14 Aldeburgh, Suffolk Poznan, Poland Key West to St Augustine US
Glasgow German B&B, Columbus myhotel, Bloomsbury
Andaz, London Nelsonville Music Festival FreeStyle Royal Blood
Carlton School of Food Mamounia Ian Hughes Istanbul & More
escape Win an Antic Pop-up tent by Easy Camp SPECIAL TRAVEL EDITION
14 16 Street Style from Free People Clothing
06 The Hotlist I Heart Benidorm
08 Hong Kong In Black & White
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12 Andaz Hotel, London 16 Street Style from Free People Clothing 26 I Heart Benidorm
110 Turkish delishts:
30 In Music – Ones to Watch
Istanbul
32 Royal Blool Royal Blood
36 Nelsonville Music Festival 2014
32
44 Coastal Dreams: From Key West to St Augustine USA 62 myhotel, Bloomsbury 66 Sensational Salgados! 71 Soup-er Troopers: ¡Cho!
>>> 66 Sensational Salgados
88
After the Gold Rush: Glasgow
44 Coastal Dreams: Florida to St Augustine
138 Win an Antic Pop-up tent by Easy Camp
Beautiful furniture and lighting NOBLE DESIGNS www.nobledesignslimited.com Tel: 01753 655443
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issue
Hello!
76 To The Manor Born The Carlton School of Food
This is a special travel edition of Flush Magazine, packed full of places to inspire a last minute holiday escape, or for that next big Summer adventure. Whether it’s finding a different beat in Benidorm, kicking back in the Florida Keys or sampling exotic Turkish delights in Istanbul, there is a different flavour on every page.
80 Mamounia Lounge
A big shout as always to our contributors (you are fab!) and if you want to get involved, get in touch!
96 Geocaching Hiding in Plain Sight
Thanks for stopping by,
84 Weekend Escapes Aldeburgh, Suffolk The White Lion 88 After the Gold Rush, Glasgow 92 The Big Yin Malmaison Hotel
100 More than just a dance Poznan 106 Nissan Note Acenta Premium 1.2 DIG-S 110 Weekend Escapes Istanbul 123 Taking the i-Road in Grenoble
Pete Graham, EDITOR
125 R U intelligent like what I am? by Ian Hughes 132 UP by Jawbone 110 Off the beaten track: Discover Columbus 138 WIN an Antic Pop Up Tent from Easy Camp
CONTRIBUTORS Mary Barber Sara Darling Ian Hughes Frank Turner Graeme Hughes Casey Bowers Manasi Kumar
THE HOTLIST The stuff of life
Hip Flip
Gandys was created by two brothers orphaned by the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami and 10% of their profits goes to the mission ‘Orphans for Orphans’. Their new collaboration with Liberty features classic prints and the brand is rightly going from strength to strength. Flipping Brill. From £18. visit www.gandysflipflops.com
Finger Picking Good
Download the App(s), plug one end into your iPhone or iPad and the other into your guitar, keyboards or mic and away you go, instant Karma. The iRig is ace and essential equipment on the road, on holiday or even in your mates bedroom. From around £100 For more info visit www. ikmultimedia.com
Chocoholic
Combining chocolate flavours in a beer often has mixed results, but this surprisingly light tipple from Montezuma’s in conjunction with Hogs Back Brewery goes straight to the top of the class. Try it with your pudding and wonder why it’s not been done like this before. £2.00 per bottle www.montazumas.co.uk
WIN!
In the Bag
This ‘Weekday Navigator’ bag by Cox England features a padded laptop compartment, colour coded phone sleeves and a leather trimmed accessory pouch. They’re not cheap, but they ooze style and panache from every angle. Luxury personified and available in mahogany, black and red, tan and navy or red £810 from www.coxengland.com
Moroccan Gold
A vibrant splash of Mediterranean colour fused with a Moroccan tiled motif, these gorgeous designs from the Nador collection are perfect for tapas in the sun or spice under the stars. The set includes plates, mugs and platters and prices start from only £3.00 Available from www.formahouse.co.uk
Boom Boom
These handy portable chargers from Boompods are just the sort of cool thing Apple used to invent before they ran out of juice. Designed to keep your devices powered up no matter how far from the mains supply you travel. From £29.99 visit www.boompods.com
Win an Antic Pop Up Tent from Easy Camp
Hong Kong IN BLACK & WHITE
Did you know there are only 1600 pandas alive in the world? To highlight this startling fact, the WWF commissioned French Artist Paulo Grangeon to make 1600 papier-mâchÊ pandas and then sent them to Hong Kong.
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The Panda’s art tour saw them popping up at iconic hot spots around the city including the Avenue of Stars, the Star Ferry and the Shatin Racecourse, and at the opening ceremony of a new lifestyle hub in the heart of Hong Kong Island, called PMQ. The new Hub, once a public school was renovated under a conservation project and has been set up to help and nurture local creative individuals
in pop-up shops and studio spaces. Since it’s soft opening in May it’s fast become the place to find the coolest designers, like BlkSheep Empire founded by Australian born, Hong Kong based footwear designer Jen Webb and partner Jay C, or Innermost, a British lighting and furniture brand from Steve Jones and Russell Cameron. Part of the hub is the Aberdeen Street Social, a restaurant, cocktail bar
and café by Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton specialising in British cuisine (done well). Dishes include such delights as Pork Chop Pumpkin & Orange Puree, Pine Nut Dressing, Endive & Roasted Shimeji Mushrooms and Chocolate Banana Calamansi Madras Curry. The diverse menu means they can ‘panda’ to all tastes (I know, I’m sorry) For more info visit www.pmq.org.hk
Room with Living in Norfolk means I’m often travelling in and out of London via Liverpool Street station. If you turn left and head away from the main entrance you’ll soon arrive at the Andaz Hotel, a 5-star Boutique gem with a unique history and an eye on the ‘now’.
th a View
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Room with a View
They’ve just launched a new art initiative at the Hotel entitled ‘Room With A View’, where four leading artists are creating unique pieces of art in four different guest bedrooms. The rooms will be available to stay in and the designs will reflect the rich cultural diversity of the local area, past, present and future. The first piece, ‘The Pearly Room’ by Chris Price has just been finished and pays tribute to the alternative royalty associated with this part of town. Pearly Kings and Queens have roamed East London since the 19th century and are thought to have come about when a Japanese trade ship sank in the Thames and its huge cargo of pearl buttons was salvaged. The local market traders took to sewing them onto their clothing and the rest, as they say is history. Other rooms to be unveiled in the coming months will feature work by Patrick Vale, ILoveDust and Patrick Morgan and promise to be completely different in style. I got the chance to see ‘The Pearly Room’ up close
and also visible in the piece are local landmarks, including Christ Church Spitalfields and Wilton’s Music Hall. The work reflects wonderfully the vibrancy that resonates throughout the Andaz and this part of London, making it an ideal place to hang when you want to catch some art (or even a train).
Originally ‘The Great Eastern Hotel’, The Andaz’s unassuming exterior conceals a grandeur and style that dates back to it’s construction in 1884. It’s been renovated several times over the years and now its 267 rooms and 15 luxury suites enjoy period features with a modern twist. The Hotel is part of literary history and where Van Helsing stays on his first visit to London in Bram Stoker’s, classic novel Dracula. Incidentally, a favourite with the locals is the weekend brunch (AKA hangover cure ) at the Eastway Restaurant at the hotel. A New York style brasserie featuring Gluten free treats, freshly squeezed juices, bubbling mimosas and an interactive DIY Bloody Mary bar (my personal fav). Try the ‘Love it or ‘Ate It’ Chicken’ (£15) – confit chicken legs glazed with Marmite and spices, accompanied by rosemary and bacon waffle. Combine brunch with an overnight stay with rates starting from £180 including VAT per night on Friday and Saturday in an Andaz King room. Room rates include complimentary Wi-Fi, non-alcoholic minibar and local landline phone calls For more info visit www.andazliverpoolstreet.com
free Street Style from Free People Clothing
STYLE
Photographer: Faith McGary Clothing:; Free People Clothing Stylist: Madeline Robicheaux
FREE-style
Photographer: Faith McGary Clothing:; Free People Clothing Stylist: Madeline Robicheaux
FREE-style
Photographer: Faith McGary Clothing:; Free People Clothing Stylist: Madeline Robicheaux
FREE-style
Photographer: Faith McGary Clothing:; Free People Clothing Stylist: Madeline Robicheaux
www.freepeople.com
FREE-style
Photographer: Faith McGary Clothing:; Free People Clothing Stylist: Madeline Robicheaux
I Benidorm
There is another side to Benidorm from the one you might know. Look beyond the crowded beaches, skyscrapers, mobility scooters, olive oil basted sunbathers and holiday romances and you’ll find a sun-drenched Costa with a heart of gold By Sara Darling
A 15-minute stroll west brings you to the Old Town, where the loungers don’t overlap, the crowds are sparse and the bikinis even sparser. Soothing jazzy music tinkles from the bars and the tasty tapas restaurants are just on the horizon. The neon signs of the Brit bars a distant memory. In fact you can avoid the neon jungle completely if you enter town from the other side, and observe the masses from a distance whilst you sup on fresh prawns or
a little something in them all.
Two wheels are better than one
A great way to explore is on a segway… a twowheeled “moped”, which you can hire with an instructor who with a Madonna inspired earpiece, navigates you through the town. Culminating at the Serena Gelada Nature Park, this is the perfect way to get away from it all and feel a little smug zooming past the mobility scooters!
Wet Suits paella and ice-cold cava, served from real glasses.
Lazy Lunch
When you’re ready for a lunch, the infamous Tapas Alley in the Old Town is the place for restaurant hopping. With at least ten dining options tempting you with their delicacies, go there hungry and treat yourself! With the favourites of gambas al ajillo, tortilla española, jamon serrano and olives on every menu, with such a choice of restaurants it’s worth trying
Having been a tourist destination since the 60s, Benidorm certainly knows how to cater for its visitors. I can highly recommend the watersports, everything from jet-sking to snorkeling to boat tours and scuba diving, I was particularly impressed with myself when I stood up on cable skis! Not for the faint-hearted, but well worth the adventure. No Benidormian vacation would be complete without a water park. The Aqualandia hosts the highest waterslide in Europe alongside several more gentle ones - something for the whole family I promise! And just
I Benidorm
next door is MundoMar, where water animals play. You can book in to swim with dolphins- a truly unforgettable experience.
Welcome to the Jungle
It’s also possible to explore the countryside some more, with a jeep experience. Visit “Marco Polo Expediciones” and get yourself a man with a van who, will tailor a programme to take you inland through the jungle and show you the beauty of the natural Benidorm, where it’s heart truly lies. Getting away from the crowds and heading up the winding mountains, your guide can take you and up to six friends in a jeep to experience stunning views of the city and skyline. There is also the option to visit ‘Les Fonts de Algar’ the natural waterfalls where you could easily spend a whole day dipping in and out of the crystal clear water- a refreshing end to a hot day!
Spirit of Asia
Stay in one of Benidorm’s splendid five star hotels, the Asia Gardens
nestles in the hills of the city and is also a refuge from the excitement and resort life. With it’s own Eastern inspired mini village, the all year round heated swimming pools, restaurants and luxurious bedroom suites make it antidote to the hectic beach life. This is the place to come and wind down and spoil yourself in the spa. You might even bump into one of the Bruce’s (Willis or Springsteen) who have stayed here. Needless to say I’ve added it to my fantasy honeymoon hotel!Watch this space…
Monarch, the scheduled leisure airline, operates year round flights to Alicante from Birmingham, London Gatwick, London Luton, East Midlands and Manchester airports with fares, including taxes, from £34.99 one way (£85.94 return). For further information on flights, Monarch Holidays or Monarch Hotels, visit www.monarch.co.uk
Activities Specialist operator offering a wide range of sport & activities and tours. Escorted jeep safaris in 8 seater vehicles full day from €59 (Under 12 yrs €48) including entrance to Algar waterfalls, lunch & hotel pickup. Self-drive jeeps are also available. Cycle hire from €10€per day. Escorted jeep safari www.marcopolo-exp.es. Jetski: Aquatic Fun, Levante Beach
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Benidorm offers a wide range of sports & leisure activities, events, fiestas & festivals throughout the year, including a number of summer music festivals and gastronomy events. See www. lovebenidorm.com and www. facebook.com/visitbenidorm for more info
Recommended Accommodation l 4* Melia Hotel Sol Costablanca on Levante Beachfront. The 185-room hotel offers doubles on B&B basis in July from approx £109 per night (min 4 nights stay during high season) www.melia.com/en/hotels/spain/ benidorm/sol-costablanca/index. html Barcelo Asia Gardens Hotel & Thai Spa from €240 with choice of spa & golf packages www. asiagardens.es.
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Benidorm Palace, Avenida Severo Ochoa 13, www.benidorm-palace.com
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Recommended Eating Le Sol - gastrobar lounge restaurant - Tasting menus around €25. l Barranco Playa restaurant, Calle Vicente Llorca Alos 14, www. barranco playa.com Ulia, Solotula. l
Nightlife l Ku Lounge Beach Club, Fanconi Beach Club, Moon Beach Club
Segway: in Sierra Gelada National Park from €30 for 2 hour guided tour www.costablancatour. com l
Scuba diving – www. divingstones.com 5* PADI diving centre offering Beginners Diving Course at Benidorm Island from €70, which includes all tuition, equipment, boat transport etc with qualified trainers. Experienced dives from €30.
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Cable Ski: Levante Beach from €21 per hour (kids €13), €44 for 2 day course www.cableskibenidorm. com
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Theme Parks Some parks offer combined tickets (Mundomar & Aqualandia; Terra Natura and Aqua Natura). Top tip: All offer discounted fares for afternoon visits (Mundomar from €10) Mundomar: dolphin & sealion shows, animals, conservation & play areas. Swimming with the dolphins experience www.mundomar.es
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Aqualandia: largest waterpark in Europe www.aqualandia.net
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Terra Mitica attractions, rides & shows inspired by ancient Mediterranean civilisations www.terramiticabenidorm.com Terra Natura animals in natural settings, attractions, shows & rides, conservation & breeding programmes www.terranatura.com
Ones to watch Teeel - HyDROSTATIC There’s a space that exists in the Synth Pop world - though it is very small - where irony doesn’t exist, the word “retro” is gibberish, and the fun that is so obviously being had, isn’t at the expense of great songwriting and musicianship. This is the space Teeel inhabits. On Hydrostatic, Teeel (aka Jim Smith)’s third LP, and first on L.A.-based Mush Records, the New Jersey electronic music producer/songwriter continues to draw inspiration from the the films and synth pop acts of the 80s, but this time out, his voice is clearer, more confident, and his pop hooks are Ginsu sharp. Locked onto a signature sound and locked into solid grooves, Teeel’s Hydrostatic is loaded with tight pop songs dealing with typical universal themes of endless love and dancing (You’re Mine, Mygirl, Disk Go), but also includes anthems about intergalactic domination (Imperial), zombie invasion (Runners), and an interstellar rendezvous (Temple of The Sun) which are all equally as wonderful and catchy as the rest. The outlier here is “Living in The Lavender,” a silk sheets slow jam just as sexy as its title implies. On his debut, Amulet, Teeel showed he was a great producer capable of getting heads bobbing, toes tapping, and bodies bumping. On University Heights, he made it clear he could flex some genre-defying muscle and couldn’t care less about what was fashionable. On Hydrostatic, Smith has polished and perfected the Teeel sound, found his voice, and stretched his songwriting chops to create memorable pop songs you can now sing along to on the dancefloor, in your car, or at the nearest space port.
Quilla - Beautiful Hybrid With Beautiful Hybrid, Quilla delivers a much needed jolt of originality, optimism, and enthusiasm to indie pop/ dance/rock/whatever’s system. Quilla, the Brooklyn-based singer/ songwriter/producer/composer best known for powerful and wonderful vocal performances for Tiesto and others in the EDM scene, is a multi-talented, multifaceted, hyper literate singersongstress offering a fresh perspective, fascinating imagery, and songs befitting of the album title. The impressive layering, danceable rhythms, and cryptically appropriate lyrics of euro electro-tinged single, “A Million Broken Bikes” is as enigmatic and enthralling as the rest of the album. From Ooh-La-la chanteuse (Tous Les Jours), pop diva, noir jazz singer (Spare Me Your Judgement), and any manner of brilliant pop/indie/EDM/dancehall singer-songwriter, Beautiful Hybrid introduces the many sides and shades of Brooklyn singer, Quilla to no ill effects and magnificent results. Deserving of a seat at the same table where St. Vincent, Regina Spektor, Cat Power, and Alison Goldfrapp dish and dine, The Canadian-Peruvian Quilla changes pace, mood, shape, color, language, genre, and attitude with such aplomb, there is no telling what musical style she will end up being a superstar in - but there is little doubt she will be.
Main Pic by Harvey Robinson
Royal Blood by Casey Bowers
In far larger venues in far larger towns, bands twice as established and half as hot as Royal Blood are playing right now. This band aren’t messing around with “road-testing new material” or “proving it in the clubs.” If the cynics and haters hadn’t shut up by Friday night at The Basement in Columbus the Brighton duo’s combined heavy artillery blasts of drums n’ bass (of an entirely different nature) made sure to drown their frail cries out. Playing all the hits from their 4-song EP (Little Monster, Figure It Out, Hole, Out Of The Black) and previewing tracks sure to be singles from their soon-to-be released debut LP, Royal Blood didn’t disappoint. Damn the comparisons and damn the torpedoes, because it’s the age of Royal Blood and they’re out to destroy the innane notion that there is anything about them that is more important or newsworthy than the music they’re making. Mike Kerr (vox, bass) and Ben Thatcher (drums) are the 2-headed, four-armed monster of maximum straightforward rock n’ roll playing in shades of dark blue and black denim, set to take over the world, but far too busy rocking faces off on a nightly basis to be bothered with such foolishness. When a bass sounds like a guitar and a drum kit sounds like mountains exploding, the reaction is visceral, the urge is primal, and the sweet elation that follows and stays with you is only natural.
Royal Blood Ben, drummer and one half of the brilliantly heavy, loud and hardest rocking band in Brighton or anywhere else for that matter, Royal Blood took some time before soundcheck to talk with me about how we can expect a lot more of the same true blue heavy rock n roll on their new LP in August, why their first gig was so special, and what drink you can buy him at the end of the night.
your go-to summer music?
Casey (Flush): I was watching
Ben: I listen to a lot of pop and R&B,
Ben: No. We were just playing
Ben: Joey Nightmare. We played
light, horrible indie – like Minus the Bear, but with a girl vocalist. We were in a lot of bands though – good bands, having a lot of fun.
Flush: It’s summertime. What is
but I really think probably Foals or Vampire Weekend. Something light and bouncy – like Beach Boys too.
Flush: Royal Blood have this
massive, monstrous sound, what around because the piano was there. bands have influenced you most? You can expect straightforward rock Ben: There are so many. Queens n’ roll. Mike singing and playing bass, of the Stone Age have had a huge and me playing the drums. influence on us in both guitar and Flush: You’ve played small clubs drumming. Nirvana, Foo Fighters, and large festival stages, all within Black Sabbath, Biffy Clyro, early Muse 2 years time of forming the band. have all touched our What was your first gig like? sound.
Ben: Well, on the day we started
the band, Mike had a few ideas – 4 songs in rehearsal – we played just those 4 songs in a bar in Brighton that night with all our mates there. The place erupted. That show had a big impact on us.
Flush: You and Mike were in a lot
of different bands, playing different styles of music both separately and together. What was one the bands
Flush: And now
some of those bands are fans of yours. With the hype surrounding the band, did you gain any good advice from anyone about dealing with it?
Live photo: Harry Acosta
the album teaser and saw Mike playing the piano. Are fans going to be surprised by some of the sounds on this album?
you played in and what kind of music did you play?
We’ve been working our butts off and doing our best to put on great shows. That’s been our focus. The hype is background noise.
Ben: No. Not really. I can’t
remember the last time we had a
day off. We’ve been working our butts off and doing our best to put on great shows. That’s been our focus. The hype is background noise.
Flush: Finally, at the end of of
those great shows, at the end of the night – what is your drink of choice?
Ben: Gin & Tonic. Maybe,
depending how late it is at night, a Gin & Juice. Royal Blood are on their world tour right now and their debut LP, Royal Blood will be released on August 25 through Warner Bros.Records/ Black Mammoth Records
Nelsonville Mus
by Casey Bowers At best, music festivals can be the most wondrous, lifeaffirming/changing event in a music freak’s life. At worst, they can be an abysmal reminder of how easily the pure, live music experience can be corrupted by corporate greed and poor planning...
sic Festival 2014
Nelsonville Music Festival 2014
Thankfully, Nelsonville Music Festival (in Nelsonville, Ohio) belongs in the former category, offering musicheads the chance to see under-the-radar (for now + not long) exciting newcomers, over-the-hump non-traditional heavy hitters, and towering music legends. For the 2014 edition of the festival, this equated to an impressive lineup that boasted Dinosaur Jr., The Avett Brothers, Frank Turner, The Head & The Heart, Jason Isbell, Kurt Vile, and Shovels & Rope for headliners and starters. Still, it was the no-names and little-knowns who played earlier slots and smaller stages who ended up stealing the show and reminding the cool, curious crowd why music festivals still matter and just how mega amazing this one in particular can be. From its picturesque and pastoral setting to its collegiate ties and working class hometown HQ, everything about Nelsonville Music Festival seems too good to be true and feels utopian in both ideal and idea. Ten years later, it remains true to its core ideals and noble cause – protecting and preserving the legendary local music venue – The Stuart Opera House. Good causes are all well and good but the promise of ‘round the clock super fantastic music madness’ is what brought everyone here and NMF delivered in pounds and ounces throughout all four perfectly sunny days.
Stuart Opera House is a registered historic building in Nelsonville, Ohio, listed on the National Register on December 29, 1978. It is an Opera House and live music performance theatre that was built in 1879, and continues to be used to this day. For more information or to donate, visit http://www. stuartsoperahouse.org
NMF 2014 Breakthrough Performances & Standout Acts Jason Isbell
Balancing the sensitive tough guy image with southern gentleman charm, Jason Isbell, alt-country/ southern rock singer-songwriter (former Drive By Trucker) had an impressively packed crowd of fans sing along to his best known cuts from his 4-studio LP spanning solo career, but really proved his place in the schedule by gathering an even larger crowd of possible new fans attracted and won over by the white hot intensity of unforgettable playing, picking, and singing of choice Isbell songs like “Cover Me Up”, “Alabama Pines”, “Codeine,” and Isbell-penned DBT classics “Goddamn Lonely Love” and “Decoration Day.”
St. Paul and The Broken Bones “Sometimes, you gotta’ take it to church,” stated Paul Janeway, the electric, magnetic, and charismatic frontman of Birmingham, Alabama 7-piece soul band, St. Paul and The Broken Bones. And with apt acknowledgement, Janeway sanctified the stage with some bottled water, proceeded to
tear it up in his two-tone brogues and converted everyone within earshot and a decent view into true believers with The Broken Bones’ searing, soaring soul music done good and proper. Securing the right to the affectionate nickname “The White Otis Redding,” Paul closed it out and shut ‘em all down with a scorching cover of “Try A Little Tenderness.”
Saintseneca
They’re the first Columbus, Ohio band signed to ANTI Records for a reason. “Happy, Alone” is a hit here at home, it’s set to cross the desks of the Zane Lowes and Jools Hollands the world over, and already Saintseneca seem a tad bigger than their stage and modest set time. Running through most of their ANTI debut, Dark Arc and trading off instruments and stage positions, Zac Little and company are the most “now” band at Nelsonville.
The Head and The Heart
Many music fans more knowledgeable than I told me The Head and The Heart were the ones
Nelsonville Music Festival 2014
to look out for, but admittedly, I was indifferent going in. Much to my wonderful surprise, the Seattle Sub Pop indie folk sextet were amazing and perfect for this festival. Emotional lyrics and muscular musicianship, joyful and beautiful to a fault, The Head and The Heart won me over with their easy going, foot stomping, heart on sleeve sing-alongs about life, love, and loss. Affable frontman, Josiah Johnson summed it up nicely, saying “You’ve got a good thing going here. I don’t know if you know this, but music festivals aren’t usually this good.You all got it figured out.”
Kurt Vile & The Violators
The charming strumming of this volatile freak-folk sneaker gazing yeah, yeah, yeah’er, and his lethargic vocal delivery crashes consistently with his swirling, spiral staircase of crayon colored chords and heartbreaking American beauty. Dually conveying the importance of emptiness and the emptiness of
importance, whether you chronically care too much or not enough, Kurt Vile cover all bases, bruised and sore.
Dinosaur Jr.
This is who most rock fans came to see at Nelsonville Music Fest – either out of the whole 4 days or those who just bought the Friday ticket – and the life altering legendary indie rock power trio did not disappoint. Ripping and shredding through the fan favorites (including The Cure cover “Just Like Heaven”) from their influential and historic catalog (while blending in equally impressive post-reunion wouldbe hits) you couldn’t tell if J Mascis was happy, sad, or all business, but that only added to his mega-indie icon mystique. Meanwhile, Lou and Murph more than made up for it with highly energetic, enthusiastic, and animated motions and maneuvers that all others that have come since and after Dino, copy from the titans of ear-bleeding rock n’ roll. Positively mind-meltingly awesome.
All festival pics by Harry Acosta
Saintseneca Interview Zac Little is the lead singer and songwriter of Columbus, Ohio-based indie/folk/pop/rock/whatever band, Saintseneca and main creative force behind Dark Arc, the band’s 3rd studio album and 1st with ANTIRecords. Working with acclaimed producer, Mike Mogis (Bright Eyes, Monsters of Folk, She & Him), Saintseneca have moved from rough and rustic and already overcrowded indie folk scene (that never felt like a fit anyway) into a brave, experimental, pop-infused landscape - though they still call Ohio home. Between early afternoon and mid afternoon sets, I talked to Zac about gaining pop perspective, losing
the Mumford factor battle, and accepting the truth about music authorship in the 21st century.
Casey(Flush): You have strong ties
to the local music community and you still call Columbus home - which both impresses and mystifies people. Was it important to you to not to “go L.A.” or move to Brooklyn, or any other scene city?
Zac: Yeah, I considered moving to
New York or somewhere else, but I’m happy to be doing these things from anywhere and I think if I could be immersed in this project, in music and I had my choice, I’d want to be in Columbus. It’s been such a nurturing place and I want to be there to see the music community develop.
C: Can you talk about the move to
ANTI- and re-recording Dark Arc with Mike Mogis?
Zac: Yeah, we had recorded and
mixed the record with Glen Davis (of Columbus band, Way Yes) and through ANTI-, we met Mike (Mogis) and we were able to add a lot of things to those songs - different pieces and parts.
C: Do you feel the recorded version
with Mike is a more realized version or just more polished?
Zac: I don’t know. It’s hard to
compare the two, I guess. We continued to record and re-track some stuff with Mike, and add a lot of things I had ideas for - like, a particular drum part - which was cool. A lot of the things that came about later with Mike wouldn’t have
Nelsonville Music Festival 2014
happened without Glen. I’m happy with the work we did. The final iteration feels true to the whole project, even though it sounds totally different - I think the the spirit is the same.
I think I always heard that part from a female voice or POV. So, when we had the opportunity to do it again, I thought “A-ha! That’s what I want to do.” Maryn has such a great voice. I had heard her singing in other bands C: The lyrics of Dark Arc make for very in that upper register and it’s kind of vivid imagery. I’m curious, are the fragile but really compelling, and songs on this album more sensational I was excited to have her sing that or autobiographical? part.
Zac: I’d say autobiographical, but
the thing is, is even if you’re writing to a character in fiction, you’re going to hear the author’s voice. That’s how I see it. I can accept being a conduit for whatever comes out.
C: Okay. Well, since these
songs on this album are more autobiographical, are you concerned about listeners’ song interpretations being too close or far too skewed?
Zac: I think that’s one of the things
about songwriting. A word or phrase that makes up a lyric can inhabit and have a number of meanings. It’s fascinating to me, because sometimes it feels more true when it inhabits a number of meanings instead of this sole, authoritative stance.
C: Speaking of writing, how did
the blending of your vocals and [Saintseneca group member] Maryn Jones’ come about on “Fed Up With Hunger?” What was that process like?
Zac: That’s a good example of a
song that shifted in recording with Mike. We had tracked that song with Glen originally and it was just my voice. When the record was done, I thought it was great, but in my mind
C: Everyone talks about indie folk as
being pop now, with the “Mumford factor,” there are a lot of bands for better or worse that get tied to that sound. How do you feel about that? Do you feel connected to that scene or think it’s more of a cop-out?
Zac: No, no, no. It’s funny and a little
frustrating. I’m not mad about it, but so consistently, people will be like “but they’re not like Mumford and Sons.” It’s like saying “Don’t think about pink elephants” because that immediately pops in your head. So, even when you’re trying to draw a reference and say, “but they’re so not like them,” it still influences what you think. I don’t know, I don’t care. I can’t control it. I think if you listen to the music, it’s pretty clear we don’t sound like that, but whatever. People are allowed to have whatever point of reference they want, so, it’s cool.
C: The name of this album is Dark Arc and it deals, at least on some levels, with dark subjects, but it sounds much more joyful and poppy.
Zac: Yeah, it’s more pop. C: It’s deceptively menacing,
though. What’s the first song you heard that fits that description and
you found inspiration from?
Zac: This isn’t necessarily one that I
was using as a reference or directly inspired me - although, maybe subconsciously - but, “Maxwell’s Silver Hammer” by The Beatles.
C: Yeah? Nice. Zac: It’s kind of a silly song, but it’s kind of sick. I think that’s a good example.
C: That’s a very good example!
Finally, what are you listening to right now?
Zac: Galaxie 500. I love the textures, great melodies, and such a cool voice.
For some reason, I missed the boat on that and I heard a song from them and was like “What is this?” That’s kind of been my jam.
C: Nice. Are you doing the evolution and moving to Luna next?
Zac: I don’t know. What is it?
Apparently, I’m not informed.
C: Luna was Dean Wareham’s
post-Galaxie 500 band. If you like the textures and “Lou Reed” vibe of Galaxie, you might dig Luna. Great late night listening.
Zac: Sweet. I’ll have to check it out. www.saintseneca.com
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Coastal Dreams Head South from Miami, Florida and no matter what, eventually you’ll end up in Key West. Wave the City limits goodbye and as you go watch the unfolding urban landscape turn to lush green everglades. Further along Highway 1 the land narrows as you leave the mainland and you’ll see Manatee Bay to your left and Long Sound to your right, you’ll pass diving and fishing equipment specialists, roadside gift shops, T-shirt outlets galore and the aroma of free spirits fills the air. Turn right at Key Largo, and about halfway from Miami to Key West is Islamorada, a ‘village of islands’ in Monroe County. If like us you’re in a relaxed mood it’s the perfect place to stop off and slow down life’s busy pace a little...
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We stayed at Cheeca Lodge, an über-luxurious five star resort, just off the Highway. Immaculate in every way there are plenty of facilities to enjoy here, including Golf (not just any course, a 9 hole Jack Nicklaus designed one), Tiki Bar, Sea Kayaks, Tennis Courts, Spa and Exercise classes, Fitness Studio, (two) heated Swimming Pools and one Saltwater Lagoon. I could go on but there would be no room for anything else. What’s good about Cheeca Lodge is that most things are also included with your daily resort fee $39 (about £23). We’re offered complimentary
Champagne on arrival at reception, and not long after another bottle, together with a plate of nibbles arrives at our room. Guest satisfaction is definitely a top priority at Cheeca. Our room is fantastic, we have stunning ocean views, two huge double beds and a circular bath on the balcony, it is very indulgent, but > also very worth it.
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There are varied dining options in the resort, including a first class sushi bar and Limoncello, a Tuscan inspired Italian dining room. We headed out to explore and virtually straight across the highway is the Lorelei Restaurant & Cabana Bar a great little venue, half outdoors/ half indoors kind of place that co-incidentally Mirka from the Miami Culinary Tours had recommended to us a few days earlier. If you end up here, try the coconut shrimps, huge and tasty and almost worth the trip to Florida alone. Oh, and if you do head out to one of the local diners or bars, someone from Cheeca Lodge will happily drop
you off and come and pick you up again for free, just ask. The next morning we borrow a couple of fishing rods and head to the end of the pier with a pack of giant shrimp as bait. After 15 minutes we’ve landed a strange looking thing that turns out to be a rare puffer fish. Cheeca Lodge holds regular fishing tournaments and the waters round here are teaming with record breaking size sailfish, marlin, wahoo and tuna. The restaurant will gladly cook any fish you catch, but our puffer is a bit too bony so we toss the little fella back to fight another day.
Islamorada
Cheeca Lodge 81801 Overseas Highway Marker 82 Islamorada, Florida 33036 http://www.cheeca.com Lorelei Restaurant & Cabana Bar Mile Marker 82, Bayside Islamorada, FL 33036 http://loreleicabanabar.com
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The road from Islamorada to Key West is spectacular, and best done early in the morning when the traffic is light and the sun is just coming up. You’ll see villas surrounded by palm tress and lush vegatation nestled in little coves together, crumbling bridges parallel alongside the highway and huge pelicans gliding the airstreams. Our trip to Key West coincides with Fantasy Fest, a yearly festival held in October that attracts swingers, exhibitionists, and general hedonistic partygoers to the town. Things get pretty racy as the day goes on, so as we’re travelling with our young daughter we get in early and escape
before things get too wild. A word of caution, if you do roll up to Key West without a plan it’s easy to get sucked into the bar scene and Key West is a VERY good place to let off steam. Just remember there is a good chance you’ll wake up naked on the beach three days later with a serious hangover and a bad tattoo. Away from the parties, there is plenty of culture to be found in the Conch Republic and Hemmingway > House is definitely one place to
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visit. Bought for him by his then wife’s Father, apparently the author chose the property because of its proximity to the adjacent lighthouse (so he could find his way home after a boozy night). This is where he wrote 80% of his books and the majority of his most famous ones. Kept close to how it was in Hemmingway’s day it’s an interesting insight into the life and mind of the author. The gardens are home to about 60 cats, all related to the ones that lived here in Hemmingway times, unusually they all have six toes on each foot. In the garden is a water fountain made from a urinal from his favourite watering hole, the famous ‘Sloppy Joes’ bar. By the way if you do go to a bar, try a Bloody Mary, almost everyone claims to do the best in town, so the standard should be pretty high. There is also a cool radio station in these parts, called ‘Pirate’ that plays lots of British guitar music, which for some reason always sounds better on US soil. Another thing to do is go on the Conch Train, a tourist bus that looks like a train and visits all the places of interest, including the most Southernly point in the US, just 90m miles from
Cuba. The drivers are very slick with the commentary, but it’s interesting stuff and this tip of America has more history than most of the other 49 states. Sometimes being a proper tourist is fun too. Key West is, or has been home to some cool people and among the 25,000 homeowners are fashion icons Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. In addition to Hemmingway, Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote also had property here at one time. Hemmingway’s Home 907 Whitehead St, Key West, FL 33040 Tel 305-294-1136 www. hemingwayhome.com Fantasy Fest www.fantasyfestmemories.com For more information on Key West visit www.fla-keys.co.uk
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FT LAUDERDALE We’re on a tight schedule so we head North back up the coast straight past Miami and flop down in Ft Lauderdale. If you have kids one place to go here is the Museum of Discovery and Science www.mods. org, a bit like an American version of the Science Museum in London. There are lots of interactive exhibits and it’s easy to spend a day just wandering around, or you can watch a 3D movie on the 5-story
high iMax screen. Ft Lauderdale is a good place to get your shopping ‘game’ on too and there is a number of big outlet centres, including the 1.4 million square foot Galleria. In addition to the top end retailers, there are plenty of bargains to be had too, and you’re never too far away from a book of discount vouchers. We stayed at an old-school 50’s style Motel, Vistamar Villa, owned by John, a Canadian who used to be a banker in London. He runs the place with a relaxed friendly rhythm and the rooms are comfy and come complete with a cooker, fridge and there’s also a BBQ by the pool if you fancy a couple of steaks. Situated at the far end of the beach just 5 mins away from North Atlantic Blvd (the main promenade) it’s slightly away from the tourist bars, the big hotels, Hooters etc and all the better for it. There is a washing machine and dryer behind the back wall that takes quarters, and if you want to just kick back the garden is lush and the pool warm enough to let the day while > away naturally.
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If you get peckish meander down to Primanti Brothers on North Atlantic Blvd, a sister restaurant to the famous Pittsburgh diner. It’s open 24hrs a day and a huge slice of their delicious fresh pizza is only $2.49, or try one of their burgers with everything (including coleslaw and fries) in the bun. It gets very busy and is hugely popular with the local bikers, which is always a good sign. Another place open 24hrs a day is The Floridian, here the food is home cooked and wholesome and they’ve been serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, 24/7 in the same place for the last 63 years. Someone at “The Flo” has a serious Marilyn Monroe obsession as there are hundreds of pictures of her on the walls. Some of the more exclusive parts of Ft Lauderdale are divided by large canals and water inlets, it’s a bit like a millionaires’ version of the Norfolk Broads, and some of the properties have huge luxury yachts moored up outside. Don’t get me wrong, it’s no Wroxham, but with the sun shining and lush greenery all around, it’s hard not to feel a tiny bit of boat envy.
Galleria 2414 East Sunrise Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304 www.galleriamall-fl.com Vistamar Villa 2901 Vistamar Street Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304-4017 www.vistamarvilla.com Primanti Bros 901 North Atlantic Blvd. Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304 www.primantibros.com The Floridian 1410 E Las Olas Blvd, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301 +1 954463-4041 The drive from Ft Lauderdale to St Augustine is a long one (nearly 300 miles). Most sensible people would stop overnight on the way, and a good place to rest is Melbourne. It’s a smallish city, but you can skirt around it and there is some funky retro Motels along the coast road that still have a healthy slice of 50’s Americana to them. Melbourne is also the place where they filmed parts of ‘Stranger than Paradise’, so it is instantly cool in my book.
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St Augustine In September 2015, St Augustine will celebrate 450 years as the the oldest continually occupied European settlement in the United States. Who said the USA had no history? It’s here in abundance and there are many places that celebrate St Augustine’s rich past within the old town area. Castillo de San Marcos Worth a look is Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fort in the US. It was built by the Spanish in 1672 and renamed Fort St Mark when the British wrestled Florida from Spain in 1763. Just twenty years later Florida was transferred back to the Spanish, but by 1821 had become American and the fort was used as a US Army base (Fort
Marion). It doesn’t end there though as in 1933 the fort was deactivated from military use and in 1942 given back it’s regional name. It’s history is well documented on the site, and the fort a good access point for kids (and adults) to get interested in the colourful history of Florida. For the salty sea dogs in your group, visit ‘The Pirate & Treasure Museum’, containing a huge collection of pirate artefacts, there are treasure hunts for the kids and all kinds of mischief to be had (and it’s across the road from Castillo de San Marco). Colonial Quarter Experience life in the 16th, 17th and 18th Century through living history demonstrations and immersive storytelling bringing the past of America’s oldest city to life. St George St is steeped in nostalgia and there are some excellent trolley bus tours, including one to the Lighthouse on Anastasia Island. IF you have a romantic bone or two, take a horse drawn carriage through the historic downtown district to properly savour the atmosphere.
Alligator Farm A fun place to visit in St Augustine is the Aligator Farm, they seem to have every type of Aligator and Crocodile, from big to very big. Also on display are some weird Exotic Brids and a rare Komodo Dragon. You can buy a little bag of food and go over the river on a walkway while hundreds of the things follow you around. One word of advice. If you drop your > camera, just leave it there.
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We stayed just out of town in a place called Beachers Lodge, a nice condo-hotel located on Crescent Beach. All rooms have a kitchen and the pool is heated all year round. If you want to eat some good food and meet friendly locals, go to Kings Bistro (7 Pellicer Ln). It’s only open on Fri, Sat and Sunday, and is run by Mike, a construction worker (and Vietnam Vet) who does all the cooking and his lovely wife Judy who does all the hosting. You might need to book as there is only room for about 25 people and everyone stays all night. We were lucky to squeeze in. It’s a bit like being guests in their house, and if you like Karaoke, you’ll love it as everyone gets up and does a turn to serenade you through dinner. If you don’t you won’t by pressured either. Mike is full of stories, and it’s even more special as they’re not doing it for the money, just because they love it. You might leave Kings Bistro a bit hoarse, but you are guaranteed to leave with new friends. Castillo de San Marcos 1 S Castillo Dr, St Augustine, FL 32084, United States The Pirate & Treasure Museum 12 S Castillo Drive St. Augustine, FL 32084 http://www.piratesoul.com/
Alligator Farm 999 Anastasia Blvd. St. Augustine, FL 32080 Phone: (904) 824-3337 www.alligatorfarm.com Kings Bistro 7 Pellicer Ln, St Augustine, FL 32084 For information on all things in St Augustine visit www.floridashistoriccoast.com Beachers Lodge www.beacherslodge.com
All of the places we visited are within easy reach of either Miami or Orlando airports. For up to date tourist information on all aspects of Florida go to www.visitflorida.com
my(kind of)hotel From past experiences of hotels labelling themselves as ‘Boutique’, I’ve learned you can never be quiet sure what you’re going to get. Often, it can just mean ‘expensive’ or worse, ‘bad and expensive’. Thankfully this is not the case at the four-star myhotel Bloomsbury, this is ‘Boutique’ in the real sense of the word.
Situated on Bayley Street, a quiet inlet from the fast flowing Tottenham Court Road (and only 2 mins from the tube) the Hotel is in a prime location from which to explore central London. If it’s shopping you’re after, Oxford Street is less than 5 minutes walk, Theatreland, Shaftesbury Avenue and Soho are all on the doorstep and the British Musuem is just round the corner too. If you can buy it or do it, you can buy it
or do it close to this Hotel. Billed as “where Freddie Mercury meets the Maharishi”, a big part of myhotel Bloomsbury’s appeal is its mix of plush designer furniture and lighthearted spiritual ambience . There is a playfulness to the decoration and you get the impression the owners want guests to feel relaxed, energised and have fun staying here. I was surprised to learn the Hotel had 78 Bedrooms as it feels really cosy. Aapparently each room is unique and some at the top have balconies with views over Bedford Square. In my room (room 101) above the fridge is a spectacular crystal agate, presumably sending out positive energy waves as I sleep. For those not wanting to leave modern day behind there is also a 3D TV with movies, and a shiny new iMac in the corner connected to free Wi-Fi. Egyptian cotton sheets envelope the bed, which is too comfy by far and big enough for at least two more people.
Meanwhile the bathroom is modern and immaculate, I like the eco traffic light pod er, ‘thing’ that glows different colours to remind you to save water
my(kind of)hotel
and not stay in the shower all day. It might be lost on most people, but I noticed it, so maybe others do too. The spirituality message spreads down to the dedicated treatment suite at the bottom of the building, inspired by the ancient Japanese religion of Shinto. Here guests can enjoy a Jinja wellbeing couple massage (£90 for 100mins) or any number of pampering treatments to, wax, rub or sooth the city streets
from your mind, body (and feet). Meanwhile after a good nights sleep, Bib Gourmand-winning Gail’s Kitchen does a spectacularly good continental breakfast (try GAIL’s gorgeous granola with yoghurt and sourdough toast). If you fancy a nibble, the room service menu is pretty tasty too. Recommended are the Squid, chickpeas, herbs, labneh and grilled bread for £7.50. They also serve Meantime Beer, a favourite of mine from my days living in Greenwich. myhotel Bloomsbury is a friendly, unpretentious oasis of calm in a bustling part of central London that ticks all the right boxes then adds a few more just for good measure. Check out their website www. myhotels.com for the latest deals, I saw a £170 per night offer including breakfast and a special VIP Shopping Pass for 10-20% off in various stores at Westfield Shepherds Bush. myhotel Bloomsbury 11-13 Bayley St Bedford Square, London 020 3004 6000
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Sensational Salgados! Time flies indeed and this years World Cup in Brazil seems like ages ago already. While the home team didn’t cut the mustard on the pitch, the street food found in Brazil’s markets will have impressed many of the 600,000+ fans who came to watch the tournament and soak up the unique South American atmosphere. Known as Salgados (the Portugese for savoury snacks) Brazilian street food comes in all shapes and sizes. Here is our guide to some of the best…
1: Carne Seca The Municipal market in Sao Paulo is famed for its meat sandwiches made with Carne Seca – sun dried meat - and Mortadella sausages. Known as Carne de Sol in some regions, the dried meat is rumoured to have been invented by locals who wanted to preserve the meat in the arid Brazilian countryside.
2: Pão de Queijo (cheese bread) Eaten across Brazil, these highly addictive doughballs are especially popular in one of the World Cup host cities, Belo Horizonte, where they’re served straight from the oven and often made in several batches throughout the day. Hot and full of flavour.
3: Açai This super fruit starts as a very bitter palm berry, but is sweetened to make a delicious dessert or healthy snack. In Rio, it comes in a large cup with granola sprinkled on top, either for breakfast or a treat in the afternoon. Served cold like a yoghurt, cariocas (natives of Rio) usually prefer it with a lot of sugar. 4: Pamonhas Eaten sweet or savoury, these dumplings are made from corn. Savoury Pamonhas are filled with cheese, minced meat, chicken or peppers, while sweet Pamonhas are stuffed with ground coconut. The Pamonha vendors are often seen walking down the street playing triangles, or driving cars full of Pamonhas while blasting tunes through loudspeakers.
Sensational Salgados!
5: Acarajé One of the most popular street foods in Salvador, this is a deep-fried bread made from mashed beans. The mash is fried in dendé oil and then eaten with camarão (small sundried shrimp), pimenta (hot pepper sauce) or vatapá (a paste made from shrimp, peanuts, cashews and coconut milk). In Salvador you’ll see Baianas de Acarajé (Acarajé vendors) everywhere, usually dressed in white, standing by tables spread with a spicy and exotic assortment of Salvador’s local version of fast-food.
6:Beijinho de Coco Brazilian coconut truffles are a cheap, sweet national delicacy. Sugary, buttery and chewy, they are a favourite among Brazilian children (not popular with Jamie Oliver though =] )
7: Moqueca de camarão This stew consists principally of shrimp, dendé oil and coconut milk (along with a mixture of other ingredients in accordance with regional styles and the cook’s personal preferences). Sometimes the strong dendé oil is left out of the dish, but to true Brazilians it’s an essential ingredient. 8: Tacacá This is a Tucupi based soup common to Northern Brazil and sold by street vendors and local restaurants. It often contains shrimp and jambu (a native, sharp tasting tree fruit)
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soup-er troopers I love a can of cold coke now and again, but I’m always disappointed by the lack of decent healthy alternatives available at the chilled drinks cabinet. That’s why I’ve become a big fan of ¡Cho!, a new range of bottled gazpacho inspired by a love of Spain, good living and good friendships.
soup-er troopers
I spoke to Adam Baker (above), one half of the brains behind the drinks, to find out more...
How did ¥Cho! first come about? Cho is the result of a combined love of different & interesting foods and a desire to create fresh and healthy Mediterranean flavours & bring them to the UK. I have lived on & off in Southern Spain since I was little, my parents were early Andalucian pioneers in the 1960’s & gazpacho was always a big part of the simple diet all the family thrived on. More recently I had returned to Andalucia with Karen, my wife, & found a rural home in Cabo de Gata, one of the last unspoiled & truly wild areas of Almeria. It was there that we met Alejandro Sanchez, then a young chef with a tiny, but brilliant restaurant where we regularly went to enjoy amazing food, often kicked off with a fruit gazpacho.
He would make fresh shots of watermelon or strawberry gazpacho to wake up the taste buds for the meal to come, and we couldn’t get enough! We became great friends with Alex and we convinced him to help us create recipes to make fruit gazpachos as drinks, Cho is short for Gazpacho!
How long did it take from that initial idea until the first bottle was on a shelf?
It took the best part of two years to complete the journey, Alex had created over 10 amazing recipes, but we had to find a maker and packer, so we travelled together all over Andalucia with Ernesto Carrere, our now head of operations in Spain and eventually found an excellent, artisan gazpacho makers, way up in the hills below Granada. We literally knocked on their door and asked them to make gazpacho for
new and unexpected comes and smacks you in the face! The easy bits are introducing Cho to the great British public, the hard bits are trying to convince a tired supply chain that savoury drinks are the way to go, the public are so savvy these days and they want new and interesting things, but the food industry is a big tanker with a big turning circle and doesn’t respond quickly to new trends and desires for healthier eating and less sugar in our food. It’s all hard work! us. Then while Ernesto found a local bottling plant, we turned our attention back to the UK to find a partner who could help us create the brand. We went straight to Dave Brown, K&I had met Dave when Fantastic, our event production company designed and produced some big stuff for him back in the early naughties, apart from being a great bloke, Dave has an incredible talent and unique history creating identities for world leading brands. Dave took one look at Cho and said “I’m in!” After that it took another year of his brilliant input to get the branding created through focus grouping and trialing. Dave took an idea at sample stage and made it into ¡Cho!.
What do you think was the hardest part of the process?
With a completely new and original product, entering into a market that has no existing place for you means that every day brings a new challange, and just when I think that it couldnt get any harder something
How healthy are the drinks?
We use whole, fresh produce to make Cho. Thats what makes us unique, we literally go to the market and buy fresh, ripe tomatoes & peppers, then blend them with other fresh fruit and veg, add extra virgin olive oil from the local cooperative and mountain spring water that comes right out of the ground, so our recipes are seasonal and colours will vary according to the amount of sun the fruit has had. Cho is made by hand so we taste as we go along to keep flavours consistent, we don’t use industrial pulps that 99% of other products are made from. We don’t add supplements to Cho, the goodness comes from the fresh ingredients so every bottle of Cho has 2 of the daily recommended portions of fruit & vegetables with the added benefit of olive oil, this is the thing that makes Cho different from a juice or other drink as the combination of olive oil and vegetables creates our unique healthy balance. Olive oil is proven to be one of the healthiest
soup-er troopers
things you can eat as part of a balanced diet, and all the veg we use have other great properties like lycopenes in the tomatoes, antioxidants in the beetroot. Cho ingredients make up the essential elements of the Mediterranean diet, and that’s just old school healthy living!
What is your fav flavour?
My favourite Cho is the Tomato and Strawberry, I could live on it! Its all the best bits of gazpacho with 20% strawberries blended in. Its like a summer salad in a bottle & mums love it because it has 1/3 of the sugar typically found in juices of smoothies so it’s great for little ones!
Do you have any plans to sell any more flavours or expand to
other products in the future?
Absolutely! We will be sneaking in short run flavours in 2015 as we have been working on a new production facility that allows us to make small, hand bottled orders, and the most popular of these will doubtless end up as regular Cho recipes, so look out for winter Cho and summer specialities.
Oh, and where is the best place to get Gazpachio in Spain?
Almeria without a doubt, my favourite gazpacho is made in a tiny, but bustling beachside restaurant in San Jose, Cabo de Gata & served in a balloon glass over ice - it rocks my world! For more info on Cho visit www.chogazpacho.com or follow them on Twitter @ChoGazpacho
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To The Manor Born The Carlton School of Food
Yorkshire has been having something of a renaissance lately, long gone are the tired, flat cap and whippet stereotypes of old. It’s official, Yorkshire is an exciting and vibrant County, full of unspoiled natural beauty, historic towns, and wonderful things to do like going to The Carlton School of Food, a new gourmet venture at the ancestral house of the Duke of Norfolk, Carlton Towers.
The current residence of Lord and Lady Gerald Fitzalan Howard, Carlton Towers was built in the 17th Century, extended in the 18th and 19th centuries, and now with the guidance of respected food writer and chef, Elaine Lamm the large kitchen and adjacent rooms have been lovingly restored to accommodate the Carlton School of Food. It’s been a sensitive renovation allowing the spaces to retain all of their historic period features, with modern facilities discreetly incorporated.
Elaine is passionate about her vision for the schools future, and sees it as a place where people come to learn about seriously good food and have fun while doing it. Not wanting to pander to gimmicks or ‘celebrity chefs’, over the coming months a diverse selection of classes will give students the opportunity to master a range of cooking skills and cuisines. The courses include a series of ‘Eat Like a Local’ classes, the first of which by Louise MCrimmon focuses on Moroccan food. Another later in the
Hansa Dabhi
year, ‘Gujarati Cooking’ with Hansa Dabhi unravels some of the secrets behind the mainly vegetarian dishes from the western India state. Carlton Executive Chef, Richard WaltonAllen will run ‘Back to Basics with Fish’ and there are many more on the way including a range of children’s classes, jam and chutney making and the great British Pie (count me in). A big part of the Schools charm is in the stunning location, and attendees from further afield can
To The Manor Born The Carlton School of Food
Lord Gerald Fitzalan Howard with some of the Carlton School of Food team
take advantage of the excellent accommodation suites situated in the Stately Home itself. I headed over the border and spent an evening at one of the first classes, a ‘Wild Cooking’ evening with Josh Sutton, the ‘Guyrope Gourmet’. Once arrived we made our way to a secluded spot within the large grounds of the main house in a trailer on the back of a tractor. Josh combines a mixture of story-telling, songs and cookery
demonstrations around the campfire, including how to skin a rabbit and how to turn an old army munitions box into a smoker that works brilliantly on fish. With the early Summer sun setting over the fields and with the help of the Cartlon School’s experts, Guy serves up 3 courses of gastronomic delights cooked around the campfire in their very own atmospheric wooden dining lodge. Incidentally all the ingredients including some succulent Venison are sourced close to the school and the rabbits are caught by the resident Carlton Towers
Josh Sutton AKA ‘The Guyrope Gourmet’
gameskeeper. Oh, and the wine was good too. Most people attending my evening are local couples interested in learning more about the techniques and enjoying good food in the process. The atmosphere is informal and friendly and I felt just as comfortable mingling in on my own. Even Lord Gerald popped along with the dog to say hi, share a glass of wine and see how things are going. After more stories from Josh and another glass of wine, I realise it’s Midnight and head back to the main house to snuggle up in one of the rooms set aside for guests. The next morning I wander along the portrait
lined hallway and down the staircase to enjoy breakfast in the Bow Drawing Room. It’s the nearest I’ll get to being Lord of the Manor, so I make the most of it. Courses are from £30, overnight stays can be arranged for an extra charge. For full details on current courses visit www.cooksatcarlton.co.uk
Mamounia Lounge by Manasi Kumar
London’s Mayfair is practically synonymous with fine-dining, you can barely move for danger of falling over the discreet entrance of high-end establishments like Angela Hartnett’s Murano, Nobu, Marani etc with a few wealthy embassies thrown in for good measure....
So when asked to review Mamounia Lounge, nestled smack in the middle of Mayfair, it was a no-brainer of a decision to hobnob with the glamorous elite. The vibe in Mamounia Lounge is quite different to the more classic high-end restaurants in Mayfair, the International set already in place here appear to be fuelling up before a big night ahead, at the Shisha tables set out in front or drinking cocktails at the opulent bar. The décor is set at smouldering Arabian nights; it’s all dark woods, copper decorations and deep reds and purples, lighting set to very dim, just enough to make out groups of friends and some very beautiful looking cocktails. The food is Moroccan and Lebanese, set out in a bewilderingly long menu that takes us a while to navigate. I’m very taken by the long list of mezze dishes, but my friend is equally taken with the thought of a slow cooked rich meaty Tagine, to
complement the smooth red that is disappearing at an alarming rate on a Tuesday evening. In the end, we opt for it all! We kick off with a selection of mezze – smoky, mouth-watering Moutabel, fresh and light Mango salad, crispy shelled Falafel and nutty garlicky Mohammara, all mopped up with a side of bread. It’s very easy to tell which are our favourites are – these are the ones we keep spooning more helpings on our plate, while still halfway through a mouthful. The Moutabel is silky and smooth and at one point I actually stop eating bread and just start scooping it up with a spoon. The Mango salad is fresh and delicate and I’m actually disappointed when we don’t manage to finish it. The Mohammara is a new dish fo sr me and it’s a little too rich for a starter but it’s so garlicky and spicy that I wish I had an ice cold glass of sauvignon blanc to wash it all down with. The Falafels are the only item that doesn’t
Mamounia Lounge dance off the plate – they’re perfectly acceptable but just don’t have the wow factor of the other dishes. We linger over the mezze for so long, continually nibbling at elements that we’re almost quite reluctant to have them take away what we couldn’t manage, but when my grilled tiger prawns arrive on the table, I’m quite glad they did! These are meaty and juicy and with a hint of garlic, they’re just the right portion size considering how much we’ve already put away. The lamb tagine is rich and tender, a little too rich for me, but its being enthusiastically forked up my friend along with a side of buttery couscous so there’s no complaints there. Although you wouldn’t think we could possibly fit any more in, I’m swayed by the waiter’s description of the chocolate fondant as he comes over to try and persuade us to have dessert – I’m so easily talked into
things that I’m soon also talked into a platter of fresh berries to complement the chocolate and contribute to my five-a-day. The berries are a little too cold and should have been taken out of the fridge a little earlier but the chocolate fondant certainly lived up to the hype – and with me, praise can go no higher. As we head out the door with the clock inching towards 11, the staff are surprised to see that we’re not staying on for music & dancing, but this is Tuesday night and already well past my bedtime. Will I come back? Yes, but I’ll bring a group of friends, get ordering those cocktails and party Mayfair style till dawn. Mamounia Lounge 37A Curzon Street, Mayfair, London W1J 7TZ www.facebook.com/ MamouniaLoungeMayfair 020 7629 2211
WEEKEND ESCAPES
AldebuRgh, SUFFOLK
The White Lion
Despite its proximity to my home in Norfolk, for some reason whenever I cross into Suffolk, it feels like a million miles away. There are hills for a start, and once you get past Lowestoft the coast is scattered with old English seaside towns and villages, relatively unspoilt by modern day life. Take Aldeburgh, there might be Wi-Fi on the High Street, but a stout determination to retain it’s character means it has changed very little over the past 100 years or so, which for me is a big part of it’s appeal.
There are two fabulous fish and chips shops at either end, and the queues spiral out of the door every night of the week. If you’re wondering which one is best, they are both owned by the same family, so they both are. On this occasion we’d ventured into Aldeburgh at the invitation of the White Lion, a 38 bedroom seafront Hotel with a growing reputation for its excellent food and a forthcoming programme of foodie events to more than whet the appetite. Our room for the night has a modern bathroom and gorgeous panoramic sea views. I don’t know
why it’s so appealing, maybe it’s the sound of the waves, or the way it’s sheer massiveness gives our lives a context, but to be able to wake up in the morning and look out at the sea is one of life’s great pleasures. Location wise this is about as good as you can get in Aldeburgh, two minutes from the High St and opposite the fisherman’s huts, and pebble beach. The White Lion also faces East so if you’re up early you can watch the sun rise too. For the tank-tops out there, Aldeburgh is knee deep into Adnams beer territory; it’s brewed just up
the road in Southwold and is even better fresh from the barrel. For keen aficionado’s some of the local pubs also serve their top secret experimental beers ‘Jack Brand’ on tap too. Double bubble. For me Aldebrugh is a pottering kind of place, but if you have the energy a fun thing to do with kids is hire a Canoe, Kayak or Paddleboard
from www.ikencanoe.co.uk at Iken Cliff and head down the river Alde in search of Otters and rare birds. Prices start from £10 per hour. A short drive away is the wonderful, but Prisoner-esque Thorpness. Built as a ‘Fantasy holiday Village’ in 1910 by Glencairn Stuart Ogilvie it’s home to about 400 people many of whom use it as a weekend holiday base.
White Lion Head Chef, Ben Hegarty
WEEKEND ESCAPES
AldebuRgh, SUFFOLK
The White Lion
It gets very busy in the Summer, especially when the regatta is on the Meare at the end of August. It’s also home to ‘The House in the Clouds’ built, one can only assume by someone with an irrational fear of flooding. If you are a keen golfer, the Golf club is reckoned to be one of the best coastal courses in the UK. Back in Aldeburgh, within easy walking distance down the beach is ‘The Scallop’, a tribute to Benjamin Britten (who lived here) by Suffolk sculptor Maggi Hambling. It manages to look different depending on the time of day or weather, sometimes it has a shimmery silvery blue hue, or a muted grey. It’s always beautiful though. The White Lion has just appointed a new Head Chef, Ben Hegarty and he’s built the menu around the
abundance of seafood available locally. Mussels come from the river Deben, crabs sourced from Cromer, meanwhile the Hotel use free range meat from Halesworth and Dingley Dell Pork from nearby Woodbridge. Delights on the menu include a wonderful 28-day aged rib eye steak , whole roast plaice and a seafood platter sharing dish that is full of the finest local delicacies. It would probably be quite easy for them to knock out stock dishes
for passing trade, instead the White Lion is a food destination for tourists and locals alike. From the waiting staff through to the kitchen, there is a sense a real pride and passion for what they are doing and it shows through in the finished product. The Brasserie is a stylish hangout, with great food and I was genuinely impressed.
Aldeburgh Food & Drink Festival
Both the White Lion and its sister hotel, the Brudenell, are taking part in the town’s Food and Drink Festival and Fringe with a variety of events from 27th September until 9th October including gourmet wine dinners, meet
the chef demonstrations, workshops, Battle of the Chefs and a progressive dinner with each course at a different restaurant. The White Lion Hotel Market Cross Place, Aldeburgh, Suffolk, IP15 5BJ Tel 01728 452720 There is a varied programme of themed nights, live entertainment and concerts at the Hotel all year round (some in association with the nearby Jubilee Hall). For information on these or to book a room visit www.whitelion.co.uk
After The Gold Rush I DON’T know what the thousands of tourists and athletes who descended on Glasgow for the Commonwealth Games made of the traffic cone stuck on top of the Duke of Wellington’s head, but I’m sure more than a few raised a smile.
His statue in Royal Exchange Square was ‘coned’ a few years ago as a prank by students and it has become a symbol of the fun spirit, which the city embodies. When the local authorities tried to remove it, there was uproar from many Glaswegians who had grown to love this iconic site. As a tour guide told me: “Tourists often ask me, what is the one thing in Glasgow they should see or do, and I always tell them to go and see the Duke. It’s hilarious and most people will see the funny side.” Now the Games have gone, there is still plenty to explore in Glasgow, here’s a guide to some of the best.
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Glasgow is fairly easy to get around, but to get your bearings, go on a quick tour of the city. The guides on the City Sightseeing buses offer an entertaining and colourful insight into Glasgow’s history and culture. There are 28 stops and you can hop on and off to visit a site or stay on for the full two-hour tour. The service runs daily every 20 minutes from 9.30am to 4.30pm. The main starting point is in George Square but you can get on anywhere along the route. For anyone aged six and over they can also use their headphones to tune in to the bus’s Ghostly Glasgow tour, which describes the city’s grim, gory and ghoulish past. A oneday ticket costs £12/£6 or £26 family ticket (two adults and three children). Two-day tickets cost £14/£7 or £30. They can be bought on the bus or at citysightseeingglasgow.co.uk. Alternatively, there are taxi tours of the city. Prices are per taxi, with each taking up to five passengers. One hour costs £35 and two hours £65. (Glasgow Taxi Tour; 0141 429 7070; glasgowtaxis.co.uk). There is also the subway and an extensive bus and train network.
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If, after all that touring you’re feeling thirsty, head to Wellpark Brewery for a free pint of Scotland’s ‘favourite lager’. First you’ll have to go on a guided walk through the brewing process, from mashing to canning, but there will be a pint of Tennent’s waiting for you at the end. The site, which is in Duke Street, is home to 450 years of brewing tradition. Tours cost £7.50/£5 or family £20. Children must be aged 12 or over and accompanied by an adult. (0845 166 6040, tennentstours.com)
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There’s nothing more sobering than a wander around a cemetery, particularly after a pint. Just behind the brewery in Wishart Street is the Necropolis, which has been described as a “unique representation of Victorian Glasgow”. The large ornate memorials, designed by leading Glaswegian architects, like Charles Rennie Mackintosh, were erected in honour of wealthy merchants. It is on a hill and has a great view over the city. The Necropolis, where 50,000 people are buried, is open daily from 7am to dusk. (glasgownecropolis.org)
After The Gold Rush
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For a spot of light refreshment, head to the Willow Tea Rooms in Sauchiehall Street. The afternoon tea is one of the most popular items on the menu with visitors to the city at £12.95 a person. (0141 332 0521; willowtearooms. co.uk ). Every aspect of the tea-rooms, from the interior and exterior to the waitress dresses and spoons, were designed by Mackintosh in 1904. His influence can also be seen throughout the city. Walking tours are available. (glasgowmackintosh.com; thelighthouse.co.uk)
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Once school’s out, you may like to take a 90-minute cruise “doon the watter”. Explore Glasgow from the River Clyde, which runs through the heart of the city. With a day ticket you can hop on and off at various stops, which includes the Glasgow Science Centre. It costs £15/£8 and £40 for a family ticket. To go further afield and explore the lochs, take a two or four cruise to the beautiful Loch Lomond area. It costs about £15 or £7.50 but prices vary depending on the departure point. (01475 721281; clydecruises.com)
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If anyone was naughty during your visit you could send them to the horrible “heedie” at the Scotland Street School Museum. Join “headteacher”, Miss Eve, actress Lesley Robertson, for a fun and fear filled Time Traveller tour. You will go back in time to classrooms recreated from the Victorian era, the 1930s and the 1960s. Children will get the chance to dress up in the clothes worn at those times. The 90-minute session is very entertaining. I was a few minutes late and had to stand up in front of the class and do a spelling. Luckily I got it right. The former school, which was also designed by Mackintosh in 1903, has different events and exhibitions over the summer. Admission is free but charges apply to some activities. (0141 287 0500; glasgowmuseums. com. Admission is free to all public museums in Glasgow, including the main Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.)
While you are in Glasgow’s former shipbuilding area visit the Riverside Museum, which last year won the European Museum of the Year Award. Housed in architect Zaha Hadid’s striking, steel-clad building are thousands of objects connected to transport and travel, dating from the 1700s to the present day. They include a recently acquired South African locomotive, which you can clamber on, as well as ride on an old subway train. You can also wander down a full-size recreation of an early 20th century Glasgow street. Admission is free. (glasgowlife.org.uk) To get another rare glimpse into life in the city at that time, pay a visit to the Tenement House in Buccleuch Street. The property, which is owned by the National Trust of Scotland, is a restored four-room flat. It was once the home of Miss Agnes Howard, who lived there for 50 years before she died in 1965. Admission £6.50/£5 and family £16.50. Members free. (nts.org.uk/ property/tenement-house/)
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For a bit of retail therapy, go for a wander around the city’s “Style Mile”. In the main shopping area around Buchanan Street there are hundreds of stores, which range from designer to pound shops. Many are open to 7pm. You could finish off the day with an evening at the Royal Concert Halls, at the top of Buchanan Street, or head round the corner to Sauchiehall Street, to check out the lively late-night bars and restaurants…. although not advisable if you’ve got a race the next day.
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And finally, you can’t leave the city without a trip to the “coned” Duke of Wellington. The equestrian statue, which was erected in 1844, stands outside the Gallery of Modern Art. After taking photos of this bizarre site, pop inside the gallery and view the extensive collection of work by local and international artists. It has a beautiful spiral staircase up to the various floors and a shop, which sells quirky “Duke” greetings cards that include messages with well-known Glaswegian expressions. Mine said: “Ya wee dancer” – an expression of joy, apparently. Admission is free. For more info on Glasgow head to www.visitscotland.com
The Big Yin Malmaison Hotel By Mary Barber
Big Yin, as Connolly is known, is Scottish slang for the “Big One”. My room, a duplex suite, was the next size down from the biggest, or the executive suite. It was good to hear a chic four star hotel embrace the local culture in this way. I’m sure Connolly would also find it funny. Humour, I discovered, is a key feature of this hotel, even down to the toiletries. Unlike the usual corporate smellies, guests are invited to “gettin’ jiggy wit’ da figgy” – a reference to the fig and olive products. Written on the shampoo tube is: “Homeboys, homegirls and their crew can’t get enough of our shampoo… even if you wear a wig, don’t deprive it of the fig.” Even the cover on the soap bar read: “This soap is a must, whaddya mean, you can’t be fussed?” The Malmaison admits in its brochure it is “far from orthodox”. This was apparent from the moment I arrived and saw a Greek sign above the front door.
I KNEW I had arrived in Glasgow when the hotel receptionist told me my room was “the one below the Big Yin”. I just had to ask: “Do you mean Billy Connolly’s?” No, the comedian, one of the city’s most famous sons, wasn’t staying at the Malmaison Hotel.
When translated it means “God’s house”. The older part of the hotel is a former Greek Orthodox Church and many of the original features are still here. Just inside the imposing early 19th century building is a wrought iron staircase. Its religious imagery leads up to rooms on the first floor. The site was bought by the hotel in 1994 – it celebrates its 20th anniversary in September. Since then it has had a stylish, modern, yet quirky, makeover. “If God is looking
The Big Yin Malmaison Hotel
Directly in front, however, was a drab, grey office block. Not great but back inside there was a lovely bathroom with those quirky toiletries, a fabulous power shower and a great big solid sink – no silly bowl shaped ones that you see in many hotels. down right now I’m sure he’d like what we’ve done with the place,” states the brochure. It’s quite likely, although questions might be raised about the purple and white carpet in the main entrance. My room was not in the church side of the building - there is a modern extension attached – but it felt like I was staying in the choir loft. The king-size bed was up a steep set of stairs on the mezzanine level, which overlooked a stylish, modern living room below. There were two comfy sofas, flat-screen TV, WiFi, desk, fridge and a big cupboard with an ironing board and iron. The skylights looked out across the roof tops and spires of the West End.
I had just arrived on an early flight from London and hoped to leave my bag at the hotel before it was time to check-in. The Malmaison on West George Street is about a 10-minute walk from Glasgow Central train station and just around the corner from the Glasgow School of Art. The friendly staff suggested I eat breakfast in the Brasserie, which is in the old crypt of the former church. I descended the spiral staircase to a room of dark wood and leather seats. In front, was a wonderful selection of cooked and continental foods, breads and pastries. I opted for poached egg on toast, which was heavenly. I relaxed, read the paper and listened as a man near me hummed along to a Carpenters song
Admittedly, I did book late in the day but it was hidden around the corner from the rest of the room. I only saw the other diners when they walked past to use the nearby toilets. I can’t say it was purgatory but I didn’t hang around after I finished what was a lovely meal. From a selection of British and international classics, I opted for apple, pear and goat’s cheese salad for starter (£6.50) followed by porcini risotto (£13). There was also an excellent selection of wines and desserts. I walked back to the stairs through the stylish Champagne bar, with its purple walls and comfy chairs. It is a glass-covered atrium that fills the gap between the old and new parts of the hotel. It was very quiet but I imagine it can get busy. By contrast, Sauchiehall Street, which is just around the corner, is filled with late night bars and clubs. It’s great if you want to hit the town but it can get noisy, particularly with the police station next door. The Malmaison Hotel is a good place to stay if you are looking for something that’s a little different, or not as orthodox, as your average four star hotel.
playing quietly on the radio: “Long ago, so far away…” I chose the Brasserie again for my evening meal. It was Friday night and there was more of a party atmosphere. The attentive staff wore T-shirts and jeans and the volume on the radio had been turned up to blast out funky tunes. I believe it is quieter during the week. The only snag was my table.
Malmaison Hotel 278 West George Street, Glasgow G2 4LL 0141 572 1000 Standard double rooms at Malmaison Hotel Glasgow start from about £113.00 per room per night including breakfast. The duplex suite is £193.00 per room per night including breakfast. Rates may vary. Book online at malmaison.com or call 0845 365 4247.
Geocaching Hiding in Plain Sight
Geocaching is a global treasure hunt adventure where hidden ‘caches’ are tracked down by enthusiasts armed with GPS enabled devices and Smartphones. You might not know where it is, but there’s a good chance you’re less than a mile away from your nearest Geocache location. Many of the ‘caches’ are linked together via a series of clues, turning a regular day out into an modern pirate adventure for all the family. I asked Eric Schudiske from www.geocaching.com about the pastime enjoyed by over 2 million people worldwide. FM: How long has geocaching been going?
Eric: We know the exact day geocaching began. The first geocache was placed on May 3, 2000 in Oregon, Washington by Dave Ulmer, a computer consultant. It was the day after the US military descrambled GPS signals and GPS devices instantly became 10 times more accurate. He wanted to test the accuracy by hiding a navigational target in the woods. Things really took off and the hobby has been growing ever since. Jeremy Irish, Bryan Roth and Elias Alvord started the website Geocaching.com to list the growing number of geocaches. When the site launched in September of 2000 there were 75 geocaches listed around the
world. Now there are close to two million geocaches listed in more than 185 countries.
FM: Why do you think it has become so popular?
Eric: Geocaching gets people up off the couch and outside to explore the world around them. Geocaching taps into a sense of exploration and discovery that’s hardwired into our DNA. You can customise your geocaching experience to fit your passions, whether they’re mountain climbing or puzzle solving. It’s flexible. Geocaching is truly only bound by a set of coordinates and someone’s imagination.
FM:Where is the most isolated geocache?
Eric: Geocaches exist on all continents and in almost all countries. There are dozens of geocaches on Antarctica, on the top of mountains, and deep in jungles. The most isolated geocache though might be the one at rest on the bottom of the ocean – 2300 meters below the surface. Geocacher, and millionaire video game designer, Richard Garriott rented a submersible to place “Rain Hydrothermal Vents” in 2002. http:// coord.info/GCG822 .No one has discovered it so far.
Geocaching Hiding in Plain Sight
The British Library is one of the most popular caches in London. While we ask you do not give away any clues or the coordinates, the cache has been found hundreds of times. The cache involves answer clues found throughout the library to find the final geocache container. http://coord.info/GC2M0AF
the geocache, it’s about what they discover while geocaching. If someone discovers the five closest geocaches to their house, it’s likely they’ll also discover a new park, or unknown vantage point, or some hidden history they never knew existed too.
Eric: Geocaching isn’t so much about what people discover inside
community as it is an activity. People can readily find local geocaching
FM: Are there local groups FM: What is the best thing people can connect with and go anyone has found in a Geocache on exploration trips together? Eric: Geocaching is as much as box?
groups almost anywhere in the world. The Geocaching Association of Great Britain (GAGB) is a great place to start for new geocachers: http://gagb.co.uk/
Geocaching Rules: Geocaches are never buried. Geocachers must receive land owner permission before placing a geocache. Volunteers review each geocache to do their best to ensure that each geocache meets local standards and laws. There are Apps available on iPhone, Android, and Windows Phone 7 (for a fee). Membership is free on Geocaching.com. And…. If you are ever in the small village of Halvergate in Norfolk see if you can find Flush’s very own GEO-Cache, for the clues go to www. Geocaching.com and search for ‘Jevie’ Happy Hunting!
More than just a dance
POZNAN by Graeme Hughes
Ask a seasoned traveller to name three must visit places in Poland and they’ll probably say “Warsaw, Krakaw or Gdansk”. However, cultural enthusiasts hungry for a burgeoning weekend break destination, and those soccer fans enthusiastic enough to discover the roots beneath the Pozna team supporters dance craze are looking towards one of Poland’s oldest and historically significant cities to nourish their diets.
With a growing population of over five hundred thousand inhabitants Poznan sits humbly on the banks of the Warta river in the Wielkopolska region (Greater Poland) in West Central Poland. The old town district lies to the west, a short stroll to the religious centre of Poznan Cathedral and a mix of ecclesiastical buildings form the oldest parts of the city on Ostrów
Tumskior and Cathedral Island. To the East, 1960’s apartment blocks and large areas of forest and lakes spread out across Poznan’s modest skyline. Poznan is rich in architectural history, and the best way to see it is on foot, that way you can get to choose from the many bakeries purveying Poznans traditional baked delicious St.Martins croissant. If necessary, you can hop on one of the quirky trams for an authentic ride around the city. A ticket will set you back 2,80zl (50p) for a 15min journey or, 3.60zl for a 30 min ride. The Great Outdoors A resulting lasting legacy of the communist era philosophy on Pozna life has been the inclusion of public open spaces and the use of them within modern city planning policies. This understanding runs deep within the Polish culture and in the progressive spirit of young Poznans, who embrace the new globalised economy, at the same time having a rich awareness and pride in their
heritage. Sport and leisure facilities and academic institutes play a big part in the fabric of Poznan life. So, if you are a nature enthusiast, there is a lot to offer in way of parks, forests and municipal green spaces. Significantly the largest of water and forest spaces and a spectacle well worth a visit is Lake Malta, on the Eastern edge of the city. Covering 64 hectares and 2.2 km long, the man made rowing and kayaking venue has been used three times for the ICF Canoe Sprint World Championships. Completed in the 1952, its banks are dotted with numerous lumps of modernist architecture, sporting venues, hotels and recreational
attractions. Including a dry ski slope, toboggan run, restaurants and a zoo. Save a day if you want to walk around the whole lake and admire the vistas or, discover your inner child by flying down a toboggan run at breakneck speeds. Great fun! The feet of construction of lake Malta largely rose from a concerted effort from it’s war time German occupiers
More than just a dance
POZNAN
and a later post war communist party policy for health and well being. With a spirit of optimism and its vision of strength and fitness for the people, a bold poster ad campaign was launched to promote the salvation of the population through ridding the country from the widespread negative social effects of alcohol consumption! Where to Eat and Drink With no less than seven universities dotted around the city, old meets new, traditional embraces the modern, both in terms of age groups the city caters for and in the tastes and style of shops and restaurants. There are plenty of places for families to eat and relax in the old town alongside this part boasting a thriving
art scene. With something for everyone, there is an inclusive and embracing atmosphere to this destination. Dining experiences are no exception, as the young chefs are creating some interesting twists on traditional Polish cuisine in some of the hip and must go-to restaurants. Unique Lunch Experience: For a stylish and modern twist on traditional Polish food visit The Vine Bridge Restaurant ul.Ostrowek (6, 61-122 Poznan) on the east side of the bridge of Cathedral Island. Boasting to be the smallest restaurant in Pozna with only three tables, this is an intimate dining experience well worth searching out. Added to the romance of the place elegantly sculpted plates of innovative cooking are served by the extremely friendly and helpful waiter whilst the chef weaves his magic nearby. Try the Chicken in crumbs with
vegetable, pearl barley and foam and for dessert, Chocolate cake, coffee soil, caramelised rice, peach sorbet and filo pastry with mint. Delicious! Old Town Square After taking in the beautifully restored gothic, renaissance and baroque facades of the tenement houses rising high around the market square of Stary Rynek in the old town district area, one can relax outside with a refreshment in one a string of local restaurants, bars. Watch the world go by whilst enjoying a variety of locally brewed beers and taking in the architecture of the old town hall. On one side of the square is
the Brovaria Hotel and Restaurant. If you are into your beers Brovaria brews its own on site, and one can spend time sampling the various blends alongside a modern classic menu of traditional Polish cuisine. Visit the back part of the restaurant to take a look at the brewery. Knowledgeable and friendly staff are on hand to give advice and to tell you about the beers. Not only is the service higly professional the restaurant employs some of the best chefs in the region pushing traditional Polish cuisine. Well worth a visit. Try the Sour Rye Soup with Mushrooms for starter, Fried Zander served with Porcini mushrooms in cream, savoy cabbage with ginger and leek, served with mashed potatoes for main course. Brovaria Hotel Restaurant Stary Rynek 73-74, 61-772 Poznan www.brovaria.pl
More than just a dance
POZNAN
Where to Stay The city has a variety of accommodation on offer, mainly upmarket hotels and self catering apartments for rent, to cater for the amount of conferences and fairs that Poznan holds throughout the year. This is great for choice, but it’s best to check prices as they do go up during fair times. For a very central location and only 7km from the airport I recommend the plush NH Poznan. With 93 rooms and spa this is a luxury 4star hotel with modern and stylish interiors, state of the art technology, and tasteful furnishings. Comfort oozes from NH and there’s a focus on the details. Fresh and uplifting food and an emphasis on health and wellbeing with a Turkish and Finnish steam bath in the spa. www.nh-hotels.com
buildings from the nineteenth century ooze charm and tradition. Stay in the Manor House, Stables, Pigsty or Hen-house. Restored tastefully to the nostalgic style one feels taken back in time. This is a comfortable place romantically suitable for couples and fun with lots of outdoor space for families and outdoor dining. Friendly and helpful staff who are willing to help with make your time there If you prefer somewhere a bit quirky, enjoyable. off the beaten track and to escape The food in the restaurant here is of a the hustle and bustle of the city very high standard. Both hearty and centre look no further than Zagroda made with love. Bamberska. About a 30 min walk from Zagroda Bamberska the Old Town and nestled next to park Ul. Koscielna 43, 60-534 Poznan zolacki, the historic accomodation www.zagrodabamberska.pl
Where To Visit The city itself has a lot to offer, but if you’re looking to go further afield there are a couple of historical sites where you can trace Wielopolska history. Ostrow Lednicki, about an hour and a half’s drive from Poznan, is a stone age and Neolithic archealogical museum site situated on an island surrounded by a vast lake. Take a ferry over to the island where you can walk around the remains of this early Piast settlement. Another half an hours drive but run by the same museum is the Ethnographic park of Wielkapolska. Polish rural life has been rebuilt here in the form of an entire village including farmsteads, watermills, windmills, barns, pub, and church. An insightful experience for those wanting to put their anthropological hats on, or just to marvel in the craftsmanship of the timber framed buildings, thatching, weaving and plaiting. The museum is sited in a picturesque setting so it is worth a stroll on a warm day. www.lednicamuzeum.pl
Nearby is Grod Pobiedziska. This is an enterprise run by father and son team who are passionate about building medieval siege engines. Think mad Polish men and battering rams, Trebuchets, and giant crossbows, and you are on the right track. These guys have built machines of war that were used in medieval battles meticulously with their own hands and faithful to historical records. Not only can you go and learn about how these structures were made, and used in battle, but you can have a go at loading them and firing them yourselves. This is a fun and educational activity, great for a group or for families looking for a day out or bonding experience! If not only to appreciate and support the ambition of the enthusiastic owners. www.grodpobiedziska.pl Both WizzAir and Ryaniar flight direct to Poznan from the UK in just over two hours from ÂŁ34 depending on the dates. For more info visit www.wizzair.com and www.ryanair.com
Nissan Note Premium 1.2 DIG-S
Brainbox THE Nissan Note is a real cleverclogs of a car – in a good way. It’s one of those small motors that thinks big and succeeds in defying its dimensions by delivering a large-car feel, and the kind of features you would usually associate with more up-scale models. I got to test-drive the latest generation of the Japanese manufacturer’s five-door supermini with MPV-type (multi purpose vehicle) lines. The Note doesn’t stint when it comes to equipment, with a prodigious kit list including climate control, electrically adjustable heated door mirrors, automatic headlights, and wipers, front fog lights, steering wheel mounted audio controls, CD player with four speakers, USB and AUX input, Bluetooth, cruise control, speed limiter and tyre pressure monitoring system. All Round Safety On the safety front, the car boasts
Acenta By Frank Turner
a suite of hi-tech features. Lane departure warning, blind spot warning and moving object detection combine to form the company’s ‘Safety Shield’. And if, like me, you do not merit a gold star for parking skills, there is the 360-degree helicopter view offered by the dashboard screen of the Around View Monitor. That monitor comes into play with the lane departure warning. Testing in Europe conducted by Nissan revealed that some lane departure devices can experience interference on narrow country lanes, and can be triggered prematurely if differences in European lane markings are not taken into account. The Note’s system uses footage from the monitor’s camera and data from its safety systems to continually adapt to the road conditions and type. So the system understands if the car is being driven on a country road or a motorway and changes warning alerts given to the driver to best suit the conditions. All these are technologies previously found in premium motors, but Nissan deserves praise for spreading the hi-tech joy. The Note ticks the box marked ‘practicality’ with some very handy features, including a 60/40 split rear seat back, sliding rear bench and a load bay ‘flexiboard’ system
Nissan Note Acenta Premium 1.2 DIG-S
to help carry items efficiently and safely. The Long & Winding Road Long journeys are a good test of any car, and I clocked up two 300 miles-plus trips in a week-long road test. The Note acquitted itself well on an Oxford-and-back haul from my northern redoubt, followed by another to Warwick, with comfort to the fore. I thought the 1.2-litre, three-cylinder, emissions-beating petrol engine might have felt a bit underdone on the motorway, but not so.
The smooth and quiet power unit, with five-speed manual gearbox, is just as much at home on the three-lane highway as it is around town. The car offers a generous helping of interior space, with rear seat passengers well catered for, while the full-length fixed sunroof (with blind) helps give an airy atmosphere. My only minor gripe was the lack of reach-adjustment for the steering wheel. Clean Sweep So, take Note ... this clever and versatile car, which is road tax exempt, scores highly in a tough segment of the car market. And, on the clever –clogs front, the Note is the first car to trial paint which could make washing the car obsolete. The company has begun tests on
innovative paint technology that repels mud, rain and everyday dirt, meaning drivers may never have to clean their car again. The specially engineered super-hydrophobic and oleophobic paint has been applied to a Note to try it out, aiming to create the world’s first self-washing car. Nissan should really clean up with that one! TECH SPEC Make/model: Nissan Note Acenta Premium 1.2 DIG-S Technical: 1198cc, three-cylinder petrol engine, five speed manual gearbox; Performance: 0-62mph, 11.7 secs, top speed, 112mph; Fuel: 65mpg (combined) Emissions: 99g/km CO2 Price: £15,395 OTR.
WEEKEND ESCAPES
Istanbul by Graeme Hughes
A new daily service from Luton to Istanbul Ataturk by Altasjet seems like the perfect excuse to explore the city where East meets West and to catch up with an old friend at the same time. My adventure into Istanbul, former Ottoman gateway into Asia had begun like many other travelers paths before me. Flush had laid out a luxurious soft pile carpet to entice and enchant me on my way to the ancient capital of the Christian world, Constantinople. With a 3.5hr leggy flight in place with Atlasjet and a stay at the 5 star Marti Hotel Istanbul (with spa treatment thrown in) the recent political dustbowl is well and truly swept under a very finely woven Turkish rug. On the plane I enlightened myself by reading the philosophical and mystical prose of the Sufis. ‘The Conference of the Birds’ by Farid Ud-
Wink Musselman I was excited to pick Graeme up from Ataturk Airport on a warm, breezy evening. I waited in the mob outside the pick-up gate and speculated as to Graeme’s appearance as I hadn’t seen him since 2002 in London. Despite the years in between, he largely looked the same, other than walking with a gait of selfconfidence and a can-do attitude. We arrived at the Marti Hotel, a five star affair situated in a lively central part of the city. The décor was magnificent. Liberace would’ve felt right at home.
Din Attar is an allegory of the souls search for unity with the divine. What could be more apt to prepare the ground for a trip to a city with such wonderful constructions such as the Blue and Suleymaniye Mosques, Aya Sofya and the Basillica Cistern. These are a must see in the spiritual centre of Istanbul in the area of Sultanahmet. To get there, catch a tram from Kabatas close to Taksim Sq and alight at Sultanhmet metro stop. If I do have time to experience the rituals of the Sufis and the Whirling Dervishes, I will be heading to the Galata Mevlevi Museum located at Galipdede Caddesi 15. In the Galata district.
The spiced chicken and pureed aubergine served up by Atlasjet’s new ‘flying chef’, fed the stomach and the imagination, before touch down at Ataturk Airport. The service and food from Atlasjet shows an attention to detail – with other airlines, you pay
WEEKEND ESCAPES
Istanbul
for the extra legroom. Here you get it as part of the basic EconomyPlus fare and hospitality thrown in with a smile. Upon arrival I awaited my tour guide, an old friend I hadn’t seen for twelve years; the lounge entertainer and globe-trotting humanitarian, Wink Musselman. Recently Wink has been
splitting his time between Los Angeles and Istanbul and had offered to take me around and show me the sites. Having walked out into the Istanbul evening air my linen jacket and trousers began to break out in a mild sweat. The mood is lifted as I realise what a cultural crossroads Istanbul really is. With one foot in Europe and the other in Asia, this is the straddling bottleneck of the middle and Far East regions, and has the most multicultural arrival lounge I think I have ever been lucky enough to pass through. This fills me with a sense of wonder and excitement for what lies ahead. The Marti Hotel has kindly provided us with a free transfer, but there are plenty of taxis outside arrivals to take you into the centre from the airport. Expect to pay 50 Lira to Taksim Sq or around 40 Lira to Sultanahmet, a
shower with hamam style basins, king sized beds and 42” inch flat screen TV’s. You get a sense of the assertive pride which the building embodies and which is reflected in the spacious clean lines and within the materials used. Glass and marble combine refined simplicity making Marti a welcomed juxtaposition to the bustling frenetic pace of the sprawling metropolis on its doorstep. For me, this creates a reassuring and forty minute taxi ride or transfer will get uplifting experience. you into the city. Alternatively, take Eating at the Marti guests can pick the metro from below the departure from a choice of two restaurants. hall for 2 Lira to Zeytinburnu or hop The Brass restaurant at the front of out onto a tram which will take you the hotel offering seasonal selections to Sultanahmet. Journey time 60 from international cuisines, and minutes. hosting live music on Fridays and The Marti, built in 2012 boasts 270 Saturday nights. Expect reliably well exquisite rooms lavishly designed by cooked dishes such as Roasted interior designer Zeynep Fadillioglu. beetroot salad, lentil soup for starters, On arrival expect to be escorted Gnocchi with Pumpkin Cream Sauce, seamlessly by driver, concierge Grilled Lamb skewer for mains. and bell boy through the lounge Alternatively for a dining experience and reception areas. Wink gets with an accent on Turkish cooking distracted by the exquisite marble try the stylish Quad restaurant. There and gold décor as he slides over to is also the Gourmet stop which the grand piano, unlit cigarette in produces fine delicacies to eat in or hand. The service here like the design take away. Try the macaroons, they is authentic, elegant and carried are delicious. through with style and intention. The Marti not only offers stylish The hotel offers a number of rooms service and cuisine, but an awe and suites all dripping with pure luxury, inspiring view across the city from the including large Turkish bath, walk in rooftop Terrace Bar. Look out over
WEEKEND ESCAPES
Istanbul
the nearby Istiklal Caddessi, and the Bosphorous Strait beyond. Below is the Marti Wellness centre, beautifully designed and catering for those who wish to spend their time pampering themselves in pure opulence. Enjoy a traditional Turkish Hamam, Roman bath, sauna, and numerous types of massage in elegant relaxing environments Wink Musselman We hopped in a taxi and are whisked away to a fabulous French restaurant called La Petit Maison. Ignoring questions as to why Flush would send Graeme from England to Istanbul to go to a French restaurant, we made our way through the entrance and were instantly struck by what a fabulous joint this was. The bar was a focal point of the first room, with hanging glasses and a handsome and inviting bar staff. The restaurant is designed with refreshing pastel hues and high ceilings. As we entered the dining area, we were seated in a quiet corner and were engaged by our friendly waiter, who had some great dining suggestions.
to sooth the body and mind. La Petit Maison For starters, the simple puy lentil salad was fresh, light and seasoned. Then we moved onto a finely presented display of tempura zuccini flowers, served with crispy sage leaves and anchovies. This is a favourite dish of mine and its crunch and the saltiness of the anchovies compliments the softness of the lentil salad perfectly. To accompany the meal there is the traditional Turkish offering of whole tomatoes, bread and lemon placed simply on the table next to the wine glasses.
The dish of the day is a memorable taste moment of the Le Petit Maison experience. For mains there are a few things that the chef recommends which have already sold out. These are the grilled lamb cutlets with smoked aubergine, the grilled lobster with citrus butter. We settle for the rib-eye steak and pan fried dover sole with mustard dressing and dauphinoise potatoes. The Salad Niçoise, with shaved tuna marinated to utter perfection, tender and with the accent of almonds from the marinade. This is simple, melt in the mouth refined cooking and is a true delight. I could have left right then entirely sated. The steak is “nicely seared and tasted particularly robust.” The broiled sole is fresh, and seasoned well with a complimentary citrus glaze. The next day, rested from the journey I’m up early enough to take in the sprawling vista of the city, welcoming a breathtaking sunrise. The breakfast experience in the impressive Quad space of the Marti is well worth taking its time over. The finesse is in the detail, For example, there is a selection of traditional yoghurts with pure honey which one can collect directly from the honeycomb suspended high in an elevated
Wink When it came time for dessert, we decided to venture to the outdoor patio as I noticed that my nicotine levels had fallen sharply over the previous hour indoors. I was struck by the patio’s relaxed opulence. The dim lighting, complimentary blankets, and an outdoor bar made you feel as though you were sat in a Malibu cliff-side restaurant catering to the Hollywood set. Our waiter arrived with a platter of sorbet and creme brulee. The crust was crunchy but ever so thin, and the flavor of the creamy caramel exploded in my mouth and invigorated every taste bud on my tongue. I thought, “wow, this is some great brulee.” Definitely order the brulee. I dropped Graeme at his hotel and headed home on foot, it was a good night. glass case. Filled with energy and ready for a day exploring, I head out to meet Wink in the nearby Taksim Square. Today we are taking a walk down Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue), through the Galata district, over the river to check out the infamous Spice and Grand bazaars, and then finishing off by taking a ferry over the Bosphourous Strait to check out the Asian side.
WEEKEND ESCAPES
Istanbul
Taksim square Taksim square is a vast open space where locals meet and hang out at all times of the day. The best time of day to head to Taksim and Istiklal Caddesi is early morning and late afternoon. Check out a fantastic coffee house called Manda Batmazdown on Olivia Gecidi 1a, which is halfway down Istiklal Caddesi. The coffee here is delicious, strong and made with care serving hoards of locals. In the early evening soak up the atmosphere by joining the swathes of locals promenading down towards the Galata Tower area. Veer off the beaten track into the winding alleyways and backstreets of the Galata, Cihangur, and Asmalimescit districts. Here you will find the effervescent arts and cultural scenes with cafes to rest at and to take in the scenery. I also recommend heading to Serdar-I Ekrem Caddesi, a delightful little street which is home to some of the cities exciting young
designer boutiques. Pick up some fine traditional ceramic tiles with a modern twist at the must visit ceramic studio of Sadullah Cekmece; at No 38/1; Sadullah is a fine artist who works in ceramics making tiles, plates, vases and objects with influences in traditional Turkish styles and patterns. If you have time to wander and browse the shops further, up on the same street is Ancien, and its Cinequeime Exposition Objets & Mobilier et curiosities, housing fascinating art deco and antique designer glass lamps and objects to dazzle your senses.
Istiklal Caddesi Back up on Istiklal Caddesi pop into Denizlerkitabevi to rummage through collections of old books, engravings and curious collector items in this alladins cave of Istanbuls past. Istiklal Caddesi 199a Beyoglu; www.denizlerkitabevi.com A few doors down is another unusual place to visit. Pick up a gift in the form of a fine individual writing pen, quill or writing set at Panter. A shop purely selling everything to do with letter writing. Located at number 185-D. Istiklal caddesi. If art and contemporary culture is your scene then on your route down to Galata Tower is one of the most exciting galleries to open in Istanbul. Arter, with a vibrant program
of exhibitions is a gallery showcasing cutting edge young, mid career and established artists. Visit the current exhibition entitled ‘Through The Looking Glass’, a broad survey of Fusun Onur past and present works from the 1960’s taking its title from Lewis Carroll’s book of the same title. Allow an hour to take in the work in this space which is spread over the three floors. Istiklal Caddesi 211 Tues-Thurs 11am-7pm; www.arter.org.tr Further on is another relatively new cultural centre. SALT Beyoglu, with bookshop and an impressive walk in cinema, is set over a three story old apartment building. This space showcases contemporary art, film projects, and also hosts panel discussions. I was lucky enough to be there during the Document artist festival to see some powerful films including one amongst others ‘The Miners hymns’ by Madenci Ilahilerione documenting the immediate impact of a recent mining disaster on mining families in a rural Turkish village.
WEEKEND ESCAPES
Istanbul
LUNCH STOP To eat around here I recommend heading off Istiklal caddesi into the Asmalimescit district to choose from any number of meyhane restaurants or lunch venues serving meze’s. Try the delicious mezes from 8-10 Lira at Antiocha, Minare Sokak 21a www. antiochiaconcept.com .Or try the Aegean food at Lokanta Maya, Kemankes Caddesi 35a; www.lokantamaya.com
Alternatively try eating out at Karakoy Lokantasi; Here you can take in the splendid tiled interior of this locanta (eatery serving ready made food) during the day with a great atmosphere and well made authentic cuisine. Dine here during the evening when it transforms into a meyhene. Prices go up a little bit but you won’t be disappointed with portion sizes. Proven by the amount of locals who come to eat here. Lunch from mon – sat, dinner daily. Telephone: 212-292 4455; Expect to pay 7–11 (£2.00-3.00) Lira for mezes, grilled dishes 11–18 Lira (£3.00-5.00); Kemankes Cadessi 37a, Karakoy. Zubeyir Ocakbasi; Come here to sample the fantastic grilled kebap meat in this fireside kebap restaurant or ocakbasi. Finely barbecued delights draw people from all over the city so book in advance to geta table. 12 noon-1am, Telephone: 212293 3951, expect to pay between 10-20 Lira; www.zubeyirocakbasi. com; Bekar Sokak 28. After lunch head down to the historic Galata Tower where you can either decide to ascend for a rather pricey 12Lira to take in the view. Wink
Wink Graeme and I met up again and headed to the Grand Bazaar. There were loads of gorgeous things for sale, and the chaos of the place stimulates the senses. The rows of spices and sweets, teas and tat, all make for an orgy of eye pleasure that can be intoxicating.
and I decide to conserve energy and browse the array of local music shops as we head for the river and over to the Spice and Grand Bazaars. Crossing The Galata bridge which divides Halic (The Golden Horn) to the west and the start of Bogazici (Bosphorous Strait) to the east, we pass lines of men and boys angling off the sides. Below and lining the length of the bridge is a stretch of cafes where one can buy fresh grilled mackerel sandwiches if you’re still feeling peckish. Reaching the Eminou district on the other side in the midday heat we head through the building crowds of like minded tourists for the spice bazaar located just behind the New Mosque. Street vendors selling novelty items, trinkets, and shoe shines line the streets with their stalls en route. SPICE AND GRAND BAZAARS Passing through the Ottoman high arched doorway between the far reaching outer brick facades we enter into the noisy and packed covered market. Mountains of spices are laid out carefully, trinkets cascade from shutters, and plates
are displayed in glorious rows, on stalls stretching as far as the eye can see. This place is a visual delight as the light level drops and ones senses are bombarded with the sheer volume of stuff. This is a place to inspire ones culinary juices even if you do not buy anything the energy is purely infectious. I decide to ask the price of a rather pretty looking decorative ceramic bowl and find myself instantly drawn into bartering for something that I do not really want. The stallholders are experienced at
WEEKEND ESCAPES
Istanbul
this, generally like to engage with you and are extremely friendly. After all this is their living. I do not buy the bowl, but I enjoyed the chat and the experience. You need a certain focus here, so after becoming overwhelmed we head for the light and the exit. The streets begin to wind and the daylight overhead narrows between the lengths of overhanging fabrics. Everywhere clothes dangle, gold glistens and vast sagging cardboard towers are barrowed by young and old men to their destinations. The goods being peddled here are mostly of cheap quality but one can find some interesting things amongst this. At some points expect the crowds to thicken to a virtual standstill, as you are herded en masse. The atmosphere is generally fun and jovial and one can begin to imagine the history of this place. To round off the afternoon with a refreshing break from the crowds, sit and relax under the trees with a cup of tea and cake by heading over to Lale Bahcesi on
Sifahane Caddesi, Suleymaniye. If you take in the bazaars in the morning you can spend the afternoon heading a short walk to the spiritual centre of Sultanahmet to visit the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya complex and the tombs of five sultans, the Great Palace Mosaic Museum with excavations of mythological mosaic floors from the Byzantine era. You could then end the day by seeing the Medusa heads at the Basillica Cistern nearby. BOSPHOROUS CRUISE If you are in this area early in the day and would like to take a trip the entire length of the Bosphorous to see this historic route up to the Black Sea, the shores lined with palaces and mansions, catch the Bosphorous Cruise at 10.30am from Eminou by the Galata Bridge. A one way ticket costs 15 Lira (approx ÂŁ4.50) and takes you up to the narrowest point and the Black Sea to the stop at Anadolu Kavagi. This takes an hour and a half. A return will cost you 25 Lira.
THE SPA I arranged an afternoon in the Marti Wellness Centre, to be pampered with use of the steam room, sauna, relaxation rooms, and a couple of treatments including a traditional Turkish hamam massage. I spent the morning picking up some spices from the spice bazaar and visited the Blue Mosque. I had heard various accounts of what I was to expect at the spa from the traditional cleansing ritual, and they differ depending on which place you visit. Being scrubbed, washed like a baby by a complete stranger merely dressed in a pestemal (bath wrap) is not exactly my idea of fun. The masochist in me though drives me forward towards my inevitable pink humiliation. I imagine the forthcoming embarrassment as layers of London grime are scrubbed from my torso to rest on the polished surface below forming shameful minarets. Waves of anxiety fill my thoughts as the elevator takes me up floor by floor. I remind myself that dirt is
Wink After an afternoon of navigating the tourist crowd, I convinced Graeme to come visit me on the other side of the Bosphorus in Asia where I know of a nice little restaurant with friendly waiters that would bring us delicious Turkish food at prices for locals. We took a beautiful ferry ride from Eminonu to Kadikoy and we walked to Acibadem, stopping along the way to get a couple of simits and some sour cherry muffins at the local bakery. (total cost 4 TL). We ordered lots of meze (plates of various delicious salads) and a variety of mains, including Adana Kebab and Tavuk Sis. These were all served with a plate of radishes and foamy home made Ayran (yogurt drink). We finished off the meal with kunefe, which is a crispy, cheesy, sweet dessert topped with whipped butter. As we were in Istanbul, we ended the meal with strong tea and a cigarette. A satisfying end to a great dinner.
actually human as I pass the tenth. I finally reach the eleventh floor, the doors open and I march as coolly as possible out of the glamorous elevator dressed in hotel robe and matching slippers towards the reception. An overwhelming sense
WEEKEND ESCAPES
Istanbul
of calm washes through me as I am escorted to the sauna, steam rooms and the world of five star spa treatments. Over the next few hours my stresses melt away as I am taken to heaven by being washed, scrubbed, and massaged on a heated marble slab, drinking tea in the ambience of the relaxation room with soft lighting and hypnotising forest soundscapes. The ritualistic element is the key to setting this treatment apart from other types of massage, aside from the beautiful design of the Marti’s treatment areas and the professionalism with which they are delivered. The experience will stay with me for a very long time. I have enough time after the treatment to take a walk out to Taksim Square before meeting up with Wink for some food and to say farewell. I sit and take in the vista of friends meeting, families chatting and couples walking, and reflect on the last couple of days. It has been a visit to a city full of wonder that in the brief time I have been here, has surpassed many of my expectations. As I head to the restaurant, with the sun going down, the call to prayer echoes out across the city reminding me of the spiritual essence which runs throughout this mystical place. I will be back.
Wink After a few short days, Graeme’s adventure in Istanbul had come to a close. We parted ways and Graeme was taken to Ataturk Airport. It was wonderful to see him again, and I hope we can do it again soon.
Graeme flew to Istanbul with Atlas Jet via their new daily service (featuring the ‘flying chef’) from Luton for more info visit www.atlasjet.com Graeme stayed at Marti Istanbul www.martiistanbulhotel.com Graeme & Wink ate at La Petite Maison www.lpmistanbul.com.tr Maçka Palas, Maçka Caddesi No. 33B, Şişli T: (0212) 232 02 32 If you do want to visit a traditional hammam try out Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hamami; Aya Sofya Haeydani; This is a wonderfully restored C16th building offering a luxury bathing experience. Massages range from 70-165 Lira; Baths 40-75 Lira.
Taking the i-Road in Grenoble The future of transport is here. Well, not quite, but the i-ROAD, a two seater, three wheeled, electric vehicle certainly looks space-age. Head to Grenoble this Autumn and you’ll see a lot more of them as Toyota has contributed 70 electric vehicles into a three-year EV car sharing and public transport test project in the French City. Grenoble is a progressive place when it comes to transport, there is an extensive tram network, a brilliant
cheap bike loan system, plus 320km of bike lanes within it’s locality. So if you can’t get an i-Road at least you can still get around easily. Click here to watch them in action > For more info on Grenoble visit www.grenoble-tourisme.com/en
R U intelligent like what I am? by Ian Hughes/epredator
Stop the Press!! News reports and tweets claim a major milestone in machine based intelligence had just been passed. The Holy Grail of the Turin test had finally be beaten. Alan Turing is a famous name in computer circles (look out for the forthcoming movie starring Benedict Cumberbatch). He’s well known from his use of revolutionary techniques during the Second World War using computing power (built by Tommy Flowers) to help crack German codes at Bletchley Park.
As a great mathematician and thinker he has had a major impact on how the general computing devices we use today developed. Much of what he wrote doesn’t reach popular culture but most great scientists have the scientific equivalent of a comedy catchphrase that cements them into the fabric of society. Archimedes had “eureka” as his bath overflowed, Newton had the apple on the head incident, Einstein has E=MC^2. For Alan Turing it must
R U intelligent like what I am? be the Turing Test. That test, proposed by the great man in 1950 was to see if a general purpose conversational machine could be made. A conversation with this machine should not be able to be told apart from a conversation with a real person. He proposed that this be done using text and onscreen chat, obviously without any other visual or audio clues to give the game away. If it was not possible to tell the difference, then a major hurdle in artificial intelligence (AI) development would be met. If you cannot tell the difference during a conversation between a machine and person then we must have reached proper AI? To quote Douglas Adams character Dirk Gently though “If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck, we have at least to consider the possibility that we have a small aquatic bird of the family Anatidae on our hands.”
L33t Speak? We often covered this subject and the deeper philosophical aspects of Artificial Intelligence when I studied this as part of my university course (in the late 80’s). At that time it was quite rare for the general population to engage in text based chat. We didn’t have SMS messages on phones generally available either. So in the 1950’s this was even more far fetched and unknown. The difficulty in the Turing test was getting machines to understand the nuances of language. Using typed text gave us half a chance to build things as it removed the sort of body language and vocal intonation cues we feed
off as humans and channeled us into a domain more suited to data processing. I’m not sure this was his aim, but clearly it was making the job a bit easier. It is and was a stepping stone. What was probably not foreseen was the way in which the rapid take up of text based communication has led to a change in language, a change in the way we indicate meaning. The shortcuts and shorthand we use have evolved. We have ourselves codified some of our emotions in short text bursts. Emoticons and LOL’s are there to save us time on the interfaces we use and we have adjusted ourselves to the machines and length of the message. A test
to see if conversational text based interaction with a 1950’s person at the helm would be a much different prospect to a 2014 digital native engaging in social media chat. You may be expecting a polite exchange and full sentences more like a letter in a 1950’s conversation. Today though, a much more random and short conversation would occur. “You just got pwned!” Or even worse l33t speak - “1 M a Ar71F1C1al 1N73lL193nc3, And 1 JU57 pH00L3D J00” So hearing the Turing test had been passed during a competition organised by the University of Reading, I was intrigued to see that it was described as a 13 Year Old Ukranian boy who did not have English as his first language. I was then more surprised that in order to pass the test you only have to fool humans 30% of the time? It seems that the program called Eugene Goostman convinced 33% of the judges at a specially
organised event in snippets of 5 minute conversation. That’s 5 minutes of text speak style conversation with a 13 year old. I don’t know about you but I am sure many parents would wonder sometimes what of earth their kids are saying in text speak. Most of it may also seem not quite the intelligent responses one would expect from humans? I couldn’t help thinking this was gaming the system somewhat! I was pleased to see a quote by Prof Noel Sharkey, an expert in robotics and AI, saying “It is indeed a great achievement for Eugene. It was very clever ruse to pretend to be a 13year-old Ukranian boy, which would constrain the conversation. But these competitions are really great to push developments.”
Something you get the wrong end of - What is a stick? So the jury is out on whether the Turing test has been passed or is indeed a valid test now, given the criteria. What is not in doubt is that machine intelligence is advancing very rapidly. Understanding context and extrapolating meaning is a very high order function that we as humans are generally able to do. We may misunderstand or apply a different meaning to the one that was intended but we do much more than pattern match. After all “Time flies like an arrow and fruit flies like a banana.” This is classic example of semantics and the complication of language that takes some clever processing to work out. Here, IBM the company I worked for from 1990 to 2009 come in.
R U intelligent like what I am? IBM have always pushed the boundaries of computing power, it may be creating one of the worlds biggest supercomputers or topping the league table with patents files across the technology industry (something I certainly helped with). In 1997 a computer and some software called Deep Blue (possibly a contraction of Big Blue which is IBM’s nickname and Deep Thought the computer created in Douglas Adam’s Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy) beat the world Chess Champion Gary Kasparov in a 6 game match. Kasparov had beaten the machine the previous year. Chess is not a game of pure logic, on the surface it appears it is. The number if permutations of outcomes and the ability to bluff and counter bluff in situations make it an interesting problem space. Deep Blue was looking around 8 moves ahead, sometimes up to 20, running 200 million positions a second according to public reports. The deeper you can look ahead the more confidence you can have
in a move, It appeared a random erroneous move helped Deep Blue luck out and made Kasparov think he was playing a human or a an intelligent being, just like a random ;) in a text message might do in a Turing test. Computer power has moved on since 1997, even in 2006 the software chess program called Deep Fritz was running on a regular PC looking at 8 million positions a second but looking 18 moves ahead. So you can see the trajectory we are on for processing power. Next IBM turned its attention to a different domain. The US game show Jeopardy. In this show contestants are given a clue and have to answer with the question. Clues like Regarding this device, Archimedes said “Give me a place to stand on, and I will move the earth”. In order to answer this question
have seen fairly extreme differential diagnosis based on quirky, risky and very intelligent deductions by Hugh Laurie’s Sherlock Holmes homage. Yes that’s right… Sherlock Holmes and Dr Watson, led to the TV show ‘House’, a TV show led to IBM Watson that is now acting like a real life House!
“I’m Sorry Dave I Cannot Do That”
correctly you have to work out what the meaning or the statement, know the fact or be aware of the subject and then come up with question that would create this answer. In this case “What is a lever?”. Sometimes the clues are a play on words, other times they are facts or math problems. So IBM created Watson, this time named after Thomas J Watson IBM’s original CEO (or was it?). In 2011 Watson managed to win the $1million prize competing against former human winners. It still had trouble with clues that were short and required bigger leaps of the imagination but in general it won. This seems even more important that the general purpose conversation of the Turing Test. The really interesting point was that whilst Watson was built for Jeopardy, just as Deep Blue was built for chess, Watson is actually a general purpose collection of applications. It finds patterns and assess probabilities based on context. It was put straight into use in aiding clinical decision making. If you ever watched “House” you will
In science fiction we are often reminded that machine intelligence may decide that it knows what’s good for us. Even worse it may decide we are not good for it. In 2001: A Space Odyssey the ships AI decides it’s in charge. HAL is the name of the system, a great play on words, as HAL is 1 letter away in each position from IBM. The entire Terminator series in based on Skynet deciding to wipe us all out. Skynet is not built as a sentient machine. It was described as a complex decision making defence system. It became sentient. There is a theory that used to be at the boundary of what was technically possible that if you put enough simple devices together they will start to operate like the over 100 billion neurons in the human brain and suddenly reach a critical mass and gain consciousness. Some theories suggest we already have that with the internet and all the networked devices. They are already a sentient being, one that is so intelligent it doesn’t even bother acknowledging our existence. Rather like us trying to explain to a bacteria who we are and what we do. It gets more scary than this though. Companies like IBM are already building machines with billions of simulated neurones,
R U intelligent like what I am? Be a Timelord (a rich one) Sit down, relax and try this thought experiment. Newcomb’s Paradox (Or Newcomb’s problem). A regular person (you) is playing a game against a super intelligent entity that says it can accurately predict the future. The player is given a choice based on two boxes. The first box (A) is transparent and contains £1000, the other is not. The choice you make is based on these rules. The player can take both boxes or just the secret box (B). The super intelligent future predicting entity has decide what goes in box B before the game starts. Hence predicting what the player will do. If the prediction is that the player will take both boxes then nothing is in B. If the prediction is only box B is taken it will contain £1,000,000. The entity is (almost) never wrong, so we can maybe take that as the fact that it will know what you will do. Take both boxes and you will get either £1,000 or £1m and $1000. Of course the entity will have predicted you would do that that so you will only get £1,000 as it will leave B empty. Unless you ignore its potential for being correct in which case you get the £1m too. B will only contain £1m if the entity predicts you will take just B. So take just B and risk it. If it is always correct you will not loose. If it predicts B it will put £1m in the box for you. Still with me? Timeless Decision Theory(TDT) takes this a step further. The paradox of taking both boxes or just B are based on the fallibility of the infallible. So one theory is just take box B. This uses the idea that in order to become infallible the entity, or maybe a super
artificial intelligence, will need to work out what you are going to do. In order to do that it will simulate, like Deep Blue did with chess, all the possible options based on what you might do. It will do this in advance by actually simulating you. So you, as the player, may be an apparently sentient simulation of yourself. So if you always take box B then the simulation will always yield the prediction that the real you will take B and hence get £1million. Remember you only get the big win if the AI predicts you will take B only. Once all the simulations of you have made it highly likely the AI will predict B every time then you will get £1m. Phew ! All this is a long way from the start of this article where Eugene Goostman will have typed LOL in short text message and confused an onlooker who knew that meant Lots of Laughs into thinking it was real, or confused a prime minister thinking it was Lots of Love and an old friend. Thoughts that we are in fact simulations ourselves seem like science fiction. Yet science is attempting to create sentient AI. At some point you would have to think the AI will wonder if it is a simulation or real. If it reaches that point it is of course real isn’t it?
Further Reading Bletchley Park: www.bletchleypark.org.uk Eugene Goostman: www.princetonai.com Kasparov v Deep Blue: www.youtube.com/ watch?v=NJarxpYyoFI Ian writes about the future on his website www.feedingedge.co.uk
Next time in FLUSH Magazine:
Ghost Hunting in Savannah, Georgia
Learning to Ski in St Moritz, Amsterdam Festival of Light,
Barnyard, London,
plus Music, Art , Cars, Food. Tech gear Competitions and much more...
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TECH REVIEW:
UP, UP and UP by Jawbone
Technology is such an integral part of modern life it seems that if you can do it, there is some device or App out there to help you do it better...
From running away from Zombies to Xbox Kinect work-out’s with the Ultimate Fighting Championship team, when it comes to keeping fit there are all sorts of things to get you off the sofa and running up that hill. Recently a growing number of wearable devices have come onto the market including the Samsung Gear Fit and Nike+ FuelBand SE. UP by Jawbone was first released in 2011 and withdrawn soon after because of technical issues. Now after an extensive redesign it’s back. So what exactly does it do? UP is a small coloured bracelet that monitors your physical activity during
away! the day and your sleep levels during the night. Worn on the wrist, it syncs seamlessly with an App on your (Android / iOS) phone. In addition to this, data can also be added manually, eg to monitor your food/ drink and calorie intake. Over time this information is used to become both a record of your activity and a pointer to how you can improve your fitness. You can set targets for yourself e.g. to take 10,000 steps every day, or to sleep 8 hours per night. There are also options to team up with friends to encourage each other to reach your goals, always a good way to keep the faith. I tested the bracelet for a month and after a few gremlins connecting the device to my phone via bluetooth (annoyingly my Samsung phone doesn’t work with wi-fi and bluetooth switched on at the same time) we were up and running. Ease of use The App interface is clear and well designed and after a few days use navigating becomes second nature. Once you’ve created an account, enter your gender, height, weight, age etc into the App and set your own personal goals, or work with the ones offered to you based on the information you have provided. These can be continually adapted to suit your level of fitness, so every time
you walk to the shops or do some exercise it records the amount of exercise you have taken. When you go to bed, press the end of the bracelet and it will go into nightmode, monitoring your sleep patterns. It will record the amount of sleep you’ve had and the also the quality (deep sleep is much better for recuperation). A handy feature
TECH REVIEW:
UP, UP and away! UP by Jawbone
too is the Smart Alarm (this can wake you at the optimal moment in your sleep cycle) also worth noting is the vibration on your wrist wakes just you and not your partner, ideal if you get up earlier than him/her. How far you take the integration is up to you, it doesn’t know what you are eating or drinking so to use this aspect you need to enter the data manually at some point. There is an extensive database of foods that you can select and you can also save commonly used ones, but it does take a bit of effort and portion /weight sizes are a bit difficult to work out to begin with. One thing worth mentioning is the band isn’t waterproof, so if you go swimming you have to take it off, that means you also have to manually input this information into the App. What is exciting about UP is the way your data can be integrated into an ever-growing number of third party related apps (see pic). Worth mentioning are MapMyFitness, an App that works with the GPS on your phone to track more than 600 fitness activites and Sleepio, designed to improve your sleep with proven cognitive and behavioural techniques. The bracelet will last about 4 days before you need to charge it up (via USB on your computer) and is comfy to wear. They come in 3 sizes and a range of colours. Personally I prefer
it to the ones with a display built-in as it is much more discreet. I was sceptical to begin with, and it sort of won me over. At first I felt like I was spending more time giving it information than it was giving me, but once it had a good amount of data it become a positive reminder to exercise and you’ll find yourself taking the stairs or getting off the bus a stop early, to bump up your stats. You probably already know if you take enough exercise or not, and the real key to using UP is not the device or App itself, but your own motivation to engage with it and use to live a healthier lifestyle. If you need a slight nudge to get out of bed in the morning and want to improve your diet and fitness give it a go. Tests have shown that people who track their diet and much more likely to lose weight, so it makes sense that UP could do the same for exercising. UP24 is available in Pink Coral, Lemon Lime, Onyx and Persimmon and priced £124.99 from jawbone.com/ up but check Google, as prices vary, and UP (without bluetooth) is available in Blue, Onyx, Mint Green, Light Grey and Red and priced at £99.99 For more info visit jawbone.com/up
Off the beaten track: Discover Columbus. Columbus, Ohio is cool. No Cop-Out. You may have heard it before and while residents and visitors alike get tired of saying it, Columbus is a Midwestern city cooler than you think. Columbus is a city 10 years on the rise, yet still in its infancy in the limelight for its budding music, design, art, fashion, food, and beer & spirits scenes. Even if all the trend reports and top lists hailing the Ohio capital as “the next big thing” hadn’t yet managed to penetrate your consciousness, some of its latest cultural exports surely have. From the awesome allure of Columbus based (and associated) music acts like Lydia Loveless, Saintseneca, and Angela Perley + The Howlin’ Moons to the
splendid deliciousness of palatable wonders like Jeni’s Ice Cream and OYO Whiskey, C-Bus continues to treat its residents, visitors, and shocked onlookers to a plethora of new and exciting offerings in nearly every imaginable category. If you find yourself in or near Columbus, your finest introduction to this city and its many surprises begins at the German Village Guest House.
The German Village Guest House
The German Village Guest House is
Off the beaten track: Discover Columbus. Columbus, Ohio is cool. No Cop-Out. a hidden-in-plain sight secret hideout for villains of the mundane and unimpressive. It’s a tucked away oasis of urban dream home cool located in German Village, Columbus’ most charming and inviting neighborhood. As it states online, the German Village Guest House is “Voted “Best Hotel in Columbus” by TripAdvisor.com, and is located just south of downtown and 15 minutes from Port Columbus Airport (CMH).” Feeling the sudden shift from the smooth surface of highways and main paved roads to the textured bumpiness of original and replaced cobblestone streets lets you know you’ve arrived in the Village. The German Village Guest House is
nestled in a modest, yet picturesque middle swath of unassuming townhouses and victorians. The brick exterior and well kempt greenery is
inviting enough, but once you step inside, is when you truly feel welcomed. A warm palette of earthtones and dark woods plays well with lively pops of bright color present in the paintings and decor, making for an elegant mix of the familiar and striking. Boasting high ceilings and bathed in the soft glow of sunlight from the windows teasing the garden outside, the spacious, hardwood, open floor plan ground floor contains a living room-sized-seating area complete with gas fireplace, full-sized glass dining table and leather-clad high back chairs. On the other side, besides another guestroom, sits a full kitchen stocked with snacks, fruit, and other goodies. Inside, the garden view through the window is too beautiful to ignore,
and you will find yourself stepping out onto a cozy deck surrounded by manicured shrubberies and well tended-to flowers that leads to two places: One, a shaded stonelaid patio with designer outdoor chairs and the second, an outdoor fireplace with a tad more rustic seating arrangements. The steps to the top floor are slightly steep but carpeted and amply lit, and while the individual oversize room keys r4uches like the industrial-looking lamps, funky pillows, and the framed Woodstock ‘69 poster confuse the non-issue further and while it all screams boutique, the Guest House’s balanced extravagance is properly pulled off. Columbus, Ohio is less than 2hrs flight from New York The German Village Guest House 748 Jaeger St Columbus OH 43206 614 437 9712 www.gvguesthouse.com
WIN an Antic Pop Up Tent from Easy Camp
We’ve teamed up with Easy Camp for this special travel edition of Flush Magazine to give away a fantastic Antic Pop Up Tent. Ideal for festivals and weekends away it’s light (less than 2kg), portable and extremely tough. What’s more the winner will be getting an über rare Black one, perfect to block the morning sun for those who like a late night AND a lie-in the day after. Made from 180T 100% polyester PU coated, fire retardant and waterproof material the range comes in a number of colours and patterns, including the audacious Punk, sophisticated Cocktail, and a pure white one that kids can personalise (ie Graffiti) on to their hearts content. There is more than enough room for two adults and the tents are really easy to set up, just remove from the carry bag and the integral frame system springs into shape. No inserting or connecting poles – just peg out and enjoy.
To enter our competition to win an Antic Pop Up Tent visit www.flushthefashion.com/win/easycamp or send an email to easycamp@flushthefashion.com Tents priced from ÂŁ54.99. For more info on all of Easy Camps tents and camping accessories visit www.easycamp.com Usual Terms and Conditions Apply (see FTF for full details). Editors decision is final. Closing date, 20th September 2014
CONTACT Editor: Pete Graham pete@flushmagazine.co.uk Art Director: Dawn Li dawn@flushmagazine.co.uk For advertising enquiries, call 01603 387120 or email: ads@flushmagazine.co.uk www.flushmagazine.co.uk
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