards [AWARDS NIGHT] The Vodafone Ghana Music Awards is the biggest annual music award in Ghana, the equivalent of a local Brit or Grammy awards, with the same attendant controversy. The event is always held in April, but the dates are often announced late. Full details will be posted via the Accra Culture Capsule social media network.

Where? Accra International Conference Centre (TBC) When? TBC Cost? TBC 22nd April: Creative Art Fair Creative Spaces believe that art is universal, and inside each of us resides a bit of creative talent. The Creative Art Fair will be a unique day out because you ‘ll be able to make art or buy art. There will be materials at hand

and workshop spaces as well as artwork by contemporary artists for sale.

Where? 8 Mulberry Street, East Legon When? From 11am Cost? Will depend on activity

30th April: La Paillote Takpekpe [CONCERT] The regular all-styles performance extravaganza at Alliance Française. La Paillote is where Accra’s current crop of young artists go to experiment with new material. Always an entertaining surprise in store.

Where? La Pailotte stage, Alliance Française When? 7pm Cost? GHC 5, GHC 3 for AF students and members, free for all under 16.

Alternative Choice

The energetic multi-instrumentalist band leader, Dela Jackson, plays jazz standards and his own interpretations of popular local standards. There is often a guest spot that yields extraordinary solos from harmonica players, trombonists, toy pianos... it’s a night that never fails to entertain and as it’s April Fool’s Day, who knows?

Where? Alisa Hotel, North Ridge When? 8.30pm Cost? FREE

Locations and further details will be updated via Ehalakasa’s social media outlets.

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture 13

Accra Chapter

Changes

by Ama Ata Aidoo (an excerpt) It was night in Accra. It was not as hot as it had been in the day, but it was still hot, and the atmosphere was heavy with the moisture from the gulf.

The Hotel Twentieth Century was blazing with light, consuming enough electricity to light up the whole of the nearby fishing district. But the fishing villages did not have electricity. In fact, all that the fishing community knew of that facility were the huge pylons that stood in their vegetable patches, and massive cables passing over roofs of the homes as these bore the electricity to the more deserving members of society. Like users of hotel lobbies.

Like Mrs Esi Sekyi and her friend Mrs Opokuya Dakwa.

“the fishing villages did not have electricity. In fact, all that the fishing community knew of that facility were the huge pylons that stood in their vegetable patches” Kubi had not shown up yet, and the two women had long stopped expecting him. In fact they had decided that the chance meeting, along with his failure to be there on time, was a definite advantage. In spite of the long pauses, they were having an old-fashioned relaxed chat, and Esi could always take Opokuya home anyway. However, Opokuya was feeling a little uneasy even though she had long ago taught herself to see her husband as a grown up person who was perfectly capable of looking after himself; and also that people being late does not mean they are bleeding to death by some roadside.

But sometimes they are, screamed the nurse in her. Maybe she had worked too long in hospitals.

“Esi, exactly what is the problem?”

Opokuya couldn’t help putting it in her blunt way this time. “Is it another woman?” As Esi opened her mouth to answer she was also wondering

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how Opokuya could speak with her grandmother’s voice.

her story. But that she knew would be unfair.

“Opokuya, do you remember when you were still up north, and I stopped at yours for the weekend on my way back from Ouaga?”

“Esi, what about your job?”

“You had been on some Ghana-Burkina joint commission, no?”

“Yes.” “Yes.” “I had told you then that I was already beginning to feel fed up.”

“Yes Esi. But why? Is it other women?”

Opokuya hated to, but couldn’t prevent herself from repeating the question.

“In any case, everyone knows that a man’s relationship with women other than his wife, however innocent, can always help ruin a marriage. And that includes his love for his own mother.”

“Oh no. To be fair to old Oko, it was never that. In fact sometimes, I wished he would behave like other men in that respect.”

“Esi you are mad.” Opokuya truly couldn’t believe her ears.

“That is what my grandmother said.”

mother

and

“How many women wouldn’t give everything they’ve got to have a man like that?”

“Well they can all have him.”

“Listen my sister, you have to be realistic.”

“About what?”

“About life!”

“It’s he who wasn’t being realistic.”

“No?” “Well…well... here we are, two people, each with a demanding job…” Opokuya was surprised. Esi was beginning to sound childish and petulant. She had a strong urge to scream at her to stop

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture

“As you know, my job can be very demanding sometimes. I have to prepare materials for ministers, permanent secretaries…you know such people. And then I have to do a lot of travelling; inside the country, outside.

Oko resented every minute he was free and I couldn’t be with him.”

“But that was so natural.”

“For whom?”

“My sister, if a man loves a woman, he would want to have her around as much as possible.”

“To the extent that he would want me to change my job because he thought it took me away from him?”

“Yes,” said Opokuya, wondering where she had acquired such ideas from, and the confidence to express them so forcefully. “To the extent that he would want you to change your job.”

“But when we first met, Oko told me that what attracted him most about me was my air of independence!”

Opokuya had begun to giggle, and then discovered she could hardly stop. “You see, it happens to all of us. Esi listen: men are not really interested in a woman’s independence or her intelligence. The few who claim they like intelligent and active women are also interested in having such women permanently in their beds and in their kitchens.”

“Which is impossible. contradiction.”

It’s

a

“Yes. But there it is. Very few men realise that the sharp girls they meet and fall in love with are sharp because, among other things, they’ve got challenging jobs in stimulating places. That such jobs are also demanding. That these are also the kinds of jobs that keep the mind active — alive. Look, quite often, the first thing a man who marries a

woman mainly for the quickness of her brain tries to do is get her to change her job to a more ‘reasonable’ one. Or to a part-time, not full-time job. The pattern never ever changes. And then a ‘reasonable’ job is quite often dull too.”

“And no part-time job has the stimulation that its full-time version can give.”

“Exactly! So that when a woman changes jobs in such a manner, more likely than not, her vision begins to shrink, and she begins to get bored and dissatisfied.”

“And even he might begin to find her dull.”

“Sure.”

Swiftly, Esi had become aware of a certain desolation moving towards her from far away.

“It’s an impossible situation,” she said rather heavily.

“It is,” Opokuya agreed, with equal cheerlessness. For a time, they were quiet, Opokuya stirring the cold ghost of her tea, and Esi twirling around her empty glass.

“Let’s have another drink,” they both said, at the same time. They ordered a second beer for Esi, and this time, a gin and lime for Opokuya, looking with a mischievous understanding at one another.

“Surely Kubi is different,” Esi picked up the thread of their conversation from where they had left it before their drinks came.

“How little you know my husband,” Opokuya declared, not really wanting to say more.

“He’s always seemed so reasonable.”

“Well, go on thinking that. I don’t want to disillusion you... but Esi, what are you going to do?”

“About what?”

“Esi, you can’t stay alone forever.”

“Why not?”

“It’s just not healthy.”

“Says the local representative of the SWI.” “And what’s that?”

Esi was giggling. “It means Satisfied Wives International. It’s how another girlfriend refers to you all.”

“All of us who?”

“All of you happily married women who are always saying that being single is not healthy.”

“Oh really?” she hadn’t thought of herself as either a happily married woman or that she belonged to a club of such characters. Now they were both laughing. “Actually, I don’t know… I thought…”

“Don’t think,” said Esi, rather sharply.

“Especially if your thoughts are in the region of me going back to Oko.” She took a long big gulp of her beer rather sulkily.

Opokuya stayed quiet for a while before saying seriously that in fact that was what would normally be expected of her as a good friend. “In any case, what are you planning? A proper divorce soon? A remarriage?” she tried not to sound like a stern busy body.

Esi was vehement: “Me? Never!”

“Why ever not?”

“I could not bear it,” exclaimed Esi, quite obviously having a problem keeping her voice down. “Another husband to sit on my back twentyfour hours a day? The same arguments about where a woman’s place is?

Another husband to whine all day about how I love my work more than him? Ugh, Opokuya, I couldn’t. And thank you very much.”

“So back to my question, and forgive me for harassing you but Esi, what are you going to do now? After all, you are human. You must get lonely sometimes?”

“You are not harassing me. Besides, who else do I have who would discuss things so openly and patiently with me? I’m definitely human and I most certainly feel lonely sometimes. Often.

But what can I do about it?”

“Really, why throw away a perfectly good husband for the loneliness of a single woman’s life?”

“Opokuya, please don’t you also treat me like a child. Just a little while ago, when I said that I had always thought Kubi was a good husband, you nicely shut me up. It is beginning to look as if the nicest husband is always the one someone else is living with, no?” And each of them was shocked that the thought had finally become words.

“It is beginning to look as if the nicest husband is always the one someone else is living with.”

“Say that again, my sister,” agreed Opokuya. “But mind you,” she thought she should seize the calmness in the discussion at that point, and press home an idea, “Unlike so many cities abroad, there isn’t much here that a single woman can do to relieve the loneliness and boredom of the long hours between the end of the working day and sleep.”

“You mean when a single woman is actually living alone?”

“Yes.” “You can say that again. It is even more frightening to think that our societies do not admit that single women exist.

Yet…” “Yet what?”

“Single women have always existed here too,” she said with some wonder.

“Oh yes. And all over the continent…”

“Women who never managed to marry early enough.”

“Or at all. Widows, divorcees.”

“I wonder what happened to such women.”

“Like what?”

“Think about it carefully.”

“I am sure that as usual, they were branded witches,” Esi said, laughing.

“Don’t laugh Esi, it’s serious. You may be right. Because it is easy to see that our societies have had no patience with the unmarried woman. People thought her single state was an insult to the glorious manhood of our men. So they put as much pressure as possible on her—“ “—until she gave in and married or remarried, or went back to her former husband.”

“And of course if nothing cured her, they ostracised her and drove her crazy.”

“And then soon enough, she died of shame, loneliness and heartbreak.”

At this point, both Esi and Opokuya burst out laughing again. Almost hysterically. As they calmed down

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture 15

Opokuya said, “Esi, it’s not funny,” and Esi said, “Opokuya, it’s not funny.”

“But Opokuya,” Esi resumed the discussion, “how come you know so much about these problems? After all, you’ve been happily married all your adult life.”

“Happily married, eh? I’ll let that one too pass. Have you forgotten that I have been a nurse and midwife over the period under discussion? Esi, in that profession, with that kind of specialisation, no one can prevent herself from learning about women and human beings generally. In fact, people oppress you with information. And what they don’t tell you, you easily stumble on.”

“Oh yes, I see what you mean…

Opokuya, what can I do?”

“Ah-h-h! Now listen to who is asking what!” Opokuya was enjoying her triumph.

“So what was all that leading to?”

“Simple. You just can’t have everything your way, and not expect to be lonely, at least some of the time.”

After that they both fell silent for a while.

“No, you can’t, Esi,” Opokuya said, as if there had been no pause. “No matter what anybody says, we can’t have it all.

Not if you are a woman. Not yet.”

“Our society doesn’t allow it.”

“Esi, no society on this earth allows that.”

“Oh Lord.”

“I know I’m beginning to sound disagreeable. But I thought it was clear that whatever other faults he may have, which of course I wouldn’t know about, Oko loved you and wanted your marriage to work.”

“On his terms.”

“Please be serious.”

“It had to be on someone’s terms”

“I am always serious… what do you think you can do?”

“Why not mine?”

“There was a problem lying in the bush,” “You went and dragged it into your house.”

“Why are you now being so childish, eh? Our people have said that for any marriage to work, one party has to be a fool.”

“And they really mean the woman, no?”

Esi could hear her grandmother singing. Then, almost to herself, “I’m sure there’ll be no solution for me.

Unless I meet a man who is prepared to accept my lifestyle.”

“Naturally.”

“Your lifestyle? Esi, if you continue in that way, you get into trouble. Because, my dear, no man is totally going to accept your lifestyle.”

“Well I’m having none of it. P-e-r-i-o-d.”

“So what do I do with my loneliness?”

“You don’t know what loneliness is.”

“But Opoku…”

“Ah, but you. Did you really think you were lonely? My sister, you don’t know. What I was going to say though is that, if you really were lonely, and you wanted to do something about it badly enough, you would know what to do.”

“What do you mean?”

“Ah. I thought you people who go to universities know and understand everything.”

‘Now you are being nasty.’

“Forgive me, my sister. I didn’t mean it like that.”

16

They both burst out laughing again.

“I knew it,” exclaimed Esi. “That’s how life is.”

“Esi, if you really looked around at the world of husbands, wouldn’t you admit that Oko wasn’t that bad?” then almost laughing again, “You should have tried harder to squeeze out some time for him.”

“How? How could I have done more than I did as a wife and a mother, and still be able to compete on an equal basis with my male colleagues in terms of my output? How can I do more than I’m already doing and compete effectively for promotion, travel opportunities and other side benefits of the job?”

Opokuya couldn’t contain her impatience any longer: “Esi, Esi, Esi! What kind of talk is this? Ah. So you gave extra time to your job. You did the necessary travelling and attended the necessary conferences. You competed effectively and got promoted. Now

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture

look at what has happened to your marriage. Where does that leave you?”

They fell into another trough of silence, because they had both been mildly shocked by Opokuya’s outburst.

Opokuya herself was wondering what had gotten into her, and hadn’t she gone too far? Esi was thinking she didn’t know Opokuya cared that much and could Opokuya— and therefore everybody else— be right and she wrong? And in spite of her doubts, Opokuya couldn’t keep quiet anyway.

“Your male colleagues have still got their wives?” she said almost angrily.

“Not to mention the odd girlfriend or two,” Esi added “I’m glad you realise that yourself, eh and of course their wives and girlfriends are still waiting for them to come back home from more conferences… and where is your husband?”

There was another long silence. Then Esi spoke.

“Opokuya, I don’t think I’m beginning to regret anything. But in fact, considering how much I put into my job…sometimes I even take home data to analyse! I never get that much from it, not as half as much as those men… and even with the promotion, they passed me over a couple of times…”

“Now, stop. How do you know I want to hear all of that?”

“Why is life so hard on the professional African woman?” Esi asked, her voice showing that she was a little puzzled.

But Opokuya wasn’t having any of her self-pity. So she countered rather heavily. “Why is life so hard on the non-professional African woman? Eh? Esi, isn’t life even harder for the poor rural and urban African woman?”

“I think life is just hard on women,” Esi agreed, trying to calm Opokuya down.

“But remember it is always harder for some other women somewhere else,” Opokuya insisted. Both of them sighed.

Esi opened her mouth to say something, then she clapped it quickly shut, opened her eyes wide and exclaimed in a whisper, “Opokuya, look who is here!”

“Who…. Who?” Opokuya asked, looking frantically around. But of course, there was no way she could easily have spotted the object of Esi’s excited attention, since she hadn’t met

him before. Esi on her part was following him with her eyes as he, just as she had earlier, went straight up to the front desk. She tried not to stare too hard.

But there was no doubt that she was interested in whoever he was. Finally, Opokuya said, with something like awe in her voice, “You mean that one?”

“Yes,” “Do you know him?”

“Yes. That’s Ali. Kondey. Ali Kondey.”

Ali too had seen Esi the moment he entered the lobby. And although he had gone to the reception truly to make enquiries about a business associate he was expecting, he was also conscious of the need for him to use that time to recover from the extreme agitation that had attacked him at the sight of Esi. Then he was walking towards where the two friends were sitting. As he got nearer their table, he extended his right arm. “A-llo, Esi.”

Esi came back to Ali. “Would you like to join us?”

Much of Ali’s charm poured out. “You know I would love to,” he said, “but I’ve got a guest here from across the border, and we are having a little conference in his room. In fact, I just spoke to him from the desk. He is expecting me.”

“That’s okay then,” Esi squeaked, her voice gone even thinner.

“Still, it is a shame I can’t join you,” Ali added. “But could I please phone you sometime during the coming week Esi?” Esi said that would be fine. Ali thanked her, adding that it was a pleasure meeting Opokuya. Then he was gone.

“Hello, Ali,” said Esi, somewhat tremulously.

“God, he is gorgeous,” breathed Opokuya, as soon as she was sure Ali wouldn’t hear her. Esi agreed that Ali was handsome. Then with enormous surprise, Opokuya noticed that Esi’s eyes were sparkling. She stayed quiet for a fraction for a second, and then asked Esi easily if she did not know Ali Kondey rather well.

“How nice to see you.”

“Sort of,” Esi said not so easily.

“Actually, since we last met, I’ve been in and out more than once.”

“So what is this rubbish lonely-hearts line you’ve been serving me? And there was idiot me trying so hard to console you. Hah! Hah! Hah!” Opokuya had pretended to be angry and ended up laughing. Esi giggled.

“You are hardly a resident here.”

“I know, it’s the fault of my job.”

Both of them suddenly remembered that Opokuya was around.

“Please, Opoku”

“Oh, Ali, meet my friend Mrs Opokuya Dakwa. Opoku, Mr Ali Kondey.”

“Please my foot. I just caught you out.

That’s all.”

“Hello, Mr Kondey.”

“You see it wasn’t something I thought I could talk easily about, even to you.”

“Hello.”

“No?”

“Not really…it’s true he’s been showing a lot of interest. Bringing me all sorts of gifts from his travels. Stuff like that. But I’ve been trying not to encourage him.”

“Why not? After all, if you are leaving Oko or you have already left him, then you might as well take an insurance policy.”

“Opoku, you are not being nice. And in any case, you know I’m not at all smart in these things.”

“Esi, I know nothing. In fact, I’m beginning to think I don’t know anything about you.”

“Oh don’t say that. Besides, the situation is quite complicated.”

“How... There is a wife?”

Esi sighed rather audibly, “There is.”

Opokuya heard the sigh, and became immediately concerned.

“You like him, heh?”

“Very very much.”

“I don’t blame you. He looks good enough to eat.”

Opokuya suggested it really was time they went home. Esi agreed. Just as she had expected, Opokuya was feeling a little drowsy after the alcohol, and more than a little uneasy about her husband and the fact that she’d been away from her home for so long, and unexpectedly. Besides, both she and Esi were tired from the intensity of the discussion. They beckoned the waiter who had been serving them throughout the evening, and when he came, they asked for their bill.

One of Ghana’s leading writers, Ama Ata Aidoo, is a writer whose work explores the position of the modern African woman, the result of the juxtaposition of traditional values and the contact with colonialists. Her works include the famous play, The Dilemma of a Ghost (1965), the experimental, mixed-genre novel, Our Sister Killjoy (1977), No Sweetness Here (1970), a collection of short stories and, more recently, the novel Changes: A Love Story (1991) from which the extract above is taken. An icon for feminists globally, in 2014, a crowdfunded documentary about her life, The Art of Ama Ata Aidoo, tracing seven decades of her life from rural Ghana to international recognition was released and won Best Documentary Feature at the Silicon Valley African Film Festival.

The image seen here is the original Feminist Press cover of Changes. The novel has now been re-released by Perason with a new cover and is available in several bookshops in Accra, including Sytris Bookshop, Vidya Bookshop and the Legon University Bookshop.

Accra culture capsule - extraordinary moments to capture 17

Q 25

Quarter/Quarter Ghana’s leading exponent of the Palm Wine guitar and all round savant of Asante court tradition, Koo Nimo, was born in October 1934 in Foase, Ashanti Region, Ghana. Trained as a biochemist, he has continued to play music throughout his career and came to prominence as a musician through his work with the Addadam Agofomma ensemble.

With his reputation as a musician growing he eventually began to work as a lecturer in Ethnomusicology locally and internationally, including a stint at the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor. In 1990, Koo Nimo’s Osabarima became the first Ghanaian music album released in the Compact Disc Format.

In this quarter in 1991, in February, Koo Nimo received the Asanteman Award from the Asantehene for his contributions to music.

Koo Nimo

ASANTEMAN AWARD - FEBRUARY 1991

ACCRA CCRA CUL CULTURE TURE A C A P S U L E