Aquarium World volume 69 issue 1 2024

EDITOR

Darren Stevens editor@fnzas.org.nz

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Mark Paterson

COPY EDITOR

Caryl Simpson

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR

Diane Wilkie diane@scratchmedia.co.nz

Aquarium World Magazine is published biannually by the Federation of New Zealand Aquatic Societies Incorporated (FNZAS)

ISSN 2815-7435

Copyright ©FNZAS, no part of this publication may be reproduced, or transmitted in any form, or by means electronic, mechanical or otherwise without written permission

FRONT COVER Guppys under Indian Fern Poecilia reticulata and Ceratopteris

Photo: Pei-Chi Lin

Anubias by Darren Stevens and Mike Gopperth

FISH PROFILE - My Tanganykian Reef by Andrew Coffey

A Blooming Beauty - Nymphaea species

TECHNICAL - Tissue Cultured Aquatic Plants by Darren Stevens 30 REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS - Bioactive Reptile Setup by Mark Paterson

33 MINI PLANT PROFILE - Windelov Java Fern

PLANT PROFILE - Nepenthes the tropical pitcher plants by Darren Stevens 38 PLANT PROFILE - Indian Fern - Ceratopteris by Melanie Newfield

SHOP TOUR - Fintastic Studio by Maxine Lynch

INTERESTING IMPORTS by the Editorial Team

www.fnzas.org.nz

Welcome to a new Aquarium World issue. In this issue we feature aquatic plants.

For many years New Zealand has had a limited range of tropical aquatic plants. However, this has all changed recently with the importation of tissue cultured aquatic plants. In our current imports article, we feature a few impressive imports and some local classics.

Anubias are striking aquatic plants that have long been a personal favorite. In this issue Mike Gopperth and I profile the species and varieties that we believe are in New Zealand.

Melanie Newfield continues her excellent aquatic plant series, this time featuring Indian fern or water sprite, a great beginners' plant.

Maxine lynch profiles Fintastic Studio, an impressive new Auckland aquatic pet store that is well worth visiting.

And finally for fish fans, Andrew Coffey shares the evolution of his impressive Lake Tanganyika reef tank.

Darren Stevens FNZAS Editor

Anubias b nana Ice

Photo: Darren Stevens

OPEN 7

9:30AM - 5:30PM

Mike Gopperth

Mike has been an enthusiastic fish keeper and aquatic plant grower for over 30 years, including 10 years spent in the industry working in an ornamental import facility, a commercial aquatic plant growing operation and in retail. He has a fishroom with around 25 tanks amounting to some 4000 litres. His particular interests are biotope tanks, plecos and aquatic plants both local and exotic

Andrew can’t remember a time as a child that he wasn’t keeping tadpoles, frogs and fish from local ponds There have been times in his life that he has been in remission but he freely accepts that he has been afflicted by ‘MTS’ for the best part of 30 years. In the past he has kept and bred a variety of Plecos, African cichlids, and rainbow fish. Currently he is keeping and breeding Tanganyikan cichlids, Victorian haps and is trying his luck with apistogrammas and various oddballs.

Maxine has been a fish keeper for most of her life, with a passion to continue killifish strains in New Zealand, to ensure that as many varieties of this beautiful species are available to future fish keepers. With a passion for nano fish, most of her fish-garage is made up of tanks of less than 200L, with the exception of a 1000L tank that was put in for rescues. Maxine is a public servant and has held various roles in her time in the FNZAS.

Mark began fish keeping when he was a child, keeping live bearers and Siamese fighters. He has worked for circus and zoo parks in NZ and overseas. For the last 28 years he has kept many species of aquatic life but NZ local marine is his keenest interest. Mark loves to share this passion & knowledge with fellow hobbyists and is currently running the marine systems at a local university.

Darren Stevens

Darren is a marine biologist who has worked for NIWA for about 20 years. He regularly participates in research surveys and has been around much of New Zealand as well as Oman, UAE, and the Ross Sea, Antarctica. In his spare time he enjoys fishing, and is a particularly passionate pleco keeper. Darren is an active participant in his local clubs and FNZAS Editor.

Melanie returned to fish keeping last year after a 25 year break. She originally studied botany and is as keen on plants as well as fish. Her tanks are mainly planted, aquascaped community tanks. She also has a lifelong interest in invasive species, especially invasive plants.

Advertising for the Aquarium World magazine and the Aquarium World website is managed by the FNZAS and can be arranged by emailing: advertising@fnzas.org.nz

Accounts: Patricia Lynch treasurer@fnzas.org.nz

Caryl Simpson caryl@simtronics.co.nz

Melanie Newfield

Anubias

We have long been fans of Anubias. There is something about their robust, deep green leaves and creeping rhizome (a horizontal stem) that add a distinctly tropical feel to your tank.

by Darren Stevens and Mike Gopperth

Anubias b. nana

Photo: ©Tropica

Anubias are aquatic and semi-aquatic flowering plants from tropical western and central Africa. They are members of the arum family (Araceae) and are distantly related to peace, arum, and calla lilies, and have similar flowers. The genus is named after the Egyptian god of the afterlife

Anubis as they are often found growing in shaded areas with only dappled light, such as the banks of streams or rivers, marshy areas under the canopy, or in shallow slow flowing water. There are about 8 species of Anubias, separated mainly by their inflorescences (a cluster of flowers), a few varieties, and many artificially selected cultivars. They range in size from the numerous small cultivars of Anubias b. nana to relatively large species like A. b. barteri or A. b. glabra (AKA A. minima), to large species like A. gigantea, which can have leaves (stem plus the leaf blade) over a metre in length.

They are slow growing, hardy and versatile and a popular choice in tropical (22–28°C) planted aquaria. They can tolerate a wide range of water parameters (a pH of 6.0–7.5) including brackish water or alkaline rift lake cichlid tanks and their tough leathery leaves mean they are generally not eaten by fish. They are also a great low risk choice for your aquarium as they are not weedy and unlikely to be invasive.

Anubias are generally thought to prefer low light levels, however, they will do well in a range of lighting but they have fewer algae issues if grown in shaded and/or lower light conditions. Variegated Anubias need higher light levels to thrive and to produce variegated leaves. As with most aquatic plants, they prefer clean well-oxygenated water with low levels of organic waste.

Anubis represented as a jackal (left) and a man with a canine head (right) Photos: Jon Bodsworth

Anubias can be attached (tied, cable tied, or glued – make sure the glue is aquarium safe) to hardscape (e.g., wood or rocks) to create attractive plantings in the water column or allowed to slowly creep along the substrate. Just don’t bury the rhizome as it will likely rot, and they will root deeply into the substrate which makes them difficult to move.

In the wild Anubias often grow emersed, however some (e.g., the Anubias barteri varieties), but not all, Anubias species will do well submerged. Commercially grown plants are typically grown emersed and their leaves are generally significantly larger, and a slightly different shape and texture to submerged plants, and they may take a while to transition to submerged growth.

Right - submerged A. b. nana inflorescence

Photo: Eric Heupel

Below right - submerged A. b. glabra inflorescence

Photo: Mike Gopperth

Below - submerged A. b. barteri inflorescence

Photo: Tomas Čekanavičius

If your Anubias is doing well emersed or submerged, it might flower for you. Each inflorescence is white or yellowish and consists of spadix (a central fleshy stem bearing small flowers) enclosed by a spathe (a modified leaf). If grown emersed you can try pollinating the flowers, and if successful growing them from seed, although this is a slow process. There are great videos online showing you how to do this. Anubias are much more easily propagated by dividing the rhizome into sections, ideally with at least three leaves and a good root network.

The following are the Anubias cultivars that we believe are found in New Zealand. However, they are difficult to identify as many varieties are similar and highly variable, there are several synonyms (an older scientific name that is no longer valid), and some taxa have been sold under an incorrect name for many years. For example, Anubias minima is a synonym of Anubias barteri var. glabra, and overseas Anubias barteri var. angustifolia is often sold as Anubias afzelii. There are also likely to be rare cultivars in New Zealand that we are not aware of. For example, there is some evidence that Anubias hastifolia is here.

With the recent importation of tissuecultured aquatic plants to New Zealand from Tropica, 2hr Aquarist, Aqua Design Amano

(ADA), and Aquatic Farmer, new Anubias cultivars are likely to be imported.

Anubias ‘afzelii’

A large species with long, relatively broad leaf blades that can grow to 35 cm long and 13 cm wide, and a more upright growth habit than many Anubias. Overseas, Anubias barteri var. angustifolia is often sold as A. afzelii. We are not certain of the identity of New Zealand Anubias ‘afzelii’ although apparently A. b. var. angustifolia has narrower leaves and reddish-brown leaf stalks. A. b. var. glabra (AKA A. minima) is sometimes sold as A. ‘afzelli’ but it has narrower, generally darker coloured leaves.

Anubias ‘afzelii’ emersed

Photos: Darren Stevens, inset: Mike Gopperth

Anubias barteri var. barteri

A large, highly variable, variety of A. barteri which can grow from 25-45 cm tall with a

leaf blade of about 10 cm. Compared to many other varieties it tends to grow more upwards rather than creeping horizontally.

A. b. barteri ‘broad leaf’

A beautiful cultivar of A. b. barteri with much larger leaves (almost double the size).

Below - Anubias barteri 'broad leaf'

Photos: Darren Stevens inset Hollywood Fish Farm

Above and right - Anubias barteri var. barteri

Photos: left - Darren Stevens right - Mike Gopperth

A. b. barteri ‘golden coin’

A striking cultivar of A. b. barteri with distinctive gold tinted round (coin-shaped) leaves that can grow up to 8 cm.

Anubias barteri var. coffeefolia

A beautiful variety with leaves that arch strongly between the leaf ribs and new leaves that are chocolate brown (they turn green as they grow larger). It is low cultivar that can grow to 15–25 cm.

Anubias barteri var. glabra (AKA

Anubias minima)

A highly variable variety. The cultivar in New Zealand has long, narrow, often dark green leaves with a slightly ruffled edge. A. b. glabra leaf blades can grow up to 30 cm long and the stalks are 0.5–1.5 times the length of the blade. It is sometimes sold as A.‘afzelli’ which has broader generally lighter coloured leaves.

Anubias barteri var. nana

The most popular variety of Anubias and an aquascaping classic. Its small size (leaves to c. 8 cm) means it is suitable for most aquaria and the smaller cultivars (e.g., ‘petite’ and ‘mini coin’) are great options for nano tanks.

Anubias b. barteri ‘golden coin’ emersed

Photo: Darren Stevens

Anubias b. glabra emersed

Photo: Darren Stevens

Anubias b. coffeefolia

Photo: ©Tropica

Anubias b. nana

Photo: ©Tropica

A. b. nana ‘gold’

A striking gold cultivar of A. b. nana that has been in New Zealand for many years. It was very rare but tissue cultured plants

are now commonly available. It may require strong lighting to retain its vibrant colour as the new tissue culture imports are already starting to fade (first two images were taken three months apart), and the old New Zealand cultivar is now very pale (last image).

A. b. nana ‘petite’

A small variety of A. b. nana (emersed leaf blades to c. 3 cm, submerged to c. 1.5 cm) that was originally cultivated at the Oriental Aquarium plant nursery in Singapore. It was relatively rare in New Zealand until the recent tissue cultured imports. It is often confused with standard A. b. nana.

A. b. nana ‘mini coin’

A beautiful new cultivar of A. b. nana with tiny round leaves (generally less than 1 cm) that was developed at the Tropica nursey in Denmark. It branches readily, forming dense cushions of deep green small round leaves.

Left & centre - Anubias b. nana ‘gold’ emersed

Photos: Darren Stevens

Right - Anubias b. nana ‘gold’ submerged

Photo: Jennifer Hamlin

Anubias b. nana ‘petite’

Photo: Darren Stevens

Anubias b. nana ‘mini coin’ submerged

Photo: ©Tropica

variegated Anubias

New Zealand once had variegated strains of A. b. nana, A. b. barteri, and A. barteri var. glabra (AKA A. minima). We still have these varieties, but over many years they have lost their variegation and now rarely, if ever, produce variegated leaves.

Fortunately, a few variegated Anubias nana tissue culture cultivars are being imported. These heavily variegated strains are more delicate (generally the more variegated they are the more difficult they are to grow), grow more slowly than standard green

cultivars, and require stronger lighting to maintain variegated leaves.

A.

b. nana ‘ice’

A beautiful cultivar with smaller leaves, each with a unique pattern of off-white variegations and light to dark green patches. No two leaves or plants have the same patterning. Some plants are heavily variegated, while other plants have little variegation and are much greener.

A. b. nana ‘pinto’

A variegated classic with intricate leaf patterns of off-white, light green, and dark green. Under some conditions it may produce all green leaves.

A. b. nana ‘petite snow flake’

A stunning variety of petite anubias with very small leaves (up to 1.5 cm but generally smaller) covered with intricate off-white variegation and veins that are partially green.

Left - Anubias b. nana ‘variegated’ submersed

Right - A. b. glabra with a variegated leaf

Photos: Jennifer Hamlin & Mike Gopperth

Anubias b. nana ‘ice’

Photo: Darren Stevens

Anubias b. nana ‘petite snow flake’

Photo: Darren Stevens

Anubias b. nana ‘pinto’

Photo: ©Tropica

A. b. nana ‘petite snow white’

A beautiful small leafed variety that is very similar to ‘petite snow flake’. Overseas it is also sold as ‘snow king’ or ‘white ghost’. New leaves are almost white, while older leaves may be slightly greenish. The leaf blades may grow to 1.5 cm long but are usually smaller.

Anubias b. nana ‘‘petite snow white’’

©2hr Aquarist NZ

Anubias gigantea

A very large Anubias species that is rarely seen in New Zealand – its large size precluding it from all but the largest set

ups. It has long stems (up to 83 cm) and large arrow shaped leaves (to 30 long and 14 cm wide). It is a semiaquatic species and does not thrive when fully submerged.

We thank Tropica, 2hr Aquarist NZ, and Hollywood Fish Farm for allowing us to use their images.

References: Dodge, A. (2015). Anubias plant profile. Aquarium World 61 (2): 38–41.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anubias https://www.flowgrow.de/db/aquaticplants/anubias-afzelii https://www.aquariumnexus.com/anubias-plant/ Anubias Species: Comparing Types and Care Requirements (meethepet.com)

Anubias Aquarium Plants — Buce Plant Clayton, J., Reeves, P., Champion, P., and Edwards, T (2023). Plant Identification Guide: Low-risk aquarium and pond plants.

to R - A. b.

A. b. afzelii, A. b. barteri, A. b. nana, A. b. nana 'golden'

Anubias gigantea Photo: Simon Check

L

glabra,

Photo: Mike Gopperth

Photo:

My Tanganyikan Reef

A story of a tank

"I love

keeping

cichlids. I

enjoy their intelligence and their parenting behaviour. I like the way they interact within their own species and the social dynamic between species in the same tank."

Andrew Coffey

I keep New world and Old world cichlid species but I had never really kept Lake Tanganyikan fish successfully. I had only kept them as single fish in other African tanks. The main reason was I just didn’t have a big enough tank. Species like tropheus and frontosa require big tanks of at least 1.5 metres (5 ft) and my fish room doesn’t have the space. Or to be more specific, I have made a rule that 4-foot (1.2 m) tanks are the biggest I will have in my fish room.

In late 2020 I happened to see some Julidochromis dickfeldi on Trade Me, a species not commonly seen in New Zealand. Julidochromis are a genus of cichlid endemic to Lake Tanganyika and a fish I had always wanted to keep. There are about six described species of ‘Julies’ with 3 or 4 of them found occasionally in New Zealand. Unlike frontosa and tropheus, they are a dwarf cichlid that inhabits the rocky shore of the lake, so they were a great candidate for my 4ft

In fact, the oldest tank in my fishroom is a well-loved 4-foot tank that is nearly 25 years old. She is showing the signs of wear and tear with scratches and the doors on the stand don’t shut properly. For the best part of 10 years (2010 - 2020), it was home to a community of rainbowfish and barbs, but as fish keepers are prone to do, I was looking for something new and fresh.

tank. I duly bought 2 young adults not really knowing their sex but taking a punt and picking two fish that potentially could be a pair based on what I had read. I had already done some ‘scaping’. Basically, it was 2 piles of rocks at either end of the tank with an open area in the middle of the tank, and the Julies quickly decided to claim the pile of rocks on the left side of the tank.

my rainbow tank

At the time of buying the dickfeldi, I made a rather impetuous decision to buy the 3 adult Neolamprologus tretocephalus the seller was also offering. The ‘5 bar tret’ is another gorgeous Tanganyikan ‘dwarf’ cichlid that inhabits the same region of

the lake. The problem is that they are highly territorial and aggressive, especially to their own species. As it turned out, my trets were all male (the seller had never sexed them) and could not stand the sight of each other so I quickly rehomed two out of necessity, keeping a single male. In retrospect, a 4 foot tank is probably ok for a single tret or perhaps a pair but I would recommend at least a 1.8 m long tank to give these guys space, especially if you have more than two. As it turned out, my one guy settled into his home and without conspecific competition was fairly placid. I put in a big ceramic tunnel in the open area in the middle of the tank and he seemed happy to hang out in and around it, giving anything that came too close a fairly harmless ‘shoo off ’.

Julidochromis dickfeldi pair

Male 5-bar tret (Neolamprologus tretocephalus)

At the time of buying everything else I had also acquired a young group of Neolamprologus leleupi, a stunning little yellow/orange fish that suited the scape and were compatible with the other fish. But as they were a little smaller, I decided to grow them out in a small grow out tank. I am still unsure exactly what happened, but I came home one night to the sight of all the N. leleupi dead. I was devastated. Not being able to find replacements, and licking my wounds, I ended up getting a group of 8 young adult Neolamprologus brichardi. I had kept brichardi before and they are slightly more common than the tret or dickfeldi but my wallet was still hurting from the leleupi debacle and whether by good luck or good management they quickly

claimed the empty pile of rocks on the right hand side of the tank. All the fish settled in but spent much of their time hiding in amongst the piles of rocks so, for a brief time, I introduced some Buenos Aires tetras into the tank as dither fish. I think this gave the cichlids confidence and they started to swim in the open more frequently. After about 3 months my suspicions that the dickfeldi were a pair were confirmed when one day I saw a few tiny fry darting out of the rockwork at feeding time. In the three and a half years the tank has been running, those ‘few fry’ turned into many and my adult pair have produced hundreds of offspring. Every now and then I would break down their rock pile and collect the young to sell off.

Julidochromis dickfeldi fry

Both the dickfeldi and brichardi are ‘collective nursery’ breeders whereby sub adults help in the raising of new fry. A similar thing has happened with the brichardi. The original group of 8 reduced down to a dominant pair and they have bred multiple times and so there are a few generations in the tank.

Jumping forward to today. My old boy tret has gone. In the last year or so he steadily lost condition and I removed him into his own tank to live out the last of his days in a peace. I estimate him to be about 7 years when he died. He has been replaced by a young 5 bar who will have to earn his right to claim the prized ceramic cylinder. The dickfeldi pair still live in the same pile of rocks. The original pair are looking old but new young adults and young fry are ready to take on the mantle of keeping the group going. The same applies with the brichardi. The adult pair still guard their rock pile and fry. And from being the ‘second string’ substitute fish this pair are probably my favourite fish in the tank. The adult male is a glorious fish.

Neolamprologus brichardi fry

Male Neolamprologus brichardi

It’s crazy to think that in all this time both groups of fish have never really ventured into each other’s areas, but just stay in their territory happy to swim and live their life independent of their grumpy neighbours. I no longer collect

any of the fry and the introduction of an Altolamprologus compressiceps a few months ago ensures that fry numbers are kept in check. He/she is a dedicated reef predator.

I have recently discovered that crypts, a plant I have always struggled with, prefer good levels of GH and KH in the water so my recently introduced plants seem to be doing well although it is still early days.

In conclusion, I really enjoy this tank and it would be one of the most ‘balanced’ tanks I have. It definitely isn’t a ‘biotope’ but it certainly is harmonious. Ultimately my plan is to upgrade the tank itself but still adhering to my 4 foot long rule. The new tank will be both taller and deeper so I can continue to enjoy my little piece of a Lake Tanganyikan reef for a few more years to come.

Andrew Coffey

young male Neolamprologus tretocephalus

Altolamprologus compressiceps and Julidochromis dickfeldi

A BloomingBeauty

Water lilies (Nymphaea species) are cool, temperate to tropical aquatic plants with attractive round leaves and stunning, often fragrant, flowers that have been revered for centuries. There are about 60 species and many hybrids and cultivars. They are great pond plants but can also be grown in large aquaria or containers and provide shade and shelter for fish and amphibians. It is important you separate plants regularly as they grow into a very large mass which can be hard to divide, due to weight alone, when you need to remove some from your pond.

Photo: Caryl Simpson

Tissue cultured aquatic plants an aquascapers dream

The last couple of years has seen the introduction of tissue cultured aquatic plants into New Zealand - a significant achievement and credit needs to go to the importers who have made this possible. Quality tissue cultured plants are now available from Tropica, 2hr Aquarist, Aqua Design Amano (ADA), and Aquatic Farmer.

This has dramatically increased the range of aquatic plant cultivars available in New Zealand, and many plants that were formerly rare here are now readily available.

An exciting biproduct of plant tissue culture is that mutations are occasionally produced which may lead to new varieties of familiar favourites. Several striking new cultivars are now being imported including Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Mini coin’, Bacopa monnieri ‘Compact White’, Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Pink Panther', and Ludwigia palustris ‘Atlantis dark orange’.

For aquascapers and aquatic plant enthusiasts, the future of tissue cultured aquatic plants in New Zealand is exciting as new cultivars are developed and imported. Perhaps in the future species which are currently very rare in New Zealand such as Madagascar lace plant (Aponogeton madagasgarensis) or onion plant (Crinum species) may be able to be imported.

Darren Stevens

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Bioactive setup for reptiles

by Mark Paterson

A bioactive terrarium (or vivarium) is an environment for housing terrestrial animals that attempts to create a habitat to allow the animals to exhibit some of their natural behaviours. It usually includes a cleanup crew - populations of small invertebrates and microorganisms that consume and break down the waste produced by the larger inhabitants.

There are 3 basic types of setups: arid or desert, forest or jungle, and aquatic. One simple substrate can form the base of all with additions to help accommodate the different

environments while helping live plants provide more enrichment.

Arid set-up

Probably the easiest bioactive terrarium to start with is arid, which is most suited for bearded dragons (Pogona species) or leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius). These lizards are found in many different outdoor environments, but usually in a dry, warm, habitat so I try to achieve that while also keeping the humidity level in the enclosure in

Forest setup with background

Photo: Mark Paterson

mind. There are a few different ways to set one up and I will outline what has worked for me.

I sometimes use fake grass in a more sterile setup for convenience of cleaning. If I am dealing with an unwell animal or lots of youngsters, it is important to reduce the risk of bacterial infection.

I prefer to use all glass reptile enclosures but in the past, I have used MDF (Mediumdensity fibreboard) ones and applied 6 coats of polyurethane to seal the base from any possible water damage. However, while a glass base can be filled with water if needed for an aquatic set up, remember, it is a glass base when compacting the substrate.

I usually add a background which gives a more natural look. You can either make one (see Aquarium World 2021, vol 16(1), page 18) or purchase one and then add to the final aesthetics of the setup and allow climbing opportunities for the animals and insects. Just remember to not block any ventilation holes and to run any electrical wires over the background before you push it into its final position.

Once you have your background in place you can add your ‘dirt’ layer, which I usually create as a mix of 1 part soil, 2 parts sand, 2 parts peat or coconut coir and half a part of charcoal. Some people say that sand causes internal compaction and constipation and a lot of sand is basically indigestible but mixed with soil it becomes less of a potential problem, coupled up with good husbandry and no blockages.

You could use soil from your “spray free” garden, compost, or potting mix for substrate. If you are using a commercially

prepared product, ensure that there are no added fertilizers or minerals.

The ‘dirt’ layer creates the nutrient diversity and varying textures that create a healthy and welcoming substrate for plant and animal life. Usually at least 5 cm of substrate is needed which can allow the surface to dry out but the base to retain moisture for plants, or the cleanup crew to flourish.

The term clean-up crew comes from the detritivores you introduce that consume the faeces, shed skin, etc. of the larger inhabitants. To call it truly bioactive you need to add a combination of either slaters (woodlice), springtails, earthworms, millipedes, and various beetles. Different species are preferred in different habitatsthe Arid cleanup crew may be mealworms, darkling beetles, and slaters whereas the forest setup may be springtails, slaters, and earthworms. Ensure with insect eaters that there are plenty of hiding places for the cleanup crew. If you use soil from the garden or leaf litter, you have also introduced bacteria and other microorganisms which adds to the breakdown and consumption of wastes in the enclosure, allowing it to become more self-maintaining.

Growing plants is more of a challenge in the arid setup but growing them in shallow pots inserted into the substrate can allow frequent watering while also reducing the chance of raising the humidity too high. If you are doing this, swap out the soil in the pots for a DIY mix to remove fertilisers. For a desert style setup, I put a layer of fine orchid bark down first to allow any excess water to sit deep in the substrate. I then cover that with a bit of weed matting, or plastic insect screen, before adding the soil mix on top. Carex grasses,

succulents, bromeliads and pothos are frequently used, due to their hardiness and addition to the aesthetics of the enclosure. Before adding a plant, it is good to ensure that it is safe to eat as reptiles love to taste test everything. Growing them in pots allows you to swap out plants if they get beaten or eaten up by your reptiles.

Forest setup

The forest setup differs slightly from the arid setup and is more suited to keeping blue tongue skinks (Tiliqua species) in that you are adding a thicker layer of topping substrate, which allows the base layer to retain more moisture than the arid enclosure. This also allows your animals to burrow, and even sleep, in the substrate layer. I make a forest mix from: 2 parts soil, 1 part sand, 1 part peat or coconut coir, 1 part charcoal, 1 part sphagnum moss, and 2 parts of orchid bark.

Then I usually top this with at least 3cm of fine bark, leaf litter, cypress mulch, etc.

Aquatic setup

In an Aquatic setup a slightly different approach is used. Adding layers to the vivarium floor allows for a more natural bioactive action to occur. I start with a 2 - 3 cm drainage layer of gravel about 10mm in size, or those small, lightweight plastic pellets or balls sold commercially as filter material. This allows any excess water in the enclosure to drain down into this bottom layer, preventing oversaturation of the substrate layers above. A single layer of egg-crate, weed matting, or coir fibre material can be placed on top of the base layer to prevent any soil dropping through and clogging this layer and allow any microorganisms (cleanup crew) to pass through. Another way of creating the base layer is to use sheets of open pore sponge material that is usually available in small sheets in your local pet store. Again, cover with coir fibre or weed matting to ensure any soils are kept out of the bottom layer. Cut the sponge with an angled edge to help any newly morphed animals to climb out of the water.

You then add your ‘dirt’ layer (see above) and then add a top or capping layer of 2 - 5 cm of Sphagnum moss or leaf litter scraped from under established plants. This helps keep your amphibians skin away from the dirt layer, or you can use a mix of moss and leaf litter if desired.

Good luck with your setup and remember, you are creating a living home for the animals in your care while enriching their lives with a more natural environment.

Mark Paterson

Windeløv Java fern

Clean up crew

Isopods

Slaters or woodlice aren’t insects but actually crustaceans and they can be found in your garden wherever there is rotting wood. They will eat faeces, mould and fungi so are an excellent member of your clean-up crew.

Springtails

Springtails are probably the best bioactive cleaner crew for their size, they will eat faeces, dead insects and fungus. They are commonly found in bush or in the garden in leaf litter and vegetation, sometimes found floating on water.

Meal worms and Darkling beetles

Although you breed these to feed your reptiles, they are excellent cleaners as the larval worm stage chew and ingest wood, faeces, vegetation and other dead cleaner insects. They also provide entertainment if your reptile can hunt them down.

PLANT

MINI PROFILE

Windeløv Java fern is an attractive smaller variety of Microsorum pteropus with finely branched leaf tips, named after Tropica's founder Holger Windeløv. It is easy to grow, and best results are when it is tied to wood or a rock.

Photo Jennifer Hamlin

Nepenthes the tropical pitcher plants

I have long been fascinated by carnivorous plants. I kept a few many years ago including a single Nepenthes in a large terrarium, but then started keeping tropical fish and that was that. My multiple tank syndrome progressed and eventually I had a small fish room, but I never considered keeping carnivorous plants in there despite it being warm and humid. Eight months ago, I decided to give Nepenthes a go. I purchased an adjustable 100-watt LED light panel (which way too bright – it is now set on 30 watts), suspended it below the ceiling over a tank hood beside a small window, and put it on a timer for 12 hours a day. It was the only free space in the fish room, but it was enough for a handful of plants.

I started with two common Nepenthes hybrids that are sometimes available at garden centres: N. x Saint Gaya and N. x ventrata. Hybrids are often hardier and more vigorous than their

by Darren Stevens

Nepenthes x Diana

parents so are good beginners plants. Both thrived. I purchased my N. x ventrata without pitchers and it later produced striking red pitchers. It now appears to be a N. x Lady Luck (N. ampullaria ‘red’ x N. ventricosa), a welcome bonus.

I have since added three more Nepenthes ampullaria hybrids: N. x Diana ((N. ventricosa x N. sibuyanensis) x N. ampullaria Red), N. x Susan (N. rafflesiania x N. ampullaria), and N. mirabilis var. globosa x N. ampullaria 'black magic'. N. ampullaria has a low growth habit (ideal for the limited space in my fish room) and produces an abundance of egg-shaped ground pitchers. My

N. ampullaria hybrids have thrived although N. Susan is far from compact and already has 35 cm long leaves and fairly large pitchers.

Although I am a Nepenthes novice my first foray has been quite successful. The high humidity and temperatures in the fishroom seem to be well suited to growing them and I wish I had given it a go earlier. The only set up cost was the LED light panel. I am now even talking about removing a tank or two to make room for more Nepenthes. How times have changed.

All Nepenthes need to be in free draining media (a sphagnum moss, perlite, and orchid bark mix works well) and only watered with rain

Nepenthes x Lady Luck

or RO water. The media should be kept damp and not allowed to dry out. Nepenthes also appreciate a mist spray a couple of times a day.

They will generally catch their own insects if available, although you can catch insects for them. My N. Saint Gaya has proved to be extremely good at catching ants. I used to

get regular ant invasions into the fish room, but they now go straight to the pitchers to meet their end. A single pitcher can have several hundred ants in it. I almost feel guilty watching them march to their doom. If you have a warm humid space with bright but indirect lighting, it is well worth giving Nepenthes a go. They are unusual, add a

Nepenthes x Diana

stunning splash of colour, and are a great talking point. The common hybrids seem to be relatively easy to grow.

The more common Nepenthes hybrids can sometimes be purchased from your local garden centre or hardware store. There are also several great Carnivorous Plant groups on Facebook and Trade Me offers a good selection.

Thanks to Ryan Rothschild (https://www. shopoflittlehorrors.co.nz) for reading over a draft of the article.

Darren Stevens

N. mirabilis var. globosa x N. ampullaria

Nepenthes x Saint Gaya

Nepenthes x Susan

Ceratopteris

by Melanie Newfield

Some years ago, in a public park in Taiwan, I spotted a plant growing on the margins of a large pond. It had very finely cut leaves, like a mass of threads, and was growing a good half-metre out of the water. I realised then why I struggled to keep my water sprite, also known as Indian fern (Ceratopteris thalictroides) under

thalictroides - natural habitat

control in my tanks. It simply wasn’t a tanksized plant.

Experts debate exactly how many species of Ceratopteris there are – I’ve seen anything from one to six species suggested. But there are two forms that I’ve kept, usually considered two species. One is C. thalictroides, the species I saw in Taiwan. The other is usually known as C. cornuta. They are distinguished by how finely divided the submerged leaves are – the more finely divided species is C. thalictroides, the broader-leaves species is C. cornuta. The emergent leaves are more similar, very finely divided and shiny.

Ceratopteris thalictroides

Ceratopteris

Photo: Forest and Kim Starr

Photo: Pei-Chi Lin

In the wild, the two species overlap in distribution. The native ranges are actually somewhat uncertain. Ceratopteris thalictroides is found throughout the tropics, but is considered an invasive species in North America and Australia. Its native range is probably Asia, but exactly where in Asia isn’t certain. Even in its native range, it’s considered a weed, particularly in rice fields. Ceratopteris cornuta is thought to be native to Africa, the Middle East and as far east as India.

Ceratopteris cornuta was the very first live plant I grew successfully. When I first began keeping tropical fish, as a teenager, I never managed to keep plants alive. After a break of around 25 years, I got back into fish keeping. Remembering my experience as a teenager, I put plastic plants in my tank. But then I was given a tiny plant of C. cornuta and told to bury one of the JBL clay balls in the sand and plant it on top. I did, and watched it anxiously. It seemed to take a long time, but it eventually began to grow.

Once it got going, of course, it got too big for the tank. But by that time, it was producing new plants on its leaves. I pulled out the overgrown plant and replanted some of the baby plants. I removed the plastic plants and have never looked back.

Ceratopteris is one of a number of ferns which sprouts baby plants directly on its fronds, known as vivipary. Our native hen and chicken fern (Aspenium bulbiferium) is probably the most well-known example, but there are many ferns which do this. It’s a habit which makes Ceratopteris ferns very easy to propagate. Even though they tend

to outgrow the average tank, if you don’t mind regularly replanting them, it’s easy to keep them going. I use them a lot as floating plants, which saves me from trying to get them to stay in the substrate.

Given that C. thalictroides is considered a weed in many tropical areas, it’s a plant to be careful of. In your fish tanks, it’s doing no harm. But if you are removing plants which have grown too large for your tanks, make sure that they end up in the compost or somewhere else away from waterways. I’m not sure whether it can survive outdoors in the New Zealand climate just yet, but if we are responsible with the aquatic plants we are growing, we will never need to find out.

Melanie Newfield

Ceratopteris cornuta

Photo: carlosar

SHOP TOUR

Fintastic Studio

8/115 Elliot Street, Howick , Manukau fintasticstudio@gmail.com 022 602 8547

Hours: Weekdays 9am to 5pm. Saturday 10am to 2pm.

Facilities: Emersed & submerged plant tank

Small tropical tanks

High tech display tank

Low tech Walstad tank

Black water tank

Betta display tanks

Fintastic Studio is a new aquatic pet store that opened in Howick, Auckland, earlier this year. From the moment you walk in the front door, it is clear that this shop is unlike any other pet store around. The raised ceiling at the front of the store made a relatively small space feel open and spacious. A sense of creative energy is undeniable as you start to examine your surroundings.

Live indoor plants can be seen dotted throughout the place. On the right side of the shop sits an upcycled beer crate shelf filled with a variety of fish food. A handcrafted driftwood stand runs along the entire width of the store window stocked full of aquarium equipment. Over to the left features

a custom Dojo table surrounded by driftwood and rocks. This provides a great workspace for hobbyists to lay out their hardscape arrangement before committing to their design. Next to the Dojo table is an evolving gallery wall of display tanks that showcase various awe-inspiring styles of the aquascaping world.

As you venture further into the shop, you are greeted by an amazingly scaped high-tech tank, set up by the 2hr Aquarist team. Behind the wall past the high-tech tank is where you will find a dedicated exhibit of emersed plants, submerged plants and the latest fashion statement, tissue cultured plants. Conveniently next to the aquatic plant display is a range of plant fertilisers any beginner to professional planted tank keeper would ever need.

Livestock is kept in the back half of the store. A low-profile bench seat in the centre of the room offers a great vantage point for those who wish to take their time viewing the fish. The fish stock tanks are also purposely designed and built by the studio’s owners to be both practical and aesthetically pleasing. This beautifully put together studio is a fish keeper’s dream. The products are displayed in such a unique but uncluttered way, you can tell a lot of thought went into designing every part of the store. The owners, Pei-Chi and her partner Rodney, are both keen aquarists and have spent the past 5 years breeding various fish from their home. You can be sure you are getting good, sound advice from the team at Fintastic Studio when you are in need of assistance.

With aspirations to set up future workshops for adults and children, and the room to expand into the downstairs space, Fintastic Studio is a place all aquatic keepers should make the stop and see for themselves.

Maxine Lynch

Interesting species

Discus and Angels (home bred)

Fancy plecos (zebra plecos in stock)

Bettas (including Betta imbellis)

Red tiger lotus

Ludwigia palustris super red (grown in store)

Terrarium (bubble cups)

Rank

Tropical fish

Cichlids

Oddballs

Coldwater fish

Marine fish N/A

Marine inverts N/A

Marine corals

Display tanks

Pond plants

Tropical plants

Dry goods

Pond supplies Can be ordered in

The importers not only offer a great range of fish, they also offer a great range of locally grown and imported tissue cultured aquatic plants. Many are available through your LFS or through specialised online aquatic plant or aquascaping stores. If the Anubias article has sparked your interest in these striking aquatic plants, most of the varieties in the article are available, but you may have to try a few suppliers.

For crypt fans there is a great selection. For a touch of elegance, it’s hard to go past C. crispatula var. balansae, C. crispatula var. tonkinensis, or C. retrospiralis (standard or bronze). If variety is what you are after then C. wendtii comes in green, brown, ‘Mi Oya’, ‘Tropica’, and the brightly coloured ‘Pink flamingo’ or ‘Pink panther’. Then there is also C. affinis, C. axelrodi, C. cordata, C. beckettii var. petchii, C. walkeri, C. undulata (standard, broad leaf, or red), and C. x willisii (Lucens).

Cryptocoryne crispatula var. balansae

Photo: Jennifer Hamlin

Cryptocoryne x willisii (Lucens)

Photo: Jennifer Hamlin

Cryptocoryne wendtii brown

Photo: Jennifer Hamlin

Cryptocoryne wendtii Mi Oya

Photo: ©Tropica

Sword plants are deservedly popular and come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Micro swords (Lilaeopsis brasiliensis and L. novae-zelandiae) are great smaller options and can form an attractive carpet. Chain swords (Helanthium species) grow a little larger and H. bolivianum ‘Latifolius’, H. bolivianum ‘Quadricostatus’ and H. tenellum (in green, red, and broad leaf) are all great options.

And finally, if you are after a large feature plant, there is a good range of Echinodorus sword plants available including: Echinodorus cordifolius ‘Marble Queen’, Echinodorus grandiflorus (AKA E. argentinensis), E. grisebachii (AKA E. amazonicus), E. horemanii ‘Red’, E. martii (AKA E. major), E. parviflorus ‘Tropica’, E. uruguayensis, rose sword (E. horemanii ‘Red’ x E. horizontalis), and E. x barthii (Osiris)

The editorial team

Echinodorus x barthii

Photo: ©Tropica

Echinodorus uruguayensis rose sword

Photo: ©Tropica

Lilaeopsis novae-zelandiae

Photo: Diane Wilkie

IMAGE SOURCES

10 Tutankhamun Jackal Photo:Jon Bodsworth, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Tutankhamun_jackal.jpg

10 Statuette of Anubis Photo:Jon Bodsworth, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Statuette_of_Anubis_MET_38.5_EGDP022863. jpg)

11 Anubias Nana Bloom, Photo: Eric Heupel, some rights reserved (CC BY-NC 2.0 DEED), https://www.flickr.com/photos/eclecticechoes/2724079118

28 Agar plate, Photo: Y tambe, GNU Free Documentation License, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Agar_Plate.jpg

33 Springtails, Photo: ©Rasmus Allesoee, some rights reserved (CC-BY-NC),https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/72567401

38 Ceratopteris thalictroides natural habitat Photo: Forest and Kim Starr (CC BY 2.0 DEED), https://www.flickr.com/photos/starrenvironmental/25091406442/

39 Ceratopteris cornuta in aquarium, Photo: carlosar, https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ceratopteris_cornuta_in_aquarium_alone.jpg

The Federation of New Zealand Aquatic Societies is a group of aquarists dedicated to supporting and promoting fishkeeping as a hobby, both in our local communities and globally with regard to conservation of aquatic species and their environments. The organisation is dedicated to the improvement of the aquarium and fishkeeping hobby and it has a 60 year history of representing aquarium societies in New Zealand.

Current affiliated aquarium clubs in New Zealand:

DUNEDIN AQUARIUM AND POND SOCIETY

CONTACT: Nic Smith dapsdunedin@gmail.com

HAWKE’S BAY AQUARIUM SOCIETY INCORPORATED

Contact: Chris Drake secretary@hbas.org.nz

FISH & REPTILE KEEPERS HAWKE’S BAY

Contact: Julie Wells farknz2023@gmail.com

MARLBOROUGH AQUARIUM CLUB

Contact: Caryl Simpson caryl@simtronics.co.nz

UPPER HUTT AQUARIUM SOCIETY

Contact: Maxine Lynch uhaquariumsociety@gmail.com

WAIKATO AQUARIUM SOCIETY

Contact: Suzanne Dalton waikatoaquariumsociety2023@gmail.com

Online Clubs

NEW ZEALAND REEFKEEPERS

Contact via: https://www.facebook.com/groups/nzreefkeepers/

NEW ZEALAND REPTILE AND AMPHIBIAN SOCIETY

Contact via: https://www.facebook.com/groups/NZRAS/

FNZAS DISCOUNT

The following businesses offer discounts to our members, remember to ask politely, this is a privilege not a right. You must show your current FNZAS Membersip card at the time of purchase.

AUCKLAND

Hollywood Fish Farm - 10% discount on selected non-sale items

36 Frost Rd. Mt. Roskill Ph 09 620 5249

10/2 Tawa Drive, Albany Ph 09 415 4157

www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz

The Bird Barn - 10% discount on fish and accessories

158 Lincoln Rd. Henderson. Ph 09 838 8748.

New Pupuke Aquarium Centre - 10% Discount

1 Lydia Ave, Birkenhead Ph 09 480 6846

GISBORNE

Eastland Aquariums - 10% discount as well as great in-store specials.

132 Grey St, Gisborne Ph/Fax 06 868 6760

HAMILTON

Hollywood Fish Farm - 10% discount on selected non-sale items

90 Greenwood Street, Frankton, Hamilton Ph: 07 212 5570

www.hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz

email: hamilton@hollywoodfishfarm.co.nz

Pure Aquatics - 10% discount on everything. 966 Heaphy Tce. Hamilton. Ph: 07 855 2176

HAWERA

Wholesale & Industrial Supplies - trade price, equating between 15 - 40% off retail prices

49 Glover Rd, Hawera Ph 06 278 7525

MORRINSVILLE

Demitry Pet Supplies - 10% Discount

142 Whitaker Street, Te Aroha. Ph 07 8897789

www.demitry.co.nz

email: demitryfish@gmail.com

NELSON

The Fishroom

www.thefishroom.co.nz

Email: getfish@thefishroom.co.nz

ROTORUA

Wonderworld Aquarium and Pet Centre - 10% discount 82 - 84 Clayton Road, Rotorua Ph: 07 348 0328

Email: info@wonderworldpetcentre.co.nz

TAURANGA

KiwiPetz - 10% discount Shop T30, Fraser Cove Shopping Centre, Tauranga Ph 07 578 8623 email kiwipetz@xtra.co.nz

Carine Garden Centre & Water World - 10% discount on fish, fish related products & aquatic plants Cnr SH2 & Te Karaka Drive, Te Puna Ph. 07 552 4949 www.carine.co.nz

WELLINGTON (and Greater Wellington area)

The Pet Centre - 10% discount on all fish and aquatic products

Lower Hutt - 28 Rutherford Street, Lower Hutt 5010, 04 569 8861 Upper Hutt - 82 Queen Street, Upper Hutt 5018, 04 9745473 Lyall Bay - 117 Tirangi Road, Rongotai 6022, 04 282 1242

Online @ www.thepetcentre.co.nz

Free shipping with orders over $30 + fish club discount still applies