Aquarium World vol 67 issue 1 2022

EDITOR Darren Stevens editor@fnzas.org.nz

ASSISTANT EDITOR Mark Paterson

COPY EDITOR Caryl Simpson

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR Diane Wilkie diane@scratchmedia.co.nz

Aquarium World Magazine is published biannually by the Federation of New Zealand Aquatic Societies Incorporated (FNZAS)

ISSN 2815-7435

Copyright ©FNZAS, no part of this publication may be reproduced, or transmitted in any form, or by means electronic, mechanical or otherwise without written permission

Marvellous mantis shrimps by Darren Stevens and Mark Paterson

FISH PROFILE - Apistogramma agassizii ‘Fire red’ by Andrew Coffey

A striking wrasse - Pseudocheilinus hexataenia

READER EXPERIENCE - Rising from the ashes - a Fish Garage NZ story by Maxine Lynch 34 HOW TO - Cultivate mealworms by Mark Paterson 38 MINI FISH PROFILE - half banded kuhli loach

PLANT PROFILE - Feathery leaved aquatic plants by Melanie Newfield

INTERESTING IMPORTS by the Editorial Team

IMAGE SOURCES

FNZAS AFFILIATED CLUBS

FNZAS SHOP DISCOUNT PARTICIPANTS

FRONT COVER

Female mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus

Photo: Roy L Caldwell Department of Integrative Biology, University of California, Berkeley www.fnzas.org.nz

Welcome to a new issue of Aquarium World.

In this issue we feature mantis shrimps: these remarkable crustaceans generally live in burrows and so are often overlooked but they have several incredible adaptations including superb vision and exceptional strike speeds. New Zealand has 20 species of these voracious predators and if you are after a challenge, they would make a great subject for a dedicated local marine aquarium.

Apistogrammas are generally peaceful, the males are often beautifully coloured, and they are a great feature fish for many smaller community aquaria. In this issue, Andrew Coffey shares his experience with keeping and breeding a stunning variety of Apistogramma agassizii, 'Fire red'.

Fish keeping is a great hobby but it certainly has its share of highs and lows. In 2016, Maxine Lynch had a great selection of fish and aquaria in her detached garage, that was until her garage caught on fire. In this issue Maxine shares this horrible experience. While her garage had to be rebuilt, fortunately no fish were lost, and she now has a new, purposebuilt, fish room.

And finally, Melanie Newfield continues her great series of aquatic plant articles, this time on feathery leaved aquatic plants.

I hope you all have a great Christmas and an enjoyable break.

Darren Stevens FNZAS Editor

Male Apistogramma agassizii ‘Fire Red’

Photo: Andrew Coffey

Andrew Coffey

Andrew can’t remember a time as a child that he wasn’t keeping tadpoles, frogs and fish from local ponds There have been times in his life that he has been in remission but he freely accepts that he has been afflicted by ‘MTS’ for the best part of 30 years. In the past he has kept and bred a variety of Plecos, African cichlids, and rainbow fish. Currently he is keeping and breeding Tanganyikan cichlids, Victorian haps and is trying his luck with apistogrammas and various oddballs.

Maxine has been a fish keeper for most of her life, with a passion to continue killifish strains in New Zealand, to ensure that as many varieties of this beautiful species are available to future fish keepers. With a passion for nano fish, most of her fish-garage is made up of tanks of less than 200L, with the exception of a 1000L tank that was put in for rescues. Maxine is a public servant and has held various roles in her time in the FNZAS.

Darren is a marine biologist who has worked for NIWA for about 20 years. He regularly participates in research surveys and has been around much of New Zealand as well as Oman, UAE, and the Ross Sea, Antarctica. In his spare time he enjoys fishing, and is a particularly passionate pleco keeper. Darren is an active participant in his local clubs and FNZAS Editor.

Melanie Newfield

Mark began fish keeping when he was a child, keeping live bearers and Siamese fighters. He has worked for circus and zoo parks in NZ and overseas. For the last 28 years he has kept many species of aquatic life but NZ local marine is his keenest interest. Mark loves to share this passion & knowledge with fellow hobbyists and is currently running the marine systems at a local university.

Melanie returned to fish keeping last year after a 25 year break. She originally studied botany and is as keen on plants as well as fish. Her tanks are mainly planted, aquascaped community tanks. She also has a lifelong interest in invasive species, especially invasive plants.

Advertising for the Aquarium World magazine and the Aquarium World website is managed by the FNZAS and can be arranged by emailing: advertising@fnzas.org.nz

Accounts: Patricia Lynch treasurer@fnzas.org.nz

Caryl Simpson caryl@simtronics.co.nz

mantis shrimps Marvellous

Mantis shrimps are remarkable invertebrates. They are not shrimps, but an ancient group of crustaceans called stomatopods and they get their name from their large praying mantis-like raptorial claws which they use to capture prey.

by Darren Stevens and

Mark Paterson

Anchisquilloides mcneilli

Photo: ©Rob Stewart, NIWA

There are about 450 species of mantis shrimp, and they are found in a wide variety of habitats from the shore down to 1500 m. Most species occur in tropical and sub-tropical waters, although a few species live in temperate and even subAntarctic waters.

They play an important role in marine ecosystems, controlling the number of some species and burrowing species increase turnover and oxygenation of sediments. Overseas, several species are fished commercially but they are susceptible to overfishing and habitat loss (Ahyong https://australian.museum/ learn/animals/crustaceans/mantisshrimp/).

Mantis shrimps generally grow to about 10 cm long and live for two to

Close up of peacock mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus eyes Photo: Cédric Peneau

seven years. However, there are notable exceptions: some species rarely reach 3 cm while the zebra mantis shrimp can grow to about 40 cm, and the peacock mantis shrimp may live for 20 years.

Mantis shrimps are usually solitary and live in burrows, so they are seldom seen but are often attractively coloured, and they have several truly incredible adaptations, including exceptional vision and amazing strike speeds. Their eyes can move independently and may be the most complex eyes in the animal kingdom. Human eyes have three types of light detecting cells while mantis shrimps have 12–16 and they can see polarized light.

There are two main types of mantis shrimp, named after the shape and function of their raptorial claws: ‘spearers’ and ‘smashers’.

Most mantis shrimps species are spearers, and they have two sharp claws lined with sharp teeth which they use to stab and snag their prey. They are ambush predators that live in burrows in soft sediments (sand or mud). Spearers mainly feed on evasive prey such as soft-bodied fish and crustaceans, and they can launch their claws at up to 5.7 metres per second.

Smashers can strike out with their clubs at incredible speed and force. They have one of the fastest strikes on earth (10–23 metres per second) and at an impact force of up to 1,500 Newtons (more than 2500 times their body weight). If one super hit wasn’t impressive enough, they deliver a second shockwave. Their strike is so fast that it creates an area of low pressure, and cavitation bubbles form, which then collapse releasing energy, forming a shockwave. Both limbs are generally used so the unfortunate prey receives four strikes.

Smashers are the heavy hitters of the mantis shrimp world. They have two club-shaped limbs, each with a sharp inner edge, which they use to hit, smash apart, and cut their prey. Smashers are foragers and they generally live in cavities or burrows and mainly feed on hardbodied, often slow-moving animals such as crabs and snails which they smash open.

New Zealand has 20 species of mantis shrimp, eight are found only in New Zealand and one is invasive. The Japanese mantis shrimp Oratosquilla oratoria was discovered in Kaipara Harbour in 2009 and is thought to have entered New Zealand as larvae in ballast water (Ahyong 2010). It is under sustained control and under

Mantis shrimp Squilla mantis showing spearing raptorial claws Photo: public domain

Peacock mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus showing club like raptorial claws Photo: Prilfish

the Biosecurity Act (1993) it is illegal to keep it in captivity. If you catch one you must destroy it immediately (https://www.nrc.govt.nz/environment/ weed-and-pest-control/pest-controlhub/?pwsystem=true&pwid=20).

IN THE AQUARIUM

If you are after a challenge, a mantis shrimp is a great subject for a dedicated local marine aquarium. However, they are voracious predators and will often kill and eat tank mates, including other mantis shrimps, so it pays not to keep them with valuable, or delicate, animals. Also be very careful if you are handling them – spearers are also called thumb splitters, and smashers can deliver a series of very powerful blows and cuts. Most New Zealand mantis shrimps are spearers. They live in burrows in soft

sediment, so they need a deep sand bed (as deep as the mantis is long) and a burrow. You can make burrows by burying a U-shaped piece of PVC pipe (with a diameter that is 1.5 X the width of the mantis shrimp) in the sand so that both holes are at the surface.

the invasive mantis shrimp Oratosquilla oratoria Photo: photographer unknown

Hemisquilla australiensis in captivity Photo: Mark Paterson

Although most species are solitary, if you have a very large tank and the burrows are well spaced, you may be able to keep more than one spearer in the same aquarium. A chilller will likely be required in warmer areas particularly over summer.

Spearers can be fed on live, or frozen, fish or prawns. Put frozen food on a skewer and wave it about in front of their burrow or even touch them gently with

Odontodactylus hawaiiensis

Photo: NIWA

it. They may take a while getting used to frozen food (which should be soaked in nutrient and calcium supplements) but keep trying and they will hopefully start eating it. Mantis shrimps should be fed once a day to two times a week.

Bathysquilla microps

Photo:

©Chris Thomas, NIWA

Mantis shrimps are not allowed to be imported into New Zealand. Overseas, the strikingly coloured peacock mantis (Odontodactylusscyllarus), a rock burrower (smasher), is often kept in captivity. Tropical smashers, including the peacock mantis shrimp, are very rare but occasionally captured in northern New Zealand.

Compared to spearers, smashers are a little easier to keep in captivity. You will need a tank with a sand substrate and some live rock, preferably with holes/ crevices in it for the mantis shrimp to live in (they will smash a hole in the rock if a suitable one isn’t available). Smaller smashers may live in large shells. Smashers can be fed on small hermit crabs and crabs. They may eat fish but

they need at least some hard-shelled prey in their diet.

Some smashers can damage live rock and there are occasional reports of them breaking aquarium glass. This is unlikely unless they are taunted although they may break glass during digging. Large smashers (>15 cm) should probably be kept in acrylic aquaria or at least in an aquarium with an acrylic base.

Smashers may also hitchhike in live rock. If you own a tropical marine tank, be careful when purchasing live rock. It can sometimes contain a juvenile mantis shrimp which may become an unwelcome pest.

Peakcock mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus

Photo: Charlene McBride

References

Ahyong, ST (2010). Japanese shrimp makes NZ debut in Kaipara Harbour. Seafood New Zealand 18: 11–12.

Ahyong, ST (2012). The Marine Fauna of New Zealand: Mantis Shrimps (Crustacea: Stomatopoda). NIWA Biodiversity Memoir 125.

Ahyong, ST. Mantis shrimp. https://australian.museum/learn/animals/ crustaceans/mantis-shrimp/. Retrieved July 2022

Caldwell, R. Roy’s list of stomatopods for the aquarium; the identification and care of mantis shrimp. https://ucmp.berkeley.edu/ arthropoda/crustacea/malacostraca/eumalacostraca/royslist/index. html#directory. Retrieved July 2022

deVries, MS, Murphy, EAK, Patek SN (2012). Strike mechanics of an ambush predator: the spearing mantis shrimp. Journal of Experimental Biology 215: 4374–4384. https://doi.org/10.1242/jeb.075317

Hansford, D (2020). Aliens on earth. NZ Geographic 164: https://www. nzgeo.com/stories/aliens-on-earth/. Retrieved July 2022

Heim, M. (2021). A peacock of a different feather. https:// thefisheriesblog.com/2021/11/15/peacockmantis/#:~:text=It%20is%20 also%20one%20of,one%20of%20the%20strongest%20species.

O’Shea, S, Raethke, N, Clark, M (2000). Bathysquillamicrops – a spectacular new deepsea crustacean from New Zealand.Seafood New Zealand 8(9): 36.

Patek, SN, Caldwell, RL (2005). Extreme impact and cavitation forces of a biological hammer: strike forces of the peacock mantis shrimp Odontodactylusscyllarus. Journal of Experimental Biology 208: 3655–3664. https://doi.org/10.1242/jeb.01831

Patel, P (2019). Camera Mimics Mantis Shrimp’s Astounding Vision. Scientific American 320: 12. https://www.scientificamerican.com/ article/camera-mimics-mantis-shrimps-astounding-vision/ Wuest, P (2019). What Happens When a Mantis Shrimp Packs a Punch? The research behind one of the most fascinating mechanisms in the animal kingdom. https://www.sportdiver.com/what-happens-whenmantis-shrimp-packs-punch. Retrieved July 2022

Mantis shrimp (Lysiosquillinamaculata). http://www.theaquariumwiki. com/wiki/Lysiosquillina_maculata.

Japanese mantis shrimp. Squillidae –Oratosquillaoratoria. Northland Regional Council. Te Kaunihera ? rohe o Te Taitokerau. https:// www.nrc.govt.nz/environment/weed-nd pest-control/pest-controlhub/?pwsystem=true&pwid=20

Thanks to Kareen Schnabel, NIWA, for her feedback on an earlier version of this article. Darren Stevens & Mark Paterson

Peakcock mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus

Photo: François Libert

Apistogramma agassizii ' Fire red'

profile and photos by Andrew Coffey

This Genus has numerous species and one of the most popular is the species A. agassizii. It is named after 19th century Swiss geologist and biologist Louis Agassiz and is widely distributed throughout the Amazon in Peru, Colombia and Brazil. A. agassizii has a number of variants like ‘Alenquer’ (as pictured above) and ‘Rio Tefé’ (on the facing page) found in the wild, some of which may be separate undescribed species. It is considered by many to be a complex of several closely related species. Line breeding of these wild fish has developed a number of man-made variants and one of the most recent of these was developed in Japan from the ‘Rio Tefé’ variant - the Agassizii ‘Fire Red’. Other trade names are ‘Fire Gold’, ‘Fire Red gold’, and “Gold” Fire Red (as sold in NZ). Adult males show red, orange, pinks, and purples. Females, as with most Apistos are less colourful but as orange are still very colourful.

Apistogramma agassizii 'Alenquer'

Photo: Andrew Coffey

Overview: This is a combination of what I had researched and what I have learned.

Max size: Males 7.5cm and females smaller getting to about 5cm.

Behaviour: A peaceful fish with loads of personality suitable for many community situations especially if kept as a single fish. They are a cichlid though and will become territorial if kept as a mated pair and they will show aggression toward tank mates during breeding. Though, in my experience this is no more than chasing other fish away from the breeding territory and where the fry are being raised.

Diet: They are carnivorous and do best on a varied diet of high-quality flake, and frozen foods such as bloodworms and brine shrimp.

Temperature: 22–29 oC. Temperature should be on the high side of this scale for breeding. Being a tank bred variant I don’t think pH levels are overly important, but something close to neutral would be preferable.

Tank size and setup: A single fish could work in a 50 litre tank with a few dither fish. A pair would need a minimum 2ft long tank of about 75 litres and if you were looking at keeping a group then 3ft minimum. The tank should be well planted with hiding places, particularly in a well-lit tank. The substrate should ideally be sand as these fish naturally sift the substrate for food. A smaller gravel is fine but avoid any substrate that is rough or sharp edged as it will damage the fishes’ mouths. They will also enjoy the addition of wood and ground cover like leaf litter.

Tank mates: A single fish will happily live peacefully and be a great centre piece to a

‘community tank’. Small schooling fish such as tetras, rasboras, pencilfish, cory’s and other ‘community tank’ species will not be bothered. Single fish can also be housed with similar sized small cichlids such as rams, acaras, and smaller ‘Geophagus’ species. I have a single female apisto in such a set up but would advise against having any pairs in that environment. Larger “New World’ cichlids are not suitable tank mates.

Breeding: Caves made from ceramics or half coconut shells are needed as the female will inhabit one of these and invite the male in to spawn. The female will remain in the cave, tending the eggs until they hatch. She will emerge from the cave with free swimming fry after a few days. Both parents will protect the fry from other tank inhabitants.

Apistogramma agassizii 'Rio Tefé' Photo: ©Mike Impos

My Experience: I acquired a pair of these fish (above) in August 2022 and housed them in an existing 2ft, 70 litre tank with a sand substrate, adding more plants and a coconut cave. I also added Catappa leaves to the tank floor for extra hiding spots and to give extra tannin to the water for general medicinal purposes, as well as to give the tank a black water look. My water supply is rain fed tank water so my pH is fairly neutral. Filtration is an internal trickle type filter with an additional sponge filter. Weekly water changes are about 20%. Temperature runs at 27 degrees and the only other inhabitants are a school of 7 ember tetras. These are important as I think they help develop a bond between the pair, particularly when it comes to parental care and protecting fry. I did originally have the embers as dither fish, as apistos can be shy and retiring, but I have

found the Fire Reds to be quite gregarious and happy to come up to the front of the tank and freely interact. Once settled in, the female soon secured the cave as her space. By late September her orange colouring was even more vibrant than normal, a sure sign she was getting close to wanting to spawn, and the male was soon entering the cave. Fry emerged within the week and both parents were very diligent in protecting and guarding the fry. The male does not look to be trying to predate on them, which is something male apistos tend to do. The female seems happy to have him in close proximity. I did not plan to remove this spawn from the first time parents and, at the time of writing this, there were still fry surviving, using the leave litter and moss as hiding spots.

Andrew Coffey

The six-line wrasse Pseudocheilinus hexataenia is a stunning small (to 10 and a small eyespot at the top of the tail. It is widespread throughout the shallow coral reefs for small crustaceans. Despite its small size it can be not with other wrasses. Suitable tank mates include tangs, angelfish, and quite hardy and will accept a variety of food. They will also eat troublesome

Robert Beke

Photo:

a striking wrasse

10 cm) violet wrasse with six orange flank stripes the IndoPacific and the Red Sea where it forages on be quite aggressive and so is best kept singly and and damsels. Once established, six-line wrasse are troublesome flatworms and bristle worms

Rising from the Ashes

A Fish-Garage NZ story

I’m Maxine, FNZAS president and secretary for Upper Hutt Aquarium Society, and in December 2016 the worst thing that could happen to any fish keeper happened to me.

I had a large collection of fish tanks and all sorts kept in my detached garage; well, that was until tragedy struck and my dryer caught fire. I still remember waking up at 5am thinking, what is that crackling sound? Then in my dazed state thinking; hmm weird glow outside and smell… you probably could hear my brain ticking over if you were in the same room. I jumped up and ran to the French doors

to look outside only to see smoke billowing out of my garage. Well, I was not asleep or dazed anymore, and I sprung into action, on the phone to the Fire Brigade, while opening up the door, hose in hand and at the ready – yes I know! Why did I go in? I will never know… but I did.

I saw the flames licking out of the dryer to the end of the barbeque, but what made me move was the flames were licking at the gas cylinder which was a mere half meter away from the dryer. Let’s just say I was my family joke that Christmas – Maxine Smash! Was the joke as I pulled the barbie

through the (already burnt and falling to bits) front wall, missing the door completely. Maxine Smash!

By the time the Fire Brigade got there I had mostly put the fire out. Don’t you worry, I got told off by the Fire Chief and I’m not saying it was a little telling off, he growled at me like a parent growls at you. I will never run into a fire again. I’m glad I was a part of the Upper Hutt Aquarium Society at the time, as I put out a call to help.

The garage was toast (literally speaking) but my makeshift fish room was relatively okay, thanks to the flames going up the wall and over the top of everything. Tanks were mostly full of water but cables and airlines had melted with the heat and the power had to be isolated and turned off. There was a thick covering of soot and smoke over everything. Not a single fish perished but I had to rehome everything. Club members from all across Wellington came and checked on me, helped me

catch fish and then took them home to be looked after. This part was the worst, not a single fish was left in my care. But, in order to grow we have to sometimes start again… The rebuild started in 2017 and a new, shiny garage was built in its place. Then came the master plan - the fish-garage rebuild! I had help, I would not have been able to rebuild without it. Members

helped me put up walls and family and friends helped me put in pink batts after the grueling hard task of lining each individual wall section with builders’ paper (I’m not joking we really should have put it in during the garage rebuild). Plaster and paint went in after the sparky worked his magic. Oh, but those club members didn’t get off light handed. We planned a working bee and installed tank stands and tanks built by a local

tank builder. I had killifish tanks, a betta barracks and so many grow out tanks. I remember how many people it took to lift that 1000l tank into place. I’m pretty sure it almost did not make it to its stand. I think it will stay where it is forever.

Today the fish-garage has expanded even more as my partner moved from Auckland and brought his fish room down to add to mine. We are always thinking

of how we can expand and make things better (why I didn’t plan auto water changes in my rebuild, I will never know). We have multiple species of killifish, lines of fancy guppies, and too many Betta to count. We have no room for any more monster fish rescues as the 1000l filled up quickly with its newest edition - a 25 plus cm Cigar Shark.

We welcome visitors of all fish keeping levels. We talk with people

about having this many tanks, how the hobby has helped us, and how important the club is. After all, they helped me at my lowest fish keeping point.

Thanks Team I’m forever grateful!

Maxine Lynch

Cultivate mealworms

Mealworms are the larval stage of a black beetle (Tenebrio molitor) that is considered a pest as they commonly infest grain storage facilities, but they are an excellent live food for reptiles, fish, birds, and small insectivorous animals. Most pet shops stock them or they are easy and inexpensive to culture yourself supplying year-round food for your pets. As it can take a few months to establish good numbers from breeding, ensure that you start with enough to feed out as well as to breed from.

The life cycle of the mealworm beetle starts with an egg which hatches into a larva, commonly known as a mealworm, and these feed on grain. After growing and moulting their exoskeleton several times the larvae transform into yellowy brown pupae which

by Mark Paterson

Mealworm larva

Photo: AJC1

can’t eat or move much. After about 3 weeks the pupae metamorphose into beetles. At first the beetle is whitish with a soft shell

Photo: AJC1

Mealworm pupa

which then darkens and hardens to dark brown/black after about 2–7 days. Mealworm beetles reproduce for a few months before dying. The duration of the life cycle is affected by the temperature they are kept at, while the optimum is around 20–25°C any cooler than that they slow down and hotter they can become sterile.

Housing to keep them just requires a container that is not airtight. Cardboard or polystyrene boxes are no good as the worms will chew through them. Mealworms have been in the news recently as they have microbes in their guts which allow them to digest polystyrene. I use plastic or glass as

Mealworms in a container of bran

they can easily climb out of a wooden box. Half fill the container with bran (at least 50 to 75mm). Cornmeal, oatmeal, or bran meal will all work. Then place a small culture of mealworms on top of the bran, add a couple of slices of carrot or raw potato and cover with a piece of cloth or a folded-up sheet of newspaper as larvae will accumulate in this making them easier to collect. It is important to not allow the culture to get damp as it can sour quickly and kill off the worms. When feeding out remember the larger the worm generally the harder its outside surface is. Just after each moult they are white and soft so are at their most digestible.

Mealworm beetle

Photo: Didier Descouens

Photo: Richard Chambers

Having a clear container will let you see how much frass (waste) has accumulated so you can get an idea of when to change the bran. If the container doesn’t have a ventilated lid, drill holes in the plastic cover. If condensation forms on the inside of the lid, you need more holes. Good ventilation helps prevent mould growth and keeps the chance of a mite infestation low. Mites are tiny whitish eightlegged arachnids that look like sawdust. They can’t fly and they can come into your culture with your bran or with mealworms and are usually associated with excessive moisture in the box. Mites are rapid breeders and once they infect a colony it is best to start over. Give things a good clean out and look at putting a fine mesh screen top on the containers to protect the colonies from any further invasions.

Two continer breeding setup

Photo: Mark Paterson

I use two or more containers: a top one with a mesh floor for the beetles, this allows any eggs laid by the beetles to fall through into a lower container which contains bran for hatching worms to feed on. I do this as the beetles can eat their eggs. Once I see small worms appearing in the lower container I move the adults to a new set up I have got ready.

Like pretty much all living things, mealworms produce waste which builds up over time so keep your mealworm colony clean and healthy by removing any dried-out bits of vegetable and fruit and any dead mealworms or beetles. As the worms grow they shed their exoskeleton, and these can build up on

the surface of the colony. I remove these by using a vacuum cleaner and holding it about 5 to 10 cm above the surface.

If the set up starts to smell I usually sieve out all worms and move them to a new container with Bran. This allows me to disinfect the container and ready it for another round. I use a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water to wash the container and then leave it to dry before reusing it.

Mealworms can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 8 weeks. This will slow them down from developing and keep them for feeding later. Any mealworms left in the container will mature and become pupae, then beetles,

so continue moving beetles to another container as they mature.

Reptiles

Remember mealworms are only as good a food for your animals to eat as the food that you feed them. If you are growing mealworms to feed to reptiles it can be worth adding extra supplements to make the mealworms fatter and healthier before feeding. Sprinkle supplements into the bedding or directly on the fruit used in the breeding container. Examples of supplements are calcium or mineral supplements, finely ground eggshell, wheat germ, whole wheat flour, and dry brewer's yeast (provides proteins).

You can add slight moisture to the mealworms diet by placing thinly sliced

Adult container with mesh for eggs to fall through

Photo: Mark Paterson

vegetables or fruit such as potatoes, apples, or carrots on top of the bran. This will also help make the worms healthier for your reptiles via gut loading. Mealworms can be gut loaded by dusting them with calcium or vitamin supplements before feeding out and this is recommended at least once a week. Variety is essential in any animals diet so other insects, such as crickets, locusts, soldier fly larvae or waxworms should be added to your reptiles diet even if your reptile prefers eating mealworms. If you worry your reptile isn’t getting enough nutrients, it may be a good idea to consult with your reptile vet and get his/her opinion.

Mark Paterson

References: Mealworm - Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mealworm

Above right - young bearded dragon eating mealworms

Right - pages describing the Yellow Meal-Worm from the chapter on Insects Affecting Dry Vegitable Foods by F. H. Chittenden, The Principal Household Insects of the United States, Bulletin No.4 1896, New series. U.S. Department of Agriculture. Division of Entomology. Scan: Biodiversity Heritage Library

FISH MINI PROFILE

Half banded khuli loach

The half banded kuhli loach (Pangio semicincta) is an attractive long (to 10 cm) slender loach from Peninsula Malaysia where it is found in shallow, slow flowing, waterways such as forest streams. They are often misidentified as other similar looking Pangio species. Kuhli loaches are best kept in groups in dimly lit, well-established tanks with plenty of cover (bog wood, plants and, ideally, leaf litter) and a sandy substrate, as they like to burrow. They should be offered a varied diet including good quality flake and small sinking pellets but also live and frozen food such as Daphnia, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp and bloodworms

Photo Robert Beke

Photo: Mark Paterson

Feathery leaved aquatic plants

by Melanie Newfield

Among my favourite plants to grow in my tanks is ambulia (Limnophilia sessiliflora). I love the way that the lime green-coloured foliage brightens the background of my aquascapes. Native to eastern and south-east Asia, ambulia thrives in a range of conditions.

Ambulia is distinctive among the aquarium plants commonly sold, but there are some similar-looking species found in New Zealand. Two of the species that are superficially similar to ambulia are banned from sale, propagation and distribution, so it is worth learning how to tell them apart.

Ambulia has leaves which are mostly shaped like a feather, with a central spine and threadlike segments along this spine. However, if you look closely at submersed leaves, you’ll see that a few of the segments are branched. This distinguishes ambulia from species of

milfoil (Myriophyllum) where the segments never branch (I talked about milfoils in a previous issue). In ambulia, the leaves are arranged in clusters at regular intervals along the stem.

Like many aquatic plants, ambulia also has emersed leaves, growing out of the water. These are smaller, thicker and less branched. In my tanks, emersed ambulia regularly flowers. The flowers are pink and white, and about 1 cm long.

One species which could be mistaken for ambulia is cabomba (Cabomba caroliniana).

right - ambulia inset - cross section showing clusters and branching leaves Photos: Melanie Newfield

Water buttercup Ranunculus trichophyllus Photo: Trevor James

This is a species native to the Americas which has gone wild in a number of other countries, including Australia, where it causes serious problems. The leaves of cabomba are fanshaped, with a branching pattern which resembles the way a river and its tributaries look on a map. These leaves occur in pairs along the stem.

Because it is a serious invasive species in areas with similar climates to New Zealand, cabomba is prohibited from sale, propagation and distribution in New Zealand and a number of other countries.

Another species which could be mistaken for ambulia is hornwort (Ceratophyllum

demersum). Hornwort also has clusters of leaves at regular intervals along the stem, but the leaves do not have a feather-shaped branching pattern of ambulia. Instead, the leaf branching pattern is more like the antlers of a deer. The leaves also have small spines on them. To handle, hornwort feels rough, not soft and smooth like the other species.

Hornwort is one of the worst aquatic weeds in New Zealand. It clogs up hydroelectricity production and irrigation systems. It is only known from the North Island (some populations in the South Island have been

Cabomba carolina

Photo: Trevor James

eradicated). If it got into the hydroelectricity lakes in the South Island, it could cause serious problems as it does in the Waikato hydroelectricity lakes. For this reason, hornwort is banned from sale, propagation and distribution in New Zealand.1

There’s one more species which is wild in New Zealand and could be confused with ambulia. This is the water buttercup (Ranunculus trichophyllus). The leaves of water buttercup have the same branching pattern as cabomba, like a river and streams. However, the leaves of water buttercup occur

singly along the stems, instead of in pairs like cabomba.

Although water buttercup is reasonably common, I’ve never heard of it causing serious problems.

In New Zealand, cabomba is recognised as a potential invasive species and is illegal to sell, propagate and distribute.

Unlike the other species I’ve talked about here, ambulia has never been reported from the wild in New Zealand. Does this mean it won’t become a weed in future?

That’s not an easy question to answer. There is some evidence that ambulia is causing problems overseas, mostly in warmer parts of the USA, such as Florida. So far, the areas where is it causing problems are warmer than in New Zealand. However, a study from the US Department of Agriculture2 suggests that it could become invasive in areas that are colder, so there is some risk to New Zealand. But there’s one thing that could stop ambulia becoming a problem. Growing in a fish tank, there’s no way it can get into New Zealand’s waterways unless someone puts it there. That’s how all our most serious aquatic plants have escaped – from people tipping their fish tanks into waterways. It’s an important reminder that if you no longer want your aquatic plants, do our environment a favour and dump them in the compost instead of the nearest stream.

References

1 https://apps.mpi.govt.nz/applications/nzpests-view/ Article/1006/Hornwort

2 https://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant_health/plant_pest_ info/weeds/downloads/wra/limnophila-sessiliflora.pdf

Melanie Newfield

Ceratophyllum demersum

Photo: Trevor James

INTERESTING IMPORTS

For those new to fish keeping, a tropical community tank is a great option. You don’t need a large tank and there is an impressive range of small, peaceful, and often colourful species, on offer from the importers. Most are schooling species and are best kept in groups of at least 6 fish. Your local fish store is sure to have a selection to suit most tastes. Livebearers are a good beginner’s fish. They are easy to keep and breed and come in an impressive range of colours and varieties. Male guppies are available

in a great range of strains including blue lyretail, koi tuxedo, metallic rainbow, and platinum flora. Platy varieties include bumblebee, calico, Mickey Mouse/moon, tuxedo, wagtail (wag), and hifins, while their longer-tailed relatives, the sword tails are available in black, gold wag, red and white, red eye koi, tuxedo, and red. Molly varieties include black marble, dalmatian, gold, red leopard, and lyretail saffron.

On the tetra front you are spoilt for choice with about 30 species of small

Red eye koi swordtail

Photo: Robert Beke

Forktail Rainbowfish - Pseudomugil furcatus

Photo: Dirk Godlinski

Harlequin rasbora

Photo: Robert Beke

tetras available, while other great options include pencil fish (red Beckford’s and tricolour are available), danios (Burmese and pearl), rasboras (emerald dwarf, emerald eye, harlequins), and small rainbows/blue-eyes (forktail and Gertrude’s).

If you are after a small peaceful bottom dweller, it is hard to go past a cory and the importers continue to offer an impressive selection. There are the ever-popular albino bronze, bronze, peppered, emerald green, panda, sterbai, and pygmy corys,

and if you are after something different then why not try an Axelrod, black sail (C. melanistius), false bandit (C. melini ), gold lazer, or Venezuelan cory.

And if the Apistogramma article has got you interested: Agassiz's dwarf cichlid A. agassizii is available in red and ‘gold’ fire red varieties, Cockatoo dwarf cichlid A. cacuatoides in orange and double red, and the three-striped dwarf cichlid A. trifasciata is also available.

The editorial team

pygmy corydoras - C habrosus

Photo: Robert Beke

Red Beckford's pencilfish

Photo: Robert Beke

Aquarium

Apistogramma agassizi - 'gold' fire red

Photo: Robert Beke

IMAGE SOURCES

Pg Source

1 Female mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus photo Roy L Caldwell public domain, https://www.nsf.gov/news/mmg/mmg_disp. jsp?med_id=62726&from=

10 Close up of mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus eyes by Cédric Peneau (CC BY SA 4.0),https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/ File:Odontodactylus_scyllarus_eyes.jpg

11 Peacock mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus showing club like raptorial claws Photo: Prilfish (CC BY 2.0), https://www.flickr.com/ photos/37707866@N00/2276197031

14 Peakcock mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus Photo: Charlene McBride (CC BY 2.0), https://www.flickr.com/photos/ ursonate/4481222867

15 Peakcock mantis shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus Photo: François Libert (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0), https://www.flickr.com/photos/ zsispeo/49967881121

19 Apistogramma agassizii 'Rio Tefé' Photo: ©Mike Impos all rights reserved

34 Mealworm larva Tenebrio molitor by AJC1 (CC BY-SA 2.0), https://www.flickr.com/photos/ajc1/16688250746

34 Mealworm pupa, Tenebrio molitor by AJC1 (CC BY-NC 2.0), https://www.flickr.com/photos/ajc1/16712886741

35 Mealworm beetle Tenebrio molitor by Didier Descouens (CC BY-SA 4.0), https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Tenebrio_molitor_ MHNT_Fronton.jpg

35 Mealworms in plastic container of bran by Richard Chambers (CC BY-SA 4.0), https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mealworms_ in_plastic_container_of_bran.jpg

39 The Yellow Meal-Worm, H. Chittenden, The Principal Household Insects of the United States, Bulletin No.4 1896, https://www. biodiversitylibrary.org/page/41941517

44 Pseudomugil furcatus ©Dirk Godlinski (CC-BY-SA-3.0), https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/84/Pseudomugil_ furcatus_m_Aquarium_DG.jpg

The Federation of New Zealand Aquatic Societies is a group of aquarists dedicated to supporting and promoting fishkeeping as a hobby, both in our local communities and globally with regard to conservation of aquatic species and their environments. The organisation is dedicated to the improvement of the aquarium and fishkeeping hobby and it has a 60 year history of representing aquarium societies in New Zealand.

Current affiliated aquarium clubs in New Zealand:

DUNEDIN AQUARIUM AND POND SOCIETY

CONTACT: Nic Smith dapsdunedin@gmail.com

HAWKE’S BAY AQUARIUM SOCIETY INCORPORATED

Contact: Chris Drake secretary@hbas.org.nz

MARLBOROUGH AQUARIUM CLUB

Contact: Caryl Simpson caryl@simtronics.co.nz

UPPER HUTT AQUARIUM SOCIETY

Contact: Maxine Lynch uhaquariumsociety@gmail.com

WAIKATO AQUARIUM SOCIETY

Contact: Paul Willard waikatoaquariumsociety@gmail.com

Online Clubs

NEW ZEALAND REEFKEEPERS

Contact via: https://www.facebook.com/groups/nzreefkeepers/

NEW ZEALAND REPTILE AND AMPHIBIAN SOCIETY

Contact via: https://www.facebook.com/groups/NZRAS/

FNZAS DISCOUNT

The following businesses offer discounts to our members, remember to ask politely, this is a privilege not a right. You must show your current FNZAS Membersip card at the time of purchase.

AUCKLAND

Hollywood Fish Farm - 10% discount on selected non-sale items 36 Frost Rd. Mt. Roskill Ph 09 620 5249

10/2 Tawa Drive, Albany Ph 09 415 4157 www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz

The Bird Barn - 10% discount on fish and accessories 158 Lincoln Rd. Henderson. Ph 09 838 8748.

New Pupuke Aquarium Centre - 10% Discount 1 Lydia Ave, Birkenhead Ph 09 480 6846

GISBORNE

Eastland Aquariums - 10% discount as well as great in-store specials. 132 Grey St, Gisborne Ph/Fax 06 868 6760

HAMILTON

Hollywood Fish Farm - 10% discount on selected non-sale items 90 Greenwood Street, Frankton, Hamilton Ph: 07 212 5570 www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz email: hamilton@hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz

Pure Aquatics - 10% discount on everything. 966 Heaphy Tce. Hamilton. Ph: 07 855 2176

HAWERA

Wholesale & Industrial Supplies - trade price, equating between 15 - 40% off retail prices 49 Glover Rd, Hawera Ph 06 278 7525

MORRINSVILLE

Demitry Pet Supplies - 10% Discount

142 Whitaker Street, Te Aroha. Ph 07 8897789 www.demitry.co.nz email: demitryfish@gmail.com

NELSON

The Fishroom

www.thefishroom.co.nz

Email: getfish@thefishroom.co.nz

ROTORUA

Wonderworld Aquarium and Pet Centre - 10% discount 82 - 84 Clayton Road, Rotorua Ph: 07 348 0328 Email: info@wonderworldpetcentre.co.nz

TAURANGA

KiwiPetz - 10% discount Shop T30, Fraser Cove Shopping Centre, Tauranga Ph 07 578 8623 email kiwipetz@xtra.co.nz

Carine Garden Centre & Water World - 10% discount on fish, fish related products & aquatic plants

Cnr SH2 & Te Karaka Drive, Te Puna Ph. 07 552 4949 www.carine.co.nz

WELLINGTON (and Greater Wellington area)

The Pet Centre - 10% discount on all fish and aquatic products

Lower Hutt - 28 Rutherford Street, Lower Hutt 5010, 04 569 8861

Upper Hutt - 82 Queen Street, Upper Hutt 5018, 04 9745473

Lyall Bay - 117 Tirangi Road, Rongotai 6022, 04 282 1242 Online @ www.thepetcentre.co.nz

Free shipping with orders over $30 + fish club discount still applies