Floor Sanding - DIY Tips & Guides

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FLOOR SANDING DIY GUIDES


GUIDE

Sanding Like a Pro in 5 steps 1st Preparation Knowing the essentials of the floor sanding process will help you to reduce some of the risks and achieve better results.You will need to hire an equipment for this task as well as some other products. The checklist will make the whole process easier for you, bear in mind that the efficiency and the quality of the job depend on how advanced is the machine you hire. You will need to hire an equipment for this task as well as some other products. Our checklist will make the whole process easier for you, bear in mind that the efficiency and the quality of the job depend on how advanced is the machine you hire. The belt sander will do the hard job, with the edger you will be able to strip off the old finish from around the corners. The buffer will be needed to smooth out the surface before applying the finish. The frequently used sandpaper grits are 24 - 40 - 60 - 80 / 100. Don't forget about the safety measures, the process might be very noisy so you will need ear plugs. Even with equipment that is dust-free there are still some small dust particles so a respiratory mask is recommended.


GUIDE

2nd

Inspect The Area

Check if the plank's width allows it to be sanded one more time. Each sanding takes up to 1 mm of timber. Standard solid wood which is 18 mm thick can be sanded average 6 times - we don't recommend to go further. For example, the laminate planks are not made from real wood, which is why if you try to sand them you will destroy the flooring. The engineered wood planks have only a thick top layer of real wood that can be sanded. This means they can be refinished between 2 and 3 times during their lifespan. Another aspect of the inspection part, is that that you will be able to check the condition of the subfloor which is really important. If you are living in a house with wooden joists, now is the perfect time to check them. This is the best moment to decide where your renovation work is headed. If there are problems underneath, it's best to take the appropriate measures on time. Neglecting such issues might cost you a lot more in the future, as it is possible to affect the sturdiness of the construction.

3rd

Clean From Dirt/Dust The area has to be wiped and vacuumed good, before starting with the real job. Removing the furniture from the room will make the process easier. If there is any heavy furniture you can't remove, our advice is to secure them with dustsheets. Even if you use dust extractor with your belt sander, there are small particles in the air that will settle down. In fact it's good to remove anything that may easily collects dust, e.g. books, curtains etc. As we said the whole process is really noisy, so if you want to avoid problems with your neighbors we advice you to warn them about the on-going renovation project in your home.


4th The Sanding Process 1st Row - start with the lowest grit - 24, if the floor is in better condition you can start from 40. This will remove the dirt and the old finish. Vacuum the floor in between each grit change. 2nd Row - The grit goes 20+ (60 if you have started with 40) but you have to be sure you have passed everywhere with the lower grit first. The second course will remove the marks from the rough sanding. 3rd Row - Here you go with finer grit that remove even the smaller imperfections from the surface. 4th Buffing - this process will smooth out the surface and prepare it for the finish. The wood pores will be open so they will soak better the finish. Do the sanding on the forward stroke and never backwards. It should be done in line with the wood grain. Do it from left to right. Don't linger too long in same area and don't press down the machine.


GUIDE

5th

Sealing with Finish

The finish application is actually a simple process - just avoid overlapping (it will leave marks). The risk here is if you The finish application is actually a simple process - just avoid overlapping (it will leave marks). The risk here is if choose a bad product - it will ruin the appearance of your flooring and your efforts will be in vain. There is a lot to you choose a bad product - it will ruin the appearance of your flooring and your efforts will be in vain. There is a lot know about the finishes - the facts will make a huge difference. In general, you will have to choose between few main to know about the finishes - the facts will make a huge difference. In general you will have to choose between categories of products - lacquers, oils and hardwax-oils. Another thing you will have to decide is what sheen do you lacquers and oils. Make sure you follow the manufacturer guides. want for your finish - matt, satin or gloss (their appearance vary on the different products). The choice between lacquer and oils depends completely on your preference - the lacquers create a protective film covering the surface of the wood. They might be solvent and water-based, the second option is what we recommend you - it has low drying time and low VOCs, most of these products are non-yellowing with the time. On the other hand, the oils will emphasise the natural look of the wood because they soak in it. When the moment for refinishing comes to the different products require different approach, the oils should be reapplied every few months (if there are no other surface imperfections). If the floor is damaged you will have to sand it and then apply the finish again. If you have to refinish with lacquer, before applying new coats, you have to make sure there are no marks left from the previous finish . Make sure you follow the manufacturer guides.

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