DECEMBER 2013 Nยบ 56
THE TOP 10 TRADE SHOWS OF 2013
SUE WONG
Beauty. Magic. Transformation.
Waiting for Summer
Fashion Trends
SPRING/SUMMER 2014
FROM THE EDITOR
HIGH-END FASHION AND LUXURY LIFESTYLE TRADE MAGAZINE FOR AMERICAN RETAILERS
ON FASHION RETAIL
Happy Holidays!
EDITOR: Alex Geyman GENERAL MANAGER: Dmitry Nelipovich ART DIRECTOR: Allison Moryl GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Pay Fan GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Nadine Alvillar FASHION EDITOR: Francesca Trippoli SUBSCRIPTION: Sandra DaSilva RESEARCH: Shawn Lancaster SALES: Claudia Perez
Dear Friends, The busy Holiday season is upon us and I’ll spare you from both my lame attempts at words of wisdom and the pretentious harrumphs of a jaded magazine editor guiding you through this issue, which you will flip through anyway. Instead, I’ll keep this short and sweet. I want you to get in a good mood and smile. On behalf of all at the FOCUS magazine, let me wish you Happy Holidays and a very Happy New year. May it be a year of NEW BEGINNING for you, your loved ones and your businesses. A want to thank you for your continuous support and appreciation of our efforts to make this magazine worthy of your interest. As always, I would like to hear your thoughts. Please feel free to contact me at editor@focusonshoes.com with questions, comments, suggestions or topics you’d like to see covered in future issues. Serving you better is our goal and privilege. Best Wishes for a wonderful Holiday Season and a very Happy New Year!
Yours sincerely,
Alex Geyman Editor
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TABLE OF CONTENTS 4
FROM THE EDITOR
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ON THE COVER: Kate Moss/Focus’ Raffle
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FASHION TRENDS: Spring/Summer 2014
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SELF-HELP: How Misusing Digital Tools Undermines Communication
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FEATURED DESIGNER: Sue Wong. Beauty. Magic. Transformation.
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SECRETS TO SUCCESS: 7 Boldest Entrepreneur Moves of All Time
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ANNUAL REVIEW: The Top 10 Trade Shows of 2013
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STARTING UP: Fashion Line Created: Now What?
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TRENDING: New Denim Evolution
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WORKPLACE: Is Your Coworker A Jerk, or Does He Need A Doctor?
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CELEBRITIES AND FASHION: From the Red Carpets
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CELEBRITIES AND FASHION: Product Endorsement
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INVESTMENT REPORT: The American Customer Satisfaction Index
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JOB INTERVIEW: 3 Job Interview Myths
All images and editorials in this issue are subject to copyright law and are the property of FFR and/or the owners/contributors. No images, designs or texts may be reproduced, copied, used whole or in part without written permission. FFR magazine disclaims responsibility for the statements, claims made by either advertisers or contributing authors. FFR magazine is not responsible in whole or any part of advertisement or typographical errors.
FOCUS ON FASHION RETAIL 25924 Viana Avenue, Suite 19 Lomita, CA 90717 USA TEL. (310) 784-0790 • FAX (310) 202-6027 GENERAL E-MAIL: info@focusonshoes.com WEB: www.focusonshoes.com © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
Raffle
ON THE COV ER
WIN TODAY!
DECEMBER 2013 Nº 56
THE TOP 10 TRADE SHOWS OF 2013
FOCUS magazine along with the sponsors Isabelle Grace Jewelry (www.IsabelleGraceJewelry.com) and Briogeo (www.www. briogeohair.com), give away these wonderful gifts to four lucky readers just for stopping by the booth of any featured advertiser in this issue at any trade show during the month of December! 1.
NotJustAnyOldDay Datesake Calendar Key Pendant, Retail Value $75 Keep that special birth or anniversary date close to your heart and celebrate it all year long with this one-of-a-kind Datesake pendant. Date is signified with a Swarovski crystal. Made from recycled lead-free pewter. Shipped with a 30" Ball/Bar necklace in antique rose gold. Available at NotJustAnyOldDay.com.
2.
A set of naturally-based hair care products that combine the best of science and nature for high performance care formulas for all hair types from Briogeo (www.www.briogeohair.com), Retail Value $42-45 Be Gentle, Be Kind Sulfate-free Cleansing Shampoo for all hair types (8.5oz), with a choice of one: Curl Charisma Curl Defining Conditioner (8.5oz) for curly to wavy hair, or Blossom & Bloom Thickening and Volumizing Conditioner (8.5oz) for fine to limp hair, or Don’t Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask (5.25oz). Repairing mask for dry, damaged, or chemically-treated hair. Available at www.www. briogeohair.com.
DE TAILS O PAGE 5 N
SUE WONG
Beauty. Magic. Transformation.
Waiting for Summer
Fashion Trends
SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Waiting for Summer STARRING Kate Moss TANNING & SKIN FINISHING Nichola Joss MAKE UP Val Garland HAIR STYLING Sam McKnight TANNING PRODUCTS St. Tropez
“I love everything about summer and can’t wait for it to come. I love hanging out in my garden, not having to put layers and layers of clothes on and I love to swim in the sea.” Kate Moss On the cover of the December’s issue — international supermodel Kate Moss. Born and raised in London, at age 14 she went on a family holiday to the Bahamas in 1980. While waiting for her return flight to the UK at JFK Airport, she was discovered by a modeling agent. The rest, as they say, is history. Kate Moss joined Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer and Linda Evangelista, in becoming the Supermodels of the 1990s. Kate has been featured in countless magazines and TV commercials and earlier this year she became a new face and body of St.Tropez (www.sttropeztan.com), the iconic leading globalself-tan brand. Featuring Kate Moss wearing the ultimate tan — the campaign’s strapline — the iconic images, inspired by the high glamour associated with pool-side summers, will be seen in global print and online advertising and in-store… and on the cover of FOCUS magazine! © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
No purchase necessary. To enter the raffle simply come to the booth of any featured advertiser with this announcement, write a word “Raffle” on your business card and leave it with the person in charge. If you win, our friends from Isabelle Grace Jewelry (www. IsabelleGraceJewelry.com) and/or Briogeo (www.www.briogeohair.com) will send you one of the listed items absolutely FREE. Only one item per recipient, no duplicate entries. The mailing address must be within continental U.S.A. *The actual gift set consists of a shampoo and a conditioner of your choice, featured in the photo. ** This raffle has been fully sponsored by Isabelle Grace Jewelry and Briogeo. Each of four lucky winners will receive one of the above mentioned pieces directly from the Sponsors, free of charge. The winners will be determined on January 2nd 2014 and the prizes will be sent to them within 6-8 weeks. Focus On Fashion Retail is not responsible for the content of this announcement approved by the Sponsors.
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fashion trends
4 1 0 2 r e m m u s / spring Swimwear Knots and braids are the new fringe. Bold, edgy detailing and feminine accents like ruffles are a few essentials that make a suit stand out from the rest, and what retailers are keeping their eyes peeled for this summer as they make crucial decisions for their 2014 buy. Laser cut-outs, textures, fish-boning, macramé, and jacquards, transparent and micro-fiber materials.
DOLORES CORTES
DOLORES CORTES
Sunglasses Futuristic women’s sunglasses with bold architectural volumes, timeless elegance through wide butterfly shapes.
MONTSE BASSONS
Shoes Orange color is big, ethnic elements, reptilian skin or imitations for shoe uppers, wooden platforms or wood pattern covers, metal spikes.
FABI
MONTSE BASSONS
BALENCIAGA BALDININI
MARINO FABIANI 6
December 2013
MARESCA
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ROSA FAIA
DSQUARED2
MICHAEL KORS
JEANNOT’S
MIA MARCELLE
MILLY BY MICHELLE SMITH
ALBERTO GOZZI
JUST CAVALLI
TACCETTI
TOM FORD © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
D e ce m b e r 2 0 1 3
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fashion trends
4 1 0 2 r e m m u s / spring
DONNA KARAN ZAC POSEN
Graphic prints, organic impressions, marbleized patterns, luminous woven, laser cuts and embroidery, freeflowing silks dominating casual and dressy fashions.
Sunglasses Wide shapes in acetate-injected shiny metals, ornamental embellishments on the rims. Elements of the 1960’s spirit with thick temple shapes and cat eye silhouettes.
Shoes White color, geometric designs and elements, reptilian skin, animal prints, wedges and ultra-thin heels.
BADGLEY MISCHKA ORIGINAL SERGIO SALMASO
ORIGINAL SERGIO SALMASO
TAG HEUER
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MARINO FABIANI © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
NICOLE MILLER
MARA HOFFMAN
CUSTO BARCELONA DENNIS BASSO
LUCIANO PADOVAN
DIESEL SWAROVSKI MAYA HANSEN BALDININI
CASADEI
HANNIBAL LAGUNA
ROBERTO CAVALLI © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
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Jewelry Trends
TAKAT JEWELS
S PR I NG/S U M M E R 2014
by MICHAEL O’CONNOR Celebrity Stylist, Style/Jewelry Expert, www.styleandsubstance.com
T
here are a number of things that influence jewelry designs from the perspectives of color, proportion and theme. Those influences come from many areas such as what clothing designers are showing on the runway, to the economy, to cultural influences. Clothing designers have a significant impact on jewelry trends. Let’s face it! If every clothing designer is doing high necklines, the need for chokers would be minimal. There are a couple of things happening on the design front currently. Ornamentation is getting more pronounced and larger on garments. Longer fringes, larger ruffles and large zippers are important. Beading is coming back. Therefore, jewelry needs to be of a proportion that won’t get lost. That means that the size of jewelry pieces needs to be larger so that they compliment the ornamentation and don’t get lost in it. Although we still see a lot of neutrals, color continues to be a growing trend on the runways. Therefore, colored gemstone and colored diamonds become an important focus in order to create monochromatic looks or to pop by creating contrast with clothing. The top color, according to Pantone for Spring 2014 is Dazzling Blue. Of course from a gem perspective that means gems like sapphire, tanzanite, chalcedony and others will be popular. However, contrasting gems in the red family, like ruby and red spinel, as well as the orange, green and purple gems will get a lot of play. Other top Pantone choices like Violet Tulip, Radiant Orchid, Celosia Orange, Freesia, etc. will also be played out in the spectrum of colored gems that will be used by jewelry designers. The economy also plays it’s part in jewelry trends. With jewelry designs needing to be larger and more colors being used, some of the less
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important and less expensive gemstone will get more play. That means that we will continue see an interest in the high-end (precious) gemstones but more designers will start to use some of the lesser qualities of the stones. We’re seeing this happen with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, etc. that have big looks, but not the high quality or transparency that we typically see them in. Slices are also becoming more important since they give a larger look but keep the carat weight lower. More designers will start to see the beauty of some of the less expensive gems typically seen at the lower end, such as Rhodochrosite, Chrysophase, etc. and halo those gems with “typically high end” gems such as emerald, ruby, sapphire and diamond. Popular themes in jewelry seem to be taken from a variety of places. The most important ones that I’m seeing are nature inspired elements, vintage styling and supernatural. I think the themes we see are very much influenced by societal interests and often influenced by what we see in the movies or on television. For example, I think there is a heightened sense of nature of late. People are interested in the earth and it’s elements and the growth of networks such as Discovery and Animal Planet cater to that interest. Vintage styling has always been popular, and movies and shows like The Artist, The Great Gatsby and Downtown Abby give people a wonderfully romantic look at these period and fashions and therefore help drive interest in that type of styling. Movies and shows like Harry Potter, Twilight Saga, Once Upon a Time generate interest in a mystical feel. Therefore cabochon’s and blackened metals become popular for jewelry, as well as skull, sword, cross and snake themes.
GUMUCHIAN
ECLAT JEWELS
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
TAKAT JEWELS
NATALIE BARONI
DI BIAGGIO
NATALIE BARONI
GUMUCHIAN
JEFFREY DANIELS UNIQUE DESIGNS
TAKAT JEWELS
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
December 2013
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fashion trends
4 1 0 2 r e m m u s / spring Geometric prints and scales against each other for dramatic flair. Layering, color blocking. Sporty silhouettes, multi-color combinations.
NAUTICA
Sunglasses Retro feel and modern appeal, contrasting thickness and patterns. Variations on the aviator shapes with unconventional thick plastic front and temples delivering masculine look.
Shoes Classic and retro styles, color blocking. Combinations oxfordssneakers. Sporty look.
CUSTO BARCELONA
CHOPARD RACE CAR TROPHY 2013 BALENCIAGA
TESTOSTERONE
NIKI
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SLAVA ZAITSEV
DINO BIGIONI
LEONID ALEXEEV
BREITLING EMERGENCY
DSQUARED2
GALIZIO TORRESI CYCLEUR DE LUXE © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
D e ce m b e r 2 0 1 3
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ashion trends fFASHION TRENDS 14
0 2 r e m m u s / spring editor’s pick
ONEPIECE
MONTBLANC
The Jump from Paper line are super cute cartoonish looking actual bags! Imagine teenagers and young adults walking the streets with such bags? It’s a trend! Onepiece, a jumpsuit TESTOSTERONE brand from Norway presents a new line of trendy one-piece suits that are comfortable and fashionable.
ONEPIECE
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN’S THE INGENIEUR AUTOMATIC
TODD SNYDER
Y-3 BY YOHJI YAMAMOTO
BUTTERI
TEARS OF BLEU
JUMP FROM PAPER
Beautiful trend setting designs of Tears of bleu, featuring premium washed denim line easily identified by an adorable self-attached red patch that not only secures the desirable length but also works as a fashion statement.
DIESEL
V.R.L.. JUMP FROM PAPER
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FFR - Focus On FashionRetail Retail © FFR © - Focus On Fashion
self- help
MASS MISCOMMUNICATION:
How Misusing Digital Tools Undermines Results (and Ten Ways to Stop Letting It Happen!) By Geoffrey Tumlin You fiddle with your smartphone under the table during an important meeting. You type an (error-ridden) email to a client while talking (distractedly) on the phone. You interrupt a sensitive discussion with your spouse to respond to a trivial text message. You use a social media platform to reconnect with an old friend, only to offend her (and others) with an ill-advised attempt at humor. And really, you’re not some clueless boor: Everyone you know operates this way. In our device-dominated world, it’s what passes for communication. Yes, at some point or another, we’ve all allowed quick and easy to replace meaningful and productive. But while shoddy communication is ubiquitous, it doesn’t have to be inevitable. The very tools that enable us to maintain contact with people all over the world also distort our priorities, fragment our concentration, degrade our ability to listen, and scatter our attention. But like any other tool, our phones, computers, and tablets are inanimate objects. They aren’t the problem. We are. That’s where my new book, Stop Talking, Start Communicating: Counterintuitive Secrets to Success in Business and in Life comes in. Full of counterintuitive yet concrete advice, it draws on my experience as a communication consultant to show readers how to improve conversations, develop productive communication habits, and use our world’s powerful digital devices not to fragment attention and dilute relationships, but to bring us closer to our higher-order aspirations.
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This is the best time in human history to be a competent communicator. It’s true that it can be incredibly difficult to break free of the gravitational pull of distraction, expediency, self-expression, and excess that characterize so much digital-age communication. Yet if you are willing to consciously strengthen your communication skills, you can leverage unprecedented opportunities to connect productively and meaningfully with other people. Here, I share ten surprising tips to help you shake off counterproductive communication behaviors and get better results personally and professionally:
Back up to go forward. (Remember how we communicated before we got our new devices.) The digital revolution facilitated hypercommunication and instant self-expression, but, ironically, made it harder for anyone to listen. There’s just too much “chatter clutter” getting in the way. To make the most of our conversations, we need to remember how we connected effectively with others before we had smartphones and computer screens to “help” us. Specifically, implementing three guiding habits—listen like every sentence matters, talk like every word counts, and act like every interaction is important—will help you be more present in conversations and will improve your digital-age communication. These “old school” guiding behaviors will help you become a better communicator— not perfect, but better.
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Invert your expectations. (Lower your hopes for your “smart” devices.) Because technology does a lot for us, it’s no surprise that we’ve collectively fallen in love with it. But in our enthusiasm for what our tools can do, we’ve lost sight of the people behind the tools. It’s time to turn that around. Our devices don’t possess the communication abilities we think they do. A tech-centered view of communication encourages us to expect too much from our devices and too little from each other. We assume that hitting “send” means we’ve communicated, when really, the other person may not have understood the message at all. Until we restore a more people-centered approach, we will continue to feel unsatisfied and unfulfilled by our interactions—despite having the most powerful connection and transmission devices in human history in the palm of our hands.
Lose your “friends.” These days, it’s not unusual to be superficially connected to large numbers of people. And it’s way too easy to send hundreds of marginally important messages, chat with distant acquaintances, and spend hours surfing the web, leaving no time to talk to the people who matter most. In other words, meaningful relationships are being trumped by people you barely know.
Prioritize the people in your life — actual and digital — in a four-tier pyramid. The top of the pyramid—Tier A—should be composed of a small number of the most important people in your life; those you want to have open access to you at all times. Residents of Tier B also have good access to you, but you monitor the time you give them more closely. Tiers C and D don’t have open access to you. You might return a voicemail from a C within 24 hours, and Ds will just have to wait until you can get around to them. After you’ve made these distinctions, stick to them. No, you aren’t being rude or insensitive. You’re clearing your life of counterproductive chatter and safeguarding time and energy for the most important people in your life.
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Stop talking and think for a minute. While words can build relationships only slowly, they can cause damage with lightning speed. A blurted retort, a thoughtless Tweet, or a hasty remark can—and does—land people in hot water all the time. People require some space to absorb information, formulate their responses, and deliver them effectively. I’m not saying that you should take a vow of silence; merely that, as the CEO of your tongue, you should issue an executive order to stop talking long enough to think about what it is that you’re going to express. This will help you to clear out a lot of distracting conversational clutter, get in front of ill-advised words, and provide the space you need to self-correct when you’re angry or upset.
Don’t always “be yourself.” (Careless self-expression is usually an excuse for bad behavior.)
your mother coming over for dinner again?” or “Did you call Jim in accounting about this?” can cause trouble if the other person thinks there’s a criticism behind the query. Some of your relationship problems probably reflect your underdeveloped questioning skills. Faulty questions contribute to many conversational failures and can add anxiety, defensiveness, and ill will to interactions. In general, the more you query simply to indulge your personal cravings to get an answer, to hammer home a point, or to satisfy a narrow personal interest, the more your questions are likely to stifle dialogue. Better to focus on what you can learn from or about another person and ask questions that reflect a broad curiosity about the person or topic you’re discussing.
Not so long ago, there were more structural impediments to our communication. We couldn’t afford to talk frequently to people outside our local area code, and it was hard to talk to several people at once unless the conversation was face-to-face. If we made a communication gaffe, it wasn’t such a big deal. But now that we can talk to anyone, anywhere, at virtually no cost, the ability to express ourselves instantly can be much more dangerous. “I was just being myself ” sounds harmless, but it’s often an excuse to indulge in destructive behavior. Smart communicators realize that one single action—not allowing your feelings to dictate your words—will impact your quality of life profoundly: You will get what you want more often. By focusing on what you want to accomplish instead of what you want to say, you’ll keep your conversational goal in its rightful place—above your feelings in terms of priority.
Question your questions. Questions are not always neutral. They make some of your conversations better, but as you’ve probably noticed, many questions make a surprisingly large number of your conversations worse. Even “simple” inquiries can go awry. “Is
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self- help ❝ This is the best time in human history to be a competent communicator. It’s true that it can be incredibly difficult to break free of the gravitational pull of distraction, expediency, self-expression, and excess that characterize so much digital-age communication. ❞ Don’t try to solve every problem right now. Our quick, cheap, and easy digital devices allow us to have far too many unnecessary conversations, engage in way too much unnecessary collaboration, and get our hands (and thumbs) on too many irrelevant issues. That’s why smart communicators, like smart doctors, have a good triage system—its categories are Now, Delay, and Avoid—to focus on the most pressing issues, while delaying or ignoring less important matters. Problems in the Now category require an immediate, solution-based conversation. Don’t automatically assign too many issues to this category—this is the fundamental miscalculation your triage system is trying to correct. Delay is your default category. Many issues may disappear completely or resolve themselves without your intervention. Finally, avoid issues that reflect highly emotional, incredibly complicated, and other volatile feelings that reside deep inside another person unless they are impairing the accomplishment of critical work.
Let difficult people win. Jane talks too much. Uncle Billy loves to argue. Your client is moody. Whether they’re controlling, critical, or cranky, the behaviors that make someone a difficult person tend to spark frequent confrontations—even though we’re unlikely to influence these people. For example, we wrestle with Jane to get a word in edgewise. We fire a barrage of points and counterpoints into Uncle Billy’s arguments. We try to offset our client’s mood swings. It’s time to quit trying. At the end of a conversation, the difficult person remains the same, but often you are in a weaker position. Only a commitment to let go of your desire to “win” by imposing your will on the other person can realistically and consistently improve your communication with difficult people. When you find yourself with no choice but to interact with a difficult person,
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have modest expectations, avoid tangents, and stay focused on your end goal. It’s really all you can do.
Respond with weakness. We all too often use more force than we need to accomplish our objectives. We yell when a measured response would work better, send a blistering e-mail when a more restrained reply would suffice, or issue an ultimatum when a firm but gentle statement of convictions would do. Conflicts that start or escalate with excessive force frequently cause a destructive cycle—attack, retaliation, escalated attack, and escalated retaliation, etc. No matter how justified you may feel, the bottom line is that using excessive force isn’t usually a winning strategy. It’s not always easy, but try to apply the least amount of interpersonal force and intensity necessary to accomplish your objective. In other words, bring a stick to a knife fight in order to neutralize a harsh conversation. Try to stay serious and focused, and keep the conversation as brief as possible. Keep your words calm, controlled, and stabilizing—don’t add any new emotional material.
want the same from you. The fact is, boring is dependable. Bland is steady. Over time, what seems unremarkable turns out to be quite remarkable after all, because great relationships are built through thousands of routine interactions. As we move further into the digital age, let’s embrace new ways to connect while retaining the ability to communicate meaningfully and effectively with each other. Whether you are talking face-to-face with one individual or broadcasting to hundreds via email or social media, you can use higher-order communication skills to make sure that your interactions count.
Be boring. Modern culture promotes the false notion that communication should be as flashy, stimulating, and entertaining as the sleek devices that facilitate it. We assume that the best conversations are also the most exciting ones: the ones that are intense or high stakes, that bring big news, that are filled with emotion, or that contain something unexpected or novel. But exciting conversations are relatively rare and often don’t go our way. In reality, good, meaningful communication usually looks plain, unremarkable, and boring. And guess what: That’s okay. Think about it: It’s not really excitement and intensity that you want from your conversations; you want bosses, coworkers, family, and friends you can count on. And they
Geoffrey Tumlin is the author of Stop Talking, Start Communicating: Counterintuitive Secrets to Success in Business and in Life (McGrawHill, August 2013, ISBN: 978-0-07181304-4, $20.00, www.tumlin.com) available at bookstores nationwide, from major online booksellers, and at www.tumlin.com. You can learn more about Geoffrey Tumlin at www.tumlin.com, and you can reach him by e-mail at geoff@tumlin.com.
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FE ATU RE D DE SIGNE R
Beauty. Magic. Transformation.
Spring/Summer 2014 Sue Wong is a renowned LA-based fashion designer known for her classic Hollywood-inspired gowns. Her designs are worn by numerous A-list talent including Jessica Biel, Taylor Swift, Christina Ricci, and Kelly Osbourne and have been featured in fashion glossies throughout the country. Born in China, Sue Wong immigrated to the United States when she was only six years old. As a child, her nascent creative tendencies drew her to art. In high school she was chosen from over three hundred female classmates to become a member of the May Company Teen Board and landed the opportunity to work in various capacities including modeling, assisting in window display and merchandising. While she was still trying to earn a fashion degree, she interned with the resource brand Arpeja after winning first place in a scholarship sponsored by the company, and eventually rose to the position of chief designer for the label Young Edwardian. Her initial collection of Sue Wong day dresses was launched to critical acclaim in 1985. In 1999, she introduced more elaborate evening pieces to her collection, a move that would firmly establish her signature style of haute glamour, femininity and romantic vintage sensibilities. Sue Wong truly captures and embodies a captivating splendor through her work. With her mantra, “Beauty. Magic. Transformation.” Sue Wong’s gowns transform wearers and transport them to a time when glamour and decadence were the standards of beauty. Inspired by her muses Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, and Carole Lombard, her gowns are steeped with romance and femininity. It is the Eternal Feminine Goddess energy that Sue Wong aspires to honor in every woman, creating beauty and sorcery that both enchants as it empowers, leaving a trail of wistful romantics speechless in its wake.
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SECRE T S TO SUCCE SS
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BOLDEST
Entrepreneur Moves of All Time But he still refused to give up. He started a new business with a former employee of his and moved from making caramels to chocolate. After 10 years of failure, Hershey finally hit on a winning business. His company expanded year after year and if he had listened to his friends and family through those 10 years of failure we would never have known the Hershey Chocolate bar.
Bold Move #6:
Ted Turner Decides To Be Successful
Bold Move #7:
Milton Hershey Doesn’t Give Up Milton Hershey was the founder of The Hershey Chocolate Company. He was not only one of the 20th Century’s most successful entrepreneurs but also one of the country’s most generous philanthropists. Today, The Hershey Company continues to reign as the world’s largest chocolate company with more than 13,000 employees and over $5 billion in sales. At the age of 19, against his parents’ wishes, Hershey decided to move to Philadelphia in order to start up his own caramel company. The business was never able to generate a profit and was forced to close six years later. Hershey refused to give up. He traveled throughout Denver, New York, Chicago and New Orleans trying to find fortune but each time he was unsuccessful. He returned home at age 28 with no money and was seen as a disgrace by his family. 22
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Ted Turner is the founder of CNN and Turner Broadcasting System. He owns the Atlanta Braves, gave $1 billion to the United Nations, and currently has a net worth of $1.9 billion. Turner had a lot of bad luck growing up. He was a ‘C’ student at school, got expelled from University, had his parents divorce, got divorced by his wife, and had his sister develop terminal lupus. He went to work for his father’s outdoor advertising company when his father then killed himself because he couldn’t pay off the company’s debts. Ted Turner, at the age of 24 took over the company, restored it to profitability and began building his empire. He had all the odds stacked against him but he was determined to be a success. According to Turner: “All my life people have said that I wasn’t going to make it… I’ve never run into a guy who could win at the top level in anything today and didn’t have the right attitude, didn’t give it everything he had, at least while he was doing it; wasn’t prepared and didn’t have the whole program worked out.”
Bold Move #5:
George Lucas Challenges Traditional Business Models George Lucas is one of the film industry’s most financially successful independent directors and producers with an estimated net worth of $3 billion. He is best known for his Star Wars and Indiana Jones movies. When Lucas’ first movies didn’t give a financial return on investment he found it difficult to find support for his latest idea, a movie called Star Wars. To get the movie into production he waived his up-front fee as a director and agreed to own the licensing rights so he could profit from any toys, t-shirts, and other products that came from the movie. At the time movie studios didn’t see licensing rights as valuable so they agreed. The money he made from the licensing rights allowed him to finance the sequels himself and built his fortune. According to Lucas: “My first six years in the business were hopeless. There are a lot of
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times when you sit and you say ‘Why am I doing this? I’ll never make it. It’s just not going to happen. I should go out and get a real job and try to survive’. I thought Star Wars was too wacky for the general public. Right or wrong this is my movie, this is my decision, and this is my creative vision, and if people don’t like it, they don’t have to see it.”
Bold Move #4:
Anita Roddick Is Forced To Survive Anita Roddick was the founder of The Body Shop, a cosmetics company known for its environmental and ethical best practices. In 2006 she sold the company to L’Oréal for £652.3 million. When she got married Roddick and her husband, Gordon, set up a small eight-room hotel to support their family. Then her husband decided he wanted to fulfill his lifelong dream of riding a horse from Buenos Aires, Argentina to New York City. In order to support her family while her husband was gone she started The Body Shop. The bank rejected her $8,000 loan request so she got the money from a local gas station owner to get the business up and running while looking after her two children on her own. According to Roddick: “For myself, I needed to earn money, to look after the kids while my husband was traveling for two years © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
across South America… I started The Body Shop in 1976 simply to create a livelihood for myself and my two daughters, while my husband, Gordon, was trekking across the Americas. I had no training or experience and my only business acumen was Gordon’s advice to take sales of £300 a week. Nobody talks of entrepreneurship as survival, but that’s exactly what it is and what nurtures creative thinking.”
Bold Move #3:
A.P. Giannini Bets On The Little Guy Amadeo Peter Giannini revolutionized the banking world by providing services to “the little guy.” Giannini passed away in 1949 at the age of 79. By that time, the bank he had founded, the Bank of America, had become the largest bank in the world, with more than 525 branches in over 300 cities. Before A.P. Giannini you could only get a loan if you already had some money. Hardworking immigrants like his parents didn’t qualify and Giannini wanted to change the system. He set up his bank across the street from a popular bank and began making loans to people other banks wouldn’t give a chance. When a massive earthquake hit San Francisco in 1906, all the banks in the city closed down to assess their damage. People couldn’t get access to their funds at the time they needed it the most. The earthquake D e ce m b e r 2 0 1 3
23
demolished Giannini’s bank but he opened up shop by setting up a desk using two barrels and a plank of wood across them. He would lend money to people based on a handshake to help them rebuild their lives. He also went on to fund entrepreneurs like Walt Disney who nobody believed in and projects like the Golden Gate Bridge that were considered too crazy to invest in.
Laliberté was named the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year and his current net worth is over $2.5 billion. After a couple of years of marginal success, Laliberté decided to risk everything to perform at the Los Angeles Arts Festival. Booked as the opening act, the performance was going to be watched by many big names, including highprofile Hollywood celebrities. According to Laliberté: “It was live or die in L.A. And we bet everything on one night. By the end of the show we had standing ovations. The day after, tickets were selling like crazy. I bet everything on that one night. If we failed, there was no cash for gas to come home.”
Bold Move #1:
Walt Disney Does The Impossible
Bold Move #2:
Guy Laliberté Risks It All In Los Angeles Canadian Guy Laliberté is the founder of Cirque du Soleil, a circus entertainment company whose shows have been seen by almost 100 million people worldwide. In 2006, 24
December 2013
Walt Disney was a film producer, animator, and entertainer. He created films with iconic characters like Mickey Mouse, won 22 Academy Awards, and established the Disney theme parks. Today the Walt Disney Company has revenues of over $35 billion per year. At a young age, Walt Disney had some modest success with animated short films when he decided to do the boldest move ever in his industry: Make a full-length animated feature film. It had never been done before, let alone in color and with music. His competitors, associates, and even his wife thought he would never make it. Originally budgeted at $500,000, the project had gone over budget by half a million dollars in its early stages. Disney was forced to act out the film’s story in front of bankers in order to secure the additional loans he needed to finish it. In the end, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs went on to earn four times the box office of any other film when it was released.
According to Disney: “Somehow I can’t believe there are any heights that can’t be scaled by a man who knows the secret of making dreams come true. This special secret, it seems to me, can be summarized in four C’s. They are Curiosity, Confidence, Courage, and Constancy and the greatest of these is Confidence.” Reprinted with permission from www.evancarmichael.com © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
FEBRUARY 5–7, 2014 WEDNESDAY–FRIDAY New York Hilton Midtown & Member Showrooms
Special hotel rates at FFANY.ORG SAVE THE DATE June 3–5, 2014 (Tuesday–Thursday)
@ffanyshoeshow
ANNUAL RE V IE W
Readers Satisfaction with … (on the scale of 1 to 10) TRAFFIC/ATTENDANCE
CONVENIENCE
SERVICES OFFERED AT SHOW
COST OF ATTENDING/ PARTICIPATING
VALUE, IMPORTANCE FOR YOUR BUSINESS
TOTAL SCORE, 60 MAX
SATISFACTION, %
VOTES, %
Trade Show Ratings by FOCUS Readers
ORGANIZATION/ PLANNING/PROMOTION
The Top
In making our selections, we considered events fully rated by at least twenty different people. Next, I contacted the organizers of the shows for official facts and figures. My job is digging for truth. All these guys love to say, we are the largest, the fastest, the meanest show around… I say, Prove it! Give me the numbers confirming the size of the venue, number of exhibiting brands, number of visitors, etc- all that is necessary to know about the event. Sadly, some of the surveyed shows have refused to disclose such data due to the “internal policy”. Huh? Fell free to reach your own conclusion.
1
PROJECT SHOW LAS VEGAS
10
8
8
8
4
8
46
66%
90%
2
FN PLATFORM
10
6
8
6
4
7
41
66%
35%
3
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET
6
7
9
4
3
8
37
60%
50%
4
WWDMAGIC
7
5
7
5
5
8
37
60%
25%
5
COTERIE
6
4
9
4
6
7
36
60%
50%
6
GDS
6
3
6
8
4
6
33
58%
90%
our readers’ favorites among international trade
7
PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
6
3
6
8
4
6
33
58%
25%
shows in the fashion industry. Throughout the year
8
WHO’S NEXT
6
3
5
7
3
8
32
54%
40%
we offered to rate the performance of events listed
9
ACCESSORIESTHESHOW
5
2
8
5
3
8
31
52%
60%
7
6
6
6
2
4
31
52%
25%
Trade Shows of 2013 s always, the last issue of the year features the results of the annual survey determining
in the Calendar, and based on returned responses, have selected the Top 10 events of the year.
10 THEMICAM
The idea of this survey came to me some years ago, while discussing the events with colleagues. I noticeda that there were not any OBJECTIVE denominators to judge the performances of the
EVENT (in alphabetical order)
EXHIBITING AREA, NET
AVG. BOOTH COST
2013
COMPARING W/ 2012
2013
ADMISSION COST (BUYERS)
UNDISCLOSED
N/A
UNDISCLOSED
FREE TO TRADE
shows. Most asked question, “How’s the show?”.
ACCESSORIES THE SHOW
only could be answered “Good. So-So. Bad.” This
COTERIE
UNDISCLOSED
N/A
UNDISCLOSED
FREE TO TRADE
led me to propose the ratings system along with
FN PLATFORM
190,000 SQ. FT
N/A
UNDISCLOSED
FREE TO TRADE
a set of questions important to evaluating the
GDS
408,000 SQ. FT (38,000 SQ. M)
N/A
FROM 135 E/M2 AND UP
FREE TO TRADE
performance of the event. Now, with the questions
PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
635,070 SQ. FT (59,000 SQ. M)
SAME
257 E/M2
23 E ADVANCE 30 E ON SITE
PROJECT SHOW LAS VEGAS
UNDISCLOSED
N/A
UNDISCLOSED
FREE TO TRADE
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET
320,000 SQ. FT
SAME
$675 (10' X 10') FURNISHED
FREE TO TRADE
THEMICAM
729,341 SQ. FT (67,758 SQ. M )
-0.82%
170 E/M2
FREE TO TRADE
WHO’S NEXT
UNDISCLOSED
N/A
9,000 E
40 E ADVANCE 55 E ON SITE
WWDMAGIC
UNDISCLOSED
N/A
UNDISCLOSED
FREE TO TRADE
like, Rate the traffic at the show, or, Rate the value for your business, the numerical answers on the scale from 1 to 10 provide most accurate measure of the event’s performance. The sum of all answers (numbers) represents overall SATISFACTION with the show. The shows with the highest satisfaction scores make it to the list. 26
December 2013
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
Nevertheless, I am grateful to all the events and individuals for their time and cooperation in making this article possible, with or without corporate limitations, and I would like to extend a big THANK YOU! to all of them! And now, the events that have made it to the list of the Top 10: This year’s #1 show is The Project. Held biannually in both New York City and Las Vegas, this trading event features a great assortment of better fashion merchandise, including premium denim, high fashion athletic footwear, sunglasses, watches, other accessories. I’d describe The Project show as “the coolest trade show in America”- fun friendly atmosphere, edgy, carefully selected merchandise to satisfy the needs of better fashion retailers. Definitely not the boring average contemporary fashion for all. Complementary after show party and the VIP food court- the best in the USA! The Project trade show is one of the four events of the Advanstar’s portfolio that made it to the list; the other shows are WWDMAGIC (#4), Coterie (#5), and FN Platform (#2). Speaking of the American trade shows, these four events are the best and the most comprehensive in their categories, in my opinion: FN Platform is clearly the leader in the footwear sector, probably the largest (there is no official data to support this thought) shoe show in the US, with most categories presented, except luxury. At the summer’s edition of MAGIC, the “affordable luxury” and simply low-end shoes got an option to moving to the recently acquired WSA, which according to exhibitors was a great idea, they loved the separation. I have never attended the Atlanta Shoe Market (#3), but according our survey, this show is steadily gaining more weight
and recognition, surely becoming an international event you cannot miss. I also never attended European events GDS (#6), Pitti Immagine (#7), nor Who’s Next (#8) but again, judging by the results of the survey, people voted these trade shows important to their businesses and are quiet happy about them. The AccessoriesTheShow (#9) is back on the list of the Top 10 readers’ favorites. The show specializes in contemporary to highend fashion accessories and runs concurrently with five other trading events under the same roof. While the GDS has been retaining it’s solid position in the middle of our chart for quiet some time, my personal favorite of all footwear shows theMICAM (#10) has lost its once high ratings, unfortunately. The show is still a part of the world’s Top 10, but clearly not as effective as it used to be. Is it because of the Asian influence, the economic situation in Italy, internal problems within ANCI, I don’t know. But what I do know is that there is no better place to shop for mid-priced fashionable Italian shoes than theMICAM. The event that did not make it to the Top 10 list, but worth mentioning, is the Couromoda in Sao Paulo, Brazil. My personal impression of the show is that, when all other trade events I attended this year in the US were quiet, slow, not overly exciting- the Couromoda has demonstrated four days of a fully packed Convention center, friendly ambience, and professional atmosphere. Brazil is working on resolving serious problems in the leather goods sector to increase exportability of footwear and textile products. I would recommend keeping an eye on this show and the growing Brazilian market in general. Without even looking at the provided (or not provided) stats, I can say that most, if not
EXHIBITORS (BRANDS) 2013, AVG PER SHOW
all of the trade shows in 2013 have experienced a quiet period. This is my personal observation. Just the reality of the world we live in today- the turbulent worldwide economies foremost, but also such factors as the growing number of competing events often taking place almost simultaneously at different locations, increase in volume, and quality of Internet trade, just to name a few. Retailers have become very selective and careful placing even small size orders and therefore, tend to attend only those events that potentially can deliver better value for their businesses. Issues in consideration: variety of goods and services at the show, convenience, cost, and personal satisfaction- if the show appears boring, too stressful, they choose to go elsewhere. These all are the objective factors that define today’s situation and I believe, this trend will continue into the future. Nevertheless, based on the results of our survey, the top 10 shows listed in this article have provided the most value for the businesses under given circumstances and I hope they will continue their efforts to bring together both buyers and sellers for a better trade in 2014. Again, it has been a very tough year for the trade. The overall satisfaction and/or value for the business ratings has dropped for all shows without exception, comparing with the surveys years before. Yet, all the events that made it to the Top 10 list have demonstrated that they are important and appreciated for their efforts to connect buyers and sellers. We’d like to congratulate the show organizers and extend our good wishes for their continued success. And to all trade show buyers and sellers, we wish you Happy Trading!
Alex Geyman
VISITORS 2013, AVG PER SHOW
FREQUENCY YEAR
DURATION DAYS
DOMESTIC
INTL
TOTAL
COMPARING W/ 2012
DOMESTIC
INTL
TOTAL
COMPARING W/ 2012
2
3
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
2
3
1,220
226
1,446
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
2
3
330
270
1,600
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
2
3
290
969
1,259
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
22,500
UNDISCLOSED
4
3
670
392
1,062
-1%
11,000
7,700
18,700
+5%
2
3
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
2
3
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
1,890
0%
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
5,204
+2.5%
2
4
988
593
1,581
+0.5%
17,819
20,802
38,621
-6%
2
4
40%
60%
2,000
0%
36,712
21,126
57,838
-12%
2
3
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
UNDISCLOSED
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
D e ce m b e r 2 0 1 3
27
#9
ACCESSORIES THE SHOW
DESCRIPTION: Each and every season, AccessoriesTheShow (ATS) creates the world’s largest and most vibrant marketplace of juried accessories. For retailers, our mission is to create an inspiring and enjoyable shopping place of discovery from the latest trends to updated classics. For exhibitors, our goal is to provide a refined, elegant environment in which to conduct business with their better customers and prospects from around the globe. For both, our mission is to help our customers grow and improve their business. New York editions run concurrently with Moda, Fame, and (starting in February 2014) Edit, while Las Vegas editions run concurrently with Stitch and MRket.
Intimates, Outerwear, Petites, Plus Size, Swimwear/Resortwear.Footwear, Handbags/Totes/Wallets, Hosiery/Legwear/Socks, Jewelry, Eyewear, Hats, Scarves. CATEGORIES 2: Women’s, Men’s PRICE POINTS: Moderate/High End/Luxury FREQUENCY/ YEAR: 2 • DURATION, DAYS: 3 LOCATION: Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: ENK International ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: N/A SHOW DATES IN 2014: February TBD, September 21-23 WEB SITE AND CONTACT PHONE: www.enkshoes.com/coterie (212) 759-8055
CATEGORIES 1: AccessoriesTheShow showcases more than 37 juried product classifications every season. In addition to its primary focus of women’s fashion accessories, the show offers a very diverse mix including tech gear, travelware, watches, shoes, millinery and accessories for home and office. A special section, DesignerLab, also hosts up and coming “green” designers who are making their debut in the marketplace. CATEGORIES 2: Women’s, Men’s PRICE POINTS: Moderate/High End/Luxury FREQUENCY/YEAR: New York - 5 Las Vegas - 2 DURATION, DAYS: 3 LOCATION: Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY and Sands Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: Business Journals, Inc. ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: N/A SHOW DATES IN 2014: New York: January 5-7, February 23-25, May 4-6, August 3-5, September 21-23 • Las Vegas: February 17-19, August 18-20 WEB SITE AND CONTACT PHONE: www.accessoriestheshow.com (212) 686-4412
#5
COTERIE
DESCRIPTION: An international fashion exhibition in the U.S. featuring contemporary to traditional women’s ready-to-wear. Twice a year in New York City, concurrent with Sole Commerce and TMWR. TMWR - A showcase of tomorrow’s premier brands, highlighting fresh talent and exceptional quality. SOLE COMMERCE- A trade show dedicated exclusively to upscale footwear and handbags with the best domestic and international retailers. CATEGORIES 1: Ready-to-wear: Bridge Collections, Activewear, Contemporary Sportswear, Denim, Designer Sportswear, Eco-Friendly Collections, Eveningwear/Special Occassionwear, Loungewear/ 28
December 2013
FN PLATFORM © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
COTERIE
#2
FN PLATFORM
DESCRIPTION: The International footwear trade event where leaders and innovators converge to shape the industry, shop and sell shoes. CATEGORIES 1: Footwear, Accessories CATEGORIES 2: Women’s, Men’s, Children’s PRICE POINTS: Designer/Luxury, Contemporary, Moderate FREQUENCY/YEAR: 2 • DURATION, DAYS: 3 LOCATION: Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: Advanstar Communications
new looks of the season in four different daily fashion shows. Matching trend installations give attendees even more details and in some 20 seminars international speakers offer important know-how on key ordering trends and sector-specific themes. Held concurrently to GDS is GLOBAL SHOES, an independent communication and order platform for OEMs (Original Equipment Manufacturers) and volume suppliers. This important trade fair for the sourcing segment features international suppliers with a broad range of shoes and leather goods for the bulk market.
ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: N/A
CATEGORIES 1: Comfort, Athletic, Hiking, Slippers, Rubber Boots, Wellness Shoes, Belts, Small Leather Goods, Gloves, Bags
SHOW DATES IN 2014: February 18-20, August TBD
CATEGORIES 2: Women’s, Men’s, Children’s
WEB SITE AND CONTACT PHONE: www.fnplatform.com (877) 554-4834
PRICE POINTS: Budget/Moderate/High-End/Luxury FREQUENCY/YEAR: 2 • DURATION, DAYS: 3 LOCATION: Fairgrounds, Düsseldorf, Germany PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: Messe Düsseldorf GmbH
#6
GDS
DESCRIPTION: GDS is a leading international footwear trade fair and provides a comprehensive market overview of the progressive and also classic premium segment, of the high-selling, colorful sports and denim wear segment while presenting design newcomers and brands with broad market acceptance alongside the latest in kids’ fashion. International exhibitors present their footwear, bag and accessories collections to the international trade audience. Visitors have the opportunity to view the © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: With the new dates for GDS in July 2014 and early February 2015 GDS will become the kick-off trade fair for shoes and accessories. The name already reveals the vision underlying the new concept: GDS – Global Destination for Shoes and Accessories. Earlier dates, an even more international approach and the extension of the range to include such accessories as bags, belts, scarf and hats. The exhibition hall segmentation forms the backbone of the new GDS: instead of many different segments there will be three big Shopping Worlds called “Highstreet”, “Pop-up” and “Studio”. The segmentation was inspired by the shopping streets of famous mega-cities like London with it’s Oxford Street as the main shopping D e ce m b e r 2 0 1 3
29
destination; urban trends are best found on Neal Street and Bond Street is home to the premium brands. The second pillar of the concept is themed “15 Minutes of Fame”. The first day of the trade fair will see a special GDS Press Day for journalists. Here the trade fair will work hand in hand with exhibitors. GDS will provide the stage to be filled by the exhibitors and their brand “stagings”. Trade fair organizers will include the most exciting innovations and activities in the Press Walk – a guided PR tour for journalists that ensures maximum exposure and attention for exhibitors. And the third part of the concept is precisely about these consumers: During GDS, the city of Düsseldorf will become the Shoe & Accessory City offering numerous events and shows organized at the exhibitors’ retail partner and mono-label stores. This will turn the city into an additional communication platform for the sector. Fashion will be center stage but also topics such as sustainability, new technologies and manufacturing methods will be addressed in expert talks and exhibitions.
DESCRIPTION: Held bi-annually in Las Vegas, NV, PROJECT is the world’s preeminent contemporary fashion trade event, encompassing PROJECT, THE TENTS @ PROJECT, GROOMING @ PROJECT, and PROJECT MVMNT. Bringing expertise and relevance to the global fashion industry through a highly merchandised approach, PROJECT creates destinations where innovation, commerce and service converge.
SHOW DATES IN 2014: March 12-14, July 30-Aug 1
CATEGORIES 2: Women’s, Men’s
WEB SITE AND CONTACT PHONE: www.gds-online.com (312) 781-5180
PRICE POINTS: Moderate/High-End/Luxury
#7
PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
DESCRIPTION: Pitti Immagine Uomo is the the event that opens the calendar of men’s fashion, it’s an international trade show of clothing and accessories men’s collections and a platform for new projects in men’s fashion. CATEGORIES 1: Classic, Casual, Sportswear, Tailored, Accessories, Footwear, Denim CATEGORIES 2: Men’s PRICE POINTS: Moderate/High-End/Luxury FREQUENCY/YEAR: 2 • DURATION, DAYS: 4 LOCATION: Firenze, Italy PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: Pitti Immagine Srl ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: N/A SHOW DATES IN 2014: January 7-10 June 17-20 WEB SITE AND CONTACT PHONE: www.pittimmagine.com +39.055.3693271
#1
PROJECT SHOW
CATEGORIES 1: Premium Denim, Contemporary Sportswear, Accessories, Grooming, Footwear, Designer, Streetwear, Swim/ Activewear, Surf
FREQUENCY/YEAR: 2 • DURATION, DAYS: 3 LOCATION: Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: Advanstar Communications Inc. ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: N/A SHOW DATES IN 2014: February 18-20, August TBD WEB SITE AND CONTACT PHONE: www.projectshow.com (212) 228-8181
#3
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET
DESCRIPTION: The Atlanta Shoe Market is held in Atlanta, Georgia twice a year at the Cobb Galleria Centre and The Renaissance Waverly Hotel. This show is held “Under One Roof” and is managed by Southeastern Shoe Travelers Association which is a non profit association for manufacturer’s representatives. The show offers all attendees free daily Continental breakfasts, $5 Hot Buffet meals, seminars, free parking.
GDS
30
December 2013
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
#10
theMICAM
DESCRIPTION: TheMICAM is the international exhibition of footwear sector, promoted by Assocalzaturifici the Italian Footwear Manufacturers’ Association. CATEGORIES 1: Women sophisticated shoes, Women trendy shoes, International Designers Area, Men/Women shoes elegant-luxury, Children shoes, Young fashion shoes, Accessories for shops. CATEGORIES 2: Women’s, Men’s, Children’s PRICE POINTS: Budget/Moderate/High-End/Luxury FREQUENCY/YEAR: 2 • DURATION, DAYS: 4 LOCATION: Rho Fiera, Milan, Italy PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: A.N.C.I. Servizi Srl in conjunction with Fiera Milano Spa, and it’s promoted by Assocalzaturifici
THEMICAM
ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: Assocalzaturifici has changed the dates of the 2014/2015 theMICAM editions. The decision to hold the event earlier was taken to meet the market and business-related needs expressed by companies and buyers, boosting the event with additional relevance in the international trade show calendar. This is only part of what it will happen in theMICAM renovation process, which started with the recent name change and that will lead to a new exhibition format - currently being developed - which will be applied from the second edition of 2014. SHOW DATES IN 2014: March 2-5, August 31-Sept 3
CATEGORIES 1: Footwear, Accessories, Services CATEGORIES 2: Women’s, Men’s, Children’s PRICE POINTS: Off-Price/Budget/Moderate/High-End/Luxury
WEB SITE AND CONTACT PHONE: www.micamonline.com +39.02.438291 THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET
FREQUENCY/YEAR: 2 • DURATION, DAYS: 3 LOCATION: Cobb Galleria Centre and The Renaissance Waverly Hotel & Convention Center in Atlanta, GA PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: Southeastern Shoe Travelers Association, Inc ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: In 2014 the Atlanta Shoe Market will have a “new look” with all white fabric booths, extended hours of the show to accommodate the growing number of retailers that are attending the show. Additional space will be used to accommodate the growing number of exhibiting companies. The new Shoe Court will accommodate additional booth space as well as renting permanent mall stores for exhibits during the shows. The Kids Shoe Box” held in the Grand Ballroom features over 110 children’s brands. The Fashion Collection in the main ballroom in the Convention Centre featuring over 200 brands High End & Luxury Brands.
PROJECT
SHOW DATES IN 2014: February 13-15, June 11-12, August 23-25, December 10-11 WEB SITE AND CONTACT PHONE: www.atlantashoemarket.com (706) 923-0580 © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
D e ce m b e r 2 0 1 3
31
entrepreneur SpeCIAL reportof the month
LOCATION: Parc des Exposition, Porte de Versailles, Paris, France PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: WSN Development
ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: N/A adventure. “They were all about hunting and fishing and things I didn’t care a great deal SHOW DATES IN 2014: January 25-28, July 3-6 about,” says Hefner. Insistent on publishing WEB SITE AND CONTACT PHONE: www.whosnext.com the nude pictures of Monroe in his first issue, +33 (0)1-40-13-74-74 Hefner decided to take on the US Post Office and its anti-obscenity regulations, which until then nobody had been willing to do. In 1962, feminist Gloria Steinem worked undercover as a Playboy bunny to expose the poor working conditions of her fellow ‘bunnies’. DESCRIPTION: WWDMAGIC is part of MAGIC MARKET She was just one of many who were routinely WEEK, taking place every August and February in Las Vegas. In criticizing Hefner’s pursuits for exploiting and collaboration with the world’s most authoritative fashion publication objectifying women. But, Hefner dismissed (WWD), WWDMAGIC provides the broadest selection of women’s their claims, believing that women were in fact apparel and accessories the major beneficiaries of his sexual revolution. across every category, “It permitted them to be natural sexual beings, classification and trend. as men are,” he says. “That’s where feminism WWDMAGIC is the should have been all along.” To further support industry powerhouse for driving commerce, cultivating discovery and his beliefs, Hefner donated portions of his creating connections within the womenswear market. fortune to funding court cases in the 1950s and 60s that challenged states that still outlawed CATEGORIES 1: Apparel, Footwear, Accessories, Services WWDMAGIC birth control. These cases would eventually lead CATEGORIES 2: Women’s, Children’s to Roe v. Wade. “I was a feminist before there was such a thing as feminism.” PRICE POINTS: Budget/Moderate/High-End/Luxury Hefner contends that throughout his career But, he had dreams that he was not just going FREQUENCY/YEAR: 2 • DURATION, DAYS: 3 he has fought for sexual freedom. “One of the to let slip by the wayside. great ironies in our society is that we celebrate “First and foremost, see what it is you really LOCATION: Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV DESCRIPTION: Th e leading freedom and then limit the parts of life where to do,” says Hefner. “Hold on to the international fairwant for ready-to-wear PRODUCER(S)/ORGANIZERS: Advanstar Communications Inc. we should be most free,” he suggests. He c dreams that you have and then stay andhas accessories, specifi the WHO’S NEXT pushed the limits not only of the US Postal it.” He warns that one of the major ANTICIPATED ADDITIONS/CHANGES TO THE SHOW IN 2014: N/A is the can’t-missfocused event foronfashion Service but also of society more broadly, and for entrepreneurs is their loss of focus. professionals. It problems includes women’s SHOW DATES IN 2014: February 18-20, August TBD by staying strong in his was able It is essential that you strive towards your ready-to-wear, urban andbeliefs, men’s he fashion, accessories, shoes, leather goods, to create multi-million dollar goals, NEXT or else motivation andWEB focusSITE will easily AND CONTACT PHONE: www.magiconline.com bags and ajewelry. More than justempire a tradeand show, the WHO’S is also one of the mostof envied men in America. from its your grasps. “We are handed a life by (310) 857-7500 abecome very important source fashion trends information slip through fashion peers, parentstoand society; you can do that or shows and seminars. The concept of the WHO’S NEXT is simpleyour own dreams,” says Hefner. “Life is LESSON Be aattendees Dreamer connect 55,000#3: professional of the show withfollow the comprehensive too NEXT short toconsists be living somebody else’s dream.” “I’m a kid in the candy store,” market says Hefner. ready-to-wear and accessories place.“IThe WHO’S Hefner first set out to launch Playboy, dreamed impossible dreams. And theReady-To-Wear dreams of two main sectors: WHO’S NEXT andWhen WHO’S NEXT only fashions had $8,000 to his name. “You don’t turned out beyond could possibly Accessories. Each ofanything these twoI sectors also has creative,hebetter startbrands, a national imagine.” within- FAME, featuring 200 ready-to-wear subdivisions and magazine with that kind of money,” he reflects. “Of course, I didn’t Millions of men around PREMIERE CLASSE, with the 300world betterconsider accessories brands. The accessory know that I couldn’t do that, so I went ahead Hefner oneTh ofethe luckiest men alive, andofhe categories: WHO’S NEXT consists two main sectors: WHO’S andEach did it”. With just a table, typewriter and agrees. “I’m the luckiestand cat WHO’S on the planet,” NEXT Ready-To-Wear NEXT Accessories. of these some letterhead in his home, Hefner set about he exclaims. Lesshas to creative, do with better luck than with subdivisions two sectors also fashions withinFAME, thewith magazine. General manager, having an200 entrepreneurial andand fierce featuring ready-to-wearmind brands, PREMIEREcreating CLASSE, advertising director, determination, Hefnerbrands. knew as a teenager thatis the show 300 better accessories WHO’S NEXT primarily for and editor all in one, was undoubtedly dreaming big by he could markets, achieve great thingsproduct and he also set out women’s but men’s cantobe foundHefner in all featured thinking he could do this. But, when the first do just that. categories. 50,000 copies immediately sold out, Hefner His Midwestern, Methodist home did CATEGORIES 1: WHO’S NEXT: Leather Goods, Jewelry, Shoes & Textile knew he was onto success. “The interesting little to stimulate his creative energies, forcing Accessories. FAME: From Casual, Urban to evening Ready-To-Wear. thing is how one guy, through living out his Hefner to escape into a world of music and own fantasies, is living out the fantasies of so movies that was2: more along the lines of the life CATEGORIES Women’s, Men’s many other people,” Hefner jokes. he saw for himself. Hefner had no Hollywood PRICE POINTS: Moderate/High-End He recognizes today that it was due more connections, no publishing connections and no previous experience in world of business. FREQUENCY/YEAR: 2 •the DURATION, DAYS: 4 to his ability to dream up creative ideas than to WHO’S NEXT
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August D e c e m b20 e r132 0 1 3
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
S TARTING UP
T
he creation of your first product collection can be very exciting; however, the difficulty in the production is often underestimated. Many cre ative designers struggle with production and the development of the products. Understanding the process and conducting appropriate due diligence will not only save you time, but ultimately contribute positively to the financial success of your collection. The first step in production is researching factories to produce samples and products. Research can be very intimidating and an overwhelming part of the process, however, choosing the right factories will provide a foundation for the success of your collection. The utilization of factories specializing in the production of specific products offers many advantages and is highly recommended. Should, the collection, consist of two or more product types; it may be necessary to contract with several factories to meet quality expectations and delivery constraints. Here is a factory evaluation questionnaire to present to each factory. The following questions will assist you in the selection of factories for your product line(s):
What products can your factory produce? Prior to placing the call to the factory you will have already determined from your research that the factory promotes the production of your products, however, do not assume all categories are produced at the chosen factory. It is common to outsource to other factories products that they do not specialize in. The utilization of outsourcing or subcontracting contributes to increased cost and less quality control. Request a product catalog to view their product lines and a list of customers you may interview on their experience.
How long has your factory been operating? Avoid newly established factories. Experience and success can be key components in the longevity of a company and should be factors in your evaluation.
How long have you been providing products to companies in the United States?
FASHION LINE CREATED: Now What? By Tosha Clemens
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Often you may work with companies that are located in other countries. It is important to inquire on their prior experience in working with US Customs. Improper and incomplete documentation can delay shipments, which will result in not meeting the deadlines. This can be very detrimental to delivery timelines.
Does your company have a Research and Development department? A Research and Development department provides valuable insight for the development of your design. This department can provide suggestions on designs, development, and the production of your product line. Sourcing materials such as fabrics and trims are a significant role an R&B department can contribute. Available materials can save you the frustration and disappointment of choosing a fabric that is not available. Unavailable fabrics can be custom made to order for an increased minimum and sometimes a tooling charge is required. A tooling charge is known in the industry as a charge to make your fabric pattern or trim and this process can be very expensive.
Š FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
Does your company have a Quality Control department? While a sample is a great indicator of the quality of the product the factory will produce, it will not always guarantee a quality product line. Samples are often produced in a sample room, and the actual production is conducted in a different section of the factory. Many factors can alter the final product, such as color matching. The dye process is harder to maintain at the production level, as each dye lot varies. Minor variations are common and should be expected, and a 5% variance should be tolerated. Reject products, if construction variations are detected. A Quality Control department will ensure the products are produced to the sample expectations.
What are your product testing requirements? Product testing is required and testing requirements and protocol must be requested. State and Federal requirements must be met in order to sell your products. If your products are to be sold in many states and several countries, you must ensure that the factory adheres to the strictest requirements in order to avoid restrictions on the sale of your products. If your products are to be distributed for sale in the United States and Europe, production must ensure REACH compliance, as this is a European requirement. Research the product testing requirements and the State and Country requirements in the areas you choose to distribute. Products have different testing requirements. The most common requirements for the United States are: Lead – usually found in accessories and shoes Cadmium and Nickel – Usually found in jewelry Phthalates – usually found in rubberized components/materials Synthetic products have chemicals and a compliance letter should be requested. If the factory cannot provide a compliance letter, you may choose to have the materials tested or you may submit a sample to an independent facility for testing instructions, such as SGS.
is 7 inches and should have been produced at 10 inches. A picture with a visual arrow defining the expectations is very helpful. This will assist in providing information to correct the handle drop on the second sample.
What is the production lead-time? Production lead-time is defined as the expected timeframe for the production and delivery. If the factory states a 30-day lead-time, clarify to ensure that includes expected delivery. The understanding of the factories definition of this timeline is important.
What are your payment terms? New brands are usually expected to pay 30 percent up front, and the remainder is collected upon production completion. Telegraphic transfer (T/T), also known as a wire transfer and Letter of Credit (L/C) are used in foreign exchange and are payment options offered. Telegraphic transfer is used for small quantities sent via air. A L/C is typically used for large quantities. Both payments are issued by the buyers’ bank.
Do you operate on a Landed Duty Paid and/or Freight on Board? Landed Duty Paid (LDP) is the final cost for the goods, including shipping, duty, and custom clearance. The factory is responsible for everything up to and including delivery. Freight on Board (FOB) is the cost for the actual production, not including the shipping, duty and other fees. Most factories operate on a FOB fee structure. FOB requires your company to be responsible for shipping and handling of the goods after production. Understanding the options available will allow you to calculate an accurate cost. Answers to these questions will provide you with the necessary information to choose the appropriate factory and expedite the development and production of the product line.
What are the names of similar companies you work with? Similar company clients will provide you with confidence in the factories ability to produce a quality product similar in style, category, and price point.
What are your order minimums? Minimum orders should be defined by product, color, and style. Many factories have production minimums per style and per color.
Do you charge a Sample fee? Samples are extremely important prior to production. Most factories offer sample approval electronically; however, it is recommended the factory mail the sample for personal inspection. Often the first sample is rejected and returned with suggestions, and a second sample can be sent for final approval. This is common in the industry, and questions should be asked to determine the circumstances that led to the incorrect first sample. Language barriers can be the largest contributor. Visual comments and photos can assist in overcoming miscommunication and clarification. An example for providing clarification could be the handle drop on a handbag
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
Tosha has over 10 years’ experience in fashion production, product development, design, and sourcing. She has represented top companies that include, BEBE, Wet Seal, Fredrick’s of Hollywood, and Fox Racing. She provides consulting and also is a contributing fashion writer for several websites and the founder of www.NittyGrittyFashion.com www.ToshaClemens.com www.Facebook.com/ ToshaColeClemens
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TREN DING
New Denim
REVOLUTION nything can change and everything eventually will. Take denim, for example. This traditionally 100% cotton jean material of today is quiet different than it was 10-20-30 years ago and tomorrow
POETIC JUSTICE
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December 2013
it will be very much different from today’s. Implementing new technologies, new chemicals, new processes involved into making a pair of jeans has dramatically changed the look and the performance of the finished product. At the recent iSKO insider event for denim professionals, organized by iSKO, a producer of more than 200 million meters of fabric each year and supplies the denim used to create jeans for J Brand, Made in Heaven, 3x1, Diesel and Hudson, the audience was introduced to the latest news in textile manufacture and treatments that are going to transform the jeans as we know it in the near future. In short, the upcoming key trends in denim could be described as STRETCH & COMFORT in variations, when the jeans will make you look slimmer without dieting, be comfortable like pajamas while still having a tailored look, and even protect you from the cold and heat. Such breakthroughs in textile go hand in hand with research and innovation in polymers, particularly LYCR A and COOLMAX. The new XFit LYCR A technology uses innovative LYCR A T400 fiber allowing fabrics to stretch in all directions, have less shrinkage and impeccable recovery for 360 degree comfort and a perfect fit. Initially, Men’s designers only had the option to select from Women’s high elastic fabrics because there weren’t any available specifically developed for the Men’s market. This trend has caused iSKO to create and develop a special line of Men’s stretch fabrics such as iSKO XMEN’S™ and LOOMFX™. These special collections of Men’s stretch denim were developed never sacrificing the authentic rigid look built with invisible high elastic stretch. In Women’s stretch the expectations have been raised significantly. Not only does the fabric have to look aesthetically
JANICE DICKINSON FOR SONAS DENIM
perfect, the fabric has to have added benefits built in such as super softness and comfort, flexibility, breathability, and slimming effects. Anticipating these needs in the Women’s markets, iSKO™ has created fabrics such as iSKO Reform™, RECALL IN SHAPE™, and iSKO PJ SOFT™ to answer these needs.
Fabrics INNOVATIONS: iSKO Reform™ • Exclusive stretch technology that actually enhances the wearers shape, giving you your smoothest, slimmest, sexiest “Photoshop” appearance; • Creates a unique “holding power”, where garments keep their shape wear after wear; • True denim look and feel
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
iSKO Slow Fade™ Created using 100% indigo, resists fading in the home laundry. The exclusive dye processing technique affixes the indigo to the cotton stronger than by traditional methods, thus making jeans retaining the brand-new look for longer time. The process produces exceptional finishing results creating a rich, three-dimensional finish.
iSKO XMEN’S™ Engineered to be a super-power stretch that’s truly rugged and masculine, offers the most authentic denim look in high-elastic stretch fabrics. With clearly visible twill lines, iSKO XMEN’S™ is designed for the highest level of aesthetics. It’s perfect for skinny, slim and straight fits, offering design and silhouette opportunities previously not possible in men’s denim.
iSKO PJ Soft™ With this smooth, supple stretch denim that molds and moves with the body, you get the most comfortable jean ever. Combining the holding power of iSKO Reform™ with even more softness and flexibility, the fabric offers day-to-night wearability without ever feeling restricted. Supported by Modal, a sustainable and resilient fiber, iSKO PJ Soft™ keeps its softness even through extensive laundry processing.
HYDROCOAT Offers slick feel and appearance of ultra-soft polished wet leather – inside and out, with exceptional comfort and wearability. HYDROCOAT brings out more visual variety with its one-, and two-dimensional surface effects, subtle textured patterns and watermark designs.
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
SONAS DENIM
POETIC JUSTICE
D e ce m b e r 2 0 1 3
37
work pl ace
Is Your
Coworker a Jerk,
or Does He Need a Doctor? By Barbara Jaurequi, MS, LMFT, MAC
Most Americans spend the bulk of their waking hours at work. Some say that Americans’ “best” hours are given to their employers. If workers like their jobs and/or workplace, they can accept that reality without a fight. Yet, when employees find themselves working with really difficult people, life at work can be extra trying or downright exasperating! Why certain people are “really difficult” isn’t always clear. It’s true that some people are simply annoying or interpersonally inept. However, some difficult coworkers may be legitimately mentally ill and in need of professional intervention. Consider that, according to the National Association of Mental Health, incidences of mental illness in the workplace are not uncommon. The NAMH reports that an estimated 26.2 percent of Americans ages 18 and older — about one in four adults — suffer from a diagnosable mental disorder in a given year. For example, Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD), a mental illness that can be well managed when treated properly, occurs in 4% of American adults and mood disorders including Major Depression, Mania and Bi Polar Disorder occur in 9.5% of American adults, all of which can trigger undesirable behaviors in workers. Likewise, certain Personality Disorders, such as Borderline Personality Disorder (BPD) and Narcissistic Personality Disorder (NPD), can cause the sufferers to demonstrate symptoms remarkably similar to the personal traits of someone
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who is simply obnoxious. Based on the statistics above, it’s not at all unlikely that at some point we may find ourselves working side by side with a person who is clinically mentally ill. Differentiating between clinical symptoms and personal traits can be tricky; only a licensed therapist or a medical doctor should be diagnosing mental illness. Recognizing the difference between people with legitimate Personality Disorders and people with chronic “Jerkitis” is a bit tougher; you have to know what you’re looking for. How can workers tell the difference between someone who needs mental help and a garden variety jerk?
aDHD ADHD can cause sufferers to be irritable, careless, hyper, forgetful, disorganized, extremely talkative and distractible. A non-ADHD “jerk,” however, would not necessarily demonstrate all these symptoms simultaneously. She may talk your ear off when you need to get back to work. She may “forget” to do certain tasks because she’s lazy, rather than careless. She might keep her desk a mess because it doesn’t bother her to have it messy.
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Mood Disorders A mood-disordered individual with Major Depression, for example, may demonstrate excessive lethargy that is chronic and changes little from day to day. A non-Mood-Disordered jerk might just be a slacker and feign low-energy to get out of doing her fair share of work.
Borderline personality Disorder People with BPD struggle to maintain stable relationships, including relationships with coworkers. They vacillate between idealizing their coworkers and demonizing them. Borderlines are highly defensive and tend to demonize those who criticize them. Ultimately, they see themselves through the eyes of others and have a very weak sense of self, which facilitates the development of unstable relationships across all relationship sectors. Obnoxious coworkers don’t necessarily have unstable relationships in all realms of their lives. They may take more credit for accomplishments than they deserve; they may brag about their successes. But, once again, those things just make for obnoxious coworkers. It’s important to note that BPD affects a very small portion of the population (approximately 6% per the Diagnostic Statistical Manual IV) so bear in mind that your extremely annoying coworker may not be mentally ill.
Narcissistic personality Disorder A person with NPD is different from a coworker who is conceited and selfish. A clinically diagnosed narcissist knowingly exploits others for his own personal gain without remorse because he sees it as necessary to get what he wants. He is miserably unhappy when the spotlight is removed from him. He feels entitled to special treatment and is obsessed with his “wonderfulness.” A non-NPD jerk doesn’t exploit others without guilt or internal conflict. He would typically feel some remorse and shame for exploitive behavior and might even apologize. Narcissists rarely (i.e., never) apologize. A jerk can be fair. He may grumble about certain parameters, but he typically follows the rules. He may brag about himself but doesn’t go out of his way to elicit compliments from others, as would a narcissist. Furthermore, he is not devastated when excessive praise does not come his way. And NPD is fairly rare; only 6.2% of Americans are clinically diagnosed with the disorder as per the Diagnostic Statistical Manual IV.
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
It’s important to note that other medical problems can cause coworkers to behave in ways that are unusual and concerning or annoying and obnoxious. Brain tumors, head injuries, medication side-effects, hormonal imbalances, and stress can all trigger troublesome behaviors. So it’s important that employers and employees alike not jump to conclusions when suspecting a fellow worker is suffering from a mental illness. If, however, you suspect mental illness in a coworker, subordinate or supervisor, you need to determine if you can or want to handle the challenges presented when working with that person. Keep in mind the following: If a coworker is the problem, it’s best to take suspicions to a supervisor rather than confronting the coworker directly. If a subordinate is the cause of the workplace disturbance, deal with it directly but with sensitivity. Be observational in a non-confrontational way. For example, don’t say “You clearly have a personality disorder” say “I’ve noticed that your attitudes and behaviors change significantly from day to day and I’d like to talk to you about that privately.” Be relaxed when addressing the issue. If a supervisor is relaxed and approachable, suffering staffers are more likely to open up. If the employee acknowledges that there is a problem, help him or her make a plan for recovery and/or symptom management. Talk about some job-related goals the employee can tackle once the disorder is under control. When a troubled employee has something to look forward to, he or she is more likely to follow through on getting necessary treatment. If it’s a really difficult supervisor employees are working with, they may need to consider all their options, up to and including transferring, changing positions or leaving the company entirely. One last thought workers may want to ponder: if one is currently sane but working in a crazy environment, it may only be a matter of time before he himself becomes mentally ill, or quite possibly, becomes a jerk! It’s better to face the problem head on than expect it to go away on its own because, without help, mental illness gets progressively worse over time. And of course, left unchecked, jerk-like behavior will continue to serve as an energy vacuum in your workplace.
Barbara Jaurequi, a Licensed Marriage and Family Therapist and Nationally Certified Master Addiction Counselor, speaks on a variety of personal and professional topics and is the author of A.C.E.S. – Adult-Child Entitlement Syndrome, available on Amazon and other online booksellers. A.C.E.S. teaches parents of adult-children how to compassionately launch their adultchildren into the world of personal responsibility in a straight-forward step-by-step approach. Contact Ms. Jaurequi by email at Barbara@ BarbaraJPublications.com or phone her office at 909-944-6611.
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red
from the
CARPETS
Ralph Lauren hosted a Fall 13 Collection show and private dinner in celebration of restoration project and patron sponsorship of LíEcole des Beaux-Arts in Paris, October 8, 2013 Actress Cherie Chung wore Ralph Lauren Collection black sable evening strapless dress, Ralph Lauren Fine Jewelry Monogram choker and Ralph Lauren Fine Watchmaking Slim Classique in 18K rose gold and white diamonds.
organdy silk layers, and Catherine Deneuve in Ralph Lauren Collection beaded evening skirt and cashmere top.
RALPH LAUREN and wife RICKY LAUREN
Ralph Lauren and wife Ricky Lauren in Ralph Lauren Collection black silk taffeta skirt and black jersey bodysuit. Andrew Lauren and wife Dylan Lauren in Ralph Lauren Collection silk georgette bustier evening dress. David Lauren and wife Lauren Bush Lauren in Ralph Lauren Collection black silk cady evening dress. H.S.H. The Princess Charlene of Monaco with actress Catherine Deneuve. Princess Charlene wore Ralph Lauren Collection custom amethyst silk taffeta evening dress with organza and
PRINCESS CHARLENE OF MONACO and CATHERINE DENEUVE
ANDREW LAUREN and wife DYLAN LAUREN
Spotted at the party at the Sofitel Beverly Hills October 2013 (L to R). Actress, model KD AMBERT (Fanta commercial, Scorpion king) wearing Royal Blue asymmetrical hi-lo number mini dress by Alex Monsanto, accented with gold metallic belt. Editor ALEX GEYMAN. OLGA ALEKSA K (Miss Russian LA 2013) wearing Alex Monsantoís Royal Blue one-leg caftan in Moon Shadow paired with a half- front gold metallic belt. JANINE TUGUNON (First Runner-Up Miss Universe Philippines 2012) wearing bright red One-Piece jumpsuit with drape fronts and racer back accented with laser cut black flowers on the neckline 40
December 2013
CHERIE CHUNG
DAVID LAUREN and wife LAUREN BUSH LAUREN
Singer RITA ORA, model KATE MOSS and model GEORGIA MAY JAGGER attend the Rimmel London 180 Years of Cool party at the London Film Museum on October 10, 2013
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
Giorgio Armani Dresses 65th Emmy Awards Participants Giorgio Armani dressed select nominees, presenters and attendees at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards on September 22nd in Los Angeles. Claire Danes wore a Giorgio Armani Prive ethereal nude flared gown featuring a tulle bodice embroidered with sequins. The full crinoline lace skirt is accented with a woven horizontal ribbon motif, creating a romantic effect.
MATT DAMON
Jon Hamm wore a Giorgio Armani ivory one-button peak lapel dinner jacket, classic evening pants and a classic evening shirt with a bow tie.
MICHAEL DOUGLAS
Matt Damon wore a Giorgio Armani black two-button peak lapel tuxedo with a classic evening shirt and a bow tie.
JON HAMM
CLAIRE DANES
Actress CATE BLANCHETT wore a nude Giorgio Armani Privä custom made a crinoline lace cocktail dress with plunging neckline at the 51st New York Film Festival Š FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
December 2013
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and
Celebrities
FASHION
P R O D U C T
E N D O R S E M E N T
GWEN STEFANI
CHARLIZE THERON
GEORGE CLOONEY
Tom Ford Dresses the faces of the Most Important Stars Known Worldwide JESSICA BIEL
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Tom Ford continues to stand out as leader in the field of eyewear his sunglasses and eyeglasses are a must have among celebrities. Recently, Charlize Theron, Jessica Biel and Gwen Stefani, were photographed wearing them in their private life and George Clooney wore a pair on the set of his next film. Tom Ford Eyewear, produced and distributed worldwide exclusively by Marcolin, with its own innovative proposals that express the iconic elements of the brand characterized by classical shapes, vintage cues and modern manufacturing, has always been the reflection of a minimalistic luxury and attention to detail. Š FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
JOHN TRAVOLTA and soccer player DAVID BECKHAM at the Breitling Boutique opening in London, June 27, 2013 TRAVOLTA is wearing Breitling Navitimer Blue Sky, BECKHAM is wearing Breitling Transocean Chronograph Unitime in rose gold with a black dial.
CLIVE OWEN posing with his platinum JaegerLeCoultre chronograph while visiting watchmaker’s factory in Switzerland.
DIANE KRUGER is photographed for JaegerLeCoultre on May 6, 2013 in New York City. (Photo by Andrew H. WalkerGetty Images for Jaeger-LeCoultre)
© FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
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IN V E S TMENT REPORT
The American Customer Satisfaction Index T he American Customer Satisfaction Index (ACSI) is an independent national benchmark of customer satisfaction with the quality of products and services available to household consumers in the United States. ACSI results are strongly related to a number of essential indicators of micro and macroeconomic performance.
Practical use of this report At the micro level, companies with high levels of customer satisfaction tend to have higher earnings and stock returns relative to competitors. At the macro level, customer satisfaction has been shown to be predictive of both consumer spending and GDP growth.
but the other major brands are not far behind. V.F. slips 1% to 81 to tie Hanesbrands, while Jones Group retreats again a year after rising to a tie for the industry lead. A year ago Jones reversed a three-year plunge from first to worst. Now, it is reversing course again. Sales have been weak for its two largest brands, Jones New York and Nine West, which make up 40% of the company’s sales. As is the case with most nondurables products, only the aggregate of smaller companies, including store brands, lags the industry, with price markdowns not enough to offset lower quality, as judged by customers.
Apparel • ACSI Scores
Athletic Shoes Customer satisfaction with athletic footwear improves 1.3% to an ACSI benchmark of 81. The aggregate of smaller brands, including Skechers and New Balance, leads the category following a 4% gain to 83, while the major brands Adidas and Nike trail behind.
Athletic Shoes • ACSI Scores Company Athletic Shoes All Others Adidas Nike
2012
2013
% Change
80 80 77 80
81 83 80 78
1.3% 4% 4% -3%
Adidas, which includes the Reebok brand, rebounds 4% to 80 after a drop a year ago. But this comes at a time when the company’s U.S. market share is shrinking, especially for Reebok. Reebok’s line of toning shoes was not well received by the market and quality and durability have left something to be desired, according to customers. Adidas plans to position Reebok as a fitness rather than a sports brand, but for now, the improved customer satisfaction might well be indicative of simply losing the most dissatisfied customers. By contrast, Nike falls to the bottom of the category, even as it has gained market share—the broader and the more diverse the customer base, the more difficult it becomes to appeal to all.
Apparel After back-to-back years of decline due to price increases, customer satisfaction with apparel levels off at an ACSI benchmark of 79, which remains a 15-year low. Apparel prices rose 1.8%, somewhat more than the Consumer Price Index, as companies pass on to consumers the higher costs of raw materials, shipping costs and labor in China and elsewhere. Levi Strauss tops the category, unchanged at an ACSI benchmark of 82, 44
December 2013
Company Apparel Levi Strauss V.F. Hanesbrands Jones Group All Others
2012
2013
% Change
79 82 82 79 79 79
79 82 81 81 78 78
0.0% 0% -1% 3% -2% -1%
About this Report The ACSI Nondurable Products Report 2013 is based on interviews with 5,967 customers, chosen at random and contacted via telephone and email between July 10 and September 4, 2013. Customers are asked to evaluate their experiences with recently purchased products manufactured by the largest companies in terms of market share, plus an aggregate category consisting of “all other”— and thus smaller — manufacturers. The survey data are used as inputs to ACSI’s cause-andeffect econometric model, which estimates customer satisfaction as the result of the survey-measured inputs of customer expectations, perceptions of quality, and perceptions of value. The ACSI model, in turn, links customer satisfaction with the survey-measured outcomes of customer complaints and customer loyalty. ACSI clients receive confidential industry-competitive and best-in-class data on all modeled variables and customer experience benchmarks. View the complete report at: http://www.theacsi.org/news-and-resources/ customer-satisfaction-reports/customer-satisfaction-reports-2013/acsinondurable-products-report-2013. © FFR - Focus On Fashion Retail
For those of us who plan around our shoes.
January 21-23, 2014 | Pier 94, NYC New York’s First Men’s Contemporary Footwear Destination
February 18-20, 2014 | Las Vegas Convention Center, South Hall The International Show for Branded Footwear
February 17-20, 2014 | Las Vegas Convention Center, North Hall The Only Show Dedicated to Fast Fashion Footwear
Feb 23-25, 2014 | Javits Center, NYC The Women’s Luxury Footwear Show within Fashion Coterie
magiconline.com
JOB INTERV IE W
3 Job Interview Myths Learn the truth before your next job interview by Charles Purdy,
Monster + HotJobs Senior Editor Think you know all there is to know about interviewing for a job? According to career coach David Couper, there are many surprising “myths” surrounding job interviews that, if you believe them, may prevent you from landing your dream job. So here’s the truth about three myths as well as several tips on making the most of a job interview:
Myth 1: The interviewer is prepared. “The person interviewing you is likely overworked and stressed because he needs to hire someone,” says Couper. “He may have barely glanced at your resume and given no thought to your qualifications.” What you can do: Think of a job opening as a set of problems — to which you are the solution. Prepare for an interview by identifying the problems hinted at in the job ad (if there’s no job ad, do some research into the company and industry) and preparing examples of how you’ll solve them. For instance, if one of the primary job requirements is “write press releases,” the problem the employer has is a lack of effective press releases. For the interview, you could prepare a story about specific results you’ve achieved with press releases you’ve written. Show how you can solve that problem.
Myth 2: The interviewer will ask the right questions. “Many interviewers prepare no questions beyond ‘Tell me about yourself,’” says Couper. And in some cases, you may be interviewed with a human resources representative or a high-level manager who doesn’t have a lot of specific information about the open job’s duties. What you can do: Prepare several effective sound bites that highlight your past successes and your skills. A sound bite is succinct and not too detailed, so it’s catchy and easy to remember —”I was the company’s top
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salesperson for eight months in 2008,” for example. Reference letters are another great source of sound bites. If a former manager wrote something about how amazing you are, quote her (and offer to leave a copy of the reference letter when you leave the interview) — for instance, “Company Z’s art director called me the most thorough and well-prepared project manager she’d ever worked with — and that ability to plan for any possible problem is something I pride myself on.”
Myth 3: The most qualified person gets the job. No one believes this myth any more, right? As Couper says, “Less-qualified but more outgoing candidates may win over an interviewer’s heart.” What you can do: If you’re on the shy side, practicing before an interview is key. Work with a close friend or relative until you’re comfortable with your interview answers. You never want to be stuck with a short, one-word answer--so prepare explanations and examples to discuss. Also do some research about the interviewer beforehand: find her profile on LinkedIn for instance, or look for recent news about the company. Find a reason to compliment her (for a professional accomplishment) or her company’s success, to set the tone for a friendly interaction. And don’t forget to smile and make eye contact. And finally, keep in mind that looks matter: you should be well groomed and dressed to impress. If you’re not sure how formal your attire should be, ask the human resources person you’ve been dealing with what’s typical. Alternatively, find someone inside the company to ask, or check out the About Us page on the company’s website. If the management team is pictured in dark suits, neckties, and so on, you’ll likely want to dress as formally as possible. If the CEO is pictured in a T-shirt, business-casual clothes are fine (you’ll rarely want to dress more casual than that).
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