Winter 2019 (Vol.66) by Food & Dining Magazine

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WINTER 2019

PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MARTY ROSEN EXECUTIVE EDITOR RON MIKULAK WEB EDITOR ROGER BAYLOR BUSINESS MANAGER JON LARMEE PHOTOGRAPHERS DAN DRY ANDY HYSLOP COLUMNISTS ROGER BAYLOR RON MIKULAK SUSAN REIGLER FEATURE WRITERS ROGER BAYLOR MICHAEL L. JONES ALEX ROMA ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD GRAPHIC DESIGN & PRODUCTION ED ROTHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES KAREN SHANE ANNETTE B. WHITE

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 502.509.EATS (3287)

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For advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS) Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER Beef Bulgogi Bowl from Ramen House (page 28). Photo by Dan Dry. 4

Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

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contents WINTER 2019 | VOLUME 66

RESTAURANT GUIDE

44 | Dining Guide 82 | Maps

Our comprehensive listing of over 1,400 area restaurants, complete with reviews.

(RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.

FEATURES

32 |

PICK THREE | Mexican Regional Cuisines

38 |

PROFILE | Al Hamra Halal Buffet

Mexico’s culinary traditions are as rich and varied as those of Europe and the U.S. We highlight three places where you’ll find a vibrant mix of tradition and innovation.

This chef-driven Middle Eastern restaurant offers a unique assortment of unknown delights, and outstanding takes on familiar dishes.

COLUMNS Starters

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes in the local restaurant scene — with openings, closings, changes and more.

Food

14 | 24 | 28 |

EASY ENTERTAINING | Cheese & Wine Night A wine and cheese event may be the essence of graceful sophistication, but it shouldn’t be intimidating or stressful. It should be easy! We show you how.

COOKING WITH RON | Soups Soups are the very definition of comfort food. This is the season, and Ron has the recipes.

STAFF PICKS | Six Must-Try Bowls It’s bowling season and we’re not just talking football! These days, plates are sooo Boomer and bowls are hot. We found six you should try.

Liquids

12 | 20 |

HIP HOPS | Saison & Farmhouse Ales These fascinating brews are nearly impossible to define, and thus an object of passionate curiosity and debate. Our expert, Roger Baylor, weighs in.

SPIRITS | Amaro Amaro means “bitter,” but these elusive herbal concoctions with Italian roots have a cult-like appeal among bar professionals and curious drinkers — both on the coasts and here.

BOURBON | Rye Not? | 22

Sure, bourbon is king, but rye is more than just an item in the mash bill. It plays a noble role in the history (and present and future) of American spirits.

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starters | comings & goings

comings & goings BY RON MIKULAK

This is the 65th installment of our quarterly “Comings & Goings” restaurant update. And over the years, it’s become a very popular, must-read feature for anyone trying to keep up with Louisville’s ever-changing dining scene. Even after all these years, Louisville-area restaurateurs continue to surprise me. And this quarter they gave me far more work than I had anticipated. For the record, this time around we are reporting 33 openings and 22 closings, more than in any previous issue. That’s 55 restaurants that have either “started service” or “cleared down” for the last time. For the year, this quarter brings us up to 130 reported openings of restaurants versus 77 closings, almost a two-to-one ratio. That marks 2019 as the16th straight year that Louisville’s restaurant growth has greatly outpaced any decline, and by a significant margin. All in all, the listings in our guide at the back of the magazine currently total 1,437. When Food & Dining published its first issue in 2003, there were 817. We are proud and excited to have been recording the growth of the metro areas’ dining scene for 16 years. Two themes dominate a third of this cycle’s openings — the upsurge in new downtown hotel restaurants, and new ventures started by veterans of the local dining scene.

NEW TABLES

The Galt House (140 N. Fourth St.), which lately has undertaken a number of renovations and redesigns, has opened a new ground-floor restaurant, Walker’s Exchange, with patio access to the Belvedere. Allan Rosenberg, the always-inventive veteran whose previous restaurants included the Frankfort Avenue bistro Danielle’s, Papalinos Pizza and Butchertown Pizza Hall, is overseeing the kitchen. Two brand new hotels, Hotel Distil, 101 West Main St., and Moxy Hotel, 100 W. Washington St., are wooing diners with an assortment of options. Hotel Distil’s flagship offering is the upscale Repeal Oak-Fired Steakhouse. Then it tops things off with Whiskey Row’s only open-air rooftop bar, Bitters End, which complements artisanal cocktails and house-made bitters with an attractive menu of small plates. Moxy Hotel, on the other hand, is focusing on fun, super8 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

casual dining with its 24-hour Zombie Taco walk-up shop. The Omni Hotel, 400 S. 2nd St., which for a brief moment was the new kid in town, has enhanced its dining options with Con Huevos Crave, the third outlet for the popular Clifton-based Mexican breakfast and lunch spot. Omni’s installation features a slimmed down, grab-and-go menu. Local dining veterans who are branching out include Bobby Benjamin’s Butchertown Grocery Bakery (729 E. Main St.), where his accomplished baker and pastry chef, Barbara Turner, has a generous new space in which to expand her repertoire. Against the Grain, the successful brewhouse and restaurant at Slugger Field on Main Street, has taken over the Cumberland Brews space in the Highlands and re-dubbed it Public House By Against The Grain (1576 Bardstown Rd.). The owners of the excellent Jasmine Essential Chinese Continued on page 10

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starters | comings & goings

have opened Jasmine Asian Bistro (2420 Lime Kiln Ln.), bringing their authentic Szechuan menu (and a sushi bar) to a somewhat more upscale space. The owners of Havana Rumba have moved into the former Waylon’s Feed and Firewater. The new place, Mojito in Havana (3939 Shelbyville Rd.) brings together Rumba’s Cuban offerings and a best-of collection of dishes from sister establishment Mojitos Tapas Restaurant. And Allan Rosenberg — apparently needing more projects to keep himself busy — is overseeing the small bites bar menu at Butcher Block Eatery at High Horse (1032 Story Ave.), which has taken over the former Do Drop Inn. By the way, the Bucher Block principals include Marie Zahn, whose cocktail wizardry has been part of the local scene since the days of the legendary, lamented 732 Social. Two new restaurants have sparked considerable early buzz. District 6, named for the owners’ native neighborhood in Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, is a Vietnamese gastropub, serving traditional Vietnamese dishes with modern interpretations, and an imaginative cocktail menu. SOU! Southern Kitchen and Bar (9980 Linn Station Rd.) is helmed by Chef James Moran (8UP, Seviche), who offers an eclectic menu that ranges from crispy cauliflower in sorghum peanut sauce to chicken and waffles to salmon in coconut habanero curry. The dining scene across the river continues to intrigue. We’re recording another craft brewery in New Albany: Our Lady of Perpetual Hops (300 Foundation Ct.). The brewery will host food trucks on Fridays and Saturdays. Also in New Albany, Get It on a Bun at Booty’s (822 State St.) started as a food truck but now has landed in a stationary location. In Jeffersonville, The Early Edition is a breakfast spot that will share space with the soon-to-open Dos Gringos (149 Spring St.). And out at the casino in Elizabeth, Indiana (which has been rebranded Caesar’s Southern Indiana), The Piazza is now the new casual dining offering. Back in Louisville, an additional 11 new restaurants have opened in the last three months. Primo’s Pizza, an excellent new place with old-fashioned pizza values, took over the former Pieology space at 2043 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. Lucky Burrito, a sort of spinoff from La Suerte, has found a niche at 2118 Bardstown Rd. You can access it from the larger restaurant or from the street. Its fortuitous location next to Great Flood Brewing allows beer drinkers to bring back to the brewery tacos, tamales and burritos for consumption. Limón y Sal brings a modern Mexican approach to 10000 Brownsboro Rd. (previously home of Casa Fiesta). A new Cuban/Caribbean restaurant, Open Caribbean Kitchen at 4735 Poplar Level Rd. is yet another business that got its start 10 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

at the Chef ’s Space business incubator in the West End. Apna Café at 11322 Maple Dr. serves Indian food. Juno, 5406 Antle Dr., brings sushi, hibachi, and other Japanese items to the Okolona area. Charcoal, at 2805 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., serves a limited menu of charcoal roasted-chicken with garlic sauce, falafel and Middle Eastern sides like tabbouli and hummus. Out at 12406 LaGrange Rd., Philly Cheesesteak Express touts its menu in its name, as does Louisville Vegan Foods at Logan Street Market (1001 Logan St.). Louisville International Pub has opened at 5343 Mitscher Ave., replacing the former Peppermint Lounge. ShopBar has opened in a renovated building at 950 Barret Ave. Inside is a bar, in the back is a permanent food truck and the patio is a pleasant covered eating and drinking space. Five existing restaurant businesses have determined that this moment seems a good time for expansion. Biscuit Belly has opened a second location in St .Matthews in the Vogue Center complex at 3723 Lexington Rd. Royals Hot Chicken is on the verge of opening an outlet in Jeffersontown, at 10305 Taylorsville Rd. And Please And Thank You has expanded into the suburbs, opening another location at 9561 Hwy. 42 in Prospect. Gustavo’s Mexican Grill has also seen potential in the suburbs, opening another outlet in Norton Commons at 10715 Meeting St., and Spinelli’s Pizzeria has reopened the store at 4005 Shelbyville Rd.

CLOSINGS

Of the 22 businesses that have closed in the last three months, four are long-running venues that have run out of steam, and several others had noticeably short lives on the competitive restaurant battlefield. City Café, a local chain popular for fresh and creative sandwiches, soups, and salads, closed its last foothold at 505 W. Broadway.Two long-running mainstays, Café Mimosa and The Egg Roll Machine, both at 1543 Bardstown Rd., have closed as well (word is that Dragon King’s Daughter will take over the Mimosa location). Stout Burgers, which had a multi-year run at 1604 Bardstown Rd., is retreating from the Louisville market. The last long-time stalwart to mention this issue is Bussman’s Bakery, which closed its store at 1906 Frankfort Ave. Other businesses succumbed, after relatively short runs, to the various pressures that challenge restaurants. Butchertown Pizza Hall (1301 Story Ave.) has closed; owner Allan Rosenberg has quickly found other projects. Flavour, which moved into the multi-level space vacated last year by Asiatique at 1767 Bardstown Rd., has closed after little more than a year in business. We understand that El Mundo has

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plans for that space next year. Palatucci’s Italian Ristorante (204 S. Spring St.) closed after barely five months. Steve O’s Italian Kitchen also closed after only a few months in the former Clifton’s Pizza location at 2230 Frankfort Ave. Hull & High Water, the casual seafood restaurant started by Eric Morris, who also had a short but warmly remembered stint with Gospel Bird, has closed. It was at 324 E. Main St., New Albany. Cumberland Brews closed at 1527 Bardstown Rd., but the space was quickly transformed into Public House at Against the Grain. Other closings include Casa Fiesta, 10000 Brownsboro Rd.; that space is now Limón y Sal. Freakin’ Unbelievable Burgers, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., has closed, as has Inwave Restaurant and Juice Bar, 10310 Shelbyville Rd. Two restaurants at Horseshoe Casino Hotel in Indiana have closed — JB’s Café and Smoke and Rye — as the whole casino complex rebrands itself as Caesar’s Southern Indiana. Two multi-location businesses have reduced their numbers by one each. Pieology at 2043 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. closed, but Primo’s Pizza rose in its place. Zoe’s Kitchen, 3723 Lexington Rd. closed; Biscuit Belly is opening another outlet at that central location in St. Matthews.

A few restaurants are closed for renovations. La Bamba, the semi-famous giant burrito supplier, is closed for major renovations to its long-time location at 1237 Bardstown Rd. Bombozz Pizza and Watch Bar is gradually renovating and refocusing all its outlets. Currently the pizza joint at 1315 Herr Ln. is closed for that renovation. We are continuing to de-list three of the restaurants that were put out of business by the collapse of their continuous roof at the strip of stores on Oeschli Ave. Havana Rumba had planned to move before the collapse, but the other three businesses there, Del Frisco’s, Charim Korean and Half Peach Café are still awaiting recompense from the strip mall’s owners and insurers.

MOVES & CHANGES

Finally, two restaurants are undergoing some changes. Los Aztecas, a fixture at the corner of S. Sixth and W. Main Streets for 21 years, left its long-time location there (530 W. Main St.) and moved into the space vacated by Wild Rita’s at 445 E. Market St. And Olive Leaf Bistro, 130 W. Riverside Dr. in Jeffersonville is changing its name to Bella Italia and refocusing its menu on Italian cuisine. F&D

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liquids | hip hops

The Wallonian Farmhouse Ale Trail BY ROGER BAYLOR PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

Why Saison Dupont remains the Belgian-style country ale yardstick

y grandparents inhabited farmhouses, primarily

because they owned farms and lived right where they worked. There is no evidence to indicate

any of them homebrewed or drank beer in appreciable quantity, although a few bottles of bourbon, kept stashed strictly for “medicinal” purposes, is a virtual certainty.

Lately “farmhouse” has come into fashion as a beer style descriptor, and fevered scrutiny has greeted this usage, to the degree that many beer aficionados spend less time drinking “farmhouse” brews than arguing about terminology and posting brewfies to Instagram. Some enthusiasts believe farmhouse brewing can occur only when organic retro-engineered barley, hand-harvested hops and wild yeasts are deployed for a brew day in an actual house on a real farm, although in a pinch, the barn also might do. (Mercifully, the outhouse has yet to be mentioned as an attribute of authenticity.) Defining stylistic terms is difficult under these circumstances. Should farmhouse ales be dry, malty, sour, bitter, rustic, refined, seasonable or strong? In fact, all of these characteristics can apply depending on a brewer’s whim. While there seems to be general agreement that Belgium is the heartland of farmhouse ales, even this assertion isn’t clear, given that Swedes, Finns and Estonians have their own distinct indigenous narratives. What’s more, our Euro-bias is obvious; what about sorghum beers from Africa and corn-based chicha in South America? Must farmhouse beers be warm-fermented ale at all, seeing as there are traditions of cool-fermented farmhouse lager brewing in Bavaria and Northern France? The current ruckus over “farmhouse” is a topic of sufficient intensity that a lapsed brewery owner like me is better to focus on a narrower bit of the kaleidoscope: saison, which has survived modernity and remains an exemplar of traditional European countryside taste in ale. The story begins with geography. Saison is the French word for season, brewed by farmers in Wallonia, the French-speaking southern half of Belgium bordering on France, Luxembourg and Germany. Flanders is the country’s northern half, where the language is Flemish, a Dutch dialect. The mysterious forested hills and ridges known as the Ardennes are situated in southeastern Wallonia, an enduringly scenic and sparsely populated area that was the setting for the Battle of the Bulge in World War II. As one travels west and north, the hills become gentler. The Meuse and Sambre 12 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

River valleys link Liege, Namur, Charleroi and Mons, cities once renowned as industrial centers of coal, steel, glass and cement production. By the 1960s, many of the factories were obsolete, and a “rust belt” formed. Mons, a battleground in World War I, is the capital of Hainaut province, the westernmost in Wallonia. Beginning in Mons, and continuing westward to Tournai, the terrain begins to flatten into the Flanders plain stretching to the Atlantic. Crops in Hainaut include wheat, oats, sugar beets, chicory – and barley. A simple bike ride through the countryside yields abundant olfactory evidence of hogs and cattle. It’s common even today to see four-sided brick farmsteads, with the house and outbuildings arranged around a central courtyard. For hundreds of years, Wallonian farmers situated their rudimentary kettles and fermenters near deeply dug wells, golden fields of barley and trellises heavy with hops.They brewed only during the cool months, bottled and cellared their output, because in the time before refrigeration it was too warm to make beer in summer. The milder versions of these ales were intended as refreshment during the working day, with the stronger ones (higher in alcohol, more residual sugar and calories) reserved for sustenance later in the evening. There were as many different variants as farmhouse breweries, although similarities in ingredients probably yielded an approximate regional template. The industrial revolution came full-throttle to Wallonia in the 19th century, and ripple effects were pervasive. Mechanized agriculture required fewer workers, who migrated to urban areas. Modern breweries sprang up to serve them, and many emulated German lager brewing, the great trend of the 19th century.

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Time passed, tastes changed, and in Hainaut province, where hundreds of breweries once flourished, only a handful eventually survived to serve small local markets. One of them was Brasserie Dupont, then as now one component of a family-owned farm. In the early 1980s, Don Feinberg and Wendy Littlefield founded Vanberg & DeWulf, a specialty beer importer. They contacted Brasserie Dupont as a possible supplier, and the brewery couldn’t imagine why; really, rustic ale in America? Eventually Dupont agreed to export its Vieille Provision (today’s Saison Dupont) to America, explaining why one particular saison of many, as interpreted by a rural brewery in the fields near Tourpes, became the saison yardstick for generations of craft brewers. So it remains, at least in my personal estimation. Rick Stidham, owner and brewer at Louisville’s Akasha Brewing Company, agrees. “Saison Dupont is the classic example of the style,” Stidham told me by email. “It’s kind of a beacon for dead-center that any brewer would do well to keep sight of while developing a new saison, although for me exploring some distance from dead-center is almost always more fun than trying to hit it.” Consequently, if the center of the target is Saison Dupont’s recipe, then it’s a disarmingly simple one: 100% pilsner malt, two hop additions, local hard water and the secret weapon, a proprietary yeast strain that produces a fruity, peppery spiciness and a lean, attenuated body. More than one brewer has referred to this yeast as Dupont’s secret weapon. Golden-colored, dry and peppery with a trademark rocky head of foam, Dupont emphatically agrees with grilled meats, funky cheeses and seafood. Other commercially brewed saisons worth sampling are Fantome (Belgium); Boulevard Tank 7 and North Coast Le Merle (American craft beers); and Monnik Beer Company’s local Eagle Skull. Meanwhile breweries like Akasha are expanding style parameters, giving new meaning to saisons and farmhouse ales alike. I asked Stidham for an example. “At Akasha, we haven’t used Saison Dupont as a template so much as an inspiration. Our recent Brettanomyces saison, Alto, has a similar dryness and shares other less-well-definable characteristics, but obviously it’s not at all the same beer and wasn’t intended to be.” Nor should it. In our current cornucopia of beer choice, tradition and innovation are by no means mutually exclusive, and the search for your perfect beer can last a lifetime. F&D

hip hops | liquids

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food | easy entertaining

EASY entertaining BY TIM & LORI LAIRD AND ADAM “CHUBS” STECKLER PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

The great American food writer M.F.K. Fisher once said, “Wine and cheese are ageless companions, like aspirin and aches, or June and moon, or good people and noble ventures.” This time of year, there are few ventures more noble than gathering friends, family, and neighbors for a cheese and wine party. It’s an experiential occasion that gets everyone into the act. When wine is correctly paired with food, the wine makes the food taste better and food makes the wine taste better. Anytime we’re planning a party or gathering, we think it’s wise to consult an expert, so we asked Cheesemonger Adam “Chubs” Steckler of Harvey’s Cheese in the new Logan Street Market to search through the offerings at Harvey's and put together cheese boards appropriate for a few different scenarios.

Cheese &Wine

Windsor Red

Fromage D’affinois Buffarolo

A Party Cheese Board

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easy entertaining | food

n fact, we asked Steckler to give us advice in planning five different kinds of social gatherings. He came back with some great suggestions — and great tasting notes for all his recommended cheese boards. Steckler gave us the lists, storage tips, and tasting notes (adding tasting notes to your board is a great idea!). And we added some tips that will help you plan a successful and fun cheese and wine party. By the way, just in case you can’t find the specific cheeses Steckler recommends, we’ve included great traditional pairings that never fail. We love all these ideas, and we think you and your guests will, too! Here is what our guest Cheesemonger had to say.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Fromage D’affinois, a rich, buttery, douA Party Cheese Board ble crème cheese. Our “hard” cheese (8-12 guests)

Passive cheese boards (stand-alone boards that aren’t part of a larger menu) are always fun to play around with. You’re not necessarily pairing anything with the cheeses, so it’s your time to have fun and put out interesting combinations. When building a cheese board I like to follow a few basic guidelines: vary your textures, play with colors, and switch up your milk types. Traditionally I go for a 3 cheese board consisting of a soft spreadable cheese, a hard cheese, and a wild card which is normally a blue or goat cheese. For this board, for our “soft,” we chose a

isn’t actually all that hard. It’s Windsor Red, an English cheddar that derives tons of color and character from being marbled with Port wine and brandy. And our wild card cheese is Buffarolo, a buffalo milk, taleggio-style cheese that’s cave-aged in Brooklyn, NY. The pulp of this cheese is big and beefy with just a hint of musk. It’s a little stinky and delightfully irresistible. We also laid out a fair amount of fresh and dried fruits and nuts on this board as a palate cleanser — eating too much cheese alone will fatigue your taste buds. I like to leave all of my crackers off the cheese board and really let the cheese itself shine. Don’t overthink

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food | easy entertaining

Storing Cheese • Keep the cheese wrapped so it doesn't dry out when storing. Unwrap it just before serving. Wrap and refrigerate any leftover cheese as soon as possible. • Plastic wrap is acceptable for wrapping cheese. To allow the cheese to breathe and keep it from discoloring the wrap should be changed every few days. • Different types of cheese require different methods of storage: • Hard cheeses with little moisture (Parmesan) should be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap to avoid further moisture loss. • Semi-hard cheeses (Cheddar, Jack, Swiss) can be wrapped in either plastic wrap, wax paper or parchment paper. • Semi-soft cheese (Brie, Blue) should be wrapped in wax paper or parchment paper, or may be kept in a plastic container. • Soft or fresh cheeses (Ricotta, Feta) should be kept in a plastic container.

your crackers. Simple black pepper or sea salt crackers are perfect for any cheese board. I love seeded and fruited crackers, but they will fall flat when really trying to capture the nuances of a cheese you’ve never had. Also try serving a crusty baguette on the side with aged balsamic vinegar or an olive oil and spice dip.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– A Wine and Cheese Pairing Party (6-8 guests)

Start things off with Champagne and Cowgirl Creamery’s Red Hawk and some strawberries. This triple cream, washed-rind brings a little funk to the party. The sweetness from the strawberries brings out the hidden delicacy and creaminess in an otherwise stinky cheese. Paired with a sparking glass of wine, this will be sure to please your guests. Or you can serve with champagne instead and wow your guests! ■ Traditional champagne pairing: Camembert

Use a Chardonnay as your second wine, and match it up with Tete de Moine, a rich, slightly pungent small format, unpasteurized cow cheese from Switzerland. This is a great traditional cheese that’s been made since before 1200 AD. It’s great when served in the traditional manner: “rosettes.” Shaving these small, rose shaped flowers from the top of the cheese which aerates it and brings the full flavor profile to the forefront. Add some honey and glistening, juicy red pomegranate arils for color and zing. And go bold, with a big oaky chardonnay. ■ Traditional champagne pairing: Chevre (goat cheese)

Cheese for a Date Night

Finish up your party with a Pinot Noir and Manchego, which makes a delicious match. Manchego is a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese. For this occasion, we opted for a young, unpasteurized version (aged four months). This is a great pairing: sheep’s milk has rich fat that cuts through tannins like a hot knife. You might also pair this cheese with a spicy Spanish red or a Tempranillo varietal. ■ Traditional champagne pairing: Anything sheep By the way, when in doubt, it’s a great idea to pair wines and cheeses that are produced in the same region. It’s not the only way to pair, but it’s a great start.

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easy entertaining | food

For a Bourbon and Cheese Pairing

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Cheese for a Date Night

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Bourbon and Scotch with Cheese? (2 guests) Why not? Check these out: –––––––––––––––––––––––––– Jasper Hill Harbison is the cheese you For a Bourbon and never knew you always wanted. Working Cheese Pairing

in a cheese shop you find that men and women often times have the same approach to cheese for date night: soft buttery cheese with sweet sugary jam. I think this works and is wonderful, but not all cheeses need sweet accompaniments. Harbison has a complex woodsy taste that comes from the spruce bark it’s wrapped in. Let this cheese come up to room temperature, cut the top off, and serve with a spoon. Pair this cheese with pickles, salamis, crusty bread, your favorite strong mustard, and the beverage of your choice. This is an intriguing cheese you and your partner won’t soon forget.

(2-4 guests)

We live in the land of bourbon, and this combination is one of our all-time favorites: Woodford Double Oaked paired with Mont Saint Francis, produced by Capriole Cheese in Greenville Indiana, about 30 minutes north of Louisville. This goat cheese is hand-washed with dark beer, then aged to perfection. It’s a strong cheese with a touch of sweetness that admirably holds its ground against the wood and slight smoke that comes from this amazing bourbon.

For a Scotch and Cheese Pairing

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– For a Scotch and Cheese Pairing (2-4 guests)

This one was a surprise. We paired Gran Noir Blue with Glendronach 12year-old Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky. Gran Noir blue is a German blue with a decadence unlike any other. It eats like a buttery triple crème cheese. I love this cheese with scotch, but Wow! This scotch was unlike any I had ever tasted. There was almost no sign of peat on my palate and a good amount of sweet. This pairing is fantastic but might be slightly too sweet for some palates. A double crème brie would also be fantastic with this scotch and the Gran Noir could stand up against a scotch with more peat. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2019 17

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food | easy entertaining

Tips on hosting a wine and cheese party • Offer a wide selection of white and red wines so your guests can experiment with many flavors. • Set out the cheeses at least two hours ahead so they have time to come to room temperature and exhibit their full flavor. • Plate the cheeses with their own serving knife and leave enough space between the cheeses so the flavors do not blend. • Use cheese markers so your guests know what type of cheese they are tasting. • Use a glass that can multi-task for both white and red wines. This would be a standard wine glass or one of your larger white wine glasses. • Place wine charms on the glasses so your guests can keep track of their glass. • Set out a pitcher of water and a dump bucket so your guests can rinse their glass after each wine they try. • When tasting, you will want to pour just enough wine in the glass to have about two or three sips to try with a couple bites of cheese. This way each guest can try several combinations. • Plan on approximately 12 - 15 tasting pours per bottle of wine. • Sample the wines and cheeses from light to heavy. Start with the white wines and then move into the reds. • Set out many different crackers and light bites to help cleanse the palate after each tasting. • Plate an assortment of fresh fruit to compliment the cheeses such as: seedless grapes, apples and pears. • Nuts, especially walnuts, cashews and almonds will pair well with the wines, too. • Encourage your guests to talk about their wine and cheese experience after they sip and taste. • Poll who liked which pairings the best and have your guests keep a record of their favorites. • Experiment with our “Basic Guide” to get a sense of what a great pairing can do for wine and cheese. Then try your own experiments!

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Must-Try Wine Pairing Guide • Sauvignon Blanc with goat cheese: Both of these items are slightly acidic and have a strong taste. When you try them together, the wine tastes creamier and the cheese tastes milder. • Chardonnay with Fontina: The cheese can be pungent with an intense flavor, this pairing makes both the wine and cheese taste creamy and lush. • Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc with Blue Cheese: Both the wine and the cheese have big bold flavors. Sampled together, the wine tames the blue cheese and the cheese makes the wine taste velvety smooth. What happens is the fat content of the cheese mellows the tannins in the wine and the wine makes the blue cheese soft and creamy. • For a sweet treat try a couple bites of dark bittersweet chocolate with the cabernet. It is truly a wonderful marriage of food and wine. To make a festive dessert, rim a red wine glass in melted chocolate, let set and when it’s dessert time fill it with cabernet.

A Basic Guide to Other Wine Pairings

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

■

Blue

■

Brie

■

Cheddar

■

Gouda

■

Gruyere

■

Monterey Jack

■

Parmigiano Reggiano

■

Swiss

Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz or Zinfandel

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Chardonnay or Pinot Noir

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot or Shiraz

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Riesling, Merlot or Zinfandel

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc or Shiraz

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc or Merlot

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir

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easy entertaining | food

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liquids | spirits

Pizza Lupo’s Beverage Director Jessye Ramsey

BY MARTY ROSEN | PHOTO BY DAN DRY

he typical well-stocked backbar in Louisville – or anywhere in America, for that matter – gives off an amber glow as stately and authoritative as the burnished chambers of an old-school attorney. As evidence of quality, the labels on the bottles state their age and their proof. The names on the bottles invoke legendary people, places, and landmarks. The most frequently used adjective is “old.” Even the fonts look like something copied from an ancient parchment. Such bars have a reassuring gravitas built around rigorously defined categories and classifications and legally-defined mash bills. A person can behold such a bar and think, “Yes, the universe truly is orderly and predictable.” But there are other bars where the labels are a riot of colors and images. They sport strange vegetal tangles and maidens dancing across Alpine landscapes. The fonts could have been created for the cover of a comic book or a noirish graphic novel. And in many cases there’s not a word of English to be seen on the label. If you run into a bar like that, there’s a pretty good chance that you’ve come across a place that highlights the chaotic, anarchic pleasures of Amaro.

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The Italian word “Amaro” translates as “bitter” in English. Intuitively, “bitter” is an offputting word for most of us. In the U.S., bartenders have long used amari (the plural form) to bolster the flavor profiles of cocktails (especially in the vibrant class of Italian-style pre-dinner cocktails, like Negronis). But for many of us the notion of sipping full-strength bitter liquids is intimidating. Elsewhere in the world, though, and increasingly in the U.S., amari are becoming stand-alone beverage staples, sipped neat, on the rocks, with a splash of sparkling water, or as the main ingredient in virally popular drinks like the Aperol Spritz. In the Fall issue of F&D, we profiled Max Balliet, chef-owner of Pizza Lupo, who took us on a deep-dive into the culinary joys and mysteries of bitterness on the palate. So it should come as no surprise that amari are highlighted in Lupo’s bar program. At last count the Lupo Amari list had nearly fifty entries — and Lupo Bar Manager Jessye Ramsey frequently greets customers with news of another arrival (most recently it was a blueberry-inflected bottle called Pasubio that’s produced in Italy’s northern Alpine region). Before coming to Louisville, Ramsey spent part of her career in Portland, Oregon, at the

renowned Multnomah Whiskey Library. And talking to her is like consulting a gifted and enthusiastic reference librarian. She’ll chat with you about your flavor preferences, your menu selections, your tastes in beer, wine, and spirits. Then her mental Rolodex starts spinning and she’s laying out options and steering you to a perfect choice: like the pine-scented, orange peel and artichoke notes in the sippable, winebased Cardamaro that pairs perfectly with the old-fashioned cream pie that Max’s mom cooks up for the weekend service.

A Drink That Knows No Rules

Expert advice is helpful as you enter into the world of amaro – and if you ask you’ll find that a high percentage of bar professionals are knowledgeable enthusiasts; many are passionate enthusiasts. And the first advice you’re likely to get from amaro enthusiasts is likely to be: “There are no rules.” You’ll see labels like “aperitif ” or “digestif,” which suggest that an amaro is better suited for drinking before a meal or after, but those are just suggestions. Ramsey says that an Italian may ardently recommend a preferred amaro, but as for how and when to drink it, their advice is likely to be,

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“Drink it before a meal. Drink it after a meal. Drink it when you wake up. Drink it when you go to bed. Their brand will vary depending on where they’re from or a family affiliation with a particular brand, but going to just that brand at any time of day.” Balliet echoes that sentiment. “The Italians are very relaxed about this,” he says. “For them all these bottles really do just fall into the category ‘amari.’ They don’t break them down and say, ‘this is a digestif and this is an aperitif.’ They’re just amari and Italians are going to drink them whenever they want to drink them.” For people with a taste for adventure, that absence of rules is both alluring and challenging. On the one hand, you’re not testing your taste against someone else’s rating or putative expertise. All that matters is what you like.

But how to dive in?

One way is just to dive in by sampling whatever you find. At Lupo, amari are priced by the shot ($5-$7). Any amaro can be transformed into a “spritz” by adding Prosecco and soda water for a small upcharge. If you’re already familiar with the popular amaro-based spritzes, Ramsey suggests exploring other amari through the same vehicle. Or, for no charge at all, you can ask for a glass of ice or a glass of sparkling water. Then sip the amaro straight and pure to experience the mouthfeel and the intense, unique interplay of bitter, sweet, and herbal flavors that characterizes every amaro. Then, if you like, make yourself a simple amaro “splash” to see how the flavors open up when slightly diluted. All these amari, even the most bitter, are a mix of exquisitely complicated and idiosyncratic flavors and mouthfeels. Tasting your way through this category is like working your way through a fascinating crowd at a party. Some bottles you’ll latch on to, some you’ll return to occasionally,

spirits | liquids

and some you’ll avoid in the future at all costs — but you won’t regret the experience. Don’t forget that although amari can be drunk alone, in Italy, where they originated, they are also an essential part of the dining experience. Ramsey notes that these low-proof, herb-inflected beverages stimulate the palate prior to a meal and aid with digestion after. And there are guides. Best to find a knowledgeable bartender, or second best a full list with descriptive notes. The list at Lupo breaks things into categories (“sweet” and “bitter”). But all amari are by definition bitter, and all are a complex mix. So don’t put too much stock in those divides. More useful are descriptive tasting notes. Lupo’s list, for instance, describes the popular Aperol as “sweet orange, rhubarb, white flowers”; the Cardamaro mentioned above is “tangy, orange peel, pine.” The list is full of references to flavors and aromas like rhubarb, mint, tarragon, anise, clove, espresso, smoke, lemon, saffron, and more.” Brad Thomas, the author of Amaro: The Spirited World of Bittersweet, Herbal Liqueur, with Cocktails, Recipes, and Formulas, suggests dividing amari into styles like light and medium (which vary in color, intensity, and their balance of herbs and citrus); Alpine (which feature pine scents and mountain herbs); fernets (bitter-focused), carciofo (artichoke), and rabarbaro (which derive their flavor from rhubarb). But all of these are idiosyncratic, multi-flavored potions that grab your attention and make you think about what you’re experiencing. When you do find an amaro you’d like to take home, you’ll find selections in stores around town, but to my knowledge, the best bottle selection in the city can be found in the shop at the rear of the downtown craft cocktail bar called Meta. The shop is called Show & Tell at Meta (425 W. Chestnut, 502-822-6382, www.metalouisville.com — unlike the bar, the shop does keep daytime business hours). F&D

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liquids | spirits

BY SUSAN REIGLER | PHOTO BY ANDY HYSLOP

ourbon drinkers are aware that their favorite whiskey, while distilled from a fermented grain recipe that is mostly made up of corn, usually also contains a fairly large percentage of rye, as well as a portion of malted barley. In the whiskey industry, rye in this context is referred to as a “flavoring grain.” Most bourbons are about three quarters corn. But some have quite a high rye content. The B mash bill for Four Roses, for example, is 60 percent corn, 35 percent rye, and five percent malted barley.

Occasionally (in about 20 brands nationally out of hundreds), wheat is used as the flavoring grain. Even more rarely, both will be used. Or some different grains entirely, such as rice or oats are included. Nonetheless, rye is the flavoring grain of choice for bourbon. It adds spice and backbone to the sweetness coming from the corn. But, while bourbon is America’s “native spirit,” as defined by an Act of Congress in 1964 declaring that bourbon is “a distinctive American product,” a different whiskey was the darling of American drinkers just after the Revolutionary War. Rye whiskey, where corn was the flavoring grain, was king. Or perhaps, more fittingly, president. The proprietor of one of the largest commercial whiskey distil22 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

leries in the United States at the end of the 1700s was George Washington. Turning grain into whiskey was a great value multiplier for the crop, since it could be converted to a non-perishable product and shipped easily. So, most farmers, including Washington, were also distillers. (Similarly, excess fruit was distilled into brandy.) Unlike other farmers, Washington employed an immigrant Scot named James Anderson, who built and ran his Mt. Vernon distillery as a large-scale enterprise. Upon Washington’s death in 1799, it was producing more than 10,000 gallons of alcohol per year which supplied taverns in Alexandria, Baltimore, and beyond. The Mt. Vernon rye had a mash bill of 60 percent rye, 35 percent corn, and five per cent malted barley. It was not aged (therefore clear in color) and sold as “common whiskey.” Today Washington’s distillery has been recreated (with stills made at Louisville’s Vendome Copper & Brass Works) and a limited amount of both aged and unaged rye is made and sold at Mt.Vernon. George Washington’s Straight Rye is aged four years, uses the historic mash bill, and is 86 proof. Rye was a grain that grew well in New York, Pennsylvania, and Maryland. So historically rye was the whiskey of choice in those states even as distillers west of the Appalachians were building the cornbased bourbon whiskey industry. The Manhattan cocktail, invented in New York in the late 1800s, was originally made with rye, as well as

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sweet vermouth and a dash of bitters. Well into the 1980s, that’s how it was served in New York. But one indicator of bourbon’s ascent is that now, when you order a Manhattan in Manhattan, the vast majority of the time you’ll be asked what brand of bourbon you want in it. The other leading rye cocktail has been the Sazerac of New Orleans. It came on the scene a bit later than the Manhattan and was the drink of choice at the eponymous Sazerac House on Royal Street (a new version of which has recently opened on Canal Street) and the Absinthe House, which dispenses cocktails to this day at the corner of Bienville and Bourbon Streets. The cocktail was heavily promoted by Thomas H. Handy, a maker of bitters who acquired the Peychaud’s brand. To make a Sazerac, add a sugar cube and a little water and muddle to mixing glass. Add two ounces of rye, a couple of dashes of Peychaud’s bitters, ice, and stir. Rinse a rocks glass with absinthe, discard the excess and strain the whiskey and bitters into the glass. Garnish with an orange peel. The Sazerac Company of New Orleans happens to be the owner of Kentucky’s Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, where Sazerac Rye and two ryes from the distillery’s Antique Collection – Sazerac Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey 18-Year-Old and Thomas H. Handy Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey (barrel proof) – are made. The Antique Collection whiskies, which includes Eagle Rare 17-Year Old, George T. Stagg, and William Larue Weller bourbons, are very limited production and prized by collectors. The 90 proof Sazerac expression with no age statement is readily available and, naturally, makes a fine Sazarac cocktail. Rye whiskeys, which have always been the brown spirits of choice in Canada, still play second banana to bourbon in the United States. But thanks to demand from whiskey drinkers who favor the bolder, spicier character of rye and to distillers around the country (including many in the Midwest, West, and mid-Atlantic, more different ryes are available now than since before Prohibition. They have the second largest number of brands after bourbon. Few ryes produced elsewhere are available here, but Kentucky’s legacy bourbon distilleries have taken note of a rise in rye’s popularity and most are making at least one. The bottlings from the Bluegrass State tend to feature near the bare minimum of rye (51

per cent) required in order to be classified as rye whiskey. Like bourbon, they must be aged in new charred oak barrels. Here, in alphabetical order, are 11 from Kentucky, and one from Virginia, that can be found on local retailers’ shelves. Experiment with all in a Manhattan or Sazarac.

spirits | liquids

Rye Tasting Notes

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Buzzard’s Roost Small Batch (Distilleries listed in parentheses)

Sourced from MPG in Indiana but given a secondary finish in proprietary barrels with specially carved staves. Packed with fruit and spice. A Christmas pudding in a glass. (Buzzard’s Roost Sippin’ Whiskeys)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Roundstone Rye Distiller’s Select This has a 100 percent rye mash bill. Lots of herbal rye grass and spice character, supported by plenty of caramel. (Catoctin Creek)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Kentucky Owl Vanilla, dark fruit, and leather dominate this 11-year-old barrel proof whiskey. (Kentucky Owl, LLC)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Knob Creek Vanilla, rye grass, baking spices, and citrus. (Beam Suntory)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– MB Roland Rye crackers, caramel, and new saddle leather. Barrel proof. (MB Roland)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Michter’s Vanilla, cherry cola, caramel, brown sugar, and baking spices. (Michter’s)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Peerless Small Batch 3-Year-Old Rye grass, stewed fruit, and milk chocolate. Barrel proof. (Kentucky Peerless)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Pikesville Rye Bold rye spice with apples and cherries. (Heaven Hill)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Wild Turkey Rye Rye grass with honey, vanilla, and ginger. (Wild Turkey)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Woodford Reserve Vanilla and hazelnuts with rye grass and orchard fruit. (Woodford Reserve)

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food | cooking with ron

BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOS BY ANDY HYSLOP

Korean chicken soup

hen dusk starts to obscure the day at 4:30, when that cool autumn breeze turns into a face-chilling Arctic blast, when you curse yourself in the morning for forgetting your gloves as your fingers turn blue on the steering wheel, then our appetites turn towards stomach-warming, stuffy-nose-clearing, soul-comforting soups.

Aside from gazpacho — a way to eat as many in-season local tomatoes as possible — and an occasional foray into an elegant-sounding cold vegetable purée as a summer dinner party first course, cold soups have not made inroads into my culinary repertoire. But come cooler weather, I eagerly peruse cookbooks and cooking magazines seeking inspiration for chunky hot soups that provide quick, reheatable lunches or, with salad and bread, easy, satisfying dinners. A choice of three or four soups bubbling softly on the stove and a loaf or two of hearty sourdough, or crusty baguette, or even sliced Pepperidge Farm pumpernickel makes for a convivial, make-ahead dinner party. Winter soups, then, provide many levels of satisfaction and solace. Soup making is, for me, an enjoyable way to play with food. Soups usually require considerable peeling, or scraping, or chopping, or dicing vegetable ingredients, and preliminary browning or searing of meats. The soup maven has to watch and stir and watch some more as the soup comes to a boil and then must adjust the heat to the right level of simmer. Then comes occasional stirring, and tasting and adjusting of seasonings. If you have the time, tending soups for an hour or two on the stove-top is a contemplative pleasure. 24 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

Stove top or pressure cooker? Both make good soups If you’re short on time but still crave the satisfaction of a hot, home-made, rib-sticking soup, use your pressure cooker or Instapot. Few pressure cooker soups take more than 30 minutes under pressure. Beforehand, there is still prep work – browning and searing, peeling, trimming, chopping – but once that lid clamps down and the pressure indicator locks everything tight, there is nothing further you can do. Pressure-cooking soup has always provided fine results for me, but I sometimes miss the watching, fussing, and checking things out that stovetop cooking invites. The soup recipes I've offered here provide a range of satisfying flavors. The baked bean soup is perhaps the fastest and easiest, and can be made in a half hour from a well stocked pantry. It is a vegan soup that has a rich umami flavor and mouth-filling texture. The Korean chicken soup, with the slow-onset and long-lasting spiciness of the gochujang chili paste (easily available now in most supermarket Asian food sections), gives welcome relief to stuffy noses and scratchy throats as well as being quite delicious even if you are healthy. The Portuguese kale and potato soup gets a milder spicy kick from the chorizo sausage, which underlays the richness and chewiness of the potatoes and kale. The goulash soup uses fresh and fermented cabbage – that would be the sauerkraut – and sweet paprika to convey its Middle European origins, and its milder taste and hunger-satisfying robustness. Soup bases make stocks almost instantly Since three of these recipes call for stocks, I will take one more opportunity to tout the value of keeping jars of the soup base Better Than

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cooking with ron | food Bouillon in the fridge. I used to make chicken stock from carcasses and bones and froze it to use in soups, gravies and glazes. But frozen stock takes up a lot of space in the freezer. Better Than Bouillon lasts for months after opening, is easy to use and measure, and creates flavorful stocks to use in any recipe calling for a stock. Several flavors, meat and vegetablebased, can be found next to canned soups in the grocery. For the next several months I will likely always have a container of soup in the fridge, ready to pull out and reheat for the perfect lunch after a brisk walk or a morning of chores. Note: Soups are the easiest recipes to alter to meet your needs. All the recipes here can be doubled, or cut in half, to adjust the proportions according to how many servings you want to make.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Korean chicken soup

1 onion peeled and chopped 8 cups chicken stock 2 pounds (about) potatoes, peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise and then into ¼-inch thick slices 6 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole 1 bunch kale, about 1 pound, trimmed, washed and thinly sliced Salt and pepper Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add chorizo and cook until nicely browned and set aside. In a heavy soup pot or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium heat. When shimmery, add onions and sauté until softened, five minutes or so. Add the chicken stock, potatoes and garlic and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until potatoes are tender,10 to 15 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer about half the

potatoes and all the garlic to a bowl and mash them lightly with a fork. Return to the soup and bring to a simmer. Stir in kale, a handful at a time, and simmer for five minutes, or until tender. Stir in the reserved chorizo and heat through. Taste and adjust seasonings with salt and pepper.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Baked bean soup (Serves 4)

2 1 5 1½ 2 2

tablespoons olive oil onion, peeled and chopped teaspoons chili powder teaspoons dry mustard cups water 15-ounce cans cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed and drained

Portuguese potato and kale soup

(Serves 6)

1 tablespoon sesame seeds 8 cups chicken broth 2 tablespoons garlic, peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger ½ cup uncooked white rice 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1-2 teaspoons gochujang or other hot chili paste ½ cup sliced mushrooms 1 cup shredded cooked chicken 2 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped In a small dry skillet, toast sesame seeds over medium-high heat, shaking until lightly browned and aromatic. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside. In a large soup pot, combine the chicken broth, garlic and ginger. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add rice, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in soy sauce and sesame oil; add chili paste to taste. Add mushrooms and chicken and heat until just warmed through. Garnish in bowls with scallions and toasted sesame seeds.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Portuguese potato and kale soup (Serves 6-8)

6 ounces chorizo sausage 1 tablespoon olive oil 25

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food | cooking with ron

Baked bean soup Goulash soup with sauerkraut

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cooking with ron | food 1 14½-ounce can stewed tomatoes with juices 3 tablespoons unsulfured molasses Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. When shimmery, add onions and cook, stirring, until soft, eight minutes or so. Add chili powder and mustard and stir. Add water, beans, tomatoes with their juices and molasses. Simmer soup 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and breaking up any large chunks of tomato. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve hot.

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Goulash soup with sauerkraut (Pressure cooker version) (Serves 6) The supermarket cut called “boneless country ribs” is ideal for this soup.

1 tablespoon oil 1½-2 pounds lean pork, cut into ½” cubes 3 tablespoons butter 4 onions, peeled and finely chopped 4 carrots, trimmed, scraped and finely chopped 2 ribs celery, strings removed and finely chopped 1 large garlic clove, peeled and minced 2-3 tablespoons Hungarian sweet paprika 1½ teaspoons fresh thyme or a half teaspoon dried, crumbled 1½ teaspoons fresh oregano or half teaspoon dried, crumbled ½ teaspoon caraway seeds 3 quarts beef stock 2 cups canned diced tomatoes 1 cup thinly sliced fresh cabbage 2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes 1 lb. sauerkraut, rinsed and drained Salt and pepper Sour cream for garnish Preheat the oven to broil. Lightly coat a baking pan with 1 tablespoon oil. Add the cubed pork, toss to coat with oil, arrange in a single layer and broil until nicely browned on all sides. Drain on paper towels and set aside. Melt butter in the bowl of the pressure cooker. When sizzling, add the chopped onions, carrots and celery and cook, stirring now and then, until vegetables soften, five minutes or more. Stir in the browned pork and all the other remaining ingredients except the sauerkraut. Lock on lid, bring to pressure and cook 30 minutes. Release pressure carefully. Stir in sauerkraut and simmer uncovered for an additional 15 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings. Garnish in bowl with sour cream if desired. F&D wwwfoodanddine.com Winter 2019 27

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FOOD | six bowls

Must-Try

Bowls Humans have been using bowls for at least 15,000 years, first carving them into limestone bedrock, then later fashioning portable bowls from wood, bone, horn and shell for processing, storing, carrying and serving food. For much of the past century, bowls seem to have ranked lower in the tablesetting hierarchy than flat plates. But in recent years that’s begun to change as diners increasingly take to convenient onedish pleasures like Ramen, Pho, Burrito Bowls, Mashed Potato Bowls, Poké Bowls and Buddha Bowls, not to mention the classic appeal of soup and salad bowls. We asked some F&D writers to go bowling through the restaurants of Louisville and search out some of the best offerings in the city. Here’s what they found. Lá Quê’s Red Curry

BY MICHAEL L. JONES & ALEX ROMA PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

Red Curry | Lá Quê 1019 Bardstown Road | 238-3981

AR • The search for the city’s best bowls started with F&D Publisher, John Carlos White. He has been singing the praises of this dish for quite some time. “It’s a comfort dish that leaves you feeling like your mom just gave you a big hug,” he said. And when he feels a bit under the weather, he claims that a bowl of Lá Quê’s Red Curry always seems to bring him around. Lá Quê is not a big place. Passing it on the street, it’s a small, pale-green, one-blink-and-you’ll-miss-it storefront.That’s cool, because the inside, too, feels small and intimate — exactly the kind of place you’d love to discover when you’re in search of quality food at a bargain price. When I visited, there was one other customer inside, seated by the window. He ordered the Red Curry — and he echoed exactly what I’d already heard. “Every

J. Gumbo’s Drunken Chicken

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six bowls | FOOD time I’m sick,” he said, “it clears me right up.” Me, I’m thinking, “Maybe they should bottle this stuff and start selling prescriptions!” It turns out that Lá Quê serves three different types of curry — green, yellow, and red. All of these varieties have their partisans. But the recipe for the Red Curry was created by the founder of Lá Quê, Hanh Duong, who adapted the recipe from one created by her grandmother. And that, is part of the secret. Hanh Duon’s grandmother’s original recipe was for a yellow curry. Yes, this red curry has the heat and spice you might expect, but it’s tempered by the sweeter, more delicate and nuanced notes reminiscent of a milder yellow curry. Ordered with chicken and mushrooms (it’s also available with tofu, mock chicken, and other proteins), served with rice, it delivers comforting warm flavors that are perfect for a cold rainy day. These days, Lá Quê Chef Chinh Dinh (whose wife Xo Thach now leases the restaurant from Hanh Duong) cooks up batches of the Red Curry at least once or twice a week, starting a new batch whenever supplies run low. When I reached Hanh Duong, she told me that her grandmother left China during the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945) and moved to Vietnam, where she raised her young children — and eventually, to share her cooking with her granddaughter. Duong told me that her grandmother’s recipes were, “Not something she would write down. Instead, you would ask what’s in it, and you would watch, and the cook, and then eat, and then talk about it. That’s how we learned to cook throughout those years.” “I do everything the same as then,” said Hanh Duong. “But I cut down on the yellow spices and I add red spices to it.” That, she says, is the secret of Lá Quê’s Red Curry — and maybe it accounts for the dish’s magical healing powers. But Hanh Duong, has another secret tip: She says the dish is even better if you replace the rice with rice noodles (which Lá Quê will happily accommodate) and squeeze fresh lime juice in the bowl as you go.

Drunken Chicken | J. Gumbo’s 1616 Grinstead Drive | 873-5006 2109 Frankfort Avenue | 896-4046 8603 Citadel Way | 493-4720

MJ • One way or another, cooks have been marinating, simmering, and steaming poultry in alcohol for thousands of years. But it took American ingenuity to invent the most important poultry breakthrough of all time: Beer Can Chicken, which barbecue maven Steve Raichlen says probably originated in Louisiana. J. Gumbo’s Drunken Chicken doesn’t involve a beer can, but it, too, involves simmering in alcohol. And it, too, too originates in Louisiana, where Billy Fox, Jr., founder of the New Orleans-inspired chain J. Gumbo’s, developed his recipe 20 years ago, in 1999. It’s a winning recipe, which isn’t surprising since Fox is a former thoroughbred jockey whose 5,785 mounts earned over seven million dollars during his career. Fox’s recipe for Drunken Chicken hits the tongue with a judicious tingle that lingers and lures you to keep grabbing bite after bite. The recipe, of course, is a well-guarded blend of spices that everyone would like to duplicate. In fact, it’s a tribute to the dish’s popularity that there are plenty of knock-off recipes online that claim to have captured its essence. Joseph Montgomery, co-owner of the J. Gumbo’s franchises on Grinstead Drive and Frankfort Avenue, knows this dish as well as anyone — and he’s completely dismissive of those efforts. Not likely, says he. “If there is somebody out there that has something that tastes like our Drunken Chicken, the’ve really got something!” Montgomery says the Drunken Chicken is the number one best seller at his restaurants. Most customer order it over rice. Some customers prefer it over macaroni. And a few regulars actually skip the bowl entirely, preferring it burrito-style, wrapped up with white bean chili, rice, cheese, and jalapeno. Either way, it’s a great dish for the season.

Buddha Bowl from V-Grits

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FOOD | six bowls

Buddha Bowl | V-Grits & False Idol Pho | Pho Ba Luu 1025 Barret Avenue | 742-1714

MJ • V-Grits started out as a food truck offering vegan comfort food. But in late 2018, when owner Kristina Addington decided to make the move from a truck to a full-blown bricks and mortar restaurant, her vision was to add healthy alternatives to the southern-style, deep fried dishes that had dominated her truck menu. That’s when her Buddha Bowl entered the picture. Addington says that although most buddha bowls feature Asian ingredients, she believes the name and the concept probably originated in the United States. “Buddha bowls have become really common as part of plant-based or vegan diets,” she explained. “They're called buddha bowls, because they're really full, round beautiful bowls and they're overflowing kind of like a Buddha’s belly. That is where the original name came from.” The V-Grits version of a buddha bowl features vegetables prepared in a variety of Asian techniques. The star of the dish is tofu prepared with Gochujang, a red chili paste found in Korean markets. The tofu is first cooked off, then marinated in the Gochujang and then fried. Then the bowl is enhanced with sesame-roasted broccoli, red cabbage, pickled veggies, rice wine-marinated cucumber, quinoa, pickled carrot and daikon, a Japanese radish, along with a carrot ginger miso dressing. V-Grits Executive Chef Zach Kerr told me, “We really wanted to stick with the Asian theme because we didn’t have a lot of things in the restaurant that focused on that. As a chef,” he continued, “the thing that really excites me about the Buddha Bowl is that anything goes. They are extremely versatile, and you can really adapt them as the seasons change or new ingredients become available.” In the V-Grits Buddha Bowl, it’s the lively interplay of sweet and savory ingredients that really sets the dish apart. On the day I visited, I loved the textures, flavors, and aroma of the sesame-roasted broccoli and the chili-inflected heat of the tofu. I’m not ready to give up my omnivorous ways, but this Buddha Bowl will definitely be an option when I’m in search of a healthy meal.

1019 E. Main Street | 384-6822

MJ • Pho, pronounced fuh, is a traditional Vietnamese soup consisting of broth, rice noodles, herbs, and meat. When Jessica Mach was growing up in Saigon, Pho was available from street vendors on every corner. But Mach’s favorite was the soup her mother made at home from a family recipe passed down through generations. That family recipe is the one Mach brought with her to America when she opened Pho Ba Luu with her partner Stewart Davis in 2016. In fact, the English translation of the restaurant’s name is “Mrs. Luu’s Noodle Soup.” Still, Mach acknowledges she did update her mother’s cooking process for her mother’s beef bone broth to meet the high volume at her restaurant. “With a steam kettle,” she says, “we can maximize all the flavor from that beef bone. We can put it on as long as we want and it doesn't burn,” she explained. “We use about 60 gallons of water to cook up to 120 pounds of meat bones and 50 pounds of brisket for two days. During the last 30 minutes of the process, we grill onions, ginger and herbs and add them to the pot to activate the fragrance.” It’s this cooking process that makes the flavor in Pho Ba Luu’s broth so intense and satisfying. One rainy day, F&D visited the restaurant and sampled the Beef Pho, which comes with thinly sliced rare steak and brisket in the beef broth. Mach said she cooks the streak and brisket rare because the meat continues to cook once it hits the hot broth. “You get tender steak that is cooked to the time that you eat,” she added. “My mom used to say, ‘We don’t eat a lot, so why don’t we treat ourselves really good. One bite should be worth taking a bite.’ That’s my mentality.”

Chili | Check’s Café 1101 E. Burnett Avenue | 637-9515 14049 Shelbyville Road | 244-6868

AR • The chili at Check’s has scarcely changed since the 1950s, says

Pho Ba Luu’s Pho

Check’s Cafe Chili

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six bowls | FOOD owner John Murrow. “I definitely don’t mess with the recipe,” he says. “It’s always been where you pile it as high as you can, and let the stuff run over the side... we just throw it in there and let it roll.” It’s a recipe as old as — if not older — than Check’s itself. “It’s my grandmother’s,” Murrow explains. His grandparents, Joe and Mary Murrow, bought the then-bar from Check Sumpter in the 1940s and soon began to fill it with his Mary’s cooking. Today, Check’s brings in customers from all over the city, including those from younger generations whose parents or grandparents grew up eating at Check’s. Of course the popular spot has undergone plenty of remodeling over the years, as well as the addition of a few TVs (“I’d add more if I could,” says Murrow, a self-proclaimed TV addict). But it has a laid-back, nofrills neighborhood vibe that seems rooted in its history. It’s the kind of place, says Murrow, where “you never know who you’re going to sit next to.” It seems like anytime you visit there’s a bustle of activity, conversation, and movement. Even when I dropped in for a late lunch almost every table was full and there was a long line to the counter. When you order a bowl of chili the friendly folks behind the counter dip a ladle into the large pot right in front of you and hand it over. In an age of neat, trendy portions, there’s something to be said for a bowl of chili so full that you have to maneuver carefully as you jostle through the crowd for fear of spilling your bowl of red. “Loaded,” the chili comes with the classics — cheese, onions, and spaghetti noodles. This chili goes down smooth, not too spicy but warm and filling. The onions and sprinkled cheddar cheese add an extra kick of flavor without overdoing it. It’s the perfect bowl for customers coming in from the winter cold and shedding their heavy coats – but Murrow says it’s always popular, no matter the season or the weather.

Beef Bulgogi | Ramen House 1250 Bardstown Road [Mid City Mall] | 709-4374

AR • “Whenever I play the game of, ‘if you had to eat one meal what

would it be?’, it would be that dish right there,” Chef Jon Ham explains. He’s talking about the beef bulgogi he serves at the new Ramen House in the Mid City Mall. When you taste it, it’s easy to understand why it’s one of our favorite bowls of the season here at F&D. It has a little of everything. Bulgogi (a Korean word that translates as “fire meat”) is marinated beef grilled on a stovetop. In the bowl, it’s complemented by kimchi and rice. From top to bottom, every bite is a fun blend of tastes and texture. First comes the beef — spicy and richly seasoned.Then the simple comfort of the rice. And finally, at the very bottom of the bite, you find the cool tang of the kimchi. It’s a dish that looks as good as it tastes, as colorful as it is flavorful. The Ramen House space is colorful as well. The room sports a mix of Asian-inspired art and delightful bursts of pop culture. On a recent visit, one server wore at least a dozen enamel pins featuring beloved animated characters — with the Japanese manga hero Naruto front and center. When you step into the restaurant, one wall holds a shelf covered in pop vinyl figures. And for those of us who love the whole manga scene, the finishing touch is great: the check is delivered to the table in the pages of a manga book. It’s hip. It’s fun. It’s now. And the Beef Bulgogi bowl fits right in. But it turns out the recipe is actually an old story for Chef Ham. “I grew up eating that dish,” he says. “My mom would make that for me.” And even ten years into his career as a chef, Ham says he still uses his mom’s recipe — though he adds, “I do put my own twist on it,” using traditional spices and ingredients like sesame oil or a bit of brown sugar to bring out a sweet note. The thing is, Ramen House may be named after the titular dish — but don’t discount the rice bowls. “People come for the ramen,” says Ham. “And then they see everything else on the menu and go ‘Oh, I have all these options,’” Ham explains. “It’s kind of an add-on at this point, but I do think there’s a market to do something bowlheavy, too.” And based on the Beef Bulgogi, I’d have to agree. F&D Beef Bulgogi from Ramen House

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profile | chilakiles

5600 National Turnpike, Louisville, KY 502.632.2000

BY ROGER BAYLOR & MICHAEL L. JONES PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

hese days, diners in every part of America have easy access to the familiar satisfactions of classic, well-prepared Tex-Mex cuisine. But even at its best and most authentic, Tex-Mex represents only a tiny fraction of Mexico’s rich culinary tradition. As in the U.S., the regional cuisines of Mexico are both wildly distinctive — and deeply connected. And these days, many Louisville diners who already love what they know of Mexican food are eager to seek out new culinary adventures. Happily, Louisville chefs and restaurateurs are eager and proud to share the foods they love — both dishes they grew up with and imaginative hybrids of tradition and innovation. When Roger Baylor and Michael Jones, longtime F&D contributors, set out on a quest to discover some of those regional cuisines, they turned up some gems. Michael’s journey took him to Mexico’s far southern reaches and the vibrant Oaxacan flavors created by two brothers who serve regional and family dishes at Chilakiles. In New Albany, Roger visited Chef Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet, where the cosmopolitan cuisine celebrates the sophistication of Mexico’s capital city as interpreted by the palate of a rigorously trained, imaginative chef. Then Roger’s roving palate led him to Mi Casita Parilla Mexicana, where brothers Hernández strive to replicate homemade contemporary coastal seafood dishes and dishes that reflect the ancient Mayan and Aztec traditions. 32 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

(from left) Ediberto Mendoza, Nestor Cruz, Gonzalo Cruz, Roberto Cruz

he Sierra Madre mountain ranges crisscross the state of Oaxaca in Southern Mexico, dividing it into regions with distinct climates and food cultures. This diversity led to the state becoming Mexico’s culinary capital. Oaxaca is celebrated for its beef, artisanal cheeses, and mole sauces, which are so varied that Oaxaca is also known as the “Land of the Seven Moles.” In 2010, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) identified the region’s cuisine as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Gonzalo Cruz, owner of Chilakiles Restaurant in South Louisville, grew up in Oaxaca de Juárez, the Mexican state’s capital. He and his brother Roberto learned to cook by watching their mother make Oaxaca staples in their home. Cruz admits his brother was more interested in the kitchen than he was, but Cruz still managed to pick up a few skills. After the brothers moved to Louisville in 2012, they were good enough to find work at a succession of topnotch restaurants – North End Café, Silver Dollar, and Con Huevos Restaurant. Cruz said one thing that bothered him about Louisville was the limited scope of Mexican cuisine being offered in local restaurants. In November 2018, he opened Chilakiles Mexican Restaurant in South Louisville, so he could share some of his favorite flavors from home. The restaurant’s name is a play on Chilaquiles, a dish of corn tortilla pieces that are fried, topped with tomatillo-based green or tomatobased red salsa, cheese, cream, and sliced raw onion. Chilaquiles are a popular Mexican breakfast item that probably originated as a way to use leftover tortillas. And chilaquiles and other breakfast items are a perfect component of Cruz’s menu because of the location, near several factories on National Turnpike. Cruz said the restaurant is popular with laborers who work split shifts — and crave breakfast at any time of the day, as well as culinary explorers who come in to sample a variety of Oaxacan dishes. “I wanted to break the stereotype of what traditional Mexican food is,” he explained. “Much of the Mexican food you see in this city is really Tex-Mex, and mostly the same dishes — tacos, tamales, and burritos. Chilakiles has lunch and

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dinner menus, but we serve breakfast all day with the sauces and other things authentic to Oaxaca.” Cruz leaves most of the cooking at Chilakiles to his brother Roberto, the executive chef. Their brother Nestor also works at the restaurant as a waiter and manager. Chilakiles offers several menu items that are unique to restaurants in the area. Chilakiles Suizos, for instance, offers two fried eggs with a creamy jalapeno-tomatillo sauce on a bed of corn tortilla chips – accompanied by queso fresco, cilantro and pickled red onions. Steak Oaxaqueño is a variation on a dish that originated in Cruz’s homeland that features an eight-ounce ribeye, topped with peppers, onions, tomatoes and jalapeno sauce, and caters to American tastes with sides of mashed potatoes and green beans. Notwithstanding Cruz’s focus on celebrating the littleknown aspects of his regional cuisine, he acknowledges that many of his customers — no matter which part of the world they call home — prefer to eat the comfort food they’ve become accustomed to. So one of the most popular dishes on the Chilakiles menu is the Buenos Dias Breakfast: bacon, eggs, hash browns and a pancake. On the other hand, an adventurous culinary explorer might check out the Strawberry Cream Keki, three housemade Tres Leches pancakes topped with whip cream and fresh strawberries that adds a luxurious note to the other breakfast offerings. “Everything we do, we try to make it special. But the customers just want good food,” Cruz said. “It doesn’t matter if it is breakfast or dinner.” Chilakiles offers fine mimosas and margaritas, but Cruz said he takes special pride in the Michelada, an amped-up version of the classic beer cocktail made with tomato or clamato juice, lime, various spices and sauces like black pepper, Worcestershire, and Tabasco, served in an enormous beer mug topped with cucumber, celery and cooked shrimp. Over the last year, thanks to word of mouth and a few rave reviews in local publications, Chilakiles has begun to expand its patronage beyond the nearby plant workers. Cruz said many visitors gravitate at first toward the more well-known Mexican dishes like the Chicken Enchiladas or the Chuletas al Pastor (grilled pork chops on a bed of vegetables and white rice). But even so, he said, many customers return to try out the more adventurous dishes. “I don’t know any restaurant that serves Chuletas al Pastor as we do with the grilled pineapple salsa, guajillo sauce, and pickled onions,” he said. “We come from a place where good food is a tradition. And we like to show it off a little bit.” (top) Chuletas al Pastor (grilled pork chop with a pineapple salsa and guajillo sauce). (center, from left) Chorizo huevos rancheros; shrimp ceviche. (right) Chilakiles Suizos (tortilla chips topped with a tomatillo sauce and sunny-side eggs). 33

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profile | israel’s delicias de mexico gourmet

a bed of rice and is buried beneath layers of black beans, chorizo, spinach, mushrooms and onions, sealed tight with melted mozzarella, studded with grilled shrimp and finally drenched with a rich brown Mayan-inspired sauce. Welcome to Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet in New Albany, where chef, owner and namesake Israel Landin merrily improvises on a theme of traditional Mexican cuisine, unafraid to reinterpret recipes and deconstruct preconceived notions. Landin’s back story is amazing, too. And for the record, Yolanda is his wife. Fifteen years ago, Israel Landin came to New Albany from Chicago, leaving behind a two-decade career as a food wholesaler rep. He 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN rented an unused corner space in a nondescript produce stand on the 812.725.9139 north side of town and debuted his very first taqueria, La Rosita. La Rosita was small, utilitarian and barely decorated, certainly not to mericans are accustomed to salesmanship, so a smidgen of skepbe confused with your grandad’s plasticized Chi’s Chi’s by the shopping ticism would be understandable when one menu-gazes at a mall. Landin, a native of Mexico City who’d been cooking since childMexican restaurant and confronts for the first time ever a dish hood, offered a basic menu of Mexican street food and promptly called Yolanda’s Amazing Chicken. found himself utterly baffled as one customer after another asked for Trust me, this chicken platter really is amazing, but you’ll have to do their food to be served “enchilada style.” some digging to reach the plump, juicy breast of chicken. It rests atop At first Landin had no idea what they meant, and he was surprised to learn that in Southern Indiana eatery dialect, “enchilada style” means “pour some red sauce over it.” This strange usage dates to the mid-1970s, when local entrepreneurs in New Albany created the first Tumbleweed, bringing us adapted Tex-Mex fare at a time when tacos still were crunchy school cafeteria food-fight ammunition and Corona was exported to America in brown bottles. Landin quickly realized he’d be teaching his patrons as much as cooking for them, and so one tasty bite at a time, folks like me began learning about the joys of torta lengua (beef tongue) and campechana (Mexico’s glorious take on the seafood cocktail). La Rosita was a delicious revelation, and by 2006 Landin had migrated his modest taqueria to larger digs in a 120year-old former neighborhood grocery on Market Street. The new La Rosita received rave reviews and was financially successful, so Landin expanded yet again with far bigger restaurant operations in New Albany and Louisville. Chef/Owner Israel Landin Unfortunately, those ventures turned out to be missteps that coincided with the Great Recession, and Landin lost it all, not to be seen in town for a while. Happily, in 2015 our prodigal adopted foodie son returned to the Market Street building uptown with a new name and a creative, chef-driven menu. I asked Landin to explain what has changed from his La Rosita days. “Just about everything,” he replied. “It’s completely different now. I’m working with gourmet techniques, more seafood and some Mayan dishes, and of course with my own touches. Day by day I come up with new dishes. Before we had mom-and-pop food, street food like Mexican homemade gorditas and pambazos. Now I want

(far left) Ceviche Tropical. (left) Camarones a la Diabla (shrimp in a creamy “Diablo Sauce” with grilled vegetables and rice).

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to focus more on gourmet Mexican cuisine.” For Landin, “gourmet” is a non-ironic, recurring adjective, embodying two key definitions. Landin’s ingredients must be of uniformly high quality, and their use remains subject to his kitchen skill-set and artistry as a chef. Authenticity matters, but his muse matters more. Prior to arriving in the United States in 1985, Landin worked in Mexico as a butcher. Then he relocated to Chicago, where he continued his culinary education by selling wholesale cheese, frozen foods, seafood and imported foods. Later Landin returned to Mexico for culinary coursework, making time to continue his education even during the peak of La Rosita’s popularity. He’d be gone for a while, then reappear with new spices, textures, discoveries and techniques. “I’m going to stick to what I’ve learned, to what I’ve always believed, that food is an art,” Landin told me. “You have to offer people what you think they can eat from the plate, not something that doesn’t look like food. If I can eat it, they’ll be able to eat it, and they’ll say ‘whoa — we’re happy we came to this place.’ ” As a case in point, consider Landin’s signature Holy Guacamole. He tops fresh avocado, onion and cilantro dip with diced mango and pineapple, chorizo and cubes of fresh white panela cheese. Ordinarily these items would be served in small bowls or on plates, like amuse-bouche. Landin thought to combine them, and it’s a new spin on an old favorite. Another example is Camarones a la Diabla (“devil’s shrimp”). At the La Rosita of old, Landin served this spicy staple somewhat in accordance with tradition. “In Mexico they’ll serve it to you with a dry red sauce, spicy with certain chiles,” he explained. “The way I do it now is with a creamy habanero sauce. It’s a step up in ingredients and presentation, and I make magic with them.” The same is true for Landin’s Camarones con Arroz, in which the rice receives equal billing with the shrimp. He combines regular and brown rice pilaf and couscous to conjure a creamy risotto-like mix, then uses a special sauté for the shrimp in this dish alone. I may be biased as a New Albany resident, but it’s clear that Israel Landin has taught a generation of diners first to appreciate the diversity of authentic Mexican cuisine (at La Rosita), and then at Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet to grasp the broader range of its possibilities when in the hands of a gifted chef. Perhaps the bond we feel with him stems from knowing that, from the start, we’ve been learning together.

(top) Yolanda’s Amazing Chicken. (center) Seafood burrito stuffed with grilled tilapia, squid, octopus, mussels, clams and shrimp. (right) Camarones con Arroz (shrimp in a creamy blend of pilaf, couscous and rice). (far right) Lengua (beef tongue) tacos 35

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520 S. Fourth St., Louisville, KY 502.315.0666 Pozole stew Mojarra (whole grilled tilapia)

Alejandro and Miguel Hernández

n a crisp autumn Thursday at lunchtime there was plenty of foot traffic on Fourth Street in Louisville, and more than a few downtowners were slipping into Mi Casita Parrilla Mexicana for a midday bite. Inside the eatery was warm, colorful and abuzz with activity. There were women in casual office attire, a halfdozen construction workers, a knot of men in expensive suits, and a police officer seated in the corner. Staffers were friendly and on task, hoisting platters of tacos, burritos and salads, stacking bagged carry-out orders and refilling drinks. Mi Casita has occupied this space for a decade, serving primarily workers at lunch, then catering more to out-oftown visitors in the evening. The Seelbach Hotel is next door, and Fourth Street Live mere steps down the street. Amid the bustle Miguel Hernández kept a watchful eye on the proceedings. With brother Alejandro, he owns and operates Mi Casita, which has a second location at 2060 S. Hurstbourne Parkway and a third coming soon to Shelbyville. The establishment has known multiple monikers. Until a few months ago Mi Casita (“my little house”) was called Mi Cocina (“my kitchen”) but unexpectedly, out-of-town lawyers became involved. “There is another restaurant in Dallas with the same name, and they sued us,” explained Hernández, “but it’s all okay. Now we use Mi Casita, but people don’t care about the name.They tell me all the time, ‘as long as you have the same food, we’ll keep coming, so don’t worry about the name.’ ” Hernández hails from Mexico City, and he studied in Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico. “We cooked lots of seafood on the coast,” Hernández told me, adding that he

Cochinita Pibil

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has always harbored a desire to be in the kitchen, and one thing led to another. “My passion is to cook for the people,” he said with a smile, and it’s a passion that led the youthful Hernández to Shelbyville, Kentucky in 1998. “We came to Kentucky to work for the Claudia Sanders restaurant, me and my brother, and we ran the place for 11 years,” recalled Hernández. “Then we decided to open a restaurant, and my brother said we’re Mexicans; we’ll have a Mexican restaurant. And we have all the family recipes, so this is not TexMex. This is authentic Mexican. We cook only homemade, from scratch.” Prior to my conversation with Hernández, I’d sampled Mi Casita’s fare, choosing a simple, light lunch, burrito carnitas filled with fried pork and served with rice and beans.The pork was tender, the tortilla fresh, and the humble sides — so often mere afterthoughts, left forlorn on the plate by disinterested diners — were outstanding, especially the rice, which had firm, distinct grains and subdued yet savory seasoning. Hernández beamed when I mentioned how good the rice tasted. “We’ve cooked our rice like this since my grandmom’s time, and my mom and sisters also. To do it right you have to use broth. We make lots of broth from scratch and use lots of broth in everything.” Hernández is proud of everything on Mi Casita’s menu, and he stresses unyielding fidelity to the family recipes and a patriotic commitment to authenticity. “I try to do something from all the different parts of Mexico,” he observed. “Mole Poblano is an Aztec dish, and

cochinita pibil is Mayan. Pescado zarandeado is from the Pacific.” Pibil comes from the Mayan word pib, meaning “buried,” referring to the method of preparing marinated meat (cochinita means “piglet”) by wrapping it in banana or plantain leaves and cooking in a pit oven — not feasible in a commercial kitchen, but the principle remains the same, and the meat has a balance of sweetness and spice. On Mexico’s Pacific coast, pescado zarandeado typically is huachinango (red snapper) continuously basted with chiles and spices while being grilled over mesquite. And what about the mole? “Ask everybody, and this is the best mole. Seven kinds of peppers, chocolate, cinnamon, fennel, sugar … it’s a lot of condiments and you have to know how to cook it.” Mi Cosita’s kitchen boasts a few “secret” herbs and spices, the use of which Hernández laughingly said he entrusts only to family members rather than other employees. Currently he’s teaching his nephew the tricks of the culinary trade in hope the restaurant will stay in the family. Even more importantly, Hernández is looking to hand down his own enthusiasm and passion. “You need to love what you do,” he said. “You can’t come in and just go to work.” When I asked Hernández to name a few dishes he particularly loves, he began with Cazuela de Mariscos, a “pot of seafood” originating around Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico, which he said is the choice of a group of convention customers from New York City and Seattle who return annually to Mi Casita to eat

mi casita | profile

this slow-cooked stew containing a bounty of fresh seafood that includes several types of fish along with shrimp, scallops, squid, mussels and octopus. Then there’s Mojarra, which strictly speaking refers to a family of saltwater fish. Freshwater tilapia look much the same, and accordingly, Mi Casita’s Mojarra is a whole grilled tilapia, ideal for shifting succulent chunks of fish onto tortillas and topping them with tomato, lettuce and homemade salsa. The Pozole Rojo served at Mi Casita is another stew, this one attributed to the Aztecs and made with hominy (a form of specially processed corn) and spiced with dried chiles. Pozole is a dish with an ancient, pre-Columbian heritage, but was modified after the Spanish Conquest of the Aztec Empire by the introduction of pork into South American cuisine. These days, pozole is often a fixture of holiday and weekend menus — and its chili-inflected heat is widely respected as an effective and essential hangover cure. Having a hangover remedy on the menu seems like an important customer amenity, given the extravagant glories of another dish on Mi Casita’s menu: —Charola Botanera! Charola means tray. Botanera is a red Mexican hot sauce. Here, the Charola is loaded up with six cans of Tecate or Corona or the beer of your choice, each of which is first topped with a beautifully grilled shrimp and a red drizzle of Botanera that drips down the side of the can. After that, the tray is filled with thick slices of cooling cucumbers, a mess of shrimp, another drizzle of Botanera, and a sprinkle of red spices. The only question I have about that dish is whether it’s an appetizer for one, or whether sharing was required... “The best part of the restaurant is you love whatever you do,” Hernández concluded. “Most important is when the customers come and say, ‘this is the best.’ It’s when they’re really happy, with the food and the drinks. That’s all we try to do here.” F&D

(far left, from top) Carne Azada Tacos (steak tacos); Cazuela de Mariscos (seafood stew of shrimp, scallops, fish, squid, mussels and octopus). (left) Charola Botanera. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2019 37

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profile | al hamra

or Louisville-area diners who’ve come to enjoy Arabic cuisine via

the menus served at gracious din-

ing venues like The Grape Leaf and wel-

coming,

reliably

fine

eateries

Jerusalem Kitchen, Alwatan, Safier, and others too numerous to count, the recent opening of Al Hamra in the MidCity Mall feels like a major reset. Many of us have been exploring this rich and varied culinary tradition one menu listing per meal, torn between the familiar delights of already known dishes and the allure of a new discovery. That dilemma will never arise at Al Hamra, which describes itself as a “Halal Buffet.” Before we go on, let’s note that this word buffet needs a bit of a reset, too. In standard American usage, “buffet” has come to signal cheap dining with an emphasis on quantity over quality. But the idea of offering diners a wide array of food and inviting them to graze at will is actually rooted in the history of opulent courtly buffets in Europe, generous smorgasbords of Sweden, and the gracious hospitality traditions of the Middle East. And it’s that latter tradition that drives the offerings at Al Hamra, where the rich, colorful array of offerings smacks of what you might expect to find at a celebratory feast in the Palestinian homeland of ChefOwner Ibrahim Qasim and his brother and Co-Chef Ayed Quasim. BY MARTY ROSEN PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

38 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

(from left) Chef/Owner Ibrahim Qasim with his brother Chef Ayed Qasim

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profile | al hamra halal The sheer number and variety of dishes is a bit staggering. And that is the point. As cookbook author Reem Kassim writes in The Palestinian Table, “When Palestinians have guests over or a large gathering, the number and variety of dishes also increases dramatically.” Think of your visit to Al Hamra — where the service always seems warm and helpful — as if you were a guest at a gathering. On my visits I’ve seen strangers chatting to one another as they gaze at the array of dishes, sharing advice, pointing out this or that favorite. The only thing Al Hamra lacks in that regard is a large communal shared table to supplement the existing comfortable booths.

Dozens of Tempting Dishes

Every time I walk into Al Hamra I note the mingled aromas of herbed spices, grilled meats, and simmering soups and sauces. Every day, Al Hamra serves something close to fifty different dishes — stews, roasted lamb, grilled chicken, a host of salads and dips, fresh fruits, two or three desserts. Some items show up every day — the roasted lamb, for instance, and classics like hummus and baba ganouj. But at least a third of the offerings rotate in and out on a daily basis. And, as you’ll read in a moment, there are some items on this menu that are vanishingly rare in our part of the world. These are dishes bursting with color and texture. In one tray, baba ghanouj the color of light sand is dotted with translucent green pools of olive oil, purple mounds of ground sumac, and stripes of chopped red onions, green and yellow peppers. Next to it, chickpeas and green herbs are scattered atop smoked eggplant glowing like reddish cobblestones in a Van Gogh street scene. Green leaves of spicy arugula mingle with slices of red onion and freshly chopped tomatoes. House-made meatballs swim in cream-colored tahini sauce or rich red sauces near a purple tray of red cabbage. Even the beautiful arrays of carved carrots, yellow squash and green zucchini have an artful look about them. This is serious, chef-driven cookery by two very focused, very expert brothers whose temperaments and experiences are quite different, but who have come together to create a restaurant that merits attention. One Saturday morning, I joined Ibrahim and Ayed in the kitchen to watch them work. On this day, Ibrahim was tending to the hot dishes and Ayed to the cold. Their styles were studies in contrasts. Chef Ibrahim started cooking as a young lad in an agricultural village west of Ramalla in Palestine. Back then, he (top) Chef Ayed Qasim tends the stove. (center, top) Chef Ibrahim Qasim prepares one of 52 dishes for the day’s menu. (center, bottom) A tray of baklava dusted with pistachio. (left) A bowl of lentil soup. (opposite page, clockwise from top left) Baba ghanouj, spicy hummus, vegetables with herbs, fattoush salad, spicy chicken, beef kabobs. 40

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said, he didn’t harbor dreams of becoming a chef. In fact, he had planned a career in engineering and earned a degree in the field at the University of Kentucky. In Lexington, he started cooking for his classmates, and eventually it became a weekend routine for him to prepare full meals for his social circle. He experimented not only with Arabic cuisine, but with cookery from everywhere, and though he’s now focused on foods from the Middle East, his culinary knowledge is unbounded by geography or tradition. Chef Ayed, on the other hand, has spent a couple of decades building a culinary career in restaurants deeply steeped in the various traditions of the Middle East, where experienced diners distinguish between the foods of, say, Egypt and Lebanon, in much the same way we routinely distinguish between the cuisines of any two countries in Europe.

Precision and exuberance in the kitchen

In the kitchen, Chef Ibrahim exhibits both the rigorous organizational mind of an engineer and the uninhibited exuberance of an artist. That morning, he started with nothing on the stove. A couple of hours later he was testing the chronological capacities of his Apple Watch while tending — solo — to more than two dozen simmering kettles plus roasters and skillets. He never seemed even slightly hurried, but he was never motionless even for a moment, always meticulous in his work and timing. But when it came to building flavors, Ibrahim was as flamboyant as can be. This day his menu included a saucy Palestinian take on Kebda (chicken livers). He tasted them, contemplated, and offered me a spoonful. Then he added an unmeasured but very generous dose of dangerously red spices, stirred things around and offered me another spoon — and a bright spicy fire lit up my morning. Ayed, on the other hand, brings a quiet, jovial placidity to his work. He tinkers delicately with the seasonings. And he has a keen eye for texture and design. Some of his fin-

(top) A plate of grilled chicken, tomatojalapeno salad, chickpeas with spinach and green fava beans. (center) A plate of meatballs in tahini sauce, stuffed grape leaf and musakaa (eggplant). (left) A plate of beef and chicken kabobs, seasoned rice and stewed okra. 42

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ciao ristorante al hamra | profile ished products have the geometric order of a mosaic, some are whimsically decorated with characters in English or Arabic that represent the dish or celebrate the restaurant itself. Both chefs love talking about food. I asked both of them about hummus, and both gave me the sort of culinary lecture I’d expect if I had asked a French chef to discourse on the nuances of the Mother Sauces. Ibrahim talked to me about the textural nuances of salt and lemon. Ayed spoke about the magic of hand and eye, technique and feel. Ibrahim’s dream at Al Hamra is both to

Roasted Lamb: Every Day a Feast

Some offerings at Al Hamra are not intuitive at all. For instance, as you rove the offerings, you will certainly discover the succulent roast lamb that is always on offer. On its own, or accompanied by some spicy potatoes, rice, and vegetables, that is a wonderful dish. But it’s also the centerpiece for a classic West Bank special occasion dish. Look around the buffet, and you will find a vat with the label Mansaf Soup. In that vat you will find a white sauce that some books on Arabic cookery call

might or might not note the hints of cardamom and cinnamon, but they are there. Chef Ibrahim’s kitchen is stocked with 40 or 50 different spices and each one is in use. In his kitchen, his go-to base for many stews and sauces is a house-made tomato stock that tastes like the simplest, purest possible expression of its source. From that base he builds the variously flavored sauces for both vegetarian and meat-based dishes — zucchini stuffed with rice or ground lamb. Another array of items are served in a classic tahini sauce. The chefs are rigorous about replacing

(above) Roasted lamb. (above, right) Mansaf (a traditional lamb dish for special occasions).

create a space where the local Arab community can gather around traditional dishes and to introduce this cuisine to those of us who have never experienced its full range. The price ($16) is remarkable when compared with typical Louisville restaurant prices for an entrée with sides. And it’s designed to lure diners interested in exploring. Part of experiencing this food is figuring out how to structure a meal, pair elements, and arrange a plate.To some extent that’s intuitive, and a diner can’t really go wrong. So what’s important here, especially on a first visit, is just to slow down and think mindfully about plating and sequence. For our photoshoot, Chef Ibrahim assembled several plates of dishes that go well together. Think of these photos as not just beautiful ornaments, but very good advice. And if you ask for advice, you may find yourself with one of the chefs or enthusiastic servers handing you things to sample.

jameed. Jameed is made from dried fermented yogurt and has a unique tangy intensity unlike anything else. In Zaitoun: Recipes from the Palestinian Kitchen, author Yasmin Khan writes that Mansaf is a “celebratory dish” rooted in Bedouin cuisine that’s typically featured at weddings and major feasts. On those occasions, a platter filled with spiced rice and lamb is drizzled with the cooked yogurt sauce, and shared at a communal table layered with flatbreads (there is a conveyor belt toaster on which diners can heat up their own pita). On occasion, Chef Ibrahim says, the restaurant serves the dish for groups in that traditional manner. But you can easily replicate the dish — if not the experience — on your own plate. Of course, the lamb doesn’t need that treatment. On its own, it expresses the essence of this cuisine. Its texture is luxurious and its flavor is a subtle mix of spices as finely balanced as an acrobat on a high wire. You

foods that sit for a while on the buffet, and part of Ibrahim’s strategy with many dishes is to garnish them with herbs or diced aromatics to preserve texture and moisture. Nearly every item on the menu shows up in multiple hot and cold contexts. A person could make a banquet from eggplant alone. On any given day there will be several approaches to chicken, and though there’s usually only a single fish dish, it’s a quite nice take on red snapper. For that matter, a person could easily create a satisfying meal without ever departing from the salad selection, starting with the multiple takes on hummus and baba ghanouj. On the other hand, I wouldn’t recommend skipping the lovely array of house-made pastries, sweet, flaky baklava, turnovers and the like. Those, along with a cup of stout Turkish coffee make for a fine ending to a memorable meal. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2019 43

dining guide

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Cuisine Style

African..............................69 Asian/Chinese..................70 Asian/Filipino....................71 Asian/Japanese. ..............71 Asian/Korean ...................72 Asian/Thai........................72

Asian/Vietnamese ............72 Bar & Grill/Taphouse........66 Barbecue .........................62 Bistro/New American .......50 Burgers/Chicken ..............55 Cafés ...............................56 Cafeterias/Buffet ..............66 Cajun/Creole....................73 Casual Dining ..................58 Coffee/Tea Houses ..........81 Cuban/Caribbean.............73

Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

211 Clover Lane 21st Amendment Tavern 321 Deli 4 Seasons Restaurant 410 Bakery 502 Bar & Bistro 610 Magnolia 78 Coffee Shop 80/20 @ Kaelin's 888 Great Wall 8th Street Pizza 8UP Drinkery A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Abyssinia Á-Châu Restaurant Addis Grill Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne's Italian Africa House Against The Grain Aji Sushi and Asian Cuisine Al Hamra Halal Buffet Aladdin's Mediterranean Alchemy Restaurant Alex&nder Alley Cat Café Alwatan Restaurant American Smokehouse Stadium Amici Angilo's Pizza Angio's Italian Restaurant Annie Café Annie May's Sweets Café Annie's Pizza Anoosh Bistro Another Place Sandwich Shop Apna Café Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee's Arata Sushi The Arctic Scoop Arni's Pizza Arno's Pizza Aroma Café Art Eatables Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Wok Aspen Creek Restaurant Aspire Café At the Italian Table Atlantic No. 5 Atrium Café August Moon B.J.'s Restaurant & Brewhouse B3Q BBQ Babie Bac'z Good Grill Baby Mae's Back Yard Burger Bandido Taqueria Mexicana Bar Vetti Baraka Restaurant Barrelhouse on Market Barry's Cheesesteaks Baxter's 942 Bean Bean Street Café Bearno's Beef O'Brady's Bella Italia Bella Roma Bella's Diner Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Ben's BBQ Big Momma's Soul Kitchen Biscuit Belly Bistro 42 Bistro Le Relais Bitters End Blackbeard Espresso Blackstone Grille Blaze Fast Fire'd Pizza Blind Squirrel Blue Dog Bakery Blue Horse Café Bluegrass Brewing Company Bob's Steak & Chop House Bombay Grill Bonefish Grill Bonnie & Clyde's Pizza

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 48 54 62 76 79 50 48 81 55 70 60 48 58 70 69 72 69 79 74 69 68 71 76 76 76 50 56 76 62 74 60 74 72 80 60 51 62 75 68 58 71 80 60 60 56 80 71 70 70 58 56 74 56 56 70 66 62 62 62 55 76 74 69 66 63 66 81 81 60 66 74 74 64 66 62 65 58 74 73 66 81 48 60 58 56 56 68 53 75 52 60

MAP #

Fine Dining 3 Gastropub 13 Deli / Sandwich 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 11 Desserts / Bakery 14 Bistro / New American 8 Fine Dining 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Burgers / Chicken 2 Asian / Chinese 8 Pizza 14 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian / Chinese 1 African 1 Asian / Vietnamese 13 African 1 Desserts / Bakery 14, 16 European / Italian 16 African 12 Microbreweries 1 Asian / Japanese 11 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 14 Latin American 1 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Barbecue 16 European / Italian 13 Pizza 13 European / Italian 4 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Desserts / Bakery 3 Pizza 9,12 Bistro / New American 7 Deli / Sandwich 1 Indian 8 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 11,12,13,14,15 Asian / Japanese 10 Desserts / Bakery 5 Pizza 14 Pizza 4 Cafes 14 Desserts / Bakery 1 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Chinese 14 Asian / Chinese 2 Casual Dining 3,11 Cafes 1 European / Italian 2 Cafes 1 Cafes 5 Asian / Chinese 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Barbecue 14 Barbecue 12 Barbecue 14 Burgers / Chicken 6 Mexican 1,13 European / Italian 1 African 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1,13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Pizza [14] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5,3,14 European / Italian 16 European / Italian 14 Diner / Home Style 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Barbecue 16 Southern / Soul Food 9 Casual Dining 1,3 European / Italian 10 European / French 4 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 3,5,8,15 Casual Dining 5 Cafes 2 Cafes 13 Microbreweries 1 Steakhouse 1 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12

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Indian ...............................75 Latin American .................76 Mediterranean/Mid East...76 Mexican ...........................76 Microbreweries ................68 Pizza ................................60 Seafood ...........................52 Southern/Soul Food.........65 Southwest/Tex Mex..........79 Steakhouse......................53 Upscale Casual................48

Deli/Sandwich ..................62 Desserts/Bakery ..............79 Diner/Home Style.............64 Entertainment Dining .......69 European/French .............73 European/German ...........73 European/Irish .................73 European/Italian...............74 European/Spanish ...........75 Fine Dining.......................48 Gastropub ........................54

RESTAURANT

Book & Bourbon Southern Kitchen Boombozz Pizza & Watch Bar Boomer's Café Boomtown Bootleg Barbecue Co. Borromeo's Pizza & Italian Borsalino Café & Deli Boudreaux's Cajun Cooking Boudreaux's Sno-Balls Boujie Biscuit Bourbon Raw Bourbon's Bistro Bramble Brasserie Provence Bravo! Brazeiros Churrascaria Breadworks Brendon's Catch 23 Brian's Deli Brick House Tavern + Tap Bridge and Barrel Bristol Bar & Grille Brix Wine Bar Brooke & Billy’s Brooklyn & The Butcher Brownie's 'The Shed' Bruegger's Bagels Bubba's 33 Buca Di Beppo Buckhead Mountain Grill Buck's Bud's Tavern & Barbecue Buffalo Wild Wings Bungalow Joe's Bar & Grill Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burger Girl Butcher Block Eatery at High Horse Butcher's Best Butchertown Grocery Butchertown Grocery Bakery The Butchertown Social Café 157 Café 223 Café 360 Café Aroma Café Magnolia Café On Meigs Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico California Pizza kitchen Cancún Captain Ville Captain's Quarters Riverside Grille Carali's Rotisserie Chicken Cardinal Hall Of Fame Café Caribbean Café Carrabba's Italian Grill Caspian Grill Persian Café Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Catfish Haven Restaurant Cattleman's Roadhouse Cellar Door Chocolates Chamling Kitchen & Bar Champions Grille Charcoal Charlestown Pizza Co. Charr'd Bourbon Kitchen Check's BBQ & Blues Check's Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar's Scratch Kitchen Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Chef's Cut Pizzeria Chicago Steak & Lemonade The Chicken House Chicken King Chik'n & Mi Chilakiles Oaxacan Breakfast Chili's China 1 China Bistro China Buffet China Café China Castle China Chef China Coast China Dragon China Garden China Inn

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 65 60 56 58 62 60 56 73 80 58 48 51 65 73 48 54 80 48 63 58 51 48 51 58 54 66 63 66 74 58 48 66 55 66 55 64 64 66 63 51 80 66 56 56 56 77 58 56 72 56 60 77 52 58 76 58 73 74 76 54 63 52 54 80 75 58 76 60 49 62 64 57 58 70 49 60 63 55 55 72 77 59 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70

MAP #

Southern / Soul Food 13 Pizza 2,5,6,15 Cafes 1 Casual Dining 14 Barbecue 11 Pizza 13 Cafes 4 Cajun / Creole 5 Desserts / Bakery 5 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 1 Bistro / New American 2 Southern / Soul Food 1 European / French 5 Upscale Casual 3 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 2,5,7 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Casual Dining 6 Bistro / New American 16 Upscale Casual 1,2,5 Bistro / New American 8 Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6,14 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 European / Italian 6 Casual Dining 4,16 Fine Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,6,8,11,12,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Burgers / Chicken 2 Diner / Home Style 13 Diner / Home Style 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Deli / Sandwich 10 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Cafes 14 Cafes 16 Cafes 2 Mexican 2 Casual Dining 1 Cafes 16 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Cafes 2 Pizza 5 Mexican 5 Seafood 9 Casual Dining 10 Latin American 1,6 Casual Dining 13 Cuban / Caribbean 2 European / Italian 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 16 Deli / Sandwich 1 Seafood 12 Steakhouse 6,13 Desserts / Bakery 1,2 Indian 4 Casual Dining 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 Pizza 16 Upscale Casual 6 Barbecue 5 Diner / Home Style 13 Cafes 3 Casual Dining 8,13,15 Asian / Chinese 1 Upscale Casual 3 Pizza 5 Deli / Sandwich 9,12,13 Burgers / Chicken 14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Casual Dining 2,4,5,8,12,13,15 Asian / Chinese 3,5 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 8,13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 13

RESTAURANT

China King China Star China Taste Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Choi's Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopsticks Chopsticks House Christi's Café Chubby Ray's Louisville Pizza Co. Chung King Palace Chuy's Ciao City Barbecue City Café Clarksville Seafood Clay Oven Clifton Donuts Clucker's Wings Coals Artisan Pizza Coconut Beach Tacos Coffee Crossing The Coffee Zone Cold Smoke Bagels Cold Stone Creamery Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Common Table Con Huevos CoreLife Eatery Corner Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Couvillion Cox's Hot Chicken Crave Café & Catering Cravings Ala Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Crème De Lou Crescent Hill Craft House Cricket's Café Crystal's Southern Food & Spirits Cuba y Mas Culver's Cunningham's Creekside Cup of Joy Cuvée Wine Table D. Nalley's Daddy Rich's Daisy Mae's Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat's Gateaux & Bakery Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac's Pasta & Pizza Dasha Barbours Bistro Dave & Buster's Dave & Peg's Copper Kettle Day's Espresso Decca Denny's Derby Café Express Derby City Pizza Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Diamond Pub & Billiards Diamond Street Grub & Hops Difabio's Casapela Dino's Dino's Bakery DiOrio's Pizza & Pub Dish On Market District 6 Ditto's Grill Divine Treats Dixie Chicken Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow's Donum Dei Brewery Double Dogs Double Dragon Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon II Down One Bourbon Bar Downtowner Deli Dragon Café Dragon King's Daughter Drake's Dundee Tavern East Star Buffet Eat A Pita Eatz Vietnamese Restaurant Eddie Merlot's Eggs Over Frankfort Ehrler's Ice Cream Eiderdown El Caporal El Mariachi El Molcajete El Mundo El Nopal El Rinconcito El Rio Grande El Sabor de Cuba El Sinaloa Mexican Restaurant El Sombrero El Taco Loco El Taco Luchador El Tarasco El Torazo El Toro Cantina & Grill El Vaquero Endless Summer Coffee Company The English Grill Equus & Jack's Restaurant Exchange Pub + Kitchen Executive Bistro The Falafel House Falafel Oasis Falls City Taproom Family Ties Famous Dave's Fante's Coffee Farm to Fork Café Fat Jimmy's FDKY BBQ Feast BBQ Fiesta Mexicana Fiesta Time Amigos Fiesta Time Mexican Grill

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 70 70 70 70 77 71 70 70 70 57 60 70 79 74 62 57 52 75 80 55 60 77 81 81 63 80 74 80 59 77 59 54 57 64 64 73 55 57 66 57 80 54 57 65 76 55 53 57 51 64 55 65 75 80 63 60 65 69 64 81 49 59 57 60 69 80 66 66 74 55 80 60 51 54 51 80 55 55 49 68 59 70 70 70 54 63 70 71 66 66 70 76 73 54 51 80 73 77 77 77 77 77 76 77 73 77 77 77 77 77 78 78 78 81 48 49 54 64 76 76 66 55 62 81 57 60 62 62 78 78 78

MAP #

Asian / Chinese 4,6 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 16 Asian / Chinese 12 Mexican 1,2,5,8 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 1 Asian / Chinese 9,13 Cafes 12 Pizza 6 Asian / Chinese 1 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,15 European / Italian 2 Barbecue 5 Cafes 13 Seafood 15 Indian 5 Desserts / Bakery 2 Burgers / Chicken 14,16 Pizza 3,5,13 Mexican 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Deli / Sandwich 1 Desserts / Bakery 6,16 European / Italian 1 Desserts / Bakery 2,5,13 Casual Dining 9 Mexican 1,2,8 Casual Dining 15 Gastropub 1 Cafes 5 Diner / Home Style 5 Diner / Home Style 13 Cajun / Creole 13 Burgers / Chicken 16 Cafes 2 Cafeterias / Buffet 1 Cafes 14 Desserts / Bakery 1 Gastropub 2 Cafes 15 Southern / Soul Food 6 Latin American 11 Burgers / Chicken 6,13,15 Seafood 10 Cafes 9 Bistro / New American 8 Diner / Home Style 1 Burgers / Chicken 1 Southern / Soul Food 14 Indian 11 Desserts / Bakery 13 Deli / Sandwich 3 Pizza 2 Southern / Soul Food 1,2 Entertainment Dining 3 Diner / Home Style 5 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 3,13 Cafes 13 Pizza 2,12,13 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2,3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 4 Desserts / Bakery 9 Pizza 2,3 Bistro / New American 1 Gastropub 3 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 15 Burgers / Chicken 9,12,13 Burgers / Chicken 1 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 11 Casual Dining 5 Asian / Chinese 9,2 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 8,11,12,13 Gastropub 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Asian / Chinese 10 Asian / Japanese 2,14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3,8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Steakhouse 1 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 European / German 13 Mexican 4,6 Mexican 5 Mexican 13 Mexican 2 Mexican [22] Latin American 11 Mexican 5 Cuban / Caribbean 13 Mexican 14 Mexican 16 Mexican 13 Mexican 1,2,3,6,13 Mexican 3,5,13 Mexican 6 Mexican 5 Mexican 11 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 3 Gastropub 14 Diner / Home Style 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 9 Barbecue 6 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 9 Pizza 5 Barbecue 6 Barbecue 1,6 Mexican 4 Mexican 5,11 Mexican 8

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RESTAURANT

Firehouse Subs Firenza First String Bar & Grill First Watch First Wok The Fish House The Fishery Five Guys Burgers Flanagan's Ale House Flat 12 Bierwerks Flo’s House of Soul Flora Kitchenette Floyd County Brewing Co. Foko Fork & Barrel Fort Knockers Mess Hall Forty Acres & A Mule Restaurant Four Kings Café Four Pegs Beer Lounge Franco's Restaurant Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot Frank's Meat & Produce Frontier Diner Fuji Asian Bistro Fuji Japanese Steakhouse Full Stop Filling Station Funmi's African Restaurant Galan's Meat Market & Deli Galan's Meat Market & Grille Galaxie Galley at Goodwood Game Gander, An American Grill Garage Bar Gasthaus Gatsby's On Fourth Gelato Gilberto Geraldine's Kitchen Gerstle's Place Get It On a Bun at Booty's Gigi's Cupcakes Ginza Asian Bistro Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Star Chinese The Golden Wall Goodwood Brewhouse & Live Room Goose Creek Diner Gordon Biersch Brewery Gracious Plenty The Grain Haus Gralehaus Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grassa Gramma Gravely Brewing Co. Great American Grill Great Wall Great Wok Green District Salads Green Leaf Natural Vegetarian Bistro Griff's Grind Burger Kitchen Growler USA Guaca Mole Gustavo's Mexican Grill Guy Fieri's Smokehouse Gypsy's Sports Grille H. M. Frank's Habana Blues Tapas The Hall on Washington Hammerheads Happy China Happy Dragon Hard Rock Café Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q Harrods Creek Tavern Harvest Harvey’s Cheese Havana Bakery Café Havana Rumba Havana Rumba & Tapas Haymarket Bistro Heart & Soy Hearth on Mellwood Heine Brothers' Coffee Heitzman Bakery & Deli Hell or High Water Hibachi Buffet Hibachi Sushi Buffet Hi-Five Doughnuts Highland Coffee Co. Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Highview Ice Cream & Coffee Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hillcrest Tavern Hilltop Tavern Himalayan Restaurant Hitching Post Inn Holy Grale Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que Home Run Burgers Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Pizza Honey Crème Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Fast Food Hooked on Frankfort Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters HopCat Hosanna's Kitchen Hot Box Eatery Howl at the Moon Hungry Pelican IHOP Imanka Restaurant Indi's Restaurant International Tap House The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza Israel’s Delicias de Mexico Gourmet J. Alexander's Redlands Grill J. Graham's Café J. Gumbo's J. Harrod's Jack Binion's Steakhouse Jack Fry's Jade Palace

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 63 60 59 59 70 53 53 55 66 68 65 80 68 78 49 66 66 65 54 66 62 63 65 71 71 57 69 63 73 54 62 59 59 51 73 59 80 65 67 55 80 71 70 66 70 70 67 65 68 57 60 54 67 76 74 69 67 70 70 59 59 67 55 67 78 78 62 67 54 73 54 51 70 70 52 62 59 49 63 73 73 73 57 71 52 81 80 67 70 70 80 81 57 67 81 71 53 67 67 75 67 52 62 55 80 60 80 63 70 53 67 55 67 65 57 69 53 59 69 55 67 73 60 78 49 57 73 49 54 48 70

MAP #

Deli / Sandwich 5,11 Pizza 5 Casual Dining 13 Casual Dining 3,5,6,15 Asian / Chinese 12 Seafood 2,5 Seafood 11 Burgers / Chicken 3,5,8,11,14 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Microbreweries 16 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 2 Microbreweries 14 Mexican 1 Upscale Casual 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Southern / Soul Food 13 Diner / Home Style 4 Gastropub 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Barbecue 3 Deli / Sandwich 13 Diner / Home Style 12 Asian / Japanese 12 Asian / Japanese 8 Cafes 1 African 4 Deli / Sandwich 9 Cuban / Caribbean 9 Gastropub 1 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 5 Bistro / New American 1 European / German 7 Casual Dining 1 Desserts / Bakery 8 Diner / Home Style 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Burgers / Chicken 14 Desserts / Bakery 6,8 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Chinese 13 Cafeterias / Buffet 4,12,13,15 Asian / Chinese 13 Asian / Chinese 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Diner / Home Style 8 Microbreweries 1 Cafes 2,10 Pizza 14 Gastropub 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 European / Italian 7 Microbreweries 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Asian / Chinese 2 Asian / Chinese 13 Casual Dining 1,3 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Burgers / Chicken 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Mexican 5 Mexican 8,10 Barbecue 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Gastropub 16 Cuban / Caribbean 14 Gastropub 1 Bistro / New American 1 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Bistro / New American 1 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 10 Upscale Casual 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Cuban / Caribbean 11 Cuban / Caribbean 5 Cuban / Caribbean 2 Cafes 1 Asian / Japanese 2 Bistro / New American 2 Coffee / Tea Houses [16] Desserts / Bakery 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Chinese 12 Asian / Chinese 11,13 Desserts / Bakery 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 2,3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 11 Asian / Japanese 1,5 Seafood 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Indian 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 11 Bistro / New American 2 Barbecue 13 Burgers / Chicken 5,6,13 Desserts / Bakery [8] Pizza 7 Desserts / Bakery 14 Deli / Sandwich 3,11,14 Asian / Chinese 13 Seafood 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Burgers / Chicken 3,13,12,15,16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Diner / Home Style 9 Cafes 1 Entertainment Dining 1 Seafood 11 Casual Dining 6,15 African 1 Burgers / Chicken [8] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Irish 2 Pizza 13 Mexican 14 Upscale Casual 3 Cafes 1 Cajun / Creole 2,6 Upscale Casual 10 Steakhouse 14 Fine Dining 2 Asian / Chinese 5

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RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Jasmin Bakery 80 Jasmine 70 Jasmine Asian Bistro 70 Jason's Deli 63 Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse 54 Jeff's Bakery 80 Jeff's Burger Shack 56 Jersey Mike's Subs 63 Jersey's Café 67 Jerusalem Kitchen 76 Jets Pizza 60 Jimmy John's Sub Shop 63 Joe Huber Restaurant 69 Joella's Hot Chicken 56 Joe's Crab Shack 53 Joe's Older than Dirt 59 John O'Bryan's Tavern 67 Johnny Brusco's Pizza 60 The Joy Luck 70 J-Town Beach 67 Jucy's Smokehouse 62 Jumbo Buffet 70 Juno 71 JW Café & Bakery 57 Kai Lana Sushi 71 Kansai Japanese Steakhouse 71 Karem's 59 Kashmir Indian 75 Kathmandu Kitchen and Bar 75 Kayrouz Café 57 Kentucky Taco Company 78 Kern's Korner 67 Kevin's Picnic 57 Khalil's 67 Kim & Bab 72 King Donuts 80 KingFish 53 King's Fried Chicken 56 Kobe Japanese Steak 71 Kolkin Coffee 81 Koreana II 72 L & J Asian Cuisine 70 La Bonita Tienda Mexicana 78 La Catrina Mexican Kitchen 78 La Chapinlandia 78 La Chasse 48 La Guanaquita 76 La Hacienda Guadalajara 78 La Lupita 78 La Peche 57 La Popular 78 La Que 73 La Riviera Maya 78 La Rosita Taqueria 78 La Sierra 78 La Suerte 78 78 La Torta Loca La Tropicana 78 Lady Tron's 63 Las Americas Mexican Restaurant 78 Las Gorditas 78 Las Margaritas Mexican Cuisine 78 L'bads Ice Cream Parlor 80 Le Moo 54 Le Petit Café 57 Lee's Korean 72 Lemongrass Restaurant 73 Lenny's Sub Shop 63 Levee at River House 52 Liège & Dairy Ice Cream + Waffles 80 Lil' Wagners 65 Lilly's 48 Limòn y Sal 78 Ling Ling 70 Little Caesar's Pizza 60 Little Greek Fresh Grill 76 Liu's Garden 70 Logan's Roadhouse 54 Lola's Kitchen 71 Longboard's Taco & Tiki 78 Longhorn Steakhouse 54 Lonnie's Best Taste Of Chicago 64 Los Aztecas 78 Lotsa Pasta 64 Lou Lou Food + Drink 52 Louie's Hot Chicken & Barbecue 62 Louisville Café India 75 Louisville Cream 80 Louisville International Pub 67 Louisville Tea Co. 81 Louisville Vegan Foods 64 Louvino 52 Lucky Burrito 78 Lucretia's Kitchen 66 Lueberry Acai & Superfoods 80 Luigi's 60 Luna's Rotisserie 78 M+A+F Gallery & Café 81 Ma Zerella's 60 Maa Sha Allah 69 Mack Bros BBQ 62 Mac's Dough House 60 Main Eatery 64 Main Event Bar & Grill 69 Maira Mediterranean Grill 76 Mai's Thai Restaurant 72 Mama's Kitchen Carryout 66 Mango's Bar & Grill 78 Manhattan Grill 64 The Manhattan Project 54 Marco's Pizza 60 Mark T's Slabhouse 62 Marketplace Restaurant 49 Mark's Feed Store 62 Martini Itialian Bistro 74 Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint 62 Masa Japanese 71 Masala Grill 76 Mattie's Kitchen 66 Mayan Café 78 McAlister's Deli 64 McQuixote Books & Coffee 81 Melrose Café 57 The Melting Pot 50 Mercato Italiano 74 Merle's Whiskey Kitchen 52 Mesa 69 Mesh 50 Metro Diner 65 Mexa Tacos 78 Mexico City Tacqueria and Restaurant 78

MAP #

Desserts / Bakery 4 Asian / Chinese 5 Asian / Chinese 7 Deli / Sandwich 3,5 Steakhouse 1 Desserts / Bakery 14,16 Burgers / Chicken 12 Deli / Sandwich 5,8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 15 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Pizza 2,3,5,8,11 Deli / Sandwich [11] Entertainment Dining 14 Burgers / Chicken 3,5 Seafood 1 Casual Dining 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Pizza 8 Asian / Chinese 2,8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 6 Barbecue 5 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Japanese 13 Cafes 5 Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 6,15 Casual Dining 8 Indian 2 Indian 4 Cafes 3 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Cafes 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 12 Asian / Korean 14 Desserts / Bakery 5 Seafood 7,16 Burgers / Chicken 9 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Chinese 10 Mexican 2 Mexican 14 Mexican 13 Fine Dining 2 Latin American 13 Mexican 13 Mexican 15 Cafes 2 Mexican 13 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 5,13 Mexican 11 Mexican 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Mexican 4 Mexican 11 Mexican 5 Desserts / Bakery 9 Steakhouse 2 Cafes 2 Asian / Korean 13 Asian / Vietnamese 4,5 Deli / Sandwich 4 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 5,7 Diner / Home Style 13 Fine Dining 2 Mexican 8 Asian / Chinese 5 Pizza [15] Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Chinese 5 Steakhouse 6,12,15 Asian / Filipino 2 Mexican 14 Steakhouse 6,8,13,15 Deli / Sandwich 2 Mexican 5,10 Deli / Sandwich 3 Bistro / New American 3 Barbecue 13 Indian 5 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 5 Deli / Sandwich 1 Bistro / New American 2,5 Mexican 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Desserts / Bakery 1 Pizza 1 Mexican 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Pizza 15 African 4 Barbecue 9 Pizza 1,6 Deli / Sandwich 1 Entertainment Dining 6 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3 Asian / Thai 16 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mexican 3,6,13 Deli / Sandwich 1 Gastropub 2 Pizza 14 Barbecue 13 Upscale Casual 1 Barbecue 2,5,11,12,14 European / Italian 8 Barbecue 2,8 Asian / Japanese 5 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mexican 1 Deli / Sandwich [10] Coffee / Tea Houses 9 Cafes 10 Upscale Casual 6 European / Italian 8 Bistro / New American 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Upscale Casual 3 Diner / Home Style 11 Mexican 1,3 Mexican 16

46 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANT

Mi Casita Parrilla Mexicana Mi Sueño Mi Tierra Mexican Restaurant Migo Mike Linnig's Mike's Tavern Milantoni Italian Restaurant MilkWood Mimi's Café Mimo's Pizzeria Mirage Mediterranean Restaurant Mirin Misawa Hibachi & Sushi Miss Ada’s Mission BBQ Mitchell's Fish Market MOD Pizza Moe's Southwest Grill Mojito in Havana Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone's Momma's Mustard, Pickles & BBQ Momma's Pizza Monnik Beer Co. More Shenanigan's Morris Deli & Catering Morton's Of Chicago Moya's American Kitchen Mozza Pi Mr. Gatti's Mt. Fuji Mussel & Burger Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Naila's Caribbean Cuisine Naïve NamNam Café Nancy's Bagel Box Napa River Grill Neighborhood Services Neil & Patty's Fireside Grill New Albanian Brewing Co. New Albany Roadhouse New China New Direction Bar & Grill New Wave Burritos Nirvana No Baked Cookie Dough Noche Mexican BBQ Noodles & Company Noosh Nosh Nord's Bakery North End Café North Lime Donuts Nouvelle Bar & Bottle Ntaba Coffee Haus O'Charley's O'Connell's Irish Pub O'Dolly's Oishii Sushi Old Chicago Old Hickory Inn Old Louisville Chili Bowl Old Louisville Tavern Old School NY Pizza Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Olé Frijole Ole Hickory Pit BBQ O-Line Sports Grill Olive Garden Ollie's Trolley Onion Restaurant & Tea House Open Caribbean Kitchen Orange Clover Kitchen Oriental Café Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri's Osaka Sushi Bar O'Shea's Irish Pub Oskar's Slider Bar Ostra Our Lady of Perpetual Hops Outback Steakhouse P.F. Chang's China Bistro Panchitos Ice Cream Panda China Panda Express Panera Bread Co. Papa Murphy's Pizza Parlour Pasha's Mediterranean Passtime Fish House Patrick O'Shea's Pat's Steak House Paul's Fruit Market Payne Street Bakehouse Pearl Street Game & Coffee House Pearl Street Taphouse Pearl Street Treats Peking City Express Penn Station Peppers Bar and Grill Pesto's Italian Philly Cheesesteak Express Pho Ba Luu Pho Café Pho Phi Pin + Proof Piña Fiesta Mexican Grill Pints&Union Pita Pit Pizza Bar Pizza Donisi Pizza King Pizza Lupo Pizza Place Please & Thank You Plehn's Bakery PokeHana Polly Freeze Ponderosa Steakhouse Porch Kitchen & Bar Porcini Porkland BBQ Portage House Potbelly Sandwhich Shop Primo's Delicatessen Primo's Pizza Proof On Main Prospect Café

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 78 73 78 78 53 67 74 48 59 60 76 59 72 66 62 53 60 79 73 75 74 62 60 69 74 64 54 59 61 61 72 56 80 69 73 59 73 64 50 52 67 61 59 70 67 79 67 80 79 59 52 80 57 80 52 81 59 74 65 72 61 68 59 68 61 74 50 79 62 68 74 56 70 73 57 70 70 70 61 72 74 56 52 69 54 52 80 71 71 64 61 61 76 53 74 54 64 64 81 68 80 71 64 68 74 64 73 73 73 69 79 68 76 61 61 61 61 61 81 80 72 80 54 68 74 62 59 64 64 61 50 57

MAP #

Mexican 1,6 Cuban / Caribbean 4,13 Mexican 5,7 Mexican 2 Seafood 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 European / Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 5 Pizza 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Japanese 11 Southern / Soul Food 1 Barbecue 3,15 Seafood 8 Pizza 4 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,6,8,11 Cuban / Caribbean 3 European / Spanish 7 European / Irish 2,3 Barbecue 3,5 Pizza 15 Microbreweries 13 European / Irish 4 Deli / Sandwich 1,2 Steakhouse 1 Casual Dining 6 Pizza 5 Pizza 12,13,15 Asian / Japanese 13 Burgers / Chicken 1,6 Desserts / Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 13 Cuban / Caribbean 15 Casual Dining 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Deli / Sandwich 1 Upscale Casual 5 Bistro / New American 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Pizza 14 Casual Dining 14 Asian / Chinese 5 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Desserts / Bakery 6 Mexican 2 Casual Dining 6,8,13 Bistro / New American 7 Desserts / Bakery 13 Cafes 2 Desserts / Bakery 13 Bistro / New American 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13 European / Irish 11 Diner / Home Style 13 Asian / Japanese 4 Pizza 6,8 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 5 European / Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Mexican 11 Barbecue 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 European / Italian 6,8,11,15 Burgers / Chicken 1 Asian / Chinese 14 Cuban / Caribbean 13 Cafes 16 Asian / Chinese 4 Asian / Chinese 3 Asian / Chinese 13 Pizza 1,2,5,10 Asian / Japanese 1,2 European / Irish 2 Burgers / Chicken 13 Bistro / New American 2 Microbreweries 14 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 Bistro / New American 5 Desserts / Bakery 2,13 Asian / Chinese 10 Asian / Chinese 5,6,8,15 Deli / Sandwich [10] Pizza [10] Pizza 16 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 4 Seafood 6 European / Irish 1 Steakhouse 2 Deli / Sandwich 3,4,5,7 Deli / Sandwich 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 16 Desserts / Bakery 16 Asian / Chinese 3 Deli / Sandwich [17] Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 1 Deli / Sandwich 5 Asian / Vietnamese 2 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Asian / Vietnamese 3 Entertainment Dining 1 Mexican 12 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 1 Pizza 13 Pizza 14,16 Pizza 2 Pizza 4 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2,10 Desserts / Bakery 3 Asian / Japanese 1 Desserts / Bakery 14 Steakhouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 European / Italian 2 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining 16 Deli / Sandwich 1,6,8 Deli / Sandwich 14 Pizza 6 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 10

RESTAURANT

Public House by Against The Grain Puerto Vallarta Purrfect Day Cat Café Qdoba Mexican Grill Queen of Sheba Queue Café Quick Wok Quill's Coffee Quizno's Subs Rafferty's of Louisville Railbirds Hot Chicken Raising Cane's Ramen House Ramiro's Cantina Ramiro's Cantina Express Ramsi's Café Rawnaissance Desserts Recbar Red Hog Red Hot Roasters Red Lobster Red Robin Red Sun Chinese Restaurant Red Top Gourmet Hot Dogs Red Yeti Brewing Co. Repeal Oak-Fired Steakhouse Rice Bowl Rice Box River City Drafthouse River House Restaurant River Road BBQ Riverside Café Roadrunner Kitchen ROC Restaurant Romano's Macaroni Grill Roof Top Grill Roosters Rootie's Sports Bar Roots Royal's Hot Chicken Rubbie's Southside Grill Rubbin' Butts BBQ Ruby Tuesday Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Ruth's Chris Steakhouse Rye S Bar Sabor Latino Safai Coffee Safai Coffee Safari Café & International Kitchen Saffron's Safier Mediterranean Deli Saint's Sake Blue Sakura Blue Sala Thai Sal's Pizza & Wings Salsarita's Fresh Cantina Sam's Food & Spirits Sam's Gyro Samurai Sanag Coffee Sanag II Restaurant Sandi's Kitchen Sante Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Sarang Sarino Savannah Restaurant Scarlet's Bakery Scene Schlotzky's Deli Seafood Lady Seeds & Greens Deli Selena's At Willow Lake Tavern Señor Iguana's Sergio's World Beers Seviche A Latin Restaurant Shack In The Back BBQ Shady Lane Café Shahar Café Shalimar Indian Shark's Seafood Shenanigan's Irish Grille Shine's Diner Shiraz Mediterranean Grill Shirley Mae's Café Shogun Shoney's ShopBar Shreeji Indian Vegetarian Sichuan Garden Sicilian Pizza & Pasta Sidebar The Silly Axe Café The Silver Dollar Silvio's Italian Restaurant Simple Greek Simply Thai Sir Dano's Pizza Parlor Sister Bean's Six Forks Burger Co. Skyline Chili Smashburger Smokey Bones BBQ SnoWhat Sol Aztecas Somewhere Louisville SOU! Southen Kitchen & Bar Soul Food Dining Soupy's Southern Express Southern Hospitality Spaghetti Shop Spinelli's Pizzeria The Sporting News Grill The Sports & Social Club Spring St. Bar & Grill The Standard Plate & Pour Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starlight Café Starlight Coffee Co. Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak & Bourbon Steak 'n Shake Steel City Pops Stevens & Stevens Deli Stoney River Storming Crab

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 69 79 57 79 70 57 71 81 64 59 56 56 72 79 79 57 81 68 58 81 53 56 71 56 69 54 72 71 68 50 62 58 64 74 74 73 56 68 72 56 62 62 59 53 54 50 59 76 81 81 70 76 76 68 72 72 72 61 79 59 76 72 81 70 65 79 72 72 74 56 81 66 64 73 64 73 79 68 48 62 58 58 75 53 74 66 76 66 72 59 68 76 71 61 52 58 52 74 76 72 61 81 56 59 56 62 81 79 52 52 66 64 66 66 74 61 68 68 68 55 72 81 58 81 58 81 54 56 81 64 54 73

MAP #

Microbreweries 2 Mexican 11,14,16 Cafes 2 Mexican [17] African 4 Cafes 1 Asian / Chinese 1 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,2,3,13,14 Deli / Sandwich 1,5,14,15 Casual Dining 3 Burgers / Chicken 13 Burgers / Chicken 2,5,6,8,11,12 Asian / Japanese 2 Mexican 2 Mexican 16 Cafes 2 Desserts / Bakery 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Cafes 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Seafood 3,13,15 Burgers / Chicken 3,8,15 Asian / Chinese 4 Burgers / Chicken 13 Microbreweries 16 Steakhouse 1 Asian / Korean 14 Asian / Chinese 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Upscale Casual 7 Barbecue 7 Cafes 16 Deli / Sandwich 14 European / Italian 2 European / Italian 5 Cuban / Caribbean 1,9 Burgers / Chicken 5,8,11,12,13,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 8 Asian / Japanese 2 Burgers / Chicken 1,6 Barbecue 13 Barbecue 14 Casual Dining 6 Seafood 5 Steakhouse 3 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 12 Latin American 13 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Coffee / Tea Houses 1 African 13 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Asian / Japanese 11 Asian / Japanese 3 Asian / Thai 11 Pizza 5 Southwest / Tex Mex 3,5 Casual Dining 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 13 Asian / Japanese 5 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 African 13 Diner / Home Style 12 Mexican 13 Asian / Japanese 2 Asian / Korean 2 European / Italian 13 Burgers / Chicken 13 Desserts / Bakery 1,3,13 Southern / Soul Food 1 Deli / Sandwich 8 Cajun / Creole 1,13 Deli / Sandwich 14 Cajun / Creole 5 Mexican 3,5,11,13,15 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 13 Cafes 7 Cafes 2 Indian 6 Seafood 4 European / Irish 2 Southern / Soul Food 9 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2,5,7,8,13 Southern / Soul Food 1 Asian / Japanese 6,8 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Indian 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Pizza 1,11 Bistro / New American 1 Cafes 2 Bistro / New American 2 European / Italian 3 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 2 Asian / Thai 3,5 Pizza 15 Coffee / Tea Houses 13 Burgers / Chicken 13 Casual Dining 2,3,6 Burgers / Chicken 1,5,13 Barbecue 6 Desserts / Bakery 13 Mexican 2,11 Bistro / New American 2 Bistro / New American 6 Southern / Soul Food 13 Deli / Sandwich 4 Southern / Soul Food 13 Southern / Soul Food 9 European / Italian 14 Pizza 1,2,3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Gastropub 14 Asian / Japanese 16 Coffee / Tea Houses [36] Cafes 14 Coffee / Tea Houses 14 Cafes 5 Desserts / Bakery 8 Steakhouse 5 Burgers / Chicken 13,15 Desserts / Bakery 2,3 Deli / Sandwich 2 Steakhouse 8 Cajun / Creole 15

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RESTAURANT

Stricker's Café Sub Station II Sue's Touch of Country Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sullivan’s Tap House Sunergos Coffee SuperChefs Superior Market & Deli Sushi Master Sway Sweet Frog Sweet Peaches Sweet Peaches 2 Roll Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets By Morgan Taco Choza Taco City Taco Tico Taj Palace Tandoori Fusion TanThai Restaurant Taqueria La Mexicana Tavern On Fourth Taylor's Cajun Meat Co. Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Texas Roadhouse TGI Friday's Thai Café Thai Noodles The Back Door The Bakery The Bard's Town The Block Gourmet Deli The Café The Celtic Pig The Champagnery The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The Chicken Box The ChillBurger The Corner The Cozy Kitchen The Eagle The Earl The Early Edition The Fat Lamb The Fudgery The Goat The Hub Louisville The Library The Pearl The Piazza The Pine Room The Post The Spot The Sword & the Scone The Table The Water Company The Wright House Bar B Q + Eatery Thelma's Deli Tikka House Tim Tam Tavern Time 4 Thai Tin Roof Toast on Market ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tomo Japanese Restaurant Tony Impellizzeri's Toonerville Tavern Topp't Pizza & Chopped Salad Town Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tsubaki Sushi & Bar Tucker's Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Twig & Leaf Union 15 Uptown Café Varanese Verbena Café V-Grits Vic's Café Victoria Mexican Restaurant Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Ville Chicken and Seafood Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen Vincenzo's Vint Coffee Volare W.W. Cousin's Wagner's Pharmacy Walker's Exchange Way Cool Café Wei Wei Chinese Express West Point Pizza Which Wich? Whiskey Dry Wick's Pizza Wild Dog Rose Tea Boutique Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion Williams Bakery Wiltshire at Logan Street Market Wiltshire at the Speed Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery and Café The Wing Zone Wingstop World of Beer Yafa Café Yamato Japanese Steak House Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching Yoki Buffet You-Carryout-A Yummy China Yummy Pollo Zanzabar Za's Pizza Zaxby's Zeggz Amazing Eggs Ziba's Bistro Zoe's Kitchen Zombie Taco Zoup! Z's Oyster & Steak Bar

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE 58 64 66 81 68 81 59 64 72 50 81 64 64 81 81 81 79 79 79 76 76 72 79 68 73 76 71 54 60 72 72 68 81 69 64 58 74 52 58 58 56 56 61 65 56 68 58 52 81 68 52 68 68 60 52 61 60 81 58 68 62 64 76 68 72 68 60 72 72 72 61 61 61 74 68 72 60 79 74 60 61 50 50 58 66 58 79 73 52 53 64 48 81 74 56 65 50 58 71 61 64 56 61 81 58 72 81 58 52 50 58 56 56 55 76 72 71 79 71 71 71 71 76 68 61 56 58 70 76 79 64 48

MAP #

Cafes 16 Deli / Sandwich 13 Southern / Soul Food 12 Desserts / Bakery 11 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Coffee / Tea Houses 1,13 Casual Dining 2 Deli / Sandwich 1 Asian / Japanese 8 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts / Bakery 15 Deli / Sandwich 9 Deli / Sandwich 9 Desserts / Bakery 14 Desserts / Bakery 2 Desserts / Bakery 16 Mexican 3 Mexican 2 Mexican 12 Indian 8 Indian 8 Asian / Thai 14 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Cajun / Creole 14 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 3,5 Asian / Chinese 8 Steakhouse 2,5,12,13,15 Casual Dining 1 Asian / Thai 7 Asian / Thai 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 2 Desserts / Bakery 4 Entertainment Dining 2 Deli / Sandwich 5 Cafes 1 European / Irish 1 Bistro / New American 2 Cafes 3 Cafes 3 Burgers / Chicken 12 Burgers / Chicken 15 Pizza 8 Diner / Home Style 2 Burgers / Chicken 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 14 Cafes 16 Bistro / New American 2 Desserts / Bakery 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 5 Bistro / New American 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Casual Dining 14 Bistro / New American 10 Pizza 13 Casual Dining 6 Coffee / Tea Houses 6 Cafes 9 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Barbecue 14 Deli / Sandwich 1 Indian 3 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Asian / Thai 2 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 3 Casual Dining 1,14 Asian / Japanese 5 Asian / Japanese 7 Asian / Japanese 14 Pizza 14 Pizza 1 Pizza 13,14 European / Italian 16 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 1 Asian / Japanese 5 Casual Dining 14 Southwest / Tex Mex [8] European / Italian 13 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 13 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Cafes 8 Southern / Soul Food 2 Cafes 14 Mexican 4 Asian / Vietnamese 13 Bistro / New American 5 Seafood 13 Deli / Sandwich 5 Fine Dining 1,4 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 European / Italian 2 Burgers / Chicken 3 Diner / Home Style 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 1 Asian / Chinese 1 Pizza 12 Deli / Sandwich 6,8,14 Burgers / Chicken 1 Pizza 2,4,6,14 Coffee / Tea Houses 2 Cafes 1,3,5,15 Asian / Japanese 2 Desserts / Bakery 15 Cafes 1 Bistro / New American 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafes 2 Burgers / Chicken 4,13 Burgers / Chicken 6,12 Gastropub 8 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 1 Asian / Japanese 14 Asian / Chinese 5 Mexican 14 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 6 Asian / Chinese 15 Asian / Chinese 11 Latin American 13 Bar & Grill / Taphouse 13 Pizza 2 Burgers / Chicken 5,12,13,14,16 Cafes 5 African 1 Mediterranean/Middle Eastern 8 Mexican 1 Deli / Sandwich 1 Fine Dining 5

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2019 47

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser

h = Late Night

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

p = Full Bar

OPEN TILL/PAST 11 PM

f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 8969570. 211 Clover Lane has been tucked away across the railroad tracks in St. Matthews, in the corner of a little cluster of upscale shops since 1992. Those who know how to find it enjoy drinks in a quiet elegant lounge and dine off seasonal menus. Owner Andrew Smith and his staff keep 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables. $$$$ Br L D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Since taking over this Old Louisville landmark restaurant in 2004, Edward Lee has become a Food TV fixture and opened new restaurants. Kevin Ashworth is the Executive Chef at this perennial top table and continues the adventurous prix-fixe menu. The Wednesday a la carte nights allow sampling the menu at a more modest price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant and understated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments is overseen by Chef Allen Sims, who has kept long-standing favorites like the crispy fish and spicy Cantonese noodles but has put his own stamp on the menu with items like fried chicken livers, beet and pear salad, short ribs Wellington and prosciutto-wrapped lamb chops. Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano during dinner. $$$ L D hpfe ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. Executive Chef James Adams oversees the formal dining room in one of downtown’s historic hotels. The Hot Brown is still on the menu, but new dishes tempt visitors and old timers: roasted cauliflower with quinoa and mushrooms, crispy skin duck and a vegetarian harvest plate. The chef’s table in the kitchen is still a great place for a special party. $$$ D p JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight but the food is consistently excellent. Chef Duncan Williams has continued classic menu items that regulars love (crab cakes, shrimp and grits) and worked in newer items (braised pork shank, squash risotto). $$$$ L D hpe LA CHASSE 1359 Bardstown Rd., 822-3963. Chef Kristina Dyer joins front-of-the-house man Isaac Fox in creating the ambience of a fine European country inn in the heart of the Highlands. The frequently-changing menu always includes some game dishes (rabbit, wild boar), harder-tofind items like sweetbreads and octopus, and unusual salads. $$$$ D hp

48 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution since 1988 under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, Lilly’s continues to be as fresh as the locallysourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Owner Edward Lee has made the downstairs space at Actors Theatre a dining destination. The menu blends Asian and Southern influences (smoked chicken wings, bibimpap, black BBQ pork shoulder, ramen noodles) and has received national attention. $$$ D p SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to its namesake, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This long-standing suburban upscale steak and oyster concept offers splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience. $$$$ L D hp

8UP ELEVATED DRINKERY AND KITCHEN 350 W. Chestnut St. (Hilton Garden Inn), 631-4180. This rooftop restaurant and bar above the hotel at the corner of Fourth and Chestnut has three elegant areas - an upscale casual dining room, the bar with a separate kitchen and menu, and an expansive outdoor patio that overlooks downtown. The bar kitchen’s two wood-fired ovens offer small plates to nibble while sipping; the main kitchen serves fine dinners. $$$ B D hpf BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell’s comfortable, casual restaurant in the Prospect Center continues to please regulars and to find new fans. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf BOURBON RAW 446 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-9009. This bar and restaurant in Fourth Street Live! features a raw seafood bar, an eclectic Southern menu, special Bourbon dinners and more than 85 Bourbons. The classy interior includes a 57-foot marble bar top, and an outdoor patio area. $$$ Br L D hp BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRENDON’S CATCH 23 505 S. Fourth St. (Embassy Suites), 909-3323. This restaurant inside Embassy Suites hotel has a strong seafood focus: “wild caught” Hawaiian tuna, king crab, Chilean sea bass, fresh oysters, black grouper, and the famous Brendon’s seafood tower. The setting is a relaxed but elegant atmosphere; other choices include steak and Low Country cuisine. $$$ D hp BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now, with three venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. $$ Br L D hpf CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail. Chef Raquel Romero’s eclectic menu offers Kentucky burgoo, Kentucky Kobb salad and several dishes (Buffalo Trace Reuben, Makers Mark ribs) that incorporate some of the bar’s 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the California-based chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind of restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D hpf DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Decca’s handsomely re-done 19th-century building, its serene garden, its classy basement bar and breezy second-floor eating balcony are all fun. But Chef Annie Pettry’s inventive, locally-sourced menu combined with the restaurant’s wine program make it a classy place to dine. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic castiron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS & JACK'S RESTAURANT | LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. A Louisville institution since 1985 under the ownership of the late culinary icon Dean Corbett, Jared Matthews now runs both the restaurant and Jack’s Lounge. Matthews has made some physical updates, but has striven to keep the restaurant’s and the lounge’s classic upscale casual atmosphere and approachable menu. The signature mushroom fumé remains, along with satisfying entrées like Yankee pot roast, fried chicken with sawmilll gravy and Parmesan-crusted sea bass. $$$ D p FORK & BARREL 2244 Frankfort Ave., 907-3675. Chef/owner Geoffrey Heyde serves upscale modern American cuisine in upper Clifton, with an emphasis on local ingredients, craft cocktails and southern hospitality. Look for pork shank with roasted garlic grits, buttermilksoaked and cornmeal dusted chicken livers and chocolate bourbon truffles. $$$ D hp HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. This true farm-totable restaurant celebrates its local suppliers with photo murals on the walls. Chef Jeff Dailey’s seasonal menus, using ingredients sourced within a 100-mile radius, are tweaked monthly, but you can always find the buttermilk fried chicken, several seasonal pastas and catfish from Kentucky Lake. $$$ Br D hpf J. ALEXANDER’S REDLANDS GRILL 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashvillebased chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. A Prospect mainstay since 1994, J. Harrod’s substantial menu— grilled steaks and chops, pasta, seafood, fried green tomatoes and chicken livers with gravy—is served with aplomb in a quiet, comfortable dining room. Comfort food Sundays and Wednesday Italian Nights brings out special dishes. $$$ D p MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 6253001. Going to a show downtown? Chow down first at Marketplace. The elegant decor, whether at the circular bar, in the serene dining room, or any of the three outdoor spaces will get you in the mood, and the seasonal Italian-influenced southern cuisine will get you to the curtain well-fed indeed. $$ L D hpf

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MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. If you have pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s, The Melting Pot is for you. If you can melt it and dip things in it, it’s probably on the menu. $$$ D hp MESH 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 632-4421. The lush modern building and the casual/elegant menu have made a strong presence in the neighborhood. The cosmopolitan menu includes kung pao calamari, beet salad, Amish chicken and mushroom strudel, all served in an atmosphere of “contemporary elegance and comfort.” $$$ Br L D pf NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 423-5822. An eclectic mix of California-inspired fusion dishes served in a clean, crisp, informally classy atmosphere have made Napa a long-time favorite. Chef Seth Butkus’s lunch offerings range from smoked salmon wontons to Vietnamese salad. The lovely patio makes for lazy summer dining on baked goat cheese, vegetable pad Thai or smoked pork shank. $$$ Br L D hpf OLD STONE INN AND TAVERN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY. (502) 722-8200. This century-old restaurant has taken on renewed popularity and cachet under the ownership of Churchill Downs Executive Chef David Danielson, whose team appreciates its history as much as he does. His menu and service strive to connect the past with the present. Dine in the main rooms, the bar or on the impressive patio. $$$ Br L pf

complex is getting more complex as he begins renovations on the upper floor to create new dining and party spaces. The elegant reimagining of the former boat dealership building befits the always interesting seafood dishes inspired by Nawlins and Charleston, where Varanese began his career. There’s an extensive raw bar, too, and dockside service for boaters. $$$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. New York hip meets Kentucky farm produce and meats, resulting in a daily menu focused on what is freshest. Dishes show unpretentious flair, served in a sleek East Market Street ambiance. $$ D hpf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 581-1234. The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth Street in good weather and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken, cooked to order, quickly became a signature dish. $$$$ D pf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. The Uptown has been an excellent spot for lunch and bistrostyle dinners for so long that people seem to take it for granted. Those in the know find it an excellent value, for its Highlands location and sophisticated ambience, as well as the eclectic modern menu that includes seasonal small plate selections by long-time chef Matt Weber. $$$ L D hpf

PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 217-6360. Executive Chef Jonathan Searle has kept the bison burger and the charred octopus, favorites from Proof’s start, even as he has put his own stamp on the menu with dishes such as chicken fried pork cheeks, hearth-roasted spaghetti squash and extensive charcuterie choices. The bar remains one of the hippest in town. $$$ B Br L D hpf

VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese’s signature restaurant (he has River House and Levee too) has a slate-backed interior waterfall and a folding front wall that opens in good weather. The lively, international seasonal menu is buttressed by frequent special wine, whiskey or beer dinners. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe

RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. John Varanese’s river-side restaurant

VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.)

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WALKER’S EXCHANGE 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House Hotel), 272-1834. Allan Rosenberg, late of Butchertown Pizza Hall, takes over as chef de cuisine at the Galt House’s Kentucky-style brasserie located in the West Tower. Styled after a19th-century restaurant of the same name, the menu juxtaposes familiar French and American dishes — including classic Southern-style comforts like short rib hand pies, Kentucky country, and shrimp po-boys. $$$$ B Br L D hp WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 589-5224. Understated elegance and creative dishes from Chef Rory O’Connell characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish. Open Thur.Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf

502 BAR & BISTRO 10401 Meeting Pl., 742-4772. This sleek, contemporary spot in Norton Commons, has lots of TVs, but the food is several notches above the norm of sports bars. Try Chef Ming Pu’s charred broccoli soup, brown butter sage gnocchi or cauliflower steak. A full bar and signature cocktails, and brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. $$ Br D hpf ALEX&NDER 1121 E. Washington St., 561-0267. Dallas McGarity, owner of The Fat Lamb and Portage House, oversees the menu at the rooftop bar at Copper & Kings Distillery. Dinner is Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, and brunch and dinner Saturday and Sunday. McGarity’s menu is, in his own words, “elegantly simple without being intimidating, and that can complement the outstanding drinks served in Alex& nder.” $$ Br D pfe

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ANOOSH BISTRO 4864 Brownsboro Rd., 690-6585. Anoosh Shariat’s elegant Brownsboro Center space has an eclectic lunch and dinner menu that includes trout provençal, coconut curry tofu, grilled romaine salad, and house-made pastas and risottos. $$ L D p BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. Located in an historic Clifton building, Bourbons Bistro stocks a selection of more than 130 bourbons, including a barrel selection program. Chef Jereme McFarland’s bourbon-inspired, seasonally-influenced menu recently has featured tuna poke tacos, cacio e pepe pasta and bourbon bread pudding. $$$ D pf BRIDGE & BARREL 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 206-7170. Bridge & Barrel, offering upscale Southern comfort foods like fried green tomatoes, black-eyed pea hummus, smoked pork shoulder sandwiches, fried chicken and catfish platters. Enjoy it all with sweeping views of the Ohio River and the Louisville skyline. $$ L D pfe BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY 1076 E. Washington St., 742-8315. Bobby Benjamin’s restaurant offers house-made pasta and charcuterie, a chef’s table near the kitchen, and dishes such as whole rotisserie chicken and the Grocery steak, a bone-in, 55-day dry-aged ribeye served with black truffle béarnaise. An upstairs entertainment space, Lola, has intimate seating and its own kitchen for late-night noshing. $$$ Br L D hp CUVÉE WINE TABLE 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 242-5200. Scott Harper and others from the Bristol Bar & Grille organization have made this wine bar and café in the East End a fine stop for after work. Drop in to explore Master Sommelier Harper’s adventurous wine list with tasting pours and small plates of charcuterie, cheeses, salads and snacks from the kitchen. Look for regular casual classes organized on various wine themes. $$ L D hpf DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Owner Marshall Grissom offers breakfast, lunch and dinner in the comfortable, brick-walled downtown space. Get your day going with eggs, omelets or bread pudding French toast. Lunch on salads, sandwiches or burgers or choose a dinner entrée any time of the day or night. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informal Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EGGS OVER FRANKFORT 2712 Frankfort Ave., 7094452. Husband and wife team Jackson and Cortney Nave have creatively refurbished this Crescent Hill space into a “very traditional” breakfast spot. Its menu includes omelets, eggs Benedict, waffles and oatmeal, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. $ B Br L GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a wood-fired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. One of the more unusual restaurant spaces in town, Hammerheads is also one of the hippest. Adam Burress and Chase Murcerino, who share owner and chef duties, fire up their BBQ smoker street-side, and fans far and wide flock to the semi-basement space on the edge of Germantown to partake of pulled pork and beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches, pork belly BLTs and soft shell crab tacos. $ D h

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HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HEARTH ON MELLWOOD 1765 Mellwood Ave., 3652239 The owners of Chik’n & Mi have taken over the classy historic building that recently housed Bistro 1860. Chef Jason McCollum’s experimental menu offers "modern, new American food with international influences,” focused on shareable plates such as oysters, lamb tartare and vegetable-centric seasonal dishes, served in a space that captures the spirit of an airy coastal, Southern home. $$$ D pf HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of small plates and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $$ L D he

OSTRA 1758 Frankfort Ave., 915-0160. Adam Burress (Game, Hammerheads, Migo) and partners have taken over the funky Barcode 1758 space in Clifton, serving a menu focused on sustainable food. The seasonal menu includes shellfish, rabbit, locally-sourced poultry and even some unusual sustainable foods, like crickets in the brownies. $$ D pf P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 3277707. This Arizona-based, Chinese-themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinese-style dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 3841600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe

LEVEE AT RIVER HOUSE 3015 River Rd., 897-5000. Levee is the more casual, family oriented component to River House, and part of .John Varanese’s multi-million dollar expansion plan that includes covering one of the patios. Small plates and other light eats all priced under $15, and entertainment are on offer nightly. The live music program includes an eclectic mix of jazz, blues, salsa and even “beachy music.” $$ D hpfe

THE HUB LOUISVILLE 2235 Frankfort Ave., 777-1505. Clifton has taken to this sprawling modern restaurant, cocktail bar and adult rec center with gusto. The Southern-inspired small plates menu and its specials board of rotating entrees pleases multiple tastes. The bar boasts a big rum and tequila selection, with alcoholic floats a specialty. The lively patio is packed in good weather. $$ D hpfe

WILTSHIRE AT THE SPEED 2035 S. Third St., 634-2976. Susan Hershberg and her team led by Chef Reed Johnson bring “artfully inspired, creative and seasonal” breakfast and luncheon fare to the Speed Museum. Open at 10 a.m. for pastries, croissants, coffee and tea, lunch is served until 3 p.m. with soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees such as buckwheat noodle salad with seared salmon. A grab-andgo counter is open until 5 p.m. And now a limited dinner menu is served Fridays when the museum is open until 8 p.m. $$ B Br L pf

MERLE’S WHISKEY KITCHEN 122 W. Main St., 2908888. Tony Palombino’s popular Whiskey Row food and music spot across from the KFC Yum! Center offers live music on a regular basis and a menu that emphasizes tacos and Southern fried chicken. Sides offered include sweet potato casserole, long-cooked green beans and a candied bacon appetizer. 100 bourbons are currently on offer, including handpicked private barrels from Buffalo Trace, Maker’s Mark, Wild Turkey and others. $ L D hpe NEIGHBORHOOD SERVICES 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. This casual eating option in the Omni hotel serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and offers relaxed indoor and outdoor dining. Enter from the hotel or street. $$$ B L D pf

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THE FAT LAMB 2011 Grinstead Dr., 409-7499. The first of Chef/owner Dallas McGarity’s dining properties, this comfortable, classy Highlands bistro serves lunch and dinner, focusing on small plates such as onion and chive hushpuppies, lamb meatballs, curry-seared salmon, tandoori-seared scallops and ricotta ghnocchi with truffled mushroom cream. $$ L D hpf

VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 7081850. In the heart of Anchorage is this two-level Eurovillage inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

LOUVINO 1606 Bardstown Rd., 365-1921, 11400 Main St., 742-1456. These two wine bars have become so popular that owners Chad and Lauren Coulter have opened outlets in Cincinnati and Indianapolis. The seasonal shareable small plates menu and clever organization of the wine list make this a prime spot for a night out with friends. A myriad of wines by the glass are available fresh from their wine-dispensing cruvinet system. $$ Br D pfe

NOUVELLE BAR & BOTTLE 214 S. Clay St., 631-9428. This French-style wine bar sells 40+ wines by the glass (in 3-, 6- or 9-ounce pours) and 200 to 300 wines by the bottle, focusing on affordable, interesting wines. A selection of beers, ciders, classic cocktails, bourbons and scotches also are available. A small bites menu – cheese, charcuterie, hummus, baked goods – is offered, along with desserts. $ L D hpf

THE CHAMPAGNERY AT ARCHITYPE GALLERY 1764 Frankfort Ave., 896-8050. This Clifton business hosts art shows and now also has a full bar with a focus on more than 120 Champagnes and sparkling wines plus a menu of light bites – oysters, caviar, charcuterie, cheeses, fruit and desserts. $$$ D hp

THE PINE ROOM 6325 River Rd., 528-4422. Augusta Holland is behind the modern incarnation of this classic Prospect restaurant, in the space that most recently was Cast Iron Steakhouse. Start with, perhaps, the chicken liver lettuce wraps, or sweet potato falafel. Then go for the blackened pork chop or the grain bowl. The buttermilk fried chicken is a dining favorite. $$$ Br D hpfe

LOU LOU FOOD + DRINK 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. Jared Matthews, who also operates Equus and Jack’s Lounge, continues the Café Lou Lou tradition of Nawlins-style Cajun food, but Chef Christian Garay has added other casual fare including pizza, pastas and calzones. $$ Br L D hp

NOOSH NOSH 4816 Brownsboro Ctr., 205-2888. Anoosh Shariat’s second restaurant in the Brownsboro Center is a family-style eatery centered around a rustic stone oven in an open kitchen. Breakfast offers several omelet choices, tikka eggs and tofu florentine. For lunch or dinner, share smoked salmon bruschetta, Nosh nachos or Thai-style mussels, pastas, flatbreads or sandwiches. $$$ B Br L D pf

upscale restaurants around town (Seviche, 8UP, Pine Room) has his own place, where he’s highlighting his mixed Southern American and Korean family food heritage. Locally sourced ingredients are elements in dishes like braised pork belly, chicken and waffles, and he emphasizes sustainable seafoods. $$$$ D p

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4666. This franchise concept from the Florida-based Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp

THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. In this Clifton honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music, all on vinyl, is the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has happy fans crowding in most nights. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no

CAPTAIN VILLE 2001 Seventh Street Rd., 996-7426. The menu of this Algonquin neighborhood fish house includes perch, cod, salmon and catfish, the best seller. There are crab cakes, too, and sides of fried green tomatoes, fried okra and hush puppies. $ L D h

SOMEWHERE LOUISVILLE 1135 Bardstown Rd., 5526942. Now you can dine and have some cocktails, and then slide right next door to Nowhere for late-night fun and games. The Southern-inspired menu includes beer cheese and pretzels, smoked wings, buttermilk fried chicken and 3 varieties of flatbreads. $$ D hpfe

CATFISH HAVEN PAY LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their pay-tofish lake. $$ L D f

SOU! SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR 9980 Linn Station Rd., 614-6499. Chef James Moran, veteran of several

CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of

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Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D CUNNINGHAM’S CREEKSIDE 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. One of the longest-lived restaurants in the city, Cunningham’s has had several incarnations since 1870, and now pulls in old timers and new fans at its Harrod’s Creek location. There you can find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this long-time favorite. $ Br L D hpf

gumbo, too, or mac and cheese and grilled cheese sandwiches for those who can’t do fish. $$ L D hp HUNGRY PELICAN 5412 Bardstown Rd., 239-7145. The sole remaining representative of a quite popular chain still keeps up the tradition. The cooks and servers are oldtimers who understand the intricacies of getting perfectly fried seafood to customers in timely fashion. Generouslyfilled rolled oysters, too. $$ L D pf JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D pf

KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 8950544, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made Kingfish a popular favorite for many years. Aficionados of rolled oysters and frog legs can find both here, as well as a large selection of fried and broiled seafood, as dinners and sandwiches. Both locations boast river views. $$ L D hpfe

THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. This friedfish eatery has been popular in the St. Matthews neighborhood since 1983. The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f

MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. This popular riverside restaurant has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f

HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to find. Its oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f HOOKED ON FRANKFORT 3202 Frankfort Ave., 6909951. The owners of Frankfort Ave Beer Depot now operate this fish house two doors away. The menu features fried fish sandwiches, fish tacos, baskets of shrimp or oysters or frog legs. Clam/conch chowder and seafood

MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 4121818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold

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beer, with no frills, this Jeffersontown tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe RED LOBSTER 4639 Outer Loop, 964-9647, 986 Breckenridge Ln., 899-3334, 951 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-0444. Consistent quality and moderate prices have maintained this seafood chain’s popularity in the casual dining category since its founding more than fifty years ago. Periodic promotions please repeat customers and draw new folks into the fold. $$$ L D hpf RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantilyclad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D pf SHARK’S SEAFOOD 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 450-5775. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish — white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon — to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. $ L D h VILLE CHICKEN AND SEAFOOD 4322 Poplar Level Rd., 919-8994. The name certainly reveals the focus of this well-kept little neighborhood spot that has re-worked an old Arby’s building. There are crawfish and crab legs, too, corn on the cob and very commendable real Southern sweet tea. $$ L D

BOB'S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The signature restaurant located off the lobby in the Omni Hotel offers refined service and a decor focused on American thoroughbred racing. A steak menu offers seven prime selections, from ribeye to filet to 28-oz.

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porterhouse. Seafood, too (crab cakes, scampi, lobster tails), and sumptuous desserts. $$$$ D p BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 290-8220. This Knoxville-based company’s first satellite location has been a downtown hit. A churrascaria works like this: You choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf BROOKLYN & THE BUTCHER 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN. 590-2646. Ian Hall of The Exchange Pub + Kitchen opened this steakhouse in a renovated historic hotel with lots of cool touches: black and white tiles on floor and walls, an open kitchen and a vintage bar counter from an old local Woolworth’s store. The bar program emphasizes bourbon, Scotch and craft beers. The menu includes fresh seafood, small plates and lots of beef — New York strip, bone-in ribeye, flat iron steaks — all as locally sourced as possible. $$$ D pf CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader also operates this riverside eatery where the kitchen cooks steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices. The ambience is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574. These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D hp EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. Located on the ground floor of the Starks Building is one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu encompasses high end steaks, well-prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866-676-7463. After you hit it big at the tables, Binion’s has everything a high roller craves. Start with oysters Rockefeller or shrimp cocktail, French onion soup or crab bisque. Then, choose Chilean sea bass, lobster tail, rack of lamb or a choice of prime steak, including Wagyu tenderloin. $$$$ D p JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 584-0102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ L D hpe LE MOO 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. Kevin Grangier of Village Anchor & Pub in Anchorage has re-imagined the space that was for decades KT’s, creating a new interior design he calls “Paris brothel meets vintage warehouse,” a lively and amusing space with lots of steel, neon and velvet, a large bar, and an outdoor patio. The Euro-eclectic menu has an emphasis on steaks, of course, but the dragthemed brunch has gained many fans. $$ Br L D hpfe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashvillebased chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This below-ground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full 54 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 896-9234. A local favorite for more than 60 years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steakhouses in town. $$$$ D pf PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 9646117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D REPEAL OAK-FIRED STEAKHOUSE 101 W. Main St. (Hotel Distil), 716-7372. The main restaurant at the new Distill Hotel on Whiskey Row fires the steaks over used bourbon barrel staves. If steak isn’t your dish, check out the sole meunière, the truffled spaghetti, the well-stocked raw bar, or grab a blue crab omelet at lunch. As you might expect, the spirits list is deep. $$$$ B Br L D pe RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The long-standing Louisville location of this New Orleans-based international chain is perched atop the 16-floor Kaden Tower. Ruth’s Chris serves excellent steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe STEAK & BOURBON 1321 Herr Ln., 708-2196. Ole Restaurant Group has replaced Artesano Tapas with this affordably-priced premium steakhouse. In addition to the signature 24 oz. cowboy cut Angus ribeye (aged a minimum of 30 days) the menu offers pan-roasted chicken, grilled Verlasso salmon, steak & cheese hand pies, Maryland-style crab cakes and carrot cake with bourbon caramel icing. Try the House Punch or choose from over 100 bourbons, including a reserve list. $$$ L D pf STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ Br D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600, 13321 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0085, 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8975005. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

21ST AMENDMENT TAVERN 1481 S. Shelby St., 6547221. The former Club 21 has been restored and reimagined as a Schitzelburg neighborhood bar with a food menu that is both Kentucky-centric and a nod to longmissing German-American food. In addition to a selection of burgers, look for the baloney burger, a Neighborhood Nosh meat board with braunschweiger and pickled eggs and other retro bar favorites. $$ L D hpf CORNER 102 W. Main St., 583-1888. Corner is the bar and restaurant attached to the chic, contemporary Aloft Hotel

downtown. The emphasis here is on the bar, with a wine and cocktail menu longer and more creative than the food side. Still, there are solid bar munchies, from dips and deviled eggs to sandwiches, salads and tacos. $$ B D pf CRESCENT HILL CRAFT HOUSE 2636 Frankfort Ave., 895-9400. This beer pub serves only locally-produced beers, and the menu, now overseen by Chef Tim Smith, is focused on local food sources. You’ll find everything from poutine and boiled peanut hummus to vegan Reubens, grilled cauliflower steak and flat iron steak and eggs. There is live music and outdoor dining in season. $$ Br L D hpf DISTRICT 6 3930 Shelbyville Rd., 873-5561. Named after the veteran restaurant owners’, the Thai family’s, native district in Saigon, District 6 features traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on their mother Nga’s recipes, updated with modern influences. Look for items like the bone-in short rib pho, spicy fried hot wings, beef lettuce wraps, red curry chicken and Vietnamese spicy street corn, as well as noodle bowls — and whole crispy fried fish. $$ L D p DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR & RESTAURANT 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hole stocks 150-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. Well-priced bar food like biscuit sandwiches, tacos and Frito Pie make for a quick, satisfying lunch. Bluegrass music several times a week too. $$ L D pfe EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building such a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu that he has had to expand his dining room and patio. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes house-made ginger ale. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list bring in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D hf GALAXIE 732 E. Market St., 690-6565. The guys behind RYE just down the street now have the Green Building space for a bar dedicated to moderately priced drinks ($7 cocktails are what they are shooting for) and a bar menu of “international-inspired street food,” which was described as “easy to take with you,” so you can nosh as you imbibe. $$ L D hpf GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 454-7075. In the house behind the Holy Grale is Gralehaus, a café and deli. Its breakfast and lunch menu includes biscuit and duck gravy, crepes, and a coffee bar, with house-made sodas, shrubs and kombucha. Also beers on tap and in the cooler. $$ B Br L f H. M. FRANK'S AN O'SHEA'S PUBLIC HOUSE 355 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1174. Upon gutting the interior and re-building the facade of this 1880’s-era building, the original identity of H.M. Frank’s Dry Goods store was uncovered, a discovery that has given this O’Shea’s outpost its name. The bar is made from repurposed barn wood, there’s an event space upstairs, and upscale bar food is created by Chef John Knightly. $$ L D hpf THE HALL ON WASHINGTON 111 W. Main St., 3841600. Inspired by the conviviality of German beer halls, this Whiskey Row spot serves a menu featuring small plates of sausages, charcuterie, cheeses and pickled vegetables, plus beef, lamb, chicken and seafood entrées. The full bar has dozens of rotating draft beers and ciders, canned and bottled beers. $$ L D hp THE MANHATTAN PROJECT 2101 Frankfort Ave., 7498925. This upscale gastropub has expanded, with a main room now looking out on the lively Cifton streetscape.

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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The new menu includes short rib sliders, chicken and waffles and four kinds of fries. Mac ’n’ cheese has its own menu section listing almost a dozen possible adds ons— from bacon to crab to pork cheek to grilled chicken. TMP has become popular for its brunch, tacos & trivia Tuesdays, and the original space in the rear is a great sports watching or special party venue. $$ Br L D hpfe

CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001, 1555 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0810, 11801 Interchange Dr., 618-0838. When the signature item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain popular. $ L D f

THE STANDARD PLATE & POUR 207 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1055. The renovated building that until recently housed Gospel Bird is now The Standard. Owners Beau Kerley and Tim Smith characterized their new business as a “pub with elevated food.” Look for Chef Smith’s tried and true favorites – steak and eggs, tomato soup en croute – as well as house-made pork rinds, cheese fritters and beer cheese and pretzels. $$$ Br L D hpfe

DADDY RICH’S 617 W. Oak St., 290-9110. The kitchen incubator Chef Space gave birth to this new Old Louisville soul food spot. Owner Rodrick Martin named it after his late grandfather, who inspired him. The limited cooked to order menu includes chicken wraps, mini-waffles and ten wing flavors.

WORLD OF BEER 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 690-4280. This Florida-based chain serves a wide variety of craft beers and sports a tavern menu that is a few notches above the usual bar food: wings and sandwiches, sure, but also chimichurri meatballs, ahi tuna poke and chipotle BBQ chicken flatbread. Its giant pretzel and beer cheese is a great shared nibbler. $$ L D hpfe

80/20 @ KAELIN’S 1801 Newburg Rd., 200-8020. Burgers are back at the birthplace of the cheeseburger. Chef Matt Staggs's “rustic regional” menu offers 7 burgers and 7 entrées at this complete renovation of the classic Kaelin’s space. There’s a malt shop serving fountain drinks and house-made ice cream on one side, and a family-friendly restaurant and bar on the other. Seating on the spacious patio/porch, and upstairs is a large private room for parties and meetings. $$ L D h pf BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D

DINO’S FOOD MART 2601 W. Broadway, 774-4333. This little grocery and convenience store also serves up some of the most popular takeout fried chicken in the West End. $ LD DIXIE CHICKEN 1785 W. Oak St., 690-2748, 3947 Dixie Hwy., 448-2102, 8118 Preston Hwy., 450-5002. A growing fried chicken spot that serves up honest fried chicken and good, standard sides at reasonable prices, Dixie Chicken now has an eat-in outlet on Preston, in addition to their take-out only spots in Old Louisville and on the edge of Shively. $$ L D h DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery, an institution that goes back more than 70 years, hasn’t changed much. It opens early, stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf FAMILY TIES 1809 W. Jefferson St., 915-7069, 1030 Cecil Ave., 907-6548. This pair of restaurants has a dual personality. The Jefferson St. location is more sports bar with a menu of burgers, wings, hot dogs and brats. The Cecil Ave. location offers more of the same, but the main focus is on barbecue. $ B L D h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702,

4226 Shelbyville Rd., 891-8848, 4917 Outer Loop, 8223702, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1027. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big smoky kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GET IT ON A BUN AT BOOTY’S 822 State St., New Albany IN, 292-3800. Another successful food truck finds a permanent home. Booty’s made their name with the Booty Dog, Booty Burger and chili but the menu now ranges from jerk chicken to pulled pork on brioche to a meatloaf cupcake.$ L D GRIND BURGER KITCHEN 829 E. Market St., 851-7333. Owners Liz and Jesse Huot are firmly established now in NuLu, giving them much-needed parking, as well as a full bar. In addition to their signature burgers, the Huots have a chopped chicken sandwich, an “adult” grilled cheese made with Brie and Gruyere and a couple of salad choices. $$ L D f HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2723 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries with a baseball theme highlight these suburban spots, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-9099, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-3980, 4590 Dixie Hwy., 447-4856, 4419 Cane Run Rd., 448-1109, 4901 Poplar Level Rd.,

BUFFALO WILD WINGS 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 10206 Westport Rd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464, 4917 Outer Loop, 964-5803. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D hf THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf COX'S HOT CHICKEN 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville 5903281. Taking over the space formerly occupied by Big Four Burgers, Cox’s positions itself as a family-friendly sports bar with burgers and sandwiches as well as chicken, with a Goodwood Brewing taproom on the second floor. $ B L D hpf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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969-5352. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h JEFF'S BURGER SHACK 14126 Dixie Hwy., 384-0972. The building was once an A&W outlet; now it is a locallyowned casual fast food spot offering freshly made burgers (with a wide choice of toppings), freshly-cut fries, and milkshakes. $ L D JOELLA’S HOT CHICKEN 3400 Frankfort Ave., 895-2235, 13401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1111. At this Nashville-style chicken emporium, diners will find traditional Southernfried chicken spiced medium, hot and hotter. House-made sides, of course, and local craft beers and wine, and freshsqueezed lemonade, too. $$ L D hpf KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013, 5603 Preston Hwy., 654-7707. $ L D h MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 3844834, 113 S. Seventh St., 749-6451. The unusual combination in the name sparks immediate interest; the consistently excellent offerings of both shellfish and meat patties keeps satisfied customers coming back. Choose from six different sauces for the mussels, and 12 clever twists on burgers. The downtown venue has an expanded menu and a handsome outdoor courtyard. L D hpfe OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisville-based chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L OSKAR'S SLIDER BAR 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 395-9010. Jesse and Liz Huot (Grind Burger Kitchen) expand on their burger concept with a new slider bar. Oskar’s (the name inspired by the Huots’ son, Oskar) offers over a dozen slider choices – chicken, fried fish and pork belly in addition to the expected ground beef mini-burgers. Fries and salads, too. $$ L D p RAILBIRDS HOT CHICKEN 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. Grab some wings or jumbo tenders at your choice of heat level or other nonspicy chicken dishes and sides like fries and slaws before you head back to the games. $ L D h RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040, 6811 Bardstown Rd., 654-7737, 5212 Dixie Hwy., 742-9035, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 822-1188, 12009 Shelbyville Rd., 434-7681, 1905 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-9441. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. Six locations in town now, all offering simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 948-9895. This Seattlebased chain serves up its well-regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations and S. Indiana. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf RED TOP GOURMET HOT DOGS 1127 Logan St., 6402032. The journey from street cart to food truck to storefront is complete. Ryan Cohee's all beef, nitrate- and preservative-free hotdogs can be found now in Shelby Park. Bison and Waygu beef choices, as well as vegan/ vegetarian-friendly dogs. Columbus-style sauerkraut balls, too. $ L D hp ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 618-1128, 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 7082798. With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbusbased wings-and-brews chain is now spreading its franchise reach across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its six local properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D hpf 56 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

ROYALS HOT CHICKEN 736 E. Market St., 919-7068, 10305 Taylorsville Rd, 749-2013. Ryan Rogers first pressure-fries his chicken, then, in the Nashville style, blankets it with a paste of oil and spices delivering mild to “Gonzo” heat. If you’re not in the mood for bird, salads and even Southern-fried tofu are on the menu. $$L D f

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L

SAVANNAH RESTAURANT 2750 S. Seventh St., 2425108. This modest little, near-West End spot provides neighborhood diners with wings, fried fish, burgers and fries. $ L D h

AROMA CAFÉ & BAR Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866-676-7463. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $$$ B L D p

SIX FORKS BURGER CO. 1270 S. Preston St., 779-1993 The name of this family-run, family-friendly spot in Shelby Park was inspired by the owners’ six children. Burgers, of course, with an expansive toppings bar. Also on the menu are a variety of sausages and hot dogs, sandwiches and fries topped 6 ways. $ L D

ASPIRE CAFÉ & JUICE BAR 332 W. Broadway, 804-4756. This African-soul food fusion restaurant, relocated in the Heyburn Building, offers vegetarian and vegan foods, including a specialty, a Nigerian stew. $ B L f

SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport) 363-2526. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has three Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open more area locations. $ L D f STEAK ‘N SHAKE 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak ‘n Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h THE CHICKEN BOX 5905 Terry Rd., 618-0430. This Pleasure Ridge Park restaurant offers six flavors of wings, all cooked to order: buffalo, extra hot, bbq, lemon pepper, hot garlic Parmesan and lemon pepper hot. The waffle biscuit has impressed fans. $ L D f THE CHILLBURGER 500 LaFollette Station Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 728-8283; 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 725-9157. These two Southern Indiana burger places tout freshly-ground USDA Choice beef, fresh-cut fries and milk shakes and sundaes from hormone-free dairy. Chicken and fish sandwiches, too. $ L D f THE EAGLE 1314 Bardstown Rd., 498-8420. This small Cincinnati-based chain serving fried chicken, five-cheese macaroni, house-made biscuits and other comfort food, has established itself firmly in the Highlands restaurant row. The three-season patio is a great place to enjoy the beer list. $ L D hpf W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 8979684. This locally owned and operated build-your-own burger joint has packed in fans at its location near Dupont Circle for over 30 years, serving substantial burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and offering more than 40 toppings on the lengthy condiments bar. $ L D h

ATLANTIC NO. 5 605 W. Main St., 883-3398. Owners Mary Wheatley and Rebecca Johnson offer fresh takes on breakfast and lunch in this sharp Main St. renovation. Eat in or take away hearty biscuits, ham slider breakfast sandwiches, bagels or house-made granola. At lunch choose simple grilled cheese or specialty sandwiches. $ B Br L pfe ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L D hf BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. Named after the owner’s dear, departed beagle, Boomer’s is a popular, low-key downtown deli in the heart of the museum district. Sandwiches, burger and fries, homemade chocolate cookies, and good coffee. $ L BORSALINO CAFÉ & DELI 3825 Bardstown Rd., 8075325. This Buechel store is somewhere between a coffee shop, a fancy bakery and a deli. You can stop in for your morning coffee and sweet bun to go, buy a cake for dessert or take away a stuffed pita for lunch. $ B L D hf CAFÉ 157 157 E. Main St., 548-9114. This little café downtown serves breakfast and lunch daily except Wednesdays, dinner on Thursday through Saturday, and Sunday brunch. The menu skews to Southern comfort foods, all fresh and scratch-made, including corned beef cured in-house. The owner ran Old Bridge Inn B&B, for many years. $$ B Br L D p

WHISKEY DRY 412 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!) 7497933. Ed Lee expands his local empire to Fourth Street Live! with this casual burger and whiskey bar. The menu features a suggested whiskey pairing for each burger from among the 200 whiskeys from America, Ireland, Japan and elsewhere. $$ L D hpf

CAFÉ 223 223 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1877. Carol and Steve Stembro, owners of Jeffersonville's Market Street Inn, have renovated a house near the Big Four Bridge, to provide sustenance for cross-river walkers and J’ville regulars, who will find baked goods and breakfast items in the morning, and paninis, salads, soups and hot and cold beverages for lunch. $ B L f

THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445, 3038 Hunsinger Ln., 618-0106. Wing Zone, with locations scattered across the eastern U.S., excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Tame to Nuclear Habanero. Burgers, fried shrimp and sides as well. $ L D hf

CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at this friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf

WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000, 2007 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7171. This Texas-based chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp ZAXBY’S (9 Locations) There are now 9 outlets in Louisville and Southern Indiana. The casual dining chain cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wingz and fingerz - that sort of thing. $ L D h

CAFÉ ON MEIGS 425 Meigs Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 2888515. The menu at this downtown J’ville lunch spot emphasizes fresh local ingredients and the avoidance of preservatives and processed ingredients. Although the usual suspects are there — chicken salad, roast beef sandwiches with Swiss cheese and red onion, Benedictine, grilled cheese, Cobb salad — all are done with integrity. $ L CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch or supper. $$ B L D fe CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot where owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as lasagna and Brie and cranberry-stuffed chicken. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L Df CHRISTI'S CAFÉ 12810 Dixie Hwy., 937-3110. This family-operated restaurant in Valley Station serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, all the dishes you know you want: omelets, hotcakes, wings, chili, bean soup, giant burgers, open-faced roast beef with mashed potatoes and liver and onions. $ B L D

to a former Portland firehouse and has opened a café serving breakfast and lunch. The seasonal menu includes grits, biscuits, soup, salads and sandwiches. $ B L p

Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistrostyle alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf

FULL STOP FILLING STATION 1132 E. St. Catherine St., 260-8046. This former car repair shop is now a grab and go coffee shop and deli, offering locally-sourced food, coffee and a few grocery items, a limited to-go beer section and some beers on tap. Café open until 5; kitchen closes at 2 p.m. $ B L p

JW CAFÉ & BAKERY 2301 Terra Crossing Blvd., 9075248. The bakery part of this East End spot offers scones and cupcakes and other expected bakery treats. The café part has a variety of lunch items, including Korean specialties. The smoked salmon salad has won fans quickly. $ B L f

GRACIOUS PLENTY 9207 US Hwy 42, 618-4755, 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 618-4755. Eat in or carry away fresh sandwiches, salads and soups, cookies and brownies at this Brownsboro Road deli and bakery, which also serves alcohol. Take away meals to heat up at home for dinner, too. The Prospect location is catering and carry-out only. $LDp

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f

CITY CAFÉ 222 Eastern Pkwy., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L

LA PECHE GOURMET TO GO AND CAFÉ 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Kathy Cary returns to her roots with this popular gourmet take-out counter, in the corner of her restaurant, Lilly’s. Featuring “tried and true” dishes like grilled chicken pasta, burgers, vegetarian sandwiches, chicken salad, and a dessert case that always includes strawberry pie. $$ B L D

CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. This family-owned and operated, classier-than-the-averagestrip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 30 years. The Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlic-basil chicken pizza) and dishes like the Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D hp

LE PETIT CAFÉ 1325 Bardstown Rd., 749-0883. The space that was Roux now houses this tiny crèperie and sandwich spot serving breakfast and lunch. There are savory and sweet crepes, as well as smoothies and French toast. $$ B LDh

CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 8961488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D

MELROSE CAFÉ 13206 Hwy. 42, 409-6784. Kristin Fults’s breakfast and lunch spot sits just on the Louisville side of the Jefferson-Oldham County line. Fults named her suburban cafe in homage to the late, lamented Melrose Inn, which was located nearby. Fans find much satisfaction with cooked-to-order breakfasts, hearty sandwiches and a convivial atmosphere. $$ B L D

CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f

NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770. This long-time favorite offers hearty and unusual breakfasts, satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe

CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 2469339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f CUP OF JOY 2507 Bank St., 919-9074. This coffee shop and café, located in a former bar, is a project of Haven Ministries and run mostly by volunteers. According to founder Esther Lyon, the food is “homemade, down-home cooking … biscuits and gravy, homemade potato soup, chicken and dumplings, turnovers, pastries.” Nothing on the menu tops $5. $ B L DERBY CAFÉ EXPRESS 704 Central Ave. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 637-1111. You can get both grab-and-go eats, and made-to-order breakfast and lunch items before or after your visit to the Derby Museum. At breakfast, choose from hot and cold breakfast items, fresh pastries and kolache. The lunch menu offers deli-style sandwiches, paninis, soups, salads, Derby Pie (of course) and Benedictine. There is also a full bar. $ B L pf THE EARLY EDITION 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. Behind the soon-to-open Dos Gringos, owners Beau Kerley and Tim Smith are operating what they call “a greasy spoon with a touch of Mexican taste.” It’s a breakfast diner serving until 11:30 am, when Dos Gringos starts its lunch service. $ B FARM TO FORK CAFÉ 2425 Portland Ave., 365-3276. Farm to Fork, for many years a premier catering company known for its Southern favorites made from scratch from regionally-sourced ingredients, has moved its operations

KEVIN'S PICNIC 11505 Park Rd., 690-3310. PICNIC opened as a café, but owner Kevin Grangier has rethought his concept. This Anchorage property is now a bakery and catering business only. No more salads and sandwiches, but there are plenty of pastries, cakes, pies and other baked goods. $ B Br L pf

ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L

HAYMARKET BISTRO 300 E. Market St., 779-6825. Atria Senior Living has moved its employee café to the first floor and opened it to the public, serving lunch to downtown workers. Haymarket Bistro's menu includes sandwiches, pizza, salads and soups, including unusual offerings such as a ramp pesto and a grilled portobello wrap. $$ L HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 883-0203. You can order breakfast anytime at both locations, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h HOT BOX EATERY 438 W. Market St., 822-3995. Try their fresh soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps and daily specials. Menu choices include a Brie and salami wrap, Indonesian chicken peanut satay, pork schnitzel, a turkey club wrap and a gyro — in other words, an appealingly diverse selection. $ L J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

PROSPECT CAFÉ 9550 US Hwy. 42, 708-2151. Conveniently located at the intersection of River Rd. and Hwy. 42, stop in for hot sandwiches (Cuban, Reuben, grilled Italian, Bourbon BBQ) or cold deli stuff — club sandwich, egg, tuna or chicken salad, or soups like chicken and dumplings. Chess bars and banana pudding too. $ L PURRFECT DAY CAT CAFÉ 1741 Bardstown Rd., 9165051. One room is a wine bar with snacks and small bites provided by local bakeries. The other room, by reservation, is a Cat Room, populated by cats needing homes, provided by the Humane Society. Bring in a drink, and play and cuddle with kitties — and maybe take one home. $ B L D hp QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 5830273. $ B L f RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, with Cuban, Jamaican, Greek and Middle Eastern dishes. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf

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RED HOG 2622 Frankfort Ave., 384-0795. Kit Garrett and Bob Hancock, owners of Blue Dog Bakery, now also have this butcher shop and café offering artisan cured meats in Crescent Hill. Pasture-raised pork, beef, bison, lamb and poultry are available. The café serves small plates and pizzas fired from their wood-burning oven. The bar offers craft cocktails and 12 beer taps. $$ L D pf RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 893-5118. This perennially popular little East End eatery, long a goto choice for breakfast and lunch, now provides dinner on Friday nights too. $ Br L D f SHAHAR CAFÉ 1511 Bardstown Rd., 653-7083. Anselmo’s Italian gives way to this eclectic eatery whose owners have devised a menu of Euro-Asian entrees and snacks. The wide-ranging menu includes beef kabobs, Russian piroshki, samosas and poutine. Weekend entrée specials may include plov (a central Asian rice and meat dish), shashlik (similar to shish kebab), pelmeni (Russian dumplings) and borscht. $ B Br L D THE SILLY AXE CAFÉ 2216 Dundee Rd., 290-7197. A completely gluten-free restaurant. Most recently home to Diorio’s Pizza, Silly Axe (a play on celiac disease) has a deli counter and a selection of pre-made items for take-away. The menu offers meat, vegan and vegetarian choices, daily quesadillas and five house sandwiches. $$ L D pf STARLIGHT CAFÉ 19816 Huber Rd., Starlight IN, 9239813. This café in the Winery building at Huber Farm provides light lunch items such as seasonal soups, Rueben sandwiches, a turkey club, chicken salad or artisan flatbread pizza. Dine inside in the dining room or outside on the patio that overlooks the 550-acre farm. Huber wines and cocktails made from spirits distilled on the premises available too. $$ L D pf THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. Long-time local restaurateurs Sal and Cindy Rubino have sold their Paristown building and business, which eventually will be relocated nearby. The new owners, Paristown Food and Beverage Group, (operators of Buckhead Mountain Grill) pledge to keep the menu and the ambiance that the Rubino’s have developed; the Rubino’s will continue to run the busy breakfast and lunch spot as it currently is until the Paristown entertainment development is completed. . $ B Br L f

hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f

cocktails and beers. There’s non-alcoholic coffee, too, and eggs however you like them. $$ B Br L pf

VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-4338. $LD

BLIND SQUIRREL 592 N. English Station Rd., 384-6761. This American-style restaurant is part of the King Louis Sports complex. The 400-seat, two-story dining facility boasts outdoor seating overlooking the sand volleyball courts, 27 TVs inside, a performance venue, a cigar humidor and outdoor smoking lounge. Chef Chris Goss serves up his take on American family standards: burgers, sandwiches, pizza and so on. $$ L D hpfe

WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community reentry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts for under $5; a lunch buffet is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too. It’s a do-gooder place that serves good food. $ L D WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449, 121 S. Floyd St., 690-5925, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN 913-4735. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s fifth outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE AT LOGAN STREET MARKET 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 581-8560. Susan Hershberg was one of the first to sign onto the market idea when she moved her wholesale bakery production kitchen there last year. Her booth will sell artisan breads, breakfast pastries and desserts. Opens at 8 am for grab-and-go breakfast, with specials planned for take-away light dinner items for homebound commuters. $$B Br L f WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 Caterer/restaurateur Susan Hershberg’s popular bakery and café operation, a welcome stop for those wanting artisanal breads, scones and croissants, now serves full breakfasts (Tuscan egg sandwich, breakfast grain bowl, frittata, smoked salmon plate) as well as sandwiches and paninis, side salads and more from the cafe. $ B L ZEGGZ AMAZING EGGS 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 8821650. This quick-service breakfast and lunch spot offers five house omelets (plus the chance to build your own), three variations on eggs Benedict, as well as biscuits and gravy, croque madames, waffles and pancakes. Luncheon fare includes a B.A.L.T (the ‘a’ is for avocado), salads and soups. $$ B Br L pf

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 9237770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have branched out to three locations. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L

THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Since 1975 this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f

APPLEBEE’S 4717 Dixie Hwy., 448-1399, 10006 Will Way, 231-1661, 4535 Outer Loop, 969-1228, 771 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-3594, 3030 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1600. This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp

THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L

ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 2392200, 302 Bullitt Ln., 425-0077. A lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp

THE TABLE 1800 Portland Ave., 708-2505. This West End non-profit, social entrepreneurship experiment serves locally-grown, fresh food and operates under a pay-whatyou-can model. Pay suggested prices if you can, or if not, contribute your time. Or donate more to “pay it forward.” The menu offers soups, salads, sandwiches and sides. $ L D

BISCUIT BELLY 900 E. Main St., 409-5729, 3723 Lexington Rd., 690-2945. Chad and Lauren Coulter, of Louvino fame, have added a new St. Matthews branch of their popular breakfast and breakfast/lunch-oriented eatery. At both locations you’ll find over-sized biscuit sandwiches filled with chicken, country ham or brisket; oatmeal, hash and Nutella toast, as well as an adult beverage program that includes beers and coffee-inflected

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves

58 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

BOOMTOWN 110 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 590-1314. A third restaurant takes over the former home of the legendary South Side Inn, Boomtown focuses on affordable classic dishes: several burgers, including a wild game option, steak dinner with two sides and pork chops. $$ L D pf BOUJIE BISCUIT 1813 Frankfort Ave., 269-8426. This tiny Clifton space advertises, “Scratch-made comfort food on a handcrafted buttermilk biscuit.” The menu is mostly sandwiches, served on oversized biscuits—ham and threecheese biscuit, chicken pot pie biscuit and three different burger biscuits. Every sandwich is served in a cardboard to-go box, which most diners find they need. $$ B L f BRICK HOUSE TAVERN + TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brick House, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D hpf BROOKE & BILLY’S BITES, BOURBONS & BREWS 751 Vine St., 583-9165. The restored 19th-century building has a secluded patio and revamped dining room in a cool, out-of-the-way neighborhood—and, it now has a new identity. The menu refocuses on house specials like fried chicken and an extensive selection of sandwiches and small bites. $$$ L D pf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN 2842919. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of all-American fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. Both locations house big square bars with a multitude of TV screens for excellent sports viewing. $$ L D hpf CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 5895200. The Galt House’s quick and casual second-floor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a latenight burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS RIVERSIDE GRILLE 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILLE 505 Marriott Dr. (Radisson Hotel), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D p CHEDDAR’S SCRATCH KITCHEN 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallasbased chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 6949445, 3007 Poplar Level Rd., 638-5202, 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-3000. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D h COMMON TABLE 2234 W Market St., 873-2566. A dash of social justice adds savor to the food at this restaurant run as a culinary arts training program by Catholic Charities. The kitchen only serves lunch Tuesdays and Thursdays and uses fresh produce grown by refugees in a sister program's incubator farm. Offerings include boxed lunches and a seasonal menu with a “worldly” mix of dishes including Thai, Cuban, Pakistani and Bosnian. $ L CORELIFE EATERY 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 670-5680. This Syracuse-based franchise offers vegetable and grains bowls, bone and vegetable broth, and grass-fed steak, chicken and tofu power plates. $$ L D

Commuters trundling home to the suburbs can mingle with Prospect residents, river rats and parched kayakers docking out back on Harrod’s Creek. Look for an expanded bar food menu, brown bag lunches to go and late-night food service. $ L D hpfe INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h JOE'S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 4347470. The Lyndon landmark has returned to its old spot, replacing Red Barn Kitchen, which had replaced Joe’s. The bar is rebuilt and another stuffed moose has been found. But Olé Restaurant Group remains a partner, providing the food: smoked wings, brisket chili, cheese fritters, a mac and cheese burger and a daily lunch plate, all at prices that will appeal to Joe’s original fan base. $$ L D hpf

RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 8973900. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp

GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. The specialties here are sliders, meatballs and burgers made from ground exotic meats. Start with bone marrow or fried frog legs, try some wild boar chorizo or bison tongue sliders, or build your own burger from kangaroo, venison, alpaca or prime Angus beef, with bun choices ranging from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. $$ D f

S BAR 1442 Dixie Hwy., 439-6574. You can get superfood smoothies and shakes at this South End spot, but the unique draw is the selection of “spuds” — loaded baked potatoes topped with things like chicken and broccoli Alfredo, Philly cheese steak, pulled pork and Buffalo chicken. $ L D

GANDER, AN AMERICAN GRILL 111 S. English Station Rd., 915-8484. Chris and Anne Mike, of Goose Creek Diner, have opened Gander, An American Grill, serving steaks, burgers, pasta and sandwiches — "a little bit of everything that makes America what it is," according to Mike. $$$ Br L D hpf

HARROD’S CREEK TAVERN 6313 River Rd., 919-8812.

NOODLES & COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 632-0102, 4300 Summit Plaza Dr., 804-4724, 319 Cardinal Blvd., 632-2846. This Colorado-based fast-casual chain offers an eclectic noodle array: Asian style (pad Thai, Bangkok curry), pastas (Tuscan fresca, penne rossa) — or select from a lineup of savory sandwiches and salads.. $ L Df

PORTAGE HOUSE 117 E. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0435. Portage House, in a historic home along the river, is the second restaurant of Dallas McGarity, ownerchef of The Fat Lamb in the Highlands. Here on the sunny-side of the river his eclectic but thoughtful menu offers kim chee risotto fritters, griddled meatloaf and Nutella-mascarpone mousse. $$$ L D pf

FIRST WATCH 201 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6075, 960 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1955, 1205 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 575-3447, 2225 Taylorsville Rd., 4447744. This Florida-based chain offers both traditional breakfast fare (fried eggs, sausage), proprietary specials, like French toast Monte Cristo (made with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese), crepes with plenty of fillings and healthful dishes like egg white omelets and cranberry nut oatmeal. Soups, salads and a big choice of sandwiches for lunch. $ B L

GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D

NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp

OLD LOUISVILLE CHILI BOWL 501 W. Oak St., 3840745. As the name suggests, here you will find chili— regular, vegetarian, hot or white. Burgers (including a Jersey burger), hot dogs, salads and sides as well—all at bargain prices. Open Thursdays-Saturdays only. $ L D

DOUBLE DOGS 13307 Shelbyville Rd., 244-4430. Double Dogs, a Bowling Green, Ky.-based chain with four locations, has its first Louisville-area restaurant in Middletown. Double Dogs describes itself as “a family friendly restaurant with a sports atmosphere,” serving a variety of appetizers, sandwiches, hot dogs, burgers and pizza. $ L D hpf

GREEN DISTRICT SALADS 126 Breckenridge Ln., 4095293, 225 S. Fifth St., 409-5293. This quick-service restaurant focusing on build-your-own chopped salads (or select from a menu). Lunch diners can opt for house-made soups and wraps, too. $$ L D

NAÏVE 1001 E. Washington St., 749-7856. This Butchertown vegetarian restaurant has been catering for some months in preparation for its opening as a sit-down restaurant. Its dishes include savory rice bowls, burritos, frittatas and quiches, savory toasts, salads and sandwiches. $$ D pf

O’CHARLEY’S (5 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp

DENNY’S 4030 Dutchmans Ln., 896-2669, 434 Eastern Pkwy., 636-2538. What better place for travelers to get breakfast than Denny’s? This venerable chain knows its customers, pleasing them with familiar diner food in big portions. The late-night scene in this 24-hour refuge for the hungry makes for colorful fun. $$ B Br L D h

GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach reflects its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald. There are two breakfast buffets, American and Continental, as well as a la carte choices from the griddle or from a “Healthy Sunrise” menu. $$ B L hp

MOYA'S AMERICAN KITCHEN 10000 Linn Station Rd., 496-6692. The menu of this modest place lists Cajun/Creole dishes, hamburgers, pasta, seafood and desserts. $$ L D pf

KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where Farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf MIRIN 2011 Frankfort Ave., 742-8911. Chef Griffin Paulin brings his love for Asian street foods to Clifton. Mirin’s menu features ramen noodle dishes, Vietnamese-style banh mi sandwiches, Chinese-style steamed bao buns, tuna tataki and Sichuan shrimp. $$ D

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta know it is well worth the trip up into the Knobs above New Albany to enjoy the conviviality of his restaurant, and his always satisfying take on classic American steak, sandwiches and seafood. $$ L D p SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 340 Whittington Pkwy., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SUPERCHEFS 1702 Bardstown Rd., 409-8103. The funky comic book-themed decor in Darnell Ferguson’s Highlands restaurant celebrates super heroes during www.foodanddine.com Winter 2019 59

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breakfast and lunch, and super villains at dinner. His menu reflects his super-sized sensibilities: the SuperChefs Omelet, the Pancake Platter, and a seafood pizza with a petite lobster tail on top. $$ B Br L pf TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 5853577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf THE PIAZZA Caesar’s Southern Indiana, Elizabeth IN, 866676-7463. $$ B Br L D hp THE SPOT 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., 690-3011. The restaurant connected with the Ramada Plaza hotel, The Spot serves breakfast through dinner: eggs and pancakes, mozzarella sticks and fried calamari, pastas, grilled chicken and seafood. $ B L D p h TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. On both sides of the river this breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a downto-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 4518944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h

8TH STREET PIZZA 800 E. Eighth St., New Albany IN, 645-6974. This “boutique, pay-it-forward pizza shop and ministry” serves New York style pizza with a “pay what you can afford” concept. Pay the full suggested price, pay what you can afford to pay, or pay the full amount of the suggested meal price plus a little extra to "pay it forward”. $LDf ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 367-0580. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 945-1149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (14 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 14 locations. $$ L D h BLAZE FAST-FIRE’D PIZZA 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8957800, 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 822-3677, 4055 Summit Plaza Dr., 915-8731, 1225 Veterans Pkwy., Clarsville IN, 406-4347. At this California-based pizza franchise you customize your own pie from a lineup of meat and vegetable toppings, cheeses and several sauces. The pie bakes in just 2 minutes in a flaming hearth oven. There are ready-to-order signature pies also for those who can’t make up their minds. $$ L D p hf BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 935-5540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, 60 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & WATCH BAR 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4171, 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-4111. The Boombozz Pizza empire is undergoing a rebranding and redesign of the stores to enhance the sports-viewing, pizza-earting, beer-drinking experience. Look for the new jumbo stuffed tater tots and game day specials on beer and snacks. The Herr Lane store is currently closed for renovations. $$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA & ITALIAN 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D hpf CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEF'S CUT PIZZERIA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 265-1320. This reasonably priced Lyndon pizza place has sandwiches too, from chili dogs to turkey clubs, and pasta dishes. $ L Dp CHUBBY RAY’S 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. This family restaurant has grown from a small mostly carry-out spot to a large (400 seat) Jeffersontown institution. The menu offerings have expanded as well. In addition to signature pizzas, you can find quesadillas and rooster wings, burgers and subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D hpf COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 742-8200, 11615 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0106, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Middletown and airport travelers now partake in what St. Matthews diners have enjoyed for a few years–excellent pizzas made in coal-fired ovens burning at 800 degrees F, crisping the crust in 4 minutes and “leoparding” it with black spots. Toppings are fresh and regionally-sourced. $$ L D hpf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1836 Mellwood Ave., 890-6331. Dan McMahon sells generously-topped pizzas at the walk-up venue in the courtyard of the Mellwood Arts Center. The choices are mostly traditional with outliers like Hawaiian and Kentucky Hot Brown. His butter-drenched garlic breadsticks, aka “Cracksticks,” are a fan favorite. McMahon’s pizzas can also be found at Tim Tam Tavern. $$ L D h DERBY CITY PIZZA 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373, 2500 Crittenden Dr., 384-4777, 10619 Manslick Rd., 7423940, 2331 Brownsboro Rd., 290-0677. It is always nice when a business’s name is self-explanatory. But the menu offers burgers and wings, too, along with toasted subs and pasta dishes. The Brownsboro Road location is carry-out only. $$ L D hpf DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. Residents in St. Matthews and in the Highlands can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D hpf FAT JIMMY’S 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Middletown spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h FIRENZA PIZZA 12406 Lagrange Rd., 999-2099. This Virginia-based chain touts pizza dough made in-house

daily, and a total of 40 topping combinations chosen along with six sauces, seven cheeses, nine meats and 17 vegetables. Pies are made-to-order and baked in stonehearth ovens. $$ L D pf THE GRAIN HAUS 41 W. First St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Part of Floyd County Brewing, the separate building across the court yard boasts a wood-fired pizza oven and a rotating list of guest beers. $$ D hpfe HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ LDh JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000, 2500 Bardstown Rd., 458-5387, 10494 Westport Rd., 4261181. Now with seven Louisville outlets, this Detroitbased chain offers sit-down service and carry-out. The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 749-8400. This chain out of Atlanta, GA with its roots starting in Manlius, NY has settled in the neighborhood of Norton Commons. They offer an array of New York-style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (13 Locations) This pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 2469517. A pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishment. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h MAC'S DOUGH HOUSE 10509 Watterson Trl., 694-2322, 636 Barret Ave. (inside Mile Wide Beer Co.), 409-8139. At the J’town location, choose from a dozen pizzas with clever names, or mac 'n' cheese variations like buffalo chicken or a spicy version made with Sriracha and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos. A second location, beneath the silos at Mile Wide Brewery, offers a concise menu of personal-size pizzas, salads and appetizers that pairs well with Mile Wide’s tap list. There’s even a Nutella dessert pizza. $$ L D hp MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D h MIMO’S NEW YORK STYLE PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, New Albany IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix. Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p MOD PIZZA 3085 Breckenridge Ln., 915-7810. The first Louisville location of this Seattle chain makes artisan-style pizza and salads tossed to order. Its niche is individual pizzas served quickly and with a choice of over 30 toppings, all for one price. Choices are named in typical West Coast fashion: Calexico, Caspian, Lucy Sunshine, and so forth. $ L D pf MOMMA’S PIZZA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike, Jeffersonville IN, 697-3224. Create your own pizza style here or choose one of the specialty pies, such as the Jesse James, with jalapeños, spicy sausage and pepperoni and

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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marinara fire sauce, the ranch chicken or Momma’s vegetable pizza. $$ D MOZZA PI 12102 Lagrange Rd., 890-4832. Tom Edwards began MozzaPi several years ago as one of the first food trucks in Louisville. At his Anchorage pizza place he drafts artisanal pies from flour he mills himself. He makes bread too, and gives courses in artisanal baking. $$$ L D pf MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 10035 Dixie Hwy., 632-2504, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw. $$ L D NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. The remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D h OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, along with amusing appetizers (jalapeño cheese pretzels, Italian nachos), filling salads, sandwiches and burgers. Check out the imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 882-1776. You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? You can get it in the Eastern suburbs near I265. Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 4542711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 653-7243. Impellizzeri’s massive pies, loved for a generation, are the draw but there is also a full menu of Italian-inspired meals including hoagie sandwiches and pasta dishes at all four locations. $$$$ L D hpf

There are no conveyor belts here. Well-trained pizza makers give each pie individual attention, the toppings and accents (like fresh basil) are fine quality, and the assortment of crusts — wheat, thin, rising, deep dish, cauliflower, broccoli — is first rate. The lunch special, ten bucks for a big fresh salad with a generous personal pizza is a steal. $$ L D f SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. In addition to generously-topped pizzas, you can find panini, subs, burgers, and fried fish at this inviting spot in a Lyndon strip mall. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 589-8686, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 491-3663. Ready for takeout or eatin, both the downtown storefront and its suburban sister site offer good, standard pizza and other familiar ItalianAmerican dishes. $$ L D hpf SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D hf SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919, 4005 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their Philly Cheesesteaks and massive slices of pizza has added a third location. All are open until 5 am nightly Wednesday through Saturday. $ L D h THE CORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he THE POST 1045 Goss Ave., 635-2020. Germantown has long needed a classic New York-style pizza joint, and this spot, in a former VFW post, has provided it. Pizza is available by slice or whole pie, mostly classic tomato sauced varieties, but a few oddities, like the chicken dinner pizza with Buffalo-based sauce, chicken, cheddar, onion and ranch drizzle. Calzones, subs and salads, too.$$ D h p TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. The long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D

TOONERVILLE TAVERN 1201 S. First St., 635-6960. The building sits on the corner of Oak and First, but the clever signs direct you down Oak st. to the new entrance. Toonerville Deli has been renamed, and the food focus of the Tavern is pizza, with many of the deli sandwiches also available. $$ L D hp TOPP'T HANDCRAFTED PIZZA 373 Professional Court, New Albany IN, 725-8891, 323 W. Cardinal Blvd., 2901379. This Elizabethtown-based fast-casual pizza and salad concept serves fast-fired (in an 800-degree oven), handcrafted pizzas and made-to-order chopped salads. The thin crust dough is made onsite daily in original, wheat and gluten-free versions. One price regardless of the number of toppings. $$ L D f UNION 15 5205 New Cut Rd., (Colonial Gardens), 6537494. The name of this pizza and tap house refers to Kentucky joining the Union as the 15th state; it joins El Taco Luchador as the first of several restaurants planned for the renovated Colonial Gardens. The menu includes Chicago thin crust pizza, wings and sandwiches. The bar has more than 50 beers, wines and bourbon on tap. $$ L D hpf WEST POINT PIZZA 407 South St., West Point KY, 2639371 If you find yourself on the downriver side of town, across the Salt River, and hungry, but you don’t know for what, stop in here. In addition to pizzas made with fresh dough every day, you will find tacos and burgers as well. $$ D f WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425, 3348 Hikes Ln., 9075542. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all four of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D

PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (10 Locations) $$ L D PARLOUR 131 W. Chestnut St., Jeffersonville IN, 914-7400. Parlour, another Big Four Bridge-inspired eatery, offers 40+ beers on tap, a covered outdoor bar with a fire pit, an upstairs bar in the renovated 1870s-era house and green space for games like cornhole, horseshoes and bocce. $$ L D hpf PIZZA BAR 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 9158113. You will find New York-style pizzas by the slice or the whole pie, appetizers, salads and grinder sandwiches at this replacement for Birracibo. $$ L D hpf PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Old Louisville hipsters have long needed a nearby pizza joint. Now they have it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies, along with appetizers, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D hf PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9454405, 1701 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-8286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. We heartily recommend the barbecue pizza. $$ LD PIZZA LUPO 1540 Frankfort Ave., 409-8440. Max Balliet, the owner of Holy Molé taco truck, now also has Lupo, a casual Italian restaurant where he bakes up pizzas on a fire-engine-red wood-fired oven. Along with pizza, Lupo offers a variety of handmade pastas in a restored 19th century Butchertown building. $$ D h pf PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D hpf PRIMO'S PIZZA 2043 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-7072. Based on a recent visit, this new spot is off to a great start.

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. And where else can you play miniature golf while waiting for the smoker to finish? $ L D hpf AMERICAN SMOKEHOUSE STADIUM 5580 Hwy. 62, Jeffersonville IN, 282-6700. This Southern Indiana BBQ joint does the usual stuff – brisket, pulled pork and chicken. But also look for the smoked prime rib, burnt ends, smoked lamb gyros or fried tofu. $ L D hp B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 9513900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BABIE BAC'Z GOOD GRILL 8533 Terry Rd., 619-1873. This far South End family-owned barbecue restaurant smokes up baby back ribs and rib tips, half chickens and wings and several sandwiches, including the Bacz Attack, which combines ham, bacon and pork. $$ L D BABY MAE'S 1817 Graybrook Ln., New Albany IN, 9147040. Barbecue and soul food in the old Mom & Pop’s Cone Corner building. Baby Mae’s reasonably priced menu includes everyone’s comfort foods: ribs, pulled pork, smoked turkey, mac and cheese, home fries and the “grandaddy of chili dogs.” $ L D BIG BEN’S BBQ 600 Quartermaster Center, Jeffersonville IN, 284-4453. This family run BBQ joint is now at the Quartermaster Center, smoking up a storm and impressing locals who recommend Johnnie’s Smokin Ribs, Joecille’s Backbone (brisket tips), Big Ben’s shredded pork sandwich and Alvin’s Wild-Side shredded chicken sandwich. $$ L D f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ L D f CHECK'S BBQ & BLUES 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2446868. The owners of Germantown’s Checks Café have opened this BBQ joint in Middletown, featuring live blues bands on weekends. Some Check’s Café standards (chicken livers, fried pork chops), along with ribs, pulled pork and brisket, as sandwiches and full dinners comprise the menu. $ L D hpe CITY BARBEQUE 329 Whittington Pkwy., 996-8003. This Ohio-based BBQ chain specializes in brisket, but doesn’t neglect pulled pork (served with slaw on top) and St. Louis ribs. It also smokes turkey breast, chicken and sausage. $$ L Dpfe FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 4932812. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf FDKY BBQ 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 785-4273. The logo shows that “FD” stands for Fire Department — after all, those guys know all about smokin’. Eat dinner in or order a couple of pounds of pulled pork, marinated pulled chicken, brisket or smoked sausage, firehouse chili or Res Q stew and all the required side dishes to go. Ribs on Wednesdays and Friday calls for fried fish. $$ L D f FEAST BBQ 909 E. Market St., 749-9900, 10318 Taylorsville Rd., 749-6534. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue to both NuLu and Jeffersontown. He has formulas for brining times and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and the smoke from overwhelming the meats. $ B L D hpf FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in

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GALLEY AT GOODWOOD 636 E. Main St., 584-2739. Goodwood Brewing’s downtown production facility and comfortable taproom now offers a menu designed to pair with its liquid fare. Start with bowls of chili or burgoo, grab some wings or tacos, or one of the smoked meat sandwiches. $$ L D e GUY FIERI'S SMOKEHOUSE 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live!), 919-7299. The latest creation of the Food TV’s bad boy chef caused some serious musing about the meaning of “celebrity” chefs to local eating. But see the hoopla for yourself, and try some of the fried chicken brined in pickle juice, brisket with pomegranate, sorghum-glazed pork chops or Triple Crown grilled cheese sandwich. $$ L D hpf HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D HOLY SMOKES BAR-B-QUE 7508 Preston Hwy., 9685657. The former Bootleg Bar-B-Q franchise on Preston Hwy. has become Holy Smokes Bar-B-Que. Owner Mark Weatherholt smokes his wings for three hours, his ribs and chicken for five, and his pork lingers overnight. He does brown sugar wings, too. $ L D JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texasstyle barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ LDf LOUIE’S HOT CHICKEN & BARBECUE 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 709-4274. The chicken here ranges through 4 levels of heat, the hottest using the notorious ghost pepper. BBQ choices include pulled pork and brisket and smoked wings. Outside, there are picnic tables, inside, a custom bar with Bourbon barrel lid stools. $ L D f MACK BROS BBQ 2700 Rockford Ln., 384-4590. This family owned and operated restaurant serves ribs, rib tips, chicken and sides, including a fan favorite: cornbread salad. $$ L D MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 9337707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty babyback ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D hpf MARK T'S SLAB HOUSE 4912 Preston Hwy., 962-1069. That would be slabs of ribs, of course. A wonderfully direct name for a barbecue restaurant. Several drum-style smokers out front exude a savory cloud, attesting to the work being done inside those drums. $ L D MARTIN'S BAR-B-QUE JOINT 3408 Indian Lake Dr., 2424666, 984 Barret Ave., 242-0020. Pretty famous in Tennessee, Martin’s has 2 locations where Louisvillians can now savor the meats smoked in the open pit (the whole hogs take 24 hours). All dishes, meats, sides and even sauces are made in-house daily. For a different kind of treat, try the smoked turkey sandwich. $$ L D pf MISSION BBQ 4607 Shelbyville Rd., 206-3331, 1213 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 269-3860. The National Anthem is played every day at noon at this Baltimorebased chain, which makes a point of supporting soldiers, firefighters, police officers and other first responders. Look for Texas-inspired brisket, smoked turkey, pulled chicken and pork, and even smoked salmon. There are also ribs, of course, sandwiches and scratch-made sides. $$ L D pf MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 290-7998. The St.

Matthews spot garnered so many barbecue fans that a second outlet opened in the East End for the overflow. Knot on your bib for Kansas City-style smoked pork and beef ribs (a house specialty), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. Momma's “2% for Louisville” program steadily donates 2% of earnings to local charities. $$ D f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f PORKLAND BBQ 2519 St. Cecilia St., 890-5988. Created by the non-profit group, Love City, Porkland BBQ’s proceeds benefit community programs for youth and aspiring entrepreneurs. Look for pulled pork and pulled chicken sandwiches, fried fish, rib tips, side items and desserts. A Portland specialty, smoked bologna sandwiches, too. $ L D RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out-only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 11-6 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by the sandwich or by the pound. $ L D RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe RUBBIN’ BUTTS BBQ 8007 Highway 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-7266. Up the road a ways you will find this “traditional” BBQ joint with some house specialties not so traditional: smoked deviled eggs, BBQ pork queso and their signature, the BBQ Pig-E-Chonga, a flour shell stuffed with baked beans, cheese, and pulled pork, then deep fried and smothered in queso and BBQ sauce. $ L D SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 363-3227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 4917570. This Stony Brook-area eatery combines a sports-bar with a barbecue concept. Its large and varied menu includes wings and burgers, steaks and pork chops, and several takes on mac ‘n’ cheese, as well as righteous ribs. $$ L D hp THE WRIGHT HOUSE BBQ + EATERY 638 Providence Way, Clarsville IN, 656-0941. Dalephonia and LaFond Wright have taken over the space that had been Shawn's BBQ. Dale makes the sides while LaFond prepares the baked chicken, pulled pork and chicken, burgers, smoked sausage, pork chops and meatloaf, carrying on the cooking lessons learned from their grandmothers. $ L D

321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. The dining and drinks complex on the corner of Third and Main offers something for everyone. This is the deli component (the others are an ice cream shop and a Bourbon bar), which strives to blend the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South. Lunch on nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $ L D f ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. This venerable lunch spot has been recharging the energies of downtown workers for over four decades. Brian Goodwin, son of the late founder and owner, has brightened and modernized the space, and overhauled the menu, looking forward to decades more of lunchtime service. $ L

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BARRY’S CHEESESTEAKS & MORE 7502 Preston Hwy., 883-2874, 1161 S. Second St., 618-2288. Barry’s version of the classic Philly street food has been getting raves from self-anointed cheesesteak mavens, who approve of his meat, bread and the cheese sauce choices. He now has a second, larger space in Old Louisville. $ L D

DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102-1/2 Cannons Ln., 8952863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sitin breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L

BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ B L

DOWNTOWNER DELI 428 W. Market St., 822-3572. This popular nosh spot adds another choice for the working lunch crowd. The soups, salads, sandwiches and wraps have quickly made fans here as well as in its original Madison, IN. location by offering both savory tastes and worth-it portions. $ L f

BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1158. The bagel/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully-staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L

FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3473, 4905 Outer Loop, 749-4257, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 8834168. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRANK'S MEAT & PRODUCE 3342 Preston Hwy., 3633989. Frank’s has been around a long time, treating those in the know to piled-high deli sandwiches for prices so reasonable it might seem you stepped into a time warp. There are steaks and chops and produce and other groceries, but it is best known for lunchtime service, where the long lines move fast, and the constant turnover ensures freshness of sandwiches and soups. $ L D

CHICAGO STEAK & LEMONADE 4501 Cane Run Rd., 384-4291, 2124 W. Broadway, 450-5300, 5049 Poplar Level Rd., 966-6940. This local mini-chain serves a variety of Philly cheese steaks, gyros, lemon-pepper fish dinners and wings. The lemonade comes in a passel of different flavor combos. $ L D h

GALAN'S MEAT MARKET & DELI 2801 W. Market St., 614-8514. This old-school butcher shop also offers piledhigh deli sandwiches and sides such as German potato salad or sour cream macaroni and cheese salad. Eat-in at the handful of small tables or take away. $$ B L D

COLD SMOKE BAGELS 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 309-4269. Four kinds every day, with a schmear of your choice. Bagels, sandwiches and the weekend brunch highlights latkes. $ B Br L f

HARVEY’S CHEESE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), (512) 269-8127. Lots of cheeses to choose from over the counter. At lunch, grilled cheese sandwiches (as exotic as you want) and daily blackboard specials. Call ahead to

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

reserve an artistically-arranged and tasty party tray of cheese, charcuterie and fruit. $$ L D f HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D f JASON’S DELI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101. Don’t look for a New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that include cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $LD JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (11 Locations) This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LADY TRON’S 147 E. Market St., New Albany, IN 725-9510. Owner Summer Seig has created an eclectic sci-fi theme for her soup and sandwich diner. Outside is Lady Tron, a smiling robot with red hair and a yellow apron; inside, you can find seasonal soups and sandwiches. $ B L D LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f

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LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago style hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a fair price. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This familyowned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 37 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand three-deep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f LOUISVILLE VEGAN FOODS 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). Run by the folks at the now-defunct Morels Café, here you can find the original vegan jerky in various flavors, vegan baked goods and some of the former Morels’s other popular dishes. $$ B L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-2700. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5610024. $ B L MCALISTER’S DELI (10 Locations) Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 4581668, 110 W. Chestnut St. (U fo L Med Center), 2132409. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout - it packs in a few crowded tables - it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare at both the Highlands and downtown locations. $ L NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ BL PANERA BREAD CO. (11 Locations) Warm breads finishbaked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ BLDf PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 896-8918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PAYNE STREET BAKEHOUSE 225 S. Spring St., 8958323. Nancy’s Bagel Grounds has remodeled the space that had been Willingers Beer Depot after moving from its longtime digs on Frankfort Ave. Despite the name change, you can still get bagels and cream cheese with your coffee or juices as well as a breakfast sandwich called The Willinger. $ B L PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D PHILLY CHEESESTEAK EXPRESS 12406 La Grange Rd. Lots of dedicated cheesecake fans love this suburban sandwich shop. For devotees, the availability of Cheez Whiz is a mark of authenticity. And they’ve got it! $$ L D f POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616, 9018 Taylorsville Rd., 290-4820. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D

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PRIMO’S DELICATESSEN 153 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-0491. It’s just what New Albany needed, a little New York style to give East Coast pizzazz to the downtown dining choices. Serving breakfast and lunch, so look for bagels and a schmear, and meaty sandwiches piled high. $ Br L QUIZNO’S SUBS 223 S. Fifth St., 589-5520, 11803 Shelbyville Rd., 253-5833, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7849, 220 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-1419. Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L f ROADRUNNER KITCHEN 37 Bank St. New Albany IN, 924-7024. Stacie Bale, who operated Earth Friends Café, has opened this healthful, grab-and-go lunch spot that offers garden and spinach salads, wraps, falafel, power smoothies, espressos and fresh juices. $ L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 425-8447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SEEDS AND GREENS NATURAL MARKET & DELI 207 W. First St., New Albany IN, 944-3800. Browse among the organic vegetables and health foods, and stop by the deli for soups and salads, hot and cold sandwiches, vegan, vegetarian and omnivore preparations. $ L D SOUPY’S 3027 Hunsinger Ln., 451-5325. Back in 1987, Danny Bowling’s mother-in-law, Bette, started making pots of soup in a corner of Bowling's Meats & Deli, a family courtesy that led in 1995 to Soupy’s. Now it’s about 2 million cups of soup later, by Soupy’s estimate, all using Bette’s recipes, cooked up in small batches daily. Salads, sandwiches (including veggie burgers) and sweets as well. $LD STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing menu. $ L D SUPERIOR MARKET & DELI 307 W. Broadway, 8223715. Snack on sandwiches, hot dogs, doughnuts and hot pretzels – or visit the salad bar and a pizza counter. Downtown dwellers will discover a good selection of groceries, including fresh vegetables and paper products, at very un-fancy prices. $ B L SWEET PEACHES 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 3560232. Breakfast, sandwiches and soups are what you will find at this West End spot. And don’t overlook fresh baked goodies like brownies and cookies or the chance to wash them down with peach-flavored sweet tea. This also is the location of the monthly Sweet Peaches Poetry Slam. $ B L D

homemade soups. Box lunches and catering also available. $$ L D THELMA’S DELI 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. Located in the glassed-in walkway (conservatory) between the two hotel towers, Thelma’s provides breakfast items, coffee, sandwiches and snacks 24/7 for Galt House guests and anyone else who needs, say, a pizza at 3 a.m. $$ B L D h VINAIGRETTE SALAD KITCHEN 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 205-9933. This Lexington-based modestly upscale salad restaurant offers locally sourced soups and salads and fresh lemonade. The menu includes the Bluegrass Blackberry salad; chicken taco and maki shrimp salads; and soups such as creamy tomato and sausage, kale and potato. Be sure to try one of three fresh lemonades on offer daily. $$ L D WHICH WICH? 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 290-3721, 221 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 708-2535, 13124 W. Hwy 42, 2280621, 3531 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0637. The concept here is “create your own sandwich” and draws on 50 toppings choices including sauerkraut, roasted red peppers, crispy onion strings, and hummus. The subs are the draw, but they also have wraps, gyros and now a variety of shakes. $$ B L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that rotate daily. $LD

BELLA’S DINER 4106 Taylor Blvd., 749-1771. $ L D BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BURGER GIRL 3334 Frankfort Ave., 709-5454. Dan Borsch, who owns the Old Louisville Tavern, Toonerville Tavern, Old Louisville Pizza Company and Burger Boy Diner, is expanding into Crescent Hill. Burger Girl, in the former Bluegrass Burgers space, is a 24-hour burger grill, the sister to long-time somnambulists’ favorite Burger Boy. $$ B L D hf CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The open-faced roast beef sandwich, with mashed potatoes and brussels sprouts, is a F&D favorite. $ L D pf COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 244-9497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served since 1929. $ L D

SWEET PEACHES 2 ROLL 2900 W. Broadway (Nia Center), 302-8118. Pam Haines, owner of the popular West Louisville restaurant Sweet Peaches, has opened a quick-service version inside the Nia Center — a meeting place for the neighborhood and a city-organized workforce development center. Patrons and neighbors can meet in the lobby and enjoy coffee, sandwiches, salads and fresh pastries. $ B L

D. NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. The nostalgia here is almost palpable. The interior has been upgraded, but changed as little as possible. The food offerings continue to be diner standards, like what was served when it first opened 50+ years ago. $ B L D

THE BLOCK GOURMET DELI 14041 Shelbyville Rd., 785-4689. A husband and wife team with considerable experience in restaurants runs this Middletown deli. Fans report excellent thick sandwiches, fresh salads and

EXECUTIVE BISTRO 1930 Bishop Ln. (Watterson Towers) 365-2848. This bright little spot provides grilled sandwiches, soups, salads and snacks to office workers in Watterson Towers. $ B L

DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D

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FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steamtable service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 883-1462. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in downhome comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $LD GERALDINE’S KITCHEN 402 Wall St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7707. Geraldine is the late mother of owner/chef Bob Hoyland; Geraldine’s Kitchen is a tribute to her sense of hospitality. Breakfast and lunch are served in an inviting, homey atmosphere. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 339-8070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D HOSANNA'S KITCHEN 139 S. 44th St., 778-0085. This far West End soul food place has emblematic southern comfort food: fried or baked chicken, fried fish, salmon croquettes, pork chops in gravy, long-cooked green beans, pinto beans, cabbage and baked apples. $ L D LIL' WAGNERS 4520 Poplar Level Rd., (Derby City Gaming), 961-7600. A sit-down restaurant when you need a break from betting. Burgers and sandwiches (including fried bologna), starters like nachos, fried pickles and crab cakes, and soups and salads. Also a grab-and-go menu of wraps, sandwiches and desserts. $ L D h METRO DINER 4901 Outer Loop, 357-0767. The first local outlet of this Florida-based chain features "classic comfort food with flair.” Harking back to the glory days of diners, Metro Diner offers breakfast, lunch and dinner menus all day long. Signature dish is fried chicken and waffles, with

burgers, seafood and salads also available. $$ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steamtable favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp SANDI'S KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-4823. Good ol' southern hospitality and home-made food are the draws at this modest place in the far southwest of the city. The menu includes chicken-fried steak, meatloaf and liver and onions. $ B L D THE COZY KITCHEN 1554 Bardstown Rd., 451-0024. This little take-out spot in the Highlands offers familiar, homecooked style meals with a rotating menu. Among the choices, depending on the day, are chicken and dumplings, red chili, mac and cheese, pot roast, butternut squash soup. Dinners come with 2 sides. $ L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L

BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 7729580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D BOOK & BOURBON SOUTHERN KITCHEN 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). This library-themed concept at this upscale, airport dining venue offers more than 100 bourbons, along with a classic craft cocktail list.

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

The food menu tweaks Southern comfort food with items such as fried green tomato Benedict and buttermilk fried chicken and waffles. $$ B L D h p BRAMBLE 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 715-7618. Like most in the Market, Bramble is a counter service spot, serving up Southern food at all three meals. Look for pork belly Reubens and daily lunch specials, and Atlanta brisket (marinated in Coca-Cola) and espresso-rubbed pork belly. $$ L D f CRYSTAL'S SOUTHERN FOOD & SPIRITS 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 618-4200. This Jeffersontown family spot serves breakfast (omelets, biscuits and gravy, chicken and grits), lunch (catfish sandwich, burgers and tacos) and dinner (short ribs, chicken, steak, pork chops and seafood). $$ B L D p DAISY MAE’S 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 944-8101. Daisy Mae’s offers southern food and hospitality. The menu includes fried chicken and cod, meatloaf, mashed potatoes, collards and pinto bean soup every day. Look for daily specials that include a regularly rotating fruit cobbler and red velvet cake. $ L D f DASHA BARBOUR’S SOUTHERN BISTRO 2217 Steier Ln., 882-2081, 1300 Muhammad Ali Blvd., 749-0094. The Buechel location certainly gives the “bistro” concept a down-home Southern twist. Both locations serve familiar home-style fried chicken and fish, a vegetable plate with three sides choices, burgers, pork chop sandwich, and chicken wings. Sides include sweet potato casserole studded with pecans, fried corn on the cob and collard greens. $$ B L D FLO'S HOUSE OF SOUL 3400 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 966-2213. You order at the window and eat on the patio, which has heaters for cooler weather and TVs for watching big games. Owner Jason Hatcher tries to do good for his community, offering food rewards to kids with good

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report cards. Choices include burgers, chili dogs, Philly cheesesteaks, whiting and catfish sandwiches, nachos and ice cream. $$ Br D hpf FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D LUCRETIA’S KITCHEN 1812 West Muhammad Ali Blvd. (Chef Space), 294-8143. It’s Wing Wednesday, Rib Tip Thursday, Fried Fish Friday and Soul Food Sunday at this ambitious little startup operating in the business incubator in the near West End. $$ Br L D MAMA’S KITCHEN CARRYOUT 603 N. 26th St., 5655760. This little West End order-at-the-window place serves up sandwiches, snacks (with 1 side), dinners (with 2) – things like hot dogs, pulled pork and chicken, meatloaf, smothered pork chops and fried chicken and fish on Fridays. $ L D MATTIE'S KITCHEN 1018 S. 15th St., (St. Stephens Family Life Center), 544-8954. Open Wednesdays and Fridays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for after-church dining. The flexible menu can list fried or baked chicken, pork chops, mac n’ cheese, spaghetti and meatballs, and on Fridays, catfish is a special. $ Br L MISS ADA’S 510 E. Chestnut St., 561-3762. $ L SCENE 501 W. Main St. Scene is the latest dining venture in the space at the Kentucky Center for the Arts that has seen a lot of things come and go. Open before shows for drinks and small plate dining served in the fast-casual style. Flatbreads, burgers, pasta dishes, crab cakes; a small but good wine and beer selection and a full bar. $$ D hp SHINE'S DINER 3400 W. Market St., 510-9310. This West End restaurant sells soul food, seafood, burgers and wings and Philly cheesesteak fries (topped with steak, green onions, green peppers, mozzarella and cheddar cheese). Owner Mary Jenefor occasionally gives free meals to those in need in the community. $ L D SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D SOUL FOOD DINING 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 915-8239. A cafeteria-style restaurant that offers all that a soul food fan would want: BBQ chicken, meatloaf, ribs, pork chops (with or without gravy), catfish, buffalo, and whiting, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, greens, green beans, sweet potatoes and slaw. $$ L D SOUTHERN EXPRESS 418 W. Oak St., 963-1719. This well-known West End carryout spot has moved into a sitdown location in Old Louisville. There, classic soul food is served for eat-in or takeout and at rock-bottom prices. Diners build their own meal at $1 per item. Choices vary daily, but look for fried chicken, cooked cabbage, fried whiting, pork roast, fried or smothered pork chops, mac and cheese and rib tips. $ L D f SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY 3402 W. Broadway, 8221474. A family sports bar that satisfies all ages with its homey atmosphere and its well-crafted familiar food like double cheeseburgers, fried chicken with hot water cornbread, catfish, wings and ribs. $ L D hp SUE'S TOUCH OF COUNTRY 2605 Rockford Ln., 4505059. Sue’s provides Shively with the kind of “stick to your ribs” food you go to a country/family style restaurant for. Daily Specials, homemade desserts and breakfast served all day. $ B L D 66 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

V-GRITS 1025 Barret Ave., 742-1714. Vegan food truck VGrits has settled down in the former Monkey Wrench corner and is cooperating there with False Idol Brewers. VGrits co-owner Kristina Addington defines her menu as “southern comfort food, stick to your ribs, healthy junk food.” $$ L D hpf

CRAVINGS ALA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 584-6846. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 5362 Dixie Hwy., 447-6660, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D

B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Center), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp BARRELHOUSE ON MARKET 1005 W. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-6373. Andrew and Michelle Collins renovated a down-to-the-heels dive bar into a spiffy, lively drinking establishment and music venue with a small, tasty menu: a slider assortment, buffalo and BBQ wings, pretzels and queso. $$ D hpfe BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 409-9422. Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a satisfying place to dine. The BBQ comes as pulled chicken, pork and brisket in sandwiches or full dinners. $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 6373737, 11324 Preston Hwy., 969-5559, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D hf BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 893-4487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf BITTERS END 101 W. Main St. (Hotel Distil), 716-7373. Hotel Distil’s rooftop bar provides signature cocktails and shareable small plates along with expansive views of downtown and the river. Oysters, steak tartare and soybraised short ribs are on the menu, as well as intriguing beverage options like a blueberry-sage sour and a raspberry-thyme Sidecar. $$$ L D hpf BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 9900 Linn Station Rd., 326-9830, 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his two sports pubs, the area’s official homes for Cincinnati Bengals fans. $ L D hpfe BUBBA'S 33 4631 Medical Plaza Way, Clarksville IN, 2845933. The 12th location of the growing chain from the guys at Texas Roadhouse, Bubba’s is a family friendly sports bar with TVs galore and corn hole boards on the patio. The menu offers chicken with two types of bacon, chili-rubbed salmon, smoked chipotle wings, a spicy habanero burger and pizzas. $$ D p BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. This spiffed up Shively outpost offers honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the

“gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe BUTCHER BLOCK EATERY AT HIGH HORSE 1032 Story Ave., 690-5020. The High Horse Bar, which now occupies the home of the legendary Do Drop Inn, serves edibles from a food window dubbed Butcher Block Eatery. Allan Rosenberg, late of Butchertown Pizza Hall, supervises. His menu features crab tater tots, a pork belly grilled cheese, and tacos. Poutine, beer cheese and deviled eggs are on hand as well. $$ D hpe THE BUTCHERTOWN SOCIAL 1601 Story Ave., 8903892. Entrepreneur Isaiah Hoagland, who now owns the site that used to be Louis’s The Ton, has renovated it minimally, added a small kitchen, and now serves tacos, sandwiches and a few sides. These additions make the neighborhood bar ambiance even more appealing. $ D hpf DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 8957513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. St. Matthews’ newest restaurateur star, Jared Matthews, began his career here, revitalizing this neighborhood institution for a new generation. Both locations (the second at the old silos on the edge of downtown) are major music venues. The food is just what happy concert-goers look for: pizza, burgers, wings, beer cheese, sandwiches and wraps.$ L D hpfe DIAMOND STREET GRUB & HOPS 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 709-5113. Jared Matthews’ St. Matthews restaurant empire grows again with a cosmopolitan street food and craft beer restaurant that replaces the recently shuttered Mellow Mushroom pizzeria. Expect to find every streetstyle food one can think of: Thai wings, elotes, Philly cheesesteaks, a Chicago-style hot dog called The Wrigley and Korean meatballs among other items familiar and exotic. $$ L D hpfe DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has two local outlets that offer twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf DUNDEE TAVERN 2224 Dundee Rd., 458-6637. After a few flips and changes, Dundee Tavern has found its soul again as a neighborhood bar. A lot of beer choices on draft and in bottles, and a comfort food menu that includes wings and fingers, fried pickles, chili, burgers and sandwiches and Tavern Specialties like grilled flat iron steak and southern-fried cod. $$ L D hp FALLS CITY TAPROOM 901 E. Liberty St., 257-7147. This historic brand that was first brewed in 1905 has been revived (2010) and re-imagined as a modern craft beer. Now you can sip on their offerings at their new taproom and beer garden operating just east of downtown where Phoenix Hill and NuLu merge. Food is also offered tableside from the adjacent Bandido Taqueria Mexicana. $$ L D hpf FIRST STRING BAR AND GRILL 5921 New Cut Rd., 3660049. This South End sports bar offers pizza, baked spaghetti, fried bologna sandwiches and Cajun dry rub chicken wings. $$ L D hpe FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FORT KNOCKERS MESS HALL 5501 Valley Station Rd., 890-3585. This bar and grill in the far Southwest corner of the city has a rousing military theme, including murals of

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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local veterans donated by community members. Basic bar food, but done with care. Beer specials during football games and a patio with cornhole and other bar games. $$ L D hpf GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GOODWOOD BREWHOUSE & LIVE ROOM 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3281. On the second floor of Cox's Hot Chicken, this branch of Goodwood Brewing houses a small brewery and taproom where the firm plans to experiment with specialty releases. There is also a stage with sound and light systems, and special effects for a range of live entertainment. $$ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf GRIFF’S 133 W. Liberty St., 939-3535. Griff, of course, is U of L b-ball great Darrell Griffith (Dr. Dunkenstein), who has transformed the former Hurricane O’Malley’s location into an upscale sports bar and late-night party place. The menu offers Southern food and burgers, including the “Fast Break” burger served between homemade sweet potato waffles. $$ L D hpf GROWLER USA 3010 Gottbrath Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 748-2622. This expanding franchise operation offers local and regional craft beers, draught wines (served out of the barrel), hard ciders and kombucha. Let their cicerone lead you to beverage pairings with their familiar, hearty pub menu – lots of burgers, beer cheese soup, salads and sandwiches, and a limited entree selection. $$$ L D hpf

chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp

JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 449-4940. $BLD

HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 239-4724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf

KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern, a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978, offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and soups. The hamburgers, though, might be the best unpretentious burgers in town: freshly ground daily, always cooked perfectly, and served on a toasted bun. $ L D pf

HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot that boasts 3 different steak sandwiches, along with pizza, burgers and chicken. $ L D hpf HOPCAT 1064 Bardstown Rd., 890-8676. This Highlands attraction seats up to 300 in the dining room, three private party rooms and a covered second floor patio. HopCat touts its 132 craft beers on tap, at least 30 of which are locally made, as the largest selection in Kentucky. Lunch and dinner offers homemade pub grub: burgers, mac & cheese, Detroit-style square pizza with cheesy crust, and signature “crack fries.” Saturday and Sunday brunch as well. $$ Br L D hpf INTERNATIONAL TAP HOUSE 637 E. Main St. The St. Louis-based chain has opened on the ground floor of the Main & Clay apartment building. Not a brewery, but a purveyor of hundreds of craft beers, ciders and a limited selection of wine. Patrons are invited to bring in food from neighboring businesses. $$ p f J-TOWN BEACH 10315 Watterson Trl., 558-0881. This family fun sports complex offers sand volleyball leagues and also offers Quills coffee and Comfy Cow ice cream. $ L D hpfe JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 288-2100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf

KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp LOUISVILLE INTERNATIONAL PUB 5343 Mitscher Ave. 384-3952. A neighborhood bar with an international focus. Eclectic bar food options cover the globe with dinner and sandwich options like nachos, chili, falafel, poppers, burgers, kabobs, and shawarma.$ L D hp MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 9458915. A friendly tavern up in the Knobs above New Albany. $ L D p NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe NIRVANA 1047 Bardstown Rd., 712-0813. Nirvana has become a Highlands entertainment destination with live shows most nights. Darnell Ferguson, of Super Chefs, has taken over the kitchen, so look for his takes on the eclectic

GYPSY’S SPORTS GRILLE 7207 Fegenbush Ln., 9090922. “Gypsy” is the name of the owner’s rescued Boston terrier. The husband-wife team who own this Fern Creek hangout offer all that a sports fan could want: wings and ribs, nachos, potato skins, fried pickles, sandwiches, pork chops and steaks. $$ L D hpfe HELL OR HIGH WATER 112 W. Washington St., 5873057. The entrance is through Hello Curio, an ostensible arts and crafts gallery. Downstairs is the main bar in a twostory library with a mezzanine floor, looking out onto a small live entertainment area. Craft cocktails are bourbonfocused but not exclusively. There is a small bites menu, but drinks are the center of the “speakeasy” experience. $$ D hpe HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but owner Tommy Clemons’ menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty or the French toast sausage. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLCREST TAVERN 3212 Frankfort Ave., 290-6917. Dan Borsch, who runs several Old Louisville spots like Burger Boy Diner and Old Louisville Tavern, has expanded into Clifton with this renovation of a long-time neighborhood watering hole. The menu mirrors that of Old Louisville Tavern, with burgers, sandwiches, appetizers and a few entrée items. A vintage 100-year old bar will anchor the nostalgic ambiance. $$ L D hpe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have settled in at this prime Clifton location. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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menu: bang bang cauliflower, bougie fries, dog bone wings and the McNasty sandwich. $$ L D hpe OLD HICKORY INN 1038 Lydia St., 634-3011. The Schnitzelburg building has been around forever, has suffered indignities, like a fire that gutted it, but has always bounced back. Now it has expanded its presence with a new kitchen, outdoor deck and a food menu aimed to be competitive with other Germantown hangouts. $ L D hp OLD LOUISVILLE TAVERN 1532 S. Fourth St., 637-4200. It’s risen from the ashes, the interior gutted and redone, a new kitchen installed, but the menu is the same as before: top-flight bar grub made from scratch. An expanded beer program with 16 new taps includes a selection of local and craft beers. $$ L D hpf O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3846171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp PEARL STREET TAPHOUSE 407 Pearl Street, Jeffersonville IN, 285-0890. Located in an historic home that was saved through a preservation grant, this pub has 24 taps with a heavy focus on local breweries, with regional and national choices as well. Food choices range from pizzas to baconwrapped dates to corned beef grilled cheese sandwiches. Everything is fresh and nothing is deep-fried. $ L D p f PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D h p PINTS&UNION 114 E. Market St., New Albany IN., 9134647. Beer maven (and F&D contributor) Roger Baylor and partner Joe Phillips have renovated an old neighborhood bar, where the taps dispense familiar quality beers and ales, the bar crafts interesting cocktails and the bottled beer selection skews toward Belgian ales. The small kitchen offers pub-inspired small plates with an Indian accent. $ L D hp PORCH KITCHEN & BAR 280 W. Jefferson St. (Marriott), 671-4246. As part of the recent renovation of the Marriott, this all-day restaurant replaces Champions Sports Grill. The name reflects the intention of the new restaurant to be a homey, welcoming downtown spot. Look for Americanstyle comfort foods and a friendly bar. B Br L D hpfe RECBAR 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 509-3033. Family fun is the object here, with games galore: pool and ping-pong, skeeball, arcade games (for Nintendo, Sega Genesis, Super NES) and card and board games. A full bar and pub-style food, too. $$ L D hp RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, half-pint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h

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SHOPBAR 950 Barret Ave., 709-4696. The former gas station has been converted into a small artisanal boutique and welcoming bar with a food truck — FoodShop at the rear. The menu rotates, but recently it included fried white fish, a pork jowl sandwich served on a pretzel bun, and mushroom tostadas. $ Br D hpf THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 5846630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp SULLIVAN’S TAP HOUSE 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 907-0424. John Sullivan, Matt Taylor and Breno Giacomino have taken over the former Bluegrass Brewing Co. space. You’ll find reasonably-priced cheeseburgers, hot brown sliders and shaved cheese steak served alongside 20-plus craft beers and signature cocktails within sight of lots of TVs. $$ L D hpfe TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 588-8888. This spacious sports bar adds to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. $$ D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf THE EARL 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-2611. This bar offers craft cocktails and upscale bar food such as spicy pimento cheese with pretzel bread, cheese and charcuterie boards, and roasted cauliflower with bleu cheese. $$ D hp THE GOAT 700 Landis Ridge Dr., 437-3000. Ohio-based LC Lifestyle Communities operates this small chain of unusually named upscale-casual restaurants. Enjoy Italian pizza rolls, stuffed potatoes, salads, “double-grind” burgers, wings, pizza, wraps and craft beer on the expansive deck or around the community pool, or join one of the competitive leagues in euchre, corn hole or volleyball. $$ L D hpfe THE LIBRARY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. By day, the Library serves coffee, lattes and tea along with freshly baked pastries. By late afternoon, it morphs into a bourbon bar with locally inspired cocktails. $ B L hp THE PEARL 1151 Goss Ave., 996-7552. The Pearl aims to be a classic neighborhood pub (not unlike Pauly’s, which it replaces). It also aims to be a spirits-focused hangout, with a bar menu limited to snacks like pickled eggs, country ham and cheese sandwiches and free popcorn or roasted nuts. In the works is a permanent food truck to be parked in the rear to expand food offerings. $$ L D hpf

that serves bar staples like burgers, fried pickles and cheese curds plus pizza from Danny Mac’s Pizza. (Dan McMahon, owner of Danny Mac’s Pizza, is a partner.) $ L D p fe TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashvillebased chain in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage pinball and electronic games, and the Beer Can Collection is as long as your arm. The chow is high-quality bar grub — things like wings, sandwiches, salads, and the Death Star cookie, baked in a skillet and topped with ice cream. And topflight live music late into the night. $ L D hpfe

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 5150174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 5894843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run this brewery in Butchertown, dedicated to fresh craft beer in a space that heats with solar, recycles and reuses materials and grains. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 300 W. Main St., 562-0007, 660 S. Fourth St., 899-7070. BBC has reopened its Theater Square outlet, right in front of the Kindred expansion, which displaced the former restaurant/beer pub. The Main St. location does the brewing, and upstairs boasts a Bourbon lounge. At both locations, the food is as good as the beer, and that says a lot. $$ L D hpfe DONUM DEI BREWERY 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 590-2478. Owner Rick Otey maintains that beer is a gift from god, hence the name of his craft brewery. The interior is starkly Scandinavian modern. A distilling permit has made it the area’s first “brewstillery.” $ L D hp FLAT 12 BIERWERKS 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3219. Flat 12 has the fermenters, barrels and other technical accouterments right out front, producing five house beers, four seasonal brews and some select beers for special events. You can see it all getting kegged or bottled, too, as you sample. $ Br L D fe

THE WATER COMPANY 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. There is a 3rd-floor rooftop pool at the new Omni Hotel, and this is the bar that goes with it, also offering seasonally-inspired light bites. $$ L D p f

FLOYD COUNTY BREWING CO. 129 W. Main St., New Albany IN, (470) 588-2337. Walk in this new brewpub and you will find what looks like a medieval banquet hall, but scaled down to a Yorkshire public house. Brewer Jeff Coe’s repertoire includes Braun Jovi (Brown Ale), Hefe’ns Gate Hefeweizen and Vlad’s India Pale Ale, which complement perfectly menu items like fish and chips and oversized turkey legs. $ L D h

TIM TAM TAVERN 1022 Clarks Ln., 883-0101. Named for the 1958 Kentucky Derby winner, the Schnitzelburg/ Audubon neighborhood bar has a new look and a kitchen

GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner

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location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottom-fermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pub-grub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf

MAIN EVENT BAR & GRILL 12500 Sycamore Station Pl., 240-5555. This Dallas-based chain offers plenty of fun: bowling, laser tag, a high ropes course, billiards, video games — along with pizzas, sandwiches, full dinners and a full bar. $$ L D hp

GRAVELY BREWING CO. 514 Baxter Ave., 822-3202. Gravely offers 14 draft choices, all brewed and served on site. The brewery partners with Mayan Street Food, run by The Mayan Café. Walk up to the truck and order snacks like guacamole, fried plantains, Mexican corn, salbutes or tacos. Brunch on Sunday is provided by Commonwealth Cure with items like pork hash, Scotch eggs, or pork sliders. Plus, a full brunch drink selection. $ Br L D hpfe

MESA 216 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 725-7691. Mesa calls itself a “collaborative kitchen-classroom,” in which local established and aspiring chefs offer cooking demonstrations and food prep advice for a small audience, who will then eat what the chefs prepare before them. There is also a boutique selling high-end cookware and food products. $$ D p

MONNIK BEER CO. 1036 E. Burnett Ave., 742-6564. The gastropub style menu includes a range of Euro-inspired pub food like three kinds of double-fried fries, fried smelts, a ploughman’s plate, pork and black currant pie, sauerbraten, and burgers. The beer menu adds changing guest brews to the house menu of Mild George and King George (British style brown ales), His Dark materials (a stout) and Hauck’s American pilsner. $$ L D hpfe OUR LADY OF PERPETUAL HOPS 300 Foundation Ct., New Albany IN. The area’s newest brewery offers 12 taps (currently 8 house and 4 guest taps), as well as plenty of space for playing games like cornhole, darts, Jenga; pool, and video golf. If you work up an appetite, food trucks will tend your hunger on Friday and Saturday nights. $$ D he PUBLIC HOUSE BY AGAINST THE GRAIN 1576 Bardstown Rd., 409-9866. After almost 20 years of fine craft brewing, Cumberland Brews founder Mark Allgeier has passed the taps over to the guys at Against the Grain, who have redubbed the popular Highlands space the Public House. All the taps serve ATG brews (to-go growlers are available). The menu features pub grub with a twist, including burgers, paninis, pimento cheese balls and French onion soup. Brunches promise to be destination weekend events. $$ Br L D hpf RED YETI BREWING CO. 256 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-5788. This craft brewery has an ambitious kitchen touting food so fresh in concept, they have no freezer. The brisket sandwich comes with house-made chips, the pork ribs are braised in wheat ale, and desserts include funnel cake with chocolate dipping fondue and a beer float: vanilla ice cream in your choice of porter or stout. $$ L D hp

DAVE & BUSTER'S 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews), 963-0940. Fun galore with arcade, billiards, sports TVs, and a 16 page menu with surprising options for every special diet like flavorful lettuce wraps, the Impossible Burger and full entrees like steaks or salmon plus expected bar fare: nachos, sliders and wings. Desserts, beers and festive cocktails of impressive size, too. $$ L D hp DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinnertheater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-squarefoot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf

MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p PIN + PROOF 400 S. Second St., (Omni Hotel), 313-6664. The Omni’s bar has a cool angle. There are four bowling lanes, as well as hors d’oeuvres to enjoy in the “the opulent and mysterious atmosphere." $ D hp THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. The second floor theater continues to be a top local venue for all sorts of theater, improv and silly/hilarious roasts of toys (Barbie), computer game characters (Mario) and years (2017). Downstairs, the menu offers Shakespeare-themed items such as Sir Francis BBQ Bacon Burger and The Steakspeare. $$ D hpfe

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h AFRICA HOUSE LOUNGE & CAFÉ 2816 Crums Ln., 3847240. West African and Jamaican cuisine, a full service bar and Reggae and Afrobeats on the sound track. The unique taste here is the Ghanaian shito sauce, a complex hot and tangy condiment. $ L D h BARAKA RESTAURANT 519 W. Oak St., 822-3046. This all-halal restaurant serves African, Asian and Indian dishes. At the counter you pick a meat and choose an accompaniment of rice, bread or noodles. The fish curry with chapati and chicken saqaar with rice are good examples. Goat is often available for those who want to try something different. $ L D FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. $$ L D IMANKA RESTAURANT 737 S. Eighth St., (International Mall) 210-7503. Somali immigrant entrepreneur Mohamed Abbi Abdalla and his family serve their native cuisine at the International Mall. Suggested dishes include chicken suqaar (a chicken stew-like dish) or goat seasoned with onions and green peppers. $$ L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D

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QUEEN OF SHEBA 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D SAFARI CAFÉ & INTERNATIONAL KITCHEN 5600 S. Third St. Another choice in the growing list of African restaurants in town. The Safari is run by Somali entrepreneurs, offering inexpensive, authentic Somali, coffee drinks, and a lively atmosphere. $$ B L D h SANAG II RESTAURANT 5312 S. Third St., 882-2210. Iroquois Manor’s great selection of international dining choices expands again with the addition of this Somali eatery. Look for spiced rice dishes with goat meat, chicken sukhar, chapati with chopped chicken, and foo-foo with spinach, cabbage and carrots. $$ B L ZIBA’S BISTRO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 7970633. The rich cuisine of his native Burkina Faso in Central West Africa is Chef Bapion Ziba’s main inspiration, but he brings elements of European and American flavors too. Tiguedigue chicken, cooked with vegetables in a peanut sauce, will be a signature dish. $$

888 GREAT WALL 9464 Brownsboro Rd., 425-2811. Strip mall Chinese food is an accurate description of what to expect here. Locals from the neighborhood have said good things about the garlic chicken and their crab Rangoon. $ LD A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes this buffet a good choice among the many of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN WOK 2235 Frankfort Ave., 822-3285. This panAsian spot offers a very large selection of Chinese & Japanese dishes in the stir-fried, hibachi-grilled and sushi categories. A lot of familiar things — Kung Pao chicken, pepper steak with onion, veggie fried rice, rainbow roll, hibachi steak, and so on. $$ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style, consistent commitment from the kitchen makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant al fresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D CHINA BISTRO 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222, 9246 Westport Rd., 425-1818. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA CHEF 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 384-5322. Pretty standard Chinese choices can be found at this new store in the South End. Eat in or carry out. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D

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CHINA DRAGON 8507 Terry Rd., 995-9897. The far southwest corner of the city can get its Chinese table hot food fix here. $ L D h CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500, 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. $ L D CHINA STAR 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 896-1818. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. Fans of this somewhat funky Chinese place post positive notices about the quality of its food. No strange Asian dishes here, just familiar Chinese hot table fare that Americans recognize. $ L D CHUNG KING PALACE 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. Every neighborhood seems to need a Chinese steam table outlet serving up Asian dishes familiar to Americans. Double Dragon does that job for its neighborhoods. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3135 S. Second St., 3676668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2675353.$LD DRAGON CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-1885. This Prospect-area Chinese restaurants offers many familiar dishes. East End fans say the service is quick and the food above-average tasty. $ L D EAST STAR BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588, 6413 Greenwood Rd., 935-6611. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h THE GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of wordof-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI BUFFET 5372 Dixie Hwy., 449-8688. This far South Louisville Asian buffet gets strong positives from locals who appreciate its cleanliness, its range of choices (including hibachi grilled meats to order and sushi) and a buffet bar that is kept freshly loaded. $ L D p HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228, 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. Capitalizing on two

seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 367-8828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check out the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace offers familiar Chinese food choices, as well as a long list of Chef’s Specials, with names in Chinese characters as well as English (a sure sign you are in for authentic Chinese fare). Dim sum is offered daily, but on weekends it is served from a traditional rolling cart. $$ Br L D hp JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. Like many Chinese restaurants, Jasmine is in a strip mall, but this is not just another hot table stir fry joint. There is an American menu, but those in the know will ask for the 14page Szechuan menu, featuring such interesting things as pig ear in sesame oil, hot and spicy intestines, spicy diced rabbit foot, frog legs, beef maw and tendon Szechuan style — one of the most popular choices, the manager said. $ L Dp JASMINE ASIAN BISTRO 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 618-3000. The owners of Jasmine Essential Chinese on English Villa Dr. have gone more upscale with this bistro-style location. Expect the same authentic Chengdu-style Sichuan cuisine (be adventurous!) and well-executed Americanized dishes, sushi and other offerings. $$ L D p THE JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070, 9850 Von Allmen Ct., 618-1601. This fine Asian restaurant across from Mid-City Mall has opened a suburhan site too. Both serve familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as authentic Taiwanese offerings. Duck dishes are cooked in three different styles — Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing. $$ L D hpf JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h L & J ASIAN CUISINE 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8399. This Pan-Asian spot in the Kroger-anchored strip center at Hwy. 42 near River Rd. offers a large familiar Chinese selection that also includes Vietnamese, Thai and Japanese dishes, and a good vegetarian selection. $$ L D f LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ LD NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L Df ORIENTAL CAFÉ 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this long-standing St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional ChineseAmerican and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This

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establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINA 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN 2880774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-8430, 13311 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3980, 10600 Westport Rd., 4251678. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have four. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D PEKING CITY EXPRESS 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 891-0388. A lot of familiar items on the menu here, but those in the know ask for a Chinese menu, and order the dumplings or the xiao long bao (steam bun with meat filling). Dishes are handsomely presented, and servings are large. $$ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D RICE BOX 6810 Southside Dr., 380-2209. This typical Chinese hot table provides South End residents with the kind of Chinese food you would expect at budget prices. $ L D SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and wellmade dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sit-down Chinese restaurant has a large and eclectic menu, with lots of spicy dishes and daily double shot specials at the inviting bar. Now offering delivery to Norton Commons and adjacent suburbia. $$ L D hp WEI WEI CHINESE EXPRESS 526 S. Fifth St., 889-0827. $LD

interior, and the commitment to the freshest ingredients have been drawing in fans from beyond the East End. $$ L D hp ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses a neighborhood sushi spot that also serves grilled dishes and tempura. $ L D CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 4264441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 6322444, 129 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-8600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 749-8878. A one-stop Asian restaurant. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D hp HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofu-making room. State-ofthe-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D

HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651, 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. A second location takes over the downtown space from the former Caviar. $$$ L D hp JUNO 5406 Antle Dr., 409-7094. A wide-ranging menu of Japanese options make this an interesting destination on the southern edge of the Metro — just off Preston Highway on the far side of the Gene Snyder. Diners have plenty of sushi options, as well as hibachi dinners, yakisoba, udon and ramen noodle dishes, tonkatsu and tempura. $$ L D p KAI LANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets its own sushi bar, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot

YANG KEE NOODLE 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 245-9264. This locally owned and operated colorful and stylish fastcasual restaurant offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOKI BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-2277. A Chinese food-oriented buffet, with sushi as well, offers more options near the Jeffersontown Industrial Park along the Blankenbaker Rd. corridor. $$ L D YOU-A CARRY OUT-A 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881, 621 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-1788. $LD YUMMY CHINA 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h

ASIAN / FILIPINO LOLA'S KITCHEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 290-6649. This Filipino restaurant reveals a cuisine that is a fusion of Spanish, Chinese, American and indigenous culture. Menu highlights: chicken/pork adobo, beef Kaldareta (beef stew in tomato sauce), and chicken arroz caldo, chicken cooked in a ginger-based broth, served with a hardboiled egg atop Chinese rice porridge. $$ Br L D f

AJI SUSHI AND ASIAN CUISINE 5610 Outer Loop, 2052477. Okolona area residents can now get their sushi fix. The extensive menu offerings include egg rolls, salads and soups, noodle, rice and curry dishes, and tempura, as well as a large variety of raw and cooked sushi preparations. $ L D p ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Arata is a dedicated sushi place, with only a few items that fall outside of the maki, nigri and sashimi offerings. The elegant modern

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dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h MISAWA HIBACHI & SUSHI BAR 7931 Bardstown Rd., 290-1780 The hibachi grills here are not for show, just for grilling, which keeps prices lower than other Japanese steak houses. Rodeleo See, a sushi chef with almost two decades of experience runs the sushi bar. $$ L D p MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quick-eating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot serves all the popular maki and nigri near Bowman Field. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D POKEHANA 436 W. Market St., 996-7994. Poke, an increasingly popular Hawaiian raw fish salad, is given a fast-casual Asian fusion twist here in the space that had been Chop Chop Salads. Choose your combination of protein and vegetables and toppings such as ginger, jalapeno and seaweed salad. Also fried rice, bibimbab and noodle-bab, made with sweet potato noodles.$$ L RAMEN HOUSE 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 7094374. Next to the Baxter Avenue Cinemas, Jonathan Ham, who formerly owned the popular Ramen Inochi, expanded his culinary range with a menu that includes traditional ramen, rice bowls, steamed buns and handmade gyoza. $$ Dh ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Veteran restaurateur Coco Tran looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “fullservice” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D SAMURAI 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Middletown gets some artistic sushi, as well as hibachi-grilled steak and seafood. Teppan-style (food cooked on an iron griddle) lunch and dinner entrees are a specialty. $$ L D p SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. The remodeled Highlands location has an expanded kitchen, new sushi bar and new fixtures, giving trendy, glitzy Sapporo new bona fides as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ L D hp SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Jeffersonville joins the sushi craze with its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D SUSHI MASTER 9415 Norton Commons Blvd., 890-5157. This traditional Japanese restaurant offers sashimi, classic 72 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

sushi rolls, noodle dishes such as udon and cold soba and entrees such as teriyaki chicken, and grilled fish. A few Korean dishes such as bulgogi are on offer too. $$ L D pf TOGO SUSHI 700 Lyndon Ln., 883-0666. ToGo offers primarily drive-thru sushi-to-go, but it does have a fiveseat bar and three two-top tables inside. Owner Chet Gurun also owns Samurai Sushi & Hibachi in Middletown and is also part owner of Oishii Sushi near Bowman Field. If sushi isn’t your thing, there are items like fried oysters, fried calamari and shrimp tempura, as well as some vegetarian options. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-0200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p TSUBAKI SUSHI & BAR 13823 English Villa Dr., 2448896. A new addition to Jasmine, many people’s favorite Chinese restaurant in town. Look for both raw and cooked two-piece nigiri and three-piece Sashimi, a variety of vegetable rolls and deep fried rolls, and special rolls almost beyond counting. $$ L D p WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. This Highlands sushi and Asian fusion spot has a sushi bar up front, and a pan-Asian menu in the back dining room. Entrees include standard Japanese entrées such as teriyuaki chicken, Japanese curry, and soba and udon noodle dishes. $$ L D hp YAMATO JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 590-1380. A lot of Japanese food preparations are on the menu at this southern Indiana restaurant, located between State Street and Green Vallley Road. Offerings include: ramen bowls and bento boxes, yaki soba and sushi rolls, and steak, chicken or seafood hibachi grilled dishes. $$ L D

KIM & BAB 3012 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN, 725-9844. This little Korean restaurant is getting rave notices from locals who love the mandu (dumplings), japchae (a noodle dish), galbi (short ribs) and dakkangjung (fried marinated boneless chicken in a spicy sweet and sour sauce). More familiar things like bulgogi and fried rice too. $$ L D KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D p LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h RICE BOWL 3114 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 5906786. Rice Bowl is another addition to the restaurant row area near the IUS campus. It serves Korean and Asian dishes. You will find clay pot bibimbap, chicken curry rice, several varieties of ramen. $$ L D SARANG 1908 Eastern Pkwy., 709-4282. The store on the Eastern Parkway side of the Schuster Building most recently was a Ce Fiori yogurt shop, but it now serves Korean food such as bibimbap, mandoo, ramen and dakkangjung. Bubble tea is back, too. $ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TANTHAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The menu covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D TIME 4 THAI 2206 Frankfort Ave., 996-7899. The elegantly redone interior is matched by some unusually elegant Thai dishes, such as the volcano Cornish hen, a whole bird, marinated with Thai herbs and spicy chili sauce, which is flambéed at the table. All dishes are cooked to order, so choose your spice level. $$ L D p

Á-CHÂU RESTAURANT 5103 S. Third St., 364-4262. This Beechmont arrival (pronounced “Ah Chow”), proclaims “Vietnamese Street Food” in a banner over the front door of what long was Thornberry’s Deli. The menu includes noodles and soups, Vietnamese egg rolls, bánh mi, curry dishes, fresh coconut or sugar cane juice, sweet Thai iced tea and hot or cold Vietnamese coffee. $$ L D ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D CHIK'N & MI 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 890-5731. Fried chicken meets Asian noodles in the lower Brownsboro space that has seen lots of other ethnic choices. The menu starts with fried chicken tossed in sauces such as sweet soy, hot, extra hot, and peppercorn ranch. Starters include assorted pickles, salads, fried calamari, and pork belly steam buns. Also pho and ramen dishes and shareable sides: fries, bok choy and kimchi mac and cheese. $$ Br Dp

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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EATZ VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT 974 Barret Ave., 7854550. Another newcomer to the string of shotgun houses along Barret that provide a lead-in to the Paris Pointe development. Pho and Bahn mi sandwiches, of course, but also other noodle dishes, a bento box and crispy tofu in chili sauce. $$ L D pf

SEAFOOD LADY 105 W. Oak St., 210-9381, 3207 Fern Valley Rd., 907-5251. It began as a food truck, but owner Nichelle Thurston has expanded into two stores. The lure here is fresh fish, shrimp and crab legs brought up from the Gulf Coast, prepared with Cajun spices, and served simply and relatively cheaply. $$ L D f

LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf

SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

LEMONGRASS RESTAURANT 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7110, 2956 Richland Ave., 614-7448. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PHO BA LUU 1019 E. Main St., 384-6822. This Butchertown restaurant focuses on Vietnamese street food such as pho, the classic noodle soup, and banh mi sandwiches. The very cool repurposed space was once a welding shop; its large open spaces and high ceilings make for an elegant place to sip sweet iced coffee or munch on an Imperial roll or tuck into a rice or noodle bowl. Fast casual service at lunch; after happy hour the full bar and large patio have full service. $$ L D pf

STORMING CRAB 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 590-3773. Seafood boil combos are the draw here, served at market price and by the pound. Several flavors (crab house Cajun, garlic butter or plain) and spice levels to take home or dump on the paper-covered tables to eat as it should be eaten. Other seafood dishes available plus Cajun items, like gumbo and crawfish etoufée. $$$ L D TAYLOR'S CAJUN MEAT CO. 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 725-0039. A few blocks down Grant Line Rd. from I265, Taylor’s is a spic-and-span shop run by a family from Lafayette, LA. Daily plate lunches often sell out quickly. A great variety of fresh and frozen savory Cajun specialties (sausages, stuffed everything) are always available, as well as crawfish and shrimp pies, gumbo and étouffée, and special orders. This place is the real deal. $ L

PHO CAFÉ 1704 Barstown Rd., 916-2129. Local restaurant veteran Tuan Phan, who worked at Asiatique for 18 years along with a stint at Dish on Market, is serving Vietnamese-style home cooking. There is pho, of course, the signature noodle soup, as well as other noodle and rice dishes, banh mi sandwiches and a small selection of stirfries. $$ L D h

CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 317 W. Woodlawn Ave., 434-7711. The diverse Woodlawn neighborhood welcomes the area’s first Haitian restaurant. The boldly-painted exterior is decorated with cool Haitian folk art; the menu offers generous portions of jerk chicken, fried red snapper, goat, and hearty sides of rice, beans and plantains. $ L D h

PHO PHI 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 290-3019. A Vietnamese restaurant joins the choices in Shelbyville Road Plaza, setting up shop in the former Home Run Burgers site. Phos, of course, and Bahn mis, and rich Vietnamese coffee. $$ L D

EL SABOR DE CUBA 7200 Preston Hwy., 618-2181. The flavors of Cuba can be found here on an ambitious menu of appetizers (tamales, croquetas and tostones), pizzas (including those topped with tuna or shrimp), Cubano (and other) sandwiches, and chicken, beef, pork and seafood entrees. $ L D hpe

VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h

BOUDREAUX’S CAJUN COOKING 1816 Shelbyville Rd. Inside the tiny Boudreaux's New Orleans Style Sno-Balls shack in Middletown, you can now find take-out only New Orleans style spicy gumbo (lunch only). Eat on the patio, or take home to reheat for supper. $ L f COUVILLION 1318 McHenry St., 365-1813. The name of Chef Paul Skulas’s Germantown restaurant, refers to the rich Cajun-style tomato-based roux broth that is the basis of his signature catfish dish. The menu features traditional Southern flavors and cooking styles of Mississippi and Louisiana. $$$ L D pf FLAVOUR 1767 Bardstown Rd., 409-6968. This Highlands space that was Asiatique has been quickly appropriated for Flavour, which features Caribbean, Creole and Southern cuisine. The menu ranges from conch fritters and Caribbean-spiced chicken pattie to fried catfish and ribs to crawfish etouffée, jerk chicken and Trinidadian oxtail stew. J. GUMBO’S 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 1616 Grinstead Dr., 873-5006, 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046. Former jockey Billy Fox has come full circle with his chain of popular quick-service Cajun restaurants — his most recent outlet is in the little house near Bardstown Rd., where it all began. Among the hearty, affordable dishes that have made J. Gumbo’s a go-to spot is the drunken chicken, still a favorite. $ B L D f

GALAN’S MEAT MARKET & GRILLE 2300 W. Market St., 618-3191. Carlos Galan, who has made a mark with his butcher shop in Portland, has opened another enterprise, in a former bank. His family-oriented restaurant, which has a Cuban/Puerto Rican/Caribbean menu focus, also has a meat market on site. Order breakfast, lunch or dinner inside, or from the drive-through. $ B L D f HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 320 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Owner Leo Lopez has rebooted his restaurant concept in a former bank (the safe is still there, behind the bar) and installed in the front of the restaurant is a recreation of the raft he built to emigrate from Castro’s Cuba when he was 18. Cuban-style tapas on the menu, also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. Live music most nights — tango, flamenco and salsa. $$ L D pfe HAVANA BAKERY CAFÉ 5510 Fern Valley Rd., 509-3410. This Cuban spot offers sweets and savories: tres leches cake, coquitos (coconut-caramel rolls) and flan; sandwiches or meat and fish combos (ropa vieja, albondigas, pechuga de pollo). $$ L D HAVANA RUMBA 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at this consistently busy Cuban restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D hpfe

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

MI SUEÑO 3425 Bardstown Rd., 709-4526, 4214 Bishop Ln., 458-1050. This honest little bodega and hot table restaurant serving Latin groceries and a variety of Cubancentric Latin dishes was, as the name translates, the owner’s dream. It was a successful dream, in that there are now two locations, both offering solid ethnic fare at affordable big-city ethnic eatery prices. $ B L D MOJITO IN HAVANA 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1959. Long-time Louisville favorite Havana Rumba has resurfaced with a new identity in the location previously occupied by Waylon’s Food & Firewater. The roomier location of this Cuban favorite offers diners a two-tier menu that brings together the best selections from both Mojitos Tapas Restaurant and Havana Rumba. Look for some new offerings, as well, including shrimp croquettes and a selection of flatbreads. $$ B Br L D pfe NAILA’S CARIBBEAN 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN 725-0399. This little place, tucked behind Storming Crab, serves island fare like jerk wings with plantain chips, as well as Indian-inspired items like curries, and when available Trini fried whole fish. $$ L D OPEN CARIBBEAN KITCHEN 4735 Poplar Lever Rd., 6011332. Chef Space, the West End kitchen incubator, has fostered another interesting eatery. This one highlights the cuisines of Haiti, the Dominican Republic, and Trinidad. Offerings include alluring options like sautéed conch ceviche, Rasta pasta, and island-style jerk chicken. $$ L D h ROOF TOP GRILL 708 Louis Coleman Jr. Dr., 785-4069, 414 W. Oak St., 618-2287. This West End Jamaican restaurant serves the native cuisine of owner Courtney Johnson. Look for jerk chicken, curry with chicken, turkey, goat and rib tips, along with Kentucky favorites like fried catfish, barbecue and beef patties. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 8833153. This Provençal-style brasserie serves classical and Southern French specialties, the comfort food enjoyed by owner Guy Genoud in his childhood home of Cannes, France. Dine like the French do on fish and seafood, a variety of meat and fowl, a daily "plat du jour", French cheese and charcuterie, specialty cocktails, draft beer and a large selection of French wine. $$$ L D pf

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The popular Germantown restaurant has re-defined itself as a neighborhood meeting place with an imaginative menu of freshly-made German and American dishes. The menu includes a variety of house-made sausages, schnitzel, rouladen, spätzle and the most extensive German beer selection in town. $$ L D h GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North Rhine-Westphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloon is as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. Serving classic Irish fare. $ Br L D pf www.foodanddine.com Winter 2019 73

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MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. $ L D hpfe O'CONNELL'S IRISH PUB 5520 Fern Valley Rd., 9640040. If you are in the mood for an Irish Car Bomb, this is the place. Guinness, too, karaoke nights and a satisfying selection of bar food. $ L D hpe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. The O’Shea family has been operating an Irish pub since the early 1900s. Today they have one of the most popular pubs on the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Diners of all ages like its burgers, flat breads, sandwiches and fish and chips. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 454-3919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe THE CELTIC PIG 217 E. Main St., 290-4846. Another food truck has found a home, this one in the Ice House downtown. Owners Sam Bracken and Melissa Ingram offer Celtic favorites with a barbecue and Southern comfort twist. Look for shepherd’s pie and fish and chips, two styles of haggis (traditional and hillbilly), as well as pulled pork and brisket and grilled cheese. $$ L D hp

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D AMICI´ 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying, traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic (and pet-friendly) patio on a lovely summer evening. The joke and pun-filled menu, updated by new owner Don Reinhardt, is fun to read, and his dishes have been winning raves. $$ L D pf ANGIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D p AT THE ITALIAN TABLE 2359 Frankfort Ave., 883-0211. Chef Gina Stipo has a real osteria in her Crescent Hill house, serving dinners Wednesday through Saturday at two communal dining tables, imported from her former digs in Italy. Book now for later in the spring – both her dinners and Tuesday night hands-on cooking classes fill up fast. $$$ D BAR VETTI 800 S. Fourth St., 883-3331. Ryan Rogers (Feast BBQ, Royals Hot Chicken) and Executive Chef Andrew McCabe have made bar Vetti, in the renovated 800 Building (now 800 City Club Apartments), a must-try spot for their classic Italian cooking using local seasonally available produce and simple preparations. $$ B L D hpf BELLA ITALIA 130 W. Riverside Dr., 913-1252. $$$ L D hpf

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BELLA ROMA AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. Bella Roma adds classic Italian-American choices in a pleasant environment in the midst of New Albany’s growing restaurant row. $$$ L D f BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honeybaked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family Italian-American restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D hpf CIAO 1201 Payne St., 690-3532. A crisp modern dining space with a menu that is a blend of familiar ItalianAmerican family cuisine and Northern Italian dishes. Creative takes on Italian regional cuisine include salmon saltimbocca, roast chicken with lemon risotto and eggplant rollini. Unusual pizzas are topped with mushroom and truffle, shrimp scampi and butternut squash. Flavors of monkey bread, a popular appetizer, vary daily. $$ L D hpf COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777. Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike other neighborhood saloons, this houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. Reminiscent of a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f GRASSA GRAMMA 2210 Holiday Manor Ctr., 333-9595. Kevin Grangier’s newest dining idea is his take on familiar Italian food, just like your robust Italian grandmother made, only better. There’s lasagne, of course, and spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli and gnocchi and several other pastas, but prime beef filet with Gorgonzola sauce, veal scallopini, whole roasted branzino, and pizza, too. $$$$ Br L D p MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 3949797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ Br L D hpf MERCATO ITALIANO 10640 Meeting St., 690-3200. This Italian market and upscale casual restaurant in Norton Commons is under new ownership. Chef/owner Peter Pagano prepares lunch, brunch and dinner. Customers can buy cheeses, bread, charcuterie, sauces, packaged pastas and prepared meals for take-out in the market section. $$ Br L D p MILANTONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1600 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 742-8210. This East End restaurant serves up all you would want in a casual Italian eatery: mozzarella sticks and calamari; subs and Philly cheesesteaks; pizzas and calzones; and a dozen or so different pastas. $$ L D p OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian

family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 339-7190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 9682978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 5840567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D p PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Start with fried artichokes, a Roman specialty. Opt for the grilled Romaine salad, then the gnocchi with spicy sausage. The grilled veal chop is a fine choice, and finish with tiramisu. $$$ L D hpfe ROC RESTAURANT 1327 Bardstown Rd., 459-7878. New York City chef/restaurateur Rocco Cadolini has transformed a Highlands building into an elegant upscale restaurant, with a handsome pergola in the front garden. The first floor has a large bar and casual dining, and upstairs sees a more formal white tablecloth space with several private dining rooms. Here you will find authentic Italian food, served with flair. Now open for lunch and the “disco brunches” are becoming legendary. $$$ Br L D hpf ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SARINO 1030 Goss Ave., 822-3777. Owners and brothers, Carmelo and Michael Gabriele, the next generation of the noted Gabriele family (owners of the highly revered Vincenzo’s), have taken over the short-lived Goss Ave. Pub space for their casual, authentic Italian restaurant that emphasizes fresh pasta and Neapolitan pizza, something Germantown had been lacking. The menu also features Sicilian street fare, Italian cheeses paired with charcuterie, and traditional entrees. $$ D hp SILVIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 104 Fairfax Ave., 8836369. Owned by one of the Melillo family, fondly remembered for their NuLu retaurant before NuLu became popular, this St. Matthews spot evokes the classic New Jersey style Italian restaurants of the “Big Night” era: baked pasta dishes, cheese-stuffed rice balls, pasta fagiole, and eggplant Parmesan. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D TOWN 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. The former Southern Indiana branch of the Come Back Inn has a new identity and a menu still focused on pasta dishes and pizzas with several new salads, sandwiches and a revamped appetizer selection. Other entrees include items like chicken piccata and Greek lamb pasta. $$ L D p TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 3630308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced Italian-American fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D p VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. Chef and coowner Josh Moore has revised his menu after an inspirational tour of Italy, and brings in fantastic whole fish for seafood specials on Fridays. His pasta extruder

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allows him to do things like squid ink fettuccine. Volare continues to be a top spot for suave Italian dining. Moore supplies his kitchen with vegetables he raises himself on his Taylorsville farm. $$ B Br L D hpf

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf

APNA CAFÉ 11322 Maple Brook Dr., 690-7555. This Indian café attached to the neighboring grocery offers a colorful and aromatic assortment of curries and more. $$ L D BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D CHAMLING KITCHEN & BAR 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2100. Another entrepreneurial immigrant family has opened Louisvillians’ taste buds to more ethnic possibilities. In the former Empress of China space, the Rai family serves standard Chinese hot table dishes, but also adds Nepalese and Indian fare. $ L D p CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also selections of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ LD DAKSHIN SOUTH INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. This Indian restaurant has won many fans with its aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p HIMALAYAN RESTAURANT 1578 Bardstown Rd., 7081477. Owner Teknath Niraula is Nepalese, but the menu is largely focused on northern Indian cuisine. There are samosas and pakoras, but also momo dumplings, various tandooris, saag, vindaloos and curries, and many wellspiced vegetarian dishes. $$ L D phf KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf KATHMANDU KITCHEN AND BAR 3825 Bardstown Rd., 276-1527. Named for the capital city of Nepal, this crisp, modern place in Buechel serves Nepalese food (a sort-of fusion of Chinese and Indian cuisines). Expect dishes such as pakoras, biruanis and even chow mein, but also Nepali items such as pork sakuwo (spiced pork chunks cooked on skewers), fried mo-mo (a kind of dumpling with dipping sauce) and khasikomaasu ra bhata, an aromatic stew with curried accents. $$ L D hp LOUISVILLE CAFÉ INDIA 12412 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. Meat dishes are an afterthought at this mostly vegetarian restaurant serving dishes from both North and South India, which also has a substantial selection of vegan dishes. $ L D SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D

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SHREEJI INDIAN VEGETARIAN STREET FOOD 1986 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-4000. The extensive, completely vegetarian menu of this East End restaurant looks to the street food of India for dishes not often seen here: a variety of chaats, masala pav, hakka, dosa and even an aloo mutter sandwich, filled with a blend of potato, peas and a balance of savory spices. $$ L D h TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f TANDOORI FUSION 4600 Chamberlain Ln., 255-2590. The former Zeggz's location has been quickly taken over by entrepreneur Purna Veer, who uses Indian vegetables grown on his Oldham County farm. Veer promises that his dishes will not be “watered down,” so be ready for uncommon spice levels. $$ B L D pf TIKKA HOUSE 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 749-4535. Tikka House has garnered positive notice for both its lunch buffet and a la carte dinner service. Diners have praised dishes such as lamb masala with roasted coconut, Tandoori wings, fish pakora, paneer chili, several daal preparations and saag paneer. $$ L D pf

THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the BardstownBaxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf

SIMPLE GREEK 3029 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0041. This national chain offers traditional Greek and Mediterranean dishes “with an interactive concept” — patrons build their own bowls, salads, pitas and Greek yogurt with a variety of proteins, toppings and sides. $$ L D f

GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. For those in the know, the Grape Leaf has long been a destination spot, well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery nich in both ambiance and quality of food. Prices remain affordable; the food and mood justify a special trip. $$ L Df

TAZIKI’S MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13317 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6222, 106 Fairfax Ave., 212-5373. At these Alabama-based chain outlets the food is made fresh daily with vegan and gluten-free choices. The menu includes grilled chicken roll-ups, a grilled tilapia sandwich with dill-caper sauce, gyros, a grilled vegetable and rice plate, roasted potatoes and baklava, along with beer and wine. $$ L D pf

JERUSALEM KITCHEN 4413 Saint Rita Dr., 614-6465. Little Jerusalem Café has moved from the Iroquois Manor area and moderately rebranded itself. You can still find a range of Mediterranean dishes here, shawarma and fattoush, gyros and hummus and so on. $ L D LITTLE GREEK FRESH GRILL 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 6908348. This Arkansas-based chain is now serving dolmades and spanikopita, pita sandwiches and wraps, a variety of skewers and mousaka and pastitsio. $$ L D p MAIRA MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 1907 S. Fourth St., 963-5999. Owners of the popular Safier restaurant in Theater Square have opened this U of L location, serving Middle Eastern food such as shawarma, kebab, falafel, hummus, lentil soup and baklava. $ L D f

YAFA CAFÉ 612 S. Fifth St., 561-0222. This well-respected Middle Eastern lunch spot had gained a fanbase for its hummus, among other dishes, before it succumbed to the expansion of the Kindred development. Now it has reopened in a prime downtown restaurant lunch space that has seen a number of prior occupants. $$ L D hf ZOE’S KITCHEN 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has two Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, rollups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $LD

MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L 4 SEASONS RESTAURANT 8402 Hudson Ln., 749-9969. Fern Creek boasts the first Bulgarian restaurant in town. The “Mediterranean” cuisine here ranges from the familiar (gyros and kebabs) to Bulgarian specialties kebapche (grilled meat), banitsa (stuffed bread) and shopska salad with tomatoes, cukes and salty cheese. $$ L D pf AL HAMRA HALAL BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 3844801. The first (that we know of) halal buffet restaurant has taken over the Asian Buffet at Mid City Mall. Over 50 choices will be on the buffet line, half cold (salads and other mezze) and half hot items. Familiar Near-Eastern foods such as kebabs, kofta and gyros will be available, but also dishes from other Muslim lands: samosas, masalas and lamb shank stew. $$ L D ALWATAN RESTAURANT 3713 Klondike Ln., 4544406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D ALADDIN’S MEDITERRANEAN 37 Bank St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. After bringing a higher level of Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany, Aladdin’s has moved to the cool new Underground Station complex. You will still find wellcrafted gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus in their sleek new environs. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D h CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 2716 Frankfort Ave., 290-6050. Middle Eastern food of an above-average quality. Kabobs and hummus, of course, but also shirazi salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemony dressing, and chicken stew with pomegranate and walnuts. $ L D CHARCOAL 2805 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 749-8888. Chicken cooked over charcoal and served with garlic sauce is just one of the draws at this new Mediterranean restaurant. The menu also lists classics like falafel, chicken shawarma, hummus, baba ganoush, tahini salad — and baklava cheesecake. $$ L D f EAT A PITA 2286 Bardstown Rd., 473-7482. Enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D FALAFEL OASIS 226 W. Broadway, 742-2030. The owner of Superior Market and Deli a few doors away has also opened this Middle Eastern restaurant, serving gyros, falafel, and other regional fare. $ L D 76 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the now-defunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PASHA'S MEDITERRANEAN 3904 Bardstown Rd., 4094532. You can find the usual Mediterranean fare here – falafel, baba ghanouj – but with influences of Jordanian recipes such as Kalaya, ground lamb cooked in tomatoes, and char-grilled lamb liver. Fans cite the value-sized portions. $$ L D hfe PITA PIT 434 W. Jefferson St., 450-6077. Pita Pit, an international sandwich chain, offers the expected falafel and gyros, but customers can also choose club sandwiches, chicken Caesars and Philly cheesesteak pitas, salads and breakfast pitas. It’s located in the long-empty former J. Gumbo’s spot, at the corner of S. Fifth and Jefferson Streets. $ L D SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salmon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 5851125. You can get standard American fare at this downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SAM’S GYRO 3123 S. Second St., 709-4292. This hummus and kebab joint, with its tasty food and friendly service, has moved out to the South End. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D h SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232, 4614 Chamberlain Ln., 919-9014, 1565 Bardstown Rd., 749-0385. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavash. $ L D f

ALCHEMY RESTAURANT 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), 619-4778. Venezuelan cuisine and Latin fusion. Arepas, fajitas and tacos. But patacones (plantain sandwiches) too. $$ L D f CARALI'S ROTISSERIE CHICKEN 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 618-0699, 211 S. Fifth St., 654-7131. You will find Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken and other South American dishes here: lomo (grilled marinated steak), chaufa rice and various salads and side dishes (such as stuffed avocado). Sandwiches as well as full dinners, and take away half and full roasted chickens. $ L D p CUBA Y MAS 5700 Outer Loop, 290-1672. Folks living in Okolona and Highview now have a nearby source of authentic Cuban dishes, such as the pargo frito (whole fried snapper) and the appetizer tamal cubano (the Cuban version of tamales). There’s a great selection of Latin soft drinks and tropical juices; try one of the tropical fruit "milkshakes." $$ L D p EL RINCONCITO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 742-9537. This Peruvian restaurant adds to the ethnic choices in Buechel. The happy chicken logo touts the charcoal-grilled chicken, but the menu includes salchipapa (sausage and potatoes), lomo saltado (a beef stew), plantains and Peruvian green rice. $ L D LA GUANAQUITA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 822-1343. This South End spot serves the dishes of Guatemala and Honduras: pupusas and baleadas and pescado frito (fried fish), served whole, head and tail on, garnished with lime wedges and avocado slices. $$ L D h SABOR LATINO 1273 S. Brook St., 276-4954. A welcome addition to Old Louisville is this tiny restaurant serving a “Latin Culinary Mix,” as a sign advertises. The menu offers Cuban sandwiches, patatas bravas, burritos, quesadillas, carne asada, ropa vieja and pollo de vacaciones – a chicken stew. $$ L D f YUMMY POLLO 4222 Bishop Ln., 618-1400. You can get Peruvian-style charcoal roasted chicken here by the piece, half or whole bird. American-style side dishes include fried or mashed potatoes, rice, steamed vegetables, slaw and pasta salad. $ L

BANDIDO TAQUERIA MEXICANA 423 University Blvd., 996-7788, 905 E. Liberty St., 384-2527. These Mexican places, the first in a strip mall near U of L, the second next

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to Falls City Brewing in NuLu, serve California-style tacos, quesadillas, burritos, nachos and burrito bowls, with a choice of four salsas at the condiment bar. $$ L D CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. This little shop along the lower Brownsboro food corridor touts “a world of flavor with a Mexican flair.” It’s mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. $ L D CANCÚN 808 Lyndon Ln., 885-2318. Another Mexican restaurant has taken over the Lyndon-area space that recently was Hay Chi Wa Waa. The extensive menu offers familiar dishes, combination platers, and steak and seafood specialties like carne bandito and tostados de ceviche. $$ L D pf CHILAKILES OAXACAN BREAKFAST 5600 National Tpk., 632-2000. This family-run spot serves a variety of Mexican dishes from breakfast and brunch through dinner. Some of the Oaxacan specialities are not commonly seen locally, such as tortilla entomotadas, egg and black-bean enfrijoladas or pollo rostizado with a spicy guajillo pepper sauce. $$ B Br L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 584-8606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170, 1075 Bardstown Rd., 452-8990, 13303 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7173, 420 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 425-3017. Now with five Louisville locations, this increasingly popular Tex-Mex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ LDf COCONUT BEACH TACOS & CERVEZA 2787 S. Floyd St., 634-2843. The menu here is anchored by bargainpriced tacos created to lure in U of L students from nearby (the place is across from Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium), as well as burritos, empanadas and tortas. Come the weekend, the huge space is converted into a bar and dance club. $ L D hpf

CON HUEVOS 2339 Frankfort Ave., 384-3027, 4938 US42, 384-3744, 400 S. Second St. (Omni Hotel). This popular Mexican breakfast and lunch spot with locations in Clifton and the Eastern suburbs has added a downtown outlet. Expect huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, breakfaststyle enchiladas (with eggs, of course), frijoladas, churros and molletes. Tortas and tacos at lunch as well. $ B Br L EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 266-9605. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, find much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with freshsqueezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (22 Locations) These locally-owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf

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EL RIO GRANDE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 632-2403. A Mexican restaurant has taken over the expansive space that once was Limestone. Patrons report good experiences, with both the food and the service. $$ L D hp EL SINALOA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 111 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-6489. A small but sincere Mexican restaurant in downtown New Albany. Some usual dishes on the menu – burritos, quesadillas, tacos and tortas – but also things like mulitas (think quesadillas crossed with tostadas) and unusual taco fillings like the Mar y Tierra with shrimp and grilled steak. $ L D EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ B L D p EL TACO LOCO 5622 Preston Hwy., 225-7229. This unpretentious Mexican restaurant tries to be as authentic as it can, and has persuaded many fans with its efforts. Inexpensive, freshly made tacos, quesadillas and other familiar Mexican dishes, served in value sizes. $ L D h EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave., 583-0440, 112 Meridian Ave., 709-5154, 500 W. Jefferson St., 409-9254, 9204 Taylorsville Rd., 708-1675, 5205 New Cut Rd. (Colonial Gardens), 384-8457. With the opening of the Colonial Gardens site and a store in J’town, Olé Restaurant Group now has five taquerias that all have diners lined up out the door. Familiar taco names — carnitas, carne asada — get clever riffs in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food. And do try the fantastic tortas. $ L D h f EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. El Tarasco’s take on Mexican food appeals both to the area’s growing Latino population and Anglos who want to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p

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EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family-oriented Mexican restaurant offers the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 4893839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf EL VAQUERO 5414 Bardstown Rd., 409-7819. This Ohiobased chain offers a wide range of familiar Mexican dishes for lunch and dinner with a few specialties like Molcajete Ranchero (grilled shrimp, sirloin steak, chicken and Mexican sausage) and Cochinita Pibil (marinated baked pork Yucatan style). $ L D p FIESTA MEXICANA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444, 135 S. English Station Rd., 254-7755. These traditional Mexican restaurant’s locations serve the expected things, like fajitas and burritos. But there is also an extensive grill menu, with items such as steak tampiqueño (rib-eye steak with ranchero sauce), Chile Colorado and Los Amigos cheese steak. $ L D pf FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p FOKO 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market), (210) 7925858. Chef Paco Garcia fuses his two favorite cuisines, Mexican and Southern. The result is chicken with jalapeno gravy or tortas with collard greens, among others. $$ L D f GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. When Fernando Martinez returned to Louisville, he started his remarkable new restaurant blitz with this East End “creative Mexican” restaurant. As the name emphasizes, the menu explores different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Fans quickly warmed to the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Christina. $$ Br L D pe GUSTAVO’S MEXICAN GRILL 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 434-7266, 10715 Meeting St., 690-7070. Gustavo’s offers “bold Mexican flavors.” Everything you would expect — fajitas, burritos, tacos — but also vegetarian options, house specialties like enchiladas verdes, chimichangas, shrimp tacos and pollo feliz (grilled chicken with chorizo and pineapple). $$ L D pf ISRAEL’S DELICIAS DE MEXICO GOURMET 1515 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9139. Israel Landon introduced Kentuckiana to his Mexican home-style cooking at La Rosita a few years ago. Now he is back at his original location serving street tacos and Mayan quesadillas. Weekly specials highlight cuisine from various regions of Mexico, including seafood dishes and new desserts. $ L D f KENTUCKY TACO COMPANY 502 Warnock St., 3653349. Once just a food truck, KTC now has a stable base — just a takeout window but with plenty of fans of their Kentucky style tacos: tortillas topped with fried chicken and beer cheese, sloppy joe, braised pork and a vegan style using cauliflower in BBQ sauce. Chimichangas and empanadas, too. $$ L D hf LA BONITA TIENDA MEXICANA 1999 Brownsboro Rd., 618-0207. This Clifton spot is both a tienda (a sort of Mexican deli) and taqueria, with a small, bright dining space with tables and counter seating looking out onto Brownsboro Road. There you can get tacos, gorditas, sopes, nachos, enchiladas and chilaquiles. $$ L D LA CATRINA MEXICAN KITCHEN 202 E. Elm St., New Albany IN, 725-8264. The owners of Señor Iguanas restaurants have opened this Mexican party food and

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street food restaurant in the building that Dragon King’s Daughter moved out of. Look for naked and dressed tacos, soups, salads and shareable dishes and seasonal menu updates. $$ L D hpf LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 3846427. $$ B L D LA LUPITA 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-0083. Tucked away on the back side of a strip mall, this is a new spot for authentic Mexican food. The usual stuff but also panbazos, tlacoyos, tlayudas and aguachile, all explained and illustrated on the menu. $$ L D hpf LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LDp LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566. This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ L D p LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2883. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $

LONGBOARD'S TACO & TIKI 302 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 924-7510. Ian Hall’s newest restaurant joins his Exchange Pub + Kitchen and Brooklyn and the Butcher in the continuing restaurant efflorescence across the river. A fast-casual concept, Longboard’s serves “chef-inspired” tacos and “tiki-influenced” cocktails in as cool a California beach vibe as can be conjured up in New Albany. Choose from 10 styles of tacos, poke bowls with rice, seafood ceviches, salads, salsas and guacamoles. $$ L D h pf LOS AZTECAS 445 E. Market St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville thanks to a growing immigrant community. Los Aztecas, one of the best, has moved its W. Main St. anchor store to E. Market, taking over the larger, spiffy space left by Wild Rita’s closing. It’s satellite locations are still bustling too. $ L D pf LUCKY BURRITO 2118 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Earlier this year, Christopher Seckman and new partner Adrian Jimarez Neri morphed the Douglass Loop location of North End Café into the Modern Latin restaurant La Suerte. Now the team has added a new offering next door: Lucky Burrito is a quick-service place with hefty burritos, nicely-priced tacos, and plenty of interesting ingredients and an assortment of deftly-crafted tacos. $$ L D hf LUNA'S MEXICAN ROTISSERIE 5213 Preston Hwy., 9628898. The owners came from Puebla, Mexico, but made a stop in Los Angeles before moving to Louisville and starting Luna’s Rotisserie. Their specialty is slow-cooked rotisserie chicken from the coast of Veracruz. There’s plenty more on the board, such as tamales, quesadillas and menudo. On Saturdays & Sundays, pozole and cabo de camaron are added. $$ L D h

LA SUERTE 2116 Bardstown Rd., 883-1000. Owner Chris Seckman has transformed his Douglass Loop North End Café site into a Latin restaurant. Partner and Executive Chef Adrian Jimarez Neri offer dishes inspired by his mother and grandmother. The dinner menu includes lamb chop barbacoa (a house specialty), pollo tostadas, shrimp a la parilla, pork posole and shrimp a la diabla. Brunch will offer molletes, migas, and jalapeño biscuits with chorizo gravy. $$$ Br D hpf

MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 Hendrik Dr., 671-5291, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 749-6651. The 3 local outlets of this chain of Mexican-American restaurants serve a Latin lunch buffet seven days a week as well as a full dinner menu. You will find burritos, tacos and tamales, but also several steak dishes and Mexican-style desserts. $$ L D

LA TORTA LOCA 5213 Preston Hwy., 966-3254. This simple, strip mall eatery has been around long enough to gain dedicated fans of their well-seasoned and fairly spicy versions of familiar Mexican dishes. Some of those fans recommend the agua de Jamaica (hibiscus).

MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along East Market Street, in the area now known as NuLu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ L D

LA TROPICANA 5215 Preston Hwy., 964-5957. This Latino grocery store has been selling a full range of fruits, vegetables, meats and grocery items for a while. Now there is a steam-table buffet with a wide range of lunch choices. It’s mostly take-away, but there’s also limited outdoor and indoor seating. $$ B L D f

MEXA TACOS 3701 Lexington Rd., 290-1334, 305 W. Market St., 822-3232. This fast-casual restaurant, now with a second location downtown, features a list of signature steak tacos customizable with house-made salsas, guacamole, peppers and other toppings, such as the special house queso made with poblano peppers. Owner Lorena Casas-Ostos is a steak taco purist, but she offers fish, shrimp and pork pastor too. $$ L D p

LAS AMERICAS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 3719 Klondike Ln., 365-2710. This Klondike-area ethnic place is a small Mexican market as well as a restaurant. You will find familiar items like flautas and burritos but also a few specials like mojarra frita (a whole fried fish). $$ L D hp LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small, thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz now also have a sit-down storefront just down the street. $ D hf LAS MARGARITAS MEXICAN CUISINE 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 963-5503. This Middletown Mexican restaurant aims a little higher than many of its peers. You will find the familiar (tacos, fajitas) and the slightly different – caldo de pollo (Mexican chicken soup), mole poblano and salmon al ajillo (garlic salmon). $$ L D pe LIMÓN Y SAL 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This authentic Mexican kitchen offers suburbanites many choices: taquitos, bocadillos and dips to start, soups such as pozole and caldo de camarón (shrimp soup), tacos, tortas and combination dinners. $$ L D hpf

MEXICO CITY TAQUERIA & RESTAURANT 3826 Hamburg Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 283-1072. This bright little Mexican place in a Jeffersonville strip mall offers the usual, and on weekends adds traditional Mexican soups like caldos de camarones, menudo and pozole. $ L D h MI CASITA PARRILLA MEXICANA 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 890-3315. Enthusiastic fans of the restaurant formerly known as Mi Cocina will find the same quick and efficient lunch service and dishes executed with skill at both locations, under the new name change. The margaritas at Happy Hour are notable, and the East End location has added Sunday hours. $$ L D hpf MI TIERRA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 742-9142, 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 384-3101. These two clean, well-lighted places in the East End serve up familiar Mexican food – fajitas, tacos, carne asada – in a friendly, efficient atmosphere that is drawing raves from its local fans. $ L D hpf MIGO 2222 Dundee Rd., 882-3279. Tacos, imaginatively conceived by Adam Burress and Chase Mucerino are the focus of this popular Highlands restaurant. The ambiance

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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is laid-back casual, and the flavor influences come from Brazil, Argentina and even Korea. Co-owner and bar manager Gerald Dickerson has worked up a notable bar and cocktail program as well. $$ D hpfe

Mexico natives — serves tacos on homemade corn tortillas, tortas, salads and burritos, using recipes straight from Mexico like the mole sauce by the owner’s grandma. $LDf

NEW WAVE BURRITOS 3311 Preston Hwy., 963-2727. The late-night burrito delivery service that has been operating out of borrowed kitchen spaces since late 2014 has moved into its own space at the former Grind Burger location. In addition to their five signature burritos new items include tacos, tortas and chicharrones. $$ D h

TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D

NOCHE MEXICAN BBQ 1838 Bardstown Rd., 467-8015. Inside a de-commissioned Lutheran Church, illuminated by the large stained glass windows in the sanctuary/dining room, you can find authentic Tex-Mex barbecue. Look for brisket and pulled pork smoked with Noche’s special spice blend, fajitas, flautas, green chili macaroni and cheese and grilled Mexican street corn. $$ D h pf OLE FRIJOLE 5612 Bardstown Rd., 822-3388. After a bit of a hike out Bardstown Rd., you will find oversized margaritas, well-priced, nicely made familiar Mexican food, and a welcoming atmosphere. The customize-yourguacamole bar is a popular feature. $$ L D p PIÑA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (17 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Ramiro Gandara’s Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, in control in the kitchen. Together they deliver some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf

TAQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D VICTORIA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 709-5178. $ L D YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 9030313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp ZOMBIE TACO 100 W. Washington St. (Moxy Hotel), 7167377. This always-open walk-up taco window at the new Moxy Hotel features Taco Tuesdays specials on tacos and margaritas, a 3-taco survival box with a side of chips and salsa, and deep discounts for restaurant industry workers on Sundays and Mondays. $$ B L D hpf

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Ct., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food MexicanAmerican than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (8 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquite-grilled steaks, fish and chicken. The Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. $ L D hp

410 BAKERY 140 E. Main St., New Albany, IN 946-9410. Owner and baker Emily Butts attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and at her artisan bakery in downtown New Albany, she creates breads (with special items on Saturdays), high-end pastries (which change daily), coffee and espresso drinks, sandwiches for lunch and macarons. $ B L ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665, 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 949-2334. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of one of these cozy Southern Indiana spots, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f

RAMIRO’S CANTINA EXPRESS 253 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 924-7770. Long-time restaurateur Ramiro Gandara’s second restaurant, a quick-casual version of his Frankfort Ave. spot, is now serving in Jeffersonville. Order at the counter, grab and go, or sit down and enjoy. Ramiro features his favorites: burritos, chicken bowls, nachos, tortas and tacos. A full bar, too. $ L D pf SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S (5 locations) This expanding local chain is going upscale, with re-designed crisp modern decor, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd., 459-7776. Founded by Saul Garcia down on Main St.’s museum row, his restaurant has an extensive menu that satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D hpf TACO CHOZA 3922 Westport Rd., 409-5080. In the heart of St. Matthews, this locally-owned taqueria also makes burritos and quesadillas, pours craft beers, and offers daily margarita specials. $ L D hpf TACO CITY LOUISVILLE 1283 Bardstown Rd., 409-9454. Tucked in between the Time & Space bar and the Joy Luck restaurant, this new Mexican place — run by three

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 3842667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ THE ARCTIC SCOOP 841 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4096602. Flash-freezing by liquid nitrogen produces super smooth and creamy ice cream, the owners of this family run shop assert. Choose your flavor combinations, and watch it all come together in front of your eyes. $ h ART EATABLES 631 S. Fourth St., 589-0210, 819 W. Main St. This chocolatier focuses on bourbon-infused and bourbon-themed candies and chocolate sold by the order or in shops featuring other bourbon-centric gifts. The small-batch bourbon truffle takes the bourbon ball to a new level. $ BOUDREAUX’S NEW ORLEANS STYLE SNO-BALLS 11816 Shelbyville Rd., This little family run shop offers the garishly colored shaved ice treat with all sorts of syrup flavors and toppings. $ f BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $B BUTCHERTOWN GROCERY BAKERY 729 E. Main St., 742-8315. With its move from a cramped upstairs space on Washington Street to more spacious digs on Main, Butchertown Grocery’s bakery maven Barbara Turner now offers a wide range of pastries, breads, chocolates, cookies, sandwiches, soups and take-home dinners. Good Folks coffee provides fresh-squeezed juices and local kombuchas, coffee and espresso. $$ B Br L D p CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 5612940, 601 S. Fourth St., 294-3496. Erika ChavezGraziano still makes her chocolate confections at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., but now has a large, elegant downtown space in the Hilton Garden Inn building. $ CLIFTON DONUTS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 749-6896. A family from Thailand produces very fresh donuts of all sorts daily to an appreciative crowd from the Clifton corridor. Fans favorably compare the offerings here to those at the chains, lauding freshness of product and friendliness of service. $ B COLD STONE CREAMERY 1013 Jefferson Commons Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0034, 2015 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-7750, 976 Breckenridge Ln, 894-6292. The angle that distinguishes this ice cream chain is the long list of add-ons that fans can choose to have worked into their favorite flavor: bananas, berries, candies, cookies and nuts, to name a few. Ice cream cakes, smoothies and shakes too. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 4095090, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 365-2853, 13301 Shelbyville Rd., 883-4131, 600 Terminal Dr. (Louisville Airport). Now fans of this “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor can find their favorite flavors popping up all over town. And, you can now find Comfy Cow products in Krogers ice cream section. $ f CREME DE LOU 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). House-made ice cream here, with all your favorite flavors plus - blackberry ricotta basil, Fat Elvis and Zanzibar chocolate. $ f DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 3689280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 80 Winter 2019 www.foodanddine.com

1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$

and sandwiches for lunch. Healthy juices as well as coffee. $BLD

DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B

L'BADS ICE CREAM PARLOR 2606 W. Market St., 8027519. In addition to ice cream treats, this West End business serves breakfast items like fried egg and cheese sandwiches, French toast and waffles, and sandwiches and pizza for lunch. $ B L D hf

DIVINE TREATS 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN. 5901470. This Southern Indiana bakery and café provides cakes, cookies and other treats. $ B L EHRLER'S ICE CREAM 201 E. Main St., 749-2236. Louisville’s iconic ice cream shop returns after a long hiatus. Good, locally-made ice cream and nostalgia for the ice cream treats of childhood will be the main draws. $ f FLORA KITCHENETTE 1004 Barret Ave., 742-3843. This Germantown bakery offers vegan and non-allergenic pastries and baked goods. Selections include cake donuts, toaster tarts, cupcakes, cookies, brownies, granola and macarons. $ B Br L f GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 4237751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4998, 10538 Fischer Park Dr., 426-2113. This Tennessee-based chain now has two shops in Louisville, offering a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HI-FIVE DOUGHNUTS 1011 E. Main St., 409-5584. Owners Annie Harlow and Leslie Wilson started with a food truck, and now are among the pioneer businesses in the Butcher Block on E. Main St. Customers can create their own with a choice of glazes and toppings or choose house favorites like Kentucky Fried Buttermilk Chicken Doughnut, Bourbon Caramel with Bacon, or Sugah Doughnut. $ B L HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 3737 Lexington Rd., 8933303, 3521 Springhurst Commons Dr., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 2393880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 5903580, 9561 Hwy. 42, 614-8202, 4810 Dixie Hwy., 4096100. $ L D h f HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this downhomey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers an eclectic menu of Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, as well as breads. $ B L D f JEFF'S BAKERY 5420 IN-62, Jeffersonville IN, 283-3636, 4430 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 725-7170. Donuts are the draw here at these two Southern Indiana bakeries. Jeff concocts 40 variations, some large enough to be shared with the whole office. The Jeffersonville location is open 24 hrs. $ B L D h KING DONUTS 608 Lyndon Ln., 890-5293. Donuts, yes, but you can also choose muffins, breakfast sandwiches

LIÈGE & DAIRY ICE CREAM + WAFFLES 2212 Holiday Manor Ctr., 791-7991, 12003 Shelbyville Rd. The East End and Middletown enjoy this shop’s locally roasted coffee and in-house crafted ice cream. Made with local honey, sorghum molasses, fruits, and non-GMO cream, Liège uses a process that creates a denser ice cream. $ L Dh LOUISVILLE CREAM 632 E. Market St., 882-1516. After three years as an off-the-radar caterer and pop-up seller of premium ice creams, Louisville Cream has settled down in NuLu. Co-founder Darryl Goodner offers eight standard flavors (including Camp Marshmallow, Brown Sugar Brie and Hot Fuzz, roasted peaches with charred jalapenos) and four flavors in rotation, as well as apple pies, bourbon chocolate pies and a third ever-changing pie. $ L D LUEBERRY ACAI & SUPERFOODS 808 E. Market St., 742-0640. This café serves açai bowls topped with things like goji berries, banana, chia, strawberries and coconut. Smoothies and other healthful options also available. $$ B LD MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NO BAKED COOKIE DOUGH 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 708-2656. The eggless cookie dough is scooped into cones or cups, and toppings can be added. Like an ice cream shop — only….with cookie dough. $ L D h NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This oldschool, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true — bacon. $ B NORTH LIME DONUTS 1228 S. Seventh St., 398-5739. This Lexington-based bakery has renovated a 19thcentury factory building into a warm and inviting space to eat their made-on-premises donuts on the western edge of Old Louisville. Some of their unusual flavors: blueberry cheesecake, French toast and pumpkin cream cheese. $ B Lf PANCHITOS ICE CREAM 8112 Preston Hwy, 890-3935, 2245 Bardstown Rd., 749-2375. Lexington-based Panchito’s now has two outlets in Louisville, offering Mexican ice cream, popsicles (paletas), tacos, quesadillas and other Mexican snacks. The new Highlands outpost is in the former Bánh Mi Hero building. $ L D PEARL STREET TREATS 301 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-8850. An invigorating walk across the Big Four Bridge will bring you down very close to this family-run frozen yogurt shop that also serves soup, chili, cookies, popcorn, and frozen dog treats. Novelty soda flavors in the cooler, but they will refill your water bottle for free. $ L D PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLLY FREEZE 5242 IN-62, Georgetown IN, 945-6911. The scenic drive out Highway 62 to this Southern Indiana institution on hot summer nights has been a tradition since 1952. Soft serve ice cream in any variation (cones, sundaes, shakes, floats), a wide range of burgers, dogs, sandwiches and sides. Worth the trip. $ L D f

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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RAWNAISSANCE DESSERTS 1759 Bardstown Rd., 4243638. Owner Barbora Shneydman offers “guilt-free” dessert concoctions, a variety of chocolate and fruit truffles, and cakes made with raw vegan ingredients. Everything is free of sugar, grains, soy, dairy and eggs. $ LD SCARLET'S BAKERY 741 E. Oak St., 290-7112, 200 S. Fifth St., (First Trust Center) 290-7112, 106 Fairfax Ave., 290-7112. This nonprofit employs exploited and trafficked women, giving them new skills and confidence in the future. Owner Rachelle Starr works with graduates of Sullivan U.’s pastry program to teach the skills to make macarons, cookies, cinnamon rolls and muffins, and to interact positively with the public. The menu also includes lunch items: Greek salad, soup of the day, grilled cheese, BLT and grilled chicken pesto sandwich. $ B L SNOWHAT 3801 Poplar Level Rd., 742-6080. After a hot day at the zoo, stop by this New Orleans-style snoball shop for a cooling cone. Blueberry and strawberry flavors, and for the more adventurous: lavender lemonade, watermelon basil and jalapeño margarita. $ L D STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ STEEL CITY POPS 1021 Bardstown Rd., 324-1008, 117 St. Matthews Ave., 473-5350. This Alabama-based chain bills itself as a “gourmet healthy popsicle business,” with its cooling treats made from certified organic ingredients with no artificial flavors or colors. $ L D h SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET FROG 1401 Veterans Parkway Ct., Clarksville IN, 725-7765. The hook here is a wall of live-culture self-serve yogurt dispensers. A toppings bar includes sprinkles, chocolate and butterscotch sauces, graham crackers — and on and on. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts. $$ h f SWEETS BY MORGAN 533 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 644-4276. Owner Morgan Coomer is dedicated to scratch baking and using real butter in her icings. Expect the usual sweet bakery items like cookies and cupcakes, along with clever specialties. $ B L D THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 4097484.$ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B

78 COFFEE SHOP 907 E Liberty St., 290-5046. This NuLu roastery and coffee shop, with connections to the SeattleSpokane coffee culture, takes its products seriously, as it carves out its nook in the burgeoning Louisville coffee scene. Located next to Falls City Brewery. $ BEAN 1138 Goss Ave., 785-4079. $ B L

BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ BLACKBEARD ESPRESSO 718 W. Main St., 618-0004. Former food truck Blackbeard Espresso now has a Main St. storefront, taking over for Mrs. Potters. Look for coffee, hot and cold teas, milkshakes and smoothies, which the truck’s limited generator couldn’t handle. Baked goods include muffins and scones for those who need a carb lift with their caffeine. $ B L COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f THE COFFEE ZONE 1301 Herr Ln. (Westport Village), 785-4676. North Carolinian transplant Craig Bishop has established a beachhead in Louisville. In his Westport Village store he features bakery items, such as pastries, and assorted sandwiches along with good java. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ hf ENDLESS SUMMER PADDLE & COFFEE COMPANY 1301 Frankfort Ave., 203-1041. Located in the Waterside Apartments, this stand-up paddleboard livery also offers a coffee shop. Fresh juice, smoothies and snacks are available for paddlers, paddleboard students, and landlubbers. $ B L FANTE'S COFFEE 2501 Grinstead Dr., 454-0543. Owner Leo Fante has been in the coffee business most of his life, and has finally opened his own shop across the road from Cherokee Park. Fante imports his beans from small suppliers around the world, and roasts on premise. There is also a limited menu of sandwiches, soups and salads, and breakfast pastries. $ B L D pf HEINE BROTHERS’ COFFEE (16 locations) Heine Bros. continues their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ hfe

repurposed. The one-time Pizza Hut in Clifton is now a purveyor of African-sourced coffees and teas. $ B L PEARL STREET GAME & COFFEE HOUSE 405 Pearl St., Jeffersonville IN, 648-1663. The name says it all: you can play your favorite boards games from the extensive library of such while enjoying coffee drinks, fresh fruit smoothies, lavender lattes, and sandwiches. $ B L D f PLEASE & THANK YOU 800 E. Market St., 553-0113, 2341 Frankfort Ave., 432-8614, 252 E. Market St., 9386423, 9561 U.S. Hwy 42, 544-9225. This small-batch bakery and coffeehouse offering quiches, panini, cookies, and a hip vibe now operates in NuLu, Crescent Hill, and a new location in Prospect. $ B L f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426, 802 E. Main St., 473-5379, 117 St. Matthews Ave., 242-8608. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the four locations. $ pf RED HOT ROASTERS 1399 Lexington Rd., 569-0000, 1007 E. Main St. The original drive-through joint moved across Lexington Rd. to larger quarters, and now an actual sit-and-sip coffeehouse has opened in the Butcher Block development on Main St. Owner Sondra Powell houses the business’s roasting operations there and has expanded food offerings along with indoor and outdoor café seating. $f SAFAI COFFEE 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555, 1001 Logan St. (Logan Street Market). This casual spot boasts the ambiance of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, house-made crepes, and coffee roasted at the Logan Street Market, where there is a second shop. $ B L f SANAG COFFEE 5324 S. Third St., 882-2210. The spicedup flavors of traditional Somali is the main attraction at this Somali coffee shop/community center. But you’ll also find a small selection of savory sambusas (meat pies) and sweet pastries. $ B L SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (40+ locations) $ f

HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 451-4545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattlestyle ambience is a plus. $ f

STARLIGHT COFFEE CO. 3131 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 542-1522. This sister outlet to Bean Street Coffee also produces high quality joe to those on the upper fringes of New Albany. In both you can find all the popular varieties of coffee and chai, as well as baked goods from Adrienne’s. $ f

HIGHVIEW ICE CREAM & COFFEE 7525 Outer Loop, 618-3809. This suburban oasis offers coffee and specialty coffee drinks made from Sunergos beans and serves locally-made Bernoulli Small Batch Ice Cream. $ B L D h

SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 5893222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $

KOLKIN COFFEE 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 920-0593. This family run caffeine dispensary on the north side of New Albany serves coffee from Sunergos roastery in a cheerful, inviting environment. $ LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L M+A+F GALLERY & CAFÉ 976 Barret Ave., 558-3031. Both an art gallery and coffee house, M+A+F has positioned itself as a quiet and esthetically pleasing spot for a vegetarian & vegan friendly lunch or a quick coffee and cinnamon roll, all made in-house. $ MCQUIXOTE BOOKS & COFFEE 1512 Portland Ave., 530-9658. Located in the sprawling Tim Faulkner Gallery, itself a hipster arts hub, this bookstore also has a coffee shop-café that serves higher-end coffee and teas, a selection of sandwiches, pastries and house-made vegan ice cream. $ B L D NTABA COFFEE HAUS 2407 Brownsboro Rd., 871-5082. It is always fun to see former chain restaurant buildings

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

THE SWORD & THE SCONE TEA PARLOR & BOUTIQUE 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 907-0018. This tea room in J’town serves a wide variety of teas, tisanes and blooming teas, pastries, sandwiches and salads. Stop by for an afternoon tea, or go all the way with a high tea, just like the Dowager Lady Violet. Available for parties and showers too. $ L D VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060. Owned by Heine Bros., this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f WILD DOG ROSE TEA BOUTIQUE 1570 Bardstown Rd., 996-7440. You can find all things New Age at this tea and book shop. In addition to dozens of teas, Wild Dog Rose stocks crystals, essential oils, books and baked goods such as scones, tea-infused truffles and muffins. Tea sold by the cup, or in bulk, and can be custom-blended to suit a customer’s preferences. $ B www.foodanddine.com Winter 2019

MAP INDEX

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MAP # DIRECTION DOWNTOWN 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel

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MAP # DIRECTION EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder

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MAP # DIRECTION WEST 9 west louisville NORTH EAST 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge

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MAP # DIRECTION SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 15 clarksville INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

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(WEST) WEST LOUISVILLE

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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