Editor's note
I
A ballet with platters
ndian food is different varieties of humour in disguise. You can be delighted for all that you want (smiling with the salty, sweet, bitter or the umami), but the variety will never end. It’s a platter of stage set up where the props are instilled in small bowls and where taste takes out a ballet. Indian food is one of the most luxurious taste experiences in the world. Rich or poor, we know how to make our platter. It’s a unique presentation, rather a legacy of taste passed down generations after generations in its myriad presentations, crafted in different wares and taste varieties. India is a culinary hydra. The moment
you start thinking that you have finished experiencing a region’s food, another one quite unique and different in its own right will spring up with a delicious surprise. In our warehouse of delicacies, this edition is yet another culinary package unfolding. Meet Muzaffar Ali in the Celeb Talk section and you will add to your perspective on royal cuisine, the fuel is further added via our story on the Salar Jung of Hyderabad in the State wise section. In Delish, we delectably bring to you Samosas, the eternal Indian favourite snack and the variety of Indian thalis in the Food Trail section. We also take you through an eventful interview with Chef Rakesh
Sethi all the while munching away on the lesser known sweets of India in the Sweet Take section. The season of festivities and celebrations has arrived and the magazine is merely a reflection of the colours on play in the world and in many cultures. FnB Buzz team wishes everyone a very happy Diwali way in advance and hope all of you have enjoyed the Durga Puja festival. Cheers!
Urvashi Agrawal
Chairman Shyam Sunder Publisher Pawan Agrawal Director Shishir Bhushan
The spectre of
Editorial Editor Urvashi Agrawal Senior Consulting Editor Ashish Chopra Deputy Editor Diana Mehra Manager – Sales & Marketing Vishal Kishore Corporate Communications Natasha Creative Senior Graphic Designers Manish Kumar Alka Sharma Production Dilshad and Dabeer Webmaster Amit Jain IT Operations Sonia Shaw Abhishek Bhargava Photographer Subhash Circulation and Distribution Prem Kumar Legal Advisor Deepak Gupta Contact Us Publisher ceo@oceanmedia.in Editor urvashi@oceanmedia.in +91-11-23243999, 23287999, 9958382999 info@oceanmedia.in | www.fnbbuzz.com Advertising and Marketing info@oceanmedia.in Editorial and Corporate Office Prabhat Prakashan Tower 4/19, Asaf Ali Road New Delhi-110002 (India) Disclaimer
All rights reserved. Reproduction and translation in any language in whole or in part by any means without permission from Food and Beverage Buzz is prohibited. Opinions expressed are those of the individual writers and do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher and/or editors. All disputes are subject to jurisdiction of Delhi Courts. Food and Bevergage Buzz Magazine is printed, published and owned by Pawan Agrawal and printed at Graphic World, 1686, Kucha Dakhini Rai, Daryaganj, New Delhi-110002 and published at 4/19, Asaf Ali Road, New Delhi (India). Editor : Urvashi Agrawal
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diversity
good magazine always speaks out by its content and visuals especially if it is either a travel, lifestyle or a food magazine. We completed our first anniversary in September and are proud of it. This has happened and the credit goes to our contributors and the entire team. Our contributors have added value to our content and made it extremely qualitative while our in-house team has toiled hard, be it the layout, design, editing, selection of photographs, etc. As we enter our second year this month, our resolve will only get stronger to strive towards our objectives and to the satisfaction of our readers to its fullest. This October, Food and Beverage Buzz magazine will play a prelude to a landmark event that is slated for November as we prepare our love for food and culture with our event Swad Sankriti. Food has always forged an intrinsic bond with us. Our gastronomical quest dates back to the Vedic age when humans shifted from nomadic life to semi-urban societies which brought about a huge change in our food habits. And food for our ancestors was not confined to sumptuousness of taste; it was a passage of rites leading to a healthy lifestyle. Food was interspersed with philosophy and mystical aspects of wisdom and sexually healthy life and hence great care was taken to prepare popular dishes of that time. This event is the first of its kind to showcase the lost culinary history, talk about its conservation and also discuss the importance of milk since Vedic times. For sure, a first and spreading the good word about food has become all the more easy today with the arrival of digital media. Digital spaces like Instagram and Facebook are flooded with the pictures of food uploaded by the common users. One in every five user of digital media is clicking the pictures of the food plate or a drink one likes. The conclave organised by our magazine will not only take up these issues but ensure that the deliberations and the views expressed by our experts shared by our valued readers and also invite their suggestions for us to add more content and value to our magazine. Till then enjoy our October editon and do share your feedback with us.
Ashish Chopra
Con
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On THE COVER
Food and Beverage Buzz is celebrating India’s ancient knowledge with stories on mortar and pestle
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ts
C the hilli p b o and lood wder f l a stre lso ow incr ea in ss a wh ids in the ses ic b r infe h is h elievi ody rtil elpf ng ity ul i n
06 delish
Story of The Samosa
10 In focus
Having Fun With Foods
13 health
Fertility Ingredients
16 inspiring
Mushrooming lives in Uttarakhand
18 statewise
The Salar Jung’s Kitchen Secrets
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22 check in
Culinary Heritage of the Nawabs - Muzaffar Ali
34 heritage
Nature’s sacred bastion Mangar
celeb talk
Mortar and pestle the ancient kitchen tool that still survives
Aarti Kapur Singh
48 snacky treat
40
food trail
India’s diversity on a platter... thalis of India
Ashish Chopra
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legend
Tryst with the Culinary Magician
Steamed Indian Snacks
52 liquids
Classic Coffees
58 globally
Halloween Trick or treat
62 sweet take
Off the Sweetened Path
Diana Mehra October 2017
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Gape at
The life of the
streets of Kumartuli
Kumartuli is Bengal's world famous potters hub – the greatest artists live here, incognito, hidden in the tiniest rooms, many of which having only a single bulb, creating the most spectacular work your eyes can see. This is reminiscing the Durga Puja
Kounteya Sinha The photographer is a world renowned award winning journalist and photographer with over 16,000 articles to his credit and 20 million hits. He is an explorer and story teller who has travelled to over 50 countries in the world revealing stories that he says "is trying so hard to hide from human eye". He plans to travel the whole world by the year 2023. He was the United Kingdom and Europe correspondent of The Times of India (TOI).
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The streets of Kumartuli from where the goddess walks out for the Puja and where everyday looks like the Puja day
October 2017
Food and Beverage Buzz
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DELISH
Story of
The Samosa
Samosas are an all-time favourite Indian snack. What we don't know is that Indians are not the only lovers across the globe to worship the ubiquitous taste of the samosas
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Samosas were introduced by traders from Central Asia
Aarti Kapur Singh The writer has been writing on cinema and lifestyle for more than a decade. Her interest in cinema is also why she is pursuing a doctorate on the subject. An ardent foodie, she feels travelling and eating are the best stress-busters.
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et’s get this straight at the very outset. The ubiquitous samosa – our very own popular snack at every railway station, every city bazaar and any canteen – was never ours. Yes, it is true! Be it an evening chat with friends at the street corner khoka or a sophisticated business meeting in an air-conditioned room, the call for a samosa remains constant. But the neatly folded, tightly packed savoury goodness that we thought belonged to India actually travelled here all the way from Central Asia centuries ago. But thanks to its amazing appeal, it cleverly adapted to local tastes and happily settled among the foodies of South Asia (yes, it is even popular in China and Korea) and became a staple offering.
The Journey of the Samosa From Egypt to Libya and from Central Asia to India, the stuffed triangle with different names has garnered immense popularity. Originally named
samsa, after the pyramids in Central Asia, historical accounts also refer to it as sanbusak, sanbusaq or even sanbusaj, all deriving from the Persian word, sanbosag. The samosa is claimed to have originated in the Middle East (where it is known as sambosa ) prior to the 10th century. Abolfazl Beyhaqi (995-1077), an Iranian historian, mentioned it in his history book, Tarikh-e Beyhaghi. Samosas were introduced to the Indian subcontinent in the 13th or 14th century by traders from Central Asia. Amir Khusrow (1253–1325), a scholar and the royal poet of the Delhi Sultanate, wrote in around c. 1300 CE that the princes and nobles enjoyed the “samosa prepared from meat, ghee, onion and so on”. Ibn Battuta, a 14thcentury traveller (British english) and explorer, describes a meal at the court of Muhammad bin Tughluq, where the samushak or sambusak, a small pie stuffed with minced meat, almonds, pistachios, walnuts and spices, was served before the third course of pulao. The Ain-i-Akbari, a 16th-century Mughal document, mentions the recipe for qutab, which it says, “the people of Hindustan call sanbúsah”. Samosas were brought to India by various Muslim merchants and patronised under various Islamic dynasties in the region. In South Asia, it was introduced by the Middle Eastern chefs during the Delhi Sultanate rule, although some accounts credit traders for bringing the fare to this part of the world. Nevertheless, from its humble beginning – in older days, when people used to cook the mince-filled triangles over campfire October 2017
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samosa is the gorgeous, deep fried, twisted pack of spicy goodnesss and eat them as snacks during travel — samosa has come a long way. And after having earned the blessings of the Indian royalty, the snack soon became food fit for the kings.
Sumptuous Samosa Variants Commonly, samosa is the gorgeous, deep fried, twisted pack of spicy goodness that is filled with chicken, meat or potatoes. After its arrival in India, the samosa was adapted as a vegetarian dish in Uttar Pradesh. Centuries later, the samosa is now one of the most popular vegetarian snacks in India. Meat samosas are also common in North India and Pakistan, with minced beef, lamb and chicken being the most popular fillings. Paneer is another popular ingredient used in northern India. The sweet samosa, known as mawa or gujiya samosa is also eaten in some parts of India, particularly during the festival of Diwali. In South India, samosas are influenced by the local cuisine; they are made with South Indian spices. They are also folded differently and usually
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eaten without chutney. Apart from the familiar ingredients, South Indian samosas may also include carrots, cabbage and curry leaves. In Hyderabad, the samosa is known as lukhmi and has a thicker pastry crust and is usually filled with minced-meat. Shingaras, consumed in West Bengal, are smaller and sweeter than samosas. The Goan samosa is known as a chamuças, which is made with minced pork, chicken or beef.
International Appeal Today, samosa is a popular snack in many parts of the world. The Bangladeshi version of the fullshaped samosa is called a shingara and is normally much smaller than the standard Indian variety. The shingara is usually filled with chopped potatoes and vegetables. In Nepal, samosas are called singadas in the Eastern Zone; the rest of the country calls it samosa. In Pakistan, samosas of Karachi are famous for their spicy flavour, whereas samosas from Faisalabad are noted for being unusually large. Another distinct variety of samosa available in Karachi, is called kaghazi samosa because of its
Samosas are best paired with the garam-garam masala chai
thin and crispy crust, which resembles a wonton or spring roll wrapper. The types and varieties of samosa made in Maldivian cuisine are known as bajiyaa. They are filled with a mixture, which includes fish or tuna and onions. In Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Xinjiang, samosas are known as samsas. They are almost always baked and never fried. Central Asian samsa resemble buns stuffed with beef or lamb and vegetables. Samosas are called samusas in Burmese and are flatter in comparison to the swollen Indian version. The local equivalent of samosas in Indonesia is known as pastel. They are usually filled with eggs, minced beef or chicken. Samosas are a staple of local cuisine in the Horn of Africa (Djibouti, Eritrea, Ethiopia and Somalia), where they are known as samboosa. While they can be eaten any time of the year, they are usually reserved for special occasions. In Israel, a sambusak is a semi-circular pocket of dough filled with mashed
Samosas are an all-time favourite Indian snack
The samosa has been a very popular South Asian cuisine since the last eight centuries
chickpeas, fried onions and spices. There is another variety filled with meat, fried onions, parsley, spices and pine nuts, which is sometimes mixed with mashed chickpeas and breakfast version with feta or tzfat cheese and za’atar. The Israeli sambusak is not as spicy as the Indian version. According to Gil Marks, an Israeli food historian, sambusak has been a traditional part of the Sephardic Sabbath meal since the thirteenth century. In Portugal, samosas are known as chamuças. They are usually filled with chicken, beef, pork, lamb or vegetables, and generally served hot. A samosa-inspired snack is also very common in Brazil.
Samosa Innovations In the globalised world of today, the growing popularity of fusion food has witnessed the advent of the pizza
samosa, macaroni samosa and even Maggi samosa. Dessert varieties inspired by western cuisine include the apple pie samosa, chocolate samosa and even an ice cream samosa! The samosa has become so common that it is now sold in the big chain supermarkets. It is available as ready meal, as a ready-to-eat snack in the deli section, and as a frozen food item. Frozen samosas are increasingly available in grocery stores in Canada, the United States and the United Kingdom. Samosas are a truly international food enjoyed by millions around the globe. Whether you are travelling to one of the countries mentioned above or just sitting in your living room; wow your taste buds with the taste of the humble yet fiery samosa. October 2017
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in focus
Having Fun With Foods Dr Oetker is a German company that produces various food products. It has taken over Funfoods and is creating yummy experiences in India
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atching up with Oliver Mirza, the CEO and Managing Director of Dr Oetkar, Food and Beverage Buzz magazine learns about their market plans and the success story they have built. Read up for more insight details on the plans by Oliver Mirza on how he plans to rule the taste buds of India.
Diana Mehra The writer is the Deputy Editor of Food and Beverage Buzz Magazine and Defence and Security Alert Magazine.
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How has your journey been so far with Dr Oetker? “The journey as a brand and as an individual has been extremely inspirational. Dr Oetker entered India in the year 2008 and I was one of its founding members. In our initial approach towards the Indian market, we brought our international range to India. Very soon, we realised that the products will not work and there is a need to innovate. The entire market entry strategy was revised and we decided to acquire a local company; a brand which operates in the same space as Dr Oetker does internationally, which is Western comfort food. After reviewing numerous companies, we zeroed in on FunFoods, which was present in the country since 1983, and their line of business was close to what we do. FunFoods was the then market leader in sauces category and there was a
scope to grow the brand by revisiting the strategy and the range, hence we decided to acquire the company. There has been no looking back since then. Since the acquisition, we have witnessed an incredible growth in the company, which grew by over 10 times in retail. We are now the leaders in Western Sauces & Spreads category in the country offering great products. We are strongly dedicated to serve the best to our consumers and we believe that ‘Quality is the best recipe’. Our international expertise in Western comfort food and our modern manufacturing plants help us live by our approach of serving only the best.” What are the future expansion goals of Dr Oetker? “Dr Oetker aims to be ` 1000 crore company by the year 2020 with ` 500 crore coming from FunFoods and the rest from soon to be launched sub-brands under the Dr Oetker umbrella. With the launch of our new state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in Kaharani, Rajasthan, we aim to further boost our reach in the country. Currently, the plant has a production capacity of 25,000 tonnes annually which is sufficient to cater to
Oliver Mirza October 2017
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Dr Oetkar has a variety of food product range the needs of the Indian market and by early next year, we plan to start exports to countries like Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Nepal and South Asia.
We are looking at aggressive expansion plans
We are looking at aggressive expansion plans. In terms of product innovation, we are expanding the peanut butter category with the launch of the chocolate variant across India this month. Our focus will be to further grow the market for Mayonnaise, Sandwich Spreads, Peanut Butter and Italian sauces category through consumer education. Additionally, we do plan to explore the Frozen Pizza category in the next couple of years.”
and health conscious options, we introduced Diet Mayo and Olive oil Mayo to our consumers.
What opportunities does the Indian market hold for Dr Oetker? “With widespread tastes and changing consumer demands, Dr Oetker is constantly evolving and serving new products. While consumers today consider convenience as the biggest factor for cooking but it is not at the cost of quality and taste. This insight from the market research led us to introduce the ‘Indianised’ variants in our Mayonnaise range with products like Tandoori Mayo, Mint Mayo, and it has worked well for us. When the shift in market was towards diet
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With increasing disposable incomes and changing mind-sets, there are many new trends in the country when it comes to food. We plan to tap into those mind-sets with our experimental offerings. Our aim is to educate consumers on the versatility while exploring the untapped territories and other segments simultaneously. We will continue to provide a range of versatile products with multiple usage and applications.” Any special anecdote which you will always recount when you think about Dr Oetker? “The biggest learning for the brand in India has been ‘Whatever we do internationally doesn’t work here and we need to innovate for the local culture’. It is essential to understand the complex Indian market, with its different tastes and expectations. We bridged this gap by having researches like UNA (Usage and Attitude) and shopper’s study, whether it is on Spreads, Italian
Sauces or Mayonnaise and then created our range to suit the consumer needs. This has paid off, as currently we are the leaders in the mayonnaise market owning a whopping 70% market share.” What are the current market challenges Dr Oetker is facing? “Increasing brand clutter, reducing top-of-the-mind recall and brand loyalty amongst consumers are the key challenges in our industry. However, we as a brand do not worry about this fact as we are focused on quality and evolving consumer needs and that is the reason why today we are a leader in Mayonnaise, Sandwich Spreads, Peanut Butter, and Italian sauces category.” What made Dr Oetker a success story? “We have believed in understanding the consumer needs, innovate and evolve with time that has made us market leaders in multiple segments. We will introduce products that will reciprocate the brands ideology of ‘Quality is the best recipe’.”
health
Fertility
Ingredients
Good quality spices add taste to the food and most of these spices have medicinal properties but little do we know that spices also boost male and female fertility
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I
ndia is known for the authenticity of its spices. Apart from adding colour, flavour and taste, consumption of spices also provides infinite health benefits and is also good for boosting the fertility in both females and males. Here are the various Indian spices that have effects on fertility:
Dr Kaberi Banerjee IVF and Infertility Expert
Asafoetida (Hing) – It is a distinctive spice with a pungent smell. It is most commonly found in powdered form. By enhancing hormonal activity and boosting energy and blood flow, it acts like a sexual stimulant and helps in bringing down symptoms of impotence or infertility in both men and women.
Cardamom (Elaichi) – It has a sweet, lemony, eucalyptus like flavour. It is available in various forms like powder, dried pods or loose seeds. It boosts the sexual drive in males and females so is helpful in curbing impotency.
Red chili powder – It is a red colored, finely ground powder. It is extremely spicy as it is made from the dried seeds of red chilies. It increases the blood flow in the body and stimulates endorphin production which further helps in relieving stress which is helpful in infertility.
Cinnamon (Dalchini) – It is a sweet-tasting spice with a warm and woody aroma. It helps in maintaining proper ovarian functioning and greatly reduces insulin resistance in women with PCOS. It is also useful for women experiencing heavy menstrual bleeding associated with endometriosis, uterine fibroids, adenomyosis and primary menorrhagia. Coriander (dhania leaves/seeds – The fresh leaves and the dried seeds of dhania are
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Dhania is also an antioxidant that improves sperm quality commonly used in cooking to give a fresh aroma. Apart from that, it stimulates the endocrine gland that maintains hormonal balance promoting regular periods. It is also an antioxidant that improves the sperm quality.
Cumin (Jeera) – It has a nutty aroma and is slightly bitter in taste. It works as an antioxidant which improves sperm count, morphology and motility, and prevents conditions like erectile dysfunction and premature ejaculation. It also regulates the menses (menstral cycle) in females.
Fennel (Saunf) – It has a sweet and aniseed flavour. It has a mild estrogenic effect and also acts like the female sex hormone estrogen.
Fenugreek (Kasuri Methi) – It has a strong, sweet aroma and adds strong curry-like taste to the food. Fenugreek is one of the main ingredients in curry powders. It contains phytoestrogenscompounds that act like the hormone estrogen which regulates menses. It is also considered an aphrodisiac. There is limited research about the effects of fenugreek on fertility.
Garlic
(Lehsun)
It has a powerful, pungent or hot flavour when raw which mellows down when it is cooked. Garlic increases circulation of blood to the uterus and acts like antiinflammatory and antioxidant, and improves ovulation. –
Ginger (Adrak) – It has a
Saffron (Zaffran) - It is
sweet aroma and a hot and pungent taste. It is anti-inflammatory, acts as a pain reliever and improves blood circulation to the reproductive organs. It also improves the motility of sperms.
the most expensive spice of all. It has a distinctively pungent, honeylike flavour and aroma. It is an antioxidant with a positive effect on sperm morphology and motility in infertile men.
Mint (Pudina) – Indian mint has a strong flavour, which is pleasantly pungent and refreshing at the same time. It has a negative effect on fertility as it causes suppression of androgen which leads to decreased sperm count and erectile dysfunctions.
Mustard seeds (Rai) – In Indian cooking, brown mustard seeds are used more commonly but black seeds contain a higher proportion of the mustard oil and has the strongest flavour. It has phytonutrients and omega 3 fatty acids which help regulate hormones.
Nutmeg (Jaiphal) – It is the seed of the evergreen tree and it adds sweet and savoury flavour to the dishes. It has potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant action and works as a natural aphrodisiac that imitates the effect of the hormone serotonin, which causes sexual arousal and also provides a relaxing effect to the body.
Oregano (Ajwain) – It has a strong, pungent odour and helps in enhancing the sexual activity, libido and energy level among couples because of its natural aphrodisiac property. It also improves sperm quality and count and helps in problems like premature ejaculation. Oregano relieves menstrual pain and treats menstrual disorders in females.
Pepper (Kali Mirch) – It has a pungent, woody aroma and a hot, biting taste. It increases testosterone (male sex hormone) levels which improves the sperm count. It is a potent antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress and improves fertility.
Tamarind (Imli) – It is the sticky, dried, brown pod of the evergreen tree. It has a sour taste and a very tart, citric flavour. It has high levels of vitamin C with antioxidant effects which improves the fertility in both males and females. Turmeric (Haldi) - It has a bright yellow colour with a pungent, warm and earthy aroma and taste. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulatory properties. It has proven estrogenic activity that regulates the menses. It prevents the growth of cells in uterine fibroids, endometriosis and ovarian cysts along with preventing their proliferation.
Indian spices not only add the best taste to food but also they have medicinal uses for boosting the fertility
Inspiring
Mushrooming lives in Team FnB BUZZ
Uttarakhand
Divya Rawat did her Post Graduation in Social Work and worked for an NGO for 2.5 years before foraying into the field of entrepreneurship with mushroom cultivation.
Soumya Foods became one stop for villagers and youth for all their needs pertaining to mushroom farming, be it spawn, guidance or any other assistance. The production and spawn lab is located at Mothrowala Village in Dehradun, Uttarakhand
P Divya Rawat
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eople in Uttarakhand were leaving their villages looking for jobs in cities due to no fixed source of income! The problem of unemployment had to be solved using the strength that lies in farming. However, the traditional farming of paddy and vegetables was not lucrative enough to drive them back to the villages by promising a bright future. Looking for a solution,
I visited Dehradun wholesale mandi and found that the mushrooms were priced dearly in comparison to all the other vegetables. It was being sold at ` 200 per kg and yearly price variations were told to be between ` 200 to ` 400. “I hit the jackpot and started working on the same,” shares Divya Rawat, Founder, Soumya Foods. “Further as mushroom is grown indoors, it safeguards the crop from
Divya’s efforts have not only received laurels but her work has been covered by some of the most eminent Travel channels natural calamities and wild animals which had been a constant threat to Uttarakhand farmers,” she adds. Ms Rawat then took training in mushroom farming from ICARDirectorate of Mushroom Research, Solan and started her own mushroom cultivation unit. When asked about capital investment, she responds, “While I was growing mushroom, I found it is really interesting but expensive due to high investment needed to set up the infrastructure. So, I made a few changes and made the entire process cost effective by replacing aluminium or steel racks with bamboo racks for vertical mushroom cultivation and nylon ropes for growing mushroom for hanging method. It brought down the capital investment cost to ` 40-50 thousand which was earlier more than ` 2 lakh.” Another change she introduced was growing three different mushroom varieties in accordance with the seasons and natural climatic conditions of Uttarakhand. “It was done so to take advantage of temperature from the environment. It eliminated the use of air conditioners, humidifiers or temperature controllers. We grow milky mushrooms in summer as it requires 30-40 degree Celsius temperature; post summer, when the temperature is moderate, we grow oyster mushrooms and in winter, button mushrooms are grown,” she elaborates.
Initially in 2013, when Ms Rawat started growing mushrooms, she sourced the spawn from Delhi but later, as her popularity grew and other farmers started associating with her, she started her own laboratory to produce and supply spawns. The spawns are also developed in the natural conditions following the season and climate change. Farmers from across the country are now buying spawns from Soumya Foods. “We produce 12 tonnes of spawns every month. The spawns are packed in one kg packs and sold to buyers in any quantity they ask for because every farmer is important to us. It is sold at ` 100/kg,” she says. Spawns are sold exclusively to the farmers but to create more demand for mushrooms, it is important that our end consumer become more and more inclined to the taste of mushrooms. Thereby, Ms Rawat continues to grow and sell mushrooms and plans to increase the daily production to 1-1.5 tonnes a day. Mushrooms at Soumya Foods were sold earlier to wholesale buyers but now they prefer to sell directly to B2B and B2C buyers. “The price is kept reasonable at ` 200-250/kg in retail; earlier for wholesalers it was ` 150-200/kg. Soon, we will establish our own retail outlet too. We have the responsibility of increasing the demand for mushrooms to assist our
Farmers from across the country are buying spawns from Soumya Foods associate farmers so we also conduct many awareness programs. Large quantity of mushrooms is sold at these programs as well,” she adds. Speaking about low shelf life of mushrooms, Ms Rawat says, “Button mushroom has a shelf life of 24 hours, oyster has 48 hours and milky stays fine for 7-8 days. If farmers are not able to sell their mushroom produce due to some reason then they should sun-dry the mushrooms. It is the best way to make the most of the untimely sales because dried mushrooms are also sold at high prices. The shelf life of dried mushrooms is 6-8 months.” Finally, she says, “Mushroom farming has brought enormous change in my village and it is spreading. Reverse migration is happening but it will take its own time to be visible largely. At the moment, I am focused on providing the right technical and implementation guidance to the farmers. Our ultimate destination is to have a directorate of mushroom here and make Uttarakhand a mushroom capital of India.” October 2017
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state wise
The Salar Jung’s
Kitchen Secrets
The Salar Jung family was a noble family of the erstwhile Hyderabad state, India during the time of the Nizams. They are not only credited with safeguarding rare artefacts but also bear a robust legacy of culinary traditions. For a long time, their culinary practices remained hidden, thus lending a mystery to the divine taste of their cooking. But the secret is now out
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T
he diversity of India is aptly presented in its food. As I touch down at the Hyderabad airport to discover this culinary diversity, I finish up the last dredges of the Hyderabadi biryani that my flight attendant served me. But I am not going to Hyderabad in search of the famous haleem or biryani; instead I am in search of a royal kitchen which has been protecting its secrets for long. The Salar Jung family has been one of the noble families under the reign of the Nizam of Hyderabad from the early 18th century, many of them having served as Grand Wazirs of the Nizam. The person responsible for bringing the hidden secrets of their kitchen to the fore is Kunwar Rani Kulsum, niece of Nawab Yusuf Ali Khan Salar Jung III. Not only did she establish the famous Salar Jung museum, she also took their cuisine to new heights by building a new Bawaarchikhaana (kitchen) where many experiments on food took place. Kunwar Rani is now a consultant for the ITC Hotels and recently took part in the Royal Kitchens festival at ITC Maurya that showcased food from seven erstwhile princely states of preIndependence India. I asked Rani about how the Salar Jung family has successfully kept their recipes a secret. It has essentially been due to two factors. The first of the reasons being that the recipes were never revealed to the
Dr Sudipto De The writer is a lover of cuisines from the far east to the western world. He is known as the ‘Hungry Surgical Resident’ amongst his peers. A surgeon in training and a foodie in full.
The Salar Jung family has been one of the noble families under the reign of the Nizam October 2017
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daughters in the family but only to the daughter-in-laws; as daughters were supposed to be married out of the family, they weren’t taught the recipes. But the newlyweds who became a part of the family were given a crash course in the recipes. Rani Kulsum, on the other hand, got the recipes of her illustrious ancestors from her maternal grandmother. As she was married off into a family from Lucknow, the Awadhi food did not impress her and she started to crave for food from her home. This is when her grandmother taught her more than a hundred recipes. “But what about the bawaarchis or the chefs?� I ask. Well, there was a very simple solution to that. The cooks had been divided as per the jobs: one for grinding up the spices, the other for marinating it. This way, none of them ever knew the full recipes which stayed with the ladies of the house. The Begum actually had a much more hands-on approach and actually supervised through all of the cooking process. Another reason that makes this royal cuisine stand out from the others is the ingrained medical qualities it has. It is said that the Begums of the family used to sit with the Hakeems(doctors) when the food was cooked and used to discuss the medicinal qualities of the ingredients and incorporate them. The food also took on the essence from the seasons, the chilly winter mornings being time for hearty thick Nahari. The overnight cooking of the meat leaches the marrow into the gravy making it thick, fatty and perfect to warm you up. As the families tried to outdo each other in the way food was served, experiments in that area were truly astounding. The biryani was used to be served in massive Mushaaps with
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The biryani meal was used to be served in massive Mushaaps
Tamatar paneer
live pigeons inside it. The senior-most people at the table used to dig into the fragrant biryani and the pigeons would fly out leaving the guests amazed. Although, the Western world may be waking up to the concept of an edible spoon now, the Nawabs were utilising this to surprise their guests from nearly a century. The methods helped establish the culinary traditions of the Nawaabi Gharanas. The dishes from the royal family of Salar Jung not only have royalty ingrained in their names but they have quite a melange of flavours too. The Gosht Khada Masala will enthral you with a hit of sour and spice over some soft, succulent meat. Fish is one protein that I have consumed many a times but the essence of Zaffran (saffron) adds a totally new layer of flavours to the dish. But if you think that the Nawabi cuisine is
solely dedicated to non-vegetarians, you are sorely mistaken. The paneer timatari and arbi kali mirch hold forth in the vegetarian section of the cuisine. But, no meal is complete without its desserts. The luscious bharwan pao (dry fruit stuffed fresh bread twice baked with sooji sheera) and khopre ki lauz (sweet made
out of tender coconut) complete the line-up. Although, I had gone out in search of a royal cuisine that is making its foray into restaurant style dining, what I came back with was a lesson in history, tehzeeb and a crash course on how to host guests.
The Paneer TAmatari and arbi kali mirch hold forth in the vegetarian section
Left: Laddu the Salar Jung way and below: Gosth
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check-in
Nature’s sacred bastion
Mangar
The sight of The Lalit Mangar, is a beauty to behold. Not only it has a pristine decor but it is also filled with rustic essence that connects you with Nature instantly
Team FnB BUZZ
T
he Lalit Mangar is an experiential hotel situated at Mangar Bani near Faridabad. It’s a place that enables you to listen to your heart’s calling and helps you indulge in myriad of activities you’ve always wanted to do but never got the opportunity. Star gazing, sun bathing or feeding a fawn... yes, that too! The Lalit Mangar gives you room for indulgence. For the outdoorsy souls, activities like rock climbing – under expert guidance, cycling and well planned picnics amidst the valley are available. Sun bathe for hours or head to their natural therapies at Rejuve – The Spa.
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Hallmarks The Lalit Mangar offers 34 opulent rooms, all with stupendous views of the valley; a heady mix of the distinctive luxury and comfort are a signature of The Lalit Hotels. Palatial, yet equipped with all contemporary amenities and services, your private room at The Lalit Mangar is an idyllic weekend refuge. While enjoying the treasures of nature, you can savour gourmet dining at their acclaimed 24X7 restaurant. The enthralling view follows you beyond the room as the alfresco dining space brings with it an uninterrupted panorama of the forest as you enjoy
our unique fine dining experiences. Add to it, your favourite tipple from their well-stocked bar! You can also indulge in strenuous activities such as rock climbing and cycling. Inhale fresh air as you paddle through the valley or work those muscles in rock climbing under expert guidance. The physical work will not only whet your appetite but it will also lend perspective to your life’s experiences. To get a cultural dose, hop down to the local village and observe Indian rustic life at its best! Anchor the banal desires and you could actually
the Lalit Mangar has to offer a sublime experience experience what it is to live life from the edge. Milk a cow or eat food cooked on a chulha. Enjoy a night listening to the folklore along with some music and dance; it’s surely going to go down the memory lane.
About the Architecture Not only the experience, but the unique architecture of The Lalit Manfar is another eye-catching detail of the hotel. The site is a narrow 3.78 acre extremely rocky strip of land with a natural gradient of 11m, further dropping into a 30m deep ravine with a rain fed stream running there. Keeping the raw and arid nature of the surroundings, the hotel took a conscious call of minimising intervention by using the natural soil and rock, as available on site, as the primary material of construction.
Not only is the hospitality but also the architecture of the property is unique
This led the team at Lalit Mangar to explore rammed earth as the primary mode of construction upon analysing the sustainability of the soil strata and
crushed rock as present. Keeping the clear need for sustainable design, to achieve maximum thermal efficiency, the structure was conceived as an insulated rammed earth building, where not only the roofs, but all walls were insulated completely with minimal thermal bridges. The hotel has been designed as a continuously cascading village street, working as per the natural contours of the site, moving from courtyard to courtyard in an informal organic manner. All services were integrated into the system so that the wall becomes the final finished surface, both internal and external. The roofs were developed as traditional jack arches, cast in Ferro cement with a 1� shell thickness so as to make it easy to lift and rest on the rammed walls, further finished with traditional waterproofing systems and techniques. Spending time to seep in the experiences that The Lalit Mangar has to offer is a sublime experience. Not only the hospitality, but also the feeling of being so innately in touch with the roots of our culture is the defining element of the stay over there. October 2017
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celeb talk
Culinary Heritage of
the Nawabs
- A Journey with Meera & Muzaffar Ali
In a country obsessed with flavours, the Nawabi style cooking and flavours provide the quintessential madness over nawabi food. Muzaffar Ali has more to add to it
H
Aarti Kapur Singh The writer has been writing on cinema and lifestyle for more than a decade. Her interest in cinema is also why she is pursuing a doctorate on the subject. An ardent foodie, she feels travelling and eating are the best stress-busters.
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eritage comes in many forms; some associate it with tangible things, some with emotions and cultural ethos. In India, royalty has always been associated with being the custodians of a sizeable chunk of heritage. The royalty had the means to indulge in preserving of heritage and even taking these practices to newer heights.
facets of any nobility is perhaps its food and wine. India has had its fair share of princes and maharajas, who were renowned pleasure-seekers and aesthetes. Their kingdoms don’t exist anymore but in many cases, vestiges of their culinary customs have been respectfully preserved by their descendants. One such example is of Muzaffar Ali.
It wouldn’t entirely be an exaggeration to compare the nawabi culinary traditions to Ralph Waldo Emerson’s quote: “Let the stoics say what they please, we do not eat for the good of living but because the meat is savoury and the appetite is keen.”
“After the maharajas, the true connoisseurs of luxury were the nawabs. They were known for their extravagant cuisines — where bawarchis (cooks) created slowcooked dishes like pasanda and murgh musallam, and desserts like the halwae-sheer,” asserts Muzaffar Ali, the erstwhile Raja of Kotwara, who is also a filmmaker, poet, aesthete and artist.
Court cuisine amongst the royals has been an obsession and rulers prided themselves over the numbers of cooks they had in their kitchens. Often a single cook was paid a fortune to cook just one dish every day. And once a king liked a dish then his kitchen brigade got to work for creating fancier versions of that dish. Apparently, there were 300 different types of halwas made in the kitchen of the nawab of Rampur. One
of
the
most
distinguishing
Historically Speaking “The history, lifestyle and cuisine of the nawabs are not well-documented, unlike our maharajas. After the Nawab of Awadh was unceremoniously deposed in 1856 (which precipitated the First War of Independence), they got a raw deal. The families were dispossessed and since many opposed the British rule, they refused to learn the new ways and slipped into oblivion,” says Muzaffar.
Muzaffar Ali October 2017
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The point of a great cuisine is to create dishes that will set the standard, will change the rules and will influence the way we eat in the days to come. Much of the medieval cuisine seemed to be designed only to impress. “It is important for people to know that the cuisine of the Mughals, which came from Central Asia, was transformed into Indian food by court cooks. Babar never really saw himself as an Indian and never got into Indian food and missed the fruits and fowl of Samarkand. Babar’s son Humayun brought koftas to India and acted as a sort of pulao ambassador taking our basmati rice to Iran while bringing back their recipes. It was only under Akbar, Humayun’s son, that an Indian court cuisine developed, making extensive use of the spices that India was famous for,” informs the passionate revivalist, Muzaffar Ali. “The Mughals, who had come to India with the bland food of their homeland, had eventually learnt how to use spices and now under the Nizams, the flavours became complex and more assertive. Other nawabs abandoned Mughal pretensions and became one with their people. The ones from Saurashtra are often largely vegetarian and eat the local dal and bajra rotla. The Southern nawabs are South Indians in all their habits,” he adds. Recalling his childhood epicurean memories, Muzaffar Ali says, “My mother came from the royal family of Moradabad. When she got married into Kotwara, she added her own culinary traditions to those prevalent there. And I think this happened in most Nawabi households – food got flavoured by varied influences.” Talking with a fair amount of pride about his homestead, Muzaffar Ali waxes eloquent about his family’s
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Muzaffar Ali with his engaging book
“Much of medieval cuisine seemed designed only to impress”
culinary traditions in Kotwara House and Anhalwara Palace in Uttar Pradesh’s Lakhimpur district. “My father Raja Sajid Husain was an MLA from this constituency. He possessed an eclectic taste for food. Kotwara and Lucknawi cuisines were obviously his favourites but having been raised in England and later in Scotland, he was also attracted to the English way
couldn’t contain himself on seeing the nawab dig into the delicacies at the table. Trying hard not to break away from Lucknowi etiquette, the editor refused to eat a single morsel from dawn to dusk, only to be mistaken for a thief when he hungrily crept into the kitchen later that night.
Top: Muzaffar Ali, his wife Meera and their daughter Sama, above: The Maashra tent; and top (right): Muzaffar Ali with his wife, Meera
“Nothing is considered too extravagant when it comes to nawabi food” of life. In his meals, he would attempt to infuse the best of both worlds. Food was always served in courses starting with his favourite almond soup followed by galavat ke kebab, served with paper thin rumali roti or murghmussalam or pasanda. Grilled fish topped with large amounts of melted butter or a Chicken a la Kiev and lamb ribs were served next. Amongst desserts, he preferred shahi tukda and rasaval, a sugarcane juice and ricebased treat,” he says.
The walls of Anhalwara Palace in the idyllic Kotwara – a village in the Lakhimpur Kheri district of Uttar Pradesh – have lived through a thousand stories. The most amusing, however, tend to be those associated with food. Even today, the family cracks up at the memory of an episode that occurred in their royal kitchen in the spring of 1952. An Urdu daily editor, who had travelled all the way to interview Syed Sajid Husain – the then Raja of Kotwara –
Ali and his family are now enthusiastic ambassadors of the family’s past. They offer a taste of their royal dining experience to visitors at Kotwara House on appointment. Guests can also check into Anhalwara Palace, which functions as a heritage hotel. In keeping with the nawabi tradition, Meera and Muzaffar, who reside in Delhi, have curated a royal tented dining experience in the gardens of their own home. “It was the desire to share what is a way of life for us that made us create this space.”
An Amalgamation of Tehzeeb and Zaika Nothing is considered too extravagant when it comes to nawabi food – gold and silver varq foil is believed to aid digestion; saffron and khus khus (poppy seeds) season most meals; and only the finest cuts of meat make October 2017
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culinary experience called Maashra (a private Avadhi dining experience within their home estate in Gurgaon), where patrons get to savour Nawabi flavours and hospitality.
it to the table. Dishes are cooked languorously, sometimes for days – the dum (where food is cooked for hours over low heat in closed earthen pots) and smoking dishes (where a piece of burning coal is placed within the dish to flavour the food from inside out) remain their techniques of choice. “During the glory days, kitchens were packed with hundreds of bawarchis, sometimes each specialising in just one dish. Kitchens were considered laboratories and the chefs artists. They were encouraged to experiment, innovate and create. And while today preserving the heritage is more on the agenda, the nawabs of yore were patrons of food, supporting an entire food industry to help the cuisine evolve,” says Muzaffar. Muzaffar Ali, along with his architectturned-luxury garment designerturned author wife, Meera, started a
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Muzaffar Ali is not only prolific but also one of the most creative film-makers in India
“Meera, started a culinary experience called Maashra (a private Avadhi dining experience)...”
“There’s a certain etiquette that embraces all nawabi culture. It’s not so much about the commonality of ingredients or dishes but the way the food is prepared and served and the way we host our guests – that’s the true spirit of nawabi cuisine. And for these families, it’s comforting if you understand that,” says Meera who has recently put together a mammoth book, ‘Dining With The Nawabs’, a compilation of the culinary traditions of ten Nawabi families —Arcot, Bhopal, Chhatari, Hyderabad (Asman Jahi Paigah), Kamadhia-Surat, Kotwara, Rampur, Zainabad in India and Bahawalpur and Khairpur in presentday Pakistan. “There was serious research that went into writing each of their histories – stretching from a couple of hundred years to a thousand – in an effort to contextualize the cuisine in the culture,” says Meera. Being part of this culture for over two decades gave Meera access to nawabi homes, kitchens and the well-guarded recipes that have been passed down the generations. Her book takes on a narrative that dives deep into luxurious nawabi food, tracking the legends, anecdotes and antiquities that form the core of their heritage – from the chef of the Nawab of Avadh who would carve out pista kernels and cut almonds to resemble grains of rice and then make a special khichri for his master to the gloriously decadent
Wajid Ali Shah, who was proud of a court dish called Pulao Anardana. Half the rice in the pulao was made to look like shining white pearls, while the other half looked like tiny red rubies. Then of course, there are the stories that have all the makings of legends – the single varqi paratha cooked with 5kg of ghee for a nawab who shall remain nameless; the jild gosht (mutton cooked in goatskin) of Zainabad; the dal bhaat khatta epitomizing Mughal influence on a Kathiawadi dish; Khairpur’s badam roti, made only of almonds, caster sugar and ghee; the raw mango navratan ki chutney that’s a Chhatari speciality; Arcot’s kund, a rice-milk-almond halwa dessert that needs five pairs of hands; the cream-centred marghoba mango of Hyderabad and so much more. Despite the nawabs of India losing their titular legacies, their tables laden with succulent meats, their food flavoured with freshly ground spices and their untranslatable coda of tehzeeb remain their last-standing bastions of power, wealth and heritage. Muzaffar Ali, was then asked to explain the concept behind Maashra (which roughly translates to ‘society’). “A Lucknawi takes great pride in his cuisine and in the art of serving it. The art of creating the perfect menu is equally important. Which dish has to accompany which kind of bread is of prime importance. Like a shami kabab tastes best with sheermaal, but a seekh tastes best with a rumali roti,” she says. , “The condiments are also, always freshly ground. They never come out of readymade packets,” she adds. In Kotwara, it was Princess Selma Rauf Sultan, the first wife of Raja Sajid Husain, who revamped the dining
experience. “Crested crockery was specially ordered from China and gold-etched glasses from England. Princess Selma brought her own retinue of staff from Beirut, including a French chef who often prepared her meals,” Meera writes in the book.
Both Muzaffar Ali and his wife, Meera, have an innate sense of nawabi taste and fashion
“While researching for my book, I realised that nawabs, at least the more prominent among them who didn’t waste away in penury and whose memories and manners have been kept alive by their descendants, didn’t eat very differently from their better-off subjects – or today’s upper middle-class – but the aura October 2017
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recipe
Dumpukht (slow cooked mutton) From kitchens of Kotwara
Ingredients (Serves 8)
around them and the expanse of their legendary hospitality did make their dining tables special,” says Meera. This tehzeeb is the true spirit of Nawabi cuisine – not just the flavoursome spices, exotic ingredients or painstaking techniques – but beyond the tangibles. In a country obsessed with its place in the world and the future, Nawabs carry a peculiar, bittersweet resonance. As a class, they are irrelevant; as a power they’re negligible; and yet their all - pervasive influence persists in the way large sections of India eat and drink.
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• 1 kg mutton, cut into mediumsized pieces, washed • 1/2 cup vegetable oil • 1 tbsp rose water • 4 1/2 cups yoghurt • 1/2 nutmeg • 1” piece mace • 2 black cardamoms • 4 green cardamoms • 3 cloves • 1 1/2” cinnamon stick • 2 bay leaf • 1/2 tsp cumin powder • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder • Salt to taste • 3 cashew nuts, finely ground • 4 large onions, sliced
Method • Heat the oil in a large cooking pan; fry the meat. Add the rose water and 4 cups yoghurt; continue to fry.
• In a clean white muslin cloth, place roughly ground nutmeg, mace, black and green cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaf, cumin powder and red chilli powder and tie with a thread. Add this spice muslin bag to the mutton along with salt and keep frying. • Heat some oil in a pan; add the ground cashew nuts and onions; fry till brown. Remove and grind to a paste with 1/2 cup yoghurt in a blender. Add this to the mutton and cook on very low heat. It may be advisable to place a tawa under the cooking pan. The process may take about 45-60 minutes. • In the end, squeeze the juice out of the muslin bag into the dumpukht and then discard the bag. • Serve with hot chapatis.
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Mortar and pestle
the ancient kitchen tool that still survives Heavy and antic looking. They are wonderful pieces that transform the taste of the food we cook. Its not just taste but the legacy of the taste that makes mortars and pestles so substantial to kitchens
I
Sangeeta Khanna The writer is a renonwed nutrition consultant and trainer.
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f you walk around old wooden homes in the hills of Uttarakhand, you will come across smooth bedrocks in front of many houses, the houses strategically built on stable bedrocks that serve as their front yard as well. The front yard on a mountain home is always a buzzing place during the sunny days as everyone wants to be in the sun while going about their daily chores. If you enquire closely, you will find a smooth bowl shaped depression somewhere in this front yard bedrock that is used for pounding grains and lentils, to break walnuts and wild hazelnuts, and of course to make quick chutney with freshly plucked herbs and lemon rind, using a smooth round stone as the pestle. This is the most primitive mortar and pestle, found in many places across the world. Mortar and pestle would possibly be the most ancient kitchen tools as
well after the advent of agriculture, the bedrock mortar and pestle even preceding agriculture as humans foraged for food before that. Every geographical region has different produce and different set of raw materials so the shape and size of such basic tools vary according to what is going to be processed in them and the material used depends upon what kind of craftsmanship has developed in those areas. Finding a terracotta mortar and pestle at a potter’s workshop in Pokhran, Rajasthan was one of the high points in my food related travel finds. Beautifully made into the shape of boat, carved at the edges and smooth in its belly, the mortar has a sturdy body while the smooth pestle fits snugly into your palm when you grind some mustard or peppercorn to make a salad dressing.
Image by Sangeeta Khanna October 2017
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Another terracotta mortar and pestle comes from a friend Mrs Gill whose pind (village) in Punjab has a tradition of making terracotta mortars, heavily set up with pebbles at the base to make it stronger and to assist heavy pounding and grinding. We had witnessed many lip smacking chutneys made lovingly by Mr Gill who would sit down on a small Manji and hold the mortar with his feet, pounding insane amounts of green chutney using a large pestle made of neem wood. When they got transferred, the mortar and pestle was left into my custody seeing my interest in all things traditional. It has been more than a decade now and many more chutneys and pickles, including my grandmother’s Harey lehsun ka lehsunsagga, have been made using this piece of terracotta. The grey sandstone mortar from the hills must have been for those who didn’t have a smooth bedrock in front of their home. Chutneys pounded slowly in these stone tools have no match and even the purist pesto makers would agree to the power of mortar and pestle that results in the right balance of creaminess and coarseness in a well-made basil pesto. The best salsas and guacamole are made in Molcajete, a Mexican mortar and pestle made of vesicular basalt. The textural richness of the salsa with chunky bits and creamy base comes with skilful pounding of ingredients that no machine can replicate. The modern day electric blenders just can’t achieve the same result as the cutting action of the blades is very different from the thumping and friction between the mortar and pestle that results in the best flavours and textures. Even for the idli and dosa batters, the purists suggest that the grinding
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action between the stone mortar and pestle surface results in a better texture of idli and dosa and it also helps the batter to ferment better. The stone mortar and pestle is so revered that we would find the modern kitchens in Tamilnadu, Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh now equipped with electric mortar and pestles made of stone contained in a sturdy steel cylinder. The older traditional models of those stone grinders or Atukkal, as they are called, can be seen abandoned in the streets sometimes. We actually found them in every street when walking around a village in Kodaikanal district. The flat stone mortar is a common household tool known as silbatta in UP and MP, and can be made of either sandstone or granite. The pestle is
One of the best tastes are achieved with fresh ground spices
The best salsas and guacamole are made in Molcajete, a Mexican mortar and pestle made of vesicular basalt
made of the same stone and there was a time when the stone cutters used to roam around the streets with a nail and hammer asking if someone wants to get the silbatta hammered. They would sit down with their tools, wear glasses similar to swimming goggles and start hammering the flat stone mortar making rangoli like designs on the top triangular part and then straight lines almost like calligraphy in the middle. The stone pestle would also be hammered similarly and then the silbatta would be used to grind vegetable peels once to remove the sandy residues. Many households used to get their silbatta hammered regularly because silbatta masala was an integral part of everyday curries.
Many kitchen tools made of wood can be seen in the markets of Haridwar and other places of religious importance where tourists seem to shop for such household items. Made in Saharanpur, a small town in western UP, the wooden Imam Dasta is a thing of beauty, often used as a decorative piece in homes.
that sets these condiments apart from other chutneys made with the same ingredients. The small mortar and pestle used for crushing Ayurvedic medicines is called kharal and can be made of black granite or white marble, usually boat shaped to enable easy pouring of the medicine into a spoon or bottle.
The Bengali posto bora (shallow fried poppy seeds cutlets) depends on the texture of poppy seeds ground slowly on a sheel nora, the flat stone mortar and cylindrical stone pestle. Chutney pounded on a silbatta is still considered the perfect thing and there is a specific chutney like condiment called as kuchla, meaning crushed, made in a deep cylindrical stone mortar and wooden pestle known as okhli. Its iron counterpart is called Imam Dasta which is mostly used to pound dry spices. Someone once gifted me a brass Imam Dasta from Pune which is a beautiful piece of art.
The Maharashtrian hirvi mirchi na thecha, Rajasthani mirchi ka kutta, Kashmiri mujj chetin and many more chutneys rely upon the use of such Imam Dastas in the kitchen and it is the pounded course texture
Images by Sangeeta Khanna
The same cylindrical mortar and pestle is called Khal Moosal in Bihar and Jharkhand and is used for the same purposes.
Mortars yields better results for taste with spices October 2017
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Silbatte ka kabab is still a delicacy in some high end restaurants trying to bring those forgotten flavours A variety of wooden mortars and pestles come from North eastern India ranging from the classic shape of okhli to a wider bowl made for different purposes. Bijay Thapa, a baker having roots in Nepal and who has lived in many places, says that such wooden mortars and pestles are held between the knees and all sorts of spice rubs, chilies, ginger, garlic, etc are crushed while sitting around the kitchen fire. Everyone contributes to cooking in such traditional kitchens and the family bonding during such shared cooking is precious. They make all sorts of chutneys, including smoked brinjal or tree tomato chutney. Some of the salads are also macerated using the wide bowl mortars and pestles. It is good to see that the artisans have started making smaller decorative pieces of such mortars and pestles. Even in the age of the swankiest kitchen appliances, we feel like having some of these traditional tools as we still value the traditional taste of the foods made in them. Silbatte ka kabab is still a delicacy in some high end restaurants trying to bring those forgotten flavours to the modern day table. The meat mince when pounded on silbatta has a smooth yet firm texture that can’t be created using steel cutting technique used in the modern day food processors.
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Images by Sangeeta Khanna October 2017
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food trail
India’s diversity
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on a platter... thalis of India Thalis are a way of culinary life in India; they represent our culture and speaks volume about our historical culinary practices and knowledge. Till date, thalis are the way we Indians have our platter of food and for the love of our food, it will remain so for times to come
Ashish Chopra The writer is the Senior Consulting Editor of Food and Beverage Buzz Magazine. October 2017
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I
ndia’s diversity on a platter – that’s a thali for you. The varied notes of culture, cuisine and community, inimical to each region, can be seen reflected in the thalis put together in households across the country. Whether it is the paruppu, kozhambu, rasam and pachadi, which form an integral part of the Chettinad food platter or the khar, aloo pitika, maasor tenga, murgi jhul and bhaath that are the signature dishes of an Axomiya thali, each of these platters present a snapshot of the region’s rich biodiversity and seasonal produce. Even though urban Indian has woken up to the idea of “eat local” only in the
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past couple of years, our traditional repast, as is evident from the thalis, has always followed this thumb rule. The composition of the thali changes with each passing season, with wild edibles such as aalu and terro being added during the monsoon, to the platter whipped up in Christian Goan homes or the ubiquitous sarson ka saag making an appearance in a Punjabi meal during winters. Having a thali is like embarking on a journey of discovery through a region’s social and physical topography as well. For instance, a tribal platter from the outskirts of Mumbai would make use of ingredients such as moringa and
Having a thali is like embarking on a journey of discovery through a region’s social and physical topography
Kharcho soup of beef
Within each region too, the composition of the thali changes according to the landscape moras, which grow in the farms and mangrove swamps nearby. The stark desert landscape of Rajasthan, on the other hand, throws up thorny shrubs and bushes as condiments, as can be seen by the presence of ker sangri in the meal. Within each region too, the composition of the thali changes according to the landscape. So, in Rajasthan, if you were to move from the desert to lush Shekhawati, which was once abundant in game, you would find meat and game dishes an integral part of the meal. It’s not just in the seasonality and use of local produce that the thalis have been way ahead of global trends, but also in the presence of millets. Myriad number of dishes – dals, flatbreads, salads – made with millets like gahat, buransh and samma have always had a starring role. For those who seek emotional and physical fitness, these platters present the perfect balance providing all the nutrients that are needed to nourish the body and soul. Take the Gujarati thali for instance, which with preparations like handvo – made with bottle gourd, carrots, rice and lentils, buttermilk, dal khichdi, farsaan and undhiyo featuring seasonal veggies, offers a mix of macro and micro nutrients. Authors Neha Prasada and Ashima Narain write about the ancient Indian food philosophy of 'we become what Top to bottom: Undhiyu, Manga Pachadi and Puruppu Thogayal October 2017
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The right food needs to be eaten to keep doshas in balance and to keep good health we eat' in their book, Dining with the Maharajas. “Ayurveda classifies food into rasa, veerya and prabhava. The rasas are divided into sweet, salty, sour, bitter, pungent and astringent. Further these food items are divided into having hot or cold veerya. This ancient science states that the human body is made of three doshas or biological humours, which are vata, pita and kapha. The right food needs to be eaten to keep these doshas in balance and to maintain good health,”
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they write. And for centuries, the thalis have been plated keeping these ancient tenets in mind – a practice that continues in households across the country even today. There is a fascinating story about the history of the thali. It is believed by many that plating is a temple invention – especially the kind seen in the Jagannath Temple of Puri in Odisha. “Another school of thought credits the arrangement to affluence, since
(Above): A typical Gujarati thali; (opposite page): The Assamese platter
the thali holds an endless fascination as its composition presents a fascinating tapestry of political and professional hierarchies the rich could actually afford to have more than three dishes. But the view that is given much credence is that Ayurveda helped develop the concept of plating and the food pyramid. For culinary historians like me and many others who are passionate about food history, researching and documenting the thali holds an endless fascination as the composition of the same presents a fascinating tapestry of political and professional hierarchies of each historical period. Hakims and vaids put together different meal plans for the royals and soldiers to suit their energy needs; while the commoners, who had no such luxuries, were left to find ingredients that were best suited to their pockets. And then there were the royal feasts, in which platters were crammed with indulgences to suit the
celebratory mood, with the cooks trying to outdo one another in innovation. One such example can be found in KT Achaya’s seminal book, Indian Food: A Historical Companion. He talks about a feast for kings, as described in Kannada verse by Terekanambi Bommarasa, written around 1485. “The women served an unfried brinjal baji, which contained coconut shreds, curry leaves and cardamom, mixed well and flavoured with citrus juice and a little camphor… The tamarind side-dish and the pickle were consumed with great relish; the papads were broken into pieces and the pacchadi eaten with delight. The meal was laid on broad banana leaves spread on the floor and the kingly lords of the earth ate slowly until their appetites were satiated,” states the description. October 2017
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Which brings us to the idea of plating of the thali; it’s not just the food that is served onto the platter but what it is served on differs from region to region. Traditionally one has seen thalis being crafted out of copper and kansa, with the metal adding its own properties to the food. Banana leaves have served as a popular thaal, especially in temples and traditional middle-class households. Colleen Taylor Sen talks about this in her book, Feasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India. She mentions the traditional Indian belief that the materials in which food is prepared and served affect its properties. “Silver and gold are considered the best materials, since they are non-reactive and ‘pure’... even today, copper, considered a pure metal, is used to make thalis, plated with tin to negate the effects of the acid,” she writes.
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Banana leaves have served as a popular thaal, especially in temples and traditional middle-class households Today, with the frenetic pace of lives that we lead, it’s not a common practice to put together an elaborate thali on a daily basis. If one wishes to partake of a thali, they need to visit the restaurants or food pop-ups, where a set menu is put together, containing the signature dishes of a region. For instance, you can have a Nagaland special meal at Nagaland’s Kitchen in Delhi, featuring dal, boiled veggies, rice, rosep, chutney, steamed fish and a choice of pork, chicken or crispy pork belly as an add-on. You can also opt for a set Assamese thali at Paradise, Guwahati,
The three doshas of biological humour according to which we must plan our dietary chart
which offers rice, khar, dal, pitika, dry vegetables, mutton curry, fish tenga, kahudi, mahor guri and doi. Then there are some places which have given a cult status to their thalis; one of them being the 113-year-old Chandravilas eatery in Ahmedabad, which has served several generations of families from across India. Today, there are many communities and food groups pan India who are actually working towards promoting different community based thalis, including royal thalis from the erstwhile former states of India. Thalis are a way of culinary life in India; they are an integral part of our ancient culture and tradition and will remain so for times to come.
Top to bottom: Kuzhambu, Mitha dahi and the Diwali farsan in Gujarat
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snacky treat
Team FnB BUZZ
Steamed Indian Snacks
Steam cooking food is easy and convenient as also its moolah for our health. All you need is just some simple ingredients. Try these super easy recipes 48
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recipes Executive Chef Navid Sayyad The Orchid Mumbai.
MEEN POLICHATHU (STEAM FISH)
Steamed Garlic Prawns
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Ingredients
Ingredients
For Paste • 3/4 cup grated Coconut • 1/2 cup Coriander leaves • 3 green chillies • 1 tbsp ginger garlic paste • 1/2 tsp chilli powder • 3 1/2 tsp coriander powder • 2 tbsp lemon juice • 1 tsp cumin powder • 1 tsp Sugar • Salt as required
Instructions
• • • • •
400gms of fish Salt as required 3 tbsp Vinegar 1 tbsp coconut oil Banana leaves as required
directions
• For preparing steam cooked fish, first clean and slit fish. Marinate it in vinegar and salt. • Keep aside for 30 minutes. • Lightly burn the banana leaves in gas stove. • Grind the ingredients for paste and cover each fish in the paste and fold the banana leaves. • Steam cooks the fish for 30 minutes. • Steam cooked fish is ready. Serve hot.
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12 large sized Prawns 1 tbsp coconut cream 1 tbsp coconut oil 1 whole head garlic – minced finely 3 tbsp vegetable oil
• With a pair of sharp kitchen scissors, remove the whiskers and the legs. Gently butterfly the prawns with scissors and remove the veins. Be careful not to cut too deep to avoid cutting the prawn into half. Place the prawns on a heat proof deep dish plate. • Place minced garlic in a small heat proof bowl. Heat up a small pot with vegetable oil until it starts to smoke. Pour heated oil over the garlic; it will make a crackle sound. Be careful when handling the pot with hot oil. • While waiting for garlic to cool down, place a steam rack inside a large work or pot, fill with water and bring it to rapid boil. . • Spoon garlic and oil into each prawn or just on top of prawns. • Place the prawns and steam for about 5-8 minutes. Remember to check at the 5 minute mark for doneness to avoid overcooked prawns. • Mix coconut cream and coconut oil in a small bowl. Spoon sauce over cooked prawns, garnish with coriander leaves. October 2017
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Maharashtrian Kothimbir Vadi
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Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
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1/4 cup roasted peanuts 1 tbsp ginger (adrak) 1 tbsp garlic (lahsun) 2 green chilies OR 2 tsp green chilies 1 to 2 tsp water for grinding 2 cups coriander leaves – finely chopped 1/4 tsp turmeric powder (haldi) 1/4 tsp red chili powder (lal mirch powder) 1/2 tsp coriander powder (dhania powder) 1/2 tsp cumin powder (jeera powder) 1 pinch asafoetida (hing) – optional 1 tbsp white sesame seeds (safed til) 1 cup besan (gram flour) 1/2 tsp sugar – optional salt as required 1/2 cup water for batter
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HOW TO MAKE RECIPE
• Grind the peanuts to a coarse powder. In the same small grinder, add 1 teaspoon ginger, 1 teaspoon garlic and 2 green chilies (or 2 teaspoons green chilies). • Add 1 to 2 tablespoon water and grind to a smooth paste. Keep aside. Alternatively you can even crush the garlic, ginger and green chillies in a mortar-pestle. Rinse coriander leaves very well. Drain the extra water and finely chop them. You will need 2 cups of finely chopped coriander leaves.
To make Kothimbir Vadi batter • Take the coriander leaves in a mixing bowl. Add the ginger+garlic+green chilli paste. • Now add 1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder, 1/4 teaspoon red chili powder, 1/2 teaspoon coriander powder, 1/2 teaspoon cumin
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Kothimbir vadi is a delicious savory crisp snack made with gram flour (besan), coriander leaves and spices. powder and 1 pinch of hing (optional). Next add the coarsely ground peanut powder and 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds. Add 1 cup besan (gram flour). Now add 1/2 teaspoon sugar (optional) and salt as required. Mix everything very well. Now add 1/2 cup water in parts and begin to mix the batter. Mix well to a thick batter. Add water as required and in parts. Now pour the mixture in a oiled pan. Stream the kothimbir vadi in an Idli steamer Once done, check with a tooth pick and it should come out clean. When the kothimbir mixture is cooled then gently removes the entire layer on a plate with a butter knife loosen the edges and invert the pan on a plate. Tap the pan and unmold the layer. Cut in square or diamond shaped slices. Serve hot.
By Chef Jitender, Chef In Charge, In Room Dining, The Ashok, New Delhi
Dhokla Sushi with Wasabi Mint Ingredients Chutney • • • • • • • •
3/4 cup rice dhokla batter 10 yellow capsicum strips 10 green capsicum strips 1 tsp oil 1 tbsp curds (dahi) salt to taste 1/2 tsp fruit salt Oil for brushing
To be mixed into a peanut red chilly garlic chutney mixture • 5 tsp peanut paste • 3 tsp red garlic chutney To be mixed into a black sesame coconut mixture • 2 tsp black sesame seeds (kala til) • 4 tsp freshly grated coconut
To be mixed into a wasabi mint chutney • 3 tbsp curds (dahi) • 2 tsp Mint Paste • 1/2 tsp wasabi sauce
•
Method • Combine rice dhokla batter, oil, curd and salt in a deep bowl and mix well. • Pour 1/3 cup of the prepared batter on a greased thali and tap well to spread evenly. • Steam it in a steamer for 3 to 4 minutes or till done. Keep aside. • Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make one more dhokla thali. • Cool slightly, loosen the edges and remove using a flat steel ladle. Keep aside. • Place a cling film on a clean, dry and
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flat surface, brush it with little oil and sprinkle half the black sesamecoconut mixture evenly over it. Place one dhokla sheet over it and spread half the peanut and red garlic chutney mixture evenly over it using a butter knife. Place yellow capsicum strips and 5 green capsicum strips over lapping each other on one side. Roll it very tightly, pressing each time while rolling. Make sure you do not roll the cling film while rolling. Place the rolled dhokla sushi on a clean dry surface and cut it into 8 equal portions using a sharp knife. Repeat steps 6 to 10 to make one more sushi. Serve immediately with wasabi mint chutney.
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liquids
Classic Coffees Coffees have emerged as one of the most liked beverages around the world. So, nomatter what season or place you are in, start the coffee conversation going
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Tapaswini Purnesh Director - Marketing & Promotions, Classic Coffees
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drink that goes back hundreds of years and can be traced to many foreign exotic countries, is fast gaining popularity among all ages because of the different avatars it can so easily sport.
coffee lovers generally find a way to enjoy their coffee
Known also as ‘liquid gold’, coffee has been a hot favourite for generations now. It is mostly served as a hot beverage and occasionally in a cold form with cream or ice cream. Tapaswini Purnesh of Classic Coffees who happens to be a Le Cordon Bleu graduate, shares a few interesting recipes to enjoy coffee in all weather and different occasions.
that can be consumed with lots of ice and fresh fruits. The surprise element of smelling the coffee always gets an amusing reaction from guests.
Coffee lovers generally find a way to enjoy their coffee irrespective of the weather or the time of the day and some even go to the extent of making it a fun beverage with their quirky recipes and whacko ideas. From a steaming cup of filter coffee first thing in the morning to an avocado smoothie coffee with the goodness of butter fruit can be a great switch to give you the caffeine shot as well as the vitamins and minerals from Avocado. If you are planning a brunch, you can add an element of fun with Coffee Sangria
On a hot day, instead of a store bought tub of regular joe ice cream, try making a fun coffee flavoured popsicle at home that is sure to win your guests over and if they don’t mind doing some work then you can even turn it into a workshop for everyone. If you wish to maintain a balance between drinking your regular coffee and switching to green tea, try some Japanese Iced coffee that is light on the palate, refreshing and is a great energizer at the same time! So if you love coffee, don’t be afraid to experiment with flavours, blends and styles. The results can be more amazing than you can ever imagine! So go ahead and try something new today.
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recipes
Avacado Coffee Smoothie Prep time: 5 mins Serves: 2 large glasses
Ingredients • 1.5 to 2 ripe avocados (depending on size) • 1 cup of Strong brewed coffee (240 ml) • 1/2 cup Condensed milk • 2 cups Ice cubes • 1 tsp Vanilla essence • 1/2 cup of Milk/Coconut milk/ Almond milk
Method Scoop the avocado flesh. Add it to a blender along with all other ingredients and blend till smooth.
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Coffee Popsicles with Sparkling wine Ingredients • Strong brewed coffee • Simple syrup infused with star anise (while making the simple syrup, add star anise) • *water + sugar in the ratio of 1:1 • Champagne/sparkling wine/ prosecco • Gin
Method • Mix brewed coffee with anise infused simple syrup as per your taste. • Set and freeze in any Popsicle moulds. • Once frozen, unmould popsicles, place one in a champagne flute, with a star anise and top up with 30ml gin and champagne. October 2017
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Coffee Sangria (makes 2 large glasses)
Sangria Base
Moroccan Spiced Coffee Prep Time : 10 mins Serves: 2 Note : • For black coffee: French press (coarse ground) – water : powder = 12 : 1 • For coffee with milk: South Indian filter • Moka pot (grind fine)
Ingredients • • • • • • •
4 tbsp Coffee powder 1/2 tsp Cinnamon (ground) 1/4 tsp Cardamom (ground) 1/8 tsp Nutmeg (ground) 3 nos clove 8 nos black pepper 1 inch ginger
Method • Grind all the dry spices and combine with grated ginger and ground coffee. Brew as you would with any equipment you are comfortable with. • Add milk and sugar to taste.
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• 700ml*Cold brewed coffee • 1 Orange or Tangerine cut into segments • 1 Lemon or lime cut into segments • Any other citrus fruit (grapefruit or kumquats etc.) • 1/2 a granny smith apple or any sour apple sliced into thin segments • 4/5 tbsp of simple syrup (water + sugar in the ratio of 1:1) • Juice from 1/2 orange • If alcohol is desired, 90ml of either tequila/vodka can be added *To make your cold brew at home – coarse ground your beans, add the powder into a French press with cold water in the ratio of 1:7 (ie for 100 grams of coffee add 700ml of water). Let it brew for 12 hours, before plunging.
Method • Mix cold brewed coffee with all the fruits, orange juice and simple syrup. Let it sit for an hour. • Top with alcohol if desired. • Serve chilled along with the fruits.
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globally
Halloween
Trick or treat
Halloween is catching up in its popularity in India. As hospitality began speaking a global language, restaurants and hotels are thronged by people for the festive treat
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W
Avantika Bhuyan The writer is a freelance journalist and has been writing on food, art and culture for more than a decade now.
e have all grown up on a hearty dose of Wonder Years, Small Wonder, and later, of course Friends. These sitcoms presented a wondrous and vibrant tableau of friendships and festivities, with the screen coming alive with Easter, Thanksgiving Christmas and Halloween celebrations. Who can forget the Halloween costume party from Friends in which Chandler dresses up in a pink bunny costume and Ross comes as Spud-nik. And in the background, is a table laden with delectables whipped up by Monica, who is a chef at a restaurant. You can almost taste the sweet candy and the devil’s food cakes, shown on screen. Till the last decade or so, the concept of Halloween, and the traditions associated with it, were alien to us, only to be savoured in Hollywood films and English sitcoms. But now, with increasing exposure, extensive travels and cross-cultural pollination, these ideas have not just become familiar but have slowly seeped into our lives. So, now when you mention Halloween,
It is believed that Halloween’s roots lie in three ancient festivals instantly, images of jack o’ lanterns, spooky disguises and bulging bags of candy come to mind. Today, kids in the metros plan their macabre costumes way ahead of time, parents buy copious amounts of candy to be distributed later, patisseries put out special menus featuring dead day biscuits and spider web cakes, and restaurants put up unique offers on food and cocktails to cater to the Halloween spirit. There are certain ingredients and dishes, which have become a part of the festival’s fabric over centuries. It is believed that Halloween’s roots lie in three ancient festivals – the Celtic Samhain, the Roman harvest festival of Pomona and the All Saint’s Day. According to food historians, when immigrants from Ireland, and other October 2017
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Halloween is celebrated with marshmallows as an integral sweet ingredient
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parts of Europe, came to America, they brought a mix of these three traditions. “Originally, they carved potatoes and turnips into lanterns to place in windows as a welcome for their deceased loved ones. They were quickly replaced with America’s native, and much larger pumpkin jack o’ lanterns,” writes Tori Avery, who explores the story behind the food – why we eat what we eat, how the recipes of different cultures have evolved, and how yesterday’s recipes can inspire us in the kitchen today. Today, pumpkins are grown especially for the festival, leading to some
heavy-duty contests in the US, with a lot of farmers vying for world records. In 2015, for instance, a 2,145-pound pumpkin from Illinois broke the record for North American’s largest pumpkin and the world’s second largest pumpkin. According to a report by ABC News, this massive vegetable, grown by farmer Gene McMullen, was weighed by Great Pumpkin Commonwealth officials at the Wine and Harvest Festival in Cedarburg, Wisconsin and was found to be just a few hundred pounds shy of the then-world record holder from
Apple is yet another ingredient which has inextricable links with the festival
Farmers compete during the Halloween to showcase the largest pumpkins Switzerland. McMullen also got the honour of being featured in the New York Botanical Gardens, just before Halloween. Apple is yet another ingredient which has inextricable links with the festival and this association can be traced back to the Samhain festival. According to tradition, young unmarried adults would try and bite an apple hanging from a tree, without using their hands. Whoever was successful, would be the next to marry. Though the tradition has now petered away in urban America, apples still find their way onto the table during Halloween, dipped in golden caramel. Of course, with endless options available these days, one can find apples dipped in rich cookie crumble, gooey marshmallow and more, besides the traditional caramel. Then there is the tradition of trickor-treating, such an integral part of American pop-culture, which is now quite a rage among kids in India as well. “In the 1950s, after World War II, Halloween and trickor-treating was aimed towards the youth and bringing neighbourhoods together. Pumpkin and witch cookies made with cookie cutters were a
popular item, as were devil’s food cupcakes topped with frosting in Halloween colour of orange and black – Orange representing pumpkins and the autumn harvest, black representing death and night time,” writes Avery. These days, the festival marks a busy time for candy makers and retailers, with Halloween-goers spending US$2.1 billion on candy (according to a 2016-article in Fortune). If you wish to craft your own Halloween menu, then there is no dearth of ideas on the good ol’ Internet. Staffers of grit.com, for instance, have a special list of dishes to be pulled out from the annals of history to add a unique touch to your spooktacular party, with suggestions such as potato pancakes and the potato-cabbage dish called colcannon. There are some wonderful harvest dishes such as the apple quick bread, roasted butternut squash, Finnish Turnip Casserole and red beet chocolate cake on the site, as well as cool DIY ideas for homemade candy. So, now get set to surprise the kids in your neighbourhood with some divine caramel apples, never-fail divinity candy and sponge candy, made right in your kitchen. Another great site is Martha Stewart’s, who loves filling
the buffet table with everything from devilish eggs to guaca-moldy. “Just because these Halloween appetisers – horror d’oeuvres, if you will – are scary and spine tinging, doesn’t mean they won’t taste good,” mentions the article on her site. However, if you don’t wish to go through the grind of baking and roasting, and still want to soak in the Halloween spirit, then head to one of the restaurants in the city. The F&B managers, having caught onto the growing popularity of the festival in India, are now churning out special Halloween offers and menus. In 2015, for instance, Monkey Bar, in Bandra, organised a Fright Night, where one had to dress at your scariest best and roam around tombstones, spider webs and glowing pumpkins. On offer were eerily-named cocktails and dishes such as Jameson’s Finger, Devil’s Fries, Funny Bones (barbequed pork ribs) and Dracula Wings (chicken wings). Sassy Spoon was also not far behind with its special cocktail menu featuring the Grimm Reaper and Hocus Pocus. At Skyy, Ramada Powai, spooky dishes such as Vampire Blood Soup (Tom Yum soup), Bloodied Mummy Toes (Sichuan corn curd, crisp creamed corn rectangular cakes topped with red and fiery chilli bean sauce) and Dracula’s blackened heart (tunde ke kebab), were enjoyed by the guests. This tradition is likely to gain full force again in the coming weeks, with Halloween specials being announced by the dozen. So, which spooktacular feast are you heading for? October 2017
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sweet take
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Off the
Sweetened Path
No one has ever disputed the power that sweets have on our palate (especially the Indian palate). Festivals without sweets are like cars without the engines or worse, having to live without breathing air. So, here we unwrap some of the delicacies for your festive addiction!
Mini Ribeiro Food critic, features writer and columnist.
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Above: Sweet carrot halwa; left to right: Patishapta
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weets play a vital role in every Indian celebration. The festive season naturally merits gorging on traditional Indian sweets. No panna cotta and crème brulee will do during this season. It is that time of the year when one seeks Indian mithai only. The palate often suffers from fatigue when at each festival one is continuously eating the same sweets – rosogullas, besan ladoos, balushahi or kaju katli. Fret not, given the diversity of Indian cuisine, there are so many undiscovered and unexplored sweets in different regions of India, which many of us are not even aware of. So this
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North India is known for its milk based and ghee laden sweets with khoya and nuts festive season, try some of these for a change.
Northern and Central India North India is known for its milk based and ghee laden sweets with khoya and nuts. While ladoos and kalakandare irresistible, one needs to transcend the palate boundaries and be more adventurous and experimental. Khoya need not be the only ingredient for barfis. Alok Verma, Executive Sous Chef, The Imperial, Delhi says, “Singhare ki burfi, made with the flour of water chestnuts, is a delicacy in central India. It has a distinct nutty aroma which gets enhanced as you fry or roast the flour with ghee. This is usually eaten during a fast.” Anurudh Khanna, Executive Chef Shangri-La, Bengaluru elaborates, “Jhajhariya is a delicacy of north Indian origin made of corn, milk, ghee and sugar garnished with raisins and nuts. Grated or coarsely ground fresh corn is slowly roasted in a small amount of ghee until it loses most of the water and assumes a dry granular form.” While gajar halwa made with carrots and khoya is most popular in north India, there are other unique halwas too which can be savoured. Khus halwa is a delicacy relished in winter months. Made with poppy seeds or khus khus roasted in copious amounts of ghee, this dessert not only satiates one’s guilty pleasures but also gives warmth to the body.
Bal mithai, a brown melt-in-themouth, chocolate-like fudge, made with roasted khoya, coated with white sugar balls, is a must-try sweet from the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand. Awadh may be famed for its biryani, but the rich and luscious sweets here are equally a treat. Says Chef Khanna, “Annanas ka muzzafar, a dessert made from rice and two popular flavours mango and pineapple, is relished on all festive occasions in Awadh.” Madhya Pradesh is home to some of the best sweets and snacks in India. Bhairav Singh, Master Indian Chef, Intercontinental Marine Drive Mumbai opines, “Burhanpur Jalebi is rarely found in the market as it is totally different from the normal jalebi. It has a mawa or khoya base which is black in colour and rich in taste. It is made of two interesting ingredients – mawa and Arrowroot Powder.”
Western India Parimal Sawant, Executive Chef, The Lalit Mumbai informs, “Chirote is a delicacy predominantly served in Maharashtra. It is eaten on special occasions.
Prepared by rolling out kneaded maida dough, it is cut into layered circular shapes and then deep fried in ghee. The semi-golden brown fluffy pooris are then sprinkled liberally with powdered sugar or grated almonds and cashew nut flakes.” Chef Bhairav Singh highlights the popularity of the aale pak in Maharashtra. “During my childhood, this was available in sweet shops and also in pansari shops (grocery stores) but nowadays, this sweet is very rare to find. A few hawkers still sell it during the winters. Each state has its own preparation with ginger, but Maharashtra’s aale pak is unique.” Gujaratis are known for for their farsan as they are for their sweets. “Halwasan is a sticky sweet famous from Khambhat region. It is rich and loaded with dry nuts. Katlu is a special sweet with ayurvedic benefits. It is served specially to women after they have given birth to a child,” says Chef Prashant Tikadia of Meluha, The Fern, Mumbai. He adds, “Mangroli peda is a unique preparation of flour, sugar, delicately flavoured with cardamom and melts in the mouth. Thor is basically served as prasad after offering as a bhog to Lord Krishna.”
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The diamond-shaped, wheat flour, ghee and jaggery sweet called Sukhadi, is also prepared in every Gujarati household as an offering to the Gods. Misri mawa is one of the famous sweets in Rajasthan’s rajgharanas, according to Chef Bhairav Singh. “The memory from my childhood of the soft and fresh milk mawa with little crunchiness of sugar candy and flavour of cardamom seeds, topped with desi rose petals, still lingers in my mind,” he reminisces.
Eastern India Who can travel to Kolkata and refrain from gorging on the plethora of sweets? However, one need not merely relish the sandesh, rosogulla, langcha, chamcham and kheer kadam. There are lesser known sweets which are equally worth trying. “Pantua is similar to the rasgulla except that the balls are fried in edible oil or ghee until golden or deep brown before being put in syrup,” Chef Anurudh says.
Misri mawa is one of the famous sweets in Rajasthan’s rajgharanas Gokul pithe made in traditional household is a delicacy that every Bengali covets. Made with Bengal gram soaked overnight, boiled and then ground into a paste, with a little addition of maida, this is a laborious sweet to prepare but worth the effort. Small discs made from the dough are stuffed with khoya and coconut filling and fried till golden brown and then soaked in sugar syrup for a few hours. “Pithas are usually enjoyed with the sweet syrups of khejurer gur (date tree molasses). The most common forms of these cakes include bhapa pitha (steamed), pakan pitha (fried), puli pitha (dumplings),” explains Chef Khanna.
Chef Verma adds, “Patishapta is prepared with milk and refined flour. It is like a malpua or cheela stuffed with mawa, coconut, dry fruit filling and jaggery and is served like a roll. Patishapta is most popular during Sankranti. The softness of the crepe and the sweet filling makes it unique and it is most commonly prepared by the Bengalis.” One cannot miss the famous khaja when in Bihar. A sweet made of refined wheat flour, sugar and edible oil; this is eaten on all festivals. In Odisha, the sweetened cheesecake made from burnt chenna called chennapoda is equally a treat for those with a sweet tooth.
Southern India Some of the most unusual and perhaps the best sweets are found in the southern states of India. Pootharekulu is a sweet from Andhra Pradesh which is lesser known and lost nowadays. Chef Bhairav Singh says, “This is one of the recipes which really need skill and perfection. It is made from rice paper sheet which takes a second to cook and then that paper sheet is filled with ghee, jaggery and cashew nut powder.” Another delectable sweet of this region is purnam burelu. These are sweet dumplings made during Sankranti, Ganesh Chaturthi and Dusshera. Served as an offering to deities, it is made by shaping a sweet ball from chana dal and jaggery that is dipped in the dosa batter and deep fried till it gets a golden brown colour. Chef Khanna adds, “Kamarcut, is a traditional South Indian candy made out of jaggery. Jaggery is slow cooked in water until it achieves a honey-like consistency.
Kerala’s celebrations are incomplete without the typical ada pradhaman Shredded coconut can be added to the mixture to give it a texture. It used to be available widely in South India but is now rare in urban areas. It is still often sold in villages.” Kerala’s celebrations are incomplete without the typical ada pradhaman, made with homemade rice flakes (ada) and tapioca pearls (sago) cooked in a sweet jaggery syrup, to which coconut milk is added. According to Chef Verma, “Pathir pheni is from the southern part of India. The taste and distinctive
flavour of pheni comes from semolina. The pheni is actually a puffed puri which has no sweetness in itself. It is served with powdered sugar and badam (almond) milk. It is sweetened milk flavoured with ground almonds, saffron and cardamom. Soaking the pheni in warm badam milk for 15-20 minutes is another way to serve it as the pheni absorbs some sweetness from the milk.” So, take your taste buds on a rollercoaster ride this festive season as you embark upon a journey of trying unusual Indian sweets. October 2017
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legend
Tryst with the
Culinary Magician Chef Rakesh Sethi is the Corporate Executive Chef of Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group. He was also featured on Food Food Channel with his exclusive show Tea Time
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W Diana Mehra The writer is the Deputy Editor of Food and Beverage Buzz Magazine and Defence and Security Alert Magazine.
hile I was preparing to interview Chef Rakesh Sethi, the Corporate Executive Chef of Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group, I learnt how time played its nascent importance. For that matter, I recorded the time. 27 of September. 1.22pm. It was the destined day and time after days of follow up and mobile networks going haywire (even to the point when I suspected the best network I had acquired for my phone was not good enough), the shub mauhurat came with the Chef dropping in the office of Food and Beverage Buzz magazine, apologetic yet happy to have finally met all of us. That was to me, the divine intervention. After half an hour of chattering, coffee and glossing through the contents of the previous editions of the magazine, the Chef turned his benevolent attention to finish the much needed interview. None of the questions which I had framed for him worked, but I was not panicked. You would be enamored by his narrative anyways. Chef Rakesh Sethi is a story teller. A script before him would not work, he likes his conversations and he likes them spontaneous. Time did me a favour, made me follow up with the Chef and taught me to wait. It was way worth it, because every word the Chef poured out was trickle of honey to my ears. Like they say, patience fruit is sweet. “It’s not about what you know; it’s about what they want” Chef Rakesh Sethi dished out his treasure of experience before me from his pensieve pool of memory. Having worked in the kitchens of the best of hotels and also having worked as a Food Editor on Food Food Channel, the Chef says there is much difference in cooking for a show and cooking to
The Chef entered the Hotel industry as a trainee feed but there isn’t must difference in the mode of catering food. “From a hotel kitchen, you cook to satiate the customers. From the TV studio, you cook for a vast audience, who wants to learn culinary skills, replicate the dishes they had experienced in hotels and restaurants, etc. People are now more experiential and they want to learn. So, whatever you do, you cook for an audience. It’s their demands that drive a chef’s hands and heart. Eventually, your skills aid you but it’s not always about what you know, it’s about what they want for an experience.” “Humble beginnings” The Chef entered the Hotel industry as a trainee. He chuckles with reminiscence, “Even after a diploma in hospitality, I started my career as a trainee”. Training was the best period in Chef Rakesh Sethi’s long cooking career because he remembers asking a lot of questions to his mentors during that time. He adds, “One can learn as much as he wants and even after 35 years of being in the hospitality industry, I still have the feeling and zeal of a trainee because the learning process never stops.” The Chef has had mentors who were hard on him when he was beginning to explore his abilities in the kitchen. It was purely his eagerness that motivated him to learn from his seniors no matter how hard they were and he has enjoyed the journey of earning their confidence. “After the ice was broken, my mentors began teaching me about food and flavours with their arms open,” says a victorious Chef Rakesh Sethi. October 2017
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“Authenticity is the key to good food” A chef has to cook to satiate his customers. That’s the prima facie of the job. “Our teachers had learnt their art the hard way and learning the authenticity about our cuisine was the challenging part of carrying forward the legacy. But by demands, we have to imbibe many ways of cooking and so today, we have progressive food, molecular food, fusion food, etc. So, innovations come as a part of desiring to give your customers a par excellence experience out of the dishes you cook. Balancing of ingredients and flavours is quintessential. Chefs have to combine to create,’’ says the Chef on inculcating authenticity in dishes even as we are on to innovations. He adds, “Chefs these days make use of yellow or red bell peppers in kadai paneer or kadai chicken. Bell peppers are foreign to Indian food but making use of the
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A look at the lavish reception of Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group
Balancing of ingredients and flavours is quintessential. Chefs have to combine to create
variety in some of our dishes was a minor innovation that came with expat chefs and it pulled off Wonder Tastes.” (laughs) So, the taste was kept intact yet the cooking style and the dish itself was innovated, “once you stop innovating, you go out of touch with what your customers want and you become outdated. It’s not the recipe alone but the passion and the hands that also play a great role in giving authenticity to a dish and persevere for innovation,” adds the profuse Chef who is known for making dishes in the quickest ways and innovating recipe after recipe on snacks and cuisines. Food presentation and food ingredient standards can be different for in-flight kitchens and restaurant kitchens. The Chef used to prepare 26,000 meals in a day when he was involved with flight kitchens. Today, Chef Rakesh Sethi is one of the kohinoors of our
Indian food industry having hands down experience to make recipes, to create menus, to launch restaurants, to help in the cost management of kitchens in hotels and restaurants and of course, a popular face on TV cook shows. Although, the Chef knows his art like the back of his hand, he still emphasizes on the necessity to keep learning and to have the basics and technicalities of hospitality crystal clear. He says, “Hygiene and precision is the religion of a chef. Technicalities matter a lot. If we were to cook pasta, al dente for example, people sometimes don’t understand the food and can call it uncooked. So, imparting knowledge with the food is as much important. For that basics have to be mastered. Customers’ needs are ever changing. So, the chefs have to be abreast with the latest to deliver the best. A chef has to know the seasons, the freshest veggies and the best meat. He is a know-how master of food.” “The biggest learning comes from travelling” Today, travelling is not seen just as leisure experience. It’s called an investment because travelling is the best source of knowledge. “Thirtyfive years ago chefs used to stick to their kitchens. Continental chefs never used to cook Indian, lest peep into an Indian dish in the next kitchen. So, with international hotels and their leaderships coming from different countries, and also with the travel industry flourishing, demands were in variety and in order to meet the variance of authenticity, chefs started travelling to experience authenticity as also to understand seasons, origin of different kinds of food, management knowledge, to meet vendors, etc. Some of the foreign ingredients need to be sourced out from the best places or sometimes; we tie up with the wholesale vendors abroad or procure similar stuffs from
local market if they are available. So many technicalities go in the planning of a kitchen: sourcing to making. Your specifications are in your hands and monitoring them is in the hands of the chefs. Travelling enables the chef to understand these specifications and experience.” “Book in the offing?” After a pleasant share of knowledge, my mind was stuffed with the inspiration to explore the culinary tables of different chefs. Timidly, I asked him if I could visit his kitchen in the hotel someday, to which he smiled and said I am more than welcome. To a stature who had such an ocean of knowledge, my last but obvious question was, won’t he document his experience in the form of a book. “I would like to write a book,” came the reply, “I would like to focus on the authenticity of Indian food. I have travelled widely and done TV shows and I find our regional food very astounding in taste. We have such a great culinary heritage in every nook and corner of India and I would like to work to bring out the different tastes at the fore.” Chef Rakesh Sethi is truly the progeny of flavours and he has indeed imparted the knowledge of the chain of creativity in making food that yields the result of exquisite tastes.
Chef Rakesh Sethi is truly the progeny of flavours and he has indeed imparted exquisite tastes
Chef Rakesh Sethi on Tea Time show aired on Food Food Channel
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know your F&B
Epic Food Museums
across the World
We have been to countless history, art and science museums. Perhaps, the tour was boring or just information talks. But these food museums will not fail to entertain you and celebrate the one thing you love with all your heart: good food.
Museum of Ice Cream (New York, New York) You scream, I scream, we all scream for ice cream-The Museum of Ice Cream that is. What better way to escape the unbearable humidity of summer than a visit to this sweet establishment, featuring a swimmable pool of sprinkles, an immersive chocolate room and an ice cream sandwich swing? And of course you’ll get to enjoy some ice cream while you’re there too, courtesy of Dr Irwin Adam, a food futurist and scientist. There’s also a Scoop of the Week attraction, which brings in some of NYC’s most beloved ice cream spots, like Black Tap, OddFellows Ice Cream Co. and more.
Colman’s Mustard Shop and Museum (Norwich, England)
While mustard is not always anyone’s favourite condiment, there is certainly Colman’s museum where you will enjoy mustard surprisingly. The museum has been open since 1973, and has become one of the city’s most popular attractions. A visit to Colman’s will teach you how Jeremiah Colman started his mustard business, show you how Colman’s mustard is made and let you sample a variety of different mustards.
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World of Coca-Cola (Atlanta, Georgia) What better way to learn about America’s top-selling soda than at the World of Coca-Cola itself? Here you’ll learn about the history of this classic drink, take a peek at the super secret recipe, and view the best of Coca-Cola advertising and artifacts. The coolest part of the museum, however, has got to be the Sampling Bar, which allows guests to try over 100 international and domestic beverages made by The CocaCola Company. This includes five tasting stations from Africa, Asia, Europe, Latin America, and North America that each offer different drinks unique to that region. I’ve got my eyes on the Sparletta Sparberry from South Africa.
The Chocolate Museum (Cologne, Germany) Finally, a place where all chocolate addicts can congregate to share their love for all things chocolate. And in Germany, nonetheless, where the chocolate is superb. The museum takes guests through a tropical greenhouse where cocoa is grown and into their production hall that houses a grand fountain filled with Lindt chocolate (and yes, you’re allowed to drink from the fountain). There’s even 30 chocolate vending machines dating back as far as the 1950s. And what would a chocolate museum be without a chocolate factory? Through glass walls, guests can see the entire process of making chocolate, starting with the cocoa beans and ending with packaging. The museum also features a confectionary where both adults and children can try their hand at crafting their own chocolate creations.
Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum (Yokohama, Japan)
Now you can learn about and celebrate all the ramen that got you through so many exams when there was nothing else you could afford to eat. This museum is a bit different from the more traditional ones previously listed, as it showcases nine renowned ramen shops from all over Japan in a street-scape replication from the year 1958, when ramen was invented. Guests can buy portions of ramen from the shops, and/or make their own version at the “My Ramen” booth.
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News
Now experience the awesomeness of Italian pizzas at Café Coffee Day in Mumbai The love affair with pizzas is all set to reach a new level in Mumbai as Café Coffee Day brings the awesomeness of Italian pizzas to its scrumptious menu. The original café culture pioneer, Café Coffee Day extends its wide-range of food options with a deliciously tasteful range of veg and non-veg pizzas in exotic flavours, topped with farm fresh ingredients and 100% Italian Mozzarella Cheese. The new range of Italian pizzas is sure to offer every food lover, a perfect reason to head to the café for a filling and flavoursome meal. Starting at just Rs. 185, these pizzas are pocket-friendly. Adding to the delight, Café Coffee Day offers an irresistible introductory Double Pizza Feast deal, where you can Buy 1 Pizza and get a flat 50% off on the second pizza.
Gaurav Taneja joins Radisson Blu Atria, Bengaluru as the General Manager Radisson Blu Atria, Bengaluru is pleased to announce the appointment of Gaurav Taneja as the new General Manager of the property. A seasoned hotelier with more than 22 years of industry experience, in his current role, Gaurav will be spearheading responsibilities of ensuring the newly opened Radisson Blu Atria continues to enhance its reputation as a leading hotel in the city. He will continue to lead the formulation and implementation of strategies to enhance guest experience and operational efficiency within the hotel and most importantly building and inspiring the team to greater perfection
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Marriott International Wins Coveted Honours at Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Awards Marriott International proudly took home six prestigious awards from The Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Awards announced at a presentation luncheon at the Conrad Hong Kong Hotel. The Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Awards celebrate the best in the travel and hospitality industry as recognized by the region’s business travellers. The six awards include JW Marriott winning the Best Business Hotel Brand in North America, The RitzCarlton being named the Best Luxury Hotel Brand in the Asia-Pacific and Starwood Preferred Guest (SPG) being recognized as the Best Hotel Loyalty Program. In addition, three hotels took individual awards: JW Marriott Hotel Singapore South Beach won Best New Business Hotel in Asia-Pacific, W Bali in Seminyak won Best Resort Hotel in Asia-Pacific and The St. Regis Bangkok won Best Business Hotel in Bangkok. These awards recognize outstanding hotel properties that go above and beyond and set the standard in daily operation and customer service. The Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Awards is now in its 26th year and are voted for by some of the region’s most qualified judges: the Business Traveller Asia-Pacific readers. These 30,000-plus individuals travel for a living, taking an average of 19 business trips a year, and their views provide valuable industry feedback. Between April and June, Business Traveller Asia-Pacific sent out a voting poll to subscribers, with the results independently compiled by market research leader Ipsos. Marriott International’s luxury portfolio includes The Ritz-Carlton, Ritz-Carlton Reserve, JW Marriott, W Hotels, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts, The Luxury Collection, BVLGARI Hotels & Resorts, and EDITION Hotels.
THE SECOND EDITION OF ‘INDIA NIGHTLIFE CONVENTION & AWARDS The National Restaurant Association of India (NRAI) and Kickstart Entertainment in association with Budweiser present the 2nd edition of the India Nightlife Convention and Awards (INCA) on 30th September & 1st October 2017. This property showcases the best that Indian bars and nightlife have to offer, it recognizes and celebrates thought leadership, as well as provides a platform for industry stalwarts to mingle and imbibe a sense of fraternity. NRAI is the voice of the restaurant industry in India, known for uniting the hospitality community and with this venture they have helped assemble the best in this field. From inception to the approval of the bill permitting malls and restaurants to stay open 24x7 in Mumbai, INCA has supported and raised the bar (!) and nightlife industry of the country. Having made its mark last year, INCA is back, and it’s bigger and better. The two-day national business convention encompasses of workshops and panels with some of the industry’s most influential entrepreneurs and specialists. The second edition of INCA is being presented by Budweiser, in association with Johnnie Walker. Through this platform, Budweiser is fulfilling its commitment towards bringing the best in nightlife experiences and shaping the culture in India.
FIRST EVER WORLD FOOD BOX OFFICE! WORLD STREAT FOOD DELICATESSEN AND TAPROOM presented World’s first ever box office of food. From now on, every Friday a food box office is premiered at the heart of Mumbai, a very brand new concept in the world history never ventured by anyone before with each passing week a different countries cuisine is celebrated. Not only the food but the ambience of restaurant will give you the true feel of the country’s cuisine celebrated. Serving dishes from across 52 countries experiencing wide varieties in the cuisine is merely a celebration for all the foodie people. 52 different Countries, cuisines under one roof by WORLD STREAT FOOD DELICATESSEN AND TAPROOM has come up with such a blazing idea serving from across different countries is regarded as the heart and soul of international cuisine. Round the Globe WORLD STREAT FOOD DELICATESSEN AND TAPROOM has gained the popularity for its great taste, natural flavours, scrumptious dishes, and rich quality.
Zomato makes strategic investment in Tinmen Zomato Founder and CEO, Deepinder Goyal, shared a blog post earlier today announcing the company’s investment in Hyderabad based – Tinmen. Tinmen is a home-cooked meal delivery app that currently serves 10 major areas in Hyderabad - Madhapur, Hitec City, Kondapur, Gachibowli, Jubilee Hills, Banjara Hills, Begumpet, Miyapur, Manikonda and Kukatpally. Tinmen is already delivering over 30,000 orders a month, and is looking to steadily multiply this number over the next 6 to 9 months. Zomato and Tinmen will work together (initially in Hyderabad, and then the rest of the country) to provide access to better food for more people.
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