HH Mag 2016 EN by Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

MAG

HH JOURNAL GET TO KNOW EVERYTHING ABOUT FINE WATCHES, EVENTS AND TRENDS NEW EDITORIAL LINE, NEW DESIGN NEW NAME

FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE 2016

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FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE 2016

10/12/15 17:56

EDITORIAL

igital is a wonderful tool for work, leisure, communicating or imparting information, but digital is not high-end. The images we view on a screen can fill us with emotion, inspire and enrich us, but the screen is not high-end. Whereas a beautifully crafted book is. Were we to transfer the book's content, with all its power of suggestion, to digital, it would no longer have the same

force. And that's not all. “Paper is the technology with which we have made sense of the world,” writes the British literary critic Ian Sansom. If we were to abandon paper, what would we really stand to lose? Memory, creativity, projects, identity… Paper has made history. Without it, there would be no modern economies, built on paper money; no world as we know it, discovered thanks to maps; no democracy, founded on parliaments that draft laws, citizens who vote and newspapers that publish information; there would be no literature, no art, no science, passed down over thousands of years on written and printed paper. Knowing this should be enough to keep the digital apocalypse so many fear at bay, although such a fear is, in my opinion, unfounded. A fine watch is a high-end product because it encapsulates qualities such as tradition and innovation, originality and authenticity, research and talent, rarity and daring. The Apple Watch may be new, complex and costly, but it isn't high-end. These are two types of watch which satisfy different requirements and are intended for different users, including different generations. And because the future has room for all, they can peacefully coexist, while the debate as to which of the two will prevail continues to rage. A media debate with little practical purpose, and no winners or losers. The FHH can count on both paper, such as our HH Mag, and digital resources for its communication, with neither one undermining the other. It of course makes sense to pass on information digitally, given the speed the material reaches a wide and eager audience, yet I remain convinced - and what if I do come across as the old-fashioned eccentric who reads his newspaper over breakfast - that a certain category of authentic, quality communication, like the definition of a “status”, still requires the printed page. Neuroscientists tell us we have a better recollection of something we see on paper, because our brain interprets the printed page as a physical map with the different elements positioned spatially on it. And so when it comes to conveying concepts, digital proves inadequate; paper prevails. The future is the theme of this fifth HH Mag, whose printed pages you are browsing. Because on digital alone, the future would not have the same force.

FRANCO COLOGNI

CONTENTS 34 A JOURNEY INTO FINE WATCHMAKING

R&D, PRODUCTION AND TECHNICAL EXPERTISE

52 QUALITY LABELS POINT THE WAY

T E X T: M I C H E L J E A N N OT

HISTORY/DNA

T E X T: E L I Z A B E T H D O E R R

40 HISTORY IT’S ALL IN (ON) THE WRIST

DISTRIBUTION

T E X T: A L B E R TO G E R O S A

58 ONLINE OR OFF? THE DISTRIBUTION DILEMMA

STYLE/DESIGN AND ARTISTIC EXPERTISE

T E X T: PI E R R E M A I L L A R D

46 SWISS vs. SMART T E X T: B E N JA M I N C LY M E R

76 SLIM D’HERMÈS U N M O U V E M E N T V E R S L’ E S S E N T I E L

slimdhermes.com

LMH_HQ • Visual: Slim Or Rose • Magazine: HH Novembre (CH) • Language: French • Doc size: 210 x 297 mm • Calitho #: 11-15-113530 • AOS #: HER_01497 • EB 10/11/2015

80 7TH FORUM DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE

BRAND IMAGE AND COMMUNICATION

64 STAR POWER

T E X T: A L B E R TO CAVA L L I

T E X T: S E A N L I

84 PHENOMENOLOGY OF THE SMARTWATCH

CONNOISSEURS AND COLLECTORS

70 THE LURE OF COLLECTING

MIX & REMIX

T E X T: AU R O M O N TA N A R I

TRAINING

76 HH CERTIFICATION KNOWLEDGE IS A STRENGHT T E X T: J O E T H O M P S O N

THE MAGIC LENS OF LAZIZ HAMANI LEADS US ON A STELLAR JOURNEY THROUGH THE BRIGHTEST CONSTELLATIONS IN THE FINE WATCHMAKING UNIVERSE: TWENTY-SIX WORLDS, EACH ILLUMINATED BY A CREATION FROM OUR PARTNER BRANDS THAT SPARKLE, YEAR AFTER YEAR, WITH ELEGANCE, INGENUITY AND CREATIVITY.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER Hours and minutes in a jumping numerals display, subsidiary seconds, decimal minute repeater, power-reserve indicator. Hand-wound movement.

CHRISTOPHE CLARET AVENTICUM Hours, minutes, mirascope. Self-winding movement.

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CONCEPT RD#1 Hours, minutes, chronograph, minute repeater, tourbillon. Hand-wound movement.

DE BETHUNE DBS TOURBILLON Hours, minutes, tourbillon. Hand-wound movement.

BAUME & MERCIER PROMESSE 10199 Hours, minutes. Quartz movement.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 THE CHAMBER OF WONDERS – THE PEARL OF WONDERS Hours, minutes. Self-winding movement.

BOVET AMADEO® FLEURIER MONSIEUR BOVET Hours, minutes, patented coaxial seconds with reverse hand-fitting, 7-day power-reserve indicator, two faces. Hand-wound movement.

GREUBEL FORSEY TOURBILLON 24 SECONDES VISION Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, tourbillon. Hand-wound movement.

CARTIER ASTROTOURBILLON SKELETON Hours, minutes, flying astrotourbillon with skeletonized bridges forming Roman numerals. Hand-wound movement.

HERMÈS SLIM D’HERMÈS Hours, minutes, small seconds. Ultra-thin self-winding movement.

CHANEL J12 FLYING TOURBILLON SKELETON Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon. Hand-wound movement.

IWC PORTUGIESER ANNUAL CALENDAR – CALIBRE 52850 Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, annual calendar, power-reserve indicator. Self-winding movement.

CHOPARD L.U.C REGULATOR Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, GMT over 24 hours, power-reserve indicator, date. Hand-wound movement chronometer-certified by the COSC and Poinçon de Genève.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CALENDAR Hours, minutes, small seconds, complete calendar, moon phases. Meteorite dial. Self-winding movement.

LOUIS VUITTON ESCALE TIME ZONE Hours, minutes, 24 time zones. Self-winding movement.

RICHARD MILLE RM 07-01 Hours, minutes. Self-winding movement with variable geometry rotor.

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE 101 FROST Hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator. Monumental suspended balance wheel dominating the dial. Hand-wound movement.

ROGER DUBUIS HOMMAGE DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON Hours, minutes, double flying tourbillon. Self-winding movement with Poinçon de Genève certification.

MONTBLANC HERITAGE CHRONOMÉTRIE EXOTOURBILLON MINUTE CHRONOGRAPH Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, stop-second mechanism, ExoTourbillon. Self-winding movement.

TAG HEUER CARRERA HEUER 01 Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, date, chronograph. Self-winding movement.

OFFICINE PANERAI LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 CARBOTECH 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC – 47 MM Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, date, calculation of immersion time. Self-winding movement.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN HARMONY CHRONOGRAPH Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, power-reserve indicator. Manual calibre with Hallmark of Geneva certification. Limited edition.

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA 1950 SQUELETTE Hours, minutes. Self-winding movement.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS CADENAS SERTIE BRACELET OR Hours, minutes. Quartz movement.

PIAGET PIAGET ALTIPLANO CHRONOGRAPH, 41 MM Hours, minutes, dual time zone, flyback chronograph. Ultra-thin hand-wound movement.

RALPH LAUREN RL AUTOMOTIVE SKELETON Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds. Hand-wound movement.

Photo: Ben Hupfer/Corbis

A JOURNEY INTO FINE WATCHMAKING TEXT: MICHEL JEANNOT IS IT POSSIBLE TO DEFINE THE CONTOURS OF FINE WATCHMAKING? MUCH HAS BEEN SAID, AND WRITTEN, ABOUT THE QUESTION EVER SINCE THE FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE SET ITSELF THIS VERY TASK. TO PUT AN END TO THE MATTER, FORTY EXPERTS EMBARKED ON A JOURNEY THAT TOOK THEM TO THE CONFINES OF THIS NEBULA. TO EXPLORE ITS CONTOURS AND STUDY UP-CLOSE THE ASPIRING PLANET-BRANDS. THEY RETURNED WITH AN EFFICIENT EVALUATION GRID AND MEASURED A LIST OF HOPEFULS AGAINST IT. THIS IS THE STORY OF THEIR VOYAGE INTO FINE WATCHMAKING.

n an article that appeared in the 2013 edition of

tentative definitions later, the Fondation is tackling the subject

HH Mag, we broached the matter from an entirely

anew, but this time with new means and methods.

subjective point of view. We imagined fine watchmaking

A Cultural Council – entirely independent of the brands –

as an infinite universe with shifting contours. A universe

thus shoulders the responsibility not only to define what fine

filled with stars – some mere flashes in the sky – that we could

watchmaking is, but to imagine an evaluation grid which it

perceive differently depending on the day and the vantage point

can then use to sift through the brands that potentially meet

we adopted. We ended with this magnificent line from Saint-

fine watchmaking's requirements. The FHH gave the Cultural

Exupéry’s The Little Prince: “Here is my secret, a very simple

Council two priorities: “Its first, crucial role was to produce a

secret. It is only with the heart that one can see rightly. What is

single, indisputable definition of fine watchmaking and, working

essential is invisible to the eye.” Needless to say, this failed to

from this, define its perimeter, namely a list of brands and

convince the rational beings that we are, obsessively classifying

creators in fine watchmaking.”

and constantly in search of answers which, if not intelligible,

With this objective in mind, the FHH appointed forty experts to

are at least final. Perhaps not so very far from the Little Prince's

this new Cultural Council, each representing particular areas

own concerns, for years the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

of expertise – including history, production, R&D, distribution,

(FHH) has pursued its mission to define what constitutes

communication and training – according to their individual

fine watchmaking, an activity it defends and promotes while

competencies and experience. These areas of expertise

proclaiming its cultural dimension. A mission that is easily

correspond to the fundamental criteria which the Council has

stated but less easy to bring to fruition. Several years and a few

identified as constituent of fine watchmaking.

IT'S WHAT YOU DO THAT COUNTS

common ground of fine watchmaking. The same holds true for

After almost two years of regular discussions, these forty

luxury brands and independent creators: where you are from

experts agreed on a definition which takes in the most essential

matters less than what you do.

points: “Fine Watchmaking is excellence in watchmaking, the techniques of watchmaking in symbiosis with the applied arts.”

EYES SKYWARD

Short and to the point, but a little too concise. Of course, the

To this end, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Cultural

Cultural Council went much further in its endeavour to pinpoint

Council divided into four groups those watch brands

the reality of what fine watchmaking entails. It worked on a

that warrant evaluation as potential members of the fine

much broader, more comprehensive definition (which can be

watchmaking perimeter. These four categories are as follows:

read in the White Paper on Fine Watchmaking, a numbered,

historic maisons, contemporary brands, luxury brands, and

limited-edition publication that describes the procedures put

artisan-creators. An accurate reflection of the situation within

in place). More importantly, it singled out certain values which

the manufactures and in the markets, this segmentation

it saw as forming the bedrock of fine watchmaking, namely

ensures that no candidate can be eliminated on the grounds it

identity, authenticity, originality, legitimacy and ethics.

is too recent, too small, or made its name in a different domain.

These forty experts took off on an intersidereal voyage to probe

Another of its advantages is that the evaluation grid can be

the nebula that is fine watchmaking. Multiple spaceships, for

adjusted to suit the nature of the candidate in question. One

multiple points of view, lifted off in the second half of 2014 for a

example: how is it possible to judge a contender's “historic”

journey to the stars! On closer scrutiny, these forty astronauts

value using exactly the same criteria for a long-established

were able to precisely distinguish the characteristics of the

name as for a contemporary firm? This categorisation provides

planets observed, study their differences, note how the ones

a means of evaluating brands according to their individual

that appear to dominate sometimes shrank in size when

nature, rather than in the light of a single, non-negotiable

viewed from a different point in space, observe the force of

canon, imposed by one or other authority.

attraction of some and spot the satellites that gravitate around

Thus enlightened, and with the framework now in place, the

others; they took note of certain planets' singularities, beauty,

forty astronaut-experts looked to the sky and considered the

almost perfectly spherical shape, but also their dark side and

stars, or rather the first group of brands to come under the

unkept promises; last of all they were dazzled by stars, saw

scrutiny of the evaluation grid. Each received an objective

how the brightest were not always the most fascinating, and

evaluation by the various groups of experts, working within a

were careful not to be taken in by the many shooting stars…

given area of expertise. With each area considering a range of

After months spent floating through space, these astronauts on

criteria, every brand was ultimately assessed on some thirty

a mission to investigate fine watchmaking returned to Earth with

points. At the end of this objective evaluation, each brand was

a new experience under their belt. And a wealth of information

awarded a score.

plucked from the stars. They had observed how each planet

The second score corresponds to the personal global

within this intersidereal space had its own distinct character,

appreciation of each brand by these same experts. Any

and that to want to enter them all into the same category was

system is open to criticism, but in this case to have appointed

a delicate task. Armed with this knowledge, they were able

forty specialists, all independent of the brands, proves this is a

to demonstrate once and for all that fine watchmaking is not

serious evaluation. Even if some element of subjectivity cannot

a single, indivisible entity but rather that it encompasses a

be entirely ruled out, sheer weight of number produces a result

multitude of rich and varied realities. Yet while there is no single

that is as close to complete objectivity as it is possible to be.

set of credentials, not just anyone can claim to belong. But let

The objective evaluation and the experts' subjective appreciation

us look reality in the eye and consider that storied brands and

produces a final score for each brand. This score determines

their younger, contemporary counterparts can meet within a

whether the brand is potentially within the fine watchmaking

Photo: Ben Hupfer/Corbis

perimeter, whether it is waiting in the wings, or whether it falls

question become more involved and may, should they wish,

clearly outside the required criteria. Even then, the FHH and its

supply information that could be of use in their evaluation.

Cultural Council decided to take the process a step further: a

This second stage will end some twelve months later with the

brand is entitled to meet the experts and discuss – face to face

publication of the new fine watchmaking perimeter.

and in strict confidentiality – its evaluation. Democracy rules!

Clearly then, this is and will remain an evolutive process. A brand which attains a score placing it within the fine

NOTHING EVER STAYS THE SAME

watchmaking perimeter will not necessarily always obtain

The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Cultural Council has

identical results, and could one day be taken out of this

done more than propose a definition of fine watchmaking and

prestigious circle. Meanwhile, a brand that is initially assigned

an evaluation grid with which to score brands; it has succeeded

to what football fans might call the “second division” might

in implementing a system which, like the universe, is non-

one day, on condition its practices or ambitions evolve, aspire

finite, open, evolving, and therefore able to adapt to changing

to join the company of fine watch brands. A system that

reality. Because fine watchmaking, like the universe, is not an

motivates some while never allowing others to rest on their

immovable reality and the evaluation system takes this essential

laurels. Hence this will be a photograph of fine watchmaking

factor perfectly into consideration. To this effect, and after the

at a given moment in time. A photograph that will, by nature,

initial stage of evaluation and discussion, the working method

be different from what it would have been twenty years ago

and the analysed criteria were refined prior to the second stage

or what it may be in the future. Rendezvous in about a year's

of evaluation by the Cultural Council, beginning early 2016. At

time to discover the new fine watchmaking perimeter, as

this point and in the interests of transparency, the brands in

defined by the Cultural Council.

Photo: Silvia Badalotti

HISTORY/DNA An essential part of watchmaking culture, history is formed by events and facts that are recorded by posterity. It marks the stages in a brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s progression while establishing it within the wider watchmaking tradition. This unique heritage is the basis for a brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity and legitimacy, and is perpetuated through its different forms of expertise. History builds on authenticated and inventoried documents and archives and this respect for intellectual rigour is an integral part of a brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s image and credibility. History can be a source of inspiration and creativity, including for contemporary brands for which history must be placed in perspective: the value and vision of the creator take the place of heritage.

HISTORY IT'S ALL IN (ON) THE WRIST TEXT: ALBERTO GEROSA PHOTOS: ALFONSO CUCINELLI HISTORY IS A TREASURE TROVE FOR FINE WATCHMAKERS. MODERN DESIGNS CAN TAKE INSPIRATION FROM AESTHETIC MOVEMENTS OF DECADES, EVEN CENTURIES AGO. A BRAND CAN ALSO IGNITE ITS CREATIVE SPARK BY DELVING INTO ITS OWN PAST, OR BY TAKING A FRESH LOOK AT THE INVENTIONS OF YESTERYEAR. THERE ARE, OF COURSE, CERTAIN LIMITS NOT TO CROSS: INSPIRATION IS ONE THING, COPYCAT DESIGN ANOTHER, IN WHICH CASE KNOWING WHAT CAME BEFORE BECOMES A SAFEGUARD AGAINST UNPLEASANT SURPRISES…

s diverse and varied as the occasions may be –

enamelled Grand Feu to the floral styles evoked by the inner

from an homage to a watchmaker’s milestones

workings of certain movements; from the Dada touch of

to celebrating important anniversaries or paying

Franck Muller’s Crazy Hours to the Dalí-esque suggestions of

tribute to the pioneers of human flight – one

the Crash Watch by Cartier. And we will not be without echoes

thing is there for all to see... and to keep us on the watch:

of Pop Art or incursions into biomorphism or even steampunk,

history has never been a greater ally and source of inspiration

not to mention the generations of watches beholden to Art

for fine watchmakers than it is today. The reasons, as we will

Deco (there’s almost no need to mention the Reverso by

see, are many: the desire (or necessity) of a brand to stay

Jaeger-LeCoultre...), as well as, of course, to Bauhaus.

true to its style; the assimilation of the history of horology by

Far from confining itself to the reworking of cases, dials

tomorrow’s budding designers; and perhaps – at least in the

and numbers, this historicizing approach delves far deeper,

case of certain watchmakers – a temporary or prolonged lack

into the movements, driven by an increasingly accentuated

of truly new ideas.

trend among top-flight brands toward in-house calibres.

To our mind, this retrospective trend is above all a reflection of

We thus find models with retro hands (Hublot, Jean d’Eve)

the post-modern approach that has systematically influenced

and chronographs with column wheels or musical automata

every aspect of culture since the mid-twentieth century, and

(Ulysse Nardin, Jaquet Droz) honouring the craft of the

whose fundamental trait is precisely that of revisiting and

legendary makers of the eighteenth-century jacquemarts.

playing with the forms of the past. We could take the current

Some venture into yet more remote milieux and eras in

collections of the pre-eminent brands and arrange them in

their search for inspiration, as in the case of The Chinese

such a way as to have a rich and cultured chronology of nearly

Timekeeper. The emphasis here falls on the numbers 10 and

all the art styles of the past two centuries.

11 rather than 12, reminding us that we have not always used

We may range from the Neoclassical air of Breguet’s

the duodecimal system when scanning time. The Chinese

We could take the current collections of the pre-eminent brands and arrange them in such a way as to have a rich and cultured chronology of nearly all the art styles of the past two centuries.

The Antikythera by Hublot, inspired by the eponymous mechanism dating to c. 150-80 BCE that was recovered, at least in part, from the Aegean Sea, might instead become a textbook case of the application of allohistory – where historical events are given an imaginary twist – to horology… although long used the decimal system. An incursion into such territory

we may yet find that this mysterious astrolabe-calculator,

was also essayed in the late 1700s with the introduction of

precursor to the geared mechanisms officially invented

French Revolutionary Time. At the 2014 Baselworld, Seiko’s

centuries later, poses a serious challenge to the official history

new Astron models represented a return to the dawn of time

both of horology and of mechanical engineering generally.

measurement, when men defined the phases of the day by

Beyond the onward winding path of chronology, the major

looking to the sky and the stars.

watchmaking houses generally like to retrace the fundamental

Of course, unlike the ancient priest-astronomers and their

milestones of their history: “A brand must know its own history

gnomons planted in the ground, the Japanese horological

so that it recognizes its own DNA and can thus create new

giant can rely on a dense network of satellites orbiting at

products in harmony with it,” explains Grégory Gardinetti,

20,000 km from Earth to ensure the perfect synchronicity

Culture & Patrimony Manager at the Fondation de la Haute

of its timepieces. Again in reference to the prehistoric ages,

Horlogerie. Some may object that a cumbersome past may

visitors to the Hi Lights! exhibition, currently underway at the

only be a burden on the free exercise of creativity; we are

Technische Sammlungen in Dresden, will learn that the classic

inclined to disagree.

disks used in moonphase timepieces share a kinship with

After all, it is a situation not unlike that described in the

the Nebra sky disk, a bronze disk with inlaid gold symbols

writings of Raymond Queneau, who tells us the same story

representing the stars and heavenly bodies, discovered in

in 99 different ways to show how important constraints are in

Saxony-Anhalt, Germany, in 1999 and considered to be the

spurring us on to the highest heights of imagination. The Clé

oldest known representation of the cosmos.

collection by Cartier, which revolutionizes both the aesthetics

and the function of the classic cabochon sapphire on the

a whopping 21 million dollars in 2012 for having used the

crown, provides further proof of the perfect applicability of this

face of the clock which Hans Hilfiker designed in 1944 for

concept to fine horology. Unfortunately this does not happen

Swiss train stations on its iPad and iPhone, without first having

often enough, as we see by the brands that have acquired the

come to an agreement with the Swiss Federal Railways (unlike

rights to use the name of some celebrated master watchmaker

Mondaine, which holds a license). Who knows how many

but neglected to invent collections living up to the legacy of

similar cases pass through brands' legal departments without

that name.

ever surfacing to public view? The terrain here is doubtlessly

Conscious of the needs of the industry, educational institutions

riddled with pitfalls. While not wishing to claim – as some do –

are updating their curricula. The most noteworthy case is

that there is nothing left to invent, but that much of it has fallen

HEAD – Haute Ecole d’Art et de Design – in Geneva, one

into the dusty oblivion of old notebooks, it would be stating the

of the city-emblems of watchmaking. The school now runs

obvious to say that horology and precision mechanics have

courses in the history of horology as part of its design degree

brought us a vast bounty of inventions.

programme. A solid knowledge of this subject is, incidentally,

Familiarity with the past may help us unravel certain tangles

also necessary to avoid infringement – accidental or otherwise

that have become particularly intricate over the course of

– of intellectual property rights.

the decades and centuries. In short, those in horology who

The fact that such violations come at a high price was recently

have a firm grasp on history come out ahead. Here we have

demonstrated in the Apple-SBB case. As reported by the

attempted to explain some of the reasons, convinced that

press, the company from Cupertino was sentenced to pay

there are a great many more: at least 21 million...

Photo: Silvia Badalotti

STYLE/DESIGN AND ARTISTIC EXPERTISE Creativity confers a unique style and gives a product soul. It seeks to introduce an overall harmony to the watch’s constituent parts, building on the time-honoured expertise of the métiers d’art, which are a vital aspect of watchmaking. Style is concerned as much with innovation as with tradition. It builds constantly on old and new expertise to produce designs that will lose none of their relevance or appeal throughout subsequent eras. These refined creations are a reflection of artistic expertise while ensuring complete comfort on the wrist.

SWISS VS. SMART TEXT: BENJAMIN CLYMER PHOTOS: ALFONSO CUCINELLI WHETHER SWISS FINE WATCHMAKERS LIKE IT OR NOT, THE SMARTWATCH IS HERE TO STAY. TALK OF LONGEVITY AND TRADITION ARE UNLIKELY TO RESONATE WITH THE ASPIRING APPLE WATCH BUYER. ON THE OTHER HAND, A CONNECTED WATCH CANNOT RIVAL WITH THE AURA AND BEAUTY OF A FINELY CRAFTED SWISS TIMEPIECE. HOW THE TWO WILL DIVIDE UP THE SPACE ON OUR WRIST REMAINS TO BE SEEN.

n May of 2015, we at HODINKEE published a video

the traditionally forward-thinking Hayek’s lapse in foresight was

interview with Google executive and NEST founder

perhaps the best thing to happen to Fadell and Apple itself, the

Tony Fadell. Fadell is a great collector of fine watches,

company that by some estimations could eclipse Swatch as

owning several grand complications from the likes of

the largest seller of watches on the planet.

A. Lange & Söhne and Patek Philippe – he is also considered

Now this charming piece of cocktail party trivia can be viewed

the father of the Apple iPod. Fadell, along with Jony Ive and

two ways: either as a prime example of the traditional Swiss

Steve Jobs, were the men who would change the way we,

watch industry simply not opening its eyes to true opportunity

as a globe, would interact first with music with the iPod, and

when it presents itself, or an honorable defense of tradition and

then with each other, as they segued into the development of

mechanical practices, with Hayek preferring to invest heavily

the iPhone. It was in this interview that Fadell, the billionaire

into movement facilities instead of music players. Perhaps it

entrepreneur and always earnest public speaker, revealed that

didn’t make sense for Swatch to build a music player in the

in fact Apple was not his first choice to develop his pocket-

late 1990s, but no more so than it doesn’t make sense for a

sized, hard-drive based MP3 player that would become the

computer-maker to design and produce a timepiece in 2015 –

iPod. His first choice? Swatch.

and that is what we must remember.

Indeed, Mr. Fadell, already a well-known designer, would pitch

Apple, Google, Intel, and others are completely in their right to

his concept of the early iPod to the late Mr. Hayek months

produce timepieces, and in fact there is much we, as bastions of

before offering it to the Cupertino computer-maker. Mr.

traditional craft, can learn from them. One experience with even

Hayek’s response was one of passive disinterest, citing that he

the least expensive of the Apple Watch options will quickly alert

simply did not see the demand for personal electronic music

you to the fact that the computer-maker has outclassed every

players, when CDs were already so prevalent. Needless to say,

single Swiss-made watch in the same price segment, instantly.

A connected watch will never be as long-lasting as a great, Swiss-made watch. As for where the future of smartwatches resides, the debate is far from over.

is a curious one – with Apple selling rose gold examples of its smartwatches for upwards of $18,000. Is this luxury? It is in the sense that very few people will ever own them. It is in the sense that the gold Apple Watch is rare, and special. It might not be long-lasting, but as we see how the new luxury consumer is and what they value, simple price and rarity might be enough to justify the cost of a smartwatch in a precious metal. In TAG Heuer’s presentation of its connected watch, it touted its “Grade 2 Titanium” case as a distinct advantage over steel and aluminum watches. This simply opens the door for

The watch and all of its several bracelet options are no doubt

the next “luxury” smartwatch-maker to talk of PVD, or ceramic,

made in China, but that need not concern the ten million people

or gold, or platinum.

who will buy one in the first 12 months on the market. After

Real value in watches, as we all know, stems in a very sincere

all, Apple has usurped even mighty Rolex as the aspirational

way as much from branding as it does craft – and it is here that

brand de rigueur in not only the United States and Asia, but

the Swiss have an enviable position. There is simply nothing

also Europe. Gone are the days when 15-year-olds long for a

any technology producer can unveil that will rival the beauty

Calatrava Cross or Golden Coronet on their wrist; instead they

of a fine Swiss watch from an emotional standpoint – and I

want Instagram and Facebook, with dozens of colors.

think that is the takeaway from this all. Apple is undoubtedly

Now in my role as a journalist and supporter of fine watches,

the world’s largest and most important “aspirational” brand,

I have spoken with dozens of very intelligent men and women

and itself needed a global partnership with Hermès to solidify

personally vested in the timepieces industry, and their reactions

its role as a true luxury player. While the move was a brilliant

to Apple Watch and other connected timepieces range from

decision, it should give fine watchmakers solace as even the

disinterest, to stubborn indignation, to inevitable resignation –

mighty Apple – whose cash reserves are greater than the

none are correct in my belief. The connected watch is coming,

entire Swiss watch industry’s revenue combined – felt that

whether Switzerland likes it or not, just as the portable music

it was missing something when it came to branding. Apple

player was coming in the late 1990s, to the chagrin of the entire

will never be as glamorous as Vacheron, Lange or Patek, or

established record industry. One must adapt – pivot back

as highly regarded for quality as Rolex and Omega, and we

towards relevance in the face of atraditional competition.

should remember this always.

Will a connected watch ever be as long-lasting as a great,

The debate as to where the future of smartwatches resides –

Swiss-made watch? Certainly not, but we no longer live in

with the traditional players in Switzerland or the technologists

a society where longevity is even a nice-to-have, let alone

of Silicon Valley – is far from over. On one side, we see so many

a requirement. Now comes the question of investment –

great manufactures lose their way, and indeed their business

one remark often made by the watch industry as catch-all

when they deviate from strengths. On the other hand, we see a

counterpoint to any progress of the digital watch. No, a smart

world of missed opportunities like that of Mr. Hayek and what

watch will never be collectible, at least not at scale. But that

could have been a Swatch-made iPod. The answer perhaps

is a concern for so few, anyway, when the smartwatch – with

lies with both sides of the equation – the combination of each

the exception of those from TAG Heuer, or Apple + Hermès

group’s strengths – or perhaps not.

– costs less than a dinner in any major metropolitan city. Will

The only thing that is undoubtedly true is that the connected

the first Apple Watches perhaps result in a strong sales price

watch is here and here to stay. The remaining future of the

down the road? It is possible, but more out of kitsch than any

Swiss watch industry and the smartwatch industry, however

long-term value. Now the concept of the luxury smartwatch

intertwined or not, remains unwritten.

Photo: Silvia Badalotti

R&D, PRODUCTION AND TECHNICAL EXPERTISE Command of production, finishing and decoration are at the heart of fine watchmaking. Investment in research & development and in production resources is vital in order to maintain standards over the long term.

Photo: Timelab

QUALITY LABELS POINT THE WAY TEXT: ELIZABETH DOERR A GIVEN FIELD MAY CONTAIN HUNDREDS OF DIFFERENT BRANDS OR COMPANIES OFFERING WHAT MIGHT LOOK LIKE A SIMILAR PRODUCT. FOR THE CONSUMER, IT CAN BE REAL WORK TO WADE THROUGH ALL THE OFFERINGS BEFORE FINDING THE RIGHT PRODUCT. QUALITY LABELS CAN HELP POINT OUT THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

ake this example from the world of f ine

emperor. Though the watch world does not have an official

wines: in the year 1855, Napoleon Bonaparte

ranking system, or a Napoleon to champion such a thing, there

determined that Bordeaux wines should be

are various quality labels in existence to help the consumer

ranked, a decision that established the official

wade through the extensive levels of fine watchmaking, the first

classification system for French Bordeaux wine.

one naturally being the term “Swiss Made,” which stipulates

The classes were chiefly determined by the reputation of

that a watch must contain at least 60 percent “Swiss value.”

the châteaux in question and the wines’ trading prices, with

New criteria in the process of being adopted will include taking

classification going from premier cru (first class) through to

certifications into account.

cinquième cru (fifth class).

Consumers prefer to buy watches bearing the “Swiss Made”

A Bordeaux wine can only originate in the Bordeaux region

label because they believe watches marked with this term

of France, but there are hundreds of wine producers in

will be better quality than timepieces not marked with it. But

this region. So how could the poor consumer ever hope to

the world of haute horlogerie offers many other certifications;

understand which wine was better in an age without Yelp?

labels that are engineered to confirm to the consumer just how

Thanks to Napoleon, it became possible – at least if you had

much better, more qualitative, or more accurate the watches

the same taste (or wanted to have the same taste) as the

stamped with them are.

POINÇON DE GENÈVE

PATEK PHILIPPE SEAL

Not long after Napoleon initiated

Historically, Patek Philippe was one

the

Official

of the biggest proponents of the

Classification of 1855, the oldest

Hallmark of Geneva, submitting its

of the watch world’s labels came

movements for 120 years – until

into being in 1886: the Hallmark

2009 when the family-owned brand

of Geneva (Poinçon de Genève)

announced its own label. The Patek

can only be awarded to movements that are assembled and

Philippe Seal is a benchmark that, according to the company,

regulated within the canton of Geneva. The head offices of

incorporates more standards including functional elements

the company submitting the movement must also be located

such as accuracy, cases, dials and other aspects of a finished

there. Intended as a hallmark of quality, not only origin, not

watch, particularly where they cannot be immediately seen,

every watch manufacture located in the Swiss canton is

thereby bringing an even stronger guarantee of excellence to

eligible to obtain it. Like most other geographical locations

the traditional brand’s clients.

whose names are closely associated with indigenous products

While as far as I know there was no wine involved in this

(think Parma, Champagne – and Bordeaux), the Hallmark of

decision, a major event took place prior: Cartier was able to

Geneva was originally created to protect the name “Geneva”

attain the Hallmark on some of its movements. Could this

from abuse, either by pretenders with mail-drop corporations

have prompted Patek Philippe’s historic move away from the

or sub-par brands.

Poinçon de Genève in order to further differentiate itself from

The admission and product criteria a movement needs

a “maison” with less serious history in watchmaking – thereby

to fulfill to be awarded the sought-after stamp apply to

potentially opening the door to others?

Bordeaux

Wine

the technical, aesthetic, and tradition-filled aspects of a movement. Obviously, one of the focuses of the Hallmark of Geneva is to continue to emphasize the handcrafted aspects

QUALITÉ FLEURIER

of mechanical watchmaking.

Certainly founded as a counterpart to

But very much unlike the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification

the Hallmark of Geneva, the Qualité

of 1855, the Hallmark of Geneva has moved along with the

Fleurier was called to life in 2001 by

times, undergoing bouts of revitalization. A telling piece of

companies located in the Val-de-

evidence regarding this was just presented in September

Travers region (Bovet, Chopard, Parmigiani, and Vaucher).

2015 when Vacheron Constantin’s Reference 57260 – the

Its ambitious task is to unite several tests within one single

new record-holder for most complicated watch in the world

certification. Supported by the Swiss federal government, the

with 57 functions – was awarded the Hallmark of Geneva

canton of Neuchâtel, the Val-de-Travers Regional Association,

despite the fact that its pallet lever and escape wheel are

and the Philippe Jéquier Foundation, QF Certification is open

manufactured in diamond-coated silicon. Before the last

to any Swiss brand that meets its criteria, and its testing is

revamp of the Hallmark of Geneva, it would have been

conducted objectively under the supervision of a technical

impossible to award this watch the coveted stamp due to the

committee.

use of new materials within the movement.

The Fleurier Quality Foundation was the first qualitative horological certification for finished watches that are manufactured 100 percent in Switzerland, and its certification – which is quite difficult to attain – may only be issued if the movement has also secured COSC and Chronofiable certification (another Swiss certification that tests how a

watch ages). Finishing must display the aesthetics of haute

So do these labels manage to simplify things for the consumer

horlogerie, and the finished watch must pass testing on the

in the end? My personal feeling is that they do not – mostly

Fleuritest simulator, which ensures the watch’s rate under

because they are just too hard to explain using only a few

actual wearing conditions is between 0 and +5 seconds

words. However, brands at this highest level of their craft will

deviation per day.

forever continue to try to differentiate themselves from each

Qualité Fleurier is, to date, the only certification that

other, which was the point of creating the quality labels in the

guarantees standards of quality across the board, thanks to

first place.

the complementary nature of its tests: aesthetic, reliability,

Is it the Hallmark of Geneva that makes Vacheron Constantin

and precision when worn.

so great, or is it Vacheron Constantin that makes the Hallmark so noteworthy? However, I postulate that these labels are

CHRONOMETER TESTING

here to stay because the novice enthusiast needs them in the

In the modern age, most well-

end as a signpost.

regulated, standard movements will

After all, Napoleon’s system is still here even if only novice

pass chronometer testing whether

wine connoisseurs (and experienced wine marketers) pay

they possess a certificate or not. But

attention to it.

in the day and age that we live in, luxury watch companies need to find a way to differentiate themselves from each other – and many use the COSC chronometer certificate as a way to set themselves apart from the competition. Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) is a private, non-profit organization established in 1973 in Switzerland. Its standards have been set by international ISO agreement. Even though there is now also an official chronometer testing association in Germany, the COSC with its three laboratories in Biel, Saint-Imier, and Le Locle, which have attained accreditation as Swiss Calibration Service (SCS) laboratories from the Swiss Accreditation Service (SAS), remain de world’s primary labs for testing chronometers. However, in December of 2014, Omega – one of the largest providers of tested chronometers after Rolex – announced new chronometer certification in conjunction with METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology. At press time, the only watch to have been introduced with Omega’s new so-called Master Chronometer Certification is 2015’s Globemaster. Even if the COSC is accredited by the SAS as an SCS laboratory, Omega obviously feels that by offering METAScertified

chronometers

complement

COSC

certification, it is differentiating itself from its number-one competitor, Rolex. I’m fairly certain no wine was involved in that logic.

Photo: Silvia Badalotti

DISTRIBUTION The point of sale is the point of contact with the end customer. Whether it represents one or several brands, it must convey their values through impeccable service, delivered with professionalism and empathy. Distribution and after-sales service encompass all operations through which watches are sold and serviced worldwide. So as to guarantee service on a par with its reputation, throughout its productsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lifetime and in all regions, the brand must have the support of a qualified distribution and after-sales network that is consistent with its product range and production. Staff must be trained in the specific characteristics of the brand, and points of sale should as far as possible be spread evenly around the world.

Photo: Gallery Stock

ONLINE OR OFF? THE DISTRIBUTION DILEMMA TEXT: PIERRE MAILLARD HELD IN LAUSANNE IN NOVEMBER 2015, THE FORUM DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE CONSIDERED THE THEME “FUTURE IN PROGRESS”. A TITLE THAT CLEARLY ARTICULATES, IN ITS OWN WAY, THE PARADOXICAL QUESTIONS THE WORLD OF FINE WATCHMAKING IS ASKING ABOUT WHAT THE FUTURE HOLDS. DO FINE WATCHMAKERS DREAM OF A FUTURE THAT DOESN'T PROGRESS? YET THE FUTURE IS, BY DEFINITION, THE PROGRESSION OF TIME. THERE CAN BE NO FUTURE – NOR EVEN TIME ITSELF – WITHOUT “PROGRESS”.

et in their communication, the vast majority of

generation after generation, have continued to evolve quite

fine watch brands swear by the past, train the

literally non-stop. Just as a bike can always be ridden, the

spotlight on an identity they have crafted over

mechanical watch will always give the time, (more or less)

centuries, emphasise tradition and heritage, and

come what may, because like a bicycle the watch is completely

boast of the enduring nature of their creations.

autonomous and functions independently of any external

Vacheron Constantin is one of the Maisons for which the word

source - other than a push on the pedals or winding of the

“Eternity” is making its grand comeback in communication: a

movement. This “ingrained obsolescence” is thus what protects

mechanical watch promises to last for all eternity, “future in

the mechanical watch, as reassuring to us as a fire glowing

progress” or no “future in progress”!

in the hearth. In a changing world, one thing at least – the

Faced with the innovations taking place in a digital world whose

mechanical watch – still has the intrinsic capacity to improve

limits have yet to be perceived – “just how far will we go?” is

though its nature will never change.

the question everyone is asking – fine watchmaking seeks to reassure, and to reassure itself. It has risen above the mad

TRANSFORMING THE “SHOPPING EXPERIENCE”

scramble, or so it seems to say, ensconced in its role as “eternal”

This is the premise behind fine watchmaking's interrogations

landmark, the beacon standing firm in the midst of this “future

as to how it relates, or should relate, to the digital world. When

in progress”, keeping its head when all about it are losing theirs.

it comes to research, design, production and marketing,

There is an element of truth to this claim, something that

watchmakers have digitally come of age. Yet in view of its

lies in what has become the fundamental incongruity of the

“obsolete” characteristics, and the high price that makes it a

mechanical watch: an object which relies on a completely

uniquely precious object, the selling of a mechanical watch has

outdated technology to fulfil its primary role, which is to give

always imposed the utmost care and attention. This is what

the exact time. Paradoxically, we find this now ingrained

specialists like to call a rich “shopping experience” which, thus

“obsolescence” reassuring, as it puts the mechanical watch

distinguished, takes on a particular noble quality, not without its

above time. These cogs and gears stand in opposition to the

share of emotion. It is a physical “experience” that takes place

very much planned obsolescence of the digital tools which,

in carefully chosen, attentively decorated locations, intimately

Photo : Gallery Stock

orchestrated by a select staff whose duty it is to be welcoming,

removed the intimidating “barrier” of the door to a physical store,

attentive, available and experts in their field.

allowing anyone and everyone to enter by proxy. “Just looking”…

By making it possible to implement this same experience online, in an entirely virtual way, the digital sphere undermines

HYBRID SOLUTIONS

this model. Hence the extreme reticence among luxury

Some experiences have gone further, and set out to gradually

brands to climb into bed with a media that, by definition,

erase the online/offline distinction. Burberry is one. Its former

challenges and even contradicts their deep-rooted identity,

CEO Angela Ahrendts declared that “Walking through [our]

and transforms the privileged bond they are bent on

doors is just like walking into our website”. By seeking to create

maintaining with their customers. While legitimately hesitant

a seamless online and offline unity, the English brand led the

to throw themselves headlong into online sales, the leading

way in wanting to blur the line between the experience of a

luxury brands are nonetheless venturing more and more

physical store and the experience of a virtual self encountering

frequently into this continuously expanding universe, for the

the brand online. Did it succeed? While there is no hard financial

most part by developing their communication, optimising

evidence that it has reached its goal, Angela Ahrendts was

their online presence and engaging in the social media that

subsequently hired by Apple, where she is now vice president

now dominate online exchanges.

of retail and… online.

As a result, the public's perception of luxury, exception and

Still, comparisons are odious and a trench coat, however

rarity has been profoundly transformed. Luxury has been

luxurious, or an Apple Watch, even in gold, are culturally far

“democratised” by virtual means which have symbolically

removed from a grande complication by a Swiss manufacture

with centuries of expertise to its name. These products may

The public's perception of luxury, exception and rarity has been profoundly transformed. Luxury has been “democratised” by virtual means which have symbolically removed the intimidating “barrier” of the door to a physical store.

be expensive, extravagant even, they are not rare. Whereas fine watchmaking goes hand-in-hand with rarity and exclusivity whose compatibility with online distribution one might question. Must these objects be made available at all costs across all channels, both virtual and real? In the short term, perhaps. In the long term, one is entitled to doubt. While making products instantaneously available in an unlimited space may boost cashflow, in the long run this can only have detrimental and undermining effects. Faced with the object of his or her desire, the client, collector or aficionado (however you wish to call them) is like a child who has been promised a longed-for toy. They are bursting with impatience, yet the frustration of having to wait is very much part of the pleasure, which is all the greater for it. Not unlike love. Something so rare can only be attained with effort.

watchmaking does not sell to a clientele of backward-looking

The instantaneous and the rare are diametrically opposed.

dreamers. Rather, they are digital-savvy and often early

Online sales, in contrast, pursue an entirely different ideal;

adopters at the cutting-edge of technological innovation.

that of instant gratification. The object is poised for delivery, if

Constantly on the move, they jump from one continent to

possible the second it is ordered, and by drone if needs be. An

another, from one hub to another, and are already the most

Amazon-esque logic.

“deterritorialised” of any social class. Their mobility has already

There is, we are told, a disenchantment with the buying and

forced brand boutiques and multi-brand retailers to transform

selling experience. But for the Millennials who cut their first

their offering by permanently adapting it – price included – to

teeth on remote controls, joysticks, tablets, mobile phones,

the most cosmopolitan tastes and aspirations. Digital tracking

and other such devices, and who grew up in the instant-access

and targeting of this mobile clientele, as it migrates from jet

cloud, wouldn't having a grande complication flown directly to

to jet, have become essential selling tools, virtualising even

them by drone from a remote Swiss valley be an “enchanting

physical sales. Yet in this context of overlapping physical and

experience”? Who knows! Prior to delivery, the client will have

virtual spheres, there is no guarantee that the new Generation

sent the venerable manufacture a scan of his wrist, which will

Y of fine watch customers will continue in aeternum to prefer

then have been 3D-printed so as to adjust as precisely as

physical stores over virtual reverie and one-click purchasing.

possible his custom-made timepiece. The drone will reach the

Whatever happens, digital's “future in progress” is headed

appointed spot at precisely the appointed time, and deposit

straight for the perfect cross-genre mix of real and virtual, the

its precious cargo inside a circle of friends, gathered for the

two inseparable sides of a single “reality”. Is this a cause for

occasion. The following day, an envoy from the brand will

concern? In his allegory of the cave, Plato tells how a group of

knock at his door to physically initiate him in the mysteries of

people, chained to the wall of a cave, took the shadows cast

his new watch.

by a fire lit behind them to be reality. Man has tried to leave this cave to view reality face-on. It seems digital's flames are taking

BACK INTO THE CAVE

us back, slowly but surely.

In all likelihood, things will evolve in the same way society will

The choice of physical or virtual is a decisive one that goes

evolve. As the gap between rich and poor widens, the means

far beyond commercial strategies alone. But isn't it already

for social distinction will become increasingly sophisticated

too late? What chance do we have of catching up with a

and take every available form, be this real or virtual. Fine

future in progress?

Photo: Silvia Badalotti

BRAND IMAGE AND COMMUNICATION In the luxury segment, brand image rests on coherent communication in keeping with the exclusive nature of the product, including in social media. For fine watchmaking, authenticity is a key element in highlighting the full substance of a brand and its products.

STAR POWER TEXT: SEAN LI LINKING A FAMOUS FACE TO A PRODUCT IS NOTHING NEW, BUT JUST HOW RELEVANT, OR EVEN PROFITABLE, IS A CELEBRITY ENDORSEMENT FOR WATCHMAKERS IN TODAY'S GLOBAL MARKET? BEING ASSOCIATED WITH A HOUSEHOLD NAME IS ONE WAY TO RISE ABOVE THE CROWD, BUT IT TAKES MORE THAN A FAMOUS THUMBS-UP TO DEVELOP A DEEPER, LASTING RELATIONSHIP WITH THE CUSTOMER.

rom the ver y beginning of the enter tainment industries, whether music, television, cinema or sport, stars have been

in demand for endorsement marketing. We aspire to the values they embody – through personal achievements, narratives or the characters they portray – and we relate to the stories they tell. They transport us to a world where we easily focus on the positives, and are seldom reminded that there are two sides to every coin. Naturally, brands worldwide have looked to capitalize on the halo effect g e n e rate d by th e g e nu in e sta r s w h o s e presence alone is enough to create a stir. The watchmaking industr y is no stranger to this approach, seeking out the services of numerous celebrities for product endorsements and partnerships. Nine times out of ten, these are announced with great

The effectiveness of celebrity endorsements, particularly of fine watches, is still up for debate.

will appeal to the Asian clientele. This has been a period of mutual learning: brands h ave g a i n e d i n s i g h t i n to w h a t A s i a n consumers, in particular Chinese, want (and on this note, allow me to add that these countries are looking for the genuine article, i.e. a generally Swiss – or German – watch with its inherent core values, not one that they feel has been adapted for foreign tastes), while Asian consumers have Montre Geophysic Universal Time

learned about brands they had previously

Philippe Jordan, Chef d’orchestre et Directeur Musical à Paris et Vienne

had little exposure to, and encountered a depth and complexity to the product mix Open a whole new world

that was not apparent at first. As their wealth and disposable income have grown, so have their interest in and appetite for

fanfare and followed up in every channel imaginable, which

fine watchmaking. Despite this, the organic evolution of

in today’s world of electronic communications and social

the market over a given period of time was considerably

media means there is almost no escaping the onslaught of

compressed as brands arrived en masse, intent on lodging

marketing messages, from billboards to magazines to your

themselves in the Asian consumer's mind. In this context,

personal social media feeds. However, the effectiveness of

celebrity endorsement became virtually obligatory as a way

these celebrity endorsements, particularly in the context of

to stand out among the dozens of brands, all eager to grab

haute horology, remains a highly debatable question given

a share of the cake, that were simultaneously presenting

the complexity of today’s watch markets.

their watches.

First we need to look at how the watch markets are

In more mature markets, celebrity endorsement can be used

segmented geographically. It’s a well-known fact that the

to great effect but must be treated as a long-term strategy

Asian market has experienced tremendous growth in recent

rather than a short-term boost, and needs to be done

years, and has been a focus for watch brands in terms of

sparingly. Brands that have seen such partnerships succeed

marketing, but also product development as watchmakers

are those that have been careful to choose ambassadors

have endeavored to adjust their ranges to what they believe

whose public image aligns with that of the brand, and who

considerations when purchasing abroad are to have the relevant CITES documentation, should the watch be fitted with a strap made from the skin of a protected species, and the box itself, which many boutiques are more than willing to forward should you prefer not to burden yourself during your travels. You only need visit the major metropolitan shopping centers around the world to see that they are frequented as much, if not more, by tourists than by locals. Walk into the major shops and grands magasins in Paris, and inevitably you will hear a foreign language, often Chinese, being spoken, not just by the customers but by staff as well. It should be pointed out that, in their thirst for knowledge and products, Chinese customers have reached a certain level of maturity far more quickly than we have experienced in previous markets. Consequently, brands need to change the

SLIM D’HERMÈS

way they present themselves, simply to keep

U N M O U V E M E N T V E R S L’ E S S E N T I E L

slimdhermes.com

pace with that market. Celebrity endorsement becomes all the more difficult in a global context, as the celebrity in question needs to

LMH_HQ • Visual: Slim Or Rose • Magazine: HH Novembre (CH) • Language: French • Doc size: 210 x 297 mm • Calitho #: 11-15-113530 • AOS #: HER_01497 • EB 10/11/2015

be someone whose fame and image transcends borders and have a genuine interest in what the brand stands for and its

societies, and this type of global star isn't that easy to come

products. Brands that are unable to obtain this consistency

by… not to mention that worldwide recognition generally

and, it must be said, loyalty from their ambassadors have

comes with a similarly scaled contract and remuneration.

little to gain, and may even find the exercise detrimental as

While local partnerships may be possible, they imply even

it could lead to mixed messages being perceived by the

more challenges as a brand needs to choose partners,

brand’s customers.

however many, that are a match in some way, regardless of

Looking ahead, given the effects of globalization we could

the market they are presented in.

challenge the effectiveness of celebrity endorsement as

Having a celebrity for the sake of the celebrity may bring

a marketing strategy, particularly for goods that are easily

a shor t-term boost to the brand: in an industr y where

transported across borders, such as watches. Customers

aura is more often than not based on history, this isn't a

are less and less obliged to purchase these products in their

sustainable approach. We are increasingly moving towards

home market. Whereas safety and other related regulations

a global environment, particularly when addressing luxury

apply to luxury automobiles, meaning only a limited pool

goods. While the potential customer may see the advertising

of products is available to import, in the case of watches,

message in their home market, there is a good chance

apart from import duty that may have to be paid, the only

the purchase will be made when traveling. As such, the

When brands are espousing their histories which span decades, even centuries, and the knowledge and experience that they are distilling into every one of their timepieces, their marketing message must evolve as well, to carry forward the depth and value that should come with every watch, particularly in haute horology.

marketing message needs to be consistent and recognizable at any given moment, in any given place. While there are, indeed, global celebrities, the ones that can convey a brand’s values and the excellence of its products across borders are few and far between. This doesn't mean celebrity endorsements and partnerships should immediately be struck from the entire industry’s marketing and communications strategies. They can, even today, be a way to fast-track a brand or a particular watch into the general awareness of potential customers. I would submit that if you are reading these words in the first place, you are not the target market for these kinds of messages as you have already progressed well up the learning curve of fine watchmaking. The industry has to attract the attention of potential customers and younger generations, and it may need the draw of a celebrity to initially grab that attention. Brands nonetheless need to look beyond this and see it as exactly that: a short-term boost for customers whose interest in an unfamiliar brand may be piqued by the image of the associated celebrity. Those who become enamored with and hopefully passionate about that brand and its watches will soon seek more depth and a personal engagement that cannot be achieved with the generally ephemeral nature of these endorsements. When brands are espousing their histories which span decades, even centuries, and the knowledge and experience that they are distilling into every one of their timepieces, their marketing message must evolve as well, to carry forward the depth and value that should come with every watch,

M A N U FA C T U R E D ’ É T E R N I T É D E P U I S 1 75 5 260 ans d’histoire ininterrompue reflétée à travers la collection Harmony. Une nouvelle légende est née.

particularly in haute horology. HARMONY CH RO N O G RAPHE

Once these messages are properly perceived, and become associated with a par ticular brand, they are then transmitted through peer networks and across generations. It is this longevity that watch brands must work towards, as it will ensure their growth for years, and generations, to come.

94.5x130_HarmonyChrono.indd 1

25.11.15 14:56

Photo: Silvia Badalotti

CONNOISSEURS AND COLLECTORS Connoisseurs and collectors are at the heart of a dialogue rooted in passion and loyalty. They choose watches for their documentary, aesthetic and technical qualities, as well as for the rarity and exclusivity that characterise a fine watch. As the product of extraordinary expertise, the coveted timepiece will retain, if not increase, its value over the years. While todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s customers make themselves heard most strongly through social media, personal relations are as fundamental as ever, and a special connection exists between brands and these most staunch supporters who are a barometer for fine watchmaking.

THE LURE OF COLLECTING TEXT: AURO MONTANARI PHOTO: ALFONSO CUCINELLI COLLECTING WATCHES REQUIRES METHOD, FOCUS AND DEDICATION, ALTHOUGH A SUCCESSFUL COLLECTOR MUST ALSO DEVELOP A KEEN EYE AND A WELL-HONED INSTINCT. FOR SOME, A COLLECTION CAN BE AN INVESTMENT. FIRST AND FOREMOST THOUGH, IT IS A PASSION.

t is my belief that we are only just embarking on

began to include vintage wristwatches in their established

a worldwide understanding and appreciation of

auctions of pocket watches and clocks. Early collectors

mechanical watches. A watch is an anachronism in

purchased vintage pieces without any education or information

this age of ubiquitous smartphones and tablets that

from magazines, books, museum exhibitions or other sources.

display the time, and still the ancient art of horology continues

My own passion for watches was awakened when I was a

to capture the imagination and the money of men around the

teenager, perhaps too soon. Beauty, originality and depth of

world. Vintage wristwatch collecting only really began in the

expertise were the first factors to guide my choice. Later I would

late 1970s. It was during this tumultuous decade that fine

add passion and emotion, both essential in my mind, to this

watchmaking appeared in peril of becoming extinct, as the

already rare conjunction.

market was swamped with cheap, accurate and reliable battery-

Collecting watches is a labour of love as well as an exhilarating

powered watches. The introduction of quartz technology may

passion that paves the way for a lifetime of pleasure and

well have led to this revival of interest in mechanical watches.

fulfilment. I love the feel, look and intricacies of watches, what

Mechanical watches, which had been, for the most part,

they can do, what they stand for, and the enjoyment I get from

utilitarian objects, were suddenly no longer utilitarian at all - they

holding and studying them. My approach has matured into

were obsolete â&#x20AC;&#x201C; yet owning a mechanical timepiece is about

collecting in sets, types and themes. I classify my watches to

experiencing the measurement of time, not just telling it. That

put together a collection that tells a story - the fact that they

vintage timepieces will never be as accurate as modern quartz

can be worn is not actually that important. I have never and

watches has no importance.

probably will never wear most of the timepieces I own. Collecting

The market took off in the mid-1980s when auction houses

watches should be, above all else, fun. Buy what you love (and

can afford). A true collector must wisely, even ruthlessly, define

Collecting watches is a labour of love as well as an exhilarating passion that paves the way for a lifetime of pleasure and fulfilment. Collecting watches should be, above all else, fun.

the limits of his collection and stay within them. One can build a beautiful and rewarding watch collection that is commensurate with one's budget, provided one takes the time to acquire the necessary knowledge to make an informed decision. My five golden rules of collecting are: try to collect what you like rather than follow the general trend; never compromise and be disciplined; only buy watches with the correct configuration and in perfect condition; buy the seller, not the watch; be humble, rein in your ego, don’t compete with other collectors; read books, look on the internet, browse auction catalogues, visit museums and have good relations with the entire watch community (dealers, auction houses and other collectors). A successful collector is often an innovator – the person who

Others respond to market dynamics and sell parts of their

falls for something that many others may have overlooked.

collection to gain the liquidity to buy further fascinating pieces to

This kind of gut feeling can lead to the best buys, and give the

add. A worthy collection should always have a coherent theme;

collector a head start. Highly collectible, varied and intricate,

it should not be too disparate. Many collectors are happy to

wristwatches are a global phenomenon. As the successor

acquire another collector’s watch provided they have a passion

to the pocket watch, wristwatches dominated portable

for that particular piece.

timekeeping in the 20th century and were often handed down

The rise in popularity of vintage watches coupled with the

through generations within a family. In addition to these antique

stratospheric increase in value have spawned countless fakes.

and vintage watches, many newer limited editions have been

Let the buyer beware, otherwise you could easily find yourself

produced by watchmakers, and are sought-after by collectors.

with a “Frankenwatch”, cobbled together from a mishmash of

Wristwatch collectors tend to focus on specific brands, and

components of questionable authenticity. Auction houses are

with design, design, style, functions, wearability and rarity to

a good place to find interesting watches; dealers around the

consider, the hunt for a timepiece accounts for a large share of

world are an even better source, now that collectors haunt the

the collecting process. When building anything, one must begin

web more than they do estate sales, flea markets or shops.

with solid foundations and a watch collection is no different.

Vintage watch buying is enjoying incredible popularity thanks

Once you have set your mind to a specific brand and model,

to a community of savvy collectors, great internet resources for

it's time to put all your energy into finding the perfect piece

both learning about and buying old watches, and a nostalgic

at the perfect price from the perfect seller. Finding the right

yearning for quality products from an era before planned

watch might take weeks, months, even years in some cases.

obsolescence. Old watches also represent great value and are

The catch being, what constitutes the “right watch”? If you are

the chance to wear a piece of history.

unwilling to compromise on condition, price and provenance, for

From a passion pursued by adventurous treasure hunters,

example, finding this “right watch” could take a while. Tracking

watch collecting has become a very serious business, with

it down might take some of the heat out of your obsession,

collectors influencing the market in ways that are more subtle

temporarily at least because it seems a new grail is always

and far-reaching than merely driving up the prices of certain

around the corner. The positive side being that watch collecting

rare timepieces. In the past, vast quantities of watches were

is a never-ending story.

available for sale worldwide and quality was less important than

The market, which is controlled by demand, can force many

it is today. The market for high-end mechanical watches slowed

collectors to change the course of their collection after a while.

in the early 1990s when recession kicked in, but enjoyed a

resurgence in the latter half of the 1990s when the stock market

Patek Philippe are very liquid, low maintenance, have minimal

picked up again. This time manufacturers were ready to take

storage requirements and can be worn and enjoyed on a daily

advantage of demand within the luxury market for unique

basis. Vintage watches have soared in value over the past

timepieces. Switzerland saved itself by looking at what was

decade as the wealthy have put more money into collectibles.

selling in the vintage market and at the interest in complications.

If you are lucky, your watch collection can turn into a nice little

Old names were revived and reinvented.

investment. If you are lucky, that is.

The internet, and particularly the advent of eBay in the mid-

Collectors who buy a watch, even the most beautiful

1990s, profoundly changed the world of watch collecting. Over

specimen, are rarely going to keep it for ever. Nor do they

the past 15 years, the internet has produced a closer, more

buy it to necessarily resell it. They do, however, need to know

tightly-knit community of collectors and dealers. It has also

that it represented a good deal at the time they bought it

given a significant percentage of the world’s population access

and continues to do so, day after day. When this “business”

to relatively arcane and esoteric information about watches and

factor disappears, often so does the love of collecting. Thus

horology. Thanks first to discussion forums, then blogs and

speculation/investment – often a virtual mirror in which the

now social media, there is a potential global online audience for

buyer wants to see confirmation of his intelligence and abilities,

anything interesting, informative or entertaining enough to grab

simply to satisfy his own ego - and the market for high quality

our attention. However, the democracy of the web has created

watches have always gone hand-in-hand. Naturally, no-one

not only a new generation of collectors but also collectors who

can predict the future of watch collections with 100% certainty,

are a bunch of overinformed idiots!

but a smartly built collection of watches will at least do better

A modern collector can be sharp enough to analyse the minute

than the current interest rate on your savings account. Vintage

detail of an electronic display but not good enough to spot a

watches have proved to be a reliable investment even during

rare find at a flea market.

the last recession.

The great thing about watches is that key brands like Rolex and

Connoisseurs around the world are now willing to pay a premium for watches with unaltered dials, unpolished cases, that have never been serviced, and with original documentation and provenance. The price gap between a standard model and the same in NOS condition can be as much as double or triple. The worldwide market for vintage wristwatches is

When building anything, one must begin with solid foundations and a watch collection is no different. A worthy collection should always have a coherent theme; it should not be too disparate. Many collectors are happy to acquire another collector’s watch provided they have a passion for that particular piece.

currently focused on the two Geneva manufacturers of Patek Philippe and Rolex. Patek Philippe started making wristwatches in 1910 and is behind key innovations in the Swiss high quality watch industry, including in the perpetual calendar, the splitseconds hand, world-time, the chronograph and the minute repeater. It also owns the most beautiful watch museum in the world. Rolex’s fame also springs largely from its reputation for innovation: it produced the first automatic wristwatches with rotor and pioneered the development of waterproof timepieces with first the Oyster and then a range of sports models. Many new collectors want to know which brands will gain value over time. An excellent question! My answer is simple: when a watch has a beautiful, powerful design and great quality, who cares who made it!

Photo: Silvia Badalotti

TRAINING The transfer of knowledge is a matter of importance in fine watchmaking. This investment in the next generations guarantees the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long-term future. Training covers not just production, which is typically Swiss, but also distribution and sales on an international scale, given the highly specific nature of a fine watch.

HH CERTIFICATION KNOWLEDGE IS A STRENGHT TEXT: JOE THOMPSON PHOTO: SILVIA BADALOTTI THE FHH HAS A SOLUTION TO THE LACK OF PROFESSIONALISM BEHIND WATCH COUNTERS IN THE UNITED STATES. HH CERTIFICATION EDUCATES SALES ASSOCIATES IN WATCHES, AND PROVIDES CUSTOMERS WITH THE ASSURANCE THEY ARE DEALING WITH A TRUE PROFESSIONAL. THE INITIATIVE HAS BEEN WELCOMED BY AMERICAN RETAILERS WHO SEE IT AS SETTING A FUTURE STANDARD FOR SALES STAFF.

n 2011, in an interview with Swatch Group CEO Nick

interesting seeing Nick Hayek’s interview in WatchTime, where

Hayek, I happened to mention that, despite the bitter

he spoke about the American market,” Richemont Chairman

recession of 2009, the United States was still the

Johann Rupert remarked in a meeting with financial analysts

world’s second largest watch market. The remark

in Geneva.) For all the brouhaha about Hayek’s brashness

startled Hayek. “Do you really think that you are still the number

and bluntness, few quarreled with what he actually said. In the

two market in the world?” he asked me incredulously. He went

U.S., watch retailers and executives alike bemoan the general

on to issue a blistering critique of the U.S. market, particularly

state of watch knowledge behind the counter. Which is why a

the sorry state of watch retailing in America. “The United States

new initiative launched in the U.S. last year by the Fondation

has become a submerging market,” he said. “Watch distribution

de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) is so important. The FHH has

in the U.S. is at the level of a third-world country. Most U.S.

developed the watch industry’s first ever program to test and

watch retailers sell watches like a commodity, nothing else.

certify the watch knowledge of retail sales associates.

What is needed now are well-trained salespeople and a good

Developed in Switzerland, the HH Certification program, as it

presentation of fine products such as Swiss watches.”

is called, provides watch sales professionals with a course of

In the subsequent story that appeared in WatchTime, Hayek

study to improve their watch knowledge. They then take an

detailed with stinging specificity the shortcomings of America’s

exam created by the FHH to determine their level of watch

watch retailers, reinforcing his main point: “Things must change

education. Depending on their scores, they can earn one of

in the interest of the American retailer and consumer.” The

three certificates: Advisor in Fine Watchmaking, Specialist in

article proved to be something of a bombshell, provoking

Fine Watchmaking, or Expert in Fine Watchmaking, the highest

commotion and commentary far beyond the USA. (“It was

level of certification. The test consists of 160 questions on four

subjects: watchmaking techniques; market players; materials;

Development Manager at Tourneau, the largest authorized

and culture and history. To create it, the FHH assembled

watch retailer in the United States. Owen is on the front lines

an advisory committee of 15 specialists who approved a

of the battle to improve watch education at retail. Moreover,

database of 2,500 questions. A team of experts in evaluation

when it comes to watch knowledge, he’s top notch, earning an

methodology then designed the test, which takes about two

Expert in Fine Watchmaking Certification on the HH test. I was

hours to complete.

curious what an expert in watch knowledge, watch retailing and

Through September 2015, the FHH has given the HH

watch training thought about the FHH initiative. “I think the FHH

Certification exam eight times in three cities – New York (twice),

is off to a good start,” he said. “As long as it continues to press

Los Angeles and Ft. Lauderdale. A total of sixty-three people

forward and provide the educational resources, as well as the

have taken it, according to Kaiser Time Corp., the New York

certification, it has great potential for the market as a whole.”

consultancy that organizes the program in the United States.

Tourneau has been working with the FHH on watch education

One of them is Kyle Owen. He is the eLearning and Content

for more than two years, Owen says. The FHH sponsors several

educational programs and courses for retailers in the United

Watchmaking,” Owen says, “it would show that this person is

States. “Probably 150 of our staff have gone through some of

different from other sales associates.”

their watchmaking training,” he says. Ten of his team took the

Owen points out that the test is not restricted to retailers.

HH Certification exam. “The general consensus was that it was

Anyone who wants to test or improve their watch knowledge is

hard,” he says with a laugh. “Which is good. It represents the

welcome to take the exam. “The fact that the FHH is opening it

culmination of a series of training courses lasting about a year.”

to the public as an educational resource is really good,” Owen

Owen thinks HH Certification has a number of benefits for

says. “I know a few of our clients would love to take the test.”

retailers. One is the education a salesperson gets simply by

Owen clearly has high hopes for the HH Certification program,

preparing for the exam. Candidates enroll for the test online

and high expectations. “The FHH is huge,” he says. “They

at www.hhcertification.org; the enrollment fee is 385 dollars.

have the backing of almost 30 luxury watch brands with the

There they get study material that prepares them for the test.

goal of educating not only retailers but also the general public.”

(Additional study preparation material is available at www.

He understands that it will take time for the program to make

hautehorlogerie.org).

an impact. But it’s a start. “HH Certification is in its infancy.

Then there is the professional pride that passing the test gives

This certification curriculum is the first of its kind. I think it will

the sales associate. “You have the confidence knowing, yes,

prove to be a very solid model. What they are doing with it

I am certified at this level. It means I am a top-level, watch-

is a great thing.”

knowledgeable sales professional,” he says. For the retail

What Nick Hayek said about the U.S. in 2011 remains true

store, “the certificate is something that shows that your staff

today: “The potential in the U.S. is there. The U.S. can be a

is fully vetted. They are at a knowledge level such that they are

fantastic country for Swiss watches if we sell them the right

providing the most accurate and best information to a client.”

way.” The HH Certification program is designed to do exactly

The certificate also gives confidence to the store’s watch

that, and marks a major step in the right direction.

customers. “Over time, the certificate will represent something to the client,” Owen says. “It says that I, as a client, am dealing with a consummate professional, not just in their demeanor, but in what they know.” Owen’s hope is that HH Certification becomes the watch industry’s equivalent of the educational

An expert doesn’t just know one particular subject. He masters them all. In 160 questions, the Watch Expert Test ascertains a level of watch knowledge by focusing on four main subjects: techniques, market players, materials and finishes, culture and history. The final score is a combination of right answers and confidence level.

certifications issued by the Gemological Institute of America. GIA’s Graduate Gemologist (GG) and other diplomas (GD, GCS, GP) are recognized around the world as professional hallmarks in the jewelry, diamond, colored stone and pearl industries. “The concept that makes sense to me is to use HH Certification like a GIA certification,” Owen says. “In theory, as the program grows, we and competing retailers will have so many salespeople who are qualified that HH Certification will become recognized as a hallmark. It means that we have staff who are strong in the world of watchmaking, who can answer the questions that a client might have.” Owen expects that retailers will display the HH Certification prominently in the store, as they do now with GIA diplomas. They will also put the HH Certification designation on sales associates’ business cards. “If a client gets a business card that says Expert in Fine

7TH FORUM DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE TEXT: ALBERTO CAVALLI IL L US TR ATION S : MIX & REMIX

uture in Progress, the title of the 7th Forum de la

la Haute Horlogerie, insisted on the need to adopt the right

Haute Horlogerie held in Lausanne on November

standpoint and observe situations from outside the constraints

18th 2015, raised two questions: can change be

of the present. She reminded the audience of the Forum's

envisaged without recollection of the past, and

international vocation, and emphasised that fine watchmaking

how should we consider the future when mysterious forces,

must avoid becoming trapped by the limits of the product, and

be they economic, social or political, influence our every

capture cultural changes to then develop meaningful strategies

endeavour? Fabienne Lupo, who chairs the Fondation de

for the future.

Photo: Grégory Maillot – Point-of-view

From left to right: Michael Green, Harry Cliff, Fabienne Lupo, Tim Harford, Bertrand Piccard, Winter Nie, Enrico Letta, Franco Cologni, Bruno Giussani, Yves Morieux.

Franco Cologni, president of the Fondation's Cultural Council,

Prime Minister of Italy and now dean of the Paris School of

spoke of the challenges facing progress when individualism

International Affairs at Sciences Po warned that reducing our

threatens to undermine memory's cultural roots. Beauty, with its

view to the present is a dangerous sign of dis-integration which

elements of authenticity, ethics and culture, is the only means of

can jeopardise the cultural, economic and social process that

ensuring that the mind is concerned not just with the synthesis

is fundamental to the future of Europe. At a time when the Old

of facts, but is also the seat of sentiment and creativity.

Continent is divided between North and South, and regrettably

According to James Henderson, professor at IMD (the venue

now between East and West too, we must find a new way to

for the event), it takes exactly this type of creative imagination to

approach questions of integration, development and common

picture oneself not as some behemoth, destined for extinction,

policies in a fast-changing world.

but as a constantly renewing force.

Economist Michael Green also spoke of tolerance and

Throughout the morning, as speakers took turns to deliver

integration. He highlighted the different and often unexpected

thought-provoking content, references and prospects for the

ways in which we measure or perceive the future of capitalism

future, a single common denominator emerged: the need for

in the world. Winter Nie, who is operations and service

intelligent cooperation if we are to see further ahead, leave

management professor at IMD, presented case studies of

behind outdated preconceptions, and recognise opportunity,

Chinese firms which, through innovation, have moved from

danger and unexpected twists in the road.

being the “world’s factory” to a more competitive model

Enrico Letta advocated closer, more efficient cooperation

focused on cost, speed, the customer, and an entrepreneurial

between European member states that respects individual

“can-do” attitude.

cultural identities. Questioning the state of Europe, the former

A particle physicist at Cambridge University, collaborating

with CERN in Geneva, Harry Cliff made a forceful point.

Yves Morieux, director of Boston Consulting Group Institute for

Taking the beauty of an algebraic equation as his starting

Organization, brilliantly demonstrated the value of cooperation

point, he showed how the very concepts of time and space

and understanding as a means of improving performance in

become insignificant when analysing the infinitely small. Each

the workplace.

field of research obeys principles of relativity that should be

Technological innovation was intended to boost productivity.

considered not as a rigid framework but as representations

Instead, we find ourselves grappling with sprawling,

which the mind can and must analyse in order to either revoke

mismanaged complexities that absorb the potential for

or go beyond them.

productivity and make for less efficient management. A better

The limits of economic forecasts were brought to the fore

future, he argued, should take the form of gradual simplification

by Tim Harford, a columnist with the Financial Times. He

based on active cooperation.

emphasised the need for “actively open-minded thinking”,

Bringing the Forum to its conclusion, psychiatrist and

marked by the willingness to accept that we could be wrong

explorer Bertrand Piccard talked about why our thoughts

and change our opinion accordingly. He also highlighted the

and expectations need to gain altitude, thus allowing us a

importance of asking the right questions and considering what

wiser, more detached view of the future. Looking back, with

course of action we should take should an imagined scenario

humour, at his own achievements and debacles, he added

come true, bearing in mind that disorder and disruption can

a new metric – altitude – to the more familiar parameters of

kickstart creativity.

economic growth.

Photo: Grégory Maillot – Point-of-view

Enrico Letta, dean of the Paris School of International Affairs at Sciences Po and former Prime Minister of Italy.

CONVERSATION WITH ENRICO LETTA

Vast databases, the spread of the internet and unlimited

Where is the real enemy in a society in which no-one feels

access to information have changed that. While this has had

safe?

no repercussions on formal authority, it does compromise

For centuries, we identified our enemy as foreign, and it is still

moral authority. Again, we need to consider changes to

our gut reaction to point the finger of blame in that direction.

education. We need to make compasses. A compass isn't

The question is how to go about modifying our intellectual

about amassing information but rather selecting the information

reflection in order to identify our real enemies, such as

that will point us in the right direction. A moral authority.

terrorists. They are enemies but they are not necessarily

How can we avoid becoming prisoners of the maze of

foreigners. In many cases they are our fellow citizens. This

power?

requires a huge mental effort that must take in education

We need to elevate the level and start thinking about sharing

and training: a central investment to activate fundamental

sovereignty. We must be prepared to reconsider the nation-

transitions in logic.

state that we still use as a facade for power while failing to

How can we establish a moral authority in a world bereft of

realise that it no longer has any place. Only at the highest level

authority?

can we hope to recover sovereignty effectively and within a

The transition from authority to moral authority is essential in

reasonable timeframe. People think there is “too much Europe”

our contemporary world. Authority used to belong to whoever

and want to take a step backwards, when the opposite is true.

had the monopoly on information: a ministry was invested with

There are many areas where, if we really want to grow, what

authority because it alone was privy to certain information.

we need isn't less Europe, but more.

PHENOMENOLOGY OF THE SMARTWATCH MIX & REMIX WHAT FUTURE IS THERE FOR SMARTWATCHES? DO WE REALLY NEED THEM? ARE THEY GADGETS OR ACCESSORIES? WITH HUMOUR AS SHARP AS HIS PENCIL, OUR VERY SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT FROM THE WORLD OF COMIC BOOKS ANSWERS YOUR QUESTIONS.

TEXTS

CONTRIBUTORS

ALBERTO CAVALLI Alberto Cavalli is managing director of the Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte, a private, not-for-profit institution for the promotion and preservation of fine craftsmanship. He is a professor at Milan Politecnico school of design and at the Creative Academy, where he leads seminars dedicated to craftsmanship and to the applied arts. He is a correspondent for the Russian magazine Kak Potratit and contributes to the Centre du Luxe et de la Création in Paris. BENJAMIN CLYMER Benjamin Clymer is the founder and executive editor of HODINKEE, one of the most popular digital wristwatch magazines in the world, and one of Time Magazine’s 50 Best Websites. A well-known tastemaker, Benjamin Clymer has been celebrated by the New York Times as “The High Priest of Horology” and has consulted with such leading consumer brands as Ralph Lauren and Apple. He is also an established journalist, holding a Masters in journalism from the Columbia University School of Journalism. Benjamin Clymer’s interests lie in vintage sports watches of the 1960s and 70s. He sees the wristwatch as the perfect combination of style, engineering and art, and gained his knowledge through years of reading old auction catalogues. ELIZABETH DOERR Elizabeth Doerr fell under the spell of watchmaking on her very first visit to Baselworld in 1991. Her articles are read by millions of people every year and appear in newspapers and magazines as well as online, foremost on her own digital magazine QuillAndPad.com. Elizabeth Doerr published Twelve Faces of Time, her first book, in 2010, which has been described as a “love letter” to independent watchmakers.

ALBERTO GEROSA Alberto Gerosa’s fascination with time and time measurement began while still a student reading philosophy. Convinced of the benefits to be derived from an interdisciplinary approach – as confirmed by the scope of his activities, from lecturing in Russian literature at Vienna University to an interest in the Far East, not to mention journalism – his articles emphasise the intersections that exist between horology, aesthetics and the history of both culture and technology. Alberto Gerosa is a contributor to Arbiter, an influential Italian men's lifestyle magazine, and its watch supplement, Q/E. He is the author of a book about writing instruments and timepieces decorated using traditional Japanese lacquering techniques. MICHEL JEANNOT Michel Jeannot heads the Bureau d’Information et de Presse Horlogère (BIPH) in Switzerland, a team of journalists working with a dozen media worldwide. A columnist and freelance journalist, and a member of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Cultural Council, he is founder and editor-in-chief of Montres Le Guide (205,000 circulation), published in Switzerland. His articles can be read in Bilan, Le Figaro, Huffington Post, La Tribune des Arts and HH Magazine online. SEAN LI Sean Li has always been fascinated by timekeeping, and was truly drawn into its inner workings when he took a close look at a perpetual calendar for the first time. Working in information technology until 2009, his career changed significantly when he took on the editorial director’s role at Revolution magazine in Hong Kong. In addition to Revolution Hong Kong, Sean oversees watch content for Tatler in Asia, and has been a member of the jury for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2012.

PIERRE MAILLARD Editor-in-chief since 1994 of Europa Star, the international watch trade magazine, Pierre Maillard has a particular interest in the cultural, social and economic aspects of the watch sector. He writes for a number of publications and regularly contributes to the activities of the FHH. AURO MONTANARI Auro Montanari began his obsession with wristwatches as a graduate school student. He has been collecting and studying vintage watches for 35 years and still spends many hours browsing through watch shops, old libraries, museums, flea markets and auctions. He is a true horological scholar and a serious collector of the highest order. Auro Montanari is perhaps best-known to watch lovers by his pseudonym, John Goldberger, author of 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, Patek Philippe Steel Watches, Longines Watches and Omega Watches, as well as vintage watch applications on Appstore. He is a member of the jury for the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, a member of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Cultural Council, and an advisor to Phillips. JOE THOMPSON Joe Thompson is editor-in-chief of WatchTime magazine, headquartered in New York City. He has covered watches and the global watch industry since 1977. He has been editor-in-chief of three watchoriented magazines since 1982. Joe Thompson’s articles on watches have appeared in Esquire, Town & Country, Golf Digest, and Switzerland’s Bilanz magazine. He has won nine journalism awards from the American Business Press and the Society of Professional Journalists.

ILLUSTRATIONS

PHOTOS

MIX & REMIX Mix & Remix, the pen name of Philippe Becquelin, was born in Switzerland on April 6th 1958. He began his career in 1984, the same year he obtained his diploma in art. His cartoons are published in the Swiss news magazine Le Matin Dimanche. He also draws live on television. Mix & Remix was part of the original team of the French satirical newspaper Siné Hebdo. His cartoons are published in France in Courrier International, Lire, L’Express and Clés, and in L’Internazionale in Italy.

SILVIA BADALOTTI Silvia Badalotti’s unique photography reflects the research she pours into each image, which gives her work its undeniable artistic value. Since 1992 she has contributed to leading Italian and international magazines, including Vanity Fair, Wired, Riders, Class, Elle, Vogue Japan, Russian Vogue and CartierArt. She also develops advertising campaigns for major agencies, among them JWT, McCann Erickson Worldwide, Ogilvy and Publicis, and for Italian brands including Prada, Tod’s, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, San Pellegrino and Bulgari. In 2004 she joined Condiviso, a network of companies and professionals offering services to established enterprises and those eager to transform their ideas into business.

CARLO STANGA Born in Italy, the author of our covers has always been passionate about drawing. After graduating in architecture from the Politecnico in Milan, he further developed his skills by studying art and design. A collaboration with influential Italian designer Bruno Munari helped shape Carlo’s way of seeing the world. As an editorial and advertising illustrator, Carlo works with major Italian magazines and newspapers such as La Repubblica, Il Sole 24ore and RCS, and with international clients in Europe and the United States including UNESCO, Mapei, Board International, Brioni, NCTM, Missoni, Poliform, Club Med, and MTA New York. His distinctive style has won him a succession of Italian illustration awards. His work has also been selected by the American Illustration Annual and won the GoldMedal Award in Creative Quarterly’s #15 contest, as well as Awards of Excellence from Communication Arts. In 2015 he published I am Milan, the first in a collection of illustrated books, for Moleskine, about major cities around the world. Carlo lives and works in Berlin.

ALFONSO CUCINELLI Alfonso Cucinelli lives and works in Milan, Italy. Architect, illustrator and 3D artist, he is a regular contributor to magazines and publishing houses. He creates full-3D graphic virtual environments for photography studios, furniture manufacturers, architecture and interior design firms, and advertising and visual communication agencies. LAZIZ HAMANI “Discovering richness in uniqueness, and beauty in the ordinary, is an art”. Light is the secret to this sublimation, which can only take place through silent confrontation. A permanent torchbearer for the sublime and the most prestigious know-how, Laziz Hamani has perfected the art of transcending an already perfect raw material. His meticulous attention to lighting creates a hushed but sometimes also explosive aesthetic. Inspired collaborations with the publishing world, including with Assouline, are essential in fuelling his artistic photography.

CONCEPTION AND DIRECTION FRANCO COLOGNI MANAGING EDITOR LARA LO CALZO ARTISTIC DIRECTION GRAFICHE ANTIGA SPA EDITORIAL BOARD CLAUDIO CASTELLACCI . FRANCESCA DONELLI . GRÉGORY GARDINETTI FABIENNE LUPO . FREDI MARCARINI . JULIEN PFISTER . IVANA RADICA . FABIO TETA TEXTS ALBERTO CAVALLI . BENJAMIN CLYMER . ELIZABETH DOERR ALBERTO GEROSA . MICHEL JEANNOT . SEAN LI PIERRE MAILLARD . AURO MONTANARI . JOE THOMPSON PHOTOS AND ILLUSTRATIONS SILVIA BADALOTTI . ALFONSO CUCINELLI LAZIZ HAMANI . MIX & REMIX . CARLO STANGA PHOTO AGENCIES AND ARCHIVES BEN HUPFER / CORBIS (P. 34, 37) . GALLERY STOCK (P. 58, 60) GRÉGORY MAILLOT / POINT-OF-VIEW (P. 81, 83) . TIMELAB (P. 52) ENGLISH AND FRENCH TEXTS ADAPTED BY SANDRA PETCH . MICHÈLE SALVAT PUBLISHER MESTIERI D’ARTE SRL VIA LOVANIO 5 - 20121 MILAN, ITALY TECHNICAL COORDINATION, PREPRESS AND PRINTING GRAFICHE ANTIGA SPA VIA DELLE INDUSTRIE 1 31035 CROCETTA DEL MONTELLO (TV), ITALY

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