Culinary Spotlight

PICANHA (pee-kha-nyah) A Brazilian Forte

We live in a region that is still very galvanized by a meat and potatoes diet. As a chef, it’s always a bit challenging to find ways to continuously generate creative and exciting new ways to bring these items to customers. So, when discussing the preparation of any grilled beef item it is wise to reference South American technique for inspiration. Countries like Brazil have long been perfecting the art of cooking, presenting and eating red meat.

By Eric Watson Photos by Hillary Ehlen and Eric Watson

Not long ago I stumbled across an email referencing a Brazilian style sirloin cap. I’ve long been a fan of sirloin cap so, naturally this caption caught my attention. In America, the sirloin cap is removed from the top sirloin and typically sold to consumers with the fat entirely removed. In Brazil however, the fat is left intact. For obvious reasons, of course. Fat always provides increased level of moisture and flavor.

This sirloin cap is not typically found in American butcher shops unless requested. Even then, you’ll need to specify that you’d prefer they leave the fat intact. This cut of beef provides a flavor profile similar to a lesser marbled ribeye with a tenderness that is surprising for a sirloin. In Brazil, Picanha is often skewered and cooked on a spit rotisserie, although we will discuss an altered grilling technique. Once you’ve secured this cut of beef you’ll need to follow some simple, yet patience requiring, cooking steps.

First you must trim the cap of any visible sinew, or silver skin, and any excessive fatty pieces along the edges. The sirloin cap must then be cut into 1 ½ to 2 inch steaks. It’s very important that you cut with the grain when cutting the steaks (you will be cutting them against the grain for service). At this point you should lightly season with a coarse salt, place on a baking rack on a sheet tray and place in the refrigerator uncovered overnight. This process will allow the surface to dry adequately for the cooking process.

The next day, remove the steaks from the refrigerator and allow to sit at room temperature for approximately 30 minutes. Place the steaks in a smoker at 200 degrees until the steaks reach an enteral temperature of no more than 110 degrees (1-2 hours). At this point the steaks can be seared on a grill. Make sure your grill is hot! This process shouldn’t take long. You’re looking to create a hard seared exterior without cooking the steaks beyond medium rare.

Allow the steaks to rest for at least 10-15 minutes after removing from the grill. Cut the steaks against the grain and present with accompaniments of your choice. I would recommend a classic Chimichurri sauce for sure.

This cut of sirloin is delicious and this preparation will take the flavor profile to the next level. The Brazilian version requires the fat stay intact and that the finished product be served with that fat. Whether or not you eat that fat is what will determine just how serious of a “Steak Eater” you really are!

Eric Watson is the owner of Rustica Eatery and Tavern in Moorhead and Mosaic Foods in Fargo. He is also the founder and president of the Fargo branch of the American Culinary Federation.