Kendjam

K endjam Call of the Wild

Ramiro Badessich in the heart of southern Brazil’s uniquely clear and pristine Iriri River. Photo: Ken Morrish

W

hen my wife Mia said that she wanted to join me on what was likely to be the wildest exploratory trip of my career, I was surprised, excited and a bit concerned. It was not going to be your average site-check, but rather a 65-km downriver camping expedition on an exceedingly remote tributary of the Amazon. In fact, it would be in the heart of one the largest remaining pieces of virgin rainforest in the world, the wild 12-million-acre Kayapo Native Reserve in southern Brazil. It promised to be a trip back in time with native peoples striped in body paint and light-tackle, clear-water sight fishing for a cast of exotic fish species akin to the cantina scene in Star Wars. We made a quick plan. My wife Mia would read River of Doubt, Teddy Roosevelt’s Darkest Journey and if after that she still wanted go, we would jump in together. And jump we did.

Now this was by no means our own idea: to fly 3.5 hours over the vast cauliflowered canopy of the southern Amazon Basin and land in an exceedingly remote Kayapo village, mingle with the seemingly pre-contact tribespeople, and then descend another 3.5 hours by motorized canoe down a breathtakingly beautiful river to our first basecamp. It was the culmination of more than two years of research, negotiation and recon by

By Ken Morrish Rodrigo Salles and Marcelo Perez from Untamed Angling.

Best known for bringing adventuresome fly fishers the blessing and beauty of the Tsimane dorado programs in Bolivia, they were now deep into the reapplication of their template in which semi-sovereign indigenous tribes partner with, and benefit from, a constructive yet limited inflow of intrepid fly anglers. In Tsimane, this approach had created a true sensation, resulting in what I consider the most interesting and rewarding new freshwater angling destination in decades. Here, many hours by open canoe downstream of the 100 painted and seemingly reclusive residents of Kendjam, they hoped that they could create something different but equally as special.

Mia and I were two of a dozen-plus folks who were able to participate in a selective four-week exploratory season in which fly fishing professionals from three continents gave their honest opinion on the future potential of Untamed’s proposed “Kendjam” program. A bounty of key criteria were here: an unbroken indigenous culture; a huge, humbling tract of uncut rainforest; and a unique multi-species sight fishing experience on the poetically clear, boulder-strewn Iriri River. The Iriri was like no other known Amazon tributary, in that here, anglers armed with a 6 or 7-weight rod could sight cast poppers and

KENDJAM top-water flies to more than ten exotic species of fish. For the growing wave of new jungle anglers, this destination had the potential of proving the most diverse light-tackle fly fishing adventure available.

Our trip, despite the limited comforts promised by most true exploratory trips, was incredibly rich and rewarding from start to finish. Fabulous fishing helped, with eight fly-caught species landed, but it was far more than that. It was one of those rare trips where even without the fishing, it had such depth and integrity that upon our return, we felt ill-equipped to describe it. It was about the Kayapo, their village and ways, the towering jungle, the parade of exotic birds, the cacophony of sunset’s singing insects, monkeys, frogs and owls, and the sublime Japanese garden-like aesthetics of the Iriri’s round-rock banks and vegetated braids.

What follows is a description of what makes this budding destination special and what anglers in the future will experience.

The Kayapo and Kendjam The Kayapo’s miraculous emergence into the 21st century with their land, culture and largely subsistence-based lifestyle all still intact is one of indigenous culture’s greatest success

stories. When European involvement in the Amazon took off in 1900, there were 4,000 Kayapo. By 1970 there were less than 1,400, due largely to measles and other introduced diseases. Today, however, the Kayapo are thriving with over 9,000 members and 45 villages spread across a roadless, legally recognized territory half the size of the state of Washington. They are also indirectly famous, as their connectivity to their natural world and the fierceness with which they defend it inspired the storyline of Avatar. Of Brazil’s 250 indigenous tribes, the Kayapo are considered the most prosperous and powerful and of even greater significance is that their connection to their traditions and the natural world upon which they depend remains continuous and unbroken.

Of the 45 Kayapo villages, Kendjam may be the most unique. Established only in 1993, Kendjam was the result of a deliberate move by chief Pukatire and his followers to break away from an existing village/band in an effort to create a more traditional community, free of the influences of alcohol and the timber industry. While the duty of chief is now collectively shared by the younger Budyou and Djyty, Pukatire was there to observe and greet our plane as it unloaded near

Mia Morrish with her first wolf fish caught sight fishing with a 6-weight rod.

Photo: Ken Morrish

KENDJAM the shade tree on the red dirt airstrip. Neither he nor any of the Kayapo are particularly outgoing, but rather relaxed, observant and conversationally reserved with outsiders and one another.

Pukatire was once quoted as saying, “we only need the white man for three things: eyeglasses, flip-flops and flashlights.” And while he still felt strongly about preserving his people’s traditional lifestyles, he was now embracing a new sustainable model that he hoped would benefit his people without compromising the natural world upon which they depended.

Xingu Peacock Bass (Cichla melaniae): This is a unique

The Iriri River

Wolf Fish (Hoplias lacerdae): If you can imagine a cross

species of peacock bass endemic to the Xingu basin. These bass, which Brazilians generically refer to as tucunare, prefer fast-water environments where they often hold in soft shallows and eddies on the fringes of the current’s force. They average 3-6 pounds with the largest topping 12 pounds. These bass are strong, explode on poppers and provide incredible sport on a favorite 6 to 7-weight rod. Over the course of the week, an estimated 60% of your catch will be made up of these fly-friendly bruisers.

between a wicked toothy lingcod and an air-breathing coelThe 810-mile Iriri River is the 15th-longest river in the acanth, you can imagine what the Brazilians call trairao, or Amazon and the 116th-longest in the world. The Iriri originates wolf fish. Averaging 10-15 pounds on the Iriri, they lie like near the Bolivian border and is a north-flowing tributary of giant fossilized sculpin on the bottom of smaller, glassy, offthe mighty Xingu, which in volume is the world’s 60th-largest current pools waiting to ambush large prey like peacock bass. river, averaging more than 340,000 cfs. But unlike most of the They are among the most bizarre, passive-aggressive, primitive Amazon’s 1,100 dark, winding, snake-like tributaries, the Iriri fish ever pursued. They are hard to spook and at times hard to cuts a steeper, more direct course through the southern basin’s wake up. You often stand rather near them, slapping ancient, jungle-coated granite. Each epoch, the boulders here and slowly chugging poppers above them. become softer, more artistically stacked, more They may take slowly or explosively but pleasing to the eye. The beaches are coarse, clean, more often than not you lose them on a tarpeach-colored decomposed granite and the pon-like jump or because their brutal teeth break wateris a heavenly clear blue-green. Slowly moTequ il a 30-pound wire. No worries. Once they settle down toring across long pools, you watch countless turtles dive Popper they will be more motivated than ever to crush the meters into the deepening green before disappearing. same fly!

When it comes to offering anglers a second or a third Each hour you motor downstream of Kendjam, the river chance, no gamefish compares. For the surefooted, the Iriri becomes more intricate, astounding and full of life. I heard offers miles of braided bedrock terrain perfect for sight fishing mention that the nearest settlement of any helpful size was 15 the fierce wolf fish and other jungle species. days downriver during high water, and when we broke one of our last props navigating a skinny side channel, we ponPacu-borracha (Tometes sp. Valenciennes): These curious, dered, for more than a moment, what that actually implied. flat-bodied, algae-eating pacu add immeasurably to the Kendjam The bottom line is this river and the camps to which we were angling experience, due in part to the fast-water environments headed were about as deep into a rich, untouched ecosystem they inhabit. The Iriri has multiple areas where the river braids as presently possible. There were no bridges or roads or even and drops steeply with falls, whitewater chutes, powerful runs contrails, just the vast continuity of a robust and highly funcand long, broken riffles. These areas are best fished on foot tioning natural world. and often entail exciting wet wading coupled with somewhat technical trout-like dead-drift presentations. Anglers are Species Diversity best served by a 6 to 7-weight rod with a floating line and The Xingu basin (pronounced Shingu), of which the Iriri is wide range of green or olive flies tied to a wire leader. These part, is home to more than 450 fish species, 25 of which are fish will hold in incredibly fast water, even in whitewater, endemic. The Iriri itself has quite a few species with at least and can be spotted flashing as they tip sideways to feed. Best 10-12 viable species anglers target with flies. Of those, there of all, these fish, which run from 2 to 4 pounds, fight like are five species that in my mind really stand out, any of which steelhead more than twice their weight, complete with strong alone could carry an average fishing program elsewhere. runs and wild jumps.

“It was about the Kayapo, their village and ways, the towering jungle, the parade of exotic birds, the cacophony of sunset’s singing insects, monkeys, frogs and owls, and the sublime Japanese garden-like aesthetics of the Iriri’s round-rock banks and vegetated braids.”

Top: Another top-water caught peacock; a friendly caiman; chief Budyou with his daughter. Middle: The author casting a popper from the canoe. Bottom: a hearty bass; fighting the last fish of the day. Photos: Ken Morrish and Craig Derby.

KENDJAM Matrinxa (Brycon Amazonicus): Known also as jatuarana,

these strong, spooky trout-like fish provide great sport on a 6 weight rod. These fish are very plentiful and often school near shoreline structure and shadows. They are the most wary of the jungle species and present a spring-creek-like challenge that serious trout fishermen will find most appealing. Also, matrinxa go on and off the bite, making them easy at times and near bulletproof at others. They are best fished with rubber-legged dries on long leaders and they jump wildly when hooked. While they can grow to over 10 pounds, most of them are in the 2-5 pound class.

Bicuda (Boulengerella maculata): Best described as fresh-

water barracuda, bicuda are fierce, incredibly fast predatory fish that may well be the wildest fighters of all the Kendjam species. They are not plentiful, and often hold in the upper gut of larger pools. The largest specimens are near three feet long and I found them horribly hard to hook and land, going 0 for 6 during my time on the Iriri.

Fishing Program While the Kendjam project remains a work in progress, their program will be based around anglers moving between beats in 25-30’ aluminum canoes propelled by long-tailed outboards. While these boats are slow, they are stable to cast from and well suited to the environment. For each two anglers there will be one guide and two Kayapo boatmen.

Untamed Angling is training professional Brazilian fly fishing guides for next season, the majority of which will be coming over from their Rio Marié program. Additionally, guiding and service-based endeavors, let alone catering to the myopic eccentricities of fly anglers, is something completely new to the Kayapo boatmen. While they have proven to be quick studies, this craft, like all others, will take some time.

Moving forward, the river will be divided into a number of beats that anglers will rotate between. Virtually all the beats will have plenty of wade fishing and plenty of boat fishing depending on what you prefer or the species you most want to target. For those keen on sight fishing, time spent on foot exploring coves and braids is particularly fruitful.

Notes

Things to Come Kendjam will operate from June through the end of August. It will be a six-angler program where guests enjoy deluxe double occupancy safari tents built on large wooden decks overlooking a remote beach some 40 km downstream of the village of Kendjam. Tents will feature comfortable bedding, ceiling fans, showers and toilets, and there will be a dining tent and a solar charging station for guests to use. Considering their location, these may be the best-appointed accommodations in a 700mile radius. There will also be a simple camping-style spike camp an additional 25 km downriver that will open up several additional large beats of water. Anglers will have the option of spending two nights at this camp.

Despite the relative comforts of the main camp, Kendjam remains a place for hearty adventure travelers. It will always entail a significant effort to reach the unspoiled riches of the Iriri, and once there, it will mandate a willingness to interface with the jungle in all its glory. While there will be flocks of parrots, three colors of macaws, tapirs, and capybara, there will also be jaguars, rapids, and times when guests will need to help push the boats up channels too skinny to navigate. Likewise, in the river there are countless freshwater stingrays, two species of piranha, lots of curious caimans, seven-foot-long electric eels and the occasional anaconda.

Despite that, the Iriri has a bright, friendly, safe feel to it that is hard to describe. As long as one remained mindful of stingrays (the most serious of the safety concerns), all went well, enabling my wife and I to swim/bathe in the river each evening as darkness fell and our headlamps set the watching caimans’ eyes aglow. For us the entire experience was sublime and surreal; rife with colors, creatures, and compelling native culture.

To our great surprise, the days were less hot and humid than expected, the nights were fresh and cool, and there were few biting insects to speak of. In so many ways it seemed a paradise, a wild yet welcoming place of warmth and bounty, where we, like our Kayapo hosts, felt for a time our connection and place within the vast continuum of nature’s brilliant order.

Travel: Anglers will fly to Manaus, Brazil and overnight before taking a Cessna Caravan flight to the village of Kendjam. There, they will boat three hours downstream to the main camp.

Season: June-August. The water will tend to be lower later in the season and this will make travel slower.

Capacity: Six anglers Essential Tackle: 6 to 7-weight rods with a weight forward floating line.

Top Flies: Tequila popper, Puglisi baitfish, olive woolly bugger 2016 Rates: $6,500 plus $650 Native Community fee per person

Top: Clear night skies over the 2015 exploratory camp. Middle: In search of the fast water dwelling pacu boratcha; releasing a hefty wolf fish. Bottom: Robin with a hard fighting pacu boratcha; Craig Derby sight casts for spooky matrinxa; Ramiro and the author kicking back with the chief in the village of Kendjam. Photos: Ken Morrish and Craig Derby