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MORE THAN JUST
By Matt Robinson
PUMPKIN SPICE MAKERS CONTINUE TO ADD FLAVOR TO THE FOOD INDUSTRY
It has been said that variety is the spice of life, but for those who make spices, it may be their variety of products and approaches that truly allows them to make a living. Spices have been used for millennia around the world to add flavor and health benefits to food. If they did not improve a person’s health, spices were also used for funerary rites and other sacrifices. In addition to being part of our pantries, spices also worked their way into our vocabulary as well. The phrase ”worth your salt” came from the fact that Roman soldiers were actually paid in salt, which was (and remains) a valuable food preservative. In fact, the Latin word for salt - “salarium” – is the root of our word “salary”! Speaking of salaries, many continue to make them using these ancient ingredients. Among those who still treasure the history of their wares is Steven Bortnick of Boston Spice (www.bostonspice.com). Each one of his over 80 custom blends comes not only with its own hand-made fresh flavors but also with a bit of history that explains where the spice’s name came from and what inspired it. “We teach people a little…history and reasonings for each of our spice blends,” Bortnick explains, offering as an example the popular corned beef spice called “Southie” in honor of the historic Irish immigrant population in South Boston. “According to historian James Cullen,” Bortnick explains, “a large number of Irish immigrants arrived in Boston as early as 1654…and were sold into indentured servitude. Since then, the Irish have become one of the largest ethnic groups in Boston and the annual St. Patrick’s Day Parade is stuff of legend, just as so many historic activities in Boston are.
As it is impossible to speak of Boston history without mentioning the American Revolution, Bortnick also offers such flavors as the Battle Road and Bloody Rebellion rubs, Bunker Hill BBQ blend, and the Gadsden-inspired duo of Don’t Tread on My Chicken and Don’t Tread on My Fish. As for his company’s historic story, Bortnick recalls graduating from the fames culinary program at nearby Johnson & Wales University and becoming a chef and kitchen manager for a major area chain. “During my 12 years of managing the back of the house and front of the house working all night shifts, weekends, and holidays…[I] got tired of cooking and serving flavorless food.” Suggesting that many corporate-made restaurant recipes are, “pretty bland in general” and decrying the fact that, in many cases, adjustments are not allowed, Bortnick fell back on his early understanding that “adding something to food to make it flavorful is the most basic of cooking” and opted to toss in his toq and go out on his own. “I decided that I will have to help people make their food taste good,” he beams, noting his corporate slogan, “Start A Revolution In Your Mouth” Though many of his mixes are broadly applicable, Bortnick knows that many home chefs are wary to use new flavors and so offers not only names that hint at suggested uses but also a collection of “Yummy” recipes on his website. “Most people decide what spice blends to use based on the food they are going to cook,” he observes, decrying how many grab old spices or gloppy sauces off the shelf and cover up their food instead of bringing out its best. “We try to give some meaning as to why our spice
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blends are tasty and fun. We might not be able to teach someone how to physically cook their food, but we sure can help them make their food flavorful.”
MOST PEOPLE DECIDE WHAT SPICE BLENDS TO USE BASED ON THE FOOD THEY ARE GOING TO COOK,” HE OBSERVES, DECRYING HOW MANY GRAB OLD SPICES OR GLOPPY SAUCES OFF THE SHELF AND COVER UP THEIR FOOD INSTEAD OF BRINGING OUT ITS BEST. Though most of his flavors are locally-inspired, Bortnick is selling on his website and also through Amazon, etsy, and Walmart. To expand his reach and also his sense of “fun,” he has also partnered with local venues like the Boston Tea Party Ship and Museum, the Boston Stone Gift Shop, and the Town Of Lexington Visitors Center in Lexington Mass (home of the :shot heard ‘round the world”). He has also partnered with a local vintner to offer kits that combine wine and mulling spices.
