Winter 2023 (Vol. 80)

Cover Pages_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 11/25/23 6:00 PM Page 1

Cover Pages_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 11/25/23 6:00 PM Page 2

Contents_Design_Win 23_Ed.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/25/23 7:20 PM Page 1

Contents_Design_Win 23_Ed.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/25/23 7:20 PM Page 2

Contents_Design_Win 23_Ed.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/25/23 7:20 PM Page 3

Contents_Design_Win 23_Ed.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/25/23 7:20 PM Page 4

contents W I N T E R 2 02 3 | VO LU M E 8 0

WINTER 2023

FEATURES

14 | 30 | 36 |

PROFILE | Osteria Italian Seafood Serial restaurateur Jared Matthews applies his energy and impeccable taste to Westport Village, focusing on the seafood and wines of Italy.

PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MARTY ROSEN EXECUTIVE EDITOR

PROFILE | Haraz Coffee House

ROGER BAYLOR

Historians may debate the ancient origins of coffee, but Yemen makes a strong case. And history aside, right now Haraz is introducing an ancient tradition to modern tastes.

PHOTOGRAPHERS

PROFILE | Kebab House With only nine tables, this family-run eatery focuses on excellent execution of iconic dishes from the Middle East.

DAN DRY HEATHER WIBBELS COLUMNISTS ROGER BAYLOR SARA HAVENS LELIA GENTLE KEVIN GIBSON

COLUMNS Starters

8|

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes in the local restaurant scene — with openings, closings, changes and more.

HEATHER WIBBELS FEATURE WRITERS ROGER BAYLOR CARY STEMLE ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD GRAPHIC DESIGN & PRODUCTION ED ROTHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE

Liquids

12 | 20 | 22 | 26 |

BAR BELLE | What’s up with Gen Z bar patrons?

RON MIKULAK | KAREN SHANE DANIEL BOYLE

Our Bar Belle looks at whether there’s an emerging alcohol generation gap.

COCKTAIL CONTESSA | Winter warmers The romance of glistening nights and snow-covered landscapes summons up a thirst for seasonal cocktails. Our Cocktail Contessa offers suggestions.

Food OFF THE EATEN PATH | Starving Artist Cafe Our intrepid explorer of culinary byways discovers adventurous sandwiches and homemade soups in a cafe that channels the hippie vibe.

LELIA’S KITCHEN | Clam chowder — three ways Nothing is more comforting than soup on a cold winter day.

And the most comforting of soups is chowder. For your consideration, Lelia offers three variations.

RESTAURANT GUIDE

40 | Dining Guide 78 | Maps

Our comprehensive list of over 1,500 Louisville eateries is a unique and essential tool for area diners.

(RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Location is everything for diners and for restaurateurs — and our one-of-a kind maps cover the entire Metro region.

4

IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR FRIENDS AND COLLEAGUES

Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 502.509.EATS (3287)

www.foodanddine.com socialmedia@foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine @FoodAndDining

For advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS) Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER Shrimp cocktail from Osteria Italian Seafood (page 14).

Photo by Dan Dry

Contents_Design_Win 23_Ed.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 11/25/23 7:20 PM Page 5

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023

5

Comings & Goings_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 7:41 PM Page 6

Comings & Goings_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 7:41 PM Page 7

Comings & Goings_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 7:41 PM Page 8

starters | comings & goings

comings & goings

BY ROGER BAYLOR

By The Economist newspaper’s estimation, there were a tenth fewer eating places open in America in 2022 than in 2019. However, the Louisville metropolitan area in 2019 saw 131 comings to 77 goings. In 2020 the tally was 132 to 80, so we bucked that trend. And our market continued to grow in 2023. Our annual tally indicates 166 openings versus 93 closings. Here’s the quarterly breakdown: Spring saw 40 comings and 37 goings; Summer 50-22; Fall 41-15; and Winter 35-23. Honestly, we’re accustomed to numbers like these.

Why? Analysts, think tanks and soothsayers are free to advance their own theories, but I propose to bring 2023 to a close by refraining from deep analysis. Resolved: Louisville is one of the best food towns in the country—it’s who we are, and what we do—so let’s be thankful for what we have, and hope it continues.

COMINGS Louisvillians know The Eagle Food & Beer Hall from its portal on Bardstown Road, where house-brined, hand-dredged fried chicken and all those “comfort sides” have built such an avid following, that it’s time for another at Oxmoor Center (7900 Shelbyville Rd.), near Topgolf.

Five minutes away in Westport Village, Osteria Italian Seafood (1211 Herr Ln.) is restaurateur Jared Matthews’ loving reboot of the long-running Napa, transformed into a comfortable showcase for Italian-American influenced fresh seafood (yes, Louisville loves its UPS hub), pasta, soups, salads and desserts.

Ens (1758 Frankfort Ave. in Clifton) means “full circle” and represents a blend of traditions from Chef Lawrence Weeks and the team at North of Bourbon, as Japanese techniques and influences combine with Southern ingredients. Five blocks east, Miki’s Korean Restaurant and Karaoke Bar (2230 Frankfort Ave.) pairs second-to-none karaoke with simple but serious Korean finger food.

Downtown at the Kentucky Center for the Performing Arts (501 W. Main St.), the center’s Lexus Lounge has added The Chef’s Table VIP Club as an all-inclusive pre-show and intermission food and beverage option. Conversely, Back of the House Collective Yard (3215 Preston Hwy.) near the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center is Louisville’s first designated food truck yard, hosting six rotating vendors, yard games and a miniature dog park.

Geographically, Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row” (original Highlands and beyond) and Southern Indiana both excelled in the 4th quarter.

Bardstown Road begins where Baxter Avenue crosses Highland Avenue, near to where Kebab House (969 Baxter Ave.) channels the late, lamented Falafel House with kebabs, shawarma and more. A few doors down WNB Factory (1019 Bardstown Rd.), an Atlanta-based franchise, is set to open featuring, as they say, “the best darn wings &

craft burgers you’ve ever had.” And just next door to WNB will soon be a restaurant and lounge from Amet “Sol Aztecas” Bullaudy, Beyond the Sun (1023 Bardstown Rd.), which will have American and international cuisine with nightly entertainment.

Nearby is the second location of Germantown’s signature pizzeria The Post (1759 Bardstown Rd.), with pizza and subs for takeout only.

In Deer Park, Top 1 Korean BBQ & Hotpot (1801 Bardstown Rd.) will soon, after several delays, rejuvenate the former Bard’s Town space with jeongol, or Korean fondue.

Similarly, growth continues in Southern Indiana. Derby City Pizza’s 7th area location is open at 412 W. Daisy Ln. in New Albany. At Rickhouse Barbecue (216 Pearl St.) in the Mesa Kitchen incubator, veterans of the food truck wars have a bricks ‘n’ mortar presence. The city’s La Catrina Mexican Kitchen now has its own spinoff in Jeffersonville: La Catrina Tacos & Tequila (125 W. Chestnut St.) Also in Jeffersonville, the long-dormant Portage House property hosts Game on the River (117 E. Riverside Dr,), adding seafood dishes to the original Game’s exotic proteins like alpaca and wild boar.

Dropping anchor amid Clarksville’s waterfront “town center” development are two popular Louisville entities: Goodbounce Pickleball Yard (1220 Main St.), with six indoor courts and “eatertainment,” including lagers and ales from Ten20 Craft Brewery’s (1400 Main St.) first Indiana taproom.

International cuisine continues to expand, bringing world flavors into most Louisville neighborhoods, as with Tomo Japanese Ramen Sushi (5023 Mud Ln.) in southernmost Louisville and Veronica’s Mexican Restaurant (5044 Poplar Level Rd.) in Newburg, pushing boundaries with birria ramen and eggrolls.

Xian’s Kitchen (12338 Shelbyville Rd.) showcases the diversity of Filipino cuisine in Middletown. Maira Mediterranean Grill (4000 Dutchmans Ln.) replaces the short-lived Mirage, bringing a range of Continued on page 10

8 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

Comings & Goings_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 7:41 PM Page 9

comings & goings | starters

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 9

Comings & Goings_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 7:42 PM Page 10

starters | comings & goings Middle Eastern dishes to St. Matthews. Noche Mexican BBQ’s blend of West Texas barbecue and Mexican specialties has come to The Village Market food hall in Paristown (712 Brent St.) Culinary trends come and go, but sports bars are America. Last Place (121 W. Main St.) stays open late in the basement at the Number 15 entertainment complex. Twin Peaks (302 Bullitt Ln.) in St. Matthews is a Hooters-esque “sports lodge,” and Walk On’s Sports Bistreaux (970 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy. in Clarksville) touts Louisianainfluenced, scratch-made dishes.

Middletown is a magnet for coffee shops, doughnut sellers and bakery cafes. Born2Bagel (231 Blankenbaker Pkwy.) offers bagels made from an old family recipe, and lox lovingly imported straight from The Big Apple. The Outer Banks-themed Duck Doughnuts franchise (13325 Station Rail Way) specializes in sprinkles, and 7 Brew Coffee (12525 Shelbyville Rd.) is a rapidly expanding chain of double-drivethru coffee dispensaries.

The Bakery at Sullivan University, on hiatus since the pandemic, has reappeared as a European-style, dine-in bakery café at 3100 Bardstown Rd. in the Gardiner Lane neighborhood. In St. Matthews, Better Blend Nutrition (4149 Shelbyville Rd.), sells smoothies, bowls and “wellness,” while Cherry Pickin’ (828 E. Main St. at NuLu Marketplace) is a breakfast/lunch “juicery” with healthy fare.

The changing nature of work, remote versus office, leaves Louisville’s downtown business searching for a post-pandemic identity.

Good news comes with the advent of The Misfit Lou (119 S. 7th St.), a beer bar serving “mischievous” sandwiches, sausages and spirits.

Finally, the franchise front: Chicken Salad Chick brings namesake sandwiches to 7706 Bardstown Rd. (south of the Gene Snyder Freeway), and Jaggers Restaurant (13801 English Villa Dr.), Texas Roadhouse’s fast-casual creation, debuts in route to Valhalla—the golf club, that is.

MOVES & CHANGES After 26 years, Bearno’s Pizza downtown no longer perches by the Clark Memorial Bridge, having relocated two short blocks away as Bearno’s on Market (301 W. Market St.), formerly Southern Restaurant & Lounge, which closed in late summer.

Following lodging at Chef Space restaurant incubator, Lucretia Thompson brings Lucretia’s Kitchen to Old Louisville (617 W. Oak St.), with daily themed soul food specials and her grandfather’s legendary Liquid Gold barbecue sauce. Also in Old Louisville, Taqueria Los Gorditos changed its name to Tacos Los Gorditos (meaning “the fat ones”) as a prelude to opening a fourth area location at 317 W. Oak St. Departing Logan Street Market, Foko (991 Logan St., Shelby Park) expands its American South-meets-Mexico options for breakfast, lunch and brunch. Six Forks Burger Co. (1039 Ash St.) appeared to have closed, but after a rethink and tech refit, the Germantown eatery is back for takeout-only. Belatedly, we see that South End BBQ (8610 Dixie Hwy.) moved to Bardstown in May, 2023 and became Family Barbecue.

There are openings, and there are closings, and then there’s the little-known category called “Pea Soup Fog,” as with The Champagnery 10 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

at Architype Gallery (1764 Frankfort Ave.), currently closed for “winter break,” although when this pause began, in 2022 or 2023, remains unclear. Fortunately, the nearby Wine Rack stocks Moët & Chandon, and we’re keeping a bottle chilled for the big reopening reveal.

CLOSiNGS We begin with Manhattan Grill (429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd.), which began serving lunchtime diners downtown in 1997. Retirement beckoned for owner Mitch Lary, and he grabbed it. In Germantown, 20 years of good times and Chicago-style Italian food ended when Comeback inn (909 Swan St.) made a graceful October exit, while in Clifton, Comfy Cow shuttered its pink-hued flagship shop at 2223 Frankfort Ave. Unfortunately, restaurateurs aren’t always able to control their destinies. A massive September fire left Osaka Sushi (426 W. Market St.) and The Salad Chic (428 W. Market St.) without quarters. Both are seeking new premises. Also downtown, Southern Restaurant & Lounge (301 W. Market St.) made way for the relocated Bearno’s on Market. Nearby in Paristown, The Village Market food hall (712 Brent St.) lost Ramble Fried Chicken and Taco Rito following brief tenures.

In Old Louisville, Neon Pizza (1201 S. First St.) has concluded an 18month run.

Starting in 2020, there was a proliferation of Asian-infused, Cajunboiled seafood restaurants, 16 of them at the peak, now contracted to only four after Pier 17 Cajun Seafood (5362 Dixie Hwy.), Seafood Lady (3207 Fern Valley Rd.), and Sweet & Juicy Seafood (8402 Hudson Ln.) closed. Sweet & Juicy’s food truck lives on, and Pier 17 and Seafood Lady primary locations remain at 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. and 601 E. Jefferson St., respectively.

Other restaurants contracting include J. Gumbo’s (8603 Citadel Way; two locations remain), Panchito’s ice Cream & Taqueria (2245 Bardstown Rd. in the Highlands; one still left) and Señor iguana’s (3105 S. Second St.), now down to two, although the group’s La Catrina brand is growing.

Two closings earlier in 2023 deserve recognition. The Goat (700 Landis Ridge Dr.) in Middletown, part of a regional chain, functioned somewhat as a social community with food, drink, volleyball and related events. In the South End at 7208 Whipple Rd., Catfish Haven Pay Lake Bar and Grill’s name said it all: Catch fish, eat fish and have a few beers, all in one stop.

Speaking of the life aquatic, Hooked on Frankfort (3202 Frankfort Ave.), dating to 2019 as an offshoot of the Frankfort Avenue Beer Depot, is no more. Neither is MexA Tacos (3701 Lexington Rd.), into which the adjacent Asahi Japanese Restaurant will expand. Three short-lived vendors of world cuisine, all located in the East End, also ended: Gold Sweet Bakery (529 Lyndon Ln.), Mirage Mediterranean Restaurant (4000 Dutchmans Ln.) and Paradise Fine indian and American (12951 Shelbyville Rd.), representing Cuba, the Middle East and India, respectively.

Concluding this edition of conclusions, we observe that with the passing of the O’Charley’s at 4404 Dixie Hwy., just one remains in metropolitan Louisville. Requiescat in pace. F&D

Comings & Goings_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/27/23 11:49 AM Page 11

comings & goings | starters

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 11

Bar Belle_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 7:47 PM Page 12

liquids | the bar belle

Belle B elle

The

Bar

BY SARA HAVENS AKA THE BAR BELLE

I

Does this column make me lookold?

never thought I’d be the old lady at the bar complaining about kids these days, but alas, here I am in all my Gen X glory hole. Normally

I keep to myself and my posse of pals when I’m out among Louisville’s wide array of neighborhood taverns, but lately I’ve been observing the bewildering behaviors of younger patrons. Like Claire Danes poring over an evidence board while chaotic jazz plays in the background, I’m categorizing, labeling, hypothesizing, spreadsheeting, making notes and taking names.

Listen, I’m not mad at ya. I’m just a little concerned. When I turned 21, I couldn’t wait to legally order my first drink at a bar.

In fact, because of a kind soul at a roadside liquor store somewhere outside of Lancaster, Ohio, on Route 33, I was able to purchase a bottle of Andre sparkling wine an hour before the clock struck midnight to begin my 21st birthday. I was about an hour from my dorm room in Athens, Ohio (Go Bobcats!), so the clerk figured I wouldn’t be able open it until I made it back. He was right. And I was a hero bringing bubbly to my thirsty roommates.

But you all turn 21 and you’re nowhere near a bar! You’re filming TikTok videos or storming the Taylor Swift merch tent. You’re not sipping a Sex on the Beach, you’re actually having cake by the 12 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

ocean. Don’t you want to figure out if you like margaritas with or without salt? What color of wine you prefer: red, white or pink?

Do you sin with gin or hum with rum? And when it comes to beer, are you a bottle snob or a draft dodger?

Y’all don’t seem to be as attracted to carrying on at bars and consuming crappy alcoholic beverages as my generation was when we came of age. And that’s OK if we’re talking about your health and all. But as a buzzing barfly in this town, I’d like my mainstays to be successful and thrive for many more years. I’m trying my best to keep several of them afloat, but my measly bourbon budget can’t do it alone.

For the handful of you youngins who do crowd my space at the bar, I’ve got some interesting observations to share: • While my generation was down with OPP, yours seems to be consumed with CBD. • We had Zima and Goldschläger, you have Truly and Fireball.

• We ate Fruity Pebbles. You vape Fruity Pebbles.

• You have Furries. We had Furbies.

• We had Phil Collins on drums. You have Emily in Paris.

• You know how to work the latest iPhone before it even comes out. We know how to fix a frozen Nintendo and set the time on a VCR. • We got our driver’s licenses THE VERY DAY we turned 16.

You all wait till after 18 and beyond to hit the road.

• You got awards. We got detention and summer school.

This list could go on and on, and mostly I’m just teasing here.

Of course there are Millennials and GenZers I love and a$$holes from my own generation I can’t stand. Cocktail culture also has

Bar Belle_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 7:48 PM Page 13

the bar belle | liquids

improved immensely since I started out, with dreadful concoctions like Kamikazes, Buttery Nipples and Purple Hooters being replaced with respectable options like Old Fashioneds, Espresso Martinis and Aperol Spritzes.

The moral of this story? Let’s respect each other no matter how well our knees still work, and if you can get your ass to the bar, I’ll buy the first round and tell you why you should never mix red wine and black licorice.

Espresso Martinis in my mouth!

There’s no shame in the espresso game here in Louisville, and many area bars are offering up their own delicious versions on the upper-downer mash-up. Typically the trending cocktail is made with vodka, Kahlua and cold brew coffee, but I’ve had some locally that have subbed in bourbon for the spirit — and that’s much better in my humble opinion. Regardless, here’s a shout-out to some establishments where you can find these pleasurable pick-meups.

For the standard Espresso Martini recipe, Frankfort Avenue Liquors and Big Bar can whip up some tasty ones. And for twists on the drink, check out Epiphany with its Curvy Cowboy, North of Bourbon with its Frozen Kentucky Coffee slushie, and Neat Bourbon Bar with its magnificent take on the coffee-centric cocktail called After Hours. It’s made with bourbon, cold brew, Benedictine and lemon oil. Watch Hill Proper does it right with its Bold Brew Martini, and even Morning Fork offers one up for its breakfast clientele with the Kentucky Russian.

You’ll likely see espresso-style drinks pop up on menus all over town. These listed above are mere suggestions on where to start.

There you have it. I’ve done run out of space. If I missed you, please forgive me. But give yourself a huge pat on the back, because the fact that you’re still here means you’re doing something right. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 13

Osteria_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:07 PM Page 14

profile | osteria italian seafood

Jared Matthews

Osteria Italian Seafood Following in the footsteps of Napa, continental character comes to Westport Village

BY ROGER BAYLOR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

L

et’s get to the gnocchi of the matter, because I’m here to advance the proposition that Jared Matthews is Louisville’s restaurateur of the moment.

Even if you don’t recognize Jared Matthews at first glance, there’s a good chance you’ve wined, dined, brandished a pool cue or rocked out to some tunes with him at some point during the past decade, seeing as he has been accumulating restaurants, bars and all-purpose entertainment emporiums the

way kids used to collect baseball cards — embarrassing the Energizer Bunny, but con-

juring well-managed venues for the rest of us to patronize and make our memories.

Matthews’ latest project is Osteria Italian Seafood, formerly Napa, which debuted in Westport Village in September of 2023, drawing crowds of diners (reser-

vations are suggested, even for weekday lunches and Sunday brunch) and impressing

local reviewers with Matthews’ innate knack for creative culinary makeovers.

14 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

Osteria_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:07 PM Page 15

osteria italian seafood | profile

502.423.5822 1211 Herr Lane (Westport Village) Louisville, KY

osterialouisville.com

15

Osteria_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:07 PM Page 16

profile | osteria italian seafood

M

atthews has demonstrated a canny approach to eatery empire building from the very start, a mere six years ago, when he purchased Café Lou Lou in St. Matthews from founder Clay Wallace and launched a redubbed Lou Lou Food + Drink, taking what was already there and making it better.

Only a year later came Equus and Jack’s Lounge, long-standing progeny of the late, beloved Chef Dean Corbett, located just steps away from Lou Lou on Sears Avenue and since rebranded as The Black Rabbit, containing multitudes of segmented inner sanctums for eating, drinking and socializing. It is the same — yet repurposed.

Successfully weathering the pandemic, Matthews leveraged another opportunity in 2022, when he assumed full control of Diamond Pub & Billiards, where he’d worked behind the bar for more than a decade, later acquiring an ownership stake. The Frankfort Avenue staple was comprehensively remodeled and modernized for a new generation, yielding The Fox Den. All the while Matthews was plotting a first foray outside his home turf of St. Matthews, which came to fruition in 2022 when the former Decca building in fashionable NuLu became available. It became Lou Lou on Market, a larger-scale sister establishment to the original, with the addition of STAVE, a bourbon bar with live jazz in the basement, and an outdoor French Quarter-styled courtyard.

Osteria Italian Seafood followed in September, 2023. Napa’s executive chef Seth Butkus stayed on board for Osteria, along with most of his kitchen crew, some of Napa’s more popular dishes (ahi tuna wontons and baked shrimp scampi, for example), and key front-of--house employees.

The bar, private dining area and exterior patio remained as configured

previously but Matthews redesigned the interior, emphasizing appropriately nautical tones of blue, beige and gray and adding ocean-themed paintings and artwork, including an amazing chalkboard mural drawn by kitchen employee Matt Smith.

Duly reconstituted, Osteria Italian Seafood then passed muster according to the “Six Degrees of Grisanti,” the favored parlor game of veteran Louisville foodies, which determines whether seemingly disparate eateries, all the way from current top tables right down to its humblest of weenie wagons, can be linked in some way to members of the Grisanti family—progenitors of our city’s modern era of food and dining consciousness with Casa Grisanti in 1959.

Osteria aced the Six Degrees owing to Napa, which began life in 1999 as the California-themed Napa River Grill, as emerging from the remnants of its immediate predecessor, Mamma Grisanti — founded by Michael Grisanti.

A critical difference in dynastic comparisons is that while there were generations of Grisantis, thus far there has been only one Jared Matthews, who at 44 moves like Jagger, possesses a food service superhero’s immunity to sleep, and exhibits a rare capacity to enable restaurant rehabilitation.

It certainly seems as if Matthews is everywhere at once, handling the many chores that define the existence of an independent restaurateur: hiring, overseeing, planning, monitoring, pleasing bureaucrats, meeting guests, tightening wobbly bar stools, repairing toilets and making love to mop buckets.

Every restaurateur knows that sweat equity and elbow grease help to balance the books, but multiply these tasks by Matthews’ five existing entities, and you’ll probably be as exhausted as I was merely writing the

Shrimp cocktail

16

Osteria_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:07 PM Page 17

osteria italian seafood | profile preceding paragraph. If necessary, pause briefly to catch your breath, pour a glass of chilly Cinzano Prosecco, and contemplate the meaning of an entrepreneur’s life.

How does Matthews do it?

“If you have a good team,” he says, “you can open lots of restaurants.”

You’ll seldom hear truer words spoken. At Osteria, Matthews and his right-hand man Miles South, director of operations for all five restaurants, lean heavily on Chef Butkus as well as the many workers who have provided carryover continuity from Napa, among them Butkus’ father Bennett, who works with his son in Osteria’s kitchen and has been known to prepare a wicked chowder.

It also helps that the restaurateur Matthews himself typically eschews the comfortable detachment of a secluded office suite in favor of being on the floor in the thick of things. As coaches from all sports agree, individual skill sets vary, but there’s never an excuse for failing to play hard, and consequently Matthews outhustles the competition, all the while retaining a refreshing and self-effacing perspective about his role, as at X (Twitter), where his bio says it all: “Follower of Christ, Husband, Father, and Friend to many.”

As oft times before, Matthews wasn’t really planning to open another restaurant. He already had four of them, along with a wife and four children, but then Craft Culture Concepts came calling. The investment group behind Parlour Pizza was preoccupied with franchising it, and Napa didn’t fit the emerging paradigm.

“I definitely knew that Napa had run its course,” Matthews explains. “I wanted to do a seafood place because in my opinion, there's not a whole lot of good fresh seafood places in Louisville, and we have the UPS hub, which gets fresh seafood here in 48 hours or less out of the water.”

Matthews loved Napa’s location in Westport Village.

It was built smartly for volume (6,200 square feet and seating for 200 persons inside, with more at the outdoor patio), and reconstruction costs could be kept to a minimum. Setting wheels into motion for the purchase, he was chatting with a friend when the idea for an Italian-themed seafood restaurant came up.

“My friend said, ‘you know, it would be great for this side of town to have a really good Italian restaurant, too, like an authentic independent Italian place.’ So I thought yeah, I could see that, maybe mix the two together.”

Already sold on seafood, as well as intrigued by the Italian angle, Matthews sat down with Napa’s Butkus, and the two hit it off immediately. They hit the road, visited restaurants throughout the region and did field research. The plan came together quickly: “We came up with a menu, and Seth cooked it. It was awesome.”

Matthews’ flair for reinvention was coming into play yet again, as influenced by his upbringing and experi-

Seared scallops

Shrimp fra diavolo

17

Osteria_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:07 PM Page 18

profile | osteria italian seafood

Short rib stracotto

Lobster sliders

Halibut agrodolce

ence. He was born in Marksville, Louisiana and lived in Alabama before moving to Kentucky. “We left when I was young,” he says, “but I grew up eating Cajun food. My dad taught me how to cook it. Most people eat turkey or ham for Christmas, but we eat gumbo.”

Hence the conceptual direction Matthews has traveled at his two Lou Lous. Conversely, The Black Rabbit’s “behind the bookcase” rebranding from Equus and Jack’s reveals Matthews’ fascination with speakeasies, while The Fox Den’s “not your grandfather’s pool hall” identity reflects his preferences for elevated bar food, craft cocktails, televised sports and live music.

For Matthews, Osteria’s seafood theme draws from a more elemental lure: family roots in North Carolina.

“We went to the Atlantic beaches all the time, and I've always just loved seafood,” he says. “We still go to the beach every year and get a house with all my extended family from North Carolina and South Carolina. We get fresh seafood, and cioppino is one of the big dishes that I cook.

People love it.”

Cioppino is fish stew, said to have originated in San Francisco, as adapted by Italian fishermen from their family recipes. It’s on the menu at Osteria, a name that invokes the the easy-going hospitable warmth, culinary excellence, and wineforward beverage program that define the quintessential experience of Italian dining.

Appropriately, the wine list at Louisville’s Osteria offers the requisite Italian whites and reds, arrayed alongside choices from the “rest of the world,” alongside a full bar program of beer, liquors and cocktails (including Guinness Draft Stout, essential for pairing with oysters on the half shell).

Unsurprisingly, Osteria’s lunch and dinner menus are dominated by Italian-American dishes (with a strong contingent of traditional pastas, like Spaghetti Vongole and Cacio e Pepe) and the top-billed seafood, including Seared Scallops, Halibut Agrodolce, and Shrimp Fra Diavolo.

Filet mignon, wagyu and grilled steakhouse chicken provide balance to Osteria’s proteins, and there’s a full range of shareable appetizers “for the table,” as well as soups and salads (from Caesar to Caprese). To cap off any special occasion, nothing beats Tiramisu and Tawny Port.

In 2019, Food & Dining charted Jared Matthews’ early rise to local prominence. We detailed Matthews’ beginnings in the hospitality industry, (center, right) It’s a family affair in the Osteria kitchen. Chef Seth Butkus (right) runs the kitchen and his father Bennet “Chowder” Butkus is a prep cook.

18

Osteria_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/27/23 11:42 AM Page 19

when he was working the sort of entry level bar and restaurant jobs that people discard as soon as they can when a better situation develops, except that for Matthews, these were his opportunity. He was a mogul in the making, destined to be calling the shots.

Everywhere Matthews worked, he seemed to rise into management. “There are many times I would just want to bartend,” he said. “But if you care, the owners see it, and you end up running things eventually.”

Take note, readers; this will be on the test: “If you care.” Matthews does care, and caring has taken him a long way.

Spend any length of time with Matthews and you can see that passion of his caliber cannot be contained, much less faked, so much so that he continues to live for those moments when he can be behind the bar, filling a few glasses of wine, mixing one of Osteria’s signature Italiano Margaritas, and talking to guests about the evening’s sublime Short Rib Stracotto, a big football game or a treasured musical performance.

“When I have to hop behind the bar because we’re busy, and I call my wife afterwards, she'll say ‘you sound like you’re in a good mood,’ and I am, because I actually got to do what I love about the business — and that’s being behind the bar. It’s the reason I got into this business, the reason why I stay in it.”

Matthews epitomizes the fundamental honesty that comes from preparing and serving meals and drinks for public consumption, which is a hallmark of our planet’s dining and drinking establishments, great or small. “Most of the time the gratification is immediate. The guests like it, or not, and you know for sure when they return. The television series Cheers had it right, all along. We look for third spaces, those places where everyone knows your name.”

“I've always thought there are lots of jobs where you just don't get satisfaction. I like to talk to people and help them unwind. A bartender or server is on stage, and whatever is going on in the customers’ lives, like a bad day at the office, whatever it may be, they're sitting down to relax, and enjoy, and forget about their problems for a while.”

Asked what makes him tick, Matthews doesn’t hesitate to answer.

“My faith is definitely a big part of it. I’m a Christian, and I get to wake up every day and serve people. To go around and having a table full of families sitting there hanging out enjoying their food, having a great time, that's the satisfying thing.

It’s what I get to do for my job; sure, it's stressful, but there's not a more satisfying job than being paid to make people happy.” F&D

Ahi tuna wontons

Oysters on the half shell

Tiramisu

19

Cocktail Contessa_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:18 PM Page 20

liquids | cocktail contessa

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Bluesy Not Boozy This light and refreshing drink doesn’t have a bit of alcohol in it, but teases the taste buds in a fun way with a combination of lemon, blueberry, mint, and orange. If you’re feeling adventurous, swap out the mint for rosemary or sage for a delicious tipple.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––—––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

STORY AND PHOTOS BY HEATHER WIBBELS

Cheers to Love and Snowflakes:

Winter Cocktails

A

s the year closes down, and nights get longer, I crave cocktails that warm me from the inside. Whether it’s a hot toddy with apple cider or a spicy, spirit-forward cocktail with a lovely proof heating me from within, this is the time of year I want nothing more than a great cocktail, spirited company, and stories to fill the hours.

This December, I’m focused on seasonal flavors and cocktails that don’t require hours of time in the kitchen to prep syrups or infusions. These cocktails are ones I create for company, or take along with me to parties. For the December Daiquiri, a simple orange peel-infused syrup spices up a simple classic along with a touch of allspice liqueur. If you prefer a warmer drink to celebrate with friends and family, make a delicious apple cider riff on a hot toddy for a decadent and easy drink to share with friends. It can even be batched and kept warm in the crockpot for easy serving!

Toward the end of the year, I watch for that beautiful stillness that arrives with falling snow.

It reminds me of the hush of bubbles filling the glass as I top a French 75 with sparkling wine. This easy seasonal variation dresses up the classic with a fresh cranberry and a sprig of rosemary. It’s a delicate and elegant cocktail to serve, whatever the weather, and perfect for New Year’s Eve. Working in the whiskey world, it’s easy to see why so many people in the industry and the community at large enjoy a break from imbibing in January. To support our low- or no-alcohol friends for the month, I’ve got a delicious non-alcoholic smash you can make with fresh lemon and blueberries to create a refreshing drink.

And finally, for February and Valentine's, a little love for great tequila combined with a bit of chocolate bitters, a nut syrup and tiny chocolate garnish.

It might look like an Old Fashioned, but with one sip your tequila lovers will be in heaven!

Bluesy Not Boozy

20 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

1 oz lemon juice 1 oz orange-peel infused syrup* ¼ lemon, cut into pieces 7-10 blueberries 1 sprig of mint blueberry soda or ginger beer Garnish: fresh blueberries and a sprig of mint Put the blueberries, lemon pieces, juice and syrup in a shaker and muddle well. Add the mint (or rosemary or sage) and muddle just a bit more. Fill with ice, shake and strain into a collins glass with ice. and top with soda. Garnish.

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

December Daiquiri With spiced rum, orange-infused syrup, and a touch of clove from allspice dram you'll dream of warmer climes with each sip of this seasonal daiquiri. For classic daiquiri drinkers, stay with white rum, but more occasional rum drinkers might prefer the addition of spiced rum to the drink.

December Daiquiri

Cocktail Contessa_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:18 PM Page 21

cocktail contessa | liquids

1 oz spiced rum 1 oz white rum ½ oz orange peel-infused syrup* ¾ oz lime juice ½ oz allspice dram Garnish: orange peel with clove

½ sprig of rosemary Dry champagne Garnish: rosemary sprig in a cranberry

proof or temperature. This toddy variation

to a cocktail shaker. Muddle briefly and fill

sings with the addition of an amaro to build a

with ice. Shake for 10 seconds, then strain

complex backbone for the winter warmer.

Shake for 10 to 12 seconds and strain into a

wine and garnish.

chilled coupe glass. Garnish.

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Tequila is My Lady Instead of a dark chocolate flavor bomb of a

That quiet hush when the snow starts outside

cocktail for Valentine's, try this tequila riff on

reminds me of the gentle sound of the sound of

an Old Fashioned with a touch of mole chocolate

champagne bubbles topping a French 75 cock-

bitters and a bit of orgeat (almond syrup).

tail. The beauty of this variation is the easy addition of rosemary in the shaker and as garnish perfect for the season.

1 oz dry gin ½ oz lemon juice ½ oz simple syrup

Gin-tle Evening

When it's freezing outside I reach for bever-

Add all ingredients except the sparkling wine

into a champagne glass. Top with sparkling

Gin-tle Evening

Knicker Warmer ages that warm me inside, whether it's with

Add ingredients to a shaker and fill with ice.

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

2 oz reposado or anejo tequila (or sub out ½ oz for smoky mezcal) ¼ oz orgeat (can sub agave syrup) ¼ oz creme de cacao 3 dashes of Mexican chocolate bitters 1 dash of orange bitters Garnish: dark cocoa rim, chocolate heart Combine ingredients in a mixing glass and fill

1 oz whiskey (can substitute rum) ½ oz Amaro Averna or Montenegro ½ oz lemon juice 3 dashes of orange bitters ¼ oz maple syrup 4-6 oz hot apple cider Garnish: cinnamon stick and apple slice Pour boiling water into a toddy mug to warm it for a few minutes while you heat the cider to scalding. Empty the mug, combine whiskey, amaro, lemon juice, bitters, and maple syrup in the mug. Top with steaming cider. Garnish.

* Orange peel-infused syrup: To two cups of vodka add 1 split jalapeno pepper, seeds removed, 2 stalks of chopped celery, and ½ cup chopped cucumber. Keep in fridge.

Once it is spicy enough, after 1-2 days, remove

with ice. Stir for 30 seconds, then strain into a

the jalapeno pepper. Continue to infuse until you

glass with a touch of dark cocoa on the rim,

love the balance of celery and cucumber (3-5

candied orange and a little chocolate.

Tequila is My Lady

days). Strain and keep in the fridge. F&D

Knicker Warmer

21

Off the EATEN Path_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:28 PM Page 22

food | off the eaten path

Off the

Path

with Kevin Gibson

PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

Starving Artist: A Different Sandwich Universe

F

rom a consumer perspective, it seems the term “sandwich shop” comes with modest expectations. We picture a clean, basic environment where one can procure fairly simple sus-

tenance, a bag of chips, and possibly a cup of soup to-go to accent the simple reason we walked through the door — the sandwich.

And by this point in culinary history, it’s generally accepted that it doesn’t necessarily take a lot of creativity or verve to create, say, a decent club sandwich.

But then… one walks into Starving Artist in Lyndon, and it feels like stepping into another sandwich universe. And that’s by design.

Starving Artist is a place that pops with unexpected colors of teal and purple amidst a tapestry of visuals that harken to the hippie culture of the 1960s. Peace signs, shimmering artwork, and a mural of a red, pink and orange Volkswagen bus, beneath the simple phrase “Peace and Love,” set the mood for a meal that renders the merely decent club sandwich completely irrelevant.

For starters, the menu captures attention from the first word. Sandwiches are named for artists and rock stars. Starving Artist’s take on a club is the Monet. If you’re craving an Italian sub, make it a Leonardo DaVinci, stuffed with ham, pepperoni, salami and mozzarella. To spice things up, have yourself a Rick James, featuring grilled chicken breast, pepper jack cheese and jalapeno peppers. All sandwiches are $9 and come with a bag of chips and a pickle, but you can also upgrade to a cup of soup, macaroni salad or fries.

And that never-ending selection of homemade soups all come from the mind of co-founder Angie Marshall, who makes every sandwich and pot of soup with her own hands. She says she has 145 different soups she makes from memory — none of the recipes are written down.

Starving Artist Cafe & Deli

8034 New La Grange Rd.

502.412.1599 22 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

Off the EATEN Path_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:28 PM Page 23

off the eaten path | food

co-owner Tim Marshall

“They’re all in my head,” she says. “I only have titles. Is that crazy?”

Maybe just a little. But it’s a focused form of crazy. Angie says she gets into the kitchen every day and churns out four or five soups based on what she feels like making and what’s fresh and available. A recent visit yielded cabbage and potato, beef noodle, tomato Florentine, and split pea with dumplings. Chili is a mainstay.

‘The Reason We’re Here’ Angie credits the concept of Starving Artist to her husband and co-founder, Tim. “He’s the reason we’re here,” she says.

“He's the heart and soul of this place.”

While Tim spent time as a sous chef — the couple both worked extensively in the hospitality industry, met three decades ago and married 22 years ago — he actually has another past work experience that influ-

enced the vibe at Starving Artist: he was a touring rock musician during the late 1980s and early 1990s. He fronted Blitz Kidz and other bands, touring not just regionally but nationally. And for Louisvillians who ever went to the Toy Tiger on a Saturday night, well, you might have seen Tim perform.

And while he is now on hiatus from working at the sandwich shop, his ability to captivate a crowd back then led him to launch the long-lived, thriving restaurant.

Starving Artist, which opened 22 years ago (about two months after the couple married), is what happened “when rock ‘n’ roll stopped making money,” Angie says. Tim was always the front man of the restaurant, so to speak, while Angie kept the rhythm in the kitchen.

“He was the personality — everybody in Lyndon loves Tim,” she says.

Angie’s personality is to keep everything perfectly tuned and ready to rock. She arrives every day at 7 a.m. — the restaurant is open Monday through Friday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. — and makes her soups. And most of the other ingredients in her food are made from scratch as well, she says. She makes the corned beef, smokes the pork, cooks the roast beef (always medium rare), and also makes most of the sauces and dressings from the house-made Thousand Island to the spicy ranch. And yes, she makes the rotating desserts, as well.

Ask her how they manage to keep the prices at just nine bucks, and she concedes, “They should be higher, but they’re not. I figured it’s about the people and keeping it where they can afford to eat and come back.”

Interestingly, while the concept has endured and draws a cast of regulars — the restaurant doesn’t advertise, just relies on word of mouth — Angie says that when the couple decided to open a restaurant together, they actually had four concepts and four full menus written. Rather than find a space to fit one specific concept, they instead went looking for a location that seemed to fit one of the concepts.

They found the cozy, 750-square-foot space in a tiny strip mall at 8034 New La Grange Road, and decided the sandwich concept would fit as nicely as a hit melody fits its lyric. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 23

Off the EATEN Path_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:28 PM Page 24

food | off the eaten path Tim and Angie collaborated on the sandwich recipes. Angie had grown up on country cooking, learning from her mother. Tim’s mother, meanwhile, was an artist, and his father owned a bar that focused on music. Put them all together, and you’ve got Starving Artist.

Ingredients There are some cool sandwich combinations on the menu, not to mention a few sandwiches that stand out visually, popping with tantalizing color. During my recent visit, I enjoyed The Prince, built on toasted wheat berry bread and the medium-rare roast beef Angie prepares in her kitchen, topped with pepperoni, provolone, banana peppers, house-made horseradish mayo and shredded lettuce. It not only was delicious and satisfying, with the bright, mild sting of the peppers contrasting the beef, but it was visually appealing as well.

The Eddie Van Halen is another interesting combo, with thick sliced bologna, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, and jalapeno mayo on Texas toast. Meanwhile, the Jimi Hendrix piles hickory-smoked pork on a hoagie bun with pepper jack, lettuce, tomato and chipotle mayo, while the Janis Joplin might be the most interesting concoction on the menu: double pepper jack cheese, cucumber, banana peppers, tomato and mixed greens with Dijon mustard on wheat berry. There’s always a special sandwich of the day, too, so keep an eye out on the whiteboard near the order counter.

And the soups can get just as creative as the sandwiches — as if the split pea with dumplings soup didn’t give that away. Angie has long been an organic gardener, so she knows her vegetables, and she grows many of the ingredients that go onto the sandwiches and into the soups.

“I just started making up soups,” Angie says. “I always have weird soups here.”

And the fact she doesn’t have any of the twelve dozen recipes written down can partly be attributed to her confidence in what she makes — as in, she doesn’t take things too far. She knows a flavor profile, sticks with it, and makes sure it’s simple to recreate.

Once again, she’s back there doing pretty much all of it herself — Starving Artist has just one employee.

“It’s a good thing I’m never sick,” she quips.

As for the restaurant’s longevity, she attributes it to giving the people what they want. They rolled out a revamped menu about a year and a half ago, making it the eighth menu facelift in Starving Artist’s tenure, but the formula remains the same. It’s about the quality and for the customers.

“I’m here for the people that eat here,” she says, and that goes for Tim as well. “You’ve got to move with the flow in restaurants to keep up. Usually, you don’t stick around this long. But I’m also a type A personality, so I think that helps run the place.” F&D (from top) The Prince - Roast beef, pepperoni, provolone, banana peppers, lettuce, and horseradish mayo on toasted wheat berry; the Eddie Van Halen - Thick sliced bologna, cheddar, lettuce with horseradish mayo on Texas toast; the Janis Joplin - Double pepper jack cheese, cucumber, banana peppers, tomato, mixed greens with Dijon on wheat berry; the Jimi Hendrix - Hickory-smoked pork tendered, pepperjack, lettuce, tomato, chipotle mayo on a whole wheat hoagie. (opposite, clockwise from top left) Six of the 145 rotating soups - chili; corn and smoked chipotle pepper chowder; chicken tortilla; cabbage and tomato; Thai mushroom noodle; tomato basil.

24

Off the EATEN Path_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 8:28 PM Page 25

off the eaten path | food

25

Lelia's Kitchen_WIN23_Ed.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 11/25/23 8:50 PM Page 26

food | letters from lelia’s kitchen

BY LELIA GENTLE | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

Clam Chowder

D

on’t you just love those moments when tastes or smells take you back to times and places gone by? The delicious scent of baking bread wafting from the open doors of a nearby bakery can act

like a time portal, instantly sweeping you from a busy street to your grandmother’s kitchen years ago. Those tantalizing smells can refresh forgotten memories in all of us.

For me, clam chowder is that portal. One bowl of hot steaming clam chowder, and I am immediately transported to the wharf in San Francisco eating the creamy chowder from a chewy sourdough bowl or to the harbors of Boston watching shuckers place the freshly shucked clams into the simmering chowder. In my mind, I can almost smell the brininess and taste the sweetness of the clams.

Fresh minced clams with potatoes and onion, simmered in a broth of clam juice and cream—just heaven!

In my own kitchen, I sometimes try to replicate favorite or unique foods from my travels. The foods I recreate are usually comparable to those from my trips, but some26 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

thing still seems lacking — perhaps the salt air and the ocean breezes, the details that etch those tastes and experiences in our minds.

But given those limitations, let’s get as close as we can. A distinctive hallmark of a stellar chowder is the proper doneness of the potatoes. I always choose a waxy potato, not a starchy one, in order to keep a firm structure of the potato. Overcooking the potato is a cardinal sin when it comes to chowder, it should retain a crisptender quality, and never be mushy. A one-half inch dice is always the perfect size. The other must-have in a great chowder is a rich, smokey salt pork or bacon.

3 Ways…

Chowder is traditionally made with salt pork, but will be excellent with a thick-cut smokey bacon, like the kind you find at our local farmers markets.

Sourcing clams could be a challenge in land-locked cities like Louisville, but look no further than our specialty seafood shops or grocery stores that specialize in seafood. Of course, fresh shucked clams are standard for the finest chowder. If you can find fresh clams in the shell, be sure to soak them in cold water for an hour or so to help purge any sand that might be present in the shell. Then use a soft brush to scrub the shell before shucking to make sure there is no grit which would fall into your chowder. And when you shuck the clams, be careful to catch all the juice, as you will need every single drop. If you don’t get enough juice from the clams, use bottled clam juice to make up the difference. If you are not using fresh clams, bottled clam juice can be easily sourced from most any grocery. If fresh clams are not available, frozen

Lelia's Kitchen_WIN23_Ed.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 11/25/23 8:50 PM Page 27

letters from lelia’s kitchen | food

minced clams will suffice quite well.

Again, check with your local seafood shops. Canned clams may certainly be used, but fresh or frozen are preferable.

Here are three of the most celebrated chowder recipes from our coastal neighbors to the east. The most popular by far is the rich and creamy New England Clam Chowder. Running a close second is the tomato-based Manhattan Clam Chowder. Probably the least known of the three, but definitely one of my favorites, is the Rhode Island Clam Chowder which is a more brothy, flavorful soup.

Whichever chowder you choose,

add a fresh crisp salad with a crusty artisan bread. Salt water and ocean breezes aside, these chowder recipes will not disappoint.

———–––––———————————

Fresh, frozen or canned clams are interchangeable in each of these recipes.

If using fresh clams: Rinse clams under cold running water and then soak in a dish of cold water for about an hour. After soaking, rinse clams again, and scrub with a soft brush to make sure all grit has been removed. Place cleaned clams in a large pot and add 3½ cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cover and cook until the clams open, about 8 minutes

or so. Remove the clams with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl. Strain the broth through a fine mesh sieve before using. Remove the clams from their shells and roughly chop. Set aside until ready to add to the chowder.

If using minced clams: Frozen clams must be thawed. Strain clams and pour clam juice into a separate container. Set minced clams and clam juice aside until ready to add to chowder. Supplement with bottled clam juice as needed. Do the same for canned clams.

(Editor’s note: Special thanks to Cooking at the Cottage for the use of their kitchen for the photo shoot.)

27

Lelia's Kitchen_WIN23_Ed.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 11/25/23 8:50 PM Page 28

food | letters from lelia’s kitchen

––––––––––––––––––––––––––—————-––––

New England Clam Chowder (Serves 4)

4 ounces bacon or salt pork, cut up into a ½-inch dice 1 large onion, finely chopped ¼ cup all-purpose flour 3 cups clam juice 6 medium red-skinned potatoes, washed and diced to ½-inch (no need to peel these) 1 cup minced clams (thaw if frozen) 3 cups cream Pinch of dried thyme, or about 1 teaspoon fresh thyme Salt & freshly ground pepper to taste

28 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

In a heavy soup pot, fry the salt pork or bacon pieces, stirring occasionally, until they begin to curl and most of the fat is rendered, about 5-8 minutes. Remove the meat with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Leave enough of the rendered fat in the pan to sauté the onions (about 2 tablespoons).

Add the chopped onion to the bacon fat and cook slowly for about 10 minutes, or until onions are soft and translucent. Sprinkle flour over onions, stirring constantly, and cook 1-2 minutes.

Add the clam juice, stirring well, and bring to a boil. Add potatoes, salt and pepper to the pan. When potatoes come to a boil, turn heat down to a simmer and let cook about 10 minutes, or until potatoes begin to get tender. A slight crunch on the potato is considered to be the ideal for chowder. Add minced clams and continue simmering about 10 minutes longer.

You may return the cooked salt pork or bacon to the chowder, or use it as a garnish.

Heat the cream and add to soup mixture.

Add salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with fresh or dried thyme.

––––––––––––––––––––––––––—————-––––

Manhattan Clam Chowder (Serves 4)

1½ tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1½ celery stalks sliced thin Pinch crushed red pepper flakes 7 cloves fresh garlic, minced ¼ cup tomato paste 3 sprigs parsley 3 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 5 cups clam juice ¾ lb. Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into a ½ inch dice One 28-ounce can whole, peeled tomatoes with liquid, roughly chopped

Lelia's Kitchen_WIN23_Ed.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 11/25/23 8:51 PM Page 29

letters from lelia’s kitchen | food 1½ cups minced clams 1 tablespoon kosher salt Coarsely ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped parsley for garnish Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, celery and crushed red pepper and cook, covered, stirring occasionally until vegetables are soft, about 6-8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook one minute more.

Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring for about 1 minute more.

Make a bouquet garni by tying the parsley sprigs, fresh thyme, and the bay leaf together with a piece of kitchen twine and add to the pot with the potatoes.

Pour in the clam juice and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the potatoes are crisp-tender, about 10-12 minutes.

Stir in the tomatoes and clams, cover and bring to a low simmer, and cook for about 10 minutes. Remove the bouquet garni, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide among warm soup bowls and sprinkle with fresh parsley. Serve immediately.

––––––––––––––––––––––––––—————-––––

Rhode Island Clam Chowder (Serves 4) This chowder is really good for those who don’t consume dairy.

24 fresh clams (about 8 pounds), scrubbed 3½ cups clam juice 4 ounces salt pork or thick smoked bacon, cut into ½ inch pieces 1 small onion, diced small 1 leek, sliced 2 stalks celery, thinly sliced 1½ lbs. red skinned potatoes, washed and cut into a ½” dice 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Freshly ground pepper 1 tablespoon fresh thyme Chopped fresh parsley for garnish Rinse clams under cold running water and then soak in a dish of cold water for about an hour. After soaking, rinse clams again, and scrub with a soft brush to make sure all grit

has been removed. Place cleaned clams in a large pot and add 3 ½ cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cover and cook until the clams open, about 8 minutes or so. Remove the clams with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl. Strain the broth through a fine mesh sieve into a large bowl and reserve until needed. If you don’t have enough juice, supplement with bottled clam juice to make the 3½ cups. Remove clams from their shells and roughly chop. Set aside until ready to add to the chowder.

Place salt pork or bacon in a large soup pot. Cook over medium heat for 8-10 minutes, or until fat is rendered. Remove meat with a slotted spoon and allow to drain on a paper towel. Keep about 2 tablespoons rendered fat in the pot. Add the onion, leek, and celery to the skillet and cook over medium heat until the onion is translucent, about 6 minutes.

Add clam juice and potatoes to the vegetable mixture. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the potatoes are tender, 10-12 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce, ½ teaspoon pepper, and 1 tablespoon fresh thyme.

Add the chopped or minced clams to the soup and cook over medium heat until heated through. Taste for salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with chopped parsley. F&D

wwwfoodanddine.com Winter 2023 29

Haraz_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:24 PM Page 30

Let it be stipulated: The Bardstown Road corridor is Louisville’s Original Restaurant Row. And yet diners have witnessed notable changes in recent years, including the loss of many restaurants that once were defining features of the Row’s culinary identity — names to conjure with, like Lilly’s, Palermo Viejo, Cafe Metro, De La Torres, Asiatique, Papalinos, and more. Meanwhile the ever-evolving strip, which has sported an esoteric bohemian vibe since at least the 60s, has seen a proliferation of chains (many with drive-throughs) that pop up amongst the eclectic independents — places like Jack Fry’s, Seviche, Uptown Cafe, Joy Luck, Kashmir, Dragon King’s Daughter, Ditto’s and many more — that savvy local and visiting diners still seek out.

Thanks to its density and scale, even postpandemic Bardstown Road remains a formidable dining zone, with a massive variety of dining options for pretty much any taste or budget.

In that context, then, we’re excited about several recent developments along the row.

Within eyesight of Haraz, two neighboring

Kiwani Ramen is in the process of opening in the former Wild Ginger space, and Down Top 1 Korean BBQ & Hotpot is taking over the spot formerly occupied by The Bard’s Town. Also (and this seems particularly newsworthy), The Bakery at Sullivan has reopened.

And last but not least, we’re excited about developments in the Baxter Avenue part of

restaurants are poised to open sometime in December or January: WNB Factory (in the former La Que) and Beyond the Sun (in the old Mellow Mushroom).

A mile further South on Bardstown Road, there’s a cluster of restaurants that have either opened or will by the end of the year. The Post now has a slice-only location next to Pivot Brewing, El Mundo, and Darling Cocktail Bar.

the corridor where some major things are happening (including the quite recent opening of Paseo at the new Myriad Hotel, which we’ll get to in a future issue).

Recently we took note of two new establishments with Middle Eastern roots — but vastly different repertoires — that have opened about 50 yards from one another near the intersection of Baxter and Highland

30 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

avenues — an area that’s anchored by the Irish triumvirate of Flanagan’s, Molly Malone’s, and O’Shea’s.

Drawing on coffee’s origins some 1,500 years ago, Haraz Coffee House is serving Yemeni-style coffee in the old Chase Bank.

With stove-top preparations, ornate presentations, and unique flavorings, it’s safe to say Louisville has never seen the likes of Haraz. Our story on Haraz is Food & Dining’s first-ever profile of a coffee shop.

Across the street at Kebab House, the fare is a familiar but well-executed mix of meat and vegetarian dishes that compares favorably with other Middle Eastern restaurants we’ve tried in the Louisville area. We’ve especially enjoyed the personal touches observed on multiple visits.

While the opening of two new establishments doesn’t necessarily represent a trend, we’re encouraged to see a couple of independent businesses join the scene and develop a strong following in their first year.

Attention must be paid.

For more on Haraz and Kebab House, read on — and bon appétit!

Haraz_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:25 PM Page 31

haraz coffee house | profile

Amer “A.J.” Almassudi

BY CARY STEMLE | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

t the corner of Highland and Baxter avenues in Louisville’s Highlands neighborhood, directly across from the city’s firstever Starbucks and around the corner from Quills Coffee, a new coffee shop is tapping into coffee’s origin story.

Haraz Coffee House — named for the mountainous region on Yemen’s lower west coast where coffee beans grow some 3,000 meters above sea level — opened in January 2023 in a former Chase Bank location that’s notable for its stone façade.

It’s the second Haraz in Louisville, following the November 2022 opening of an express location downtown. Both shops are co-owned by Amer “A.J.” Almassudi and Dr. Mohamad Elgahmi, with Almassudi in charge of daily operations.

He’s following the lead of childhood friend Hamzah Nasser, who opened the first Haraz Coffee House in Dearborn, Mich., where both men grew up. The company now has 12 locations overall, in California, Illinois, Michigan, and Texas.

Haraz specializes in traditional Yemeni coffees — medium- or dark-roasted Arabica beans prepared Turkish-style in a long-handled stainless-steel pot and heated on stovetops. Those drinks often include cardamom and cream made from evaporated milk, which AJ explains holds up under heating better than regular or plant-based milk, which are also available. Nearly all the coffee drinks are made to order, Almassudi said, but only take a couple minutes.

The drink menu is divided into three sections: House Specialties, which include traditional Yemeni recipes; Coffee & More (espresso, lattes, etc.); and Iced Refreshers, in flavors such as

A

31

Haraz_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:25 PM Page 32

profile | haraz coffee house

dragon fruit and strawberry or raspberry lemonade, along with a pineapple-mango smoothie.

Food offerings include a staggering array of photogenic goodies — pastries, scones, milk cakes, cheesecakes, sweet and savory croissants, breakfast burritos and more.

Change of career, and a moment of inspiration Almassudi, 40, was born and raised in Dearborn, a suburb of Detroit. A recent Time magazine profile describes Dearborn as the Arab capital of North America for its high concentration of Lebanese, Syrian, Jordanian, Iraqi, and Yemeni communities.

Almassudi studied pre-pharmacy at Wayne State University and planned to go to pharmacy school, but he “fell in love with making money” and changed direction. He operated a body shop with his cousin for several years before moving into the cellular phone business.

He came to Louisville about 10 years ago to work for Metro PCS, helping the company expand from five locations to more than 40. But the pandemic, coupled with Louisville racial justice protests in the wake of the killing of Breanna Taylor, when he said

A big part of the Haraz experience is in the presentation. Where most coffee shops might hand you a plain black or white mug filled from a non-descript canister, Haraz makes drinks to order and serves them in picturesque vessels with petite, often ornate serving cups. (top) The copper kettle is used for Turkishstyle coffee, which is made with dark Yemen beans ground to a very fine powder, then boiled in a traditional kettle called a CV and served with a pinch of cardamom. (center) A traditional, but ornate, French press. (bottom) This clear glass serving set is used for Adeni chai, known to Indians and Pakistanis as Karak tea. (opposite, top left) The gold serving set is reserved for lightroast Saudi coffee.

32

Haraz_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:25 PM Page 33

haraz coffee house | profile

several Metro PCS stores were damaged, proved too stressful.

“We shut down about 40 percent of our locations due to these things,” he said. “I had to figure out something different that would be more relaxing for me.”

He considered moving back to Michigan.

That didn’t feel right.

“I thought, I have to do something for the time I’ve been here and leave a mark,” he said. “Coffee’s one of the greatest ways to associate yourself with other people. I enjoy the time of speaking and talking to people, just congregating and meeting new people.

In the culture where I grew up, when we invite other people over for a cup of tea or a cup of coffee, it’s a way to spend some quality time with others, with a drink you can both enjoy.”

He decided to try a couple of coffee shops here, beginning with the grab-and-go site located in the old Ohio Theater. Featuring a new dog park behind the shop, it’s open seven days a week.

The idea for the Highlands location arrived as a moment of inspiration. During Derby Week in 2022, Almassudi was dropping off a friend near Baxter and Highland. When he saw workers inside the old Chase site, he stopped to ask if the space was available.

After an anxious period of waiting, he reached a deal.

“Right place, right time,” Almassudi said. “It was magical. I fell in love with the place. I was so anxious — I called week in and week out.

‘Are we gonna do it together? Is the pricing within our budget?’

“It was really hard — we had just opened the downtown location, but I could not pass this up, so I dug in and put all my savings into this. … I maxed out a few credit cards.“

A traditional pour over

Haraz offers over two dozen baked goods daily

Cinnamon rolls

The birthplace of coffee The precise origins of coffee aren’t exactly clear. Some accounts hold that coffee beans were discovered in Ethiopia before they were introduced to Yemen. Other stories place the origins in Yemen in the sixth century.

Haraz Coffee House tells the story through artwork adorning its walls. A large mural, hand-painted by Michigan artist Anthony Lee, shows the Haraz Mountains, where small family farms grow pesticide-free 33

Haraz_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:25 PM Page 34

profile | haraz coffee house

An ornate map of Yemen

beans on terraces cut into the landscape, then dry them in the sun.

A woodcut map of the Middle Eastern nation is headed, “Yemen: Origin of Coffee.” Another panel, titled “Yemen: The World’s First Coffee,” reads: “Yemen is the birthplace of coffee where the term Arabica originated. … It was in Yemen that the coffee plant was cultivated and developed into the beans and beverage we know today.”

Yet another artwork tells the story of Sufi mystics who discovered the “strange berries from a shrubbery that lost their bitterness when roasted and boiled.” Those mystics, according to a BBC News story, used coffee as an aid to concentration and even spiritual intoxication when they chanted the name of God. The BBC story adds: “Although a beverage made from the wild coffee plant seems to have been first drunk by a legendary shepherd on the Ethiopian plateau, the earliest cultivation of coffee was in Yemen, and Yemenis gave it the Arabic name qahwa, from which our words coffee and cafe both derive. Qahwa originally meant wine.”

A beautiful space to gather

Pistachio milk cake

Chocolate croissants

34

Like many Louisvillians, Almassudi had long noticed the old Chase Bank with its beautiful stone façade. According to Louisville architectural historian Steve Wiser, the building was designed by architect W.T. Hutchings and opened in 1929 as the Louisville National Bank.

The partners spent more than $500,000 on the build-out, and it shows; Haraz is a feast for the eyes, with contemporary glassand-steel design touches paired with Middle Eastern motifs.

Guests enter the 1,800-square-foot shop through one of two doors separated by an enclosed outdoor seating area. Inside, they’re greeted by a shiny glass case atop a long white marble counter with subtle gray streaks. The case is filled with baked goods made by Almassudi’s wife, Samira Aljahmi, and pastry chef Diego Lopez, who contracts with the shop.

Four four-top tables sit along the wall between the entrances, with a high-top table for three in the corner next to two one-tops that look out on Baxter Avenue.

Beyond the cash register, the room opens

Haraz_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:25 PM Page 35

to hold an eight-top, a four-top and a large wooden table that accommodates 10 guests. The far wall includes booth seating with five small tables and high-backed chairs. In this area, the shop also hosts occasional cultural events like an Arabic singer playing the oud. Almassudi hopes to increase such offerings and rent out the space for other groups to host events.

One day I watched as he stirred ground coffee in a copper pan on one of the shop’s eight burners. As the water began to cascade, it turned yellowish-gold — what he called the “golden boil.” The brew was then poured into a copper serving pot, called an ibrik, on a tray next to small white porcelain cups, which fit neatly into ornate copper cup-holders. The overall presentation is elegant.

Later, I took home a bag of Qishr — coffee husks with ginger and cinnamon.

Because Yemeni beans are organic, the husks — which are normally discarded — are not only usable but make a rich, delicious, decaffeinated brew that’s sweet and spicy.

First-timers may struggle to decipher the menu — chances are they’ve never heard of Adeni chai nor had a latte with pistachio or saffron. Almassudi said the staff loves to educate customers, who are encouraged to try new things and request something else if the order isn’t to their liking. Off-menu drinks are another option — just ask.

Haraz sources its beans from Yemen; they’re delivered to Dearborn, and Almassudi often drives up to collect his supply. He feels a kinship with the nation where his parents were born, and while he’s yet to work out a long-hoped-for first visit, he regularly collects clothing and other items to send over.

The sheer distance between Yemen and Dearborn (some 11,600 kilometers) plus Yemen’s long-running political turmoil make importing the beans a difficult and pricy proposition. But there’s no substituting.

“Our beans, you won’t get that flavor anywhere else,” Almassudi said. “Brought to you from (thousands of) miles away — it’s crazy how you can feel like you’re in the Middle East, but you’re here in America. If you’re a coffee enthusiast, you’ll know the difference.” F&D

(from left) Mango and dragon fruit refresher, pineapple and mango smoothie, and strawberry lemonade

Gluten-free chocolate chips scone

35

Kebab House_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:54 PM Page 36

profile | kebab house

BY CARY STEMLE | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

ven before I switched to a plant-based diet more than a decade ago, I loved Middle Eastern restaurants. I particularly liked beef or chicken shawarma — I’m a sucker for food wrapped in something like a flatbread, as shawarma tends to be.

Maybe it’s because I often eat on the move, but street food just works for me.

The diet change only ramped up my obsession, except I now gravitate to legumes and vegetables — also staples of the Middle Eastern diet. Fortunately, there are quite a few places around Louisville to get a fix.

Downtown? Saunter in to Safier’s Deli on Fourth Street. St. Matthews? Make it to Mirage Mediterranean Express in Dupont Square. Out Springhurst way? Take a jaunt to JJ Grill, located by Walmart in an old Moby Dick fish house! Across the river in New Albany, assuage your appetite at Aladdin’s Mediterranean & Middle Eastern Cuisine.

E

36 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

With all of this in mind, then, it was nice to learn a new Middle Eastern restaurant, called Kebab House, had opened at 969 Baxter Avenue next to Wick’s Pizza and across the street from W.H.I.G.S. barber shop, Triumph tattoo shop, El Nopal Mexican restaurant, and O’Shea’s Irish Pub. Kebab House is small, with nine tables and seating for about 35. Food photos adorn the walls, and recorded Arabic music emanates from an unseen source. The fare is a familiar but well-executed mix of meat dishes (kebabs, gyros and shawarma made with beef, chicken, and lamb) along with vegetable and legume offerings like falafel, hummus, grape leaves, Greek salads, baba ghanouj, and baklava. Don’t be surprised if they bring you a complimentary serving of creamy yellow lentil soup when you arrive, and a cup of sage tea after your meal.

Let’s dive in!

Kebab House_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:54 PM Page 37

kebab house | profile

A family affair Hakeem Qadah bought Kebab House in late summer after its original owners decided to sell shortly after opening.

Qadah, 37, emigrated to the United States in 2005, settling in Lexington, Ky. He worked in restaurants on the service side and has long wanted to become an owner.

By day, he’s a nurse-practitioner in the ER at Baptist Health Louisville. A father of three (with number four on the way), he recently relocated to Louisville and spends as much time at the restaurant as he can fit into his already-busy life.

Qadah brought in his cousin, Mustafa Mohammad, as head chef. Mohammad’s connection to food goes back nearly three decades when he was a rambunctious 10year-old in his native Jordan, where a kind restaurateur patiently showed him the ropes. “I wasn’t an easy kid. I wasn’t a nice kid,” he admits. Mohammad later went to culinary school in Jordan and continued working as a chef after emigrating to the United States in 2011, also landing in Lexington.

One Saturday afternoon in October, as we sat at a table near the restaurant’s front window discussing food and life, Mohammad’s passion and wry sense of humor shone through as he leaned in to talk about his native cuisine and how newcomers react when they stop in for the first time. He’ll start by asking what you like — red meat, white meat, lamb? — and he’s 99 percent certain you’ll find something that tastes good.

“If you eat McDonald’s all your life and you come here, your brain will be shocked,” he says. “I’ve seen people, they are in pain because they can’t taste anything fresh. Their sense of taste has died. I say gain your control back from your brain. If you eat junk food, your brain will shrink.”

Kebab House signage touts Mediterranean food, but Mohammad said that’s a bit of a misnomer, as Mediterranean food technically includes any country that touches the eponymous sea, including Italy and Spain.

Kebab House, he said, serves traditional middle eastern food.

“If you go to (the) Middle East, this is exactly how you’re gonna eat,” he said. “We don’t sell the Americanized version … I cook

Chicken Kebab — chicken kebab skewers with rice, hummus, grilled vegetables and Greek salad.

37

Kebab House_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:54 PM Page 38

for every single customer like I cook for my family. I wouldn’t give you anything I wouldn’t give my family. You can taste the love in the food.”

Hallmarks of the cuisine include grilled meat and chickpeas. I ask Mohammad whether he says chickpeas or garbanzo beans, and he notes the correct term is “garbanzo chickpeas.” Some Middle Eastern food preparation is labor-intensive, he noted, describing the process of cooking eggplant for baba ghanouj. It’s grilled to impart the requisite smoky flavor, then peeled and chopped by hand — no food processors.

Olive oil is another staple, along with spices like cumin, cardamom, and turmeric.

Mohammad regrets that many Americans are put off by lamb. It’s a hard dish to cook properly, he admits, and he works hard to show diners how scrumptious the meat can be when it’s done right.

When I think of Middle Eastern food, I often use hummus to gauge a restaurant’s overall approach. Kebab House’s is just right.

Mohammad said the chickpeas are soaked overnight, washed four or five times, then cooked for 60 to 90 minutes. “If you wanna know when it’s ready, you have to get one chickpea out of the pot and throw it against the wall,” he said. “If it’s stuck on the wall, it’s ready. If it falls down, not ready. That’s proven 100 percent. It’s been tried for ages.

Any chef who couldn’t tell about that, then he’s not a chef. He don’t know nothing about Middle Eastern food.”

Colorful plates, generous portions After interviewing the chef and scarfing a plate of falafel, hummus, and grape leaves, I chatted with diners Hanh Trieu, making her first visit, and Nga Nguyen, who’s become a regular. Nguyen has eaten at several of Louisville’s Middle Eastern restaurants, and she’s a particular fan of Kebab House’s flavors and portion sizes. She noted its pita bread — fat slices served toasty warm — is a differentiator. She also mentioned the (top) Vegetable Plate —baba ganouge, stuffed grape leaves, falafel, hummus and Greek salad. (center) Hummus and pitta bread. (left) Kefta Kebab — seasoned ground lamb skewers served with rice, hummus, grilled vegetables and Greek salad.

38

Kebab House_Win23_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 11/25/23 9:54 PM Page 39

kebab house | profile

Arabic salad — a concoction of tomato, cucumber, parsley, olive oil, and lemon juice that augments meat dishes. (I should also note that it’s excellent on a slice of pita bread.)

On this day, Nguyen ordered a lamb kebab meal ($16.99), which includes two skewers of lamb with rice, hummus, grilled vegetables, and Greek salad. “I thought the meal overall was good,” she reported later via email. “It was well cooked, and worth the price.”

Trieu opted for a lamb shank meal ($16.99), which includes green peas, carrots and tomato sauce with rice and Greek salad.

She said it was tasty but not herb-encrusted as she’d hoped. Still, she appreciated the portion size, and loved the complimentary lentil soup and sage tea, adding that the tea is some of the best she’s had in Louisville.

Those touches exemplify Kebab House’s approach to hospitality. The chef is also known to go out and talk with guests at their tables.

“If you’re here, you’re a guest in my house,” Mohammad said. “No matter your background. I don’t see you as a dollar sign, I see you as a guest. Food is not just for your stomach. Food is for your soul — what you put inside is what’s gonna come out.”

Mohammad, 38, is married with three children and still resides in Lexington. He loves living in the Bluegrass State.

“Kentucky is beautiful. Good people.

Kentucky is a family state … If you start a family, you want to place you feel safe, they care about your family. Other states, they’re not gonna care about your family, just about collecting taxes.”

Owner Qadah said he’d like to open another restaurant and mentions a falafel house with buffet. Current hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday.

With the restaurant’s location in a prime Louisville nightlife zone, Qadah is also considering staying open until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

Asked what he likes about owning a restaurant, he says: “Seeing people happy.

People love our colorful plates and the portions that we give.” F&D (top) Chicken Shawerma — marinated sliced chicken served over rice with hummus and Greek salad. (center) Grape leaves stuffed with ice, mint, garlic and lemon. (left) Beef and lamb gyro.

39

dining guide

Guide Index_WIN 23_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 11/25/23 10:10 PM Page 40

Cuisine Style

African..............................66 Asian/Chinese..................66 Asian/Filipino. ..................68 Asian/Japanese. ..............68 Asian/Korean ...................69 Asian/Thai........................69 Asian/Vietnamese............69 Bar & Grill/Taphouse........62

Barbecue .........................58 Bistro/New American .......47 Breakfast .........................54 Burgers/Chicken ..............51 Cafés ...............................52 Cafeterias/Buffet ..............62 Cajun/Creole....................69 Casual Dining ..................54 Coffee/Tea Houses ..........77 Cuban/Caribbean.............68 Deli/Sandwich ..................60

Alphabetical Index Restaurants Listed Alphabetically — Followed by PAGE NUMBER, CUISINE STYLE, MAP NUMBER(s) [ ] denotes unmapped multiple locations.

RESTAURANT 211 Clover Lane 3rd Turn Brewing 610 Magnolia 7 Brew Coffee 80/20 @ Kaelin's 888 Great Wall 8th Street Pizza 8UP Drinkery A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China A Toda Madre Abol Café About Time Bar and Grill Abyssinia Ada's Kitchen and Catering Addis Ababa Ethiopian Restaurant Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne's Italian Afrokanza Lounge Against The Grain Agave & Rye Epic Tacos Aji Sushi and Asian Cuisine Akasha Brewing Company Al Sultan Mediterranean Grill Aladdin's Mediterranean All Thai’d Up Alley Cat Café Amy Z's Angie’s Cafe Annie Café Annie May's Sweets Café Annie's Pizza Anoosh Bistro Apna Café Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee's Arata Sushi Arni's Pizza Arno's Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Wok Asiana Sushi Aspen Creek Restaurant Atrium Brewing Atrium Café August Moon Awry Brewing B.J.'s Restaurant & Brewhouse Baby Mae's Back Deck BBQ Back of the House Collective Yard Backside at Whiskey Row Baer’s City Winery Bae's Baekery Bahn Thai Bakersfield Bandido Taqueria Mexicana Banditz Pizza Bar at Hotel Genevieve bar Vetti Barcelona Bistro Bar Barista Parlor Barn8 Barrel 33 Tavern & Grill Barry's Cheesesteaks Baxter's 942 Bean Bearno's Beef O'Brady's Bella Roma Bellissimo Italian Restaurant Bento Asian Kitchen + Sushi Better Blend Beyond the Sun Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Bad Breakfast Big Ben's BBQ Big Nita's Cheesecakes Biscuit Belly Bistro Le Relais Black Olive Italian / El Nopal Black Rabitt Blackbeard Espresso Blackstone Grille Blak Koffee Blaze Fast Fire'd Pizza Blind Squirrel Blondie’s & Jim’s Bistro Blue Bay Seafood & Sushi Blue Dog Bakery Blue Horse Café

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

44 Fine Dining 3 64 Microbreweries 6 44 Fine Dining 13 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 5, 16 51 Burgers / Chicken 2 66 Asian / Chinese 8 56 Pizza 14 45 Upscale Casual 1 54 Casual Dining 14, 16 66 Asian / Chinese 1 72 Mexican 14 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 3 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 66 African 1 61 Southern / Soul Food 1 66 African 11 75 Desserts / Bakery 16 70 European / Italian 16 66 African 2 64 Microbreweries 1 54 Casual Dining 2, 14 68 Asian / Japanese 11 64 Microbreweries 1 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 11 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 14 69 Asian / Thai 7 52 Cafes 5 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 52 Cafes 16 69 Asian / Vietnamese 13 75 Desserts / Bakery 3 56 Pizza 9,12 47 Bistro / New American 7 71 Indian 8 64 Microbreweries 2 54 Casual Dining 11,12,13,15 68 Asian / Japanese 10 56 Pizza 14 56 Pizza 4 52 Cafes 14 68 Asian / Japanese 3 66 Asian / Chinese 14 66 Asian / Chinese 2 68 Asian / Japanese 11 54 Casual Dining 11 64 Microbreweries 1, 8 52 Cafes 5 66 Asian / Chinese 2 64 Microbreweries 2 65 Microbreweries 5 58 Barbecue 14 58 Barbecue 13 55 Casual Dining 13 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 55 Casual Dining 14 75 Desserts / Bakery 2 69 Asian / Thai 11 72 Mexican 2 72 Mexican 1, 3, 8 56 Pizza 1 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 70 European / Italian 1 71 European / Spanish 6 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 44 Fine Dining 10 58 Barbecue 5 60 Deli / Sandwich 12 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 56 Pizza [14] 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5,3,14 70 European / Italian 14 70 European / Italian 4 68 Asian / Japanese 5 53 Cafes 3 55 Casual Dining 2 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 54 Breakfast 2,8 58 Barbecue 16 75 Desserts / Bakery 1 54 Breakfast 1,3,5 70 European / French 4 70 European / Italian 13 45 Upscale Casual 3 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 45 Upscale Casual 10 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 9 56 Pizza 3,5,8,15 55 Casual Dining 5 61 Southern / Soul Food 8 68 Asian / Japanese 13 53 Cafes 2 53 Cafes 13

40 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

Desserts/Bakery ..............75 Diner/Home Style.............61 Entertainment Dining .......65 European/French .............70 European/Irish .................70 European/Italian...............70 European/Spanish ...........71 Fine Dining.......................44 Gastropub ........................51 Indian ...............................71 Latin American .................72 RESTAURANT

Bluegrass Brewing Company Board and You Bistro & Wine Bar Bob's Steak & Chop House Bombay Grill Bonefish Grill Bonnie & Clyde's Pizza Book & Bourbon Southern Kitchen Boombozz Pizza · Watch Bar Boomer's Café Boomtown Boomtown Creamery Bootleg Barbecue Co. Born2Bagel Borromeo's Pizza & Italian Borsalino Café & Deli Boudreaux's Cajun Cooking Boudreaux's Sno-Balls Bourbon's Bistro Brasserie Provence Bravo!

Brazeiros Churrascaria Breakfast AF Brendon's Catch 23 Brew & Sip Coffee Bar Brian's Deli Brick House Tavern + Tap Bristol Bar & Grille Brix Wine Bar Brooklyn & The Butcher Brownie's 'The Shed' Bruegger's Bagels B-Side Bubbakoo's Burritos Bubba's 33 Buca Di Beppo Buck's Bud's Tavern & Barbecue Buffalo Wild Wings Bungalow Joe's Bar & Grill Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burger Girl Butcher's Best Butchertown Brewing Butchertown Grocery Bakery Buzzards Roost Whiskey Row Cadillacs Chicken and Fish Café 360 Café Aroma Cafe Commons Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico California Pizza kitchen Cancún Captain's Quarters Riverside Grille Carali's Rotisserie Chicken Caribbean Café Carrabba's Italian Grill CASK Southern Kitchen & Bar Caspian Grill Persian Café Cast Iron Steakhouse Cattleman's Roadhouse Chamling Kitchen & Bar Champions Grille Charcoal Charlestown Pizza Co. Charr'd Bourbon Kitchen Check's Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar's Scratch Kitchen Cheer King Star Chef Shaq's Kitchen Chef's Cut Pizzeria Cherry Pickin' Chicago Steak & Lemonade Chicago’s Jerk Tacos Chicken King Chicken Salad Chick Chik'n & Mi Chili's China 1 China Bistro China Buffet China Café China Castle China Chef China Coast China Dragon China Garden China King China Star China Taste Chipotle Mexican Grill Chong Garden Chopsticks House Christi's Café Chung King Palace Chuy's Ciao City Barbeque Classico Takeout and Empanadas Clay Oven Clean Eatz Clifton Donuts Clucker's Wings Coals Artisan Pizza Coffee Crossing

Mediterranean/Mid East...71 Mexican ...........................72 Microbreweries ................64 Pizza ................................56 Seafood ...........................49 Seafood Boil ....................50 Southern/Soul Food.........61 Southwest/Tex Mex..........75 Steakhouse......................50 Upscale Casual................45

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

65 Microbreweries 1 47 Bistro / New American 14 50 Steakhouse 1 71 Indian 5 49 Seafood 5 56 Pizza 12 61 Southern / Soul Food 13 56 Pizza 2,5, 6, 15 53 Cafes 1 55 Casual Dining 14 75 Desserts / Bakery 14 58 Barbecue 11 75 Desserts / Bakery 5 56 Pizza 13 53 Cafes 4 69 Cajun / Creole 5 75 Desserts / Bakery 5 47 Bistro / New American 2 70 European / French 5 45 Upscale Casual 3 50 Steakhouse 1 54 Breakfast 13 49 Seafood 1 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,4 60 Deli / Sandwich 1 55 Casual Dining 6 45 Upscale Casual 1,2,5 47 Bistro / New American 8 50 Steakhouse 14 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,14 60 Deli / Sandwich 3 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 72 Mexican 5 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 70 European / Italian 6 44 Fine Dining 13 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,12 51 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,6,8,11,15 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 51 Burgers / Chicken 1 61 Diner / Home Style 13 61 Diner / Home Style 3 60 Deli / Sandwich 10 65 Microbreweries 2 75 Desserts / Bakery 1 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 49 Seafood 11 53 Cafes 2 72 Mexican 2 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 8 69 Asian / Vietnamese 13 53 Cafes 2 56 Pizza 5 72 Mexican 5 49 Seafood 10 72 Latin American 2,5,6, 15 69 Cuban / Caribbean 2 70 European / Italian 5 62 Southern / Soul Food 6 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 50 Steakhouse 16 50 Steakhouse 6,13, 14 71 Indian 4 55 Casual Dining 16 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 56 Pizza 16 45 Upscale Casual 6 61 Diner / Home Style 13 53 Cafes 3 55 Casual Dining 8,13,15 66 Asian / Chinese 1 55 Casual Dining 1 56 Pizza 5 55 Casual Dining 1 60 Deli / Sandwich 6 69 Cuban / Caribbean 9 51 Burgers / Chicken 1 51 Burgers / Chicken 5, 11, 15 69 Asian / Vietnamese 2 55 Casual Dining 2,4,5,8,13,15 66 Asian / Chinese 3,5 66 Asian / Chinese 1 66 Asian / Chinese 15 66 Asian / Chinese 8,13 66 Asian / Chinese 12 66 Asian / Chinese 11 66 Asian / Chinese 13 66 Asian / Chinese 12 66 Asian / Chinese 13 66 Asian / Chinese 6 66 Asian / Chinese 3 66 Asian / Chinese 16 72 Mexican 1,2,5,7,8,11 67 Asian / Chinese 11, 12 67 Asian / Chinese 9,13 53 Cafes 12 67 Asian / Chinese 1 75 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,15 70 European / Italian 2 58 Barbecue 5, 13 72 Latin American 1 71 Indian 5 53 Cafes 8 75 Desserts / Bakery 2 51 Burgers / Chicken 14,16 56 Pizza 3,5,13 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 14, 15, 16

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Cold Smoke Bagels Cold Stone Creamery Con Huevos Condado Tacos Connors Steak & Seafood Copper & Kings Rooftop Restaurant CoreLife Eatery Corner Corner Café Cottage Café Country Boy Brewing Craft House Pizza Crave Café & Catering Cravings Ala Carte Crumbl Cookies Cuban Restaurant and Bakery Cultivator Coffee Cultured Cheese and Charcuterie Culver's Cunningham's Creekside Cup of Joy Cured Restaurant & Salumeria Currito Cuvée Wine Table D. Nalley's Dad's Coffee Dairy Kastle Daisuki Sushi Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat's Gateaux & Bakery Danny Mac's Pasta & Pizza Dasha Barbours Bistro Dave & Buster's Dave & Peg's Copper Kettle Day's Espresso Deapster 502 Decade Deeno's Pizza & Wings Del Frisco's Denny's Derby Café Express Derby City Pizza Derby Dinner Playhouse Difabio's Casapela Dino's Bakery DiOrio's Pizza & Pub Dirty Dough Cookies District 6 Ditto's Grill Dixie Chicken Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow's Doc's Bourbon Room Donum Dei Brewery Double Dogs Double Dragon Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon II Down One Bourbon Bar Dragon Café Dragon City Dragon King's Daughter Drake's Duck Donuts Dundee Tavern East Star Buffet Eat A Pita Eat Your Bourbon Marketplace Eatz Vietnamese Restaurant Eden & Kissi Eggholic Eggs Over Frankfort Ehrler's Ice Cream El Caporal El Comal Taqueria El Maguey El Mariachi El Molcajete El Mundo El Nopal El Pastorcito El Rayo Seafood & Grill El Rio Grande El Rodeo Mexican El Sazon de Abuela El Sinaloense El Sombrero El Taco Loco El Taco Luchador El Tarasco El Torazo El Toro Cantina & Grill Emmy Squared Pizza Empanadas Alchemy Endless Summer Coffee Company Ens? Ens? Epiphany Barrel House Ev's Deli Exchange Pub + Kitchen Fa & Ada African Cuisine Falafel Oasis Falls City Taproom Family Ties Famous Dave's BBQ Fante's Coffee Fat Jimmy's FDKY BBQ Feast BBQ Felipe’s Mexican Restaurant Fiesta Mexicana Fiesta Time Amigos Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Firehouse Subs First String Bar & Grill First Watch First Wok Fistful of Ale Fistful of Tacos Five Guys Burgers Flanagan's Ale House Fleur de Tea Flo’s House of Soul Floyd County Brewing Co. Foko Fork & Barrel Forty Acres & A Mule Restaurant Four Kings Café Four Pegs Beer Lounge Franco's Restaurant Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot Frank's Meat & Produce Fresco Tea Bar Fresh Out the Box Frontier Diner Fuji Asian Bistro Fuji Japanese Steakhouse Full Stop Filling Station

60 Deli / Sandwich 1 75 Desserts / Bakery 6,16 54 Breakfast 1,2,6,8 72 Mexican 5 50 Steakhouse 5 45 Upscale Casual 2 55 Casual Dining 5, 15 51 Gastropub 1 53 Cafes 5 61 Diner / Home Style 5 65 Microbreweries 1 56 Pizza 6, 8, 11,13 53 Cafes 2 62 Cafeterias / Buffet 1 75 Desserts / Bakery 5, 8 ,11 69 Cuban / Caribbean 13 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 46 Upscale Casual 1 52 Burgers / Chicken 6,13,15 49 Seafood 10 53 Cafes 9 71 European / Spanish 1 55 Casual Dining 3 47 Bistro / New American 8 61 Diner / Home Style 1 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 75 Desserts / Bakery 13 68 Asian / Japanese 1, 2 71 Indian 11 75 Desserts / Bakery 13 56 Pizza 2 62 Southern / Soul Food 2 65 Entertainment Dining 3 61 Diner / Home Style 5 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 71 Indian 1 44 Fine Dinning 2 56 Pizza 12 50 Steakhouse 5 55 Casual Dining 13 53 Cafes 13 56 Pizza 2,6,12,13, 14 65 Entertainment Dining 16 70 European / Italian 2 75 Desserts / Bakery 9 56 Pizza 2,3,10 76 Desserts / Bakery 5 69 Asian / Vietnamese 2 47 Bistro / New American 2 52 Burgers / Chicken 9,12 52 Burgers / Chicken 1 46 Upscale Casual 1 51 Gastropub 1 65 Microbreweries 11 55 Casual Dining 5 67 Asian / Chinese 9,2 67 Asian / Chinese 6 67 Asian / Chinese 8,11,12,13 51 Gastropub 1 67 Asian / Chinese 10 67 Asian / Chinese 12 68 Asian / Japanese 2,14 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3, 6, 8, 15 76 Desserts / Bakery 3, 5 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 67 Asian / Chinese 13 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 55 Casual Dining 2 69 Asian / Vietnamese 2 70 Cuban / Caribbean 4 71 Indian 6 54 Breakfast 2 76 Desserts / Bakery 1, 2 72 Mexican 4,6 72 Mexican 12 72 Mexican 16 72 Mexican 5 72 Mexican 13 72 Mexican 2 72 Mexican [28] 72 Mexican 6, 13 72 Mexican 16 72 Mexican 5 73 Mexican 12 72 Latin American 13 73 Mexican 11 73 Mexican 16 73 Mexican 13 73 Mexican 2,6 73 Mexican 3,5,13 73 Mexican 6 73 Mexican 5 56 Pizza 1 72 Latin American 8 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 46 Upscale Casual 2 68 Asian / Japanese 2 65 Microbreweries 2 60 Deli / Sandwich 1 51 Gastropub 14 66 African 11 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 65 Microbreweries 1 52 Burgers / Chicken 9 58 Barbecue 6 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 56 Pizza 5 58 Barbecue 6 58 Barbecue 1 73 Mexican 3, 7 73 Mexican 4 73 Mexican 5,11 73 Mexican 8 60 Deli / Sandwich 11 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 55 Casual Dining 3,5,6,7,8,11,15 67 Asian / Chinese 12 65 Microbreweries 14 73 Mexican 14 52 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,8,11,14 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 8 62 Southern / Soul Food 9 65 Microbreweries 14 73 Mexican 1 46 Upscale Casual 2 62 Southern / Soul Food 13 61 Diner / Home Style 4 51 Gastropub 13 62 Southern / Soul Food 12 58 Barbecue 3 60 Deli / Sandwich 13 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 14, 15, 16 69 Asian / Korean 1 61 Diner / Home Style 12 68 Asian / Japanese 12 68 Asian / Japanese 8 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1

MAP #

Guide Index_WIN 23_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 11/25/23 10:10 PM Page 41

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

Fun Food Kitchen & Deli 62 Southern / Soul Food 8 Fun Tea 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Funmi's African Restaurant 66 African 4 Fuzzy's The 15th Club, Food & Spirits 46 Upscale Casual 16 Galan's Meat Market & Deli 60 Deli / Sandwich 9 Galaxie 51 Gastropub 1 Gallant Fox Brewing 65 Microbreweries 2 Game 55 Casual Dining 2, 16 Gander, An American Grill 55 Casual Dining 5 Garage Bar 47 Bistro / New American 1 Gaslight Diner 61 Diner / Home Style 6 Gatsby's On Fourth 55 Casual Dining 1 Gelato Gilberto 76 Desserts / Bakery 2, 8 Georgia's Sweet Potato Pie Co. 76 Desserts / Bakery 2 Geraldine's Kitchen 61 Diner / Home Style 16 Gerstle's Place 62 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Gertie’s Sports Bar Next Door 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Gertie’s Whiskey Hall 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Get It On a Bun at Booty's 52 Burgers / Chicken 14 Gigi's Cupcakes 76 Desserts / Bakery 6 Ginza Asian Bistro 68 Asian / Japanese 5 Glow Worm Play Cafe 76 Desserts / Bakery 2 Gogi 1055 Korean BBQ 69 Asian / Korean 2 Golden Buddha 67 Asian / Chinese 13 Golden Corral 62 Cafeterias / Buffet 4, 15 Golden Gate Donuts 76 Desserts / Bakery 13 Golden Star Chinese 67 Asian / Chinese 13 Good Belly 60 Deli / Sandwich 2 Goodbounce Pickleball Yard 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2, 16 Goodfellas Pizzeria 56 Pizza 2 Goodwood Brewing +Spirits 65 Microbreweries 1 Gordon Biersch Brewery 65 Microbreweries 1 Gordon Ramsay Steak 50 Steakhouse 14 Gore's Smokeout BBQ 58 Barbecue 9 Gorilla Bob’s Grub Shack 60 Deli / Sandwich 12 Gralehaus 51 Gastropub 2 Granville Inn 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Grape Leaf 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Grassa Gramma 70 European / Italian 7 Gravely Brewing Co. 65 Microbreweries 1 Great American Grill 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Great Flood Brewing Co. 65 Microbreweries 2,5 Great Wall 67 Asian / Chinese 2 Green District Salads 55 Casual Dining 1,2,3,5,8,15 Green Tea Chinese Restaurant 67 Asian / Chinese 14 Grind Burger Kitchen 52 Burgers / Chicken 1 Griyo Caribbean Restaurant 70 Cuban / Caribbean 1 Guacamole Modern Mexican 73 Mexican 1 Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken 52 Burgers / Chicken 5 Gustavo's Mexican Grill 73 Mexican 5, 8,10 Guy Fieri's Smokehouse 59 Barbecue 1 H. M. Frank's 51 Gastropub 16 Habana Blues Restaurant & Lounge 70 Cuban / Caribbean 13 Hammerheads 48 Bistro / New American 1 Happy Belly Bistro 48 Bistro / New American 2 Happy China 67 Asian / Chinese 6 Happy Dragon 67 Asian / Chinese 6 Haraz Coffee House 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1, 2 Harbor and Hops 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q 59 Barbecue 16 Harrods Creek Tavern 55 Casual Dining 10 Harry's Taphouse & Kitchen 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Harvey’s 48 Bistro / New American 2 Hauck's Corner 51 Gastropub 13 Havana Bakery Café 70 Cuban / Caribbean 11 Havana Night 70 Cuban / Caribbean 1 Havana Rumba 70 Cuban / Caribbean 5 Havana Rumba & Tapas 70 Cuban / Caribbean 2 Haymarket by Ashbourne Farms 60 Deli / Sandwich 7 Heart & Soy 68 Asian / Japanese 2 Heine Brothers' Coffee 77 Coffee / Tea Houses [15] Heirloom Chef’s Table 44 Fine Dinning 8 Heitzman Traditional Bakery & Deli 76 Desserts / Bakery 5 Hell or High Water 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Hibachi Buffet 67 Asian / Chinese 12 Hibachi Sushi Buffet 67 Asian / Chinese 13 Hideout Pizzaria 56 Pizza 12 Highland Morning 54 Breakfast 2,3 Highlands Bar & Grill 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Highlands Taproom Grill 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Highview Ice Cream & Coffee 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 11 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 68 Asian / Japanese 5 Hillcrest Tavern 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Hilltop Tavern 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Hing Wang Chinese Restaurant 67 Asian / Chinese 14 Hitching Post Inn 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Hi-Wire Brewing 65 Microbreweries 2 Holsopple Brewing 65 Microbreweries 5 Holy Grale 48 Bistro / New American 2 Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que 59 Barbecue 13 Home Run Burgers 52 Burgers / Chicken 5,6,11,13 Homemade Pie Kitchen 76 Desserts / Bakery [6] Hometown Brewing Co. 65 Microbreweries 13 Hometown Pizza 56 Pizza 5 Honey Crème Donut Shop 76 Desserts / Bakery 14 Honey Depot and Coffee House 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 6 Honeybaked Café 60 Deli / Sandwich 3,11,14 Honeydew 76 Desserts / Bakery 3 Hong Kong Fast Food 67 Asian / Chinese 13 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Hooters 52 Burgers / Chicken 3,13,12,15,16 Hot Box Eatery 53 Cafes 1 House of Marigold 46 Upscale Casual 5 Howl at the Moon 65 Entertainment Dining 1 Huge Impact Restaurant 48 Bistro / New American 1 Hungry Pelican 49 Seafood 11 Hyderabad House Louisville 71 Indian 5 I Love Juice Bar 53 Cafes 5, 8 I Love Pollo 52 Burgers / Chicken 5 I Love Tacos 72 Latin American 2, 6, 8 IHOP 55 Casual Dining 6,15 Imanka Restaurant 66 African 1 In Season 55 Casual Dining 1 Indi's Restaurant 52 Burgers / Chicken [8] InKredibles Burgers & Shakes 52 Burgers / Chicken 9 Insomnia Cookies 76 Desserts / Bakery 2 Irish Rover 70 European / Irish 2 Iroquois Pizza 56 Pizza 13 Island Breeze Jamaican BBQ 70 Cuban / Caribbean 2 Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet 73 Mexican 14 J. Alexander's Redlands Grill 46 Upscale Casual 3 J. Graham's Café 53 Cafes 1 J. Gumbo's 69 Cajun / Creole 2 Jack Fry's 44 Fine Dining 2 Jackdaw Coffee & Bourbon Bar 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Jade Palace 67 Asian / Chinese 5 Jaggers Restaurant 52 Burgers / Chicken 3, 5, 8 Jamaican Jerk Center 70 Cuban / Caribbean 4 Jasmin Bakery 76 Desserts / Bakery 4 Jasmine 67 Asian / Chinese 5 Jasmine Asian Bistro 67 Asian / Chinese 7 Jason's Deli 60 Deli / Sandwich 3,5 Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse 50 Steakhouse 1 Jeff's Donuts 76 Desserts / Bakery 1,3,6,8,11,14 Jersey Mike's Subs 60 Deli / Sandwich 2,5,6,8,14,15,16 Jerusalem Kitchen 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Jets Pizza 56 Pizza 2,3,5,8,11 Jimmy John's 60 Deli / Sandwich [15]

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 41

Guide Index_WIN 23_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 11/25/23 10:11 PM Page 42

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

JJ Bakes & Co. 76 Desserts / Bakery 1 Joe Huber Restaurant 66 Entertainment Dining 14 Joella's Hot Chicken 52 Burgers / Chicken 3,5, 15 Joely's Bar & Grill 73 Mexican 2 Joe's Crab Shack 49 Seafood 1 Joe's Older than Dirt 55 Casual Dining 5 John O'Bryan's Tavern 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Joy Luck 67 Asian / Chinese 2,8 Jucy's Smokehouse 59 Barbecue 5 Jumbo Buffet 67 Asian / Chinese 6 Juno Japanese 68 Asian / Japanese 8, 13 JW Café & Bakery 53 Cafes 5 Kabuki Hibachi & Ramen 68 Asian / Japanese 14, 16 Kansai Japanese Steakhouse 68 Asian / Japanese 6,15 Karem's 55 Casual Dining 8 Kashmir Indian 71 Indian 2 Kathmandu Kitchen and Bar 71 Indian 4 Kayrouz Café 53 Cafes 3 Kebab House 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Kern's Korner 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Khalil's 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Kim & Bab 69 Asian / Korean 14 King Donut 76 Desserts / Bakery 13 King Donuts 76 Desserts / Bakery 5 KingFish 50 Seafood 7,16 King's Fried Chicken 52 Burgers / Chicken 9 Koko+Rae Caribbean Kitchen 70 Cuban / Caribbean 2 Kolkin Coffee 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Koreana II 69 Asian / Korean 13 Kyros Brewing Co. 65 Microbreweries 9 L & J Asian Cuisine 68 Asian / Japanese 10 La Bamba 73 Mexican 2 La Bodeguita de Mima 70 Cuban / Caribbean 1 La Bodeguita Del Medio 72 Latin American 11 La Catrina Mexican Kitchen 73 Mexican 14 La Catrina Tacos & Tequila 73 Mexican 16 La Chapinlandia 74 Mexican 13 La Chasse 44 Fine Dining 2 La Guanaquita 72 Latin American 13 La Loma 74 Mexican 16 La Lupita 74 Mexican 15 La Maison Aux Crepes 76 Desserts / Bakery 1 La Pana Bakery 76 Desserts / Bakery 1 La Popular 74 Mexican 13 La Riviera Maya 74 Mexican 13 La Rosita Taqueria 74 Mexican 5,13 La Sierra 74 Mexican 11 La Suerte 72 Latin American 2 La Terraza Fourth Street 74 Mexican 1 La Torta Loca 74 Mexican 13 La Tropicana 74 Mexican 13 Lady Tron's 60 Deli / Sandwich 14 LaRosa's Pizzeria 56 Pizza 8 Las Cazuelas 74 Mexican 13 Las Gorditas 74 Mexican 11 Las Margaritas Mexican Restaurant 74 Mexican 5, 13 Last Place at Number 15 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Le Moo 50 Steakhouse 2 LeAnn's Home Made Cheesecakes 76 Desserts / Bakery 1 Leaven Bakery 76 Desserts / Bakery 14 Lee's Korean 69 Asian / Korean 13 Legacy Pizza & Bakery 57 Pizza 14 Legends Café 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Lemongrass Restaurant 69 Asian / Vietnamese 4,5 Lenny's Sub Shop 60 Deli / Sandwich 4 Levee Bourbon Lounge 46 Upscale Casual 7 Lil' Wagners 61 Diner / Home Style 13 Limòn y Sal 74 Mexican 8 Lindsay's Kitchen 61 Diner / Home Style 12 Ling Ling 67 Asian / Chinese 5 Little Caesar's Pizza 57 Pizza [12] Little Greek Fresh Grill 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Liu's Garden 67 Asian / Chinese 5 Locos 74 Mexican 1 Logan's Roadhouse 50 Steakhouse 6,12 Longhorn Steakhouse 50 Steakhouse 6,8,13,15 Lonnie's Best Taste Of Chicago 60 Deli / Sandwich 2 Los Aztecas 74 Mexican 5,10 Losers812 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Lotsa Pasta 60 Deli / Sandwich 3 Lou Lou Food + Drink 48 Bistro / New American 3 Lou Lou on Market 48 Bistro / New American 1 Louie's Hot Chicken & Barbecue 59 Barbecue 13 Louisville Cream 76 Desserts / Bakery 1 Louisville International Pub 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Louisville Pizza King 57 Pizza 13 Louisville Tea Co. 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Louvino 48 Bistro / New American 2,5 Lucky Burrito 74 Mexican 2 Lucky Leopard Pizza 57 Pizza 2 Lucretia's Kitchen 62 Southern / Soul Food 1 Lueberry Acai & Superfoods 76 Desserts / Bakery 1, 8 Luigi's Pizzeria 57 Pizza 1 Luna's Rotisserie 74 Mexican 13 M&M BBQ 59 Barbecue 13 Ma Zerella's 57 Pizza 15 Mack Bros BBQ 59 Barbecue 9 Mac's @ Mile Wide 57 Pizza 1 Main Eatery 60 Deli / Sandwich 1 Main Event Bar & Grill 66 Entertainment Dining 6 Maira Mediterranean Grill 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Mai's Thai Restaurant 69 Asian / Thai 16 Malone's 50 Steakhouse 8 Mama Shadia 71 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 9 Mango's Bar & Grill 74 Mexican 11 Marco's Pizza 57 Pizza 12, 14 Maria’s Tacos 74 Mexican 16 Mariscos Los Plebes 74 Mexican 5 Mark T's Slabhouse 59 Barbecue 13 Mark's Feed Store 59 Barbecue 2,5,11,12,14 Martini Itialian Bistro 70 European / Italian 8 Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint 59 Barbecue 8 Masa Japanese 68 Asian / Japanese 5 Masala Grill 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Matt Winn Steakhouse 50 Steakhouse 13 Mattie's Kitchen 62 Southern / Soul Food 9 Maya Bagel Express 60 Deli / Sandwich 2 Mayan Café 74 Mexican 1 McAlister's Deli 60 Deli / Sandwich [10] MeeshMeesh 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Melt 502 60 Deli / Sandwich 9 Melting Pot 46 Upscale Casual 6 Merle's Whiskey Kitchen 48 Bistro / New American 1 Mesa 66 Entertainment Dining 14 Mesh 46 Upscale Casual 3 Metro Diner 61 Diner / Home Style 11 Mexico City Tacqueria and Restaurant 74 Mexican 16 Mexico Lindo 74 Mexican 16 MG's Prime Time Café 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Mi Bonito Pinotepa 74 Mexican 13 Mi Casita Parrilla Mexicana 74 Mexican 1 Mi Sueño 70 Cuban / Caribbean 4 Mi Tierra Mexican Restaurant 74 Mexican 7 Mickey's 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Mike Linnig's 50 Seafood 12 Miki’s Korean Restaurant & Karaoke 69 Asian / Korean 2 Milano Italian Restaurant 70 European / Italian 8 Milantoni Italian Restaurant 70 European / Italian 6

42 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANT

Mile Wide Beer Company Mimo's Pizzeria Mirage Mediterranean Restaurant Misawa Hibachi & Sushi Mission BBQ Mitchell's Fish Market Mochi Dog Moe's Southwest Grill Mojito in Havana Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone's Momma's Mustard Pickles & BBQ Monnik Beer Co. More Shenanigan's Morning Fork Morris Deli & Catering Morton's Of Chicago Moya's American Kitchen Mozza Pi Mr. Gatti's Mt. Fuji Mulligan's at Glenmary Mussel & Burger Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Naïve Nami NamNam Café Neat Bourbon Bar + Bottle Shop Neighborhood Services Neighbors Noodles Neil & Patty's Fireside Grill New Albanian Brewing Co. Pizzeria New Albanian Brewing Company New Direction Bar & Grill Nic & Norman’s Noble Funk Brewery Noche Mexican BBQ Noodles & Company Noosh Nosh Nord's Bakery Norma Jean’s Baked Goods North Lime Donuts North of Bourbon Nostalgic Nouvelle Bar & Bottle Ntaba Coffee Haus Number 15 O'Charley's O'Dolly's Off the Rails Tasting Room OhChae, Korean Fusion Cuisine Oishii Sushi Old Hickory Inn Old Louisville Brewery Old Louisville Tavern Old School NY Pizza Old Spaghetti Factory Olé Frijole Olive Garden Oliver's Chop House & Bourbon Bar Ollie's Trolley Onion Restaurant & Tea House Open Caribbean Kitchen Orange Clover Kitchen Oriental Café Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri's O'Shea's Irish Pub Oskar's Slider Bar Osteria Italian Seafood Our Lady of Perpetual Hops Outback Steakhouse OUTCAST Fish & Oyster Bar OvrDrive Games P.F. Chang's China Bistro Panchitos Ice Cream Panda Express Panera Bread Co. Papa Murphy's Pizza Paris Banh Mi & Bakery Parlay Parlour Pizza Parnelli's Chicago Eatery Paseo Pasha's Mediterranean Passtime Fish House Patrick O'Shea's Pat's Steak House Paul's Fruit Market Payne Street Bakehouse Pearl Street Game & Coffee House Pearl Street Taphouse Pearl Street Treats Penn Station Penny and Pearl's Bakeshop Philly's Best Frozen Desserts Pho Ba Luu Pho Café Pho Phi Pier 17 Cajun Seafood Pig Beach BBQ Pin + Proof Piña Fiesta Mexican Grill Pints&Union Pivot Brewing Co. Pizza Donisi Pizza King Pizza Lupo Pizza Place Pizzaville Playa Bowls Please & Thank You Plehn's Bakery PokeHana Polly Freeze Porch Kitchen & Bar Porcini Potbelly Sandwhich Shop Po-Z's Kitchen Pregame Coffee Proof On Main Public House by Against The Grain Puerto Vallarta Pure Blendz Purrfect Day Cat Café Qdoba Mexican Grill Que Pasa Mexican Grill Queen of Sheba Quill's Coffee Quizno's Subs Rafferty's of Louisville Railbirds Hot Chicken Railyard Billiards & Sports Pub Raising Cane's Ramen House Ramiro's Cantina Ramsi's Café

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

65 Microbreweries 2 57 Pizza 14 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 68 Asian / Japanese 11 59 Barbecue 3,15 50 Seafood 8 76 Desserts / Bakery 13 75 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,6,8,11 70 Cuban / Caribbean 3 71 European / Spanish 7 70 European / Irish 2 59 Barbecue 3,5 65 Microbreweries 13 70 European / Irish 4 54 Breakfast 2 60 Deli / Sandwich 2 50 Steakhouse 1 55 Casual Dining 6 57 Pizza 2, 5 57 Pizza 12,13,15 68 Asian / Japanese 13 66 Entertainment Dining 11 52 Burgers / Chicken 1,6 76 Desserts / Bakery 5 66 Entertainment Dining 13 55 Casual Dining 2 69 Asian / Korean 1 69 Asian / Vietnamese 3 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 48 Bistro / New American 3 69 Asian / Korean 1 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 57 Pizza 14 65 Microbreweries 14 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 46 Upscale Casual 1 65 Microbreweries 1 74 Mexican 1, 2 55 Casual Dining 6,8,13 48 Bistro / New American 7 76 Desserts / Bakery 13 76 Desserts / Bakery 1 76 Desserts / Bakery 5, 13 46 Upscale Casual 13 50 Steakhouse 2 49 Bistro / New American 1 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2, 13 49 Bistro / New American 1 55 Casual Dining 6 61 Diner / Home Style 13 49 Bistro / New American 4 69 Asian / Korean 14 68 Asian / Japanese 4 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 65 Microbreweries 13 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 57 Pizza 5,8 70 European / Italian 1 74 Mexican 11 70 European / Italian 6,8,11,15 50 Steakhouse 13 52 Burgers / Chicken 1 67 Asian / Chinese 14 70 Cuban / Caribbean 13 53 Cafes 16 67 Asian / Chinese 4 67 Asian / Chinese 3 67 Asian / Chinese 13 57 Pizza 2,5,10 70 European / Irish 2 52 Burgers / Chicken 13 50 Seafood 5 65 Microbreweries 14 50 Steakhouse 8,11,13,15 50 Seafood 14 66 Entertainment Dining 1 49 Bistro / New American 5 76 Desserts / Bakery 13 67 Asian / Chinese 5,6,8,15 60 Deli / Sandwich [11] 57 Pizza [7] 76 Desserts / Bakery 2 63 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 57 Pizza 1, 2, 6, 14, 16 60 Deli / Sandwich 16 46 Upscale Casual 2 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 50 Seafood 6 70 European / Irish 1 50 Steakhouse 2 60 Deli / Sandwich 3,4,5,7 60 Deli / Sandwich 2 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 16 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 76 Desserts / Bakery 16 60 Deli / Sandwich [17] 76 Desserts / Bakery 3 76 Desserts / Bakery 3 69 Asian / Vietnamese 2 69 Asian / Vietnamese 3 69 Asian / Vietnamese 3 50 Seafood Boils 6 58 Barbecue 1 66 Entertainment Dining 1 74 Mexican 12 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 65 Microbreweries 2 57 Pizza 13 57 Pizza 14,16 57 Pizza 2 57 Pizza 4 57 Pizza 8 53 Cafes 2, 3 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2,10 76 Desserts / Bakery 3 68 Asian / Japanese 1 76 Desserts / Bakery 14 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 71 European / Italian 2 60 Deli / Sandwich 1,6,8 62 Southern / Soul Food 12 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 46 Upscale Casual 1 65 Microbreweries 2 74 Mexican 11,14,16 54 Cafes 1 54 Cafes 2 74 Mexican [18] 74 Mexican 1 66 African 4 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2,3,6,8 60 Deli / Sandwich 14 55 Casual Dining 3 52 Burgers / Chicken 13 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 52 Burgers / Chicken 2,6,8,11,12 68 Asian / Japanese 2 74 Mexican 16 54 Cafes 2

RESTAURANT

Rawnaissance Desserts Recbar Red Hog Red Hot Roasters Red Lobster Red Robin Red Sun Chinese Restaurant Red Yeti Restaurant Renshoku Ramen Repeal Oak-Fired Steakhouse Rice Bowl Rice Box Rickhouse Barbecue Ricky B's Club Café River City Drafthouse River House Restaurant River Road BBQ ROC Restaurant Roof Top Grill Roosters Roots Rosettes Royal's Hot Chicken Rubbie's Southside Grill Rubbin' Butts BBQ Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Ruth's Chris Steakhouse Sabor Latino Safai Coffee Safier Mediterranean Deli Saint's Sake Blue Sakura Blue Salsarita's Fresh Cantina Sam's Food & Spirits Sam's Gyro Sam's Seafood & Grill Samurai Sangria Bar at Union Sankalp Louisville Sante Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Sarang Sarap Filipino Eatery Sarino Scene Schlotzky's Deli Scooter's Coffee Seafood Heaven Seafood Lady Seasoned Pub & Grill Seeds & Greens Deli Selena's At Willow Lake Tavern Senegambia African Restaurant Señor Iguana's Senora Arepa Sergio's World Beers Seviche A Latin Restaurant Shack In The Back BBQ Shady Lane Café Shalimar Indian Shark's Seafood Shenanigan's Irish Grille Sherrilli's Pizza Parlor Shippingport Brewing Co. Shiraz Mediterranean Grill Shirley Mae's Café Shogun Shoney's ShopBar Shreeji Indian Vegetarian Sichuan Garden Sicilian Pizza & Pasta Sidebar at Whiskey Row Silvio's Italian Restaurant Simply Mediterranean Simply Thai Sinclair Smoked Salmon Sis Got Tea Sister Bean's Six Forks Burger Co. Skyline Chili Sleepy Rooster Morning Kitchen Smashburger Smokey Bones BBQ SnoWhat Sol Aztecas Somewhere by CC Soul Food Dining Soul Hi Vegan Soupy's Southern Express Southern Hospitality Spaghetti Shop Spinelli's Pizzeria Spring Street Bar & Grill Square Cut Pizza and Sugar Room Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starlight Café Starlight Coffee Co. Steak & Bourbon Steak 'n Shake Stevens Deli Stomping Grounds Coffee Co. Stoney River Storming Crab Sub Station II Sue's Touch of Country Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sunergos Coffee Sushi Master Sway Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweets By Morgan Switch Board Swizzle Syrian Grill Abu Abdu Taco Choza Taco City Louisville Taco Rito Tacos Los Gorditos Taj Palace Tandoori Fusion TanThai Restaurant Taqueria Don Juan Taqueria El Mexicano Taqueria La Mexicana Tartan House Tavern On Fourth Taylor's Cajun Meat Co. Taylor's Cereal Bowl Kitchen Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe Tea Station Chinese Bistro TEN20 Craft Brewery Terri Lynn's Cafe and Catering Texas Roadhouse TGI Friday's Thai Noodles

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

76 Desserts / Bakery 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,14 54 Cafes 2 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 50 Seafood 3,13,15 52 Burgers / Chicken 3,8 67 Asian / Chinese 4 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 68 Asian / Japanese 1 50 Steakhouse 1 69 Asian / Korean 14 67 Asian / Chinese 13 59 Barbecue 14 46 Upscale Casual 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 46 Upscale Casual 7 59 Barbecue 7 71 European / Italian 2 70 Cuban / Caribbean 1 52 Burgers / Chicken 5,8,11,12,13 68 Asian / Japanese 2 47 Upscale Casual 1 52 Burgers / Chicken 1 59 Barbecue 13 59 Barbecue 14 50 Seafood 5 50 Steakhouse 3 72 Latin American 13 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 68 Asian / Japanese 11 68 Asian / Japanese 3 75 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,5 55 Casual Dining 14 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 50 Seafood 13 68 Asian / Japanese 5 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 71 Indian 6 74 Mexican 13 68 Asian / Japanese 2 69 Asian / Korean 2 68 Asian / Filippino 1 71 European / Italian 13 47 Upscale Casual 1 60 Deli / Sandwich 8 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 5,12,13 50 Seafood 1 50 Seafood Boils 1 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 10 60 Deli / Sandwich 14 69 Cajun / Creole 5 66 African 4 74 Mexican 11, 15 72 Latin American 3 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 44 Fine Dining 2 59 Barbecue 13 54 Cafes 7 71 Indian 6 50 Seafood 4 70 European / Irish 2 57 Pizza 15 65 Microbreweries 1 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2,5,7,8,13 62 Southern / Soul Food 1 68 Asian / Japanese 6 55 Casual Dining 13 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 71 Indian 6 67 Asian / Chinese 6 58 Pizza 1,11 49 Bistro / New American 1 71 European / Italian 3 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 69 Asian / Thai 3,5 50 Seafood 2 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 52 Burgers / Chicken 13 55 Casual Dining 2,3,6,14 54 Breakfast 14 52 Burgers / Chicken 1,5,13 59 Barbecue 6 76 Desserts / Bakery 13 74 Mexican 2,11 47 Upscale Casual 2 62 Southern / Soul Food 13 62 Southern / Soul Food 2 60 Deli / Sandwich 4 62 Southern / Soul Food 13 62 Southern / Soul Food 9 71 European / Italian 14 58 Pizza 2,3 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 58 Pizza 1 68 Asian / Japanese 16 77 Coffee / Tea Houses [46] 54 Cafes 14 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 14, 15 51 Steakhouse 5 52 Burgers / Chicken 13,15 60 Deli / Sandwich 2 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 12 51 Steakhouse 8 50 Seafood Boils 11,15 60 Deli / Sandwich 13 62 Southern / Soul Food 12 76 Desserts / Bakery 11 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2, 3, 13 68 Asian / Japanese 8 47 Upscale Casual 1 76 Desserts / Bakery 14 76 Desserts / Bakery 16 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 45 Fine Dining 1 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 74 Mexican 3 74 Mexican 2, 4, 5 74 Mexican 1 74 Mexican 1, 2, 6, 13 71 Indian 8 71 Indian 8 69 Asian / Thai 14 74 Mexican 16 74 Mexican 13 74 Mexican 13 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 69 Cajun / Creole 14 54 Cafes 16 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3,5,15 67 Asian / Chinese 8 65 Microbreweries 2, 5, 16 54 Cafes 14 51 Steakhouse 2,5,12,13,15 55 Casual Dining 1 69 Asian / Thai 13

Guide Index_WIN 23_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 11/25/23 10:11 PM Page 43

RESTAURANT

The 1894 Lodge The B.A. Colonial The Back Door The Bakery at Sullivan University The Bep Teahouse The Black Italian The Black Jockey's Lounge The Block Gourmet Deli The Café The Capital Grille The Champagnery The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The Cheesecake Factory The Chef’s Table VIP Club The Chicken Box The Chicken House The ChillBurger The Coffee Boxx The Coffee Zone The Comfy Cow The Corner The Cottage Inn The Eagle The Earl The Fat Lamb The Fish House The Fishery The Flour Shoppe The Fox Den The Goose The Grain Haus The Hub Louisville The Keswick Club The Kitchen Table The Library The Manhattan Project The Misfit Lou The Old Louisville Coffee Co-op The Palm Room The Peach Cobbler Factory The Pearl The Pine Room The Post The Raven The Silly Axe Café The Silver Dollar The South Seas The Sports & Social Club The Starving Artist Café The StrEatery The Table The Water Company The Wing Zone The Smokery Thelma's Deli Thirsty Hound Sports Bar Three Brothers Tiger Sugar Tikka House Tim Tam Tavern Time 4 Thai Tin Roof Tino's Tacos Tino's Taste of Heaven Toast on Market Toasty's Tavern ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tomo Japanese Ramen Sushi Tomo Japanese Restaurant Top 1 Korean BBQ & Hotpot Top Hat Café Torchy's Tacos Torino's Sandwich Bar Town Tres Amigos Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tropical Smoothie Cafe Tsubaki Sushi & Bar Tucker's Tumbleweed TurnStation Brewery Co. Tuscany Italian Restaurant Twig & Leaf Twin Peaks Union 15 Union Restaurant & GameYard Upland Brewing Co. Uptown Café Vallarta Mexican Seafood and Grill Varanese Vernon Lanes Veronica’s Mexican Restaurant V-Grits Vibes Restaurant & Ultra Lounge Vic's Café Victoria Mexican Restaurant Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen VinBun Vietnamese Bistro Vincenzo's Virtue Bar & Lounge Volare W.W. Cousin's Wagner's Pharmacy Waldo’s Chicken & Beer Walker's Exchange Walk-On's Sports Bistreaux Watch Hill Proper WayCool Café Week-End Burgers West 6th NuLu Which Wich?

White Buddha Wick’s Slice Wick's Pizza Parlor Wild Eggs Wild Hops Bourbon Bar & Lounge Williams Bakery Wiltshire at the Speed Wiltshire Pantry Bakery and Café Wingstop WNB Factory Wologisi Restaurant World of Beer Xian's Kitchen Yamato Japanese Steak House Yellow Cactus Yen Ching Yoki Buffet Yummy Pollo Zanzabar Za's Pizza Zaxby's Zeggz Amazing Eggs Zoe's Kitchen Zombie Taco

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

45 Upscale Casual 16 55 Casual Dining 13 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 76 Desserts / Bakery 4 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 71 European / Italian 2 62 Southern / Soul Food 1 60 Deli / Sandwich 5 54 Cafes 1 51 Steakhouse 5 49 Bistro / New American 2 54 Cafes 3 54 Cafes 3 45 Upscale Casual 3 47 Upscale Casual 1 52 Burgers / Chicken 12 51 Burgers / Chicken 14 52 Burgers / Chicken 15 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 9 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 75 Desserts / Bakery 5, 8, 13 58 Pizza 8 61 Diner / Home Style 13 52 Burgers / Chicken 2, 5 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 49 Bistro / New American 2 49 Seafood 2,5 50 Seafood 11 76 Desserts / Bakery 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 61 Diner / Home Style 5 58 Pizza 14 49 Bistro / New American 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 62 Southern / Soul Food 13 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 51 Gastropub 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 9 76 Desserts / Bakery 2, 5 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 49 Bistro / New American 10 58 Pizza 2, 13 70 European / Irish 3 54 Cafes 1 49 Bistro / New American 2 55 Casual Dining 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 54 Cafes 5 55 Casual Dining 13 54 Cafes 9 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 52 Burgers / Chicken 4, 12, 13 60 Barbecue 2 60 Deli / Sandwich 1 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 50 Seafood 9 77 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 71 Indian 3 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 69 Asian / Thai 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 74 Mexican 13 62 Southern / Soul Food 9 54 Breakfast 14 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 68 Asian / Japanese 5 68 Asian / Japanese 7 68 Asian / Japanese 13 68 Asian / Japanese 14 69 Asian / Korean 2 54 Cafes 1 75 Mexican 15 60 Deli / Sandwich 1 71 European / Italian 16 75 Mexican 5 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 54 Cafes 5, 8, 13 68 Asian / Japanese 5 55 Casual Dining 14 75 Southwest / Tex Mex [8] 65 Microbreweries 71 European / Italian 13 54 Breakfast 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 58 Pizza 13 66 Entertainment Dining 16 65 Microbreweries 16 47 Upscale Casual 2 75 Mexican 6 47 Upscale Casual 2 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 75 Mexican 13 62 Southern / Soul Food 1 62 Southern / Soul Food 1 54 Cafes 14 75 Mexican 4 69 Asian / Vietnamese 13 49 Bistro / New American 5 60 Deli / Sandwich 4, 5, 8 69 Asian / Vietnamese 5 45 Fine Dining 1 52 Burgers / Chicken 2 71 European / Italian 2 52 Burgers / Chicken 3 61 Diner / Home Style 13 52 Burgers / Chicken 8 47 Upscale Casual 1 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 47 Upscale Casual 8 54 Cafes 1 52 Burgers / Chicken 13 65 Microbreweries 1 60 Deli / Sandwich 6,8,14 68 Asian / Japanese 5 58 Pizza 1 58 Pizza 2,4,6 54 Breakfast 1,3,5,6,14,15 65 Microbreweries 1 76 Desserts / Bakery 15 49 Bistro / New American 13 54 Cafes 1, 2, 8 52 Burgers / Chicken 6,12 52 Burgers / Chicken 2 66 African 4 51 Gastropub 8 68 Asian / Filipino 5 68 Asian / Japanese 14 75 Mexican 2, 6, 14 67 Asian / Chinese 6 67 Asian / Chinese 6 72 Latin American 13 64 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 58 Pizza 2 52 Burgers / Chicken 5,12,13,14,16 54 Breakfast 5 72 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 75 Mexican 1

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 43

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 44

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price: $$$$ = under $10 $$$$ = $10 - $15 $$$$ = $16 - $24 $$$$ = $25 & up

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

p Full Bar =

f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE, KY (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers in KENTUCKY use area code 502 All phone numbers in INDIANA use area code 812 jj bakes

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570.

Tucked away since 1993 across the rail¬road tracks in St. Matthews amid a little cluster of upscale shops, 211 Clover rewards those in the know with drinks in a quiet elegant lounge and impeccable seasonal menus. Owner/chef Andrew Smith and managing partners Lee and Chad Middendorf have reestablished lunch service. $$$$ D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Since taking over this Old Louisville landmark restaurant in 2004, Edward Lee has

44 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

become a Food TV fixture and opened several new restaurants. Jeff Potter the Executive Chef at this perennial top table and continues the adventurous prix-fixe menu. $$$$ D pf BARN8 10500 W. US Hwy 42, 398-9289. The newest project of Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson is refashioning their Hermitage Farm as an agro-tourism destination. Building number 8 of the historic thoroughbred stable (where Dark Star, who defeated Northern Dancer in 1953, was foaled) is now a restaurant open to the public.

Diners can choose to dine at private tables (in the stalls) or rent the Hayloft for parties up to 200. Executive Chef Seth Kinder’s eclectic menu features heirloom, local and seasonal ingredients drawn heavily from the farm’s extensive gardens. $$$$ D pf

BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. This elegant, understated dining room has been an upscale lunch and dinner destination since 1992, an Old Louisville institution that draws patrons from across the city. The lavish white flowers in the bar remain, as does the crispy fish and spicy noodles on the menu. Also on the menu are well-made traditional dishes: fried chicken livers and shrimp cocktail, Bibb lettuce salad, filet mignon and seafood rigatoni. $$$ L D pf DECADE 1076 E. Washington St., 749-0110. Former Decca coowner Chad Sheffield, Executive Chef Andy Myers, and Chef de Cuisine Matt Johnson got the band back together, reworking the old Butchertown Grocery premises and branding their project as Decade in a purposeful nod to their collective past in NuLu. The motif is American fine dining with myriad international influences, boasting an upstairs event space dubbed “b side.” $$$$ D pf HEIRLOOM CHEF’S TABLE 9448 Norton Commons Blvd., 8221184. There are only 6 tables at this suburban outlet for United Catering. Chef Ryan Smith creates multi-course meals for small groups, emphasizing foods from local purveyors. $$$$ D p JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longest-running top tables. Seating is tight but the food is consistently excellent. Chef Duncan Williams has continued classic menu items that regulars love (crab cakes, shrimp and grits) and worked in newer items (braised pork shank, squash risotto). $$$$ L D p LA CHASSE 1359 Bardstown Rd., 822-3963. Font-of-the-house man Isaac Fox creates the ambience of a fine European country inn in the heart of the Highlands. The frequently-changing menu, overseen by Chef Alex Dulaney, fuses the tastes and techniques of Southern France and Northern Spain. $$$$ D p SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 4738560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to its namesake, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D pf

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 45

SWIZZLE 140 N. Fourth St. (The Galt House), 252-2500. The Galt House replaces Rivue, its 25th floor restaurant, with Swizzle, a retro-meets-modern redesigned room with a menu focused on steaks, chops and sustainable seafood served up from the openconcept exhibition kitchen in the middle of the restaurant, allowing diners to watch the action. The retro beverage program will focus on classic cocktails, with seasonal specials. $$$$ D p VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Founded in 1986 and known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own amid a constantly changing downtown scene. Those hits (Toasted Ravioli Diavolo, Pasta Cacciatore, Crepes Agostino) just keep on coming, along with a regular garnering of plaudits: the 50 best Italian restaurants in America list (Yahoo, 2020) and a 2022 AAA Four Diamond Award, among others. $$$$ L D pf

THE 1894 LODGE 409 E. Main St., New Washington IN, 628-9006.

This ambitious restaurant, housed in a historic building a not-toodistant trek up State 62, offers two different dining rooms and a bar area. The menu has some typical bar fare (burgers, chicken tenders, sandwiches), but also some less usual items: Korean salmon, bonein pork chop, Cajun pasta. $$$ D pf 8UP ELEVATED DRINKERY AND KITCHEN 350 W. Chestnut St., 631-4180. This rooftop restaurant and bar above the Hilton Garden Inn has three elegant areas - an upscale casual dining room, the bar with a separate kitchen and menu, and an expansive outdoor patio that overlooks downtown. The bar kitchen’s two wood-fired ovens offer small plates to nibble while sipping; the main kitchen overseen

by Executive Chef Henry Wesley serves fine dinners. $$$ B D pf BLACK RABBIT 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. The long-standing Equus in St. Matthews has been comprehensively reimagined as Black Rabbit, a speakeasy-themed “behind the bookcase” experience serving chef-driven small plates (examples include smoked duck legs, octopus and French dip sliders), with craft cocktails, top-end bourbon and an extensive wine list available amid a warren of five uniquely atmospheric dining and drinking areas: Jack’s Bourbon Lounge, Rabbit Hole Dining Room, The Burrow Speakeasy, The Parlor and Hatter (patio lounge). $$$ D pf BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Long-time restaurateur Rick Dissell’s comfortable, casual restaurant in the Prospect Center continues to please regulars and to find new fans.

The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ Br L D pf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now, with three venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. $$ Br L D pf CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 491-1184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail. The eclectic menu offers classic American and Kentucky fare with many dishes that incorporate some of the bar’s 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D p THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the California-based chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind of restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D pf COPPER & KINGS ROOFTOP RESTAURANT 1121 E. Washington St., 561-0269. Up on the third floor of the distillery,

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 45

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 46

with a fine view over the city, you can find a menu of cocktails using Copper & Kings distillates, and a food menu that ranges from the familiar (pimento cheese, Caesar salad) to the unusual (salmon tartine, sesame scallion pancake). $$$ Br L Dpf CULTURED CHEESE, CHEERS, AND CHARCUTERIE 1007 E. Main St., 409-8706. Made-to-order charcuterie boards, including some with vegan and vegetarian options. Cheese selections showcase the owner’s family’s Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese and other mainly local food products. $$ L D p f DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D p ENSO 1758 Frankfort Ave., 384-7931. Meaning “full circle,” it’s a fresh blend of traditions from Chef Lawrence Weeks and the team at North of Bourbon, as Japanese techniques and influences are combined with Southern ingredients, a shared legacy of hospitality characterizing both contributors. As an example, yakitori (skewers) with specially prepared okra instead of chicken. $$$ D pf FORK & BARREL 1722 Frankfort Ave., 830-9500. Chef/owner Geoffrey Heyde has consolidated his two “Fork” restaurants into the Lower Clifton space that had been Morning Fork. With all three meals Heyde serves up on local ingredients, craft cocktails and southern hospitality. Look for starters like langostino fritters, buttermilk soaked fried chicken livers, or devilish eggs; entrees such as vegetarian ravioli, salmon and beef tip stroganoff. For dessert choose from cheesecake, fruit-filled sweet crèpe or triple chocolate brownie. $$$ D p FUZZY'S THE 15TH CLUB, FOOD & SPIRITS 4900 Water Tower Rd., Jeffersonville IN, 812-670-5713. New Albany native Fuzzy Zoeller enjoyed a successful golfing career, then launched Fuzzy’s Ultra Premium Vodka, which pours at his new branded restaurant inside the Hilton Garden Inn Jeffersonville. It’s open to the public, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, featuring American cuisine of precisely the sort you’d expect Fuzzy and friend John Daly to enjoy. $$ B L D pf

46 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

HOUSE OF MARIGOLD 10310 Shelbyville Rd., 384-3767. A husband-and-wife catering team has repurposed an eatery on the west side of Middletown into “a little bit of Nashville, a little bit of Naples, a little bit Beverly Hills Hotel,” offering full-service breakfast and lunch (“seasonal comfort food,” sourced locally) with a cocktail bar, in addition to event hosting.$$$ B Br L p f J. ALEXANDER’S REDLANDS GRILL 102 Oxmoor Court, 3392206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D p LEVEE BOURBON LOUNGE 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. John Varanese’s riverside music bar has been redesigned and rebuilt as a Bourbon-centric bar and lounge, with Bourbon barrel tables, sofas and easy chairs in the lounge, artwork and decor made from barrel tops and staves, and, of course, a large, eclectic selection of over 200 Bourbons (and other spirits). Order from the River House menu while you sip: sautéed mussels, grilled octopus, a charcuterie tray or any of the delights on the raw bar. $$$ D pf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-4762. If you have pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ‘70s, The Melting Pot franchise is for you. If you can melt it and dip things in it, it’s probably on the menu (make mine Classic Alpine, please). A major remodeling has opened up the floor plan, enhanced bar seating and added a group party area. $$$ D p MESH 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 632-4421. The lush modern building and the casual/elegant menu have made a strong presence in the neighborhood. The cosmopolitan menu includes kung pao calamari, beet salad, Amish chicken and mushroom strudel, all served in an atmosphere. $$$$ Br L D pf NIC & NORMAN’S 108 W. Washington St., 963-5654. Greg “Nic” Nicotero and Norman Reedus, alumni of “The Walking Dead” television series, teamed up to create their own restaurant concept, and the fifth one in this series is located at Whiskey Alley downtown, emphasizing Southern-inspired entrées (homestyle meatloaf, whiskey citrus salmon, Coca-Cola braised pork shank) plus a selection of salads, soups, gourmet burgers

and flatbreads, with signature cocktails and craft beer from local breweries. $$ Br L D pf NORTH OF BOURBON 935 Goss Ave., 749-3305. New Orleans and the Deep South converge in Germantown with inventive lunch, brunch and dinner menus from Chef Lawrence Weeks, focusing on traditional and heirloom ingredients, with dishes like Shrimp Yakamein (a New Orleans fusion dish said to cure hangovers), Crawfish Boudin Balls and Chicken & Sausage Gumbo. The bar features more than 300 bourbons and a range of bourbon cocktails. $$$ L D pf PASEO 900 Baxter Ave. (The Myriad Hotel), 632-7935. In Spanish, “paseo” implies a leisurely stroll; in Louisvillian, Paseo is the Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern-inspired restaurant in The Myriad Hotel amid the walkable Highlands, where diners can experience casual ambiance as they enjoy locally sourced and chefdriven dishes like paella (with land and sea options), chorizo octopus, and harissa cauliflower steak. $$$$ Br L D pf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 217-6360. The 21C Museum Hotel’s longstanding downtown restaurant, currently under the stewardship of chef Cody Stone (an original 2005 sous chef there), remains one of Louisville’s finest tables, offering creatively reimagined Southern farm-to-table cuisine in a uniquely artistic atmosphere. The charred octopus appetizer and bison burger are among the city’s modern-era “greatest hits.” $$$$ B Br L D pf RICKY B'S CLUB CAFÉ 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 333-0110. This vaguely Moorish-style building that has housed several restaurants over the years is now a supper club run by the well-known pianist Rick Bartlett. His “world fusion” eclectic menu includes short ribs, fettuccine Alfredo, sea bass, “mystical” fries and Bartlett’s signature Bouncin' Back Burger. Bartlett, along with others, will entertain diners. $$$ D p RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 3015 River Rd., 8975000. Chef John Varanese’s riverside restaurant complex never ceases to evolve. His elegant reimagining of a former boat dealership building befits the always interesting seafood dishes inspired by Nawlins and Charleston, where Varanese began his

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 47

career. There’s also an extensive raw bar, dockside service for boaters, the adjacent Levee Bourbon Lounge, event space upstairs (Savor at River House) for 300 of your closest friends, and to seal the deal, in 2022 River House was named one of the 100 Best Restaurants for Outdoor Dining in America by OpenTable diners. $$$$ Br L D pf

UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 405-8898. The iconic Highlands restaurant re-opens under new ownership, with an updated kitchen and a renovated interior, but with many of the former kitchen crew and staff (including Chef Matt Weber), with a menu re-creating many fan favorites, and some new additions. $$$ L D pf

ROSETTES 730 E. Market St. (Hotel Genevieve), 676-7199. Chef Ashleigh Shanti, a 2020 James Beard Rising Star Chef of the Year semifinalist noted for a culinary outreach rooted in Black foodways and Southern regional cookery, helms the Hotel Genevieve’s primary restaurant, a venue for breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. $$$ B Br L D pfS

VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese’s signature restaurant (he has River House and Levee too) has a slatebacked interior waterfall and a folding front wall that opens in good weather. The lively, international seasonal menu is buttressed by frequent special wine, whiskey or beer dinners. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D pf

SCENE 501 W. Main St., 566-5297. Scene is the latest dining venture in the space at the Kentucky Center for the Arts that has seen a lot of things come and go. Open before shows for drinks and small plate dining served in the fast-casual style. Flatbreads, burgers, pasta dishes, crab cakes; a small but good wine and beer selection and a full bar. $$ D p SOMEWHERE BY CC 1135 Bardstown Rd., 215-8403. CC’s Kitchen, which made a splash downtown, comes to the Highlands, bringing its over-the-top cuisine, “Beast Bloody Mary” (which feeds multitudes), and popular weekend drag brunches for charity. In the words of F&D’s editor-in-chief Marty Rosen, “whimsical idiosyncratic, and just plain fun.” $$$ Br D pf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 581-1234. The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth Street in good weather and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken, cooked to order, quickly became a signature dish. $$$$ D pf THE CHEF’S TABLE VIP CLUB 501 W. Main St. (Kentucky Center for the Arts), 584-7777. The Lexus Lounge provides food (small plates, charcuterie, mini-sandwiches) and bar service two hours prior to performances at the Kentucky Center. The Chef’s Table functions as an all-inclusive pre-show and intermission food and beverage experience, added on to admission tickets for selected shows and events. $$$$ L D p

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

WALKER’S EXCHANGE 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House Hotel), 2721834. The Galt House’s Kentucky-style brasserie, located in the West Tower, is styled after a 19th-century restaurant of the same name. The menu juxtaposes familiar French and American dishes — including classic Southern-style comforts like short rib hand pies and shrimp po-boys. $$$$ B Br L D p WATCH HILL PROPER 11201 River Beauty Loop 230-1982. This new “Premiere Bourbon Club” in Norton Commons houses one of the largest selections of American whiskeys in the world. It is membership-based, but open to the public on a first-come, firstserved basis. The interior has an old-world country club vibe with overstuffed leather seating and warm woods throughout. Chef Michael Crouch, long-time Louisville veteran, helms the menu of shareable small plates. $$$$ D pf

ANOOSH BISTRO 4864 Brownsboro Rd., 690-6585. Anoosh Shariat’s elegant Brownsboro Center space has an eclectic lunch and dinner menu that includes trout provençal, coconut curry tofu, grilled romaine salad, and house-made pastas and risottos. $$ L D p BOARD AND YOU BISTRO & WINE BAR 434 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 913-4109. Look for handcrafted cocktails, charcuterie

boards with meats and cheeses from around the world, entrées, small plates, salads, soups and house-made desserts such as blueberry pie bar, mascarpone cheesecake and a pots de creme flight. $$$$ B L D pf BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. Located in a historic Clifton building, Bourbons Bistro has become one of the prime bourbon bars in the America, with its stock of more than 130 bourbons, including a barrel selection program. It was this almost two-decade devotion to bourbon that has earned Bourbons Bistro “Bar of the Year” in 2022 by Whisky Magazine. Chef Jereme McFarland’s bourbon-inspired, seasonally-influenced menu recently has featured spicy fried oysters, Prince Edward Island mussels and a charcuterie board as appetizers. Entrées include shrimp and grits, and a bourbon chop. Dessert choices include, of course, bourbon bread pudding. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D p CUVÉE WINE TABLE 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 242-5200. Scott Harper and others from the Bristol Bar & Grille organization have made this wine bar and café in the East End a fine stop for after work. Drop in to explore Master Sommelier Harper’s adventurous wine list with tasting pours and small plates of charcuterie, cheeses, salads and snacks from the kitchen. Look for regular casual classes organized on various wine themes. $$ L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informal Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ L D pf GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D pf

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 47

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 48

HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Hammerheads, one of the hippest of Germantown’s restaurants, run by owners Adam Burress and Chase Murcino, serve BBQ beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches and soft shell crab tacos. $ Dpf HAPPY BELLY BISTRO 1020 E. Washington St. (Ten20 Brewery), 835-8202. Fusion food from all culinary backgrounds has characterized Ashlee Northington’s fare as she has progressed from sous chef (Mayan Café, Woodhaven Country Club) through food truck catering, and now to a kitchen inside Butchertown’s Ten20 Brewery. Menu items rotate, but usually include purposeful burgers, tacos and at least one vegan choice. $$ L D pf HARVEY’S 2011 Frankfort Ave., 314-0432. The former Logan Street Market cheesemonger has relocated to Clifton and is now a cheese shop by day and an Australian-themed eatery by night, influenced specifically by Sydney, the country’s multicultural culinary center. $$$ L D p f HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 857-7457. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of small plates and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $$ L D HUGE IMPACT RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 208-2887. This home-style restaurant takes over the spot on Fifth and Chestnut that had for decades been Pesto’s. Salads and sandwiches, fried corn on the cob, and daily specials like crab legs, lamb chops, and ribeye with loaded potatoes and greens. $$ Br L D LOU LOU FOOD + DRINK 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. The original Lou Lou in St. Matthews retains its casual setting and a culinary focus on Nawlins-style Cajun and Creole dishes like gumbo, jambayala and etouffe, while in recent years incorporating Mediterranean and Italian influences, including a strong selection of pizza, pasta and calzones. There’s a solid sandwich list, too, and the muffuletta, gyro and Cajun short rib melt are unique to the St. Matthews location (as of 2023, Lou Lou on Market is open in NuLu). $$ Br L D p LOU LOU ON MARKET 812 E. Market St., 515-9699. NuLu now has its very own Lou Lou, as owner and Louisiana native Jared Matthews, whose holdings in St. Matthews (no relation) include Equus & Jack’s Bourbon Restaurant/Lounge, Black Rabbit speakeasy and The Fox Den, brings much of the suburban Lou Lou’s Nawlins-centric menu (and some of the pizzas, pasta and calzones) downtown, adding show-stoppers like blackened mahi and a low country boil. STAVE is the bourbon bar with live jazz in the basement, and an outdoor French Quarter-styled courtyard with even more live music (jazz, brass and bluegrass) is coming in late Spring. $$$ L D p f LOUVINO 1606 Bardstown Rd., 365-1921, 11400 Main St., 7421456. Steve Ritchie, former CEO at Papa John’s Pizza, has taken over this popular wine bar and small plates restaurant. He is keeping on Executive Chef Tavis Rockwell and his staff, so fans will still be able to enjoy the seasonal shareable small plates menu and clever organization of the wine list. A myriad of wines by the glass are available fresh from their wine-dispensing cruvinet system. $$ Br D pf MERLE’S WHISKEY KITCHEN 122 W. Main St., 290-8888. Tony Palombino’s popular Whiskey Row food and music spot across from the KFC Yum! Center offers live music on a regular basis and a menu that emphasizes tacos and Southern fried chicken. Sides offered include sweet potato casserole, long-cooked green beans and a candied bacon appetizer. 100 bourbons are currently on offer, including handpicked private barrels from Buffalo Trace, Maker’s Mark, Wild Turkey and others. $ L D pf NEIGHBORHOOD SERVICES 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. This casual eating option in the Omni hotel serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and offers relaxed indoor and outdoor dining. Enter from the hotel or street. $$$ B L D pf NOOSH NOSH 4816 Brownsboro Ctr., 205-2888. Named for its founder and former owner, Louisville culinary legend Anoosh Shariat, this family-friendly eatery in Brownsboro Center is built around a rustic stone oven in an open kitchen, offering “homey comfort food” influenced primarily by Mediterranean and Italian cuisine: flatbreads, pizzas, sandwiches, pasta and shareable small plates. $$$ B Br L D pf 48 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 49

NOUVELLE BAR & BOTTLE 214 S. Clay St., 631-9428. This French-style wine bar sells 40+ wines by the glass (in 3-, 6- or 9ounce pours) and 200 to 300 wines by the bottle, focusing on affordable, interesting wines. A selection of beers, ciders, classic cocktails, bourbons and scotches also are available to accompany cheese and charcuterie boards, along with desserts. $ L D pf

THE HUB LOUISVILLE 2235 Frankfort Ave., 777-1505. Clifton has taken to this sprawling modern restaurant, cocktail bar and adult rec center with gusto. The Southern-inspired small plates menu and its specials board of rotating entrees pleases multiple tastes.

The bar boasts a big rum and tequila selection. $$ D pf

NUMBER 15 121 W. Main St., 526-5691. “Drink, Dance & Discover” at this unique multi-floor Kentucky-themed entertainment complex on Whiskey Row (there’s chef-driven food, too), as brought to you by a holding company with similarly-styled social halls scattered across America. Vive la difference! $$ Br L D p

THE PINE ROOM 6325 River Rd., 528-4422. Augusta Holland is behind the modern incarnation of this classic Prospect restaurant, in the space that most recently was Cast Iron Steakhouse. Start with, perhaps, the chicken liver lettuce wraps, or sweet potato falafel. Then go for the blackened pork chop or the grain bowl. The buttermilk fried chicken is a dining favorite. $$$ Br D pf

OFF THE RAILS TASTING ROOM AND WINE DEPOT 2118 Bruce Ave., 822-0738. Enjoy three favorite adult beverages at this Buechel winery – wine, craft brews, and bourbon. The wines made by owners Kenny and Denise Jewell include a Cabernet and Reisling, and several fruit blends. The beers and Bourbons are from all over Kentucky. $$ Br D pf

THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. In this Clifton honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music, all on vinyl, is the “Bakersfield sound”.The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has happy fans crowding in mosty nights.

Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$$$ Br L D pf

P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707.

This Arizona-based, Chinese-themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinese-style dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D pf

VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub.

The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D pf

SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 630-2012. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ LDp THE CHAMPAGNERY AT ARCHITYPE GALLERY 1764 Frankfort Ave., 896-8050. *Closed for the Winter.

THE FAT LAMB 2011 Grinstead Dr., 409-7499. The first of Chef/owner Dallas McGarity’s dining properties, this comfortable, classy Highlands bistro serves lunch and dinner, focusing on small plates such as onion and chive hushpuppies, lamb meatballs, curryseared salmon, tandoori-seared scallops and ricotta ghnocchi with truffled mushroom cream. $$$$ L D pf

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

WILTSHIRE AT THE SPEED 2035 S. Third St., 634-2976. This sunny, elegant café at the Speed Museum is currently open only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The often-changing seasonal menu currently offers salmon and dill chowder, a breakfast croissant, and a vegetable frittata. $$ B Br L pf

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4666. This franchise concept from the Florida-based Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D p

BRENDON’S CATCH 23 505 S. Fourth St. (Embassy Suites), 9093323. This downtown upscale seafood restaurant’s fish menu depends on what has come in fresh that day. The 2 and 3 tier seafood towers are a fun shared appetizer for a group. Other choices include lobster mac ’n’ cheese, cornmeal-crusted salmon, and wild-caught grouper and sea bass. There is a substantial steak selection as well. $$$ D p CADILLACS CHICKEN AND FISH 7105 Fegenbush Ln., 287-3437.

This family-operated food truck has found a permanent space, where you can find catfish, codfish plates, chicken tenders and fish tacos, with simple sides of fries, coleslaw, baked beans, mac and cheese, onion rings and hushpuppies. $$ L D p CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS RIVERSIDE GRILLE 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pf CUNNINGHAM’S CREEKSIDE 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625.

One of the longest-lived restaurants in the city, Cunningham’s has had several incarnations since 1870, and now pulls in old timers and new fans at its Harrod’s Creek location. There you can find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this long-time favorite. $ Br L D pf THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D pf HUNGRY PELICAN 5412 Bardstown Rd., 239-7145. The sole remaining representative of a quite popular chain still keeps up the tradition. The cooks and servers are old-timers who understand the intricacies of getting perfectly fried seafood to customers in timely fashion. Generously-filled rolled oysters, too. $$ L D pf JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D pf

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 49

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 50

KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made Kingfish a popular favorite for many years.

Aficionados of rolled oysters and frog legs can find both here, as well as a large selection of fried and broiled seafood, as dinners and sandwiches. Both locations boast river views. $$ L D pf MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. This popular riverside restaurant has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818.

The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work.

Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D pf OSTERIA ITALIAN SEAFOOD 1211 Herr Ln., (Westport Village), 423-5822. Restaurateur Jared Matthews lovingly recast the longrunning Napa into an East End “osteria” (in Italy, a tavern or roadhouse with food and wine). Italian-American dishes headline lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch: traditional pastas (Spaghetti Vongole, Cacio e Pepe), soups and salads, and varied oceanic treats, including Seared Scallops, Halibut Agrodolce, and Shrimp Fra Diavolo. Filet mignon, wagyu and grilled steakhouse chicken provide protein balance, and there’s a full range of shareable appetizers—and nothing (nothing!) beats Tiramisu and Tawny Port. $$$ Br L D pf OUTCAST FISH & OYSTER BAR 207 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 812-770-4315. New Albany’s popular The Exchange and Brooklyn & The Butcher are joined by a seafood-themed restaurant reflecting owner Ian Hall’s lifelong love of South Carolina-style seafood specialists. The elegantly remodeled space features an interactive oyster bar and an atmospheric outdoor patio. The happy-hourpriced oysters are a bargain. $$$$ D p PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer, with no frills, this Jeffersontown tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D f RED LOBSTER 4639 Outer Loop, 964-9647, 986 Breckenridge Ln., 899-3334, 951 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 812-2850444. Consistent quality and moderate prices have maintained this seafood chain’s popularity in the casual dining category since its founding more than fifty years ago. Periodic promotions please repeat customers and draw new folks into the fold. $$$ L D pf RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 2450366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D pf SAM'S SEAFOOD & GRILL 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 966-6940. The choices here include jack salmon, frog legs, grouper and red snapper, as well as catfish, tilapia and shrimp. The fish-averse can fill up on chicken wings or gizzards or a range of meat-filled sandwiches. $$ L D SEAFOOD HEAVEN 600 E. Broadway, 290-7399. A reclaimed fastfood building doing double duty as a seafood market (with grocery basics) and takeout-only seafood restaurant, Seafood Heaven emphasizes healthier baked and steamed options and sides. $$ L D SHARK’S SEAFOOD 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 450-5775. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish - white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon - to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. $ L D SINCLAIR SMOKED SALMON 2208 Dundee Rd., 548-1203. You can find just verlasso salmon here, in various sizes of fillets, hot smoked over hickory, using a process developed by a hobbyist turned weekend seafood entrepreneur. Order ahead and takeaway only. $$$$ THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. This fried-fish eatery has been popular in the St. Matthews neighborhood since 1983.

The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f THREE BROTHERS 2001 Seventh Street Rd., 409-7447. The menu of this Algonquin neighborhood fish house includes Chicago-style fried perch, cod, salmon and catfish, the best seller. $ L D 50 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

SEAFOOD BOILS PIER 17 CAJUN SEAFOOD 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9857.

Pier 17 introduced Louisville to the Vietnamese-Cajun fusion concept of Asian-spiced seafood boils (which originated on the Texas-Louisiana coast); in addition to the now familiar meals in boil-in bags, the menu offers fried fish, soft-shell crab, oysters, shrimp, po’ boys and gumbo, with rice, fries, slaw and other sides. $$$ L D pf SEAFOOD LADY 601 E. Jefferson St., 907-5251. The lure here is fresh fish, shrimp and crab legs brought up from the Gulf Coast, prepared with Cajun spices, and served simply and relatively cheaply. $$ L D f STORMING CRAB 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 590-3773, 4801 Outer Loop, 999-9998. Here you can get market price seafood boils in several spice levels and flavors (crab house Cajun, garlic butter and plain) to take home or dump on paper-covered tables to eat as they should be eaten. Other Cajun dishes too, like gumbo and crawfish etouffé. $$$ L D

BOB'S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The signature restaurant located off the lobby in the Omni Hotel offers refined service and a decor focused on American thoroughbred racing. A steak menu offers seven prime selections, from ribeye to filet to 28-oz. porterhouse. Seafood, too (crab cakes, scampi, lobster tails), and sumptuous desserts. $$$$ D p BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 290-8220. This Knoxville-based company’s first satellite location has been a downtown hit. A churrascaria works like this: You choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf BROOKLYN & THE BUTCHER 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN. 590-2646. Ian Hall of The Exchange Pub + Kitchen opened this steakhouse in a renovated historic hotel with lots of cool touches: black and white tiles on floor and walls, an open kitchen and a vintage bar counter from an old local Woolworth’s store. The bar program emphasizes bourbon, Scotch and craft beers. The menu includes fresh seafood, small plates and lots of beef — New York strip, bone-in ribeye, flat iron steaks — all as locally sourced as possible. $$$ D pf CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader also operates this riverside eatery where the kitchen cooks steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices. The ambience is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D pf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3847623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574, 3500 St. Joseph Rd., New Albany, 725-7166. These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D pf CONNORS STEAK & SEAFOOD 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 8121122. The Hurstbourne corridor (ex-Mimi’s Cafe) is the home of the first Louisville location for this purveyor of aged, mesquitegrilled steaks and seafood, with pastas, salads and sandwiches filling out the menu. $$$$ L D p DEL FRISCO’S 101 Whittington Pkwy., 897-7077. This long-time St. Matthews steakhouse resumed operation and has settled in at the former location of Z's Oyster Bar & Steakhouse. The high-end menu offers steaks, a variety of surf ’n’ turf selections, seafood and, of course, its famous spinach dish, green phunque. $$$$ D p f GORDON RAMSAY STEAK 11999 Casino Center Dr. SE (Caesars Southern Indiana), Elizabeth, IN, 866-676-7463. Caesars welcomes the renowned, multi-starred Michelin chef’s signature steakhouse concept, emphasizing dry-aged beef, lamb, seafood, and appetizers like smoked beef tartare and Kurobuta (“black hog”) pork belly. Ramsay’s famed Beef Wellington and Sticky Toffee Pudding are both on the menu, accompanied by an extensive wine and bourbon lists, and hand-crafted cocktails. $$$$ D p

JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 584-0102. From its 2006 debut, the Cincinnati restaurateur’s Louisville eatery has become a local culinary standard-bearer, renowned for a glittery bar, urban sensibility and top-notch service. Dry-aged USDA prime steaks and a concise selection of wagyu beef are complemented by seafood dishes, sushi rolls and a raw bar; a multimillion-dollar interior renovation in 2023 revamped the existing floorplan and added a 50-seat private dining room. $$$$ L D p LE MOO 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. Restauranteur Kevin Grainger has created a lively and amusing space with a decor that delights in lots of steel, neon and velvet. The menu has some unusual choices: a filet “flight” of choice, prime and wagyu beef; sliced loaded baked potato; drunk-cut fries; chicken and waffles; and drinks like the Moohatan or the Le Mule. The Sunday drag brunches have become a thing. $$ Br L D pf LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009., 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D p LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D p MALONE'S 4370 Summit Plaza Dr., 618-0702. This Lexington-based restaurant serves lunch and dinner. Menu choices include various cuts of prime steaks, fish and seafood, including sushi, and house favorites, such as bottomless salad and bread. $$$ L D p f MATT WINN STEAKHOUSE 700 Central Ave. (Churchill Downs) 636-4888. This premier steakhouse restaurant at Churchill Downs is a stunning and extensive dining space, with exquisite food and a memorable view over the landmark track and infield. Open all year, not just during racing meets, serving Maryland-style crab cakes and deviled eggs with lobster and salmon roe; charcuterie boards; selections from the raw bar; and entrées of prime beef, pork chops, and trout, among others. $$$$ D pf MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This below-ground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D p NOSTALGIC 1306 Bardstown Rd., 999-2560. A themed Highlands chophouse next to the apartment-hotel Bellwether, from the owner of Naïve and her chef, with menu items and drinks inspired by nostalgia for childhood edibles (hamburger helper, potato skins, hot pockets) and potables like a cereal milk Alexander and circus animal cracker shot. $$$$ D p f OLIVER’S CHOP HOUSE & BOURBON BAR 4520 Poplar Level Rd., 961-7686. The former Louisville Downs harness racing track, resurrected by Churchill Downs as Derby City Gaming Hotel, boasts this classic steakhouse experience named after jockey Oliver Lewis, winner of the Kentucky Derby in 1875, with steaks, seafood, desserts and an Old Fashioned (or Pinot Noir for the grape-inclined). $$$$ D p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 896-9234. A local favorite since 1958 and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steakhouses in town. $$$$ D pf REPEAL OAK-FIRED STEAKHOUSE 101 W. Main St. (Hotel Distil), 716-7372. The main restaurant at the new Hotel Distil on Whiskey Row fires the steaks over used bourbon barrel staves. If steak isn’t your dish, check out the sole meunière, the truffled spaghetti, the well-stocked raw bar, or grab a blue crab omelet at lunch. As you might expect, the spirits list is deep. $$$$ B Br L D p RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026.

The long-standing Louisville location of this New Orleans-based

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 51

international chain is perched atop the 16-floor Kaden Tower.

Ruth’s Chris serves excellent steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D p

concept, Grale Goods, will open next door to Holy Grale in early 2022, selling beer and other foodstuffs. The new concept, Gralehaus and Holy Grale are collectively known as "The Grales.” $$ B L f

STEAK & BOURBON 1321 Herr Ln., 708-2196. Ole Restaurant Group has branched out with this affordably-priced premium steakhouse. In addition to the signature 24 oz. cowboy cut Angus ribeye (aged a minimum of 30 days) the menu offers pan-roasted chicken, grilled Verlasso salmon, steak & cheese hand pies, Maryland-style crab cakes and carrot cake with bourbon caramel icing. Try the House Punch or choose from over 100 bourbons, including a reserve list. $$$ L D pf

H. M. FRANK'S AN O'SHEA'S PUBLIC HOUSE 355 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1174. Upon gutting the interior and rebuilding the facade of this 1880’s-era building, the original identity of H.M. Frank’s Dry Goods store was uncovered, a discovery that has given this O’Shea’s outpost its name. The bar is made from repurposed barn wood, there’s an event space upstairs, and upscale bar food is created by Chef John Knightly. $$ L D pf

STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ Br D p TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600, 13321 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0085, 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 897-5005. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ LDp THE CAPITAL GRILLE 7600 Shelbyville Rd., 653-4373. Dry-aged steaks (curated by an on-site butcher), seafood, shellfish and an extensive wine list, including rare and allocated selections, are hallmarks of the high end at this Darden Restaurants property on the north side of Oxmoor Mall, which also boasts private event space and an in-house events coordinator to help with patrons’ planning. $$$$ L D p

CORNER 102 W. Main St., 583-1888. Corner is the bar and restaurant attached to the chic, contemporary Aloft Hotel downtown. The emphasis here is on the bar, with a wine and cocktail menu longer and more creative than the food side. Still, there are solid bar munchies, from dips and deviled eggs to sandwiches, salads and tacos. $$ B D pf

HAUCK'S CORNER 1000 Goss Ave., 384-9374. Hauck’s Handy Store, a humble corner grocery, closed in 2019 after 107 years as a Schnitzelburg neighborhood icon. The late George Hauck is revered locally for reviving the tradition of Dainty, an immigrant German street game. Hauck’s Corner has now reopened with a bar and restaurant in the comprehensively remodeled building, with voluminous outdoor seating. Chef Allan Rosenberg developed the new menu —which proudly proclaims the return of the famous Hauck’s bologna sandwich. $$ L D pf THE MANHATTAN PROJECT 2101 Frankfort Ave., 749-8925. This upscale gastropub has expanded, with a main room now looking out on the lively Cifton streetscape. The new menu includes short rib sliders, chicken and waffles and four kinds of fries. Mac ’n’ cheese has its own menu section listing almost a dozen possible adds ons—from bacon to crab to pork cheek to grilled chicken.

TMP has become popular for its brunch, tacos & trivia Tuesdays, and the original space in the rear is a great sports watching or special party venue. $$ Br L D pf WORLD OF BEER 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 690-4280. This Floridabased chain serves a wide variety of craft beers and sports a tavern menu that is a few notches above the usual bar food: $$ L D pf

80/20 @ KAELIN’S 1801 Newburg Rd., 200-8020. The original Kaelin’s, with its dubious history of inventing the cheeseburger, underwent several incarnations before current owners Bill

DuBourg and Matt Staggs revived its nostalgic charm. There’s an indoor/outdoor rectangular bar, a fenced-in wrap-around patio and an adjacent malt shop and ice cream parlor. The restaurant menu features burgers, of course, as well as salads, sandwiches and dinner entrées. $$ L D pf BUFFALO WILD WINGS 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 10206 Westport Rd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464, 4917 Outer Loop, 964-5803. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D pf BUNZ RESTAURANT 712 Brent St. (The Village Market).Gourmet smash burgers, a selection of sandwiches, fries, onion rings and all the fixings (Bunz relocated to Village Market after 11 years in the Highlands). $$ L D pf THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485.

The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D CHICKEN SALAD CHICK 12009 Shelbyville Rd., 842-4341, 7706 Bardstown Rd., 653-0050, 1520 Veterans Pky., Jeffersonville IN, 504-2360. The name says it all: here you can find a baker’s dozen styles of chicken salad, as a scoop or a sandwich, plus pimento cheese sandwiches, soups and salads. $$ L D f CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9448100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name.

Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D pf

DOC'S BOURBON ROOM 129 W. Main St., 742-2449. Doc Crow’s has taken over the space next door to create what they say is “the nation's biggest whiskey bar.” It carries thousands of Bourbons and other whiskeys, served as flights, tastes, pours and cocktails. Menu items include beef tartare, lamb flatbread, fingerling poutine and fresh-baked pretzels. A coffee bar is open early in the morning. $$$ Dp DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR & RESTAURANT 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hole stocks 150-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. Well-priced bar food like biscuit sandwiches, tacos and Frito Pie make for a quick, satisfying lunch.

Bluegrass music several times a week too. $$ L D pf EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building such a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu that he has had to expand his dining room and patio. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes housemade ginger ale. $$ L D pf FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list bring in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other wellpriced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D f GALAXIE 732 E. Market St., 690-6595. The guys behind RYE just down the street now have the Green Building space for a bar dedicated to moderately priced drinks ($7 cocktails are what they are shooting for) and a bar menu of “international-inspired street food,” which was described as “easy to take with you,” so you can nosh as you imbibe. $$ L D pf GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 857-7457. Gralehaus has fully reopened its cafe for coffee, breakfast and lunch and a new

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023

51

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 52

CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001, 1555 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0810, 11801 Interchange Dr., 6180838. When the signature item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. $ L D f DIXIE CHICKEN 1785 W. Oak St., 690-2748, 3947 Dixie Hwy., 448-2102. A growing fried chicken spot that serves up honest fried chicken and good, standard sides at reasonable prices. $$ L D DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 583-3828. This neighborhood eatery, an institution that goes back more than 70 years, hasn’t changed much. It opens early, stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D f FAMILY TIES 1030 Cecil Ave., 907-6548. This West End convenience store also has a vibrant carryout business offering a family-friendly menu of burgers, wings, rib tips, hot dogs and brats. $ B L D FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702, 4226 Shelbyville Rd., 891-8848, 4917 Outer Loop, 822-3702, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1027. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big smoky kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GET IT ON A BUN AT BOOTY’S 822 State St., New Albany IN, 292-3800. Another successful food truck finds a permanent home.

Booty’s made their name with the Booty Dog, Booty Burger and chili but the menu now ranges from jerk chicken to pulled pork on brioche to a meatloaf cupcake. $$ L D GRIND BURGER KITCHEN 829 E. Market St., 851-7333. Owners Liz and Jesse Huot are firmly established now in NuLu, giving them much-needed parking, as well as a full bar. In addition to their signature burgers, the Huots have a chopped chicken sandwich, an “adult” grilled cheese made with Brie and Gruyere and a couple of salad choices. $$ L D f GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN 117 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 509-0146. This fried chicken chain grew from the Bonner family’s outlet in tiny Mason, Tennessee establishes a presence in the East End, daring chicken-loving Louisvillians to compare Gus’s closely guarded spice combination with the slightly more famous one touted by Colonel Sanders. $$$ L D HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2723 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4097004, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818, 6600 Bardstown Rd., 290-5679. Burgers, dogs, and fries with a baseball theme (meals for kids are called Bat Boy Baskets), and a fielder’s choice of options for dressing your burger, are highlights at this popular local chain. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 4494194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its longstanding reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D pf I LOVE POLLO 243 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 409-6287. Ernesto Rivera and Alfredo Garcia’s popular I Love Tacos concept migrates to fowl territory with this eatery featuring adobo rotisserie chicken prepared according to a diverse selection of Latin-influenced recipes. $$ L D pf INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-9099, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 4590 Dixie Hwy., 447-4856, 4419 Cane Run Rd., 448-1109, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 969-5352. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D INKREDIBLES BURGERS & SHAKES 1506 Dixie Hwy., 618-1217.

Angus burgers, chicken sandwiches, hand-spun milkshakes and express breakfast items are among the options at this family-owned eatery housed in a former chain restaurant structure in the Algonquin neighborhood. $$ B L D f JAGGERS RESTAURANT 6464 Dutchmans Ln., 242-9311, 10690 Westport Rd., 576-4867, 13801 English Villa Dr., 768-0203.

Louisville’s homegrown Texas Roadhouse chain created this fastcasual, made-to-order restaurant offshoot, offering hand-breaded 52 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

chicken sandwiches and tenders, burgers and sandwiches, fresh salads and scratch-made dressings, shakes and sweets. $$ L D f JOELLA’S HOT CHICKEN 3400 Frankfort Ave., 895-2235, 13401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1111, 1225 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 913-7555. You can find Nashville-style hot chicken – medium, hot and hotter – at all three locations. House-made sides local craft beers and wine and fresh-squeezed lemonade as well. $$ L D pf KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013 $ L D MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 384-4834, 113 S. Seventh St., 749-6451. The unusual combination in the name sparks immediate interest; the consistently excellent offerings of both shellfish and meat patties keeps satisfied customers coming back. Choose from six different sauces for the mussels, and 12 clever twists on burgers. The downtown venue has an expanded menu and a handsome outdoor courtyard. L D pf

THE CHILLBURGER 500 LaFollette Station Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8283; 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 725-9157. These two Southern Indiana burger places tout freshly-ground USDA Choice beef, fresh-cut fries and milk shakes and sundaes from hormone-free dairy. Chicken and fish sandwiches, too. $ L D f THE EAGLE FOOD & BEER HALL 1314 Bardstown Rd., 498-8420, 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center). Ranked by the Travel Channel as being among America’s “10 Most Hype-Worthy Fried Chicken Restaurants,” The Eagle house-brines and hand-dredges its chicken and unspools numerous comfort-food accompaniments, including five-cheese macaroni and house-made biscuits, along with an extensive roster of sandwiches and salads.

Building on its inaugural Louisville portal in the Highlands on restaurant row, The Eagle now has a second location at Oxmoor Center near Topgolf. $$$ L D pf

OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fastfood history remains in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisville-based chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L

THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445, 3038 Hunsinger Ln., 618-0106, 5210 Dixie Hwy., 409-7112. Wing Zone, with locations scattered across the eastern U.S., excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Tame to Nuclear Habanero. Burgers, fried shrimp and sides as well. $LDf

OSKAR'S SLIDER BAR 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 395-9010. Jesse and Liz Huot (Grind Burger Kitchen) expand on their burger concept with a new slider bar. Oskar’s (the name inspired by the Huots’ son, Oskar) offers over a dozen slider choices – chicken, fried fish and pork belly in addition to the expected ground beef miniburgers. Fries and salads, too. $$ L D p

VIRTUE BAR & LOUNGE 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 290-0830.

Relocated to the Clifton neighborhood from downtown, and still offering regular nightclub-style entertainment, Virtue’s kitchen has been expanded and features turkey legs, catfish nuggets and chicken wings (with a wide variety of sauces and dry rubs). $$ D pf

RAILBIRDS HOT CHICKEN 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. Grab some wings or jumbo tenders at your choice of heat level or other non-spicy chicken dishes and sides like fries and slaws before you head back to the games. $ L D RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040, 6811 Bardstown Rd., 654-7737, 5212 Dixie Hwy., 742-9035, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 822-1188, 1905 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9441. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. Six locations in town now, all offering simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 3398616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well-regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations and S. Indiana. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D pf ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 3840330, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 618-1128, 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 708-2798. With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain is now spreading its franchise reach across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its six local properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D pf ROYALS HOT CHICKEN 736 E. Market St., 919-7068. Ryan Rogers first pressure-fries his chicken, then, in the Nashville style, blankets it with a paste of oil and spices delivering mild to “Gonzo” heat. If you’re not in the mood for bird, salads and even Southern-fried tofu are on the menu. $$L D f SIX FORKS BURGER CO. 1039 Ash St., 565-9750. In Germantown, a takeout-only purveyor of burgers (beef as well as “those other meats”), accessorized with a range of toppings, sauces and cheeses; hot dogs and Polish sausage; fried chicken and “big ass” grilled cheese sandwiches; with vegetable side dishes, chili and fries. $ L Dp SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport) 363-2526. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has three Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open more area locations. $ L D f STEAK ‘N SHAKE 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak ‘n Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D THE CHICKEN BOX 5905 Terry Rd., 618-0430. This Pleasure Ridge Park restaurant offers six flavors of wings, all cooked to order: buffalo, extra hot, bbq, lemon pepper, hot garlic Parmesan and lemon pepper hot. The waffle biscuit has impressed fans. $ L D f

WALDO’S CHICKEN & BEER 10700 Meeting St., 434-4035.

Where’s Waldo? In Norton Commons, where the Endeavor group (Big Bad Breakfast, LouVine) has introduced this Southern-style, chicken-led concept, with fried fowl “on the bone, on a bun, in a bowl, or in a basket,” and beer solemnly promised to be cold. $$ L D pf WEEK-END BURGERS 5600 National Tpke., 994-8215. Another food truck business has gone off the wheels. Week-End Burgers boast their “burgers are the way burgers used to be made years, years ago, good, tasty & messy).” Philly sandwiches, too, and sides and desserts. $ L D f WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000, 2007 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7171. This Texas-based chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D p WNB FACTORY 1019 Bardstown Rd.. Signifying “wings & burgers,” the Atlanta-based franchise’s mission statement is “to make the best darn wings & craft burgers you’ve ever had.” The menu also offers a variety of chicken sandwiches, cheesesteaks and combos, and even the stray veggie burger. $$$ L D f W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd. 897-9684.

Founded in 1983 and a perennial Louisville restaurant award winner, this independent purveyor cooks 100% Black Angus burgers to order, serves them on house-baked buns, and provides a 40-plus “build your own” bar with condiments and toppings.

Homemade pies and cookies? Yep, those too. $$ L D ZAXBY’S (8 Locations) There are now 9 outlets in Louisville and Southern Indiana. The casual dining chain cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wingz and fingerz - that sort of thing. $ L D

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L f ANGIE’S CAFE 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 9200831. Angie’s cooks up a solid breakfast menu – eggs, omelets, breakfast sandwiches, pancakes – and creates hearty hot and cold sandwiches for lunch, at pleasantly retro prices. $ B L AROMA CAFÉ & BAR Caesars Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866676-7463. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $$$ B L D p ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 4269191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel.

Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B D p

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 53

BETTER BLEND NUTRITION 4149 Shelbyville Rd., 530-5452.

Numerous Louisville-area branches are projected for this Kentucky-based “health and wellness” franchise, which offers a plethora of smoothies (or “blends”), bowls and other menu items built around ingredients low in sugar, fat, carbohydrates and calories. $$ B L D BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800.

Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ BLDf BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 3672251. $$$ L D p BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. Named after the owner’s dear, departed beagle, Boomer’s is a popular, low-key downtown deli in the heart of the museum district. Sandwiches, burger and fries, homemade chocolate cookies, and good coffee. $ L BORSALINO CAFÉ & DELI 3825 Bardstown Rd., 807-5325. This Buechel store is somewhere between a coffee shop, a fancy bakery and a deli. You can stop in for your morning coffee and sweet bun to go, buy a cake for dessert or take away a stuffed pita for lunch. $BLDf CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at this friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D pf CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch or supper. $$ B L D f CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot where owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups,

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

as well as hot entrées such as lasagna and Brie and cranberrystuffed chicken. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CHRISTI'S CAFÉ 12810 Dixie Hwy., 937-3110. This familyoperated restaurant in Valley Station serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, all the dishes you know you want: omelets, hotcakes, wings, chili, bean soup, giant burgers, open-faced roast beef with mashed potatoes and liver and onions. $ B L D CLEAN EATZ 3565 Springhurst Blvd., 653-7865. This outpost of a Wilmington, NC franchise, the first of three planned for the area, houses a café, where customers can dine or collect weekly meal plans featuring health-conscious prepared meals that can be reheated at home. $$ L D CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. This familyowned and operated, classier-than-the-average-strip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 30 years. The Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlic-basil chicken pizza) and dishes like the Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D pf CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488.

Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual quality café fare in this comfortable frame house in Clifton. Three variations on chicken salad are available, 8 different green salads, 8 hot sandwiches (many with cute names: The Big Dirty, The Guido). Vegetarian choices and cheesecake or cookies, too. $$ L D CUP OF JOY 2507 Bank St., 919-9074. This coffee shop and café, located in a former bar, is a project of Haven Ministries and run mostly by volunteers. According to founder Esther Lyon, the food is “homemade, down-home cooking … biscuits and gravy, homemade potato soup, chicken and dumplings, turnovers, pastries.” Nothing on the menu tops $5. $ B L DERBY CAFÉ EXPRESS 704 Central Ave. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 637-1111. You can get both grab-and-go eats, and made-to-order breakfast and lunch items before or after your visit to the Derby Museum. At breakfast, choose from hot and cold breakfast items, fresh pastries and kolache. The lunch menu offers

deli-style sandwiches, paninis, soups, salads, Derby Pie (of course) and Benedictine. There is also a full bar. $ B L pf HOT BOX EATERY 438 W. Market St., 822-3995. Try their fresh soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps and daily specials. Menu choices include a Brie and salami wrap, Indonesian chicken peanut satay, pork schnitzel, a turkey club wrap and a gyro — in other words, an appealingly diverse selection. $ L I LOVE JUICE BAR 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 690-9938, 10512 Meeting St., 630-2051. There are two locally-owned franchises of this regional chain, situated in Middletown and Norton Commons.

Vegan and gluten-free juices and smoothies are the house specialties, but there is a full array of smoothie bowls (acai, pitaya and pb&j, among others). $$ B L J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf JW CAFÉ & BAKERY 2301 Terra Crossing Blvd., 907-5248. The bakery part of this East End spot offers scones and cupcakes and other expected bakery treats. The café part has a variety of lunch items, including Korean specialties. The smoked salmon salad has won fans quickly. $ B L f KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities PLAYA BOWLS 4600 Shelbyville Rd. (Shelbyville Road Plaza)., 8821100., 12939 Shelbyville Rd. Two Jersey Shore surfing enthusiasts have parlayed their love of acai, pitaya, chia, coconut bowls and

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 53

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 54

smoothies into a nationwide chain of health food restaurants, with the first of two Louisville shops open in St. Matthews and Middletown. $$ B L D PURE BLENDZ 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 640-8668.

This kiosk at the Logan Street Market offers pure, unprocessed foods in the form of superfood smoothie bowls, avocado toast, kombucha, lemonade tea fogs and more. $ L D f PURRFECT DAY CAT CAFÉ 1741 Bardstown Rd., 916-5051. One room is a wine bar with snacks and small bites provided by local bakeries. The other room, by reservation, is a Cat Room, populated by cats needing homes, provided by the Humane Society. Bring in a drink, and play and cuddle with kitties — and maybe take one home. $ B L D p RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700.

The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands, Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, where you can find Cuban, Jamaican, Greek, and Middle Eastern dishes at moderate prices. A weekend brunch and late-night hours add to the draw. $$ L D pf RED HOG 2622 Frankfort Ave., 384-0795. Kit Garrett and Bob Hancock, owners of Blue Dog Bakery, now also have this butcher shop and café offering artisan cured meats in Crescent Hill.

Pasture-raised pork, beef, bison, lamb and poultry are available.

The café serves small plates and pizzas fired from their woodburning oven. The bar offers craft cocktails and 12 beer taps. $$ L D pf SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 893-5118. This perennially popular little East End eatery, long a go-to choice for breakfast and lunch, now provides dinner on Friday nights too. $ Br L D f STARLIGHT CAFÉ 19816 Huber Rd., Starlight IN, 923-9813. This café in the Winery building at Huber Farm provides light lunch items such as seasonal soups, Rueben sandwiches, a turkey club, chicken salad or artisan flatbread pizza. Dine inside in the dining room or outside on the patio that overlooks the 550-acre farm.

Huber wines and cocktails made from spirits distilled on the premises available too. $$ L D pf TAYLOR’S CEREAL BOWL KITCHEN 438 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 812-260-1161. Taylor’s pursues an utterly unique mission among area ice cream and sweets shops, providing a safe environment suitable for autistic and neurodivergent children, complete with games, sensory toys and 3D printers. $$ L TERRI LYNN'S CAFÉ AND CATERING 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, (812) 923-1503.After two decades in the catering business, owner Terri Lynn Doyle now has a brick-and-mortar café in downtown New Albany, in the space that had recently been Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café. The menu features Terri Lynn’s staples such as salads, baked goods and sandwiches. $$ B L f THE CAFÉ 711 Brent St., 589-9191. The transition is complete. The Café is now across the street from its original Paristown location, in a newly renovated, airy space, part of the Paristown Pointe development. The menu, with its complement of hearty breakfast and lunch dishes, remains the same. $$ B Br L D pf THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Since 1975 this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133.

Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L THE SILLY AXE CAFÉ 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 2907197. Silly Axe (a play on celiac disease) is a completely gluten-free and peanut-free dining concept. After a three-year residency at Douglass Loop, owner/chef Angela Pike has moved the restaurant to shared space at the Logan Street Market in Shelby Park, where the emphasis is on celiac-appropriate chicken dishes, though not excluding vegan and vegetarian options. $$ L D pf THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. Sandwiches named for artists and rock stars (from

54 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

Georgia O’Keefe to Eddie Van Halen — but where is Captain Beefheart?) are the draw at this longstanding cult favorite Lyndon daytime eatery, along with four or five soups (and chili) from a list of 145, prepared fresh daily, and homemade desserts. $ L THE TABLE 1800 Portland Ave., 708-2505. This West End nonprofit, social entrepreneurship experiment serves locally-grown, fresh food and operates under a pay-what-you-can model. Pay suggested prices if you can, or if not, contribute your time. Or donate more to “pay it forward.” The menu offers soups, salads, sandwiches and sides. $ L D TOP HAT CAFÉ 1300 Muhammad Ali Blvd., 583-8822. Located inside the Old Walnut Plaza, this neighborhood coffee shop and breakfast and lunch café, named after an historic West End nightclub, is a project of the Louisville Central Community Center, in its effort to connect the Russell neighborhood to its past and to encourage fellowship and neighborhood networking.$ B L D TROPICAL SMOOTHIE CAFÉ 13128 Shelbyville Rd., 290-9903, 5023 Mud Ln., 709-5420, 4114 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-4386. A full range of smoothies accompanies an extensive menu of flatbreads, wraps quesadillas, and other health-minded menu items, courtesy of this national chain’s “born on a beach” ethos. $$ BLD VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-4338. $ L D WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community re-entry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts for under $5; a lunch buffet is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too. It’s a dogooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 5818561, 6301 Moonseed St., 581-8560, 605 W. Main St., 749-1683.

Caterer/ Restaurateur Susan Hershberg’s popular bakery and café operation now has three locations, with the opening of a downtown café in the former Atlantic No. 5 space. At all three you can find artisanal breads, scones and croissants, full breakfasts (Tuscan egg sandwich, breakfast grain bowl, frittata, smoked salmon plate) as well as sandwiches, side salads and paninis. $ B L

BREAKFAST BIG BAD BREAKFAST 984 Barret Ave., 289-8227, 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 709-5420. The buildings known locally as the Lynn’s Paradise Café and (Dean) Corbett’s: An American Place have become part of the regional chain Big Bad Breakfast. The extensive breakfast and lunch menus include Creole omelet (filled with shrimp and andouille), chicken and waffles, and huevos rancheros made with grits, chicken sausage and saucy black beans. $$ B Br pf BISCUIT BELLY 900 E. Main St., 409-5729, 3723 Lexington Rd., 690-2945, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 208-8722. Chad and Lauren Coulter, of LouVino fame, own this breakfast- and lunch-oriented eatery. You’ll find over-sized biscuit sandwiches filled with chicken, country ham or brisket; oatmeal, hash and Nutella toast, as well as an adult beverage program that includes beers and coffee-inflected cocktails. There’s non-alcoholic coffee, too, and eggs however you like them. $$ B Br L pf BREAKFAST AF 1008 Goss Ave., 365-4466. As what? Well, start with the owners of the Hauck’s Corner bar nearby in Schnitzelburg, then consider that breakfast can be late at night or early in the morning depending when one arrives in bed. From Tteokgalbi (a Korean short rib patty with egg) to a cornmeal pancake with pulled pork, expect “dawning” creativity. $$ B Br L pf CON HUEVOS 2339 Frankfort Ave., 384-3027, 4938 US-42, 3843744, 400 S. Second St. (Omni Hotel), 2125 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy, 384-2432, 10639 Meeting St., 290-4123. The hugely popular Mexican breakfast and lunch restaurant continues to expand to meet demand, adding its fifth location in the very epicenter of Norton Commons. Choose from huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, breakfast-style enchiladas (with eggs, of course), frijoladas, churros, molletes and more, and with tortas and tacos at lunch.

Expect a wait on weekends – but worth it. $ B Br L EGGS OVER FRANKFORT 2712 Frankfort Ave., 709-4452.

Husband and wife team Jackson and Cortney Nave have creatively refurbished this Crescent Hill space into a “very traditional”

breakfast spot. Its menu includes omelets, eggs Benedict, waffles and oatmeal, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. $ B Br L HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 883-0203. You can order breakfast anytime at both locations, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes. $$$ B L D MORNING FORK 1722 Frankfort Ave., 830-9500. The breakfast and brunch concept from Chef/Owner Geoffrey Heyde has found firm footing in Lower Clifton. The varied menu offers well-made breakfast/brunch classics alongside dishes like short rib eggs Benedict and hot honey fried chicken and Liege waffles. Heyde’s popular sister restaurant, Fork & Barrel, has relocated here and is sharing the space with Morning Fork. Both restaurants are now at the Lower Clifton location, where all three meals will be served. $$$ B Br L p f SLEEPY ROOSTER MORNING KITCHEN 2204 State St. New Albany IN, 812-725-0814. Are you ready for the Mexicali Benedict? Churros meet corned beef hash at this New Albany spinoff from the creators of Señor Iguanas and La Catrina, fusing breakfast, brunch and lunch favorites from the American and Mexican culinary traditions. $$$ B Br L D pf TOAST ON MARKET 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 812-9418582. After a period of pandemic hibernation, the New Albany location of Toast has reopened as the only location of Toast. Auf Wiedersehen, NuLu. There are no new developments on the trendy breakfast or lunch menus of American café classics with a twist, but all dishes are fresh, made with care, and familiarly tasty. $ B Br L pf TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D f WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 6182866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449, 121 S. Floyd St., 6905925, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4735, 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 850-9453, 9010 Taylorsville Rd (Stony Brook Shopping Center), 473-5959. Specialty omelets, the “everything” muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can soon be found at this growing mini-chain’s seventh outlet in New Albany, is expected to open in October. $$ B Br L p ZEGGZ AMAZING EGGS 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 882-1650. This quick-service breakfast and lunch spot offers five house omelets (plus the chance to build your own), three variations on eggs Benedict, as well as biscuits and gravy, croque madames, waffles and pancakes. Luncheon fare includes a B.A.L.T (the ‘a’ is for avocado), salads and soups. $$ B Br L pf

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have branched out to three locations. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L AGAVE & RYE EPIC TACOS 426 Baxter Ave., 873-5111, 324 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 993-8226. This Covington-based chain has added a second area store in southern Indiana. Offerings include tacos, bourbon, arcade games and 70+ tequilas. The Rooster taco contains crispy chicken, mac & cheese and hot sauce.

The Bang Bang is a vegetarian dish, with crispy cauliflower, corn fritters, queso and spicy carrots. $$ L D p f APPLEBEE’S 4717 Dixie Hwy., 448-1399, 10006 Will Way, 2311661, 4535 Outer Loop, 969-1228, 771 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-3594.. This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D p ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. A lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies,

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 55

and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D p BACK OF THE HOUSE COLLECTIVE YARD 3215 Preston Hwy. Louisville’s first designated outdoor food truck yard, located near the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center, hosting six food trucks drawn from a rotating list. Open year-round when the temperature range is between 40 - 95 degrees F., except during extreme weather. Yard games and a miniature dog park supplement the food and drink. $$ L D f BAER’S CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, (812) 9247348. Under new ownership, this successor to the long-running River City Winery has the same winemaker, with Brandon Noe as the new chef. $$ L D p f BEYOND THE SUN 1023 Bardstown Rd. Highlands restaurant and lounge from Amet Bullaudy and the team at Sol Aztecas, features American and international cuisine (burgers, tacos, wings and more), 50 draft beer lines, cocktails, a second-floor patio and nightly entertainment. $$$ D pf BLIND SQUIRREL 592 N. English Station Rd., 384-6761. This American-style restaurant is part of the King Louis Sports complex.

The 400-seat, two-story dining facility boasts outdoor seating overlooking the sand volleyball courts, 27 TVs inside, a performance venue, a cigar humidor and outdoor smoking lounge.

Chef Chris Goss serves up his take on American family standards: burgers, sandwiches, pizza and so on. $$ L D pf

DOUBLE DOGS 13307 Shelbyville Rd., 244-4430. Double Dogs, a Bowling Green, Ky.-based chain with four locations, has its first Louisville-area restaurant in Middletown. Double Dogs describes itself as “a family friendly restaurant with a sports atmosphere,” serving a variety of appetizers, sandwiches, hot dogs, burgers and pizza. $ L D pf EAT YOUR BOURBON MARKETPLACE 2708 Frankfort Ave., 6180939. Owner Matt Jamie extends his Crescent Hill Bourbon Barrel Foods concept with this grab-and-go prepared foods store that uses recipes from Jamie’s "Eat Your Bourbon" cookbook: charcuterie boards, sandwiches and other prepared foods from Chef-inResidence Michael Crouch and Butchertown Grocery Bakery. $$ B Br L D p FIRST WATCH 201 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6075, 960 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1955, 1205 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 575-3447, 2225 Taylorsville Rd., 444-7744, 12913 Shelbyville Rd., 233-0770, 4948 U.S. 42, 242-9444, 10639 Fischer Park Dr., 410-5129, 7714 Bardstown Rd., 413-5440. This Florida-based chain offers both traditional breakfast fare (fried eggs, sausage), proprietary specials, like French toast Monte Cristo (made with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese), crepes with plenty of fillings and healthful dishes like egg white omelets and cranberry nut oatmeal. $BL

BOOMTOWN 110 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1314. A third restaurant takes over the former home of the legendary South Side Inn, Boomtown focuses on affordable classic dishes: several burgers, including a wild game option, steak dinner with two sides and pork chops. $$ L D pf

GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1712, 117 E. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN. The original Louisville flowering of Game brought us sliders, meatballs and burgers made from ground exotic meats.

Start with bone marrow or fried frog legs, try some wild boar chorizo sliders, or build your own burger from kangaroo, venison or alpaca. A second iteration, Game on the River, plays the same game but adds “seafood flair with water animals” (translation: fish) to capitalize on the riverside location in Jeffersonville. $$ D f

BRICK HOUSE TAVERN + TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3263182. Brick House, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D pf

GANDER, AN AMERICAN GRILL 111 S. English Station Rd., 9158484. Chris and Anne Mike, of Goose Creek Diner, have opened Gander, An American Grill, serving steaks, burgers, pasta and sandwiches — "a little bit of everything that makes America what it is," according to Mike. $$$ Br L D pf

CHAMPIONS GRILLE 505 Marriott Dr. (Radisson Hotel), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D p

GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach reflects its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald. There are two breakfast buffets, American and Continental, as well as a la carte choices from the griddle or from a “Healthy Sunrise” menu. $$ B L p

CHEDDAR’S SCRATCH KITCHEN 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D pf CHEF SHAQ’S KITCHEN 612 S. Fifth St., 614-7527. Shaquan McDonald, a two-decade food business veteran, describes his first foray into eatery ownership as “American style with a twist.” Early standouts include the Smoketown Burger, Thunder Over Louisville Fries with bacon and white queso, and McDonald’s signature Nashville Hot Chicken Sandwich. $$ L D

GREEN DISTRICT SALADS 126 Breckinridge Ln., 409-5293, 225 S. Fifth St., 822-3055, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 565-4986, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 792-9011, 4227 Town Center Blvd., Clarksville IN, (812) 712-4351, 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 996-5666, 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5293. This quickly expanding fast-service restaurant now has six area locations, with the latest in St. Matthews. Customers watch their salads being constructed while they wait, and house-made soups and wraps are also available.$$ LD

CHERRY PICKIN’ 828 E Main St., 963-5969. This “juicery” shares NuLu Marketplace patio space with The Seltzery, and featured cold-pressed juices along with breakfast and lunch options (oats, avocado toast) as well as smoothies and other health- and wellnessoriented fare. $$ L D f

HARROD’S CREEK TAVERN 6313 River Rd., 919-8812.

Commuters trundling home to the suburbs can mingle with Prospect residents, river rats and parched kayakers docking out back on Harrod’s Creek. Look for an expanded bar food menu, brown bag lunches to go and late-night food service. $ L D pf

CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880, 3007 Poplar Level Rd., 638-5202, 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-3000. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D

IN SEASON 324 W. Main St., 323-3200. Sourcing ingredients from his farm, owner Daniel Passafiume, offers healthy options like salads, stir fry and harvest bowls, designed with what is currently in season. The menu will rotate at least four times per year. $$ L

CORELIFE EATERY 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-5680, 9365 Viking Center Dr., 709-7131. This Syracuse-based franchise offers vegetable and grains bowls, bone and vegetable broth, and grass-fed steak, chicken and tofu power plates. $$ L D CURRITO 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 883-0043. This Cincinnati-based chain offers Asian versions of grain bowls and wraps, with a choice of meat or tofu. Their signature drink is the Dreamsicle Shake. $ L D DENNY’S 434 Eastern Pkwy., 636-2538. What better place for travelers to get breakfast than Denny’s? This venerable chain knows its customers, pleasing them with familiar diner food in big portions. The late-night scene in this 24-hour refuge for the hungry makes for colorful fun. $$ B Br L D

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250.

IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D JOE'S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 434-7470.

Founded in 1937, the landmark Lyndon neighborhood bar famed for its impassive stuffed moose was restored to independent local ownership in 2023 when Olé Restaurant Group divested its stake.

Regular customers enjoy the same food, including burgers, sandwiches, wings, flatbread pizza and plate lunch specials, with domestic and craft beers, and nightly live music. $$ L D pf KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton

Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D MOYA'S AMERICAN KITCHEN 10000 Linn Station Rd., 496-6692.

This "good old American comfort food" restaurant in Jeffersontown offers fare such as jalapeño hushpuppies, fried green tomatoes, grilled cheese and tomato soup, smothered pork chop, chopped steak, meatloaf and fried catfish.$$ L D pf NAÏVE 1001 E. Washington St., 749-7856. This Butchertown vegetarian restaurant has been catering for some months in preparation for its opening as a sit-down restaurant. Its dishes include savory rice bowls, burritos, frittatas and quiches, savory toasts, salads and sandwiches. $$ D pf NOODLES & COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 632-0102, 4302 Summit Plaza Dr., 791-9015, 319 Cardinal Blvd., 632-2846.

This Colorado-based fast-casual chain offers an eclectic noodle array: Asian style (pad Thai, Bangkok curry), pastas (Tuscan fresca, penne rossa) — or select from a lineup of savory sandwiches and salads.. $ L D f O’CHARLEY’S 1901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-8372. O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the motto RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu.

Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta know it is well worth the trip up into the Knobs above New Albany to enjoy the conviviality of his restaurant, and his always satisfying take on classic American steak, sandwiches and seafood. $$ L D p SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $BLD SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 340 Whittington Pkwy., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 3505 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 725-7176. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D pf THE B.A. COLONIAL 818 Kenwood Dr. (Colonial Gardens), 2428686. Another entry into the Iroquois-area resurrection of the historic Colonial Gardens. The menu here features American casual cooking, such as freshly-ground burgers, salads and seafood. A full bar serves a five-cocktail list, margaritas, rum punches, and its own take on the Old Fashioned. $ L D p f THE SOUTH SEAS 1301 Story Ave., 618-1301. The Butchertown space that had been Butchertown Pizza, then Hog Father Pizza, and for a generation before that, Hall’s Cafeteria, is now a tiki bar. Here you will find original ’50’s era fruity tiki cocktails, a family-style pig roast, spicy chicken tortas, Spam fried rice, and Baja fish tacos.

Brunch seven days a week, featuring different variations of Hawaiian-style pancakes and Spam and eggs. $$$$ D p f THE STREATERY 304 W. Woodlawn Ave., 398-5777. Welcome to the diverse Beechmont neighborhood’s collective kitchen and evolving food court, as helmed by Dung Tran, whose second Fresh Out of the Box eatery (which also distributes Char’Cute’rie Creations) operates there along with Soul Hi Vegan, Ms. Lisa’s (Vietnamese), and various weekly kitchen pop-ups. Tran is working toward six permanent food vendors and a full bar. $$ L D f TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D p

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 55

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 56

8TH STREET PIZZA 411 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 725-0004.

This “boutique, pay-it-forward pizza shop and ministry” serves New York style pizza with a “pay what you can afford” concept. Pay the full suggested price, pay what you can afford to pay, or pay the full amount of the suggested meal price plus a little extra to "pay it forward”. $ L D f ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 945-1149. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ LD ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BANDITZ PIZZA 712 Brent St. (The Village Market), 632-1132. This pizzeria from the creators of Bunz Burgerz has joined the roster of eateries at The Village Market Food Hall in revitalizing Paristown, promising a unique crust described as a cross between flatbread and Neapolitan, as available in both personal and shareable sizes. $$$ L D pf BEARNO’S PIZZA (14 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 14 locations. $$ L D f BLAZE FAST-FIRE’D PIZZA 4848 Shelbyville Rd., 895-7800, 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 822-3677, 4118 Summit Plaza Dr., 9158731, 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarsville IN, 406-4347. At this California-based pizza franchise you customize your own pie from a lineup of meat and vegetable toppings, cheeses and several sauces. The pie bakes in just 2 minutes in a flaming hearth oven.

There are ready-to-order signature pies also for those who can’t make up their minds. $$ L D p f BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 935-5540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D f BOOMBOZZ PIZZA · WATCH BAR 1448 Bardstown Rd., 4588889, 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 265-4591, 1315 Herr Ln., 3940000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 913-4171.

After two decades of success with his gourmet pizza stores, Tony Palombino is reimagining his brand and retooling both the decor and the menus at all of his locations. That reimagining includes audio/video enhancements, a new company logo and slogan (“Crafted for You”), an expanded wine and cocktail list. New menu items include jumbo tater tots stuffed with bacon and cheddar cheese, a cauliflower crust pizza, seasonal pizzas and game day specials. $$ L D pf BORROMEO’S PIZZA & ITALIAN 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743.

Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D pf CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with nontraditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEF'S CUT PIZZERIA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 265-1320. This reasonably priced Lyndon pizza place has sandwiches too, from chili dogs to turkey clubs, and pasta dishes. $ L D p COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 742-8200, 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0106, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport).

Middletown and airport travelers now partake in what St. Matthews diners have enjoyed for a few years–excellent pizzas made in coal-fired ovens burning at 800 degrees F, crisping the crust in 4 minutes and “leoparding” it with black spots. Toppings are fresh and regionally-sourced. $$ L D pf

56 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

CRAFT HOUSE PIZZA 4041 Preston Hwy., 363-4880, 9601 Newbridge Rd., 409-6276, 12607 Taylorsville Rd., 742-8700, 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 861-1012. These four Louisville metro pizzerias embrace owner Tom Brown’s move into craft beer, brewed since 2019 at the Preston Highway location (still called Hometown Brewing). The pizzeria menu offers pasta dishes, hoagies and strombolis as well as one-of-a-kind pies like the Bacon Cheeseburger pizza, with the tasty added innovation of crusts using spent grain from the brewhouse. In 2022, Beer Connoisseur Magazine selected Foxbody 5.0 lager as #58 in its Top 100 American beers of the year. $$ L D p DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1836 Mellwood Ave., 890-6331.

Dan McMahon sells generously-topped pizzas at the walk-up venue in the courtyard of the Mellwood Arts Center. The choices are mostly traditional with outliers like Hawaiian and Kentucky Hot Brown. His butter-drenched garlic breadsticks, aka “Cracksticks,” are a fan favorite. McMahon’s pizzas can also be found at Tim Tam Tavern. $$ L D DEENO'S PIZZA & WINGS 9100 Dixie Hwy., 653-7814. This ambitious little family-run place rolls and shapes house-made dough to order, and bakes, then air-fries wings before tossing them in one of 11 sauce coatings. The weekend buffet offers pizza, wings and a taco bar. $$ D f DERBY CITY PIZZA 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373, 2500 Crittenden Dr., 384-4777, 10619 Manslick Rd., 742-3940, 2331 Brownsboro Rd., 290-0677, 9910 Linn Station Rd., 384-8733, 12900 Dixie Hwy., 290-2310., 412 W. Daisy Ln., New Albany IN, 812-590-6880. When 15-year-old Larry Davis went to work at a local pizzeria in 1991, you might say the pie was cast. Three decades later Davis’s family-oriented local pizza chain stresses solid and reasonably priced Italian food, with seven signature pizzas as well as a build-your own; gluten free and low carb crustless options; wings, salads and toasted subs; and lasagna and spaghetti with genuinely “jumbo” meatballs. $$ L D pf DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424, 7507 Upper River Rd., 618-0234. Multiple area locations serve pizza by the slice (and by the mammoth 30-inch pie); also on the menu are sandwiches, salads, wings, queso sticks, and D’s Fried (dough) Balls, alongside a good selection of domestic, imported, and craft beers. $$ L D pf EMMY SQUARED PIZZA 825 E. Market St., 785-5800. This Detroitstyle pizza chain joins a growing list of properties in the Nulu Marketplace, anchored by West Sixth Brewing. The square pizzas here share the menu with burgers, including the double-stack "Le Big Matt.” $$$ L D p f FAT JIMMY’S 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. $$ L D GOODFELLAS PIZZERIA 642 Baxter Ave., 398-5704. This Lexington-based regional pizza chain, known for its large, latenight slices, is one of the early tenants in the apartment/retail development across from the entrance from Cave Hill. Pizzas are denoted by Mafia-style names: the Wiseguy, the Don, Tommy “Two Times.” $$$$ L D HIDEOUT PIZZARIA 5620 Barrett Ln., 742-3145. This familyfriendly sports bar has 12-foot TV screens, pool and cornhole, arcade games and live music, in addition to pizzas, burgers, spaghetti and an array of sandwiches. $$$ L D HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555. The Middletown outlet of this Kentucky regional chain offers pasta dishes, hoagies and stromboli as well as signature pies, including a trio of chicken specialties: White, Buffalo and Barbecue. $$ L D p IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ L D JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 458-5387, 10494 Westport Rd., 426-1181. Now with seven Louisville outlets, this Detroit-based chain offers sit-down service and carry-out. The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f LAROSA’S PIZZERIA 10641 Fischer Park Dr., 513-347-1111. The first Louisville location of a Cincinnati-based pizza chain, which strives to be family-friendly, is open in Springhurst, offering thin crust pizza, calzones, hoagies and pasta. $$ L D p

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 57

LEGACY PIZZA & BAKERY 1001 Vincennes St., New Albany, IN, (812) 725-0021. This sincere little pizza joint sells New York-style pizzas, calzones, strombolis and breadsticks. $$ L D LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (12 Locations) This pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D LOUISVILLE PIZZA KING 3505 Taylor Blvd., 333-0647. The original Pizza King dates to 1957 in Lafayette, Indiana. Although this 2023 version south of Churchill Downs isn’t directly affiliated with the remaining Hoosier network, the takeout and delivery pizzas only follow the unique Pizza King template. $$ D LUCKY LEOPARD PIZZA 1032 Story Ave. Located inside High Horse Bar in Butchertown, Lucky Leopard focuses on thin crust Neapolitan pizzas, flash-cooked in a 900-degree oven. The pizza dough is also used in the Panozzo sandwiches, flash baked to order and filled with pulled pork and caprese with black olive vinaigrette, among other choices. $$ D p LUIGI’S PIZZERIA 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L f MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. A pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishment. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ LD MAC'S @ MILE WIDE 636 Barret Ave. (inside Mile Wide Beer Co.), 409-8139. Beneath the silos at Mile Wide Brewery, Mac’s offers a concise menu of personal-size pizzas with clever names, also salads and appetizers that pairs well with Mile Wide’s tap list. There’s even a Nutella dessert pizza. $$ L D p MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144, 8800 Dixie Hwy., 890-8266. Pasquale “Pat” Giammarco, an immigrant from Abruzzo, founded this rapidly growing (1,100+ sites) pizza chain in 1978. Marco’s has added a Louisville location

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

to its longtime New Albany kitchen, drawing plaudits for generous toppings, cauliflower crusts and pizza bowls. $$ L D

PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (7 Locations) There are eight locations for this take-and-bake pizza purveyor scattered around town. $$ L D

MIMO’S NEW YORK STYLE PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, New Albany IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix. Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p

PARLOUR PIZZA 131 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 914-7400, 2636 Frankfort Ave., 895-9400, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 920-6400, 133 W. Liberty St., 888-1515, 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. It all started with a lively pizzeria and beer garden in Jeffersonville at the foot of the Big Four Bridge. Now Parlour has expanded to five locations on both sides of the Ohio River, the most recent in Jeffersontown in the space occupied for decades by Chubby Ray’s Pizza. All Parlour locations serve topping-heavy New York pies and offer dozens of craft beers on tap. $$ L D pf

MOZZA PI 12102 Lagrange Rd., 890-4832, 1020 E. Washington St., 2200 Bardstown Rd., 724-7751. Tom Edwards began MozzaPi several years ago as one of the first food trucks in Louisville. At his Anchorage pizza place he drafts artisanal pies from flour he mills himself. He makes bread too, and gives courses in artisanal baking.

Now with two outposts in TEN20 Brewery. $$$ L D pf MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 10035 Dixie Hwy., 632-2504, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0933. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw. $$ L D NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. PIZZERIA 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. The remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 882-1776, 10600 Meeting St., 882-3000. You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? Now you can get it in these two Eastern suburbs locations. Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D pf ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 653-7243.

Impellizzeri’s massive pies, loved for a generation, are the draw but there is also a full menu of Italian-inspired meals including hoagie sandwiches and pasta dishes at all three locations. $$$$ L D pf

PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Old Louisville hipsters have long needed a nearby pizza joint. Now they have it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies, along with appetizers, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D f PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1701 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-8286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. We heartily recommend the barbecue pizza. $$ L D PIZZA LUPO 1540 Frankfort Ave., 409-8440. Max Balliet, the owner of Holy Molé taco truck, now also has Lupo, a casual Italian restaurant where he bakes up pizzas on a fire-engine-red wood-fired oven. Along with pizza, Lupo offers a variety of handmade pastas in a restored 19th century Butchertown building. $$$$ D pf PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D pf PIZZAVILLE 2901 Goose Creek Rd., 754-3001. Owner Todd Case once was a pizza scientist, overseeing corporate pizza dough varieties. His own versions of New York-style hand-tossed and Detroit deep dish pizzas have become so popular that Pizzaville is expanding into an adjoining Westport Plaza (East End) business suite formerly occupied by Bandido Taqueria. $$ L D SHERRILLI'S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D f

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 57

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 58

SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 589-8686, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 491-3663. Ready for takeout or eat-in, both the downtown storefront and its suburban sister site offer good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D pf SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 4005 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their Philly Cheesesteaks and massive slices of pizza has added a third location. All are open until 5 am nightly Wednesday through Saturday. $ L D SQUARE CUT PIZZA AND SUGAR ROOM 741 E. Oak St., 2905721. The Sugar Room serves soft-serve ice cream in unusual flavors: burnt marshmallow, chocolate sea salt, s’mores swirl and others. Roman-style pizzas, with thin but airy crusts, is the concept in the larger Shelby Park space, which also sells Italian cured meats. $$ L D f THE CORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D THE GRAIN HAUS 41 W. First St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337.

Part of Floyd County Brewing, the separate building across the court yard boasts a wood-fired pizza oven and a rotating list of guest beers. $$ D pf THE POST 1045 Goss Ave., 635-2020, 1759 Bardstown Rd. Germantown’s classic New York-style pizza joint (rooted in a former VFW post), offers one of the city’s most creative and wellexecuted arrays of whole pies and slices, subs, and brews. A second location, in the Highlands between Pivot Brewing and Darling’s, is takeout only, with a scaled-back menu. $$ D p UNION 15 5205 New Cut Rd. (Colonial Gardens), 653-7494. Now under new ownership after a brief closing in early 2023, the pizza and tap house’s name refers to Kentucky joining the Union as the 15th state. The menu includes Chicago thin crust pizza, wings and sandwiches, and the bar has more than 50 beers, wines and bourbon on tap. $$ L D pf WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 3348 Hikes Ln., 907-5542. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of

58 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at both of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D pf WICK’S SLICE 811 E. Market St., 384-9390. The venerable Highlands institution arrives in NuLu with a spinoff emphasizing late-night grab ‘n’ go options centered on pizza by the slice, as well as a truncated Wick’s menu of limited full pies, and enjoying a symbiotic-but-separate relationship with the adjacent Taj Louisville bar. $$$ L D pf ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D

BABY MAE'S 1817 Graybrook Ln., New Albany IN, 914-7040.

Barbecue and soul food in the old Mom & Pop’s Cone Corner building. Baby Mae’s reasonably priced menu includes everyone’s comfort foods: ribs, pulled pork, smoked turkey, mac and cheese, home fries and the “grandaddy of chili dogs.” $ L D BACK DECK BBQ 801 W. Kenwood Dr., 705-7662. What began as a popular barbecue food truck has settled down at the late, lamented Jimbo's Bar-b-Que spot near Iroquois Park. In addition to the expected pulled pork and chicken, brisket and sausages, burnt ends are available Friday and Saturday. $$ L D f BARREL 33 TAVERN & GRILL 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868.

This Middletown outpost has a long menu of better-than-the-usual pub grub (barbecue, chicken made several ways, tacos), salads, wraps and sandwiches (including a Kentucky Cuban, made with country ham and pimento cheese). The bar runs a robust bourbon program. There’s a lively atmosphere all nights, and live music on weekends. $$ L D p BIG BEN’S BBQ 600 Quartermaster Center, Jeffersonville IN, 2844453. This family run BBQ joint is now at the Quartermaster Center, smoking up a storm and impressing locals who recommend Johnnie’s Smokin Ribs, Joecille’s Backbone (brisket tips), Big Ben’s shredded pork sandwich and Alvin’s Wild-Side shredded chicken sandwich. $$ L D f

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 2392722. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f CITY BARBEQUE 329 Whittington Pkwy., 996-8003, 4027 Poplar Level Rd., 206-6085. This Ohio-based BBQ chain specializes in brisket, but doesn’t neglect pulled pork (served with slaw on top) and St. Louis ribs. It also smokes turkey breast, chicken and sausage. $$ L Dpf FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812. This franchise chain operation maderby cityderbuyy be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickorysmoked barbecue. $$ L D pf FDKY BBQ 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 785-4273. The logo shows that “FD” stands for Fire Department — after all, those guys know all about smokin’. Eat dinner in or order a couple of pounds of pulled pork, marinated pulled chicken, brisket or smoked sausage, firehouse chili or Res Q stew and all the required side dishes to go.

Ribs on Wednesdays and Friday calls for fried fish. $$ L D f FEAST BBQ 909 E. Market St., 749-9900. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue to NuLu. He has formulas for brining times and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and the smoke from overwhelming the meats. $ B L D pf FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 8953223. The aroma greets you as soon as you get out of your car when the smokers are fired up out front. FABD is a neighborhood watering hole that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The pulled pork ranks as some of the best in the city. The ribs, smoked salmon and fried fish sandwich are hits too. $$ L D pf GORE’S SMOKEOUT BBQ 516B S. 18th St., 341-0985. A longtime food truck operator and caterer, Gore’s has taken one of two Russell neighborhood properties of the OneWest community

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 59

foundation’s chef incubator program. Expect the full range of barbecued meats and sides, including more esoteric items like Grippo-encrusted chicken wings and smoked meatloaf. $$ L D GUY FIERI'S SMOKEHOUSE 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 919-7299. The latest creation of the Food TV’s chef caused some serious musing about the meaning of “celebrity” chefs to local eating. But see the hoopla for yourself, and try some of the fried chicken brined in pickle juice, brisket with pomegranate, sorghum-glazed pork chops or Triple Crown grilled cheese sandwich. $$ L D pf HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 Charlestown-New Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D HOLY SMOKES BAR-B-QUE 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. The former Bootleg Bar-B-Q franchise on Preston Hwy. has become Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que. Owner Mark Weatherholt smokes his wings for three hours, his ribs and chicken for five, and his pork lingers overnight. He does brown sugar wings, too. $ L D JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 2415829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should.

Highly recommended. $$ L D f LOUIE’S HOT CHICKEN & BARBECUE 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 709-4274. The chicken here ranges through 4 levels of heat, the hottest using the notorious ghost pepper. BBQ choices include pulled pork and brisket and smoked wings. $ L D f

MARK T'S SLAB HOUSE 4912 Preston Hwy., 409-7366. That would be slabs of ribs, of course. A wonderfully direct name for a barbecue restaurant. Several drum-style smokers out front exude a savory cloud, attesting to the work being done inside those drums. $LD MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D pf MARTIN'S BAR-B-QUE JOINT 3408 Indian Lake Dr., 242-4666.

Pretty famous in Tennessee, but Louisvillians can now savor the meats smoked in the open pit (the whole hogs take 24 hours).

All dishes, meats, sides and even sauces are made in-house daily.

For a different kind of treat, try the smoked turkey sandwich. $$ L D pf MISSION BBQ 4607 Shelbyville Rd., 206-3331, 1213 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 269-3860. The National Anthem is played every day at noon at this Baltimore-based chain, which makes a point of supporting soldiers, firefighters, police officers and other first responders. Look for Texas-inspired brisket, smoked turkey, pulled chicken and pork, and even smoked salmon.

There are also ribs, of course, sandwiches and scratch-made sides. $$ L D pf

M&M BBQ 1401 Bluegrass Ave., 996-0163. The Ekklesia Christian Life Ministries operates this BBQ joint that offers rib tips, meat loaf, an assortment of traditional sides, and keeps a limited schedule (Tuesday-Friday, 11:30-7). The food is popular enough that they sometimes sell out, so get there early. $$ L D f

MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 9386262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 290-7998. The St. Matthews spot garnered so many barbecue fans that a second outlet opened in the East End for the overflow. Knot on your bib for Kansas City-style smoked pork and beef ribs (a house specialty), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. Momma's “2% for Louisville” program steadily donates 2% of earnings to local charities. $$ D f

MACK BROS BBQ 2700 Rockford Ln., 384-4590. This family owned and operated restaurant serves ribs, rib tips, chicken and sides, including a fan favorite: cornbread salad. $$ L D

PIG BEACH BBQ 1201 River Rd., 676-5550. Named after a Bahamas island inhabited entirely by feral swine, Pig Beach is a Brooklynbased smokehouse, beer hall, and bar, oft-delayed, but now open

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

at Waterfront Park in the huge riverside funhouse formerly occupied by Tumbleweed and Doc’s Cantina. Expect chef-driven barbecue and sides shaped by “worldly influences,” burgers, wings, and all the drinks. $$$ L D pf RICKHOUSE BARBECUE 216 Pearl St. (Mesa Kitchen), New Albany IN, 725-7691. Food truck BBQ veterans are now vending (for lunch, grab and go and catering) from the Mesa A Collaborative Kitchen incubator in downtown New Albany, specializing in South Carolina- and Texas-style barbecue, with signature sauces and all the sides. $$ L RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out-only place now has seating inside and out. Smoked brisket is the house specialty with pulled pork close behind. Some days one sells out, on other days the other.

Winter hours are 11-6 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by the sandwich or by the pound. $ L D RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 3670007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D pf RUBBIN’ BUTTS BBQ 8007 Highway 311, Sellersburg IN, 7487266. Up the road a ways you will find this “traditional” BBQ joint with some house specialties not so traditional: smoked deviled eggs, BBQ pork queso and their signature, the BBQ Pig-E-Chonga, a flour shell stuffed with baked beans, cheese, and pulled pork, then deep fried and smothered in queso and BBQ sauce. $ L D SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 10706 W Manslick Rd., 363-3227. It’s a new location for this long-time Fairdale restaurant. In addition to standards like ribs, pulled pork and chicken, you can find smoked bologna, turkey ribs and pork rinds, plain or loaded with your choice of toppings. $ L D f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. This Stony Brook-area eatery combines a sports-bar with a barbecue concept. Its large and varied menu includes wings and burgers, steaks and pork chops, and several takes on mac ‘n’ cheese, as well as righteous ribs. $$ L D p

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 59

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 10:59 PM Page 60

THE SMOKERY 2354 Frankfort Ave., 709-5176. Smoked gouda mac? Texas armadillo eggs? They’re two of Chef Giovanni Tenace’s added enticements in Clifton at a tiny former bar where Tenace can usually be found smoking pork, chicken, brisket and ribs, alongside still more to eat: tacos, sliders and burgers. $$ D p f

BARRY’S CHEESESTEAKS 5408 Valley Station Rd., 298-9371.

Barry Washington’s establishment in Valley Station is an edible manifestation of his ministry, featuring classic Philly cheesesteaks and fries (he’s originally from Philadelphia) in addition to mushroom cheesesteaks and sandwiches loaded in various creative ways. $ L D BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ B L BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1158. The bagel/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option.

Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully-staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CHICAGO STEAK & LEMONADE 9015 Galene Dr.,742-1381. This local spot serves a variety of Philly cheese steaks, gyros, lemonpepper fish dinners and wings. The lemonade comes in a passel of different flavor combos. $ L D COLD SMOKE BAGELS 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 3094269. Four kinds every day, with a schmear of your choice. Bagels, sandwiches and the weekend brunch highlights latkes. $ B Br L f EV'S DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 614-6300. A cozy downtown deli located in the Hilliard-Lyons building. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3473, 4905 Outer Loop, 749-4257. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRANK'S MEAT & PRODUCE 3342 Preston Hwy., 363-3989.

Frank’s has been around a long time, treating those in the know to piled-high deli sandwiches for prices so reasonable it might seem you stepped into a time warp. There are steaks and chops and produce and other groceries, but it is best known for lunchtime service, where the long lines move fast, and the constant turnover ensures freshness of sandwiches and soups. $ L D GALAN'S MEAT MARKET & DELI 2801 W. Market St., 614-8514.

This old-school butcher shop also offers piled-high deli sandwiches and sides such as German potato salad or sour cream macaroni and cheese salad. Eat-in at the handful of small tables or take away. $$ LD GOOD BELLY 2216 Dundee Rd., 322-0300. Riffing off a New York Jewish deli motif, features include pastrami, corned beef and Reuben sandwiches as ex-food truck operators refashion a Douglass Loop storefront. $$ L D GORILLA BOB’S GRUB SHACK 8503 Terry Rd. The line forms early at the window of this tiny, carry-out-only kitchen kiosk in Pleasure Ridge Park, where devotees from near and far flock for the best-selling Hot Brown, and also other substantial sandwiches: A Reuben, Meatball, Philly Cheesesteak and Cuban, among others. $ LDf HAYMARKET BY ASHBOURNE FARMS 3020 River Rd., 709-9994.

Marketplace and urban farm outlet (not to be confused with the former downtown Haymarket area), selling produce, baked goods, meat and grab-and-go food items, and with a focus on local agriculture and sustainable sourcing. $$ B L D f HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiralsliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties.

In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, 60 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too.

And cookies. $ L D f JASON’S DELI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101. Don’t look for a New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 1983 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3841384, 3013 Poplar Level Rd., 263-7002 404 W. Daisy Ln., New Albany IN, 812-590-1359, 5530 East Hwy. 62, Jeffersonville IN, 812-920-0359, 1305 Veterans Pky. Clarksville IN, 812-725-8799.

East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that include cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D f JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (15 Locations) This national sandwichshop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LADY TRON’S 147 E. Market St., New Albany, IN 725-9510. Owner Summer Seig has created an eclectic sci-fi theme for her soup and sandwich diner. Outside is Lady Tron, a smiling robot with red hair and a yellow apron; inside, you can find seasonal soups and sandwiches. $ B L D LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago style hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a fair price. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This family-owned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 37 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand three-deep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-7200. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MAYA BAGEL EXPRESS 3029 Poplar Level Rd., 883-2333. Launched by savvy expatriates from the East Coast, Maya’s has eager customers lining up to nosh on New York-style bagels, including widely praised lox and pastrami equipped varieties. $ B L MCALISTER’S DELI (10 Locations) Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MELT 502 516A S. 18th St., 373-8121. “Gooey and delicious” egg rolls and sandwiches crafted from unusual combinations, all named after hip-hop or soul singers. The "Hot Boy" sandwich has grilled buffalo chicken, cream cheese and ranch sauce; the "M.I. Yayo" egg roll is stuffed with shrimp and cheese, and "Big Poppa” rolls contain jalapeños, bacon, and three cheeses. $$ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668.

Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, handmade deli fare. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. (11 Locations) Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f PARNELLI'S CHICAGO EATERY 3548 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0025. If you crave Windy City classics like Vienna Beef hot dogs with neon relish or wet Italian beef sandwiches with giardiniera, head to the Jeff suburbs for Chicago specialites, incuding Greektown favorites like gyros and falafel. $ L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 896-8918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular

sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PAYNE STREET BAKEHOUSE 225 S. Spring St., 895-8323. Nancy’s Bagel Grounds has remodeled the space that had been Willingers Beer Depot after moving from its longtime digs on Frankfort Ave. Despite the name change, you can still get bagels and cream cheese with your coffee or juices as well as a breakfast sandwich called The Willinger. $ B L PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 540-1100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616, 9018 Taylorsville Rd., 290-4820.

This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D f QUIZNO’S SUBS 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7849.

Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L f SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 425-8447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SEEDS AND GREENS NATURAL MARKET & DELI 207 W. First St., New Albany IN, 944-3800. Browse among the organic vegetables and health foods, and stop by the deli for soups and salads, hot and cold sandwiches, vegan, vegetarian and omnivore preparations. $ L D SOUPY’S 3027 Hunsinger Ln., 451-5325. Back in 1987, Danny Bowling’s mother-in-law, Bette, started making pots of soup in a corner of Bowling's Meats & Deli, a family courtesy that led in 1995 to Soupy’s. Now it’s about 2 million cups of soup later, by Soupy’s estimate, all using Bette’s recipes, cooked up in small batches daily. Salads, sandwiches (including veggie burgers) and sweets as well. $ L D STEVENS DELI 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354. This New Yorkstyle deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing menu. $ L D THE BLOCK GOURMET DELI 14041 Shelbyville Rd., 785-4689. A husband and wife team with considerable experience in restaurants runs this Middletown deli. Fans report excellent thick sandwiches, fresh salads and homemade soups. Box lunches and catering also available. $$ L D THELMA’S DELI 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. Located in the glassed-in walkway (conservatory) between the two hotel towers, Thelma’s provides breakfast items, coffee, sandwiches and snacks 24/7 for Galt House guests and anyone else who needs, say, a pizza at 3 a.m. $$ B L D TORINO'S SANDWICH BAR 821 E. Market St., 785-6800. Torino’s is one of two additions to NuLu Marketplace. An Italian-style deli, Torino’s offers Italian, roast beef and meatball subs, artichoke & eggplant panini, salads, deli counter items, and grab & go items. It is also a front for its sister business, Gertie’s Whiskey Bar. $$ L p VINAIGRETTE SALAD KITCHEN 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 2059933, 3012 Bardstown Rd., 874-5740, 4037 Summit Plaza Dr., 323-5515. This Lexington-based modestly upscale salad restaurant offers locally sourced soups and salads and fresh lemonade. The menu includes the Bluegrass Blackberry salad; chicken taco and maki shrimp salads; and soups such as creamy tomato and sausage, kale and potato. Be sure to try one of three fresh lemonades on offer daily. $$ L D WHICH WICH? 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 290-3721, 221 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 708-2535, 13124 W. Hwy 42, 228-0621,

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 61

3531 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0637. The concept here is “create your own sandwich” and draws on variety of proteins and over 30 toppings choices. The subs are the draw, but they also have wraps, and now a variety of shakes. $$ B L D

BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D BURGER GIRL 3334 Frankfort Ave., 709-5454. Dan Borsch, who owns Burger Boy Diner and Neon Pizza, has expanded into Crescent Hill. Burger Girl is a 24-hour burger grill, the sister to long-time somnambulists’ favorite Burger Boy. $$ B L D f CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The open-faced roast beef sandwich, with mashed potatoes and brussels sprouts, is a F&D favorite. $ L D pf COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 244-9497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentuckystyle cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L THE COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 919-7099. History meets comfort food in a neighborhood cottage in the St. Joseph neighborhood, where fried chicken, chicken livers, pork chops, Salisbury steak and other staples of Southern cuisine began being served in 1929 and resumed in 2023 after a brief hiatus. $$ L D D. NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 618-2429. The nostalgia here is almost palpable. The interior has been upgraded, but changed as little as possible. The food offerings continue to be diner standards, like what was served when it first opened 50+ years ago. $ B L D

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D pf FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 742-2478. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D GASLIGHT DINER 10509 Watterson Trl., 694-2322. The owners of Mac’s Dough House did some research and decided that one more pizza place was more than J’town needed, so they have converted their space to a diner: all day breakfast, lunchtime specials and comfort food dinners to appeal to all ages. $$ B Br L Df GERALDINE’S KITCHEN 402 Wall St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7707.

Geraldine is the late mother of owner/chef Bob Hoyland; Geraldine’s Kitchen is a tribute to her sense of hospitality. Breakfast and lunch are served in an inviting, homey atmosphere. $ B L LIL' WAGNERS 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 9617600. A sit-down restaurant when you need a break from betting.

Burgers and sandwiches (including fried bologna), starters like nachos, fried pickles and crab cakes, and soups and salads. Also a grab-and-go menu of wraps, sandwiches and desserts. $ L D LINDSAY'S KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-4823. Good ol' southern hospitality and home-made food are the draws at this modest place in the far southwest of the city. The menu includes chicken-fried steak, meatloaf and liver and onions. $ B L D METRO DINER 4901 Outer Loop, 357-0767. The first local outlet of this Florida-based chain features "classic comfort food with flair.”

Harking back to the glory days of diners, Metro Diner offers breakfast, lunch and dinner menus all day long. Signature dish is fried chicken and waffles, with burgers, seafood and salads also available. $$ B L D

O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville favorite. $ B L Dp THE GOOSE 812 Lyndon Ln., 339-8070. “Re-Make/Re-Model” in Lyndon, where the renamed former Goose Creek Diner has new digs at the former Sal’s Pizza Pub; a refocused, bar-oriented neighborhood hangout approach; and a menu adding new shareable items while retaining previous favorites like fried green tomatoes and salmon croquettes. $ B Br L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution for over 100 years that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L

ADA'S KITCHEN AND CATERING 214 W. Broadway, 561-3762.

The late Ada Smith’s astounding half-century of community culinary service lives on at Smith’s namesake eatery downtown, where her children and grandchildren continue to prepare “your first choice in home-style cooking,” with soul food staples like fried chicken and fish, meatloaf, pork barbecue and “Kentucky oysters” (chitterlings), along with all the sides, including mashed potatoes, mac ‘n’ cheese and baked beans. $ L BLONDIE & JIM’S BISTRO 10711 Meeting St., 290-2356.

Grandma-inspired Southern cooking at Norton Commons, including soups, sandwiches and salads, with specialties like jambalaya, pot roast and “shoodie” bread (cornbread with bourbon honey butter), many of them prepared with owner Tonya GodseyLowe’s custom-made Keep It Spicey seasoning blends. $$$ L D BOOK & BOURBON SOUTHERN KITCHEN 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). This library-themed concept at this upscale, airport dining venue offers more than 100 bourbons, along with a classic craft cocktail list. The food menu tweaks Southern comfort

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023

61

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 62

food with items such as fried green tomato Benedict and buttermilk fried chicken and waffles. $$ B L D p

cabbage, fried whiting, pork roast, fried or smothered pork chops, mac and cheese and rib tips. $ L D f

CASK SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR 9980 Linn Station Rd., 6146499. The former SOU! Southern Kitchen & Bar has been reconceptualized as, as one customer called it, a “Bbq plus restaurant.” Gumbo, Brunswick stew, grit fritters and pulled pork nachos, dry rubbed oak-smoked ribs, smoked meatloaf sandwich (served hot or cold) and buttermilk Southern fried chicken sandwich are among the new items on the menu. $$$ D p

SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY 3402 W. Broadway, 822-1474. A family sports bar that satisfies all ages with its homey atmosphere and its well-crafted familiar food like double cheeseburgers, fried chicken with hot water cornbread, catfish, wings and ribs. $ L D p

DASHA BARBOURS SOUTHERN BISTRO 217 E. Main St., 8822081. This peripatetic, family-owned restaurant with a fine reputation settled anew, moving from Buechel to downtown, into the former Celtic Pig. Dasha’s certainly gives the “bistro” concept a down-home Southern twist. The menu is Southern comfort food: excellent fried chicken, pork chops, sweet potato casserole, and mac and cheese. $$ B L D p FLO'S HOUSE OF SOUL 3400 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 742-3065.

You order at the window and eat on the patio, which has heaters for cooler weather and TVs for watching big games. Owner Jason Hatcher tries to do good for his community, offering food rewards to kids with good report cards. Choices include burgers, chili dogs, Philly cheesesteaks, whiting and catfish sandwiches, nachos and ice cream. $$ Br D pf FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 4488044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices.

Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D FUN FOOD KITCHEN & DELI 4106 Murphy Ln., 329-2266. This East End strip mall soul food outlet has it all: jumbo chicken wings and tenders, pork ribs and rib tips, fish, sandwiches, home-cooked sides, peach cobbler and banana pudding. $ L D f LUCRETIA’S KITCHEN 617 W. Oak St., 294-8143. Granddaughter of West End hickory-smoked royalty (re: Mister Thompson's Old Recipe Style Bar-B-Que, and his famous Liquid Gold sauce), Lucretia Thompson keeps tradition alive at her soul food emporium, now cooking in Old Louisville, with crowd favorites Wing Wednesday, Rib Tip Thursday, Fried Fish Friday and Soul Food Sunday. $$ Br L D

SUE'S TOUCH OF COUNTRY 2605 Rockford Ln., 450-5059. Sue’s provides Shively with the kind of “stick to your ribs” food you go to a country/family style restaurant for. Daily Specials, homemade desserts and breakfast served all day. $ B L D

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 409-9422. Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a satisfying place to dine. The BBQ comes as pulled chicken, pork and brisket in sandwiches or full dinners. $ D pf

THE BLACK JOCKEYS LOUNGE 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526. Most recently this downtown space was Encore on 4th. Now, in partnership with the Project to Protect African-American Turf History, Black Jockeys Lounge celebrates the history of Black jockeys. Waitstaff wear jockey-inspired uniforms and the menu features items the jockeys may have ordered themselves: chicken and waffles, jerk chicken, prime rib, fried catfish and bread pudding. $$ Br L p

BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 11324 Preston Hwy., 969-5559, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 9231316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D f

THE KITCHEN TABLE 522 Happy Hollow Rd., Clermont, KY 3472920. Jim Beam Distillery’s on-site restaurant serves high-quality traditional Kentucky dishes (burgoo, fried catfish, fried chicken) and interesting variations (dick poppers, hot smoked trout).

Bourbon balls, of course, are among the dessert choices. $$$ L pf TINO'S TASTE OF HEAVEN 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 3560232. The inheritor of the ex-Sweet Peaches space in the West End, Tino’s has been offering lavish “Soul Food Sunday” spreads (Noon to 4:00 p.m.) in preparation for a resumption of daily business hours. $$ D V-GRITS 1001 Logan St., 889-6333. Co-owner Kristina Addington’s soulful vegan renditions of southern comfort food have a new, downsized portal at Logan Street Market in Shelby Park, having relocated from Germantown in early 2023. Addington’s former VGrits sister business, Chimera Brewing Company, has closed. $$$ LDp f VIBES RESTAURANT & ULTRA LOUNGE 1346 River Rd., 5686691. This sleek, chic, eclectic music and food venue is in the former Relish building. Vibes serves bar bites such as burgers and sandwiches, appetizers, loaded hot dogs and entrees like wings, tenders, shrimp and fish at lunch, brunch and dinner. $$ Br L D p

MATTIE'S KITCHEN 1018 S. 15th St., (St. Stephens Family Life Center), 544-8954. Open Wednesdays and Fridays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for after-church dining. The flexible menu can list fried or baked chicken, pork chops, mac n’ cheese, spaghetti and meatballs, and on Fridays, catfish is a special. $ Br L

CRAVINGS ALA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 5846846. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L

PO-Z'S KITCHEN 6801 Dixie Hwy., 883-0073. Pleasure Ridge Park residents in need of chicken wings, fried fish and side dishes like fried cabbage, mixed greens and sweet baked beans can find them here. Desserts too, like banana pudding and honey bun cake. $$ L Dp

GOLDEN CORRAL 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 812-913-7577, 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 883-5700. All you can eat cafeteria style family dining at one price very resonable price these days. If the quantity doesn’t surprise you, the food quality will. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ L D

SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D SOUL FOOD DINING 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 915-8239. A cafeteriastyle restaurant that offers all that a soul food fan would want: BBQ chicken, meatloaf, ribs, pork chops (with or without gravy), catfish, buffalo, and whiting, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, greens, green beans, sweet potatoes and slaw. $$ L D SOUL HI VEGAN 1860 Mellwood Ave., 402-2577. Progressing from pop-up to ghost kitchen to space at the Mellwood Art Center, Kamysha Blackwell continues to refine her signature vegan soul food dishes, whether vegetable based or prepared using Impossible and Beyond meats, like Philly cheese “steaks” and fried “chicken.” $$$ D f SOUTHERN EXPRESS 418 W. Oak St., 963-1719. This well-known West End carryout spot has moved into a sit-down location in Old Louisville. There, classic soul food is served for eat-in or takeout and at rock-bottom prices. Diners build their own meal at $1 per item. Choices vary daily, but look for fried chicken, cooked 62 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

BAR AT HOTEL GENEVIEVE 730 E. Market St. (Hotel Genevieve), 586-7049. For afternoon and evening hours, the Hotel Genevieve’s upper floor bar offers libations with light culinary fare inspired by Mediterranean-influenced French street food, as created by Chef Ashleigh Shanti Indoor and outdoor seating come with a panoramic view of the city. $$ D pf

ABOUT TIME BAR AND GRILL 12406 La Grange Rd. At this suburban sports bar and grill you can find casual fare like fried cod, fish and steak tacos and Philly cheesesteaks. The bar serves an extensive cocktail menu, beer and wine. $ L D p f AMY Z’S PUB 813 Lyndon Ln., 290-7334. A staple in Lyndon for more than a decade, with televised sports, live entertainment, pool tables, and an outdoor patio. Dining options include homemade burgers and old-school comfort food. $ D pf B-SIDE 1076 E. Washington St., 749-0110. Available as a flexible event venue on the second floor above the Decade restaurant in Butchertown, B-Side also operates under the same management as a free-standing bar and stage on weekends, so named after the “flip” side of pre-digital vinyl 45 rpm records. $$$$ D p BACKSIDE AT WHISKEY ROW 108 W. Washington St., 630-2012.

Taking over the space near the Yum! Center that had briefly held The Hall on Washington, Backside’s menu leans toward American dishes: burgers, chicken sandwiches, honey-butter biscuits and salads. The restaurant is also adding bourbon flights to qualify for a listing on the Urban Bourbon Trail. $$ L D p

BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 893-4487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D pf BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 9900 Linn Station Rd., 326-9830, 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030.

Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his two sports pubs, the area’s official homes for Cincinnati Bengals fans. $ L D pf BUBBA'S 33 4631 Medical Plaza Way, Clarksville IN, 284-5933. The 12th location of the growing chain from the guys at Texas Roadhouse, Bubba’s is a family friendly sports bar with TVs galore and corn hole boards on the patio. The menu offers chicken with two types of bacon, chili-rubbed salmon, smoked chipotle wings, a spicy habanero burger and pizzas. $$ L D pf BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131, 9119 Galene Dr., 409-6066. This well-established Shively tavern has added a second location in Jeffersontown. It’s noted for excellent service and honest bar food that consistently receives high praise. Signature dishes — “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), as well as burritos and barbecue — are now available at both locations. $ L D pf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 9315637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D pf BUZZARD’S ROOST WHISKEY ROW EXPERIENCE 624 W. Main St., 315-8688. An educational downtown sampling and sales venue showcasing expressions of master blender Jason “Bourbons Bistro” Brauner’s award-winning Buzzard’s Roost whiskies and also incorporating classes designed by F&D contributors Susan Reigler and Heather Wibbels. $$$ L D p DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921, 2651 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-6130, 1520 Veterans Pkwy. Jeffersonville IN, 812-913-5060. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has three local outlets that offer twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D pf DUNDEE TAVERN 2224 Dundee Rd., 458-6637. After a few flips and changes, Dundee Tavern has found its soul again as a neighborhood bar. A lot of beer choices on draft and in bottles, and a comfort food menu that includes wings and fingers, fried pickles, chili, burgers and sandwiches and Tavern Specialties like grilled flat iron steak and southern-fried cod. $$ L D pf FIRST STRING BAR AND GRILL 5921 New Cut Rd., 366-0049.

This South End sports bar offers pizza, baked spaghetti, fried bologna sandwiches and Cajun dry rub chicken wings. $$ L D p FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D pf GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 63

secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D pf

pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D p

GERTIE’S BOOTLEGGERS WHISKEY HALL 821 E. Market St., 785-6800. Now is not the time to pine for the single-barroom simplicity of Moe’s. The existing Gertie’s Whiskey Bar, which began as a “hidden” room, has added a retail Whiskey Boutique to the front room and a Speakeasy downstairs, the latter featuring classic cocktails and small plates, as well as live jazz. $$$ D p f

HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 239-4724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D pf

GERTIE’S SPORTS BAR NEXT DOOR 823 E. Market St. (NuLu Marketplace), 785-6800. The owners of Gertie’s Whiskey Bar have opened a sports bar right next door, featuring a Fireball machine and tequila snow cones. Watch games and indulge in“sophisticated hotdogs” and Frito pie, as well as shareable snacks. $$ D p GOODBOUNCE PICKLEBALL YARD 1515 River Shore Dr., 2902730, 1220 Main St., Clarksville IN, 812-590-3488. If pickleball is inevitable, you might as well accompany the exercise with fried pickles, pickle-brined fried chicken, and build-your-own nachos, bowls and tacos prepared on-site by Chef Ashlee Norrington, whose Happy Belly Bistro also services the Ten20 Craft Brewery.

Now with a second location. $$ L D pf GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 636-2748. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D p GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf HARBOR AND HOPS 3010 Gottbrath Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 7482622. TIn 2020 the Brown family localized and rebranded their erstwhile franchise operation, emerging with the largest selection of draft beer in Southern Indiana (85 taps) plus draft wines, hard ciders, kombucha and hard seltzer. The hearty pub menu is familiar and comforting – lots of burgers, beer cheese soup, salads and sandwiches, and a limited entree selection. $$$ L D pf HARRY’S TAPHOUSE & KITCHEN 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN., 725-1111, 5580 Hwy. 62, Jeffersonville IN, 812595-1545. Originating as a family-friendly riverside spot with stellar views of the Ohio, Harry’s also has an “inland” location nearer the River Ridge Commerce Center. At both, you can chow down on well-crafted bar food – fried pickles or jalapeño cheese balls; harvest apple salad; a chicken wrap, Philly cheesesteak or grilled bologna sandwich; baby back ribs, or a half-pound burger. $$ L D pf HELL OR HIGH WATER 112 W. Washington St., 587-3057. The entrance is through Hello Curio, an ostensible arts and crafts gallery. Downstairs is the main bar in a two-story library with a mezzanine floor, looking out onto a small live entertainment area.

Craft cocktails are bourbon-focused but not exclusively. There is a small bites menu, but drinks are the center of the “speakeasy” experience. $$ D p HIGHLANDS BAR & GRILL 2280 Bardstown Rd., 963-5956. Two regular customers of the former Diamond Station have taken over the premises on Bardstown Road, with a “bar food” menu of sandwiches, salads, and burgers. House-made sauces and dressings are derived from venerable family recipes. $$ D pf HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222.

Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but owner Tommy Clemons’ menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty or the French toast sausage. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D pf HILLCREST TAVERN 3212 Frankfort Ave., 290-6917. Dan Borsch, who runs several Old Louisville spots like Burger Boy Diner and Old Louisville Tavern, has expanded into Clifton with this renovation of a long-time neighborhood watering hole. The menu mirrors that of Old Louisville Tavern, with burgers, sandwiches, appetizers and a few entrée items. A vintage 100-year old bar will anchor the nostalgic ambiance. $$ L D pf HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have settled in at this prime Clifton location. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 3754667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot that boasts 3 different steak sandwiches, along with pizza, burgers and chicken. $ L D pf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 449-4940. $ L D f KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This familyowned tavern, a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978, offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and soups. The hamburgers, though, might be the best unpretentious burgers in town: freshly ground daily, always cooked perfectly, and served on a toasted bun. The chili ranks among the top in the city too. $ L D pf KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D p LAST PLACE AT NUMBER 15 121 W. Main St., 526-5691.

Regional elevated Americana bar food (like burgoo reformatted into nachos), cocktails and beers, available in the basement of the Number 15 entertainment complex, with afternoon and evening kitchen hours lasting well past midnight. $$ L D p LEGENDS CAFÉ 2602 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, (812) 9200786. This small, family-owned cafe, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with $1 beer every day. Daily specials rotate monthly, and Fridays are a fish-only menu. $ B L D p LOSERS812 1005 W. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 812-913-1414.

Two local musicians who saw an unfilled market niche for rock and roll in all its many permutations put their money where their chords are, and the result is live music seven days a week, a latenight kitchen, full bar, billiards, a small arcade, and corn hole. The Jeffersonville venue lies in the shadow of the Clark Memorial Bridge. $ L D pf LOUISVILLE INTERNATIONAL PUB 5343 Mitscher Ave. 3843952. A neighborhood bar with an international focus. Eclectic bar food options cover the globe with dinner and sandwich options like nachos, chili, falafel, poppers, burgers, kabobs, and shawarma.$ L D p MG'S PRIME TIME CAFÉ 7017 Global Dr., 333-0719. If you find yourself hungry on the far Southwest side of town, this café can satisfy with appetizers like jalapeño poppers or fried pickles, burgers built your way, or an range of sandwich options. $ L D pf NEAT BOURBON BAR & BOTTLE SHOP 1139 Bardstown Rd., 690-3254. This Highlands vintage Bourbon bar takes advantage of the Kentucky vintage spirits law that allows bar owners to buy, sell and trade on the secondary market. The result is Neat’s focus on old and rare bottles that people have collected over the years and now want to sell or trade. $$ L D p NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection.

The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily.

Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 2438429. $ L D pf OLD HICKORY INN 1038 Lydia St., 634-3011. John Murrow, long involved with Check’s Café, has re-opened this iconic Germantown bar, setting out to return the troubled property to its historic role as a quintessential neighborhood dive bar. $ L D p OLD LOUISVILLE TAVERN 1532 S. Fourth St., 409-6281. It’s risen from the ashes, the interior gutted and redone, a new kitchen installed, but the menu is the same as before: top-flight bar grub made from scratch. An expanded beer program with 16 new taps includes a selection of local and craft beers. $$ L D pf PARLAY 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 384-4239. $$ D p www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 63

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 64

PEARL STREET TAPHOUSE 407 Pearl Street, Jeffersonville IN, 285-0890. Located in an historic home that was saved through a preservation grant, this pub has 24 taps with a heavy focus on local breweries, with regional and national choices as well. Food choices range from pizzas to bacon-wrapped dates to corned beef grilled cheese sandwiches. Everything is fresh and nothing is deep-fried. $ L D pf PINTS&UNION 114 E. Market St., New Albany IN., 913-4647. Beer maven (and F&D contributor) Roger Baylor and partner Joe Phillips have renovated an old neighborhood bar, where the taps dispense familiar quality beers and ales, the bar crafts interesting cocktails and the bottled beer selection skews toward Belgian ales.

The small kitchen offers pub-inspired small plates with an Indian accent. $ L D p PORCH KITCHEN & BAR 280 W. Jefferson St. (Marriott), 6714246. As part of the recent renovation of the Marriott, this all-day restaurant replaces Champions Sports Grill. The name reflects the intention of the new restaurant to be a homey, welcoming downtown spot. Look for American-style comfort foods and a friendly bar. B Br L D pf RAILYARD BILLIARDS & SPORTS BAR 630 Barret Ave., 6184033. Serious pool players and rabid sports watchers will find common cause amid 4,000 square feet of fun, or put another way, 31 pool tables, three bars with craft beer and cocktails, pub fare, 26 TVs, a covered deck and live music. All this, and Mile Wide Beer Co. is just downstairs, too. $$ L D FB f RECBAR 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 509-3033, 336 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 670-5234. Family fun is the object here, with games galore: pool and ping-pong, skeeball, arcade games (for Nintendo, Sega Genesis, Super NES) and card and board games. A full bar and pub-style food, too. $$ L D pf RED YETI RESTAURANT 256 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 2885788. The small brewing system is gone; rotating craft beer taps remain, and the kitchen is as ambitious (and popular) as ever. It’s the little things, like ample street-side seating and a genuinely thoughtful kid’s menu. Appetizers like Goat Cheese Fritters and Truffle Fries lead logically to Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Brisket and a Kentuckiana Hot Brown. $$ L D pf RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111.

Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, half-pint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D f SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D pf SANGRIA BAR AT UNION 125 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 812-725-7778. This colorful and airy weekends-only bar specializing in sangria and sparkling mimosas is freestanding, but shares ownership with the bustling adjacent Union Restaurant & GameYard, just yards from the Big Four Walking Bridge. $$ BL D pf SEASONED PUB & GRILL 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 290-6215. A quintessential sports bar with TVs galore and a classic bar menu: beer cheese, tots, onion rings or fries But also strombolis and other hot sandwiches, burgers and wings, of course, and salads. $$ L D p SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery.

What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D SHOPBAR 950 Barret Ave., 709-4696. The former gas station has been converted into a small artisanal boutique and welcoming bar with a food truck — FoodShop at the rear. The menu rotates, but recently it included fried white fish, a pork jowl sandwich served on a pretzel bun, and mushroom tostadas. $ Br D pf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St. The beloved Irish Hill eatery and watering hole closed in 2020 after a 33 -year run but has been seamlessly revived by the owners of High Horse bar and Darling’s. Wings remain the draw, augmented by sandwiches, soups and salads. $$ L D p

64 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

TARTAN HOUSE 1027 E. Main St. Those bars intending to swim against the rising tide of bourbonism are advised to gie it laldy, and so we enthusiastically greet a Scotch specialist in Butchertown, with the city’s largest selection of “that other” whisky, and a cocktail selection to match—or just a wee dram or three for sipping. $$ D p TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 5888888. This spacious sports bar adds to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. $$ D pf THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659.

A Louisville legend. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this fabled Louisville saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall.

When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs and its eclectic clientele, with a reputation for the best drink pours around and limited but solid bar fare; don’t miss out on the chicken wings. (R.I.P. John Dant, 1961-2023; the Back Door abides, but without its legendary owner). $ D pf THE EARL 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-2611. This bar offers craft cocktails and upscale bar food such as spicy pimento cheese with pretzel bread, cheese and charcuterie boards, and roasted cauliflower with bleu cheese. $$ D p THE FOX DEN 3814 Frankfort Ave., 742-0068. Returning to his roots in the restaurant biz, Jared Matthews has revamped the St. Matthews Diamond Billiards space into The Fox Den. Plenty of sports-oriented fun can be found here: Ample big screen TVs, 11 pool and billiard tables, darts and live music, plus a menu of elevated bar food. Open every night till 4am. $$ L D pf

friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D pf TOASTY'S TAVERN 1258 S. Shelby St., 614-7094. An addition to the Germantown bar scene, Toasty’s addresses the needs of late night hungry imbibers with cheeseburgers and breakfast sandwiches, loaded fries, and a vegan hot dog. Signature cocktails include watermelon mint margarita and flavored daiquiris. $ D pf TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 6184829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D pf TWIN PEAKS 302 Bullitt Ln., 907-0005. A Hooters-esque “ultimate sports lodge” projects mountain cabin imagery, gourmet burgers, wings, flatbreads and sandwiches, and 29-degree beer. Did we mention televised sports? $$$ L D pf VERNON LANES 1575 Story Ave., 755-2695. The perennial Sloppy Joe abides, but it has been elevated, because the return of this lovingly restored cultural icon in Butchertown brings with it a chefdriven kitchen sourcing fresh local ingredients, lifting the triedand-true alley cuisine: dogs and suds, chicken and catfish, schnitzel and spinach dip, burgers and gutter fries—ideal for bowling, drinking or just plain people watching. $$ L D p

THE KESWICK CLUB 1127 Logan St., 640-2032. A Shelby Park bar and performance venue situated in the legendary former home of the Keswick Democratic Club (from the 1950s an apolitical stage) and much later, Red Top Gourmet Hotdogs. Food trucks (including Red Top’s) and pop-ups provide meals. $$ L D

WALK ON’S SPORTS BISTREAUX 970 E Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 812-992-9255. In college sports-speak, a “walk-on” is a non-scholarship player, and two former LSU walk-ons founded this sports bar, later welcoming football legend Drew Brees as an investor, and offering Louisiana-influenced “scratch-made dishes, wall-to-wall TVs, craft beers and cocktails.” $$$ L D p

THE LIBRARY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. By day, the Library serves coffee, lattes and tea along with freshly baked pastries. By late afternoon, it morphs into a bourbon bar with locally inspired cocktails. $ B L p

ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage games and top-flight live music plays late into the night. $ L D

THE MISFIT LOU 119 S. Seventh St., 630-2238. Downtown where Another Place sandwich shop reigned supreme for decades, “a quirky, local, neighborhood beer bar, serving up mischievous sandwiches, sausages, & spirits” has taken over. $$ D p

pf

THE PALM ROOM 1821 W. Jefferson St., 581-1251. The classic West End entertainment and dining spot is back, with a variety of special nights – Tuesday comedy, Thursday ladies’ night, Sunday brunch and jazz at night. The menu focuses on wings, salads and dinner specials. $$ D p

3RD TURN BREWING 10408 Watterson Tr., 482-3373.

Jeffersontown’s first brewery inhabits a repurposed 150-year-old church building, and offers an ever-changing roster of beer styles.

Guests are welcome to bring their own food. 3rd Turn’s second location is Oldham Gardens at 6300 Old Lagrange Rd. in Crestwood KY, boasting an acre of indoor and outdoor space at a former garden center. $ D pf

THE PEARL 1151 Goss Ave., 996-7552. The Pearl aims to be a classic neighborhood pub (not unlike Pauly’s, which it replaces). It also aims to be a spirits-focused hangout, with a bar menu limited to snacks like pickled eggs, country ham and cheese sandwiches and free popcorn or roasted nuts. In the works is a permanent food truck to be parked in the rear to expand food offerings. $$ L D pf

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174.

Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf

THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D pf

AKASHA BREWING COMPANY 909 E. Market St., 742-7770. Rick Stidham brews a full range of craft beers. Akasha is known for variations on a theme of kettle-soured Gose, as well as the scrupulously recreated Fehr’s XL, Louisville’s celebrated preProhibition Pilsner. There is no food, but numerous NuLu eateries are located within carryout and delivery distance. $ D pf

THE WATER COMPANY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 3136664. There is a 3rd-floor rooftop pool at the new Omni Hotel, and this is the bar that goes with it, also offering seasonally-inspired light bites. $$ L D p f THIRSTY HOUND SPORTS BAR 7207 Fegenbush Ln., 919-7003.

This Fern Creek hangout offer all that a sports fan could want: wings and ribs, nachos, potato skins, fried pickles, sandwiches, pork chops and steaks. $$ L D pf TIM TAM TAVERN 1022 Clarks Ln., 883-0101. Named for the 1958 Kentucky Derby winner, the Schnitzelburg/ Audubon neighborhood bar has a new look and a kitchen that serves bar staples like burgers, fried pickles and cheese curds plus pizza from Danny Mac’s Pizza. (Dan McMahon, owner of Danny Mac’s Pizza, is a partner.) $ L D p f TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1914. This Nashville-based chain in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-

APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 742-0090.

Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run this brewery in Butchertown, dedicated to fresh craft beer in a space that heats with solar, recycles and reuses materials and grains. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ f ATRIUM BREWING 1154 Logan St., 690-3069, 11203 River Beauty Loop, 290-0501. Shelby Park’s exuberant and innovative brewery touches all points on the stylistic map, from Italian Pilsner to Hazy IPA, with renowned fruit-infused sours. Daryk’s food truck provides sandwiches and fries. Atrium’s chic Norton Commons taproom opened in 2023, currently without food (but eateries are nearby). $ L D p f AWRY BREWING 1025 Barret Ave., 963-5999. This five-barrel brewhouse on the disputed border between the Highlands and Germantown began life as False Idol, alchemized to Chimera (as

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 65

twinned with the since relocated V-Grits vegan eatery), and now has gone completely “awry,” offering a balanced range of house beers along with nibbles like chicken tenders, street corn, and cheese curds (with varied sauces). $ L D pf B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Center), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D p BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 300 W. Main St., 562-0007.

BBC, one of the first, if not the first, craft breweries in town, continues to produce their beers and ales here, and to feed upscale bar food to hardy souls who come downtown for entertainment.

The Theater Square outlet at 600 S. 4th St. has been closed since the beginning of the pandemic. We are de-listing that outlet and look forward to reinstating that location in the future. $$ L D pf BUTCHERTOWN BREWING 1860 Mellwood Ave., 437-9407.

Small batch brewery and taproom located atThe Mellwood Arts Center, where Andy Cobb has garnered a determined cult following for an array of fruited sours and behemoth-scale stouts like Arise, a boozy 12% barrel-conditioned Imperial Stout. No food, but Mellwood’s vendors are nearby. $ D pf COUNTRY BOY BREWING 400 S. Second St. (Omni Hotel). At its street-level Falls City Market, the Omni Louisville brings together food and drink purveyors for hotel guests and locals alike. Country Boy Brewing’s (Lexington KY) first Louisville taproom pours house beers (Cougar Bait, Shotgun Wedding, Cliff Jumper) and bourbon, and slings pizza, subs, wings, and salads. $$ L D pf DONUM DEI BREWERY 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 5902478. Owner Rick Otey maintains that beer is a gift from god, hence the name of his craft brewery. The interior is starkly Scandinavian modern. A distilling permit has made it the area’s first “brewstillery.” $ L D p EPIPHANY BARREL HOUSE 1525 Highland Ave., 384-5758. Craft brewing on site has been delayed (its inception TBA), but the establishment is open and slinging farm-to-bar craft cocktails, bourbon, tequila and mezcal, with guest craft beers from local breweries and bar snacks (Froggy’s caramel popcorn, Red Hog salami, Kenny’s cheese spread). $$ L D pf FALLS CITY TAPROOM 901 E. Liberty St., 257-7147. This historic brand that was first brewed in 1905 has been revived (2010) and re-imagined as a modern craft beer. Now you can sip on their offerings at their new taproom and beer garden operating just east of downtown where Phoenix Hill and NuLu merge. $$ L D pf FISTFUL OF ALE 2708 Paoli Pk., New Albany IN, 557-0226. The bar attached to A Fistful of Tacos offers 20 or so taps of a wide variety of “strong-flavored” craft beers such as IPAs, stouts and porters, and unusual lagers. $$ D pf FLOYD COUNTY BREWING CO. 129 W. Main St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Walk in this new brewpub and you will find what looks like a medieval banquet hall, but scaled down to a Yorkshire public house. Brewer Jeff Coe’s repertoire includes Braun Jovi (Brown Ale), Hefe’ns Gate Hefeweizen and Vlad’s India Pale Ale, which complement perfectly menu items like fish and chips and oversized turkey legs. $ L D GALLANT FOX BREWING 2132 Frankfort Ave., 822-1988. Located in that odd Clifton intersection of Frankfort Ave., New Main St. and the railroad tracks, this brewery concocts things like blood orange blonde ale, Space Force IPA and mango-guava American pale ale. Ten guest taps feature regional brews. $$ D pf GOODWOOD BREWING + SPIRITS 636 E. Main St., 584-2739.

Located at “The Brewery Corner of Main & Clay,” where beer has been brewed continuously since 1997, Goodwood is Louisville’s biggest brewer by volume, hosting a taproom and BBQ-specialty kitchen. Goodwood’s Bourbon Barrel Stout is a style perfectly attuned to Louisville. $$ L D p GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottom-fermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pub-grub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D pf

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

GRAVELY BREWING CO. 514 Baxter Ave., 822-3202. The musically-themed taproom is adjacent to an outbuilding from the legendary Phoenix Hill Brewery; the old subterranean lagering cellars lie directly beneath. Beer styles rotate, including Sprockets (a “dry” Pils) and Debaser, a hazy IPA. Grub at Gravely is the musically-themed in-house food menu: appetizers, salads, sandwich melts, house dipping sauces and a few kid-sized items.$ L D pf GREAT FLOOD BREWING CO. 2120 Bardstown Rd, 208-0882, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 208-0882. The original Douglass Loop location is just a taproom, with no food service. The Middletown taproom occupies a former Wick’s Pizza complete with a kitchen that offers pizza and other pub fare made on site. $$ L D pf HI-WIRE BREWING 642 Baxter Ave., 717-4500. This Ashevillebased brewery has opened its first out-of-state operation in the Lower Highlands. The bar has 21 taps of Hi-Wire beer, from a variety of IPAs to seasonal brews such as S’more porter to specialties such as honey lager and chocolate macaroon stout.

Family-friendly activities on offer include table tennis, foosball, and shuffleboard. $ L D p f HOLSOPPPLE BREWING 8023 Catherine Ln., 708-1902. Rustic, family-friendly Lyndon taproom owned and operated by a husband and wife team. Holsopple’s IPAs are highly rated, although blueberries, toasted hemp seeds and cinnamon have been used to flavor a range of styles. Twinspire Pizza bakes on-site. $ D pf HOMETOWN BREWING CO. 4041 Preston Hwy., 363-4880. Tom Brown, partner in the Hometown Pizza chain, and high school friend Mark Allgeier, owner of the now-closed Cumberland Brewery, have opened this craft brewery in the space where Brown has stored his car collection, which inspire the names of his beers. His goal is to make craft beer more accessible in small towns out in the state, where Hometown Pizza has 18 scattered locations. $$$ L D pf KYROS BREWING COMPANY 2425 Portland Ave. Three couples who bonded over homebrewing during the pandemic have joined forces and ramped up their fermenters to open this small brewery, taproom and beer garden in Portland, without food, but stressing a family-friendly atmosphere. $$ D pf MILE WIDE BEER COMPANY 636 Barret Ave., 409-8139. Mile Wide’s reputation as the Hazy/New England-style IPA champions of Louisville is both deserved and slightly ironic, considering brewer/co-owner Kyle Tavares’ brewing education in Bavaria. His lagers are great, too. Tasty Neapolitan-style pizza is served by Mac’s at Mile Wide. $$ L D p MONNIK BEER CO. 1036 E. Burnett St., 742-6564. This popular Germantown microbrewery offers Euro-pub inspired menu includes three kinds of double-fried fries, pork and currant pie, and several burgers. Frequently changing guest taps join the house brews of Mild George and King George (British brown ales), His Dark Materials (stout) and Hauck’s American pilsner. $$ L D pf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING COMPANY 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 812-944-2577. NABC dates to 2002 and is the 9tholdest Hoosier brewery in continuous operation, with two dining areas serving locally renowned pizza and pasta (see the restaurant listing under “pizza”), a games arcade, guest taps, and perennial house beers like Community Dark and Elector Ale. $$ L D p NOBLE FUNK BREWERY 922 S. Second St., 755-2739. Louisville's newest brewery is in the massive former Old Louisville Krogers building. The 25-tap brewery also has a short wine and cocktail selection. The brewery’s sister concept, Noble Hearth Pizza, serves specials like "Date Night," topped with dates, bacon, spinach and spicy aioli, and "Pollo Diablo,” topped with house-made chicken sausage, jalapeños and spicy sauce. $$ D pf OLD LOUISVILLE BREWERY 625 W. Magnolia Ave., 365-4886.

Established in 2016 in an extensively remodeled historic structure, Old Louisville Brewery functions as a Cheers-level neighborhood hangout where the regulars have yet to meet a stranger. There’s an eclectic selection of house beers, both traditional and experimental, but no food. $ D pf OUR LADY OF PERPETUAL HOPS 300 Foundation Ct., New Albany IN. This brewery offers 12 taps (currently 8 house and 4 guest taps), as well as plenty of space for playing games like cornhole, darts, Jenga; pool, and video golf. If you work up an appetite, food trucks will tend your hunger on Friday and Saturday nights. $$ D

PIVOT BREWING COMPANY 1753 Bardstown Rd., 953-4001.

This Louisville satellite taproom of Pivot Brewing plans to open in September, next door to the Purrfect Day Cat Cafe. The brewery/cidery, which is a signatory to the Brewers’ Climate Declaration, will bring its beers, ciders and commitment to community outreach initiatives to this location from a solarpowered home base in Lexington, Kentucky. $ PUBLIC HOUSE BY AGAINST THE GRAIN 1576 Bardstown Rd., 409-9866. After almost 20 years of fine craft brewing, Cumberland Brews founder Mark Allgeier has passed the taps over to the guys at Against the Grain, who have redubbed the popular Highlands space the Public House. All the taps serve ATG brews (to-go growlers are available). The menu features pub grub with a twist, including burgers, paninis, pimento cheese balls and French onion soup. Brunches promise to be destination weekend events. $$ Br L D pf SHIPPINGPORT BREWING CO. 1221 W. Main St. 690-2002.

Owner and brewer Amelia Pillow located her new brewery in Portland to encourage beer drinkers to venture beyond their westof-9th-Street comfort zone. Her first brewing efforts include an American IPA, an oaked Helles Bock, a Belgian IPA and an Imperial / Double Coffee stout, among others. The food menu is geared to panini-style sandwiches and vegetable side dishes. $ L D p TEN20 CRAFT BREWERY 1020 E. Washington St., 290-6820, 11505 Park Rd., 384-8714, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 290-0187, 1400 Main St., Clarksville IN. From its sprawling multi-level ziggurat brewery complex in Butchertown, with food vendors on site, TEN20 offers a range of lagers and ales to an unfailingly high standard of quality and is busily establishing a network of neighborhood taprooms around the city. $$ L D p f TURNSTATION BREWING COMPANY 10601 Worthington Ln. (Glenn Oaks Country Club), 234-1620. Refashioning the former Oldham County Brewing premises at Glen Oaks Golf Club, owner Brad Conrad has recruited brewhouse legend Leah Dienes, brewer/owner at Apocalypse Brew Works, to create golfing-friendly (read: low ABV) beers. It’s a taproom only, but food is available through the country club. $$ D pf UPLAND BREWING CO. 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 750-1234. This Hoosier brewing operation has opened a southern outlet on the Ohio River, taking over the former Buckhead’s space, with its extensive pet-friendly patio overlooking the Louisville skyline. A full range of craft beer styles is on offer, along with a menu of hearty bar-food standards — pizza, sandwiches, burgers, wings, bison meatballs and mussels. $$ Br L Dpf WEST SIXTH NULU 817 E. Market St., 234-4733. West Sixth Brewing's (Lexington KY) spacious local taproom in NuLu Marketplace includes a small brewery, private event space and open-air courtyard. The Galley is West Sixth’s house kitchen, utilizing window service to vend Central American-influenced tacos, nachos, sliders, wings and more. $ L D p f WILD HOPS BOURBON BAR & LOUNGE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 384-2001. The name speaks to the range of offerings at this bar inside the Logan Street Market. The on-site brewery crafts its own beer, and there is an extensive cocktail menu and a large selection of bourbons and other whiskeys. $$ B L D p f

DAVE & BUSTER'S 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews), 9630940. Fun galore with arcade, billiards, sports TVs, and a 16 page menu with surprising options for every special diet like flavorful lettuce wraps, the Impossible Burger and full entrees like steaks or salmon plus expected bar fare: nachos, sliders and wings. Desserts, beers and festive cocktails of impressive size, too. $$ L D p DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s longrunning entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$ LDp HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 5629400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept?

You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D pf

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 65

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 66

JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MAIN EVENT BAR & GRILL 12500 Sycamore Station Pl., 2405555. This Dallas-based chain offers plenty of fun: bowling, laser tag, a high ropes course, billiards, video games — along with pizzas, sandwiches, full dinners and a full bar. $$ L D p MESA 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 725-7691. Mesa calls itself a “collaborative kitchen-classroom,” in which local established and aspiring chefs offer cooking demonstrations and food prep advice for a small audience, who will then eat what the chefs prepare before them. There is also a boutique selling high-end cookware and food products. $$ D p MULLIGAN'S AT GLENMARY 10200 Glenmary Farm Dr. As one facet of redeveloping the former Glenmary Country Club grounds, veteran restaurateur Ernesto “I Love Tacos” Rivera has teamed with project developer Chris Thieneman on this sports bar with chefdriven bar food inside the clubhouse. Outside, there is pickle ball, corn hole, ping pong and trash can beer pong (yes, it’s real); a putting green and driving range will arrive during phase two. $$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p OVRDRIVE GAMES 112 W. Jefferson St., 653-5853. Plenty of ways to have fun here: virtual reality car racing, ax throwing, rage rooms (where you can destroy TVs and home appliances), and immersive VR games. The food and beverages aren’t virtual though: made-toorder pizza, wings and appetizers, and a self-pour tap wall featuring 15 beers and 6 pre-mixed cocktail choices. $$ L D p PIN + PROOF 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The Omni’s bar has a cool angle. There are four bowling lanes, as well

as hors d’oeuvres to enjoy in the “the opulent and mysterious atmosphere." $ D p UNION RESTAURANT & GAMEYARD 115 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-1285. Those wanting more fun as well as some food after strolling across the Big Four bridge can find both here, near the bridge’s Indiana-side off-ramp. Burgers, of course, and brisket, pork belly and brined chicken breast sandwiches.

After eating, play iceless curling, four-way volleyball, cornhole or ping-pong. $$ L D pf

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D ADDIS ABABA ETHIOPIAN BAR & RESTAURANT 4750 Bardstown Rd., 384-6296. This modest little place joins other ethnic eating spots in the Buechel area. The menu includes a wide variety of richly seasoned Ethiopian fare including the national dish doro wat (a berbere-spiced chicken and egg stew) and many vegetarian options too. $$ B L D AFROKANZA LOUNGE 1578 Bardstown Rd., 379-5734. This Afro/Caribbean/soul food fusion restaurant and nightclub brings a new vibe to Bardstown Rd.’s restaurant row. Drinking and dancing till 4 am, with menu items like grilled red snapper and rice with peanut sauce to keep those late-night partiers fueled. $$ D p FA & ADA AFRICAN CUISINE 4806 Bardstown Rd., 777-7100.

Senegalese cuisine represents a mélange of influences, African as well as European, and this small family-owned eatery features an enticing selection of grilled chicken, lamb and tilapia; beef and fish pie; and plassas, a lamb and spinach stew. $$ L D FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 4545009. Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. $$ L D

IMANKA RESTAURANT 737 S. Eighth St., (International Mall) 2107503. Somali immigrant entrepreneur Mohamed Abbi Abdalla and his family serve their native cuisine at the International Mall.

Suggested dishes include chicken suqaar (a chicken stew-like dish) or goat seasoned with onions and green peppers. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D SENEGAMBIA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4109 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. $$ L D WOLOGISI RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 883-0054. The space that was Alwatan is now a Liberian restaurant (goat soup; torborgee, a bean stew; palm butter with fufu) that also tempts American tastes with items like Philly cheesesteak and gyros, as well. $$ L D

888 GREAT WALL 9464 Brownsboro Rd., 425-2811. Strip mall Chinese food is an accurate description of what to expect here.

Locals from the neighborhood have said good things about the garlic chicken and their crab Rangoon. $ L D A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888.

Competent cookery and careful management ensures food offerings here stay fresh and hot. The name remains the same, but service is now cafeteria style, not self-serve buffet, a change done with customer health in mind. $ L D ASIAN WOK 2235 Frankfort Ave., 822-3385. This pan-Asian spot offers a very large selection of Chinese & Japanese dishes in the stir-fried, hibachi-grilled and sushi categories. A lot of familiar things — Kung Pao chicken, pepper steak with onion, veggie fried rice, rainbow roll, hibachi steak, and so on. $$ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style, consistent commitment from the kitchen makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant al fresco dining experience. $$$ L D pf CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BISTRO 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222, 9246 Westport Rd., 425-1818. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA CHEF 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 384-5322. Pretty standard Chinese choices can be found at this new store in the South End. Eat in or carry out. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D CHINA DRAGON 8507 Terry Rd., 995-9897. The far southwest corner of the city can get its Chinese table hot food fix here. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ LD CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA STAR 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 896-1818. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ LD

66 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 67

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628, 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. Fans of this somewhat funky Chinese place post positive notices about the quality of its food. No strange Asian dishes here, just familiar Chinese hot table fare that Americans recognize. $ L D CHUNG KING PALACE 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. Every neighborhood seems to need a Chinese steam table outlet serving up Asian dishes familiar to Americans. Double Dragon does that job for its neighborhoods. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3135 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD DRAGON CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-1885. This Prospectarea Chinese restaurants offers many familiar dishes. East End fans say the service is quick and the food above-average tasty. $ L D DRAGON CITY 6413 Greenwood Rd., 935-6111. It used to be First Wok. It still is a strip mall Chinese-American place with a standard menu of crab Rangoon, fried rice, lo mein dishes, and a wide variety of stir-fries. $ L D EAST STAR BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 3681833. $ L D GREAT WALL 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D GREEN TEA CHINESE RESTAURANT 2206 State St., New Albany IN, 812-924-7780. Noted locally for its fresh vegetables, mei fun (rice noodles, particularly Singapore-style) and sizeable tofu portions, Green Tea does a brisk carry-out trade from its shop on State Street near the hospital and I-265 interchange. $ L D

table stir fry joint. There is an American menu, but those in the know will ask for the 14-page Szechuan menu, featuring such interesting things as pig ear in sesame oil, hot and spicy intestines, spicy diced rabbit foot, frog legs, beef maw and tendon Szechuan style — one of the most popular choices, the manager said. $ L D p JASMINE ASIAN BISTRO 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 618-3000. The owners of Jasmine Essential Chinese on English Villa Dr. have gone more upscale with this bistro-style location. Expect the same authentic Chengdu-style Sichuan cuisine (be adventurous!) and well-executed Americanized dishes, sushi and other offerings. $$ L Dp JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070, 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 618-1601. This fine Asian restaurant across from Mid-City Mall has opened a suburhan site too. Both serve familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as authentic Taiwanese offerings. Duck dishes are cooked in three different styles — Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing. $$ L D pf JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8550. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, familyrun Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f

ORIENTAL CAFÉ 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this long-standing St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN 288-0774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-8430, 13311 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3980, 10600 Westport Rd., 425-1678. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have four. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 4997788. $ L D RICE BOX 6810 Southside Dr., 380-2209. This typical Chinese hot table provides South End residents with the kind of Chinese food you would expect at budget prices. $ L D SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sit-down Chinese restaurant has a large and eclectic menu, with lots of spicy dishes and daily double shot specials at the inviting bar. Now offering delivery to Norton Commons and adjacent suburbia. $$ L D p YEN CHING 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOKI BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-2277. A Chinese food-oriented buffet, with sushi as well, offers more options near the Jeffersontown Industrial Park along the Blankenbaker Rd. corridor. $$ L D

HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI BUFFET 5372 Dixie Hwy., 449-8688. This far South Louisville Asian buffet gets strong positives from locals who appreciate its cleanliness, its range of choices (including hibachi grilled meats to order and sushi) and a buffet bar that is kept freshly loaded. $ L D p HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788.

Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HING WANG CHINESE RESTAURANT 2123 E. Spring St. New Albany IN, 812-542-2728. No one in New Albany can remember exactly when the unassuming Hing Wang was launched in a strip mall on the east side of town; perhaps it dates to the advent of home video, but in truth, probably around 2002. The carry-out Chinese dishes (primarily standard Cantonese fare) have been flying out the door ever since. $ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 367-8828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check out the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace offers familiar Chinese food choices, as well as a long list of Chef’s Specials, with names in Chinese characters as well as English (a sure sign you are in for authentic Chinese fare). Dim sum is offered daily, but on weekends it is served from a traditional rolling cart. $$ Br L D p JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. Like many Chinese restaurants, Jasmine is in a strip mall, but this is not just another hot

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 67

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 68

ASIAN / FILIPINO SARAP FILIPINO EATERY 712 Brent St. (The Village Market).

Filipino cuisine is under-represented in Louisville, and Sarap’s lumpia, pancit, adobo and other dishes are a welcome corrective, along with a weekend-only silog (garlic fried rice and egg) brunch. $$ L D pf XIAN’S KITCHEN 12338 Shelbyville Rd., 812-774-5062. Husband and wife owners Jovy and Christian Flores showcase the diversity of Filipino cuisine (with native, Indian, Chinese, Spanish and American influences), featuring noodle dishes like Pancit and Palabok; Menudo (tomato-based pork stew); Pinakbet (vegetable medley); varied grilled meats; and an assembly of pastries and desserts. $$ L D

AJI SUSHI AND ASIAN CUISINE 5610 Outer Loop, 618-1781.

Okolona area residents can now get their sushi fix. The extensive menu offerings include egg rolls, salads and soups, noodle, rice and curry dishes, and tempura, as well as a large variety of raw and cooked sushi preparations. $ L D p ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Arata is a dedicated sushi place, with only a few items that fall outside of the maki, nigri and sashimi offerings. The elegant modern interior, and the commitment to the freshest ingredients have been drawing in fans from beyond the East End. $$ L D p ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses a neighborhood sushi spot that also serves grilled dishes and tempura. $ L D ASIANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. This ambitious Asian restaurant in Fern Creek offers an extensive sushi selection, hibachi meals, various noodle choices and even a few Korean dishes such as bulgoki and bi bim bap. $$ L D p BENTO ASIAN KITCHEN + SUSHI 12951 Shelbyville Rd., 8221202. Order from an assortment of teriyaki or fried bento boxes, rice or noodle bowls, poke bowls or sushi and sashimi at this ambitious Middletown newcomer. $$ L D p f BLUE BAY SEAFOOD & SUSHI 4322 Poplar Level Rd., 919-8994.

The owners of the defunct Hibachi Sushi Buffet and Ville Chicken restaurants have combined elements of their previous menus in South Louisville, offering seafood by the pound, seafood combo dinners, chicken wings, hibachi rice, sushi and even sushi tacos. $$ L D f DAISUKI SUSHI 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 434-2395, 1604 Bardstown Rd., 434-2395. The original location in Logan Street Market has been joined by a sit-down venue (with bar and expanded menu) in the Highlands. At both, owner and Thailand native Nattaya Reznicek has all the rolls (try the Heart Attack), spicing the proceedings with touches of home, like red curry. $ L D p DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1534 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444, 129 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-8600. Founder Toki Masubuchi’s eclectic flair for culinary fusion is simultaneously adventurous and rooted in tradition, and with the original Louisville DKD’s move to much larger digs in the Highlands at the former Café Mimosa, her forever creative tacos, bibimbap, quesadillas and sushi rolls have space to breathe. A full bar boasts numerous cocktail, craft beer and sake selections. $$ L D pf ENSO 1756 Frankfort Ave., 384-7931. Meaning “full circle,” it’s a fresh blend of traditions from Chef Lawrence Weeks and the team at North of Bourbon, who combine Japanese techniques and influences with Southern ingredients, and build on a shared legacy of hospitality characterizing both influences). For instance, consider yakitori (skewers) with specially prepared okra instead of chicken. $$$ D pf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D p f GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 749-8878. A one-stop Asian restaurant. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai 68 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D p HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glasswalled tofu-making room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanesetrained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D p JUNO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 5406 Antle Dr., 409-7094, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 632-2777. A wide-ranging menu of Japanese options make these two restaurants interesting destinations. Diners have plenty of sushi options, as well as hibachi dinners, yakisoba, udon and ramen noodle dishes, tonkatsu and tempura. $$ L D p KABUKI HIBACHI & RAMEN 2784 Meijer Rd., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 590-3430, 253 Spring St. Jeffersonville IN, 812-924-7197, 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 812-924-7324. A full range of Japanese dishes include sashimi and sushi, hibachi grilled meats and seafood, ramen, bento boxes and seaweed salad.

Kabuki’s third area location in downtown Jeffersonville offers expanded seating and an anime motif. $$ L D FB$$ L D p KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-1870.

Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their sliceand-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D p L & J ASIAN CUISINE 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8399. A slight change of focus at this East End Asian fusion spot adds Hawaiian BBQ dishes and a wide selection of ramen preparations to the eclectic menu. $$ L D f MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D f MISAWA HIBACHI & SUSHI BAR 7931 Bardstown Rd., 290-1780 The hibachi grills here are not for show, just for grilling, which keeps prices lower than other Japanese steak houses. Rodeleo See, a sushi chef with almost two decades of experience runs the sushi bar. $$ L D p MT. FUJI 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quick-eating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot serves all the popular maki and nigri near Bowman Field. $$ L D POKEHANA 436 W. Market St., 996-7994. Poke, an increasingly popular Hawaiian raw fish salad, is given a fast-casual Asian fusion twist here in the space that had been Chop Chop Salads. Choose your combination of protein and vegetables and toppings such as ginger, jalapeno and seaweed salad. Also fried rice, bibimbab and noodle-bab, made with sweet potato noodles.$$ L RAMEN HOUSE 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 709-4374.

Luckily for those seeking to join Japanese film director Juzo Itami “at the intersection of cinephilia and ramen obsession,” chef Jonathan Ham’s popular eatery adjacent to Baxter Avenue Theatres packs them in for traditional ramen, rice bowls, steamed buns, handmade gyoza and killer tonkatsu.. $$ D RENSHOKU RAMEN 1161 S. Second St., 249-2402. Chef Nicholas Robey’s obsession with ramen (“simple working-class food”) took him to culinary school, then to Japan, in constant pursuit of singledish mastery, now on display at Robey’s very first bricks ‘n’ mortar eatery in Old Louisville. $$ D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Veteran restaurateur Coco Tran looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit

table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 7081500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro.

Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D p SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D SAMURAI 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Middletown gets some artistic sushi, as well as hibachi-grilled steak and seafood. Teppanstyle (food cooked on an iron griddle) lunch and dinner entrees are a specialty. $$ L D p SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 4795550. The remodeled Highlands location has an expanded kitchen, new sushi bar and new fixtures, giving trendy, glitzy Sapporo new bona fides as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ L D p SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 4995700. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D p STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 7258444. Jeffersonville joins the sushi craze with its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ LD SUSHI MASTER 9415 Norton Commons Blvd., 890-5157. This traditional Japanese restaurant offers sashimi, classic sushi rolls, noodle dishes such as udon and cold soba and entrees such as teriyaki chicken, and grilled fish. A few Korean dishes such as bulgogi are on offer too. $$ L D pf TOGO SUSHI 700 Lyndon Ln., 883-0666. ToGo offers primarily drive-thru sushi-to-go, but it does have a five-seat bar and three two-top tables inside. Owner Chet Gurun also owns Samurai Sushi & Hibachi in Middletown and is also part owner of Oishii Sushi near Bowman Field. If sushi isn’t your thing, there are items like fried oysters, fried calamari and shrimp tempura, as well as some vegetarian options. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171.

It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO JAPANESE RAMEN SUSHI 5023 Mud Ln., 290-4725. In southernmost Louisville, an expansive and enticing array of sushi, sashimi and ramen (check out the special sushi lunch offering), along with appetizers, hibachi, fried rice and bobo tea. $$$ L D TOMO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-0200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi.

Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p TSUBAKI SUSHI & BAR 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A new addition to Jasmine, many people’s favorite Chinese restaurant in town. Look for both raw and cooked two-piece nigiri and threepiece Sashimi, a variety of vegetable rolls and deep fried rolls, and special rolls almost beyond counting. $$ L D p WHITE BUDDHA 12907 Factory Ln., 742-9719. Hence the eternal question: Can a White Buddha really sling the Blue Grass Rolls?

Find out at this Japanese-style steak, hibachi, and sushi emporium in the East End, boasting a huge menu that includes a “greatest hits” card of Asian appetizers, but non-alcoholic drinks only. $$$ LD YAMATO JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 590-1380. A lot of Japanese food preparations are on the menu at this southern Indiana restaurant, located between State Street and Green Vallley Road. Offerings include: ramen bowls and bento boxes, yaki soba and sushi rolls, and steak, chicken or seafood hibachi grilled dishes. $$ L D

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 69

father. The range of Thai cuisine embraces Pad Thai, Tom Yum Goong and the editor’s favorite, Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Noodles). $$$ D pf FRESH OUT THE BOX 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 3033322. This food truck serving Asian fusion street food now has a stand in the Logan Street Market too, serving well-crafted tacos, rice and noodle bowls and Korean dishes. $$ L D GOGI 1055 KOREAN BBQ 1055 Bardstown Rd., 747-4644. The venue is an old neighborhood theater, and the bill of fare is Korean, specifically a grill-your-own-table-side eatery with a full bar (soju, anyone?) The choices are many, among them galbi, bulgogi, pork belly, squid and jumuluk, as well as varied banchan (sides). $$$$ D p KIM & BAB 3012 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN, 7259844. This little Korean restaurant is getting rave notices from locals who love the mandu (dumplings), japchae (a noodle dish), galbi (short ribs) and dak-kangjung (fried marinated boneless chicken in a spicy sweet and sour sauce). More familiar things like bulgogi and fried rice too. $$ L D KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D p f LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D MIKI’S KOREAN RESTAURANT AND KARAOKE BAR 2230 Frankfort Ave., 708-1104. Karaoke means “hollow orchestra” in Japanese, but owner Mikyong “Miki” Miller’s formula is fully orchestrated: simple and fast Korean food (fried rice, ramen, Korean-in-a-cup), a complete bar, and an exhaustively equipped karaoke stage. $$ D pf NAMI MODERN KOREAN STEAKHOUSE 835 E. Main St., 6902067. Famed Chef Edward Lee’s Korean culinary heritage is celebrated at the Martin on Main building in Butchertown, offering traditional dishes as well as contemporary interpretations of barbecue, bibimbap, kimchi, banchan and many others. The main dining room, bar and lounge are downstairs, while the upstairs features a private dining space along with tables equipped with Korean table grills. $$$$ D p NEIGHBORS NOODLES 835 E. Main St., 690-2067. Chef Edward Lee’s carryout-only noodle shop is an offshoot of his Nami restaurant in Butchertown, and appropriately offers a rotating menu of noodle dishes, which might (or might not) be composed of udon, kalguksu, saimin, soba, myun and even the most familiar noodle of all, “pasta.” $$$ D p OHCHAE, KOREAN FUSION CUISINE 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 812-286-2830. Working from the Mesa storefront, OhChae combines traditional Korean dishes like kimchi soup, bibimbap, and galbi (marinated short ribs) with American-influenced fusion items, including bulgogi subs, a Korean burger, and gamja fries. $$ Br L D RICE BOWL 3114 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 590-6786. Rice Bowl is another addition to the restaurant row area near the IUS campus. It serves Korean and Asian dishes. You will find clay pot bibimbap, chicken curry rice, several varieties of ramen. $$ L D SARANG 1908 Eastern Pkwy., 709-4282. The store on the Eastern Parkway side of the Schuster Building most recently was a Ce Fiori yogurt shop, but it now serves Korean food such as bibimbap, mandoo, ramen and dak-kangjung. Bubble tea is back, too. $ L D TOP 1 KOREAN BBQ & HOTPOT 1801 Bardstown Rd., 208-9659.

In Korea, jeongol (hot pot) is the practice of cooking meat, vegetables and seasonings in a communal pot atop one’s table, not unlike an Asian fondue. Top 1’s hot pots can be found boiling at the Highlands corner fabled for its predecessors The Bard’s Town, Judge Roy Bean’s and The Fat Cat Deli & Pub. $$$ D p

ALL THAI’D UP 4812 Brownsboro Center, 653-7437. Times change and “Kleindeutschland” (the venerable but departed Gasthaus) is now “Little Thailand” courtesy of Katherine “Chef Kat” Aphaivongs, raised in Bangkok to an American mother and Thai

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

BAHN THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 365-2776. “Bahn” means “home” in Thai, and the Klomklao family business has two domiciles: Bahn Thai in Fern Creek (the original), and of more recent vintage, Bahn Thai & M at Holiday Manor Center, succeeding the beloved but departed Thai Café. Both locations prepare the gamut of hearty, flavorful Thai soups, salads, noodles, rice dishes and curries. $$ L D p f MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jefferson-ville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ LD SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown.

Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TANTHAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The menu covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D TIME 4 THAI 2206 Frankfort Ave., 996-7899. The elegantly redone interior is matched by some unusually elegant Thai dishes, such as the volcano Cornish hen, a whole bird, marinated with Thai herbs and spicy chili sauce, which is flambéed at the table. All dishes are cooked to order, so choose your spice level. $$ L D p

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese.

Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D CHIK'N & MI 1765 Mellwood Ave., 890-5731. A brief try at two locations has resulted in consolidation at the former Bistro 1860 location, which is serving the original Asian-inspired comfort foods — Laotian spiced fried chicken, hearty ramen noodle soups and an extensive selection of sake, craft beer and cocktails. $$ Br D p DISTRICT 6 3930 Shelbyville Rd., 873-5561. Named after the veteran restaurant owners’, the Thai family’s, native district in Saigon, District 6 features traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on their mother Nga’s recipes, updated with modern influences. Look for items like the bone-in short rib pho, spicy fried hot wings, beef lettuce wraps, red curry chicken and Vietnamese spicy street corn, as well as noodle bowls — and whole crispy fried fish. $$ L D p EATZ VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT 2244 Frankfort Ave., 7854550. This Vietnamese spot has moved from Germantown into larger quarters at the former Fork & Barrel on Frankfort Avenue.

You’ll still find Pho and Bahn mi sandwiches, of course, but also other noodle dishes, a bento box and crispy tofu in chili sauce. $$$$ L D pf LEMONGRASS RESTAURANT 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7110, 2956 Richland Ave., 614-7448. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D

NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PHO BA LUU 1019 E. Main St., 384-6822. This Butchertown restaurant focuses on Vietnamese street food such as pho, the classic noodle soup, and banh mi sandwiches. The very cool repurposed space was once a welding shop; its large open spaces and high ceilings make for an elegant place to sip sweet iced coffee or munch on an Imperial roll or tuck into a rice or noodle bowl.

Fast casual service at lunch; after happy hour the full bar and large patio have full service. $$ L D pf PHO CAFÉ 1704 Barstown Rd., 916-2129. Local restaurant veteran Tuan Phan, who worked at Asiatique for 18 years along with a stint at Dish on Market, is serving Vietnamese-style home cooking.

There is pho, of course, the signature noodle soup, as well as other noodle and rice dishes, banh mi sandwiches and a small selection of stir-fries. $$ L D PHO PHI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 290-3019. A Vietnamese restaurant joins the choices in Shelbyville Road Plaza, setting up shop in the former Home Run Burgers site. Phos, of course, and Bahn mis, and rich Vietnamese coffee. $$ L D VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D VINBUN VIETNAMESE BISTRO 12422 Shelbyville Rd., 708-1470.

Middletown now has access to the delights of Vietnamese cooking.

Run by husband and wife team Vinh Nguyen and Dieu Dinh — both Vietnamese immigrants. The restaurant serves a variety of authentic Vietnamese noodle dishes, Banh mi sandwiches, salads and appetizers. This spot has already gained a loyal following for its authenticity and quality. $$ L D

BOUDREAUX’S CAJUN COOKING 11816 Shelbyville Rd. Inside the tiny Boudreaux's New Orleans Style Sno-Balls shack in Middletown, you can now find take-out only New Orleans style spicy gumbo (lunch only). Eat on the patio, or take home to reheat for supper. $ L f J. GUMBO’S 1616 Grinstead Dr., 873-5006, 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046. Former jockey Billy Fox has come full circle with his chain of popular quick-service Cajun restaurants — his most recent outlet is in the little house near Bardstown Rd., where it all began. Among the hearty, affordable dishes that have made J. Gumbo’s a go-to spot is the drunken chicken, still a favorite. $ B L Df SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D pf TAYLOR'S CAJUN MEAT CO. 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 7250039. A few blocks down Grant Line Rd. from I-265, Taylor’s is a spic-and-span shop run by a family from Lafayette, LA. Daily plate lunches often sell out quickly. A great variety of fresh and frozen savory Cajun specialties (sausages, stuffed everything) are always available, as well as crawfish and shrimp pies, gumbo and étouffée, and special orders. This place is the real deal. $ L

CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 317 W. Woodlawn Ave., 434-7711. The diverse Woodlawn neighborhood welcomes the area’s first Haitian restaurant. The boldly-painted exterior is decorated with cool Haitian folk art; the menu offers generous portions of jerk chicken, fried red snapper, goat, and hearty sides of rice, beans and plantains. $ L D CHICAGO’S JERK TACOS 227 S. 30th St., 780-9410. From this “ghost kitchen” Chef Aaron Williams offers a variety of wraps, quesadillas, tacos, and burgers featuring his signature jerk sauce.

Takeout and catering only. $$ L D CUBAN RESTAURANT AND BAKERY 5614 Preston Hwy., 9197074. Among the range of Latin restaurants along Preston Hwy, www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 69

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 70

this unassuming place has garnered many fans, for the satisfying Cuban food in the café, as well as for its baked goods. $ B L D EDEN & KISSI 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-9102. Another addition to the growing ethnic food choices in Buechel, this Afro-Caribbean restaurant serves several kinds of jerk chicken, chicken curry, and peri-peri wings. Daily specials include Ivory Coast style jollof rice, and a shrimp burger. $$ L D GRIYO CARIBBEAN RESTAURANT 519 W. Oak St., 822-3046.

Haitian cuisine draws from French, African and Middle Eastern influences, which Griyo blends and vends from a small house in Old Louisville: bouyon soup, fried plantains, cornmeal with beans, stewed goat, creole jerk chicken and many more dishes seldom seen hereabouts. $$ L HABANA BLUES RESTAURANT & LOUNGE 6112 Preston Hwy., 842-2262. After more than a decade in downtown New Albany, restaurateur Leo Lopez—who came to America in 1994 as a penniless refugee aboard a hand-built raft—has moved his tapasdriven Cuban kitchen to Louisville for expansion into a full-blown, Latin-themed restaurant, nightclub and concert complex at the former Trixie’s (opening in September). $$ L D p HAVANA BAKERY CAFÉ 5510 Fern Valley Rd., 509-3410. This Cuban spot offers sweets and savories: tres leches cake, coquitos (coconut-caramel rolls) and flan; sandwiches or meat and fish combos (ropa vieja, albondigas, pechuga de pollo). $$ L D HAVANA NIGHT RESTAURANT & CABARET 649 S. Fourth St., 936-4067. From platters of Pargo Frito (fried snapper) to doses of Canchanchara (aguardiente cocktail), the tastes of 1950s Havana now occupy a downtown space familiar to local foodie old-timers as Café Kilimanjaro and Sapporo. Fast lunch items, tapas and entrees are available, as well as kid-size portions. $$$ L D pf HAVANA RUMBA 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at this consistently busy Cuban restaurant.

Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600.

The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D pf ISLAND BREEZE JAMAICAN & AMERICAN BBQ 1991 Brownsboro Rd., 290-1104. Kingston native Shyamala Mothersill’s Jamaican specialties include jerk chicken, oxtails, beef patties and curried goat. On the soul food side of the menu, barbecued ribs and fried chicken are standouts. And all at very affordable prices. $$ L D

OPEN CARIBBEAN KITCHEN 4735 Poplar Lever Rd., 601-1332.

Owner/Chef Ernest Pierre is originally from Haiti, but his interpretation of “open” implies a mélange of Caribbean influences crossing national boundaries. The ingredient list for Pierre’s popular Rasta Pasta’s (penne pasta, jerk chicken, sausage, shrimp, onions, peppers and homemade sauce) hints at the many flavor combinations. $$ L D ROOF TOP GRILL 414 W. Oak St., 618-2287. This Jamaican restaurant serves the native cuisine of owner Courtney Johnson.

Look for jerk chicken, curry with chicken, turkey, goat and rib tips, along with Kentucky favorites like fried catfish, barbecue and beef patties. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 4519020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pf BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 883-3153.

This Provençal-style brasserie serves classical and Southern French specialties, the comfort food enjoyed by owner Guy Genoud in his childhood home of Cannes, France. Dine like the French do on fish and seafood, a variety of meat and fowl, a daily "plat du jour", French cheese and charcuterie, specialty cocktails, draft beer and a large selection of French wine. $$$ L D pf

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloon is as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. Serving classic Irish fare. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222. Molly Malone’s, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green, has anchored the dining scene in the Lower Highlands for many years. You’ll find fish and chips, corned beef and cabbage, bangers and mash and shepherd’s pie, along with Irish interpretations of American bar food like wings and pretzels and beer cheese.$$ L D pf MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. $ L D pf O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373.

The O’Shea family has been operating an Irish pub since the early 1900s. Today they have one of the most popular pubs on the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Diners of all ages like its burgers, flat breads, sandwiches and fish and chips. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D pf

JAMAICAN JERK CENTER 2220 Hikes Ln., 354-5829. Jamaica natives Ian and Paulene Coram began by serving tastes of home from a food truck before establishing this storefront in multicultural Buechel. Jerk chicken, oxtails and curries (chicken and goat) are among their specialties of the house. $$ L D

PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex.

Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D pf

KOKO + RAE CARIBBEAN KITCHEN 1511 Bardstown Rd. Fast-casual touches from the multinational Caribbean cosmos, with a focus on Jamaican specialties like beef patties, oxtails and jerk chicken (the latter also available Americanized with waffles). $$$ L D f

SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 454-3919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D pf

LA BODEGUITA DE MIMA 725 E. Market St., 690-5016. Adjacent to the AC Hotel in NuLu, this Cuban restaurant is the latest restaurant concept from Fernando Martinez and his Olé Restaurant group. Cigar lounge, rum bar, 1950s Havana décor and a menu of classics from family recipes, like Cuban tamal con Puerco, pan con bistec and some delectable desserts. $$ D pf

THE RAVEN 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. The St. Matthews outpost of Molly Malone’s has been remodeled and rebranded to offer “an authentic, Irish cultural experience.” Gaelic legends and myths inspire the decor, and rugby, hurling and football (by which they mean soccer) are the sports that fans come watch while chowing down on shepherd’s pie and fish and chips. The extensive menu offers American food as well as Irish dishes. $$$ L D p f

MI SUEÑO 3425 Bardstown Rd., 709-4526. This honest little bodega and hot table restaurant serving Latin groceries and a variety of Cuban-centric Latin dishes was, as the name translates, the owner’s dream. $ B L D MOJITO IN HAVANA 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1959. Long-time Louisville favorite Havana Rumba has resurfaced with a new identity in the location previously occupied by Waylon’s Food & Firewater. The roomier location of this Cuban favorite offers diners a two-tier menu that brings together the best selections from both Mojitos Tapas Restaurant and Havana Rumba. Look for some new offerings, as well, including shrimp croquettes and a selection of flatbreads. $$ B Br L D pf

70 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D BAR VETTI 727 E. Market St., 883-3331. The crew behind Feast BBQ and Royals Hot Chicken scored another win when bar Vetti, an upscale casual Italian eatery, opened in the 800 Building. Now

moved to a larger space in the AC Hotel in NuLu, bar Vetti continues to draw fans with the smashed meatball burger, the popular eggplant Parmesan sandwich, pastas and pizza. $$$$ L D pf BELLA ROMA AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. Bella Roma adds classic Italian-American choices in a pleasant environment in the midst of New Albany’s growing restaurant row. $$$ L D f BELLISSIMO ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2217 Steier Ln., 690-2040.

In culinary terms, Bellissimo (“very beautiful”) is where Abbas Jamshidi, a native of Iran who learned to cook from Agostino Gabriele at Vincenzo’s, offer Italian favorites (alfredo and ravioli) alongside seldom seen Afghan dishes like mantu and bolani. $$ L D BLACK OLIVE ITALIAN RESTAURANT / EL NOPAL 2745 Crittenden Dr., 690-2014. Sharing space with the Mexicanflavored El Nopal at the former Cardinal Hall of Fame, Black Olive’s menu offers varied takes on traditional Italian-American comfort food—ravioli, parmigiana, alfredo, pesto—in addition to a more substantive collection of seafood dishes and steaks. $$ L D p BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family Italian-American restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D p CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4122218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D pf CIAO 1201 Payne St., 690-3532. Chef/owner Bridgette Pizzonia’s family tree is rooted in Calabria, the toe in Italy’s boot. An established Irish Hill favorite, Ciao’s lunch options include Siciliano hot brown, panini con prosciutto and Italian beef sandwiches alongside salads and pizza. Chicken Marsala, crab arancini and linguine alla vongole are among a wide range of traditional Italian dinner choices. $$ L D pf DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. Reminiscent of a menu that harks back to the redchecked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants.

Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f GRASSA GRAMMA 2210 Holiday Manor Ctr., 333-9595. Kevin Grangier’s newest dining idea is his take on familiar Italian food, just like your robust Italian grandmother made, only better. There’s lasagne, of course, and spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli and gnocchi and several other pastas, but prime beef filet with Gorgonzola sauce, veal scallopini, whole roasted branzino, and pizza, too. $$$$ Br L D p MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797.

Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, wellfashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with woodfired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ Br L D pf MILANO ITALIAN RESTAURANT 11300 Westport Rd., 742-2926.

This family-owned restaurant with locations in Shelbyville and Mt. Washington has opened its first Louisville location. The menu, based on owner Jonathan Balderas’s grandmother’s recipes, features items like calzones, thick- and thin-crust pizzas, pasta and more than a dozen house specials with all dough, sauces and dressings made from scratch in house. $$ L D p MILANTONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1600 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8210. This East End restaurant serves up all you would want in a casual Italian eatery: mozzarella sticks and calamari; subs and Philly cheesesteaks; pizzas and calzones; and a dozen or so different pastas. $$ L D p OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 581-1070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D p OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 339-7190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 71

properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D p PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Start with fried artichokes, a Roman specialty. Opt for the grilled Romaine salad, then the gnocchi with spicy sausage. The grilled veal chop is a fine choice, and finish with tiramisu. $$$ L D pf ROC RESTAURANT 1327 Bardstown Rd., 459-7878. New York City chef/restaurateur Rocco Cadolini has transformed a Highlands building into an elegant upscale restaurant, with a handsome pergola in the front garden. The first floor has a large bar and casual dining, and upstairs sees a more formal white tablecloth space with several private dining rooms. Here you will find authentic Italian food, served with flair. Now open for lunch and the “disco brunches” are becoming legendary. $$$ D pf SARINO 1030 Goss Ave., 822-3777. Owners and brothers, Carmelo and Michael Gabriele, the next generation of the noted Gabriele family (owners of the highly revered Vincenzo’s), have taken over the short-lived Goss Ave. Pub space for their casual, authentic Italian restaurant that emphasizes fresh pasta and Neapolitan pizza, something Germantown had been lacking. The menu also features Sicilian street fare, Italian cheeses paired with charcuterie, and traditional entrees. $$ D p SILVIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 104 Fairfax Ave., 883-6369.

Owned by one of the Melillo family, fondly remembered for their NuLu retaurant before NuLu became popular, this St. Matthews spot evokes the classic New Jersey style Italian restaurants of the “Big Night” era: baked pasta dishes, cheese-stuffed rice balls, pasta fagiole, and eggplant Parmesan. $$ L D p SPAGHETTI SHOP 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9445400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D THE BLACK ITALIAN 2009 Highland Ave., 690-8914.

Unpretentious Italian home-cooking is the style at this Highlands spot. Choose from six pasta dishes, grilled meatballs and chicken wings, and sub sandwiches. $$$ L D TOWN 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. The former Southern Indiana branch of the Come Back Inn has a new identity and a menu still focused on pasta dishes and pizzas with several new salads, sandwiches and a revamped appetizer selection. Other entrees include items like chicken piccata and Greek lamb pasta. $$ L D p TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308.

Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced Italian-American fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D p VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. Chef and co-owner Josh Moore has revised his menu after an inspirational tour of Italy, and brings in fantastic whole fish for seafood specials on Fridays. His pasta extruder allows him to do things like squid ink fettuccine.

Volare continues to be a top spot for suave Italian dining. Moore supplies his kitchen with vegetables he raises himself on his Taylorsville farm. $$$ D pf

BARCELONA BISTRO BAR 10415 Taylorsville Rd., 614-6055.

Jeffersontown’s atmospheric Spanish restaurant provides a rare Louisville-area glimpse into the Iberian culinary ethos, with characteristic dishes like Catalan-style spinach, lamb stew, Serrano ham croquettes, albondigas (pork meatballs) and octopus on boiled potatoes, among other items. $$$ Br D p CURED RESTAURANT & SALUMERIA 637 E. Main St., 653-7411.

Cuban immigrant Alvio Lapinet’s traditionally preserved ham, soppressata, guanciale, chorizo and prosciutto, accompanied by diverse cheeses and all the embellishments of the contemporary charcuterie, with crafty cocktails and wine to accompany. $$ B L Dp MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 4250949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D pf

APNA CAFÉ 11322 Maple Brook Dr., 690-7555. This Indian café attached to the neighboring grocery offers a colorful and aromatic assortment of curries and more. $$ L D BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D f CHAMLING KITCHEN & BAR 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Another entrepreneurial immigrant family has opened Louisvillians’ taste buds to more ethnic possibilities. In the former Empress of China space, the Rai family serves standard Chinese hot table dishes, but also adds Nepalese and Indian fare. $ L D p CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 2544363. Northern Indian cuisine with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish).

Also selections of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ L D DAKSHIN SOUTH INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. This Indian restaurant has won many fans with its aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p DEAPSTER502 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 795-2227.

Deap Patel’s “India-meets-world” salsas and sauces were such a hit at Logan Street Market that he enlisted his family and created a restaurant there, serving staples like biryani and vindaloo, along with cross-cultural tikka tacos, vegan tikka and a full complement of dessert items. $$ L D p f EGGHOLIC 1947 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 690-2116. This small Chicago chain boasts that its dishes are just like those found on Indian lahris (street carts). The menu offers egg dishes prepared in various styles of Indian cuisine, as well as sandwiches, rice dishes and curries. $$ B Br L D p HYDERABAD HOUSE LOUISVILLE 12412 Shelbyville Rd., 4058788. The first of this international chain of Indian restaurants to arrive in Louisville, this Middletown restaurant boasts that its Indian food is more authentic than other restaurants, with over 200 dishes on its menu, including several biryanis, curries, masalas and naan. $$ L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765.

One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D f KATHMANDU KITCHEN AND BAR 3825 Bardstown Rd., 2021481. Named for the capital city of Nepal, this crisp, modern place in Buechel serves Nepalese food (a sort-of fusion of Chinese and Indian cuisines). Expect dishes such as pakoras, biruanis and even chow mein, but also Nepali items such as pork sakuwo (spiced pork chunks cooked on skewers), fried mo-mo (a kind of dumpling with dipping sauce) and khasikomaasu ra bhata, an aromatic stew with curried accents. $$ L D pf SANKALP LOUISVILLE 9008 Taylorsville Rd., 690-8355. The Guinness Book of World Records credits a Sankalp franchise somewhere (the chain is headquartered in India) for creating the longest dosa (a type of crepe) in the world. The menu is also pretty long, with dozens of dishes, including uthappa, rava, idli, chaat and more than 35 different curries. $$ L D SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SHREEJI INDIAN VEGETARIAN STREET FOOD 1986 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-4000. The extensive, completely vegetarian menu of this East End restaurant looks to the street food of India for dishes not often seen here: a variety of chaats, masala pav, hakka, dosa and even an aloo mutter sandwich, filled with a blend of potato, peas and a balance of savory spices. $$ L D

TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f TANDOORI FUSION 4600 Chamberlain Ln., 255-2590. Owner Purna Veer offers authentic Indian cuisine with a locally-sourced flair in the East End (tandoori, biryanis and seldom-seen dumplings called Karvepaku Manchurian), using Indian vegetables grown on his Oldham County farm; the restaurant’s chicken, goat and lamb are certified Halal. As a bonus, Veer has “hired” a robot to deliver food and bus tables, the Louisville area’s first such laborsaving innovation. $$ B L D pf TIKKA HOUSE 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 749-4535. Tikka House has garnered positive notice for both its lunch buffet and a la carte dinner service. Diners have praised dishes such as lamb masala with roasted coconut, Tandoori wings, fish pakora, paneer chili, several daal preparations and saag paneer. $$ L D pf

AL SULTAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 8129 Bardstown Rd., 6303334. Located in the Glenmary Shopping Center, this MiddleEastern restaurant offers the classics — shwarma and kofta, tabbouleh. $$ L D f ALADDIN’S MEDITERRANEAN 37 Bank St., New Albany IN, 4897969. After bringing a higher level of Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany, Aladdin’s has moved to the cool new Underground Station complex. You will still find well-crafted gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus in their sleek new environs. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 2716 Frankfort Ave., 2906050. Middle Eastern food of an above-average quality. Kabobs and hummus, of course, but also shirazi salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemony dressing, and chicken stew with pomegranate and walnuts. $ L D CHARCOAL 2805 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-8888. Chicken cooked over charcoal and served with garlic sauce is just one of the draws at this new Mediterranean restaurant. The menu also lists classics like falafel, chicken shawarma, hummus, baba ganoush, tahini salad — and baklava cheesecake. $$ L D f EAT A PITA 2286 Bardstown Rd., 473-7482. Enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D FALAFEL OASIS 226 W. Broadway, 742-2030. The owner of Superior Market and Deli a few doors away has also opened this Middle Eastern restaurant, serving gyros, falafel, and other regional fare. $ L D GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. For those in the know, the Grape Leaf has long been a destination spot, well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery nich in both ambiance and quality of food. Prices remain affordable; the food and mood justify a special trip. $$ L D f JERUSALEM KITCHEN 4413 Saint Rita Dr., 614-6465. Little Jerusalem Café has moved from the Iroquois Manor area and moderately rebranded itself. You can still find a range of Mediterranean dishes here, shawarma and fattoush, gyros and hummus and so on. $$ D f KEBAB HOUSE 969 Baxter Ave., 883-0074. Area aficionados of Middle Eastern cuisine find themselves flashing back to the late, lamented Falafel House while devouring a variety of kebabs, alongside shawarma, gyros, tabbouleh, tahini and baklava. $$ L D f LITTLE GREEK FRESH GRILL 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 690-8348.

This Arkansas-based chain is now serving dolmades and spanikopita, pita sandwiches and wraps, a variety of skewers and mousaka and pastitsio. $$ L D p MAIRA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 8910388. Originally an offshoot of the popular Safier, Maira has relocated from the University of Louisville to St. Matthews, retaining its menu of popular Middle Eastern dishes: shawarma, kebab, falafel, hummus, lentil soup, baklava and more. $$ L D MAMA SHADIA 2300 W. Market St., 830-4685. Arabic and Middle Eastern cuisine comes to the Russell neighborhood, with a twist; one co-owner is from Bahrain, where chicken masala, beef curry, www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023

71

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 72

and tikka are among the most popular dishes. The eatery also boasts shawarma, falafel, burgers, wings, and kebabs. $ L D MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L MEESHMEESH MEDITERRANEAN 636 E. Market St., 589-5224.

Taken from the Hebrew word for apricot, MeeshMeesh offers locally sourced menu items derived from the Eastern Mediterranean culinary traditions of Jordan, Israel, Lebanon, Palestine, and Syria, as synthesized by Chef Noam Bilitzer, a native of Israel. $$$$ D pf MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Spanning the gamut of Middle Eastern, North African, Turkish and Greek cuisine (dare we say “comfort food”?), the daily offerings are a delightful kaleidoscope of kabobs, gyros, schwarma, hummus, falafel and much more. $$ L D f PASHA'S MEDITERRANEAN 3904 Bardstown Rd., 409-4532. You can find the usual Mediterranean fare here – falafel, baba ghanouj – but with influences of Jordanian recipes such as Kalaya, ground lamb cooked in tomatoes, and char-grilled lamb liver. Fans cite the value-sized portions. $$ L D f SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SAM’S GYRO 3123 S. Second St., 709-4292. This hummus and kebab joint, with its tasty food and friendly service, has moved out to the South End. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232, 4614 Chamberlain Ln., 919-9014, 1565 Bardstown Rd., 749-0385. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavash. $ L D f SIMPLY MEDITERRANEAN 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 963-5577. The menu is based on “perfected” family inherited recipes. There are familiar and expected choices: kebabs and shawarma, baba ganooj and kibbeh. Also cheese and spinach pies, chickpea salad, and fried cauliflower. $ L D SYRIAN GRILL ABU ABDU 3325 Bardstown Rd., 749-0071. This Middle Eastern restaurant, tucked away amid other businesses just past the Watterson, serves familiar Mediterranean dishes — kibbeh, shawarma, biryani — and also family size meals of mixed grill and the Syrian rice dish mansaf. $$ L D TAZIKI’S MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 2446222, 106 Fairfax Ave., 212-5373, 1580 Veterans Pkwy., (812) 404-1191. At these Alabama-based chain outlets the food is made fresh daily with vegan and gluten-free choices. The menu includes grilled chicken roll-ups, a grilled tilapia sandwich with dill-caper sauce, gyros, a grilled vegetable and rice plate, roasted potatoes and baklava, along with beer and wine. $$ L D pf ZOE’S KITCHEN 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has two Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D

CARALI'S ROTISSERIE CHICKEN 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 6180699, 642 Baxter Ave., 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 618-2725, 5439 New Cut Rd., 963-5698, 703 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., (812) 286-2900. You will find Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken and other South American dishes here: lomo (grilled marinated steak), chaufa rice and various salads and side dishes (such as stuffed avocado).

Sandwiches as well as full dinners, and take away half and full roasted chickens. $ L D p CLASSICO TAKEOUT AND EMPANADAS 104. S. Preston St., 489-1380. Downtown eaters now have a way to enjoy some of the crowd-pleasing dishes of well-knonw to fans of Clifton’s Caffe Classico. Restaurateur Tommy Mudd’s new downtown kiosk will 72 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

focus on hand-held takeaway choices, including his well-regarded empanadas. Espresso too, and limited outdoor seating. $$ B L pf

with wings and choice of six sauces. One house specialty is the Chiwawa, a stuffed rice ball, breaded and fried. $$ L D

EL SAZON DE ABUELA 8506 Preston Hwy., 290-0030. The ethnic food choices along Preston Highway continue to expand with this Puerto Rican restaurant. Mofongo, – smashed plantains infused with garlic and seasonings – is a comfort food staple of PR cuisine made with shrimp, chicken, seafood, or veggies and broth. Breakfast dishes, burgers, and sandwiches are also on offer. $$ B L D f

CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. This little shop along the lower Brownsboro food corridor touts “a world of flavor with a Mexican flair.” It’s mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. $ L D

EMPANADAS ALCHEMY 10640 Meeting St., 333-0834, 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmore Center). NThe Michelangeli family’s Venezuelan-Latin American fusion food — pepitos, patacones, arepas and yes, empanadas — is available at a kiosk in Oxmoor Center, via a roving food truck, and in a bricks ‘n’ mortar restaurant setting at Norton Commons. $$ L D pf I LOVE TACOS 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 384-2154, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 742-4119, 3550 Springhurst Commons Dr., 749-6847. The opening of the third location of this locally-owned Mexican spot testifies to restaurant’s popularity. The menu’s focus extends beyond the expectations of the name with burritos and quesadillas too. But the birria taco, filled with spiced stewed beef and then crisped on a griddle, has become a sort of signature dish. $$ L D pf LA BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO 5700 Outer Loop, 742-2144. You can find a variety of Latin dishes here, from tamales and tacos to cerdo asado (roast pork in citrus marinade), ropa vieja and churrasco, seafood and soups. $$ L D p LA GUANAQUITA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 822-1343. This South End spot serves the dishes of Guatemala and Honduras: pupusas and baleadas and pescado frito (fried fish), served whole, head and tail on, garnished with lime wedges and avocado slices. $$ L D LA SUERTE 2116 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Owner Chris Seckman has transformed his Douglass Loop North End Café site into a Latin restaurant. Partner and Executive Chef Adrian Jimarez Neri offer dishes inspired by his mother and grandmother. The dinner menu includes pollo tostadas, shrimp a la parilla, pork posole and shrimp a la diabla. Brunch will offer molletes, migas, and jalapeño biscuits with chorizo gravy. $$$ Br D pf SABOR LATINO 1273 S. Brook St., 276-4954. A welcome addition to Old Louisville is this tiny restaurant serving a “Latin Culinary Mix,” as a sign advertises. The menu offers Cuban sandwiches, patatas bravas, burritos, quesadillas, carne asada, ropa vieja and pollo de vacaciones – a chicken stew. $$ L D f SENORA AREPA 117 St. Matthews Ave., 795-3995. The arepa, a cornmeal bread stuffed with meat or cheese, is ubiquitous in northern Latin America, and it also anchors the first area “arepa bar” in St. Matthews, showcasing the depth and richness of Venezuelan cuisine, as influenced by Spanish, West African, and Native American cultures. $$$ L D pf YUMMY POLLO 4222 Bishop Ln., 618-1400. You can get Peruvianstyle charcoal roasted chicken here by the piece, half or whole bird.

American-style side dishes include fried or mashed potatoes, rice, steamed vegetables, slaw and pasta salad. $ L

A TODA MADRE COMIDA URBANA MEXICANA 2116 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 599-9938. For monolingual souls seeking brevity, “Mom’s Meal’s” will do just fine. The Mexican offerings are familiar, with homemade chorizo scoring early raves from the neighborhood crowd. $ L D BAKERSFIELD 1064 Bardstown Rd., 357-1755. The Cincinnatibased restaurant group behind The Eagle brings a taste of Buck Owens Country to the Highlands, specializing in adaptations of Mexican street food (cochinita pibil tacos, carnitas taquitos, short rib queso), tequila drinks and whiskey. $$ L D pf BANDIDO TAQUERIA MEXICANA 423 University Blvd., 9967788, 2901 Goose Creek Rd., 547-1825, 4214 Shelbyville Rd., 384-4024. These three San Diego-influenced Mexican eateries (near U of L, on Westport Road and the newest in St. Matthews) serve tacos, quesadillas, burritos, nachos, burrito bowls and salsas with California flair. $$ L D f BUBBAKOO’S BURRITOS 12919 Factory Ln., 384-0778, 4214 Shelbyville Rd., 630-2017. This East Coast fast-casual chain offers lots of standard Mexican fare (tacos, quesadillas, nachos), along

CANCÚN 808 Lyndon Ln., 883-1924, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 7423697. Now with two locations, Cancún offers familiar dishes, combination platters, and steak and seafood specialties like carne bandito and tostados de ceviche. $$ L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 584-8606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170, 1075 Bardstown Rd., 452-8990, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7173, 420 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 425-3017, 7710 Bardstown Rd., 398-3452, 2133 State St. New Albany IN., 812-920-4463. Now with seven area locations, this increasingly popular Tex-Mex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ L D f CONDADO TACOS 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 8058300. The Ohio-based taco chain has arrived brandish margaritas and tequila-based cocktails alongside build-your-own tacos, nachos and bowls. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options are available. $$ L D pf EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 266-9605. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL COMAL TAQUERIA 9609 Dixie Hwy., 632-2053. As one might expect, the main focus here is on tacos, including party taco trays, but other choices include burritos, quesadillas and chilaquiles. $ L Dp EL MAGUEY 1015 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 812-725-0002. One of a half-dozen authentic Mexican eateries within a few hundred yards of each other in Clarksville. Portions are large; tortas, street tacos and horchatas are among the popular choices from a lengthy menu. $$ B L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Mexican eatery with quick, friendly service, situated in enlarged and remodeled quarters, with a Latino butcher shop, bakery and grocery mere steps away. Tacos and burritos are made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas; gorditas, huaraches and sopesitos are also popular options. $ B L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with fresh-squeezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L D p EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930, 1767 Bardstown Rd., 384-5633. he crowded little Crescent Hill storefront, offering creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!”, now has a second outlet in the multilevel space in the Highlands that once was Asiatique. Both locations provide high-quality Mexican food and drink. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (28 Locations) These locally-owned restaurants have comprised a steadily growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in com¬fortable surroundings, and proliferating to the point where currently El Nopal is second only to Starbucks in number of metro Louisville locations. $ L D pf EL PASTORCITO 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3277, 4132 Outer Loop, 618-0520. El Pastorcito serves Mexican street food (tacos, sopes, tortas, etc.) and a range of Mexican/American entrées (gorditas, quesadillas, burgers and chicken tenders). $$ L D p f EL RAYO SEAFOOD & GRILL 1537 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0070. Formerly Pelicanos, this marisqueria certainly doesn’t neglect standard Mexican menu items but enormous grilled seafood platters have top billing, alongside an uncommonly large selection of ceviches and aguachiles. $$$ L D p EL RIO GRANDE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 632-2403. A Mexican restaurant has taken over the expansive space that once was

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 73

Limestone. Patrons report good experiences, with both the food and the service. $$ L D p EL RODEO MEXICAN 5204 Elzie Rd., 995-8722. Classic MexicanAmerican cuisine, serving Shively, Pleasure Ridge Park, and Valley Station since 2000, and locally renowned for its lunch buffet Monday through Saturday, featuring all the staples (tacos, quesadillas, wings, salad and even flan), with a range of margaritas to wash it all down. $$ L D p EL SINALOENSE MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5520 Fern Valley Rd., 712-9707. An extensive array of beautifully plated, reasonably priced Mexican dishes is augmented by lesser-known ceviches and seafood, including a show-stopping trompo al pastor, with guacamole, onions, cilantro, sauces, tortillas on the side and marinated pork steak on a spit, ready for you to carve your meat into DIY tacos. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 285-0109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ B L D pf EL TACO LOCO 5622 Preston Hwy., 225-7229. This unpretentious Mexican restaurant tries to be as authentic as it can, and has persuaded many fans with its efforts. Inexpensive, freshly made tacos, quesadillas and other familiar Mexican dishes, served in value sizes. $ L D EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave., 583-0440, 112 Meridian Ave., 709-5154, 10305 Taylorsville Rd., 708-1675. Olé Restaurant Group’s three signature taquerias (a luchador is a Mexican wrestler) have diners lined up out the door. Familiar taco names — barbacoa, carnitas, carne asada — get clever riffs in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food. And do try the fantastic tortas. $ L D f EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 8958010. El Tarasco’s take on Mexican food appeals both to the area’s growing Latino population and Anglos who want to enjoy a Southof-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family-oriented Mexican restaurant offers the expected menu items, as well as some

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf

just pure Mexican: asados and moles and pibils, along with authentic variations on familiar choices such as tacos, burritos and enchiladas.

The bar menu is centered on Mexican cocktails. $$ D pf

EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839.

One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf

GUSTAVO’S MEXICAN GRILL 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 434-7266, 10715 Meeting St., 690-7070, 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4201100. Gustavo’s offers “bold Mexican flavors.” Everything you would expect — fajitas, burritos, tacos — but also vegetarian options, house specialties like enchiladas verdes, chimichangas, shrimp tacos and pollo feliz (grilled chicken with chorizo and pineapple). $$ L D pf

FELIPE’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-9142, 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 919-7014. The second East End location seems to show that the ethnic fare at Felipe’s is well-made, and tasty. The menu lists 16 chicken dishes from various areas of Mexico, along with variations on fajitas and tacos. $$ L D p FIESTA MEXICANA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D p FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444, 135 S. English Station Rd., 254-7755. These traditional Mexican restaurant’s locations serve the expected things, like fajitas and burritos. But there is also an extensive grill menu, with items such as steak tampiqueño (rib-eye steak with ranchero sauce), Chile Colorado and Los Amigos cheese steak. $ L D pf FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $LDp FISTFUL OF TACOS 2708 Paoli Pk., New Albany IN, 557-0226.

This ambitious little taco joint in the Knobs offers five taco choices - The Good (chicken tinga, citrus slaw),The Bad (beef, pico de gallo), The Ugly (Bourbon pork, mango salsa), The Vegan (roasted sweet potato, black bean) and The Pesky (scallop ceviche, melon). $$ L D f FOKO 991 Logan St., (210) 792-5858. Considerably expanded from its previous Logan Street Market footprint, the American South continues to merrily fuse with Mexico in Shelby Park for breakfast, lunch and brunch, yielding menu items like chicken with jalapeno gravy and tortas with collard greens. $$ L D f GUACAMOLE MODERN MEXICAN 900 E. Market St., 212-8225.

This popular East End modern Mexican restaurant has relocated to NuLu, taking over the space that had been Rye. No Tex-Mex here,

ISRAEL’S DELICIAS DE MEXICO GOURMET 604 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 725-9139. Israel Landon introduced Kentuckiana to his Mexican home-style cooking at La Rosita a few years ago.

Now he is moving into the former Destinatins Booksellers space by the end of March. Look for street tacos and Mayan quesadillas and weekly specials highlighting cuisine from various regions of Mexico, including seafood dishes and new desserts. $ L D f JOELY'S BAR & GRILL 1999 Brownsboro Rd., 742-9456. Taking over the former El Frijol location in Clifton, this Mexican restaurant serves breakfast, burritos, quesadillas, tortas and chimichangas.

Dinner choices range from pollo con arroz to carnitas de puerco to seafood. $$ L D p LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. The revamped and updated Highlands authentic fast food place still offers burritos as big as your head, and tacos, quesadillas and tortas too. $ L D LA CATRINA MEXICAN KITCHEN 202 E. Elm St., New Albany IN, 725-8264. The owners of Señor Iguanas restaurants have opened this Mexican party food and street food restaurant in the building that Dragon King’s Daughter moved out of. Look for naked and dressed tacos, soups, salads and shareable dishes and seasonal menu updates. $$ L D pf LA CATRINA TACOS & TEQUILA 125 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 812-920-0114. This downsized La Catrina Mexican Kitchen specializes in 18 styles of taco (beef, pork, chicken, seafood, and plant-based) and tequila-based cocktails along with a smaller selection of burritos and quesadillas, snacks, chips and desserts. $$ L D p

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 73

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 74

LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $LDp

community. Los Aztecas, one of the best, has moved its W. Main St. anchor store to E. Market, taking over the larger, spiffy space left by Wild Rita’s closing. It’s satellite locations are still bustling too. $ L D pf

LA LOMA 560 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 812-283-3775. This seafood-heavy Mexican grill with all the expected menu staples takes special pride in its weekend menu, featuring menudo, barbecued lamb and shrimp broth. $$L D p

LUCKY BURRITO 2118 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Christopher Seckman and partner Adrian Jimarez Neri morphed the Douglass Loop location of North End Café into the Modern Latin restaurant La Suerte. Now the team has added a new offering next door: Lucky Burrito is a quick-service place with hefty burritos, nicelypriced tacos, and plenty of interesting ingredients and an assortment of deftly-crafted tacos. $$ L D f

LA LUPITA 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-0083. Tucked away at an inconspicuous strip mall in a neighborhood exploding with Mexican food and drink options, this venerable Mexican food purveyor isn’t a secret any longer. The Mexican staples are here (with Oaxacan accents) pambazos, tlacoyos, tlayudas and aguachile, as explained by cheerful staffers. The owners also operate a bakery in front of the same building, featuring breads, pastries and coffee. $$ L D pf LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LDp LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566. This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ L D p LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2883. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes.

These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA TERRAZA FOURTH STREET 654 S. Fourth St., 409-6103.

Inheritor of Bluegrass Brewing’s 4th Street satellite location, which did not return from the pandemic, La Terraza also assumes the role of a well-situated, pre-concert drinks and dinner option; several music venues are nearby. It’s Mexican cuisine, emphasizing quesadillas, taquitos, tacos and outdoor seating with a solid vantage point for people watching. $$ L B pf LA TORTA LOCA 5213 Preston Hwy., 966-3254. This simple, strip mall eatery has been around long enough to gain dedicated fans of their well-seasoned and fairly spicy versions of familiar Mexican dishes.

Some of those fans recommend the agua de Jamaica (hibiscus).

LA TROPICANA 5215 Preston Hwy., 964-5957. This Latino grocery store has been selling a full range of fruits, vegetables, meats and grocery items for a while. Now there is a steam-table buffet with a wide range of lunch choices. It’s mostly take-away, but there’s also limited outdoor and indoor seating. $$ B L D f LAS CAZUELAS 4214 Bishop Ln., 614-8634. This unassuming strip mall eatery has amassed a dedicated local clientele with fast, friendly service, cold margaritas and well-prepared familiar Mexican fare. $$ L D pf LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small, thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center.

Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz now also have a sit-down storefront just down the street. $ D f LAS MARGARITAS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 963-5503, 307 Central Ave., 690-8071. The emphasis here is on the cuisine of the Gulf coast of Mexico. You will find the familiar (tacos, fajitas) and the slightly different — caldo de pollo (Mexican chicken soup), mole poblano and salmon al ajillo (garlic salmon) and tlayollos, a variation on tamales. $$ L D p LIMÓN Y SAL 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This authentic Mexican kitchen offers suburbanites many choices: taquitos, bocadillos and dips to start, soups such as pozole and caldo de camarón (shrimp soup), tacos, tortas and combination dinners. $$ L D pf LOCOS 412 S. Fourth St., 384-6776. Crazy! Fourth Street Live downtown welcomes the most extensive selection of tequila in Kentucky, via this North Carolina-headquartered, Southern California-themed, restaurant and nightclub with Latin cuisine (and event space), including tacos, quesadillas, burritos and fajitas—and did we mention margaritas? $$$ L D pf LOS AZTECAS 445 E. Market St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 4263994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville thanks to a growing immigrant 74 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

LUNA'S MEXICAN ROTISSERIE 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

The owners came from Puebla, Mexico, but made a stop in Los Angeles before moving to Louisville and starting Luna’s Rotisserie.

Their specialty is slow-cooked rotisserie chicken from the coast of Veracruz. There’s plenty more on the board, such as tamales, quesadillastarlights and menudo. On Saturdays & Sundays, pozole and cabo de camaron are added. $$ L D MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 Hendrik Dr., 671-5291. This Mexican-American restaurant chain serves a Latin lunch buffet seven days a week as well as a full dinner menu. You will find burritos, tacos and tamales, but also several steak dishes and Mexican-style desserts. $$ L D MARIA’S TACOS 825 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 812-725-7705.

The kitchen is in view and the atmosphere intimate at this taqueria, described by one regular customer as “just like eating at Grandma’s.” Lengua tacos are recommended, but Maria’s might be the top choice in Clarksville for tamales. $ B L D MARISCOS LOS PLEBES 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 690-4350. $ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along East Market Street, in the area now known as NuLu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ D pf MEXICO CITY TAQUERIA & RESTAURANT 3826 Hamburg Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 283-1072. This bright little Mexican place in a Jeffersonville strip mall offers the usual, and on weekends adds traditional Mexican soups like caldos de camarones, menudo and pozole. $ L D MEXICO LINDO 912 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 812-288-8450.

Another of the Mexican eateries in the Clarksville cluster, famed locally for its 20+ daily lunch combos and vegetarian options, and also presenting a wide concentration of chicken and seafood favorites. $ L D p MI BONITO PINOTEPA 7200 Preston Hwy., 290-5328. Dishes from southern Mexico, around Oaxaca, are the focus of this Okolona strip mall restaurant. Look for Oaxacan-style tamales, various moles and tlayudos, a kind off open-faced quesadilla. $ L D MI CASITA PARRILLA MEXICANA 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666.

Enthusiastic fans of the restaurant formerly known as Mi Cocina will find the same quick and efficient lunch service and dishes executed with skill under the new name change. The margaritas at Happy Hour are notable. $$ L D pf MI TIERRA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 7429142. This clean, well-lighted places in the East End serve up familiar Mexican food – fajitas, tacos, carne asada – in a friendly, efficient atmosphere that is drawing raves from its local fans. $ L D pf NOCHE MEXICAN BBQ 1838 Bardstown Rd., 467-8015, 712 Brent St. (The Village Market). Inside a de-commissioned Lutheran Church, illuminated by the large stained glass windows in the sanctuary/dining room, you can find authentic Tex-Mex barbecue.

Look for brisket and pulled pork smoked with Noche’s special spice blend, fajitas, flautas, green chili macaroni and cheese and grilled Mexican street corn. Now with a small spot in The Village Market. $$ D pf OLE FRIJOLE 5612 Bardstown Rd., 822-3388. After a bit of a hike out Bardstown Rd., you will find oversized margaritas, well-priced, nicely made familiar Mexican food, and a welcoming atmosphere.

The customize-your-guacamole bar is a popular feature. $$ L D p PIÑA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 9956775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p

PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9453588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (18 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f QUE PASA MEXICAN GRILL 103 W. Oak St. From burritos to tacos, and not omitting street corn, Antonio Cortez fashions authentic Mexican cuisine the way his abuela (grandma) used to make it, transplanted into the heart of Old Louisville. $$ L D pf RAMIRO’S CANTINA 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 812-9247770. Long-time restaurateur Ramiro Gandara closed his fullservice Frankfort Ave. eatery in early 2023, speedily shifting operations to his quick-casual Jeffersonville cantina, which moved a block south, quadrupled in size and became Gandara’s flagship.

Order at the counter, grab and go, or sit down and enjoy. Ramiro’s favorites remain: burritos, chicken bowls, nachos, tortas and tacos, as well as a complete bar. $ L D pf SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 5637 Outer Loop, 708-2165. This small local chain has gone upscale with re-designed crisp modern decor, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. $ L D pf SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd., 459-7776. Founded by Saul Garcia down on Main St.’s museum row, his restaurant has an extensive menu that satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D pf TACO CHOZA 3922 Westport Rd., 409-5080. In the heart of St. Matthews, this locally-owned taqueria also makes burritos and quesadillas, pours craft beers, and offers daily margarita specials. $ L D pf TACO CITY LOUISVILLE 1283 Bardstown Rd., 409-9454, 11601 Shelbyville Rd., 742-1638, 3085 Breckenridge Ln., 443-4286. The trio of locations of this Mexican place — run by a trio of Mexican natives — serve tacos on homemade corn tortillas, tortas, salads and burritos, using recipes straight from Mexico like the mole sauce by the owner’s grandma. $ L D f TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D TACOS LOS GORDITOS 2017 Brownsboro Rd., 509-8676, 317 W. Oak St., 409-4179, 2808 Patti Ln., 398-5074, 3904 S. Third St. Now with multiple area locations and slightly altered identity (“Tacos” replaces “Taqueria”), but with the requisite subliminal suggestions fully intact: “Gorditos” means “the fat ones,” which can mean whatever you wish, although in this instance it implies bulging tacos, burritos and other oversized Mexican standards. $ L D TAQUERIA DON JUAN 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 920-1238.

This addition to Clarksville’s rich array of Mexican restaurants focuses on seafood: ceviche, oysters, seafood cocktails, and caldo de camarones. But it doesn’t neglect meats. Choose tacos filled with lengua or cabeza (tongue or meat pulled from the head) as well as more familiar fixings. $$ L D p TAQUERIA EL MEXICANO 7611 Preston Hwy., 690-4044. You can enjoy authentic Mexican cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner at this Okolona spot. A variety of ceviche, tortas, tacos, burritos and quesadillas are available every day, but pozole and menudo are weekend specials. $$ B L D p TAQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D TINO'S TACOS 161 Outer Loop, 742-3030. An extensive menu here offers all the Mexican food choices Americans are familiar with including tortas, burritos, gorditas, quesadillas and fajitas. $ L D p

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 75

TORCHY'S TACOS 1540 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 645-4800. This Texas-based taco chain has expanded east to Jeffersonville. Try the "Trailer Park" taco with fried chicken, green chiles and pico de gallo, or go for a Scallywag, with coconutbattered shrimp, bacon, green chiles, and peach habanero jam. Or choose a salad, fajita or burrito, There’s a full bar featuring margaritas and specialty cocktails. $$ B L D p f TRES AMIGOS OF LOUISVILLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 3846525. Three Friends, certainly, but a great many more menu options, including bowls, street tacos, chimichangas, fajitas, steaks, seafood and those ubiquitous margaritas. $$ L D p VALLARTA MEXICAN SEAFOOD AND GRILL 9874 Linn Station Rd., 290-6268. This family-owned restaurant serves freshly cooked seafood dishes in the style of Mexico’s Pacific coast, as well as more familiar Mexican fare (tacos, fajitas, burritos). Fans enjoy the large portions. $ L D p VERONICA’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5044 Poplar Level Rd., 333-0473. Former food truck operator Veronica Cortes has launched a storefront, specializing in slow-cooked birria dishes, including tacos and – yes – an east-west fusion ramen. Fajitas, tortas and gorditas are also on the menu. $$$ L D p VICTORIA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 709-5178. $ LDf YELLOW CACTUS 9111 Galene Dr., 749-5922, 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313, 2350 Frankfort Ave., 749-0767.

Didn’t think Sammy Hagar could replace David Lee Roth, did you?

Well, Yellow Cactus has taken over in Clifton where Ramiro’s Cantina reigned supreme for 15 years, with an extensive range of tacos, burritos, quesadillas, tapas, cervezas and margaritas. Owner Moises Moran’s other area Yellow Cactus eateries are located in Jeffersontown and Floyds Knobs, Indiana. $ L D p ZOMBIE TACO 100 W. Washington St. (Moxy Hotel), 716-7377.

This always-open walk-up taco window at the new Moxy Hotel features Taco Tuesdays specials on tacos and margaritas, a 3-taco survival box with a side of chips and salsa, and deep discounts for restaurant industry workers on Sundays and Mondays. $$ B L D pf

dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ BAE’S BAKERY 1804 Frankfort Ave., 614-5001. Abigail McGreevy filled the void left by the closure of Sweet Surrender, shifting her Old Louisville bakery to Clifton for jumbo stuffed cookies, cakes by the slice, pastries and both vegan and gluten-free treats, along with biscuits and breakfast sandwiches via an arrangement with the Susan Brown Bakery. $ B f BIG NITA’S CHEESECAKES 1011 E. Main St., 883-0022.

Cheesecake savant Nicole Clark, who effortlessly conjures Strawberry Swirl, Banana Pudding and many more styles, has parked her wildly successful dessert-oriented food truck and launched a bricks and mortar shop in Butchertown (formerly HiFive Doughnuts). $ L BOOMTOWN CREAMERY 114 E. Main St., New Albany IN, (812) 590-1314. Next door to Boomtown Kitchen (in the space that housed the legendary South Side Inn), this ice-cream shop serves hand-dipped ice cream and large shakes. $ L D BORN2BAGEL 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 384-0619. They had us at “lox.” New York City native Bruce Rosenblatt and wife Jennifer consulted his Grandma Ruth’s bagel recipe box, then launched a shop featuring lox (lovingly imported from NYC), bagels and all the schmears (spreads), along with coffee and a selection of breakfast and lunch edibles. $ B L BOUDREAUX’S NEW ORLEANS STYLE SNO-BALLS 11816 Shelbyville Rd., This little family run shop offers the garishly colored shaved ice treat with all sorts of syrup flavors and toppings. $ f BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY BAKERY 729 E. Main St., 742-8315.

With its move from a cramped upstairs space on Washington Street to more spacious digs on Main, Butchertown Grocery’s bakery maven Barbara Turner now offers a wide range of pastries, breads, chocolates, cookies, sandwiches, soups and take-home dinners.

Good Folks coffee provides fresh-squeezed juices and local kombuchas, coffee and espresso. $$ B Br L D p CLIFTON DONUTS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 749-6896. A family from Thailand produces very fresh donuts of all sorts daily to an

appreciative crowd from the Clifton corridor. Fans favorably compare the offerings here to those at the chains, lauding freshness of product and friendliness of service. $ B COLD STONE CREAMERY 1013 Jefferson Commons Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0034, 2015 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4997750, 976 Breckenridge Ln, 894-6292. The angle that distinguishes this ice cream chain is the long list of add-ons that fans can choose to have worked into their favorite flavor: bananas, berries, candies, cookies and nuts, to name a few. Ice cream cakes, smoothies and shakes too. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 883-4128, 4005 Summit Plaza Dr. (Paddock Shops), 423-4465, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Now fans of this “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor can find their favorite flavors popping up all over town. And, you can now find Comfy Cow products in Krogers ice cream section. $ f CRUMBL COOKIES 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 405-8156, 4110 Summit Plaza Dr., 509-2828, 7714 Bardstown Rd., 251-1666. This gourmet cookie chain specializes in fresh-baked cookies with a weekly rotating menu that always includes a warm milk chocolate chip cookie and a chilled sugar cookie. $ B L D f DAIRY KASTLE 575 Eastern Pkwy., 634-8990. A long-time seasonal favorite that has drawn celebrities (like Denny Crum and Rick Pitino) and is ever popular with Germantown folks craving cones, flurries, milkshakes, sundaes and chili dogs. Seasonal: MarchNovember. $ f DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280.

New co-owners Anthony Pham and his partner Bill Ho (whose parents founded DaLat’s in 1999) renovated the bakery and café earlier this year. The business is named after Da Lat, the largest city of the Central Highlands in Vietnam, where Ho’s parents were bakers before they immigrated. The café is known for its pastries, banh mi desserts, boba tea, and Vietnamese coffee. $ B L D DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Ct., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D pf MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4911800, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (8 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquite-grilled steaks, fish and chicken. The Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. $ L D p

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat,

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 75

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 76

for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B DIRTY DOUGH COOKIES 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 205-2005. “Life gets messy (but) it’s better with cookies,” announces this new-toLouisville chain, promising a special cookie conjuring process that adds fillings, mix-ins and layers (hence the adjective “dirty”), with decadent examples including The Muscle (fudge brownie) and Raspberry Toaster Tart. $$ L D DUCK DONUTS 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 614-6657, 13325 Station Rail Way, 237-7560. The town of Duck in the Outer Banks of North Carolina is the inspiration for a beachfront-themed, creativelysprinkled doughnut franchise, also offering espresso drinks, ice cream and breakfast sandwiches. $ EHRLER'S ICE CREAM 201 E. Main St., 749-2236, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 749-2236. Louisville’s iconic ice cream shop returns after a long hiatus. Now with two locations. Good, locally-made ice cream and nostalgia for the ice cream treats of childhood will be the main draws. $ f GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751. 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751, 2240 Frankfort Ave., 4220908. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular Norton Commons store now has a sibling in Clifton. You can get crepes at both stores as well. $ GEORGIA'S SWEET POTATO PIE CO. 1559 Bardstown Rd., 7422852. If you watched Grace & Frankie, you know how versatile sweet potatoes can be. In addition to several variations on sweet potato pie, ice cream and cookies, you can find sweet potatoinfused soy candles, room sprays and wax melts. $ L D GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4998. This Tennessee-based chain offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ GLOW WORM PLAY CAFÉ 962 Barret Ave., 690-4633. Calling itself “the first play café in Louisville,” Glow Worm offers three play sessions per day for children 6 and under, while parents wait, mingle or work in the full-service café. $ B L GOLDEN GATE DONUTS 8605 Smyrna Pkwy., 883-0012. This South End donut shop has garnered copious fans for their always freshly-made donuts and cream-filled Long Johns, French crullers, giant bear claws and apple fritters. Savory breakfast sandwiches too. $BL HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls.

Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ B L D HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 3521 Springhurst Commons Dr., 326-8990, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 590-3580, 4810 Dixie Hwy., 409-6100. $ L D f HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B HONEYDEW 135 Breckenridge Ln., 963-5657. The owner of District 6 in, the popular Vietnamese restaurant in St. Mathews, now adds a smoothie bar with healthful, fresh-pressed juices, smoothies and croffles, something between a croissant and a waffle that is opular in Asia. $ B L INSOMNIA COOKIES 1913 S. Fourth St., 385-5143, 948 Baxter Ave., 665-0237. This late-night (til 3 a.m.) cookie and ice cream delivery business was so successful with U of L students that the owners opened a second location in the Highlands. You can order ice cream sandwich cookies too; drink choices are milk or chocolate milk, of course. $ L D JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers an eclectic menu of Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, as well as breads. $ B L D f JEFF'S DONUTS 5420 IN-62, Jeffersonville IN, 283-3636, 6401 Dutchmans Ln., 365-3299, 712 Brent St. (The Village Market), 6405 Bardstown Rd., 384-4451, 1985 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 36576 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

3162, 10513 Fischer Park Dr., 795-3337. Jeff concocts 40 variations of donuts. The Texas donut (order in advance) is large enough for several people. Also available are apple and cherry hand pies, cinnamon twists and glazed honey buns. The Jeffersonville location is open 24 hrs. $ B L D JJ BAKES & CO. 210 W. Liberty (Omni Hotel), 606-226-3566. This counter service and custom order bakery specializes in wedding cakes and spectacular desserts. Owner Jackie Joseph, encouraged by stints at The Brown Hotel and her gig cooking for the 2010 Olympic team, entered — and won — the Food Network’s “Best Baker in America” in 2021.$ B L KING DONUT 814 Eastern Pkwy., 742-9003. You’ll find a tasty selection of donuts, along with ice cream, breakfast sandwiches and smoothies at this friendly, brightly lit neighborhood favorite on the edge of Germantown. $ B L D KING DONUTS 608 Lyndon Ln., 890-5293. Donuts, yes, but you can also choose muffins, breakfast sandwiches and sandwiches for lunch. Healthy juices as well as coffee. $ B L D LA MAISON AUX CREPES 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market).

Eight kinds of filled crepes, savory and sweet, and two kinds of waffles are available at this addition to the restaurant row at Logan Street Market. $$ B L D p LA PANA BAKERY 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 936-0307.

At this takeaway kiosk you can find traditional Oaxacan sweetbreads or pan dulce: orejitas, a fried dough pastry not unlike elephant ears; concha, a sweet roll and pan de muerto, a sweet bread eaten on the Day of the Dead. Be sure to try the donuts filled with lechesilla custard. $ B L pf LEANN'S HOME MADE CHEESECAKES 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 919-597-1625. Whole cheesecakes and cheesecake cupcakes can be found at this new grab-and-go food option at Logan Street Market. $$$ L D p LEAVEN BAKERY 1515 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 536-8823.

Zechariah and Kimberly Maxey, veterans of Jack Fry’s and the Brown Hotel, have opened a French bistro/bakery in a 100-year-old New Albany building. In addition to baked goods, the bakery will also serve breakfast and lunch items: eggs Benedict, omelets, mussels with spicy marinara sauce, BLTs with pork belly and other seasonal menu choices. $$ B L f LOUISVILLE CREAM 632 E. Market St., 882-1516. Owner Daryl Goodner takes milk from grass-fed cows at JD Country Farms and makes it into small batch ice cream vended from his NuLu shop.

There is a mix of classic flavors and rotating seasonal creations, including French Vanilla, Bourbon Baklava, Banana Pudding, Pistachio Honeycomb and many others. $ L D f LUEBERRY ACAI & SUPERFOODS 808 E. Market St., 742-0640, 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (St. Matthews Mall), 618-1378, 6308 Meeting St., 384-7708. These shops serve açai bowls topped with things like goji berries, banana, chia, strawberries and coconut. Smoothies and other healthful options also available. $$ B L D MOCHI DOG 304 W. Woodlawn Ave., (The StrEATery), 270-8399577. Mochi is a Japanese rice cake used to craft Asian fusion doughnuts, while a mochi dog refers to a Korean-style corn dog.

Both of these are house specialties at Mochi Dog. $$ B L MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true — bacon. $ B NORMA JEAN’S BAKED GOODS 821 E. Broadway, 324-3338. A prolific and seemingly limitless array of cakes, cookies, brownies, chess bars, honey buns, curated at a new shop in Phoenix Hill by Jerrica Tinsley, an alumnus of the Chef Space food business incubator. $ D NORTH LIME DONUTS 1228 S. Seventh St., 384-2320, 1301 Herr Ln., 963-5734. This Lexington-based bakery offers made-onpremises donuts, certain of them uncommonly flavored (blueberry cheesecake, French toast and pumpkin cream cheese) and coffee in an invitingly renovated 19th-century factory building on the western edge of Old Louisville. A second location in the ‘burbs (Westport Village) is now open. $ B Lf

PANCHITOS ICE CREAM 8112 Preston Hwy, 554-6222,. Lexingtonbased Panchito’s offers Mexican ice cream, popsicles (paletas), tacos, quesadillas and other Mexican snacks. The new Highlands outpost is in the former Bánh Mi Hero building. $ L D PARIS BANH MI & BAKERY 1237 Bardstown Rd., 384-9676. You will find a wide variety of Vietnamese sandwiches here, as well as pastries ranging from croissants to apple turnovers and a long list of cakes, some gluten-free. $$ B L D f PEARL STREET TREATS 301 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-8850.

An invigorating walk across the Big Four Bridge will bring you down very close to this family-run frozen yogurt shop that also serves soup, chili, cookies, popcorn, and frozen dog treats. Novelty soda flavors in the cooler, but they will refill your water bottle for free. $ L D PENNY AND PEARL'S BAKESHOP 106 Fairfax Ave., 890-6004.

This St. Matthews bakery offers 8 to 10 flavors daily of cookies with a crispy edge and a softer middle. Look for weekly specials which include snickerdoodle with brown butter, crème brulée cookies and salted caramel pretzel ‘sammies’. $ B L PHILLY'S BEST FROZEN DESSERTS 3912 Bardstown Rd., 9960640, 307 Wallace Ave., 916-2022. This variation on cold summer refreshment serves water ice, a summer staple in the owners’ hometown of Philadelphia. This version of flavored water uses a process that shaves ice until it is finely textured and creamy, to which is added a variety of sweet fruit flavors. $ L D f PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLLY FREEZE 5242 IN-62, Georgetown IN, 945-6911. The scenic drive out Highway 62 to this Southern Indiana institution on hot summer nights has been a tradition since 1952. Soft serve ice cream in any variation (cones, sundaes, shakes, floats), a wide range of burgers, dogs, sandwiches and sides. Worth the trip. $ L D f RAWNAISSANCE DESSERTS 1759 Bardstown Rd., 424-3638.

Owner Barbora Shneydman offers “guilt-free” dessert concoctions, a variety of chocolate and fruit truffles, and cakes made with raw vegan ingredients. Everything is free of sugar, grains, soy, dairy and eggs. $ L D SNOWHAT 3801 Poplar Level Rd., 742-6080. After a hot day at the zoo, stop by this New Orleans-style snoball shop for a cooling cone.

Blueberry and strawberry flavors, and for the more adventurous: lavender lemonade, watermelon basil and jalapeño margarita. $ L D SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 2311411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507.

This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEETS BY MORGAN 533 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 725-0080.

Owner Morgan Coomer is dedicated to scratch baking and using real butter in her icings. Expect the usual sweet bakery items like cookies and cupcakes, along with clever specialties. $ B L D THE BAKERY AT SULLIVAN UNIVERSITY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. The retail extension of Sullivan’s nationally known culinary program has been reanimated as a European-style, dine-in bakery café, with coffee, sandwiches and light fare in addition to breads, sweets and baked goods to go. $ B L THE FLOUR SHOPPE 619 Baxter Ave., 516-536-2253. Two veteran vegan bakers meet while working together at a commissary kitchen, then combine forces to conjure fully vegan cupcakes, brownies, cookies, and doughnuts (Sundays), with future plans that include custom-baked cakes and gluten-free items. $ L THE PEACH COBBLER FACTORY 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 4964020, 2237 Bardstown Rd., 690-4004. These dessert café makes a dozen or so fruit cobblers served with ice cream. Cinnamon rolls and banana puddings (tricked out with added flavors) are also on the menu. $ L D f WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $B

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Guide_WIN23_Ed-final.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 11/25/23 11:00 PM Page 77

7 BREW COFFEE 3545 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 479-358-9274, 12525 Shelbyville Rd., 479-358-9274. This rapidly expanding Arkansas-based chain of double-drive-thru coffee dispensaries, also featuring tea, smoothies, and infused energy drinks. $ B L D ABOL CAFÉ 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 384-9430. The coffee served in this St. Matthews shop is from Ethiopia, as are many of the dishes on the brunch menu, which includes checheba (Ethiopian flatbread served with scrambled egg or honey) and quanta firfir, a dried beef and tomato stew. $ B Br L f BARISTA PARLOR 500 W. Jefferson St., 615-429-3686. Emphasizing ethical sourcing, Barista Parlor’s first coffee shop outside its home of Nashville TN. Also biscuits, avocado toast and breakfast sandwiches. $ B L BEAN 1138 Goss Ave., 785-4079. $ B L BLACKBEARD ESPRESSO 718 W. Main St., 618-0004. Former food truck Blackbeard Espresso now has a Main St. storefront, taking over for Mrs. Potters. Look for coffee, hot and cold teas, milkshakes and smoothies, which the truck’s limited generator couldn’t handle.

Baked goods include muffins and scones for those who need a carb lift with their caffeine. $ B L BLAK KOFFEE 1219 W. Jefferson St. 290-3729. Black-owned business in the Russell neighborhood stressing diversity, community, quality and economic empowerment. In addition to coffee, tea and smoothies, the shop offers pastries, salads, breakfast items and sandwiches. $ B L BREW & SIP COFFEE BAR 3800 Shepherdsville Rd., 618-3416, 505 W. Broadway, 589-1020. Here you will find an ambitious menu of exotic coffee drinks, teas and smoothies, and, for an ostensible coffee bar, an unusual food menu: not just pastries, but sandwiches, wings, and soups. $ B L CAFE COMMONS 10616 Meeting St., 365-1059. What was once the FIX coffee shop is now Café Commons, with new ownership and a fresh mandate to deliver barista-created coffee to residents of the 600-acre Norton Commons mixed use community, including a compact menu of egg, cheese and sausage biscuit sandwiches, grilled cheese, donuts, cookies and macarons. $ B L f COFFEE CROSSING (1-888-465-6067) 140 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 410 Patrol Rd., Jeffersonville IN, 805 Talaina Pl., New Albany IN, 8105 Highway 311, Sellersburg, IN. All five locations please their Southern Indiana clientele with a full roster of coffee drinks, teas, cider and smoothies.$ B L f CULTIVATOR COFFEE 1415 E. Spring St., New Albany IN. Hot coffees and espresso here are sourced from Louisville’s Sunergos, while rotating guest roasters from across the country will provide pour-overs and iced coffees. $ B L D f

FRESCO TEA BAR 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 725-7691, 223 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN., 2441 State St.New Albany IN. , 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN.Bubble tea in many manifestations is the focus here, but stop in for a breakfast bagel or burrito, or cookies or fudge, or a wide selection of “wellness teas.” $ B L FULL STOP FILLING STATION 1132 E. St. Catherine St., 2608046. A former Germantown gas station converted to a full-service neighborhood coffee shop and kitchen, specializing in various human fuels: An extensive coffee program; hot food for breakfast, lunch and dinner; package and draft beer (also kombucha on tap); and a small market. $ B L p

SAFAI COFFEE 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555, 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). This casual spot boasts the ambiance of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, housemade crepes, and coffee roasted at the Logan Street Market, where there is a second shop. $ B L f

HARAZ COFFEE HOUSE 1541 Highland Ave., 690-2113, 655 Fourth St., 963-5813. The first two Louisville iterations of this family-owned café (four others operate in Michigan) are located downtown (in the historic Ohio Theater building) and in the Highlands. They take their identity from the mountainous Haraz coffee-producing region in Yemen, supplier of the family’s preferred organic beans.$ B D pf

SCOOTER'S COFFEE 4703 Dixie Hwy., 260-8642, 11506 Shelbyville Rd., 690-6349, 9060 Dixie Hwy., 690-4042., 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 290-2329, 3410 Preston Hwy., 384-7488, 210 Market Place Dr., 277-1193. This Omaha-based chain of drive-through coffee stops has plans to add several more Louisville-area locations to its portfolio of over 300 outlets around the Midwest. Red Bull infusions, too, and pastries and breakfast items. $ B L D

HEINE BROTHERS’ COFFEE (15 locations) Heine Bros. continues their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ f

SIS GOT TEA 976 Barret Ave., 694-2085. All things tea-related. Both brewed on-site and available by retail, with bakery goods, snacks.

Proprietor Arielle Clark’s shop is a Black, LGBTQ and womanowned safe and sober place.$

HIGHVIEW ICE CREAM & COFFEE 7525 Outer Loop, 618-3809.

This suburban oasis offers coffee and specialty coffee drinks made from Sunergos beans and serves locally-made Bernoulli Small Batch Ice Cream. $ B L D f

SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f

HONEY DEPOT & COFFEE HOUSE 10512 Watterson Tr., 2126228. This Jeffersontown location of HoneyBear Farms’ evolving retail concept stocks regionally-produced honey, jams and jellies in addition to serving locally-roasted coffee on premise, accompanied by pastries (including cinnamon rolls). $ B L f JACKDAW COFFEE & BOURBON BAR 120 S Floyd St., 977-4590.

The Cambria Hotel on Whiskey Row is a property of O’Reilly Hospitality Management, hence billing modern Irish “fusion” branding for its bar and restaurant, as revealed by the use of corned beef in the breakfast burrito, plus Irish bacon, a ploughman’s plate, and Irish soda bread. The cocktail list quite properly eschews Irish uisce beatha for the preferred Kentucky variant. $ B L D p KOLKIN COFFEE 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 599-8410.

This family run caffeine dispensary on the north side of New Albany serves coffee from Sunergos roastery in a cheerful, inviting environment. $ LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516.

Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L MICKEY’S 624 Vincennes St., New Albany IN. Owner Mickey Ball’s former McQuixote Books and Coffee in Portland lives on as a socially conscious used bookstore and coffee shop in New Albany, with Good Folks Coffee, Elmwood Inn Fine Teas and baked goods from Viking Hat Bakery and Payne Street Bakehouse. $ B L D f

DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 4561170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f

NTABA COFFEE HAUS 2407 Brownsboro Rd., 871-5082., 2860 Packerland Way, 919-7121. It is always fun to see former chain restaurant buildings repurposed. The one-time Pizza Hut in Clifton on Brownsboro Road is now a purveyor of African-sourced coffees and teas. A second location is open off Fern Valley Road near the airport. $ B L

FANTE'S COFFEE 2501 Grinstead Dr., 454-0543. Owner Leo Fante has been in the coffee business most of his life, and has finally opened his own shop across the road from Cherokee Park. Fante imports his beans from small suppliers around the world, and roasts on premise. There is also a limited menu of sandwiches, soups and salads, and breakfast pastries. $ B L D pf FLEUR DE TEA 10704 Meeting St.742-9561, 1212 S. Fourth St., 7429561. “When the journey of life gets steep, we steep tea.” Choose from a selection of tea varieties, bubble tea, pastries and wares and bubble tea at two stylish locations in Norton Commons and Old Louisville. $ B L D

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining RED = Advertiser

RED HOT ROASTERS 1399 Lexington Rd., 569-0000. Sondra Powell has closed her Butchertown Block sit down store and returned to purveying her excellent house-roasted coffee and refreshing coffee drinks from her drive-thru location in Irish Hill. $ f

FUN TEA 1613 Bardstown Rd., 749-1376. Tea in many variations – pure tea, milk tea, tea lattes, and Taiwanese bubble tea – can be found here, along with slushies, smoothies and bubble puff cake. $ LDf

DAD’S COFFEE 2204 Dundee Rd. Located in the former Breadworks location off Dundee Road, Dad’s serves locally roasted Quill’s coffee as well as baked goods sourced from Payne Street Bakehouse and The Pocket Bakery, along with chocolate chip cookies from “mom” (a.k.a., one of the co-owners). $ B L f

ENDLESS SUMMER PADDLE & COFFEE COMPANY 1301 Frankfort Ave., 203-1041. Located in the Waterside Apartments, this stand-up paddleboard livery also offers a coffee shop. Fresh juice, smoothies and snacks are available for paddlers, paddleboard students, and landlubbers. $ B L

QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 861-5947, 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 802 E. Main St. 10501 Watterson Trl.,3939 Shelbyville Rd., 11213 River Beauty Loop, 2001 Frankfort Ave. Since 2007, fans of this purveyor of locally roasted coffee and pro¬vider of amenable working spaces have found their caffeine fixes, specialty drinks and tea selection— and Wi-Fi hotspots—at multiple Louisville area locations.$ pf

PEARL STREET GAME & COFFEE HOUSE 405 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 648-1663. The name says it all: you can play your favorite boards games from the extensive library of such while enjoying coffee drinks, fresh fruit smoothies, lavender lattes, and sandwiches. $ B L D f PLEASE & THANK YOU 800 E. Market St., 553-0113, 2341 Frankfort Ave., 432-8614, 9561 U.S. Hwy 42, 544-9225. This small-batch bakery and coffeehouse offering quiches, panini, cookies, and a hip vibe. $ B L f PREGAME COFFEE 1737 Frankfort Ave., 645-0324. It’s a coffee shop. No, it’s a sports bar. Well, it is both. Stop in in the morning to talk about sports and order from a selection of coffee drinks, teas and beer and wine as well. Or come back during game time and watch your games in a coffee house environment. $ B L D p f

STARBUCKS COFFEE (46+ locations) $ f STARLIGHT COFFEE CO. 3131 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 542-1522, 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404, 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN. 748-7000. For almost twenty years this staple of the Southern Indiana coffee culture has been roasting and serving its custom-blends to happy Hoosiers. Owner Jim Book has recently expanded north to Sellersburg, where he will move the company’s roasting and wholesale operations. $ f STOMPING GROUNDS COFFEE CO. 10019 Dixie Hwy., 996-7473.

This friendly, locally-owned coffee shop serves Sunergos roasted coffees in all sorts of popular versions, hot and cold. $ B L D SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222, 1647 Norris Pl., 919-9676, 3922 Willis Ave., 956-3541. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ SWITCHBOARD 900 Baxter Ave. (The Myriad Hotel), 632-7931.

Myriad Hotel’s versatile sidekick to its main Paseo restaurant offers morning coffee-with-pastry, evening cocktails, and a Middle Eastern-influenced, day-long-small-bite menu, these nibbles ranging from olives, pickles, and labneh to a smoked fish rillette and sherry gigante beans.$$ B L THE BEP TEAHOUSE 1702 Bardstown Rd., 657-3252. The first-ever franchise of a Houston TX bubble tea chain stressing drinks made with organic tea and tapioca balls (or “boba”). Also Vietnameseinspired nibles (spring rolls, pot stickers) are available. $ L D pf THE COFFEE BOXX 1512 Portland Ave., 544-5787. This new Portland coffee bar fills the former McQuixote Books and Coffee space and offers all you’d expect: a range of popular coffee drinks, teas and some specialty items such as Vietnamese coffee and caramel cream cold brew. $ B L f THE COFFEE ZONE 9601 Whipps Mill Rd., 708-1522. North Carolinian transplant Craig Bishop has established a beachhead in Louisville. In addition to some good java, he features bakery items, such as pastries, and assorted sandwiches. $ f THE OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE CO-OP 316 W. Ormsby Ave. A unique worker-owned business with an ambitious agenda, including partnerships with Three Keys Coffee (Houston TX), Sis Got Tea and Kizito Cookies; a 24-hour schedule on weekends; the offering of alternatives to the bar scene for people in recovery; and serving as an LGBTQ safe space. $ B L D TIGER SUGAR 1501 Bardstown Rd., 365-4155. It’s the first Kentucky outpost of the Taiwan-based bubble tea shop chain, which has earned its “tiger stripes” among connoisseurs worldwide via clever hand-poured syrup infusions. $ L D

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 77

MAP INDEX

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 78

MAP # DIRECTION DOWNTOWN 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel

78 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

PAGE #

80 81 82 83

MAP # DIRECTION EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder

PAGE #

84 85 86 86

MAP # DIRECTION WEST 9 west louisville NORTH EAST 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge

PAGE #

87

87 87 88

MAP # DIRECTION SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 15 clarksville INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

MAP INDEX

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 79

PAGE #

89 90 91 91

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 79

DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 80

80 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

MAP • 2

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 81

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 81

(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

MAP • 3

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 82

82 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

MAP • 4

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 83

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 83

(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

MAP • 5

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 84

84 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

MAP • 6

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 85

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 85

MAP • 8 (FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT MAP • 7

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 86

86 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

MAP • 11 (SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

MAP • 10

(WEST) WEST LOUISVILLE

MAP • 9

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 87

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 87

(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

MAP • 12

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 88

88 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

MAP • 13

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 89

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 89

(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 90

90 Winter 2023 www.foodanddine.com

MAP • 16

(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

MAP • 15

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 91

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2023 91

Maps_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 11/25/23 11:23 PM Page 92

Cover Pages_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 11/25/23 6:00 PM Page 3

Cover Pages_Winter23_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 11/25/23 6:00 PM Page 4