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WINTER 2009 | NOV - DEC - JAN
900
restaurant listings with reviews & maps
holidays
liquids green wines|dumante
old world recipes coffee gift ideas
profiles churchill downs|jack’s lounge|tequila factory $ 4 . 9 9 U. S .
www.foodanddine.com
Cherry trifle with port wine and pastry cream génoise with a candied sugar garnish from Pastry Chef Liz Turee of Jack’s Lounge.
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WINTER 2009 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF SARAH FRITSCHNER VICE PRESIDENT PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN SCOTT HARPER DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS ESTHER ANG TOM DANYLUK BILL DOOLITTLE GREG GAPSIS DANA MCMAHAN CONTRIBUTING CHEFS AGOSTINO GABRIELE JIM QUINTER CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE GINA WOLFE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING PAUL M. SMITH IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE
Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.
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Annual Subscription rate $18. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at
www.foodanddine.com For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER: Cherry trifle with port wine and pastry cream génoise with a candied sugar garnish from Pastry Chef Liz Turee of Jack’s Lounge. (see story page 44) Photo by Dan Dry 4
Winter 2009
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WINTER 2009
RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 900 area restaurants complete with reviews. Now with more user-friendly features.
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MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR) Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.
PROFILES CHURCHILL DOWNS: Legendary track feeds the happy masses with a masterful touch.
JACK’S LOUNGE: A new look and flavor for a Louisville hallmark.
TEQUILA FACTORY: South of the border gem shines brightly.
TEA
52 82 34 44 48
COLUMNS
48
STARTERS
26
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COMINGS & GOINGS Tracking changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.
SIDE DISHES Who’s doing what in the local culinary landscape.
FROM THE EDITOR: Making perfect pasta Chef Agostino Gabriele — a 48-year veteran of Italian restaurant cooking — offers tips on how to make the best pasta.
HUMOR: Source this!
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One man’s mission to remove the ancestry of every ingredient from restaurant menus.
ROAD TRIP: Chicago — Bourbon country North A city’s love affair with Kentucky’s finest spirit.
LIQUIDS
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SPIRITS: Dumante Verdenoce Ultra-premium Italian pistachio liqueur born right here in Louisville.
CORK 101: Six great green wines Oenologist meets environment: Our expert checks out the organic, sustainable and biodynamic.
HIP HOPS: American hops rule Our resident expert examines why American hop beers are pleasingly different from the rest.
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COFFEE: Holiday gift ideas Unique suggestions for the java lover on your list.
RECIPES COOKING CLASS: Cupcakes Sullivan University Chef Jim Quinter offers simple and striking cupcake ideas for all occasions.
EASY ENTERTAINING: An old-world holiday dinner America’s melting pot appears on the holiday table.
12 14 24 40 18 30 32 42 20 26
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Legendary
entertainment
GUY FIERI SATURDAY, DECEMBER 5 The star of Food Network’s Diners, Drive-ins & Dives brings his Road Show to Horseshoe Casino Southern Indiana. See the bad boy of the kitchen on his first-ever Rock ‘n’ Roll Culinary Tour. FEATURING: The Bartender With Flair – Hayden “Woody” Wood Rolling 5-Foot-Tall Blender • Live DJs Cooking Demonstrations • And More!
THE SHOWROOM • 7:30 P.M. TICKETS AVAILABLE THROUGH TICKETMASTER OR CALL 1.800.745.3000.
Special hotel and dinner discount packages for select show nights available online at www.horseshoeindiana.com.
Just 20 minutes from Downtown Louisville off I-64. 1-866-676-SHOE.
Must be 21 or older to attend shows. Must be 21 years or older to gamble. Know When To Stop Before You Start.® Gambling Problem? Call 1-800-9-WITH-IT ©2009, Harrah’s License Company, LLC.
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starters comings & goings
comings
& goings
It may not yet be time to sing “Happy Days Are Here Again,” but Louisville restaurant owners are not letting the sour economic times rain on their parade.Yes, two big players on the Bardstown Road corridor closed (Café Metro and Club Grotto) and some dozen other smaller eateries closed up shop in the last few months. But more than two dozen new eating establishments have opened. One local entrepreneur, Saul Garcia, continues to expand his local empire, both downtown and on the Baxter-Bardstown Road nexus. Edward Lee, of 610 Magnolia, has adapted his vision of highend cuisine to the fast food realm, opening a noodle, dumpling and sandwich place on Baxter Avenue. And two of the most shocking events of last winter for local foodies, the fires that destroyed the buildings housing Café Mimosa and La Bodega tapas bar, have had happy outcomes. After a long summer and fall of rebuilding, La Bodega has reopened at the same address, 1604 Bardstown Rd., and expanded its space with a spacious back room. Meanwhile, Café Mimosa and Eggroll Machine owner Phat Le has reopened his restaurants a bit further out at 1543 Bardstown Rd., in the building that housed the old Lentini’s and most recently Jarfi’s Bistro.The “We Open” sign out front has been getting smiles and sighs of relief from long-time customers happy to see that even a fire in the dead of winter can’t keep an industrious Asian chef down for long.The indomitable spirit shown by Phat Le and Maggie and Miguel de la Torres is shared in some part by all those who continue to provide new eating experiences for Louisville diners. Garcia’s Los Aztecas/Sol Aztecas empire, which now includes a Sol Aztecas at 520 S. Fourth St. (in the space recently vacated by Raw Sushi Lounge), has also added a classier glow with Tequila Factory in the building that recently housed Nios at 917 Baxter Ave., offering tapas, lunch specials and reasonably-priced dinner entrées, as well as a large, welcoming bar with a long list of tequila choices (see story page 48). Working on the assumption that there will always be a demand for food that is healthy, quick and tastes good, Edward Lee, who concocts high-style prix fixe dinners at 610 Magnolia, has opened Potstickers, a fast casual eatery, at 938 Baxter Ave. He has designed the interior with salvaged wood, furnished it with fixtures from businesses that have closed, and is serving a limited menu of noodle bowls, sandwiches and cooked-to-order potstickers, the Asian dumpling.The condiment table includes wasabi mayo, Asian BBQ and peanut sauce and chili ketchup. The other openings run the gamut from soul food places to coffee shops to pizzerias to Mexican joints, from downtown to Butchertown to the suburbs and across the river in Indiana. Sweet-Tee’s (4900 Poplar Level Rd.) and Queenie’s Soul Cuisine (2956 Richland Ave.), both offer fried chicken, long-cooked 8
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beans and greens, and the soulful atmosphere you want when you order such down-home Southern cooking. Family atmosphere of a different sort is what you will find at Bistro 42, 6021 Timber Ridge Dr. in the Prospect Center, a familyowned Italian restaurant. At HawksView Gallery and Café, 170 Carter Ave., near the Bullitt County line, you can eat amid a display of art glass, and even watch glass being blown as you eat. At Miss C’s Kitchen and Pantry, 1319 Story Ave., you can get lunch and breakfasts made from locally sourced foods, and take away a variety of Kentucky Proud foodstuffs from the small gift store. Sergio’s World Beers moved from Shelbyville to a corner in Butchertown, 1605 Story Ave. Fans who tracked him down in the boonies will likely root him out in his new digs, which Sergio is keeping low-key. He draws his inventory from the entire global range of brews, and is willing to educate anyone serious about exploring the several hundred beers he stocks. Ethnic eateries continue to sprout around town. Cocos Locos Caribbean Cuisine, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., will offer Cuban, Puerto Rican and Dominican dishes for those who have come to love Cuban food and want to see what variations abound around the Caribbean. Shockingly pretty for a space in a strip mall, the jewel tones of the decor set an on-vacation-in-thetropics ambience. Acapulco Authentic Mexican Restaurant has set up shop in a somewhat unlikely locale — the Ramada Inn at 1041 Zorn Ave. Mexico Viejo has opened at 2319 Brownsboro Rd., and Zapata’s Corner is now serving in Middletown, in the building that Mazzoni’s had briefly relocated to, at 12003 Shelbyville Rd. And the taco truck that once operated out of Lyndon has set down roots as Tacos Toreados Mexican Taqueria at 9109 Galene Dr., just west of Jeffersontown. Only one new Asian restaurant has opened, True Thai, at 8125 Bardstown Rd. Two new pizzerias are serving up now, Kahn’s Pizzeria & Pub at 201 Spring St. in Jeffersonville, and Pizz-A-Roma at 1511 Bardstown Rd. Two new coffee houses have sprung up, Third Street Coffee House at 711 S. Third St. and Dueling Grounds
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Cafe in Destination Booksellers at 604 E. Spring St., New Albany, which is also a bakery that will make bread and pastries on site for eat-in or take away. Among the bars and grills that have opened or will shortly, perhaps the most anticipated is Patrick O’Shea’s, the newest incarnation of the O’Shea’s/Flanagan’s/ Brendan’s local empire, opening soon at 123 W. Main St., in anticipation of the new arena.The rooftop patio will be a big draw, maybe even in the cooler weather. Other new bar eateries include Sporting News Grill in the Holiday Inn South (6551 Paramont Park Dr.) a partnership between the motel chain and Sporting News magazine. Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grill (12205 Westport Rd.) offers the usual array of giant TVs subscribing to all the sporting channels, as well as wings, steaks, and salads. Christy’s Bar & Bistro is now serving at 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., Louisville Grille is smoking and grilling at the corner of 5th and Chestnut, 612 S. Fifth St., and Simply Splendid Salads is tossing at 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. Several established restaurants have opened new locations in the last few
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months. Bazo’s is serving fast fresh Mexican dishes at 1907-C S. Fourth St., Osaka Sushi Bar has opened a place downtown at 426 W. Market St., and Shiraz has opened yet another place for kebab and hummus at 3521 Poplar Level Rd. In New Albany, Hobknobb Roasting Co. has taken over the former Joy’s Coffee at 419 State St., Papa Murphy’s has opened a new pizza outlet at 2221 State St. and Sweet Stuff Bakery has also relocated to 323 E. Spring St. All three add yet more synergy to the downtown New Albany restaurant boom which will be explored in our spring issue of Food & Dining. And speaking of restaurant booms, the owners of Wathen’s Kentucky Bistro, 3930 Chenoweth Ln., in Chenoweth Square, have changed management and the name of their restaurant to Five Points St. Matthews, in recognition of the lively restaurant area at the confluence of Frankfort Ave., Lexington Rd., Breckenridge and Chenoweth Lanes and Shelbyville Rd. Rooster’s has also opened a new bar and grill at 420 Dixie Highway. And finally, Spinnelli’s Pizzeria has finally opened a second outlet at 2929 Goose Creek Rd.,
after almost two years of preparation, anticipation and excited signage.
CLOSINGS Although openings outnumber closings these last few months, the demise of Cafe Metro, after more than 20 years of serving sophisticated food and killer desserts, was seen in some quar ter s as a gloomy harbinger for other higher-end restaurants. But Nancy Shepherd maintains her stately presence on Bardstown Rd. in her more casual Uptown Cafe across Duker Avenue and intends to stay awhile. The other higher-end establishment to call it quits recently was Club Grotto, 2117 Bardstown Rd. The restaurant was started by Jim McKinney Jr., son of owners Jim and Juanita McKinney, who maintained the business when their son died several years ago but they felt it was now time for them to retire. In both cases, personal as well as business reasons contributed to the closings of these fixtures in the restaurant scene. Another notable closing is Raw Sushi Lounge, 520 S. Fourth St., a space that was quickly appropriated by Saul Garcia for a new Sol Azteca’s. Both J Train Pizza & Pub and Jerry’s on the River closed and very quickly their spaces were taken by other restaurants still eager to try to make a go of things. Also across the river, Islamorada Fish Co., 852 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, in the Bass Pro Shops closed up shop. So did Jewels House of Teas, 632 Eastern Blvd., Skipjacks, 1418 Blackiston Mill Rd., and Wishbone Grill, 408 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. Just Fresh Bakery & Cafe at 1255 Bardstown Rd., ran out of steam, as did Small Times Bakery, 2956 Richland Ave., and Xavier’s, 120 W. Broadway. Sage Indian Restaurant, 4123 Oechsli Ave., Savino’s Italian Food, 8534 Terry Rd., and Sportsville Grill & Bar, 4004 Gardiner Ln., all in Louisville, closed their doors.Two Mexican restaurants with multiple outlets closed one store each, El Nopalito at 2319 Brownsboro Rd., and Taco Bueno at 2909 Hwy. 62 in Jeffersonville. F&D We regret any omissions, but invite the restaurant community to keep us informed. Send information by Email to publisher@foodanddine.com or give us a call at (502) 493-5511, ext. 501.
10 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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starters side dishes
side Guy Fieri Road Show Rolls into Town Food Network’s bad boy Guy Fieri (Diner, Drive-ins and Dives, Guy’s Big Bite, Ultimate Recipe Showdown) is taking his show on the road, putting together a live show that “marries food and rock-n-roll with blow-your-mind entertainment.” Guy modeled this two-hour food-a-palooza after a high-energy rock concert, including traveling from city to city on tour buses with his culinary crew. The local stop in his 21-city tour will be Dec. 5 at Horseshoe Casino in Indiana (tickets available at Ticketmaster or call 800-745-3000). Whatever this turns out to be, we want to be there to see it. To give you a chance to witness this cultural phenomenon and hang out with the bad boy himself, Food & Dining will be giving away two pair of tickets to the show and to a meet-and-greet with Guy afterwards. You have two chances to win. Send an email with the words “Guy Fieri Giveaway” as the subject to info@foodanddine.com by midnight Dec. 1. Or watch the new 34 WBKI TV/The CW Louisville (channel 7 on Insight cable) between Nov. 23 and Nov. 29 for details on how to win. Other prizes such as restaurant gift certificates and Food & Dining subscriptions will be given away daily. So be sure to send an email and watch WBKI for your chance to win.
365 Days of Chocolate The little girl who ran her own bake sales while growing up in New Mexico is now the chocolatiere behind the 365 Days of Chocolate project at Cellar Door Chocolates (inside Quill’s Coffee, 930 Baxter Avenue). Erika Chavez-Graziano dreamed up an idea to develop a new chocolate flavor every day for a year. She wanted to “think outside the chocolate box” and concoct new combinations — and encourage chocolate-lovers to sample new, maybe startling, confections. Avocado chocolate anyone? (Really! Inspired when she spotted the humble fruit at ValuMarket, Erika found it lent a creamy goodness to her chocolate.) She’s learned to rein in her natural enthusiasm (read: inclination to go overboard with anything she loves) and refine her recipes to let the real star, a small-batch artisanal chocolate, really shine. Every new flavor, including the likes of beer, raspberry balsamic or cheese, is sold only on the day it’s created, and only at Quill’s Coffee. Erika announces the daily flavor on her Facebook page. The year is up at the end of August, but if you don’t get your fill by then you may be in luck. Erika is keeping a recipe blog 12 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
dishes (http://cellardoorchocolates.wordpress.com/2009/09/09/) and there might be one more sweet surprise in store for Louisville chocolate lovers.
21c Hotel Voted Best Hotel in the Country All the media, from the local TV and newspapers to the Today show, has been abuzz at the recent Conde Nast Traveler 2009 Readers’ Choice Award to Louisville’s own 21c Museum Hotel as the best hotel in the United States, and the number 6 hotel in the world. The often outrageous contemporary art in the rooms and in the public spaces of the hotel, the high-end amenities such as very high-count cotton sheets and personally programmed iPods, and the cutting-edge cuisine at Proof on Main, which shares the hotels refurbished building at 7th and Main Streets, were among the qualities that impressed the magazine’s voters. 21c’s co-founder Steve Wilson said, “We are delighted that travelers are responding so positively to our presentation of work by living artists and the experience of 21c Museum Hotel.” In appreciation, the hotel is offering a special room upgrade and complimentary Woodford Reserve Bourbon toast to returning guests who mention the code word “Cheers” when they book at (502) 217-6300.You’ll be sure to want a room the night of Proof ’s soon-to-be announced whole hog dinner, complete with culinary stars and local pork — coming in December.
Where’s the Beef at El Mundo? Bison is no longer just the special at El Mundo — it’s what’s for dinner. Popular with foodies like Anthony Bourdain (who enjoyed bison during his Louisville visit) buffalo meat is a leaner, more nutrient-dense alternative to beef. Owner Bea Chamberlain personally switched a year ago, later deciding to swap bison for beef at El Mundo and “see what happened.” And? Staff love it, cooking more bison than they ever did beef. And with only a couple turned-up nose exceptions, customers dig it too. At the same price, the meat is just as flavorful, with a fraction of the fat. And the many diners who want to eat locally can tuck into their Grande Burrito feeling good about consuming happy Oldham county bison.
Creation Gardens is on the Move When Creation Gardens recycled the old Grocers Ice building into the coolest place for chefs to shop, the building became a place of interest for cooks searching for the secret
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ingredient that could make their food taste like restaurant food. Now, squeezed out from their Main Street digs by bridge and interstate projects, owners Ron and Mollie Turnier have announced a move to the NuLu neighborhood of East Market. The Turniers plan to build a 27,000-square-foot retail and commercial distribution center that will hold a 17,000-square-foot fresh-food and produce distribution center for commercial customers and a 10,000-square-foot market open to the public. The property, which Ron Turnier hopes will be open next year, is two acres on the northwest corner of Market and Shelby streets.
Playful McCool puts a New Spin on The Patron In a time when restaurants struggle more than ever to keep their doors open, successful spots are thinking creatively. Chef/owner Amber McCool of The Patron has developed a formula that plays on diners’ keen interest in a destination experience versus just a meal out. With affordable themed events like “Wax on Wednesdays” (12" Wax 12" Pizza 12 dollars) and “Burgers Beers and Beats” added to the wildly popular brunch,The Patron pulls in diners by tempting their taste buds on Facebook and Twitter. McCool has more up her sleeve but is keeping cool on her plans for now. We’ll need to tune in online to be the first to know what’s next.
New Faces in the Kitchen Andrew Welenken has stepped up from sous-chef duties to take the helm as executive chef at Buck’s, 425 W. Ormsby. A Sullivan grad,Welenken has cooked under Joshua Moore at Volare and Jay Denham at the now-closed Park Place. Andrew Badon returns to Furlong’s, where he was the chef from 1998-2001 at the Cajun restaurant’s original location. A native of Flivell, Louisiana, Badon worked as executive chef at Mulate’s in New Orleans, and then at the now-closed Rockwall in Floyds Knobs. “I have a true love for Louisiana cooking,” Badon said, “and could not be happier getting back to my roots.” In the far eastern end of the county, Rafael Hernandez has taken over the kitchen at Westport General Store in Westport, Ky. Hernandez, a former sous chef under Fernando Martinez at the highly acclaimed Mojito Tapas Restaurant, is gradually infusing Latin flavors in menu specials such as guava-glazed chicken wings with sweet chile sauce, and fish tacos laced with fresh pico de gallo and guacamole, and is also considering adding occasional Cubanthemed nights to the rustic bistro’s core menu. F&D
At 32, Rocky’s is going Old School Rocky’s Italian Grill has changed its name and its attitude. Going back to its origins, Rocky’s is once again Rocky’s Sub Pub at their waterfront location, 715 Riverside Drive in Jeffersonville. And to make sure no pinkies are raised while imbibing, the restaurant now has 32 draft beers in their line-up, which General Manager Thomas Kapfhammer says is second only to beer-mecca New Albanian Brewing Co., in nearby Floyd County. Some of the micro-brewer ies represented include Bell’s, DogFish Head, Victory, and Rogue. Locally-made beers are also represented, including Bluegrass Brewing Company, New Albanian and Three Floyds Brewing Co. “We are ver y excited about our new, wide-variety of beers,” Kapfhammer said. “We have customers that have been with us for over 30 years and we really wanted to bring them something new, something different to enhance their dining experience!” Rocky’s Sub Pub, celebrating its 32year anniversary, has been a staple of the Jeffersonville community since its days near Jeff Boat on Utica Pike. Rocky’s moved to its current river front location on Riverside Drive in 2000. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 13
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starters from the editor
BY SARAH FRITSCHNER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
Great Pasta is more than just boiling water
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A
After 48 years in the restaurant business, Agostino Gabriele knows how to cook pasta. And it’s way different than most people cook it. Different than the way they tell you on the package. Different than slapping it on a lunch buffet where it sits for goodness knows how long. Cooking pasta requires nothing more than pasta, water and salt. “It’s the easiest thing to do,” says Gabriele, co-owner and chef of Vincenzo’s restaurant at Fifth and Market streets,“but at the same time it’s the hardest.” Follow his directions, however, and you can turn out great pasta.To prove it, I took a box of store-brand vermicelli into the kitchen at Vincenzo’s. I challenged Gabriele to cook with the product an average home cook usually buys. Though, at Vincenzo’s, Gabriele uses all Italian pastas, he was up to the challenge. “First, you do the sauce,” says Gabriele. The sauce must be finished, he insists, before the pasta touches the water. A wide skillet of vegetables and another of seafood sat to the side on the stove while he executed the pasta. He filled a pan with two quarts of water on high heat and covered it with a large skillet. You could use a lid. The lid keeps the water from evaporating while it comes to a boil and keeps the heat in so it boils more quickly.You want lots of water in the pot and “the temperature of the water is very, very important,” he says.You want a full, rolling boil. In home kitchens all across America, cooks are removing the lid from their boiling water, turning their salt shaker upside down
over the pot and shaking 4, 5, 6, maybe 10 times. When Agostino adds salt to pasta water, he pours it into his hand. When measured, it turns out to be a tablespoon of salt. It’s an amount of salt that most Americans would find unconscionable to use, but most of it is poured off with the water. And it makes for a completely different dish, turning your pasta from a bland backdrop into an integral partner. Gabriele’s pasta (about 5 ounces for 4 appetizer servings) goes into the water all at once and he stirs it to separate the strands. He adds no oil to the water. His directions for cooking? Do not follow the directions on the box.“It says too long,” he says. His spaghetti cooks for six minutes, not the nine suggested on the box. Vermicelli cooks in less than three, although Gabriele never times anything.
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The finished, drained pasta is definitely chewy, and Gabriele eschews pizza parlors and others who put pasta on a steam table, which turns the color white and the texture flaccid and where people tend to eat too much of it. “Even the best pasta is no good if you’re eating too much.” After living through the pastaphobic 90s, Gabriele has strong feelings about how to serve pasta. “In Italy they eat pasta every day,” he says. “They eat one ounce, or maybe two ounces.They cook it al dente so that it’s good for digestion.” It’s an old-world way of expressing new world understanding. The pasta scare of the mid-90s cited dangerous increases in blood glucose and insulin as a reason to avoid pasta. Cook the noodles al dente, however, and you don’t get the wide swings in blood-sugar. Cooking it with care is easy — though I can’t do it by instinct, so I set a timer. But I get my sauce ready, I add enough salt, and cook the noodles al dente. It’s not as good as Agostino’s cooking, but it is really, really good.
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Spaghetti with vegetable melange SERVES 2 TO 4
At Vincenzo’s restaurant, many of the vegetables are pre-cut and stored in little bins that a chef can reach into any time someone makes an order. If you don’t have that luxury at your house, cut down on the number of different vegetables in the following recipe (though it makes a beautiful dish), but keep the same total amount. 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 cup small cauliflower or broccoli florets, or a mixture 5 or 6 baby carrots (fairly small) 1 /2 cup sliced zucchini, cut in halfmoons about 1/2 -inch thick 1 /2 cup grape tomatoes 1 teaspoon minced garlic 2 to 3 tablespoons cut up Sicilian olives (or other imported) 1 teaspoon pesto, optional 4 to 5 ounces spaghetti 1 tablespoon salt Pinch red pepper flakes Freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Fresh chopped parsley Bring 2 quar ts water to boil in a covered, heavy pot on high heat. Heat olive oil in a wide, heavy skillet on high heat. Add cauliflower, broccoli and carrots and cook 4 minutes, stirring occasionally (turn heat down if they threaten to burn). Add zucchini and cook 2 minutes more. Add tomatoes and garlic and cook, stirring, until the garlic is aromatic (a minute or so). Reduce heat to low and stir in olives and pesto if using. When water comes to a boil, add 1 tablespoon salt, then the pasta. Stir the pasta several times to keep it from sticking. As the pasta cooks, add red pepper and black pepper to the vegetables. Cook pasta until it is cooked through but still firm, about 6 minutes. Drain well, saving a little of the water it cooked in. Add the drained pasta to the vegetables in the pan along with a few tablespoons of cooking water. Sprinkle with cheese, and stir. Serve on 2 to 4 plates (as appetizer or dinner), sprinkled with parsley. Pass extra cheese if desired.
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Spaghetti All’Aragosta SERVES 1
Lobster base (to make stock) can be purchased at specialty food stores and also at many big-box liquor stores. Or make your own stock with discarded lobster shell and shrimp shells. In this, as with all pasta, don’t start the noodles until the sauce is finished. 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 lobster tail 6 small shrimp 1 /4 cup asparagus tips 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 5 grape tomatoes, sliced lengthwise 1 tablespoon julienne of sundried tomato 3 /4 cup lobster stock 2 teaspoons fresh basil pesto
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1 1/2 ounces dry spaghetti 1 tablespoon Romano cheese 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons fresh parsley Add olive oil to a heavy skillet set over high heat. Pan sear lobster tail about 3 minutes. Turn over and add shrimp, asparagus, and chopped garlic. After about 2 minutes, add grape tomato and sundried tomato. Add lobster stock and half of the pesto, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer. Bring salted water to a boil and add spaghetti. Cook about 8 minutes, or until barely tender, still firm. Drain, shaking the strainer to remove all water. Increase heat under the lobster pan, add spaghetti and toss together. Sprinkle with cheese and parsley and serve. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 17
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BY JERRY SLATER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
WâÅtÇàxixÜwxÇÉvx Old World Character — New Age Spirit
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Have you tried Dumante, that ancient nutty liqueur sipped for ages in pistachio groves of Sicily? Don’t feel bad if you haven’t, because Dumante has only been out since Fall of 2007, although its rich, sophisticated taste and elegant packaging suggest a more established product. The brainchild of local attorney and entrepreneur, Howard Sturm, Dumante was conceived to replicate the hand-crafted liqueurs he had on his travels through Italy. Dumante Verdenoce is an ultra-premium Italian pistachio liqueur. I first heard of Dumante about three years ago, while the product was being developed. I was given samples and asked what I thought about the product. Although I prefer a product like Dumante unadulterated, I could see its mixing potential. One recipe I came up with was a whimsical version of spumoni ice cream, with Dumante pistachio liqueur, chocolate liqueur, and strawberry liqueur. The drink was dubbed Passionata and now hangs from the neck of each bottle sold. Although Dumante is produced in Italy, it is an idea hatched here in Louisville by Sturm and his partners.Through his travels in Sicily and other parts of Italy, Sturm had tasted similar products, but they were produced and consumed locally, usually by individual families. His idea was to bring a sophisticated product to the market to rival other world-class cordials, like Grand Marnier or Drambuie. The base for Dumante is molasses alcohol made by a small distillery off the Amalfi coast of Italy, that has been around since the 1800s. Infused with a distinctive nuttiness, Dumante is slow steeped with Sicilian pistachios and other natural flavors. Being a skeptical consumer, I had to ask about “other natural flavors.” Turns out, that refers mostly to the five different types of vanilla, including Madagascar vanilla, that rounds out the liqueur’s nuttiness. Good answer. And speaking of those Italian pistachios, Sturm told me that others had offered to replicate their flavor chemically and save him money on production. I think his refusal to cut corners adds a weightiness in the mouthfeel, and I even get a touch of salinity from the amber colored liqueur, which only adds to its warm pistachio flavor. Sturm’s ambition to create a world class product doesn’t stop with his commitment to 18 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
using quality products. Dumante is bottled at fifty-six proof, higher than most sticky sweet liqueurs, a fact that appeals to brandy and straight whiskey drinker s. And then there is the bottle itself: a heavy vessel of thick cut glass with a distinctive, almost ar t-deco, appeal. A bottle of Dumante will sit nicely next to any decanter of cognac or scotch. Local bartenders are taking Dumante and inventing new cocktails with it, or re-inventing classic cocktails, like The OldFashioned. The Dumante website, www.dumante.com, is full of recipes like The Artisan, a combination of Dumante and vanilla vodka, or the Sicilian Manhattan, that replaces the sweet vermouth with Dumante and adds blood orange bitters. Of course, neat in a snifter, or just a few cubes of ice, works as well. Sturm also has a strong commitment to the arts and sees Dumante as part of a cultured lifestyle. It seems like almost any night of the week, Sturm and Dumante will be featured at an event involving good food, like Sullivan University’s “Savory Culinary and Cocktails Challenge,” charity, like Dare to Care’s “Taste of Derby,” or music, featuring several events with local favorites Carly and Craig. Sturm’s ambition for Dumante’s placement in the world of arts and culture even has Dumante as the sponsor for a performance of jazz legend Bela Fleck this fall in Louisville. And as for the future of Dumante, Sturm says he is still steadily building the product, even in these recessionary times. Dumante is currently in four major mar kets, including Louisville and Connecticut, and has plans to expand to four or five more in the near future.
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Here are a few cocktail recipes using Dumante Verdenoce, including one of our favorites, the Sicilian Manhattan. Visit their website, dumante.com, for more drink ideas.
Pistachio Eggnog 1 ounce spice-infused Bourbon 1 /2 ounce Dumante Verdenoce 3 ounces eggnog 2-3 drops green food coloring
Combine ingredients and shake (no ice); poor into a white wine glass. Top with whipped cream, grated nutmeg, and a miniature candy cane.
Dumante Pistachio Ginger Sour 2 tablespoons brown sugar syrup (divided) Ground pistachios 2 ounces ( 1/4 cup) Dumante Verdenoce 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) Kentucky Bourbon 1 tablespoon Kilimanjaro Sunrise ginger syrup 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Cocktails styled by Joy Perrine of Jack’s Lounge.
The Sicilian Manhattan
Coat the rim of a brandy snifter with half of the brown sugar syrup and the ground pistachios. Shake remaining ingredients with ice and strain into Brandy snifter. Garnish with lemon wedge and fresh mint.
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) Dumante Verdenoce 2 ounces ( 1/4 cup) Kentucky Bourbon 1 1/2 teaspoons Blood Orange Bitters
Brown Sugar Syrup: Stir 2 cups light brown sugar (do not use dark brown sugar, the flavor overwhelms the drink) into 1 cup boiling water until completely dissolved. Cool, bottle, label and refrigerate.
Cut an orange garnish and lightly coat chilled Martini glass on rim and interior with orange skin and zest. Shake all ingredients with ice, strain and serve. Add orange garnish. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 19
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recipes cooking class
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
Cupcakes Take the Cake Recipes with minimum effort — maximum results
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Jim Quinter didn’t start out a baker. He started out working for a collections agency in New Jersey. But after 10 years, his passion for cooking led him to culinary school in Philadelphia where he specialized in baking and pastry arts. A move to Louisville where his wife found a job at the university left him seeking employment. “Not a lot of restaurants employed their own pastry chef,” he says. So he started his cooking career in Louisville on the other side of the kitchen, as a “line chef ” cooking food, as opposed to baking desserts, a definite line of distinction in the culinary world where a cook is considered flexible, creative and artistic, while the baker is considered the scientist who uses precision at every turn or risk disaster. “I like both sides (of the kitchen),” says Quinter, “but my passion is baking and pastry.” That passion led him to his job as a baking and pastry arts instructor at Sullivan University, after five years of helping open restaurants from Anchorage to LaGrange, working the line in nursing homes and other institutions. On weekdays, he teaches young adults earning their degrees; on weekends, he teaches older students “who are retooling their careers,” he says. He loves the work because “things are always changing.”
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Cupcakes are new. Since Quinter joined Sullivan five years ago, the world of baking has become cupcake-obsessed. Cupcakes with trains on top, cupcakes shaped into spiders, mini cupcakes, regular cakes made to look like cupcakes, even wedding cakes made of cupcakes, have all come of age since Quinter received his culinary training. There are scores of cupcake books. And cupcake blogs. “They’ve really come out in the last couple of years,” says Quinter, who received a copy of “Hello Cupcake” (Houghton Mifflin Co., $15) for Christmas and he, too, became a cupcake fan. “I think it’s neat that people are taking cupcakes and making alligators out of them,” he says. His last creative cupcake venture was a twist on that alligator, made with cupcakes assembled so that it looks like the alligator is coming up out of the water. Any cake recipe will work for cupcakes, says Quinter. He prefers a pound cake recipe that he uses for wedding cakes. It’s a naturally moist cake that’s easy to modify, with chocolate chips, or any one of several extracts, even cocoa.
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Cream Cheese Pound Cake Cupcakes (MAKES 24 CUPCAKES)
2 8-ounce packages cream cheese, softened 1 cup butter, softened 2 3/4 cups sugar 8 large eggs 6 large egg yolks 2 tablespoons vanilla extract 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon double acting baking powder Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Prepare cupcake pan with paper linings. Make sure that the cheese and butter are at the same consistency to avoid lumps of either in the mix. In a stand mixer with a paddle cream or with a portable mixer, beat cream cheese and butter until fluffy and thoroughly blended. Add the sugar, beating well until the mixture becomes light and fluffy; scrape the bowl several times as you’re adding the sugar. Slowly add in the eggs and egg yolks, scraping the sides often to avoid the mixture becoming lumpy. Add in the vanilla extract. Sift flour and baking powder together, then fold the dry ingredients into the batter. Scoop batter into the prepared cups 2 /3 of the way from the top. Bake cupcakes about 30 minutes until a toothpick comes out clean. Variation on the cake: Lemon flavor — use lemon extract in place of vanilla and add 2 tablespoons of juice from a lemon. Chocolate flavor — replace 1/2 cup of flour with 1/2 cup of dutched cocoa powder. Chocolate chip — add in 11/2 cups of chocolate chips. Strawberry flavor — add in 2 cups of strawberry preserves.
Lemon Butter Cake (MAKES 12 CUPCAKES) 1
2 /2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda
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1 teaspoon salt /2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature 2 cups sugar 3 eggs 1 /4 cup lemon juice 1
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift the dry ingredients 3 times. Cream butter and sugar together with stand mixer or electric mixer until it has the appearance of wet sand and almost a light and fluffy look. Slightly beat the 3 eggs and mix them into the butter mixture. Blend in the lemon juice. Fold dry ingredients into the wet mixture. Portion your mix into paper lined cupcake pan.You may want to lightly spray the paper cups for easier removal of the cupcakes. Fill the cup 1/2 of the way full. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cupcake comes out clean.
Spice Cake Mix (MAKES 18 TO 24 CUPCAKES) 1
2 /2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon allspice 1 /2 teaspoon nutmeg 1 /2 teaspoon clove 1 /2 teaspoon ginger 1 cup oil 2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 /4 cup apple juice or water 3 eggs Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Sift flour, salt, soda and spices together twice. In a mixing bowl, mix the oil and sugar with a large spoon. When they are mixed completely, add the apple juice and vanilla. Slightly whisk the 3 eggs and stir into the mixture. Fold the dry ingredients into the wet mixture. Portion your mix into paper lined cupcake pan. You may want to lightly spray the paper cups for easier removal of the cupcakes. Fill the cup 1/2 of the way full. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean from the center of the cupcake. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 21
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Cupcakes have become popular as a creative and dramatic stand-in for a wedding cake, at less-formal weddings with emphasis on fun rather than formality. Cupcakes are easier to handle for home bakers (bake them ahead and freeze them), and can be less expensive if you’re having a friend bake them rather than hiring a professional. Cupcake liners can be color-coordinated with wedding colors and a variety of flavors can make up the whole.
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Buttercream Icing 8 cups powdered sugar (about 2 pounds) 1 cup vegetable shortening 1 cup butter, softened 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 3 tablespoons milk or water, if needed Sift powdered sugar 3 times. In a stand mixer beat together the shortening and butter to a light pale yellow color. Add in the vanilla. Gradually add in the sifted sugar about 2 cups at a time scraping down the bowl in between additions. Once all the sugar is added, slowly add in milk or water, if needed to thin out buttercream.To keep buttercream when not using, store it in an airtight container. Note: For the icing, you can use all shortening or all butter as desired.
Helpful Tips ▲
Afraid your cupcake will stick to the lining paper? Give the papers a brief spray with non-stick baking spray, and they should peel off easily without ripping the cake.
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If your layer cake turns out drier than you like, next time turn the cake onto the plate and keep the pan on the cake as it cools.
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Cupcakes take every shape imaginable these days. Buy intense hues of food coloring and edible decoration supplies such as fondant at any cake decorating store or candy store.
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Use a plastic food storage bag to fill with batter and squeeze into cupcake liners, or to decorate your cupcakes. Put the bag, one corner first, into a tall glass. Spread the open part of the bag over the sides of the glass. Fill the bag with frosting or batter, draw up the sides and give a gentle squeeze. Cut the tip off the plastic bag to allow batter or icing to come through.
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You don’t need a special batter to make cupcakes. Quinter uses his wedding cake batter — a pound cake — to bake cupcakes. Be sure to fill cupcake liners 1/2 to 2/3 full.
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Making a wedding cake with layers? Use McDonald’s straws instead of dowel rods. If it’s just a few layers, the straws will hold the cake in place. F&D
W I LTS H I R E PA N T RY C AT E R I N G Wiltshire Pantry offers custom catering for individual and corporate clients. From intimate to elaborate, from box lunch to elegant buffet.
inspired catering Wiltshire Pantry is at your service, as always, for inspired catered events - 581.8560 Visit our new restaurant Thurs - Sat evenings Wiltshire On Market at 636 East Market Street Reservations encouraged - 589.5224 wiltshirepantry.com www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 23
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BY JAY FOREMAN
Source This! One man’s mission to remove the ancestry of every ingredient from restaurant menus
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If you are growing weary of hyper-descriptive menus making implausible claims about the ancestry of their radishes, you are not alone. I too have noticed this escalating trend, which results in turgid descriptions like the following: Cruelty-free adolescent Kookaburra Prawns chaperoned by Free-Range Incan Corn Fritters laved in Virgin Chiapas Avocado Must upon a Matrix of Hickory Smoked Ice. (Québécois Paddlefish Caviar $100 supplement). $87
I can be silent no longer. Clearly, this sort of thing is a threat, if not to diners then to the English language, and it must be stopped.
It started innocently enough, I believe, with the “locally sourced” movement. Chefs highlighted locally-grown produce that could be sourced dependably enough to put on their menus. Then, as the trend gathered steam and demand increased, it merged with easily exploited environmental claims regarding “carbon footprint” this and that. More and more “locally sourced” ingredients began to appear, some of which set off my own personal alarm bells, as they could not actually grow in locally offered conditions. Finally, in its most advanced stages, we as diners are asked to essentially believe that the tricounty area is a magical Eden tended by Keebler elves who herd miniature Kobe cows and Alaskan salmon beneath forests of spring pears and year-round, singing, perennially fructifying strawberry trees. Now, couple this locally-sourced stuff with ultra-specific claims regarding which remote Irish cove this cockle was collected from by Fenian nationalists, and you have a recipe for balderdash. I might have cared about this for, like, a minute, five years ago, but I do so no longer. I do not care if a beet’s forefathers came over on the Mayflower, or that this particular oat was worshipped by the Mighty and Terrible God-Priests of the Toltec Empire. What I care about is how it tastes. Trends are a part of the ever-shifting seascape of cuisine of course; there is a constant ebb and flow. What is fashionable 24 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
one year is passé the next. This turnover serves to refresh and reinvigorate and is an indispensible part of dining. However, fashions in dining can also be reactionar y instead of inspired, and this can do a disser vice to cuisine. Shouldn’t the desire to plate up great tasting food be front and center instead of in what neighborhood the lettuce grew up? Besides, some things just grow better in one part of the country than in the other, and to choose something just because it came from closer by can hamstring the primary point of dining out in the first place: the taste. As a chef
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friend in New York put it, “I’d rather eat a good tomato from 300 miles away than a crappy tomato from 3 miles away.” Which brings me to another sad point: I believe that in jumping on the “locally sourced” bandwagon, lots of chefs, frankly, lie. There is, to the best of my knowledge, no regulatory oversight about this kind of thing. Because carrots don’t carry passports, chefs can say pretty much whatever they want. Who’s going to stop them? Mike Wallace doesn’t work for the Food Network, and even if he did, it’s likely that GE’s thugs would threaten to roast him alive in a Monogram 30-inch dual-fuel double wall oven if he got too close to the truth. Also, we want to believe chefs. We are part of the problem. I get PR announcements all the time which cheerfully burble that “Chef Soand-So uses only the freshest and locally sourced produce to … ” I’m sick of seeing that. Not only do I generally not believe it but I question that, even if it is true, does it really offer a diner a special experience? What is the point of spending a lot of money on a meal if there is no adventure to it? Source what you can locally and don’t feel bad about the other stuff. Personally, if I spend $76 on a Kobe steak, I want to believe that the steak flew business-class from Kyoto to Chicago. I want to picture that steak in an Airbus A380 with a seat belt across its little steak lap and a martini in a top-deck seat with 180degree recline. I want to see that steak’s boarding pass. And if I must, Godforbid, eat a brand-name steak that doesn’t come from overseas, say, Niemen Ranch, I’d like to believe it flew to the restaurant in a chartered Gulfstream V. Alone. But don’t tell me all this; let the food do the talking, not the menu, and my imagination can take care of the rest. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 25
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easy entertaining holiday party
BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
Old World Holiday Dinner These days holiday dinners aren’t the Rockwellian feasts of nuclear family that they were in the past, or at least in our collective memory. All of our backgrounds are different. It’s not just Southern cornbread dressing on the table with Northern pumpkin pie, but different ethnic backgrounds that collide. And at our house, “family” is likely to be a group of miscellaneous friends whose extended families aren’t around. Tim’s family is pioneer stock, who moved to Iowa when it was the wild west. My family is Bulgarian. So the two traditions come together on our holiday table.The zelnik recipe is Bulgaria’s spinach pie. This version is my Bulgarian cousin’s, and the hardest part about it was translating it from her measurements (one espresso cup) to something cooked in an American kitchen. Thank goodness for Facebook, where instr uctions can be clarified. The filling may seem a little goopy as you load it into the filo dough. Don’t be alarmed; it bakes up nicely. The tarator sauce, a mix of cucumber and Greek-style yogurt, is also Bulgarian.The Greek yogurt, along with olives and feta cheese that show up at many Bulgarian meals, comes from International Star grocer y in Jeffersontown, though you can find it at other places these days, including Whole Foods and Fresh Market. Lamb is also a traditional Bulgarian centerpiece. But Iowa gets its place at the table with traditional turkey roasted on a bed of vegetables and served with thick gravy. Nothing is more American than oyster stew, which Tim’s family always serves on New Years Eve but some version of which was no doubt served at the first Thanksgiving. For all its richness, it’s a cinch to make. Corn pudding and cranberry salad come from the Iowa side of the family. At Thanksgiving, both our moms come and we serve as the core for a larger gathering of miscellaneous friends whose families live out of town, or whose children have left. A little Woodford Reserve, steeped with wintery flavors of cinnamon and dried apple, helps get the party started. 26 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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Corn Pudding
3 1 1 1 /3 4 1
tablespoons butter, melted tablespoon flour 15-ounce can creamed corn cup sugar eggs, lightly beaten cup milk Salt Pepper
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pour the melted butter into a medium size bowl. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Add the creamed corn, sugar, eggs, milk and a pinch of salt and pepper. Stir until combined. Pour into a pie plate and carefully place the pie plate in a pan of water. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour or until set.
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Tarator (yogurt sauce)
4 cups Greek-style yogurt 1 medium English cucumber, coarsely grated 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 teaspoon dried dill Salt Pepper Place a piece of cheesecloth in a strainer or colander and pour in the yogurt. In a separate strainer or colander place a piece of cheesecloth and the grated cucumber. Let both drain for 2 hours. In a medium bowl mix the yogurt, cucumber, garlic and dill. Taste and add salt and pepper as desired. See recipe, page 29.
Note: We serve this as an accompaniment to lamb but it is also a delicious dip for vegetables, pita chips or bread.
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Grilled Lamb Chops
25 French cut lamb chops 1 /2 cup olive oil 1 /2 cup Greek seasoning (such as Cavender’s all-purpose Greek seasoning) Black pepper 1 lemon
Preheat grill to high heat. Trim any excess fat from the lamb chops. Brush one side of the lamb chops with olive oil and sprinkle with Greek seasoning and black pepper. Turn over the lamb chops and repeat the olive oil, Greek seasoning and pepper. Place on a very hot grill for about 2 minutes per side for medium rare. After cooked to desired temperature squeeze lemon juice on top and serve with tarator (yogurt sauce). www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 27
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â–˛
Zelnik (spinach and cheese pie)
12 sheets of filo dough (extra is included in case it tears and you have to use more) 4 eggs 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 cup plain yogurt (we prefer Greek style) 1 teaspoon baking soda 3 /4 cup flour 11 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (we prefer Bulgarian feta), about 3 cups 8 ounces frozen spinach, thawed and drained of all water 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper 1 /2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
â–˛
Thaw the filo dough according to the directions on the package. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 10-inch pie plate. In a medium size bowl mix the eggs with the vegetable oil. Add the yogurt, baking soda and flour. Mix in the feta cheese, spinach, salt and pepper. On a dry surface carefully spread out one sheet of filo dough. Using a pastry brush paint it with the melted butter. Add a second sheet of filo on top then 1 heaping cup of the cheese mixture, spreading it the length of the dough. Roll this into a long tube and carefully place it into the pie plate around the edge of the pan. Repeat until all the cheese mixture is used and the pie plate is full. This should be 4 rolls, using 8 sheets of filo dough. Brush the top of the zelnik with the remaining melted butter. Bake for 1 hour until golden. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Laird Cranberry Salad
1 12-ounce bag cranberries, frozen 1 /2 cup sugar 2 cups (1 pint) heavy whipping cream 1 10.5-ounce bag mini marshmallows 8 ounces (1 small can) crushed pineapple, drained 1 cup slivered almonds, toasted 28 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
In a food processor grind the frozen cranberries to a fine consistency. In a medium size bowl combine the sugar and cranberries. Cover and refrigerator for a minimum of 4 hours, overnight is best. Whip cream until stiff peaks form. In a large bowl combine the whipped cream with the marshmallows. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours, overnight is best. Two hours before serving, fold the cranberries into the marshmallow mixture, add the pineapple and half of the almonds. Sprinkle the rest of the almonds on top of the salad just before serving.
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Herb-rubbed roast turkey Start this turkey a day before you want to cook it. 1
/3 cup kosher salt 2 teaspoons each of dried rosemary, dried rubbed sage, dried thyme, dried parsley, black pepper 4 small bay leaves, torn 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel (yellow part only) 1 14-16 pound turkey 1 oven roasting bag 6 large carrots, peeled and chopped into 1-inch pieces 6 celery ribs, roughly chopped into 1-inch pieces 3 onions, roughly chopped into 1-inch sections 2 Granny Smith apples, seeded and chopped into eighths 2 oranges, roughly chopped into eighths 1 /2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature Paprika Salt and Pepper
In a small bowl combine the salt, rosemary, sage, thyme, parsley, black pepper, bay leaves and grated lemon peel. Rinse the turkey inside and out. Place the turkey inside the roasting bag and rub it liberally with the herb mixture, being sure to get it inside both cavities. Seal the bag and refrigerate for 16 to 24 hours. Remove the turkey from the bag and rinse off all of the herbs, inside and out. Pat dry. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees and put the rack on the lowest position in the oven. Place the carrots, celery and onions in the bottom of the roasting pan to create a bed for the turkey to rest. Fill both cavities of the turkey with the apples and oranges. Rub the outside of the turkey with the butter and sprinkle with paprika, salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for approximately 20 minutes per pound or until the temperature reaches 165 degrees in the thickest part of the thigh. Remove from the oven, tent with foil and let rest for 20 minutes while you make the gravy.
For the gravy: 3 tablespoons pan drippings (or butter) 3 1/2 cups turkey or chicken stock or broth 5 tablespoons flour Salt and Pepper In a small saucepan over medium heat mix the drippings or butter with the flour, whisking them together to form a roux. Slowly add the stock or broth, whisking continually to avoid lumps until incorporated. Continue to cook for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally. Season with salt and pepper.
Mom’s Oyster Stew ▲ 8 cups ( 1/2 gallon) whole milk, room temperature 4 cups (1 quart) half & half, room temperature 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter 1 teaspoon celery seed 1 /4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 2 quarts + 1 pint raw oysters, undrained 1 teaspoon salt 1 /2 teaspoon paprika Dash of hot sauce Oyster crackers After the milk and half & half have come to room temperature, melt the butter in the bottom of a large saucepan. Add the celery seed. Add the Worcestershire sauce. Add the oysters and oyster liquor. Cook over medium heat until the oysters begin to curl. Lower the heat and slowly add the milk and half & half to avoid curdling. Add the salt, paprika and hot sauce. Raise the heat slowly to medium and cooked until heated through. Be sure to never let it boil. Serve in warm bowls with warm oyster crackers. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 29
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liquids cork 101
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BY SCOTT HARPER
6
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I remember tasting an organic wine more than 20 years ago. I said to myself, “Does that mean that a wine not listed as organic is inorganic?” How can the earth’s most natural alcoholic beverage not be organic? After all, grapes crushed with the natural yeast on its skin makes wine. In truth, grapes are an agricultural product and there are scores of pesticides available to farmers who grow them. Organic wine back then was not great. Now, more than 20 years later, organic wine is a totally different experience in quality and in protecting the environment. There are several types of “green wine,” that is, wine made by eco-friendly agriculture: sustainable, organic and biodynamic.These three methods of farming grapes are different, but share two things in common: taking care of the environment and making quality wine. Here is a brief explanation of the three different types. Sustainable At one time, vineyards followed a system of spraying on a set schedule, whether or not a problem had been identified. Sustainable farming is about using what works best, and assessing what a vineyard really needs. Farming sustainably, then, might mean spraying only when tests show that risk from insects or fungus is high, or conserving water and energy, or maintaining habitat.
Organic Organic farming prohibits the use of synthetic pesticides, herbicides and fungicides, as well as chemical-based fertilizers, on or around vineyards. The vineyard owners use natural methods to take care of their vineyards, such as cover crops and compost for fertilizer. They use approved substances to fight vine problems, and beneficial insects and birds to control pests. Genetically engineered crops are forbidden. Some wines may be labeled with terms such as “made with organic grapes” or “made with organically grown grapes.” Wines labeled with these terms allow low levels of sulfites to be added, less than 100 par ts per million, in the completed wine. Wines labeled “organic” may not add sulfites. (All wines contain sulfites, as it is a naturally occurring by product of fermentation, and harmless unless you are hyper allergic to them.)
Biodynamics Biodynamic farming is a little bit harder to understand, but it is essentially organic with value added. It follows the philosophy of 1920s Austrian scientist-philosopher Rudolf Steiner. Biodynamics involves the use of a wide range of techniques including the 30 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
specifically-designed soil amendments that are attributed with increased soil microbial activity, root growth, humus formation and light metabolism. Other techniques include composting, certain cultivation methods, and the use of moon and zodiac planting charts to enhance production. Planting animal horns filled with herbs and other compost in the vineyard and planning vineyard work by phases of the moon have left some thinking biodynamic practices are over the top, but these practices have been proven to help improve the vineyard. Without a doubt, “green wine” is better for the environment, but do these growing methods make better wine? When you talk to most winemakers they will say that wine is made in the vineyard, which speaks to the importance of the quality and purity of the grapes used to make wine.That is, you can make great wine from great grapes but you can’t make great wine from mediocre grapes. It is generally considered when “green” methods are used, the vines are more balanced and are able to withstand stress because they are healthy, and that they produce a more consistent harvest. The long-term cost of farming in an environmentally-friendly way is similar to conventional farming, although converting to organic methods can be expensive. Some wineries may use these methods to make better wine, take care of the environment and/or increase the marketing value of their wines, although some wineries practice the methods without labeling their wines. Whatever the reason that wineries choose to use environmentally-friendly methods, many of them are producing wines that are far better than the ones I remember from 20 years ago.
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Côtes du Rhône Chapoutier “Belleruche” 2007 (Rhone Valley, France)
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The color is yellow gold with the flavors of fresh marmalade, white peach, pear and white flowers. It is dry, rich yet snaps back with good crisp acidity and flavorful minerality. Though this wine is produced by biodynamic methods, you don’t find that information on the label.
Carmenere is a grape originally from Bordeaux, France, but now it is often associated with Chile. This wine offers flavors of concentrated black and red fruits in a dry, medium body with soft tannin and toasted wood. This wine is made with organically grown grapes as stated on the label.
This dark red wine is dry, full bodied and rich with raspberry, black cherry, vanilla, oak, coffee, soft tannins and low acidity. Though you wouldn’t know by the label, the grapes are farmed sustainably.
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Dry, medium-bodied with pear, yellow apple, honey dew melon, allspice, light oak and a lovely yellow gold color. This wine is made with organically grown grapes as stated on the label.
Zinfandel Cline “Ancient Vine” 2007 (California)
Riesling Schloss Gobelsberg “Urgestein” ’06 (Kamptal, Austria) Right now Austria is making some of the best dry white wines in the world. The wines are great values as well. Don’t be afraid of this wine because it is Riesling. The wine is rich but dry with the flavors of lemon, peach and delicious minerality. This wine is made by sustainably farmed grapes.
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Roussane Bonterra 2006 (Mendocino County, California)
Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere Blend Cono Sur 2008 (Colchagua Valley, Chile)
Cabernet Sauvignon Honig 2006 (Napa Valley, California) Dark purple with the flavors of black berry, cherry, plum, allspice, vanilla and oak, all in a full-bodied frame with well integrated tannins. Sustainably farmed, which is listed on the label.
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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR
American Hops Rule Seafaring 17th-century British colonists were the first to bring landlubber hops to North America. Longstanding hop varieties from the Old World came across the Atlantic as mere rhizomes, tucked into the creaking holds of wooden sailing ships and destined for nascent hop fields in places like New England and upstate New York. Later, these flowering vines that had been lovingly documented by the ancient Roman scholar Pliny the Elder took their places among the crates and cases stacked in Conestoga wagons, following footloose settlers on their arduous paths westward. Both the pioneers and their hops were looking for the Promised Land.The latter found it. The Pacific Northwest proved to be the ideal terroir for hop growth and cultivation, especially after America’s original easterly hop growing areas were devastated by mold. Old World hop varieties were joined by New World hybrids, useful in their traditional way during the brewing process, but also carefully engineered to resist blights and fungi. Hops intended to add bitterness, aroma and flavor to beer prospered on 20-foot high trellises within a short distance of the Pacific coastline, and were shipped by iron horse to America’s ever bigger industrial breweries, where regrettably, over time, the finished and fermented product barely hinted at their presence. Beginning in the late 1970s, this hoppy westward American migration pattern abruptly reversed itself, though in a slightly modified fashion.While the hops continued to grow in Washington, Oregon and Idaho, and America’s industrial brewers produced regressively lighter and less flavorful beers, a new generation of small West Coast breweries leaped back to the future, adapting the old colonial portfolio of English brewing styles, exuberantly infusing them with American-grown hops, and spreading the gospel (and the hoppy taste sensation) eastward, igniting a craft beer revolution that continues to expand and evolve three decades later. Verily, since the early 1990s I’ve considered myself a card-carrying “hophead,” or a connoisseur of craft beers that emphasize “the magic cone,” as the late beer writer Michael Jackson put it. When American-made craft brews like Sierra Nevada’s pioneering pale ale from California first began filtering into Kentuckiana, about the same time that the now-defunct Silo and Bluegrass Brewing Company brewpubs opened in Louisville, the world quite 32 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
suddenly was turned upside down, and for budding beer aficionados like me, much of the cause for refreshing happiness lay in the newfound presence of hoppiness. And yet, it wasn’t that I had no previous experience of hops. I certainly had.They were an indispensable ingredient in every can of mass-market American lager I’d ever consumed, as well as every stein of German Helles tipped back at the Hofbrauhaus, every draft Guinness drained during marathon gab sessions in Ireland, and every one of those exceedingly strange bottle-conditioned Belgian ales that I was just coming to appreciate. While hops were nothing new in 1992, hop characteristics like those experienced in Sierra Nevada Pale Ale were very different. It was like listening to the English language spoken by an Australian rather than a British Broadcasting Company announcer, and comprehending the intended meaning in spite of accents, lingo and nuances that came unexpectedly, but grew increasingly familiar with repetition. What was changing? First, and perhaps foremost, it was the beer drinker’s own expectations. When Sierra Nevada first came to town, everything I knew about beers that existed beyond the flavorless norms of my upbringing in the American mass-market lager beer desert had come from drinking European imports and studying the European stylistic language. To be sure, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and its many subsequent top-fermented, microbrewed imitators justly claimed a piece of the British stylistic lineage through the “pale ale” descriptor, which
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long ago was referred to as “pale” because it had a lighter color than the darker brown and black beers that were the norm. England’s most famous example was Bass pale ale, brewed using the mineralladen waters of Burton-on-Trent. Then as now, a palate trained on Bass is capable of discerning immediately that Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and Bass pale ale are fundamentally different, and although the barley malts and yeast used to brew each also differ, it is the American-bred Cascade hop that provides the final key to the puzzle. The American-grown finishing hop known as Cascade first appeared in 1972 as the result of a Department of Agriculture breeding program. Fuggles, a 19thcentur y immigrant from England’s hop fields, was crossed with Serebrianker, a little-known variety from Russia, of all places. From these humble origins emerged American microbrewing’s signature hop, with distinctively floral, piney and citrusy characteristics. The Cascade hop came to define Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and the microbrews that followed in its footsteps. It’s the “American” flavor that a new generation of microbrewers around the world often emulate. A few years back, the German-born head brewer at Schneider in Kelheim, Bavaria, a maker of traditional wheat ales, was asked to revive an old company recipe with a twist. He dusted off an “Oktoberfest Wheat” and added Cascade hops as homage to the American-style India pale ales that had been such a tasty part of his trips to America. The result, Schneider WiesenEdel Weisse, is a German wheat ale first, but with a little bit of left coast citrus just for kicks. Brewers seldom agree on the parameters of balance, but even the most conservative microbrewer offers styles of hopaccented beer that have evolved during the course of the craft beer revolution, including pale ale, India pale ale and American brown, as well as “imperial” or “double” higher octane versions of these and others. By the global standards of brewing history, these styles tend to be aggressively hopped with American-grown hops. This is not to suggest that every style of beer brewed by a craft brewer tastes like a glass of raw hops. English Mild, German Helles, Belgian Wheat and American Amber are examples of styles
that do not require much in the way of hop character. American hops offer a wonderfully brave New World for hopheads like me to inhabit. I asked two Louisville brewers for their response to this question: Is it something unique about American-grown hops, or is it the way that American brewers use hops, that make American microbrews distinctive? Joel Halbleib, Bluegrass Brewing Company (Main and Clay; Louisville) To me, American hops are unique when compared ounce to ounce to almost any others on the planet.This is partly due to the hand of the breeder, but mostly to the climate and soil. In much the same way that grapes grown in Bordeaux are very chalky and acidic when compared to their American counterparts, which are fruit forward and robust, the Old World hops seem subtle, easy going, more akin to their herbal roots when compared to their citrusy, grassy, explosive American counterparts. Lots of flashy floral notes accent many American hop strains. My real problem is there is no method or scale to measure the aromatic contributions that late-addition hops bring to the table. In this “bigger-is-better” contest, balanced beer is often left far behind. Many a fine balanced beer can be made with American hops; it’s just easier to go over the top. I am a huge fan of dry hopping which contributes zero IBUs (international bitterness units). But if you have ever tasted a dry-hopped beer you know there has been a huge contribution to the beer. Brian Reymiller, Browning Brewery (Louisville Slugger Field; Louisville) It could be both. As for the hops, some are not very complex and are just bitter. Others are more complex and offer a wider range of flavors. Some American varieties offer an orange/grapefruit and citrusy flavor and aroma, while the German noble and Czech Saaz feature an earthy spiciness similar to cumin or even curr y. As for the brewer, one might produce wort with not much complexity and add a lot of the variety of hops that are just bitter, and you wind up with a very unbalanced beer. Also you might have a brewer that uses a lot of hops in the beginning of the boil and not much in the middle or end and again end up with a beer that is unbalanced. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 33
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people and places profiles
BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
Dining Under the Spires Legendary Churchill Downs feeds the happy masses with a masterful touch
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Jo-Jo Doyle had a pretty good idea what to expect when he arrived at Churchill Downs in the summer of 2006. As Levy Restaurants’ new executive chef-to-be at horse racing’s most famous track, he knew there would be 150,000 hungry people to feed on Derby Day. He knew the menu choices would range from hot dogs in the Infield to fine dining on Millionaire’s Row. He knew there were nooks and crannies and private suites and skye terraces, all crammed with fans. He knew about mint juleps. He was ready for all that. What he wasn’t expecting was … “The turkeys!” And not just a few birds. How about popping 400 turkeys into the oven early one morning to feed 7,000 Thanksgiving Day dinner guests? Doyle laughs and shakes his head in amazement. “I don’t think anybody cooks more turkeys than I do,” he says. “Maybe for some kind of a giant food drive, but I doubt it. I mean our Thanksgiving menu begins with 4,000 pounds of turkey. That’s a whole lot of turkeys.” Plus 110 hams, 272 gallons of turkey gravy, and a zillion sweet potatoes and baked potatoes — all mashed by a kitchen staff of 60 on Thanksgiving morning. Plus a raft of side dishes and desserts and, oh, something like 420,000 strawberries to brighten up the chef ’s special ambrosia salad.You get the picture: Kind of like feeding an army. “Hey, we are feeding an army!” Doyle says. And, the chef says, that’s just the way he likes it. “I live for the big events.” Thirty-five-year old Joseph Doyle, Jr., named for his dad Joe, and called Jo-Jo all his life, is one of about 90 executive chefs for Levy Restaurants, a Chicago-based concessionaire with catered venues peppered across the country at such sports and entertainment meccas as Churchill Downs, Wrigley Field, Dodger Stadium, the STAPLES Center, Hollywood Park, Ravinia Music Festival, golf ’s U.S. Open and PGA championships, and so on. Prior to his arrival in Louisville, Doyle was a Levy’s chef at American Airlines Arena, in Miami, home of basketball’s Miami Heat.
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(above) Salmon Napoleon: smoked salmon with black sesame crêpes and cream cheese. (far right) Alaskan King crab claw and filet mignon with roasted chanterelles, Brussels sprouts, purple and yellow cauliflower and potatoes. (below) Churchill Downs Executive Chef Jo-Jo Doyle.
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“Thanksgiving in Miami, we had the two restaurants and it was just a matter of whether we would serve turkey, or not — that’s if we had a game.” says Doyle. “But here we were coming to the end of the fall meet (in November) at Churchill Downs and I thought we’d be winding down. Then I started noticing all these reservations coming in for Thanksgiving. I asked, ‘What’s all this?’ And they said, ‘It’s a tradition.’ “I look at the previous year’s Thanksgiving menu, and it was like 4,200 pounds of stuffing! They said, ‘Oh, everybody comes to the track for Thanksgiving.’ ” Well, not everybody. Seating is limited to 7,000-plus sitdown diners in the track’s many restaurants and suites. And there’s a waiting list for the future, just like for Derby boxes. The total crowd comes to better than 20,000 racing fans on Thanksgiving Day, and 20,000 more on both Friday and Saturday, as the track winds up its fall meet in a big way. No matter if the weather is late-November cold and rainy or bright blue skies, Louisville racing fans pack the ancient Downs. The tradition dates back decades. And Churchill even moves up first-race post time from 1 p.m. to 11 a.m. to give the holiday dinner more of a traditional noontime feel. “It’s not as electric as Derby Week, but it has such a homey, family atmosphere,” says Doyle.“And it keeps growing. People who have four seats, want to increase to six the next year, and if they have six, they want eight. Once they come, they want to include more and more family for Thanksgiving. “But,” he adds, “that’s the way it is in Louisville. Any place else people might say they are going to Churchill Downs, but this place is so much a part of life here they just call it ‘the track,’ and everybody knows what you’re talking about. I think it’s neat there’s so much tradition around this place.” “The whole thing blew me away,” says Doyle. But not off stride. After serving two seasons as executive sous chef, Doyle succeeded Gil Logan as executive chef at Churchill, and has added a few personal touches to the Thanksgiving menu. He pored over the family recipe book (more about that later) and came up with his Grandmother Peg’s recipe for succotash. That meant adapting to the seasons. Doyle says he’s a stickler for using fresh ingredients, and that the Levy’s kitchen cooks everything from scratch on the day of the event. But the chef faced the same problem in late November in Kentucky that the Pilgrims faced that first winter in Massachusetts.There simply aren’t any lima beans on vines to be fresh picked. (Which is why the new Americans were so pleased when the Native Americans showed up with preserved food.) “It’s like being at home for me, with Southern home cooking,” Doyle explains.“To create 230 pans of succotash, we needed 36 cases of lima beans, 36 cases of corn, 12 cases of diced tomatoes. That means (they’re) preserved, like in our family we would put up vegetables in the fall, can them in mason jars.” And, of course, don’t forget we’re baking, too: Bread pudding, big apple pies, pecan pies, fruit cobblers, cakes — and on and on. “Two years ago on Thanksgiving,” Doyle remembers, “I decided I wanted zucchini bread. I needed about 300 platters of it, so I started the day before and stayed here all night baking to the next morning.”
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(clockwise from above) Classics on Forks and Spoons: Your choice of Fish Fry Dinner on a fork with cheese grits, fried catfish, collard greens and tartar sauce or Beef and Potatoes with seared beef tenderloin, truffled mashed potatoes and demi glace caviar drops. Cassoulet Trio: white bean and country ham, duck and Andouille sausage, smoked chicken and orange lentil. Party for Four: cherry Bourbon smoked pork chops, sugar roasted apples with roasted potatoes and grilled corn. Jumbo lump crab salad with a chayote and jicama slaw.
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For zucchini bread? “You could say I’m obsessed.” But not stuck on down home cooking. Doyle is all about the high end of dining, as well. In his first jobs after attending Johnson and Wales College of Culinary Arts, in North Miami, Doyle helped well-heeled clients opening high-end restaurants in Miami. “And closing just as many,” he adds, with a laugh. “It’s a very tough business.” But he was operating at the top end of cuisine. At Johnson and Wales, he had studied with Patricia Wilson, now a James Beard award-winning chef, and later he cooked with Chef Carlos Fernandez at the celebrated Highlight Café. But finally, for a bit of career security, he signed on with Levy Restaurants and took a position at American Airlines Arena. “And all of a sudden, what I’d been doing for 100 people, I’m doing it for 20,000 people. Sometimes more.” At Churchill, the level of cuisine seems to rise by floors to the upper reaches of exclusive boxes — such as the Finish Line Box where Queen Elizabeth II took in the 2008 Kentucky Derby. Up there, in the billionaire’s nests above Millionaire’s Row, the menu soars above home-cooked recipes, not just on Derby Day, but on Oaks Day, Breeder’s Cup Day, and for other special events, such as concerts by The Police and the Rolling Stones. For the historic first night of night racing this past summer, Churchill Downs wanted a special high-end event to crown the festivities, so Levy Restaurants called in Chef Tony Mantuano, the chef-owner of Spiagga, in Chicago — who President Barack Obama has called his favorite chef. “Tony is a James Beard chef, and we had a five-course meal experience with him here we call Dinners by Design. Four of the courses came out of Tony’s cookbook, and one from ours,” Doyle says. “I’d met Tony before, but that’s the first time I got to cook with him. He and I gave demos for the guests, with the guests coming in by twos to be close to the cooking experience. It was a blast! And I cooked some of the best food I’ve ever cooked. “We made simple, Italian food,” says Doyle. “But we’re not talking spaghetti and meat balls here. Check out the menu on the Spiagga website. One dish we made was Tony’s ravioletta.” That Jo-Jo Doyle would end up a chef was almost inevitable. His dad is a retired
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Tallahassee, Florida homicide detective, and bomb squad technician. And many family members are either in law enforcement or teachers. But at home, all hands gathered around the kitchen and cooked. Doyle’s extended family is stretched across the Gulf Coast from Tallahassee to Mobile, Alabama, and on to New Orleans. “When I was 18, in my first year at college, I had thought about becoming a chef, but hadn’t decided on it yet,” Doyle recalls. “When my grandmother Peg passed away, I was digging through the kitchen and I found her three little boxes of recipes. One was a little more special, that I think she got by saving up coupons from maybe Kraft Foods, and they sent you a box for recipes. I was thinking, ‘I’m going to write all these recipes down so nobody forgets how she made things — like her world famous crab omelet, or her homemade mayonnaise.’ ” His uncle got in on the project, typing the recipes that the family grew up on, and others. “We made a book with every one of my family’s secret recipes, all our favorites. My Uncle John is retired from the Secret Service, and he makes phenomenal dirty rice. So his recipe is called Secret Service to the Family Dirty Rice from Uncle John. There’s a picture of Johnny when he was in the Army. It’s years old. Every restaurant I’ve worked in, the cookbook has traveled with me. It’s called ‘Food for Thought.’ It’s got things like some of my grandmother’s sayings in it.” As important as the recipes, of course, is Doyle’s notion of family. He and his wife Gina have three boys, Colin 9, Jaden 6 and Logan 4 — with a baby girl on the way. Keeping the tradition rolling. “So it’s full circle for me from where I came from — that on the biggest day of the year, on Derby Day, to be able to serve my family’s food. Pretty cool. It’s not the whole menu. But to be able to add a couple of touches — it’s my little shout out to the people who raised me.” On a recent day, Jo-Jo Doyle sat in front of a computer in a cramped office he shares with right-hand-person Donna Hunter, who was in Chicago cooking for Levy Restaurants at the PGA championship. Through a big glass window there is a long, long row of stoves, with huge hoods and vents above.The kitchen isn’t all white and gleaming stainless steel like one might expect, it’s more brick and red-walled. And not as big as you’d imagine. For Derby
Week, portable kitchens and refrigeration units are vanned in, and Levy drives in a complete “Kitchen-to-Go” truck that is parked at the delivery dock and plugged in to gas, water and electricity. The union kitchen swells from 50 to 145 for the Kentucky Derby, plus 150 meat carvers who operate in the dining areas. Also on board are 60 or so culinary students from colleges in Pennsylvania and New York, getting a taste of how Derby is done. For all its big events, such as golf ’s U.S. Open, or a Super Bowl, Levy’s ships in top talent, too. Twenty-five additional chefs will team with Doyle for the Kentucky Derby. Down the hallway Doyle pointed to a small coffee maker perched on a shelf. “That’s our little coffee maker, and I like to grab a cup and take it with me after I’ve got things going in the morning Derby week.” The chef arrives at 3 a.m. each day Derby week, with big crowds soon arriving for breakfast (think bacon and eggs for 2,000) at Dawn at the Downs — a chance to see the horses work out in morning training over the famous track. Doyle says he doesn’t get nervous about the Derby, “I get obsessed. My wife Gina bought me a T-shirt that says, ‘Eat, sleep and drink Derby.’ And it’s true, the amount of time I think about it, and all the weird little systems I have for taking notes. Like I’ll even take a grease pencil into the shower with me and write notes on the wall about something we might want to do for next year’s Derby. Or something we could do in the Turf Club. Gina makes fun of me for it, but she’s the rock I stand on to do all of this. “A little boy from Tallahassee, showing up being executive chef at Churchill Downs,” he says. “It used to be about one plate, and now it’s about hundreds and hundreds of plates, and making sure everyone’s experience is the best. I look up there and think that in every one of those empty seats will be someone I will touch somehow.” F&D
Churchill Downs Where: 700 Central Avenue Phone: (502) 636-4400 Online: Churchilldowns.com When: Live Racing November 1st through 28th (dark Mondays and Tuesdays). 2010 Spring Meet runs April 25 through July 5. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 39
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BY TOM DANYLUK | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY
Bourbon Country — North Chicago has a love affair with Kentucky’s finest spirit Cool, classy Chicago is the star of the Midwest and a city that woos the senses.You can see it is a baseball town, and you can smell that it is a steak town. And if you’re really paying attention, you can almost hear Al Capone, in that crisp Canali suit, reminding you, “Hey wise guy. It’s a Bourbon town, too.” “When I sell liquor, it’s called bootlegging,” he moaned.“When my patrons serve it on Lake Shore Drive, it’s called hospitality.” Mike Miller owns a whiskey shrine they call Delilah’s (www.DelilahsChicago.com) in the city’s Lakeview section. A darkened place … the stripped décor, with tables and chairs and rows of bottles. A real midnight feel to it, and that’s appropriate because Miller is backing Capone’s ghost on this one. “Chicago is a Bourbon town,” says the saloon’s 42-year-old owner. “It’s been a Bourbon town since Prohibition. And people in Kentucky will tell you, when they were selling something under the table back then, nine times out of 10 it was being sold to someone from Chicago … or headed that way. This town was the primary Bourbon market during the 13 years of Prohibition, and is now probably the biggest Bourbon market in the world outside of Kentucky.” And there they stand — a staid army of some 700 scotches and whiskeys — guarding the post at Delilah’s. Soldiers of different ranks and nations. 125 of them shipped in from Kentucky. Miller lines up a pour of his rare Buffalo Trace Cabernet Franc (14-year) and tells you how he sees the influence of Bourbon and Bluegrass whiskeys around Chicago these days. “More and more the esoteric whiskeys are becoming popular here,” says Miller. “People are gravitating to things that are outside the norm, where the distillers are experimenting with the barreling, or the grain mix. We sell a lot of rye, which has muscled its way back into the American bar scene. I have a lot of customers coming here and treating Delilah’s as a tasting room — to learn. “So why is rye back? Why is absinthe suddenly back? Why are classic cocktails back? Well, let’s take a look at our overall society. Let’s go back to 1982. I was in high school then. I didn’t have a cell phone. I didn’t know what a text message was. We didn’t have them computin’ machines. Access to information was far different, access to what was going on in other parts of the world was far different. So does the increase in people’s interest in [rye, absinthe, etc.] go hand-in-hand with the availability of information? I think so. “For example, if you want to make a classic cocktail and you want to know what Demerara rum is, what did you do then? You went to the library.What do you do now? You Google it.You can find out what these things are in seconds as opposed to days. So the availability of the information has led to the evolution of the customers who want these products.” Hollis Bulleit of Lawrenceburg’s Bulleit Bourbon (www.bulleit bourbon.com) promotes the family product in Chicago, and she 40 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
sees the revival of the classic cocktail as an overdue grin on the face of social drinking in America’s bigger cities — yes, finally! “It’s pleasing to see the trend in drinking move from one of masking alcohol to marrying it within cocktails,” she says. “And Bourbon is definitely taking its place in the resurgence — the OldFashioned, the Whiskey Sour, the Whiskey Collins, even the Manhattan. You can find these drinks in the Speakeasies that are popping up in New York and Los Angeles … and now in Chicago. “The alcohol experience in America has devolved into a quick fix,” says Bulleit. “You drown in light beer and vodka. It’s a hollow experience — you go out and you get drunk. Look at the Grey Goose crowd. They take their clear, flavorless ‘favorite’ and drown it in something like cranberry juice or tonic and throw it back. It’s the rush to the bottom of the glass, and it’s become a reflection of our society.The disappearing attention span.” Miller, however, howls when you start breeding the fine Bourbons with the big city trends. He’s a purist, and if he senses you’re getting too fancy with the merchandise there’s a cringe, like witnessing the smear of A-1 sauce onto a 50-dollar Rush Street ribeye. “I think spirits best mix with a glass,” Miller says, “and that’s how Delilah’s promotes spirits — straight. We sell a lot of classic cocktails, but yes, it’s a trend. And what’s the nature of a trend? It comes and it goes. So it came-and-went as a classic, and it will come-and-go in a modern version of the classic. “What I like to see in people’s interest in classic cocktails is that it leads to experimenting, being innovative with those products and ingredients and recipes. If you want to serve truly classic cocktails, you still have to take into context the contents of those drinks. “You have to take into consideration what ingredients we’re talking about. Are we going to make cocktails with egg whites? No, because I’m not going to store egg whites in my bar. Did they have cranberry concentrate 80 years ago? Did they have a soda gun? So the replication of the classic cocktail has to go into that context.” Dave Soto is the whiskey buyer for a megaplex known as Sam’s Wine and Spirits (www.Samswine.com). It’s Chicagoland’s largest retail outlet for alcohol products, and what troubles Soto these days is that there just ain’t enough of a good thing around town anymore. “Chicagoans have become used to a higher quality and flavor in their whiskeys, but what’s really affecting the Chicago market is that the older Bourbons are disappearing,” Soto says. “They’re the most in demand, but at this point they’re basically gone. “For example, look at Black Maple Hill. I had a whole cult following — the 11-year, the 14, the 18 … the 21. People loved it. They went berserk. And then all of a sudden you can’t get those years anymore. Only the small batch, a mix of different
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years. Customers have been calling me in a panic, but there’s just not enough supply anymore. It’ll be years before they start circulating back. “Meanwhile, what’s come to the rescue in a way are the ryes. Quality ones have emerged, with full, intense flavors. Which is why I think rye will be part of the Chicago scene for some time. It also lends to the cocktail culture that is still evolving here. There’s no doubt that more and more bars — even the mid-level bars — are becoming interested in refining that craft. Five years ago if you’d ask for a Sazerac or an Old-Fashioned, you’d see the bartender subtly reaching for the little black book behind the bar.” These days they just smile and reach for Kentucky’s finest.
Spiced Cranberry Old-Fashioned Zed (739 N. Clark St., 312-266-6691) Late November captured in a glass. A batch of Woodford Reserve is rested for 72 hours in a blend of hazelnut, nutmeg and cinnamon, then the seasoned Bourbon is introduced to a heavy muddle of fresh oranges and … cranberries? Hey, somehow it works, the berries loosely holding the whiskey’s hand, like an unsure couple on a second date. 1 ounce fresh sour mix (lemon, lime, orange juices with simple syrup) 2 ounces spiced Bourbon Splash of water
Brown Derby Motel Bar (600 W. Chicago Ave., 312-822-2900) “When I first started this place, I went on Ebay and bid on every vintage cocktail book I could find,” laughs owner Hubie Greenwald. “Unfor tunately, I won about 40 of them.” Greenwald uses the dustiest recipe he can find in fashioning his fine cocktail array. The oldest? “My Tom Collins — circa 1880. From the Planter’s Hotel in St. Louis.” For Motel Bar’s terrific Brown Derby mix he sticks with the original — from the Brown Derby restaurant of Los Angeles, 1929. 1 ounce clover honey (about 1 1/2 teaspoons) 1 1/2 ounces grapefruit juice 2 ounces soda water 2 ounces Knob Creek Bourbon
Midnight Manhattan Whiskey Bar and Grill (1015 North Rush St., 312-475-0300) “Call it a cross between a whiskey sour and a Manhattan,” says the blonde behind the bar, Grace Carl. Which makes it neither. A pleasant concoction, but ask your bartender
to lean more toward the Manhattan side of things, i.e. a slightly longer pour on the whiskey. 2 ounces Woodford Reserve Bourbon 1 ounce Grand Marnier Splash white cranberry juice Splash sweet & sour mix Maraschino garnish
“Come quickly! I am tasting stars! ” — Dom Perignon, 1638-1714 at his first sip of champagne
‘Tis the season for bubbles! In addition to interesting wines, seasonal beers and artisanal cheeses we carry more than 70 sensational champagnes and sparkling wines to fit every list.
The Old-Fashioned NoMI (Park Hyatt Chicago, 800 North Michigan Ave., 312-239-4030) A handsome drink, elegantly layered. Nothing muddled or out of place here. Grace notes abound — an undisturbed brown sugar cube … a sharp pair of bitters (one West Indian orange, the other whiskey barrel-aged) sharing that duty … and then a spear of delicate sour cherries that have been carefully polished in a swirl of brandy and simple syrup.Terrific. 2 ounces Woodford Reserve Bourbon 2 dashes bitters 1 brown sugar cube Garnish with orange slice, brandied cherries
LESS THAN TWENTY DOLLARS Saint-Hilaire
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For stress-free shopping this holiday season give “the stars” or any of our other unique gifts.
Kentucky Kiss The Bar at David Burke’s Primehouse (616 North Rush St., 312-660-6000) A modest creation of the wine staff at Primehouse for the linen suit and sundress crowd. “We always feature a Bourbon cocktail, one that rotates with the seasons,” says sommelier Rory Gurland.“For summer, the goal here is always something light and easy. Refreshing. It’s more of a feminine Bourbon drink, but since we attract a lot of vodka drinkers here, it serves as a nice bridge on our menu.” A taste of Chicago for July and August. 1 1/2 ounces Bulleit Bourbon 1 ounce grapefruit juice 1 ounce sparkling white wine Lemon twist garnish
1529 Bardstown Road Drive Thru Open 7 Days a Week www.OldTownWine.com 502.451.8591
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BY DAVID LANGE
Coffee and Tea Gift Ideas
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As we near the holiday season, prospective shoppers are riddled with the ever present question, “What do you buy for someone who has everything?” You want to make an impression, but you’re not sure if you can find that “special gift” that will find a place in his (or her) heart. I may have found a solution that will give your special friend a true reason for getting out of bed. I recently came across a list of very exotic and unique coffees for the thoughtful giver who wants to get the caffeine fanatic a truly exclusive gift. This list gives the particular coffee, the individual roaster, the cost, and where to find more individual information about the coffee. The coffees listed come in no particular order, but stand on their merit that includes flavor, aroma and body. Hacienda la Esmeralda (Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea) $30.00 for 8 ounces
Karaba (Counter Culture Coffee) $11.75 for 12 ounces
This Panamanian estate coffee won the Best of Panama coffee competition in 2004 and has been widely sought after ever since. Because of its unique characteristics, the price for this prized coffee has skyrocketed since. It is believed to be an heirloom varietal of a very rare arabica coffee called geisha. It has a heady aroma of chocolate and currant and Central America’s bright, acidic flavor. www.intelligentsiacoffee.com.
This is a most unique and rare coffee mostly because of its origin. French missionaries introduced this heirloom, and Rwanda has been producing it for more than 100 years. During the 1990s, Rwanda’s coffee industry was almost destroyed by civil war. But its growers worked hard to maintain their excellent coffee and it shows in this distinctive elixir. It begins with a nose of molasses and then the complexity of the coffee releases nutmeg and cinnamon characteristics. www.counterculturecoffee.com.
Major Dickason’s Blend (Peet’s Coffee & Tea) $12.95 per pound This blend of Central American and Pacific Rim coffees is Peet’s signature blend. Peet’s was one of the United States’ first coffee companies to source and roast its beans to order. This particular blend possesses a very mellow aroma and an intense, round, nutty flavor. www.peets.com.
Guatemala Finca El Injerto (Stumptown Coffee Roasters) $15.50 per pound Grown in Huehuetenango, Guatemala by coffee grower Arturo Aguirre on his farm El Injerto, these Bourbon varietal beans are truly a delight. This coffee is grown with extra loving care and intense attention to detail and it has twice won the Cup of Excellence competition given by the Alliance for Coffee Excellence, Inc. coffee award. Having a very faint nose of rose petals and a toastedalmond finish, this medium roast coffee has all of the essentials to be a coffee classic. www.stumptowncoffee.com. 42 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
Italian Roast (Sant’Eustachio) $20.00 for 8.45 ounces This Italian Roast is a custom blend that is found at Rome’s 70 year-old Caffe Sant’Eustachio.The owner, Roberto Ricci, roasts the coffee in a 60-year-old wood-fired roaster. Its alluring gingerbread and vanilla aroma and rich body is based on this proprietary blend of coffees from Guatemala, the Dominican Republic, Mexico, Brazil and Tanzania. www.santeustachioilcaffe.it.
Sumatra Iskander (Gimme! Coffee) $14.25 per pound Sumatra is known for its rich volcanic soil and tropical climate. These conditions combine to produce ideal growing conditions and this coffee exudes a spicy aroma and deep, robust taste of cedar. Part of the richness of this coffee is because the roaster uses a convection oven to roast coffee in small, 40-pound batches. www.gimmecoffee.com.
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Kenya AA Flametree (Consumers Choice Coffee) $14.00 per pound An estate coffee that is hand-selected and sorted in the high altitude of Mount Kenya. This coffee is from the land of the Kikuyu (a local native tribe), and was made famous in Elspeth Huxley’s book, The Flame Trees of Thika — 1959. (The leaves on the local trees are a flame color.) This full-bodied coffee is a lively coffee with a slight citrus and a hint of berry flavor. www.consumerschoicecoffee.com.
Nell’s Breakfast Blend (Green Mountain Coffee Roasters) $7.49 for 10 ounces An organic blend that blends the boldness of Peruvian coffee and the depth from Indonesian coffee. Though produced by a roaster known for quality coffee for the mass market, this particular blend stands up well against other organics. www.greenmountaincoffee.com.
If tea is more appealing to your special recipient, warm him or her with exciting blends of teas that have been introduced this year. Some that I have found intriguing: Dong Ding Oolong (Le Palais Gourmet) $53.00 for 3.5 ounces
Shifeng Longjing (Grand Tea) $13.80 for 25 grams or .87 ounce
Dong Ding (also called Tung Ting and meaning “Cold Summit”) is a Formosa (or Taiwanese) oolong grown at some altitude. The leaves, water added, emit a sweetly floral and even creamy scent. The leaves begin to swell and unfold rapidly in the water.The leaf infusion is a fantastic spring green color. It’s the palest green with a glow to the liquor that begs to be enjoyed before sipping. The flavor of the tea follows very closely on the heels of the scent. It’s distinctly floral and slightly creamy.The flavor is beautiful, very light and refreshing. www.lepalaisgourmet.com.
The tea is a pale yellow color with a sweet, slightly grassy flavor, and just a hint of soy-like nuttiness. It is mild, gentle, and easydrinking. This is an approachable green tea that lacks the vegetal and bitter properties that can sometimes turn people off from green tea. I found this tea to be a great representation of its tea type; this is what Dragonwell should look and taste like. Because of its light-bodied flavor, I can see this tea pairing well with light meals, particularly vegetable-heavy meals. www.grandtea.com.
Indian Chai (Tea Gschwendner) $8.90 for 100 grams or 3.53 ounces This isn’t the type of chai that steams out of grandma’s cottage; this is the chai that steams out of the guru’s tent. It has enough emotion to carry through a difficult day by sheer will. The cinnamon and clove aroma and the tingle on the tongue serve a purpose. www.teamerchants.com.
Chocolate Honeybush (Local Coffee & Tea) $9.00 for 2 ounces The tea is smooth and just the slightest bit creamy, with a wonderfully sweet and nutty aftertaste.Though the chocolate and caramel notes are detectable, they do not mask the natural flavor of the honeybush. Sometimes flavor additions completely overpower the tea base, but in this case, I could still easily taste that sweet and somewhat nutty honeybush flavor. www.localcoffeeandtea.com.
I hope this will give you some ideas for that hard-to-buy-for individual. As Sir James Mackintosh stated, “The powers of a man’s mind are directly proportioned to the quantity of coffee he drinks.” So drink heartily. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 43
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people and places profiles
BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
Hallmark Continues to Evolve The pleasures of local crops is the soul of Jack’s
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Dean Corbett is a star in the local culinary firmament. As a respected chef and businessman, he operates three highly-regarded restaurants — Equus, Jack’s Lounge, and Corbett’s — regularly co-hosts the locally-produced television show Secrets of Louisville Chefs Live, and even markets a retail line of sauces and soups. Corbett is also an inspiration and friend to dozens in the restaurant business, actively supports local farmers and producers, and is rarely timid about going to bat for charitable causes. Through it all, he exudes an enthusiasm and energy that is contagious. While opinions may vary on the benefits of multitasking, it seems to suit Corbett’s personality well. During a morning visit in the kitchen at Jack’s Lounge, he seamlessly moved between chopping ingredients to get a kettle of Bolognese sauce simmering, avoided technicians pulling hundreds of feet of cable for a new computer system, dealt with an estimator for new carpeting, talked with staff, and picked out a selection of heirloom tomatoes from a gardener who came by. In a tough business, the Louisville native has a business savvy, which he claimed started developing as a student at Trinity High School and was refined in college. Joining it with a life as a chef became obvious in the process. “When I went off to college and studied business, I tried a lot of things. I even got an EMT certification and worked driving an ambulance,” Corbett said. “But cooking was something I always came back to. Really, I tried everything else.” After returning to Louisville in 1982, he got serious about a career as a chef and started at Louisville’s renowned Casa Grisanti, a restaurant which was the training ground for a generation of successful Louisville chefs. Under Dominic Serratore and Mark Stevens, Corbett said he worked his way through the kitchen hierarchy as a line cook, grill chef, pantry manager, soufflé chef to veal and fish.
Chef Dean Corbett
Jack’s Lounge “It was a great environment watching and learning from those two,” Corbett said, chuckling about the recollection. “When you were considered competent, that’s when they let you cook veal and fish.” Corbett’s competency earned him the position as sous chef under Stevens at Casa Grisanti’s sister restaurant, 6th Avenue, which specialized in a progressive presentation of American cuisine. 44 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
(502) 897-9026 122 Sears Ave.
He says the most impor tant lesson he took away from his apprenticeship was good organization. “Mise en place,” Corbett said. “It means being in a constant state of readiness.” The lesson served well when his father, John S.“Jack” Corbett, suggested they join forces and urged Dean to step out on his own just a few years later. “Mom had just died in 1985 when Dad bankrolled us buying
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into Equus, at the time a foundering restaurant which didn’t seem to know what it was doing. Even the name was misspelled.” Corbett said. “Dad handled the front of the house, marketing and finance and I took care of the kitchen.” “Being ready” paid off, and under the Corbetts, Equus quickly became a hallmark of fine dining in Louisville. Jack’s Lounge, which Corbett opened in the same building in 2000, is in fact an homage to his father, his joi de vivre and the spirit which urged his kids “to go for it.” “My dad died on November 27, 1999 and the following June we had a par ty celebrating taking over the adjoining space,” Corbett said. “We literally broke through the wall with sledgehammers that night and drank champagne. It was a great catharsis and a way to deal with my grief.”
Cozy Intimacy with a Clubby Feel In Jack’s, people sit chatting in intimate groups, relaxing in plush leather easy chairs and couches which are clustered around small tables topped with flickering candles. Gold walls, dark ceilings and an abundance of mahogany molding adorn a space that suggests the members’ lounge in an exclusive metropolitan club. Sconce lighting, large-slat Venetian blinds, artwork and photos of thoroughbreds add to the ambiance while a mixture of low, mid- and bar-high tables lends an urban, jazzy vibe. “I had traveled a bit by then and wanted to have a version of a martini lounge with couches and a refined setting,” Corbett said. “It’s still timely.” At first, Jack’s seemed a refuge for smokers or diners who
wanted just an after-work drink and maybe a snack. But as smoking waned, the relaxed style and smaller-plate ease of Jack’s grew in popularity and has come to represent a majority of the business at both restaurants, especially after a re-focusing early this year. “We instituted a big price cut in January because we knew the economy was affecting everybody, the game just wasn’t the same,” Corbett said. “We cut our menu pricing one-third to onehalf and the response has been great.” Like the surroundings — indulgent and satisfying — food at Jack’s Lounge usually makes for a memorable experience. The kitchen repeatedly surprises with its ability to take simple, often local ingredients, and cook them to capture an ideal blend of flavors. This pleasant surprise happens repeatedly whether you are enjoying pot roast with truffled mashed potatoes ($14.95), slowbaked beef brisket with mashed potatoes ($18), or a vegetarian risotto made with seasonal vegetables and mushroom truffle cream ($14). And there are more complex presentations, like the signature Parmesan encrusted Chilean sea bass served with lemon dill butter and fried leeks ($26). Other entrées are equally engaging, even riveting. Sea scallops served with a bacon-corn-leek hash and creamy, truffled grits ($24) might set the standard for what can be done both with scallops and grits. A prime beef filet, when accompanied by mashed fingerling potatoes and seasonal mushrooms in a brandied cream sauce (at $27, the most expensive entrée on the frequently changing menu) makes the phrase “joy of cooking” take on an immediacy you won’t soon forget.
Alaskan halibut fennel pollen crusted with English pea cream reduction and poached julienne of baby vegetables and leeks topped with tomato crawfish butter.
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(top) Rich woods and plush leather complete the club-like feel throughout Jack’s. (below) Sous-vide lamb (Australian) with tian of olive caponata, onion caramel and Yukon gold potatoes with micro beets and fried sweet potatoes.
46 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
Corbett admits to being a tinkerer and inventor. “I was so tired of fried calamari served with a remoulade sauce, I just had to develop something better,” Corbett said. “We sauté ours and serve it with a caponata sauce, a mixture of olives and onions, hot sauce and lemon.” Similar enjoyment can be had with the desserts (all $8), most of which border on the rapturous, according to blog posts and customer reviews. A “Mojito” cheesecake takes a Key lime flavored cheesecake and adds a dark rum glaze, candied mint and berry sauce. S’mores combine graham crackers, chocolate sauce and house-made marshmallows flamed to golden brown, raising a campfire treat to a Platonic ideal. Amaretto tiramisu, crème brûlée, and Equus chess cake with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce, all strike similar chords while lifting what could be the familial or commonplace to palate-pleasing heights. An excellent bar at Jack’s Lounge is a favorite of regulars who are attracted by well-made, tasty, high-test versions of their favorite cocktails. Both for connoisseurs and the less experienced wishing to explore, Jack’s offers the same ambitious wine list developed for Equus which has garnered three Wine Spectator awards and offers more than 100 selections. Behind all this one senses the spirit of a bon vivant who likes others to have a good time — whether it’s a barbecue on the back deck or enjoying an exquisitely prepared and plated dinner. Corbett, who is nimble with numbers (almost a savant when it comes to calculating hundreds of dollars worth of supplies) and knows how the percentages work in the restaurant business, is also humorous about others attracted to it. “When doctors or lawyers come in and say how much they are attracted by the romance of a restaurant and want to open one, I ask them one question: ‘Do you enjoy your family time, your vacations, celebrating the holidays, having money? Well go ahead and start a restaurant and you’ll lose it all.’ ” He also admits that it’s one of the most rewarding jobs you can find. “It’s totally the payback.The restaurant business is immediate,” Corbett said. “There’s no other place you know whether you succeeded like here. You get immediate gratification. And being here now — Louisville is now one of the greatest food towns in the country.” F&D
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Peking duck sautĂŠed with wild mushroom basmati pilaf, baby eggplant, squash poached in duck fat, sherry lavender gastrique and crispy shallots.
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people and places profiles
BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
South of the Border Gem Shines
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Saul Garcia came to America in 1986 as a migrant worker and to Louisville in 1992 as a frugal and optimistic restaurant worker determined to carve out a future. By any yardstick he has succeeded. Today, Garcia and his par tners own and operate six restaurants, with two more in the works. The latest iteration of Garcia’s vision is the Tequila Factory Bar & Grill, 917 Baxter Ave., in the Highlands. It is a high-ceilinged space of bare brick walls punctuated by wooden beams, arches and balustrades. Fan windows pour light into an interior dominated by a granite-topped bar behind which rise shelves displaying glassware and liquor all the way to the ceiling. Twenty-five brands of tequila alone are offered, and a pair of library ladders on a brass rail allow access to the highest reaches. It is here where the traditional roots of Mexican cuisine are sprouting a more sophisticated expression. “Mexico is unbelievably rich in culinary traditions, regional recipes, dishes and flavors,” Garcia said. “Here we are offering a more modern presentation which we want to be both attractive and pleasing to American tastes.”
A Long Journey
Garcia cuts a trim figure in khakis and a polo shirt, hinting at his past as a marathon runner and soccer aficionado, but his quiet manner belies a steely focus developed in a hardscrabble life which included several close brushes with death. Growing up on a farm in the state of Jalisco, northwest of Mexico City, Garcia at eight fought a two-year battle with leukemia
Tequila Factory owner Saul Garcia
Tequila Factory and the after-effects of the radiation treatments and chemotherapy. When taunted and ostracized by his peers at 11 for being so pale and gaunt, he fled his torment to live on the streets in Mexico City. “Restaurants were the only way to make some money at that age,” Garcia said, relating his effort to prove his independence before moving in with an uncle almost a year later. Garcia re-entered school, became an avid athlete, and made it to the university until his life was up-ended again when student strikes in 1986 shut down the campus and he ran out of money. Sponsored for a green card, he then made a harrowing 130-mile, six-day walk through the desert between Yuma, Ariz. and Indios, Calif. on his was to Fresno to work as a migrant laborer. “I came to the United States hoping to bank $1,000 and return to finish my education, but I fell in love with this country,” Garcia said. “Grapes, cucumbers, peaches, strawberries, whatever was in season — for three years (I picked them) and ultimately got to the Southeast.” 48 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
(502) 459- 9191 917 Baxter Ave.
While in Fayetteville, Nor th Carolina, he reached out to influence fate and returned to the bottom rung of restaurant work as a busboy while starting to learn English at the local technical college. Six years after his fateful desert walk, Garcia was invited to work at Mexico Tipico in Pleasure Ridge Park, one of the new, traditional Mexican restaurants in Louisville. Still single, frugal, and hopeful, his first impression on arrival ironically contained the seeds of his current success. “I remember it clearly. I arrived on a Sunday evening and was downtown at 6th and Main, trying to get directions out to Dixie Highway,” Garcia related.“I thought it was a beautiful city but there was no traffic in the streets and hardly any people about. There was something missing.” After working at Mexico Tipico five years, he felt ready to go out on his own and provide something of what was missing. In 1997, with his brother Manuel and two friends, they opened the first Los Aztecas on Herr Lane. With the optimism
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Blue mussels cooked in a blend of cilantro, garlic and jalape単o butter and finished with a shot of tequila.
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Tequila Factory’s steak fajitas and (below) shrimp ceviche.
and ambition that today are hallmarks of his projects, the next Los Aztecas opened a year later at 6th and Main, a third in Prospect in 2000, and a fourth on Taylorsville Road in 2001 (which was later bought and reopened by Faustino Dominguez as El Tarasco). Garcia’s timing was fortunate. Louisville, already sated on a diet of corporate, franchised Tex-Mex concepts, took to these more original versions with gusto. And each Los Aztecas, serving hefty por tions of good Mexican food in somewhat sparse, but authentic surroundings, was a success. The same held true for a follow-on cousin, Sol Aztecas, which opened in 2005 on Bardstown Road and 2008 on Frankfort Ave., each also offering the experience of reasonably priced, good Mexican food. But it is the Tequila Factory Bar & Grill in the Highlands that suggests, like the pyramid of tequilas climbing the bar wall, where Garcia’s instincts are headed. “We wanted a better atmosphere, presentation, and quality for people searching out Mexican food,” Garcia said.“Something beyond just tacos, enchiladas, rice and beans. We were trying a different look and pricing and committed to going step-by-step in teaching our customers about a more authentic style.”
Good Eats The Tequila Factory makes good on that promise by offering both the familiar territory of full-platter servings of typical Mexican fare as well as newer, more adventurous food including a tapas menu — smaller plates suitable as a light dinner or for sharing tastes while socializing with friends over a drink. During the day, lunch specials begin at $6.50 for quaintly numbered combination plates and go up to $8.50 for fajitas, pollo asado, carnitas (deep-friend seasoned pork), or a steak tampiqueno, six ounces of seasoned, charbroiled skirt steak served with rice and an enchilada. Dinner offerings continue familiar themes like the sizzling fajitas but also offer more items, still reasonably priced. There are four styles of enchiladas starting at $10, chicken flautas ($11), taquitos (small, crisp-fried rolled tacos stuffed with chicken or beef for $10), and chicken poblano, served with a mole and mild chile sauce at $13. The tequila special featuring both a shrimp and crab quesadilla and enchilada ($12.50), along with other seafood entrées and the tapas menu, signal the dimension Garcia hopes to explore at the Tequila Factory and, if successful, will get exposure at his other venues. But he goes refried-beans-and-rice one better with tapas, (all at $8.50), starting at 6 p.m. and including tequila lime chicken wings, empanadas (fried pastries stuffed with cheeses or seasoned meat), chicken and beef taquitos, cilantro pesto shrimp, and pinchos (grilled beef and shrimp kabobs basted with cilantro-lime butter). And the shrimp ceviche is crisp, citrus-cooked shrimp mixed with minced onions, tomatoes and chiles blended with cooling mango and sliced avocado. Served with sides of smoky pinto beans, cilantro-garlic rice and a slab of cornbread laced with melted cheese, it is a delightful dish. And to wash it down: the deepest selection of tequilas this side of Jalisco. Garcia’s menu lists 50 and he plans to 50 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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expand it. If you’re celebrating, get a glass of Herradura Suprema at $50 per shot.
Core Values While other chefs have carved out local success serving authentic Mexican regional cuisine (Bruce Ucan at Mayan Café and Israel Landin at La Rosita come to mind), it is Garcia’s commitment to his customers that characterizes the evolution of his business, “Service and quality have to be a first priority, and you have to be consistent,” Garcia said. “Our foundation is to use a lot of the flavors we use at home but to present it the way Americans like it.” When pressed to identify that American preference, he admits it is a hesitation to experiment with spice levels. “Yes, we don’t serve the spicy soups popular in Mexico,” Garcia said. “While we try to bring the same blend of flavors, we know you cannot make it too spicy. We are trying to appeal to 99.97 percent of American palates.” Garcia’s commitment to his customers includes introducing more intensely authentic dishes and the Tequila Factory may be the proving ground. “We are taking our chefs on rotations to Mexico City to learn the preparation of some wonderful food,” Garcia notes. “In a couple of weeks, we hope to add cochinita pibil (a traditional roast pork with an achiote herb sauce) and a tilapia and shrimp entrée with a mango sauce and pineapple pico de gallo. We are working on getting closer to the most traditional elements.”
In addition to his busy schedule of restaurant management and development, Garcia makes time three or four times each year to sponsor Latino sessions of the Louisville’s Citizen Police Academy. He also works with families in crisis by suppor ting Hombres Unido Para Una Vida Mejor (Men United For a Better Life). He’s involved in a soccer program and serves on a sports committee of the YMCA to encourage sporting programs for Hispanic youth. He celebrates family with his wife, Evangelina, daughters Denise and Jocelyn, and dotes on his young son, Cesar. He easily expresses self-deprecating humor about his enthusiasm for sports when responding to a question of what he does to relax: “I like watching soccer, but if your team is losing, you’re not really relaxing,” Garcia said. Whether focusing on staff development or pursuing opportunities for new restaurants, Garcia admits he prefers the people-oriented par t of his job more than the office and exhibiting his optimism, even in the midst of a stormy recession raking the restaurant industry. Two more Sol Aztecas are in the works, one scheduled to open Nov. 1 on Fourth Street next to the Seelbach Hotel and another next year in the Whiskey Row development at 2nd and Main streets near the new Louisville Arena. “We try to train all of our people to care, be attentive, to treat every customer the best,” Garcia said. “We tell them to try every day to make one new customer, to say, ‘Thank you for coming. See you tomorrow.’ ” F&D
A plate of chicken and beef taquitos served with chips and salsa and a top-shelf margarita.
All dishes prepared and styled by Tequila Factory General Manager Cristina Cortez.
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Alphabetical Index
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ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). UNMAPPED [ ] DENOTES MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.
Cuisine Style
RESTAURANT
72 73 74 74 75 75 75 75 71 70 60 60 67 78 78 64 80 81 67 76 76 76 76 77 56 66 77 78 72 77 67 68 62 80 63 57
Area Maps
82
dining guide
AFRICAN ASIAN/CHINESE ASIAN/FILIPINO ASIAN/JAPANESE ASIAN/KOREAN ASIAN/MONGOLIAN ASIAN/THAI ASIAN/VIETNAMESE BAR & GRILL BARBECUE BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY CAFÉS CAFETERIAS CAJUN/CREOLE CARIBBEAN/CUBAN CASUAL DINING COFFEE/TEA HOUSE DESSERTS/BAKERY ENTERTAINMENT DINING EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN EUROPEAN/GERMAN EUROPEAN/IRISH EUROPEAN/ITALIAN EUROPEAN/SPANISH FINE DINING HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN INDIAN MEXICAN MICROBREWERIES MIDDLE EASTERN PIZZA SANDWICH/DELI SEAFOOD SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX STEAKHOUSE UPSCALE CASUAL
MAP # DIRECTION
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
PG #
Overview (Index)
82
Downtown
84
Near East
85
East
86
South East
87
East
88
(Downtown Louisville) (Highlands – Crescent Hill) (St. Matthews) (Hikes Point – Buechel) (Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon)
South East
89 (Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown) North East 90 (River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd.) North East 90 (Westport Rd.) Far East 91 (Middletown) North East 91 (Prospect) South East 91 (Fern Creek) South 92 (Airport – Okolona) South West 93 (Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park) Indiana 94 (New Albany – Floyds Knobs) Indiana 95 (Clarksville) Indiana 95 (Jeffersonville)
52 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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#1 Asian Buffet 73 211 Clover Lane 56 60 West Bistro 57 610 Magnolia 56 732 Social 57 8 China Buffet 73 A Nice Restaurant 64 A Taste of China 73 A.J.’s Gyro Café 77 Acapulco Authentic Mexican 78 Adriann’s Around the Table 60 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Adrienne’s Italian 76 Ahoy Fish Hut 62 Al Watan 77 Alexander’s Pizzeria 67 Alley Cat Café 60 Amazing Grace Deli 68 Amici´ 76 Angelina’s Café 76 Angilo’s Pizza 67 Angio’s Restaurant 67 Ann’s by the River 67 Annie Café 75 Annie’s Pizza 67 Another Place 69 Applebee’s 64 Arandas Mexican Restaurant 78 Arni’s Pizza 67 Aroma Café 60 Asahi Japanese 74 Asian Buffet 73 Asian Moon 73 Asiatique 57 Aspen Creek Restaurant 64 Atrium Café 60 August Moon 73 Austin’s 57 Avalon 57 bd’s Mongolian Grill 75 B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 64 Babby’s Steakhouse 63 Backyard Burger 69 The Bakery 81 Bamboo House 73 Bank Shot Billiards 69 Bank Street Brewhouse 72 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 66 Basa Modern Vietnamese 57 Baxter Station 60 Bazos Mexican Grill 78 Bean Street Café 8o Bearno’s Pizza 67 Beef O’Brady’s 71 Behar Café 76 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 74 Bendoya Sushi Bar 74 Big Al’s Beeritaville 71 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 66 Bistro 42 76 Bistro 301 60 Bistro Le Relais 60 Blackstone Grille 57 Blimpie’s Subs 69 BLU Mediterranean Grille 58 Blue Dog Bakery 60 Blue Horse Café 64 Blue Lagoon 62 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 61 Blue Mule Sports Café 71 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 72 Bluegrass Grill & Bar 64 Bombay Grill 77 Bonefish Grill 62 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 67 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 70 Bosna-Mak 76 Bourbons Bistro 60 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 70 Bravo! 58 Breadworks 81 Brendan’s Restaurant & Pub 76 Bristol Bar & Grille 58 Brix Wine Bar 60 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 71 Browning’s Brewery 60 Bruce’s Smokehouse 70 Bruno’s Pizza 67 Bruno’s Pizzeria & Pub 67 Buca Di Beppo 76 Buck’s 56 Buckhead Mountain Grill 64 Buenos Dias Café 78
MAP #
Asian/Chinese 2 Fine Dining 3 Upscale Casual 3 Fine Dining 12 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Middle Eastern 14 Mexican 7 Cafés 9 Desserts/Bakery 16 European/Italian 16 Seafood 4 Middle Eastern 4 Pizza 16 Cafés 9 Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 12 European/Italian 5 Pizza 12 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining [8] Mexican 12 Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Asian/Chinese 4, 6 Upscale Casual 2 Casual Dining 11 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Asian/Mongolian 6 Casual Dining 5 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 6, 7 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Microbreweries 14 Home Style/Southern 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3, 6 Coffee/Tea House 14 Pizza [13] Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14, 15 European/Bosnian 12 Asian/Japanese 14 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 1 European/Italian 10 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Upscale Casual 10 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 12 Seafood 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 6 Microbreweries 1, 3 Casual Dining 7 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 2 Barbecue 11, 12 European/Bosnian 4 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 5 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 European/Irish 3 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10, 12, 16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Bar & Grill 5 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Barbecue 6 Pizza 14 Pizza 12 European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 12 Casual Dining 4,8, 12, 16 Mexican 15
RESTAURANT
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Buffalo Wild Wings 71 Buffalo Wings & Rings 71 Bulldog Café 61 Bunz Restaurant 64 Burger Boy 69 Butcher’s Best Deli 69 Butterfly Garden Café 61 Cachito Mio Cuban Café 78 Café 360 77 Café Fraiche 61 Café Lou Lou 60 Café Magnolia 64 Café Mimosa 75 Café Palacio 69 Café Thuy Van 75 Caffe Classico 80 Cake Flour 81 California Pizza Kitchen 67 Calistoga Bakery Café 69 Cancun Mexican Grill 78 The Cape Codder 62 Captain Pepper Jack’s 77 Captain’s Quarters 64 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 64 Carly Rae’s 64 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 62 Carolyn’s 66 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 76 Caspian Grill Persian Bistro 77 Cat Box Deli 69 Catfish Haven Restaurant 62 Caviar Japanese Rest. 58 Cellar Door Chocolates 81 Champions Grill 64 Champion’s Sports Rest. 71 Charlestown Pizza Co. 68 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 71 Check’s Café 66 Cheddar Box Café 61 Cheddar’s Casual Café 64 The Cheesecake Factory 58 Chez Seneba African 72 The Chicago Gyro 69 Chick Inn 64 The Chicken House 66 Chicken King 66 Chili’s 64 China 1 73 China Buffet 73 China Castle 73 China Garden 73 China Inn 73 China King 73 China Taste 73 Chinese Chef 73 Chinese Express 73 Choi’s Asian Food Market 74 Chong Garden 73 Chopshop Salads 64 Chopsticks 73 Chopsticks House 73 Chrisanta’s Café 61 Cristy’s Bar & Bistro 64 Chung King 73 Cici’s 68 City Café 61 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 70 Clarksville Seafood 62 Clifton’s Pizza 68 Coach Lamp 58 Coco’s Bakery 81 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Cocos Lokos Caribbean 78 Coffee Crossing 80 Coffee Pot Café 80 Come Back Inn 76 Conez & Coneyz 69 Connor’s Place 71 Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 56 Corner Café 58 Cottage Café 66 Cottage Inn 66 Crave Café & Catering 61 Cravings a la Carte 67 Creekside Outpost & Café 61 Cricket’s Café 61 Crystal Chinese 73 Culver’s 64 Cumberland Brews 72 Cunningham’s 64 The Cupcake Shoppe 81 Cutter’s Wharf 64 Cyclers Café 61 D&C Diamond Café 64 Dakshin Indian Restaurant 77 Danish Express Pastries 69 Danny Boy’s 71 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 68 Day’s Espresso 80 De La Torre’s 77 Del Frisco’s 63 Delta Restaurant 71 Dem Bones BBQ 70 Derby Café 61 Derby City Dogs 69 Derby City Espresso 80
MAP #
Bar & Grill2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 8, 11 Cafés 12 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sandwich/Deli 10 Cafés 2, 3 Caribbean/Cuban 8 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Casual Dining 1 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Coffee/Tea House 2 Desserts/Bakery 1 Pizza 5 Sandwich/Deli 1,3 Mexican 6 Seafood 14 Middle Eastern 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Middle Eastern 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Seafood 13 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 2 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Pizza 16 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 16 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Chinese 13 Casual Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Desserts/Bakery 2 Caribbean/Cuban 6 Coffee/Tea House 14 Coffee/Tea House 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 Bar & Grill 14 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 12 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Cafés 15 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Desserts/Bakery 3 Casual Dining 10 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 2 Indian 11 Sandwich/Deli 3 Bar & Grill 16 Pizza 2 Coffee/Tea House 2 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Barbecue 16 Cafés 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Coffee/Tea House 1
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MAP #
Derby Dinner Playhouse 67 Entertainment Dining 16 The Dessert Gallery 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Desserts By Helen 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 1 Devino’s 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Diamond Pub & Billiards 72 Bar & Grill 3 Dinner Is Done 66 Home Style/Southern 9 Dino’s Down to Lunch 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ditto’s Grill 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 1 Don Pablos 78 Mexican 15 Dooley’s Bagels 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 7 Double Dragon 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Double Dragon II 73 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Double Dragon 8 73 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Downtown Diner & Coffee House 61 Cafés 14 Dragon King’s Daughter 74 Asian/Japanese 2 Dueling Grounds Café 61 Cafés 14 Dynasty Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 7 Eastern House 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Eggroll Machine 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Einstein Brothers Bagels 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 78 Mexican 15 El Caporal 79 Mexican 4,6,15 El Mundo 79 Mexican 2 El Nopal 79 Mexican 6, 8, 9, 12, 14 El Nopalito 79 Mexican 4, 11 El Rey Mexican 79 Mexican 4 El Rodeo Mexican 79 Mexican 13 El Tarasco 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 12 El Toro Cantina & Grill 79 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 73 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 73 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 56 Fine Dining 1 Equus 58 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Rest. 76 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 62 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Ernesto’s 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6 Eva Mae’s Creekside 64 Casual Dining 10 Expression Of You 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 The Falafel House 77 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 70 Barbecue 6, 15 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 68 Pizza 12 Fat Jimmy’s 68 Pizza 1, 2, 9 Feed Bag Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 8 Finley’s BBQ 70 Barbecue 1 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 70 Barbecue 1, 11, 13 Fireside Bar & Grill 65 Casual Dining 14 First Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 13 The Fish House 62 Seafood 2 The Fishery 62 Seafood 3 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 65 Casual Dining 8, 14 Five Points St. Matthews 60 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 76 European/German 12 Flanagans Ale House 72 Bar & Grill 2 Fork in the Road 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Forty Acres And A Mule 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Four King’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 72 Bar & Grill 3 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 70 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 69 Sandwich/Deli 7 Frolio’s Pizza 68 Pizza 12 Frontier Diner 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Fuji Asian Bistro 74 Asian/Japanese 13 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 74 Asian/Japanese 8, 9 Fun Food Café 62 Cafés 2 Furlongs 78 Cajun/Creole 5 Gasthaus 76 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 1 Genny’s Diner 66 Home Style/Southern 2 Gerstle’s Place 72 Bar & Grill 3 Golden Buddha 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Corral 66 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Golden Palace 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Star Chinese 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Wall 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Goose Creek Diner 65 Casual Dining 8 Granny’s Apron 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Granville Inn 72 Bar & Grill 12 Grape Leaf 77 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 72 Bar & Grill 12 Great Harvest Bread Co. 81 Desserts/Bakery 5, 14 Great Life Café 69 Cafés 6,8,15 Great Wall 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Hall’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 2 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 74 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy Dragon 73 Asian/Chinese 1 Hard Rock Café 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s House Of Brews 72 Bar & Grill 1 Harlow’s Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 12 Havana Rumba 78 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Hawksview Gallery 58 Upscale Casual 12 Hazelwood Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Heavenly Ham 69 Sandwich/Deli 14 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 2, 3 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Highland Coffee Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 74 Asian/Japanese 7 Hill Street Fish Fry 62 Seafood 12 Hitching Post Inn 72 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 Home Run Burgers & Fries 65 Casual Dining 6
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www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 53
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Homemade Ice Cream & Pie Kitchen 81Desserts 2, 3, 6, 8, 9, 11, 15 Hometown Buffet 66 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 Hometown Pizza 68 Pizza 7, 9 Honeybaked Café 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11 Hong Kong Chinese 73 Asian/Chinese 14 Hong Kong Fast Food 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 12 Hooters 65 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Howl at the Moon 67 Entertainment Dining 1 Hunan Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 11 Ichiban Samurai 74 Asian/Japanese 6 IHOP 65 Casual Dining 15 Improv Comedy Club 67 Entertainment Dining 1 Incredible Dave’s 67 Entertainment Dining 8 Indi’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 India Palace 77 Indian 5 Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub 72 Bar & Grill 7 Intermezzo Café & Cabaret 58 Upscale Casual 1 The International Mall 76 European/Italian 1 The Irish Rover 76 European/Irish 2, 7 Iroquois Pizza 68 Pizza 12 J. Alexander’s 58 Upscale Casual 3 J. Graham’s Café 62 Cafés 1 J. Gumbo’s 78 Cajun/Creole 1, 2, 5, 6, 8, 12 J. Harrods 59 Upscale Casual 10 Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 56 Fine Dining 14 Jack Fry’s 59 Upscale Casual 2 Jack’s Lounge 60 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Jackson’s Seafood 63 Seafood 14 Jade Garden Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Jade Palace 73 Asian/Chinese 7 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 72 Bar & Grill 5 Jane’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 4 Jasmine 73 Asian/Chinese 9 Jason’s Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 Java Brewing Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2, 9, 10 Jazzyblu 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 1 Jersey Mike’s Subs 69 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Jersey’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 15 Jessie’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Jimbo’s BBQ 70 Barbecue 12 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 69 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2, 3, 6, 14 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 68 Pizza 12 Joe Davola’s 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 Joe Huber Restaurant 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Joe Muggs 80 Coffee/Tea House 3, 8 Joe’s Crab Shack 63 Seafood 1 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 78 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 65 Casual Dining 5 John E’s 59 Upscale Casual 4 John O’Bryan’s Tavern 72 Bar & Grill 13 Johnny V’s 68 Pizza 6 Jucy’s Smokehouse 71 Barbecue 3 Jumbo Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Kansai Japanese Rest. 74 Asian/Japanese 15 Karem’s 65 Casual Dining 8 Kashmir Indian 77 Indian 2 Kayrouz Café 62 Cafés 3 KC’s Chicago Hotdog Stand 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 Kentucky BBQ Co. 71 Barbecue 2 Kern’s Korner 65 Casual Dining 2 King Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 3 Kingfish 63 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Kings Fast Food 66 Home Style/Southern 1 King’s Fried Chicken 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Kobe Japanese Steak 74 Asian/Japanese 16 Koreana II 75 Asian/Korean 12 KT’s 59 Upscale Casual 2 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 La Bamba 79 Mexican 2 La Bodega 77 European/Spanish 2 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 76 European/Italian 2 La Herradura 79 Mexican 15 La Monarca 79 Mexican 11 La Perla del Pacifico 79 Mexican 8 La Que 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 La Rosita Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 14, 15 La Rosita Taqueria 79 Mexican 15 La Tapatia 79 Mexican 2 La Vida Java Coffee Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 7 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 14 Las Gorditas 79 Mexican 11 Lee’s Korean 75 Asian/Korean 12 Legend’s 65 Casual Dining 14 Lemongrass Café 76 Asian/Vietnamese 3, 9 Liang’s Café 73 Asian/Chinese 8 The Lighthouse 72 Bar & Grill 16 Lil’ Loafers Bakery 70 Sandwich/Deli 12 Lilly’s 56 Fine Dining 2 Limestone 56 Fine Dining 5 Ling Ling 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 Little Chef 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 Liu’s Garden 73 Asian/Chinese 9 Logan’s Roadhouse 63 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 79 Mexican 12 Longhorn Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 70 Sandwich/Deli 2, 3 Los Aztecas 79 Mexican 1, 7, 10 Lotsa Pasta 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Louisville Grille 66 Home Style/Southern 1 Louisville Pizza Co. 68 Pizza 6 Luigi’s 68 Pizza 1 Lunch Today 70 Sandwich/Deli 16 54 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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Lylia’s Encore 59 Lynn’s Paradise Café 65 Ma Zerellas 68 Macca’s Florida Seafood 63 Maggie’s Grille 65 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 75 Maido Essential Japanese 74 Main Eatery 70 Maker’s Mark Lounge 59 Manhattan Grill 65 Mark’s Feed Store 71 Market Street Fish House 63 Martini Italian Bistro 76 Masterson’s 65 Max & Erma’s 65 Mayan Café 79 McAlister’s Deli 70 The Melting Pot 59 Meridian Café 62 Mexican Fiesta 80 Mexicano 80 Mexico Tipico 80 Mexico Viejo 80 Michael Murphy’s 72 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 74 Mike Linnig’s 63 Mimi’s Café 65 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 66 Mitchell’s Fish Market 63 Moe’s Southwest Grill 80 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 77 Molly Malone’s 76 The Monkey Wrench 65 Morris Deli & Catering 70 Morton’s of Chicago 63 Mr. Gattis 68 Mr. Lou’s 66 Mr. Z’s Kitchen 62 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 80 Muley’s Corner 65 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 65 My Bar 72 My Favorite Muffin 81 My Old KY Dinner Train 67 My Patria 80 Nancy’s Bagel Box 70 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 70 Napa River Grill 59 New Albanian Brewing Co. 68 New China 73 New Direction Bar & Grill 72 Nile Restaurant & Lounge 78 Nord’s Bakery 81 North End Café 59 NV Tavern 72 O’Charley’s 65 O’Dolly’s 66 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 76 The Oakroom 56 Oasis Japanese Restaurant 74 Oceanside Restaurant 77 Oishii Sushi 74 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 68 Old Louisville Coffee House 80 Old Spaghetti Factory 76 Old Stone Inn 59 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 71 The Olive Garden 76 Olivia’s Restaurant 59 Ollie’s Trolley 70 Omar’s Fast Food 77 On the Border 80 Onion Rest.Tea House 73 Orders Up Café & Deli 70 Oriental Express 73 Oriental House 73 Oriental Star 73 Original Impellizzeri’s 68 Osaka Sushi Bar 74 Otto’s Café 65 Our Best Restaurant 66 Outback Steakhouse 63 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 59 Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza 68 Palermo Viejo 77 Panda Chinese 73 Panera Bread Co. 70 Papa John’s 68 Passtime Fish House 63 Pat’s Steak House 63 Patrick O’Shea’s 76 The Patron 59 PattiCakes Café 62 Paul’s Fruit Market 70 Penn Station 70 Peppers Bar and Grill 65 Perfetto Pizza 68 Perkfection 80 Pesto’s Italian 76 Pho Binh Minh 76 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 The Pie Pantry 81 Pig City BBQ 71 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 71 Pita Delights 77 Pita Hut 77
MAP #
Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 15 Seafood 7 Casual Dining 6 Asian/Thai 16 Asian/Japanese 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 1 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 14 Seafood 14 European/Italian 8 Casual Dining 12 Casual Dining 6, 8 Mexican 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 9, 11,15 Upscale Casual 6 Cafés 3 Mexican 4, 11 Mexican 11 Mexican 9, 13 Mexican 2 Bar & Grill 1 Asian/Japanese 3 Seafood 13 Casual Dining 5 Home Style/Southern 2 Seafood 8 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 8, 11, 15 European/Spanish 7 European/Irish 2, 3 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Steakhouse 1 Pizza 4, 5, 12, 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Cafés 1 Coffee/Tea House 1 Casual Dining 6 Casual Dining 2 Bar & Grill 14 Desserts/Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 12 Mexican 5 Sandwich/Deli 1 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 7 Pizza 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Bar & Grill 8 Caribbean/Cuban 12 Desserts/Bakery 12 Cafés 2 Bar & Grill 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 Home Style/Southern 12 European/Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 Asian/Japanese 12 Middle Eastern 4 Asian/Japanese 2 Pizza 6 Coffee/Tea House 12 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 9 Barbecue 11 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 Upscale Casual 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Middle Eastern 12 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 Asian/Chinese 14 Sandwich/Deli 9 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 12 Pizza 2, 10 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Casual Dining 1 Home Style/Southern 11,12,16 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 Upscale Casual 5 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15 European/Spanish 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3, 6, 8, 12, 15 Pizza [30] Seafood 6 Steakhouse 2 European/Irish 1 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Sandwich/Deli [16] Casual Dining 1 Pizza 6 Coffee/Tea House 16 European/Italian 1 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Cafeterias 5, 6 Desserts/Bakery 13 Barbecue 9 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 2
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Pizza By The Guy 68 Pizza King 68 Pizza Place 68 Pizz-A-Roma 68 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 63 Porcini 76 Potstickers 73 Proof On Main 56 Pub Louisville 65 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 68 Puckers Bar & Grill 72 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Quarter Rest Café 80 Queen of Sheba 72 Queenie’s Soul Cuisine 67 Queue Café 62 Quick Wok 73 Quill’s Coffee Shop 80 Quizno’s Subs 70 Rafferty’s of Louisville 65 Ramsi’s Café 60 Ray Parrella’s 76 Ray’s Monkey House 80 Red Hot Roasters 80 Red Pepper Chinese Cuisine 73 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 65 Red Star Tavern 59 Red Sun Chinese 73 Red’s 70 Renbarger’s Brew Haus 72 Ri Ra Irish Pub 76 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 71 Riverbend Winery 59 River City Coffee House 80 River City Winery 60 Rivue 56 Road to Morroco 77 Rocky’s Sub Pub 76 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 76 Roosters 65 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 72 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 73 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 71 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Ruby Tuesday 66 The Rudyard Kipling 66 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 63 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 63 Ryan’s Steakhouse 63 Saffron’s 78 Safier Mediterranean Deli 78 Saint’s 72 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 74 Sakura Blue 74 Sala Thai 75 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Sam’s Food & Spirits 66 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 74 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 74 Schlotzsky’s Deli 70 Scotty’s Ribs 71 Scuddle’s Seafood 63 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 78 Senor Iguana’s 80 Sergio’s World Beers 72 Sesame Chinese 73 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Shack In The Back BBQ 71 Shady Lane Café 70 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 75 Shalimar Indian 77 Shane’s Rib Shack 71 Shanghai Restaurant 73 Sharom’s 63 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 76 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 78 Shogun 74 Shoney’s 66 Sichuan Garden 73 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 68 Simply Splendid Salads 66 Simply Thai 75 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 68 Sister Bean’s 80 Sitar Indian Restaurant 77 Skyline Chili 66 Slammer’s Sports Bar & Grill 72 Smoketown USA 71 Smokey Bones BBQ 71 Snappy Tomato 68 Sol Aztecas 80 Son Of A Sailor Seafood 63 Sonoma Coffee Café 80 Soupy’s 70 Spaghetti Shop 76 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 68 The Sports & Social Club 72 Sporting News Grill 72 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 63 Star Cruises 67 Starbucks Coffee 81 Starving Artist Café 70
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Pizza 5 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Pizza 2 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Asian/Chinese 2 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 1 Pizza 3 Bar & Grill 12 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 12, 15 Coffee/Tea House 6 African 4 Home Style/Southern 4 Cafés 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Coffee/Tea House 2 Sandwich/Deli [16] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 European/Italian 2 Coffee/Tea House 2 Coffee/Tea House 2 Asian/Chinese 2 Casual Dining 3, 8 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 2 European/Irish 1 Barbecue 1 Upscale Casual 1 Coffee/Tea House 2 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Fine Dining 1 Middle Eastern 1 European/Italian 16 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 12, 13 Bar & Grill 8 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Barbecue 12 Mexican 15 Casual Dining 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 1 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2 Asian/Filipino 2 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9 Barbecue 9 Seafood 14 Cajun/Creole 5 Mexican 12, 15 Bar & Grill 2 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 12 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 6, 12 Indian 6 Barbecue 7 Asian/Chinese 1 Seafood 11 European/Irish 2, 4 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 9, 12 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Pizza 1 Casual Dining 5 Asian/Thai 3 Pizza 15 Coffee/Tea House 12 Indian 2 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 13 Bar & Grill 13 Barbecue 1 Barbecue 6 Pizza 8, 10 Mexican 1, 2 Seafood 7 Coffee/Tea House 2 Sandwich/Deli 4 European/Italian 11, 14 Pizza 2, 8 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 12 Seafood 3 Entertainment Dining 16 Coffee/Tea House [35] Sandwich/Deli 5
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Steak N Shake 66 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 76 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 64 Steakhouse 8 Stop Lite Café 62 Cafés 1 Studio’s Grille & Pub 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 70 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 72 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee/Tea House 12 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 62 Cafés 2 Sweet Stuff Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 Sweet Surrender 62 Cafés 2 Sweet-Tee’s 67 Home Style/Southern 12 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Taco Bueno 80 Mexican 6 Taco Tico 80 Mexican 13 Tacos Toreados Taqueria 80 Mexican 6 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 12 TanThai Restaurant 75 Asian/Thai 14 TC’s Sandwich Shoppe 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 74 Asian/Chinese 8 Tengo sed Cantina 72 Bar & Grill 1 The Tequila Factory 80 Mexican 2 Texas Roadhouse 64 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 66 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 75 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Orchids 75 Asian/Thai 6 Thai Siam 75 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 75 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 75 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 72 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 62 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 62 Cafés 3 The Lunch Pail 62 Cafés 12 Theater Square Marketplace 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third Avenue Café 62 Cafés 1 Third Street Coffee House 81 Coffee/Tea House 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 70 Sandwich/Deli 12 Tiffany Cellar Café 62 Cafés 9 Toast On Market 66 Casual Dining 1, 14 Tokyo Japanese 75 Asian/Japanese 7 Tommy Lancaster’s Rest. 66 Casual Dining 14 Toni’s More Than Pizza 68 Pizza 12 Tony Boombozz 68 Pizza 3, 8 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 68 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 71 Barbecue 5 Trailside Café 81 Coffee/Tea House 7 Trellis Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 True Thai 75 Asian/Thai 11 Tubby’s Pizza 68 Pizza 7 Tucker’s 66 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Turkey Joe’s 72 Bar & Grill 8 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 76 European/Italian 12 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2 Uptown Café 59 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 59 Upscale Casual 2 Varsity Pizza & Pints 68 Pizza 8 Vic’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 14 Vietnam Kitchen 76 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 66 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 56 Fine Dining 1 Volare 77 European/Italian 2 VT’s Bubble Cup 81 Coffee/Tea House 2 W.W. Cousin’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 66 Casual Dining 7 The White Oak 59 Upscale Casual 1 Whitney’s Diner 62 Cafés 4 Wick’s Pizza 68 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13, 14 Wild Eggs 62 Cafés 3, 7 Wiltshire On Market 59 Upscale Casual 1 Windsor Restaurant & Garden 60 Upscale Casual 14 Windy City Pizzeria 68 Pizza 12 The Wing Zone 66 Casual Dining 12 Wings To Go 68 Pizza 14 Winston’s 57 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 62 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 74 Asian/Chinese 4 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 60 Upscale Casual 1 Yafa Café 62 Cafés 1 Yang Kee Noodle 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Yellow Cactus 80 Mexican 14 Yen Ching 74 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 74 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Yummy Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 12 Za’s Pizza 68 Pizza 2 Zahn’s Pizzeria & Pub 68 Pizza 16 Zanzabar 72 Bar & Grill 12 Zapata’s 80 Mexican 9 Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2 ZaZoo’s 72 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Zen Tea House 81 Coffee/Tea House 2 Zeppelin Café 62 Cafés 12 Z’s Fusion 57 Fine Dining 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 57 Fine Dining 5 www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 55
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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:
$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15–$20 $$ = $9–$14 $$$$ = $21 & up
RED = ADVERTISER
p = FULL BAR
h = LATE NIGHT
OPEN PAST 10 P.M.
✿ = VEGETARIAN f = OUTDOOR MENU ITEMS DINING AVAILABLE LIVE e = MUSIC = MENU ON-LINE ONLY ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.
211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andrew Smith has added a 1300 bottle wine cellar and private dining room to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine from long time Chef Troy Schuster. This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. $$$$ p f ✿ 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ p f ✿
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BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for over two decades. Former namesake and house manager Buck Heath recently retired, but the high quality of food and service remains. $$$ p f e ✿ CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ p ✿ JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ p h LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution approaching its quarter-century mark, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ p e ✿ LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt and former partner Michael Cunha have established a stylish and elegant
dining experience in the East End. Cunha’s friendly departure to train the next generation of chefs at Sullivan leaves the kitchen in Gerhardt’s capable hands. $$$$ p ✿ THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. After six years operating his own East End restaurant, Jim Gerhardt has returned as executive chef to the Oakroom which, during his prior eight-year run, he helped attain a AAA fourdiamond designation. He intends to keep his rating by melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ p ✿ PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 217-6360. Diners are as stimulated by the often startling contemporary art on the walls of this stylish spot in the posh, nationally noticed 21C Museum Hotel as they are by Chef Michael Paley’s edgy everchanging, creative menu. A hot tip: the restrooms won a national award for excellence. $$$ p ✿ RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 5684239. You can still get a revolving view of the city in this upscale dining room. But a major makeover in 2007 has completely transformed the dark old Flagship Room into a sleek black and white modern fantasy right out of an old Fred Astaire movie. $$$ p h ✿ SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers a broad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes. Nationally noted in many food magazines, Lamas has exposed diners to the cooking traditions of the Americas with his always interesting Gusto Latino wine dinners, another fine value in the dining scene. $$$$ p f h ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern
WE ARE 732 SOCIAL!
A NEW RESTAURANT FEATURING FARM-TO-TABLE FOODS, ORGANIC WINES & PRE-PROHIBITION COCKTAILS WITH AN EVOLVING MENU OF FRENCHINSPIRED COMFORT FOOD AND A STAFF DEDICATED TO THE DETAILS. WE ARE LOCATED AT THE BASE OF THE GREEN BUILDING IN THE EAST MARKET DISTRICT. IT IS NICE TO MEET YOU.
732 EAST MARKET STREET LOUISVILLE, KY 40202 502.583.6882 732SOCIAL.COM
56 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p e h ✿ WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S FUSION 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. Consummate restaurateur Mehrzad Sharbaiani (Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse) spent $2 million to remake this 10,500 square foot space into a cool, sophisticated oasis. Chef Dallas McGarity’s ingenious and delicious take on fusion cooking and the excellent service make this an exceptional dining experience at surprisingly reasonable prices. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich environs outside the Watterson. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p
60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar with an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails. Chef Mark Heil offers an appealing, fairly priced eclectic international menu. $$ p f e ✿ 732 SOCIAL 732 E. Market St., 583-6882. Since chef-owner Jayson Lewellyn opened the doors of his sleek, intimate spot in the midst of the NuLu art district, crowds have flowed in, both for the innovative small plates, always-changing menu, and the creative bartenders who practice the art of pre-Prohibition cocktail crafting. Dishes are designed to be shared, so be sure to bring a convivial and hungry group. $$$ p f ✿ ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ p f h ✿ AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p ✿ AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. With a new look and chef Laurence Agnew’s refocusing the menu on upscale value dining, Avalon has once again found its direction. We always try to sit on the threeseason patio, one of the best in the city. $$$ p f ✿ BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ p BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, Prospect, KY, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ p f ✿
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BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p ✿ BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f ✿ BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 2922585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant Renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ p f ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, adds a downtown presence with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanese-style Tatami Room for your group. $$$ p h ✿ THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$ p h ✿ COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. Hurricane Katrina blew chef Richard Lowe into town, bringing from New Orleans his Cajun/ Creole/Caribbean magic to Coach Lamp’s kitchen. The restored 137-year-old building has a classic bar on one side and an upscale white-tablecloth dining room on the other side. $$$ f ✿ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ✿ EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ p ✿ HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shephardsville, KY, 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$$ INTERMEZZO CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584-1265. The elegant restaurant space in Actor’s Theatre of Louisville’s historic building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e ✿ J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f ✿ 58 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p ✿ JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ p e h ✿ JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. Owner John Shanchuck caters to the horseracing crowd. Thirty years of framed Derby programs and winning tickets line the walls. But you don’t have to place a bet to enjoy this rambling Buechel restaurant. The Porterhouse steak tastes good in the Bob Baffert Room whether or not your horse came in. $$$$ p e ✿ KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f h ✿ LYLIA’S ENCORE 501 W. Main St., 245-7734. After two fine-dining shows (Kentucky Cove and Jarfi’s Bistro) went dark, management has decided to provide food service at a lower profile: Lylia’s Encore, operated by popular local Ladyfinger’s Catering, is a buffet-style eatery, open only before shows in the Center. $$$ p MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009. Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f h ✿ MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant
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memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p ✿ NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish new quarters of this popular, decade-old East End restaurant. With an expanded menu serving both lunch and dinner, it’s now anchoring Westport Village center, a trendy new hangout. $$$ p f h ✿ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770. Known for their hearty and interesting breakfast choices, The North End also satisfies diners at lunch and dinner. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine $$$ f h ✿ OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ p f e ✿ OLIVIA’S ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-6160. This huge, redbrick 19th century factory location houses the Goss Avenue Antique Mall and this stylish luncheon spot. Open 7 days a week, Chef Travis Hall (formerly of Eva Mae’s) offers soups, salads and daily specials. $ f ✿ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p h ✿ THE PATRON 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-1661. Chefowner Amber McCool is redefining her niche, opened only for weekly events like her Wax on Wednesdays, Burgers Beats and Beer and Sunday brunch. Other events occur as specials, call to find the details. $$$ p e h ✿
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RED STAR TAVERN 450 S. Fourth St., 568-5656. Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this chain operation in Fourth Street Live features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f h RIVERBEND WINERY 120 S. Tenth St., 540-5650. Watch the winemakers in action, crafting 20 varieties of wine from Kentucky-grown grapes, as you enjoy lunch or dinner in this upscale casual eatery just west of downtown. Weekly chefs dinners with wine pairings at reasonable prices. $$ p e ✿ UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. Across the street and a step downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café offers excellent fare with a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f ✿ VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian) THE WHITE OAK 620 E. Market St., 583-4177. Talented chefs Allen Heintzman and Charlie Melton offer a fresh take on Southern comfort food using classical techniques and local suppliers. Eighty-five percent of the meats and produce come from the state of Kentucky. Look for dishes such as Southern-style fried chicken, cornmeal-dusted fried catfish and chicken-fried bison steak on the ever changing menu. $$ p f e h ✿ WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this new restaurant from Susan Hershberg, who set the benchmark for fine catering
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in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry. Chef Coby Ming’s finely crafted small plates change weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients available and no dish is over $15. Open Thur. - Sat. only. Reservations suggested. $$ f ✿
of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ p h ✿
WINDSOR RESTAURANT & GARDEN 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-9688. With New Albany on the rise, new chef Cory Cuff is making his mark on this upscale casual restaurant, housed in an historic hotel building. When weather permits, diners can enjoy the charming courtyard. $$$ p f e ✿
FIVE POINTS ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 896-5680. The last time this location enjoyed success was when it was know as Rick’s. After four short-lived incarnations, Five Points St. Matthews is poised to reclaim that success by playing off the synergy of this burgeoning dining corridor. Solid new management is skewing to a younger demographic with a menu of American standards, pastas and vegetarian fare. $$ p f h
YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p ✿
ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p ✿ BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f ✿ BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f ✿ BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920’s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. After a long run as a fine dining establishment, owner Anthony Dike has recently reinvented his restaurant as a bistro, sparked by the arrival of new chef Bill Lynch. $$$$ p f e ✿ BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, featuring the works of French-trained chef Michael Crouch. No, it’s a great bar, with what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. Actually, this Crescent Hill favorite is both, and the bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. Don’t miss the duck confit strudel appetizer. $$$ p f ✿ BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ h e BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 5150174. Anoosh Shariat has returned to reinvent Browning’s. Lots of scheduled entertainment, and upscale, inventive “tavern fare”. Also returning is brewmaster Brian Reymiller, back crafting a lovely range of beers and ales. $$ p f ✿ CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is comfortable with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. A second location in the Douglass Loop, is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ p ✿ DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note 60 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Street Live, 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e h ✿ JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p h ✿ JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ p e h ✿ L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with over 80 wines available by the glass. Comfortable atmosphere and excellent bistro fare with a creative twist from Chef Rick Adams add to the draw. $$ p f h ✿ RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban. Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices and late night hours add to the draw. $$ f e h ✿ RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany, IN, 945-9463. The newest area winery, open since late spring. Several of owner Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2009 Indy International Wine Competition, and since summer has been offering a well-crafted appetizer style menu to pair with the wines. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ e ✿
ADRIANN’S AROUND THE TABLE CUISINE 14041 Shelbyville Rd, 244-9695. Located out beyond the Snyder in the far East End, Adriann’s offers family style diner fare ranging from sandwiches and wraps to fried chicken $ ✿ ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ ✿ AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ h ✿ BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the U.S., and competitive with the best in Europe. Its comfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ p f ✿
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BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582-3220. Host Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican accent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is the specialty, at this sleek and sophisticated spot across Main from Slugger Field. A coffee house by day, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $ f h ✿ BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $fh✿ BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1474. This tasteful little spot that offers teas and lighter lunch fare in an attractive old-house setting on Bardstown Road has opened a second ladies’ lunch spot inside Dolfinger’s in St Matthews. $ f ✿ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ ✿ CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $$ f ✿ CHRISANTA’S CAFÉ 1812 Brownsboro Rd., 6182250. Don’t blink when you pass this small Clifton storefront down at the lower end of Brownsboro in Clifton, or you might miss your chance for a charming lunch. Mediterranean bistro fare includes a variety of panini, kabobs and comfortable Persian home cooking. $ CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Preston St., 8525739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f ✿
Wiltshire On Market Experience the creative cuisine of Chef Coby Ming in an intimate restaurant environment. Small plates menu changes weekly.
Evenings Thursday thru Saturday at 636 East Market Street Unique accommodations for private events. Reservations encouraged | 502.589.5224 | wiltshirepantry.com
CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $ ✿ CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ f ✿ CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg, IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ f ✿ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a restaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike — or the whole darn bike! $ f ✿ DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ✿ DOWNTOWN DINER & COFFEEHOUSE 506 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 725-8680. $ DUELING GROUNDS CAFÉ 604 E. Spring St., New Albany, IN, 944-3617. This coffee bar “plus,” located in Destination’s Booksellers in downtown New Albany, serves up espresso-based drinks, teas
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and smoothies, as well as paninis and soups. House-baked breads by the loaf and desserts are also part of the mix, as are vegetarian and vegan options on most menu items. Most items on the menu are under $4. $ e h ✿ ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 723 S. Fourth St., 587-9390, 455 S. Fourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ ✿ FUN FOOD CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-1003. $ ✿ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $ f p KAYROUZ CAFÉ 127 Wiltshire Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ f ✿ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ f ✿ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigrant family from Eastern Europe, but the food is all-American at Mr. Z’s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $ ✿
On the River: (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)
601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)
Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)
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YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0220. $ f h ✿ ZEPPELIN CAFÉ 1036 E. Burnett St., 365-3551. $$ h ✿
AHOY FISH HUT 2902 Bardstown Rd., 451-5508. An upper Highlands outlet that for almost a year has been delighting the neighborhood with fish tacos, fried and broiled cod, and homemade buttermilk pie. All dishes cooked to order — nothing hangs around under heat lamps. $ f ✿ BLUE LAGOON 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583. The Sharom family, who operate Zaytun Mediterranean Grill and Sharom’s on the Outer Loop, has a new seafood place, on the site of the old Diamante’s. Hopes are high for an aquatic take on their falafel and hummus staples. $$ f h ✿
QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ f ✿
THE CAPE CODDER 2604 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-1692. $
STOP LITE CAFÉ 1348 River Rd., 584-3746. $
CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 3922 Westport Rd., 894-8947. In an East End neighborhood rich with seafood eateries, Carolina offers a tasty option within walking distance of downtown St. Matthews. This spartan little joint features shellfish and cod, much of it healthfully steamed, not fried, in an affordable family setting. $ f
SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 8992008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ f
THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. $f✿
3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544
WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ f
BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p ✿
THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. Now well-settled in its new location just off East Broadway, The Café serves an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. And the new space retains the old place’s yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere. $ f
THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS:
WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866. The owners of Napa River Grill have hit a home run with these popular, highquality spots, the first two in a growing mini-chain. Wild Eggs, serving breakfast, brunch and lunch, features traditional favorites and specialty omelets, with upscale touches at moderate prices. $ p ✿
PATTICAKES CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 238-7387. Located in the Mellwood Arts Center, Patticakes serves homemade soups and sandwiches — and cake, of course. Owner Patti Fadel offers more than 50 varieties of pound cake! $ f ✿
SWEET ‘N’ SAVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bardstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch fare with a vegetarian accent makes Sweet ‘n’ Savory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ ✿
Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.
WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Breckenridge Ln., 4545955. For many years a Fern Creek landmark before a short move west, Whitney’s remains a comfortable spot for a casual, diner-style breakfast, lunch or dinner. We recommend the “Grandpa style roast beef.” $ ✿
THE LUNCH PAIL 502 E. Warnock St., 634-7116. Offering yet another quick and comforting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features warming soups and filling sandwiches. Lunch is offered year-round, with a dinner menu added from April through September. $ f ✿ THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 5852233. With a menu featuring many vegetarian and vegan options, this pleasant neighborhood eatery attracts loyal crowds with excellent fare and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e ✿ TIFFANY CELLAR CAFÉ 11601 Main St., 2454411. $ f ✿
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CATFISH HAVEN LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ f CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ f ✿ HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to
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miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locally-famed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customerfriendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ p f KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ p f e MACCA’S FLORIDA SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR 1315 Herr Ln., 618-2770. Upscale casual seafood and fish, this popular spot in Westport Village is upscale in menu and design but affordable for families. $$ p f e h MARKET STREET FISH HOUSE 133 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 590-3377. Owner Dave Himmel had a vision — creating a place where you can get a typical Catholic church fish fry every day. The outgoing Himmel achieves this with fresh fish cut onsite, fried up with care and passion. Located in the booming downtown New Albany dining corridor. $ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f
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size steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p
] BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville, IN., 288-2411. This independentminded steakhouse is one of the metro area’s best values for expertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual sizes and configurations, but someone in the kitchen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling. The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ p JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. (see listing under Fine Dining) JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The downtown setting doesn’t hurt either, on Waterfront Plaza at Main and Fourth, next to the Galt House. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN, 288-9789. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Over-
MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ p f ✿ PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 2674633. $$ f e RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f
MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 2312399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Be sure to bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p f PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117, 816 S. KY 53, La Grange, KY, 2221226. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ ✿ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers
‘‘Wild Eggs ... I Think I Love You.’’
SCUDDLE’S SEAFOOD 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 903-0100. Bright Caribbean colors signal a fresh approach to seafood at this new Southern Indiana restaurant where one can get any entrée grilled, blackened or fried. Salads and soups are joined by a nice selection of sandwiches, including an excellent offering of fish tacos. $$ p f SHAROM’S 5637 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as frog legs, shrimp and alligator. $$ p SON OF A SAILOR SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 617 W. Jefferson St., LaGrange, KY, 265-2202. Son Of A Sailor offers seafood Calabash-style (“bound” breading with seasoned flour and cornmeal, popular in the Carolinas). Munch the free, slightly sweet hush puppies while you wait. $$ f
3 9 85 Dut chmans L ane ( 502) 893- 8005
STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’s, where the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perfectly prepared. Known for their fish sandwich, daily specials take advantage of fresh product. $ ✿
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family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $$ STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ p h TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy. 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (15 locations) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex)
A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 2809160, Jeffersonville, IN, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ APPLEBEE’S (8 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p h ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas
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Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ p h ✿ B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd., 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ p h BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln., (Crown Plaza Hotel) 367-2251. $$$ p h ✿ BLUEGRASS GRILL & BAR 1041 Zorn Ave., 8975101. Formerly Anytimes, this Ramada Inn dining room now features Kentucky products from catfish to pork barbecue with traditional Henry Bain sauce. $$ p f e h BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. Buckhead’s combination of mountain lodge atmosphere and American-style fare make these popular destinations. The large menu features down-home staples like meat loaf, pot pies, steak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’s skyline from the riverfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f h ✿
CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e ✿ CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p h CARLY RAE’S 103 W. Oak St., 365-1003. The rumors of Carly Rae’s demise have been greatly exaggerated. This attractive Old Louisville spot with its beautiful patio has endured a spate of miscommunication and bad luck, leading some to think it had closed. Au contraire, Carly Rae’s continues to offer a diverse and appealing menu with a Cajun emphasis, the better to be enjoyed on their vast patio, reminiscent of those found in the French Quarter. $$ p f h ✿ CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kidfriendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e ✿
BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. You’ll find only burgers here, and fries, soft drinks and beer. But Anoosh Shariat, of Brownings, is the owner, so you will find top-quality ground beef along with daily fresh cut fries. $ h
CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2809660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p h ✿
CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p ✿
CHICK INN 6325 Upper River Rd., 228-3646. Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The fried chicken remains estimable, and a local crowd calls it home base. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ p ✿ CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ ✿ CHRISTY’S BAR & BISTRO 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. (InnPlace Hotel), 491-4830. $ p CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ f CUTTER’S WHARF 1902 Victory Ct., Prospect, 2283100. This floating restaurant near Harmony Landing in Oldham County replaces Harvey’s On The River. In its current incarnation, diners will find fish, steaks, pastas and home-made pizzas, along with the requisite river-rat bar foods.(Closes for winter — reopens in March.) $$ p f h D&C DIAMOND CAFÉ 2017 Brownsboro Rd., 8950070. $$ ✿ EVA MAE’S CREEKSIDE 6313 River Rd., 614-6338. $$ p f
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FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg, IN, 246-5456. Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken. They also make excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p ✿ FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany, IN, 944-9958, 4320 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-7370, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshlygrilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’ roll sensibility. $ h GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ ✿ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the downhome eats. $ HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ f ✿ HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 9681606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2189485, 941 East Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ p f e h INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 285-1772. This is currently the familiar IHOP franchise’s sole property in the Louisville area. $ h ✿ JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e h KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $ p f KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ p e h LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447. A serious restaurant hides behind the funky décor and madcap events (like the annual New Year’s Eve pajama party and the Ugly Lamp contest). The Bourbon Ball French toast beat Bobby Flay on a Throwdown. And everyone loves the fried green tomato BLT. The World of Swirl store in the front has been described as “Cracker Barrel on acid.” $$ p ✿ MAGGIE’S GRILLE 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. Just off Jeffersontown’s old Town Square, this neighborhood gathering place offers well crafted casual
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fare in a comfortable setting with a fine fireplace to add atmosphere. $$ p f h ✿ MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ ✿ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Third St., 636-2511. A fine, family Louisville tradition, this familiar Tudor structure near the U of L campus is the state’s largest full-service restaurant and the city’s largest caterer. Scaling back in response to economic conditions, Masterson’s now is open only for Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA’S 2901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4939662, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-5229. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 properties with a steady formula of friendly service and casual-dining fare that ranges from specialty burgers, soups and salads to more weighty entrées. $$ p f ✿ MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its reputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ ✿ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service. The long-awaited rooftop patio is open and packing them in on warm evenings. $ p f e h ✿ MULEY’S CORNER 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. $p✿ MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. $$ p f h O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steakand-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p h OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. The casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$$ p h ✿ PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Street Live 569-7782. Owned by Cincinnati’s The Tavern Restaurant Group, The Pub features “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f h RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p ✿ RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. The Robin, a Seattle-based chain well regarded for “gourmet burgers” and trimmings, has now landed in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ p f h ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330. This Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first two Louisville properties are gaining popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ p f h
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RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p h ✿
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Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ h ✿ THE VILLA BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The Villa Buffet offers an impressive choice of international dishes, with some 150 selections. A seafood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$ ✿
THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e h ✿
WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy. 524, Westport, KY., 222-4626. It may be in the country, and you may feel far from the big city, until the food comes. Along with the requisite meat loaf and pork chops, you’ll find such ambitious fare as chicken buccatini and blackened scallops. $$ e ✿
SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757. Opened by a man named Sam some 17 years ago, this popular Southern Indiana institution feeds an army of happy diners. You’ll find seafood, steaks, pastas, salads and desserts. The menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p h ✿
THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f h
SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SIMPLY SPLENDID SALADS 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3373. $$ ✿ SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, Plainview Village Center, 429-5773, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020, 426 W. Market St., 561-9999 721-0093, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ h ✿ STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ h ✿
BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ ✿ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ p f e
TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f h ✿
THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$
TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099. An historic theater building lends a funky atmosphere to Toast, a local breakfast and lunch favorite. Chef George Morris’ simple yet exciting menu adds a tongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner fare. A second location at 143 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 941-8582, recently opened. $ p f ✿
CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ h
TOMMY LANCASTER’S RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2389. Value and variety are the strong points of this community tradition and the fare goes from burgers to steak. Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $$ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café fare in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a 66 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ ✿ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Now under new management by the Kreso family, Cottage Inn sports a bright new look, and it continues happily doling out the kind of excellent downhome food it has served for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 12001 Shelbyville Rd., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD FAMILY RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $
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FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ ✿ GENNY’S DINER 2223 Frankfort Ave., 893-0923. What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better still, you can get a darn good meal at Genny’s, provided that you set your expectations for hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville, IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026. Everything at Granny’s Apron is homemade by owner Jan Bradley, and it tastes that way: Dinner here will remind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ ✿ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 964-5749, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ h ✿ JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy., 937-6332. Country cooking is Jessie’s specialty, with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS FAST FOOD 2101 W. Broadway, 772-7138. This tiny, colorful West End eatery, open for takeout only, offers a vast selection of filling, affordable urban fare that ranges from hot-and-spicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LOUISVILLE GRILLE 612 S. Fifth St., 217-0000. Chef Michael Washington, veteran of Big Hopp’s, smokes pork and beef, fries and grills chicken, and catfish, and builds cold and hot sandwiches, salads and soups for diners at the corner of Fifth and Chestnut. $ MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085. This little Butchertown storefront serves deli lunches and Saturday breakfasts in a charming, homey atmosphere. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room. $$ MR. LOU’S COUNTRY COTTAGE RESTAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 933-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s country cooking style. Roast chicken is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ ✿ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $pfh✿ OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410, 2835 Holman Ln., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8133, 5612 Bardstown Rd., 239-2656. The original Our
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Best, a fine family restaurant in Henry County, is rapidly growing into a chain, with three properties in the big city now. $$
unusually interesting bar food with a local accent before the nationally-known comedy acts start. $$$
QUEENIE’S SOUL CUISINE 2956 Richland Ave., 451-4698. Queenie has been cooking for her 13 siblings since she was a teenager. Finally she is getting paid to do it. She and her son serve breakfast, lunch and dinner: chicken and waffles, meatloaf, a soul burrito, chicken (fried, smothered or baked) and daily specials. $$
INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. “Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ p h ✿
SWEET-TEE’S 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 966-0075. A modest little soul-food emporium, brimming with the aromas of Southern ambrosia: collard greens cooked with fatback, sweet potato pie, crusty ribs and slow-cooked pig’s feet. The chicken is fried while you wait, the way the customers like it. $ WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $
ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ ✿ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ ✿
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JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ p ✿ STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riverside Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1565. The Ohio River cruise is the best thing about this Love Boat-style yacht that makes nightly all-you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f ✿ STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, roast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f ✿
ALEXANDER’S PIZZERIA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$
ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $ ✿ ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ✿ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ h ✿ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9239805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ ✿ BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $ p ✿ BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889. The Tony Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded into a sit-down pizza and taphouse experience. The menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers can be quaffed at the frosted metal bar top (think your mother’s old ice trays). Dine inside, or watch the Bardstown Road people parade from the extensive patio seating. $$ f e h ✿ BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5050. $$ BRUNO’S PIZZERIA & PUB 1919 S. Preston, 6341003. $$ p f h ✿ CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional
HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ ✿ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ ✿ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4231733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ ✿
DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 5629400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that features a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ p e h IMPROV COMEDY CLUB & WET WILLIE’S 441 S. Fourth St., 581-1332. Get seated early and dine on
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Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f ✿ CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ ✿ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 944-4942, 3093 Breckinridge Ln., 452-6700. Serious bargain-hunters will find Cici’s culinary offer hard to beat. This Dallas-based chain serves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ ✿ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $ f e h ✿ DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 635-7994. $ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 3637551. $ h ✿ FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040, 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-0840, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-8559. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd; the Crescent Hill eatery reflects its urban setting. $ ✿ FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000. Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f ✿ HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555, La Grange Square Shopping Center, 2224444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ h ✿ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ ✿ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss Ave., 637-5406. Old-timers are delighted to see Jockamo’s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it departed Bardstown Road. Some of the original owners (except the late Dave Wilder) have recreated the style, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e ✿ JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ p f LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA 816 Kenwood Dr., 3665599, 9017 Galene Dr., 267-8600, 5622 Preston Hwy. 966-5800, 6714 Outer Loop, 966-3111, 12418 LaGrange Rd., 241-5445. This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ h ✿ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f h ✿ LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ ✿ MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ ✿ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. Third St., 363-2211, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2247 S. Preston St., 68 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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635-6708, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $ OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ p f h ✿ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd. Impellizzeri’s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has returned to the Highlands! Benny Impellizzeri’s latest venture is already attracting happy crowds to the quarters vacated by Alameda. $$$ p f h ✿ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZZA 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mudd Ln., 962-7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7000, 161 Outer Loop, 361-3444, 4607 Outer Loop, 964-7272, 12535 Shelbyville Rd., 2539191, 6756 Bardstown Rd., 239-8282, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-7272, 2221 State St., New Albany IN, 945-7272. $$ ✿ PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $$ ✿ PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644. This new place in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Avenue. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ ✿ PIZZA BY THE GUY 814 Lyndon Ln., 426-4044. This locally owned franchise, now in larger quarters, wins its fans’ praise for extra spicy sauce and handtossed dough. $ h ✿ PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2828286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ h ✿ PIZZ-A-ROMA 1511 Bardstown Rd., 290-6600. This family business has 40+ years of experience in Owensboro and Bowling Green, and has now opened a Louisville outlet for their family recipe pizzas, highly rated by Pizza Today magazine. $$ h ✿ PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ ✿ SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 631 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $ h SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 469 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $ f ✿ RED = ADVERTISER
SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205, 13206 W. Hwy. 42, 228-9990. $$ h ✿ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832. This tiny storefront in the city’s nightclub zone offers a tasty option for the wide-eyed-late-at-night crowd seeking good cheap eats; it’s open until 5 am nightly from Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philadelphia specialties: Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. Now serving at a second spot in the suburbs. $ f h ✿ TONI’S MORE THAN PIZZA 3213 Preston Hwy., 634-5400. Friendly service and sizzling pies make this neighborhood pizzeria a favorite under any name. $$ ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ h ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & VINO 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 394-0000. Flagship of the Boombozz flotilla, this East End establishment takes the local mini-chain’s winning pizza concept to a higher level. Featuring the award-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis available at its other mostly takeout shops, but presents it for dining in a striking “urban loft” setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale accent. $$ p h ✿ TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 108 Vieux Carre Dr., 429-0606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old strip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza style, it’s a treat not to be missed. $$$$ ✿ TUBBY’S PIZZA 103 Quartermaster Crt., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8870. Jeffersonville’s venerable quadrangle — it dates back to the Civil War — is the perfect setting for settling back over a pitcher of beer, a Hoosier-style pizza (sliced in squares) and catching a game on one of the wall-mounted flatscreen TVs. $$ h VARSITY PIZZA & PINTS 6825 Central Ave., Crestwood, KY, 243-1101. $$ p f h ✿ WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333, 225 State St., New Albany, IN, 945-9425. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p h ✿ WINDY CITY PIZZERIA 2622 S. Fourth St., 636-3708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desires. $$ WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ h ✿ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ p ✿ ZAHN’S PIZZERIA & PUB 201 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-3663. A source of thin-crust, New York style pizzas, as well as sandwiches and calzones, in downtown Jeffersonville. Beer selection includes several local Louisville and Indiana craft brews. $$ p f h ✿
AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carrots, bean sprouts, seeds and roots, think again. No animals were harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ✿
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ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ ✿
DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 583-3828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f
BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945, 11201 Oscar Rd., 339-2908. The open flame at these counter-service diners provide the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ ✿
DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 980 Breckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ ✿
BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 5878260. $ h BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960. Sublime subs — fast and fresh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ ✿ BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ h BUTCHER’S BEST MEATS & DELI 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ f CAFÉ PALACIO 4010 Dupont Circle, 708-1818. Serving lunch to workers in the Dupont area five days a week. $ ✿ CALISTOGA ARTISAN SANDWICHES 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 895-3779, 401 E. Chestnut St., 561-9092. “Papa” John Schnatter, founder of the worldwide pizza chain that bears his name, is taking another shot at the fast-food world with the more upscale Calistoga Artisan Sandwiches that some have likened to Panera Bread. $ f ✿ CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ ✿ THE CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270. $ f e ✿ CONEZ & CONEYZ 2716 1/2 Frankfort Ave., 8977222. As the name suggests, this new place in the former Café Glacé space is about ice cream (“conez”) and hot dogs (“coneyz,” a bit more of a stretch). The selection includes hot dogs and sausages, soft-serve cones and other desserts. A few small tables, but mostly takeaway service. $ f h DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ ✿ DERBY CITY DOGS 960 Baxter Ave., 561-2880. This walk-up hot-dog storefront serves Nathan’s brand all beef hot dogs with gourmet style toppings, bratwurst, corn dogs, veggie dogs, side dishes, ice cream and smoothies — they’ll even give your real doggie a treat if she’s along with you. Catering to the nightclub crowd, it’s open until 5 a.m. on the weekends. $ f h ✿ DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DOWN TO LUNCH CAFÉ 239 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ ✿
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EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ f ✿ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ ✿
Award winning pizza is just around the corner
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Craft Beers
on tap
FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 6010 Crestwood Station, 243-9005. This Oldham County shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ p h ✿ GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ ✿ HEAVENLY HAM 3602 Northgate Crt, New Albany, IN, 941-9426. This franchise location of the “spiral-sliced, honey-spice glazed” ham-to-go chain offers sandwiches of the trademark product. There’s also smoked turkey, as well as box lunches, ham and smoked turkey by the pound or in bulk. $ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292. $ JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f ✿
Bardstown Road @ Eastern Parkway
Famous Gourmet Pizza served fast, casual & unusual (502) 458-8889
JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ ✿ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 967 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393,415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany, In. 725-8580. This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ f h ✿ JOE DAVOLA’S 901 Barret Ave., 690-5377. Near the government center in the lower Highlands, this sandwich shop will feature healthful choices for lunch. $ ✿ KC’S CHICAGO HOT DOG STAND 1770 Bardstown Rd., 454-9727. Walk up to this small stand and load up a Vienna All Beef hotdog “Chicago style” with mustard, ketchup, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, salt, pepper and neon-green relish. There’s also corn dogs, and Hawaiian shave ice. No indoor dining, but some seats out front. $ f ✿
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Visit one of our other award winning locations 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 394.0000 12613 Taylorsville Road 261.0222 3334 Frankfort Avenue 896.9090 www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 69
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LIL’ LOAFERS BAKERY 8522 Preston Hwy., 9693990. For years, hairdresser Sheryl Lukenbill used to bake banana breads and other treats as gifts for her customers. Her goodies were so popular that now Sheryl and her husband Paul have gone fulltime with Lil’ Loafers Bakery. $ ✿ LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 949-7567. Every city needs a postage-stamp-sized spot that knows how to fry potatoes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gravy, fried eggs, and burgers, in a joint that seems like a throwback to the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ ✿ LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 1034 Bardstown Rd., 4512965. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ ✿ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit prepares its share of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ f ✿ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 239-9997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ ✿ MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 587-2353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this new outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f ✿ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Orders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dropping in to someone’s home for lunch. Soups salads and freshly made sandwiches are uniformly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or less. $ ✿ PANERA BREAD CO. 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8999992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. 70 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 6359164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2889400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f ✿ PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ ✿ PENN STATION (16 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ ✿ QUIZNO’S SUBS (16 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ ✿ RED’S 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” has thoroughly refurbished the former Picnicaters into a spotless “hot-daug stand” offering gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Take away, or sit at one of the nine stools lining the little building and watch the passing parade. $ f ✿ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f ✿ SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ ✿ SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and more. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ ✿ THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ ✿ STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ ✿ SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ ✿ TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 581-9200. $ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. At the back of the Felice Plaza east of downtown, the Bodega combines a small specialty-food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact roof. They’ll build your lunch to dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f ✿ THEATER SQUARE MARKET PLACE 651 S. Fourth St., 625-300. The expansive space that was once The Kentucky movie theater has been renovated into a gourmet grocery, an upscale take-out deli, and a classy in-the-round bar, opening onto a shady patio. Look for special wine tastings, wine
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(and beer!) and cheese pairings, and other events. $$ p f h ✿ THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ ✿ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ ✿
BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ BRUCE’S SMOKEHOUSE & BALLPARK GRILL 10317 Watterson Trail, 400-4440. $$ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 6728 Johnsontown Rd., 9335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Boy’s reasonably priced Western Kentucky-style barbecue is well worth a special trip. Like many mom ’n’ pop eateries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ DEM BONES BBQ 1703 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2277. Ribs, brisket and pulled pork dominate the menu at this diminutive family-operated smokehouse. The sauce has a sweet tang, the baked beans a rich, long-simmered flavor, and though tables are few, everything is available to go — in any quantity desired. $ FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICKORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W. Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turkey legs, ham, half-chickens, pork chops and shredded beef and pork — all for dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bardstown Rd., 239-7800, 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 9957585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that FireFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers. Service can be erratic, but the ’cue is worth waiting for. (Play putt-putt golf or cornhole out back while you’re waiting) The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. $ p f h JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue
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savor, Roma’s advertises its ribs as the best dressed in town. Burgers, chicken and steaks are available as well, but we recommend the racks and baby backs of pork and beef. $$$ p
meats skillfully smoked on the premises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f KENTUCKY BBQ CO. 1800 Frankfort Ave., 895-3419. Brothers Dave and Greg Kastan offer first-rate ribs and smoked meats in this older Clifton venue. Theme dinners once a month explore the wider world of the barbecue tradition. $$ p f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 285-1998. Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ f PIG CITY BBQ 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-3535. Down-home and honest, the name of this popular Middletown barbecue eatery pretty much says it all. Smoke ’em if you’ve got ’em — and they do — with all cherry wood. $$ f PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smoky Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ f h RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 300 W. Chestnut St., 922-3156. Barbecue meister Kalvin Brown, who presided over the smokers at the West End RiteWay for many years, now brings his skills to a downtown establishment with similar fare but no business connection to the original. $ p e h RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e h SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. $ f e SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 4293907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain, now open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f h SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” does double-duty at this TexMex storefront just east of Old Louisville in the the Smoketown neighborhood. Ribs are juicy and smoky; the pinto beans and the Blue Bunny ice cream from Texas are not to be missed. $ f ✿ SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3278500. From the tomato tang to a smoky Blue Ridge
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VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. U.S. 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name remains on this neighborhood joint out the road in Oldham County. $
BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2542322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-5496, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette, 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN, 285-9464. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ h BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e BLUE MULE SPORTS CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’Connor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar. Riley died before their dream came true. But now O’Connor proudly presides over this 90-seat casual Jeffersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule.” $ p e BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830. Namesake owner Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ p h BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f h BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 239-0029. $ p f h CHAMPIONS SPORTS RESTAURANT 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f h CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL 2745 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f ✿ CONNOR’S PLACE 132 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 725-7055. Hoosier Restaurateur Dave Himmel has moved Connor’s Place to a new location, retaining the casually upscale mood and food that he made a trademark in the original venue. $ p f e h DANNY BOY’S 1101 S. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-3566. $ p e h DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860. It’s not quite as historic as Gideon Shryock’s Jefferson County Courthouse around the corner, but this popular bar and short-order spot seems as if it has been a hangout for lawyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p ✿
✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS
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DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f h ✿
JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $
SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. $$ p f h
FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ p f h
THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ ✿
TENGO SED CANTINA 432B Fourth St., 540-1461. “Tengo Sed” is Spanish for “I’m thirsty,” and if that’s your problem, you can easily solve it in this popular Latino-accented watering hole in Fourth Street Live. A selection of Cancun-style starters, tacos and sandwiches is available. $$ p f h
FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a Wichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiard tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f h ✿ GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e h ✿ GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 635-6475. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airport Hilton. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HARLEY’S HOUSE OF BREWS 122 W. Main St., 384-0151. Long-standing blues bar Zena’s closed, but fans were relieved when the funky downtown space was reopened by the owners of Amici in Old Louisville, who continue to offer great music and even better bar food. $ p e h HARLOW’S BAR AND GRILL 2787 S. Floyd St., 6371788. If you can’t get into Papa John’s Stadium nearby, hunker down with satisfying bar food and drinks, either at the sprawling bar or on the patio in good weather and keep on eye on the games on the tube. $ p f e h HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p h HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f h ✿ INDIGO JOE’S SPORTS PUB & RESTAURANT 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1633. Louisville’s first outpost of a growing Los Angeles-based chain, Indigo Joe’s is a family-friendly American-style sports bar. It features large portions and 44 flat-screen televisions, with speakers on the tables so diners can tune in the sporting event of their choice. $$ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $ p JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e h ✿ 72 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
MICHAEL MURPHY’S RESTAURANT 701 S. First St., 587-0013. This full service restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p MY BAR 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 948-6501. $
pfeh NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e h NV TAVERN 1202 Bardstown Rd., 452-6101. $ p f e h PUCKER’S BAR & GRILL 4041 Preston Hwy., 3647250. This South-end spot offers a good-size dining room and a particularly attractive alfresco patio. The bill of fare is longer and more varied than your typical bar menu.. $ p f e h RENBARGER’S BREW HAUS 942 Baxter Ave., 5832969. $ p f h ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoalgrilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ p f h SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ p e h ✿
THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-0659. Longtime owners John Dant and Mike Ewing are known for running one of the city’s friendliest pubs at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ p f h TURKEY JOE’S 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3279464. Turkey Joe’s advertises “Wings, Burgers and More,” but hot wings are the specialty, and you can take your pick of chicken, turkey or boneless chicken prepared by a Sullivan-trained chef in a comfortable sports-bar setting. $ p h VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 9444338. $ ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70’s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the steam table will dish up comfort food by day and live music and pub grub will satisfy oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ p f h ✿ ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZoo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and welcoming neighborhood bar feeling. $ p f e h ✿
SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Sergio built up a loyal following in his Shelbyville location, so that may account for the stealth presence he has established in his new Butchertown digs: minimal signage, a quirky Web site, an aura of haughty mystery. If you can locate the place, it almost seems as if you need a secret word to enter. What you really need is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ h ✿
BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany, IN, 725-9585. With long-time Le Relais sous-chef Joshua Lehman at the helm, the food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has sharpened into Belgian-style bistro cuisine. Mussels and frites will always be available, and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ p f ✿
SLAMMER’S SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2800 Crums Ln., 618-3588. A kid-friendly sports bar, with 20 large flat screens and one huge (110-inch) one. Expect a reasonably-priced pub menu (ribs, burgers, sandwiches) and plenty of opportunity to drink beer while catching any game you want. $ p f e h
BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2224. A must-stop destination for beer lovers on the national artisanal-brew trail, but it’s more than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both liquid and solid fare, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. $ p f e ✿
THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramont Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ p f h ✿ THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St., 568-1400. Replacing Lucky Strike in 4th Street Live, this Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ p h ✿
BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St., (see listing under Bistros) CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ f e h ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (see review under Pizza)
STEINERT’S 401 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 9458827. The name has been on the Southern Indiana restaurant/bar scene since 1880. The newest incarnation, amid the booming New Albany Main Street area, features family-style dining until 9 p.m., in a room adjoining the bar, with live music, open-mic nights and other late-evening entertainment. $ p e h
CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $
STUDIO’S GRILLE & PUB 207 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 590-3171. Add Studio’s to the downtown New Albany Renaissance. Trish Meyer’s fine dining room and bar offers an historic environment, a stylish outdoor courtyard and a gallery of local art. $$ p f h
QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and
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eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ ✿
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DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buffet in a chic East End shopping strip, offers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ ✿
#1 ASIAN BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-6033. Not just another in the herd of all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this 350 seat eatery is the first between-the-coasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ ✿
DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868. The continuing proliferation of look alike, taste alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happy to report that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ ✿
8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4933884. $ ✿
EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ ✿
A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ✿
EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 4591259. $ p h ✿
ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 285-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ✿
EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ p ✿
ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ ✿ AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ p f ✿ BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113. An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ ✿ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ ✿ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the run-of-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ ✿ CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ ✿ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ ✿ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ ✿ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ ✿ CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-5580. $ ✿ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ ✿ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ ✿ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ ✿ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ ✿ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-0099, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ ✿
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EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p ✿ FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ ✿ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ ✿ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 3682868. $ ✿ GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3681833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ ✿ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ ✿ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ ✿ GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fastfood Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ ✿ HAPPY DRAGON 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. Catering to office and residential customers, this Chinese restaurant has served the West Broadway community for many years. $ f ✿ HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ ✿ HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ ✿ HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ ✿ JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 8930822. Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ ✿ JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p ✿ JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventurous side with a selection of more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f ✿ JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a
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larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ ✿ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ ✿ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188. Genial host Roland Wong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining rooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine Chinese-American dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ ✿ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ ✿ NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ✿ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ✿ ORIENTAL EXPRESS 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 2449838. $ ✿ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ p ✿ ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ ✿ PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ ✿ POTSTICKERS 938 Baxter Ave., 618-4500. Edward Lee, owner of the upscale and innovative 610 Magnolia, expands culinary talents into his notion of fast food in this storefront in the Lower Highlands. Look for the eponymous Asian pan-fried dumplings and other Asian-inspired quick eats. $ f h ✿ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ✿ RED PEPPER CHINESE CUISINE 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8868. With a skilled Sichuanese chef who’s owned a restaurant in Chicago’s Chinatown and cooked at Chinese embassies around the world, Red Pepper starts out in the top tier of local Chinese restaurants. Chinese-American standards are well done, but we recommend the authentic Chinese menu, which is available in English $ ✿ RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ✿ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0428, 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228. $ ✿ SESAME CHINESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not just another shopping-center Chinese restaurant, this East End eatery has provided some of the best fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p ✿ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $✿ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ ✿ www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 73
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TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ f ✿ WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ ✿ WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ ✿ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ f ✿ YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ ✿ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ ✿ YUMMY CHINESE RESTAURANT 968-7450, 8625 Preston Hwy. $ ✿
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houses this neighborhood sushi spot where awardwinning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ ✿ BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ ✿ BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $ ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual) CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy between shopping. $ ✿ DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444. Toki Masubuchi, co-owner of Maido Essential Japanese in Clifton, has opened a new venue at the corner of Bardstown Road and Elmwood. The style of the menu will be international standards built on traditional Japanese ingredients, so look for unusual dishes such as pizza topped with sashimi, or tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ p f ✿ FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$ p ✿
SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s sole Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $
ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in a new St. Matthews building
FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ✿ HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot
a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ p ✿ HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained sushi chef Norihiko Nakanashi has earned quite a local following at Shogun. Now he brings his sushi knives to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ✿ ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p ✿ KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-9238. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p ✿ KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant is drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p ✿ MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar, cool and stylish Maido is Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”-style restaurant in the style of Kansai, the region surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f ✿ MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. $$ p f h ✿ OASIS JAPANESE RESTAURANT 3311 Preston Hwy., 375-8766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya sushi restaurant have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ h ✿ OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829. This small, attractive Highlands spot, operated by sushi chefs who’ve put in time at the popular Sapporo, has been attracting raves from neighborhood sushi lovers. $$ ✿ OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite has opened a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ ✿ SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This welcome addition to the Fern Creek dining scene offers the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience of hibachi grill tables and sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ p h ✿ SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ ✿ SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. Ensconced in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo steadily ranks as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. If fresh, well-made sushi is what you are hungry for, you can’t go wrong with a stop at Sapporo’s bar. $$$ p h ✿ SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who
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find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p ✿ TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ ✿
KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ ✿ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ ✿
MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ ✿ SALA THAI 526 W. Main St., 493-3944. After a move to a smaller, more casual downtown venue, Sala Thai continues its run as one of the best Thai restaurants in town. $$ p f ✿ SIMPLY THAI 318 Wallace Ave., 899-9670. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, offering a small menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f ✿ TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ ✿
BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ p ✿
THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ ✿
SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stony Brook Shopping Center, 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p ✿
THAI ORCHIDS 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Brook Shopping Center), 493-4073. This location has been known for good Thai restaurants, and the short history of Thai Orchids shows that they have picked up the mantle, providing Jeffersontownarea lovers of southeast Asian cuisine with excellent noodles and curries. $$ ✿
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THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ ✿ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ ✿ THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ ✿ TRUE THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992. A bright, attractive little place (just 4 tables) run by a former employee of Thai-Siam, one of Louisville’s longest running Thai restaurants. 30 standard Thai dishes (pad thai, curries, fried rice) priced under $10. $ ✿
ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Café ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ ✿ CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. A fire last winter gutted the former location to the walls, but resourceful owner Phat Le recently reopened in the old Lentini’s building and is once again serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and panAsian dishes to happy regulars. $ p h ✿ CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 3666959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are
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hard to beat. Don’t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ ✿
catfish po’ boy and bison and goat cheese lasagna. $$ p e h ✿
LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. Replacing the original Lemongrass in the Highlands (which continues to operate its suburban properties), La Que offers a similar blend of Vietnamese and other Asian cuisine. $ f h ✿
IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ p f ✿
LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110, 106 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ h ✿ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ ✿ VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ ✿ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes.$ f ✿
BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National Turnpike, 368-5658. This shopping-center storefront has become a popular after-work gathering spot for the city’s growing community of immigrants from Bosnia, for whom it’s a comfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ h ✿ BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919. Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, familyowned BosnaMak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ f ✿
ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong German heritage, Louisville is woefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fastfood quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 6379136. Family-owned since 1952, Flabby’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’s top destinations for inexpensive downhome eats, from authentic German dishes to fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ ✿ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$
BRENDAN’S RESTAURANT & PUB 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. This St. Matthew outpost of the O’Shea’s Irish bar empire reeks with atmosphere. The brick walls look aged, the wood weathered and photos of old St. Matthews line the walls. Irish and non-Irish love the bar and the menu has daily specials, like the leprechaun hangover burger, 76 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e h ✿ O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ p f e h ✿ PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St. The O’Shea Irish bar empire expands downtown, with the same welcoming ambience and a bit more upscale menu. $$ p f e h ✿
COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p ✿ THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ ✿ LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ f MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 394-9797. The successful formula of this Ohiobased chain features hearty and well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas served up in a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ p f h ✿ OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p h ✿
RI RA IRISH PUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic Irish experience,” this growing chain opened last year in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ p f e h ✿
THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p ✿
SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919, 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. Now with a second location out in Buechel. $ p f e h ✿
PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ ✿
ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. Joining the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ f ✿ AMICI´ 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Scott and Sharon Risinger serve satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ p f ✿ ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr., 326-5555. $ ✿ BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ h ✿ BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p ✿ CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f ✿ RED = ADVERTISER
PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ p ✿ RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-5575. The Louisville home of authentic “peasant-style” Italian cooking: meatballs, spaghetti, red sauce, garlic bread. The place is simple, warm and cozy. Brooklyn-born Parrella himself is the consummate Italian host. $$ f ✿ ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. This longtime favorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées and a view of the Louisville skyline that’s hard to beat. $ p f ✿ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p ✿ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ ✿ STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ f ✿ TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New
p = FULL BAR
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Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ ✿
Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ h ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (see listing under Upscale Casual) $$$$ p e h ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore and host Majid Ghavami have secured Volare as the city’s top spot for suave Italian dining. $$$ p f ✿
DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella. but the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ ✿ LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ p f h ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojitos quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $ p f h ✿ PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461. Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ p f ✿
BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4258892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ ✿ DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ ✿ INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian restaurant is a regular contender for the city’s top Indian spot. The expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good value. $ f ✿ KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f ✿ SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ p ✿ SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buffet. It’s the first
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A.J.’S GYRO CAFÉ 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-1715, 768 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-4976. A recent name change now reflects what this Southern Indiana eatery has always done well, serving up authentic Greek gyros and side dishes. A second location with inside seating has been added in Floyds Knobs. $ f ✿ AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ h ✿ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eateries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, dinerstyle, just about 24/7. $ p f h ✿ CAPTAIN PEPPER JACK’S AERO BISTRO 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 454-2777. This new place has an aeronautical mood to it: the name, the travel posters, the location near Bowman Field. The menu itself flies all over the world, too, from American-style fried chicken and bar food to Caribbean plantains with mango marmalade to Middle Eastern kabobs and gyros. $$ p h ✿ CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900. Joining the growing ranks of Louisville’s Persian restaurants, this small Highlands dining room is gaining good word-of-mouth for well-prepared food and cordial service. $ ✿ THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ f h ✿ GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ f ✿ OCEANSIDE RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 4543737. This Hikes Point spot, run by a friendly Moroccan couple, offers a variety of fish and seafood dishes (plus chicken wings and other munchies), with a Middle Eastern accent. A couple of Moroccan dinner items are available in the $10 range. $ OMAR’S FAST FOOD RESTAURANT 1272 S. Preston St., 637-1515. Comfort food south-east Asian style. The owner’s wife brings family recipes and culinary study in Pakistan to bear on familiar fare such as chicken korma, chicken handi and biryani, and the Omar kebab, made with ground beef, onions and tomatoes. $ ✿ PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f ✿ PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. A recent expansion more than doubled this tiny spot, offering more diners the chance to enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, with the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ ✿ ROAD TO MOROCCO 308 W. Chestnut St., 376-5855. You can browse Moroccan arts and crafts and pick up a bottle of Moroccan wine at this little shop in the renovated Henry Clay building downtown, and stay for a light lunch that features Moroccan dishes and a broader range of Middle Eastern fare. $ f e ✿
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SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. Louisville’s first quality Persian restaurant is as interesting as the spice for which it’s named and as smooth as its owner, Majid Ghavami. Roasted duck “fesenjoon” means “food of life,” and life would be much worse without this dish. But you must also try the lamb. $$$ p ✿ SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f ✿ SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor, 426-9954, 153 S. English Station Rd., 244-1341, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. Offering authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, Shiraz quickly grew out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and colorful storefront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; now it is expanding into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ ✿ ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands Middle Eastern eatery—excellent gyros kick it up a notch. $ h ✿
FURLONGS 9601 Shelbyville Rd., 327-9299. The many fans of this popular eatery, distraught about its abrupt departure from Clifton, rejoiced and returned in droves when Furlong’s reopened in the East end, in the lovely old house that was long home to Garrett’s. The menu offers well-conceived Cajun-style fare with a few surprises. We suggest you don’t miss the mushroom stuffed with shrimp and crabmeat on the appetizer list. $$$ p f h ✿
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J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Lane, 425-0096, Fourth Street Live, 5899245, 3115 S. Second St., 363-8888, 4005 Summit Plaza Dr., 326-3070, 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular minichain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320, 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2080. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. New owner Alan Salmon has brought his Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experience to the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration and renovation were extensive, turning this Anchorage roadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. And don’t miss the Saturday seafood boils. $$ p f h ✿
CACHITO MIO CUBAN CAFÉ 11316 Maple Brook Rd., 326-3544. This East End spot is primarily a Cuban-accented coffee shop, but you can also get a fine Cuban sandwich, pastries and empanadas. There’s also a small specialty grocery with Cuban and Brazilian goods. $ ✿ COCOS LOKOS CARIBBEAN CUISINE 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. You can find a taste of the Caribbean islands here: mofongo from Puerto Rico (grilled chicken over plantains), lechon adobado (Cuban roast pork), tostones, yucca, sweet potato fries and dishes with a Dominican accent. Chill out with tropical cocktails at the bar. $$ p e ✿
RED = ADVERTISER
HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting Cuban restaurant is sibling to the equally popular Mojito Tapas Restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $ p f ✿ NILE RESTAURANT 5312 S. Third St., 384-9030. $ p h
ACAPULCO AUTHENTIC MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1041 Zorn Ave. (Ramada), 895-9919. A bit of a surprise to find a solid, satisfying Mexican restaurant in a motel, but this one seems to be doing things right, with fresh piquant sauces, sizeable portions and efficient service. $ p ✿ ARANDAS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 7200 Preston Hwy., 969-2492. $ p h ✿ BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907-C S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ f ✿ BUENOS DIAS CAFÉ 1703 Charlestown NA Pike, Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2233. $ ✿ CANCUN MEXICAN GRILL 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e ✿ DON PABLOS MEXICAN KITCHEN 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Based in Atlanta, this Mexican-American chain, offers full bar service and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p ✿ EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ ✿
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EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Highway 131, Clarksville, IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p ✿ EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f ✿ EL NOPAL (10 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ p f ✿ EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249. This modest little eatery used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family from Mexico, it’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f ✿ EL REY MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 454-6520. Although it’s more Mexican-American than hard-core ethnic Mexican, El Rey earns our recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food environment, and affordable prices. $ f ✿ EL RODEO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics from salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ ✿ EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food
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and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ p ✿ EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 491-7272, 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 4893839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ✿ ERNESTO’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 893-9297, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the first of the more authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy homefried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value. $ p f e ✿ FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ p ✿ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ h ✿ LA HERRADURA 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN., 280-8650. Is it possible to enjoy truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and you speak only English? These friendly folks make it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling staff make you feel at home.$ ✿ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ ✿ LA PERLA DEL PACIFICO 2840 Goose Creek Rd., 969-4445. You may want to bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, where English is sometimes tentative. It’s worth the effort though,
Fresh
Authentic Affordable
Mon-Thurs 11AM - 10PM Friday 11AM - 11PM Saturday Noon - 11PM Sunday Noon - 9PM h = LATE NIGHT
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SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road | 459-7776 2350 Frankfort Avenue | 895-3333 520 S. Fourth Street | 315-0666
www.solaztecas.com
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for excellent authentic Mexican seafood and fish dishes that go well beyond taqueria status. $$ ✿ LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620, 113 Grant Line Ctr., 948-7967. Housed in an historic storefront, this Mexican restaurant breaks from the pack by presenting traditional Mexican dishes not found elsewhere. The Grant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria fare. $ f ✿ LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN, 284-1362. $ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p ✿ LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center every Friday through Monday evening. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ f ✿ LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ f ✿ LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p ✿ MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán has returned to his original location in the
World Famous Margaritas !!! CHIPS & SALSA ALWAYS COMPLIMENTARY
LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main Street | 561-8535
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burgeoning NuLu gallery district, and updated it into a stylish bistro. The distinctive cuisine, from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, treats pork, scallops, mussels and even lima beans memorably. $$ ✿ MEXICAN FIESTA 5414 Bardstown Rd., 762-0840, 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ ✿ MEXICANO 6911 Shepherdsville Rd., 962-8526. Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ ✿ MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 253-9828. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following in for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e ✿ MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880. $ ✿ MY PATRIA 808 Lyndon Ln., 339-9420. $ ✿ PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Curch Rd., 239-4646. $$ p ✿ QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 454-3380, 970 Breckinridge Ln., 721-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Drive, 429-5151, 100 Daventry Ln., 412-6202, 2730 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4939606, 3021 Poplar Level Rd., 637-5405, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-9654, 1321 Herr Ln., 618-3622, 11910 Standiford Plaza Dr., 736-6198. This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fastfoodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ✿ ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ ✿ RUBEN’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p ✿ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ ✿ SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876. These two Mexican-American eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ p f ✿ SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 459-7776, 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333, 520 S. Fourth St., 3150666. Saul Garcia, who’s known for the local chain of Los Aztecas eateries, has started this new chain, raising the bar with a broader menu. His many Los Aztecas fans will find familiar dishes, along with some pleasant surprises. $ p h ✿ TACO BUENO 2350 Shane Dr., 493-2008. This growing Texas-based chain, a competitor to Taco Bell, now has a location in the Louisville metro. Early reports declare it “better than the Bell.” $ f ✿ TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell was born in Southern California, The Taco Tico chain has been gone from Louisville for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ ✿ TACOS TOREADOS MEXICAN TAQUERIA 9109 Galene Dr., 468-3524. The Lyndon-based taco truck has settled down just outside Jeffersontown, serving up its authentic, budget-priced Mexican fare. $ ✿ 80 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com
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TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ ✿ THE TEQUILA FACTORY 917 Baxter Ave., 459-9191. Another link in the Los Aztecs/SolAztecas chain of restaurateur Saul Garcia, who has adapted the multi-level building recently vacated by nios on Baxter Ave.’s restaurant corridor. It’s a bar and grill, with an extensive list of tequilas, a tapas bar, and an economical lunch and dinner place, with hearty, familiar Mexican dishes. $ p f e h ✿ YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs, IN, 903-0313. Another in a growing list of area TexMex restaurants. New place calls itself a Mexican restaurant and American steakhouse. $ p h ✿ ZAPATA’S CORNER 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 690-8100. Owner Tony Mora honors Emiliano Zapata, one of the folk heroes of the Mexican Revolution, at his restaurant on the site of the former Mazzoni’s in Middletown. Authentic too is his cuisine-mole poblanos, fried whole Huachinango fish and a meaty trio of chicken, beer and chorizo making up the El Brasero. $$ p h ✿
MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 8936637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ✿ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 4122461. A contemporary spin on traditional favorites offers a range of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to margaritas in a setting that emulates Old Mexico décor. $$ p f ✿ SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ p f ✿ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (15 locations). Tumbleweed started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany and eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. Southwestern fare adds steaks and grilled fare to the familiar Tex-Mex with a formula that continues to draw diners in droves, but the ’Weed doesn’t stray far from its roots. $$ p f h ✿
BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f ✿ DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f DERBY CITY ESPRESSO 331 E. Market St., 4420523. A highlight in Louisville’s roster of serious RED = ADVERTISER
coffee shops, Derby City features quality coffee from several artisanal roasters, plus fine tea, pastries, and now craft beers. $ f e ✿ EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-6886. $ f e ✿ HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 899-5551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 894-9413. Spartan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Bros. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B U.S. Hwy. 42, 2922710, 516 W. Main St., 568-6339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Fourth Street Live, 561-2041, 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f LA VIDA JAVA COFFEE CO. 1301 Herr Ln., 4129393. La Vida Java offers espresso drinks and pastries in this welcoming spot in the Westport Village shopping center. $ f MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f ✿ PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-0611. $ e QUARTER REST CAFÉ 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center, music lovers can find music-themed breakfast dishes to fortify them as they shop for instruments or practice their craft. $ f e QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129. With its recent move to Bardstown Road, Quills has updated its image, but faithful fans find that the joe is still fine, as are the pastries, and everyone lingers, with laptops and books. $ RAY’S MONKEY HOUSE 1578 Bardstown Rd., 4594373. A very nice fit with its crunchy-granola Highlands neighborhood, this “progressive coffee shop and gathering place” is consciously child-friendly. Look for quality organic coffee roasted on the premises and vegetarian/vegan snacks. $ f e ✿ RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000. The old drive-through standby, Jackson’s Organic Coffee, is now Red Hot Roasters, with an expanded menu and new cold-brewed iced coffee drinks flavored with mocha, cinnamon and caramel. Note: Don’t look for Red Hot Roasters on Payne Street; the entrance is actually on Lexington Road. $ ✿ RIVER CITY COFFEE CAFÉ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 618-2308. Don’t let the word “coffee” in the name fool you: This Crescent Hill spot isn’t just a coffee shop. You can enjoy breakfast and lunch, including a good array of soups, salads, sandwiches and burgers. $ f ✿ SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f ✿ SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. $
p = FULL BAR
f = OUTDOOR DINING
e = LIVE MUSIC
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STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTERY 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee, another in the growing cadre of espresso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $ ✿ THIRD STREET COFFEE HOUSE 711 S. Third St., 749-0026. $ f TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $ VT’S BUBBLE CUP 1043 Bardstown Rd., 452-8899. Tea houses are a new rage. This Highlands place features a cute variation, bubble tea — a tapiocabased soft drink. Japanese teens love it. $ h ✿ ZEN TEA HOUSE 2246 Frankfort Ave., 618-0878. Another entry in the Tran family’s Frankfort Ave. restaurant row. There is tea, of course, black, green, and white and herbal infusions, spring rolls, soups, and paninis, all vegetarian. $ f e h ✿
ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ✿ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ ✿ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ ✿
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CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f ✿ CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 930 Baxter Ave., (inside Quill’s Coffee Shop) 561-2940. $ COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. $ COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bardstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the premises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of coffee. $ f THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ ✿ THE DESSERT GALLERY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 326-0700. You’ll find just about anything you could want in the way of a dessert at this East End shopping center storefront, from cakes to brownies and cookies, and it’s all hand-made from natural ingredients. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 4517151, 9219 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573, 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4422. $ ✿ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ ✿
✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS
= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY
HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6000. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ THE PIE PANTRY 9208 Dixie Hwy., 384-0743. Lunch is served at this Southwest Louisville eatery but the main focus — and the strongest reason to drive out that way — is the dozens of varieties of homemade pies. Portions are large and the selection extensive. $ f ✿ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ ✿ SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. $ ✿ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554. You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus excellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in this cozy little spot. $ ✿
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MAP INDEX
MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville
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MAP INDEX
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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN
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NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL
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SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL
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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON
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7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP
8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD
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15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE
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