SUMMER 2009 RRP $6.95
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AUSTRALIA’S CULINARY TRADE MAGAZINE
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Special
EDUCATION EXCLUSIVE
So you want to become a chef is private or public best?
Turkey
A Food Lover's Guide
Gonul Paksoy’s Turkish baked gypsy bonito wrapped with spring onions and tomato peel
Refrain from grain Green pass for beef on grass Plus
WAREWASHING REPORT The full cycle on dishwashers and hygiene
Comfort of cold steel Chefs and their ergonomic knives
AUSTRALIA’S CULINARY TRADE MAGAZINE
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CONTENTS FeATureS 12-14 16-31 34-35 37 52-77 78-92
Chefs and their knives Food lovers guide to Turkey Report Grass and Grain fed beef Jamon it up Warewashing Forum and company profiles The who’s who in culinary education for 2009
Highly commended "Best Professional Food Journal" THE VITTORIA FOOD WRITERS' AWARDS 2001 An initiative of the Food Media Club Australia Inc.
AUSTRALIA’S CULINARY TRADE MAGAZINE
www.foodcompanion.com.au
EDITOR / PUBLISHER Mel Nathan
SOCIAL SNAPPER Bill ranken
ADVERTISING/MARkETING Mel Nathan
CONTRIBUTORS Jarrod Baker Michael yates Stewart White Ambassador of the republic of Turkey Somer Sivrioglu Sam Coverdale
IN CONVerSATION WITH THe CHeFS
SUB EDITOR Jonathan Porter
11 32-33 38 42 84 88
GRAPHIC DESIGN Dan Bowen – Pro Artwork 02 9999 3022
Scott Pickett, Pepperjack Connor and Padraic Murphy, Vue de Monde Steve Manfredi, Bells of Kilcare Massimo Mele, Hugo’s Shannon Bennett, Vue de Monde Josh Kennedy, The Tea Room, Gunners Barracks
IN CONVerSATION WITH THe PurVeyOrS 36 39 40 44 45 48 46
Michael Van Stom, Van Stom Foods
The opinions and views of the writers are not necessarily those of the publisher. Material appearing in Food Companion International is copyright and reproduction in whole or in part without express permission from the editor is prohibited. All rights reserved. © Food Companion International Level 9, Park House, 187 Macquarie Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Australia Direct 0413 616 683 Facsimile +61 2 9223 7761 FCI magazine is available from selected newsagents throughout Australia as well as direct subscription. For all editorial or Marketing/Advertising enquiries please contact Mel Nathan on mel@foodcompanion.com.au
Markus Gerlich, NZ King Salmon Peter Cannavo, Flavours Fruit and Veg Robert Tonini, Pasta Classica Antonella Brocca, AUS-ITA Phil Auton, Metropolitan Filters In conversation with the wine makers: Sam Coverdale, Even Keel wines
INDuSTry COLuMNS 50 Ian Parmenter, Perth Cuisine 51 Brian and Ondine Sherman, Voiceless Berkel Meat slicer at Victor Churchills If you have any meaty questions go to www.vicsmeat.com.au 4
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EDITORS NOTE Y
ou have to admit that Turkish food is finding its place in Australian culture. If you’re going to write about food you have to travel; you have to eat. This time around we’re talking Turkey, with a food lover’s guide from the Bosphorus to Gallipoli, and we’re on a gastronomic tour of the jewel which lies between East and West. No trip to Turkey would be complete without seeing Istanbul, and we couldn’t let our Australian chefs get out of the country without a glimpse of the culinary scene in this incredible city. Our gastronomic tour came courtesy of our two major sponsors: the Republic of Turkey Ministry of Tourism and Culture and Turkish Airlines. We have a new look to ‘Travel Companion’ and welcome back Sevil Oren, who has something to say about flying, sailing and eating in Turkey. You will notice in this edition we’ve been organising some culinary get-togethers. On pages 28 to 29 you can read about the experts who gathered to sample Turkish wines for the first time at Sydney Hilton. The event was more like a culinary journey than a discussion on wine. Bill Ranken and Jon Lindsay, our roving social snappers, have brought you pics of the best in the food and wine industry. We’ve provided some behind-thescenes interviews with chefs and purveyors that bring food experiences to life and comprehensive reports on knives, dishwashers and hygiene. Chefs will soon see a new range of knives coming called Ergo knives designed and patented by a chef who suffers from tendonitis. Meanwhile, our ware washing guide will help you make sure your machine is correctly sized to give you the correct result. This is often compromised when it comes to choosing a dishwasher. And: calling all recruits! FCI looks at the debate between private and public culinary education. With the success of the television series Masterchef, have you thought about becoming a chef or a hospitality professional? Every great chef has to start somewhere, and if you were wondering about a career path when it comes to culinary education, public education takes longer, but qualifications can be attained at a fraction of the cost. Designed for busy people, we plan to keep you abreast of the times and be progressive in thought to inform you on what’s out there. We hope this journal will give you a laugh and makes your day easier, based on stories on the local and international scene. Culinary regards,
FCI'S Travel Correspondent Sevil Oren
W
elcome to a very special issue of FCI and we are off to meet, eat and sail our way through Turkey. Unfortunately, Turkish Airlines do not fly into Australia direct yet, but there are murmurings about opening up a new tourism office soon, so stay tuned. I came to Sydney as a visiting journalist for the Sydney Olympics in 2000. At a morning tea at the iconic eatery, Rockpool, hosted by Neil Perry, I met Mel Nathan. I knew we would cross paths again. I like to write about travel/tourism and Mel likes to write about food. Incidentally we both have sailing in common, so we have attended many yachting après parties and events since then and met some great people. Mel eventually came to Turkey, invited by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of Turkey.Whilst here she ate, enjoyed, delighted, sailed and saw parts of Turkey including: Istanbul, Izmir, Konya, Cappadocia, Nevsehir, Urgup, Bodrum, Canakkale and Gallipoli. Colour, charm, taste, mystery, magic, history, art, fashion and sailing were all on her route. She mixed with some of the country’s best chefs, fashion designers, baklava makers, fishmongers and winemakers. We must not forget our famous Baklava producer in the country, Mr. Nadir Gullu. The sailing community welcomed her with open arms and they enjoyed sumptuous lunch gatherings at Moda Yacht Club and Istanbul Sailing Club. Mel flew back to Sydney with a sweet taste in her mouth; memories so full that she had difficulty in choosing the coverage of the summer issue. Sevil Oren.
ON THE COVER Gonul Paksoy’s Turkish baked gypsy bonito wrapped with spring onions and tomato peel.
Mel Nathan. PHOTOGRAPH Supplied by Gonul Paksoy
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We’ve been to some marvellous parties!
I will attempt to keep you in touch with what’s in, what’s out and who’s who in town. I haven’t JON LINDSAY & EN yet been to the opening of an envelope NK RA PIX BY BILL yet, but I prepared to open one that has an exciting invitation. Mind you I did once go to the opening of a door but that’s another story. Older I may be but not yet jaded and am forever wandering into the night looking for yet another event. Sydney is the party city and on the social round I could attend anything from a boxing match to the opening of a bordello and in between the occasional glamorous soirée with the A-list! Over the years, I have seen many of the high flyers come crashing down, only to raise phoenix-like some years later with another new exciting venture. Fortunately, Sydney still produces numbers of glamorous and beautiful people, sprinkled with visiting superstars. Which makes the emerald city still one of the most interesting spots on the planet? My equally enthusiastic social snapper associate Jon Lindsay was also out and about seeking the in crowd wherever they hang out.
Taste of tennis at Grand Hyatt Aleksandra Wozniak (CAN) and Le Petit Gateau’s Perrick Boyer
Melbourne’s The world’s top tennis players teamed up with New york, where hottest chefs. established nine years ago in their favourite diners had the chance to brush shoulders with Melbourne’s top tennis stars, while sampling delicacies from restaurants.
Peter Howard and friends
Amer Delic -USA Andy Roddick (USA) and The Press Club’s George Calombaris
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Chefs involved with the NAB Taste of Tennis at the new Grand Hyatt Melbourne
Grand Hyatt Melbourne Sous Chef Jason Camillo ‘interviewing’ The European’s Ian Curley.
NeWs Food PeoPLe
Back row: Moire Guthrie, Alex Herbert, David Younie, Lyndey Milan, Kristen Jenkins Front row: Teegan Lawson, Courtney Clarke, Tara Jane Johnson, Belinda Franks, Lindy Pollock, Debbie Gunn, Dianne Hudlestone, Pepe Salven
kins
Robert and Kristen Jen
Alex Herbert and Kristen Jenkins
TAFe Sydney Institute Tasting Success Program is a unique mentoring program supported by The Office for Women which aims to equip female chefs with advice, experience and support to complete their apprenticeships, remain in the industry and strive for excellence. Last year's program involved 12 female apprentices from TAFe including 35 hours of mentoring with a leading Sydney chef over 8 months including: Pier, Bilsons, Claudes, rockpool, Bird Cow Fish, Becasse + more. Mentoring arrangements are exible and the program runs from March to September. For more information contact debbie.gunn@tafensw.edu.au
Tasting Success
Tara Jane Johnson, Courtney Clarke, Lyndey Milan
Oysters in the House Another successful Oysters in the House was hosted by ABC radio presenter Simon Marnie, staged at Customs House, Circular Quay with three one-hour sessions. Guests were asked to rate Sydney rock oysters for the People's Choice Award. Congrats to Mark Bulley up in the Hastings river. One of the NSW Farmers Assoc’s most celebrated events on the calendar, where you can sample oysters and wines from each oyster-producing region in NSW with toppings designed by regional restaurants, with the evening finishing up at the rock Salt Bar. ley
Mark Bul John Sussman and
all the Where have ?!? oysters gone Lindey Milan
than
sh and Mel Na
an, Kevin McCa
Robert Goldm
Simon Marn was the MCie
rnie
and Simon Ma
s house
Oystergoers at custom
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hofield, Justine Sc harich Pu y on th An odwin Go lie Ju d an
NeWs Food PeoPLe The place to
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shop and ea
t.com.au
www.vicsmea
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Alessand
Granger ara and Bill
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r e h c t u b w e n ’s t a Vic’s Me hill’s c r u h C r o t c i V p sho
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The ey’s Woollahra. other, in Sydn no e lik e op om lc sh r we A butche – maitre will e a restaurant lik eds. st ne ju r n ei ru th ll store wi assist with the store and em th ry ow st sh du , in rs od shoppe e chefs and fo o work here ar d who have an ng The people wh ni di understand fine o wh there ls na sio profes r 10 years – so h Vic’s Meats fo ug ro th g yin been bu nce here. lack of experie certainly isn’t a
NeWs Food PeoPLe
Vue de Monde's S hannon Bennett cooked up a storm on the night...
nie Feoldie
Guest chef An
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Justin and Georg
ie Best with Mark and Valer y Doyle Greg and Jenn
h t 0 5 s ’ a i r o Vitt y t r a p y a d h t Bir Vittoria Ferrari
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NeWs Food PeoPLe
Hemmes hn and Bettina
Jo
i, CEO Italia Motor o Tony Grazzian
ignolet
amien P D d n a r lo y Anne Ta
Park Hyatt’s General Manager Marlene Poynder
"Good mates"
Peter and Bev Doyle
Christine Manfield
Neil Perry and wife Sam
CEO of Vittoria L wife Luisa and Patres Schirato with ick Benattou
Vittoria chefs – Italo Bassi, Copetta Fanella, Roberto Cordisco and Allesandro Pavoni
NEWS FOOD PEOPLE histle with
Paul Bertw
Sam Espie, Me
g Kerwick and
Kim Kirby
Amanda Guy, Brooke Railton and Olivia Skinn er
TOKO’s
NEWS FOOD PEOPLE Nespresso
CitiZ
2nd birthday cocktail party
Adi Byot and Pr
ue Thomas
Sigourney and lo Damien Cante
Buzzing Sydney hot spot TOKO Restaurant an celebrated a bi d Bar, rthday and its amazing sake the largest sele m en u – one of ctions of Japa nese sake avai The restaurant la bl e in Australia. and bar also fe atures an exte unique traditio ns ive menu of nal Japanese cuisine with a created using co nt em porary twist premium prod uce fused with locally-sourced a wi de variety of ingredients.
World lifestyle leaders in inno vation and tech Nespresso un nology veiled the late st addition to in-home coffe th ei r family of e machines at a secret city lo Drawing inspira ca tio n in Sydney. Maude Garrett tion from the st reets of major Nespresso CitiZ cities, the collection com bines urban de and colour; ef sign, shape fortlessly uniti ng today’s mod ern culture. The evolution of CitiZ is born e out of today’s Sydney’s iconic busy lifestyle an skyscrapers wi d ll become the the launch nigh artistic canvas t, projecting tw on el ve storey high of contempora video imagery ry life through design, archite music. All Sydn cture, fashion ey-siders have and the opportuni major spectacl ty to enjoy this e.
Camilla FreemanTopper and Marc Freeman
Jo
Alexandra and Ge
nevieve Smar Allegra Spende r
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and Carla Zamp
atti
Beccy Cooper
and Bridget Yor ston
NeWs Food PeoPLe
I n C on V e r s aT Ion W I T h
sCoTT PICKeTT from PePPerJaCK ‘BaTTle of The sTeaKs’’
ough Damien Wooln id and Richard Re
Bianca Dye lhan and Brigitt Se
Michelle and Martin Walsh Chef Keita Abe
The secret to cooking steak? It needs to be a great product to start with and then understanding what you want the final product to be. Born? 1975 Best kitchens worked?
Michael Pell rns and Sunny Bu abe and Sayaka Watan lbaatar ure Kh co es He
so Tender IT shouldn’T Be leGal
Zoe Foster and Carlie Fowle r
Michael Moore e Joanthon Peas
and Belinda Le
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Kate Waterhous
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on Pete Evans
Team Nespres s
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Alex Perry
The Square, London and Ondine and Paul Bocuse in Melbourne. Experience? Almost 20 years in Melbourne, Adelaide, England and France. Represented Australia at the Bocuse d’or 2005. Two Star Michelin for three years, also worked with Philippe Mouchel for three years. Donovan Cooke sous chef at Ondine, won best new restaurant, with three hats. Advice to future chefs? Search for knowledge, travel, work in good kitchens and define your own philosophy as a chef. Favourite kitchen tool? My Misono ux10 carving knife. Most useful cookbook? Larousse Gastronomique, it’s the bible!!! Favourite sport? AFL to watch, cricket to play. Any tips on Kangaroo meat? I love Kangaroo and have used it most of my career when possible. Particularly while doing my apprenticeship in Adelaide as it has always been available in South Australia. I do like it ‘pepper style’ and actually treat it similar to venison (or a big game meat) and enjoy cooking the saddle and the tail. Obsession ingredient? Salt. FCI F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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CHEFS AND THEIR KNIVES
The chefs at the ď‚„
Glebe Point Diner
Chefs will soon see a new range of knives coming called Ergo Chef, designed and patented by a chef who suffered from tendonitis and carpal tunnel symptoms as a result of repeated knife use writes Michael Yates. 12
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Russell Jaylines (RJ)
S
Apprentice, Mitch Constable
showing off an ergonomic knife
cott Staib had worked with many chefs in his time that had hand and wrist problems, a common ailment for some chefs. He developed this unique handle design that varies dependent on the amount of flexing that chefs use with certain cutting techniques. Over the past few years more chefs are turning towards Japanese made knives. This was started by Global with their stainless handles and more recently by Tojiro, Shun and Kasumi with laminated Damascus-style blades. The choice of knife is a personal thing, having the right knife for each job is critical as it is the chef’s primary tool. When choosing a knife is it important to have a perfect balance. Like motor cars, they all get you from A to B. Similarly, all knives do cut, but some do it better than others, and even that can be a subjective decision. Balance points in knives can be different for different people due to their choice of grip. The lighter weight Japanese knives tend to put less strain on the chef’s wrist and arm. If possible borrow some knives and try them out for a period, as just holding them in a store will not be an accurate indicator of comfort for high usage. The price comes into choosing a knife and again is a personal choice. Apprentices today are fortunate to have a government subsidy for “Tools of Trade”.
A huge proportion of apprentices will use this to buy the very best knives available. You do find a handful will just buy very cheap knives and as soon as they are blunt – throw them out and buy more. German knives have always led the way but now some excellent Japanese knives are trickling through. One of the primary reasons that Japanese knives have become popular is that they are sharper due to having a thinner blade than a classic European knife. The trade off with this is that to have a thinner edge the knife uses a harder steel which is slightly more brittle (like a razor blade).To compensate for this, most of the quality Japanese knives will laminate super thin layers of softer steel on either side of the hard core which adds strength and flexibility. There can be 3 to 63 layers in the case of Tojiro knives and sometimes more. This is called Damascus style. Real Damascus, which is a lot more expensive again, is a procedure of folding the molten steel over and over to form thousands of layers like in a Japanese sword. A testament to this move to Japanese knives is that one German company has purchased a Japanese knife factory to add a Japanese range and another German company is now ranging a series with thin Japanese style blades. Also every company now carries a Santoku
model – which is essentially the Japanese version of a western chef’s knife. Richard Smith, a fourth generation owner of the USA Smiths Sharpeners company told us recently that they are now resetting many of their sharpeners to thinner profiles now that some of the European companies were thinning down their blades. Now this then leads me to raise the issue on sharpening knives: most good chefs know it’s better to maintain a knife and stone sharpen them, than to neglect one. Chefs stone sharpen their knives as often as necessary but sharpening is a complete skill in itself. FCI
The new shape of cutlery Ergo chef knives have been proven by chefs’ to increase efficiency and decrease strain. The company offers exclusive patented ergonomic design that no other knives offer. Ergo Chef is re-shaping the culinary wrld with ergonomic products that match user comfort with the highest quality materials and craftsmanship. Ergo Chef products are also distributed across Australia. Zen Imports + 61 2 9807 9922 F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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SHooTINg STARS, poRKSTARS In the depths of the former Rozelle tram depot, some of Australia’s leading chefs flaunted their rockstar alter egos when Australian Pork Limited gathered PorkStars from around the country for a studded leather and chain-filled photo shoot writes Stewart White.
F
ar from the starched whites and gleaming stainless steel of the kitchen, the chefs met their alternate doubles, when even the most clean-cut of the group was transformed, into a ‘never mind the bollocks’ reincarnation of their pot-rattling persona. From the beginning of this food service initiative, the PorkStars program has embodied true rockstar qualities: the unconventional, innovation and a need to push the boundaries. The program encourages leading chefs and sous from around Australia to experiment with the versatility of pork and create cutting-edge and cost effective dishes with a wide range of pork cuts. Famous Porkstars: Giovanni Pilu of Pilu at Freshwater (Sydney); Ian Curley, The European (Melbourne); Bethany Finn, Urban Bistro (Adelaide); Nino Zoccali, Pendolini (Sydney); Lauren Murdoch, Ivy, Ash Street Cellar (Sydney); Stephen Clarke, Clarke’s of North Beach (Perth); and Brad Jolly, Alchemy Restaurant and Bar (Brisbane), came together over lunch and billiards to share how they do a pork cutlet. To match the versatility of their culinary creations, the photographic team worked to ensure each chef brought their own individual flavour to the shoot. 14
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Bethany Finn
Meat cleaver in hand, Nino Zoccali showed his more sinister side, while Stephen Clarke revealed some of his little known tats. Ian Curley and Brad Jolly put on their meanest faces while Giovanni Pilu lurked dangerously, and Lauren Murdoch rocked head to toe in leather and fishnets. Even the usually delightful Bethany Finn looked truly menacing while brandishing a kitchen knife in her punk style tu-tu. On seeing their transformation, some exclaimed that their regular clientelle might be reticent to cross the threshold of their restaurants, much less recognise them in their grungy attire. Just as their rockstar predecessors have done, these PorkStars have been using their differing personalities and culinary backgrounds to create a wide array of pork dishes - especially drawing on the boundless possibilities of the pork cutlet. Like a true rockstar, pork has been breaking records in its consumer appeal. It has been crashing through mediocre and atrophied menu thinking to find its rightful place in the spotlight; on the bill of fare. These PorkStars are playing an important part in the burgeoning re-emergence of the most versatile of meats. Their passion for pork is reflected in the creation of a multitude of exciting dishes. FCI
Giovanni Pilu
Lauren Murdoch
Nino Zoccali
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IN THE FooTSTEpS oF SulTANS a food lovers guide to Turkey
You only have a week and you want to acquaint yourself with Turkey. What do you do? Here’s how the week unfolded, writes Mel Nathan.
I
have to admit that Turkey is finding its place in our culture, first it was a tour through Auburn in Sydney a few years ago at the Dilek Market, a little supermarket Turkish style, which was worth a visit simply to acquire a container of capsicum paste, the most fantastic cooking ingredient I’ve come across in years. Turkish food is quite sensational when you get into the real thing, however for those without the time; the most obvious introduction is the ubiquitous kebab. So what is it really? Basically it’s a generic term like sandwich or burger. Doner means turning around which refers to that giant column of meat that slowly revolves in front of a heater. Shish or sis or whatever spelling turns you on means spear. Chop your beast into cubes, bung it on a spear (or skewer) and head for the barbie. My guide there added that in Turkey, kebab is also prefaced by the town, city or village from where it’s purchased. That’s why doner and shish are the only ones you’ll ever encounter in Australia. One of the surprising things about Turkish cuisine is that, contrary to popular opinion, spices and herbs are used very sparingly and use little hints which do nothing more than bring out the flavour. Turks are not complicated when it comes to their food and never judge a restaurant by its cover. When you visit Turkey you won’t just be eating kebabs or mezes. In fact, for me Turkish food in Australia has been misrepresented and I would like to see
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a greater use of hotter spices. The spiritual facts and mythology and the traditional food we have available to us in Australia is only a pinch of what real Turkish cuisine is about. I was so impressed with what the outer regions of Istanbul had to offer and especially Konya, and what they have accomplished in relation to the use of organic produce. I think more chefs these days are becoming conscious of dishes and cooking what is in season, and declaring provenance of dishes and working with a general ecological awareness. Eating my way around Turkey for two weeks, I could taste pieces of Central
“Turks are not complicated when it comes to their food and never judge a restaurant by its cover.” Asia, Anatolian, Far Eastern and Mediterranean layers, with each one reflecting a different stage in the country’s complex past. The greatest accomplishments of Turkish cuisine are its vegetable dishes, delicate pastry appetizers, silky braised eggplant, plump tomatoes stuffed with fruits and grains which all provide evidence of a deep respect for their produce. Vegetarians thinking of visiting Turkey will be in a food heaven! As a Sydneysider, the thing that
TrAveLCoMPANioN
TanTunI (Fast food) Tantuni This dish is originated from Mersin down in southern Turkey. It is unbelievably delicious and it doesn’t take much time. Men will love it, they love meat don’t they? Ingredients
struck me the most when I visited Istanbul was the fact that it’s nearly impossible to keep Turks indoors once the sun starts to shine and when the temperature starts to heats up. Since Turks don’t like to be indoors we are very much the same. In Sydney, we don’t pay much attention to the inside ambience of the restaurant because we all want to be outside. We’re out enjoying Sydney’s harbour and our famous alfresco dining. Turks are generally night people. Dinner is served about 9pm and people head to bars, clubs and parties at about 11pm. In summer it isn’t uncommon to see children and grannies out on the street at 1am. Obviously what you do depends a lot on where you are, most of the entertainment is based on the European shore. Everything gets mixed up in Istanbul, Wallpaper Magazine called it “World’s best city.” Also Turks definitely live to eat, and eat together whether as a family or as a group of friends and when dining out or at home a tremendous amount of care and attention is given to quality and variety.
2 pound petite chopped beef 2 big peeled and finely diced tomatoes 2-3 green fresh pepper finely diced 1 clove of garlic minced 1 big onion finely chopped (optional) 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper ¼ tsp dry rosemary leaves ¼ tsp dry mint ¼ tsp crushed red pepper ¼ tsp cumin powder Squeeze of fresh lemon juice Bunch of continental flat parsley roughly chopped Method Oil the medium pan and add diced beef. Let the beef release its stock and absorb it back. Add diced onion and green peppers one by one. Stir occasionally. When onion and pepper become tender and golden brown then add minced garlic and diced tomatoes. Let it simmer for a while. Add all spices to taste and stir evenly. Turn the heat off and serve warm with tortilla. The delicious meat, parsley, tomato and lemon juice would nearly fill the flat bread - it was rolled in and dripped slowly from our fingers. What a taste sensation. Sometimes simple is best.
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A word about alcohol, Turks like their drinks with a great conversation. The national drink is raki followed closely by wine and beer. We didn’t have time to visit the local raki manufacturing plant but we learnt that it’s the nation’s most popular drink made from grapes, figs and plums. It’s been distilled strongly and aromatized with lots of anise and never served alone. It can be consumed as a cocktail, but more commonly it goes best with cold hors d’oeuvres, meze, nuts or cheese first. In Turkey, melon and feta cheese are the best combination for accompanying raki. Istanbul doesn’t have many bars or pubs per say – more often, restaurants and cafes will serve alcohol with food. Getting drunk is also not very common although serving times usually extend through to 4am. Every country has its own alcoholic beverage and in Turkey it’s raki. But beware it is shared with a few other countries. Make sure you pick up a bottle duty free on your way home!
The art of brewing beer After eating your Tantuni in Beyoglu, you must try a beer at Balans Brau. It’s a private micro-brewery in Istanbul, where the owner has Turkish parents and was born in Germany. We tried the 3 house favourites: Weisbier, Pilsener and Caramel. We ate 3 dishes; fish soup, combining fresh calamari, shrimp, whiting, white wine and bitter tomato sauce. We also had Chinese spring rolls which were made from vegetables, shrimp, honey with cinnamon and soy sauce and then to finish off with the Balans Combo 4 for $A16 consisting of calamari, breaded shrimp, crab leg and French fries. I wanted Tathler (desserts) but we had to move on to the next venue. But the special chocolate balls with vanilla sauce, chocolate soufflé with ice cream and the fried ice cream with cinnamon and honey would have been good, but I guess I can try them next time around!
Farmed v wild caught fish The Turks have a high regard for wild caught but not so much for farmed fish. In Australia it’s the other way around, or what comes to mind first is the farmed Hiramasa kingfish, the top quality product that so many chefs can trust out of Port Lincoln in South Australia. Without going into areas of brood stocking, harvesting methods, processing and the environment, 18
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on my last day in Istanbul all I wanted to do was to conduct my own blind tasting with farmed and wild caught fish. The proof was in the tasting and not what I was expecting and the contrast between the fish was interesting. The wild caught fish tasted far superior; the skin was lighter, shinier, and livelier, presenting better on the plate, so presentable, astringent, sharper and more delicate. I found the farmed bass skin to be greyer looking, the flesh was slightly dull and off grey, bland and the consistency was slightly fattier. Buying fish in Istanbul is a treat. There are so many fish markets lined up along both shores. In a tourist magazine I read that the top picks for the month were lobster, sea bass, red mullet and sole, but not a good time for fresh fish?
Street food When you’re walking the streets you can always wrap something tasty between your two fingers, doing it standing up. You have to lean forward from your waist up to avoid dripping sauce on your clothes; a portrait of me eating my way through Istanbul, hunting for the best roadside cuisine, including tripe soup, iskembe corbasi it’s a famous hangover cure as well as kokorec, skewered grilled lamb intestines mixed with herbs, but then my real favourite was food was Tantuni.
Boots made for walkin’ I really wanted to get hand-made boots prepared by a Turkish artisan. Instead I will have to go back again next year, to get my boots for walkin’ and talkin’.
Coffee tales Coffee is such an ingrained part of the culture. Girls need to start learning about making coffee at an early age, so they can meet a rich Turkish man! First, the grounds are not to be swallowed, so sip the coffee gingerly. Secondly, don’t expect a caffeine surge with one shot of Turkish coffee; it is not strong, just thick. Third, remember it's the setting and the company that matter; the coffee is just an excuse for the occasion. Tea, on the other hand, is the main source of caffeine for the Turks. It is prepared in a special way, by brewing it over boiling water and served in a small, clear decorative or clear glass to show the deep red colour and to transmit the heat to your hand.
Sheraton Istanbul Maslak Was one of the first places on our list to dine and meet executive chef, Umit Yuskel, one of Turkey’s most talked about chefs. I also had the pleasure of meeting the president of the All Cooks Federation in Turkey, Yalcin Manav, who directed me to all the best chefs and restaurants and food in Istanbul. Manav, was a former undersecretary in the Ministry of Culture and Tourism. So how many different ways can you eat one type of vegetable? Here we were offered the “Artichoke Days” a lunch menu where we actually worked our way through eating artichoke in 30 different ways.
Photo courtesy Ozlum Ella Onuk.
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Award-winning executive chef, Umit Yuksel wears many other hats – Captain of Turkish National Culinary Team Captain of Culinary Olympics, erfurt Germany in 2008 President eurasia Chefs Association Assistant President of All Cooks Federation, Turkey
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Into the Turkish spirit
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Harry Kewell is having a cracking season
with Turkish football team, Galatasaray.
The world game I was lucky enough to be in town for a Galatasaray win against rivals Fenerbahce as one of the millions of people in town who sat in front of a satellite TV set to stay connected with the game, while I ate tantuni. Harry Kewell says, "Istanbul is a wonderful city" and summing it up he reckons, "it’s an eye opener and very exciting." When Kewell first spoke to people about going, the reaction was ‘wow are you sure?’ Harry Kewell, one of Australia’s great soccer legends, lived in England for a long time before going to Turkey. He reckons, "...the only difference in playing soccer here is the defence side of it, in England we were more attacking, in defence and everyone knows their roles. In Turkey everybody likes to attack. In the important games they change their mindset and they do defend." An Australian expat chef Brendan Speed informs me that ‘when you live in Istanbul your girlfriend becomes your number two priority.’ Soccer and religion is something that encircles everyone’s heart with cheers, joy and happiness. Tonight there was a smile on everyone’s faces, hugs and kisses were everywhere. Istanbul never seemed so beautiful – to see 30,000 fans out on the streets out for a party and vibrant street dancing in Istanbul of a population of 15 million, I’ve never seen anything like it. Run Mel Run!
“Fish is my life!”, says Konyan epicurean Nevim Halici
Turkish sardines (Hamsi)
The birth of Turkish cuisine Konya is close to Selcuk University with so many local ecological and farming people visiting here annually. Between 30-40 per cent of Konyans are wealthy. One of the favourite pastimes for these men is to travel to Istanbul on the weekends to buy clothes; imagine that? In Konya they like to travel, so Nevim Halici tells me. And the best way to conclude a tour of Konya is to climb the hill on which the mosque is located to get an outstanding panoramic view. It was an inspiring afternoon spending time with someone who has food so close to their heart and a doctorate in gastronomy. Combining culinary history inspired by teachings of Sufism or Sufi cuisine, you need to come here and take this journey of earthly and spiritual delights as Halici explains. It’s a busy week for Halici, she had been taking a journalist from The New York Times around two days before. The eating and preparation of food in Konya comes from the heart of Sufi religious practices and beliefs. I enjoyed hearing anecdotes from the great Sufi, mystic, mevlana and delightful recipes and market tours to find the best hamsi or sardines from the Black Sea. F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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Farm to table (Canakkale) I finally got to visit an organic farm! A special vacation awaits you at the Iris Hotel in Cannakale. I met the owner, Yuksel Ergen, who is a man that eats nothing but organic foods and runs like a formula one sports car. Back home this would be a dream come true for an ecotourism resort enthusiast, although the industry needs to come a long way yet. I was completely won over when I arrived here. Boasting over 110,000 fruit and vegetable trees grown on site and your own beachfront hotel where you can enjoy suntanning and swimming, located within a stone’s throw from the beach, watching up to 150 passing cargo and passenger ships per day. The hotel is right by the water with scintillating views of the Dardanelles. The hotel is within 10km of the ancient site of Troy. I always looked forward to the breakfasts here; you need them and you have to keep looking fresh. They have the IMO Gmbh certification for production of their food including: vegetables, fruits, olives, milk, meat, eggs and cheese, and all of his produce ends up in the Ecological Markets up in Istanbul. Every day you spend here will help you rest your body and soul, with the help of organic food menus to rejuvenate you. It’s like the sound of a marketing campaign that wants you to be healthy, and here they do it. It’s so offbeat and unusual, that anyone would love coming here.
lberries u m g in t a e n e r Sevil O farm at Canakkale. on the 20
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Gallipoli tour in Anzac Cove I went to the place where they have honoured 500,000 soldiers who lost their lives on the Gelibolu Peninsula during World War I. This peninsula is now a national park preserving that time. Combined it was a loss for both ways, uniting in the sadness of the soldiers I prayed for the peace of the souls of the Anzacs and washed my sorrows into the sea where so many perished.
TILES AND CERAMICS Today, the best of the ceramics and tiles on sale in Istanbul and other major cities are made here in Avanos. The pottery is built into a cave labyrinth full of all kinds of pottery, china ware and decorative tiles, in Cappadocia. It’s been used by the Galip’s family for six generations. you can watch potters spinning their traditional kickwheels with their feet, or even try throwing a pot like I did. What happens when you do it depends on the skill of your hands and the vividness of your imagination.
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Ciragan Palace Hotel kempinski I had a glimpse of how wonderful and opulent this place really was. I watched a helicopter land at the hotel’s landing pad, with half a dozen guests who were escorted to a speedboat then whisked off for a Grand Prix cocktail party on this enormous 120ft super yacht. Partying in Istanbul doesn’t get better than this! Ciragan is Istanbul’s most prestigious and was the first member of the leading Hotels of the World in Turkey. The “Institutional Investor” voted it as number 14 among the world’s best hotels. The view of the Bosphorus from the swimming pool was the most beautiful yet pulsating. Watching the ferries, yachts, tankers, cruise ships, speedboats, oil rigs, fishing boats, aircraft carriers, military ships and even the occasional rowboat vie for space on Istanbul’s busiest artery was something else. I was looking forward to the traditional candy stick trolley “Macun” rolls after coffee, but today not a chance, we have to hurry up, there’s still more to go!
Topkapi Palace The home of the Ottoman Empire from where the sultans ruled their vast domains.
Designer of fashion, Gon food and ul Paksoy
Fashion hubs / Gonul Paksoy Every district in Istanbul has its own style; and it’s hard to distinguish whether the locals create the style or whether the district determines the style. The district of Asmalimescit/Tunel is full of bohemian bourgeois types who earn their income through their ideas, the Bagdat Caddesi women stick to a certain style, they wear designer T-shirts and jeans, and the look is plain and reflects the understated style of the “Anatolian” side and Nistantasi women are very fancy and always a bit chic. Our first stop was Gonul Paksoy in the up-market suburb of Tesvikiye, near Nistanasti and is close to the address of her two high street fashion stores. Gonul Paksoy describes herself by name only on her business card. A choice of distinctly Turkish ingredients; sometimes grown like herbs to dye fabrics and also combined to make dishes that offer a combination of traditional influences with a creative mind and competitive price point. A chemist by training and a PhD in natural dyes, Paksoy has been creating hand-dyed, one-of-a-kind creations for nearly 20 years. She is also a very good friend of my colleague Sevil Oren who is prominent in the travel industry in Istanbul. Paksoy is not a chef, but a designer of food; her composition of dishes and ingredients never ceased to amaze me. Everything Paksoy served up was so natural and artistic, and compositions of the dishes were so effortlessly done. It was one work of art after another with distinct combinations of foods and herbs. If you are looking for quality Turkish accented designs including ancient jewellery and top notch designer cookbooks then stop by at Gonul Paksoy. F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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Sweet plates
A big day for Barack Obama and Istanbul’s Master Nadir Gullu with his work of art of the US President.
Although the easiest sweets to take back home are Turkish delights (lokum) or marzipan or almond paste (badem ezmesi), many say baklava has a special place among Turkish sweets. I jumped at the chance of touring the world famous baklava factory, in Istanbul known as Karakoy Gulluoglu. To kick start off the tour was a delectable morning tea with Istanbul’s Baklava Master Nadir Gullu, and after I tasted the first piece, it was almost impossible to resist taking another and another! He was enthusiastic about everything he did and said and he treated his staff with so much care and attention, just like his product. It was one of the best factory floor tours I’ve done. Baklava is a rich, sweet pastry found in many Middle East and Mediterranean cuisines. The most common is made in layers of phyllo dough filled with chopped pistachio nuts and walnuts and sweetened
with sugar or honey and the butter here comes from Alpine sheep adding to its distinctive flavour. Success is determined by the cuts made and how they pour the sugar syrup. The timber wooden rollers are made from pear trees and the bench tops made from marble. Gullu tells me that Baklava masters are only considered so when you can read a newspaper underneath the dough. Several cultures and ethnic groups claim to have invented baklava, including the Turks. Gulluoglu produces 70,000 pieces of baklava per day. In April this year, it was a big day for Barack Obama, dubbed as “Baracklava” it took Gullu five days and 40 layers of pastry to create a collage of the US President’s face, in honour of his arrival in Turkey. When we left Gullu we were taken down to their retail shop, to meet his father who was on the cash register taking the sales and smiling. Gullu said “When you have a shop, you should always be smiling.”
Dining at Feriye lokantasi Bosphorus sailing What a fabulous sailing track, the yachts sailing across the shimmering Bosphorus was very adrenaline pumping; you’ve got the challenging adverse currents, lots of breeze and very stylish après parties afterwards. We sailed in the Bosphorus Cup on a 42 foot Bavaria out of Istanbul Sailing Club in the 13 nautical mile race up to the Black Sea and back, wow. The tactics were easy; we had a good start and covered well, sailing in light to medium airs, we were lightning fast in this stuff. The Bosphorus is Istanbul’s lifeblood and one of the most strategic straights in the world. Dividing Europe and Asia connecting the Black Sea to the Marmara, it is spanned by two magnificent bridges. Enjoy the array of colour, the scented breezes, admire the palaces and old mansions and pass under the bridges connecting the two continents. The yachts clubs worth visiting are Moda, Istanbul Sailing Club, Marmara and Atakoy Marina Yacht Clubs.
A menu based largely in Istanbul classics, this was like a meeting with the past and located right on the Bosphorus. Here the architecture is 19th century classic Ottoman, the food comes with a taste of its own incorporating traditional Turkish and Ottoman cuisine with other taste varieties. The menu is very seasonal where they procure natural foods to carefully preserve all the classic flavours into a universal dimension through a postmodern approach. We ate a hot starter of the fish ravioli with delicate yoghurt sauce, followed by the urban baliklar dish the marinated grilled Seabass with poached fresh green almonds and wild herbs accompanied by sumac julienne style cut vegetables. The highlight of the night were the fireworks alongside the Bosphorus celebrating the Grand Prix Formula One, this city always seems to excite me, always and wherever you go.
Bodrum / Turkish riviera In Bodrum, the time is upside down. Nights are days and days are nights. Aussies can survive easily here because of the time difference, sleep all day and wake up for the night!
Blue Mosque Simit, a Turkish favourite. 22
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A grand mosque with a breathtaking interior, glittering with chandeliers and sapphire blue tiles.
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Grand prix formula one The world’s fastest vehicles converged on the track which is known for being wide, blind and demanding. We met Can Guclu head of operations who was formerly a Turkish banker working in London, and approached to take up the challenge of creating the first Formula One; this year it was his sixth. We met Wolfgang Stoiber the executive chef of V.I.P. catering at the park from Do & Co born in Vienna, who has catered for over 110 races and says that he will be feeding nearly 6000 hungry mouths here this weekend. There was not much kebab or meze but more of an international menu which the company is known for, which resulted in copious amounts of lobster, wild salmon, monkfish, turbot, sea bass, truffles and fine cheeses.
On the track with chef, Wolfgang Stoiber.
Woven art Whether you’re a serious collector of rugs or a first-time buyer who would simply like a beautiful reminder of your stay in Turkey, a unique experience awaits art lovers at Turkmen Art and rugs located on the road from ephesus to kusadasi set among beautiful grounds including tangerine groves, peach and rose gardens. It was here I discovered the art of traditional weaving in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, the glass of Turkish wine was deliciously good. Hand-woven rugs from all parts of Anatolia, were available at direct from-the-loom prices.
Watching the ferries, yachts, tankers, cruise ships, speedboats, oil rigs, fishing boats, aircraft carriers, military ships and even the occasional rowboat vie for space on Istanbul’s busiest artery.
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san, a r u T o t e m o When yeoeutoc taste and shop! feel fr
Young winem Guerin at Tu aker Edouard rasan Wines Fairy chimneys
Wines to die for
Epicureans, if your camera is ready some outstanding images are waiting to be your models in this region. Cappadocia generously spreads before visitors an extraordinary and lavish banquet of natural wonders exceeding their wildest dreams. I remember waking up in my Cave Room which was one of six cave rooms at the Ahbap Konagi hotel located inside a fairy castle run by the most charming French couple. The sunset was amazing; we watched the sun go down on a quiet rock, rugged up in the cold. In the evening the food here was all about Anatolia cooking prepared by a family from the village, it was the first time I’ve eaten so well in a cave, the walls were adorned with the most rustic looking kilims I had seen. The chef came out and we spoke about potatoes all night, wow! Sitting high above the swimming pool and canyon at 6am we saw 100 hot air balloons rising. This would have to be one of the best hot– air balloon flight destinations in the world, thanks to the unique topography and climate of Cappadocia, this low contour flying within valleys and canyons, and around the fairy chimneys. I really wanted to try hot air ballooning, they include a special celebration party with champagne on landing, but maybe another time! We have to keep going; today we’re off to the vineyards.
We’re on the treadmill now and can’t miss Turasan over in Urgup which is the leading wine company in Cappadocia established in 1943. It appears the funds here are being used wisely, rationally and with no attention to detail spared on the quality control side of marketing, in both the vineyard and winemaking facilities. The most intriguing thing about Turkish wine, to me, was the tension between international varieties (sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot) the usual French-born varieties, as well as gamay, cinsault and syrah, to name a few) and what the Italians would call the “autochthonous” (indigenous) grapes. The tension is evident in the pricing, with many of the international blends (and blends they usually are) being somewhat higher than blends made of local grapes. Young gun winemaker Edouard Guerin says Turks have moved up a notch on the “quality” of wine. Here at Turasan they hired me to improve Turkish wine to the French standard and to bring in new ideas. Turasan wines are top shelf and their range dominates the premium-end sector. Their cellar door sees around 30,000 groups come through here annually and harvest time is in September. When you visit here, feel free to taste and shop.
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Historic Troy The ancient city of Troy is only 30 minutes from Canakkale, in the Dardanelles, the famous strait which separates the continents Europe and Asia. I found myself walking through the ruins of palaces, castles and a city. The excavations, carried out in the ancient city of Troy, have brought to light the fact that the first settlement goes back to 3000BC. In the fierce battle portrayed by Homer in the Illiad, the people of Anatolia took the Trojan side. It was a war between Europe and Asia. In 10 years that the wars continued neither side had an advantage over the other. Finally, Odysseus had a genius idea and had a wooden horse made as a war ruse. It was to be a gift for the Trojans as the Greeks decided to retreat and go back to their land. The Trojans found it hard to believe but one morning woke to see that the Greek camp was empty and the ships were gone. A great wooden horse stood in front of the western gate. The Trojans accepted the gift and dragged the wooden horse inside the walls and rejoiced that the enemy had gone and the war was won. The Greeks hiding inside the horse then crept out and the rest is history.
Turkish Airlines welcomes you
For more information: Turkish Consulate General 66 Ocean St, Woollahra NSW 2025 Australia + 61 2 9328 1155 Turkish Airlines head office 16 Barrack St Sydney NSW 2000 Australia + 61 2 9247 8222
These are certainly testing times. When the world economy takes a dive, the first thing to sink is the airline and tourist related industries. The good news is that this industry can bounce back very quickly once things start to improve. I look at the food being served as part of the overall entertainment package on board an aircraft. Food creates discussion, anticipation and it helps time fly (no pun intended), especially for long haul travelling. Always passionate about design and innovation, I found that Turkish airlines have never compromised their A tip for passengers who want to get some of food and beverage quality. Turkish that intangible, though often elusive thing called airlines does more than just ensuring ambience into their flights – do what I did on my their passengers are nourished while very hospitable Turkish airlines flight home from transported in their cabins. They add Turkey. Accept your meal with a glass of raki then some flair to maintain the quality open up your senses, it’s about what you taste. of their food and beverages. Turkish Airlines employ professional in-flight attendants and set the benchmark for quality, presentation and unparalleled levels of unobtrusive service. The next time you travel, have a look at the food on offer, and contemplate the enormous task of supplying up to 30,000 passengers per day. You can also participate in aerobic classes from your seat. When I flew into Ataturk International Airport I was buzzing and ready to go again! I experienced one of the greatest and most delicious weeks in my life in Turkey and you can do it too.
Tesekkür ederim
I would like to thank the Republic of Turkey Ministry of Culture and Tourism for providing this opportunity to learn and live the exotic lifestyle and food culture of Turkey. But now it’s time for me to head home for some sleep after experiencing one of the most great and delicious weeks in my life and you can do it – if you can spare a whole week in Turkey. F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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E T A D p u I gAllI pol
Australians and mething that both so ll sti is n aig mp llipoli ca g our two countries FTER 94 years the Ga a noble link bindin me co be s ha It s. art he to do so. Turks carry in their ll always continue hip and I hope it wi ds en fri e iqu un a together in the place diers took place near alian and Turkish sol str Au een tw d be cts nta ad. The Australian an The first friendly co ves to bury their de gra g gin dig , 20 19 y veâ€? in Ma fight in a futile known as “Anzac Co side of the world, to er oth the m fro me ed to rs at Gallipoli had co . They were being ask New Zealand soldie them or their country th wi do to ng thi little or no sons of a land conflict which had rkish soldiers were the Tu e Th . irs the lly rea try war which was not t this battle, the coun give their lives in a knew that if they los ey Th n. tio rva sta to e and close . which was desperat uld probably happen rtition of Turkey wo pa the d an ers ad would be open to inv llipoli anniversary ve approached the Ga ha es tri un co o tw r years ou t were agine. Yet for many lives on both sides tha scenario is hard to im young and hopeful se tho all ing A more horrific war urn en brotherhood, mo ship of fellowship, ev each year in a friend from their sacrifice. d valour that sprang an sm roi he the stralia and Turkey. d thrown away, an sciousness of both Au on f-c sel d an s rie mo d rather rt in the national me es would see their lan play an important pa in both our countri ay tod le op pe Memories of Gallipoli re, with flags and campaign the r are commemorated roic experience of the da he t en bu cal ter oli bit llip Ga the t the in Withou the various key dates y in March and April differently. That is wh in Australia. a son, an eches in Turkey, and embered the loss of ceremonies and spe ich once directly rem wh s ilie fam e Th us. memory of those longer with the campaign are no . Yet on both sides the of ns s tio an era ter ve gen er the , lat 09 by In 20 only are now represented brother at Gallipoli, uncle, a father, or a still as strong as ever. which our shared who fell fighting is onciliation and peace rec of se sen the ssed m to be gained fro is solidarity is expre country was on. Th good deal of comfort r a e ou e urs sid co of ich is wh ere of Th less rk. He declared ign brings us, regard Mustafa Kemal AtatĂź the Gallipoli campa d its first president, an c bli pu fully. commemoration of Re sh rki d should sleep peace nder of the Tu the words of the fou sons of Turkey too an in the all w of no st re be s we ap oli rh pe emorations of buried in Gallip t the first shared comm er countries who lay tha oth r, of de rs an die mm sol co a len as well as that the fal ace and reconciliation genius as a man of pe his d an , war. him to is g It of the endin of the are ce with a few years pla k too ign pa cam deal in common. We the Gallipoli Turkey have a great d an a ali str Au . 15 way since 19 Afghanistan and ve come a very long stand side by side in ha a ay ali tod str rs Au die d sol an r y ou Both Turke d as allies, as of our mocratic nations, an and stability, as well ustrial countries, de international peace of rs lde ho up as both prosperous ind this comes, at ud of our record s good fortune. All of . We can both be pro thi d ces ha for t ye ing t ep no ke ve ace se who ha in UN Pe have achieved to tho learnt from it. d the lessons that we ead the prosperity we an oli llip Ga at red commitment to spr rience we both endu ieve m the formative expe n and has yet to ach least in some part, fro storm clouds of its ow me rso fea ny ma s pe that in this world which ha war would bring. I ho ow that we live in a rld kn o wo a als t we tha e he urs co rop ast But of ld see those ciated the terrible cat anding and we shou one before 1914 appre and mutual underst n tio era op co d peace everywhere. No an nefits of peace Australia is a unique between Turkey and a better idea of the be ip ve sh ha nd do frie we n the s, tio atriot genera honour their . To me and my comp th sides, seeking to m for what they are le of goodwill on bo op pe by ars ye who work against the the rnment and people gthened over gether with the gove rs of battle, but stren To rro g. ho din the an in rst de ged un for d es an bond, try they on shared experienc and whichever coun tter world, one based er side they were on ev ich wh ce, rifi dead by building a be sac today. Their rthy of humanity. roic dead of Gallipoli ns live in a world wo he tio the era gen ute sal ure I a, fut t ali of Austr suring tha th with them by en in vain if we keep fai came from, was not
A
N. Murat ERSAVCI stralia public of Turkey to Au Ambassador of the Re
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This article was published in the Sydney Morning Herald in April, 2009.
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Arman Uz's Incik Sarma Efendy's Somer Sivrioglu
Slow braised lamb shank wrapped in eggplant served with chickpea barley pilav
Your trip to Turkey is just around the corner Turkey’s meze bars, long the graze and drink favourite of young Istanbul urbanites, have arrived in Balmain.
WhAT YOU’LL EXPERIENCE AT EFENDY’S MEZE BAR: Slice of Istanbul on a budget. Between four people,
you can pay $15 - $25 per person Meze menus which change everyday Taste authentic Turkish ‘raki’ from Sydney’s
largest collection Anatolian inspired nomadic art installations including whirling dervishes display Fresh produce personally sourced by Somer Sivrioglu Dine at efendy: 79 elliott St, Balmain. Website: www.efendy.com.au +61 2 9810 5466.
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FENDY pretty much sums up today’s food scene in Istanbul and why it’s one of the hottest cities in the world to dine. So an authentic slice of Istanbul awaits you at Efendy’s new upstairs meze bar for less than the cost of a travel guide. Owner Somer Sivrioglu aimed to create a casual Turkish dining atmosphere where affordably good food and matched drinks could be shared with friends. Already a favourite among Balmain locals, Efendy’s latest offering has been designed as a more laid-back cousin to its downstairs restaurant. Designed by Burcak Gurun Muraben of turquoise.net.au and decked out in the traditional ochre colours of Anatolian houses, the Meze Bar reflects the rich and diverse cultures of the Ottoman Empire. Hand-made Turkish talismans, artefacts and symbols from Anatolian villages furnish the room, such as nazarliks – eye shaped amulets to protect against the ‘evil eye.’ Ethnic Turkish textiles are draped over the walls. Floating over diners is a ceiling-hung mobile of whirling dervishes, drawn from a mystical Sufi order. Its spinning of the many angel-like figures represent a human being’s spiritual ascent to perfection of the soul through love. A traditional Turkish wishing tree completes the setting, with small pieces of cloth tied to its branches representing the hopes and dreams of those who have come by. “All Turks believes a good meze is a great time spent with friends,” said Sivrioglu. FCI FCI F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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Turkish Wine – Aussie Delight When the experts gathered to sample Turkish wines at Sydney Hilton the event was more like a culinary journey than a discussion on wine, writes Mel Nathan, Sam Coverdale and Somer Sivrioglu.
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ines from the makers of Turasan, Idol and Doluca were on everyone’s lips quite literally – when Food Companion International magazine gathered a group winemakers, restaurateurs, chefs, media and members of the Turkish community at Sydney Hilton for a wine tasting. The Hilton’s Gary Johnson welcomed winemaker Sam Coverdale of the Mornington Peninsula’s Even Keel wines to showcase wine for those with a passion for Turkish wine. He took the group through a tasting of wines focusing on their characteristics as you would with new wines. When the guests entered the venue they discovered table settings including a showcase of not only wines, but of extra virgin olive oils and artisan cheeses. Sam then took his audience on an unusual journey through the world of aromas, fermentation and tannins – which were the talking points of making quality wines. The attendees were given tasting notes and a lesson in blending and matching from around Turkey including regions of Cappadocia, Elazig and the Aegean Coast in Turkey. The delicious range of cheeses and olive oils were served up to finish off the night. With the opportunity to network with the Australian and Turkish community along with Turkish Consul General Mr Renan Sekeroglu and wife Mrs. Hulya Sekeroglu, it turned out to be a very sweet subject. 28
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THE VERDICT by Somer Sivrioglu
SIGNIUM I found the Shiraz, Merlot, Bogazkere quite appealing for a balanced blend of international and Turkish grape varieties. It had a powerful structure from Shiraz, fruity taste from Merlot with the long finish character from Bogazkere with a round and balanced structure with hints of vanilla, raspberry, ripe cherry, roasted nut, cornelian cherry and smoke.
KARMA Cabernet Sauvignon and Öküzgözü combined are two grapes of strong character complementing one another lending bouquets that strengthen by aging, giving a balanced combination. With its full body, long finish and powerful, tannic structure it invokes the aromas of red fruits, vanilla, cinnamon and caramel. From Thrace in eastern Anatolia, this quiet tannic and full-bodied reminded me literally of an “ox’s eye”, after the remarkable size of its grapes and harvested from select villages of Elazığ in eastern Anatolia with its crisp and fruity character.
IDOL While the Ege baglari varieties had signs of an up and coming region, the impressive drop was 06 Consensus Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, with a palate of raspberry and spicy aroma contributed to the complex taste with a lovely balanced finish.
TRAVELCOMPANION Turkish Consul General Mr Renan Sekeroglu
Fine
Wine Partner's Fiona McDonald
Raspali Melhi
Gigibaba's Bruce Buckland
with Hilton's Gary Johnson and Somer Sivrioglu
Mrs Hulya Sekeroglu and Sevil Oren
Sam Coverdale with Bruce Buckland
THE VERDICT by Sam Coverdale (Australian winemaker)
Hasan Turasan and Edouard Guerin enjoying the fruits of their labour
Of all the wines that were tasted, I thought the wines supplied by Turasan from Cappadocia region were a stand out. I am not saying that other wines supplied were not good, but as it was my first time with Turkish wines and not knowing much background of the varieties and how they ‘should’ taste, for me it was purely decided on its purity, expression of the region and country of origin. With an influx of interested restaurateurs in Sydney and Melbourne who would like to buy these wines, my evaluation to the group was based on the bouquet, aromas and taste. I also learnt about wine terminologies and tips were much appreciated. I then talked up their styles and flavours as if they were ready for an Australian market.
Sinan Ogun enjoying a Turkish drop
TURASAN Emir 2007 Somewhat neutral on the nose, then it opened up to show some fresh floral fruit characteristics. Very clean and mineral on the palate with apple (malic acid) like flavours. A balanced wine with good acid line. Well made with a good clean cool ferment, retaining what fruit was present in the variety. My favourite white and one I would recommend. And to get an Australian audience engaged with this wine I would describe it as a cross between a Pinot Blanc and an Albarino. Seneler Narince 2007 What I got with this wine was winemaking influence, malo lactic fermentation and lots of oak. I could not get the feel of the variety, or the region. It could have been a Chardonnay from Chile. Turasan Rose 2008 Well made but I couldn’t get past the banana characters. Unfortunately I have been programmed to associate this with fermentation issues or esters produced by the yeast in the early stages of ferment. It may be the variety I personally would not choose to drink it. Kalecik Karasi 2007 Red fruits and some black pepper spice on the nose that was enticing. The palate showed red fruits of cherries and strawberries and it was balanced with good length and just enough power, the tannins
were smooth but with some grip. An elegant and balanced wine, this was my favourite red and again shows you what Cappadocia can produce. Seneler Okuzgozu 2007 Flavours of dark cherry and fig, some fruit and softness on mid palate, but just finished very short. It needed to form part of a blend, rather than a wine on its own, like a Malbec, Cab Franc or a Petit Verdot does with Bordeaux blends.
DOLUCA Sarafin Sauvignon Blanc A good wine, made in a Loire/ French style but for this tasting I was interested in only Turkish varieties. Sarafin Shiraz It took three bottles to be opened to get a good one. The first bottle had some microbial cork problem, the second bottle was just corked TCA. The third was good, beautiful spicy and lifted, nice savoury fruit with good length and tannin structure if not slightly drying. Would be good with food and would have benefited with more time to open up. I would be happy to drink this wine again. This could work maybe in the Australian market. The Doluca wines were interesting but again, I wanted to be focused on Turkish varieties during this tasting session.
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TrAveLCoMPANioN
I n C on V e r s aT I on W I T h
Born? Malatya, Turkey. Education? Degree in journalism, University of Istanbul. What Keeps You going? I am a nationalist person and to introduce more Turkish cuisine into the world PresIdenT of all CooKs federaTIon, TurKey and Australia, this keeps me motivated. Since 1996 (foundation year of TAF) we won over 100 medals which is a perfect motivation for all of us. Advice to Future Chefs? What you learn should always be passed onto the younger generations and chefs. Favourite kitchen tools? A sharp knife, a good oven and stove. Being a member of the turkish All Cooks Federation? We have a national team of 60 chefs and we are training 44 chefs for the team at the moment. We run over 20 cook offs over the country and choose the I love being on the Bosphorus. For me it is the best part of Istanbul, team members, the combination of the continents always a source of muse for me. it just goes to show that this is a useful method. After that we train them for the international cook offs. We’re always passing our knowledge onto the new ones. The young ones are our future so we should do something to pass our knowledge to them. Now we are training 44 young chefs for the international cook offs and in 12 months we will have a national team of 104 chef members. Most useful cook book? Creative Recipes from Serkan Bozkurt and Kitchen Art by Zeynep Ada Ulusoy. Early influences and career turning point? I have always been a gourmet and loved to eat. Before 1996, I was working for the Tourism Department and in 1996 they called me to be the head of TAF (All Cooks Federation). Being the head of TAF was not something that I thought about before. I refused in the beginning but they reminded me how nationalist I am and how many things I can do for the Turkish Cuisine plus the Future Turkish Chefs and in the first month after I became the head of TAF we won a gold medal at Malta, so I accepted the job. It was the best decision I made. Favourite sport? Swimming. I have a gold medal as a champion of Turkey. Overview on the turkish wine industry? Wine originated in Anatolia and its values have been forgotten over the years but now it is getting better and Turkish wines are getting a good reputation internationally. For more information on We have got many unique grape types and they TAF (All Cooks Federation) produce unique wines. Look out for Turkish wines go to www.tumaf.org.tr on the shelf in the future. Discovery of the year? We have been discovered by WACS - they are the World Association of Cooks Society and we have been a member since May 2008. FCI
yalCIn manaV
ConTInenTal shIfT
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Ish Tosun aT GIGIBaBa, melBourne
Ta, Ish The meze and tapas bar concept is the ideal way to showcase modern Turkish cuisine. Born? Turkey. Family moved to Australia when I was 4. Education? Year 9. Then straight into cooking. Best kitchens worked? Always my own. Favourite cheap eat? Crusty bread, olives, a ripe tomato and good feta. What keeps you going? My two daughters. Advice to future young chefs? Believe. Favourite kitchen tool? Trevor, my sous chef. Most controversial menu item? Sheeps head soup. Most useful cookbook? Too many. I have hundreds of them. Early influences? Greg Malouf On classic v modern cuisine in turkey? There is no modern Turkish food in Turkey. Career you would have pursued if you had not become a chef? The next Gianni Versace. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Bring back the “biff.” Favourite sport? Football - the world game. Ingredient obsession? Artichokes. On turkish wines? We don’t see any
quality Turkish wines in Australia. The sooner we can get them over here the better. There is a strong wine culture in Australia that blends perfectly with Turkish food. Organic food here and turkey? Doesn’t compare. The produce in Turkey is much better. Describe the lifestyle in Perth when you were there? Whimsical. FCI
A
FTer leaving his homeland of Turkey as a toddler, he moved from Istanbul to Melbourne for many years and then shifted his family west to Perth, where his
Ish with sous chef, Trevor
life changed forever. He previously had great success with the eminem style in Perth. Now, returning to Melbourne after a sabbatical in Istanbul, Ish has opened Gigibaba Turkish Tapas and doing what he loves the most. Ish says the meze bar concept in Melbourne is the ideal way to showcase his signature modern Turkish cuisine It has a warm and intimate tapas or ‘meze’ environment, featuring his unique personal styling, in the exciting and constantly evolving food and wine precinct of Smith Street in Collingwood. Gigibaba features an array of small, shared dishes Gigibaba 102 Smith Street Collingwood, Melbourne 3066 + 61 3 9486 0345
and appetizers, including many of Ish’s signature dishes. The other side of the coin - bar - is a focus too, with an eclectic wine list featuring more than 20 wines by the glass.
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The World aT TheIr feeT (Two Little Chefs)
I n c on v e r s at i on w i t h
Connor murPhy Culinary education? My mother
and father encouraged my brother Paddy and I to cook and be involved with food and always have. Shannon has also encouraged us by teaching us how to work his pass at Vue de hy p r u M r o Monde and always having time for n Con us. He is always giving us advice on how we can improve our skills and widen our food knowledge. Brian, the manager of Vue also helps me to stay enthusiastic about food. Best kitchens worked? Vue de Monde is the best, although I only help out on the pass with my brother. I have also had the opportunity to oversee the kitchen at Le Pelican in Sydney, and met with many other chefs. Le Pelican would have to be another one of my best. I was impressed with the kitchen at Tetsuya’s because it was so organised and quiet. Favourite cheap eat? Pasta from Pasta Classica in Smith Street
Collingwood. Advice to future young chefs? Keep on cooking no matter what and find inspiration in every day life. Favourite kitchen tool? My favourite kitchen tool would have to be my garnishing set from my dad. I love being able to make new shapes and creations with it. It’s fun. Most controversial menu item? Truffles! People either love them or hate them and I love them. Favourite thing about Melbourne? That’s easy - Vue de Monde. Most useful cookbook? The cookbook Michel Roux gave to my brother and I about eggs. I love eggs almost as much as Truffles! But all cookbooks are great, can never have enough books. Early influences? My Mum and Dad were my main influences when I was younger and my uncle Cameron who is also a chef. I look to people like Shannon for inspiration. I also like Brendan McQueen of Mateo’s - he is a great chef. On classic vs modern cuisine? I like both types of food and I think there is a place for all types of food in the world, but I like the scientific approach of modern cuisine a lot. FCI
EXCLUSIVE CHEF INTERVIEWS by Connor and Padraic Murphy "My culinary philosophy has always been about seasoning and tasting your food and being a chef you are always an apprentice."
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Roll `em, ho! siLK roAd's dArreN Ho
We spoke to Darren Ho, a former Hunter Valley name who now resides in Melbourne and heading up the kitchens at Silk Road down on Collins Street. Darren began cooking from seven years old in his Dad's kitchen. He likes using Furi knives in the kitchen and Trident knives when he is competing. The first kitchen he worked at was The Lanson Restaurant. On cooking at home it really depends on what mood he is in and his mood has a close relationship with what he likes to eat and when he eats. He likes dining at Vue de Monde, Asiana and Bistro Guillaume. The best kitchen he worked in so far was at Terroir in the Hunter Valley which was perfectly laid out for work and a breeze to work in. When sourcing a new purveyor, he always likes to hunt for the best quality produce and the best price. His advice for young chefs is to always season and taste your food and be patient. He travels often and does guest chef appearances in foreign countries, he places importance on always learning about the cultures of that country.
FCI talks to Connor and Padraic on their experience of working with Shannon Bennett at Vue de Monde and their take on the Melbourne culinary scene. I n c on v e r s at i on w i t h
PadraIC murPhy Born? 1995 Carlton, Victoria. Education? Mum and Dad have always taught me about cooking and shopping for food from a young age. Most useful cookbook? My brother and I have a lot of cookbooks and that helps us to find new things to make and cook with. The best book I own is my Oriel Balaguer book that Brian from Vue presented to me for my 13th birthday. Best kitchens worked? Le Pelican and Vue would have to be my favourites. My brother and I also love to work with Robert and Daniel Tonin, they teach us to make pasta and it is the best pasta we have ever eaten. They have been teaching us about flavours and ingredients that really bring food alive. Favourite cheap eat? I love the curries from the Classic Curry Company. They are in the CBD but deliver to my house and make a mean Vindaloo too. What keeps you going? The encouragement I get from my Mum and Dad. Also the support I get from my brother, Connor who is also a great ``little chef’’. Advice to future young chefs? Don’t lose your passion for cooking, and never stop learning new things. Favourite kitchen tool? My garnish set. We spend hours making different sculptures out of food. Most controversial menu item? Snails, I first had them at Vue and I loved them. Since then I have had them
Niche work if you can get it MoMo's GreG MALouF We also said hello to Greg Malouf at Melbourne’s Momo down in Beany Lane next to the Spice Market, this place is really opulent and a must to visit when in Melbourne. Greg reckons you have to do things other than just cooking; like guest chefing and doing cook books – most chefs don’t receive these opportunities. Find your niche and make it work for you or the diners and the critics will not be that interested in you. My inspiration came from my mother’s kitchen when I was young (born in Australia to Lebanese parents) and food plays a big part in the Lebanese culture. This food here is all about my childhood and growing up – it’s all tied in together; it’s not so structured with all these courses or fluff or foam. My role now is more about mentoring young chefs and working in a great kitchen like Momo. This kitchen is large with lots of bench space because of the banquets; we have a stone fired oven with a blistering dry heat which is good for scorching and caramelizing. In France once I worked in an underground kitchen.
at the Langhome and they weren’t as good as Shannon’s. Favourite thing about Melbourne? The food and the restaurants like Vue de Monde, Matteo’s, Tokyo Teppanyaki, Crown Casino, Southbank and the Padraic M urphy food and wine shows that Mum and Dad take us to. Most useful cookbook? All cook books are useful because you can always change the recipes to your liking. Early influences? On classic vs modern cuisine? I believe modern cuisine uses a more scientific approach and I like that. Classic cuisine is a nice rustic change from the molecular and fusion cooking that can be a bit rich if you have it all the time. Favourite sport? I love soccer and hockey. When my brother and I were younger our Mum used to be a Thai boxer so we spent a lot of time in the gym while she trained. I like to watch the fights too. Do you like Kangaroo? Yes, but I found it very gamey and a bit chewy, with a texture like duck. Ingredient obsessions? Garlic, chilli, tomato and truffles, I love truffles. FCI
"As a chef you need to have something that no one has – you need a point of difference and journalists will support you."
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Grass goes against the grain Anthony Puharich of Vic’s Meats predicts that in the very near future grain and grass fed beef will be industry rivals, writes Jarrod Baker.
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“Today has been a real eye-opener for me. I applaud Craig and his team for having the foresight to develop an education on this type of beef. The consistency of grass fed was definitely surprising and, if it maintains this level, I’m sure the whole market will change in a very short period of time.” Anthony Puharich.
Lunch-goer
Anthony Puharich, Managing Director of Vic’s Premium Quality Meat, a grain fed and aged meat specialist now based in Sydney, Singapore and Shanghai.
Rosemary Reed hearing the facts on serving grass fed and grain fed beef from Craig Macindoe.
Food writer John Newton with Vicky Poulter from
Social pixs by Philip Weir
Nourishing Australia, a not-for-profit organisation passionate about nourishing our soils, plants, animals, people, communities and ultimately our planet.
“I’m glad that today we have shown people that there is a viable and sustainable option out there in the marketplace. At MUMU, we are behind this type of beef and our patrons agree with us with frequent repeat visits.” Craig Macindoe.
Craig Macindoe, owner/head chef of MUMU Grill, a restaurant which specialises in grass fed beef sourced from around Australia.
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NTHONY Puharich describes the difference between grass and grain fed beef as being more than a mere matter of personal opinion. They are different, in much the same way as one cheese is better than another or one wine better than the rest. At MUMU grill in Sydney’s Crows Nest, which is believed to be the only restaurant totally dedicated to grass fed beef in Australia this was certainly the case. Some of Australia’s leading food journalists, analysts and industry experts chewed the fat (literally) on the state of the current beef industry and grass fed beef’s place within it. Encouraged by head chef Craig Macindoe’s selection of dishes served with both grass (pasture fed) and grain fed (lot fed) steak, and by the Australian wines that thrilled and spilled those in attendance the experts began to seriously tackle the issue. While the difference in taste is subtle (65% of attendees preferring the grass fed dishes), it seems when it comes to the health and environmentally conscious, grass fed steak wins hands down. Vicki Poulter, a respected scientific food specialist described it “as one of the most healthy and sustainable foods on the planet”. She was alluding to the higher amounts of omega-3s, Vitamin E, and CLAs which are fatty acids that encourage weight loss and may prevent cancer. But wait, the battle has not been won, well at least not
that easily. Currently Vic’s Meats, the biggest meat distributor in and out of Australia sells 90% grain fed meat compared to 10% grass. The choice for Anthony Puharich is one of quality and consistent meat rather than the war between grass and grain. “And this remains grass fed beef’s major obstacle,” says Peter Clay from Taralga Spring Beef, one of MUMU Grill’s biggest suppliers. “Consistency is hard to control when dealing with mother nature.” Our restaurateurs and chefs it seems may need to take the first steps forward on the issue as Poulter concludes. “When dining in restaurants you outsource your nutrition and health.” For Macindoe, of MUMU, whose philosophy is, “think locally, think the best”, the decision was easy. However a lack of awareness and information for those who cook at home means grass fed beef only serves a very specific and small niche market. Whether pro-grass or grain the day at MUMU was not only enjoyable for all but was able to give a good indication as to the likely direction of the beef market in the very near future. Grass fed beef’s reputation is undoubtedly slowly growing in stature and if Poulter is right and grass fed is the way nature intended it to be, then look for the debate to continue. And if grass and fed beef are rivals? Well then, let the battle begin. FCI F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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MASSIMO MELE HUGO’S MANLY WHARF
lIVInG huGe aT huGo’s It’s busy here at Hugo’s and you have to be prepared. As soon as 6pm comes around I say it’s time to dance!
Hugo’s Manly Wharf east esplanade, Manly, Sydney + 61 2 8116 8555 36
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Born? Hobart, Tasmania, then went back to Italy when I was only
nine months old. What keeps you going? I have my hunger back. Advice to future young chefs? Don’t trust anyone, trust your own instinct and always keep your knife sharp. Favourite kitchen tool? At Hugo’s it’s the tomato slicer and at home I love my pasta maker. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Give them help. If you get free demonstration knives or chef uniforms pass them on to the apprentices. They can’t afford all that stuff – I tell you they appreciate things like that. the crowd? All types from Manly over to the eastern suburbs, we get the celebrities and a vast mix of smart, trendy and quite often big families – on Sundays it’s all about the kids swimming at the beach. Most useful cookbook? Any of Stephanie Alexander’s cookbooks – they are just so consistent. Early influences? Cooking with my nonna and mamma eating fresh [still warm] buffalo mozzarella with crusty bread when I lived in Italy. Can you impart your own creativity with the food here? Yes, I have introduced the Tuna Angel Hair pasta which sells at Manly Wharf, but pizzas will always do better at Kings Cross. Liandro is the head chef at our other restaurant. On David and Peter Evans? Dave and I are working closely in running the operations in Manly. Peter looks more after the public relations, marketing and supporting the company overall. Your discovery of the year? Discovering new fish varieties for the first time in my life such as varieties like; bass groper, at the markets last week I was eating live sea urchin, at 6am - just awesome. How can regional foods give a menu wow factor? The push right now is on regional seafood; our flounder is coming out of Batemans Bay, we can’t mention every place where the produce is from because the menu isn’t that long but we like our staff to inform the diners of origin. Favourite sport? Soccer. Are you treating your purveyors any different than a year ago? I’m getting my purveyors to come here to dinner try out their produce: it’s working. Recently it’s been Christie’s seafood and the Fratelli Fresh guys. I am starting to order in more sustainable ingredients like spanner crab and different salmons, which the food writers and journalists like to hear about. Purveyor tip? Always ask why. Purveyors are making money from you and vice versa. Ones that I enjoy I work with; some need to be pushed. But be gentle with your arrogance. FCI
Craig Macindoe with Jamon Iberico Bellota
Jamon it up The jamon ham adds its own dimension to the new menu, capturing the Spanish flavour in its own right, writes Jarrod Baker.
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Cured meats, cornbread, olives
UMU Grill again played host to a collection of friends, family, journalists and food-goers at the launch of their new Tapas bar, the Jamon Bar. Given Sydney’s growing appetite for Tapas, diners are well accustomed to the ins and outs of the experience, not to mention the typical food on offer. However, through head chef Craig Macindoe’s desire to deliver something different and better MUMU has added yet another weapon to its arsenal. Introducing Spanish jamon ham, an exclusive product that now features on its menu, courtesy of the new Tapas Bar. And if you were in the vicinity on the evening you would have heard the cries of delight as those in attendance sampled the 18 and 15 month old jamon serrano, and the clear favourite jamon iberico, the product of pampered pigs that feast on acorns and drink olive oil. “The flavour is so good you don’t need to serve it with anything else,” says Macindoe as the meat is sliced to serve while attendees watch and sipped on MUMU’s very own sangria, quality house wines and boutique beer. MUMU Grill has clearly captured the Tapas experience and those who enjoyed the lively opening will agree. The new Jamon Bar looks destined to become an attractive stopover for any food lover. And as Macindoe concludes, “I always wanted to have the best of something in the world.” FCI
Mumu Grill 7-/76 Alexander Street Crows Nest, Sydney + 61 2 9460 6877
Craig Macindoe having a cool ale with Javier Degen of The
Spanish Pantry and Michael Van Stom from Van Stom Foods. F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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Steve Manfredi Bells at Killcare Central Coast
Green grass of home My discovery of the year is Italian sugarloaf lettuce and Farina Gialla di Storo which is an old type of cornmeal. Born? Gottolengo, Brescia Province, Italy. Education? Diploma of education (teaching). Experience? Teaching, designing and running Bells at Killcare Boutique Hotel Restaurant and Bar 107 The Scenic Road, Killcare Beach, NSW + 61 2 4360 2411
restaurants, and writing on food and cooking. What keeps you going? My mortgage and two cups of espresso each morning.Advice to future chefs? Read and travel. Favourite kitchen tool? My knife. Advice to chefs thinking about using more regional produce? By all means use regional produce, but make sure it is of high quality. Provide feedback to the producer if it’s not. If it doesn’t improve, don’t use it. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world?
Promise them shiny things like fame, fortune and television. Favourite thing about the Central Coast? Bouddi National Park and our vegetable gardens at Bells. Most useful cookbook? Slow Food’s Dizionario delle Cucine Regionali Italiane. Early influences? My mother, Gualtiero Marchesi and Jenny Ferguson. Career turning point? Falling asleep on the toilet one morning at one of the first restaurants I worked at after a gig the night before. I used to play in a band and decided on the toilet I would cook rather than be a musician. Favourite sport? Football (soccer). On sustainable foods? Don’t use Southern Blue fin tuna any more and very little tuna generally. We use grass-fed beef, grow quite a lot of our own vegetables and stick to sustainable species of seafood. We use organic and local product when it is available and of sufficient high quality. Are you treating your purveyors any different than a year ago? We always treat them well; they are
partners in what we do at Bells. FCI 38
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MARKUS GERLICH AT KING SALMON AUSTRALIA
Salmon sounds nice Building relationships with customers which becomes like visiting your friends each day.
Where is it? Our farms are located in
pristine water of the Marlborough Sounds. We have a factory in Seven Hills, Sydney and distribute nationally. Describe your business? We are food company working in harmony with our environment supplying healthy aquaculture products to Australia and Pacific Rim countries. What’s the story behind the name? King Salmon Australia is a division of the New Zealand King Salmon Company. How did it begin? Check out the website www.kingsalmon.com.au Favourite thing about Sydney? Cultural diversity and array of places to eat. Is running the Australian sector hard work? The phone is on 24/7. What do you stock? Everything salmon related. Are you organic? No but we utilise organic principles in farming with no antibiotics, chemicals or growth hormones. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Coming from the trade myself,
King Salmon Australia Markus + 61 2 9620 6200 www.kingsalmon.com.au
letting them know there is life after cooking then taking their skills to another level. What keeps you going? Family and a passion for what I do. Favourite sport? Water ski racing and V8 supercars. What makes your salmon unique? The taste of Regal King salmon is unique, the higher Omega -3 oil contained in King Salmon sets it apart from all other salmon, the mouth feel is sublime, the presentation and versatility when cooking it is sensational and so easy to prepare. Restaurants you supply? Assiette, Pier, Bird Cow Fish, Balzac, Hugo’s to name a few and growing. What do most chefs like about NZ King Salmon? Higher yield, fantastic presentation and consumers come back for it. Purveyor tip? Try Regal King salmon raw and swap out the soy sauce with a Lemoncello liqueur, divine. FCI
Our New Zealand King Salmon are raised in the pure, spring-fed streams of New Zealand’s South Island before they’re transferred to the pristine waters of the Marlborough Sounds, Regal Marlborough Salmon enjoy a wild, untouched environment renowned for producing premiumquality seafood. Their incredible flavour, oil content and colour are the results of a diet free of the chemicals and antibiotics often used in other salmon farms. Regal Marlborough Salmon allows incredible flexibility for you to create…
We could spend all day talking about the superiority of Regal Marlborough Salmon. In this case however, tasting is believing. For your complimentary sample call Markus Gerlich on 1800 666 527
www.kingsalmon.com.au
I N C ON V ERSA T I ON W I T H
Peter Cannavo Flavours Fruit and Veg
Larder than life I like to challenge myself all the time and sourcing new lines that chefs have never seen. You’re only as good as your last order. Where is it? Tullamarine. Describe your business? It’s a fruit and vegetable providoring business that supplies to chefs in the premium-end restaurant sector. Who you supply to?
The likes of Neil Perry, Greg Maulof, Gabrielle Martin, Pierre Khodja, Joesph Vargetto, Jeremy Sutphin at eateries such as Rockpool, Momos and Mateo’s. What’s the story behind the name? Chefs are into their flavours and when I was working as a chef I was very into the philosophy of a tomato tasting like a tomato and keeping it simple. Like when you’re buying fruit and vegetables as well. You can overspend on produce, which is bad for your budget. How did it begin? I was cooking behind the stove for 10 years and used to go to the markets. I loved the mornings and the hot coffee and helps if you’re an early riser - then just through contacts it grew into a thriving business. Chefs who shop at the markets? I’ve seen a lot of chefs burn themselves out. You can’t do two jobs and if you forget the tarragon – then you can’t work accurately either. You’re not doing things 100 per cent. Favourite thing about Melbourne? The energy and the buildings, I’m a real city person; it’s a great buzz here. Is running Flavours hard work? It’s the coffee that helps me! What do you stock? All the basics and then you have the exotics as well, and where the costs and balances come into the picture. It’s all about your relationship with your growers and the market agents as to how well you buy. You have to put on a hard face and sometimes the markets can be a ruthless place. Price structure is based on your relationships, who you know and who you deal with and being looked after. At the moment my caulies are coming in at $40 for a box of 10 and I’m selling them for $3.30. Most exotic? Young ginger with massive green stalks, a lot of micro herbs out of Bendigo, like your red shiso, black cabbage, micro dandelion and sorrel are really good and cecil potatoes which are similar to kipflers but more waxy and yellow flesh and I’m liking heirloom tomatoes. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Give your chefs lots of education - every extra bit is a huge thing to them. Favourite industry thing? The people you meet. Once you work in fruit and veg you stay in it for all these good reasons. Purveyor tip? Buy quality produce because it’s going to last and removes the headache. FCI 40
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Melbourne purveyor Peter Cannavo outside Spice Market, Melbourne.
Contact Peter Cannavo on
0400 457 600
I N C O N V E R S AT I O N W I T H
MICHAEL VAN STOM AT VAN STOM FOODS
Where There’s smoKe... Everything old is new again! Charcuterie has been around for millennia and it is interesting that people are reconnecting with it. Good charcuterie is expensive but you only have to use a little. Born? Sydney in 61. You started in business? I grew up in Hong Kong and New York, then arrived in Sydney in `82 and started this business in 2003. What was so fun about New York? The hot dog vendors and the delis. Best kitchens worked? Pavilion on the
Park and working with Mark Best at the Macleay Street Bistro in 1994, then a stint at Canteen in Taylor Square when Terry Durack and Jill Dupleix stumbled upon me and wrote a couple of articles about my food. I left working behind the stoves in early `90s to work for Lynne Tietzel at Australia on a Plate. I then managed Pelagio in Darlinghurst for a year and then worked for John Susman on the Buzzfish project. I wanted to do my own thing and with a passion for charcuterie Van Stom Foods was a natural progression for me. Favourite cheap eat? The fish burgers at Out of the Blue in Clovelly. What keeps you going? My cheeky little sons Luka and Remy. Advice to future fine food purveyors? Sell what you have a passion for. Your company motto? Keep the customers happy with quality product and reliable service. Favourite thing about Sydney? The buzz. Most useful piece of machinery? My refrigerated van and my iPhone! A snapshot of Van Stom Foods? My focus is on supplying the chefs and kitchens of Sydney with amazing charcuterie. I have a very close relationship with Pino Tomini-Foresti, which is important as he is the finest charcuterer in Australia. It enables me to procure products at their peak and to organise any special requests that a customer may have. I also sell sausages, smoked fish, dips, olives and antipasti that I source from the producers that have passion and integrity. After 24 years in kitchens I have a good insight into what chefs require from a supplier. I personally hated suppliers, who wore suits who came at the wrong time, with the wrong product and a bad attitude! Career you would have pursued if you had not become a fine food purveyor? Oceanographer, Jacques Cousteau was a hero of mine.On Australian cuisine – it has changed since you first started selling? When I started in kitchens, the only fresh herbs we could buy were curly parsley and chives. Everything else was dry, can you believe? When I started work at Pavilion I was amazed to see that they grew their own herbs; they had to. The produce we have now is amazing because people are demanding it. Favourite sport? I sail historic 18-foot skiffs on Saturdays. Ingredient obsession? Seriously, I love great sausages, especially barbecued on a crusty roll with mustard. Countries travelled to this year and what you learnt? I went to Bali with the family and I realised how lucky we are here to not have to import all of our great produce.Purveyor tip? Every kitchen should have a good slicer with decent horsepower, and a large diameter blade. Don’t buy the entry level machines; you have to spend at least $1500 to get a good one. Make sure you sharpen it every day as you do your knives; it makes slicing prosciutto a pleasure not a chore! FCI 42
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Michael van Stom sailing on an historic 18ft skiff on Sydney Harbour
BEST OF
We stock Pino’s Dolce Vita - The finest Italian butcher in Australia utilising the wonderful Sweet Bangalow Pork and moist chewy and spicy and aromatic salamis. Hunter Valley Olives - Beautiful Australian grown Kalamata, Manzanillo, California queen green, Verdale and Sevillano olives. Wonderful blended to order EVOO! Pilpel Fine Foods - The most amazing Middle Eastern dips you’ve ever tasted. Gluten, egg and dairy free. B&B Products - A comprehensive range of export quality European air dried meats. Nifty Foods - A huge range of antipasto, made with care and skill. “Some chefs like to direct, create specialty items, and through Michael Van Stom he understands this. He’s like part of the family. Our products are connected with the environment and are natural foods and we’re at this stage where we would like to pass on this knowledge to our best chefs.” Pino Tomini, La Dolce Vita Fine Foods
Rudi’s Butchery - German and Austrian charcuterie produced with Cooralie free range pork. Ya Ya’s Treats - Beautiful stuffed and marinated olives, dolmades, Turrama, Tzatziki and pies. Lucas Meats - Great old fashioned Aussie butcher producing excellent hams, bacon and smoked poultry. Sunshine Meats - An incredible Portuguese butcher creating chourico, morcilla, hams, bacon and smoked poultry.
Michael Van Stom on 0412 203 313 Email vanstomfoods@bigpond.com PO Box 590 Woollahra NSW 1350
R & S Danube - An excellent range of continental small goods and sausages. Petuna Smokehouse - Carefully cured and cold smoked Tasmanian Salmon and Ocean Trout.
I n C on V e r s aT I on W I T h
roBerT TonInI of PasTa ClassICa, melBourne
PasTa unTanGled
ContactPasta Classica 0407 335 531
An executive chef that cooks and serves our product in his or her venue or restaurant will discuss our products with other industry professionals. How long have you been in business?
Suited to special occasions particularly for soft filled styles such as ravioli, agnolotti and cappeletti.
Pasta Classica 352 Smith Street Collingwood Contact: Daniel or Robert Tonini Phone (03) 9419 2366
16 years. What keeps you going? We are still excited about our product and the diversity that our product offers. There is no repetition with any of our products as we are always developing new taste sensations. Another aspect of our business that keeps us inspired is the daily contact we have with some of the best chefs Melbourne has to offer and the ability to work in conjunction with them to produce superior products. Pasta business tips? Be prepared for a lot of hard work and then some more hard work. Also be prepared to be hands on with every aspect of your business. Like anything, you will never stop learning. You also need to be open minded and able to adapt your product to suit the ingredients your clientele is requesting. Being able to understand the needs and wants of the consumer is imperative to success as is knowledge and respect for the basics of traditional cookery. Do you conduct kitchen tours with chefs? We would not say no, but prefer to meet with the chefs individually at their restaurants so we can cook with them and discuss how to tailor our product to each individual chef's needs. We prefer the ‘hands on’ approach as this ensures the product we create in conjunction with each chef is personalised for the requirements of the patrons. Is selling pasta easy? Pasta Classica’s products speak for themselves and the majority of our marketing and sales
is based mainly on word of mouth Also after being in the industry for 16 years we have a solid and loyal client base. Favourite kitchen tool? Our hands! Two-thirds of all the products we sell to the industry are hand-made. All our ingredients and fillings are tailor made for each chef we supply. Anything else? Our favourite piece of equipment would have to be our 35-yearold pasta sheeter. For the past 16 years it has helped Pasta Classica to become who we are today. On Melbourne cuisine scene? Over the past 10 to 15 years there have been many changes in the food industry in Melbourne and Australia. The majority of these changes have been for the better. Quality of produce and flavour has improved in recent years and this has aided in the education and sophistication of the palates of Melbournians which in turn has allowed for the ‘wow’ factor of superior products and produce to make it on to the plates of consumers. Favourite thing about Melbourne? We love that you can walk out your front door and international cuisine is readily available within a five to 10 minute walk or drive. The diversity of the food offered in and around Melbourne is never ending. Favourite cookbook? The food of Italy - A Journey for Food Lovers by Sophie Braimbridge and Jo Glynn. Favourite cheap eat? Ling Ling in Chinatown in Little Bourke Street, Melbourne. FCI
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anTonello BoCCa ITalIan Cheese PurVeyor of aus-ITa
forK In The road Few people have a greater passion for quality or more experience when it comes to understanding Italian food and its many regional stories and secrets. Born? Abruzzo, Italy. Describe the business? We are purveyors of the best
fresh products from Italy. We supply over 200 Italian cheeses, a range of olive oils, Parma and San Daniele proscuitto’s. We are highly specialised in the fine art of choosing and delivering fresh award-winning products and with the help of our chefs and distributor networks; we can cover the entire Australian territory. How long have you been in business and how did you start out? We started eight years ago. From
humble beginnings, our business has grown to become the premium boutique importer of Italian food into some of Sydney’s highend dining establishments. Where is it? In Banksmeadow, a strategic position in the vicinity of the Sydney international airport, with its main office and warehouse complete with cool room to maintain our products at their ideal freshness. Favourite cheap eat? Tuna dip and sourdough loaf from Potts Point Liquor and Deli or
eating at the Kings Cross fresh markets on the weekends. What keeps you going? Cappuccino and croissant with cheese and prosciutto. Favourite thing about Sydney? When I wake up, the view of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. A snapshot of AusIta for the chefs? We specialize mainly in imported Italian cheeses including fresh ones that have a low shelf life like the Latteria Fiore brand that is made here in Australia. We also do olives, olive oils and fruit jellies. How fresh are your cheeses? Our bocconcinis, ciliegines, mascarpones, stracchinos and sfogliatas have a fourweek shelf life, our smoked and normal mozzarellas have an eight-week shelf life and our Persian style buffalo, marinated buffalo and buffalo labnehs have 26 weeks. We also do gorgonzolas, yoghurts, Italian bries, ricottas and pecorinos. Favourite sport? Tennis, archery and speedboat piloting. Career turning point? Getting divorced eight years ago and forming this
business – my life journey. Ingredient obsession? Extra virgin olive oils, have to be Australian. Do you have anything new or interesting for chefs? A mixed mezela curado three-milk cheese made from sheep, goat and cow and a strawberry sangiovese grape jelly. Countries travelled and what you’ve leant? Every year we travel many miles across Italy dealing directly with local growers and producers to source the most authentic and freshest foods and ingredients to bring back to the chefs in Australia. FCI
soMe oF our CLieNTeLe iNCLudes: ivY uCeLLo THe ivY iCeBerGs PeNdoLiNo PiLu AT FresHWATer BuoN riCordo LuCio’s AriA HuGo’s FrATeLLi FresH viNi MANTA MiLsoN’s A TAvoLA LA TrATToriA BoNdi MeZZALuNA
Italian Style Cheese Australian Made Contact: Antonello Brocca 0433 826 698 Australia-wide
WINECOMPANION
I N C ON V ERSAT I ON W I T H S a m C o v e r d a l e Even Keel Wines, Mornington Peninsula
Keeping an Even Keel It’s a stunning property here and a great place to make wine, live and only six minutes to some great surf breaks. Born? Sydney in 1977. Education? Bachelor of Business Management (University of
QLD) and Bachelor Applied Science/Wine Science, Charles Sturt University, Wagga Wagga. Experience? I have been involved in the wine industry for 10 years with my first ever vintage with Tyrrell’s in 1998. Since then I have done more vintages in the Hunter Valley, Yarra Valley, Wagga Wagga, Canberra, Clare Valley and overseas in en Roussillon France. In that time I had a fairly serious technical grounding under several winemakers with the Hardy Wine Company in various Australian wine regions. This experience was rounded off nicely when I took a winemaker position in France over a couple of years. How did you come up with the name Even Keel? Believe it or not, it all stemmed from a lecture from the Old Man, and was based around when I told him I was resigning from a well paid secure job with a big wine company to start my own label. He has always been quite conservative and started to get into me, telling me to keep an even keel among others things. Well that was that, and here I am with my own wine company called Even Keel, which incidentally is based on balance to life rather than any nautical connotations. What keeps you going? My fiancee’s hand in my back [I’m joking!]. Advice to future winemakers? Once you have a technical grounding in winemaking, spend as much time in the vineyard as possible. This is a where the real differences are made. Your discovery of the year? Finding a great piece of land in Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula to plant a vineyard with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Your image of your wines to the world? Balanced in elegance and character. Career you would have pursued if you didn’t become a winemaker? I don’t know, there was no plan B. Career turning point? Working as a winemaker in France. Favourite sport? Rugby and surfing. FCI 46
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WHERE TO DRINK Bistro Guillaume Melbourne Wine Room The Graham Hotel Three One Two Cloud Wines Flying fish Aria Ultimo Cellars Annandale Cellars Bilsons Guillaume at Bennelong Vinos Liquorice Anise wine bar Ebb Restaurant Cru Bar Cellars Brisbane
I n C on V e r s aT I on W I T h
PhIl auTon meTroPolITan fIlTer and KITChen serVICes
dIrTy seCreTs Food writers could be going into kitchens as part of the reviewing process with restaurants; back in 1990 I walked into a kitchen where a chef was washing his Dunlop Volleys in his boiling wok, yikes! Location? Parramatta which is really central Sydney. You don’t just change filters? We
go anywhere that has a range-hood in both commercial and domestic kitchens, we clean and service range hood filters, exhaust ventilation systems and air conditioning filters. How and when it begun? We started in 1984 and this year it’s our 25th year in business. My wife Sandra and I have been owners since 1990 we have grown from five to 26 staff. What keeps you going? I enjoy seeing kitchen hands and chefs en up with their own restaurant’s. What makes MFKS so unique? We pride ourselves on providing a good service and being reliable and if they need a good electrician or to get their grease trap emptied we do our best to give them a good contact. Favourite work tool? Memory. Do you need to be HACCP accredited?
No, but to be HACCP accredited does give credibility. the health of a business? Having been in the industry you get to know whether a restaurant will thrive or die based on location, the owner or chef’s personality and their experience. Cleanliness of kitchens? Quite often friends call me and want me to recommend a restaurant that has good food but also that it is clean. Preventative maintenance tip? Have a routine for cleaning daily, weekly and monthly but most importantly clean as you go. What are local councils doing to educate with cleaning? Councils are starting to realise they
have to run education programs which are hands on and not just handing out literature, but there is still a long way to go and it all comes down to council resources. getting a quotation? Where are your locations, style of food and hours, so we 48
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RESTAURANTS SERVICED SEAN’S PANAROMA BIRD COW fISH SAILOR’S THAI PIZZA BIRRA
can come and see you? Usually within two days we can give an accurate quote. A restaurant could have four filters like at Lucio’s and a five star Hotel could have up to 60 filters. Preventative maintenance tip? Filter exchange range hoods from weekly to eight weekly. Exterior range hoods range from weekly to three monthly. Ventilation cleaning is from 3 monthly to 12 monthly. Favourite sport? Football, I support Middlesborough. Your business philosophy? A reliable good service and always looking to see what else we can offer our customers. We want to be around in another 25 years. Do you network with other industries? Yes, with other service providers statewide, Fine Food trade shows and just recently the Australian Hospitality Warewashing Association meeting at Sydney Hilton. total of filters did you cleaned last year? About 480,000. FCI
PONy AND STEEL PILU AT fRESHWATER PIER CBD LONGRAIN BOATHOUSE Of GLEBE JONAH’S TEMASEk BANANA BLOSSOM LUCIO’S SEAN’S PANORAMA ICEBERGS MARqUE BILLS BIRD COW fISH BILLy kWONG
PERThCUISINE Ian Parmenter – FCI’s Western Australian Correspondent
G’DAy USA – A fEAST Of fLAVOURS Take a dozen chefs; add a couple of tonnes of Australian meat, fish and seafood, and a few pallets of wine and beer. Whisk them off to the US and you have the recipe for the great success that was G’Day USA. Held in January in Los Angeles, San Francisco and New york, G’Day uSA is an annual promotion of what Australia does best
Love Catering LA team working with our ‘G’DAY USA team’
Stuart Walsh and Don Hancey enjoying some Napa Valley reds.
in tourism, business and investment, minerals and energy, conservation, the arts, and gastronomy. Among Australian chefs who prepared foods for a number of events in January as part of G’Day uSA were Luke Mangan and Peter evans (Sydney), Stuart Walsh (Canberra), Don Hancey (Perth) and Ian Parmenter (Margaret river) - who’s not really a
Don Hancey with Barramundi from Lee Fish USA, in the kitchens of Love Catering LA
Parms and Rachel Griffith
chef. events included black tie dinners to honour eric Bana, rachel Griffiths and rod Laver, another to recognise Baz Luhrmann, and a fund-raising dinner prepared by Peter evans. Others gobbling up Aussie goodies were John Mcenroe, Olivia Newton-John, Baz Luhrmann, rupert Murdoch, Hugh Jackman, Nicole kidman, Jimmy Barnes, the Adelaide Symphony Orchestra, as well as a host of potential customers for Australian
John McEnroe with Stuart Walsh
‘Hancey Pants’ and Petuna Fresh Trout
wares, company CeOs and media from Australia and the uS. Favourite foods from Oz included Petuna ocean trout, Greg Norman beef, WA lamb, Australis barramundi, king Island cheeses, Bhuja snacks, Herbie’s spices, olive oils, and Tim Tams (11,000 of them went down a treat!). Jacobs Creek and Penfolds supplied wines, as did regions of Victoria and
Stuart Walsh with Petuna Ocean Trout in New York
G’DAY USA Team at the Adelaide
Symphony Orchestra gig at UCLA.
Tasmania, while Coopers was the principal brewer. In addition to the main dinners, some 20,000 servings of food were served up at functions which included a CeOs golf day, a movie afterparty for Ausfilm, and an indigenous tourism promotion at the recently constructed New york Times building in Manhattan. The next G’Day will take place in January 2010. Details at www.australia-week.com 50
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Luke did both the LA and the NY Black tie Gala dinners
Love Catering LA team working with our ‘G’DAY USA team’ Don Hancey in blue t shirt, Karen Lewis in foreground
INDUSTRYCOLUMN By Brian Sherman AM and Ondine Sherman Co-founders and directors of Voiceless
Dear Readers, For the most part, the days of animals roaming in lush green pastures overlooked by bucolic farmhouses, are gone. Old MacDonald’s farm has been consigned to the dustbin of history. Industrialised factory farms churn out meat with frightening speed, efficiency and almost complete lack of compassion for the physical, social and emotional needs of animals. We founded Voiceless in 2004 because we share the heart-felt belief of a growing number of Australians that the factory farming of animals is indefensible. We have visited several factory farms and witnessed the suffering of pigs, battery hens and, most recently, meat chickens. each year, hundreds of millions of meat chickens spend their entire lives crowded in huge sheds, deprived of any meaningful quality of life. Permanently confined; denied sun, grass and fresh air; some unable to support their unnaturally over-grown bodies. People are becoming increasingly concerned about where their food comes from. They want to be informed about the animal welfare and other impacts of their food choices. unfortunately, advertising may obfuscate the true origins of a product. Terms such as ‘cage-free’, ‘corn-fed’, ‘barn-raised’ and ‘100% natural’ are nothing but feel-good marketing terms that have no real meaning for the welfare of meat chickens. Chefs, restaurateurs and other members of the food industry are in prime position to demand positive change for animals suffering in factory farms. We encourage you to be educated about the chicken you buy, and to lend your voice to this cause. ‘From Nest to Nugget: An exposé of Australia’s chicken factories’ is available as a free download from www.voiceless.org.au or in hard copy by contacting Voiceless on (02) 9357 0723.
Brian Sherman AM and Ondine Sherman, Co-founders and directors of Voiceless
Warewashing FORUM A H W A Austra l
A Message from the outgoing President of AHWA ation
ia n H
Dear Industry members and readers
T
he last few months have been a productive and busy time for the Australian Hospitality Ware-washing Association (AHWA). The association was formed to address concerns of suppliers, end users and service providers raised at the Warewashing Forum at the Sebel Pier One, Sydney created by Mel Nathan of Food Companion International in November 2006. In those meetings and thereafter we have agreed on the mission and objectives. We registered our association as a non profit entity. Our website is registered and contributions have been raised. A website designer was selected and the necessary contacts with government educational authorities were made. We have formed working relationships with other private and government organisations and authorities. We have researched how to achieve our goals and then defined our goals with plans. We have started working on them. Some key players have committed to the Association and have worked on or are working on some major initiatives. In line with our mission statement the association has moved forward to address the training shortfalls in the industry and environmental concerns as well as setting benchmarks in procedures of warewashing. In 2009 it will be time to introduce the Association to the end user. With the support of the end users, manufacturers, suppliers and service providers - we can revamp the goals of the association and see how much more can be achieved. It is about continuous improvement. The association cannot rest on its laurels. As each goal is realised let us set new markers. In 2009 we look forward to working together with other associations to gain recognition for this neglected segment of the industry. We will further develop working relationships with government
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bodies that are working towards the same environmental goals. A long term initiate is to create awards (in line with ministerial blessing) on environmental achievements by end users. Our current projection dishwasher rating (power and water) continues. An agreed agenda of ratings criteria, essential to manufacturers being on a level playing field, has been established. This criteria is probably a world first and it is not too complicated, it should meet both the end users’ needs as well as satisfying the manufacturers concerns. As more and more warewashing machine manufacturers supplying Australia come on board, this will definitely encourage environmental sustainability. Within months we should have a ratings model that will go before the relevant bodies. A workgroup has been established and will meet outside of association general meetings. This is “onestep for the association and one huge step for the environment”. As I move on to greener pastures I sincerely hope the momentum can be maintained and our caretaker president; Wayne Abrahams, who is an experienced end-user currently with North Ryde RSL Club will no doubt write the next chapter in our successes. I ask that you fully support him. From afar I will still be working hard on the projects that I have committed to. These include the construction phase of the website, the training module for national accreditation, best practices (both procedural and environmental friendlier) and eventually a complete cleaning manual which can be purchased via the website. Thank you all.
AHWA attendees • Andrew Chyra(Goldstein/Eswood) • Barbara White (NORRIS) • Brad MacDougal (True Blue Chemicals) • Brett Duffy (Comcater/Winterhalter) • Brett Lake (Sydney Hilton) Hon. President • Bruce Blunden (Johnson Diversey) • Cathy Goodwin (Bevwizz Australia) • Charlie Fualalo (Star City) • Chris Coorie (Cuno Pacific) • Colin Goldsmith, AUSTMONT • Darren Herron (Electrolux) • Dean Franklin (Benchmark Stainless Steel) • Dean Holmes, CHEMPOWER • Gabriella Sarnelli (Cuno Pacific) • Garth Ingram (J L Lenard/Zanussi) • Gary Spradbrow (True Blue Chemicals) • Geoff Hunter (HOBART) • Geoff Moroney (Dema Australia) • Glenn Cassidy (Cleantec) • Greg Cairns (Norris) • Helen Scott (Ethnic Community Services) • Kamal Kamalanison (ECOLAB) • Kevin Starr (Star City) • Lorry Hickey (Meiko Australia Pacific) • Malcolm Fackender (Cuno Pacific) • Mel Nathan (Food Companion International) • Peter Macaluso (CKC Consultants) • Rod Dixon (Culligan Water Filter Systems) • Ryan Cunningham (Stoddart/Electrolux) • Sam Casimir (Sydney Water) • Scott Evans (ECOLAB) • Sumeet Bagga (Ecolab) • Terry Barfield (Johnson Diversey)
Brett Lake
• Tim Walker (Salgo)
AHWA Inc.
• Wayne Abrahams (North Ryde RSL)
WWFORUM
Who is AHWA?
AHWA Mission Statement The Australian Hospitality Ware-washing Association is devoted to the improvement of standards in Ware-washing within the Hospitality market in Australia The Association will formalize best practices for the ware washing industry in Australia. The Association will provide the tools to assist with training and endeavor to partner with government educational authorities to have this training recognised. The Association will aim to enhance the working relationships between suppliers and end users.
Recently formed is the Australian Hospitality Ware-washing Association of Australia - AHWA. It started from an industry forum in Sydney in 2006. We are now meeting every 3 months to achieve the goals and mission of the Association. The Association has been formed in conjunction with manufacturers, suppliers and end-users. End-users are the people that use the machines, systems and chemicals. Suppliers include chemical providers, dishwashing machine suppliers and manufacturers and consultants. AHWA will achieve the following • Establish skill-set for best practice • Have training accredited in conjunction with Government Educational bodies. • Improve the relationship between the end user and supplier • Create a website with a forum, tools for training, tools for troubleshooting your machine, tools to select systems and machines for your operation We invite you to become involved in the Association. Please register your interest by visiting www.ahwa.org.au
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IN CONVERSATION WITH
sYDNeY WAteR
HOSPItALItY StAFF tRAININg DVD
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udits by Sydney Water have shown that about 30% of the water hotels and clubs use is lost through leaks. Keeping leaks under control is the cheapest and easiest way to be water wise.
The hospitality staff training DVD available to Sydney Water business customers encourages staff in the hospitality industry to report leaks. It provides a 20 minute guide to water efficiency and details of free and subsidised Sydney Water programs to improve your water efficiency. To know more, email EDCbusiness@sydneywater.com.au or visit www.sydneywater.com.au/SavingWater/InYourBusiness.
SMARt RINSE PROgRAM
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ydney Water customers can benefit from the Smart Rinse Program. It is a free retrofit service that replaces inefficient pre-rinse spray valves with water efficient Smart Rinse valves in commercial kitchens.
Call 1800 622 695 between 8.30 am to 5 pm, Monday to Friday for more information or to book a fitting. For a downloadable brochure go to: http://www.sydneywater.com.au/SavingWater/ InYourBusiness/AboutEDC/SmartRinse.cfm
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IN CONVERSATION WITH
sAM cAsIMIR – sYDNeY WAteR
DON’T RACK YOUR BRAIN: ASK FOR HELP FCI interviews Sam Casimir, water efficiency specialist, Every Drop Counts Business Program at Sydney Water. In an ideal world what would you suggest is one major issue most likely to improve ware washing? Formal efficiency standards with training and a rating scheme across the industry would improve the water and energy efficiency of the ware washing industry.
Samuel Casimir of the Sydney Water - Every Drop Counts Business Program.
Equipment operating and maintenance requirements are generally confusing. The lack of clear efficiency standards prevents accurate assessment of water and energy performance and makes it difficult to measure improvement. This is complicated by inconsistency between operators. What programs run by Sydney Water are suited to customers in the ware washing industry? Sydney Water’s Every Drop Counts (EDC) Business Program has a number of programs suited to the different customers in ware washing: Smart Rinse: A free replacement of pre rinse spray valves with a water efficient Smart Rinse valve to eligible customers. Smart Rinse valves require less water, using water pressure not water volume to pre-rinse dishes. Hospitality training DVD: A free 20-minute staff training DVD for our hospitality customers to raise their staff awareness about water efficiency and encourage staff to report leaks. High water using (80kL/day and over) customers are eligible to join the business program. A dedicated water efficiency specialist is available to assist these businesses improve their water management and efficiency. To what extent does the ‘human factor’ impact upon performance of the dishwasher? The dishwasher’s performance can be improved by correct operation and an understanding of the appropriate chemicals / detergents to use. It is important for the operator to understand the correct operating procedure and what impacts their actions will have. Where possible, dishwashers should be filled to capacity before being used to ensure maximum water efficiency. What factors dictate when it is time to upgrade ware washing units? New water-efficient dishwashers use much less water and energy than some of the older models on the market. When your old ware washer reaches the end of its operational life, replace it with a new water and energy efficient model. Think about the life cycle costs, and include energy and water costs in your business case to buy a new efficient model. Sydney Water is completing a study to accurately quantify the potential water,
energy and chemical savings associated with upgrading to a new efficient washer. If you have attended an AHWA meeting, what was your experience and what did you learn? Attendance at an AHWA meeting highlighted the enthusiasm and commitment that exists in the ware washing industry. It helped me realise that a lot of work is already being done by all parts of the industry to become more water and energy efficient. The signs are promising but continued effort is required to ensure that AHWA goals are realised. How is sustainability affecting the R&D side of your business, and what are you doing to resolve it? Sydney Water recognises the importance of sustainability in business environmentally, socially and economically. The EDC Business Program is actively investigating new ideas and technologies that could be beneficial to small, medium and large water using businesses. We are always interested in working with the business community to help our customers achieve sustainable outcomes, especially in terms of improved water efficiency. What would be the ideal role for AWHA? The EDC Business Program would like to work with AHWA to achieve our common goal to maximise water efficiency. EDC BP can provide resources and expertise as well as co-ordinating feasibility studies to help develop new management techniques and efficient products in the ware washing field. The AHWA communicates water efficiency opportunities to its members in the industry, Sydney Water would like to see this continue and grow into the future.
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IN CONVERSATION WITH
MeIko
MAKING WAVES Unlike a lot of our opposition, Meiko specialises only in ware washing hardware. All our factory efforts are based on how we make the machines more cost efficient, easier to service and friendlier for the environment. Our latest models come with inbuilt reverse osmosis water treatment systems. If you could change one thing in the ware washing industry what would that be?
What balances the relationship between the dishwasher, water supply and chemicals?
Selling old style large dishwashers into the Australian market should be barred. Over the last 15 years technology has advanced markedly in this industry and just about every ware washing manufacturer has machines at their disposal which use less water, less energy, less chemicals and are just as reliable as the old style machines. Fifteen years ago no one wanted to buy commercial dishwashers that had electronics because they didn’t want to take the risk of problems, but today they are just as reliable as the old technology and they give you so many extra benefits. If you buy the old style, the technology is dated back to sometimes 40 years ago and you don’t want that. It’s like selling an EJ Holden with plastic bumper bars.
Care and Understanding: I mentioned above the dishwasher is a machine. It is fed with water and uses electricity to heat it up and it has controls to ensure it operates correctly.
The type of customer suited to a Meiko? Our machines are all made in Germany for the Australian market. They are at the forefront of technology and we also have the best warranty in the business. That is three years parts and labour. But we are not cheap. So the customer who is looking for the best machine, the best features and warranty and value for money is suited to Meiko.
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Over the last few years the importance of water filtration has become more important due to lower water levels. As the water levels drop the amount of minerals in it is more concentrated and this leads to higher service costs on the dishwasher. This also impacts on the amount of detergent used. We are finding many more kitchens are installing water treatment systems to the main water inlet to not only protect the dishwasher but their coffee machines, combi ovens, bain maries, icemakers and the list goes on. Good maintenance will help to balance the relationship as it will include water conditioning and chemical checking. Define your preventative maintenance service regime? We offer a variety of maintenance options including; Silver, Gold and Platinum for any locations including, in-flight catering operations where machines can be used up to 22 hours a day. In these cases maintenance is done every week.
Can the performance of the dishwasher be improved by the actions of the operators?
• Silver = 4 visits a year with full checklist and written report.
Yes, but it can also be ruined by the operator. At the end of the day the dishwasher is a machine and therefore only as good as the person using it, cleaning it and maintaining it. I have seen a $100,000 dishwasher replaced after three years due to abuse they have received over that time. I have also seen machines in operation after 20 years and they are a credit to their operators. It always amazes me people can spend $3,000-$300,000 on a dishwasher and not maintain it. If you buy a second hand car for $6000, and get it serviced at regular intervals, why then do we not think to do this for a dishwasher? What is more amazing is in larger establishments such as hotels and hospitals where they are buying full systems worth anywhere from $50,000 to $250,000 and installed but not maintained. Then when these break down from lack of maintenance it costs the catering department a fortune in extra labour and possibly lost clientele due to delays. Operators and management need to remember one very important thing. That is when a customer enters your restaurant and sits down at their table what do they look at? That’s right: the cutlery and the glasses. You can have the best looking décor in your restaurant in the local area or the smartest looking reception area of any hospital around but if the cutlery is dirty or the glass is smudged with grease. It’s your business card and what people remember. So the way we set up the dishwashing area and the machine we select and the way we look after and operate it are all very important factors in your business.
• Platinum = 12 visits a year with full checklist, proactive change out on certain parts, written reports and service parts.
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• Gold = 12 visits a year with full checklist and written report.
How is sustainability and energy saving with chemicals affecting the R&D side of your business, and what are you doing to resolve it? In Germany, our head office is at the foot of the Black Forest and we employ over 950 people in the largest single factory manufacturing flight dishwashers in the world. Our R&D and testing department with over 60 people are devoted solely to this ideal. As a result Meiko holds over 80 Patents for energy, chemical and water saving technology. Where are your products made? Germany. Australia has a healthy range of local manufacturers manufacturing dishwashers and many of them have been around for many years. They are a credit to the industry and they also strive to improve their products through research and development. However the European machines have had a big impact on the Australian market. This is because they have faced many of the same problems as Australia such as rising costs for electricity, water and chemicals.Further the European machines are manufactured in massive factories compared with here and as a result of the huge quantities of machines they become very competitive compared to the local machines.
F O O D C O M PAN I O N I NTE R NATI O NAL
MEI
Professional Dishwashing Technology
Meiko the World’s largest dishwasher manufacturer bringing you the finest quality dishwashers available on the Australian market. Dishwashers to suit every application – BIG or small.
MEIKO Australia Pacific Pty Ltd · 207 Pacific Highway · Building B · Garden Floor St. Leonards, NSW 2065 · P: 1300 562 500 · F: 1300 622 530 · E: info@meiko.com.au
MEIKO_Anz_GK_GG_4c.indd 1
06.07.09 09:14
IN CONVERSATION WITH
NoRRIs
LOCALS FIRING ON ALL JETS We’re 100 per cent Australian made and assembled. Buying a Norris commercial glass or dishwasher and know that your money is recirculated in our economy. If you could change one thing in ware washing?
When is it time to upgrade your ware washing unit?
That there was a consistent Australian standard applicable to all ware washing machines regardless of branding and that every machine sold in Australia was suited to Australian conditions, complied with our hygiene standards and environmental requirements.
When the frequency of the maintenance and the related costs are adding up, for example if a repair estimate of $1000 or more on a glass washer or under bench dishwasher was received it would also be viable to get a quote on a new unit. Another consideration would also be if it is impacting on the overall work flow within the kitchen.
The type of customer suited to a Norris? • A customer who wants to purchase a quality glass or dishwasher • An Australian manufactured and owned product • A customer after peace of mind; with our warranty you won’t have to worry about repairs or parts for up to three years after your purchase. • Customers who want spare parts to be readily available on the shelf from the manufacturer, so there is no need for parts to come from overseas. • Customers who are interested in keeping their hard earned dollars re-circulating in our economy. • Customers who want a machine designed here to meet our conditions & regulations. • A customer who requires fast, efficient and reliable customer service. • At Norris we welcome any inquiry small or large Can the performance of the dishwasher be improved by the actions of the operators? Definitely, the best consistent cleaning results are achieved when staff is trained in the correct use of the ware washing machine. Like any piece of equipment the correct operating procedures reduce maintenance, extend the lifecycle of the machine and keep the work flow in the kitchen running smoothly. Basic training should include: • Pre scraping all items before they enter the dishwasher • Pre rinse all items before they enter the dishwasher • Not over stacking the baskets • Draining and wiping out the inside of the machine at least once a day • Regular checking of the wash and rinse arms to ensure that there are no blockages • Checking temperature gauges to ensure that the machine is operating in the prescribed ranges • Use of a reputable chemical supplier who regularly checks chemical dosage and performance • Use of a chemical de-scaler on a regular basis
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What issues are you being faced with over the installation of electronic dispenses today? Our under bench range of glass and dishwashers are factory fitted with chemical injection ready for connection to the chemical bottles. With our pass through range of dishwashers they are factory fitted with a rinse aid connection point. There is also a provision in the electrical panel for detergent and rinse aid connection. As per the information inside the control panel we recommend that the chemical supplier contact us directly for the best way and position to install the dispenser. Electronic dispensers definitely complement our product as they allow for consistent dosage on every load and reduce OH&S issues relating to use of chemicals. How can we improve contacts and relations with the end user? By listening to our customers and answering their questions correctly. As we could also offer them easily accessible information via the web, on how they can source, operate and maintain their ware washing equipment. On extra training that’s required in ware washing? We are all in the business of supplying clean tableware, and we want to achieve this in a professional manner. This will make a significant improvement to both our standards and those of the industry. What’s new at Norris? At Norris we have been upgrading our machines to enhance their quality and durability. • We have achieved this by extensive sourcing, and testing of new and reliable components. • The benefits of this R&D will be passed on to our customers in the form of machine reliability and longer warranty terms being offered on our fantastic range of glass and dishwashers. • We have also been working on reducing our environmental footprint on our local resources. • All water used in our factory now comes from rainwater tanks and now we are looking at alternative power supply options.
IN CONVERSATION WITH
FAGoR
EXCELLENCE FORGED IN SPAIN Xavier Poirer, Fagor’s
NSW’s State Sales Manager
The most common time for a change is when the operation itself outgrows the washer and requires a larger machine. It also depends on the operator and their understanding of their own responsibility to maintain and train others in the correct use of the washer. We have found that machines can last twice as long in well maintained locations than others.
In an ideal world what would you suggest as being one major issue most likely to improve ware washing?
What is topical or newsworthy when you think about ware washing?
It’s about cleaning your machine with respect at the end of every service. Most people don’t think that it is necessary to properly clean their dishwasher, this is a real mistake. Failure to do this can increase their maintenance costs not to mention the build up of bacteria and odours. Spoons and other objects found in wash pump are not covered by a warranty.
Fagor is very active in changes and improvements to the entire range of washers which come through every year for the purchaser. We are looking at using digital panels instead of electromechanical switches as well as insulated panels.
Who would FAGOR appeal to most?
Great experience, meeting so many people with the same goal of providing better information on a subject that a lot of people do not take much interest was fascinating. The committee members are very committed to provide information so that the customer can increase their knowledge of ware washing and in turn improve their business.
Any operation requiring washing and sanitising of their cutlery, crockery and glassware. With the understanding that a powerful machine is all you need and keep it simple. Fagor offers simple to use units with heavy duty components at a sensible price. There are no expensive “hidden luxuries” and would best suit a smart operator who is diligent in their finances. To what extent does the ‘human factor’ impact upon performance of the dishwasher? Absolutely, keeping the unit interior clean, regular servicing and most importantly, engaging a reliable chemical supplier who has taken the time to adjust their dispensers to the optimal setting for the machine and the customer’s environment. These simple practices will greatly improve performance and also extend the life of the machine. What balances the relationship between the dishwasher, water supply and chemicals? They are all linked together. Every dishwasher operates at an optimum level with the right pressure and flow to give you maximum washing performance and chemicals to remove excess fat, kill bacteria germs and will help the drying process especially on your glassware. What issues are you dealing with when you consider installation of electronic dispensers? This is a constant cause of concern for Fagor. We find that the weakest point of the washer is where the injector is attached and the most common complaint will relate to the incorrect dosing of detergent or rinse aid. We always offer a detergent dispensing system fitted by Fagor as an optional extra and in fact we are considering the supply of all of our range WITH dual purpose dispensers fitted including stainless steel injectors only.
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If you have attended an AHWA meeting, what did you think and what did you get out of it?
Define your preventative maintenance service regime? Awareness and training are at the core of our success in commercial washing worldwide. We offer full training to begin with and ongoing training has greatly increased customer satisfaction. In addition we offer our customers extended warranties and customised service plans depending on their level of ability to service their unit out of warranty. How would you define ‘sustainability’? To what extent does sustainability and energy saving impact upon your R&D? Fagor are very committed to the environment with water saving and recycling initiatives and offer all the accessories to reduce heat loss and recover energy. Fagor also offers a complete range of LPG and Natural gas washers labeled as ECO range, these units are highly energy efficient and environmentally friendly. In addition Fagor offers a range of water treatment systems to reduce streaking and polishing of flatware and glassware to save the operator thousands of dollars in labour costs. Fagor’s research and development team is constantly searching for new ecological technologies for which we have been awarded the certificate ISO-14001. Where are your products sourced? Fagor Dishwashers products are made exclusively in Spain with over 50 years experience and with a total of 10 manufacturing plants and sales offices in over 100 countries make Fagor one of the largest commercial catering equipment suppliers in the world.
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IN CONVERSATION WITH
eLectRoLUX
DRY DISHWASHER FOR ALL THE WET WORK In an ideal world we want correct handling of dishwashing procedures placed at the top of the list, manufacturers of dishwashers are tired of being blamed for breakdowns, and it’s normally the end-user who is at fault. What would you suggest as being one major issue most likely to improve ware washing? A national accredited kitchen training program that works in conjunction with AHWA where the ware washing manufacturers and hygiene solution people would be involved. To enlist the help of water treatment suppliers which also would increase the life of equipment such as; reverse osmosis which would help the quality of your finished product including maintenance and would also lower the cost of labour and cut the number of people who have to stand there and polish glasses. Who would Electrolux appeal to most? Anyone who needs ware washing products. We cater for a wide spectrum from glass washing in a pub or club environment to dishwashing that utilises a low capacity under counter or medium capacity hood type dishwasher. Also automation of a ware washing systems that utilise specialty scrapping, sorting and stacking of items prior to washing in a conveyor, right up to large institutions that have to wash and sanitise quantities in excess of 10,000 plates per hour. We also cater for stadiums, convention centres, hospitals, corrective services and airline catering. Our Electrolux ware washing team gets personally involved in many projects including work that has been referred to us through our dealer network, and onto conceptual layouts that take into account every facet of the end user’s business from the design phase right through to the final installation, and the commissioning and training on the equipment as a package. We also ensure that the complete ware washing system sale is promoted through the advising local distributor to stimulate their local economy. To what extent does the ‘human factor’ impact upon performance of the dishwasher? Absolutely. Scraping and pre-washing the wares is very important in getting a good end result, just by ensuring that you scrape the plates effectively and remove all the major solid particles from the wares prior to loading the dish racks will ensure that your dishwasher does not turn into a recirculating rubbish bin of water, detergent and food scrap that effectively reduces the quality of the wash up. Plates, bowls, cups, glasses and cutlery may have to be washed in a specific basket or rack, so you need to know. There is a multitude of racks ranging from, side plates to mains 62
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plates up to 270mm, which should be washed in a dish rack that allows them to sit apart and at an angle of 70 degrees, this allows the lower wash arms to agitate the backs of these items effectively giving them a ‘one pass finish’ and in turn the upper wash arm can agitate the face of the plate effectively giving them a one pass finish. Too many times I’ve seen people put soup bowls into a plate rack, this stands the bowl upright at 90 degrees and doesn’t allow the upper and lower arms to perform their operation correctly, resulting in the inside surface of the bowl being dirty and requiring a second wash or ultimately resulting in the person washing having to hand wash the bowl. I could go on for pages on this subject, but the above advises you on a couple of treatments that can improve your wash results and ultimately your dishwasher’s performance. Should your readers require any further professional advice on improving their equipment and or results, they can contact me on dherron@stoddart.com.au. Do you have anything topical or newsworthy when you think about ware washing? Electrolux and its Global Design Lab put a challenge out to nine universities and technical colleges globally. One Australian university came away with an honour, who created the Rockpool Waterless Dishwasher - a revolutionary dishwasher created by three FBE Industrial Design students, Douglas Nash, Oystein Lie and Ross Nicholls, won a worldwide design competition in New York, November 2004. The Rockpool has beaten designs from eight other institutions to win the Electrolux Global Design Lab Competition in the final judging in New York. The UNSW team designed the Rockpool to use carbon dioxide instead of water to wash the dishes. The appearance and mode of operation is just as revolutionary. Participating students came from design institutions in Australia, Brazil, China, Czech Republic, Portugal, Slovakia, Sweden, United Kingdom and the United States. Rockpool is a radical shift in both technology and design philosophy from the current box or drawer system dishwashers, in that it is not only free from dependence on water but also it is liberated from the under bench cupboard. It makes a calculated grab for the user’s hearts and minds, being a familiar yet wondrous presence that establishes a visceral connection with the user in both form and function. Readers can learn more at http://www. fbe.unsw.edu.au/exhibits/binddes/rockpool/default.asp
IN CONVERSATION WITH
ecoLAB
PERFECTION WEARS WELL Ware washing concerns are just the same in Australia as they are in Europe; food safety, labour cost and operational sustainability are all under scrutiny. The AHWA meetings provide delegates and guests the opportunity to interact directly between equipment, chemical and food providers and the end user. If you could change one thing in the ware washing industry what would that be?
will create a dramatic difference in operational costs, mostly dependent on the individual operator skill set.
We are all focused on customer satisfaction (the best possible results at the lowest possible cost), as a cleaning and sanitation solutions provider, as stewards or as chefs. This satisfaction comes from a perception of quality linked to the cost of the product, room or meal. Why should ware washing differ? Therefore why would the importance of the staff involved in delivering clean ware be considered with any less importance within a kitchen team? Understanding the limitations of all areas; equipment, procedures and hygiene solutions will invariably generate better results through more effective staff training systems to support the ware-washing processes.
If you have attended an AHWA meeting, what was your experience and what did you learn?
Can the performance of the dishwasher be improved by the actions of the operators? Yes, a dishwasher is basically a recirculating spray wash machine. The human element is definitively the key to achieve optimal performance. Any actions that hinder the performance of the machine will directly influence results. To get a clean result the machine is an important contributor; pumps, heating, wash and rinse arms must run properly. But machines cannot achieve the desired result in the absence of a proficient operator. Daily critical tasks must comprise routine inspection of basic equipment functionality wholly supported by adequate procedural understanding. Also, given the understandable emphasis on environmental considerations the importance of ware washing efficiency is increasing in focus as a definitive KPI - proper scrapping, racking, sorting, correct program selection
All parties have a similar objective; that is to promote food safety and deliver clean dishes in compliance with current standards and guidelines. Knowing that ware-washing is only a part of kitchen operation whatever is scoped (labour cost, product usage or environmental impact). A wider scope would deliver a greater result to the end user and avoid redundancy in analysis performed and advice rendered. How is sustainability and energy saving with chemicals affecting the R&D side of your business, and what are you doing to resolve it? As a global market leader, Ecolab focuses its efforts on creating a cleaner, healthier and safer world for all of us and for future generations. Practically speaking this means our R&D teams place considerable emphasis on delivering innovative technologies to ensure our solutions meet the expectations of not only our customers but contribute to our wider social responsibility. Our vision goes far beyond that of simple biodegradability for product formulas, taking in a holistic vision of water, energy, waste disposal and the carbon footprint of our internal and external impacts. We all have a vital role to play; from Ecolab to customer management, cascading through an organisation to all staff involved - that is why training and education are key elements of Ecolab’s service.
IN CONVERSATION WITH
esWooD
GOOD, CLEAN AND HOME-GROWN We are Australian made and fortunate to have our manufacturing based in Sydney. We can run factory floor tours with TAFE and culinary students and importantly our dealers and our customers. In an ideal world what would you suggest as being one major issue most likely to improve ware washing? To set a new industry profile enforceable and practised by all segments of the industry irrespective of size, type of restaurant, café or any food handling establishment. Who would ESWOOD appeal to most? We have been manufacturing commercial glass washers, dishwashers, conveyor dishwashers, cage washers, bin washers, CSSD washers, and pot washers in Australia for over 75 years, I don’t think there is an industry that Eswood couldn’t supply ware washing equipment to. What balances the relationship between the dishwasher, water supply and chemicals? You can say this is a three way marriage of convenience – of your dishwasher, your water and then your chemicals. And if you can’t get a good result in washing without this partnership, then the result you are looking for are clean, sanitised dishes at minimum cost per item washed. The machine needs adequate water, at the right temperature, together with the dose of quality chemicals to produce that result – it is a balance. In the first instance the above question goes hand in hand. • The selling agent, consultant or sales person must ensure that the dishwasher is the correct size for the job it is designed for. • Secondly if the water supply (temperature, pressure, volume) is under specification, performance of your dishwasher will drop. • Your dishwasher in conjunction with water provides a
scrubbing action – chemicals provide a reaction between food (protein) and plate – making it easier for the scrubbing action to remove soil from plate. What factors dictate when it is time to upgrade your ware washing unit? What kind of time scale comes to mind? What a good question. Look after your dishwasher and you will extend its working life and save money. There are many kitchens especially in country areas that have Eswood dishwashers operating that are 25 plus years old. In this modern era an Eswood dishwasher will have a life expectancy of 10-15 years. The restaurateur can increase the life of their dishwasher by following a few simple rules: • Service your dishwasher periodically. • Conduct a weekly dishwasher cleaning schedule – like cleaning the jets arms and de-scale, replace worn or broken parts. The triggers for an upgrade are a rising cost per item washed or persistently poor results. If the maintenance costs or chemical consumption are rising or your rewash rates are rising, it is probably time to look hard at causes and consider an upgrade. Where are your products sourced? Australia. Australian manufacturers are always maximising employment opportunities available for Australians. Jobs, wages and dividends all stay here. Our dealer networks use our Eswood premises as a showcase to their clients. Our dedicated staff and our extensive network of dealers throughout the country make Eswood the choice of dish and glass washers to the most discerning clients.
Australian Made… and proud of it… • Rack-conveyor, pass-through, undercounter and bench-top models with sizes to suit every need. • Powerful wash/rinse cycles for fast turnaround. • Advanced energy and water saving features. • Quality stainless steel construction and heavy duty componentry for continuous reliable performance. • Nationwide service and support. • 12 month parts and labour warranty.
NSW: (02) 9604 7333 Vic: (03) 9553 1355 Qld: (07) 3890 1811 SA: (08) 8238 3423 WA: (08) 9456 0559
• Guaranteed minimum 10 years parts availability.
AUSTRALIA’S PREMIER FOOD SERVICE EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURER
www.goldsteineswood.com.au
A d va n c ed en plus er erg y a n d w a t er s g o n om ic h igh m a vin g fe a tur e o un t c o n tro ls s
IN CONVERSATION WITH
ZANUssI
STACKED IN YOUR FAVOUR There will always be different levels of customers. It is our job we believe to educate people on the environmental issues and how our machines perform to save resources and allow the customer to make the choice between environment and price. In an ideal world what would you suggest as being one major issue most likely to improve ware washing?
the frequency of breakdown calls you make and emergency repairs done to the machine. This will always be the driving factor for machine replacement.
Setting stringent criteria for any company who wants to import and sell ware washing equipment and to ensure the quality of product, longevity of service and a full back up support.
What issues are you dealing with when you consider installation of electronic dispensers?
Who would Zanussi appeal to most? Anyone who has a need for a machine that gives good consistent cleaning results, in most cases with HACCP, guaranteed rinse, ease of access for cleaning at the end of a service period and allows good access for servicing as required. To what extent does the ‘human factor’ impact upon performance of the dishwasher? Yes very much. The performance of the machine starts with a well designed area. The design of the area needs to allow for good flow from entrance of dirties to exit of clean products. Correct sorting, soaking and prewash procedures need to be adhered to. Correct baskets for crockery and glassware can minimise breakages and handling. Appropriate shut down cleaning procedures will ensure that the machine can work at its best all the time. What factors dictate when it is time to upgrade your ware washing unit? What kind of time scale comes to mind?
For information and advice contact J.L. Lennard
Sales, Service & Spare Parts 1800 777 440 www.jllennard.com.au
Presuming that the machine is well maintained the power water and chemical usage should not significantly change. What is also a tell tale sign is
Our machines are all supplied with terminals ready for connection to support the suppliers of electronic dispenses. Define your preventative maintenance service regime? A maintenance contract is generally assessed on an individual basis to give our customers what is best for their situation not just a generic regime of calls. How can the training of staff be improved? Either the owners of establishments use independent companies who have trained staff to carry out the training or set up a standard within the industry for all companies selling machines and/or chemicals to have qualified trainers. We then need to have the industry understand that there is a cost associated with having trained staff. How can we improve contacts and relations with the end user? Unfortunately ware washing is often undervalued in any operation. It is therefore not given the attention that it requires. We need to help the end user understand that a successful business is reliant on good ware washing operations and have them invest into this area. Where are your products sourced? Italy.
IN CONVERSATION WITH
ALLsAFe HYGIeNe
CODE RED CARE Good quality equipment reduces the reliance on excessive chemical usage. It also plays an integral part in minimising the harmful effects that these chemicals have on the environment. In an ideal world what would you suggest as being one major issue most likely to improve ware washing and cleaning food preparation equipment? A well implemented cleaning equipment system will go a long way to improve cleaning standards in the industry. Who would Allsafe Hygiene appeal to the most? The hotel industry to us is a very competitive market and to maintain a reputation for a high standard of hygiene could make the difference. Allsafe assists many companies seeking to become market leaders with their HACCP and food safety standards in the hotel industry. To what extent does the “human factor” impact upon performance of the equipment?
were looking for a system to sanitise their ice handling equipment which was not satisfied by the equipment that was available on the market. Allsafe developed an ice scoop sanitation unit specifically to satisfy their requirements. What is topical or newsworthy when you think about ware washing/ hygiene/kitchen products? Implementing a well structured colour coded cleaning equipment program to eliminate cross contamination within the hotel industry. How can the training of staff be improved in a five star hotel? Allsafe has adopted a system of instructing staff in the correct procedures and practices to maximise their efficiency.
SPECIALISING IN QUALITY CLEANING & SAFETY EQUIPMENT Colour coded cleaning tools Water guns and hose reels Vacuums and Floor scrub machines
The human factor plays an important part in the implementation of the system and an understanding of the benefits to both the establishment and employees are essential.
Safety steps and ladders
What factors dictate when it is time to upgrade your hygiene products and what kind of time scale comes to mind?
First aid supplies
The time factor varies according to usage and surface types however in the hotel industry most equipment lasts 5-10 years.
Mobile Showroom We Come to You
Anti-Fatigue and safety matting
What issues with HACCP are you working with? Allsafe is constantly working with customers to assist in analysing and finding solutions to their HACCP issues. For example a number of five star hotels
PH: 02 9548 0280 16 Burns Rd Heathcote NSW 2233 sales@allsafehygiene.com
IN CONVERSATION WITH
tRUe BLUe
NOT JUST CLEAN – STERILE There are many false economies and myths around cost in use that are perpetuated in kitchens around the country. But it is these ‘hidden’ extras which can make or break success in a business. By having a supplier that understands your needs and delivers these services as part of their entire package, you gain peace of mind and can focus on actually running your core business rather than fighting fires on a daily basis. If you could change one thing in ware washing? Educating the industry with: • Selecting the correct capacity machine for their requirements. • The right detergent and rinse additive system coupled with a dispensing system that can deliver greater accuracy (hence less product used) and report on a use cost basis. Buying cheap chemicals is generally not effective or economical. • Training both on the proper ware washing procedures and occupational health and safety issues. The type of customer is best suited to True Blue? Our experience with customers in the many different facets of the hospitality industry, including clubs, hotels, resorts, sporting and entertainment venues, restaurants cafés and health care facilities allows us to offer our customers a complete range of efficient and economical products that work, and to deliver superior service to their site. We are proudly independent and a local manufacturer of quality cleaning, hygiene and maintenance products that offers a range of products suitable for every ware washing application, including: • High volume machine dishwashers • Hand dishwashing • Glass washing • Cutlery washing • Pot washing • OH&S solutions for commercial kitchens We are a unique supplier and big enough to innovate, but small enough to deliver genuine and responsive service. You don’t just receive the delivery of products, but you receive the full service package, which includes: • Comprehensive staff training across multiple sites if needed • High quality, high visibility support material and safety/wall charts • Screen printed bottles for safety and ease of use • Assistance with compliance and accreditation • Development of chemical management plans • Inventory management processes to streamline your purchasing functions Can the performance of the dishwasher be improved by the actions of the operators? Correct staff training is so important in optimising the latest features and benefits of new products which are now offered by both machine and detergent manufactures. Also simple things like proper stacking of racks, to unclogging of wash and rinse jets will increase the washing efficiency and results.
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Many manufactures will provide this training (in some cases accredited) free of charge. What balances the relationship between the dishwasher, water supply and chemicals? The answer to this question is results versus end use cost, dishwashers today are both leaner and meaner, referring to their water and power consumption, the choice of ware wash chemical is critical in ensuring that these benefits are not lost due to outdated technology or choosing chemicals purely on price. Many chemical suppliers haven’t kept up with these changes, the ones that have offer products that not only enhance these benefits but also address the problems of hard water and machine scaling resulting from dropping reservoir levels Australia-wide. What issues are you being faced with the installation of electronic dispensers today? To capitalise on the technological advances in dishwasher design and ware wash chemicals formulation, manufacturers are utilising electronic dispenser technology that had its genesis in the computer and aerospace industries. Electronic dispenses today deliver more accurate and faster dosage, report on usage, reference rack counts, compliance to set points (concentration), the incidence of open circuits (when a drum has emptied and not been replaced) and they can analyse a problem and take remedial action. For example changing from reading a probe signal to dispensing a predetermined concentration and notifying that it has done so. They also print out a documented record to further verify compliance to various food safety programs including HACCP plans. These dispensers require a high level of knowledge and knowhow not only in their installation but their ongoing maintenance. Have you experienced any new changes in the last month? The ware washing industry market has become more volatile. I believe all customers both ours and our opposition are questioning the value proposition we present to them, can they get a ‘bigger bang for their buck‘. Where are your products made? All of True Blue chemicals are formulated and manufactured for Australian conditions at our Caringbah plant in NSW Australia.
Australian Owned and Made
Solutions that work, service you can rely on True Blue Chemicals is the proud manufacturer of quality cleaning and hygiene products that deliver superior value and results for your business. But it doesn’t end there. As an independent, local business, we pride ourselves on being big enough to innovate, but small enough to deliver genuine and responsive service. For every sized business, we provide a full service package that includes: • Comprehensive staff training and support material • Site audits and risk assessment • Technical and Compliance Support, including HACCP • Chemical Management Plans • Inventory Management • A commitment to remaining environmentally responsible
If it’s time to get a better deal from your cleaning and hygiene product supplier, give True Blue a call today for an obligation free discussion, a site survey or a free product demonstration. Phone: 1800 635 746 Email: sales@truebluechemicals.com.au Website: www.truebluechemicals.com.au
QuAlITy ClEAnIng, MAInTEnAnCE And HygIEnE SOluTIOnS ESTABlISHEd OVER 20 yEARS • lOCAl MAnuFACTuRER • ISO9001 ACCREdITEd SAlES OFFICES THROugHOuT AuSTRAlIA
IN CONVERSATION WITH
JoHNsoN DIVeRseY
OUR GOOD CHINA PLATE A good operator will save the possible costs of breakage. Clean machinery is a result of knowledge of what the end result is producing and fixing the problem before it causes all sorts of damage. If you could change one thing in ware washing industry what would that be? It’s annoying how we keep having to training new people, so it would an excellent move to have a recognised industry standard and training program for individuals in the ware washing industry. Who would Johnson Diversey appeal to most? Any food outlet that prides themselves on a perfect presentation. What balances the relationship between the dishwasher, water supply and chemicals? Each one relies on the other for a perfect result. A dirty dishwasher will not produce an acceptable result. Poor quality water can leave all sorts of residue on the finished article. Too little chemical will not give the desired result. To much chemical will leave residual streaks as well as increasing costs. What factors dictate when it is time to upgrade your ware washing chemicals? What kind of time scale comes to mind? When the chemical usage is progressively getting higher and results are not up to expectations. What issues are you dealing with when you consider installation of electronic dispenses? Dishwasher manufacturers share a lot of the same goals with Johnson Diversey, which are superior results achieved with less and less water and energy. We have to admit that some times the co-ordination of innovations between the machine manufacturers and our industry is less than perfect and then we both have to quickly scramble to be in synchronization again.
This sometimes causes compromises in the efficiency in one part of the chain but enviably this is balanced by improvements in another part of the chain. Are your customers now driven more to price over the environment? As we have mentioned above sustainability covers the whole product life chain. We strive to improve the product’s sustainability in a zero cost way. Sometimes this might mean that the product package price might increase but invariably there are balances with the in use cost or disposal. How can we improve contacts and relations with the end user? We are in a relationship business. When we walk into kitchens our customers are expecting solutions not just sales patter. Therefore creating and maintaining great contacts and relationships is mandatory. Companies that just trade on price and no service just don’t get it! Where are your products sourced? We are an international company and manufacture in most countries. We pride ourselves on manufacturing most of our products for the Australian market out of our Smithfield Factory. AHWA is targeting these issues into future ware washing industry training packages such as; HACCP, OH&S, Food Safety, Breakage control, Chemical safety, Stewarding operations, Manual handling, Dishwasher operations with crockery, cutlery and glassware. Do you have any comments on these areas? These are all very good initiatives and should have been part of the industry standards a long time ago.
If you have attended an AHWA meeting, what was your experience and what did you learn? Training, savings in all areas of the ware washing section are being addressed. How is sustainability and energy saving with chemicals affecting the R&D side of your business, and what are you doing to resolve it? Sustainability is a whole of process commitment, from the selection, blending and transporting of the raw materials to disposing of the products containers and the effluent produced. As a result, environmental benefits are achieved along this chain.
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Food
Unison customers clean up. The Suma Unison dishwashing system can supply much more than just sparkling glasses and super clean tableware. Our customers enjoy increased productivity and cost efficiencies from our attention to detail. Like two grip points on detergent bottles that make them easy to handle. Like see-through packs that allow operators to visually check levels and keep supplies up to date. And an Off the Floor design for all the products including the liqud rinse aid. Suma Unison systems incorporate a lot more unique technology you should find out about. Contact JohnsonDiversey now and clean up.
JohnsonDiversey Australia Pty Limited 29 Chifley Street, Smithfield NSW 2164 %(02) 9757 0300
www.johnsondiversey.com.au
Food_Companion_FP_Ad_FA.indd 1
Clean is just the beginning
12/5/09 7:28:13 PM
Why do so many Australian businesses trust Jasol for their cleaning and hygiene chemicals?
It is Jasol’s dedication over a 70 year period to locally manufacturing high quality cleaning chemicals. This coupled with good communication, an understanding of our customer’s needs, an experienced nation wide presence and the capacity to provide the right product and service solution for each job. This results in a total package that gives our customers the Jasol advantage. To discover how Jasol can help you please contact your local branch or visit www.jasol.com.au SA | T +618 8346 4322 WA | T +618 9337 4844
VIC | T +613 9580 6722 NSW | T +612 9725 5511
QLD | T +617 3380 8100 TAS | T +613 6272 7511
WAREWAShING FORUM
KNOWLEDGE IS THE KEY BRIAN LENNOX Knowledge is a powerful tool if you take the time to learn and think laterally you’ll see that you can not only move ahead with the industry but be cutting edge.
T
he food world industry is constantly changing and our diners are demanding. Remember the days of the ‘all you can eat’ food eateries like The Denny’s Pizza Hut, Sizzlers where they all offered what was deemed at the time to be a good product, it was what the diner and market sought. But times and food styles have changed with it, and as we move more into the 21st century it’s important that we embrace change and adapt constantly. That’s why FCSI is so important, we are fortunate that an Asia Pacific division of the FCSI operates in this region. The Foodservice Consultants Society International – Asia Pacific Division or FCSI APD, embodies the idea that knowledge is a key in our industry. Knowledge relating to the latest trends in cooking methods, food preparation, ware washing, safe food handling and efficient designs is constantly looked at, reviewed, tested and incorporated into bar, bistro and kitchen designs by the members of this organisation.
As a member of this organisation I am delighted to be writing for this journal which supports the Australian Hospitality Ware washing Association 100 per cent. I look forward to offering insight into design theory and unbiased technical advice on equipment and systems and responding to your feedback and comments. To know more about FCSI go to www.fcsi.org or contact me on bplennox@virginbroadband.com.au Brian Lennox Design Consultant
Kevin Starr and Andrew Chyra chewing the fat at an AHWA meet.
IN CONVERSATION WITH
sANGsteR DesIGN GRoUP
A NEAR SCRAPE INDEED Dishwashers were never intended to be waste collection devices and the pre-rinsing/pre-washing of items is an issue that is not fully understood by operators. In an ideal world what would you suggest as being one major issue most likely to improve ware washing? Operating costs for the consumer, rather than the initial capital outlay to purchase the machine. The cost of water per basket ie; the chemical required is proportional to the volume of water and energy consumed and also relates to the volume of water used to wash each basket of crockery or glassware. Who would Sangster Design appeal to most? We have a broad range of clients that cover the following groups: • 5 star international hotels • Pubs and clubs • Aged health care facilities • Corporate catering facilities • Large hospitality precincts such as stadiums, entertainment centres and other large catering centres. • A unique range of prestigious clients including; Sydney Opera House, Australian Federal Parliament building, National Portrait Gallery. We are currently working Australiawide. To what extent does the ‘human factor’ impact upon performance of the dishwasher? The performance of the dishwasher cannot be completely improved by the operator, but the speed of the whole dishwashing operation can be improved by the operator and quite often it’s to do with the efficiency of the dishwashing area and maximising each individual’s capabilities. It’s not about working harder, but smarter. From a running cost point of view when is it time to upgrade your ware washing unit? Many people don’t understand that there is a significant cost in operating older equipment and that new technology has provided people with an opportunity to save with ware washing
49/1-9 Palmer Street,Parramatta NSW 2150 Phone: + 61 2 9630 0148 Fax + 6 1 2 9630 5755 Contact: Ken Sangster or Brian Lennox Email: brian@sangsterdesign.com.au Web: www.sangsterdesign.com.au
costs. Some people often replace the unit with exactly the same design and configuration to the one that they have had for the last 10-15 years and achieve no significant savings to their business, which is a straight bottom line profit. Do you have anything topical or newsworthy when you think about ware washing? Yes, we’ve reviewed a machine that now uses less than two litres of water to wash each basket of crockery. The technology in this machine is new and it’s patented, and will have a significant impact on the industry in the years to come. How can the training of staff be improved? Quite often no training is provided to operators of dishwashing areas. Suppliers will show the operator/owner of a small business how to switch the machine on and off, but beyond that, very little is provided in the way of training. Quite often staffing in ware washing areas are casual staff and therefore little can be done in the way of long term training. It would be helpful if establishments had a standard video on the generic operation of machinery systems, particularly explaining the difference between a dishwasher and a garbage bin. Dishwashers were never intended to be waste collection devices and the pre-rinsing/pre-washing of items is an issue that is not fully understood by operators. What would be the ideal role for AHWA? AHWA could be the organisation to produce this generic video on the general operation of a ware washing system without being specific to a brand of the dishwasher. The video would also entail the cleaning of a dishwasher to maintain the machines’ performance in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Reference to the owner’s manual for specific requirements for their own brand of dishwasher as to the exact method of cleaning and maintaining their machine is advisable.
Photo courtesy of ACT Stainless.
IN CONVERSATION WITH
DoMINANt cHeMIcALs
DON’T WARE SECOND BEST We specialise in cleaning and sanitising solutions within restaurants, pubs, hospitals, aged care, food and beverage manufacturers or anywhere cleaning and sanitisation standards need to be met, which is sort of everywhere. Eddie Georgonicas, State Sales Manager (SA & NSW)
In an ideal world what would you suggest as being one major issue most likely to improve ware washing? Seeing an accredited induction program in all restaurants and hotels. To what extent does the ‘human factor’ impact upon performance of the dishwasher? Everything is ultimately dependant on the human factor. A possible solution is to set up a simple checklist and running through this once or twice a day would be a proactive and preventative approach to maximising the efficiencies of a dishwasher. If you have attended an AHWA meeting, what did you think and what did you get out of it? One thing that stood out for me was that they discussed pertinent issues, like where the ware washing manufacturers were heading in the future and what were they going to do about it? Then onto the chemical suppliers and what was expected from them? Ultimately and inevitably the ownership and responsibility of good ware washing practices needs to lay with the kitchen itself. Define your preventative maintenance service regime. Usually involves checking the mechanics of the dishwasher (rinse jets/ chemical dosing etc), ensuring correct chemical concentration,
temperature monitoring, appearance of the dishwasher (includes food scraps, scale, probe condition.) As chemical suppliers, we generally offer our services once a month – and I therefore come back to my point of educating kitchen staff, offering induction programs and having everyone become a responsible and conscientious employee. How can the training of staff be improved? The owner of the kitchen has to take responsibility for ensuring that systems are in place to educate and make all aware of good ware washing practices. Make no compromises or presumptions. Whether the employee is fresh out of school or an established kitchen hand with several years’ service – all staff should be put through a comprehensive training and awareness program. What factors come to mind when you consider price relative to environment? Different people - different needs. It comes down to tailoring a program that suits the customer and meets his/ her needs. Your location? Head office is Adelaide. Branch offices and distribution centres are located around Australia.
IN CONVERSATION WITH
cLeVeLAND
COOL POWER In the workplace we would like to see the Australian Hospitality Ware washing Association setting new standards to eliminate confusion in the marketplace. If you could change one thing in ware washing? Training is a key but I consider the ‘value proposition’ to the customer would be the number one priority to change. Many customers believe the dishwasher and its associated cost to be an expense, which needs to be reduced. Instead it needs to be an area that is viewed as pivotal to the operation. Also I would like to see star rating system for commercial energy and water consumption.
Have you experienced any new changes in the last month? New technology and cost effective methods of dispensing. If you have attended an AHWA meeting, what was your experience and what did you learn? We have not attended a meeting to date; however, we are keen to attend in the future.
The type of clients those are suited to Cleveland?
Define your preventative maintenance service regime?
Clients that require high quality products and services, value for money, and who value Australian made and owned products.
We complete monthly service calls to determine that the machine is running efficiently. A written report is completed every month for the customer.
Can the performance of the dishwasher be improved by the actions of the operators? Where does one start with this question? The actions of the operator are critical to the efficiency of the machine and product. Proper scraping of dishes and loading the racks can greatly affect the efficiency of the machine. Regular cleaning and preventative maintenance will ensure the dishwasher gives optimum results. Add to this the monthly service call by your chemical company, the machine will run efficiently and be cost effective. From a running cost point of view when is it time to upgrade your ware washing unit? There are two ways to view this. Firstly when maintenance costs become prohibitive, and secondly, when the latest technology will ensure cost benefits. What issues are you being faced with the installation of electronic dispensers today?
How is sustainability and energy saving with chemicals affecting the R&D side of your business, and what are you doing to resolve it? We have products available that require the use of lower temperatures hence reducing energy costs. We are continually reviewing our range to ensure the customer receives the full benefit and thus receiving the latest technology. In saying this, we have been in the business for 42 years and will continue to carefully assess the latest technological advances before releasing them to the marketplace. How can we improve the consistency in the levels of staff operational training given in the ware washing industry? We need to keep offering consistent and effective training and advice. Talking to customers about their individual needs and requirements and tailoring a solution. The customer also has to look at this question and attempt to improve staff retention. We are seeing this in many top end dining restaurants.
The design of the wash up area can make the installation of the dispensers difficult. Overall, the latest electronic dispensers are beneficial to the customer and to us.
Welcome to Cleveland Cleaning Supplies, a wholly Australian owned company and supplier of complete and comprehensive Cleaning and Hygiene solutions to Hospitality, Foodservice and other Industries. CLEVELAND CLEANING SUPPLIES Our Australia Wide Local Call Number is 1300 760 765 Email: Web: www.cleveland.com.au 76 | F O Osales@cleveland.com.au D C O M PAN I O N I NTE R NATI O NAL
IN CONVERSATION WITH
DeMA
DON’T JUST GO WITH THE FLOW This is not a huge problem, just a niggling one. If the industry had one national checklist when installing dispensers, it would be fantastic and would make life and work a lot easier. In an ideal world what would you suggest as being one major issue most likely to improve ware washing? Installing dispensers properly! The way dispensers are installed in Australia and worldwide is consistently inconsistent. All of the ware washing manufacturers have standard dispenser connections and there’s a lot of different models around which is frustrating for us and then people say the equipment doesn’t work. There are lots of people involved in the process of installing a ware washing system but they don’t talk to each other.
as a junior would be clever. What factors come to mind when you consider price relative to environment? Chemical companies have been driven to produce more environmentally friendly products. What would be the ideal role for AHWA?
Who would Dema appeal to most?
To see education and an industry profile created. If AHWA got educational flyers printed, we would commit to distributing them to our clients in Australia and New Zealand, which would benefit everyone.
Chemical companies 100 per cent.
Where are your products sourced?
To what extent does the ‘human factor’ impact upon performance of the dishwasher?
St Louis, Missouri, USA and Sydney, Australia.
Yes the human factor makes a difference, but you need to have regular cleaning and maintenance programs set and don’t forget to increase scraping. What issues are you dealing with when you consider installation of electronic dispensers? Incorrectly installed dispensers and poor maintenance. If you have attended an AHWA meeting, what did you think and what did you get out of it? They are still growing, at each meeting there are new people there, and heading in the right direction, definitely moving ahead, it’s like a real snowball effect. How can the training of staff be improved? A government recognised training scheme needs to be introduced. To conduct dishwashing in a professional kitchen requires a special skill and to have a piece of paper for this it would be commended. To have a transferable piece of paper and to have the authority to train someone
AHWA is looking at a possible dishwasher’s training course; do you have anything else you would like to add? • HACCP • OH&S • Food Safety • Breakage control • Chemical safety • Stewarding operations • Manual handling • Dishwasher operations with crockery, cutlery & glassware We would love to see dispenser training included; involving how they work and making the operators' jobs easier, so end-users can determine if the breakdown is a chemical fault or a dishwashing fault. Often the wrong person is called in when the dishwasher breaks down, and because the chemical representative doesn’t charge for his visit, they will call him first, and then call the dishwashing manufacturer. We would really like to see generic education flow charts generated and distributed i.e.; ‘Breakdown Check list’ so operators know what to do when there’s a breakdown.
• Dosing Pumps • Injectors • Siesta Chlorinators Unit 5, 7-11 Parraweena Road, Caringbah NSW 2229 Australia Contact: Geoff Moroney Mobile: 0438 117 228 F O O D C O M PA N I O N Phone: + 61 2 9525 5177 Fax Int + 6 1 2 9525 5033 Email: geoffm@demaust.com
Geoff Moroney
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PRIVATE VS PUBLIC EDUCATION REPORT
Paths of gastronomy Food Companion International looks at the debate between private and public culinary education. Public education takes longer, but qualifications can be attainted at a fraction of the cost.
C
alling all new recruits! Every great chef or hospitality student has to start somewhere. Shannon Bennett wasn’t born knowing how to make a soufflé and there was a time when Brent Savage didn’t know compound chocolate from couverture chocolate.
never cooked before, or decanted a bottle of wine. Maybe you have
Being a beginner is nothing to be ashamed of and maybe you’ve
FCI looks at private and public providers.
spent your life thinking that you will never make it in a real kitchen or a hotel. Maybe you should think seriously about giving it a go. Whether it’s front of house or cheffing, your role requires skills and there’s no reason why you can’t be a Tony Bilson or a Paul Bocuse.
Blue sky opportunity Traditional techniques have to be mastered, but then they need to be applied to the contemporary environment that is Sydney here and now. Favourite thing about your location? We are so very close to the Sydney CBD and only minutes by train from everything. Students love being among the business region that is North Sydney and the colourful vibrant food court on the ground floor of the Northpoint building provides a wonderful meeting place for the students. They also have the opportunity to rub shoulders with the business community and shopping is at their fingertips. More people study privately, why? Private study gives the student the opportunity to choose a college that epitomises their personality while meeting their quality educational needs rather than the perceived standardisation of the public sector. It is all about meeting the expectations of the student in regards to their learning experience. A qualification enhanced by William Blue’s involvement will appeal to which end of the market? William Blue prides itself in producing highly skilled graduates that have the right can-do attitude to the industry and the workplace in general. William Blue is all about the quality of the experience from the facilities to the staff to the academic curriculum and the worthwhile contacts with the industry. Everything has to be top class. What are the three main ingredients that make a great graduate? 78
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Skills, knowledge and Attitude (with a capital “a’’). Do the courses offer practical work experience? Think education provides itself in “setting the new standard in applied education” and every course we offer has this application firmly embedded in the method of delivery. In contrast you reach the top professionally in the hospitality, tourism areas and culinary? Our students know the underlying principles of fine food and fine wine but it is the application of those skills to modern trends in dining that take the student to the next level to make them highly sought after. Is there accommodation there? We can assist students in their choice of accommodation but we are not residential. William Blue’s teaching formula is? Application, application, application. You have a retail hub, including a restaurant, why? The students at William Blue have the opportunity to practice real skills for the real world in our supervised training restaurant, William Blue dining, and experience what the industry is like first hand. We also have the ability to showcase what our students can do. Are you accredited? William Blue operates in the higher education space and also the VETAB space and we are fully accredited to do so. Do you offer student support? We offer student support through
Think: Buddy, which provides general student support as well as international and pastoral support. Think Future which provides career management and industry placement support and Think Space which provides library, as well as photocopying and printing support. Other facilities on the site include? Student break out areas, training restaurant, theory and practical skills training rooms, computer and library resources, counselling rooms, academic skills support rooms, and an English language college to support our students language and foundation studies requirements. Do you run promotions or do business with any leading chefs? We assisted all the leading restaurants at Taste of Sydney earlier this year and have relationships with all the main players in Sydney. Undoubtedly public education has its own list of attributes; however one fundamental at William Blue is cost? What cost can you put on a stunning career opportunity? How many students per year attend? We have three intakes per year and the average intake is 8090 students. Numbers are increasing but so is the quality of our graduates as we all learn by our experiences and listen to the ever changing world that is hospitality. FCI
WIN
A SCHOLARSHIP WORTH OVER $30,000. EDUCATION WHICH FITS YOUR LIFESTYLE Full-time, part-time and online study options available.
ADVANCED DIPLOMAS AND BACHELOR DEGREES IN: > Hospitality Management > Tourism Management > Event Management > Commercial Cookery. STUDY NOW AND PAY LATER with the Australian Government Loan Schemes FEE-HELP and VET FEE-HELP.
ADVANCE YOUR CAREER IN HOSPITALITY WITH WILLIAM BLUE t 1300 851 237 w williamblue.edu.au e info@williamblue.edu.au Think: Colleges Pty Ltd trading as William Blue College of Hospitality and Tourism, RTO No 0269, CRICOS Provider Code 00246M, HEP No NSW5028
PRIVATE VS PUBLIC EDUCATION REPORT
Raw talent As prospective students we were invited along with Food Companion International to tour campus and to see what actually goes on behind the scenes of a culinary school.
T
O kickstart the morning we were met by William Angliss Institute’s, Ainslee and taken to the academy of coffee; where up and coming barristas are trained in the art of making the perfect cup of coffee. They also run short courses in coffee art. From there we moved on to the bake shop where the public can purchase the students’ work, including an attractive array of cakes, desserts, chocolate, bread and restaurant quality meats as well as smallgoods supplied by the butchery students – we wanted to buy one of everything. We were then taken into a classroom where the students were learning how to make sculptures with sugar. We were impressed by a hand-blown fish and swan made by a fourth year apprentice and later got some pictures of the lecturer and students with their sculptures. We thanked all of them and then moved into bakery. The smell of fresh bread was just magical, and students were making bread based on their own recipes as part of an assessment task, their loaves were proving, some students made olive, rum and raisin and even chili bread. Then on to butchery, where we met two lecturers with some butcher apprentices learning to make sausages with pork mince – we were told that these sausages would be served at a barbecue to some new students next week, which sounded very sociable. The last stop on our tour was where all the action was at the Angliss Restaurant, the working restaurant of the trade school where apprentice chefs have the opportunity to work in a functioning kitchen outside their workplace. Dale Lyman, the head teacher in charge spent time talking to us about the realities of becoming a chef in today’s food world, which is something Shannon is always talking to us about at Vue de Monde. We would like to complete our VCE first then attend William Angliss Institute in five years, then to have our own restaurant in about 15 years. Thanks for a memorable tour! FCI
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PRIVATE VS PUBLIC EDUCATION REPORT
Covering all the Angliss William Angliss Institute in Melbourne appeals to both ends of the market as we are a specialist centre, writes Gordon Talty and Mark Agius.
W
illiam Angliss Institute in Melbourne appeals to both ends of the market as we are a specialist centre, writes Gordon Talty and Mark Agius. A qualification offered by William Angliss Institute is readily recognised by the industry as relevant and all graduates of William Angliss Institute are job ready. We also offer programs with practical placement opportunities for students, so they get real industry experience and can ‘taste test’ different aspects of the industry allowing them to make an informed choice about which career route to take.
motivator, extensive food knowledge and
What are the three main ingredients that make a great chef? A good leader/
Placement Program (IPP) and our Degree
knowledge on menu design and costing With
the
method
do
the
courses
offer practical work experience? All apprentices at William Angliss Institute are employed with a reputable organisation and non apprentices (full time cookery students) are advised to gain some experience while they study. Employers tend to look favourably on students who study at William Angliss Institute, and so many full time students also are employed at quality restaurants. Practical work experience is also offered to Tourism and Hospitality students via the Industry Programs include a one year work Integrated
Learning Component. William Angliss’s teaching formula is? William Angliss Institute is committed to being an industry specialist; our teaching formula continues to develop a platform for self determination, adopts a pro-active approach to skill development and strives to add significant value to industry and the community. You have some attractive retail hubs available including; restaurants, bakeries, why? William Angliss Institute has three training restaurants available to our students. It is important for all our cookery and food and beverage students to be able to practice what they are learning in a hands-on environment. It is extremely important that F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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our students gain skills and experience in all
to date and relevant. Facilities on campus
from Verge Restaurant, Gabriel Martin
aspects of industry. Cookery students need to
include? Three restaurants, seven cookery
from Fabric Restaurant, John McLeay from
understand the process of food preparation
unit kitchens, six bakery / patisserie kitchens,
Red Spice Road and Frank Comorra from
and service, and food and beverage students
chocolate
centre,
MoVida. We also conduct Industry specific
need to understand the theory behind food
three demonstration rooms, fully equipped
master artisan programs in conjunction with
service, but more importantly they need to
butchery practical room, wine evaluation
other key industry associations or leading
gain the practical experience. Along with
room, three bars, and a coffee training centre.
practitioners. We also can offer short courses
our three training restaurants, we have a
Do you run promotions or do business
to up-skill and also provide people with a basic
bakeshop that sells students’ creations. On
with any leading chefs? The renowned
knowledge so they can begin their career in the
any given day, you can expect to find delicious
Great Chefs program has been operating at
industry. We provide pathways that encourage
cuts of meat, cakes, scones or even chocolate
William Angliss Institute for sixteen years.
life long learning and opportunities for people
sweets. The bake shop and restaurants are all
It provides final year Professional Cookery
to continually up-skill. We offer a career
open to the public. Are you accredited? As
students with the opportunity to work with
counselling and placement services to students
a Registered Training Organisation all of our
the leaders and innovators in Victoria’s
and industry via our Career Hub - an online
programs are accredited and have continuous
culinary scene. The 2009 Great Chefs
job board for students to seek full time, part
improvement strategies to ensure they are up
Program features chefs such as Dallas Cuddy
time, volunteer and casual employment. FCI
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1595
William angliss institute
Specialist Centre for Hospitality, Tourism and Culinary Arts
Invest in your people, your future Targeted, professional training for your employees William Angliss Institute is a dedicated training provider to the tourism, hospitality and foods industries, providing a range of innovative training solutions for today’s dynamic marketplace.
As the Specialist Centre for Hospitality, Tourism and Culinary Arts, the Institute’s portfolio of training programs spans degrees and advanced diplomas, through to certificate programs, Australian Apprenticeships and customised short courses. A number of options are also available to recognize the skills of your existing staff.
For further information on how to invest in your people contact: William Angliss Institute CRICOS Provider 01505M
555 La Trobe Street Melbourne Victoria 3000 Australia Phone: +613 9606 2111 Email: info@angliss.edu.au Web: www.angliss.edu.au
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PrivATe vs PuBLiC eduCATioN rePorT
I n C on V e r s aT I on W I T h
shannon BenneTT melBourne’s Vue de monde
larousse la TeCh The cutting-edge equipment we are being exposed to, like the Pacojet, Thermomix and Thermoregulator allow us to create classic dishes in an entirely new way. It enhances flavours, textures and adds to the theatre of the dining experience. Born? 1973 in Westmeadows, Melbourne Education? Essendon Grammar. Best kitchens worked? All the kitchens I have
worked in have taught me an enormous amount. Even McDonald’s was a great learning experience, let alone the great kitchens I worked in like L’Ortolan and Marco Pierre White’s Le Restaurant. Favourite cheap eat? Anything fast and fresh, prepared with care. Parisians have perfected the filled baguette as something to grab and go while you explore the city. What keeps you going? The desire to constantly improve. Advice to future young chefs? Follow your passion, and stay true to it. This industry is demanding, but also greatly rewarding. If you have passion, and stay focused on that, you will succeed. Favourite kitchen tools? The low-tech truffle slicer is one of my favourites. Most controversial menu item? Anything expensive is a little bit controversial these days! Favourite thing about Melbourne? The enthusiasm for food, which allows us to pursue standards equal to the best restaurants in Europe. Most useful cookbook? Larousse Gastronomique is the chef’s bible and Le Repertoire de la Cuisine by Louis Saulnier is also very good. Early influences? I was influenced by the food of the family dining table, prepared by my mother, father and grandmother, as well
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as pivotal dining experiences at Melbourne’s iconic dining restaurants like Florentino and the Hilton. This led me to seek out even more inspiration dining in Europe as a teenager. On classic v modern cuisine? There cannot be modern cuisine without the teaching of the classics. Career you would have chosen if you didn’t become a chef? Possibly I would have followed in my brother’s footsteps: a pilot. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Vue de monde is doing this now:
which is inspiring and educating. So are many others here and all over the world; the industry is in great shape. Career turning point? The great support given to me by my uncle Tom and all my family. I wouldn’t be where I am without them. Favourite sport? Like any Australian kid, I played AFL and cricket at school, and still follow them. Working in UK kitchens, you have to follow a ‘real’ football (soccer) team, too! Produce highlights? Truffles from Western Australia and Moonlight oysters from Batemans Bay - they come incredibly close to the taste of those from France. It is fantastic to have this level of quality on our doorstep. Purveyor tip? Find a purveyor who intimately knows the products they stock – check out the wholesale markets. FCI
PRIVATE VS PUBLIC EDUCATION EDUCATIONREPORT REPORT
I N C ON V ERSA T I ON W I T H
TAFE NSW
The power of TAFE We offer a range of study options for aspiring chefs from all walks of life. Whether you are a school leaver, an old hand in the kitchen, looking for a career change or from overseas, there are culinary courses and study options available. Despite the Global Financial Crisis and tightening of the employment market, there are still good employment opportunities in hospitality. In the Sydney metropolitan area, the majority of hospitality jobs available are in cookery and catering followed by food and beverage service positions. It is a great time for people seeking work in the industry or those already in the industry to enhance their skills and opportunities through training. Cooking is a demanding career and not for the faint-hearted. The hours are long and unsociable, the pressure is high and the heat is always on. The essential qualities of a chef are passion, stamina, precision and flair. Unfortunately great cooking skills are not enough to ensure success. Along with developing culinary skills, a repertoire of dishes and a personal style, chefs more than ever need to develop sound business capabilities. The traditional pathway to a career as a chef is through an apprenticeship, combining on-the-job training, complemented by study at TAFE. In NSW apprenticeships are available in Commercial Cookery, Asian Cookery and Patisserie at Certificate III and Certificate IV levels. At Northern Sydney Institute, the study component of a
Certificate III in Hospitality (Commercial Cookery) can be done over two and a half years, attending college one day per week, or apprentices can undertake an accelerated and customised study program under the Enterprise Learning Management (ELM) system. Under ELM, teacher consultants work closely with employers and apprentices to develop a customised learning plan which recognises a range of skills that can be achieved in the workplace. An apprentice working in a specialty seafood restaurant, for example, can achieve the unit ‘Select, prepare and cook seafood’ through preparing an agreed range of dishes in their workplace. The choice of a traditional approach to study or ELM is a matter of choice and suitability of the chef, workplace and apprentice. An alternative to the apprenticeship
pathway is full time study. There has been a significant increase in people studying cookery full-time at NSI’s Ryde College in the past year. Students come from all walks of life, aged sixteen to sixty. Students can complete a Certificate III in Hospitality (Commercial Cookery) in less than one year. NSI assists students gain work throughout their studies and for six months after completion. For people who have worked in kitchens but do not have formal qualifications, Northern Sydney Institute offers an accelerated program that allows cooks to gain trade recognition. Once again the study options are flexible, either attending college one day a week for six months or undertaking a customised recognition and training program under ELM. Chefs who wish to manage a kitchen or run their own F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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PRIVATE VS PUBLIC EDUCATION REPORT courses studied and whether students are eligible for government funding. Apprentices, for example, currently pay $404 per year to study whereas full fee paying students pay over $15,000 per year for full time study (20 hours per week). Northern Sydney Institute has a partnering arrangement with Le Cordon Bleu Australia and delivers culinary and patisserie programs up to Diploma level from Ryde College. These programs are recognised throughout the world as the pinnacle of culinary training and priced accordingly. Northern Sydney Institute is extremely proud to be able to deliver these programs to the exacting standards required by Le Cordon Bleu.
business need a range of management skills including financial management, people management, compliance management and marketing skills. Northern Sydney Institute offers Certificate IV in Hospitality (Commercial Cookery), the Diploma and Advanced Diploma of Hospitality for chefs wishing to further develop their skills. Given the demands of a busy working life, attending college can be difficult. To meet the needs of busy chefs, NSI offers flexible attendance patterns and customised programs and is planning to roll out summer school and e-learning programs for Certificate IV units from July, 2009. Northern Sydney Institutes facilities for cookery training are by far the most advanced and extensive in Australia. Colleges at Ryde, Northern Beaches, Crows Nest and Meadowbank house 15 fully equipped commercial cookery training kitchens, 2 state-of-the art demonstration kitchens, a bakery, two patisserie kitchens and a fully equipped Asian kitchen. In August 2009, three new specialised kitchens will come on line at 86
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Ryde and Meadowbank. This will provide additional capacity to deliver patisserie courses for apprentices and full-time students at Meadowbank. Northern Sydney Institute has five restaurants providing contemporary exceptional learning environments, based on industry best practice:
The Amabassador at Ryde Fusion at Crows Nest The Pittwater at Northern Beaches The Lobby Cafe at Ryde Gumtrees at Meadowbank These establishments provide a great opportunity for students to combine and coordinate their skills in a team environment. Customers enjoy participating in the development of up and coming young professionals and enjoy contemporary style and atmosphere, friendly and professional service, fresh, seasonal and innovative food and great value. The cost of studying cookery in Northern Sydney Institute varies according to the
Northern Sydney Institute provides culinary students with opportunities and support to excel in their field. Students are encouraged to compete in local, national and international competitions, such as Worldskills. Nenad Djuric, a former apprentice of the Park Hyatt and Ryde College students will represent Australia in the International Worldskills competition in Calgary Canada in September this year. Nenad will be accompanied by another Ryde graduate, James Sun in the restaurant service category. Nenad and James pour hours into training for these events with dedicated teachers who willingly provide their time, expertise and support. This year, the World Cuisine Master Class series started at Ryde College. Once a month renowned Sydney chefs share recipes with NSI cookery students, staff, apprentice employers and Le Cordon Bleu students. These classes are a wonderful forum for passionate foodies and provide a wonderful atmosphere for discussion and tasting. Vikrant Kapoor of Zaffran, David Tsirekas of Perama and Emma Sofy of Emma’s on Liberty have supported the master classes so far this year. Over 4,000 students per year choose to study hospitality programs with Northern Sydney Institute. They also offer a diverse range of programs from short workshops to Advanced Diplomas, highly experienced and committed teaching staff, flexible study options, and exceptional facilities and valued added services. FCI
For more information on how Enterprise Learning Management can help your business call
131 674 or visit www.nsi.tafensw.edu.au
PRIVATE VS PUBLIC EDUCATION REPORT
I N C ON V ERSA T I ON W I T H
Josh Edwards THE TEA ROOM, GUNNERS BARRACK
Salted recruit More money, perhaps paid to us from the government, would help attract more chefs. Born? 1985 Education? I am currently a second year apprentice with TAFE Ryde College. Best kitchens worked? The one I work in now: Gunners barracks! I also enjoyed working at Salt. Favourite cheap eat? Anything under 10 bucks preferably Asian food. What keeps you going? Wanting to learn more. Favourite kitchen tools? My knives and my blender. Favourite thing about Sydney? The beaches and the multicultural flavour of the city. Most useful cookbook? All of Ramsay’s books and the Cook’s Companion are a good influence for recipe ideas. White Heat and Kitchen Confidential are a great insight when it comes to cooking. Early influences? Marc Philpott the head chef here and also with him at Salt. On classic v modern cuisine? I prefer the classics done in a modern style. Career you would have pursued if you had not become a chef? Following in my mother’s footsteps and working in television. Working as a chef overseas is going to be? Hard
work, very interesting and beneficial to my career. Career turning point? Doing a trial at Salt for a week fresh out of school and peeling hundreds of quail eggs, I think that was part of the reason they offered me an apprenticeship! Favourite sport? Cricket and football. Ingredient obsessions? Lamb’s my favourite meat and fennel’s my favourite vegetable. Purveyor tip? It’s quality not quantity. FCI 88
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PRIVATE VS PUBLIC EDUCATION REPORT
Perfect blend Le Cordon Bleu has the recipe that turns aspiring connoisseurs into great chefs, writes Jarrod Baker.
For more information contact us: www.cordonbleu.com.au
T
here are three main ingredients that make a great chef: an excellent range of technical skills and knowledge, plenty of practice and a serving of passion. The method in which these ingredients are mixed can vary depending on the kitchens they evolve out of and the minds that mould and shape them. The dish that finally arrives is produced from tried and tested techniques, an eagerness to learn and listen and a willingness to adapt. But every chef has to start somewhere. Shannon Bennett wasn’t born knowing how to make a soufflé and there was a time when Brent Savage didn’t know compound chocolate from couverture chocolate. Any chef embarks on a lifetime of learning and in Australia it begins in culinary accredited trade schools like TAFE and private cooking colleges like Le Cordon Bleu. These, among many others, provide a platform to launch a career and the fundamentals to enter the workplace. But which one best provides the traits employers desire and need in an industry that is demanding, competitive and constantly changing? Professor Elizabeth Harmon, Vice Chancellor of the Victorian University says: “A qualification enhanced by Le Cordon Bleu’s involvement will appeal to the more prestigious end of the market, the elite hotel chains, five star establishments and fine dining restaurants. Jobs in these organisations do not just require high end culinary skills, but talent and flair, and good business, communication and interpersonal skills. The industry has indicated that demand for these skills is the primary area of the current skills shortage and every indicator points to the demand being robust and continuing in the foreseeable future.” Le Cordon Bleu offers an array of courses in culinary arts, hospitality and programmes in gastronomy, educating over 2000 students every year. Their reputation for providing students equipped for a career in the culinary industry is unparalleled and the qualifications F O O D C O M PA N I O N I NTE R N ATI O N A L
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“...Le Cordon Bleu provides an international certification to study and work anywhere in the world.” are internationally recognised. Their programs allow students to discover and progressively master their skills through a methodology that combines demonstration and hands-on practical classes. Le Cordon Bleu’s Sydney facilities offer a culinary arts program that brings together all the critical elements of mastering the principles, theories and techniques of classical French cuisine. Other more academic studies, which still require professional work experience, offer the fundamentals of front line hospitality management. In contrast Le Cordon Bleu’s Adelaide campus has worked with some of Australia’s leading universities to provide business based courses that arm students with skills and techniques to reach the top in the hospitality and tourism arenas. In keeping up with the industry demand for skilled and credentialed professionals Le Cordon Bleu has recently signed an agreement with Victoria University that will see their courses offered in Melbourne. And in the very near future a Bachelor in Restaurant Management will offer students the chance to graduate with a higher education qualification rather than a vocational one. For marketing manager Dimitrios Makris Le Cordon Bleu’s teaching formula is simple, “the curriculum is universal, providing depth and breadth in an array of fields and 90
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in a unique world class setting. The college encourages students to develop their own artistic flair through a flexible study format that can respond to industry trends in a timely manner.” However the majority of Australians still attend TAFE to obtain an apprenticeship for their trade of choice and the culinary industry is no different. An apprenticeship involves part-time study at a TAFE college while gaining valuable on the job experience. Apprentices attend college one day a week for two years as part of their four-year apprenticeship. For those who are already working in the industry there are opportunities to have their skills assessed, recognised and developed while obtaining a qualification. TAFE also caters for those who wish to progress their careers into supervisory and management positions through their higher level courses. Undoubtedly both public and private educational providers have their own long lists of attributes that will cater to the needs of the culinary industry as well as the students. There is however one fundamental difference: price. A TAFE student will pay a subsidised payment of $670 per annum over three years for Certificate 3, requiring a year of full-time work before qualification. On the other hand a student at Le Cordon Bleu can expect to pay around $7600 for a Certificate 1 course over 10 weeks. Others courses are around $10,000 a year and
some of the higher end courses can be as expensive as $25,000. It’s a price that potential employers arguably deem worthwhile. For example, former Le Cordon Bleu student and executive chef Dave Burleigh, at Sydney’s Helm Bar. “As a head chef I have had an opportunity to work with these students who have paid a fortune for their education, showing their commitment to achieve their goals. Most have a solid head and if Australia is willing these graduates are ready to sweat out any difference to further their education.” And as Dimitrios Makris points out: “the costs are comparable to the education that is delivered as Le Cordon Bleu provides an international certification to study and work anywhere in the world.” While Australia’s chefs have always arisen out of public institutions like TAFEs, it seems the culinary industry’s needs are changing. Today’s chefs are cooks, managers, businessmen and entrepreneurs and their skills are not confined to the walls of a kitchen. Le Cordon Bleu at least is cooking up graduates that are attuned these needs and equipped with their own artistic flair. The next batch of Tony Bilsons and Paul Bocuses are well on their way and there are plenty of others in the making. The next batches have the ingredients of a great chef; skills, knowledge, practice and passion and the method in which they are mixed can be found in Le Cordon Bleu recipes. FCI
Quality, style and comfort for chefs
For sales enquiries contact Peter Kirlew 0401 673 299 | peter@ducksnpork.com www.ducksnpork.com
AUSTRALIA’S CULINARY TRADE MAGAZINE
www.foodcompanion.com.au
Crème de la crème. Par excellence. Pièce de résistance. Now you’re talking our language. Graduates of Le Cordon Bleu become part of a culinary tradition of excellence and earn the recognition that comes with being a real Cordon Bleu. As a graduate you will have earned a diploma that will differentiate you from the rest in a demanding and ever-changing industry. The Le Cordon Bleu Sydney Culinary Arts Institute offers a complete range of training programs in pastry and cuisine techniques for professionallyorientated students and gourmet cooks, as well as continuing education courses. The entrepreneurial spirit of Le Cordon Bleu resonates throughout the world spanning some 15 countries with 30 international schools. North America, France, Great Britain, Spain, Japan, Korea, Asia Pacific, Australia, the Middle East and South America. www.lecordonbleu.com.au australia@cordonbleu.edu
SUMMER 2009 RRP $6.95