CHILE’S REIGNING
KINGS Fly fishing for Austral Chinook. By Ken Morrish
I
FOR THOSE WHO HAVE NOT visited the rivers of southern Chile’s Pacific coast, with the exception of differing plant species, their resemblance to some of the of the Pacific Northwest’s greatest rivers, like the Dean, are at times, uncanny. So why not dump a few salmon smolts in a few likely rivers where they might take hold? Interestingly, Chile’s efforts to establish naturalized returns of Pacific salmon go back as far as 1924. Since then there have been many attempts with multiple species, all of which failed until Japanese ‘fish ranchers’ invested heavily in 1978. From 1978-1989, these ranchers released hundreds of thousands of Chinook smolts from the lower Columbia’s Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery into the Petrohué River and the adjacent systems of the Reloncavi Estuary (41.5 degrees south, the southern equivalent of California’s Klamath River). Their plan was to release smolts into the rivers and commercially harvest them when they returned. For multiple reasons,
44
www.travelinganglermagazine.com
ken morrish photo
F 25 YEARS AGO SOMEONE predicted that in 2017 Chile would be home to some of the world’s heathiest returns of wild Chinook salmon, I would have predicted that by 2017 they would be long since institutionalized. But the facts of the matter speak differently. Today Chile is a powerhouse producer of ‘wild’ kings, most of which run larger on average than those in their natal northern waters. How did this come to be? Is it a miracle or a mess? Likely time will tell.
The author with a handsome hen that fell for a bright pink Intruder.
traveling angler
45
The scenery resembles a mash-up of coastal BC, Norway and Yosemite.
including the long saltwater life cycle of Chinook, the Japanese were disappointed by the results and abandoned their efforts before they amounted to much. Their business venture failed, and they went home. But there was one subtle success: a small percentage of the smolts survived, lived at sea, and successfully spawned to create a unique “wildized” form of South American Chinook. This, in turn, forever changed the landscape and trajectory of one the world’s greatest gamefish as well as the angling opportunities for those that love to fish for them. By the early 2000s, rivers like the Tolten, Puelo and Petrohué were receiving large runs of Chinooks, many of which were over 40 pounds. At the same time, this new race of southern kings was aggressively expanding its range, from the 39th parallel south all the way to Tierra del Fuego. Ultimately, they rounded the horn of South America to the Atlantic and then migrated north into southern Argentina’s mighty Santa Cruz system. For whatever reason, our northern kings found a well-suited home away from home in South America. Today there are likely hundreds of systems of all sizes and types that support ‘wildized’ returns of kings in Patagonia. Irrespective of their common origins, run timing is highly variable making it hard to say if these are now spring-, summer- or fall-run Chinook. Some systems receive fish as early as October and others get their last bright fish as late as April. Over my 30 years in the fly fishing industry, I would be hard pressed to say that I have ever met an individual, let alone twins, that have a higher drive for angling exploration than Alex and Nico Trochine. When I first met them on Argentina’s upper Rio Grande they were 19, highly skilled and had already
46
www.travelinganglermagazine.com
ken morrish photo
ken morrish photo
pored over maps and Google Earth and made trips to a multitude of potential systems. Then, mid-king season 2015, Alex and his girlfriend Laura got off a boat near the mouth of the last promising river on their list. Donning heavy backpacks, they snuck up the system, surreptitiously camping and fishing the runs they could bushwhack into without a boat. After landing several chromebright fish in the 30-pound class and getting introduced to the landowner, they knew they had finally found what they had been searching for: their own slice of Chinook heaven. Alex and Nico worked with the landowner, selected a spectacular site and built an elaborate and appealing tent camp. They named it Austral (meaning southern) Kings. Their inaugural season was 2016 and it was a major success. The unnamed river was loaded with fish, water conditions were, for the most part, favorable and a good many kings, some of which were in the 40- to 60-pound class, were landed. The river where Alex and Nico set up their operation is located south of Puerto Montt, a city best known as a hub for the Andes Mountains and the Patagonia fjords. During the 2017 season they ran two parallel programs: the Austral Kings Camp (which I visited), and the Austral Kings Lodge, which they co-managed with a local accommodation. The 2017 season proved to be a very tough sophomore year. While it was likely that there were plenty of fish, there was even more water. The season started with high water and culminated with a biblical high-water event that the locals deemed unprecedented. While it was a different season than their first, the river showed glimpses of its potential. The Austral Kings Camp, located sev-
guided several seasons in Iceland. That fall they were heading out to explore Tierra del Fuego’s southernmost sea trout rivers. Over the course of several seasons this developed into their operation called Far End Rivers (known today as World’s End Rivers and operated by a different outfitter). Next they were off to explore, float and outfit an exceedingly remote dorado system in Bolivia. From there, they went on to find and establish Kooi Noom; an ultra-steep river-based trophy rainbow fishery north of the Fitz Roy massif on the edge of Argentina’s Patagonian Steppe. In 2014 Alex and Nico embarked on a new mission to set up the ultimate program for targeting Chilean kings on the fly. The only problem was where. They had already explored and fished a great many of Chile’s most prolific king rivers, but due to their size, clarity, or distance from the ocean, all fell somewhat short of their ideal setup. Their criteria were simple. They needed big chrome-bright fish, clear water and a system that was relatively remote with the right structural elements for swinging flies. They
ken morrish photo
Before and after: Nils Rinaldi puts the finishing touches on a fish hooked in a classic swing run then prepares to release it (below).
ken morrish photo
bay, will also take four guests per week. Here, folks will have their own single occupancy rooms with attached bath and shower and enjoy a rustic but comfortable Chilean lodging experience. Both the lodge and the camp share all the beats of water, rotating between them. In North America, we enjoy a tradition of fly fishing for king salmon that, in California, dates back to the 1920s. In subsequent years throughout Oregon, California, Washington, British Columbia and Alaska, a great many independent and somewhat isolated fly fishing methodologies arose organically among unique regional fisheries. In many ways, this spirit of king fishing innovation is still alive today as seen most clearly through the Spey fishing revolution. One of the great characteristics that Chinook salmon share with other great gamefish is that there are many techniques that can lead to success, with some, depending on condi-
eral miles above tidewater in the heart of the upper river’s prime pools, will take four anglers per week. They will share comfortable double-occupancy canvas tents and have access to a main dining tent, flush toilets and showers. It is a super location and setup for those who don’t mind roughing it a wee bit, and has a fun, lively local flare. Austral River Lodge is also back in play with a new European outfitter that will have experienced Canadian fly fishing guides. The Lodge, which overlooks the lower tidal reaches of the river/
tions, being more effective than others. Due to the sheer number of fish that enter the Austral Kings system, there will be a wide variety of angling opportunities, ranging from traditional step and cast Spey fishing, to swinging flies from boats, to stripping flies with single hand rods through deep slow pools. This remarkable river has great water for all of the above and best of all, these fish tend to use all of these water types. The river is steep and clear, and slows condiderably in its lower reaches before emptying into a fjord. It is not uncommon to see chrome bright fish rolling in the estuary as anglers arrive to the region by boat. With tides that average 20 feet, there are lots of great tidewater opportunities. The upper river is turquoise colored and runs through a lush green valley surrounded by glacier-capped granite mountains and has a variety of fishy structure, including gravel beaches, big boulders, classic tail-outs and deep runs. More often than not, these fish roll so you will know when you are onto them making this some of the most exciting king fishing imaginable. Despite a wide range of regional variations, it is my opinion that there are two basic, distinct and reputable methodologies when it comes to fly fishing for king salmon: the traveling angler
47
ken morrish photo
ken morrish photo
Austral kings are fond of small flies, especially as the water drops and clears.
northern school and the southern school. The northern school is practiced throughout most of Alaska and British Columbia and favors large flies, heavy tips and strong short leaders. These basic principles have also become the core of the Spey fishing movement for Chinook salmon and are what most think of when targeting these great fish. The southern school is much older and in many ways more established and technical. It was refined in the 1950s in California and evolved rapidly through the 1980s by luminaries like Bill Schadt. It continues to be practiced and refined in Northern California and Oregon, especially in tidewater and in the lower reaches of coastal rivers. It relies on single hand rods, a wide range of 30-foot shooting heads, mono running lines, long leaders and small flies that are retrieved while
48
www.travelinganglermagazine.com
fishing from prams. It has long been my belief that the farther north one fishes for Chinook, the more aggressive and grabby they become, and the farther south you fish for them, the craftier one must be. The upshot is that both the northern and southern schools of thought are well suited for where they are practiced. In traveling to Chile, it was my assumption that we would employ the northern methods with 14-foot, 9-weight. rods, Skagit heads and relatively large bright flies. For many anglers, and under many conditions, this is the clear method of choice. Then at the last moment, I heard that the river was low and clear and the sun was shining and that were lots of fish rolling but very few biting. So, as an afterthought, I threw in all of my small bonefish flies, as well as some
Clousers and California comet-style flies. This proved a good move and while we caught fish both ways, it seemed that as the river dropped and cleared and visibility increased to over 10 feet that fishing small flies on 12-foot leaders clearly out-produced standard Spey tactics. With that said, let it be known that despite one’s prowess with a wide range of techniques, this river is tough and its fish qualify as finicky. While the numbers of fish are high, landing one quality fish a day is a sign of both good fortune and accomplishment. As one might expect, the Trochines have had the benefit of guiding experienced Pacific and Atlantic salmon fisherman from around the world. As part and parcel of that, they have had the rare opportunity to test and develop their own methods for their river, often mixing it up for each specific pool. To date, they employ both the northern and the southern methods as well as blending the two. They, and the new team at Austral River Lodge, are lucky indeed. Not only do they have a river that has some of the largest and most beautiful kings in the world today, but they have a unique opportunity to reveal the preferences and peculiarities of a new race of Chinook that not long ago, could have only been imagined.
LOCATION
The Austral Kings Camp is located in southern Chile several hours south of the city of Puerto Montt. SPECIES King Salmon RIVERS Austral River SEASON January, February, March FLIGHTS Most U.S. anglers will fly through Miami, Houston or Los Angeles and then onto Santiago, Chile. The final flight leg will be to Puerto Montt. PASSPORTS/VISAS You will need a valid passport to enter Chile. Please make sure your passport is valid for the duration of your stay in Chile. U.S. citizens traveling to Chile for recreation and tourism do not need to obtain a visa prior to their arrival to Chile. A tourist card (really just a slip of paper) for a stay of up to 90 days will be issued upon entry. This card must be presented upon departure so make sure to check that you have it before departure. Failure to do so may result in delays. If lost or stolen, the tourist card can be replaced by the International Police at their nearest headquarters. CUSTOMS Travelers will go through customs in Santiago, Chile. TIME ZONE Chile is four hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time. WEATHER Temperatures will typically range from 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Rain is possible at any time. LANGUAGE Spanish is the language of Chile but guides all speak English. CURRENCY/TRAVEL CASH There is no need to exchange many U.S. dollars into Chilean Pesos for your travels. It is recommended that you travel with approximately $1,000-$1,250 (per week of travel) for gratuities, alcohol, and miscellaneous gifts. It is wise to have at least $50 U.S. changed to pesos for small in town tipping and/or on the road snacks/drinks. Use cash only as traveler’s checks and credit cards are not accepted on site. CREDIT CARDS While in main towns and airports credit cards work well. Outside of these areas they are useless. POWER AND COMMUNICATIONS The camp and lodge have reliable electric power during the evening hours and limited back-up battery lighting for after hours (220 volts, 50 cycles, generator powered). For the most part, a “Type C” two-pronged travel plug adaptor should work fine throughout Chile. The camp and lodge also have a satellite phone for emergency use. There is no cell phone or internet service available. FISHING LICENSES Fishing licenses are included and issued on-site. MEDICAL FACILITIES There are no nearby medical facilities. Due to the remote location, it is strongly recommended that anglers purchase
travel insurance and medical evacuation coverage. Fly Water Travel recommends Global Rescue. WATER There is no problem drinking water from the camp faucets; however potable water is always available. The camp and lodge will provide you with a reusable water bottle and filtered water will be available in the kitchen at all times. CLOTHING/PACKING SUGGESTIONS The summer climate of this southernmost area of South America is extremely changeable; a wide range of temperatures and conditions should be expected within hours. Anglers are advised to wear layers of clothing, allowing you to add or subtract garments during the day. All guests should be prepared with thermal underwear, fleece/soft shell jacket, and a reliable rain jacket. We also highly recommend bringing your own headlamp or flash light. SPEY RODS 13- to 15-foot Spey rods in line weights 8-10. 14ft rods are nice for lifting the heavy tips or sinking heads. Spare rods are a good idea in case of an accident. SPEY LINES Skagit heads like the Airflo Skagit Compact or the Rio Skagit Max. Anglers are also using more intermediate Skagit heads like the SA Skagit Extreme, the Airflo Skagit Intermediate, or the Rio IFlight for fishing deep. It is recommended that you have at least one of these. Also, two good options for full sinking shooting heads include the Rio UST and the Nextcast Salar Finder; both have Scandi taper design, easy to cast, sink 3/5, 5, 5/7 are highly recommended. SPEY TIPS Custom Spey tips made from Rio T-14 through T-20 in 12, 15, 18 and 20 foot lengths are staples. SINGLE HAND RODS 9-11ft / 9-10wt. SINGLE HAND LINES Integrated 24-foot sinking heads like the Teeny in 300-500 grains, or 30 foot sinking shooting heads in various sink rates. REELS Most high-quality saltwater reels do the job. Spool with 250 yards of 30-plus pound backing for kings. LEADERS 5- to 12-foot level leaders in 15 to 25 pounds for sinking lines. TIPPET Maxima Ultra Green or Seaguar flourocarbon are the tippet materials of choice. Have it in 15 to 30 pounds. KING FLIES 3- to 4-inch patterns with size 1/0 - 2/0 trailing hooks are popular during high water. RECOMMENDED Intruder type flies, string leeches and large tubes are popular. Have weighted and un-weighted versions with lean easy to cast flies being the most popular. Tubes are excellent as you can use a variety of strong trailing hooks. Also note that the clarity of this river has led to much more refined methods where long leaders and very small flies have proven effective. Small Atlantic
ken morrish photo
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
WHEN YOU GO
salmon flies are great choice with stout single or double trailers. Custom tied comets in size 6-10 are a good choice as are store bought flies like Clouser minnows, Morrish Crab Cakes and Weedless Wonders in Size 8. Be creative as these fish are fickle. ACCOMMODATIONS AND MEALS Austral Kings is comprised of the following two programs. They are located roughly 12 kilometers apart and will share fishing beats. Meals will vary between the two operations but tend to be hearty and good with beef, chicken and seafood. AUSTRAL KINGS CAMP Despite the remote location, this wilderness camp is Chilean “glamping” at its finest. Guests will stay in two spacious double occupancy luxury canvas tents equipped with comfortable beds, chairs, and equipment storage. There is a bathhouse with two bathrooms – each having a shower (with hot running water), sink, and flush toilet. All meals will be prepared in the fixed camp kitchen and served in a large dining/ lounge tent. While it would not be fair to call this camp luxurious, it has been thoughtfully constructed and is very comfortable by camp standards. It is located in the middle of the upper river’s most productive reach in spectacular setting near the river. AUSTRAL RIVER LODGE The lodge, which overlooks the fjord into which the river empties, is the most comfortable of the accommodation options. Here anglers will enjoy single occupancy rooms with attached shower and bath as well as easy access to power and potentially even cell. The lodge is built in Chile’s classic rustic style featuring lots of local hardwoods and natural edges. There is a wood burning stove, a common sitting area and relatively easy access to the lower tidal reaches of the river and estuary. BOOKING OPTIONS For availability and insight into both operations, contact Kyle at Fly Water Travel. Kyle@flywatertravel.com or 800-552-2729. traveling angler
49