Cover Pages_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 3/1/20 9:28 PM Page 1
Cover Pages_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 3/1/20 9:28 PM Page 2
Contents_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/20 9:26 PM Page 1
Contents_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/20 9:36 PM Page 2
Contents_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/20 9:26 PM Page 3
Contents_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/20 9:26 PM Page 4
SPRING 2020
PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MARTY ROSEN EXECUTIVE EDITOR RON MIKULAK WEB EDITOR ROGER BAYLOR RESEARCH GURU JON LARMEE PHOTOGRAPHERS DAN DRY ANDY HYSLOP COLUMNISTS SARA HAVENS MICHAEL L. JONES RON MIKULAK SUSAN REIGLER FEATURE WRITERS ROGER BAYLOR MARTY ROSEN ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD GRAPHIC DESIGN & PRODUCTION ED ROTHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES KAREN SHANE
Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 502.509.EATS (3287)
www.foodanddine.com socialmedia@foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine @FoodAndDining
For advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS) Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.
ON THE COVER
Verlasso salmon from SOU! Southern Kitchen (page 24). Photo by Dan Dry. 4
Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
Contents_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Contents_for Robin.qxd 3/1/20 9:27 PM Page 5
contents SPRING 2020 | VOLUME 67
RESTAURANT GUIDE
44 | Dining Guide 82 | Maps
Our comprehensive listing of over 1,400 area restaurants, complete with reviews.
(RESTAURANT LOCATOR)
Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.
FEATURES
24 |
PROFILE | SOU! Southern Kitchen & Bar Over the course of his 25-year career, Chef James Moran has become known among insiders as a Chef’s Chef. Now, with business partner Ashley Sayler, his restaurant SOU! is wowing Louisville diners.
PROFILE | Logan Street Market | 38
The Logan Street Market is building a new kind of shopping and dining experience in the heart of the city.
COLUMNS Starters
8| 12 |
COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes in the local restaurant scene — with openings, closings, changes and more.
BAR BELLE | New & Old For over a decade, Sara Havens has been offering wise and witty commentary on the Louisville bar scene. Now she joins F&D — with a pub crawl primer!
Liquids
14 |
BOURBON | At-Home Bourbon Tastings Susan Reigler offers advice on how to conduct your own Bourbon tasting.
Food
16 |
FISH FRY | A Guide to Lenten Fish Frys
20 | 30 | 36 |
COOKING WITH RON | Home Style Fish
The Lenten Fish Fry has a complicated history, a great tradition, and an appetizing present. We have the golden goods with a complete list of all area fish frys.
Frying is fine, but during this Lenten season, why not try some other techniques?
EASY ENTERTAINING | Fresh Ideas for Preparing Fish Tim and Lori Laird asked three area chefs to conjure up some new ways to prepare fish. Prepare to get hooked!
FOOD | World-Class Paella A microsurgeon and scholar with a flair for Spanish cuisine dishes up paella for Louisville diners.
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020
5
Comings & Goings_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/20 10:38 PM Page 6
Comings & Goings_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/20 10:38 PM Page 7
Comings & Goings_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/20 10:38 PM Page 8
starters | comings & goings
comings & goings
BY RON MIKULAK
I confess that I spent the hiatus between last year’s Winter issue and this Spring 2020 issue feeling certain that my job here would be easier this first issue of the new year. The dreary, rainy, grey winter, with temperatures wildly swinging between eerily unseasonal balminess to face-stinging cold windy days, would, I was sure, put the damper on restaurateurs’ ambitions, leaving me with a shorter list of new businesses to have to narrate here. But it seems that the seasonal blahs that left me mopey and listless served only to rev up the ambitions and hopes of the restaurant business community. This issue F&D is listing 38 brand new dining spots, of which 13 are additional locations for established restaurants. On the negative side of the ledger, 21 restaurants have given up the ghost. Three of that number are multi-location restaurants that have closed one outlet but continue serving at others. And a relatively high seven business have either moved to new locations, or are changing the design of their businesses enough to warrant mention. The totals then are 38 new dining choices opened against 21 that have closed — another positive quarter for the still-robust Louisville dining scene.
NEW TABLES
Three new high-style dining spots are on the verge of entering the scene. Barn8 (10500 W. Hwy. 42 in Goshen) is the newest project from the 21C Museum hotel chain founders Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson. The renovation of one of the outbuildings on their 600acre Hermitage Farm into a rustic-classy dining and events space will likely become a significant culinary destination. Executive Chef Alison Settle will make sure their appetites, as well as their curiosity, will be sated. Their scheduled opening is March 18. On April 24, the revolving floor atop the Galt House’s West Tower (140 N. Fourth St.) will continue to spin for the restaurant space’s latest incarnation, Swizzle, where the menu will focus on prime steaks, chops and sustainable seafood. Churchill Downs (700 Central Ave.) is continuing with substantial renovations and additions, including adding the Matt Winn Steakhouse just in time for Derby. Executive Chef David Danielson plans a classic premium steakhouse menu on Millionaire’s Row, which will be open not just during the racing meets, but all year long. Some familiar dining locations have assumed new identities.The former Ward 426 building (426 Baxter Ave.) is now home to Agave & Rye Epic Tacos. The Covington-based business offers tacos with an eclectic flare — kangaroo meat, lobster, Jamaican jerk mahi-mahi and several vegetarian options. The space at 129 W. Main St. that has recently seen a succession of Mexican restaurants, has been taken over by the neighboring Doc Crow’s for Doc’s Bourbon Room. There you will find a thousand Bourbons (in case you’re counting), as well as other distilled spirit choices, and an upscale bar food menu with munchies and shared plates. In case that’s not what the doctor ordered for you, you’ll also find a coffee shop with perfect hours: it opens early and closes late. On St. Patrick’s Day, The Ainsworth will open in the St. Matthews 8 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
building (3929 Shelbyville Rd.) formerly home to the original BBC location and more recently Sullivan’s Tap House. The Ainsworth is an upscale pub, with dishes like a mac & cheese burger and wings finished with a sprinkling of edible gold leaf. Three new eating spots are opening (or have opened) in Jeffersonville. Famed Southern Indiana bartender Tony Revak finally has a place to call his own in Harry’s (130 W. Riverside Dr.). This familyfriendly sports bar with a southern and Creole influenced menu plans to open in time for March Madness at the former Flat 12 Bierwerks space. Set for an April 15 opening, That’s My Dog (125 W. Chestnut St.) will give hot dog eaters a choice of 30 toppings as they go through the serving line, and invites pet owners to bring their own dogs, hot or not, to the pet-friendly patio. And Parnelli’s Chicago Eatery has opened at 3548 E. Tenth St. St. Matthews has a new burger place, BurgerIM (3733 Lexington Rd.). In addition to several kinds of beef patty, BurgerIM also puts falafel, chicken, lamb and salmon between buns. In late March, Hometown Brewing Co. (4041 Preston Hwy.) will be producing ales and the like next to Hometown Pizza. The beers made there will be served at all the Hometown Pizza restaurants around the state. Two new concepts from Fernando Martinez and his Olé Restaurant Group will begin serving at the end of March: La Bodeguita de Mima (725 E. Market St.) will be channeling a pre-Castro Cuban nightlife ambiance and offering upscale Cuban-influenced cuisine, including a lobster enchilada; Señora Arepa (721 E. Market St.), behind La Bodeguita, will focus on Venezuelan street foods, such as the namesake stuffed masa patty. Other new Latin-oriented restaurants are Dos Gringos (149 Spring St., Jeffersonville), El Frijol (1999 Brownsboro Rd.) and I Love Tacos (9909 Taylorsville Rd.). Continued on page 10
Comings & Goings_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 5:59 PM Page 9
Comings & Goings_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/20 10:39 PM Page 10
starters | comings & goings Gogi 1055 Korean BBQ (1055 Bardstown Rd.) has renovated and totally transformed the former Buffalo Wild Wings building on Bardstown Road. Patrons will be able to grill their own meats at tabletop gas burners. Honest Indian (9008 Taylorsville Rd.) is the local outlet for this international Indian food chain located in the Stony Brook Shopping Center. Pier 17 Cajun Seafood (1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.) will bring the Gulf coast phenomenon of Vietnamese-Cajun fusion cuisine to Louisville. At Vibes Restaurant and Ultra Lounge (1346 River Rd.) you can chill out in the sophisticated space while listening to an eclectic mix of music, and enjoy an upscale bar menu with everything from egg rolls to steak salad to sandwiches, pizza, and grilled salmon. If you like your reality virtual, crave to zoom around VR tracks, or maybe the feel of throwing real axes and busting stuff up a “Rage Room,” OvrDrive Games (112 W. Jefferson St.) is your kind of place. When you’re ready to chill, visit the self-pour tap wall of craft beers and premixed cocktails, Other new restaurants include La Chandeleur (304 W. Woodlawn Ave.) which will begin dishing up crêpes in Beechmont at the end of April; Pure Blendz (1001 Logan St.) is a health food smoothie stand inside Logan Street Market; Sea Fresh Seafood (8129 Bardstown Rd.) brings an array of seafood to Fern Creek; and Scooter’s Triple B’s (3840 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.), where you can find burgers, beer and ball games. With confidence that the future is likely to be at least as economically stable as the present, the owners of a full dozen successful existing restaurants have plans to open, or have opened, additional locations in the last three months. Biscuit Belly (818 W. Kenwood Dr.) will open its third breakfast and lunch spot in April, this one in the South End’s Colonial Gardens complex. Carali’s Rotisserie Chicken has opened two new stores, in the Lower Highlands (642 Baxter Ave.) and in Middletown (12531 Shelbyville Rd.), bringing their total of outlets to four. Louie’s Hot Chicken and Barbecue (505 W. Broadway) has taken over the former City Café building at the corner of Broadway and Fifth for a second outlet. Great Flood Brewing Co. has expanded to the Middletown suburbs at 12717 Shelbyville Rd., and Heine Brothers Coffee has again looked north, and opened its 17th coffee shop at 3060 Gottbrath Pkwy. in Jeffersonville. Derby City Pizza has opened its sixth store at 9910 Linn Station Rd. and Jersey Mike’s Subs has its third local outlet at 1983 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. The following restaurants have all opened — or will soon open — second locations: Barry’s Cheesesteak (2500 Bardstown Rd.); Bud’s Tavern Good Food & Barbecue (9119 Galene Dr.); Cancun (9424 Shelbyville Rd.); Union 15 (1301 Story Ave.); and Recbar 812 (336 Pearl St., New Albany).
CLOSINGS
The closings we have to report include several long-time dining favorites and some relative newcomers who couldn’t carve out a stable spot in the market. At one end of the restaurant hierarchy, Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse (101 Whittington Pkwy.) closed suddenly after a long and classy run. On the other end of the dining spectrum, Jerry’s J10 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
Boy (4832 Dixie Hwy.) has closed, the last of its breed and the repository of nostalgia for a simpler age of teenage cruising and socializing. Downtown, Griff’s (133 W. Liberty St.), the sports bar named after basketball star Darrell Griffith, suddenly closed its doors. In Clifton, the ambitious Asian street food spot Mirin (2011 Frankfort Ave.) closed with a very public bang on social media. Out in Prospect, the Italian restaurant Bistro 42 (6021 Timber Ridge Dr.) has ceased serving. Several other restaurants noted for either their longevity or their unique dining focus have closed. Desserts by Helen (3500 Frankfort Ave.) has closed its retail store, but will still cater her luscious cakes. Sullivan University has closed its retail store The Bakery (3100 Bardstown Rd.) to concentrate its resources on teaching baking skills in its culinary education program. At the Italian Table, Gina Stipo’s small, sincere trattoria at 2359 Frankfort Ave. will close April 18 after a five-year run. Himalayan Restaurant (1578 Bardstown Rd.) lasted two years, but has now closed. Across the river, Longboard’s Taco & Tiki (302 Pearl St.) had a brief but entertaining life in New Albany. The locations of a couple of businesses that have closed have quickly found new life. The owners of Sullivan’s Tap House (3929 Shelbyville Rd.) have ended that concept, but have opened The Ainsworth in the same location. Flat 12 Bierwerks (130 W. Riverside Dr.) has closed, but that site in Jeffersonville will soon be Harry’s. Other closings include Danish Express (102 Cannons Ln.); Cox’s Hot Chicken (134 Spring St, Jeffersonville); The Butchertown Social (1601 Story Ave.); and El Vaquero (5414 Bardstown Rd.). Also closed are Pita Pit (434 W. Jefferson St.); Kentucky Taco Company (502 Warnock St.); La Bonita Tienda Mexicana (1999 Brownsboro Rd.) and The Arctic Scoop (841 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.). Three multi-location businesses have closed one site each: Barry’s Cheesesteaks and More (7502 Preston Hwy.); Morris Deli’s outpost at the U of L Medical Center (110 W. Chestnut St.); and Señor Iguanas (9424 Shelbyville Rd.).
MOVES & CHANGES
A number of interesting moves and changes by a variety of businesses are worth noting. The popular barVetti (800 S. Fourth St.), constrained by the limited space in its glitzy renovated first floor in the 800 Building south of Broadway, is moving by late April to a larger space in the AC Hotel (727 E. Market St.) in NuLu. Across the river, Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet (1515 E. Market St. ) is also relocating to more spacious quarters in the former Destination Booksellers building (604 E. Spring St.) in New Albany. The popular Seafood Lady (107 W. Oak St.) has left Old Louisville for larger digs downtown at 601 E. Jefferson St. and Angio’s Pizza has moved to 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy. John Varanese has renovated the upstairs space at his River House/The Levee complex (3015 River Rd.) into the 300 seat capacity event space he is calling Savor. And Tony Palombino continues to redefine his Boombozz pizza empire, gradually remodeling and refocusing his various branches into Boombozz Pizza· Watch Bar, a more sports-oriented concept. The Highlands store (1448 Bardstown Rd.) just reopened the first week of March and the Westport Village location (1315 Herr Ln.) will reopen on April 1. F&D
Comings & Goings_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/20 10:39 PM Page 11
Bar Belle_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/20 10:44 PM Page 12
liquids | bars
Back in the saddle...................
The return of
The Bar Belle .................................................. BY SARA HAVENS
Fashioned. Now, not only is it our city's official cocktail, but you can even get a decent one at PT's! No kidding. I'm not saying every bar in town needs to have a cocktail menu or take 15 minutes concocting a Mai Thai using fresh-squeezed juices and housemade tonics, I just mean that even at a Dixie Highway biker bar, you can usually score a decent drink or at least choose from a respectable list of bourbons on the shelf to sip on while you throw back a beer. So let's take a look at some of these newcomers to the bar scene — where you're guaranteed to experience both unconventional and traditional mixology at its finest.
Old, new, tried and true: A Louisville Pub Crawl Primer
Don't call it a comeback, I've been here for years actually. Some of you may remember this here column from my LEO Weekly days, where it ran for about eight years until 2014, when I hopped over to Insider Louisville and resumed my late-night shenanigans there. As we learn at last call, all good things must come to an end, and after Insider closed last year, I found my column without an outlet. Of course I have my own website — barbellelou.com — but I'm tech savvy enough to know that I lost some faithful readers through the cracks of Facebook, Twitter, blogs and White Claw. But at last I have returned to Louisville print media thanks to the fine crew here at Food & Dining — most of whom I have worked with over the years in one form or another — and I'm ready to celebrate, give a voice to and relish Louisville's nightlife scene. You may ask, as many do after a round of tequila, “How are you able to keep up after all these years?” I just smile, as I escort them to their Uber, and say, “Everything in moderation, dear friend, except for love, happiness and fine Kentucky bourbon.” But enough about me. It's time to talk about drinking, and more importantly, drinking in our best neighborhood bars, watering holes, tried-and-true taverns, fancy cocktail clubs, hipster lounges and sassy saloons. After all, it's almost Derbytime — which may be the fastest two minutes in sports, but it's the longest two months for your liver.
Meet the newbies
Among the tidal wave of positive outcomes from this whole bourbon boom is that it's forced the Louisville bar scene to up its game. No longer will we accept mediocre, because chances are, a new establishment with better drinks, more choices and fresh concepts will be opening right around the corner. I remember the days — long before millennials could drink — when two out of three Louisville bartenders had no idea how to make an Old 12 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
Trouble Bar (1149 S. Shelby St.) — This Shelby Park cocktail hub knows a little something about bourbon — and how people prefer to consume it. Geared toward both bourbon virgins and gigolos, the ladies behind the bar can whip up a solid Old Fashioned (even in pitcher form!) or select a flight of whiskeys based on your tastes and preferences. The simple, retro décor adds to the no-frills attitude of the joint, and dogs are always welcome — which is a bonus in my book!
The Limbo (411 W. Chestnut St.) — If a city's cup runneth over with bourbon, why not open a rum bar? That's the idea behind The Limbo, a tiki-themed bar located downtown next to the South Fourth Street district. Of course there is bourbon on the menu, but the magic of the place is in the details.The drinks are delicious and freshly made, usually served in fun, ceramic glassware in the shape of fish, parrots, mermaids and Hawaiian ladies playing ukuleles.
High Horse (1032 Story Ave.) — This Butchertown dive bar is a breath of fresh air — and that's saying a lot in a neighborhood where deep breaths are not advised. The space has been home to numerous bars throughout the past few decades, including the infamous Do Drop Inn, but this one should stick, as the prices are extremely affordable ($5 Old Fashioneds any time of day) and the vibe is laidback.
Other suggestions: There are so many more to get to, but due to space constraints, I'll just list them here. Don't forget to check out the newly renovated Jockey Silks inside the Galt House (140 N. Fourth St.) and while you're downtown, there's also Bar Moxy inside the Moxy hotel (100 W. Washington St.), that serves tacos 24/7, and a few doors away the justopened Doc's Bourbon Room (129 W. Main St.), with more than 2,000 bottles of whiskey. If you're over in the Highlands/Germantown area, stop by ShopBar (950 Barret Ave.) as well, a chill place to spend the evening sipping expertly crafted cocktails or just a PBR.
Don’t forget our stable staples
Yes, new is exciting. But there's something to be said about the comfort of familiarity. Truth is, Louisville boasts many bars that have stood the test of
Bar Belle_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/20 10:44 PM Page 13
bars | liquids
.
.
time because they're well-run, know their audience and are just fun places to pass the time. I'd love to list all my favorite haunts here, but then there'd be no food nor dining in this issue of F&D.
The Back Door (1250 Bardstown Road) — What? Did you think I was going to leave out my home away from home? This 35-year-old Louisville staple is a gem in disguise, and only those who have experienced its powers and powerful pours know what it's capable of. The motto is “From bikers to brain surgeons.” That’s not a career path, necessarily, but it’s pretty damn precise when taking an informal survey of patrons. Just go, order the wings, and you won't be disappointed.
Outlook Inn (916 Baxter Ave.) — Pretentiousness used to run rampant in the Highlands, but thankfully that has now moved on to St. Matthews. This old faithful establishment has always bucked the in-crowd, and that's what I've liked about it. Plus, they've been beefing up their bourbon selection since the boom first began and now boast a collection most dream about.
Air Devil's Inn (2802 Taylorsville Road) — The granddaddy of Louisville bars, this 86-year-old tattered tavern is still kickin' it like an old-school juke box stuck on Waylon Jennings. The beer is cold and the company keeps to themselves — unless it's free chili night or the band takes the stage. Then you might be asked to dance.
Other notorious notables: Again, I'd love to list all my favorites, but you know… in print media there are word counts. If you're in town for Derby, point your Google Maps to these places: The Pearl (1151 Goss Ave.) for a throwback, affordable dive bar; Gerstle's (3801 Frankfort Ave.) for some live music; Taj (807 E. Market St.) for bourbon and beer (plus boozy slushies); Merle's Whiskey Kitchen (122 W. Main St.) for $3 bourbon and tequila shots all day, every day; Check’s Cafe (1101 E. Burnett Ave.) in Germantown for the ultimate karaoke experience on Thursdays; Meta (425 W. Chestnut St.) for killer cocktails; Patrick’s (3202 Frankfort Ave.) for dive-bar debauchery — and karaoke; Joe's Older Than Dirt (8131 New La Grange Rd.) for East End shenanigans; Shenanigans (1611 Norris Pl.) for, well, Highlands shenanigans; and Big Bar (1202 Bardstown Rd.) for a carefree, all-inclusive atmosphere with great drinks, cheap beer and more boozy slushies. More musings from The Bar Belle can be found at barbellelou.com. F&D
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 13
Spirits_Bourbon_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/20 11:22 PM Page 14
liquids | bourbon Tasting whiskey is not like tasting wine. Whiskey, including bourbon, is far higher in alcohol by volume than wine and needs to be approached with some serious respect. The good news here is that a bottle of bourbon lasts a lot longer than a bottle of wine, since you are drinking it by the ounce, not by the glass. To enjoy every sip of that ounce (or two) here are some techniques for mindful tasting you can put into practice in your home and also apply to enjoying bourbon at your favorite bar or restaurant.
How To
Conduct Your Own
In-Home Bourbon Tasting BY SUSAN REIGLER | PHOTO BY DAN DRY
14 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
Four Dimensions Appreciation has four components: Appearance, Nose, Taste, and Finish
Because of its classic hue, Kentucky’s Finest is often referred to as Amber Elixir. But bourbons express themselves in a range of color from pale straw to dark bronze, even red. Often, though not always, the darker the hue, the longer the bourbon has been aged in its charred oak barrel. Higher proof bourbon may be a bit darker than lower proof ones, too. But the Nose — aromas emerging from the glass — is where the true sensory action begins. Many whiskey drinkers favor the Glencairn glass developed for evaluating Scotch. Its bulbous base allows the whiskey to evaporate a bit, but then the chimney-shaped neck holds and concentrates aromas. A tulip-shaped wine glass will do much the same. Some people are fine with rocks glasses. Whatever the glass, do not just stick your nose down into it. All you will smell is alcohol. (Remember that high alcohol by volume!) My favored technique is to nose the glass with
my mouth partially open.Then I turn my head and exhale to blow away the alcohol. I nose again. Voila! The aromas of vanilla, caramel, fruits, spices, and nuts, leather, tobacco, and a raft of other aromas depending on the bourbon, will greet you. Now, take a sip and let the bourbon move around in your mouth. (Yes, this is the famous Kentucky Chew.) What is the texture like? (The fancy word for that is mouthfeel.) Is it thin and watery or rich and tongue-coating? Somewhere in between? Are there flavors on the palate that were not on the nose? Did some promising aromas vanish upon tasting? Finally, how long does the flavor linger in your mouth and throat? And which flavors predominate until the end? That’s the finish. If it disappears quickly, the finish is short. If you are still tasting the whiskey after a couple of minutes, that’s long. If you feel some warmth in your chest, that’s the always-welcome Kentucky Hug.
Amplifying the Notes
Water will change whisky, too. That’s because it acts as a solvent to break apart aromatic molecules that are binding with the alcohol.This is especially true of high proof bourbons. Add two or three drops of water. Let the glass sit for a minute and try the nosing and tasting again. You can also amplify the fruit notes on the palate by eating a dried cherry or dried cranberry. Then taste again. Have a sip of water. Then eat a pecan. The nut will wipe away the fruit and bring the oak tannins to the fore.Take another sip of water, eat a caramel candy, and the various flavor factions will magically meld back together.
Spirits_Bourbon_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/1/20 11:22 PM Page 15
bourbon | liquids
The Set-Up
In addition to having bourbon, glasses, and the aforementioned nibbles, everyone tasting should have a glass of room temperature water, a spoon for adding a little water or a dropper bottle, access to oyster crackers for palate cleansing (some people favor corn chips), and a “dump bucket” for discarding excess/unpalatable bourbon. A tasting mat is very useful so that you can not only keep track of which glass is which, but you can put information such as percentage alcohol (proof), mash bill (grain recipe), age (there may not be an age statement), and the distillery where it was made. The most basic tasting would, of course, involve one bourbon, so a mat would not be necessary. Just follow the steps of eying, nosing, tasting, and using the fruit, nut, and caramel.
A Tasting Strategy
For a very basic comparison offer a trio of bourbon styles — traditional, wheated, high rye. A traditional bourbon will be made with about 70% corn, 20% rye, and 10% malted barley. Wheated bourbon substitutes wheat for the rye in various proportions. A high rye bourbon will have a lower percentage of corn (in the sixties) and use more rye. Many bourbon lovers find wheated bourbon to be sweeter and smoother than the
traditional ones, and the high rye to A Vocabulary of Flavor have more peppery spice. (Consider Here are some examples of the aromas and flavors you the difference between whole wheat might encounter and wish to describe during your tastings. and rye bread.) But the best thing The overwhelming flavor characteristics of bourbon are about tasting whiskey is that there are vanilla and caramel. What adds variety include (but are not no wrong answers. Everyone’s palate is limited to) the following flavors which may or may not be different as well as everyone having a present. Some will be subtle, others dominant. different flavor vocabulary. For examSweet • Brown sugar, Butterscotch, Chocolate, Honey, ple, if you’ve never tasted chocolate — Hard candy, Maple, Sorghum, Toffee. which would be criminal — you would Fruit • Apple, Apricot, Banana, Berry, Cherry, Date, Fig, not be able to put a name to an aroma Orange, Peach, Pear, Plum, Red currant. or taste of cocoa in your bourbon. Spices • Allspice, Anise, Black pepper, Cinnamon, Clove, Another good rule of thumb is to Ginger, Nutmeg. taste your lowest proof bourbon first Herbal • Dill, Mint, Peppermint, Sassafras, Tobacco. and highest proof last so you don’t burn Other • Biscuits, Floral, Leather, Nuts, Oak (woody). out your palate. Drink lots of water! It can be intimidating at first to try to describe aromas and flavors.You think you rectasting to see if you can determine the least ognize that taste, but you just can’t put a name to expensive and most expensive bottles in your it. Multiple choice might make that easier. tasting. The possibilities are almost endless. Hundreds of flavor notes have been detected in The object of the whole exercise is to discover whiskeys; the accompanying sidebar lists some of what resonates with your palate and to have the most common. some fun doing it. Happy sipping! When you are feeling more confident, you can branch out to all kinds of comparisons. Different F&D bourbon columnist Susan Reigler’s next expressions of the same brand, such as the Four book, written with Peggy Noe Stevens, is Which Roses family of bourbons or the Old Forester Fork Do I Use with My Bourbon? Setting the Table Whiskey Row series, can be fascinating. Compare for Tastings, Food Pairings, Dinners, and Cocktail bourbons that are all the same proof. Do a blind Parties. It will be released in April. F&D
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 15
Fish Frys_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/20 11:31 PM Page 16
food | fish frys
Fishy Politics
“Popish” was deemed suspicious, including eating fish on Fridays, during Lent, or on any of the other scores of Catholic fasting days that occupied almost half the calendar of the time. Suddenly, the country lost its appetite for fresh cod, salted herring, eels, and every other kind of seafood. It was a change that rippled through the entire economy, affecting the demand for ships and boats, sails and ropes, and, of course, the hearty sailors and fishermen themselves. Thirty years later, the decline in the fishing industry turned into a crisis. During the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, Britain’s seafaring capacity had declined to the point that Parliament decided it was a risk to national security and something had to be done. In 1563, in the House of Commons, Sir William Winter argued that “it is necessary for the restoring of the navy of England to have more fish eaten and therefor one day more in the week ordained to be a fish day…” In a scholarly article called “Piscatorial Politics Revisited,” R.C.L. Sgroi argues that what became known as “Political Lent” was both a matter of economics, national self-image, and national defense. And although Sgroi doesn’t make the case, a person might guess that the rejuvenation of the fishing industry — and all its related activities — might have played a role in England’s famous naval defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588.
FRYDAYS Then&Now
†
The Lenten Fish Fry traces his roots back to the earliest centuries of Catholic practice. From as early as the second century A.D., the ichthys (the “sign of the fish”) had become a secret symbol used by Christians in recognition of the importance of fish and fishermen in the Gospels. For nearly two millennia, the consumption of fish on days of abstention has played a prominent role in Roman Catholic tradition and practice. It’s a tradition that continues today all over the world. In Louisville alone, dozens of area churches host annual Fish Frys during Lent. But it turns out that all those centuries of fasting days have also had an enormous impact on history and the global economy. In 1533, England’s King Henry VIII decided to divorce his wife, Catherine of Aragon, in order to marry Anne Boleyn. Of course, we all know what happened next: a radical change in England’s diet and a crisis in its fishing industry. Oh, sure, that’s not the story you’ll see on Masterpiece Theatre or dozens of Hollywood films, but in the ports and kitchens of England it was big news. England, of course, was a seafaring and fishing nation. One day it was a Catholic country with an assortment of more than 800 Church institutions. Then it wasn’t: all the monasteries were dissolved by the King. Practicing Roman Catholicism became an act of treason. Any behavior that looked Volunteers serve happy diners on Preston Highway at the Guardian Angels Catholic Church Fish Fry.
PHOTO BY DAN DRY
BY MARTY ROSEN
PHOTOS BY WAYNE TUCSON
16
Fish Frys_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/20 11:31 PM Page 17
fish frys | food
A Preston Highway Tradition
The Fish Fry at Guardian Angels Catholic Church on Preston Highway dates back to the year the Parish was established, in 1957. And it’s still going strong. In years past, when I’ve visited, the crowds have been enormous, the lines have encircled the outside of the building, and the food has been spectacular. This spring, when I dropped by for the first Fry of the season (they start a couple of weeks before Lent), the cafeteria was thronged and what looked to be forty or fifty volunteers of all ages were dipping, breading, frying, plating, serving fish and sides, bussing tables, roaming the room offering refills, selling chances, and welcoming customers. Frank and Kathy Ellington have led the Fish Fry for the last five years (they’re turning it over to a new team during the course of this season). Frank says that although Fridays are intense, much of the work happens before the crowds descend. Everything on the menu (except the French fries) is made in-house the day before the Fry itself: the cracker crumb breading, baked beans, macaroni and cheese, coleslaw, tartar sauce, cocktail sauce, etc. The fish filets are sourced from a local vendor (Olivia’s Catch). It’s an enormous community undertaking — and although many of the volunteers are from the Parish, anyone is welcome, and as I talked to folks in the kitchen I met several whose only prior connection to the Parish was that they liked the food and thought it looked like fun. Indeed it does. All the kitchen activities are visible from the cafeteria, and the calm, organized frenzy of an operation that will put out hundreds of pounds of fish in a few hours (the exact amount is “proprietary information” says Ellington with a smile), is something to see. At any given moment three people are staffing five fryers stocked with ten baskets, each of which holds six pieces of fish. This year, the three fry cooks are Kelly Dauenhauer, Dave Newton, Steven Koch.Their work is as precisely coordinated as a dance team, as they bob and weave around one another and scan the front counter to gauge their timing to assure that they’re keeping pace and don’t get ahead of or behind the
demand for fish. On this afternoon, early in the season, they can pause for a few moments between batches, and still keep up with the demand. Later in the season, they won’t be able to draw a breath. But now, every few minutes sixty crisp, golden filets are lifted forth and transferred piping hot to the front of the line where they’re sandwiched between bread and handed across the counter along the chosen sides.
ﱚﱛﱙﱙﱙﱙﱙﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱚ
About 400 years later, another similar disruption in the Catholic diet occurred. In 1966, Pope Paul VI issued a decree relaxing the rules on fasting and abstinence and the Catholic Bishops in the U.S. put an end to mandatory meatless Fridays except during Lent. By 1968, according to an article called “The Pope and the Price of Fish,” in the American Economic Review, that action had already caused a reduction in demand that led to a 12.5% decline in the price of fish at the dock. My guess is that Louisville fought against that trend.
Fish Frys a Crucial Fundraiser
In the early years, says Frank Ellington, this Fish Fry was the crucial fundraiser for a new parish trying to support its school. Back then, he says the Fish Frys were a year-round event. But after 1966, the pace reduced. These days, it’s a Lenten affair, but the Parish always gets things underway early, starting a couple of weeks before Lent. On the first Friday of this season’s Fry, things were pretty calm at first. The Fry opens its doors at 4 pm (or a bit earlier), and at 5:30 you could step right up to the counter and place your order. By 6:30, the pace cranked up. The counter was crowded, the long tables were filling up. People were catching up and greeting one another, and toward the front of the room, a cheery woman approached me and asked me if I was a first-timer. She introduced herself as Helen Sinkhorn, and told me she’s been a member of the Parish since the beginning. Her children attended school at Guardian Angels back in the 1960s, and though she no longer lives in the neighborhood, she still comes back each spring to take part in the Lenten Fish Fry. It’s not a sacrifice for her, but more a kind of communion that brings her together with a community she’s been part of for decades and still continues on as a vibrant force for dozens of volunteers, many of whom told me it’s something they look forward to all year long. In my old beat, covering food and dining for The Courier-Journal, every year I attended several Fish Frys, across the entire Metro region. Many were sponsored by churches. Some were sponsored by veterans or fraternal organizations or lodges. They all have their own distinct character and ambiance. Some are held in gymnasiums where kids shoot hoops at one end goal while people dine under the other. Sometimes they’re held in bars. Sometimes the menus are as simple as can be — fish and sides and mass-market beers. Sometimes the menus include items like panfried oysters and bratwurst and craft beers and wine. Some Frys feature an array of homemade desserts prepared by the parishioners, and some bring in desserts from commercial bakeries. But across the many Fish Frys I’ve visited, there is one constant: everybody is welcome.
ﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙﱛﱙ
SEE THE FOLLOWING PAGE FOR A FULL LIST OF ALL 2020 FISH FRY LOCATIONS
wwwfoodanddine.com Spring 2020 17
Fish Frys_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/20 11:31 PM Page 18
food | fish frys
FISH FRY 2020 LIST
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Albert the Great 1395 Girard Drive Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Ascension 4600 Lynnbrook Drive Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20 5:30-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Athanasius 5915 Outer Loop Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27 4:30-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Augustine 1310 W. Broadway [HINES HALL] Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Bartholomew 2042 Buechel Bank Road [MAGEL CENTER (GYM)] Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:00-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Bernadette 6500 St Bernadette Avenue [AT ST. MARY ACADEMY] Mar. 6, 13 • 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Bernard 7500 Tangelo Drive Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m., 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Edward 9608 Sue Helen Drive Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Elizabeth Ann Seton 11501 Maple Way Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:30-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Elizabeth of Hungary 1020 E. Burnett Avenue Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Francis of Assisi 1960 Bardstown Road Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:30-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Gabriel 5505 Bardstown Road Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m., 5:00-7:30 p.m.
18 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Good Shepherd 3511 Rudd Avenue [LEHMANN HALL] Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Guardian Angels 6000 Preston Highway
Feb. 14, 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Holy Family 3926 Poplar Level Road Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m., 4:30-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Holy Spirit 3345 Lexington Road Feb. 28, Mar. 13 • 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Holy Trinity 501 Cherrywood Road
Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20 • 5:30-8:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. James 1826 Edenside Avenue Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. John Paul II 3042 Hikes Lane Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:00 a.m.-1 p.m., 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Joseph 1406 E. Washington Street [TALITHA KOUM BLDG.] Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m.,5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Lawrence 1925 Lewiston Drive Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Margaret Mary 7813 Shelbyville Road
Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20 • 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Martin de Porres 3112 W. Broadway [THEA BOWMAN HALL] Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:00 a.m-6:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Martin of Tours 639 S. Shelby Street Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27 5:00-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Mary Queen of Peace 4005 Dixie Highway Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:30-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Michael 3705 Stone Lakes Drive Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Most Blessed Sacrament 1125 Hathaway Avenue Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3, 10 4:00-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Our Lady of Lourdes 508 Breckenridge Lane Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20 5:30-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Our Lady of Mt. Carmel 5505 New Cut Road Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Our Mother of Sorrows 760 Eastern Parkway Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Patrick 1000 N. Beckley Station Road Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Paul 6901 Dixie Highway Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:30-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Peter the Apostle 7724 Columbine Drive [AT ST. ANDREW ACADEMY GYM] Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Raphael 2141 Lancashire Avenue Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Rita 8709 Preston Highway Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m., 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Stephen Martyr 2931 Pindell Avenue Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Teresa of Calcutta 903 Fairdale Road Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 20, Apr. 3 4:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Thomas More 6105 S. Third Street Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3, 10 5:00-8:00 p.m.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––
OUTSIDE OF LOUISVILLE
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– All Saints 410 Main Cross, Taylorsville Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:00-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Aloysius 212 Mt. Mercy Drive, Pewee Valley Feb. 26 (Ash Wed.), 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Aloysius 197 S. Plum Street, Shepherdsville Feb. 21, 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Annunciation 105 Main Street, Shelbyville Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 5:00-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Benedict 227 Oak Street, Lebanon Junction Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:00 a.m.-8:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Bernard 5075 State Hwy 551, Liberty Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 11:00 a.m.-12:30 p.m., 5:00-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Christopher 1225 S. Wilson Road, Radcliff Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:00-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Dominic 2013 Bardstown Road, Springfield Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3, 10 4:30-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Francis Xavier 155 Stringer Lane, Mt. Washington Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:00-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Immaculate Conception 8191 New Haven Road, Culvertown Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13 • 3:00-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Immaculate Conception 502 N. Fifth Avenue, LaGrange [THE MARIAN CENTER] Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:30-7:30 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. John Rineyville 657 St. John Church Road, Rineyville Feb. 28, Mar. 13, 27 • 5:00-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Joseph 310 W. Stephen Foster Avenue, Bardstown Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27 4:30-7:00 p.m.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––– St. Martin of Tours 440 St. Martin Road, Flaherty Feb. 28, Mar. 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr. 3 4:00-7:00 p.m.
Fish Frys_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/20 11:31 PM Page 19
Cooking with Ron_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/20 11:39 PM Page 20
food | cooking with ron
BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP
I
remember from my childhood that Catholics were once required to abstain from eating meat on Fridays — thus creating a vibrant market for fish sticks in American high school
cafeterias. This dietary proscription is no longer in effect of course. But to some extent the tradition endures, and most Catholics continue to eat fish on Friday during Lent. On page 16
of this issue, F&D offers a guide to the myriad parish Lenten Fish Frys around the Louisville Archdiocese. Here, I’d like to consider two questions. First, how did this piscatorial calendrical tradition begin? And second, besides, frying it in oil, what are some other ways to cook fish?
Tracing the Tradition
The 40 days of Lent alludes to the 40 days of fasting and prayer that Jesus underwent in the desert. Until recent times, fish was regarded as poor peoples’ food, for anyone could, supposedly, fish for free in rivers or oceans. Thus, eating "poor people’s food" was regarded as an emulation of Jesus’s life of poverty. Nowadays, avoiding meat in favor of fish seems an odd way of emulating the humility and poverty of Jesus, what with commercial fish stocks declining and prices rising. Cod, sole, and farmed catfish, trout and salmon are still moderately priced, but wild-caught sea bass, cobia, haddock and orange roughy have become luxury items demanding premium pricing. However interesting the historical argument that equates “fasting” with eating fish, or the economic status of the contemporary fishing industry may 20 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
be, for today’s home cook the most important culinary question is: With all due respect to the socializing and fund-raising potential of parish Fish Frys, what can I do with fish beyond deep-frying it?
Frying is Fine, but not for All Fish
Frying fish in oil, usually coated in batter, breadcrumbs or cornmeal, is a universal method of cooking. Done correctly, using very fresh fish, hot clean oil and careful technique, fried fish can be tasty indeed. But frying is not the best cooking method for all fish, nor is eating lots of fried foods a notable component of a healthful diet. To add a bit of variety to the Lenten menu, let’s consider a few ways to prepare other fish than white-fleshed cod, in ways other than frying.
Three Alternatives for Lent: Tuna, Salmon, and Mussels
Tuna, for example, is a fish you don’t even have to cook to enjoy — if you buy it in a can or jar. And if you do buy fresh tuna, it can be prepared quite simply and quickly by sautéing, grilling, or broiling it with minimal oil. Many find it is best when seared on the outside with the interior left barely cooked. Of course, fresh tuna is delicious whether as sashimi or cooked well done. For a light meal, the classic Provençal dish salade niçoise (French pronunciation: [niˈswaz]) accommodates tuna as its focal point, whether canned or cooked in any manner. Salade niçoise is composed, not tossed, allowing for a range of creative arrangements of ingredients. It is as common a luncheon choice in southern France as chicken salad is in the southern United States. Served with a bowl of mussels as a starter, perhaps, and crusty bread to sop up the cooking juices, it makes a sophisticated, light Lenten supper. We picture below a salade niçoise made with high-quality canned tuna, but we also explain how to cook a fresh fillet if you prefer.
Cooking with Ron_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/20 11:40 PM Page 21
cooking with ron | food Salmon is another fish that does not take well to frying. Poaching is a good way to cook salmon, for you can easily judge the level of doneness as the poaching liquid burbles gently around it. Using coconut milk flavored with Asian herbs is an easy way to make salmon exotic. Shellfish are allowable as Lenten fare, and few seafood choices are as easy to prepare as mussels. Mussels are also a good choice because they are farmed sustainably in cold tidal waters, mostly around Prince Edward Island, Canada’s smallest province (reduced to the initials P.E.I. on restaurant menus). To prepare, you need only to rinse them well, check to see if any need beards trimmed (beards are the durable threads mussels exude to attach themselves to rocks), toss them into a pot with a few cups of liquid and steam for five minutes or so until the shells open.The steaming liquid is variable, ranging from white wine to beer to cider. The recipes here give a few specific suggestions about what to cook them in. The steaming liquid becomes a sauce to mop up with crusty bread, so choose as your tastes direct.
½ pound haricots verts or thin green beans, trimmed 1 head Boston lettuce, leaves separated 2 5-ounce cans tuna, drained ½ cup niçoise olives, halved and pitted (Kalamata olives will also work well)
Canned anchovies (optional) Cook potatoes until fork-tender, 8-10 minutes. Drain and transfer to a medium bowl; drizzle with ¼ cup vinaigrette and let cool. While potatoes are cooking, cut tomatoes and toss in a small bowl with salt and pepper and set aside. Blanch green beans in boiling water until crisptender and bright green, 3-5 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge into the ice water to cool; drain and pat dry. Divide lettuce among two plates. Arrange the potatoes, tomatoes, eggs, green beans and tuna on top. Drizzle with dressing and top with the olives and anchovies, if desired.
Using fresh tuna on salade niçoise For two servings, buy a 4 to 6 ounce tuna steak. Rub both sides with olive oil, season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat a sauté pan well. Add tuna and sear each side. Cook tuna to your taste — the salad will accommodate everything from barely cooked to medium (fish is still pink in the middle) to well done. Slice tuna and arrange on salad.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Thai salmon (Serves 4)
4 small salmon fillets or steaks, 4 to 6 ounces each Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons oil, divided 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 2 teaspoon ginger, finely grated 1 lemongrass stalk, peeled, finely grated
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Salade niçoise (Serves 2 — quantities can be easily multiplied) Like most salads, there is room for lots of variation with a niçoise salad. Start with a bed of lettuce. The kind of lettuce is a matter of personal taste (I like Boston or other butter crunch varieties here). Tuna is necessary, of course, and so are small black olives. Steamed green beans and new potatoes are usually called for, and hard-boiled eggs. This is most typically a summer salad, so ripe tomatoes are often included; out of season look for grape tomatoes or the small tomato medleys you can find at various markets (try Trader Joe’s). This recipe includes anchovies, but if that taste and texture is not your cup of tea, leave them out.
For the vinaigrette: ¼ cup white wine vinegar 1 small shallot, peeled and minced (about 2 tablespoons) 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme ¼ teaspoon pepper ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil Whisk all vinaigrette ingredients together in a small jar or bowl.
For the salad: 1 pound red-skinned potatoes sliced into bite-sized chunks 8 cherry tomatoes halved or quartered 4 large eggs boiled, peeled and quartered 21
Cooking with Ron_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/20 11:40 PM Page 22
food | cooking with ron 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 teaspoon chilli garlic paste (such as sambal oelek) 1 14-ounce can coconut milk 1 tablespoon fish sauce Zest and juice of 1 lime
For garnish: Finely chopped cilantro leaves, finely sliced red chillies or spears of chives Rice Steamed Asian greens (such as bok choy leaves) or chard Sprinkle both sides of salmon with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a non-stick pan or wellseasoned skillet over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, add salmon, skin side up, and sear for 2 minutes until golden. Turn salmon and cook the other side just for 1 minute, then remove onto a plate. The tuna should remain almost raw inside. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add garlic, ginger and lemongrass. Cook until garlic is light golden, about 1 minute. Add sugar and cook for 20 seconds until it becomes caramelized. Stir in chili paste. Add coconut milk and stir, scraping the bottom of the skillet to dissolve any bits stuck on the base into the sauce. Stir in fish sauce, increase heat to medium. Simmer for 2 minutes. Place salmon into the sauce, lower heat and simmer gently for 4 minutes, or until just cooked. (Carefully slice open salmon to check on degree of doneness.) Remove salmon, stir in lime zest and juice to taste. Adjust saltiness with more fish sauce if desired. Serve salmon over rice. Spoon over sauce, garnish with cilantro and chili if using.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Mussels three ways (Serves 2) All recipes here call for 2 pounds of mussels, which will serve 2. The recipe can be easily doubled or tripled. Serve with crusty bread and a green salad for a low-calorie meal.
Mussels steamed in cider: Use a dry hard cider for this, such as Angry Orchard. Do not use non-alcoholic sweet cider.
3 1 ¼ 2 1 1 1 2
medium garlic cloves, smashed teaspoon kosher salt cup finely chopped shallot tablespoons unsalted butter cup hard cider tablespoon country-style Dijon mustard teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded
22 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high. Add shallot and butter and cook a few minutes, stirring often, until shallots soften. Stir in cider, mustard, tarragon and salt; bring to a simmer. Add mussels; cover and simmer until mussels open, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove and discard any mussels that do not open. Ladle cooking liquid over mussels in serving bowl. Serve hot with bread.
Mussels in white wine cream sauce: 1 tablespoon butter 1 small leek, halved, thinly sliced (white and pale green parts only) 2 pounds mussels, scrubbed, debearded 1 cup dry white wine ½ cup whipping cream 4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley Melt butter in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Add leek and sauté for 3 minutes. Add wine and mussels. Cover and simmer until mussels open, about 4 minutes (discard any that do not open). Using a slotted spoon, transfer mussels to 2 bowls. Stir cream and 2 tablespoons parsley into liquid in pot. Simmer uncovered 3 minutes. Season sauce with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over mussels.
Mussels steamed in beer: All beers will work fine, from light lagers to stouts. Keep in mind that the choice of beer will influence the flavor of the cooking sauce.
2 6 1 2 ½ 1 2 1 10 1 1
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped teaspoon red pepper flakes tablespoons salted butter bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves and stems chopped teaspoon sea salt pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded 12-ounce bottle of favorite beer basil leaves, torn teaspoon dried oregano lemon, juiced
In a large pot over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until the garlic just begins to brown at the edges, 2 minutes or so. Add the butter, parsley and salt and heat until the butter melts. Add the beer, and when it begins to boil, lower heat to simmer, add mussels and cover. Steam 3 to 5 minutes. Discard any mussels that don’t open. Scatter on the basil and oregano, if desired, and add the lemon juice. Serve mussels with cooking liquid. F&D
Cooking with Ron_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 3/1/20 11:40 PM Page 23
cooking with ron | food
wwwfoodanddine.com Spring 2020 23
SOU!_Spring20_Ed-3rd ad ending-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 11:31 AM Page 24
profile | sou! southern kitchen
A
BY ROGER BAYLOR PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
smiling Chef James Moran asked, “So…. How can we make our steak frites original?” We were seated at SOU! (“so you”), his new restaurant on Linn Station Road in the East End, and Moran was talking about his approach to reinventing a classic bistro dish: the 8-oz hanger steak. “We went Korean on them. I didn’t think people would take to the Korean flavor profile, but now it’s our top seller.” And the frites? “For the umami fries I take shaved bonito tuna, nori, mustard seeds, tons of dry spices. We toast them, blend it up and get a spicy, kind of fishy, crazy seasoning. It’s like upscale hot fries.” Moran’s hanger steak frites is accented with a beef fat aioli boasting expressive gochujang (a Korean chili paste that is rapidly becoming a staple condiment in restaurants and home kitchens around the country), and pineapple brown sugar tamari. Moran garnishes the dish with pickled carrots, watermelon radishes, cilantro, basil, fresh lime, olive oil and sea salt. “Let those beautiful herbs and ingredients speak for themselves,” he says. “That citrus salad’s going to cut through all the spice, all that brown sugar, and balance out the dish.” This, in a nutshell, is James Moran’s toolbox.
24 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
SOU! Southern Kitchen & Bar 9980 Linn Station Rd.
502.614.6499 sou-louisville.com
SOU!_Spring20_Ed-3rd ad ending-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 11:31 AM Page 25
sou! southern kitchen | profile
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 25
SOU!_Spring20_Ed-3rd ad ending-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 11:31 AM Page 26
profile | SOU! southern kitchen
A Hands-On Partnership
SOU! opened last November in Plainview, serving a menu variously described by diners as New American, Southern and Korean-influenced, although as culinary orchestrator, Moran gets the last word. “At the end of the day, it's food cooked with love. When you think SOU!, just think food cooked with soul. It’s food for your soul.” Moran shares SOU!’s soul with business partner Ashley Sayler, with whom he worked at Sullivan University. “James was the executive chef and I was director of sales,” said Sayler. “We worked really well together. I asked him one day, ‘what do you want to do?’ He said, ‘I want to own a restaurant’ and I said ‘let's make it happen.’ Fast forward two years, and here we are at SOU.” Start-ups need capital, and the partners found their shared dream also required elbow grease, learning curves and sheer willpower. “We did it on our own,” observed Sayler. “No investors and a lot of uncomfortable learning.” “There was a long time when I thought, when do I get my chance?” added Moran. “Then we connected. The investors finally started coming, but we said no, we're going to do it ourselves.” “Now her house is on the line, my house is on the line. I have a four year old, she has a new baby coming. We stepped out of our comfort zone, and now we’re standing on our own two feet.” “We do everything hands-on,” Sayler added. “I handle all 30, 40 of our vendors and all business avenues. James also does the ordering. He mops the floors at night!” “Everything from deck brushing to spray cleaning, the bathrooms, we do it,” concluded Moran. “There's a certain level of pride. I'm proud of her. I'm proud of myself for stepping out on that limb.”
A Chef’s Chef Comes Into His Own
Co-Owners Ashley Sayler and Chef James Moran (right)
26
Moran’s culinary identity is dualistic. He possesses a poised rationality and self-confidence borne of lengthy experience in top area kitchens like Sake Blue Japanese Bistro, 8UP Elevated Drinkery & Kitchen and the Pine Room (among others). And he has three times appeared in the kitchen at the James Beard House. But if his cookery seems rational and analytical, it also expresses an emotional context: when he talks about his food, he’s as likely to use words like “heart,” “soul,” and “love” as about techniques. Louisville’s kitchen collective obviously gets Moran, who might well be the city’s consummate “chef ’s chef,” earning seemingly universal endorsements. In the preface to his former boss Anthony Lamas’s book Southern Heat, the Seviche founder praised Moran as his “right-hand man” and “Asian brother.” Ian Hall, operator of The Exchange and Brooklyn and The Butcher, hired Moran as consulting chef for Longboard’s Taco & Tiki (since closed). “He is the most polished and professional chef I have had the opportunity to work with over my 25 year career in the restaurant industry,” Hall wrote via e-mail. “He knows 100% what he wants to achieve, but his biggest strength is humbleness as a chef, and his willingness to teach and develop young
SOU!_Spring20_Ed-3rd ad ending-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 11:32 AM Page 27
sou! southern kitchen | profile cooks. A true mentor.” Moran has kept self-promotion at arm’s length, flying just beneath the radar during his two decades in the restaurant business. SOU! aims to change that. It’s the culmination of a thoughtfully planned journey by a chef whose perspective is expansive.
From Korean to Cajun to College
SOU!’s story begins in Seoul, birthplace of Moran’s late mother. “I was raised in 100% Korean culture, and I lost my father when I was two years old,” Moran said. “The OCD, the military, the cleanliness, the organization — everything that Korean culture pounded in my brain, I took it and applied it to food. Attention to detail? I just added it to my repertoire.” After a job as a Logan’s Roadhouse meat cutter, Moran began serving at Micki’s on Main, a fine dining/Cajun/Creoleaccented restaurant in Bowling Green, Kentucky, where he was attending Western Kentucky University. He’d have preferred cooking, but the servers made better money. One Friday evening the sous chef and grill cook both walked out. “I hopped back there and started cooking,” remembers Moran, “and the owner said, ‘Why aren't you in the kitchen since day one?’ Well … because only nine or ten dollars an hour.” Immediately Moran inherited the sous chef ’s job, and subsequently replaced the head chef. Keenly focused even then, he knew it was only a beginning: “I wasn't a chef. They would call me ‘chef,’ and I would correct them, and say no, I'm just the kitchen manager. I hadn’t earned that title ‘chef ’ yet.” Moran was sent to New Orleans to learn about roux, stocks and soup (“soaking in what Cajun Creole was all about”), and his shrimp & grits appetizer at SOU! is a throwback to those early days. “We do it Cajun style with seared Andouille sausage, blackened shrimp, tons of aromatics, oregano, garlic, cumin, coriander, cayenne smoked chipote – really aggressive, with local Weisenberger grits and a kind of chili chow chow with pearl onions, pickled mustard seeds, pickled corn, pickled fresno chiles. They cut through that richness and round out that dish. We finish with crispy leeks for texture.” Eventually Moran moved back to Louisville to begin his “earning” process with a culinary degree at Sullivan University. While there, a career epiphany struck him. According to Sayler, “he still talks about it all the time.” “I tell my young cooks that you're going to have the epiphany, whether it be sooner or later, and when it happens, it’s such a beautiful thing.” In 2011, Moran’s last class at Sullivan was Advanced Techniques, taught by Chef Instructor David Moeller. “He (Moeller) would ride me, and I thought he had a chip on his shoulder, that he didn’t like straight-A students on the (top) Shrimp and grits with Andouille sausage and crispy leeks. (center) Chicken and waffle with a butternut squash puree. (right) Hanger steak with beef fat gochujang aioli and umami frites. (far right) Mixed green salad with goat cheese and waffle croutons. 27
SOU!_Spring20_Ed-3rd ad ending-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 11:32 AM Page 28
dean’s list. But what he was doing was humbling me.” “I remember thinking to myself, ‘you don't know everything, and if you did, you wouldn't have paid this much money for an education.You need to humble yourself and remember why you took this journey.’ Everything started to click, and I knew that this is what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.” Moeller remembers, too, sharing his thoughts in an e-mail. “(Moran’s) gifts go far beyond culinary skill. James has always been one of the most professional and positive people I have ever known. In addition, he tends to bring the best out of those around him. Although I was his instructor, I was inspired by James to be the best Chef Instructor I could be."
The Soul of SOU!
Soul cannot be seen, touched or calculated. Soul is intangible, the non-physical essence of the individual. It encompasses feeling, energy, desires, affections and appetites. For Moran, soul has a practical application to cooking in the form of umami – or in Japanese, “deliciousness.” “Umami is a flavor profile,” Moran explained. “You’ve got sweet, salty, acidic, bitter and umami. But the best way I can describe umami as a flavor profile is … soulful. I was exposed to umami at an early age. Korean cuisine is nothing but umami, so I fell in love with those deep, earthy flavors.” SOU!’s two best-selling appetizers are crispy Brussels sprouts and crispy cauliflower. Both reflect Moran’s fluency in Asian traditions, as paired with vegetables from closer to home. Moran said his sprouts embody “southern meets Japan,” combining earthy black garlic and nori for an umami vinaigrette bomb, then adding charred herb aioli, cilantro, scallions and puffed togarashi (a chili-laden Japanese spice blend). “Our aioli isn’t just mayonnaise mixed with flavor ingredients. We actually do an emulsified sauce with egg yolks and fat, whether it be beef fat, pork fat, oil or garlic oil. Everything is made in house.” Moran’s crispy cauliflower is “Chinese meets southern,” with “a homemade hoisin glaze made with local sorghum, a sesame peanut crunch and pickled Fresno chilis.” SOU! needed bricks and mortar, and the building chosen by Moran and Sayler, long dormant and accordingly affordable, once housed a Skyline Chili franchise. A tonguein-cheek SOU! house cocktail called the Three Way pays homage. The building’s configuration as a restaurant made financial sense, but why put down roots in the East End, which tends to be overlooked when it comes to independent restaurants?
(top) Crispy Brussels sprouts with a charred herb aioli. (center) Crispy cauliflower with a sorghumpeanut sauce and Fresno peppers. (left) Pork chop with savoy cabbage and apples. (opposite page) Verlasso salmon with a coconut milk habanero curry sauce and a yuzu crème fraiche.
SOU!_Spring20_Ed-3rd ad ending-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 11:32 AM Page 29
“There's a lot of potential and a good demographic here,” said Sayler, observing that while the Hurstbourne Parkway corridor remains populated primarily by chain eateries, indies like Brownie’s The Shed thrive close by. Added Moran, “we want to be a part of revitalizing the area and creating a buzz (with) a chef-driven concept.” Emerging after a comprehensive and sensible repurposing, SOU! offers comfortable, uncluttered dining space. The bar is a u-shaped island in the middle, with a long, inviting row of upholstered banquettes beneath large northwest facing windows. In one corner, two rows of four-tops are arranged as community tables, suitable for parties and overflow seating.
Kitchen Matters
The kitchen at SOU! is completely open to view. Diners can sit at a counter (the “Chef's Table”) and see directly into the eatery’s nerve center. “You don't get any closer to the action than right there,” beamed Moran. “They get to smell it, see it, hear it. I get to interact with the guests. They see that we’re not chewing gum, we clean our kitchen, our cell phones aren’t out. They see we take a certain level of pride and professionalism in what we do. Our chef coats are ironed. We don’t look like slobs. It's a level of professionalism that we're going to carry.” Diners also see quality control passing straight though Moran. “I touch every dish that comes out. I finish every dish, I season every dish and put the finishing touches on it. My chefs can focus on cooking the proteins, making sure the temperatures are perfect, the modifications, everything else. But every plate that comes out, I touch.” “Five things you'll always see on any one of my dishes,” he continued, “are texture, acid,
balance, presentation and flavor. They help me create and not overthink. As a young chef, you want to put more, (but) another epiphany was when I broke down food and understood that less is more.” As an example, SOU!’s pork chop: “It’s as southern as you can get,” offered Moran, citing sorghum in the mustard glaze and sorghum berries puffed “like little popcorn.” An untraditional Hoppin’ John accompanies the pork chop: savoy chard, savoy cabbage, bacon lardon and black eyed peas. Moran’s chicken and waffle entrée begins with a pan-seared airline chicken breast and bourbon maple glaze, plus smoked butternut squash puree. “There’s a hash with Brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes, toasted almonds, and currants, topped with crispy leeks. The waffle is an ancho-chipotle scallion waffle made in house. It’s sweet, spicy and salty; smoky from the squash puree, beautiful colors, tons of texture.” SOU!’s Verlasso salmon is innovative, with Moran conjuring a coconut milk habanero curry sauce with crème fraiche made from yuzu, a Japanese citrus. The side is a hearty vegetable quinoa: zucchini, edamame, spinach and onions. Our interview was ending, and Moran was off to prepare for the evening service. I asked Sayler if it’s ever too soon to be planning a restaurant’s future. “That’s where I come in,” she replied. “I’m the planning side.” Some of the plans being pursued are for interior décor finishes, weekend brunch, an outdoor patio, warm-weather events, and charitable outreach projects. Was there anything else? I feared that all the food chat with Moran had unfairly excluded Sayler. “That’s okay,” she said. “I told him to do the talking.” F&D
sou! southern kitchen | profile
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 29
Easy Entertaining_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 1:05 AM Page 30
food | easy entertaining
EASY entertaining Fish BY TIM & LORI LAIRD PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
We love to prepare and eat fish. And we’re fortunate that, thanks to UPS, Louisville chefs and home cooks have great access to fresh fish from all three coasts. 30 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
Cheers &
Some people are intimidated by the prospect of cooking fish, which is a shame since seafood offers a variety of tastes and textures and can be deliciously prepared by grilling, baking, blackening, boiling, frying, and pan searing. So we invited three local chefs — all of whom are noted for their seafood skills — to drop by and show us some new ideas. John Varanese (Varanese, River House, The Levee, Savor), Adam Burress (Ostra, Hammerheads, Game, Migos), and Ken Barkley (Captain’s Quarters Riverside Grille) accepted our invitation and gave us some great tips. We hope you find them useful as well!
Easy Entertaining_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 1:05 AM Page 31
easy entertaining | food
Quality Counts
First and foremost, a great fish dish starts with great fish. So you need to find a fishmonger with a fresh, high-quality selection. There are several excellent fish purveyors in the area, but Gary and Michael Hirsch at Highland Fish Market in Middletown are our goto guys, with a quick-turning inventory that ensures fresh selections. The Hirsches and Chef John Varanese gave us some guidelines for choosing fresh fish: • The Hirsches emphasize trusting your nose. The only aromas fresh fish give off should remind you of the sea. If the fish smells “fishy,” or emits a chemical off-odor, it is past its prime. • Chef Varanese offered advice on whole fish: Get up close and personal and look deep into the fish’s eyes. A fresh fish, recently caught and properly shipped, will have clear, bright eyes.The longer a fish sits in a display case, the cloudier the eyes become. • Keep your fish purchases chilled until ready to cook. We pack a cooler bag with ice to keep our purchase cold on the way home; this is especially important if your shopping requires other stops. • Do not overcook fish, especially not delicate white-fleshed fish like cod, flounder or snapper which can quickly become too dry. Be vigilant once your fish is on the heat. Our three guests explained how and why they developed their recipes. John Varanese said he was thinking of something with fresh, spring flavors that might inspire an early start to the grilling season. Wrapping the fish in a banana leaf concentrates and intensifies the flavors and aromas of the herbs and spices. Banana leaves, which Varanese said add tea-like flavors, are available in Asian groceries, as are green papayas, which are a bit different from under-ripe papayas (though the latter can be used for the slaw as well). “The papaya-
and-mango slaw adds fresh acid and tropical notes, providing a panAsian palate for the dish,” Varanese explained. “We’ve been getting a lot of requests for keto-style entrées at Captain’s Quarters,” Ken Barkley said. “So I decided to play around a bit.” Keto is a low-carb, high-fat diet that some people find useful in losing weight. Barkley’s goal for his offering was to find ways to keep flavor and zest without carbs. The popularity of shrimp and grits lent itself to a little experimentation with a finely-riced cauliflower base instead of grits. And Barkley’s zesty, lemony, buttery New Orleans barbecue sauce adds a distinctive accent. “This is a good dish for dinner parties for people who are on a keto diet, with no flavor sacrifices from people who aren’t keeping to keto,” he said. Several of Adam Burress's restaurants use custom smokers that he got from a Texas barbecue supplier. For the smoked salmon tacos, you could just buy smoked salmon, but Burress says, “Smoking your own is always better. Use any smoker as long as the temperature doesn’t get above 200 degrees. Smoking too hot can dry out fish fast so stay under 200 degrees for 15-20 minutes and your fish will be great.” We love to serve our Beet and Strawberry Salad, its light and bright flavors are a wonderful addition to most seafood dishes. The colors are visually appealing and the sweet and earthy flavors compliment a variety of fish and preparations. For a Southern seafood side we love our Succotash. The word comes from the Narragansett Indian word for broken kernels. You can follow our recipe or use any combination of beans and corn, but our favorite succotash happens when it's butter bean season, a Southerner's way of saying it's time for tender baby limas. The subtle flavors pair wonderfully with flakey fish, firmer fish and also shellfish.
Smoked Salmon Taco with Asian Slaw and Cayenne Apple Butter
31
Easy Entertaining_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 1:05 AM Page 32
food | easy entertaining –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Adam Burress •
Ostra, Game, Migo, Hammerheads –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
For the cayenne apple butter: 3 cups apple butter ½ cup Sriracha sauce 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce Salt Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Salt to taste.
Add ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisk until a smooth, even texture. Form the dough into small balls and flatten using a tortilla press. Cook in a small frying pan over medium heat.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
John Varanese •
Varanese, River House, Levee, Savor –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
For the ginger sesame slaw:
Smoked Salmon Taco with Asian Slaw and Cayenne Apple Butter (Serves 6-8)
Dress a 2-pound salmon fillet with your favorite seasoning and give it a slow temperature smoke, between 175 and 200 degrees, until fork tender and then plate. Flake off meat as desired when building individual tacos.
Grilled Whole Florida Snapper with green Papaya-Mango Slaw
32
3 2 ¾ ⅓ ½ 3 2 2 ¼
cloves garlic, minced tablespoons fresh ginger, minced cup olive oil cup rice vinegar cup soy sauce tablespoons honey tablespoons sesame oil tablespoons Sriracha cup chopped cilantro
Combine all ingredients in a bowl and toss.
Flour Tortilla: 4 2 2 1½
cups flour teaspoons baking powder tablespoons lard cups hot water Salt
Grilled Whole Florida Snapper with Green Papaya-Mango Slaw (Serves 2)
For the snapper:
¼ cup olive oil 1 large banana leaf
Easy Entertaining_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 4:26 AM Page 33
easy entertaining | food ¼ pound fingerling potatoes, sliced into thin rounds ¼ red onion, peeled and julienned 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 Snapper, approximately 1½ pounds 2 limes, cut into half-moon slices 2 ounces ginger, sliced ½ cup scallions, cut into ½-pieces 1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper Preheat grill to 400°F. Place the banana leaf on a cutting board fully opened. Toss the potatoes with half of the red onion, olive oil and salt and pepper. Pile the mixture in the center of the banana leaf. Make 3 slices on a bias on each side of the fish, angled toward the head. Place a half-moon slice of lime and ginger in each cut. Place cut scallions and butter inside the fish belly. Salt and pepper both sides of the fish. Place fish on top of potato mixture and fold the banana leaf around the fish like an eggroll to seal in all the ingredients. Set on grill potatoside down. Grill for 10 minutes on each side until the fish is cooked through.
For the papaya-mango slaw: 1 mango, peeled and julienned
1 green papaya, peeled and julienned ¼ red onion, peeled and julienned 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced ½ teaspoon minced ginger 1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped ½ teaspoon honey 1 lime, juiced Salt and pepper Combine all ingredients in a bowl and toss with the juice of one lime. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve on top of fish.
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Ken Barkley •
Captain’s Quarters Riverside Grille –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Keto New Orleans Shrimp & Grits (Serves 8)
For the keto smoked Gouda cauliflower grits: If you’re ricing the cauliflower yourself, Chef Barkley recommends using a food processor with a cheese grater attachment. In the absence of a processor, manually grating does just fine.
6 1 1 ¼ ¼ 2½ 1 1 2
cups cauliflower, riced teaspoon chopped garlic tablespoon olive oil cup white wine cup vegetable broth cups smoked Gouda, shredded teaspoon onion powder teaspoon garlic powder dashes Tabasco sauce Salt and pepper
Sauté cauliflower and garlic in oil over medium heat for 2-3 minutes, taking care not to brown the garlic. Add wine and cook for an additional 2-3 minutes. Add broth and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Then add the cheese, garlic powder, onion powder and Tabasco and combine
Keto New Orleans Shrimp & Grits
33
Easy Entertaining_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 1:06 AM Page 34
food | easy entertaining until cheese melts. If the grits are too thick, add more vegetable broth. Salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
For the shrimp: 3 pounds Gulf Shrimp 16-20 count, peeled and deveined, tail on 1 cup heavy cream 1 cup New Orleans Barbecue Sauce (see recipe below or use your favorite commercial sauce) Briefly sear shrimp in a pan over medium-high heat, taking care to leave them in a single layer for even cooking. Add heavy cream and barbecue sauce, stir until they are coated. Reduce heat to medium-low to avoid scorching the cream. Cook for 3 minutes or so, until shrimp are just cooked through.
For the arugula: 4 ounces baby arugula 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tablespoon olive oil Salt and pepper Sauté baby arugula in a pan with olive oil and garlic until arugula becomes limp. Salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
For the New Orleans shrimp barbecue sauce: (Makes 3 cups. Extra sauce will keep, covered, up to two weeks. Or freeze for up to 6 months.)
1 ¼ ½ ½ 5 8 ¼
2 1 1 ½
cup butter cup olive oil cup chili sauce cup Worcestershire sauce lemons, sliced garlic cloves, peeled and chopped cup Creole seasoning (such as Zatarain’s or seasoning blends by Emeril Lagassse or Paul Prudhomme) tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped tablespoon paprika tablespoon dried oregano teaspoon cayenne
Combine all ingredients in a pot and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove lemon slices and set aside.
Assembly: Place cauliflower grits in the center of the plate. Lay a bed of the arugula around the grits. Arrange 6 shrimp on top of the arugula. Sprinkle bias-cut green onions around the plate (optional) and drizzle with New Orleans Barbecue Sauce. 34 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
Beet and Strawberry Salad with Arugula and Poppy Seed Dressing
Butter Bean Succotash –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Tim & Lori Laird •
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Recipes reprinted with permission from The Bourbon Country Cookbook by David Danielson and Tim Laird, Agate Surrey, 2018.
Butter Bean Succotash (Serves 6)
3 tablespoons canola oil 2 cups fresh corn kernels (4 ears), or use frozen corn 1 medium green zucchini, diced 1 yellow bell pepper, diced 1 small red onion, peeled and diced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 2 cups shelled and blanched butter beans or lima beans 1 large red tomato, seeded and diced ½ cup fresh basil, finely sliced Salt and pepper, to taste In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. Add the corn, zucchini, yellow pepper and onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are bright in color and start to soften, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and beans and continue cooking for 2 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, transfer the vegetable mixture to a bowl and refrigerate until cool, about 30 minutes. Before serving add the tomato, basil and salt and pepper to taste. Serve at room temperature.
4 cups strawberries, hulled and quartered 6 ounces baby arugula 3 ounces goat cheese, crumbled Olive oil, for drizzling Poppy Seed Dressing (recipe follows) Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the red beets on a 12-inch piece of aluminum foil, drizzle with the olive oil and wrap into a tight packet. Repeat with the yellow beets to make two big packets. Place the packets directly on the middle rack of the oven and bake for 1 hour, or until the beets are soft when pierced with a knife. Remove from the oven and set aside until the beets are cool enough to touch. Remove and discard the skins and cut the beets into 1-inch cubes. In a large bowl, combine the beets, strawberries, and arugula and drizzle with the desired amount of dressing. Toss to coat and place on a serving platter or in a glass bowl. Top with the crumbled goat cheese and serve at room temperature.
For the poppy seed dressing: 1 2 ⅓ ⅓ 1
cup sliced strawberries tablespoons sugar cup apple cider vinegar cup extra virgin olive oil tablespoon poppy seeds Salt and pepper
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Beet and Strawberry Salad with Arugula and Poppy Seed Dressing (Serves 6)
3 medium red beets 3 medium yellow beets
In a blender, combine the strawberries, sugar, and vinegar. Blend on low, and then, with the machine running, slowly add the oil until all of the oil is incorporated. Pour the dressing into a bowl, stir in the poppy seeds, taste, and add salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to one week. F&D
Easy Entertaining_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 1:06 AM Page 35
easy entertaining | food
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 35
Paella_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 4:28 AM Page 36
food | paella
World-Class
Paella
The lights are low in the back dining room at Caffe Classico. In one corner a guitarist fingerpicks mellow tunes on a classical guitar. Outside, Frankfort Avenue is bustling, as always, with foot and road traffic. But as people
Made with a Surgeon’s Touch
start to gather in this room, you watch them
BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
Partly that’s because of the lighting and the
instantly go calm as they enter the room. room’s ambiance. Partly it’s because of the music. But mostly it’s because of the aromas of saffron and smoked paprika rising from a wide, sprawling paella pan tended by the calm, cheerful Gustavo Pérez-Abadia.
y day, Pérez-Abadía, an M.D., serves on the faculty in the Department of Orthopedic Surgery at the University of Louisville. His teaching and research focuses on one of the most exacting and disciplined areas in all of medicine: microsurgical procedures used for hand and facial transplants. It’s a field that traces its history back to the pioneering Louisville hand surgeons Harold Kleinert and Joseph E. Kutz. But when he’s not absorbed in the high-tech world of advanced microscopes and imaging, and incredibly precise instruments, Pérez-Abadía steps into a more traditional realm. He enters the flamboyant world of paella. It’s one of the world’s most fascinating culinary legacies, with a heritage so rich that UNESCO is on track to honor paella by declaring it an Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Paella originated in 10th century Spain, when the Moors ruled the country. The Moors introduced rice and saffron, the two main ingredients in paella, to the Iberian Peninsula. Legend has it that the dish was created by royal servants looking to reuse leftovers. The name comes from the pan they used to cook it, a rounded pot that resembles a shallow wok with a flat, dimpled bottom. There are numerous recipes for paella, although most of them involve seafood and chicken. Pérez-Abadía never made paella when he was growing up in Argentina, but now he makes at least 20 paellas a year. Most of them are cooked at Caffe Classico on Frankfort Avenue, which has hosted a monthly paella night for the last two years. But Pérez-Abadía also cooks at community fund-raisers and in paella cook-offs around the
B
Caffe Classico Gustavo Pérez-Abadia (left) and Caffe Classico owner Tommy Mudd 36 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
2144 Frankfort Avenue
502.895.0076 www.caffe-classico.com
Paella_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 1:51 AM Page 37
paella | food country and internationally (he has a string of awards) and has cooked at paella events in Spain, and now shares his paella with others, via his catering service, Paella at Home. Pérez-Abadía’s first forays into cookery were borne of necessity. After leaving his home in Salta (northern Argentina) for his university studies, he shared an apartment with roommates who didn’t care to cook. Pérez-Abadía took it up, and it soon became a passion. Marriage, a medical degree, a residency, and a fellowship in pediatric surgery and urology followed, and then Pérez-Abadía started conducting research in plastic surgery. Then a friend mentioned that there was a research appointment available in Kentucky. The only things he knew about Kentucky, Pérez-Abadía recalled, were Kentucky Fried Chicken and the Kentucky Derby. But that was enough. “Yes,” he said. “We’ll go.” Through work connections, and the South American expatriate community in Louisville, Pérez-Abadía met a Colombian family who introduced him to the art of paella. That first paella triggered a new research quest for recipes and authentic ingredients – rice imported from Spain, sweet smoked paprika, saffron, Spanish chorizo. And then he started experimenting with tech-
niques and processes. In Spain, says Pérez-Abadía, the tradition is to start a paella with water rather than stock, and let the chicken in the paella build the flavor. He started enhancing his paellas with chicken and seafood broths. And, he says with a grin, “I do some other things differently too. But those are still my secrets.” It wasn’t long before friends started asking to make paella for gatherings. Among those friends was Claudia Mudd, the Argentinian-born wife of Caffe Classico owner Tommy Mudd, where PérezAbadía’s daughter Gaby worked. “I was impressed,” Mudd remembered. “Getting paella is a real trick When it’s perfect, the rice at the bottom will be crunchy but not burnt. It’s a delicate balance. Gustavo just has the touch.” It took a while for Pérez-Abadía to persuade Claudia and Tommy to let him share his paella to the restaurant. But it fits perfectly alongside Caffe Classico’s eclectic menu, with its French, German, Italian, and Spanish notes. Mudd’s goal is to create an Old World atmosphere where a person can sit down and have a cup of coffee with no hurry, no TV and no Wi-Fi. “Americans don't really want to ‘waste’ hours,” says Mudd. “But Europeans take life pretty slow. A lot of people that come here for the paella enjoy that pace. They don’t mind the time it takes because they appreciate the quality of what
Gustavo does. It’s a night of music and food and it’s a way to exchange cultures.” On paella nights, Pérez-Abadía cooks in the dining room so guests can watch, listen and smell the process. In a 36-inch shallow pan he sautés garlic and shallots in olive oil, then gradually adds vegetables, shellfish, rice, saffron, and paprika. From prep through completion can take a couple of hours as people gather, sip wine, snack on tapas, and listen to music or watch performances by dancers from the Academy of Flamenco Arts. In addition to the monthly paella gatherings, PérezAbadía sometimes brings his paella for special events or holidays like Valentine’s Day. Pérez-Abadía is constantly working on making his paella recipe better. He has even visited Spain to do research (and to cook and eat). “I was in Barcelona a couple of times and I tried paella. And of course they're good. But sometimes the flavor I can get here, I don't know why, but they don't do over there. There is a couple, friends of Tommy’s, who are from Spain.They asked me to cook paella for their 50th anniversary. They just tried one spoonful of my paella to see how it was and now they want me to cook for their anniversary. That’s when I think it might be very good.” F&D *Check Caffe Classico’s website (caffe-classico.com) for dates and prices. Seating is limited.
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 37
Logan Street Market_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 4:29 AM Page 38
profile | logan street market
BY MARTY ROSEN PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
Louisville’s Food Scene Takes A
Logan Street Market The Sistine Chapel is the most amazing thing I’ve ever seen. It’s something I’ll never forget. Right up there with it is a battered, gently-fried squash blossom I encountered a couple of days later. It was part of a fritto misto served in a grease-stained cone of brown paper at a hillside farm market in Tuscany, by a woman who was cooking that morning in a fryer on the back of a trailer. 38 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
E
very year, magazines and newspapers fill miles of column space with advice on how to become a “traveler” instead of a “tourist.” Some of the advice is obvious, some impossible (unless you have the time to spend months living in one place). But there’s a simple strategy. Do all the touristy stuff; hit the museums, landmarks, and great restaurants. But also build in some time for market visits. Seek out places where people literally stand behind the things they’ve raised, and where cooks are connected to farmers. Even a small market is a living community where you can see people with diverse skills and interests banding together around the very stuff of life. In these kinds of markets, buying and selling isn’t just transactional, it’s also relational — and buying a carrot or a wedge of cheese is a meaningful exchange. Louisville has some great farmers’ markets. But the Logan Street Market brings something new to the city. An enclosed, year-round market that houses both vendors and restaurateurs, and caters not just to shoppers, but to diners and drinkers.
Logan Street Market_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 2:00 AM Page 39
logan street market | profile
The food court inside Logan Street Market.
Another Step Forward ➾ Last October, Logan Street Market’s “soft” opening was about as fun and chaotic a thing as I’ve ever seen in a commercial space. It was hard to find a parking spot within blocks of the intersection of Logan and East Kentucky. Inside the market, vendors and restaurateurs were vastly outnumbered. But they were valiantly doing their best, and customers seemed to take it all in stride. Back then it was hard for a visitor to project how Logan Street would evolve. From a purely functional standpoint, looking at the physical layout of the Market House and Farmers’ Plaza, an observer might reasonably have expected it to develop into a mid-city replica of a mall or airport food court. But that’s not what happened. Over the last several months the folks who populate the old Axton Candy and Tobacco Warehouse have grown into a mutually supportive community and created a social and commercial hub that gives consumers convenient access to local pro-
ducers, expertly curated specialty foods, and the creative work of chefs and entrepreneurs. These days, while walking around Logan Street, I see the same palpable sense of neighborly commitment and shared purpose I see in area farmers’ markets. Chat up folks at any of the Logan Street businesses, and you soon find it is nearly impossible to tell the owners, shopkeepers, and chefs from the employees and clerks because everybody in the building conveys the same proud sense of ownership. People are proud not just of their own wares and food, but are eager to tell you about the dishes they ate last week from someone else’s kitchen. Cooks happily talk of materials they bought from the retail booths, and the retailers are proud that their wares are showing up on customers’ plates.
A Logan Street Walkabout
It took me a while to realize I could dash into Logan Street Market to grab grocery items on
the quick. But it’s getting to be a habit — a bad habit, perhaps, since I tend to get distracted around food… If you’re disciplined, you can start and end your visit at The Bodega, which is prominently located near the entrance. During the growing season, The Bodega sells locally-raised farm market offerings (you’ll be able to take them home, or enjoy the way the market’s restaurants employ them). But even in mid-winter, The Bodega’s produce section looks like a perfectly curated jewelry counter, stocked with jade green Brussels sprouts, bright peppers, fresh ginger, gorgeous lettuces, and cabbages, as well as a comprehensive selection of the grocery items a home cook would look for in a fine, big city bodega — canned veggies, olive oils, refrigerated goods, etc. Likewise, without getting far from the entrance you can grab a bubble tea and cold brew teas in exotic flavor combinations at Boba Fete; taste an assortment of honey (and buy honey-related merchandise) at Bee Kind; and experience an exemplary bowl of Louisville-style chili at Billy’s Chili. And if you want to pamper your canine companion, you should definitely stop at The Barkery for cooler than average pet treats. There are plenty of other shops in the building selling books, African arts and crafts, boutique gifts, soaps, and the like. Don’t fail to walk upstairs (where there is also a demonstration kitchen). But our focus here at F&D is on food and dining, so we’ll leave you to your own exploration. As you head further in the building (edging north), you’ll find the spacious Safai Coffee, where you’ll find caffeine in all its glorious
1001 Logan Street
502.219.3110 loganstmarket.com manifestations.You may also notice here a sign of Logan Street Market’s focus on sustainability — the stir sticks are spaghetti noodles. There is no single-use plastic in this building. In fact, all plates, utensils, etc., are required to www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 39
Logan Street Market_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 4:31 AM Page 40
profile | logan street market
Leo Braddock restocking wines at Breeze Wine Bar.
comply with rigorous sustainability standards. The program emphasizes composting and green energy initiatives, and offers car charging stations. Across from the coffee shop, there’s a great family-owned ice cream shop called Crème de Lou, of which I have just one thing to say — Milkshake. If rather than ice cream and coffee you’re seeking adult beverages, you’ll easily spot two places that have emerged as very popular evening hangs — the comfortable Wild Hops and casual (but very well stocked) The Breeze Wine Bar & Spirits. Both of these offer exactly what their names imply — as well as a busy schedule of events (live music, deejays, trivia competitions, and even salsa dancing). If you want to sip a Negroni or a glass of Petite Syrah while playing arcade games, feel free to take your drink to the nice selection of games a few steps away on the back wall. And if you prefer just to dine, drink, and chat, the great thing about Logan Street Market is that there are no borders. You and your party can opportunistically hunt and gather food among the various vendors, and carry it with you to the bars, so everyone can eat and drink what they please.
Dining In...Or Out
The second floor has plenty of other shops selling books, African arts and crafts, boutique gifts, soaps, and the like.
There is plenty to eat and drink on the premises. Or take home. Or both. It’s only confusing if you think about it. Remember: Chaos. Don’t think too much. Just do as you please. For example, if you want to carry a freshly made cheese plate over to The Breeze Wine Bar, you could stop at Harvey’s Cheese and pick up one that’s already been prepared, or you could ask the staff to hand slice some cheeses you particularly enjoy and arrange your own selection. Harvey’s is owned by Brent and Ashley Urjil Mills, and their staff includes some expert professionals, including veteran cheese professional Adam “Chubs” Steckler (who sometimes contributes to F&D). They maintain a world-class cheese case that features elite cheese from around here (Capriole and Kenny’s) around the nation and around the world. If you’re on the lookout for great sheep’s milk cheeses from New York, or washed rind varieties from Italy, or you want someone to slice you a few ounces fresh from a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, you must go to Harvey’s. If you’re in the market for pastries, desserts or breads, or an excellent lunch from one of the city’s best-known kitchens, Wiltshire Pantry has a great outpost here. Or maybe you crave lox and cream cheese on a bagel. For that, stop at Cold Smoke Bagels, which also offers Jewish deli noshes and classics like matjes herring, smoked whitefish salad and matzoh ball soup (including grab-and-go and catering offerings). If you’re in the market for meats, The Country Meat Company (the local outpost of a prominent meat market based in Cincinnati’s famous Findlay Market) is an old school shop with an extraordinary selection — and the knife skills to give you exactly what you want. Among the offerings are var-
(group of four) The Bodega’s grocery shelves (top left) and produce section (top right); Beth Pardue chats with guests at Honey Depot Apiary (bottom left); shoppers take in the assortment at Wiltshire Pantry (bottom right). 40 40
Logan Street Market_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 4:32 AM Page 41
ious house-made sausages (including low-fat options like chicken). If you’re looking for wild rabbit, hog maws, duck, goose or smoked turkey legs, this is your place. If you’re shopping for sustainable boat-to-table fish and seafood, stop at St. Brendan’s Seafood. The owner, David Wright, is a fellow who knows his fish from boat to table. He’s a commercial fisherman who spends a couple of months each year on the salmon trail in Alaska. When I dropped by, his case included gems like freshly caught Lake Erie Walleye and gorgeous, wild-caught striped bass. And if you ask him, he’ll tell you some fish stories — the true kind.
Restaurant Row
There are no walled-off sit-down restaurants in the Logan Street Market. But there are four places located toward the back of the market that have a more restaurant-like mission and merit special attention. From a culinary standpoint, Louisville is more cosmopolitan than “Southern.” But visitors (and locals, for that matter) are always on the hunt for good southern-style cuisine. And Logan Street Market has that covered. Walk up to Chef Jeff Brantley’s Bramble and you’ll see signs that unabashedly announce the restaurant’s mission: “Genuine Southern Food.” Brantley is from Columbus, Georgia, studied at Ole Miss, has worked in some impressive kitchens (including Gralehouse), and is dishing up some of the city’s best Southern fare at Bramble. His visually arresting dishes include a beet salad with local greens, pistachios, Kenny’s blue cheese and a sherry-citrus vinaigrette. He brings a playful clarity to catfish nuggets and hush puppies. He’s got beer can chicken and a dangerously indulgent pork Reuben (tell me that’s not a good idea!) on dark rye, and offers sides like rich cheese grits. His curried broccoli is a great
(below, from left) An assortment of Wiltshire Pantry’s pastries; cheese plate from Harvey’s Cheese; classic lox and bagel from Cold Smoke Bagels.
The Country Meat Company.
Owner David Wright tends the case at St. Brendan’s Seafood.
41
Logan Street Market_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 2:01 AM Page 42
42
Logan Street Market_Spr20_Ed-final.qxp_Road Trip_Cinci.qxd 3/2/20 2:01 AM Page 43
reminder that southern cookery has always been more eclectic than the stereotype. Best of all are the wonderful extras that are the pride of every good southern cook, but are rarely found on a restaurant menu: homemade bread-and-butter pickles, and a high-spirited concoction he calls giardiniera that I would call Hillbilly Kimchi (except for the fact that it’s not fermented). If he’ll let you buy a jar of that, take one home! Maybe I’m wrong when I say Louisville’s cuisine is not “Southern” but “cosmopolitan.” Maybe Southern is cosmopolitan… If so, Ziba’s Bistro is a case in point. Chef Bapion Ziba is from Burkina Faso, spent nearly a decade cooking in Montpelier, and then came to Louisville, where he has worked in the kitchens of Anoosh Bistro and Volare. Later this spring, he’s receiving a Mosaic Award from Jewish Family and Career Services for service to the community. Ziba ought also to get an award for his cookery. One night I dined at his small counter on a bowl of vegetarian black-eyed peas. There’s nothing more “Southern” than that. It’s one of the simplest dishes in the world, and it is a dish associated with cuisines all over the world. But Ziba’s version was so amazing that I wanted to summon everyone in the market to come over and grab a bite. (I didn’t go that far, but I did grab a friend away from the wine bar.) A chef who can make magic out of a bowl of veggie beans can do anything. And Ziba is equally brilliant with more elaborate dishes: a wonderful antipasto plate; a combination of smoked and fresh salmon with pasta and saffron; exquisitely fried shrimp and squash served over basmati rice; and an assortment of salads, sandwiches and other entrees. At Alchemy, owned by Nelson Michelangeli and Nahyla Suarez de Michelangeli, the kitchen creates Venezuelan/Latin fusion cuisine, sometimes with Italian influences (Nelson is of Italian descent). So you’ll find the traditional Venezuelan arepa preparation — grilled corn cakes filled with things like pork, beef, fish, or black beans. But you’ll also find it served Caprese-style, with tomato, mozzarella, and pesto. Or you can dine on gluten-free Venezuelan-style sandwiches called Patacones, where the bread is replaced with twice-fried plantain slices. Venezula’s national dish, Pabello Criollo, is also on offer: a platter of rice, beans, shredded beef and sweet plantains, luxuriously finished with fried eggs. Foko is the creation of partners Paco Garcia and Josh Gonzalez, who worked together at Con Huevos, where Garcia was executive chef and Gonzalez ran the front of the house (Garcia was a nominee for Best Chef Southeast in the 2018 James Beard Awards). Here, the pair is dishing out a fusion of Mexican and Southern cuisine. You want a choice of bologna or chorizo or bacon in your breakfast burrito with a side of mashed potatoes? They’ll do it. Or you can breakfast on excellent chilaquiles, or lighten things up with the green glow of an avocado-lime salad. Or just plan to get back to the Logan Street Market as frequently as you can. It’s open every day but Monday. There’s no other place quite like it in the city.Take your out-of-town guests there. Give them a chance to be travelers instead of tourists. F&D
logan street market | profile
(clockwise from top left) Alchemy’s pabellon criollo with black beans, sunnyside egg and plantains; Ziba’s Chef/Owner Bapion Ziba; Foko chefs Paco Garcia (right) and brother David Garcia; taquitos filled with chicken tinga in a morita salsa from Foko; Ziba’s Bistro’s vegetable plate of black eyed peas, caponata and roasted Brussels sprouts; Wiltshire Pantry’s curried lentil soup with a Stone Cross City ham, Swiss cheese and pickled peppers sandwich; Bramble’s brisket sliders; Bramble Chef/Owner Jeff Brantley. www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 43
dining guide
Guide Index_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 3/2/20 2:13 AM Page 44
Cuisine Style
African..............................69 Asian/Chinese..................70 Asian/Filipino....................71 Asian/Japanese. ..............71 Asian/Korean ...................72 Asian/Thai........................72
Asian/Vietnamese ............72 Bar & Grill/Taphouse........66 Barbecue .........................62 Bistro/New American .......50 Burgers/Chicken ..............55 Cafés ...............................56 Cafeterias/Buffet ..............66 Cajun/Creole....................72 Casual Dining ..................58 Coffee/Tea Houses ..........81 Cuban/Caribbean.............73
Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT
211 Clover Lane 21st Amendment Tavern 321 Deli 4 Seasons Restaurant 410 Bakery 502 Bar & Bistro 610 Magnolia 78 Coffee Shop 80/20 @ Kaelin's 888 Great Wall 8th Street Pizza 8UP Drinkery A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Abyssinia Á-Châu Restaurant Addis Grill Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne's Italian Africa House Against The Grain Agave & Rye Epic Tacos Aji Sushi and Asian Cuisine Al Hamra Halal Buffet Aladdin's Mediterranean Alchemy Restaurant Alex&nder Alley Cat Café Alwatan Restaurant American Smokehouse Stadium Amici Angilo's Pizza Angio's Italian Restaurant Annie Café Annie May's Sweets Café Annie's Pizza Anoosh Bistro Another Place Sandwich Shop Apna Café Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee's Arata Sushi Arni's Pizza Arno's Pizza Aroma Café Art Eatables Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Wok Aspen Creek Restaurant Aspire Café Atlantic No. 5 Atrium Café August Moon B.J.'s Restaurant & Brewhouse B3Q BBQ Babie Bac'z Good Grill Baby Mae's Back Yard Burger Bandido Taqueria Mexicana Bar Vetti Baraka Restaurant Barn8 Barrelhouse on Market Barry's Cheesesteaks Baxter's 942 Bean Bean Street Café Bearno's Beef O'Brady's Bella Italia Bella Roma Bella's Diner Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Ben's BBQ Big Momma's Soul Kitchen Biscuit Belly Bistro Le Relais Bitters End Blackbeard Espresso Blackstone Grille Blaze Fast Fire'd Pizza Blind Squirrel Blue Dog Bakery Blue Horse Café Bluegrass Brewing Company Bob's Steak & Chop House Bombay Grill Bonefish Grill Bonnie & Clyde's Pizza Book & Bourbon Southern Kitchen Boombozz Pizza • Watch Bar
RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 48 54 63 76 80 50 48 81 55 70 60 49 58 70 69 72 69 80 74 69 68 58 71 76 76 76 50 56 76 62 74 60 74 72 80 60 51 63 75 68 58 71 60 60 56 80 71 70 70 58 56 56 56 70 66 62 62 62 55 77 74 69 48 66 63 66 81 81 60 66 74 74 65 66 62 65 58 74 66 81 49 60 58 56 56 68 54 75 52 60 66 60
MAP #
Fine Dining 3 Gastropub 13 Deli / Sandwich 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 11 Desserts / Bakery 14 Bistro / New American 8 Fine Dining 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Burgers / Chicken 2 Asian / Chinese 8 Pizza 14 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian / Chinese 1 African 1 Asian / Vietnamese 13 African 1 Desserts / Bakery 14, 16 European / Italian 16 African 12 Microbreweries 1 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Japanese 11 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 14 Latin American 1 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Barbecue 16 European / Italian 13 Pizza 13 European / Italian 6 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Desserts / Bakery 3 Pizza 9,12 Bistro / New American 7 Deli / Sandwich 1 Indian 8 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 11,12,13,14,15 Asian / Japanese 10 Pizza 14 Pizza 4 Cafes 14 Desserts / Bakery 1 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Chinese 14 Asian / Chinese 2 Casual Dining 3,11 Cafes 1 Cafes 1 Cafes 5 Asian / Chinese 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Barbecue 14 Barbecue 12 Barbecue 14 Burgers / Chicken 6 Mexican 1,13 European / Italian 1 African 1 Fine Dining 10 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1,2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Pizza [14] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5,3,14 European / Italian 16 European / Italian 14 Diner / Home Style 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Barbecue 16 Southern / Soul Food 9 Casual Dining 1,3,13 European / French 4 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 3,5,8,15 Casual Dining 5 Cafes 2 Cafes 13 Microbreweries 1 Steakhouse 1 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12 Southern / Soul Food 13 Pizza 2,5,6,15
44 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
Indian ...............................75 Latin American .................76 Mediterranean/Mid East...76 Mexican ...........................77 Microbreweries ................68 Pizza ................................60 Seafood ...........................52 Southern/Soul Food.........65 Southwest/Tex Mex..........79 Steakhouse......................54 Upscale Casual................49
Deli/Sandwich ..................63 Desserts/Bakery ..............80 Diner/Home Style.............65 Entertainment Dining .......69 European/French .............74 European/German ...........74 European/Irish .................74 European/Italian...............74 European/Spanish ...........75 Fine Dining.......................48 Gastropub ........................54
RESTAURANT
Boomer's Café Boomtown Bootleg Barbecue Co. Borromeo's Pizza & Italian Borsalino Café & Deli Boudreaux's Cajun Cooking Boudreaux's Sno-Balls Boujie Biscuit Bourbon Raw Bourbon's Bistro Bramble Brasserie Provence Bravo! Brazeiros Churrascaria Breadworks Brendon's Catch 23 Brian's Deli Brick House Tavern + Tap Bridge and Barrel Bristol Bar & Grille Brix Wine Bar Brooke & Billy’s Brooklyn & The Butcher Brownie's 'The Shed' Bruegger's Bagels Bubba's 33 Buca Di Beppo Buckhead Mountain Grill Buck's Bud's Tavern & Barbecue Buffalo Wild Wings Bungalow Joe's Bar & Grill Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burger Girl BurgerIM Butcher Block Eatery at High Horse Butcher's Best Butchertown Grocery Butchertown Grocery Bakery Café 157 Café 223 Café 360 Café Aroma Café Magnolia Café On Meigs Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico California Pizza kitchen Cancún Captain Ville Captain's Quarters Riverside Grille Carali's Rotisserie Chicken Cardinal Hall Of Fame Café Caribbean Café Carrabba's Italian Grill Carr's BBQ and Market Caspian Grill Persian Café Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Catfish Haven Restaurant Cattleman's Roadhouse Cellar Door Chocolates Chamling Kitchen & Bar Champions Grille Charcoal Charlestown Pizza Co. Charr'd Bourbon Kitchen Check's BBQ & Blues Check's Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar's Scratch Kitchen Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Chef's Cut Pizzeria Chicago Steak & Lemonade The Chicken House Chicken King Chik'n & Mi Chilakiles Oaxacan Breakfast Chili's China 1 China Bistro China Buffet China Café China Castle China Chef China Coast China Dragon China Garden China Inn China King China Star
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 56 58 62 60 56 72 80 58 49 51 66 74 49 54 80 49 63 58 51 49 51 58 54 66 63 66 74 58 48 66 55 66 55 65 65 55 66 63 51 80 56 56 56 77 59 56 72 57 60 77 52 52 76 59 73 74 62 76 54 63 52 54 80 75 59 76 60 49 62 65 57 59 70 49 60 63 55 55 72 77 59 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70
MAP #
Cafes 1 Casual Dining 14 Barbecue 11 Pizza 13 Cafes 4 Cajun / Creole 5 Desserts / Bakery 5 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 1 Bistro / New American 2 Southern / Soul Food 1 European / French 5 Upscale Casual 3 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 2,5,7 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Casual Dining 6 Bistro / New American 16 Upscale Casual 1,2,5 Bistro / New American 8 Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,14 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 European / Italian 6 Casual Dining 4,16 Fine Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,12 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,6,8,11,12,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Burgers / Chicken 2 Diner / Home Style 13 Diner / Home Style 3 Burgers / Chicken 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Deli / Sandwich 10 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Cafes 14 Cafes 16 Cafes 2 Mexican 2 Casual Dining 1 Cafes 16 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Cafes 2 Pizza 5 Mexican 5 Seafood 9 Seafood 10 Latin American 1,2,5,6 Casual Dining 13 Cuban / Caribbean 2 European / Italian 5 Barbecue 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1 Seafood 12 Steakhouse 6,13 Desserts / Bakery 1,2 Indian 4 Casual Dining 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 Pizza 16 Upscale Casual 6 Barbecue 5 Diner / Home Style 13 Cafes 3 Casual Dining 8,13,15 Asian / Chinese 1 Upscale Casual 3 Pizza 5 Deli / Sandwich 9,12 Burgers / Chicken 14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Casual Dining 2,4,5,8,13,15 Asian / Chinese 3,5 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 8,13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 4,6 Asian / Chinese 3
RESTAURANT
China Taste Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Choi's Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopsticks Chopsticks House Christi's Café Chubby Ray's Louisville Pizza Co. Chung King Palace Chuy's Ciao City Barbecue City Café Clarksville Seafood Clay Oven Clifton Donuts Clucker's Wings Coals Artisan Pizza Coconut Beach Tacos Coffee Crossing The Coffee Zone Cold Smoke Bagels Cold Stone Creamery Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Common Table Con Huevos CoreLife Eatery Corner Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Couvillion Crave Café & Catering Cravings Ala Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Crème De Lou Crescent Hill Craft House Cricket's Café Cuba y Mas Culver's Cunningham's Creekside Cup of Joy Cuvée Wine Table D. Nalley's Daddy Rich's Dairy Kastle Daisy Mae's Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat's Gateaux & Bakery Danny Mac's Pasta & Pizza Dasha Barbours Bistro Dave & Buster's Dave & Peg's Copper Kettle Day's Espresso Decca Denny's Derby Café Express Derby City Pizza Derby Dinner Playhouse Diamond Pub & Billiards Diamond Street Grub & Hops Difabio's Casapela Dino's Dino's Bakery DiOrio's Pizza & Pub Dish On Market District 6 Ditto's Grill Divine Treats Dixie Chicken Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow's Doc's Bourbon Room Donum Dei Brewery Dos Gringos Double Dogs Double Dragon Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon II Down One Bourbon Bar Downtowner Deli Dragon Café Dragon King's Daughter Drake's Dundee Tavern East Star Buffet Eat A Pita Eat Your Bourbon Marketplace Eatz Vietnamese Restaurant Eddie Merlot's Eggs Over Frankfort Ehrler's Ice Cream Eiderdown El Caporal El Frijol El Mariachi El Molcajete El Mundo El Nopal El Rinconcito El Rio Grande El Sabor de Cuba El Sazon de Abuela El Sinaloa Mexican Restaurant El Sombrero El Taco Loco El Taco Luchador El Tarasco El Torazo El Toro Cantina & Grill Endless Summer Coffee Company The English Grill Equus & Jack's Restaurant Ernesto's American Bar & Grill Exchange Pub + Kitchen Executive Bistro The Falafel House Falafel Oasis Falls City Taproom Family Ties Famous Dave's Fante's Coffee Farm to Fork Café Fat Jimmy's FDKY BBQ Feast BBQ Fiesta Mexicana Fiesta Time Amigos Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Firehouse Subs Firenza
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 70 70 77 71 70 70 70 57 60 70 79 74 62 57 53 75 80 55 60 77 81 81 63 80 74 80 59 77 59 54 57 65 65 72 57 66 57 80 54 57 76 55 53 57 51 65 55 80 66 75 80 60 66 69 65 81 49 59 57 60 69 66 66 74 55 80 60 51 54 51 80 55 55 50 54 68 77 59 70 70 70 54 63 70 71 67 67 70 76 59 72 54 51 80 74 77 77 77 77 77 77 76 77 73 76 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 81 48 50 77 54 65 76 76 67 55 62 81 57 60 62 62 77 77 77 63 60
MAP #
Asian / Chinese 16 Asian / Chinese 12 Mexican 1,2,5,8 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 9,13 Cafes 12 Pizza 6 Asian / Chinese 1 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,15 European / Italian 2 Barbecue 5 Cafes 13 Seafood 15 Indian 5 Desserts / Bakery 2 Burgers / Chicken 14,16 Pizza 3,5,13 Mexican 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Deli / Sandwich 1 Desserts / Bakery 6,16 European / Italian 1 Desserts / Bakery 2,5,13 Casual Dining 9 Mexican 1,2,8 Casual Dining 15 Gastropub 1 Cafes 5 Diner / Home Style 5 Diner / Home Style 13 Cajun / Creole 13 Cafes 2 Cafeterias / Buffet 1 Cafes 14 Desserts / Bakery 1 Gastropub 2 Cafes 15 Latin American 11 Burgers / Chicken 6,13,15 Seafood 10 Cafes 9 Bistro / New American 8 Diner / Home Style 1 Burgers / Chicken 1 Desserts / Bakery 13 Southern / Soul Food 14 Indian 11 Desserts / Bakery 13 Pizza 2 Southern / Soul Food 1,2 Entertainment Dining 3 Diner / Home Style 5 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 3,13 Cafes 13 Pizza 2,6,12,13 Entertainment Dining 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2,3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 4 Desserts / Bakery 9 Pizza 2,3 Bistro / New American 1 Gastropub 3 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 15 Burgers / Chicken 9,12,13 Burgers / Chicken 1 Upscale Casual 1 Gastropub 1 Microbreweries 11 Mexican 16 Casual Dining 5 Asian / Chinese 9,2 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 8,11,12,13 Gastropub 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Asian / Chinese 10 Asian / Japanese 2,14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3,8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Steakhouse 1 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 European / German 13 Mexican 4,6 Mexican 2 Mexican 5 Mexican 13 Mexican 2 Mexican [22] Latin American 11 Mexican 5 Cuban / Caribbean 13 Latin American 13 Mexican 14 Mexican 16 Mexican 13 Mexican 1,2,3,6,13 Mexican 3,5,13 Mexican 6 Mexican 5 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 3 Mexican 12 Gastropub 14 Diner / Home Style 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 9 Barbecue 6 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 9 Pizza 5 Barbecue 6 Barbecue 1,6 Mexican 4 Mexican 5,11 Mexican 8 Deli / Sandwich 5,11 Pizza 5
Guide Index_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 3/2/20 2:13 AM Page 45
RESTAURANT
First String Bar & Grill First Watch First Wok The Fish House The Fishery Five Guys Burgers Flanagan's Ale House Flo’s House of Soul Flora Kitchenette Floyd County Brewing Co. Foko Fork & Barrel Forty Acres & A Mule Restaurant Four Kings Café Four Pegs Beer Lounge Franco's Restaurant Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot Frank's Meat & Produce Frontier Diner Fuji Asian Bistro Fuji Japanese Steakhouse Full Stop Filling Station Funmi's African Restaurant Galan's Meat Market & Deli Galan's Meat Market & Grille Galaxie Galley at Goodwood Game Gander, An American Grill Garage Bar Gasthaus Gatsby's On Fourth Gelato Gilberto Geraldine's Kitchen Gerstle's Place Get It On a Bun at Booty's Gigi's Cupcakes Ginza Asian Bistro Gogi 1055 Korean BBQ Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Star Chinese The Golden Wall Goose Creek Diner Gordon Biersch Brewery Gracious Plenty The Grain Haus Gralehaus Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grassa Gramma Gravely Brewing Co. Great American Grill Great Flood Brewing Co. Great Wall Great Wok Green District Salads Green Leaf Natural Vegetarian Bistro Grind Burger Kitchen Growler USA Guaca Mole Gustavo's Mexican Grill Guy Fieri's Smokehouse Gypsy's Sports Grille H. M. Frank's Habana Blues Tapas The Hall on Washington Hammerheads Happy China Happy Dragon Hard Rock Café Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q Harrods Creek Tavern Harry's Harvest Harvey’s Cheese Havana Bakery Café Havana Rumba Havana Rumba & Tapas Haymarket Bistro Heart & Soy Hearth on Mellwood Heine Brothers' Coffee Heitzman Bakery & Deli Hell or High Water Hibachi Buffet Hibachi Sushi Buffet Hi-Five Doughnuts Highland Coffee Co. Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Highview Ice Cream & Coffee Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hillcrest Tavern Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Holy Grale Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que Home Run Burgers Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Brewing Co. Hometown Pizza Honest Indian Honey Crème Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Fast Food Hooked on Frankfort Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters HopCat Hosanna's Kitchen Hot Box Eatery Howl at the Moon Hungry Pelican I Love Tacos IHOP Imanka Restaurant Indi's Restaurant International Tap House The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet J. Alexander's Redlands Grill J. Graham's Café J. Gumbo's J. Harrod's Jack Binion's Steakhouse Jack Fry's Jade Palace Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jasmine Asian Bistro
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 59 59 70 53 53 55 67 66 80 68 77 50 66 65 54 66 62 63 65 71 71 57 69 63 73 54 62 59 59 51 74 59 80 65 67 55 80 71 72 70 66 70 70 65 68 57 60 54 67 76 74 69 67 69 70 70 59 59 55 67 77 77 62 67 55 73 55 51 70 70 52 62 59 67 50 63 73 73 73 57 71 52 81 80 67 70 70 80 81 57 67 81 71 53 67 67 67 52 62 55 80 69 60 76 80 64 70 53 67 56 67 65 57 69 53 77 59 70 56 67 74 61 77 50 57 72 50 54 48 70 80 70 70
MAP #
Casual Dining 13 Casual Dining 3,5,6,15 Asian / Chinese 12 Seafood 2,5 Seafood 11 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,8,11,14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 2 Microbreweries 14 Mexican 1 Upscale Casual 2 Southern / Soul Food 13 Diner / Home Style 4 Gastropub 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Barbecue 3 Deli / Sandwich 13 Diner / Home Style 12 Asian / Japanese 12 Asian / Japanese 8 Cafes 1 African 4 Deli / Sandwich 9 Cuban / Caribbean 9 Gastropub 1 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 5 Bistro / New American 1 European / German 7 Casual Dining 1 Desserts / Bakery 8 Diner / Home Style 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Burgers / Chicken 14 Desserts / Bakery 6,8 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Korean 2 Asian / Chinese 13 Cafeterias / Buffet 4,12,13,15 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 13 Diner / Home Style 8 Microbreweries 1 Cafes 2,10 Pizza 14 Gastropub 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 European / Italian 7 Microbreweries 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Microbreweries 2,5 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Chinese 13 Casual Dining 1,3 Casual Dining 13 Burgers / Chicken 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Mexican 5 Mexican 8,10 Barbecue 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Gastropub 16 Cuban / Caribbean 14 Gastropub 1 Bistro / New American 1 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Bistro / New American 1 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 10 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Cuban / Caribbean 11 Cuban / Caribbean 5 Cuban / Caribbean 2 Cafes 1 Asian / Japanese 2 Bistro / New American 2 Coffee / Tea Houses [18] Desserts / Bakery 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11,13 Desserts / Bakery 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 2,3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 11 Asian / Japanese 1,5 Seafood 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Bistro / New American 2 Barbecue 13 Burgers / Chicken 5,6,13 Desserts / Bakery [8] Microbreweries 13 Pizza 6,7,11,13 Indian 6 Desserts / Bakery 14 Deli / Sandwich 3,11,14 Asian / Chinese 13 Seafood 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Burgers / Chicken 3,13,12,15,16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Diner / Home Style 9 Cafes 1 Entertainment Dining 1 Seafood 11 Latin American 6 Casual Dining 6,15 African 1 Burgers / Chicken [8] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Irish 2 Pizza 13 Mexican 14 Upscale Casual 3 Cafes 1 Cajun / Creole 2,6 Upscale Casual 10 Steakhouse 14 Fine Dining 2 Asian / Chinese 5 Desserts / Bakery 4 Asian / Chinese 5 Asian / Chinese 7
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 45
Guide Index_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 3/2/20 2:13 AM Page 46
RESTAURANT
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE
Jason's Deli 64 Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse 54 Jeff's Bakery 80 56 Jeff's Burger Shack Jersey Mike's Subs 64 Jersey's Café 67 Jerusalem Kitchen 76 Jets Pizza 61 Joe Huber Restaurant 69 Joella's Hot Chicken 56 Joe's Crab Shack 53 Joe's Older than Dirt 59 John O'Bryan's Tavern 67 Johnny Brusco's Pizza 61 The Joy Luck 70 J-Town Beach 67 Jucy's Smokehouse 62 Jumbo Buffet 70 Juno 71 JW Café & Bakery 57 Kai Lana Sushi 71 Kansai Japanese Steakhouse 71 Karem's 59 Kashmir Indian 76 Kathmandu Kitchen and Bar 76 Kayrouz Café 57 Kern's Korner 67 Kevin's Picnic 57 Khalil's 67 Kim & Bab 72 King Donuts 80 KingFish 53 King's Fried Chicken 56 Kobe Japanese Steak 71 Kolkin Coffee 81 Koreana II 72 L & J Asian Cuisine 70 La Bodeguita de Mima 73 La Catrina Mexican Kitchen 77 La Chandeleur 52 La Chapinlandia 77 La Chasse 48 La Guanaquita 77 La Hacienda Guadalajara 78 La Lupita 78 La Peche 57 La Popular 78 La Que 72 La Riviera Maya 78 La Rosita Taqueria 78 La Sierra 78 La Suerte 77 La Torta Loca 78 La Tropicana 78 64 Lady Tron's Las Americas Mexican Restaurant 78 Las Cazuelas 78 Las Gorditas 78 Las Margaritas Mexican Cuisine 78 L'bads Ice Cream Parlor 80 Le Moo 54 Le Petit Café 57 Lee's Korean 72 Lemongrass Restaurant 72 Lenny's Sub Shop 64 Levee at River House 52 80 Liège & Dairy Ice Cream + Waffles Lil' Wagners 65 Lilly's 48 Limòn y Sal 78 Ling Ling 70 Little Caesar's Pizza 61 Little Greek Fresh Grill 76 Liu's Garden 70 Logan's Roadhouse 54 Lola's Kitchen 71 Longhorn Steakhouse 54 Lonnie's Best Taste Of Chicago 64 Los Aztecas 78 Lotsa Pasta 64 Lou Lou Food + Drink 52 Louie's Hot Chicken & Barbecue 62 Louisville Café India 76 Louisville Cream 80 Louisville International Pub 67 Louisville Tea Co. 81 Louisville Vegan Foods 64 Louvino 52 Lucky Burrito 78 Lucretia's Kitchen 66 Lueberry Acai & Superfoods 80 Luigi's 61 Luna's Rotisserie 78 M&M BBQ 62 M+A+F Gallery & Café 81 Ma Zerella's 61 Maa Sha Allah 70 Mack Bros BBQ 62 Mac's Dough House 61 Main Eatery 64 Main Event Bar & Grill 69 Maira Mediterranean Grill 76 Mai's Thai Restaurant 72 Mama's Kitchen Carryout 66 Mango's Bar & Grill 78 Manhattan Grill 64 The Manhattan Project 55 Marco's Pizza 61 Mark T's Slabhouse 62 Marketplace Restaurant 50 Mark's Feed Store 62 Martini Itialian Bistro 74 Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint 62 Masa Japanese 71 Masala Grill 76 Matt Winn Steakhouse 54 Mattie's Kitchen 66 Mayan Café 78 McAlister's Deli 64 McQuixote Books & Coffee 81 Melrose Café 57 The Melting Pot 50 Mercato Italiano 74 Merle's Whiskey Kitchen 52 Mesa 69 Mesh 50 Metro Diner 65 Mexa Tacos 78 Mexico City Tacqueria and Restaurant 78 Mi Casita Parrilla Mexicana 78 Mi Sueño 73 Mi Tierra Mexican Restaurant 78 Migo 78
MAP #
Deli / Sandwich 3,5 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 14,16 Burgers / Chicken 12 Deli / Sandwich 5,6,8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Pizza 2,3,5,8,11 Entertainment Dining 14 Burgers / Chicken 3,5 Seafood 1 Casual Dining 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Pizza 8 Asian / Chinese 2,8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6 Barbecue 5 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Japanese 13 Cafes 5 Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 6,15 Casual Dining 8 Indian 2 Indian 4 Cafes 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Cafes 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Asian / Korean 14 Desserts / Bakery 5 Seafood 7,16 Burgers / Chicken 9 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Chinese 10 Cuban / Caribbean 1 Mexican 14 Bistro / New American 13 Mexican 13 Fine Dining 2 Latin American 13 Mexican 13 Mexican 15 Cafes 2 Mexican 13 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 5,13 Mexican 11 Latin American 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Mexican 4 Mexican 13 Mexican 11 Mexican 5 Desserts / Bakery 9 Steakhouse 2 Cafes 2 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Vietnamese 4,5 Deli / Sandwich 4 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 5,7 Diner / Home Style 13 Fine Dining 2 Mexican 8 Asian / Chinese 5 Pizza [15] Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Chinese 5 Steakhouse 6,12,15 Asian / Filipino 2 Steakhouse 6,8,13,15 Deli / Sandwich 2 Mexican 5,10 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bistro / New American 3 Barbecue 1,13 Indian 5 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Deli / Sandwich 1 Bistro / New American 2,5 Mexican 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 1 Pizza 1 Mexican 13 Barbecue 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Pizza 15 African 4 Barbecue 9 Pizza 1,6 Deli / Sandwich 1 Entertainment Dining 6 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Thai 16 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mexican 3,6,13 Deli / Sandwich 1 Gastropub 2 Pizza 14 Barbecue 13 Upscale Casual 1 Barbecue 2,5,11,12,14 European / Italian 8 Barbecue 2,8 Asian / Japanese 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Steakhouse 13 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mexican 1 Deli / Sandwich [10] Coffee / Tea Houses 9 Cafes 10 Upscale Casual 6 European / Italian 8 Bistro / New American 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Upscale Casual 3 Diner / Home Style 11 Mexican 1,3 Mexican 16 Mexican 1,6 Cuban / Caribbean 4,13 Mexican 5,7 Mexican 2
46 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
RESTAURANT
Mike Linnig's Mike's Tavern Milantoni Italian Restaurant MilkWood Mimi's Café Mimo's Pizzeria Mirage Mediterranean Restaurant Misawa Hibachi & Sushi Miss Ada’s Mission BBQ Mitchell's Fish Market MOD Pizza Moe's Southwest Grill Mojito in Havana Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone's Momma's Mustard, Pickles & BBQ Momma's Pizza Monnik Beer Co. More Shenanigan's Morris Deli & Catering Morton's Of Chicago Moya's American Kitchen Mozza Pi Mr. Gatti's Mt. Fuji Mussel & Burger Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Naila's Caribbean Cuisine Naïve NamNam Café Nancy's Bagel Box Napa River Grill Neighborhood Services Neil & Patty's Fireside Grill New Albanian Brewing Co. New Albany Roadhouse New China New Direction Bar & Grill New Wave Burritos Nirvana No Baked Cookie Dough Noche Mexican BBQ Noodles & Company Noosh Nosh Nord's Bakery North End Café North Lime Donuts Nouvelle Bar & Bottle Ntaba Coffee Haus O'Charley's O'Connell's Irish Pub O'Dolly's Oishii Sushi Old Chicago Old Hickory Inn Old Louisville Chili Bowl Old Louisville Pizza Co. Old School NY Pizza Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Olé Frijole Ole Hickory Pit BBQ O-Line Sports Grill Olive Garden Ollie's Trolley Onion Restaurant & Tea House Open Caribbean Kitchen Orange Clover Kitchen Oriental Café Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri's Osaka Sushi Bar O'Shea's Irish Pub Oskar's Slider Bar Ostra Our Lady of Perpetual Hops Outback Steakhouse OvrDrive Games P.F. Chang's China Bistro Panchitos Ice Cream Panda China Panda Express Panera Bread Co. Papa Murphy's Pizza Parlour Parnelli's Chicago Eatery Pasha's Mediterranean Passtime Fish House Patrick O'Shea's Pat's Steak House Paul's Fruit Market Payne Street Bakehouse Pearl Street Game & Coffee House Pearl Street Taphouse Pearl Street Treats Peking City Express Penn Station Peppers Bar and Grill Pesto's Italian Philly Cheesesteak Express Pho Ba Luu Pho Café Pho Phi Pier 17 Cajun Seafood Pin + Proof Piña Fiesta Mexican Grill Pints&Union Pizza Bar Pizza Donisi Pizza King Pizza Lupo Pizza Place Please & Thank You Plehn's Bakery PokeHana Polly Freeze Ponderosa Steakhouse Porch Kitchen & Bar Porcini Porkland BBQ Portage House Potbelly Sandwhich Shop Primo's Delicatessen Primo's Pizza Proof On Main Prospect Café Public House by Against The Grain Puerto Vallarta Pure Blendz Purrfect Day Cat Café Qdoba Mexican Grill
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 53 68 74 48 59 61 76 71 66 62 53 61 79 73 75 74 62 61 69 74 64 54 59 61 61 71 56 80 69 73 59 72 64 50 52 68 61 59 70 68 78 68 80 78 59 52 80 57 80 52 81 60 74 65 71 61 68 60 61 61 74 50 78 62 68 74 56 71 73 58 71 71 71 61 71 74 56 52 69 54 69 52 80 71 71 64 61 61 64 76 53 74 54 64 64 81 68 80 71 64 68 74 64 72 72 72 53 69 79 68 61 61 61 61 61 81 81 71 81 54 68 74 62 60 64 64 61 50 58 69 79 58 58 79
MAP #
Seafood 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 European / Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 5 Pizza 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Asian / Japanese 11 Southern / Soul Food 1 Barbecue 3,15 Seafood 8 Pizza 4 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,6,8,11 Cuban / Caribbean 3 European / Spanish 7 European / Irish 2,3 Barbecue 3,5 Pizza 15 Microbreweries 13 European / Irish 4 Deli / Sandwich 2 Steakhouse 1 Casual Dining 6 Pizza 5 Pizza 12,13,15 Asian / Japanese 13 Burgers / Chicken 1,6 Desserts / Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 13 Cuban / Caribbean 15 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Deli / Sandwich 1 Upscale Casual 5 Bistro / New American 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Pizza 14 Casual Dining 14 Asian / Chinese 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Desserts / Bakery 6 Mexican 2 Casual Dining 6,8,13 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 13 Cafes 2 Desserts / Bakery 13 Bistro / New American 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13 European / Irish 11 Diner / Home Style 13 Asian / Japanese 4 Pizza 6,8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Casual Dining 1 Pizza 1 Pizza 5 European / Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Mexican 11 Barbecue 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 European / Italian 6,8,11,15 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Chinese 14 Cuban / Caribbean 13 Cafes 16 Asian / Chinese 4 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Pizza 1,2,5,10 Asian / Japanese 1,2 European / Irish 2 Burgers / Chicken 13 Bistro / New American 2 Microbreweries 14 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 Entertainment Dining 1 Bistro / New American 5 Desserts / Bakery 2,13 Asian / Chinese 10 Asian / Chinese 5,6,8,15 Deli / Sandwich [10] Pizza [10] Pizza 16 Deli / Sandwich 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Seafood 6 European / Irish 1 Steakhouse 2 Deli / Sandwich 3,4,5,7 Deli / Sandwich 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Desserts / Bakery 16 Asian / Chinese 3 Deli / Sandwich [17] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 1 Deli / Sandwich 5 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Seafood 6 Entertainment Dining 1 Mexican 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Pizza 1 Pizza 13 Pizza 14,16 Pizza 2 Pizza 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2,10 Desserts / Bakery 3 Asian / Japanese 1 Desserts / Bakery 14 Steakhouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 2 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 16 Deli / Sandwich 1,6,8 Deli / Sandwich 14 Pizza 6 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 10 Microbreweries 2 Mexican 11,14,16 Cafes 1 Cafes 2 Mexican [17]
RESTAURANT
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE
Queen of Sheba 70 Queue Café 58 Quick Wok 71 Quill's Coffee 81 Quizno's Subs 64 Rafferty's of Louisville 60 Railbirds Hot Chicken 56 Raising Cane's 56 Ramen House 71 Ramiro's Cantina 79 Ramiro's Cantina Express 79 Ramsi's Café 58 Rawnaissance Desserts 81 Recbar 68 Red Hog 58 Red Hot Roasters 81 Red Lobster 53 Red Robin 56 Red Sun Chinese Restaurant 71 Red Top Gourmet Hot Dogs 56 Red Yeti Brewing Co. 69 Repeal Oak-Fired Steakhouse 54 Rice Bowl 72 Rice Box 71 River City Drafthouse 68 River House Restaurant 50 River Road BBQ 62 Riverside Café 58 Roadrunner Kitchen 64 ROC Restaurant 74 Romano's Macaroni Grill 74 Roof Top Grill 74 Roosters 56 Rootie's Sports Bar 68 Roots 71 Royal's Hot Chicken 56 Rubbie's Southside Grill 63 Rubbin' Butts BBQ 63 Ruby Tuesday 60 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 53 Ruth's Chris Steakhouse 54 Rye 50 Upscale Casual S Bar 60 Sabor Latino 77 Safai Coffee 81 Safai Coffee 81 Safari Café & International Kitchen 70 Saffron's 76 Safier Mediterranean Deli 76 Saint's 68 Sake Blue 71 Sakura Blue 71 Sala Thai 72 Sal's Pizza & Wings 61 Salsarita's Fresh Cantina 79 Sam's Food & Spirits 60 Sam's Gyro 76 Sam's Seafood & Grill 53 Samurai 71 Sanag Coffee 81 Sanag II Restaurant 70 Sandi's Kitchen 65 Sante Fe Grill 79 Sapporo Japanese Grill 71 Sarang 72 Sarino 74 Savannah Restaurant 56 Scarlet's Bakery 81 Scene 66 Schlotzky's Deli 64 Scooter's Triple B's 68 Sea Fresh Seafood 53 Seafood Lady 73 Seeds & Greens Deli 64 Selena's At Willow Lake Tavern 73 Señor Iguana's 79 Senora Arepa 77 Sergio's World Beers 68 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 48 Shack In The Back BBQ 63 Shady Lane Café 58 Shahar Café 58 Shalimar Indian 76 Shark's Seafood 53 Shenanigan's Irish Grille 74 Shine's Diner 66 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 76 Shirley Mae's Café 66 Shogun 71 Shoney's 60 ShopBar 68 Shreeji Indian Vegetarian 76 Sichuan Garden 71 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 61 Sidebar 52 The Silly Axe Café 58 The Silver Dollar 52 75 Silvio's Italian Restaurant Simple Greek 76 Simply Thai 72 Sir Dano's Pizza Parlor 61 Sister Bean's 81 Six Forks Burger Co. 56 Skyline Chili 60 Smashburger 56 Smokey Bones BBQ 63 SnoWhat 81 Sol Aztecas 79 Somewhere Louisville 52 SOU! Southen Kitchen & Bar 52 Soul Food Dining 66 Soupy's 64 Southern Express 66 Southern Hospitality 66 Spaghetti Shop 75 Spinelli's Pizzeria 62 The Sporting News Grill 68 The Sports & Social Club 68 Spring St. Bar & Grill 68 The Standard Plate & Pour 55 Star Sushi 71 Starbucks Coffee 81 Starlight Café 58 Starlight Coffee Co. 81 Starving Artist Café 58 State Donuts 81 Steak & Bourbon 54 Steak 'n Shake 56 Steel City Pops 81 Stevens & Stevens Deli 64 Stoney River 54 Storming Crab 73 Stricker's Café 58 Sub Station II 64
MAP #
African 4 Cafes 1 Asian / Chinese 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2,3,13,14 Deli / Sandwich 1,5,14,15 Casual Dining 3 Burgers / Chicken 13 Burgers / Chicken 2,5,6,8,11,12 Asian / Japanese 2 Mexican 2 Mexican 16 Cafes 2 Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,14 Cafes 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Seafood 3,13,15 Burgers / Chicken 3,8,15 Asian / Chinese 4 Burgers / Chicken 13 Microbreweries 16 Steakhouse 1 Asian / Korean 14 Asian / Chinese 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Upscale Casual 7 Barbecue 7 Cafes 16 Deli / Sandwich 14 European / Italian 2 European / Italian 5 Cuban / Caribbean 1,9 Burgers / Chicken 5,8,11,12,13,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 Asian / Japanese 2 Burgers / Chicken 1,6 Barbecue 13 Barbecue 14 Casual Dining 6 Seafood 5 Steakhouse 3 1 Casual Dining 12 Latin American 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 African 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Thai 11 Pizza 5 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,5 Casual Dining 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Seafood 13 Asian / Japanese 5 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 African 13 Diner / Home Style 12 Mexican 13 Asian / Japanese 2 Asian / Korean 2 European / Italian 13 Burgers / Chicken 13 Desserts / Bakery 1,3,13 Southern / Soul Food 1 Deli / Sandwich 8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6 Seafood 11 Cajun / Creole 1,13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Cajun / Creole 5 Mexican 3,11,13,15 Latin American 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 13 Cafes 7 Cafes 2 Indian 6 Seafood 4 European / Irish 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2,5,7,8,13 Southern / Soul Food 1 Asian / Japanese 6,8 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Indian 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Pizza 1,11 Bistro / New American 1 Cafes 2 Bistro / New American 2 European / Italian 3 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Asian / Thai 3,5 Pizza 15 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Burgers / Chicken 13 Casual Dining 2,3,6,14 Burgers / Chicken 1,5,13 Barbecue 6 Desserts / Bakery 13 Mexican 2,11 Bistro / New American 2 Bistro / New American 6 Southern / Soul Food 13 Deli / Sandwich 4 Southern / Soul Food 13 Southern / Soul Food 9 European / Italian 14 Pizza 1,2,3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Gastropub 14 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses [36] Cafes 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Cafes 5 Desserts / Bakery 8 Steakhouse 5 Burgers / Chicken 13,15 Desserts / Bakery 2,3 Deli / Sandwich 2 Steakhouse 8 Cajun / Creole 15 Cafes 16 Deli / Sandwich 13
Guide Index_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Layout 1 3/2/20 2:13 AM Page 47
RESTAURANT
Sue's Touch of Country Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sunergos Coffee SuperChefs Superior Market & Deli Sushi Master Sway Sweet Frog Sweet Peaches Sweet Peaches 2 Roll Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets By Morgan Swizzle Taco Choza Taco City Taco Tico Taj Palace Tandoori Fusion TanThai Restaurant Taqueria Don Juan Taqueria La Mexicana Tavern On Fourth Taylor's Cajun Meat Co. Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Texas Roadhouse TGI Friday's Thai Café Thai Noodles That's My Dog The Ainsworth The Back Door The Bard's Town The Block Gourmet Deli The Café The Celtic Pig The Champagnery The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The Chicken Box The ChillBurger The Corner The Cozy Kitchen The Eagle The Earl The Early Edition The Fat Lamb The Fudgery The Goat The Hub Louisville The Library The Pearl The Piazza The Pine Room The Post The Spot The Sword & the Scone The Table The Water Company The Wright House Bar B Q + Eatery Thelma's Deli Tikka House Tim Tam Tavern Time 4 Thai Tin Roof Toast on Market ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tomo Japanese Restaurant Tony Impellizzeri's Toonerville Deli Topp't Pizza & Chopped Salad Town Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tsubaki Sushi & Bar Tucker's Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Twig & Leaf Union 15 Uptown Café Varanese Verbena Café V-Grits Vibes Restaurant & Ultra Lounge Vic's Café Victoria Mexican Restaurant Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Ville Chicken and Seafood Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen Vincenzo's Vint Coffee Volare W.W. Cousin's Wagner's Pharmacy Walker's Exchange Way Cool Café Wei Wei Chinese Express West Point Pizza Which Wich? Whiskey Dry Wick's Pizza Wild Dog Rose Tea Boutique Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion Williams Bakery Wiltshire at Logan Street Market Wiltshire at the Speed Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery and Café The Wing Zone Wingstop World of Beer Yafa Café Yamato Japanese Steak House Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching Yoki Buffet You-Carryout-A Yummy China Yummy Pollo Zanzabar Za's Pizza Zaxby's Zeggz Amazing Eggs Ziba's Bistro Zoe's Kitchen Zombie Taco Zoup!
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 66 81 81 60 64 72 50 81 64 64 81 81 81 48 79 79 79 76 76 72 79 79 68 73 76 71 54 60 72 72 64 50 68 69 64 58 74 52 58 58 56 56 62 65 56 68 58 52 81 68 52 68 68 60 52 62 60 81 58 68 63 64 76 68 72 68 60 72 72 72 62 64 62 75 68 72 60 79 75 60 62 50 50 58 66 66 58 79 72 52 54 64 49 81 75 56 65 50 58 71 62 64 56 62 81 58 72 81 58 52 50 58 56 56 55 76 72 71 79 71 71 71 71 77 68 62 56 58 70 76 79 64
MAP #
Southern / Soul Food 12 Desserts / Bakery 11 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,13 Casual Dining 2 Deli / Sandwich 1 Asian / Japanese 8 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts / Bakery 15 Deli / Sandwich 9 Deli / Sandwich 9 Desserts / Bakery 14 Desserts / Bakery 2 Desserts / Bakery 16 Fine Dining 1 Mexican 3 Mexican 2 Mexican 12 Indian 8 Indian 8 Asian / Thai 14 Mexican 16 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Cajun / Creole 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3,5 Asian / Chinese 8 Steakhouse 2,5,12,13,15 Casual Dining 1 Asian / Thai 7 Asian / Thai 13 Deli / Sandwich 16 Upscale Casual 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Entertainment Dining 2 Deli / Sandwich 5 Cafes 1 European / Irish 1 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 3 Cafes 3 Burgers / Chicken 12 Burgers / Chicken 15 Pizza 8 Diner / Home Style 2 Burgers / Chicken 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Cafes 16 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Bistro / New American 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Casual Dining 14 Bistro / New American 10 Pizza 13 Casual Dining 6 Coffee / Tea Houses 6 Cafes 9 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Barbecue 14 Deli / Sandwich 1 Indian 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Asian / Thai 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Casual Dining 1,14 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Japanese 7 Asian / Japanese 14 Pizza 14 Deli / Sandwich 1 Pizza 13,14 European / Italian 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Japanese 5 Casual Dining 14 Southwest / Tex Mex [8] European / Italian 13 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 2,13 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Cafes 8 Southern / Soul Food 2 Southern / Soul Food 1 Cafes 14 Mexican 4 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Bistro / New American 5 Seafood 13 Deli / Sandwich 5 Fine Dining 1,4 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 3 Diner / Home Style 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 1 Asian / Chinese 1 Pizza 12 Deli / Sandwich 6,8,14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Pizza 2,4,6,14 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 1,3,5,15 Asian / Japanese 2 Desserts / Bakery 15 Cafes 1 Bistro / New American 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 2 Burgers / Chicken 4,13 Burgers / Chicken 6,12 Gastropub 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Asian / Japanese 14 Asian / Chinese 5 Mexican 14 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 11 Latin American 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 2 Burgers / Chicken 5,12,13,14,16 Cafes 5 African 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 Mexican 1 Deli / Sandwich 1
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 47
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 48
GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:
$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser
h = Late Night
B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
p = Full Bar
OPEN TILL/PAST 11 PM
f e
= Outdoor Dining = Live Music
ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.
211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 8969570. 211 Clover Lane has been tucked away across the railroad tracks in St. Matthews, in the corner of a little cluster of upscale shops since 1992. Those who know how to find it enjoy drinks in a quiet elegant lounge and dine off seasonal menus. Owner Andrew Smith and his staff keep 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables. $$$$ Br L D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Since taking over this Old Louisville landmark restaurant in 2004,
48 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
Edward Lee has become a Food TV fixture and opened new restaurants. Kevin Ashworth is the Executive Chef at this perennial top table and continues the adventurous prix-fixe menu. The Wednesday a la carte nights allow sampling the menu at a more modest price point. $$$$ D pf BARN8 10500 W. US Hwy 42, 889-1835. The newest project of Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson is to develop their Hermitage Farm as an agro-tourism destination. Building number 8 of the historic thoroughbred stable (where Dark Star, who defeated Northern Dancer in the 1953, was foaled) is now a restaurant open to the public. Diners can choose to dine at private tables (in the stalls) or rent the Hayloft for parties up to 200. Executive Chef Alison Settle’s eclectic menu features heirloom, local and seasonal ingredients drawn heavily from the farm’s extensive gardens. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant and understated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments is overseen by Chef Allen Sims, who has kept long-standing favorites like the crispy fish and spicy Cantonese noodles but has put his own stamp on the menu with items like fried chicken livers, beet and pear salad, short ribs Wellington and prosciutto-wrapped lamb chops. Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano during dinner. $$$ L D hpfe ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 5831234. Executive Chef James Adams oversees the formal dining room in one of downtown’s historic hotels. The Hot Brown is still on the menu, but new dishes tempt visitors and old timers: roasted cauliflower with quinoa and mushrooms, crispy skin duck and a vegetarian harvest plate. The chef’s table in the kitchen is still a great place for a special party. $$$ D p JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight but the food is
consistently excellent. Chef Duncan Williams has continued classic menu items that regulars love (crab cakes, shrimp and grits) and worked in newer items (braised pork shank, squash risotto). $$$$ L D hpe LA CHASSE 1359 Bardstown Rd., 822-3963. Chef Kristina Dyer joins front-of-the-house man Isaac Fox in creating the ambience of a fine European country inn in the heart of the Highlands. The frequently-changing menu always includes some game dishes (rabbit, wild boar), harder-to-find items like sweetbreads and octopus, and unusual salads. $$$$ D hp LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution since 1988 under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, Lilly’s continues to be as fresh as the locallysourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Owner Edward Lee has made the downstairs space at Actors Theatre a dining destination. The menu blends Asian and Southern influences (smoked chicken wings, bibimpap, black BBQ pork shoulder, ramen noodles) and has received national attention. $$$ D p SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to its namesake, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf SWIZZLE 140 N. Fourth St. (The Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House replaces Rivue, its 25th floor restaurant, with Swizzle, a retro-meets-modern redesigned room with a menu focused on steaks, chops and sustainable seafood served up from the open-concept exhibition kitchen in the
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 49
middle of the restaurant, allowing diners to watch the action. The retro beverage program will focus on classic cocktails, with seasonal specials. $$$$ D p VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe
8UP ELEVATED DRINKERY AND KITCHEN 350 W. Chestnut St. (Hilton Garden Inn), 631-4180. This rooftop restaurant and bar above the hotel at the corner of Fourth and Chestnut has three elegant areas - an upscale casual dining room, the bar with a separate kitchen and menu, and an expansive outdoor patio that overlooks downtown. The bar kitchen’s two wood-fired ovens offer small plates to nibble while sipping; the main kitchen serves fine dinners. $$$ B D hpf BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Long-time restaurateur Rick Dissell’s comfortable, casual restaurant in the Prospect Center continues to please regulars and to find new fans. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf BOURBON RAW 446 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 5689009. This bar and restaurant in Fourth Street Live! features a raw seafood bar, an eclectic Southern menu, special Bourbon dinners and more than 85 Bourbons. The classy interior includes a 57-foot marble bar top, and an outdoor patio area. $$$ Br L D hp BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRENDON’S CATCH 23 505 S. Fourth St. (Embassy Suites), 909-3323. This restaurant inside Embassy Suites hotel has a strong seafood focus: “wild caught” Hawaiian tuna, king crab, Chilean sea bass, fresh oysters, black grouper, and the famous Brendon’s seafood tower. The setting is a relaxed but elegant atmosphere; other choices include steak and Low Country cuisine. $$$ D hp BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now, with three venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. $$ Br L D hpf CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 491-1184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail. Chef Raquel Romero’s eclectic menu offers Kentucky burgoo, Kentucky Kobb salad and several dishes (Buffalo Trace Reuben, Makers Mark ribs) that incorporate some of the bar’s 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the Californiabased chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind of restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D hpf DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Decca’s handsomely redone 19th-century building, its serene garden, its classy basement bar and breezy second-floor eating balcony are all fun. But Chef Annie Pettry’s inventive, locally-sourced menu combined with the restaurant’s wine program make it a classy place to dine. $$$$ D hpfe
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 49
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 50
DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp
and the charred octopus, favorites from Proof’s start, even as he has put his own stamp on the menu with dishes such as chicken fried pork cheeks, hearth-roasted spaghetti squash and extensive charcuterie choices. The bar remains one of the hippest in town. $$$ B Br L D hpf
EQUUS & JACK'S RESTAURANT | LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. A Louisville institution since 1985 under the ownership of the late culinary icon Dean Corbett, Jared Matthews now runs both the restaurant and Jack’s Lounge. Matthews has made some physical updates, but has striven to keep the restaurant’s and the lounge’s classic upscale casual atmosphere and approachable menu. The signature mushroom fumé remains, along with satisfying entrées like Yankee pot roast, fried chicken with sawmilll gravy and Parmesan-crusted sea bass. $$$ D p
RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. John Varanese’s river-side restaurant complex is getting more complex as he begins renovations on the upper floor to create new dining and party spaces. The elegant reimagining of the former boat dealership building befits the always interesting seafood dishes inspired by Nawlins and Charleston, where Varanese began his career. There’s an extensive raw bar, too, and dockside service for boaters. $$$$ Br L D hpf
FORK & BARREL 2244 Frankfort Ave., 907-3675. Chef/owner Geoffrey Heyde serves upscale modern American cuisine in upper Clifton, with an emphasis on local ingredients, craft cocktails and southern hospitality. Look for pork shank with roasted garlic grits, buttermilk-soaked and cornmeal dusted chicken livers and chocolate bourbon truffles. $$$ D hp HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. This true farm-totable restaurant celebrates its local suppliers with photo murals on the walls. Chef Loreal Gavin’s seasonal menus, using ingredients sourced within a 100-mile radius are tweaked monthly, but you can always find the buttermilk fried chicken, several seasonal pastas and fish from local waters. $$$ Br D hpf J. ALEXANDER’S REDLANDS GRILL 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashvillebased chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. A Prospect mainstay since 1994, J. Harrod’s substantial menu—grilled steaks and chops, pasta, seafood, fried green tomatoes and chicken livers with gravy—is served with aplomb in a quiet, comfortable dining room. Comfort food Sundays and Wednesday Italian Nights brings out special dishes. $$$ D p MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Going to a show downtown? Chow down first at Marketplace. The elegant decor, whether at the circular bar, in the serene dining room, or any of the three outdoor spaces will get you in the mood, and the seasonal Italian-influenced southern cuisine will get you to the curtain well-fed indeed. $$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. If you have pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s, The Melting Pot is for you. If you can melt it and dip things in it, it’s probably on the menu. $$$ D hp MESH 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 632-4421. The lush modern building and the casual/elegant menu have made a strong presence in the neighborhood. The cosmopolitan menu includes kung pao calamari, beet salad, Amish chicken and mushroom strudel, all served in an atmosphere of “contemporary elegance and comfort.” $$$ Br L D pf NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 423-5822. An eclectic mix of California-inspired fusion dishes served in a clean, crisp, informally classy atmosphere have made Napa a longtime favorite. Chef Seth Butkus’s lunch offerings range from smoked salmon wontons to Vietnamese salad. The lovely patio makes for lazy summer dining on baked goat cheese, vegetable pad Thai or smoked pork shank. $$$ Br L D hpf OLD STONE INN AND TAVERN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY. (502) 722-8200. This century-old restaurant has taken on renewed popularity and cachet under the ownership of Churchill Downs Executive Chef David Danielson, whose team appreciates its history as much as he does. His menu and service strive to connect the past with the present. Dine in the main rooms, the bar or on the impressive patio. $$$ Br L pf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 217-6360. Executive Chef Jonathan Searle has kept the bison burger 50 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. New York hip meets Kentucky farm produce and meats, resulting in a daily menu focused on what is freshest. Dishes show unpretentious flair, served in a sleek East Market Street ambiance. $$ D hpf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 581-1234. The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth Street in good weather and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken, cooked to order, quickly became a signature dish. $$$$ D pf THE AINSWORTH 3929 Shelbyville Rd. The owners of Sullivan’s in St. Matthews have bought into the Ainsworth chain, a high-concept sports bar redecorated with upscale rustic décor: barn wood walls, leather booths and televisions set in antique picture frames. The menu features fancierthan-usual bar food. $$$$ Br L D pf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. The Uptown has been an excellent spot for lunch and bistro-style dinners for so long that people seem to take it for granted. Those in the know find it an excellent value, for its Highlands location and sophisticated ambience, as well as the eclectic modern menu that includes seasonal small plate selections by longtime chef Matt Weber. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese’s signature restaurant (he has River House and Levee too) has a slate-backed interior waterfall and a folding front wall that opens in good weather. The lively, international seasonal menu is buttressed by frequent special wine, whiskey or beer dinners. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.) WALKER’S EXCHANGE 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House Hotel), 272-1834. The Galt House’s Kentucky-style brasserie, located in the West Tower, is styled after a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name. The menu juxtaposes familiar French and American dishes — including classic Southern-style comforts like short rib hand pies and shrimp po-boys. $$$$ B Br L D hp WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 589-5224. Understated elegance and creative dishes from Chef Rory O’Connell characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish. Open Thur.-Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf
502 BAR & BISTRO 10401 Meeting Pl., 742-4772. This sleek, contemporary spot in Norton Commons, has lots of TVs, but the food is several notches above the norm of sports bars. Try Chef Ming Pu’s charred broccoli soup, brown butter sage gnocchi or cauliflower steak. A full bar and signature cocktails, and brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. $$ Br D hpf ALEX&NDER 1121 E. Washington St., 561-0267. Dallas McGarity, owner of The Fat Lamb and Portage House, oversees the menu at the rooftop bar at Copper & Kings Distillery. Dinner is Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays,
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 51
and brunch and dinner Saturday and Sunday. McGarity’s menu is, in his own words, “elegantly simple without being intimidating, and that can complement the outstanding drinks served in Alex&nder.” $$ Br D pfe ANOOSH BISTRO 4864 Brownsboro Rd., 690-6585. Anoosh Shariat’s elegant Brownsboro Center space has an eclectic lunch and dinner menu that includes trout provençal, coconut curry tofu, grilled romaine salad, and house-made pastas and risottos. $$ L D p BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. Located in an historic Clifton building, Bourbons Bistro stocks a selection of more than 130 bourbons, including a barrel selection program. Chef Jereme McFarland’s bourboninspired, seasonally-influenced menu recently has featured tuna poke tacos, cacio e pepe pasta and bourbon bread pudding. $$$ D pf BRIDGE & BARREL 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 206-7170. Bridge & Barrel, offering upscale Southern comfort foods like fried green tomatoes, black-eyed pea hummus, smoked pork shoulder sandwiches, fried chicken and catfish platters. Enjoy it all with sweeping views of the Ohio River and the Louisville skyline. $$ L D pfe BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY 1076 E. Washington St., 7428315. Bobby Benjamin’s restaurant offers house-made pasta and charcuterie, a chef’s table near the kitchen, and dishes such as whole rotisserie chicken and the Grocery steak, a bone-in, 55-day dry-aged ribeye served with black truffle béarnaise. An upstairs entertainment space, Lola, has intimate seating and its own kitchen for late-night noshing. $$$ Br L D hp CUVÉE WINE TABLE 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 242-5200. Scott Harper and others from the Bristol Bar & Grille organization have made this wine bar and café in the East End a fine stop for after work. Drop in to explore Master Sommelier Harper’s adventurous wine list with tasting pours and small plates of charcuterie, cheeses, salads and snacks from the kitchen. Look for regular casual classes organized on various wine themes. $$ L D hpf DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Owner Marshall Grissom offers breakfast, lunch and dinner in the comfortable, brick-walled downtown space. Get your day going with eggs, omelets or bread pudding French toast. Lunch on salads, sandwiches or burgers or choose a dinner entrée any time of the day or night. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informal Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EGGS OVER FRANKFORT 2712 Frankfort Ave., 709-4452. Husband and wife team Jackson and Cortney Nave have creatively refurbished this Crescent Hill space into a “very traditional” breakfast spot. Its menu includes omelets, eggs Benedict, waffles and oatmeal, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. $ B Br L GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a wood-fired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. One of the more unusual restaurant spaces in town, Hammerheads is also one of the hippest. Adam Burress and Chase Murcerino, who share owner and chef duties, fire up their BBQ smoker streetside, and fans far and wide flock to the semi-basement space on the edge of Germantown to partake of pulled pork and
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020
51
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 52
beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches, pork belly BLTs and soft shell crab tacos. $ D h
are available to accompany cheese and charcuterie boards, along with desserts. $ L D hpf
HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe
OSTRA 1758 Frankfort Ave., 915-0160. Adam Burress (Game, Hammerheads, Migo) and partners have taken over the funky Barcode 1758 space in Clifton, serving a menu focused on sustainable food. The seasonal menu includes shellfish, rabbit, locally-sourced poultry and even some unusual sustainable foods, like crickets in the brownies. $$ D pf
HEARTH ON MELLWOOD 1765 Mellwood Ave., 365-2239 The owners of Chik’n & Mi have taken over the classy historic building that recently housed Bistro 1860. Chef Jason McCollum’s experimental menu offers "modern, new American food with international influences,” focused on shareable plates such as oysters, lamb tartare and vegetablecentric seasonal dishes, served in a space that captures the spirit of an airy coastal, Southern home. $$$ D pf
P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 3277707. This Arizona-based, Chinese-themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinese-style dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf
HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of small plates and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $$ L D he
SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 384-1600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft
VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 7081850. In the heart of Anchorage is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf
LOU LOU FOOD + DRINK 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. Jared Matthews, who also operates Equus and Jack’s Lounge, continues the Café Lou Lou tradition of Nawlins-style Cajun food, but Chef Christian Garay has added other casual fare including pizza, pastas and calzones. $$ Br L D hp LOUVINO 1606 Bardstown Rd., 365-1921, 11400 Main St., 742-1456. These two wine bars have become so popular that owners Chad and Lauren Coulter have opened outlets in Cincinnati and Indianapolis. The seasonal shareable small plates menu and clever organization of the wine list make this a prime spot for a night out with friends. A myriad of wines by the glass are available fresh from their winedispensing cruvinet system. $$ Br D pfe
WILTSHIRE AT THE SPEED 2035 S. Third St., 634-2976. Susan Hershberg and her team led by Chef Reed Johnson bring “artfully inspired, creative and seasonal” breakfast and luncheon fare to the Speed Museum. Open at 10 a.m. for pastries, croissants, coffee and tea, lunch is served until 3 p.m. with soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees such as buckwheat noodle salad with seared salmon. A grab-and-go counter is open until 5 p.m. And now a limited dinner menu is served Fridays when the museum is open until 8 p.m. $$ B Br L pf
MERLE’S WHISKEY KITCHEN 122 W. Main St., 290-8888. Tony Palombino’s popular Whiskey Row food and music spot across from the KFC Yum! Center offers live music on a regular basis and a menu that emphasizes tacos and Southern fried chicken. Sides offered include sweet potato casserole, long-cooked green beans and a candied bacon appetizer. 100 bourbons are currently on offer, including handpicked private barrels from Buffalo Trace, Maker’s Mark, Wild Turkey and others. $ L D hpe
NOUVELLE BAR & BOTTLE 214 S. Clay St., 631-9428. This French-style wine bar sells 40+ wines by the glass (in 3-, 6or 9-ounce pours) and 200 to 300 wines by the bottle, focusing on affordable, interesting wines. A selection of beers, ciders, classic cocktails, bourbons and scotches also 52 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
THE FAT LAMB 2011 Grinstead Dr., 409-7499. The first of Chef/owner Dallas McGarity’s dining properties, this comfortable, classy Highlands bistro serves lunch and dinner, focusing on small plates such as onion and chive hushpuppies, lamb meatballs, curry-seared salmon, tandoori-seared scallops and ricotta ghnocchi with truffled mushroom cream. $$ L D hpf
THE PINE ROOM 6325 River Rd., 528-4422. Augusta Holland is behind the modern incarnation of this classic Prospect restaurant, in the space that most recently was Cast Iron Steakhouse. Start with, perhaps, the chicken liver lettuce wraps, or sweet potato falafel. Then go for the blackened pork chop or the grain bowl. The buttermilk fried chicken is a dining favorite. $$$ Br D hpfe
LEVEE AT RIVER HOUSE 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. Levee is the more casual, family-oriented component to River House, which now includes a covered patio. Small plates and other light eats are all priced under $15. The nightly live music program includes an eclectic mix of jazz, blues, salsa and even “beachy music.” And now the multi-million dollar renovation of the upstairs into an event space called Savor is complete too. $$ D hpfe
NOOSH NOSH 4816 Brownsboro Ctr., 205-2888. Anoosh Shariat’s second restaurant in the Brownsboro Center is a family-style eatery centered around a rustic stone oven in an open kitchen. Breakfast offers several omelet choices, tikka eggs and tofu florentine. For lunch or dinner, share smoked salmon bruschetta, Nosh nachos or Thai-style mussels, pastas, flatbreads or sandwiches. $$$ B Br L D pf
THE CHAMPAGNERY AT ARCHITYPE GALLERY 1764 Frankfort Ave., 896-8050. This Clifton business hosts art shows and now also has a full bar with a focus on more than 120 Champagnes and sparkling wines plus a menu of light bites – oysters, caviar, charcuterie, cheeses, fruit and desserts. $$$ D hp
THE HUB LOUISVILLE 2235 Frankfort Ave., 777-1505. Clifton has taken to this sprawling modern restaurant, cocktail bar and adult rec center with gusto. The Southerninspired small plates menu and its specials board of rotating entrees pleases multiple tastes. The bar boasts a big rum and tequila selection, with alcoholic floats a specialty. The lively patio is packed in good weather. $$ D hpfe
LA CHANDELEUR 304 W. Woodlawn Ave. The food truck offering a variety of crepes has found a home in Beechmont. The menu has expanded to include up to 25 items, including the popular vegetarian black bean burger crêpe. $$ B Br L
NEIGHBORHOOD SERVICES 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. This casual eating option in the Omni hotel serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and offers relaxed indoor and outdoor dining. Enter from the hotel or street. $$$ B L D pf
restaurants around town (Seviche, 8UP, Pine Room) has his own place, where he’s highlighting his mixed Southern American and Korean family food heritage. Locally sourced ingredients are elements in dishes like braised pork belly, chicken and waffles, and he emphasizes sustainable seafoods. $$$$ D p
cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. In this Clifton honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music, all on vinyl, is the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has happy fans crowding in most nights. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no SOMEWHERE LOUISVILLE 1135 Bardstown Rd., 552-6942. Now you can dine and have some cocktails, and then slide right next door to Nowhere for late-night fun and games. The Southern-inspired menu includes beer cheese and pretzels, smoked wings, buttermilk fried chicken and 3 varieties of flatbreads. $$ D hpfe SOU! SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR 9980 Linn Station Rd., 614-6499. Chef James Moran, veteran of several upscale
BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4666. This franchise concept from the Florida-based Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CAPTAIN VILLE 2001 Seventh Street Rd., 996-7426. The menu of this Algonquin neighborhood fish house includes perch, cod, salmon and catfish, the best seller. There are crab cakes, too, and sides of fried green tomatoes, fried okra and hush puppies. $ L D h CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS RIVERSIDE GRILLE 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CATFISH HAVEN PAY LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 53
home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their pay-to-fish lake. $$ LDf CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D CUNNINGHAM’S CREEKSIDE 6301 Upper River Rd., 2283625. One of the longest-lived restaurants in the city, Cunningham’s has had several incarnations since 1870, and now pulls in old timers and new fans at its Harrod’s Creek location. There you can find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this long-time favorite. $ Br L D hpf THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D pf THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. This fried-fish eatery has been popular in the St. Matthews neighborhood since 1983. The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to find. Its oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f HOOKED ON FRANKFORT 3202 Frankfort Ave., 690-9951. The owners of Frankfort Ave Beer Depot now operate this fish house two doors away. The menu features fried fish
sandwiches, fish tacos, baskets of shrimp or oysters or frog legs. Clam/conch chowder and seafood gumbo, too, or mac and cheese and grilled cheese sandwiches for those who can’t do fish. $$ L D hp HUNGRY PELICAN 5412 Bardstown Rd., 239-7145. The sole remaining representative of a quite popular chain still keeps up the tradition. The cooks and servers are old-timers who understand the intricacies of getting perfectly fried seafood to customers in timely fashion. Generously-filled rolled oysters, too. $$ L D pf JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made Kingfish a popular favorite for many years. Aficionados of rolled oysters and frog legs can find both here, as well as a large selection of fried and broiled seafood, as dinners and sandwiches. Both locations boast river views. $$ L D hpfe MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. This popular riverside restaurant has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 4121818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer, with
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
no frills, this Jeffersontown tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe PIER 17 CAJUN SEAFOOD 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9857. The former Jason’s Deli building on the Jeffersontown side of Hurstbourne is the area’s first introduction to the Vietnamese-Cajun fusion concept of Asian-spiced seafood boils which has been rolling northward from the Texas-Louisiana coast. $$$ L D pf RED LOBSTER 4639 Outer Loop, 964-9647, 986 Breckenridge Ln., 899-3334, 951 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-0444. Consistent quality and moderate prices have maintained this seafood chain’s popularity in the casual dining category since its founding more than fifty years ago. Periodic promotions please repeat customers and draw new folks into the fold. $$$ L D hpf RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D pf SAM'S SEAFOOD & GRILL 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 9666940. The choices here include jack salmon, frog legs, grouper and red snapper, as well as catfish, tilapia and shrimp. The fish-averse can fill up on chicken wings or gizzards or a range of meat-filled sandwiches. $$ L D SEA FRESH SEAFOOD 8129 Bardstown Rd., 409-5005. This Fern Creek neighborhood restaurant is hooking fans lured by its cooked-to-order fish, shrimp, catfish, oysters, grilled salmon and chicken. The fried green tomatoes starter merits special mention. $$ L D SHARK’S SEAFOOD 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 450-5775. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish - white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon - to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. $ L D h
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 53
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 54
VILLE CHICKEN AND SEAFOOD 4322 Poplar Level Rd., 919-8994. The name certainly reveals the focus of this wellkept little neighborhood spot that has re-worked an old Arby’s building. There are crawfish and crab legs, too, corn on the cob and very commendable real Southern sweet tea. $$ L D
BOB'S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The signature restaurant located off the lobby in the Omni Hotel offers refined service and a decor focused on American thoroughbred racing. A steak menu offers seven prime selections, from ribeye to filet to 28-oz. porterhouse. Seafood, too (crab cakes, scampi, lobster tails), and sumptuous desserts. $$$$ D p BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 290-8220. This Knoxville-based company’s first satellite location has been a downtown hit. A churrascaria works like this: You choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf BROOKLYN & THE BUTCHER 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN. 590-2646. Ian Hall of The Exchange Pub + Kitchen opened this steakhouse in a renovated historic hotel with lots of cool touches: black and white tiles on floor and walls, an open kitchen and a vintage bar counter from an old local Woolworth’s store. The bar program emphasizes bourbon, Scotch and craft beers. The menu includes fresh seafood, small plates and lots of beef — New York strip, bone-in ribeye, flat iron steaks — all as locally sourced as possible. $$$ D pf CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader also operates this riverside eatery where the kitchen cooks steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices. The ambience is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574. These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D hp EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. Located on the ground floor of the Starks Building is one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu encompasses high end steaks, well-prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866-676-7463. After you hit it big at the tables, Binion’s has everything a high roller craves. Start with oysters Rockefeller or shrimp cocktail, French onion soup or crab bisque. Then, choose Chilean sea bass, lobster tail, rack of lamb or a choice of prime steak, including Wagyu tenderloin. $$$$ D p JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 584-0102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ L D hpe LE MOO 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. Kevin Grangier of Village Anchor & Pub in Anchorage has re-imagined the space that was for decades KT’s, creating a new interior design he calls “Paris brothel meets vintage warehouse,” a lively and amusing space with lots of steel, neon and velvet, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. The Euro-eclectic menu has an emphasis on steaks, of course, but the drag-themed brunch has gained many fans. $$ Br L D hpfe 54 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashvillebased chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 9699790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp MATT WINN STEAKHOUSE 700 Central Ave. (Churchill Downs) 636-4450. Churchill Downs’ Executive Chef David Danielson, with Chef Jeff Daley at his side, plans to open a classic premium steakhouse on Millionaire’s Row. This new restaurant, named for Col. Matt Winn, one of the most influential figures in the history of thorougbred racing, will be open all year long, not just during the racing meets. $$$$ D pf MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This below-ground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895-4329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 4264329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 896-9234. A local favorite for more than 60 years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steakhouses in town. $$$$ D pf
West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp
21ST AMENDMENT TAVERN 1481 S. Shelby St., 654-7221. The former Club 21 has been restored and re-imagined as a Schitzelburg neighborhood bar with a food menu that is both Kentucky-centric and a nod to long-missing GermanAmerican food. In addition to a selection of burgers, look for the baloney burger, a Neighborhood Nosh meat board with braunschweiger and pickled eggs and other retro bar favorites. $$ L D hpf CORNER 102 W. Main St., 583-1888. Corner is the bar and restaurant attached to the chic, contemporary Aloft Hotel downtown. The emphasis here is on the bar, with a wine and cocktail menu longer and more creative than the food side. Still, there are solid bar munchies, from dips and deviled eggs to sandwiches, salads and tacos. $$ B D pf CRESCENT HILL CRAFT HOUSE 2636 Frankfort Ave., 8959400. This beer pub serves only locally-produced beers, and the menu, overseen by Chef Tim Smith, is focused on local food sources. You’ll find everything from poutine and boiled peanut hummus to vegan Reubens, grilled cauliflower steak and flat iron steak and eggs. There is live music and outdoor dining in season. $$ Br L D hpf DISTRICT 6 3930 Shelbyville Rd., 873-5561. Named after the veteran restaurant owners’, the Thai family’s, native district in Saigon, District 6 features traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on their mother Nga’s recipes, updated with modern influences. Look for items like the bone-in short rib pho, spicy fried hot wings, beef lettuce wraps, red curry chicken and Vietnamese spicy street corn, as well as noodle bowls — and whole crispy fried fish. $$ L D p
PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 9646117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D
DOC'S BOURBON ROOM 129 W. Main St., 742-2449. Doc Crow’s has taken over the space next door to create what they say is “the nation's biggest whiskey bar.” It carries thousands of Bourbons and other whiskeys, served as flights, tastes, pours and cocktails. Menu items include beef tartare, lamb flatbread, fingerling poutine and fresh-baked pretzels. A coffee bar is open early in the morning. $$$ D hp
REPEAL OAK-FIRED STEAKHOUSE 101 W. Main St. (Hotel Distil), 716-7372. The main restaurant at the new Hotel Distil on Whiskey Row fires the steaks over used bourbon barrel staves. If steak isn’t your dish, check out the sole meunière, the truffled spaghetti, the well-stocked raw bar, or grab a blue crab omelet at lunch. As you might expect, the spirits list is deep. $$$$ B Br L D pe
DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR & RESTAURANT 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hole stocks 150-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. Well-priced bar food like biscuit sandwiches, tacos and Frito Pie make for a quick, satisfying lunch. Bluegrass music several times a week too. $$ L D pfe
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 4790026. The long-standing Louisville location of this New Orleans-based international chain is perched atop the 16floor Kaden Tower. Ruth’s Chris serves excellent steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe
EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building such a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu that he has had to expand his dining room and patio. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes house-made ginger ale. $$ L D hpfe
STEAK & BOURBON 1321 Herr Ln., 708-2196. Ole Restaurant Group has branched out with this affordablypriced premium steakhouse. In addition to the signature 24 oz. cowboy cut Angus ribeye (aged a minimum of 30 days) the menu offers pan-roasted chicken, grilled Verlasso salmon, steak & cheese hand pies, Maryland-style crab cakes and carrot cake with bourbon caramel icing. Try the House Punch or choose from over 100 bourbons, including a reserve list. $$$ L D pf STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ Br D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 4480705, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600, 13321 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0085, 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 897-5005. The spirit of the
FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list bring in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D hf GALAXIE 732 E. Market St., 690-6565. The guys behind RYE just down the street now have the Green Building space for a bar dedicated to moderately priced drinks ($7 cocktails are what they are shooting for) and a bar menu of “internationalinspired street food,” which was described as “easy to take with you,” so you can nosh as you imbibe. $$ L D hpf GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 454-7075. In the house behind the Holy Grale is Gralehaus, a café and deli. Its breakfast and lunch menu includes biscuit and duck gravy, crepes, and a coffee bar, with house-made sodas, shrubs and kombucha. Also beers on tap and in the cooler. $$ B Br L f
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 55
H. M. FRANK'S AN O'SHEA'S PUBLIC HOUSE 355 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1174. Upon gutting the interior and re-building the facade of this 1880’s-era building, the original identity of H.M. Frank’s Dry Goods store was uncovered, a discovery that has given this O’Shea’s outpost its name. The bar is made from repurposed barn wood, there’s an event space upstairs, and upscale bar food is created by Chef John Knightly. $$ L D hpf THE HALL ON WASHINGTON 111 W. Main St., 384-1600. Inspired by the conviviality of German beer halls, this Whiskey Row spot serves a menu featuring small plates of sausages, charcuterie, cheeses and pickled vegetables, plus beef, lamb, chicken and seafood entrées. The full bar has dozens of rotating draft beers and ciders, canned and bottled beers. $$ L D hp THE MANHATTAN PROJECT 2101 Frankfort Ave., 7498925. This upscale gastropub has expanded, with a main room now looking out on the lively Cifton streetscape. The new menu includes short rib sliders, chicken and waffles and four kinds of fries. Mac ’n’ cheese has its own menu section listing almost a dozen possible adds ons—from bacon to crab to pork cheek to grilled chicken. TMP has become popular for its brunch, tacos & trivia Tuesdays, and the original space in the rear is a great sports watching or special party venue. $$ Br L D hpfe THE STANDARD PLATE & POUR 207 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1055. The renovated building that until recently housed Gospel Bird is now The Standard. Owners Beau Kerley and Tim Smith characterized their new business as a “pub with elevated food.” Look for Chef Smith’s tried and true favorites – steak and eggs, tomato soup en croute – as well as house-made pork rinds, cheese fritters and beer cheese and pretzels. $$$ Br L D hpfe WORLD OF BEER 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 690-4280. This Florida-based chain serves a wide variety of craft beers and sports a tavern menu that is a few notches above the usual bar food: wings and sandwiches, sure, but also chimichurri meatballs, ahi tuna poke and chipotle BBQ chicken flatbread. Its giant pretzel and beer cheese is a great shared nibbler. $$ L D hpfe
Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 5903662. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001, 1555 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0810, 11801 Interchange Dr., 618-0838. When the signature item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain popular. $ L D f DADDY RICH’S 617 W. Oak St., 290-9110. The kitchen incubator Chef Space gave birth to this new Old Louisville soul food spot. Owner Rodrick Martin named it after his late grandfather, who inspired him. The limited cooked to order menu includes chicken wraps, mini-waffles and ten wing flavors.
DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery, an institution that goes back more than 70 years, hasn’t changed much. It opens early, stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf FAMILY TIES 1809 W. Jefferson St., 915-7069, 1030 Cecil Ave., 907-6548. This pair of restaurants has a dual personality. The Jefferson St. location is more sports bar with a menu of burgers, wings, hot dogs and brats. The Cecil Ave. location offers more of the same, but the main focus is on barbecue. $ B L D h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702, 4226 Shelbyville Rd., 891-8848, 4917 Outer Loop, 8223702, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1027. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big smoky kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GET IT ON A BUN AT BOOTY’S 822 State St., New Albany IN, 292-3800. Another successful food truck finds a permanent home. Booty’s made their name with the Booty Dog, Booty Burger and chili but the menu now ranges from jerk chicken to pulled pork on brioche to a meatloaf cupcake.$ L D
DINO’S FOOD MART 2601 W. Broadway, 774-4333. This little grocery and convenience store also serves up some of the most popular takeout fried chicken in the West End. $ L D
GRIND BURGER KITCHEN 829 E. Market St., 851-7333. Owners Liz and Jesse Huot are firmly established now in NuLu, giving them much-needed parking, as well as a full bar. In addition to their signature burgers, the Huots have a chopped chicken sandwich, an “adult” grilled cheese made with Brie and Gruyere and a couple of salad choices. $$ L D f
DIXIE CHICKEN 1785 W. Oak St., 690-2748, 3947 Dixie Hwy., 448-2102, 8118 Preston Hwy., 450-5002. A growing fried chicken spot that serves up honest fried chicken and good, standard sides at reasonable prices, Dixie Chicken now has an eat-in outlet on Preston, in addition to their takeout only spots in Old Louisville and on the edge of Shively. $$ L D h
HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2723 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries with a baseball theme highlight these suburban spots, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f
80/20 @ KAELIN’S 1801 Newburg Rd., 200-8020. Burgers are back at the birthplace of the cheeseburger. Chef Matt Staggs's “rustic regional” menu offers 7 burgers and 7 entrées at this complete renovation of the classic Kaelin’s space. There’s a malt shop serving fountain drinks and house-made ice cream on one side, and a family-friendly restaurant and bar on the other. Seating on the spacious patio/porch, and upstairs is a large private room for parties and meetings. $$ L D h pf BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D BUFFALO WILD WINGS 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 10206 Westport Rd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 2549464, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464, 4917 Outer Loop, 964-5803. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D hf BURGERIM 3733 Lexington Rd. This fast-growing Californiabased chain offers burgers made with beef, salmon, lamb, chicken and falafel. Chicken wings and milkshakes too. $$ L Df THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 2469485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 55
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 56
HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-9099, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-3980, 4590 Dixie Hwy., 447-4856, 4419 Cane Run Rd., 448-1109, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 969-5352. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h JEFF'S BURGER SHACK 14126 Dixie Hwy., 384-0972. The building was once an A&W outlet; now it is a locally-owned casual fast food spot offering freshly made burgers (with a wide choice of toppings), freshly-cut fries, and milkshakes. $LD JOELLA’S HOT CHICKEN 3400 Frankfort Ave., 895-2235, 13401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1111. At this Nashville-style chicken emporium, diners will find traditional Southernfried chicken spiced medium, hot and hotter. House-made sides, of course, and local craft beers and wine, and freshsqueezed lemonade, too. $$ L D hpf KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013, 5603 Preston Hwy., 654-7707. $ L D h MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 384-4834, 113 S. Seventh St., 749-6451. The unusual combination in the name sparks immediate interest; the consistently excellent offerings of both shellfish and meat patties keeps satisfied customers coming back. Choose from six different sauces for the mussels, and 12 clever twists on burgers. The downtown venue has an expanded menu and a handsome outdoor courtyard. L D hpfe OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisville-based chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L OSKAR'S SLIDER BAR 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 395-9010. Jesse and Liz Huot (Grind Burger Kitchen) expand on their burger concept with a new slider bar. Oskar’s (the name inspired by the Huots’ son, Oskar) offers over a dozen slider choices – chicken, fried fish and pork belly in addition to the expected ground beef mini-burgers. Fries and salads, too. $$ LDp RAILBIRDS HOT CHICKEN 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. Grab some wings or jumbo tenders at your choice of heat level or other non-spicy chicken dishes and sides like fries and slaws before you head back to the games. $ L D h RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040, 6811 Bardstown Rd., 654-7737, 5212 Dixie Hwy., 742-9035, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 822-1188, 12009 Shelbyville Rd., 4347681, 1905 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9441. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. Six locations in town now, all offering simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 948-9895. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well-regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations and S. Indiana. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf RED TOP GOURMET HOT DOGS 1127 Logan St., 6402032. The journey from street cart to food truck to storefront is complete. Ryan Cohee's all beef, nitrate- and preservativefree hotdogs can be found now in Shelby Park. Bison and Waygu beef choices, as well as vegan/ vegetarian-friendly dogs. Columbus-style sauerkraut balls, too. $ L D hp 56 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 6181128, 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 708-2798. With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain is now spreading its franchise reach across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its six local properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D hpf
ZAXBY’S (9 Locations) There are now 9 outlets in Louisville and Southern Indiana. The casual dining chain cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wingz and fingerz - that sort of thing. $ L D h
ROYALS HOT CHICKEN 736 E. Market St., 919-7068, 10305 Taylorsville Rd, 749-2013. Ryan Rogers first pressure-fries his chicken, then, in the Nashville style, blankets it with a paste of oil and spices delivering mild to “Gonzo” heat. If you’re not in the mood for bird, salads and even Southernfried tofu are on the menu. $$L D f
ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT 2750 S. Seventh St., 242-5108. This modest little, near-West End spot provides neighborhood diners with wings, fried fish, burgers and fries. $ L D h
AROMA CAFÉ & BAR Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866-676-7463. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $$$ B L D p
SIX FORKS BURGER CO. 1270 S. Preston St., 779-1993 The name of this family-run, family-friendly spot in Shelby Park was inspired by the owners’ six children. Burgers, of course, with an expansive toppings bar. Also on the menu are a variety of sausages and hot dogs, sandwiches and fries topped 6 ways. $ L D
ASPIRE CAFÉ & JUICE BAR 332 W. Broadway, 804-4756. This African-soul food fusion restaurant, relocated in the Heyburn Building, offers vegetarian and vegan foods, including a specialty, a Nigerian stew. $ B L f
SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport) 363-2526. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has three Kentucky locations serving madeto-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open more area locations. $ L D f STEAK ‘N SHAKE 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak ‘n Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h THE CHICKEN BOX 5905 Terry Rd., 618-0430. This Pleasure Ridge Park restaurant offers six flavors of wings, all cooked to order: buffalo, extra hot, bbq, lemon pepper, hot garlic Parmesan and lemon pepper hot. The waffle biscuit has impressed fans. $ L D f THE CHILLBURGER 500 LaFollette Station Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8283; 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 725-9157. These two Southern Indiana burger places tout freshly-ground USDA Choice beef, fresh-cut fries and milk shakes and sundaes from hormone-free dairy. Chicken and fish sandwiches, too. $ L D f THE EAGLE 1314 Bardstown Rd., 498-8420. This small Cincinnati-based chain serving fried chicken, five-cheese macaroni, house-made biscuits and other comfort food, has established itself firmly in the Highlands restaurant row. The three-season patio is a great place to enjoy the beer list. $ L D hpf W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated build-your-own burger joint has packed in fans at its location near Dupont Circle for over 30 years, serving substantial burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and offering more than 40 toppings on the lengthy condiments bar. $ L D h WHISKEY DRY 412 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!) 7497933. Ed Lee expands his local empire to Fourth Street Live! with this casual burger and whiskey bar. The menu features a suggested whiskey pairing for each burger from among the 200 whiskeys from America, Ireland, Japan and elsewhere. $$ L D hpf THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445, 3038 Hunsinger Ln., 618-0106. Wing Zone, with locations scattered across the eastern U.S., excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Tame to Nuclear Habanero. Burgers, fried shrimp and sides as well. $ L D hf
WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000, 2007 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7171. This Texas-based chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp
ATLANTIC NO. 5 605 W. Main St., 883-3398. Owners Mary Wheatley and Rebecca Johnson offer fresh takes on breakfast and lunch in this sharp Main St. renovation. Eat in or take away hearty biscuits, ham slider breakfast sandwiches, bagels or house-made granola. At lunch choose simple grilled cheese or specialty sandwiches. $ B Br L pfe ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 8999800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L D hf BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. Named after the owner’s dear, departed beagle, Boomer’s is a popular, low-key downtown deli in the heart of the museum district. Sandwiches, burger and fries, homemade chocolate cookies, and good coffee. $ L BORSALINO CAFÉ & DELI 3825 Bardstown Rd., 807-5325. This Buechel store is somewhere between a coffee shop, a fancy bakery and a deli. You can stop in for your morning coffee and sweet bun to go, buy a cake for dessert or take away a stuffed pita for lunch. $ B L D hf CAFÉ 157 157 E. Main St., 548-9114. This little café downtown serves breakfast and lunch daily except Wednesdays, dinner on Thursday through Saturday, and Sunday brunch. The menu skews to Southern comfort foods, all fresh and scratch-made, including corned beef cured inhouse. The owner ran Old Bridge Inn B&B, for many years. $$ B Br L D p CAFÉ 223 223 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1877. Carol and Steve Stembro, owners of Jeffersonville's Market Street Inn, have renovated a house near the Big Four Bridge, to provide sustenance for cross-river walkers and J’ville regulars, who will find baked goods and breakfast items in the morning, and paninis, salads, soups and hot and cold beverages for lunch. $ B L f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at this friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, dinerstyle, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf CAFÉ ON MEIGS 425 Meigs Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8515. The menu at this downtown J’ville lunch spot emphasizes
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 57
fresh local ingredients and the avoidance of preservatives and processed ingredients. Although the usual suspects are there — chicken salad, roast beef sandwiches with Swiss cheese and red onion, Benedictine, grilled cheese, Cobb salad — all are done with integrity. $ L CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch or supper. $$ B L D fe CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot where owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as lasagna and Brie and cranberry-stuffed chicken. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CHRISTI'S CAFÉ 12810 Dixie Hwy., 937-3110. This familyoperated restaurant in Valley Station serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, all the dishes you know you want: omelets, hotcakes, wings, chili, bean soup, giant burgers, open-faced roast beef with mashed potatoes and liver and onions. $ B L D CITY CAFÉ 222 Eastern Pkwy., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. This family-owned and operated, classier-than-the-average-strip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 30 years. The Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlicbasil chicken pizza) and dishes like the Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D hp CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 2469339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f CUP OF JOY 2507 Bank St., 919-9074. This coffee shop and café, located in a former bar, is a project of Haven Ministries and run mostly by volunteers. According to founder Esther Lyon, the food is “homemade, down-home cooking … biscuits and gravy, homemade potato soup, chicken and dumplings, turnovers, pastries.” Nothing on the menu tops $5. $ B L DERBY CAFÉ EXPRESS 704 Central Ave. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 637-1111. You can get both grab-and-go eats, and made-to-order breakfast and lunch items before or after your visit to the Derby Museum. At breakfast, choose from hot and cold breakfast items, fresh pastries and kolache. The lunch menu offers deli-style sandwiches, paninis, soups, salads, Derby Pie (of course) and Benedictine. There is also a full bar. $ B L pf THE EARLY EDITION 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 5901280. Behind Dos Gringos, owners Beau Kerley and Tim Smith are operating what they call “a greasy spoon with a touch of Mexican taste.” It’s a breakfast diner serving until 11:30 am, when Dos Gringos starts its lunch service. $ B FARM TO FORK CAFÉ 2425 Portland Ave., 365-3276. Farm to Fork, for many years a premier catering company known for its Southern favorites made from scratch from regionally-
sourced ingredients, has moved its operations to a former Portland firehouse and has opened a café serving breakfast and lunch. The seasonal menu includes grits, biscuits, soup, salads and sandwiches. $ B L p FULL STOP FILLING STATION 1132 E. St. Catherine St., 260-8046. This former car repair shop is now a grab and go coffee shop and deli, offering locally-sourced food, coffee and a few grocery items, a limited to-go beer section and some beers on tap. Café open until 5; kitchen closes at 2 p.m. $ B L p GRACIOUS PLENTY 9207 US Hwy 42, 618-4755, 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 618-4755. Eat in or carry away fresh sandwiches, salads and soups, cookies and brownies at this Brownsboro Road deli and bakery, which also serves alcohol. Take away meals to heat up at home for dinner, too. The Prospect location is catering and carry-out only. $ L D p HAYMARKET BISTRO 300 E. Market St., 779-6825. Atria Senior Living has moved its employee café to the first floor and opened it to the public, serving lunch to downtown workers. Haymarket Bistro's menu includes sandwiches, pizza, salads and soups, including unusual offerings such as a ramp pesto and a grilled portobello wrap. $$ L HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 883-0203. You can order breakfast anytime at both locations, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h HOT BOX EATERY 438 W. Market St., 822-3995. Try their fresh soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps and daily specials. Menu choices include a Brie and salami wrap, Indonesian chicken peanut satay, pork schnitzel, a turkey club wrap and a gyro — in other words, an appealingly diverse selection. $ L J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf JW CAFÉ & BAKERY 2301 Terra Crossing Blvd., 907-5248. The bakery part of this East End spot offers scones and cupcakes and other expected bakery treats. The café part has a variety of lunch items, including Korean specialties. The smoked salmon salad has won fans quickly. $ B L f KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f KEVIN'S PICNIC 11505 Park Rd., 690-3310. PICNIC opened as a café, but owner Kevin Grangier has rethought his concept. This Anchorage property is now a bakery and catering business only. No more salads and sandwiches, but there are plenty of pastries, cakes, pies and other baked goods. $ B Br L pf LA PECHE GOURMET TO GO AND CAFÉ 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Kathy Cary returns to her roots with this popular gourmet take-out counter, in the corner of her restaurant, Lilly’s. Featuring “tried and true” dishes like grilled chicken pasta, burgers, vegetarian sandwiches, chicken salad, and a dessert case that always includes strawberry pie. $$ B L D LE PETIT CAFÉ 1325 Bardstown Rd., 749-0883. The space that was Roux now houses this tiny crèperie and sandwich spot serving breakfast and lunch. There are savory and sweet crepes, as well as smoothies and French toast. $$ B L D h MELROSE CAFÉ 13206 Hwy. 42, 409-6784. Kristin Fults’s breakfast and lunch spot sits just on the Louisville side of the Jefferson-Oldham County line. Fults named her suburban cafe in homage to the late, lamented Melrose Inn, which was located nearby. Fans find much satisfaction with cooked-to-order breakfasts, hearty sandwiches and a convivial atmosphere. $$ B L D NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770. This long-time favorite offers hearty and unusual breakfasts,
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 57
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 58
satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L PROSPECT CAFÉ 9550 US Hwy. 42, 708-2151. Conveniently located at the intersection of River Rd. and Hwy. 42, stop in for hot sandwiches (Cuban, Reuben, grilled Italian, Bourbon BBQ) or cold deli stuff — club sandwich, egg, tuna or chicken salad, or soups like chicken and dumplings. Chess bars and banana pudding too. $ L PURE BLENDZ 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 6408668. This kiosk at the Logan Street Market offers pure, unprocessed foods in the form of superfood smoothie bowls, avocado toast, kombucha, lemonade tea fogs and more. $ L Df PURRFECT DAY CAT CAFÉ 1741 Bardstown Rd., 916-5051. One room is a wine bar with snacks and small bites provided by local bakeries. The other room, by reservation, is a Cat Room, populated by cats needing homes, provided by the Humane Society. Bring in a drink, and play and cuddle with kitties — and maybe take one home. $ B L D hp QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $BLf RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 4510700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, with Cuban, Jamaican, Greek and Middle Eastern dishes. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf RED HOG 2622 Frankfort Ave., 384-0795. Kit Garrett and Bob Hancock, owners of Blue Dog Bakery, now also have this butcher shop and café offering artisan cured meats in Crescent Hill. Pasture-raised pork, beef, bison, lamb and poultry are available. The café serves small plates and pizzas fired from their wood-burning oven. The bar offers craft cocktails and 12 beer taps. $$ L D pf RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 893-5118. This perennially popular little East End eatery, long a go-to choice for breakfast and lunch, now provides dinner on Friday nights too. $ Br L D f SHAHAR CAFÉ 1511 Bardstown Rd., 653-7083. Anselmo’s Italian gives way to this eclectic eatery whose owners have devised a menu of Euro-Asian entrees and snacks. The wideranging menu includes beef kabobs, Russian piroshki, samosas and poutine. Weekend entrée specials may include plov (a central Asian rice and meat dish), shashlik (similar to shish kebab), pelmeni (Russian dumplings) and borscht. $ B Br L D THE SILLY AXE CAFÉ 2216 Dundee Rd., 290-7197. A completely gluten-free restaurant. Most recently home to Diorio’s Pizza, Silly Axe (a play on celiac disease) has a deli counter and a selection of pre-made items for take-away. The menu offers meat, vegan and vegetarian choices, daily quesadillas and five house sandwiches. $$ L D pf STARLIGHT CAFÉ 19816 Huber Rd., Starlight IN, 923-9813. This café in the Winery building at Huber Farm provides light lunch items such as seasonal soups, Rueben sandwiches, a turkey club, chicken salad or artisan flatbread pizza. Dine inside in the dining room or outside on the patio that overlooks the 550-acre farm. Huber wines and cocktails made from spirits distilled on the premises available too. $$ L D pf THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L 58 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. Long-time local restaurateurs Sal and Cindy Rubino have sold their Paristown building and business, which eventually will be relocated nearby. The new owners, Paristown Food and Beverage Group, (operators of Buckhead Mountain Grill) pledge to keep the menu and the ambiance that the Rubino’s have developed; the Rubino’s will continue to run the busy breakfast and lunch spot as it currently is until the Paristown entertainment development is completed. $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Since 1975 this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $Lf THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L THE TABLE 1800 Portland Ave., 708-2505. This West End non-profit, social entrepreneurship experiment serves locally-grown, fresh food and operates under a pay-whatyou-can model. Pay suggested prices if you can, or if not, contribute your time. Or donate more to “pay it forward.” The menu offers soups, salads, sandwiches and sides. $ L D VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-4338. $ LD WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community reentry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts for under $5; a lunch buffet is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too. It’s a do-gooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449, 121 S. Floyd St., 690-5925, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN 913-4735. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s fifth outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE AT LOGAN STREET MARKET 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 581-8560. Susan Hershberg was one of the first to sign onto the market idea when she moved her wholesale bakery production kitchen there last year. Her booth will sell artisan breads, breakfast pastries and desserts. Opens at 8 am for grab-and-go breakfast, with specials planned for take-away light dinner items for homebound commuters. $$B Br L f WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 Caterer/restaurateur Susan Hershberg’s popular bakery and café operation, a welcome stop for those wanting artisanal breads, scones and croissants, now serves full breakfasts (Tuscan egg sandwich, breakfast grain bowl, frittata, smoked salmon plate) as well as sandwiches and paninis, side salads and more from the cafe. $ B L ZEGGZ AMAZING EGGS 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 882-1650. This quick-service breakfast and lunch spot offers five house omelets (plus the chance to build your own), three variations on eggs Benedict, as well as biscuits and gravy, croque madames, waffles and pancakes. Luncheon fare includes a B.A.L.T (the ‘a’ is for avocado), salads and soups. $$ B Br L pf
AGAVE & RYE EPIC TACOS 426 Baxter Ave., 873-5111. The fourth location of this Covington-based chain has taken over the former Ward 426 space. Offerings include tacos, bourbon, arcade games and over 70 different tequilas. What makes the tacos “Epic?” Ingredients: The Rooster has crispy chicken, mac and cheese and Nashville hot sauce; a vegge offering called “Bang Bang” is filled with crispy cauliflower, corn fritters, queso and spicy carrots. $$ L D hp f A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have branched out to three locations. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S 4717 Dixie Hwy., 448-1399, 10006 Will Way, 231-1661, 4535 Outer Loop, 969-1228, 771 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-3594, 3030 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1600. This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 2392200, 302 Bullitt Ln., 425-0077. A lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp BISCUIT BELLY 900 E. Main St., 409-5729, 3723 Lexington Rd., 690-2945, 818 W. Kenwood Dr. (Colonial Gardens). Chad and Lauren Coulter, of LouVino fame, own this breakfast- and lunch-oriented eatery. You’ll find over-sized biscuit sandwiches filled with chicken, country ham or brisket; oatmeal, hash and Nutella toast, as well as an adult beverage program that includes beers and coffee-inflected cocktails. There’s non-alcoholic coffee, too, and eggs however you like them. $$ B Br L pf BLIND SQUIRREL 592 N. English Station Rd., 384-6761. This American-style restaurant is part of the King Louis Sports complex. The 400-seat, two-story dining facility boasts outdoor seating overlooking the sand volleyball courts, 27 TVs inside, a performance venue, a cigar humidor and outdoor smoking lounge. Chef Chris Goss serves up his take on American family standards: burgers, sandwiches, pizza and so on. $$ L D hpfe BOOMTOWN 110 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1314. A third restaurant takes over the former home of the legendary South Side Inn, Boomtown focuses on affordable classic dishes: several burgers, including a wild game option, steak dinner with two sides and pork chops. $$ L D pf BOUJIE BISCUIT 1813 Frankfort Ave., 269-8426. This tiny Clifton space advertises, “Scratch-made comfort food on a handcrafted buttermilk biscuit.” The menu is mostly sandwiches, served on oversized biscuits—ham and threecheese biscuit, chicken pot pie biscuit and three different burger biscuits. Every sandwich is served in a cardboard togo box, which most diners find they need. $$ B L f BRICK HOUSE TAVERN + TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brick House, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D hpf BROOKE & BILLY’S BITES, BOURBONS & BREWS 751 Vine St., 583-9165. The restored 19th-century building has a secluded patio and revamped dining room in a cool, out-ofthe-way neighborhood—and, it now has a new identity. The menu refocuses on house specials like fried chicken and an extensive selection of sandwiches and small bites. $$$ L D pf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 4566680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN 284-2919. The
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 59
deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of all-American fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. Both locations house big square bars with a multitude of TV screens for excellent sports viewing. $$ L D hpf CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual second-floor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILLE 505 Marriott Dr. (Radisson Hotel), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D p CHEDDAR’S SCRATCH KITCHEN 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880, 3007 Poplar Level Rd., 6385202, 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 6703000. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D h COMMON TABLE 2234 W Market St., 873-2566. A dash of social justice adds savor to the food at this restaurant run as a culinary arts training program by Catholic Charities. The kitchen only serves lunch Tuesdays and Thursdays and uses fresh produce grown by refugees in a sister program's incubator farm. Offerings include boxed lunches and a seasonal menu with a “worldly” mix of dishes including Thai, Cuban, Pakistani and Bosnian. $ L CORELIFE EATERY 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-5680. This Syracuse-based franchise offers vegetable and grains bowls, bone and vegetable broth, and grass-fed steak, chicken and tofu power plates. $$ L D DENNY’S 4030 Dutchmans Ln., 896-2669, 434 Eastern Pkwy., 636-2538. What better place for travelers to get breakfast than Denny’s? This venerable chain knows its customers, pleasing them with familiar diner food in big portions. The late-night scene in this 24-hour refuge for the hungry makes for colorful fun. $$ B Br L D h DOUBLE DOGS 13307 Shelbyville Rd., 244-4430. Double Dogs, a Bowling Green, Ky.-based chain with four locations, has its first Louisville-area restaurant in Middletown. Double Dogs describes itself as “a family friendly restaurant with a sports atmosphere,” serving a variety of appetizers, sandwiches, hot dogs, burgers and pizza. $ L D hpf EAT YOUR BOURBON MARKETPLACE 2708 Frankfort Ave., 618-0939. Owner Matt Jamie extends his Crescent Hill Bourbon Barrel Foods concept with this grab-and-go prepared foods store that uses recipes from Jamie’s "Eat Your Bourbon" cookbook: charcuterie boards, sandwiches and other prepared foods from Chef-in-Residence Michael Crouch and Butchertown Grocery Bakery. $$ B Br L D p FIRST WATCH 201 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6075, 960 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1955, 1205 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 575-3447, 2225 Taylorsville Rd., 4447744. This Florida-based chain offers both traditional breakfast fare (fried eggs, sausage), proprietary specials, like French toast Monte Cristo (made with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese), crepes with plenty of fillings and healthful dishes like egg white omelets and cranberry nut
oatmeal. Soups, salads and a big choice of sandwiches for lunch. $ B L GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. The specialties here are sliders, meatballs and burgers made from ground exotic meats. Start with bone marrow or fried frog legs, try some wild boar chorizo or bison tongue sliders, or build your own burger from kangaroo, venison, alpaca or prime Angus beef, with bun choices ranging from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. $$ D f GANDER, AN AMERICAN GRILL 111 S. English Station Rd., 915-8484. Chris and Anne Mike, of Goose Creek Diner, have opened Gander, An American Grill, serving steaks, burgers, pasta and sandwiches — "a little bit of everything that makes America what it is," according to Mike. $$$ Br L D hpf GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach reflects its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald. There are two breakfast buffets, American and Continental, as well as a la carte choices from the griddle or from a “Healthy Sunrise” menu. $$ B L hp GREEN DISTRICT SALADS 126 Breckenridge Ln., 4095293, 225 S. Fifth St., 409-5293. This quick-service restaurant focusing on build-your-own chopped salads (or select from a menu). Lunch diners can opt for house-made soups and wraps, too. $$ L D GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D HARROD’S CREEK TAVERN 6313 River Rd., 919-8812. Commuters trundling home to the suburbs can mingle with Prospect residents, river rats and parched kayakers docking out back on Harrod’s Creek. Look for an expanded bar food menu, brown bag lunches to go and late-night food service. $ L D hpfe INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h JOE'S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 4347470. The Lyndon landmark has returned to its old spot, replacing Red Barn Kitchen, which had replaced Joe’s. The bar is rebuilt and another stuffed moose has been found. But Olé Restaurant Group remains a partner, providing the food: smoked wings, brisket chili, cheese fritters, a mac and cheese burger and a daily lunch plate, all at prices that will appeal to Joe’s original fan base. $$ L D hpf KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ LDh MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where Farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf MOYA'S AMERICAN KITCHEN 10000 Linn Station Rd., 496-6692. The menu of this modest place lists Cajun/Creole dishes, hamburgers, pasta, seafood and desserts. $$ L D pf NAÏVE 1001 E. Washington St., 749-7856. This Butchertown vegetarian restaurant has been catering for some months in preparation for its opening as a sit-down restaurant. Its dishes include savory rice bowls, burritos, frittatas and quiches, savory toasts, salads and sandwiches. $$ D pf NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp NOODLES & COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 6320102, 4300 Summit Plaza Dr., 804-4724, 319 Cardinal
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 59
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 60
Blvd., 632-2846. This Colorado-based fast-casual chain offers an eclectic noodle array: Asian style (pad Thai, Bangkok curry), pastas (Tuscan fresca, penne rossa) — or select from a lineup of savory sandwiches and salads.. $ L D f
THE SPOT 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., 690-3011. The restaurant connected with the Ramada Plaza hotel, The Spot serves breakfast through dinner: eggs and pancakes, mozzarella sticks and fried calamari, pastas, grilled chicken and seafood. $BLDph
O’CHARLEY’S (5 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp
TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. On both sides of the river this breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf
OLD LOUISVILLE CHILI BOWL 501 W. Oak St., 384-0745. As the name suggests, here you will find chili—regular, vegetarian, hot or white. Burgers (including a Jersey burger), hot dogs, salads and sides as well—all at bargain prices. Open Thursdays-Saturdays only. $ L D PORTAGE HOUSE 117 E. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0435. Portage House, in a historic home along the river, is the second restaurant of Dallas McGarity, owner-chef of The Fat Lamb in the Highlands. Here on the sunny-side of the river his eclectic but thoughtful menu offers kim chee risotto fritters, griddled meatloaf and Nutella-mascarpone mousse. $$$ L D pf RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 8973900. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp S BAR 1442 Dixie Hwy., 439-6574. You can get superfood smoothies and shakes at this South End spot, but the unique draw is the selection of “spuds” — loaded baked potatoes topped with things like chicken and broccoli Alfredo, Philly cheese steak, pulled pork and Buffalo chicken. $ L D SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta know it is well worth the trip up into the Knobs above New Albany to enjoy the conviviality of his restaurant, and his always satisfying take on classic American steak, sandwiches and seafood. $$ L D p SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 340 Whittington Pkwy., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 7210093, 3505 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 725-7176. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SUPERCHEFS 1702 Bardstown Rd., 409-8103. The funky comic book-themed decor in Darnell Ferguson’s Highlands restaurant celebrates super heroes during breakfast and lunch, and super villains at dinner. His menu reflects his super-sized sensibilities: the SuperChefs Omelet, the Pancake Platter, and a seafood pizza with a petite lobster tail on top. $$ B Br L pf TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 5853577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf THE PIAZZA Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866676-7463. Adjacent to the casino you can find four different options to fit your mood: Mexican, Asian, homestyle comfort dishes, and classic favorites like wings and burgers. $$ B Br L D hp
60 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 4518944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h
8TH STREET PIZZA 800 E. Eighth St., New Albany IN, 6456974. This “boutique, pay-it-forward pizza shop and ministry” serves New York style pizza with a “pay what you can afford” concept. Pay the full suggested price, pay what you can afford to pay, or pay the full amount of the suggested meal price plus a little extra to "pay it forward”. $ LDf ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 367-0580. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L Dh ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 945-1149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L Dh ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (14 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 14 locations. $$ L D h
BORROMEO’S PIZZA & ITALIAN 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D hpf CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEF'S CUT PIZZERIA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 265-1320. This reasonably priced Lyndon pizza place has sandwiches too, from chili dogs to turkey clubs, and pasta dishes. $ L D p CHUBBY RAY’S 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. This family restaurant has grown from a small mostly carry-out spot to a large (400 seat) Jeffersontown institution. The menu offerings have expanded as well. In addition to signature pizzas, you can find quesadillas and rooster wings, burgers and subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D hpf COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 742-8200, 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0106, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Middletown and airport travelers now partake in what St. Matthews diners have enjoyed for a few years–excellent pizzas made in coal-fired ovens burning at 800 degrees F, crisping the crust in 4 minutes and “leoparding” it with black spots. Toppings are fresh and regionally-sourced. $$ L D hpf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1836 Mellwood Ave., 8906331. Dan McMahon sells generously-topped pizzas at the walk-up venue in the courtyard of the Mellwood Arts Center. The choices are mostly traditional with outliers like Hawaiian and Kentucky Hot Brown. His butter-drenched garlic breadsticks, aka “Cracksticks,” are a fan favorite. McMahon’s pizzas can also be found at Tim Tam Tavern. $$ L D h DERBY CITY PIZZA 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373, 2500 Crittenden Dr., 384-4777, 10619 Manslick Rd., 742-3940, 2331 Brownsboro Rd., 290-0677, 9910 Linn Station Rd., 384-8733. It is always nice when a business’s name is selfexplanatory. But the menu offers burgers and wings, too, along with toasted subs and pasta dishes. The Brownsboro Road location is carry-out only. $$ L D hpf DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. Residents in St. Matthews and in the Highlands can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D hpf
BLAZE FAST-FIRE’D PIZZA 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-7800, 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 822-3677, 4055 Summit Plaza Dr., 915-8731, 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarsville IN, 406-4347. At this California-based pizza franchise you customize your own pie from a lineup of meat and vegetable toppings, cheeses and several sauces. The pie bakes in just 2 minutes in a flaming hearth oven. There are ready-to-order signature pies also for those who can’t make up their minds. $$ L D p hf
FAT JIMMY’S 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Middletown spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h
BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 935-5540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h
FIRENZA PIZZA 12406 Lagrange Rd., 999-2099. This Virginia-based chain touts pizza dough made in-house daily, and a total of 40 topping combinations chosen along with six sauces, seven cheeses, nine meats and 17 vegetables. Pies are made-to-order and baked in stone-hearth ovens. $$ L D pf
BOOMBOZZ PIZZA · WATCH BAR 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4171, 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-4111. After two decades of success with his gourmet pizza stores, Tony Palombino is reimagining his brand and retooling both the decor and the menus at all of his locations. That reimagining includes audio/video enhancements, a new company logo and slogan (“Crafted for You”), an expanded wine and cocktail list and a dedicated takeout entrance. New menu items include jumbo tater tots stuffed with bacon and cheddar cheese, a cauliflower crust pizza, seasonal pizzas and game day specials. $$ L D hpf
THE GRAIN HAUS 41 W. First St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Part of Floyd County Brewing, the separate building across the court yard boasts a wood-fired pizza oven and a rotating list of guest beers. $$ D hpfe HOMETOWN PIZZA 4041 Preston Hwy., 363-4880, 9601 Newbridge Rd., 409-6276, 12607 Taylorsville Rd., 7428700, 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555. The four local outlets of this chain offer pasta dishes, hoagies and stromboli as well as pies like the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. The Preston Highway location will soon open an adjacent craft brewery; the beers brewed there will be available in all Hometown locations. $$ L D hp
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 61
IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ LDh JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 458-5387, 10494 Westport Rd., 426-1181. Now with seven Louisville outlets, this Detroit-based chain offers sitdown service and carry-out. The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 749-8400. This chain out of Atlanta, GA with its roots starting in Manlius, NY has settled in the neighborhood of Norton Commons. They offer an array of New York-style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (13 Locations) This pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. A pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishment. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h MAC'S DOUGH HOUSE 10509 Watterson Trl., 694-2322, 636 Barret Ave. (inside Mile Wide Beer Co.), 409-8139. At the J’town location, choose from a dozen pizzas with clever names, or mac 'n' cheese variations like buffalo chicken or a spicy version made with Sriracha and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos. A second location, beneath the silos at Mile Wide Brewery, offers a concise menu of personal-size pizzas, salads and appetizers that pairs well with Mile Wide’s tap list. There’s even a Nutella dessert pizza. $$ L D hp
Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. The remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D h OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 3017700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, along with amusing appetizers (jalapeño cheese pretzels, Italian nachos), filling salads, sandwiches and burgers. Check out the imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 882-1776. You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? You can get it in the Eastern suburbs near I-265. Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 4542711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 653-7243. Impellizzeri’s massive pies, loved for a generation, are the draw but there is also a full menu of Italian-inspired meals including hoagie sandwiches and pasta dishes at all four locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (10 Locations) $$ L D PARLOUR 131 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 914-7400. Parlour, another Big Four Bridge-inspired eatery, offers 40+ beers on tap, a covered outdoor bar with a fire pit, an upstairs bar in the renovated 1870s-era house and green space for games like cornhole, horseshoes and bocce. $$ L D hpf PIZZA BAR 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 915-8113. You will find New York-style pizzas by the slice or the whole pie, appetizers, salads and grinder sandwiches at this replacement for Birracibo. $$ L D hpf
PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Old Louisville hipsters have long needed a nearby pizza joint. Now they have it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies, along with appetizers, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D hf PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9454405, 1701 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-8286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. We heartily recommend the barbecue pizza. $$ L D PIZZA LUPO 1540 Frankfort Ave., 409-8440. Max Balliet, the owner of Holy Molé taco truck, now also has Lupo, a casual Italian restaurant where he bakes up pizzas on a fire-enginered wood-fired oven. Along with pizza, Lupo offers a variety of handmade pastas in a restored 19th century Butchertown building. $$ D h pf PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D hpf PRIMO'S PIZZA 2043 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-7072. Based on a recent visit, this new spot is off to a great start. There are no conveyor belts here. Well-trained pizza makers give each pie individual attention, the toppings and accents (like fresh basil) are fine quality, and the assortment of crusts — wheat, thin, rising, deep dish, cauliflower, broccoli — is first rate. The lunch special, ten bucks for a big fresh salad with a generous personal pizza is a steal. $$ L D f SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. In addition to generously-topped pizzas, you can find panini, subs, burgers, and fried fish at this inviting spot in a Lyndon strip mall. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 589-8686, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 491-3663. Ready for takeout or eat-in, both the downtown storefront and its suburban sister site offer good, standard pizza and other familiar ItalianAmerican dishes. $$ L D hpf SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D hf
MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D h MIMO’S NEW YORK STYLE PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, New Albany IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix. Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p MOD PIZZA 3085 Breckenridge Ln., 915-7810. The first Louisville location of this Seattle chain makes artisan-style pizza and salads tossed to order. Its niche is individual pizzas served quickly and with a choice of over 30 toppings, all for one price. Choices are named in typical West Coast fashion: Calexico, Caspian, Lucy Sunshine, and so forth. $ L D pf MOMMA’S PIZZA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike, Jeffersonville IN, 697-3224. Create your own pizza style here or choose one of the specialty pies, such as the Jesse James, with jalapeños, spicy sausage and pepperoni and marinara fire sauce, the ranch chicken or Momma’s vegetable pizza. $$ D MOZZA PI 12102 Lagrange Rd., 890-4832. Tom Edwards began MozzaPi several years ago as one of the first food trucks in Louisville. At his Anchorage pizza place he drafts artisanal pies from flour he mills himself. He makes bread too, and gives courses in artisanal baking. $$$ L D pf MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 10035 Dixie Hwy., 632-2504, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw. $$ L D NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020
61
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 62
SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919, 4005 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their Philly Cheesesteaks and massive slices of pizza has added a third location. All are open until 5 am nightly Wednesday through Saturday. $ L D h THE CORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he THE POST 1045 Goss Ave., 635-2020. Germantown has long needed a classic New York-style pizza joint, and this spot, in a former VFW post, has provided it. Pizza is available by slice or whole pie, mostly classic tomato sauced varieties, but a few oddities, like the chicken dinner pizza with Buffalobased sauce, chicken, cheddar, onion and ranch drizzle. Calzones, subs and salads, too.$$ D h p TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. The long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D TOPP'T HANDCRAFTED PIZZA 373 Professional Court, New Albany IN, 725-8891, 323 W. Cardinal Blvd., 2901379. This Elizabethtown-based fast-casual pizza and salad concept serves fast-fired (in an 800-degree oven), handcrafted pizzas and made-to-order chopped salads. The thin crust dough is made onsite daily in original, wheat and gluten-free versions. One price regardless of the number of toppings. $$ L D f
Backbone (brisket tips), Big Ben’s shredded pork sandwich and Alvin’s Wild-Side shredded chicken sandwich. $$ L D f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ L D f CARR'S BBQ AND MARKET 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8106. This Floyds Knobs restaurant uses locallysourced meats in its pulled pork, brisket, smoked turkey breast, chili and ribs. Choose sandwiches, plates with sides, or order by the pound. $$ L D f CHECK'S BBQ & BLUES 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. The owners of Germantown’s Checks Café have opened this BBQ joint in Middletown, featuring live blues bands on weekends. Some Check’s Café standards (chicken livers, fried pork chops), along with ribs, pulled pork and brisket, as sandwiches and full dinners comprise the menu. $ L D hpe CITY BARBEQUE 329 Whittington Pkwy., 996-8003. This Ohio-based BBQ chain specializes in brisket, but doesn’t neglect pulled pork (served with slaw on top) and St. Louis ribs. It also smokes turkey breast, chicken and sausage. $$ L Dpfe
UNION 15 5205 New Cut Rd. (Colonial Gardens), 653-7494, 1301 Story Ave. The name of this pizza and tap house refers to Kentucky joining the Union as the 15th state. The menu includes Chicago thin crust pizza, wings and sandwiches. The bar has more than 50 beers, wines and bourbon on tap. $$ L D hpf
FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf
WEST POINT PIZZA 407 South St., West Point KY, 263-9371 If you find yourself on the downriver side of town, across the Salt River, and hungry, but you don’t know for what, stop in here. In addition to pizzas made with fresh dough every day, you will find tacos and burgers as well. $$ D f
FDKY BBQ 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 785-4273. The logo shows that “FD” stands for Fire Department — after all, those guys know all about smokin’. Eat dinner in or order a couple of pounds of pulled pork, marinated pulled chicken, brisket or smoked sausage, firehouse chili or Res Q stew and all the required side dishes to go. Ribs on Wednesdays and Friday calls for fried fish. $$ L D f
WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425, 3348 Hikes Ln., 9075542. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all four of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D
AMERICAN SMOKEHOUSE STADIUM 5580 Hwy. 62, Jeffersonville IN, 282-6700. This Southern Indiana BBQ joint does the usual stuff – brisket, pulled pork and chicken. But also look for the smoked prime rib, burnt ends, smoked lamb gyros or fried tofu. $ L D hp B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BABIE BAC'Z GOOD GRILL 8533 Terry Rd., 619-1873. This far South End family-owned barbecue restaurant smokes up baby back ribs and rib tips, half chickens and wings and several sandwiches, including the Bacz Attack, which combines ham, bacon and pork. $$ L D BABY MAE'S 1817 Graybrook Ln., New Albany IN, 914-7040. Barbecue and soul food in the old Mom & Pop’s Cone Corner building. Baby Mae’s reasonably priced menu includes everyone’s comfort foods: ribs, pulled pork, smoked turkey, mac and cheese, home fries and the “grandaddy of chili dogs.” $ L D BIG BEN’S BBQ 600 Quartermaster Center, Jeffersonville IN, 284-4453. This family run BBQ joint is now at the Quartermaster Center, smoking up a storm and impressing locals who recommend Johnnie’s Smokin Ribs, Joecille’s
62 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
FEAST BBQ 909 E. Market St., 749-9900, 10318 Taylorsville Rd., 749-6534. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue to both NuLu and Jeffersontown. He has formulas for brining times and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and the smoke from overwhelming the meats. $ B L D hpf FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. And where else can you play miniature golf while waiting for the smoker to finish? $ L D hpf GALLEY AT GOODWOOD 636 E. Main St., 584-2739. Goodwood Brewing’s downtown production facility and comfortable taproom now offers a menu designed to pair with its liquid fare. Start with bowls of chili or burgoo, grab some wings or tacos, or one of the smoked meat sandwiches. $$ L D e GUY FIERI'S SMOKEHOUSE 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 919-7299. The latest creation of the Food TV’s bad boy chef caused some serious musing about the meaning of “celebrity” chefs to local eating. But see the hoopla for yourself, and try some of the fried chicken brined in pickle juice, brisket with pomegranate, sorghum-glazed pork chops or Triple Crown grilled cheese sandwich. $$ L D hpf HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 Charlestown-New Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D HOLY SMOKES BAR-B-QUE 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. The former Bootleg Bar-B-Q franchise on Preston Hwy. has become Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que. Owner Mark Weatherholt
smokes his wings for three hours, his ribs and chicken for five, and his pork lingers overnight. He does brown sugar wings, too. $ L D JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a LOUIE’S HOT CHICKEN & BARBECUE 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 709-4274, 505 W. Broadway, 709-5275. The chicken here ranges through 4 levels of heat, the hottest using the notorious ghost pepper. BBQ choices include pulled pork and brisket and smoked wings. $ L D f M&M BBQ 1401 Bluegrass Ave., 996-0163. The Ekklesia Christian Life Ministries operates this BBQ joint that offers rib tips, meat loaf, an assortment of traditional sides, and keeps a limited schedule (Tuesday-Friday, 11:30-7). The food is popular enough that they sometimes sell out, so get there early. $$ L D f MACK BROS BBQ 2700 Rockford Ln., 384-4590. This family owned and operated restaurant serves ribs, rib tips, chicken and sides, including a fan favorite: cornbread salad. $$ L D MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 9337707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D hpf MARK T'S SLAB HOUSE 4912 Preston Hwy., 962-1069. That would be slabs of ribs, of course. A wonderfully direct name for a barbecue restaurant. Several drum-style smokers out front exude a savory cloud, attesting to the work being done inside those drums. $ L D MARTIN'S BAR-B-QUE JOINT 3408 Indian Lake Dr., 2424666, 984 Barret Ave., 242-0020. Pretty famous in Tennessee, Martin’s has 2 locations where Louisvillians can now savor the meats smoked in the open pit (the whole hogs take 24 hours). All dishes, meats, sides and even sauces are made in-house daily. For a different kind of treat, try the smoked turkey sandwich. $$ L D pf MISSION BBQ 4607 Shelbyville Rd., 206-3331, 1213 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 269-3860. The National Anthem is played every day at noon at this Baltimore-based chain, which makes a point of supporting soldiers, firefighters, police officers and other first responders. Look for Texas-inspired brisket, smoked turkey, pulled chicken and pork, and even smoked salmon. There are also ribs, of course, sandwiches and scratch-made sides. $$ L D pf MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 290-7998. The St. Matthews spot garnered so many barbecue fans that a second outlet opened in the East End for the overflow. Knot on your bib for Kansas City-style smoked pork and beef ribs (a house specialty), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. Momma's “2% for Louisville” program steadily donates 2% of earnings to local charities. $$ D f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f PORKLAND BBQ 2519 St. Cecilia St., 890-5988. Created by the non-profit group, Love City, Porkland BBQ’s proceeds benefit community programs for youth and aspiring entrepreneurs. Look for pulled pork and pulled chicken sandwiches, fried fish, rib tips, side items and desserts. A Portland specialty, smoked bologna sandwiches, too. $ L D RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out-only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 11-6 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by the sandwich or by the pound. $ L D
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 63
RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe
the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South. Lunch on nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $ L Df
RUBBIN’ BUTTS BBQ 8007 Highway 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-7266. Up the road a ways you will find this “traditional” BBQ joint with some house specialties not so traditional: smoked deviled eggs, BBQ pork queso and their signature, the BBQ Pig-E-Chonga, a flour shell stuffed with baked beans, cheese, and pulled pork, then deep fried and smothered in queso and BBQ sauce. $ L D
ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. This venerable lunch spot has been recharging the energies of downtown workers for over four decades. Brian Goodwin, son of the late founder and owner, has brightened and modernized the space, and overhauled the menu, looking forward to decades more of lunchtime service. $ L
SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 363-3227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slowsmoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe
BARRY’S CHEESESTEAKS & MORE 1161 S. Second St., 618-2288, 2500 Bardstown Rd. Barry’s version of the classic Philly street food has been getting raves from self-anointed cheesesteak mavens, who approve of his meat, bread and the cheese sauce choices. $ L D
SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 4917570. This Stony Brook-area eatery combines a sports-bar with a barbecue concept. Its large and varied menu includes wings and burgers, steaks and pork chops, and several takes on mac ‘n’ cheese, as well as righteous ribs. $$ L D hp THE WRIGHT HOUSE BBQ + EATERY 638 Providence Way, Clarsville IN, 656-0941. Dalephonia and LaFond Wright have taken over the space that had been Shawn's BBQ. Dale makes the sides while LaFond prepares the baked chicken, pulled pork and chicken, burgers, smoked sausage, pork chops and meatloaf, carrying on the cooking lessons learned from their grandmothers. $ L D
321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. The dining and drinks complex on the corner of Third and Main offers something for everyone. This is the deli component (the others are an ice cream shop and a Bourbon bar), which strives to blend
BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ B L BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1158. The bagel/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fullystaffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $L
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
CHICAGO STEAK & LEMONADE 4501 Cane Run Rd., 3844291, 2124 W. Broadway, 450-5300. This local mini-chain serves a variety of Philly cheese steaks, gyros, lemon-pepper fish dinners and wings. The lemonade comes in a passel of different flavor combos. $ L D h COLD SMOKE BAGELS 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 309-4269. Four kinds every day, with a schmear of your choice. Bagels, sandwiches and the weekend brunch highlights latkes. $ B Br L f DOWNTOWNER DELI 428 W. Market St., 822-3572. This popular nosh spot adds another choice for the working lunch crowd. The soups, salads, sandwiches and wraps have quickly made fans here as well as in its original Madison, IN. location by offering both savory tastes and worth-it portions. $Lf FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3473, 4905 Outer Loop, 749-4257, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 8834168. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRANK'S MEAT & PRODUCE 3342 Preston Hwy., 3633989. Frank’s has been around a long time, treating those in the know to piled-high deli sandwiches for prices so reasonable it might seem you stepped into a time warp. There are steaks and chops and produce and other groceries, but it is best known for lunchtime service, where the long lines move fast, and the constant turnover ensures freshness of sandwiches and soups. $ L D GALAN'S MEAT MARKET & DELI 2801 W. Market St., 6148514. This old-school butcher shop also offers piled-high deli sandwiches and sides such as German potato salad or sour cream macaroni and cheese salad. Eat-in at the handful of small tables or take away. $$ B L D HARVEY’S CHEESE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), (512) 269-8127. Lots of cheeses to choose from over the
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 63
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 64
counter. At lunch, grilled cheese sandwiches (as exotic as you want) and daily blackboard specials. Call ahead to reserve an artistically-arranged and tasty party tray of cheese, charcuterie and fruit. $$ L D f HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D f JASON’S DELI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101. Don’t look for a New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 1983 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-1384. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that include cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (11 Locations) This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LADY TRON’S 147 E. Market St., New Albany, IN 725-9510. Owner Summer Seig has created an eclectic sci-fi theme for her soup and sandwich diner. Outside is Lady Tron, a smiling robot with red hair and a yellow apron; inside, you can find seasonal soups and sandwiches. $ B L D LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semifast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago style hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a fair price. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This familyowned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 37 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand three-deep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f LOUISVILLE VEGAN FOODS 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). Run by the folks at the now-defunct Morels Café, here you can find the original vegan jerky in various flavors, vegan baked goods and some of the former Morels’s other popular dishes. $$ B L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-2700. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5610024. $ B L MCALISTER’S DELI (10 Locations) Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 4581668. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $ L NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L
64 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
PANERA BREAD CO. (11 Locations) Warm breads finishbaked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B LDf PARNELLI'S CHICAGO EATERY 3548 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0025. If you crave Windy City classics like Vienna Beef hot dogs with neon relish or wet Italian beef sandwiches with giardiniera, head to the Jeff suburbs for Chicago specialites, incuding Greektown favorites like gyros and falafel. $ L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 896-8918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PAYNE STREET BAKEHOUSE 225 S. Spring St., 895-8323. Nancy’s Bagel Grounds has remodeled the space that had been Willingers Beer Depot after moving from its longtime digs on Frankfort Ave. Despite the name change, you can still get bagels and cream cheese with your coffee or juices as well as a breakfast sandwich called The Willinger. $ B L PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D PHILLY CHEESESTEAK EXPRESS 12406 La Grange Rd. Lots of dedicated cheesecake fans love this suburban sandwich shop. For devotees, the availability of Cheez Whiz is a mark of authenticity. And they’ve got it! $$ L D f
STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing menu. $ L D SUPERIOR MARKET & DELI 307 W. Broadway, 822-3715. Snack on sandwiches, hot dogs, doughnuts and hot pretzels – or visit the salad bar and a pizza counter. Downtown dwellers will discover a good selection of groceries, including fresh vegetables and paper products, at very unfancy prices. $ B L SWEET PEACHES 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 356-0232. Breakfast, sandwiches and soups are what you will find at this West End spot. And don’t overlook fresh baked goodies like brownies and cookies or the chance to wash them down with peach-flavored sweet tea. This also is the location of the monthly Sweet Peaches Poetry Slam. $ B L D SWEET PEACHES 2 ROLL 2900 W. Broadway (Nia Center), 302-8118. Pam Haines, owner of the popular West Louisville restaurant Sweet Peaches, has opened a quickservice version inside the Nia Center — a meeting place for the neighborhood and a city-organized workforce development center. Patrons and neighbors can meet in the lobby and enjoy coffee, sandwiches, salads and fresh pastries. $ B L
POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 540-1100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616, 9018 Taylorsville Rd., 290-4820. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D
THAT'S MY DOG 125 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville, IN, 3785939. This hot dog and burger joint (with meatless sausages and salads too) joins the still-growing spate of businesses near the sunny side of the Big Four walking bridge. Choose from 30+ toppings as you go through the serving line. Enjoy beer and wine too on the dog-friendly patio seating. $ L D f
PRIMO’S DELICATESSEN 153 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-0491. It’s just what New Albany needed, a little New York style to give East Coast pizzazz to the downtown dining choices. Serving breakfast and lunch, so look for bagels and a schmear, and meaty sandwiches piled high. $ Br L
THE BLOCK GOURMET DELI 14041 Shelbyville Rd., 7854689. A husband and wife team with considerable experience in restaurants runs this Middletown deli. Fans report excellent thick sandwiches, fresh salads and homemade soups. Box lunches and catering also available. $$ L D
QUIZNO’S SUBS 223 S. Fifth St., 589-5520, 11803 Shelbyville Rd., 253-5833, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7849, 220 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-1419. Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L f
THELMA’S DELI 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. Located in the glassed-in walkway (conservatory) between the two hotel towers, Thelma’s provides breakfast items, coffee, sandwiches and snacks 24/7 for Galt House guests and anyone else who needs, say, a pizza at 3 a.m. $$ B L D h
ROADRUNNER KITCHEN 37 Bank St. New Albany IN, 9247024. Stacie Bale, who operated Earth Friends Café, has opened this healthful, grab-and-go lunch spot that offers garden and spinach salads, wraps, falafel, power smoothies, espressos and fresh juices. $ L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 425-8447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B LDf SEEDS AND GREENS NATURAL MARKET & DELI 207 W. First St., New Albany IN, 944-3800. Browse among the organic vegetables and health foods, and stop by the deli for soups and salads, hot and cold sandwiches, vegan, vegetarian and omnivore preparations. $ L D SOUPY’S 3027 Hunsinger Ln., 451-5325. Back in 1987, Danny Bowling’s mother-in-law, Bette, started making pots of soup in a corner of Bowling's Meats & Deli, a family courtesy that led in 1995 to Soupy’s. Now it’s about 2 million cups of soup later, by Soupy’s estimate, all using Bette’s recipes, cooked up in small batches daily. Salads, sandwiches (including veggie burgers) and sweets as well. $ L D
TOONERVILLE DELI 1201 S. First St., 635-6960. Here you will find a full panoply of signature sandwiches (including breakfast sandwiches), soups and salads and beer on draft, or in bottles or cans. $$ L D pf VINAIGRETTE SALAD KITCHEN 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 205-9933. This Lexington-based modestly upscale salad restaurant offers locally sourced soups and salads and fresh lemonade. The menu includes the Bluegrass Blackberry salad; chicken taco and maki shrimp salads; and soups such as creamy tomato and sausage, kale and potato. Be sure to try one of three fresh lemonades on offer daily. $$ L D WHICH WICH? 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 290-3721, 221 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 708-2535, 13124 W. Hwy 42, 2280621, 3531 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0637. The concept here is “create your own sandwich” and draws on 50 toppings choices including sauerkraut, roasted red peppers, crispy onion strings, and hummus. The subs are the draw, but they also have wraps, gyros and now a variety of shakes. $$ B L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that rotate daily. $ LD
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 65
changed as little as possible. The food offerings continue to be diner standards, like what was served when it first opened 50+ years ago. $ B L D BELLA’S DINER 4106 Taylor Blvd., 749-1771. $ L D BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BURGER GIRL 3334 Frankfort Ave., 709-5454. Dan Borsch, who owns the Old Louisville Tavern, Toonerville Deli, Old Louisville Pizza Co. and Burger Boy Diner, has expanded into Crescent Hill. Burger Girl, in the former Bluegrass Burgers space, is a 24-hour burger grill, the sister to longtime somnambulists’ favorite Burger Boy. $$ B L D hf CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The openfaced roast beef sandwich, with mashed potatoes and brussels sprouts, is a F&D favorite. $ L D pf COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 244-9497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent downhome food it has served since 1929. $ L D D. NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. The nostalgia here is almost palpable. The interior has been upgraded, but
DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D EXECUTIVE BISTRO 1930 Bishop Ln. (Watterson Towers) 365-2848. This bright little spot provides grilled sandwiches, soups, salads and snacks to office workers in Watterson Towers. $ B L FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steamtable service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p
from betting. Burgers and sandwiches (including fried bologna), starters like nachos, fried pickles and crab cakes, and soups and salads. Also a grab-and-go menu of wraps, sandwiches and desserts. $ L D h METRO DINER 4901 Outer Loop, 357-0767. The first local outlet of this Florida-based chain features "classic comfort food with flair.” Harking back to the glory days of diners, Metro Diner offers breakfast, lunch and dinner menus all day long. Signature dish is fried chicken and waffles, with burgers, seafood and salads also available. $$ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steamtable favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp
FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 883-1462. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in downhome comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ LD
SANDI'S KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-4823. Good ol' southern hospitality and home-made food are the draws at this modest place in the far southwest of the city. The menu includes chicken-fried steak, meatloaf and liver and onions. $BLD
GERALDINE’S KITCHEN 402 Wall St., Jeffersonville IN, 9247707. Geraldine is the late mother of owner/chef Bob Hoyland; Geraldine’s Kitchen is a tribute to her sense of hospitality. Breakfast and lunch are served in an inviting, homey atmosphere. $ B L
THE COZY KITCHEN 1554 Bardstown Rd., 451-0024. This little take-out spot in the Highlands offers familiar, homecooked style meals with a rotating menu. Among the choices, depending on the day, are chicken and dumplings, red chili, mac and cheese, pot roast, butternut squash soup. Dinners come with 2 sides. $ L D
GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 339-8070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D HOSANNA'S KITCHEN 139 S. 44th St., 778-0085. This far West End soul food place has emblematic southern comfort food: fried or baked chicken, fried fish, salmon croquettes, pork chops in gravy, long-cooked green beans, pinto beans, cabbage and baked apples. $ L D LIL' WAGNERS 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. A sit-down restaurant when you need a break
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L
BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 7729580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 65
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 66
West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D
and Philly cheesesteak fries (topped with steak, green onions, green peppers, mozzarella and cheddar cheese). Owner Mary Jenefor occasionally gives free meals to those in need in the community. $ L D
BOOK & BOURBON SOUTHERN KITCHEN 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). This library-themed concept at this upscale, airport dining venue offers more than 100 bourbons, along with a classic craft cocktail list. The food menu tweaks Southern comfort food with items such as fried green tomato Benedict and buttermilk fried chicken and waffles. $$ B L D h p
SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D
BRAMBLE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 715-7618. Like most in the Market, Bramble is a counter service spot, serving up Southern food at all three meals. Look for pork belly Reubens and daily lunch specials, and Atlanta brisket (marinated in Coca-Cola) and espresso-rubbed pork belly. $$ L D f
SOUL FOOD DINING 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 915-8239. A cafeteria-style restaurant that offers all that a soul food fan would want: BBQ chicken, meatloaf, ribs, pork chops (with or without gravy), catfish, buffalo, and whiting, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, greens, green beans, sweet potatoes and slaw. $$ L D
DAISY MAE’S 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 944-8101. Daisy Mae’s offers southern food and hospitality. The menu includes fried chicken and cod, meatloaf, mashed potatoes, collards and pinto bean soup every day. Look for daily specials that include a regularly rotating fruit cobbler and red velvet cake. $ L D f
SOUTHERN EXPRESS 418 W. Oak St., 963-1719. This wellknown West End carryout spot has moved into a sit-down location in Old Louisville. There, classic soul food is served for eat-in or takeout and at rock-bottom prices. Diners build their own meal at $1 per item. Choices vary daily, but look for fried chicken, cooked cabbage, fried whiting, pork roast, fried or smothered pork chops, mac and cheese and rib tips. $LDf
DASHA BARBOUR’S SOUTHERN BISTRO 2217 Steier Ln., 882-2081, 1300 Muhammad Ali Blvd., 749-0094. The Buechel location certainly gives the “bistro” concept a downhome Southern twist. Both locations serve familiar homestyle fried chicken and fish, a vegetable plate with three sides choices, burgers, pork chop sandwich, and chicken wings. Sides include sweet potato casserole studded with pecans, fried corn on the cob and collard greens. $$ B L D FLO'S HOUSE OF SOUL 3400 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 966-2213. You order at the window and eat on the patio, which has heaters for cooler weather and TVs for watching big games. Owner Jason Hatcher tries to do good for his community, offering food rewards to kids with good report cards. Choices include burgers, chili dogs, Philly cheesesteaks, whiting and catfish sandwiches, nachos and ice cream. $$ Br D hpf FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $LD LUCRETIA’S KITCHEN 1812 West Muhammad Ali Blvd. (Chef Space), 294-8143. It’s Wing Wednesday, Rib Tip Thursday, Fried Fish Friday and Soul Food Sunday at this ambitious little startup operating in the business incubator in the near West End. $$ Br L D MAMA’S KITCHEN CARRYOUT 603 N. 26th St., 565-5760. This little West End order-at-the-window place serves up sandwiches, snacks (with 1 side), dinners (with 2) – things like hot dogs, pulled pork and chicken, meatloaf, smothered pork chops and fried chicken and fish on Fridays. $ L D MATTIE'S KITCHEN 1018 S. 15th St., (St. Stephens Family Life Center), 544-8954. Open Wednesdays and Fridays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for after-church dining. The flexible menu can list fried or baked chicken, pork chops, mac n’ cheese, spaghetti and meatballs, and on Fridays, catfish is a special. $ Br L MISS ADA’S 510 E. Chestnut St., 561-3762. $ L SCENE 501 W. Main St. Scene is the latest dining venture in the space at the Kentucky Center for the Arts that has seen a lot of things come and go. Open before shows for drinks and small plate dining served in the fast-casual style. Flatbreads, burgers, pasta dishes, crab cakes; a small but good wine and beer selection and a full bar. $$ D hp SHINE'S DINER 3400 W. Market St., 510-9310. This West End restaurant sells soul food, seafood, burgers and wings 66 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY 3402 W. Broadway, 822-1474. A family sports bar that satisfies all ages with its homey atmosphere and its well-crafted familiar food like double cheeseburgers, fried chicken with hot water cornbread, catfish, wings and ribs. $ L D hp SUE'S TOUCH OF COUNTRY 2605 Rockford Ln., 450-5059. Sue’s provides Shively with the kind of “stick to your ribs” food you go to a country/family style restaurant for. Daily Specials, homemade desserts and breakfast served all day. $ BLD V-GRITS 1025 Barret Ave., 742-1714. Vegan food truck V-Grits has settled down in the former Monkey Wrench corner and is cooperating there with False Idol Brewers. V-Grits co-owner Kristina Addington defines her menu as “southern comfort food, stick to your ribs, healthy junk food.” $$ L D hpf VIBES RESTAURANT & ULTRA LOUNGE 1346 River Rd., 568-6691. This sleek, chic, eclectic music and food venue is in the former Relish building. Vibes serves bar bites such as burgers and sandwiches, appetizers, loaded hot dogs and entrees like wings, tenders, shrimp and fish at lunch, brunch and dinner. $$ Br L D hpe
CRAVINGS ALA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 584-6846. This thrifty deli offers a variety of buildyour-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes and a monthly ethnic creation. $L GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 5362 Dixie Hwy., 447-6660, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D
B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Center), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp BARRELHOUSE ON MARKET 1005 W. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-6373. Andrew and Michelle Collins renovated a down-to-the-heels dive bar into a spiffy, lively drinking establishment and music venue with a small, tasty menu: a slider assortment, buffalo and BBQ wings, pretzels and queso. $$ D hpfe
BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 409-9422. Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a satisfying place to dine. The BBQ comes as pulled chicken, pork and brisket in sandwiches or full dinners. $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 11324 Preston Hwy., 969-5559, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D hf BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 893-4487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf BITTERS END 101 W. Main St. (Hotel Distil), 716-7373. Hotel Distil’s rooftop bar provides signature cocktails and shareable small plates along with expansive views of downtown and the river. Oysters, steak tartare and soybraised short ribs are on the menu, as well as intriguing beverage options like a blueberry-sage sour and a raspberrythyme Sidecar. $$$ L D hpf BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 9900 Linn Station Rd., 326-9830, 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200030. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his two sports pubs, the area’s official homes for Cincinnati Bengals fans. $ L D hpfe BUBBA'S 33 4631 Medical Plaza Way, Clarksville IN, 2845933. The 12th location of the growing chain from the guys at Texas Roadhouse, Bubba’s is a family friendly sports bar with TVs galore and corn hole boards on the patio. The menu offers chicken with two types of bacon, chili-rubbed salmon, smoked chipotle wings, a spicy habanero burger and pizzas. $$ D p BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131, 9119 Galene Dr., 409-6066. This wellestablished Shively tavern has added a second location in Jeffersontown. It’s noted for excellent service and honest bar food that consistently receives high praise. Signature dishes — “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), as well as burritos and barbecue — are now available at both locations. $ L D hpfe BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe BUTCHER BLOCK EATERY AT HIGH HORSE 1032 Story Ave., 690-5020. The High Horse Bar, which now occupies the home of the legendary Do Drop Inn, serves edibles from a food window dubbed Butcher Block Eatery. Allan Rosenberg, late of Butchertown Pizza Hall, supervises. His menu features crab tater tots, a pork belly grilled cheese, and tacos. Poutine, beer cheese and deviled eggs are on hand as well. $$ D hpe DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 8957513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. St. Matthews’ newest restaurateur star, Jared Matthews, began his career here, revitalizing this neighborhood institution for a new generation. Both locations (the second at the old silos on the edge of downtown) are major music venues. The food is just what happy concert-goers look for: pizza, burgers, wings, beer cheese, sandwiches and wraps.$ L D hpfe DIAMOND STREET GRUB & HOPS 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 709-5113. Jared Matthews’ St. Matthews restaurant empire grows again with a cosmopolitan street food and craft beer restaurant that replaces the recently shuttered Mellow Mushroom pizzeria. Expect to find every street-style food one can think of: Thai wings, elotes, Philly cheesesteaks, a Chicagostyle hot dog called The Wrigley and Korean meatballs among other items familiar and exotic. $$ L D hpfe
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 67
DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has two local outlets that offer twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf
HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 5845222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but owner Tommy Clemons’ menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty or the French toast sausage. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe
DUNDEE TAVERN 2224 Dundee Rd., 458-6637. After a few flips and changes, Dundee Tavern has found its soul again as a neighborhood bar. A lot of beer choices on draft and in bottles, and a comfort food menu that includes wings and fingers, fried pickles, chili, burgers and sandwiches and Tavern Specialties like grilled flat iron steak and southernfried cod. $$ L D hp
HILLCREST TAVERN 3212 Frankfort Ave., 290-6917. Dan Borsch, who runs several Old Louisville spots like Burger Boy Diner and Old Louisville Tavern, has expanded into Clifton with this renovation of a long-time neighborhood watering hole. The menu mirrors that of Old Louisville Tavern, with burgers, sandwiches, appetizers and a few entrée items. A vintage 100-year old bar will anchor the nostalgic ambiance. $$ L D hpe
FALLS CITY TAPROOM 901 E. Liberty St., 257-7147. This historic brand that was first brewed in 1905 has been revived (2010) and re-imagined as a modern craft beer. Now you can sip on their offerings at their new taproom and beer garden operating just east of downtown where Phoenix Hill and NuLu merge. Food is also offered tableside from the adjacent Bandido Taqueria Mexicana. $$ L D hpf FIRST STRING BAR AND GRILL 5921 New Cut Rd., 3660049. This South End sports bar offers pizza, baked spaghetti, fried bologna sandwiches and Cajun dry rub chicken wings. $$ L D hpe FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf GROWLER USA 3010 Gottbrath Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 7482622. This expanding franchise operation offers local and regional craft beers, draught wines (served out of the barrel), hard ciders and kombucha. Let their cicerone lead you to beverage pairings with their familiar, hearty pub menu – lots of burgers, beer cheese soup, salads and sandwiches, and a limited entree selection. $$$ L D hpf GYPSY’S SPORTS GRILLE 7207 Fegenbush Ln., 909-0922. “Gypsy” is the name of the owner’s rescued Boston terrier. The husband-wife team who own this Fern Creek hangout offer all that a sports fan could want: wings and ribs, nachos, potato skins, fried pickles, sandwiches, pork chops and steaks. $$ L D hpfe HARRY’S 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN. Harry's, named after owner Tony Revak's son, takes over a riverfront patio (previously occupied by Flat 12 Bierwerks). Executive Chef Tyler Vogt’s southern Creole cuisine — cast iron chicken, frog legs, intercultural hybrids like a Creole catfish po’boy topped with kimchi aioli — is paired up with craft beer, Bourbon and great views. $$ L D hpfe HELL OR HIGH WATER 112 W. Washington St., 5873057. The entrance is through Hello Curio, an ostensible arts and crafts gallery. Downstairs is the main bar in a two-story library with a mezzanine floor, looking out onto a small live entertainment area. Craft cocktails are bourbon-focused but not exclusively. There is a small bites menu, but drinks are the center of the “speakeasy” experience. $$ D hpe
HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have settled in at this prime Clifton location. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 239-4724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot that boasts 3 different steak sandwiches, along with pizza, burgers and chicken. $ L D hpf HOPCAT 1064 Bardstown Rd., 890-8676. This Highlands attraction seats up to 300 in the dining room, three private party rooms and a covered second floor patio. HopCat touts its 132 craft beers on tap, at least 30 of which are locally made, as the largest selection in Kentucky. Lunch and dinner offers homemade pub grub: burgers, mac & cheese, Detroitstyle square pizza with cheesy crust, and signature “crack fries.” Saturday and Sunday brunch as well. $$ Br L D hpf INTERNATIONAL TAP HOUSE 637 E. Main St. The St. Louis-based chain has opened on the ground floor of the Main & Clay apartment building. Not a brewery, but a purveyor of hundreds of craft beers, ciders and a limited selection of wine. Patrons are invited to bring in food from neighboring businesses. $$ p f J-TOWN BEACH 10315 Watterson Trl., 558-0881. This family fun sports complex offers sand volleyball leagues and also offers Quills coffee and Comfy Cow ice cream. $ L D hpfe JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 288-2100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 449-4940. $ BLD KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern, a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978, offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and soups. The hamburgers, though, might be the best unpretentious burgers in town: freshly ground daily, always cooked perfectly, and served on a toasted bun. $ L D pf KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp LOUISVILLE INTERNATIONAL PUB 5343 Mitscher Ave. 384-3952. A neighborhood bar with an international focus. Eclectic bar food options cover the globe with dinner and sandwich options like nachos, chili, falafel, poppers, burgers, kabobs, and shawarma.$ L D hp
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 67
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 68
MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 9458915. A friendly tavern up in the Knobs above New Albany. $LDp NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p
ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe
NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe
SCOOTER'S TRIPLE B’S 3840 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 6537536. The three Bs are for burgers, beer, and ballgames. Choose from three kinds of buns and six meat fillings. The menu includes chicken, pizza and 1/4 pound hot dogs too. $$ L D hf
NIRVANA 1047 Bardstown Rd., 712-0813. Nirvana has become a Highlands entertainment destination with live shows most nights. Darnell Ferguson, of Super Chefs, has taken over the kitchen, so look for his takes on the eclectic menu: bang bang cauliflower, bougie fries, dog bone wings and the McNasty sandwich. $$ L D hpe
SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h
OLD HICKORY INN 1038 Lydia St., 634-3011. The Schnitzelburg building has been around forever, has suffered indignities, like a fire that gutted it, but has always bounced back. Now it has expanded its presence with a new kitchen, outdoor deck and a food menu aimed to be competitive with other Germantown hangouts. $ L D hp
SHOPBAR 950 Barret Ave., 709-4696. The former gas station has been converted into a small artisanal boutique and welcoming bar with a food truck — FoodShop at the rear. The menu rotates, but recently it included fried white fish, a pork jowl sandwich served on a pretzel bun, and mushroom tostadas. $ Br D hpf
OLD LOUISVILLE TAVERN 1532 S. Fourth St., 637-4200. It’s risen from the ashes, the interior gutted and redone, a new kitchen installed, but the menu is the same as before: top-flight bar grub made from scratch. An expanded beer program with 16 new taps includes a selection of local and craft beers. $$ L D hpf
THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf
O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3846171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp PEARL STREET TAPHOUSE 407 Pearl Street, Jeffersonville IN, 285-0890. Located in an historic home that was saved through a preservation grant, this pub has 24 taps with a heavy focus on local breweries, with regional and national choices as well. Food choices range from pizzas to baconwrapped dates to corned beef grilled cheese sandwiches. Everything is fresh and nothing is deep-fried. $ L D p f PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D h p PINTS&UNION 114 E. Market St., New Albany IN., 9134647. Beer maven (and F&D contributor) Roger Baylor and partner Joe Phillips have renovated an old neighborhood bar, where the taps dispense familiar quality beers and ales, the bar crafts interesting cocktails and the bottled beer selection skews toward Belgian ales. The small kitchen offers pubinspired small plates with an Indian accent. $ L D hp PORCH KITCHEN & BAR 280 W. Jefferson St. (Marriott), 671-4246. As part of the recent renovation of the Marriott, this all-day restaurant replaces Champions Sports Grill. The name reflects the intention of the new restaurant to be a homey, welcoming downtown spot. Look for American-style comfort foods and a friendly bar. B Br L D hpfe RECBAR 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 509-3033, 336 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 670-5234. Family fun is the object here, with games galore: pool and ping-pong, skeeball, arcade games (for Nintendo, Sega Genesis, Super NES) and card and board games. A full bar and pub-style food, too. $$ L D hp RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 6905111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, half-pint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf
68 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 5846630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 588-8888. This spacious sports bar adds to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. $$ D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 4510659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf THE EARL 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-2611. This bar offers craft cocktails and upscale bar food such as spicy pimento cheese with pretzel bread, cheese and charcuterie boards, and roasted cauliflower with bleu cheese. $$ D hp THE GOAT 700 Landis Ridge Dr., 437-3000. Ohio-based LC Lifestyle Communities operates this small chain of unusually named upscale-casual restaurants. Enjoy Italian pizza rolls, stuffed potatoes, salads, “double-grind” burgers, wings, pizza, wraps and craft beer on the expansive deck or around the community pool, or join one of the competitive leagues in euchre, corn hole or volleyball. $$ L D hpfe THE LIBRARY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. By day, the Library serves coffee, lattes and tea along with freshly baked pastries. By late afternoon, it morphs into a bourbon bar with locally inspired cocktails. $ B L hp THE PEARL 1151 Goss Ave., 996-7552. The Pearl aims to be a classic neighborhood pub (not unlike Pauly’s, which it replaces). It also aims to be a spirits-focused hangout, with a bar menu limited to snacks like pickled eggs, country ham
and cheese sandwiches and free popcorn or roasted nuts. In the works is a permanent food truck to be parked in the rear to expand food offerings. $$ L D hpf THE WATER COMPANY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. There is a 3rd-floor rooftop pool at the new Omni Hotel, and this is the bar that goes with it, also offering seasonally-inspired light bites. $$ L D p f TIM TAM TAVERN 1022 Clarks Ln., 883-0101. Named for the 1958 Kentucky Derby winner, the Schnitzelburg/ Audubon neighborhood bar has a new look and a kitchen that serves bar staples like burgers, fried pickles and cheese curds plus pizza from Danny Mac’s Pizza. (Dan McMahon, owner of Danny Mac’s Pizza, is a partner.) $ L D p fe TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashvillebased chain in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage pinball and electronic games, and the Beer Can Collection is as long as your arm. The chow is high-quality bar grub — things like wings, sandwiches, salads, and the Death Star cookie, baked in a skillet and topped with ice cream. And top-flight live music late into the night. $ L D hpfe
AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 5150174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 5894843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run this brewery in Butchertown, dedicated to fresh craft beer in a space that heats with solar, recycles and reuses materials and grains. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 300 W. Main St., 5620007, 660 S. Fourth St., 899-7070. BBC has reopened its Theater Square outlet, right in front of the Kindred expansion, which displaced the former restaurant/beer pub. The Main St. location does the brewing, and upstairs boasts a Bourbon lounge. At both locations, the food is as good as the beer, and that says a lot. $$ L D hpfe DONUM DEI BREWERY 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 590-2478. Owner Rick Otey maintains that beer is a gift from god, hence the name of his craft brewery. The interior is starkly Scandinavian modern. A distilling permit has made it the area’s first “brewstillery.” $ L D hp FLOYD COUNTY BREWING CO. 129 W. Main St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Walk in this new brewpub and you will find what looks like a medieval banquet hall, but scaled down to a Yorkshire public house. Brewer Jeff Coe’s repertoire includes Braun Jovi (Brown Ale), Hefe’ns Gate Hefeweizen and Vlad’s India Pale Ale, which complement perfectly menu items like fish and chips and oversized turkey legs. $ L D h GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:44 AM Page 69
restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottom-fermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pub-grub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf
HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-squarefoot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe
GRAVELY BREWING CO. 514 Baxter Ave., 822-3202. Gravely offers 14 draft choices, all brewed and served on site. The brewery partners with Mayan Street Food, run by The Mayan Café. Walk up to the truck and order snacks like guacamole, fried plantains, Mexican corn, salbutes or tacos. Brunch on Sunday is provided by Commonwealth Cure with items like pork hash, Scotch eggs, or pork sliders. Plus, a full brunch drink selection. $ Br L D hpfe
JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf
GREAT FLOOD BREWING CO. 2120 Bardstown Rd, 2080882, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 208-0882. The original Douglass Loop location is just a taproom, with no food service. The Middletown taproom occupies a former Wick’s Pizza complete with a kitchen that offers pizza and other pub fare made on site. $$ L D hpf HOMETOWN BREWING CO. 4041 Preston Hwy., 3634880. Tom Brown, partner in the Hometown Pizza chain, and high school friend Mark Allgeier, owner of the nowclosed Cumberland Brewery, have opened this craft brewery in the space where Brown has stored his car collection, which inspire the names of his beers. His goal is to make craft beer more accessible in small towns out in the state, where Hometown Pizza has 18 scattered locations. $$$ L D hpf MONNIK BEER CO. 1036 E. Burnett Ave., 742-6564. The gastropub style menu includes a range of Euro-inspired pub food like three kinds of double-fried fries, fried smelts, a ploughman’s plate, pork and black currant pie, sauerbraten, and burgers. The beer menu adds changing guest brews to the house menu of Mild George and King George (British style brown ales), His Dark materials (a stout) and Hauck’s American pilsner. $$ L D hpfe
MAIN EVENT BAR & GRILL 12500 Sycamore Station Pl., 240-5555. This Dallas-based chain offers plenty of fun: bowling, laser tag, a high ropes course, billiards, video games — along with pizzas, sandwiches, full dinners and a full bar. $$ L D hp MESA 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 725-7691. Mesa calls itself a “collaborative kitchen-classroom,” in which local established and aspiring chefs offer cooking demonstrations and food prep advice for a small audience, who will then eat what the chefs prepare before them. There is also a boutique selling high-end cookware and food products. $$ D p MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p OVRDRIVE GAMES 112 W. Jefferson St., 653-5853. Plenty of ways to have fun here: virtual reality car racing, ax throwing, rage rooms (where you can destroy TVs and home appliances), and immersive VR games. The food and beverages aren’t virtual though: made-to-order pizza, wings and appetizers, and a self-pour tap wall featuring 15 beers and 6 pre-mixed cocktail choices. $$ L D hp
PIN + PROOF 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The Omni’s bar has a cool angle. There are four bowling lanes, as well as hors d’oeuvres to enjoy in the “the opulent and mysterious atmosphere." $ D hp THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. The second floor theater continues to be a top local venue for all sorts of theater, improv and silly/hilarious roasts of toys (Barbie), computer game characters (Mario) and years (2017). Downstairs, the menu offers Shakespeare-themed items such as Sir Francis BBQ Bacon Burger and The Steakspeare. $$ D hpfe
ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h AFRICA HOUSE LOUNGE & CAFÉ 2816 Crums Ln., 3847240. West African and Jamaican cuisine, a full service bar and Reggae and Afrobeats on the sound track. The unique taste here is the Ghanaian shito sauce, a complex hot and tangy condiment. $ L D h BARAKA RESTAURANT 519 W. Oak St., 822-3046. This allhalal restaurant serves African, Asian and Indian dishes. At the counter you pick a meat and choose an accompaniment of rice, bread or noodles. The fish curry with chapati and chicken saqaar with rice are good examples. Goat is often available for those who want to try something different. $ L D FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and
OUR LADY OF PERPETUAL HOPS 300 Foundation Ct., New Albany IN. This brewery offers 12 taps (currently 8 house and 4 guest taps), as well as plenty of space for playing games like cornhole, darts, Jenga; pool, and video golf. If you work up an appetite, food trucks will tend your hunger on Friday and Saturday nights. $$ D he PUBLIC HOUSE BY AGAINST THE GRAIN 1576 Bardstown Rd., 409-9866. After almost 20 years of fine craft brewing, Cumberland Brews founder Mark Allgeier has passed the taps over to the guys at Against the Grain, who have redubbed the popular Highlands space the Public House. All the taps serve ATG brews (to-go growlers are available). The menu features pub grub with a twist, including burgers, paninis, pimento cheese balls and French onion soup. Brunches promise to be destination weekend events. $$ Br L D hpf RED YETI BREWING CO. 256 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-5788. This craft brewery has an ambitious kitchen touting food so fresh in concept, they have no freezer. The brisket sandwich comes with house-made chips, the pork ribs are braised in wheat ale, and desserts include funnel cake with chocolate dipping fondue and a beer float: vanilla ice cream in your choice of porter or stout. $$ L D hp
DAVE & BUSTER'S 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews), 963-0940. Fun galore with arcade, billiards, sports TVs, and a 16 page menu with surprising options for every special diet like flavorful lettuce wraps, the Impossible Burger and full entrees like steaks or salmon plus expected bar fare: nachos, sliders and wings. Desserts, beers and festive cocktails of impressive size, too. $$ L D hp DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$ L D pe
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 69
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 70
Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. $$ L D IMANKA RESTAURANT 737 S. Eighth St., (International Mall) 210-7503. Somali immigrant entrepreneur Mohamed Abbi Abdalla and his family serve their native cuisine at the International Mall. Suggested dishes include chicken suqaar (a chicken stew-like dish) or goat seasoned with onions and green peppers. $$ L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4109 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $LD SAFARI CAFÉ & INTERNATIONAL KITCHEN 5600 S. Third St. Another choice in the growing list of African restaurants in town. The Safari is run by Somali entrepreneurs, offering inexpensive, authentic Somali, coffee drinks, and a lively atmosphere. $$ B L D h SANAG II RESTAURANT 5312 S. Third St., 882-2210. Iroquois Manor’s great selection of international dining choices expands again with the addition of this Somali eatery. Look for spiced rice dishes with goat meat, chicken sukhar, chapati with chopped chicken, and foo-foo with spinach, cabbage and carrots. $$ B L ZIBA’S BISTRO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 7970633. The rich cuisine of his native Burkina Faso in Central West Africa is Chef Bapion Ziba’s main inspiration, but he brings elements of European and American flavors too. Tiguedigue chicken, cooked with vegetables in a peanut sauce, will be a signature dish. $$
CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BISTRO 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $LD CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222, 9246 Westport Rd., 425-1818. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA CHEF 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 384-5322. Pretty standard Chinese choices can be found at this new store in the South End. Eat in or carry out. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D CHINA DRAGON 8507 Terry Rd., 995-9897. The far southwest corner of the city can get its Chinese table hot food fix here. $ L D h CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500, 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. $ L D CHINA STAR 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 896-1818. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 2845580. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. Fans of this somewhat funky Chinese place post positive notices about the quality of its food. No strange Asian dishes here, just familiar Chinese hot table fare that Americans recognize. $LD CHUNG KING PALACE 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D
888 GREAT WALL 9464 Brownsboro Rd., 425-2811. Strip mall Chinese food is an accurate description of what to expect here. Locals from the neighborhood have said good things about the garlic chicken and their crab Rangoon. $ L D
DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. Every neighborhood seems to need a Chinese steam table outlet serving up Asian dishes familiar to Americans. Double Dragon does that job for its neighborhoods. $ L D
A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D
DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3135 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D
ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9451888. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes this buffet a good choice among the many of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN WOK 2235 Frankfort Ave., 822-3285. This pan-Asian spot offers a very large selection of Chinese & Japanese dishes in the stir-fried, hibachi-grilled and sushi categories. A lot of familiar things — Kung Pao chicken, pepper steak with onion, veggie fried rice, rainbow roll, hibachi steak, and so on. $$ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style, consistent commitment from the kitchen makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant al fresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D 70 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2675353.$LD DRAGON CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-1885. This Prospect-area Chinese restaurants offers many familiar dishes. East End fans say the service is quick and the food above-average tasty. $ L D EAST STAR BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588, 6413 Greenwood Rd., 935-6611. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h THE GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth
publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI BUFFET 5372 Dixie Hwy., 449-8688. This far South Louisville Asian buffet gets strong positives from locals who appreciate its cleanliness, its range of choices (including hibachi grilled meats to order and sushi) and a buffet bar that is kept freshly loaded. $ L D p HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228, 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 367-8828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check out the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace offers familiar Chinese food choices, as well as a long list of Chef’s Specials, with names in Chinese characters as well as English (a sure sign you are in for authentic Chinese fare). Dim sum is offered daily, but on weekends it is served from a traditional rolling cart. $$ Br L D hp JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. Like many Chinese restaurants, Jasmine is in a strip mall, but this is not just another hot table stir fry joint. There is an American menu, but those in the know will ask for the 14-page Szechuan menu, featuring such interesting things as pig ear in sesame oil, hot and spicy intestines, spicy diced rabbit foot, frog legs, beef maw and tendon Szechuan style — one of the most popular choices, the manager said. $ L D p JASMINE ASIAN BISTRO 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 618-3000. The owners of Jasmine Essential Chinese on English Villa Dr. have gone more upscale with this bistro-style location. Expect the same authentic Chengdu-style Sichuan cuisine (be adventurous!) and well-executed Americanized dishes, sushi and other offerings. $$ L D p THE JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070, 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 618-1601. This fine Asian restaurant across from Mid-City Mall has opened a suburhan site too. Both serve familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as authentic Taiwanese offerings. Duck dishes are cooked in three different styles — Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing. $$ L D hpf JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatownstyle glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h L & J ASIAN CUISINE 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8399. This Pan-Asian spot in the Kroger-anchored strip center at Hwy. 42 near River Rd. offers a large familiar Chinese selection that also includes Vietnamese, Thai and Japanese dishes, and a good vegetarian selection. $$ L D f LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 71
ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f ORIENTAL CAFÉ 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this long-standing St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional ChineseAmerican and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINA 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN 2880774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-8430, 13311 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3980, 10600 Westport Rd., 425-1678. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have four. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D PEKING CITY EXPRESS 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 891-0388. A lot of familiar items on the menu here, but those in the know ask for a Chinese menu, and order the dumplings or the xiao long bao (steam bun with meat filling). Dishes are handsomely presented, and servings are large. $$ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D RICE BOX 6810 Southside Dr., 380-2209. This typical Chinese hot table provides South End residents with the kind of Chinese food you would expect at budget prices. $ L D SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and wellmade dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sit-down Chinese restaurant has a large and eclectic menu, with lots of spicy dishes and daily double shot specials at the inviting bar. Now offering delivery to Norton Commons and adjacent suburbia. $$ L D hp WEI WEI CHINESE EXPRESS 526 S. Fifth St., 889-0827. $ LD YANG KEE NOODLE 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 245-9264. This locally owned and operated colorful and stylish fast-casual restaurant offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOKI BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-2277. A Chinese foodoriented buffet, with sushi as well, offers more options near the Jeffersontown Industrial Park along the Blankenbaker Rd. corridor. $$ L D YOU-A CARRY OUT-A 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 2828881, 621 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-1788. $ L D YUMMY CHINA 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h
ASIAN / FILIPINO LOLA'S KITCHEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 290-6649. This Filipino restaurant reveals a cuisine that is a fusion of Spanish, Chinese, American and indigenous culture. Menu highlights: chicken/pork adobo, beef Kaldareta (beef stew in tomato sauce), and chicken arroz caldo, chicken cooked in a ginger-based broth, served with a hardboiled egg atop Chinese rice porridge. $$ Br L D f
AJI SUSHI AND ASIAN CUISINE 5610 Outer Loop, 2052477. Okolona area residents can now get their sushi fix. The extensive menu offerings include egg rolls, salads and soups, noodle, rice and curry dishes, and tempura, as well as a large variety of raw and cooked sushi preparations. $ LDp ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Arata is a dedicated sushi place, with only a few items that fall outside of the maki, nigri and sashimi offerings. The elegant modern interior, and the commitment to the freshest ingredients have been drawing in fans from beyond the East End. $$ L D hp ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses a neighborhood sushi spot that also serves grilled dishes and tempura. $ L D CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 6322444, 129 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-8600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 749-8878. A one-stop Asian restaurant. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D hp HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofu-making room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651, 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. A second location takes over the downtown space from the former Caviar. $$$ L D hp JUNO 5406 Antle Dr., 409-7094. A wide-ranging menu of Japanese options make this an interesting destination on the southern edge of the Metro — just off Preston Highway on the far side of the Gene Snyder. Diners have plenty of sushi options, as well as hibachi dinners, yakisoba, udon and ramen noodle dishes, tonkatsu and tempura. $$ L D p KAI LANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets its own sushi bar, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 6181870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h MISAWA HIBACHI & SUSHI BAR 7931 Bardstown Rd., 290-1780 The hibachi grills here are not for show, just for grilling, which keeps prices lower than other Japanese steak houses. Rodeleo See, a sushi chef with almost two decades of experience runs the sushi bar. $$ L D p MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quick-eating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot serves all the popular maki and nigri near Bowman Field. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D POKEHANA 436 W. Market St., 996-7994. Poke, an increasingly popular Hawaiian raw fish salad, is given a fastcasual Asian fusion twist here in the space that had been Chop Chop Salads. Choose your combination of protein and vegetables and toppings such as ginger, jalapeno and seaweed salad. Also fried rice, bibimbab and noodle-bab, made with sweet potato noodles.$$ L RAMEN HOUSE 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 7094374. Next to the Baxter Avenue Cinemas, Jonathan Ham, who formerly owned the popular Ramen Inochi, expanded his culinary range with a menu that includes traditional ramen, rice bowls, steamed buns and handmade gyoza. $$ D h ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Veteran restaurateur Coco Tran looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “fullservice” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D SAMURAI 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Middletown gets some artistic sushi, as well as hibachi-grilled steak and seafood. Teppan-style (food cooked on an iron griddle) lunch and dinner entrees are a specialty. $$ L D p SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. The remodeled Highlands location has an expanded kitchen, new sushi bar and new fixtures, giving trendy, glitzy Sapporo new bona fides as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ L D hp SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Jeffersonville joins the sushi craze with its own www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020
71
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 72
source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D SUSHI MASTER 9415 Norton Commons Blvd., 890-5157. This traditional Japanese restaurant offers sashimi, classic sushi rolls, noodle dishes such as udon and cold soba and entrees such as teriyaki chicken, and grilled fish. A few Korean dishes such as bulgogi are on offer too. $$ L D pf TOGO SUSHI 700 Lyndon Ln., 883-0666. ToGo offers primarily drive-thru sushi-to-go, but it does have a five-seat bar and three two-top tables inside. Owner Chet Gurun also owns Samurai Sushi & Hibachi in Middletown and is also part owner of Oishii Sushi near Bowman Field. If sushi isn’t your thing, there are items like fried oysters, fried calamari and shrimp tempura, as well as some vegetarian options. $$ LD TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 3397171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-0200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p TSUBAKI SUSHI & BAR 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A new addition to Jasmine, many people’s favorite Chinese restaurant in town. Look for both raw and cooked two-piece nigiri and three-piece Sashimi, a variety of vegetable rolls and deep fried rolls, and special rolls almost beyond counting. $$ L D p WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. This Highlands sushi and Asian fusion spot has a sushi bar up front, and a pan-Asian menu in the back dining room. Entrees include standard Japanese entrées such as teriyuaki chicken, Japanese curry, and soba and udon noodle dishes. $$ L D hp YAMATO JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 590-1380. A lot of Japanese food preparations are on the menu at this southern Indiana restaurant, located between State Street and Green Vallley Road. Offerings include: ramen bowls and bento boxes, yaki soba and sushi rolls, and steak, chicken or seafood hibachi grilled dishes. $$ L D
GOGI 1055 KOREAN BBQ 1055 Bardstown Rd., 747-4644. The old neighborhood theater that recently housed Buffalo Wild Wings has become home to a grill-your-own-bulgogi table-side Korean restaurant. The interior has been gutted and redone, and gas grills at the tables will allow for tableside grilling of meat to one’s own preference. $$$$ D hp KIM & BAB 3012 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN, 725-9844. This little Korean restaurant is getting rave notices from locals who love the mandu (dumplings), japchae (a noodle dish), galbi (short ribs) and dak-kangjung (fried marinated boneless chicken in a spicy sweet and sour sauce). More familiar things like bulgogi and fried rice too. $$ L D KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D p LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h 72 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
RICE BOWL 3114 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 590-6786. Rice Bowl is another addition to the restaurant row area near the IUS campus. It serves Korean and Asian dishes. You will find clay pot bibimbap, chicken curry rice, several varieties of ramen. $$ L D SARANG 1908 Eastern Pkwy., 709-4282. The store on the Eastern Parkway side of the Schuster Building most recently was a Ce Fiori yogurt shop, but it now serves Korean food such as bibimbap, mandoo, ramen and dak-kangjung. Bubble tea is back, too. $ L D
MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jefferson-ville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarianand vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, wellmade sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TANTHAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The menu covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D TIME 4 THAI 2206 Frankfort Ave., 996-7899. The elegantly redone interior is matched by some unusually elegant Thai dishes, such as the volcano Cornish hen, a whole bird, marinated with Thai herbs and spicy chili sauce, which is flambéed at the table. All dishes are cooked to order, so choose your spice level. $$ L D p
Á-CHÂU RESTAURANT 5103 S. Third St., 364-4262. This Beechmont arrival (pronounced “Ah Chow”), proclaims “Vietnamese Street Food” in a banner over the front door of what long was Thornberry’s Deli. The menu includes noodles and soups, Vietnamese egg rolls, bánh mi, curry dishes, fresh coconut or sugar cane juice, sweet Thai iced tea and hot or cold Vietnamese coffee. $$ L D ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D
CHIK'N & MI 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 890-5731. Fried chicken meets Asian noodles in the lower Brownsboro space that has seen lots of other ethnic choices. The menu starts with fried chicken tossed in sauces such as sweet soy, hot, extra hot, and peppercorn ranch. Starters include assorted pickles, salads, fried calamari, and pork belly steam buns. Also pho and ramen dishes and shareable sides: fries, bok choy and kimchi mac and cheese. $$ Br D p EATZ VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT 974 Barret Ave., 7854550. Another newcomer to the string of shotgun houses along Barret that provide a lead-in to the Paris Pointe development. Pho and Bahn mi sandwiches, of course, but also other noodle dishes, a bento box and crispy tofu in chili sauce. $$ L D pf LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS RESTAURANT 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110, 2956 Richland Ave., 614-7448. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PHO BA LUU 1019 E. Main St., 384-6822. This Butchertown restaurant focuses on Vietnamese street food such as pho, the classic noodle soup, and banh mi sandwiches. The very cool repurposed space was once a welding shop; its large open spaces and high ceilings make for an elegant place to sip sweet iced coffee or munch on an Imperial roll or tuck into a rice or noodle bowl. Fast casual service at lunch; after happy hour the full bar and large patio have full service. $$ L D pf PHO CAFÉ 1704 Barstown Rd., 916-2129. Local restaurant veteran Tuan Phan, who worked at Asiatique for 18 years along with a stint at Dish on Market, is serving Vietnamesestyle home cooking. There is pho, of course, the signature noodle soup, as well as other noodle and rice dishes, banh mi sandwiches and a small selection of stir-fries. $$ L D h PHO PHI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 290-3019. A Vietnamese restaurant joins the choices in Shelbyville Road Plaza, setting up shop in the former Home Run Burgers site. Phos, of course, and Bahn mis, and rich Vietnamese coffee. $$ L D VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $LDh
BOUDREAUX’S CAJUN COOKING 11816 Shelbyville Rd. Inside the tiny Boudreaux's New Orleans Style Sno-Balls shack in Middletown, you can now find take-out only New Orleans style spicy gumbo (lunch only). Eat on the patio, or take home to reheat for supper. $ L f COUVILLION 1318 McHenry St., 365-1813. The name of Chef Paul Skulas’s Germantown restaurant, refers to the rich Cajun-style tomato-based roux broth that is the basis of his signature catfish dish. The menu features traditional Southern flavors and cooking styles of Mississippi and Louisiana. $$$ L D pf FLAVOUR 1767 Bardstown Rd., 409-6968. This Highlands space that was Asiatique has been quickly appropriated for Flavour, which features Caribbean, Creole and Southern cuisine. The menu ranges from conch fritters and Caribbeanspiced chicken pattie to fried catfish and ribs to crawfish etouffée, jerk chicken and Trinidadian oxtail stew. J. GUMBO’S 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 1616 Grinstead Dr., 873-5006, 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046. Former
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 73
jockey Billy Fox has come full circle with his chain of popular quick-service Cajun restaurants — his most recent outlet is in the little house near Bardstown Rd., where it all began. Among the hearty, affordable dishes that have made J. Gumbo’s a go-to spot is the drunken chicken, still a favorite. $ B L D f SEAFOOD LADY 601 E. Jefferson St., 3207 Fern Valley Rd., 907-5251. It began as a food truck, but owner Nichelle Thurston has expanded into two stores. The lure here is fresh fish, shrimp and crab legs brought up from the Gulf Coast, prepared with Cajun spices, and served simply and relatively cheaply. $$ L D f SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf STORMING CRAB 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 5903773. Seafood boil combos are the draw here, served at market price and by the pound. Several flavors (crab house Cajun, garlic butter or plain) and spice levels to take home or dump on the paper-covered tables to eat as it should be eaten. Other seafood dishes available plus Cajun items, like gumbo and crawfish etoufée. $$$ L D TAYLOR'S CAJUN MEAT CO. 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 725-0039. A few blocks down Grant Line Rd. from I265, Taylor’s is a spic-and-span shop run by a family from Lafayette, LA. Daily plate lunches often sell out quickly. A great variety of fresh and frozen savory Cajun specialties (sausages, stuffed everything) are always available, as well as crawfish and shrimp pies, gumbo and étouffée, and special orders. This place is the real deal. $ L
CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 317 W. Woodlawn Ave., 434-7711. The diverse Woodlawn neighborhood welcomes the area’s first
Haitian restaurant. The boldly-painted exterior is decorated with cool Haitian folk art; the menu offers generous portions of jerk chicken, fried red snapper, goat, and hearty sides of rice, beans and plantains. $ L D h EL SABOR DE CUBA 7200 Preston Hwy., 618-2181. The flavors of Cuba can be found here on an ambitious menu of appetizers (tamales, croquetas and tostones), pizzas (including those topped with tuna or shrimp), Cubano (and other) sandwiches, and chicken, beef, pork and seafood entrees. $ L D hpe GALAN’S MEAT MARKET & GRILLE 2300 W. Market St., 618-3191. Carlos Galan, who has made a mark with his butcher shop in Portland, has opened another enterprise, in a former bank. His family-oriented restaurant, which has a Cuban/Puerto Rican/Caribbean menu focus, also has a meat market on site. Order breakfast, lunch or dinner inside, or from the drive-through. $ B L D f HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 320 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Owner Leo Lopez has rebooted his restaurant concept in a former bank (the safe is still there, behind the bar) and installed in the front of the restaurant is a recreation of the raft he built to emigrate from Castro’s Cuba when he was 18. Cuban-style tapas on the menu, also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. Live music most nights — tango, flamenco and salsa. $$ L D pfe HAVANA BAKERY CAFÉ 5510 Fern Valley Rd., 509-3410. This Cuban spot offers sweets and savories: tres leches cake, coquitos (coconut-caramel rolls) and flan; sandwiches or meat and fish combos (ropa vieja, albondigas, pechuga de pollo). $$ L D HAVANA RUMBA 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at this consistently busy Cuban restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 7494600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D hpfe LA BODEGUITA DE MIMA 725 E. Market St. Adjacent to the AC Hotel in NuLu, this Cuban restaurant is the latest restaurant concept from Fernando Martinez and his Olé Restaurant group. Cigar lounge, rum bar, 1950s Havana décor and a menu of classics from family recipes, like Cuban tamal con Puerco, pan con bistec and some delectable desserts. $$$ D pf MI SUEÑO 3425 Bardstown Rd., 709-4526, 4214 Bishop Ln., 458-1050. This honest little bodega and hot table restaurant serving Latin groceries and a variety of Cuban-centric Latin dishes was, as the name translates, the owner’s dream. It was a successful dream, in that there are now two locations, both offering solid ethnic fare at affordable big-city ethnic eatery prices. $ B L D MOJITO IN HAVANA 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1959. Longtime Louisville favorite Havana Rumba has resurfaced with a new identity in the location previously occupied by Waylon’s Food & Firewater. The roomier location of this Cuban favorite offers diners a two-tier menu that brings together the best selections from both Mojitos Tapas Restaurant and Havana Rumba. Look for some new offerings, as well, including shrimp croquettes and a selection of flatbreads. $$ B Br L D pfe NAILA’S CARIBBEAN 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN 725-0399. This little place, tucked behind Storming Crab, serves island fare like jerk wings with plantain chips, as well as Indian-inspired items like curries, and when available Trini fried whole fish. $$ L D OPEN CARIBBEAN KITCHEN 4735 Poplar Lever Rd., 6011332. Chef Space, the West End kitchen incubator, has fostered another interesting eatery. This one highlights the
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 73
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 74
cuisines of Haiti, the Dominican Republic, and Trinidad. Offerings include alluring options like sautéed conch ceviche, Rasta pasta, and island-style jerk chicken. $$ L D h ROOF TOP GRILL 708 Louis Coleman Jr. Dr., 785-4069, 414 W. Oak St., 618-2287. This West End Jamaican restaurant serves the native cuisine of owner Courtney Johnson. Look for jerk chicken, curry with chicken, turkey, goat and rib tips, along with Kentucky favorites like fried catfish, barbecue and beef patties. $ L D
BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 8833153. This Provençal-style brasserie serves classical and Southern French specialties, the comfort food enjoyed by owner Guy Genoud in his childhood home of Cannes, France. Dine like the French do on fish and seafood, a variety of meat and fowl, a daily "plat du jour", French cheese and charcuterie, specialty cocktails, draft beer and a large selection of French wine. $$$ L D pf
EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The popular Germantown restaurant has re-defined itself as a neighborhood meeting place with an imaginative menu of freshly-made German and American dishes. The menu includes a variety of house-made sausages, schnitzel, rouladen, spätzle and the most extensive German beer selection in town. $$ L D h GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North Rhine-Westphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D
SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 454-3919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe THE CELTIC PIG 217 E. Main St., 290-4846. Another food truck has found a home, this one in the Ice House downtown. Owners Sam Bracken and Melissa Ingram offer Celtic favorites with a barbecue and Southern comfort twist. Look for shepherd’s pie and fish and chips, two styles of haggis (traditional and hillbilly), as well as pulled pork and brisket and grilled cheese. $$ L D hp
ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D
MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 3949797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ Br L D hpf MERCATO ITALIANO 10640 Meeting St., 690-3200. This Italian market and upscale casual restaurant in Norton Commons is under new ownership. Chef/owner Peter Pagano prepares lunch, brunch and dinner. Customers can buy cheeses, bread, charcuterie, sauces, packaged pastas and prepared meals for take-out in the market section. $$ Br L Dp
ANGIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 451-5454. This small eatery moved from its Buechel location to the East End, still attracting a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D p
MILANTONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1600 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8210. This East End restaurant serves up all you would want in a casual Italian eatery: mozzarella sticks and calamari; subs and Philly cheesesteaks; pizzas and calzones; and a dozen or so different pastas. $$ L D p
BAR VETTI 727 E. Market St. (AC Hotel), 883-3331. Ryan Rogers (Feast BBQ, Royals Hot Chicken) and Executive Chef Andrew McCabe have made bar Vetti, in the renovated 800 Building, so popular they are moving into larger digs in NuLu's AC Hotel by the end of April. It remains a must-try spot for their classic Italian cooking using local seasonally available produce and simple preparations. $$ B L D hpf
OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 581-1070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp
BELLA ITALIA 130 W. Riverside Dr., 913-1252. You can find pan-Mediterranean cuisines here, with pastas, entrées, desserts and specialty drinks that reflect ingredients and flavors from the South of France, Italy, Spain, North Africa, and Greece. $$$ L D hpf BELLA ROMA AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. Bella Roma adds classic Italian-American choices in a pleasant environment in the midst of New Albany’s growing restaurant row. $$$ L D f
MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe
BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family Italian-American restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp
MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. $ L D hpfe
CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D hpf
O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 5897373. The O’Shea family has been operating an Irish pub since the early 1900s. Today they have one of the most popular pubs on the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Diners of all ages like its burgers, flat breads, sandwiches and fish and chips. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe
CIAO 1201 Payne St., 690-3532. A crisp modern dining space with a menu that is a blend of familiar Italian-American family cuisine and Northern Italian dishes. Creative takes on Italian regional cuisine include salmon saltimbocca, roast chicken with lemon risotto and eggplant rollini. Unusual pizzas are topped with mushroom and truffle, shrimp scampi and butternut squash. Flavors of monkey bread, a popular appetizer, vary daily. $$ L D hpf
PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D hpfe
COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777. Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike other neighborhood saloons, this houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p
74 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
GRASSA GRAMMA 2210 Holiday Manor Ctr., 333-9595. Kevin Grangier’s newest dining idea is his take on familiar Italian food, just like your robust Italian grandmother made, only better. There’s lasagne, of course, and spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli and gnocchi and several other pastas, but prime beef filet with Gorgonzola sauce, veal scallopini, whole roasted branzino, and pizza, too. $$$$ Br L D p
AMICI´ 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying, traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic (and pet-friendly) patio on a lovely summer evening. The joke and pun-filled menu, updated by new owner Don Reinhardt, is fun to read, and his dishes have been winning raves. $$ L D pf
IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloon is as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. Serving classic Irish fare. $ Br L D pf
O'CONNELL'S IRISH PUB 5520 Fern Valley Rd., 964-0040. If you are in the mood for an Irish Car Bomb, this is the place. Guinness, too, karaoke nights and a satisfying selection of bar food. $ L D hpe
DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. Reminiscent of a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f
THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 339-7190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 9682978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 5840567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D p PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Start with fried artichokes, a Roman specialty. Opt for the grilled Romaine salad, then the gnocchi with spicy sausage. The grilled veal chop is a fine choice, and finish with tiramisu. $$$ L D hpfe ROC RESTAURANT 1327 Bardstown Rd., 459-7878. New York City chef/restaurateur Rocco Cadolini has transformed a Highlands building into an elegant upscale restaurant, with a handsome pergola in the front garden. The first floor has a large bar and casual dining, and upstairs sees a more formal white tablecloth space with several private dining rooms. Here you will find authentic Italian food, served with flair. Now open for lunch and the “disco brunches” are becoming legendary. $$$ Br L D hpf ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SARINO 1030 Goss Ave., 822-3777. Owners and brothers, Carmelo and Michael Gabriele, the next generation of the noted Gabriele family (owners of the highly revered
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 75
Vincenzo’s), have taken over the short-lived Goss Ave. Pub space for their casual, authentic Italian restaurant that emphasizes fresh pasta and Neapolitan pizza, something Germantown had been lacking. The menu also features Sicilian street fare, Italian cheeses paired with charcuterie, and traditional entrees. $$ D hp SILVIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 104 Fairfax Ave., 8836369. Owned by one of the Melillo family, fondly remembered for their NuLu retaurant before NuLu became popular, this St. Matthews spot evokes the classic New Jersey style Italian restaurants of the “Big Night” era: baked pasta dishes, cheese-stuffed rice balls, pasta fagiole, and eggplant Parmesan. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D TOWN 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. The former Southern Indiana branch of the Come Back Inn has a new identity and a menu still focused on pasta dishes and pizzas with several new salads, sandwiches and a revamped appetizer selection. Other entrees include items like chicken piccata and Greek lamb pasta. $$ L D p TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 3630308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this goodsized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced Italian-American fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D p VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. Chef and co-owner Josh Moore has revised his menu after an inspirational tour of Italy, and brings in fantastic whole fish for seafood specials on Fridays. His pasta extruder allows him to do things like squid ink fettuccine. Volare continues to be a top spot for suave Italian dining. Moore supplies his kitchen with vegetables he raises himself on his Taylorsville farm. $$ B Br L D hpf
MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf
APNA CAFÉ 11322 Maple Brook Dr., 690-7555. This Indian café attached to the neighboring grocery offers a colorful and aromatic assortment of curries and more. $$ L D BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D CHAMLING KITCHEN & BAR 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2100. Another entrepreneurial immigrant family has opened Louisvillians’ taste buds to more ethnic possibilities. In the former Empress of China space, the Rai family serves standard Chinese hot table dishes, but also adds Nepalese and Indian fare. $ L D p CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also selections of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ L D DAKSHIN SOUTH INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. This Indian restaurant has won many fans with its aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 75
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 76
HONEST INDIAN 9008 Taylorsville Rd., 690-8355. From a street cart in Ahmedabad, in western India, this chain expanded to Thailand and now to the U.S. Its menu offers abundant offerings from a variety of regional Indian cuisines. Offerings include bhaji pav, rava dosa, uttapam, aloo mutter and various chaat. $$ L D KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf KATHMANDU KITCHEN AND BAR 3825 Bardstown Rd., 276-1527. Named for the capital city of Nepal, this crisp, modern place in Buechel serves Nepalese food (a sort-of fusion of Chinese and Indian cuisines). Expect dishes such as pakoras, biruanis and even chow mein, but also Nepali items such as pork sakuwo (spiced pork chunks cooked on skewers), fried mo-mo (a kind of dumpling with dipping sauce) and khasikomaasu ra bhata, an aromatic stew with curried accents. $$ L D hp LOUISVILLE CAFÉ INDIA 12412 Shelbyville Rd., 253-6777. Meat dishes are an afterthought at this mostly vegetarian restaurant serving dishes from both North and South India, which also has a substantial selection of vegan dishes. $ L D SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SHREEJI INDIAN VEGETARIAN STREET FOOD 1986 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-4000. The extensive, completely vegetarian menu of this East End restaurant looks to the street food of India for dishes not often seen here: a variety of chaats, masala pav, hakka, dosa and even an aloo mutter sandwich, filled with a blend of potato, peas and a balance of savory spices. $$ L D h TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f TANDOORI FUSION 4600 Chamberlain Ln., 255-2590. The former Zeggz's location has been quickly taken over by entrepreneur Purna Veer, who uses Indian vegetables grown on his Oldham County farm. Veer promises that his dishes will not be “watered down,” so be ready for uncommon spice levels. $$ B L D pf TIKKA HOUSE 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 749-4535. Tikka House has garnered positive notice for both its lunch buffet and a la carte dinner service. Diners have praised dishes such as lamb masala with roasted coconut, Tandoori wings, fish pakora, paneer chili, several daal preparations and saag paneer. $$ L D pf
4 SEASONS RESTAURANT 8402 Hudson Ln., 749-9969. Fern Creek boasts the first Bulgarian restaurant in town. The “Mediterranean” cuisine here ranges from the familiar (gyros and kebabs) to Bulgarian specialties kebapche (grilled meat), banitsa (stuffed bread) and shopska salad with tomatoes, cukes and salty cheese. $$ L D pf AL HAMRA HALAL BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 384-4801. The first (that we know of) halal buffet restaurant has taken over the Asian Buffet at Mid City Mall. Over 50 choices will be on the buffet line, half cold (salads and other mezze) and half hot items. Familiar Near-Eastern foods such as kebabs, kofta and gyros will be available, but also dishes from other Muslim lands: samosas, masalas and lamb shank stew. $$ L D ALWATAN RESTAURANT 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D 76 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
ALADDIN’S MEDITERRANEAN 37 Bank St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. After bringing a higher level of Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany, Aladdin’s has moved to the cool new Underground Station complex. You will still find well-crafted gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus in their sleek new environs. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ LDh CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 2716 Frankfort Ave., 290-6050. Middle Eastern food of an above-average quality. Kabobs and hummus, of course, but also shirazi salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemony dressing, and chicken stew with pomegranate and walnuts. $ L D CHARCOAL 2805 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-8888. Chicken cooked over charcoal and served with garlic sauce is just one of the draws at this new Mediterranean restaurant. The menu also lists classics like falafel, chicken shawarma, hummus, baba ganoush, tahini salad — and baklava cheesecake. $$ L Df EAT A PITA 2286 Bardstown Rd., 473-7482. Enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D FALAFEL OASIS 226 W. Broadway, 742-2030. The owner of Superior Market and Deli a few doors away has also opened this Middle Eastern restaurant, serving gyros, falafel, and other regional fare. $ L D THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf
quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SAM’S GYRO 3123 S. Second St., 709-4292. This hummus and kebab joint, with its tasty food and friendly service, has moved out to the South End. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D h SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232, 4614 Chamberlain Ln., 919-9014, 1565 Bardstown Rd., 749-0385. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavash. $ LDf SIMPLE GREEK 3029 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0041. This national chain offers traditional Greek and Mediterranean dishes “with an interactive concept” — patrons build their own bowls, salads, pitas and Greek yogurt with a variety of proteins, toppings and sides. $$ L D f TAZIKI’S MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6222, 106 Fairfax Ave., 212-5373. At these Alabamabased chain outlets the food is made fresh daily with vegan and gluten-free choices. The menu includes grilled chicken roll-ups, a grilled tilapia sandwich with dill-caper sauce, gyros, a grilled vegetable and rice plate, roasted potatoes and baklava, along with beer and wine. $$ L D pf
GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. For those in the know, the Grape Leaf has long been a destination spot, well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery nich in both ambiance and quality of food. Prices remain affordable; the food and mood justify a special trip. $$ L D f
YAFA CAFÉ 612 S. Fifth St., 561-0222. This well-respected Middle Eastern lunch spot had gained a fanbase for its hummus, among other dishes, before it succumbed to the expansion of the Kindred development. Now it has reopened in a prime downtown restaurant lunch space that has seen a number of prior occupants. $$ L D hf
JERUSALEM KITCHEN 4413 Saint Rita Dr., 614-6465. Little Jerusalem Café has moved from the Iroquois Manor area and moderately rebranded itself. You can still find a range of Mediterranean dishes here, shawarma and fattoush, gyros and hummus and so on. $ L D
ZOE’S KITCHEN 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has two Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D
LITTLE GREEK FRESH GRILL 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 6908348. This Arkansas-based chain is now serving dolmades and spanikopita, pita sandwiches and wraps, a variety of skewers and mousaka and pastitsio. $$ L D p MAIRA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 1907 S. Fourth St., 9635999. Owners of the popular Safier restaurant in Theater Square have opened this U of L location, serving Middle Eastern food such as shawarma, kebab, falafel, hummus, lentil soup and baklava. $ L D f MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the now-defunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PASHA'S MEDITERRANEAN 3904 Bardstown Rd., 4094532. You can find the usual Mediterranean fare here – falafel, baba ghanouj – but with influences of Jordanian recipes such as Kalaya, ground lamb cooked in tomatoes, and char-grilled lamb liver. Fans cite the value-sized portions. $$ L D hfe SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salmon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 5851125. You can get standard American fare at this downtown
ALCHEMY RESTAURANT 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 619-4778. Venezuelan cuisine and Latin fusion. Arepas, fajitas and tacos. But patacones (plantain sandwiches) too. $$ L D f CARALI'S ROTISSERIE CHICKEN 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 618-0699, 211 S. Fifth St., 654-7131, 642 Baxter Ave., 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 618-2725. You will find Peruvianstyle rotisserie chicken and other South American dishes here: lomo (grilled marinated steak), chaufa rice and various salads and side dishes (such as stuffed avocado). Sandwiches as well as full dinners, and take away half and full roasted chickens. $ L D p CUBA Y MAS 5700 Outer Loop, 290-1672. Folks living in Okolona and Highview now have a nearby source of authentic Cuban dishes, such as the pargo frito (whole fried snapper) and the appetizer tamal cubano (the Cuban version of tamales). There’s a great selection of Latin soft drinks and tropical juices; try one of the tropical fruit "milkshakes." $$ LDp EL RINCONCITO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 742-9537. This Peruvian restaurant adds to the ethnic choices in Buechel. The happy chicken logo touts the charcoal-grilled chicken, but the menu includes salchipapa (sausage and potatoes), lomo saltado (a beef stew), plantains and Peruvian green rice. $ L D EL SAZON DE ABUELA 8506 Preston Hwy., 290-0030. The ethnic food choices along Preston Highway continue to expand with this Puerto Rican restaurant. Mofongo, – smashed plantains infused with garlic and seasonings – is a
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 77
comfort food staple of PR cuisine made with shrimp, chicken, seafood, or veggies and broth. Breakfast dishes, burgers, and sandwiches are also on offer. $$ B L D I LOVE TACOS 9909 Taylorsvile Rd. Replacing the former Señor Iguanas in Jeffersontown is this new Mexican eatery. The menu’s focus expands beyond the name with traditional Puerto Rican, Cuban and Mexican dishes as well as awardwinning margaritas. $$ L D pfe LA GUANAQUITA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 822-1343. This South End spot serves the dishes of Guatemala and Honduras: pupusas and baleadas and pescado frito (fried fish), served whole, head and tail on, garnished with lime wedges and avocado slices. $$ L D h LA SUERTE 2116 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Owner Chris Seckman has transformed his Douglass Loop North End Café site into a Latin restaurant. Partner and Executive Chef Adrian Jimarez Neri offer dishes inspired by his mother and grandmother. The dinner menu includes pollo tostadas, shrimp a la parilla, pork posole and shrimp a la diabla. Brunch will offer molletes, migas, and jalapeño biscuits with chorizo gravy. $$$ Br D hpf SABOR LATINO 1273 S. Brook St., 276-4954. A welcome addition to Old Louisville is this tiny restaurant serving a “Latin Culinary Mix,” as a sign advertises. The menu offers Cuban sandwiches, patatas bravas, burritos, quesadillas, carne asada, ropa vieja and pollo de vacaciones – a chicken stew. $$ L D f SENORA AREPA 721 E. Market St. Behind La Bodeguita, in the building that last housed Ghyslain, Olé Restaurant Group’s fast-casual restaurant features Venezuelan cuisine, focusing on arepas, a gluten-free cornmeal pocket stuffed with savory fillings. Other Venezuelan dishes are reina pepiada, stuffed baked cornmeal patties and pabellón criollo, the national dish of Venezuela, with black beans, shredded beef and plantain chips. YUMMY POLLO 4222 Bishop Ln., 618-1400. You can get Peruvian-style charcoal roasted chicken here by the piece, half or whole bird. American-style side dishes include fried or mashed potatoes, rice, steamed vegetables, slaw and pasta salad. $ L
BANDIDO TAQUERIA MEXICANA 423 University Blvd., 996-7788, 905 E. Liberty St., 384-2527. These Mexican places, the first in a strip mall near U of L, the second next to Falls City Brewing in NuLu, serve California-style tacos, quesadillas, burritos, nachos and burrito bowls, with a choice of four salsas at the condiment bar. $$ L D CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. This little shop along the lower Brownsboro food corridor touts “a world of flavor with a Mexican flair.” It’s mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. $ L D CANCÚN 808 Lyndon Ln., 885-2318, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 742-3697. Now with two locations, Cancún offers familiar dishes, combination platters, and steak and seafood specialties like carne bandito and tostados de ceviche. $$ L D pf CHILAKILES OAXACAN BREAKFAST 5600 National Tpk., 632-2000. This family-run spot serves a variety of Mexican dishes from breakfast and brunch through dinner. Some of the Oaxacan specialities are not commonly seen locally, such as tortilla entomotadas, egg and black-bean enfrijoladas or pollo rostizado with a spicy guajillo pepper sauce. $$ B Br L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 584-8606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170, 1075 Bardstown Rd., 4528990, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7173, 420 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 425-3017. Now with five Louisville locations, this increasingly popular Tex-Mex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ L D f COCONUT BEACH TACOS & CERVEZA 2787 S. Floyd St., 634-2843. The menu here is anchored by bargain-priced
tacos created to lure in U of L students from nearby (the place is across from Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium), as well as burritos, empanadas and tortas. Come the weekend, the huge space is converted into a bar and dance club. $ L D hpf
(Colonial Gardens), 384-8457. With the opening of the Colonial Gardens site and a store in J’town, Olé Restaurant Group now has five taquerias that all have diners lined up out the door. Familiar taco names — carnitas, carne asada — get clever riffs in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food. And do try the fantastic tortas. $ L D h f
CON HUEVOS 2339 Frankfort Ave., 384-3027, 4938 US-42, 384-3744, 400 S. Second St. (Omni Hotel). This popular Mexican breakfast and lunch spot with locations in Clifton and the Eastern suburbs has added a downtown outlet. Expect huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, breakfast-style enchiladas (with eggs, of course), frijoladas, churros and molletes. Tortas and tacos at lunch as well. $ B Br L
EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. El Tarasco’s take on Mexican food appeals both to the area’s growing Latino population and Anglos who want to enjoy a South-of-theBorder culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p
DOS GRINGOS 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-1280. In the space that for many years was Ann’s by the River, the folks who operate the 812 Pizza Company in Georgetown and The Standard Plate & Pour in New Albany have opened a bright, colorful Mexican spot featuring traditional plates and a wide selection of margaritas and tequilas. $$ L D hp
EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A familyoriented Mexican restaurant offers the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durangostyle grilled steak. $$ L D pf
EL
CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 266-9605. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p
EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 4893839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf
EL FRIJOL 1999 Brownsboro Rd., 742-9456. The corner space of the Clifton strip mall has been fully renovated, and the new owners present a lively, authentic Mexican menu, verified by the bustling array of Latino customers enjoying their meals.$$ B L D p
ERNESTO'S AMERICAN BAR & GRILL 5501 Valley Station Rd., 890-3585. The far South End has taken to Ernesto’s, enjoying the marriage of sports bar and Mexican restaurant that serves freshly prepared, value-sized servings in a convivial atmosphere. $$ L D hpf
EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, find much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p
FIESTA MEXICANA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp
EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with freshsqueezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (22 Locations) These locally-owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf EL RIO GRANDE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 632-2403. A Mexican restaurant has taken over the expansive space that once was Limestone. Patrons report good experiences, with both the food and the service. $$ L D hp EL SINALOA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 111 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-6489. A small but sincere Mexican restaurant in downtown New Albany. Some usual dishes on the menu – burritos, quesadillas, tacos and tortas – but also things like mulitas (think quesadillas crossed with tostadas) and unusual taco fillings like the Mar y Tierra with shrimp and grilled steak. $ L D EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 285-0109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ B L D p EL TACO LOCO 5622 Preston Hwy., 225-7229. This unpretentious Mexican restaurant tries to be as authentic as it can, and has persuaded many fans with its efforts. Inexpensive, freshly made tacos, quesadillas and other familiar Mexican dishes, served in value sizes. $ L D h EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave., 583-0440, 112 Meridian Ave., 709-5154, 500 W. Jefferson St., 409-9254, 9204 Taylorsville Rd., 708-1675, 5205 New Cut Rd.
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444, 135 S. English Station Rd., 254-7755. These traditional Mexican restaurant’s locations serve the expected things, like fajitas and burritos. But there is also an extensive grill menu, with items such as steak tampiqueño (rib-eye steak with ranchero sauce), Chile Colorado and Los Amigos cheese steak. $ L D pf FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p FOKO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), (210) 792-5858. Chef Paco Garcia fuses his two favorite cuisines, Mexican and Southern. The result is chicken with jalapeno gravy or tortas with collard greens, among others. $$ L D f GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. When Fernando Martinez returned to Louisville, he started his remarkable new restaurant blitz with this East End “creative Mexican” restaurant. As the name emphasizes, the menu explores different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Fans quickly warmed to the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Christina. $$ Br L D pe GUSTAVO’S MEXICAN GRILL 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 4347266, 10715 Meeting St., 690-7070. Gustavo’s offers “bold Mexican flavors.” Everything you would expect — fajitas, burritos, tacos — but also vegetarian options, house specialties like enchiladas verdes, chimichangas, shrimp tacos and pollo feliz (grilled chicken with chorizo and pineapple). $$ L D pf ISRAEL’S DELICIAS DE MEXICO GOURMET 604 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 725-9139. Israel Landon introduced Kentuckiana to his Mexican home-style cooking at La Rosita a few years ago. Now he is moving into the former Destinatins Booksellers space by the end of March. Look for street tacos and Mayan quesadillas and weekly specials highlighting cuisine from various regions of Mexico, including seafood dishes and new desserts. $ L D f LA CATRINA MEXICAN KITCHEN 202 E. Elm St., New Albany IN, 725-8264. The owners of Señor Iguanas restaurants have opened this Mexican party food and street food restaurant in the building that Dragon King’s Daughter moved out of. Look for naked and dressed tacos, soups, salads and shareable dishes and seasonal menu updates. $$ L D hpf LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 77
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 78
food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 3846427. $$ B L D LA LUPITA 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-0083. Tucked away on the back side of a strip mall, this is a new spot for authentic Mexican food. The usual stuff but also panbazos, tlacoyos, tlayudas and aguachile, all explained and illustrated on the menu. $$ L D hpf LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LDp LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566. This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ L D p LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2883. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA TORTA LOCA 5213 Preston Hwy., 966-3254. This simple, strip mall eatery has been around long enough to gain dedicated fans of their well-seasoned and fairly spicy versions of familiar Mexican dishes. Some of those fans recommend the agua de Jamaica (hibiscus). LA TROPICANA 5215 Preston Hwy., 964-5957. This Latino grocery store has been selling a full range of fruits, vegetables, meats and grocery items for a while. Now there is a steam-table buffet with a wide range of lunch choices. It’s mostly take-away, but there’s also limited outdoor and indoor seating. $$ B L D f LAS AMERICAS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 3719 Klondike Ln., 365-2710. This Klondike-area ethnic place is a small
Mexican market as well as a restaurant. You will find familiar items like flautas and burritos but also a few specials like mojarra frita (a whole fried fish). $$ L D hp LAS CAZUELAS 4214 Bishop Ln., 614-8634. This unassuming strip mall eatery has amassed a dedicated local clientele with fast, friendly service, cold margaritas and wellprepared familiar Mexican fare. $$ L D pf LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small, thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz now also have a sit-down storefront just down the street. $ D hf LAS MARGARITAS MEXICAN CUISINE 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 963-5503. This Middletown Mexican restaurant aims a little higher than many of its peers. You will find the familiar (tacos, fajitas) and the slightly different – caldo de pollo (Mexican chicken soup), mole poblano and salmon al ajillo (garlic salmon). $$ L D pe LIMÓN Y SAL 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This authentic Mexican kitchen offers suburbanites many choices: taquitos, bocadillos and dips to start, soups such as pozole and caldo de camarón (shrimp soup), tacos, tortas and combination dinners. $$ L D hpf LOS AZTECAS 445 E. Market St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville thanks to a growing immigrant community. Los Aztecas, one of the best, has moved its W. Main St. anchor store to E. Market, taking over the larger, spiffy space left by Wild Rita’s closing. It’s satellite locations are still bustling too. $ L D pf LUCKY BURRITO 2118 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Christopher Seckman and partner Adrian Jimarez Neri morphed the Douglass Loop location of North End Café into the Modern Latin restaurant La Suerte. Now the team has
added a new offering next door: Lucky Burrito is a quickservice place with hefty burritos, nicely-priced tacos, and plenty of interesting ingredients and an assortment of deftlycrafted tacos. $$ L D hf LUNA'S MEXICAN ROTISSERIE 5213 Preston Hwy., 9628898. The owners came from Puebla, Mexico, but made a stop in Los Angeles before moving to Louisville and starting Luna’s Rotisserie. Their specialty is slow-cooked rotisserie chicken from the coast of Veracruz. There’s plenty more on the board, such as tamales, quesadillas and menudo. On Saturdays & Sundays, pozole and cabo de camaron are added. $$ L D h MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 Hendrik Dr., 671-5291, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 749-6651. The 3 local outlets of this chain of Mexican-American restaurants serve a Latin lunch buffet seven days a week as well as a full dinner menu. You will find burritos, tacos and tamales, but also several steak dishes and Mexican-style desserts. $$ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along East Market Street, in the area now known as NuLu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ L D MEXA TACOS 3701 Lexington Rd., 290-1334, 305 W. Market St., 822-3232. This fast-casual restaurant, now with a second location downtown, features a list of signature steak tacos customizable with house-made salsas, guacamole, peppers and other toppings, such as the special house queso made with poblano peppers. Owner Lorena Casas-Ostos is a steak taco purist, but she offers fish, shrimp and pork pastor too. $$ L D p MEXICO CITY TAQUERIA & RESTAURANT 3826 Hamburg Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 283-1072. This bright little Mexican place in a Jeffersonville strip mall offers the usual, and on weekends adds traditional Mexican soups like caldos de camarones, menudo and pozole. $ L D h MI CASITA PARRILLA MEXICANA 520 S. Fourth St., 3150666, 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-3315. Enthusiastic fans of the restaurant formerly known as Mi Cocina will find the same quick and efficient lunch service and dishes executed with skill at both locations, under the new name change. The margaritas at Happy Hour are notable, and the East End location has added Sunday hours. $$ L D hpf MI TIERRA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-9142, 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 384-3101. These two clean, well-lighted places in the East End serve up familiar Mexican food – fajitas, tacos, carne asada – in a friendly, efficient atmosphere that is drawing raves from its local fans. $ L D hpf MIGO 2222 Dundee Rd., 882-3279. Tacos, imaginatively conceived by Adam Burress and Chase Mucerino are the focus of this popular Highlands restaurant. The ambiance is laid-back casual, and the flavor influences come from Brazil, Argentina and even Korea. Co-owner and bar manager Gerald Dickerson has worked up a notable bar and cocktail program as well. $$ D hpfe NEW WAVE BURRITOS 3311 Preston Hwy., 963-2727. The late-night burrito delivery service that has been operating out of borrowed kitchen spaces since late 2014 has moved into its own space at the former Grind Burger location. In addition to their five signature burritos new items include tacos, tortas and chicharrones. $$ D h NOCHE MEXICAN BBQ 1838 Bardstown Rd., 467-8015. Inside a de-commissioned Lutheran Church, illuminated by the large stained glass windows in the sanctuary/dining room, you can find authentic Tex-Mex barbecue. Look for brisket and pulled pork smoked with Noche’s special spice blend, fajitas, flautas, green chili macaroni and cheese and grilled Mexican street corn. $$ D h pf OLE FRIJOLE 5612 Bardstown Rd., 822-3388. After a bit of a hike out Bardstown Rd., you will find oversized margaritas, well-priced, nicely made familiar Mexican food, and a welcoming atmosphere. The customize-your-guacamole bar is a popular feature. $$ L D p
78 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 79
PIÑA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 2882022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (17 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Ramiro Gandara’s Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, in control in the kitchen. Together they deliver some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf RAMIRO’S CANTINA EXPRESS 253 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7770. Long-time restaurateur Ramiro Gandara’s second restaurant, a quick-casual version of his Frankfort Ave. spot, is now serving in Jeffersonville. Order at the counter, grab and go, or sit down and enjoy. Ramiro features his favorites: burritos, chicken bowls, nachos, tortas and tacos. A full bar, too. $ L D pf SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S (4 locations) This local chain has gone upscale with re-designed crisp modern decor, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. $ L D hpfe
SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd., 459-7776. Founded by Saul Garcia down on Main St.’s museum row, his restaurant has an extensive menu that satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D hpf TACO CHOZA 3922 Westport Rd., 409-5080. In the heart of St. Matthews, this locally-owned taqueria also makes burritos and quesadillas, pours craft beers, and offers daily margarita specials. $ L D hpf TACO CITY LOUISVILLE 1283 Bardstown Rd., 409-9454. Tucked in between the Time & Space bar and the Joy Luck restaurant, this new Mexican place — run by three Mexico natives — serves tacos on homemade corn tortillas, tortas, salads and burritos, using recipes straight from Mexico like the mole sauce by the owner’s grandma. $ L D f TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D TAQUERIA DON JUAN 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 920-1238. This addition to Clarksville’s rich array of Mexican restaurants focuses on seafood: ceviche, oysters, seafood cocktails, and caldo de camarones. But it doesn’t neglect meats. Choose tacos filled with lengua or cabeza (tongue or meat pulled from the head) as well as more familiar fixings. $$ L D p TAQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D VICTORIA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 7095178. $ L D
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 9030313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp ZOMBIE TACO 100 W. Washington St. (Moxy Hotel), 7167377. This always-open walk-up taco window at the new Moxy Hotel features Taco Tuesdays specials on tacos and margaritas, a 3-taco survival box with a side of chips and salsa, and deep discounts for restaurant industry workers on Sundays and Mondays. $$ B L D hpf
CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Ct., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 6147722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 8975323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (8 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 79
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 80
chile con queso, mesquite-grilled steaks, fish and chicken. The Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. $ L D hp
410 BAKERY 140 E. Main St., New Albany, IN 946-9410. Owner and baker Emily Butts attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and at her artisan bakery in downtown New Albany, she creates breads (with special items on Saturdays), high-end pastries (which change daily), coffee and espresso drinks, sandwiches for lunch and macarons. $ B L ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665, 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 949-2334. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of one of these cozy Southern Indiana spots, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 3842667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ ART EATABLES 631 S. Fourth St., 589-0210, 819 W. Main St. This chocolatier focuses on bourbon-infused and bourbonthemed candies and chocolate sold by the order or in shops featuring other bourbon-centric gifts. The small-batch bourbon truffle takes the bourbon ball to a new level. $ BOUDREAUX’S NEW ORLEANS STYLE SNO-BALLS 11816 Shelbyville Rd., This little family run shop offers the garishly colored shaved ice treat with all sorts of syrup flavors and toppings. $ f BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY BAKERY 729 E. Main St., 7428315. With its move from a cramped upstairs space on Washington Street to more spacious digs on Main, Butchertown Grocery’s bakery maven Barbara Turner now offers a wide range of pastries, breads, chocolates, cookies, sandwiches, soups and take-home dinners. Good Folks coffee provides fresh-squeezed juices and local kombuchas, coffee and espresso. $$ B Br L D p CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940, 601 S. Fourth St., 294-3496. Erika Chavez-Graziano still makes her chocolate confections at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., but now has a large, elegant downtown space in the Hilton Garden Inn building. $ CLIFTON DONUTS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 749-6896. A family from Thailand produces very fresh donuts of all sorts daily to an appreciative crowd from the Clifton corridor. Fans favorably compare the offerings here to those at the chains, lauding freshness of product and friendliness of service. $ B COLD STONE CREAMERY 1013 Jefferson Commons Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0034, 2015 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-7750, 976 Breckenridge Ln, 894-6292. The angle that distinguishes this ice cream chain is the long list of add-ons that fans can choose to have worked into their favorite flavor: bananas, berries, candies, cookies and nuts, to name a few. Ice cream cakes, smoothies and shakes too. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 4095090, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 365-2853, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 883-4131, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Now fans of this “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor can find their favorite flavors popping up all over town. And, you can
80 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
now find Comfy Cow products in Krogers ice cream section. $ f
selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B
CREME DE LOU 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). House-made ice cream here, with all your favorite flavors plus - blackberry ricotta basil, Fat Elvis and Zanzibar chocolate. $ f
JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “Europeanstyle” bakery offers an eclectic menu of Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, as well as breads. $ B L D f
DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 3689280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $
JEFF'S BAKERY 5420 IN-62, Jeffersonville IN, 283-3636, 4430 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 725-7170. Donuts are the draw here at these two Southern Indiana bakeries. Jeff concocts 40 variations, some large enough to be shared with the whole office. The Jeffersonville location is open 24 hrs. $ B L D h
DAIRY KASTLE 575 Eastern Pkwy., 634-8990. A long-time seasonal favorite that has drawn celebrities (like Denny Crum and Rick Pitino) and is ever popular with Germantown folks craving cones, flurries, milkshakes, sundaes and chili dogs. Seasonal: March-November. $ f
KING DONUTS 608 Lyndon Ln., 890-5293. Donuts, yes, but you can also choose muffins, breakfast sandwiches and sandwiches for lunch. Healthy juices as well as coffee. $ B LD
DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B DIVINE TREATS 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN. 5901470. This Southern Indiana bakery and café provides cakes, cookies and other treats. $ B L EHRLER'S ICE CREAM 201 E. Main St., 749-2236. Louisville’s iconic ice cream shop returns after a long hiatus. Good, locally-made ice cream and nostalgia for the ice cream treats of childhood will be the main draws. $ f FLORA KITCHENETTE 1004 Barret Ave., 742-3843. This Germantown bakery offers vegan and non-allergenic pastries and baked goods. Selections include cake donuts, toaster tarts, cupcakes, cookies, brownies, granola and macarons. $ B Br L f GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 4237751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4998, 10538 Fischer Park Dr., 426-2113. This Tennessee-based chain now has two shops in Louisville, offering a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HI-FIVE DOUGHNUTS 1011 E. Main St., 409-5584. Owners Annie Harlow and Leslie Wilson started with a food truck, and now are among the pioneer businesses in the Butcher Block on E. Main St. Customers can create their own with a choice of glazes and toppings or choose house favorites like Kentucky Fried Buttermilk Chicken Doughnut, Bourbon Caramel with Bacon, or Sugah Doughnut. $ B L HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 3521 Springhurst Commons Dr., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 590-3580, 9561 Hwy. 42, 614-8202, 4810 Dixie Hwy., 409-6100. $ L D h f HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this downhomey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide
L'BADS ICE CREAM PARLOR 2606 W. Market St., 8027519. In addition to ice cream treats, this West End business serves breakfast items like fried egg and cheese sandwiches, French toast and waffles, and sandwiches and pizza for lunch. $ B L D hf LIÈGE & DAIRY ICE CREAM + WAFFLES 2212 Holiday Manor Ctr., 791-7991, 12003 Shelbyville Rd. The East End and Middletown enjoy this shop’s locally roasted coffee and in-house crafted ice cream. Made with local honey, sorghum molasses, fruits, and non-GMO cream, Liège uses a process that creates a denser ice cream. $ L D h LOUISVILLE CREAM 632 E. Market St., 882-1516. After three years as an off-the-radar caterer and pop-up seller of premium ice creams, Louisville Cream has settled down in NuLu. Co-founder Darryl Goodner offers eight standard flavors (including Camp Marshmallow, Brown Sugar Brie and Hot Fuzz, roasted peaches with charred jalapenos) and four flavors in rotation, as well as apple pies, bourbon chocolate pies and a third ever-changing pie. $ L D LUEBERRY ACAI & SUPERFOODS 808 E. Market St., 7420640. This café serves açai bowls topped with things like goji berries, banana, chia, strawberries and coconut. Smoothies and other healthful options also available. $$ B L D MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NO BAKED COOKIE DOUGH 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 708-2656. The eggless cookie dough is scooped into cones or cups, and toppings can be added. Like an ice cream shop — only….with cookie dough. $ L D h NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This oldschool, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true — bacon. $ B NORTH LIME DONUTS 1228 S. Seventh St., 398-5739. This Lexington-based bakery has renovated a 19th-century factory building into a warm and inviting space to eat their made-on-premises donuts on the western edge of Old Louisville. Some of their unusual flavors: blueberry cheesecake, French toast and pumpkin cream cheese. $ B Lf PANCHITOS ICE CREAM 8112 Preston Hwy, 890-3935, 2245 Bardstown Rd., 749-2375. Lexington-based Panchito’s now has two outlets in Louisville, offering Mexican ice cream, popsicles (paletas), tacos, quesadillas and other Mexican snacks. The new Highlands outpost is in the former Bánh Mi Hero building. $ L D PEARL STREET TREATS 301 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN. 2888850. An invigorating walk across the Big Four Bridge will bring you down very close to this family-run frozen yogurt shop that also serves soup, chili, cookies, popcorn, and frozen dog treats. Novelty soda flavors in the cooler, but they will refill your water bottle for free. $ L D
RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner
Guide_Spr20_Ed.qxp_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 3/2/20 2:45 AM Page 81
PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLLY FREEZE 5242 IN-62, Georgetown IN, 945-6911. The scenic drive out Highway 62 to this Southern Indiana institution on hot summer nights has been a tradition since 1952. Soft serve ice cream in any variation (cones, sundaes, shakes, floats), a wide range of burgers, dogs, sandwiches and sides. Worth the trip. $ L D f RAWNAISSANCE DESSERTS 1759 Bardstown Rd., 4243638. Owner Barbora Shneydman offers “guilt-free” dessert concoctions, a variety of chocolate and fruit truffles, and cakes made with raw vegan ingredients. Everything is free of sugar, grains, soy, dairy and eggs. $ L D SCARLET'S BAKERY 741 E. Oak St., 290-7112, 200 S. Fifth St., (First Trust Center) 290-7112, 106 Fairfax Ave., 2907112. This nonprofit employs exploited and trafficked women, giving them new skills and confidence in the future. Owner Rachelle Starr works with graduates of Sullivan U.’s pastry program to teach the skills to make macarons, cookies, cinnamon rolls and muffins, and to interact positively with the public. The menu also includes lunch items: Greek salad, soup of the day, grilled cheese, BLT and grilled chicken pesto sandwich. $ B L SNOWHAT 3801 Poplar Level Rd., 742-6080. After a hot day at the zoo, stop by this New Orleans-style snoball shop for a cooling cone. Blueberry and strawberry flavors, and for the more adventurous: lavender lemonade, watermelon basil and jalapeño margarita. $ L D STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ STEEL CITY POPS 1021 Bardstown Rd., 324-1008, 117 St. Matthews Ave., 473-5350. This Alabama-based chain bills itself as a “gourmet healthy popsicle business,” with its cooling treats made from certified organic ingredients with no artificial flavors or colors. $ L D h SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET FROG 1401 Veterans Parkway Ct., Clarksville IN, 725-7765. The hook here is a wall of live-culture self-serve yogurt dispensers. A toppings bar includes sprinkles, chocolate and butterscotch sauces, graham crackers — and on and on. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts. $$ h f SWEETS BY MORGAN 533 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 6444276. Owner Morgan Coomer is dedicated to scratch baking and using real butter in her icings. Expect the usual sweet bakery items like cookies and cupcakes, along with clever specialties. $ B L D
carves out its nook in the burgeoning Louisville coffee scene. Located next to Falls City Brewery. $ BEAN 1138 Goss Ave., 785-4079. $ B L BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ BLACKBEARD ESPRESSO 718 W. Main St., 618-0004. Former food truck Blackbeard Espresso now has a Main St. storefront, taking over for Mrs. Potters. Look for coffee, hot and cold teas, milkshakes and smoothies, which the truck’s limited generator couldn’t handle. Baked goods include muffins and scones for those who need a carb lift with their caffeine. $ B L COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f THE COFFEE ZONE 1301 Herr Ln. (Westport Village), 7854676. North Carolinian transplant Craig Bishop has established a beachhead in Louisville. In his Westport Village store he features bakery items, such as pastries, and assorted sandwiches along with good java. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a collegeneighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ hf ENDLESS SUMMER PADDLE & COFFEE COMPANY 1301 Frankfort Ave., 203-1041. Located in the Waterside Apartments, this stand-up paddleboard livery also offers a coffee shop. Fresh juice, smoothies and snacks are available for paddlers, paddleboard students, and landlubbers. $ B L FANTE'S COFFEE 2501 Grinstead Dr., 454-0543. Owner Leo Fante has been in the coffee business most of his life, and has finally opened his own shop across the road from Cherokee Park. Fante imports his beans from small suppliers around the world, and roasts on premise. There is also a limited menu of sandwiches, soups and salads, and breakfast pastries. $ B L D pf HEINE BROTHERS’ COFFEE (17 locations) Heine Bros. continues their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ hfe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 451-4545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f HIGHVIEW ICE CREAM & COFFEE 7525 Outer Loop, 6183809. This suburban oasis offers coffee and specialty coffee drinks made from Sunergos beans and serves locally-made Bernoulli Small Batch Ice Cream. $ B L D h KOLKIN COFFEE 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0593. This family run caffeine dispensary on the north side of New Albany serves coffee from Sunergos roastery in a cheerful, inviting environment. $ LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $BL
WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B
M+A+F GALLERY & CAFÉ 976 Barret Ave., 558-3031. Both an art gallery and coffee house, M+A+F has positioned itself as a quiet and esthetically pleasing spot for a vegetarian & vegan friendly lunch or a quick coffee and cinnamon roll, all made in-house. $
78 COFFEE SHOP 907 E Liberty St., 290-5046. This NuLu roastery and coffee shop, with connections to the SeattleSpokane coffee culture, takes its products seriously, as it
MCQUIXOTE BOOKS & COFFEE 1512 Portland Ave., 5309658. Located in the sprawling Tim Faulkner Gallery, itself a hipster arts hub, this bookstore also has a coffee shop-café that serves higher-end coffee and teas, a selection of sandwiches, pastries and house-made vegan ice cream. $ B L D
THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 4097484.$
h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music
NTABA COFFEE HAUS 2407 Brownsboro Rd., 871-5082. It is always fun to see former chain restaurant buildings repurposed. The one-time Pizza Hut in Clifton is now a purveyor of African-sourced coffees and teas. $ B L PEARL STREET GAME & COFFEE HOUSE 405 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 648-1663. The name says it all: you can play your favorite boards games from the extensive library of such while enjoying coffee drinks, fresh fruit smoothies, lavender lattes, and sandwiches. $ B L D f PLEASE & THANK YOU 800 E. Market St., 553-0113, 2341 Frankfort Ave., 432-8614, 252 E. Market St., 938-6423, 9561 U.S. Hwy 42, 544-9225. This small-batch bakery and coffeehouse offering quiches, panini, cookies, and a hip vibe now operates in NuLu, Crescent Hill, and a new location in Prospect. $ B L f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426, 802 E. Main St., 473-5379, 117 St. Matthews Ave., 242-8608. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the four locations. $ pf RED HOT ROASTERS 1399 Lexington Rd., 569-0000, 1007 E. Main St. The original drive-through joint moved across Lexington Rd. to larger quarters, and now an actual sit-and-sip coffeehouse has opened in the Butcher Block development on Main St. Owner Sondra Powell houses the business’s roasting operations there and has expanded food offerings along with indoor and outdoor café seating. $f SAFAI COFFEE 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555, 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). This casual spot boasts the ambiance of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, house-made crepes, and coffee roasted at the Logan Street Market, where there is a second shop. $ BLf SANAG COFFEE 5324 S. Third St., 882-2210. The spiced-up flavors of traditional Somali is the main attraction at this Somali coffee shop/community center. But you’ll also find a small selection of savory sambusas (meat pies) and sweet pastries. $ B L SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (40+ locations) $ f STARLIGHT COFFEE CO. 3131 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 542-1522. This sister outlet to Bean Street Coffee also produces high quality joe to those on the upper fringes of New Albany. In both you can find all the popular varieties of coffee and chai, as well as baked goods from Adrienne’s. $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ THE SWORD & THE SCONE TEA PARLOR & BOUTIQUE 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 907-0018. This tea room in J’town serves a wide variety of teas, tisanes and blooming teas, pastries, sandwiches and salads. Stop by for an afternoon tea, or go all the way with a high tea, just like the Dowager Lady Violet. Available for parties and showers too. $ L D VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060. Owned by Heine Bros., this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f WILD DOG ROSE TEA BOUTIQUE 1570 Bardstown Rd., 996-7440. You can find all things New Age at this tea and book shop. In addition to dozens of teas, Wild Dog Rose stocks crystals, essential oils, books and baked goods such as scones, tea-infused truffles and muffins. Tea sold by the cup, or in bulk, and can be custom-blended to suit a customer’s preferences. $ B
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020
81
MAP INDEX
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:01 AM Page 82
MAP # DIRECTION DOWNTOWN 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel
82 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
PAGE #
84 85 86 87
MAP # DIRECTION EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder
PAGE #
88 89 90 90
MAP # DIRECTION WEST 9 west louisville NORTH EAST 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge
PAGE #
91
91 91 92
MAP # DIRECTION SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 15 clarksville INDIANA 16 jeffersonville
MAP INDEX
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:01 AM Page 83
PAGE #
93 94 95 95
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 83
DOWNTOWN
MAP • 1
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:01 AM Page 84
84 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON
MAP • 2
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:01 AM Page 85
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 85
(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS
MAP • 3
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:01 AM Page 86
86 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL
MAP • 4
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:01 AM Page 87
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 87
(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN
MAP • 5
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:01 AM Page 88
88 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN
MAP • 6
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:02 AM Page 89
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 89
MAP • 8
(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER
(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT
MAP • 7
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:02 AM Page 90
90 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
MAP • 11
(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK
(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT
MAP • 10
(WEST) WEST LOUISVILLE
MAP • 9
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:02 AM Page 91
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 91
(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE
MAP • 12
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:02 AM Page 92
92 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT
MAP • 13
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:02 AM Page 93
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 93
(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS
MAP • 14
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:02 AM Page 94
94 Spring 2020 www.foodanddine.com
MAP • 16
(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE
(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE
MAP • 15
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:02 AM Page 95
www.foodanddine.com Spring 2020 95
Maps_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_p90-104_Maps_sp05.qxd 3/2/20 3:02 AM Page 96
Cover Pages_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 3/1/20 9:28 PM Page 3
Cover Pages_Spring20_Ed-final.qxp_Cover_JW03_Spring11 3/2/20 1:19 PM Page 4