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Executive Chefs Club Behind the scenes
FUNKY RECIPES by celebrity chefs Peter Kuruvita Simon Bryant Matthew Kemp
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Kangaroo
The height of enjoyment Inside:
Turkish Airlines
Lounge Istanbul
Peter Kuruvita, Island Feast, SBS
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YOUNG GUNS
Left to right: • Colin Fassnidge - Four in Hand, 4Fourteen, Paddington Arms, Sydney • Stewart Wesson - Public, Adelaide • Richard Ousby - S. Pellegrino & Acqua Panna Young Chef of the Year 2012 • Daniel Wilson - Huxtable & Huxtaburger, Melbourne • Damian Heads - Pony, Brisbane & Sydney • Analiese Gregory - Quay, Sydney • Don Hancey - Panorama Catering, Perth • Raymond Capaldi - Hare & Grace, Melbourne • Richard Ptacnik - Otto, Sydney
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What makes a PorkStar? (a) A culinary leader with a serious passion for pork (b) The ability to cook exquisite pork dishes by instinct, from fine dining to bistro fare (c) A chef whose pork creations always have diners’ salivating (d) A love of the pig from nose to tail and everything in between We reckon it’s, (e) All of the above and then some! Be a PorkStar and get some pork on your menu. www.porkstar.com.au NBW00137
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AUTUMN 2014
CONTENTS
8 38
99
TRAVEL
NEWS FOOD PEOPLE
8 Sri Lanka suits me to a T
24 Clips from Sri Lanka
Report
18 Things to see and do in Sri Lanka
38 Clips from Turkey 44 Clips from Australia
26 The Etihad Family Report
32 Things to see and do in
EPICUREAN
Abu Dhabi
36 96 Roo Secrets Revealed 110 All Stars Produce 112 Chicken Coup 117 Meat of the matter 118 Stellar culinary community 122 Go Go Gault Millaut
52 Sweet Cheeses at Glass RECIPES 64 Calm Cuisine INTERVIEWS 68 Future in Good Hands 36 Eyup Yonosglu, 129 Peter Kuruvita 70 Potty about Pepper Marti Hotel, Istanbul Love cake 72 Executive Fest at Park Hyatt 51 John T. Bailey, 171 Drew Bolton Tamar Valley Pantry, Coal roasted 'paroo' 74 Palate Pacifier Tasmania kangaroo strip loin 76 Ice Werner 102 Matthew Kemp 53 Joe Pavlovich, 81 High Coffee Patagonian toothfish Glass Brasserie 82 Compliments to the Chef 199 Simon Bryant 66 Lily Newton Lemon myrtle spiced 88 Cuisine adventurers grilled 'paroo' 67 Patrice Falantin, kangaroo fillet Sofitel, Brisbane 86 Preppers always prosper 4 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
32 69 James Barrett,
Glebe Point Diner
69 Nick Gardener,
(ex-Tetsuyas)
70 Drew Bolton,
Baroque
78 James Mussak,
Great Chefs of Australia
80 Tamas Pamer,
Intercontinental, Sydney
86 Oswin Ribeiro,
Radisson BLU, Sydney
111 Carl Middleton,
Hilton, Sydney
112 Mina Souris 116 Uwe Habermehl 120 Andy North,
The Star, Sydney
121 Stephen Wright,
Al Qasr, Jumeirah, Dubai
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Inside:
16 PAGES ON SPICY SRI LANKA
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Celebrate samphire
Foodball
Move over Socceroos it’s the Cheferoos
Oysters
Turkey with Christine Manfield and Andrew Clark
Young guns in the Park Hyatt kitchen
Greekalicious
A Food Lover's Guide
Greek cooking: it’s organic and good for you
Gonul Paksoy’s Turkish baked gypsy bonito wrapped with spring onions and tomato peel
Christine Manfield’s NZ king salmon sashimi, pickled seaweed and samphire
Refrain from grain
Gönül Paksoy’s squid stuffed with aubergine
Green pass for beef on grass
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1300 OLIVE & LEARN
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WAREWASHING REPORT Top flight tucker The full cycle on dishwashers and hygiene The height of enjoyment
Turkey
Recipes
Keep a of cold steel Great ideas from Comfort chicken happy: Interlude Restaurant
Chefs and their ergonomic and knives eat a turkey Universal
Kangaroo
Skippy skips the menu for some top chefs
Plus
A chef goes along to a beer class
The magazine read by chefs and epicureans
Highly commended “Best Professional Food Journal” THE VITTORIA FOOD WRITERS' AWARDS 2001 An initiative of the Food Media Club Australia Inc.
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www.foodcompanion.com.au WHO'S WHO AT FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL EDITOR/PUBLISHER :: Mel Nathan ADVERTISING/MARKETING :: Mel Nathan ART DIRECTOR :: Johanna Klaus | info@4xample.com.au SOCIAL SNAPPER :: Bill Ranken PHOTOGRAPHERS :: Don Arnold, Felix Halter, Shane Fenton, Bree Hutchins TRAVEL CORRESPONDENT TURKEY:: Sevil Oren TRAVEL CORRESPONDENT SRI LANKA:: Sarath Mataraarachchi CONTRIBUTORS Simon Bryant Matthew Kemp Peter Kuruvita Damien Pignolet Peter Howard Darren Ho Will Temple
Bree Hutchins Drew Bolton Werner Kimmeringer Westerly Isbaih Rachithri Fernandopulle Venessa Barnes Amila Perera
Gary Johnson Tamas Pamer Sri Lanka Tea Board ChopinMysaucepan Neeli Goonetilleka Nissanka Petiyagoda Lunch Magazine
The opinions and views of the writers are not necessarily those of the publisher. Material appearing in Food Companion International is copyright and reproduction in whole or in part without express permission from the Editor is prohibited. All rights reserved. © SYDNEY OFFICE Food Companion International Level 9, Park House, 187 Macquarie Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Australia DIRECT:: 0413 616 683 FACSIMILE:: +61 2 9223 7761 FCI magazine is available from selected newsagents throughout Australia as well as direct subscription and is an online magazine. For all Editorial or Marketing/Advertising enquiries please contact Mel Nathan on:: mel@foodcompanion.com.au
EDITOR'S NOTE
W
elcome to this very special issue of Food Companion International, now in our 14th year of publication. We created this journal for busy epicureans and chefs, selected for their creativity and contributions to the culinary scene, and willingness to share their passion of good food. FCI has a knack for spotting opportunities and talent. We use our intuition and knowledge of the food world to keep you informed. FCI organised some lively get togethers for this edition which attracted a broad cross section of chefs, producers and purveyors. From these events we give you real-life advice from successful and accomplished chefs who have “made it”. On an international level, Australian chefs have always enjoyed learning from other cultures around the world, in Oz we have the best produce to play with. In Travel Companion we look at the translation of different cuisines throughout the Middle East, Sri Lanka and Turkey, talking to chefs here and overseas about what they know. We have kicked off the season with comprehensive reports on cook offs and food festivals around the world including; Bocuse D’OR, Abu Dhabi Gourmet, International Istanbul Gastronomy and Sydney Fine Foods. We’ve provided a comprehensive report on a Diamond First Class flight to Abu Dhabi with Etihad Airways. In Sri Lanka visiting recently I caught the Ceylon tea bug. Me, a traditional tea drinker all my life, who not only likes tea for its rich flavour and taste but because it offers such excellent health benefits and at my stage in life – I am now recommending Ceylon tea to all my industry friends. At FCI we have increased the number of chefs and writers to bring you the latest from the food world. And because most of the future trends are not just happening in regional areas, we are travelling around Sydney mostly to bring you the best food news. This time we’re talking Kangaroo with “Roo secrets revealed at the Executive Chefs Club.” Do check out pages 96-100 where “A Cook and a Chefs” Simon Bryant has provided his feedback on cooking with the meat plus a sumptuous recipe. Designed for busy people, we hope this journal will give you a laugh and make your day an easier one, based on the stories on the local and international scene. I hope you enjoy our future editions and the range of subjects that we cover because variety is the spice of a culinary persons life! Culinary regards
Mel Nathan
ON THE COVER “My Sri Lanka with Peter Kuruvita” combines breathtaking scenery with spectacular spicy fare as he travels across the country, experiencing the wealth of Sri Lanka’s beauty, culture and culinary diversity. Peter Kuruvita, Island Feast, SBS
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In the land of vegetables and spices, it’s the avocado that reigns supreme 6 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
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SRI LANKA SUITS ME TO A
T
You only have a week and you want to acquaint yourself with Sri Lanka. What do you do? Here’s how the week unfolded writes Mel Nathan.
Sigiriya, The Lion rock is one of Asia’s major archaeological sites in Sri Lanka. It was used as a Buddhist monastery until the 14th century.
8 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Sr
iL
an
ka
.. a
la n d li ke
o
th
RI LANKA, THE WONDER OF ASIA, has all the hallmarks of becoming the world’s best new tourist destination.
e r.
S
no
Progressing beyond the conflict that affected the country for so many years, tourism is now looking so strong and maybe it’s time to book the holiday. We can expect tourists and visiting chefs, not short on creativity, to be challenged to a greater extent for the years to come - which is why Lonely Planet called it “Best country to visit in 2013.” And more big news, a massive Las Vegas-style Casino resort with a minimum of 400 rooms is on its way for Colombo, a US$ 350 million investment by Australian casino mogul James Packer. Wait
SRI LANKAN LOVE CAKE
for it, and luxury hotel giant Shangri-La will soon construct a new 7 star
RECIPE BY PETER KURUVITA
hotel on Colombo’s beachfront and another in Ambalantota located in
Makes approx 30 bite-sized pieces or 1 cake
the south east region to promote its high end tourism. Virtually closed to the world for 30 years, the government has reached a decision to open up more and more government land for tourism and the investment dollars are streaming in. Sri Lanka has been voted as one of the top 5 emerging tourist destinations in the world says the World Travel Market’s industry 2012 (WTM) report.
You will often spot the serene sight of Buddhists in their bright-orange robes and sandals, calmly walking through temples all over the country to worship Lord Buddha... The charm of travelling around Sri Lanka relies on overland journeys, entailing several big drives often on rough roads. I travelled to many different corners (over 1500km) experiencing a range of different tastes in sprawling seaside retreats, romantic hideaways and old world indulgences. Combined with an extra 10,000 English tourists (including the “Barmy Army”) in the country for the series test match, there was never a dull moment. Tourists who visit Sri Lanka don’t always spend too much time in the old colonial-style capital of Colombo, preferring instead the sandy beaches around Hikkaduwa to the south, or the cool mountain air of Kandy. I enjoyed discovering ancient cities, religious sites, tea gardens and tea factories on the North West coast and mingling with peasants and farmers in the North Central Province. Sri Lanka holds a special charm for any visitor, and when you come to visit
INGREDIENTS • 125g soft unsalted butter • 125g fine semolina • 10 egg yolks • 150g caster sugar • 150g pumpkin preserve • 1 tablespoon rosewater • 1 tablespoon honey • ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg • ¼ teaspoon lemon rind • ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon METHOD • Preheat the oven to 150degrees C (300F/Gas 2) • Place the butter and semolina in a bowl and stir until well combined. • Lightly whisk and combine the egg yolks and sugar until egg is thoroughly mixed through, then add the semolina mixture and combine well. • Add the remaining ingredients and combine well. • Divide the batter among silicon petit four moulds or spoon into mini muffin moulds. • Bake for 8 minutes or until the tops are golden. • Alternatively, to make one large cake, pour the batter into a greased and baking paper-lined 6cm (2 ½ inch) deep 25 x 50 cm (10 x 20 inch) cake tin and bake for 30 minutes or until the top is golden and a skewer comes out clean. • Allow the cakes to cool slightly in moulds or tin, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. E ‘Recipe and image from My Sri Lankan Kitchen, Serendip by Peter Kuruvita, published by Murdoch Books’
the tear drop island, you have to like cricket and of course drinking tea. FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 9
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The island population of 22 million boasts an astonishing variety of food styles woven into a rich tapestry of regional and indigenous dishes. More than just curry and rice, Sri Lanka’s multi-ethnic population ensures culinary variety, no matter which chef you speak to. Eating my way around Sri Lanka for a week, I could sample the influences of Malaysian, Indian, Portuguese, Dutch and British cuisine. Each one reflects a different stage in the country’s complex past. The greatest accomplishments of Sri Lankan cuisine are its vegetable dishes, delicate pastry appetisers, silky braised eggplant, plump tomatoes stuffed with fruits and grains which all provide evidence of a deep respect for their produce. Vegetarians thinking of visiting Sri Lanka will be in a food heaven! It was truly a great opportunity to visit - beyond anything I might have imagined. Lucky and exciting for their local chefs, who have ginormous opportunities to gain recognition for themselves and their cuisine on the world stage, watch this space. There are many Buddhist temples, shrines, and Buddha statues scattered throughout the island. When travelling through the country you will often spot the serene sight of Buddhists in their bright-orange robes and sandals, calmly walking through temples all over the country to worship Lord Buddha and to reaffirm their commitment to follow the path shown by him. Sri Lanka has been a Buddhist country for the past 2300 years, with the longest continuous history of Buddhism of any Buddhist nation. Buddhists believe that everything in this world is subject to change and people are reborn from one life to another until they reach a status known as ‘Nirvana’. An ideal state where one can liberate the cycles of death and rebirth. Something one can learn when touring, it will broaden the mind, touch your heart and restore the soul.
Ceylon Cinnamon. The sweet fragrant spice that has held me forever in its exotic spell... Promoting the Sri Lankan identity, designer Senaka de Silva. De Silva’s designs have graced catwalks in Oman, Abu Dhabi, Rome, Brussels and Amsterdam for over 35 years. Sri Lankan Tourist Bureau’s Rohan Pathirana with Mel Nathan, Food Companion International at the EXPO, at BMICH.
Spice trade bazaar at expo
S
RI LANKA EXPO gave me access to a tantalising array of exports with true and unique Sri Lankan flavour, starting with three broad spectrums; food, agriculture and textiles. Rohan (my guide) said: “We’ll kick start off the morning with a strong cup of Sri Lankan tea, then try to keep up with the cricket scores ... England are in town playing Sri Lanka.” “Wow... it doesn’t get better than this, I like both tea and cricket!” This mega trade exhibition comprised a unique combination of an international exhibition, symposium, business meetings, networking sessions, seminars, cultural events and fashion shows galore. Visitors were given access to the best of Sri Lankan export products under one roof spanning agriculture and fisheries, industrial products and services. Over 10,000 locals visited the exhibition and on offer were access to new markets, thanks to the EDB or Export Development Board, which created an exclusive and yet comprehensive range of goods to some attractive international markets. A highlight of my tour. Being in the right place at the right time and meeting textile, craft and fashion designer Senake de Silva. De Silva’s forte is purely Sri Lankan because he uses only local fabrics such as batiks, handlooms crochet and beeralu lace, hand painted fabrics and traditional embroidery. 10 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
His creations gave me a glimpse of how Sri Lanka’s multi-ethnic cultures work – he travels regularly to small provinces where he helps local weavers market their handloom fabrics abroad, including tips on colour and design concepts. I enjoyed being taken on a journey with his saree designs and shawl concepts, which were highlighted at the expo. I was lucky to see His Excellency Mahinda Rajapaksa, The President of the Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka at the ceremonial opening. Then it was off to visit De Silva & Sons over in Hall C to see and discuss the interest I’ve always had for Ceylon Cinnamon. The sweet fragrant spice that has held me forever in its exotic spell. “But Mel, harvest time isn’t for a few more months, but do come to our head office near Galle to see how we process it.”
The warm, woody spice that, when whole, resembles a single rolled layer of soft brown crumbly bark. This is the “true” cinnamon whose subtle aroma is faintly perfumed with citrus and clove, and whose flavour is both sweet and mildly astringent.
Sri Lankans say if you are not eating anything just chew on a piece of cinnamon...
Barking up the right tree
S
RI LANKANS SAY if you are not eating anything just chew on a piece of cinnamon. Cinnamon quills form the basic item – which is the platform
for its massive export trade and Sri Lanka enjoys a global market share of 80% today. Ceylon cinnamon has been hailed as the “true cinnamon” and sourced from the native plant Cinnamomum zeylanicum and is rather unknown to most people and chefs. In the United States and parts of Asia, what the majority of
HOW HARVESTING WORKS
us have been buying from the supermarket and grocery stores and consuming
1 Skilled workers carefully peel the bark to expose the inner bark of young trees. 2 Wash cinnamon trees twice in large purified water tanks. 3 Take the washed trees into peeling stations. 4 Scrape off the outer layer of the tree with special knife. After peeling, the bark is formed and is rolled into the form of quills, this helps in the rolls storage and transportation. 5 Layout the peeled cinnamon in the drying area approximately for about 2 hours. 6 Take the dried cinnamon to filling stations. 7 Join and fill cinnamon into long sticks. 8 Dry Cinnamon Sticks for approximately two weeks inside on drying shelves.
is actually not the real cinnamon but Cassia cinnamon, which comes from a different plant called Cinnamomum cassia, also known as Chinese cinnamon and it’s mostly cultivated in China, Vietnam and Indonesia. Cinnamon shavings can also be used for aromatic burning coils - these are slow burning coils and they give out a nice fragrance as they burn. Trees can be harvested from six years old, to a height of 10-15 metres with a girth of about 30-50cm. Once it has been harvested and cut, the re-growth only takes another 4 years to harvest again. Farmers harvest the cinnamon twice a year, immediately following rainy seasons. Smaller shoots are cut first. They are covered and left to ferment for a short time, then the outer bark is stripped off. The softer, inner bark is rubbed down, then peeled away from the twig. During the processing stages, workers stack several layers of bark and allow them to curl into one another to form “quills” or cinnamon sticks. Ceylon cinnamon quills will resemble a tightly rolled cigar once dried. The lower portion of the cinnamon tree, where the bark is older and more flavourful is scrapped down to become ground cinnamon.
HEALTH BENEFITS
• Freshens breath • Provides relief for minor toothache pain • Shown promise in helping diabetics keep blood sugar level • Helps with circulation and blood flow • An aphrodisiac. FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 11
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Craft of Kuruvita
K
URUVITA WHO STUDIED at culinary school in Sydney from a very young age
cooked by taste and memory, never a recipe. Kuruvita has worked in some of the world’s best kitchens; Roux Brothers at the Waterside
has lived through a range of rich cultures
Inn, Bray, Blue Water Grill with Neil Perry,
and has childhood memories filled with
Barrenjoey House with Michael McMahon,
the collaborative influences of his Austrian
Circular Quay with Tony Bilson and some
mother and Sri Lankan father. Kuruvita has a
luxury hotels including, Hayman Island, Four
way with words and has a message for future
Seasons, Philadelphia, USA, Kapu Kapu
young chefs: “Set your goals and charge
Barong Resort, Bali, Lord Howe Island and
towards them and don’t let anything get in
not to forget the iconic Flying Fish, a restored
the way. Also keep your eyes and ears open.
heritage site set on a finger wharf in Sydney’s
If it’s not for you, get out and don’t waste
Pyrmont since its birth in 2004, and Fiji’s
everyone’s time.” Kuruvita’s father taught him
Sheraton Resort. He currently leads a busy
about passion, his mother taught him the
schedule consulting to some of Australia’s up
love of pastries, and his grandmother always
and coming restaurants.
Kuruvita has now moved into the world of television presenting including; My Sri Lanka, Lifestyle Food and TV hit series Master Chef and Ambassador and Real High Tea judge for Dilmah tea...
Kuruvita’s spinach and dahl curry
12 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Kuruvita’s Love Cake. Recipe and Image from My Sri Lankan Kitchen, Serendip by Peter Kuruvita, published by Murdoch Books Recipe page 9
Mastering love cake writes Neeli Goonetilleka
A
CAKE WHOSE name possibly suggests intoxicating, aphrodisiaclike ingredients is one of Sri Lanka’s most popular sweets. It is prepared for special occasions, like the traditional Sinhalese and Tamil New Year, birthdays, weddings or at any time of the year when a celebration is near. It contains a heady mix of cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom combined with sweet rose water, honey and an abundance of cashew nuts to create the most deliciously sweet and nutty cake with just a hint of spice. Biting into the cake’s firm exterior you will notice the slightly chewy and fragrant centre, an ambrosial experience. The love cake was introduced during Portuguese times (1505-1658) in Sri Lanka (previously Ceylon). The term 'love cake' was coined purely because the cake was a labour of love. But the origin of its name is still unclear and some suggest an endearing Portuguese story.
A cake whose name possibly suggests intoxicating, aphrodisiac-like ingredients is one of Sri Lanka’s most popular sweets...
Sweet smell of success writes Sarath Mataraarachchi
I
T WAS HARM VANDER HOBAN from Holland who was the original pioneer of the Hansa Ceylon Coffee brand in Sri Lanka who created the cottage industry it is today – through some assistance he received from a seed grant on an Integrated Rural Development Project. Hoban had every intentions to pump life into the Sri Lankan coffee industry, which was virtually non-existent at the time. Hansa was then born in the 80’s Hoban then handed over the baton to Lawrence Goldberg, an American organic farmer from Seattle and the University of Washington, USA. Due to Goldberg’s constant effort to promote the brand - it is now world renowned and known for its special quality of taste, depth and its organic nature. Aficionados, who visit the Bohemian Coffee House on Fife Road, are rarely disappointed. Unlike any other coffees in the world - the coffee here is grown in forest and Seattle born Lawrence home gardens, hand-picked and Goldberg, founder and coffee roaster of Hansa processed by rural men and women
dedicated to organic farming. Goldberg, always the organic farmer from way back, has always been fascinated by Sri Lankan sustainable agricultural practices, and is committed to bringing back Sri Lanka’s coffee to the former glory it once was. In the 1850s Sri Lanka exported coffee to most parts of the world and in quantity was second to Brazil, back in the days when connoisseurs compared Sri Lanka coffee with Ethiopia. Goldberg’s eyes often light up when describing his affection and respect for the gentle and nature loving workers. Goldberg is also promoting Sri Lanka’s inheritance of eco agriculture which doesn’t include pesticides or chemical fertilisers. The famous Indian coffee taster, Mrs Menon of Mukilteo Coffee Roasting Company ranked Hansa coffee high – and most unique. Goldberg has a roasting method to suit the inconsistent nature of the coffee collected from village producers. The beans come from a variety of species in a variety of sizes and with the innovative method of roasting to make Hansa Ceylon Coffee a unique brand. He encourages farmers to look after and enrich the biodiversity of plants and to strive towards the fair trade relationship. Goldberg sits there proud with the foresight not to exploit the farmers. For more information about Hansa Coffee go to: www.srilankancoffee.com
Hansa Ceylon Coffee 24 Fife Road, Colombo, Sri Lanka Tel: 011-2584832 (Export enquiries) hansacoffee@gmail.com
Ceylon Coffee
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When the mercury rises, there’s no better place to entertain with a High Tea outdoors. Merril J. Fernando and Peter Kuruvita enjoy a cup of Ceylon tea.
Dilmah tea plays perfect blend at Sydney’s Langham Hotel
Executive Chef Anthony Craven
I’ll be watching you were the ominous words to then Bilson’s head chef Peter Kuruvita when he first met Sri Lankan tea tycoon, Merrill J. Fernando, writes Amila Perera...
T
Good mates. Merrill J. Fernando with Leon Fink enjoying the afternoon.
WENTY ODD YEARS LATER, and the pair are ambassadors for internationally renowned tea brand Dilmah as well as Fernando’s social enterprise project, the MJF Charitable Foundation. Together they led an excited group of Sydney gourmands, food bloggers and culinary élite at the Langham Hotel in raising a cuppa to winners of the second annual Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge in Sydney. The judging panel of chefs Peter Kuruvita, Bernd Uber and Dilmah’s marketing director and son of MJF, Dilhan C. Fernando, saw a 200% increase in entrants from the inaugural competition, but also found their first perfect 100.The perfect score belonged to Kittea Kelsey in the consumer division, while Doddy Lesmana 14 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
“..winners are grinners” Kittea Kelsey at the Langham High Tea.
and Michael Nicolaou of Novotel Sydney took out the professional division with their Middle Eastern inspired menu. Lesmana and Nicolaou matched Dilmah’s Brilliant Breakfast Tea to a Candied Spiced Pickled Fruit and Vegetable salad with strawberry, watermelon and a Persian feta macaroon. A sparkling version of the t-series Rose and French Vanilla was paired alongside Ceylon tea-poached quail breast with candied watermelon rind, olives and rose jelly. Judging criteria included contestants’ knowledge, inclusion and correct preparation of the central ingredient – tea – as well as presentation, pairing, and use of local ingredients. We think Dilmah tea is about to get a whole lot hotter.
Tea pluckers at work Bernd Uber (in background) with Dilmah’s Dilhan Fernando. Some tea estate workers still carry wicker baskets but many now use the less picturesque nylon bags, near Nuwara Eliya.
If your tea could speak, it would ask for cup of Dilmah’s Nuwara Eliya Pekoe tea.
Coconut trees on a picturesque Sri Lankan beach. Arrack is prepared from the sap of the coconut.
A frabjous day for Arrack writes (Peti) Nissanka Petiyagoda. Westminster Hall has been used for a fascinating variety of ceremonies and events since its construction in 1097 including the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee lunch.
Tea fit for Her Majesty writes Sarath Mataraarachchi
W
HEN TALKING ABOUT CEYLON TEA, it is hard not to
talk about the land where the best tea in the world is grown. No tea in the world can match its flavour, character or aroma. It also comes as no surprise that Ceylon tea was served up on the dining table at last year’s Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Lunch at London’s famous Westminster Hall, sharing the eminence along with some of the world’s greatest wines. Black tea is ideal for mental relaxation, something we all yearn for in our modern lives. Tea contains thianine which works with a small content of caffeine in tea to produce alertness, so we can perform tasks faster and with more accuracy, making tea the ideal drink suited to our modern demanding life styles. Scientists have recently discovered that when we consume tea, thianine contained in tea is absorbed and transported directly to the brain where it stimulates alpha brain waves – the waves that indicate that we are in an alert but relaxed state. Visit a tea room next time you’re in Sri Lanka and find out. Choose between a city location or in a tea factory surrounded by picturesque tea fields up in the mountains, it will be an unforgettable experience. We now know that red wine and black tea share a lot more than a dining table in London’s Westminster Hall, and don’t miss the opportunity of a life time to sip the best tea in the world and the best Australian red wine. Cabernets, shiraz’s, merlots and much more have all found their way into many top restaurants in Sri Lanka today.
A
RRACK SPELT WITH A ‘C’ is authentic. Called by ‘tipplers’ “old stuff”. Its history is as old as Sri Lanka. Britain was importing Arrack called huraca, through Genoese merchants prior to the first record of ‘’bolls” of barley for Scotch in 1494. Arrack is prepared from the sap of the Coconut flower. (When fermented this sap is called toddy). Toddy is distilled in Pot and Patent stills. The fore-shots and tailings are discarded the ‘middle –cut’ matured in teak and Halmilla vats is bottled. The first licensed distillery was opened in 1924 by Rockland awarded the International LEED medal in 2011 in London. Probably the world’s first Green certified Distillery [LEED (Gold Certificate) was awarded in April 2012]. Rockland Arrack is exported and you will find it on the menu in Harvey Nichols in Regent Street and at the Mandarin Oriental Knightsbridge where in their best-selling cocktail Orient Express a coffee infused Rockland Ceylon Arrack can be experienced. Arrack with ‘king coconut’ or with ‘thambili’ (in vernacular) water is my absolute favourite. Unmixed its gentle floral aromas, hints of coconut and honey brings in the adoring crowds. Next time you’re in London, make sure you drop into the Callooh Callay Bar which was voted as World’s best Cocktail Menu in 2012 - there are two Ceylon Arrack cocktails to be tried. www.calloohcallaybar.com FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 15
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Ceylon Tea
From the paradise island of Sri Lanka WORDS BY CEYLON TEA BOARD
S
RI LANKA produces a whopping 330 million kilos of tea, accounting for 9% of the world’s production. Most of its tea, making it the world’s third largest exporter after Kenya and China. It has a market share of 18 % globally. The strength of Sri Lanka’s tea lies however, not merely in the volume of production, but also in its superior quality and taste. Tea thrives on sloping terrain, and is grown in Sri Lanka in the central highlands and southern inland foothills, at various elevations. Much of the black tea produced in Sri Lanka is by orthodox process. Further Sri Lanka is the world's largest producer and exporter of orthodox black teas. The plucking of tea leaves is done only manually, to make certain that only the unopened leaf bud and two leaves are plucked to guarantee the quality and taste of tea. Sri 16 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Lanka also produces a small quantity of CTC (cut, tear and curl) teas and Green tea, instant tea and organic teas. Sri Lanka produces tea to suit every pallet and this has remained the hallmark of the country’s tea industry. It is the topography of the hill country, with undulating grounds, that brings about diversity to tea. The tea bush, soil, altitude, climatic changes, wind velocity and seasons all play their part in infusing the varying degrees of quality into tea. It is so sensitive to atmospheric changes that day-to-day weather changes leave their impression on the quality of the tea. Over the years, the country has earned a reputation as a producer of high quality tea and Ceylon Tea is synonymous with quality and taste. We export a large quantity of tea packets and tea bags to add value to its tea, more than any other tea producing country in the world.
The value added tea exports account for nearly 45% of the total export volume. Ceylon Tea is exported in a wide range of packets box board cartons, foil packs, soft wooden boxes, metal cans, ceramic jars and even wooden boxes. Ceylon tea reaches approximately 150 countries globally. At present Middle Eastern countries and Gulf region absorbs over 50% of tea exports from Sri Lanka. Since the early 1990s, the Russian Federation and CIS countries emerged as major buyers of Ceylon Tea and that region purchases around 25% of all exports. During days gone by, when the Australian tea market was dominated with loose tea packets “Ceylon Tea” had an edge over all other origins. The introduction of tea bags by the multi-nationals resulted in a gradual shift for multi origin blends with Indonesian and Papua New Guinea since 1980s. Sri Lanka still maintains a 25% share and is second only to India in quantity terms. The popularity of 'Dilmah' brand from Sri Lanka is mainly attributed to the strong position of Ceylon Tea followed by other Sri Lankan brands namely Akbar, Natures Cuppa Jaf, Mlesna and Impra. The ‘Lion Logo’ appearing on Ceylon tea packs tells you not only the country of origin but also the quality. Next time when you’re choosing a tea in Australia, we hope its Ceylon Tea from Sri Lanka! For more information go to www.pureceylontea.com
One of the calmest places in Sri Lanka is to visit an ayurvedic resort… just simply relaxing!
< Gotu kola, is one of the
most important herbs in Ayurveda’s botanical medicine chest. Bitter, pungent and sweet tastes that have a cooling effect on the body.
Secret to long life is elementary cooking writes Chef Chee Kwong Ho Dominic Sansoni, owner of Barefoot Café in Colombo and photographer based in Sri Lanka www.threeblindmen.com
Visiting the café?
B
AREFOOT GARDEN CAFE is located at the back of the famous Barefoot Gallery founded by Sri Lankan artist extraordinaire Barbara Sansoni. Whilst Sansoni is now taking a back seat, her son Dominic Sansoni is continuing on with the legacy with his artistic prowess. Barefoot is a classy lunch venue for discerning tourists and local diners. The café and its surroundings match the rich vibrant colours and patterns inside of the Barefoot Gallery and provide a unique culinary and shopping experience you won’t forget. LOCATIONS • 706 Galle Road, Colombo 3, Sri Lanka. • 41 Pedlar Street, Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka. • Dutch Hospital, Fort, Colombo 1, Sri Lanka. www.barefootceylon.com
OF THE MOST TRADITIONAL cooking methods are SOME renowned staples with the older generation of women in Sri Lanka. They not only understand what varieties of spice, herbs and vegetables to use, but also what human beings require for their own nutritional palate. An elderly Sri Lankan vegetable purveyor who is over 60 years of age may tell you that it’s a bit like having a formula in their head for how recipes should taste based on the ‘Five elements’. They will tell you it’s all about what you consumed from your younger days and it’s in your blood stream – and when you get to 40 to 50 you need to make another plan for how to stay healthy. These are some of the mistakes we make in life when we are younger, some people never think about it. It’s our attitudes towards life that matter. Looking at spices and herbs that are grown in your own country of origin and if there were any chemicals required to grow vegetables is always a sign. There are people living over 90 to 100 years old in Sri Lanka who have found out where the secret lies; it’s up to you about what you consume and how you get along with your life. For example with ayurvedic cooking, Sri Lankans use particular types of herbs and vegetables for a morning breakfast meal. I have a mother-in-law who is 90 and is consuming a diet involving ayurvedic cooking. There are so many programs on television I see about healthy food. Times are changing and some of the best hotels you visit in Sri Lanka serve ayurvedic drinks and now there are ayurvedic resorts. FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 17
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THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN SRI LANKA WORDS BY MEL NATHAN
Ministry of Crab
Colombo Street Food You have to lean forward from your waist to avoid dripping sauce on your clothes; a portrait of me eating my way through Colombo. Hunting for the best roadside cuisine including; ‘Annasi’ pieces of the sweetest pineapple sprinkled with chili and salt on a stick. Afterwards try the ‘Isso Wadai’ a deep fried lentil patty with a prawn served on top with roasted chick peas or peanuts. Roti’s and Hopper’s with fresh chili sambal, are popular. So tasty! Colombo has cleaned up the way street vendors are serving their food, sometimes as good as food from a 5 star hotel.
Feast on some of the world’s best crabs here. It’s a serious business and the atmosphere is marvellous. The crabs are prepared under the famous chef Dharshan Munidasa. One of the owners is also the Chef/ owner of Restaurant Nihonbashi. He runs TV shows in Colombo and Japan on Japanese cooking – and if you’re lucky, you may run into the other co-owners..the famous Sri Lankan cricket duo Mahela Jayawardane and Kumar Sangakkara.
Old Dutch Hospital Precinct A restored hospital and one of the best of its kind from 17th century Asia. It is a marvel of Dutch architecture by award-winning Heritage Architect Ashley de Vos. Providing a façade for some of the most exciting restaurants in Sri Lanka, including the famous Ministry of Crab.
Aukana Buddha Statue A Sinhalese taste sensation. ‘Kokis’ a traditional Sinhalese sweet made from rice flower and coconut milk in a mould and then deep-fried afterwards.
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The perfect and elegant 12m-high standing Buddha is adored all over the island to such an extent, that several full scale copies have been erected in 4 areas on the island.
Master Chef Dr. T. Publis Silva needs no introduction, he is a household name and known as the man who introduced gourmet cuisine in the country.
Mount Lavinia Hotel - the iconic British Colonial theme hotel located on Colombo's breathtaking beachfront.
Colombo City, Festivals and Chefs This city always seems to excite me and there’s plenty to be excited about because Sri Lanka has more public holidays than anywhere else in the world. Visit here in May to experience one of the biggest festivals ever - the celebration of Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and passing away. Colombo
August, it is time to watch the world famous ‘Esa la Perehara’ the annual celebratory procession of the sacred Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha in Kandy. A farm-to-table experience you will not forget at Mount Lavinia Hotel’s Organic and Green Buffet Lunch held on every Paya Day in the Governors Restaurant. Their brochure reads; ‘Eating healthy boosts vitality and energy, and proves clear skin and less sick days. Healthy nutrients also give
Publis woos ‘em!
has always been the melting pot of all four religious cultures that flourish in the country
the best chance for good health and in an
Chef Publis also appears in a weekly radio show where he and a doctor talk about food and good health. The affable 74-year-old chef is proud of his over 40 years of culinary skills. Needing no introduction; this chef is a household name and known as the man who introduced gourmet cuisine to Sri Lanka. He joined the iconic Mount Lavinia Hotel in 1956. I first read about him in an article in an in-flight magazine on my way to Sri Lanka. This versatile chef has not restricted himself to just tcooking, he has also published books based on cooking. There are three generations of chefs in his family including his son. The hotel was once the former residence of the British Governor and maintains the flavour of the British rule era. An established colonial hotel, you can hear the breaking waves from your room, and at sunset walk along the private beach with panoramic views of the West Coast and the Indian Ocean with the lights of Colombo in the far left corner.
- Buddhists, Muslims, Hindus and Christians
increasingly polluted world.’ They guarantee
all have their own festivals yet everyone plays
organic vegetables at all times, and they are
a role together. The most common holiday
home to one of Sri Lanka’s most celebrated
is ‘Paya Day’ which occurs every full moon.
Master Chefs, Dr. T. Publis Silva - or Chef
Every Paya Day has a religious significance. In
Publis as the locals say.
Elephant Orphanage at Pinnawala See feeding and bathing of one of the biggest captive elephant herds in the world. There are 88 elephants in the park. I enjoyed stroking a baby elephant, the washing of the elephants in the river then walking with the elephants through the shops! It is worthwhile finding a comfortable seat in one of the riverside cafes, just enjoy the panoramic views and a photo opportunity is not to be missed.
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Sinhalese Sports Club
Cricket and religion is something that encircles everyone’s heart with cheers, joy and happiness. The headquarters of Sri Lanka Cricket, the controlling body of cricket in Sri Lanka. The ground often cited as the Lords of Sri Lanka, hosting most domestic finals and one of the preeminent international cricket venues. I saw a prominent former cricket player walking laps around the oval, which is part of an upmarket health club there.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN SRI LANKA WORDS BY MEL NATHAN
Road trips
Sri Lanka relies on overland journeys, so it mostly entails several big long drives and lots of walking. There are some new highways connecting North with South and East with West linking the new Mahinda Rajapaksa International Airport at Mattala and the deep sea port at Hambantota. Some highways are already up and running including the first ever toll road on Sri Lanka Southern Highway.
Nagambo
Sri Lanka at your service! The beach spot just out of the city of Colombo (Pegasus Reef Resort), we checked in on the last day before flying out of Colombo. An excellent hotel with A1 friendly style, I learnt it was one of Colombo's first 5 star hotels. The snacks and drinks by the swimming pool are recommended and they will organise a cricket match as well. Enjoy the Colombo city view on your far left.
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Waterfalls galore
Be exposed to the gushing sounds of the water rushing down valleys and throughout tea plantations. Nature lovers, if your camera is ready some outstanding falls are waiting to be seen. There are 51 waterfalls in Sri Lanka which are10m or more in height. They’re a great place to swim and best to visit during September-December when water levels are high.
Dambulla Rock Climbing Golden Temple of Dambulla. When visiting this place and any other temple in Sri Lanka it is important to wear the appropriate clothing. Girls, remember to wear a shirt with at least short sleeves and shorts that go over the knee or otherwise no entry. The Golden Cave Temple, after a steep walk to get there, is a cave-temple complex that dates back before the 2nd century.
Glenoch Tea Factory
On your way back drive through the lush countryside and waterfalls stop at Glenloch Tea Factory for a comfort break – I had a glimpse of how tea is really made. The machinery is quite rustic and it felt like a real working factory - the whole process was very well explained and you get shown how tea is graded. The tour was free and the guide was full of information and friendly and there is complimentary tea served at the end of it. Enjoy your tea overlooking the tea plantation and enjoy the smells of food coming from the kitchen - so tempting!
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After a hard day of sightseeing an Ayurvedic foot massage is a wonderful treatment and many hotels have a professional on site... don’t leave Sri Lanka without trying one.
Nuwaraeliya (Little England)
Situated at around 2000m above sea level, surrounded by lush tea plantations and in the heart of the tea industry, and rug up. Once a pleasure retreat of the European planters, it is just like an English town with many English style bungalows and buildings. If you stay at The Grand Hotel, take your sweater to put on and walk through the rose gardens followed by a High Tea in the Dilmah T- Bar, it’s an
‘Old worldly grandeur’ hotel. I felt I was stepping back in time, with its polished floorboards, grand ceilings, formal staff and respectful service. Nestled in one of the cosy hills of Nuwaraeliya, this hotel is the ultimate ‘one night stand’ and is great fun for a night in this fantastic highlands location. Very popular on the tour circuit. A wonderful place to arrive at after you’ve driven the long seven-hour drive from Colombo and a good escape for anyone who misses cool breezes in tropical Sri Lanka at any time of the year.
Sigiriya Rock
This is an unbelievable place. The 8th Wonder of the World, you will not believe the workmanship and the fact that a kingdom was perched here on top of a rock nearly 200 metres high. This was one of the highlights of my trip, but not for the faint hearted and not good if you are afraid of heights, there are over a thousand steps, the climb would make some people nervous. The site was selected by King Kasyapa (477 – 495 AD) for his new capital, building his palace on the top of the rock - he also built a gateway in the form of an enormous lion. The capital and the royal palace were abandoned after the king’s death. It was used as a Buddhist monastery until the 14th century. A real sense of achievement when you get to the top and great views, interesting colourful frescoes not to mention, some great exercise! FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 21
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THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN SRI LANKA WORDS BY MEL NATHAN
Temple of Tooth in Kandy
Cashew ‘Caju’ girls of Bataleeya
On the way to Kandy, in a small village I tasted the best cashews in the world – and where I met the world-renowned ‘Caju Girls’. Clad in the most vibrant colours and adorning faces with such innocent smiles, trying to lure passing tourists to stop and taste their cashews! One of the rarest and most romantic sights you will ever see. In Sri Lankan there is always something waiting to surprise you. Like the word you’ll hear a lot when you visit the ‘serendipity’. It’s a gift Sri Lanka has given to the world. Nothing is truer than this.
Kandy The Temple of the Tooth (Dalada Maligaya) is a must-see. While it can be very crowded with tourists, you are always clearly in a place of worship. As with other temples, you will need to remove your shoes. You can’t (of course) see the Tooth itself, and the first hall is crowded. The Buddhas, the artwork, the dimensions are fantastic. Also Kandy has some great Fashion Houses, it’s a shopping haven.
Jeep Safari at Minneriya National Park Is close to Habarana jungle and a popular tourist destination for safari lovers. Being an animal lover, I was totally in my element! You get a driver and a tracker (his job was to look out for the animals). Jeeps are open topped so you can stand up if you wish. I saw many different species including vultures, giant squirrels, deer, land monitor lizards, a crocodile (from afar!), herons, hyenas and of course, elephants. Luckily the driver had spotters’ knowledge of where the animals were likely to be.
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World Heritage site Polonnaruwa ruins are one of the best planned archaeological relic sites and known as one of the cleanest and more beautiful cities in Sri Lanka.
Polonnaruwa ruins Galle Fort
There are cheeky monkeys galore so take your time, but here you will see some of the best ruins in the country. If you have a guide, they will bring it all to life for you. Get some transport (car or tuk-tuk), as walking is not an option due to the size of this place, and the heat. There is much to see, even though only a small percentage of the area has been excavated.
World Heritage site covering 52 hectares. It’s a religious garden, so take your time here. I would recommend a personal guide or prior to visiting brush up about the influence of the Portuguese, Dutch and British. Overlooking the sea at one end and the Galle cricket stadium on the other. We took a leisurely walk and came across a snake charmer in an old lane, waiting to play us a tune. You could spend hours, probably days here, just soaking up the history of the old Galle, wandering the streets and peering through open doorways. Make sure you pay a rock jumper at Flag Rock - it’s brilliant, and it’s their job. The story of the fort is well illustrated by many signs and plaques, which provide information about each monument.
Galle Lighthouse, the well-known tourist attraction, boasting beautiful views of the Indian Ocean.
Yapahuwa Kingdom
Imagine the year 1273? Many traces of ancient defences can still be seen, an ornamental stairway is its biggest showpiece. On top of the rock are the remains of a stupa, a Bodhi tree enclosure, and a rock shelter cave used by Buddhist monks, indicating that earlier this site was used as a Buddhist monastery.
Bohoma isthuthuie [thank you] I would like to thank, Sri Lankan Tourism Bureau and the Consulate General of Sri Lanka in Sydney for providing this opportunity to learn and live the exotic lifestyle of food and culture in Sri Lanka. Thank you from the bottom of my heart, for the wonderful experience which I would like to re-live many times over. Rohan it was a pleasure to spend a week driving with you, and over 1500km’s we travelled. You are not only a tour guide extraordinaire but also an exemplary driver with patience and courage. You have helped countless foreign guests to visit and appreciate Sri Lanka’s many cultural and historic treasures. You were courteous, gave me perfect explanations and your thoughtful attentiveness made the tour so memorable. Sri Lanka is a paradise. The seven days I spent in this beautiful island covered an exciting range of different tastes and colours. May you all live long - “Ayubowan!”
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NEWS FOOD PEOPLE SRI LANKA
JUDGES TEA TASTING TOUR AT DILMAH HEADQUARTERS Meeting all your requirements. The Butlers at Colombo’s Kingsbury Hotel Glen Collas, Amitha Jayasinghe and Thamith Nanayakkara
BUTLER CONNECTION AT THE KINGSBURY A passionate interest in ‘service’ has now become a successful full-time career. The Kingsbury has very rapidly gained so much kudos and respect in Colombo. “It’s not a popular career, but the ones who choose our profession, can be found in only a dozen high-end Sri Lankan hotels. We are the most skilled performers and there is usually no degree or education behind the role but it’s your attitude that counts. Making people happy is our life. If we know we have made someone happy, then we are doing our jobs. Having a Butler School would be really cool. At the moment the salary is not any more than a waiter. Educating people of our profession would not only help the industry but take our profession to a whole new level. We are personal assistants to guests and not like any other waiter – you will find us here in Sri Lanka. A great country to visit... there's an enormous variety of things to see and do... and delicious food. Welcome to SRI LANKA!”
Dilhan Fernando explaining how Dilmah’s Watte series took the most part of five years in preparation. When you look at a cup of Watte tea you will immediately notice the difference in colour.
Ceylon Silver Tips White Tea
Jens Peter Kolbeck and partner Alan Palmer
Mel Nathan
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Dilhan Fernando
Sri Lankan chefs showing off their culinary skills to the world
Leonardo Ricci
SRI LANKAN BOCUSE D'OR FINALS, COLOMBO The victory went to Team Heritance! You could hear the tension through the cutting, slicing, sautéing and roasting as 19 chefs competed as finalists in the Sri Lankan Selection for the Bocuse D’OR at the BMICH Convention Centre in July 2013. The Bocuse D’OR (Golden Bocuse) is the world’s most prestigious culinary event, it is held bi-annually in Lyon, France and presided over by Mr. Paul Bocuse. The Sri Lankan National Selection event was sponsored by Dilmah Tea amongst a host of others which hopefully see a greater emphasis on Ceylon tea and Sri Lankan spice infused dishes. The event enables young Sri Lankan chefs to show their culinary skills to the world. The Asian segment finals to be held in 2014 will be followed by the grand finale held in Lyon, 2015 in recognition of the internationally acclaimed Master Chef Paul Bocuse.
Nigel Austin
Judges at work
The competition was judged by an internationally renowned past Bocuse d’Or winner- Jens Peter Kolbeck, Publishing Editor of Food Companion international – Mel Nathan, Leonardo Ricci – Wine maker and Consultant R&D Manager of Catalan 3 star Michelin Restaurants, Michel Saelen – Consultant Chef and Culinary Strategist, Nigel Austin – Bailli Delugue of Chaine des Rotisseurs, Shyamalie Tudawe – Founder Editor Hi! Magazine.
Michel Saelen
Chef Rohan Fernandopulle, the Chairman of Bocuse d’Or Sri Lanka.
1 ST PLACE HERITANCE KANDALAMA Chef W M Augustus Lowe, Commis chef – B A I Hitharsha Thisera
2ND PLACE HILTON COLOMBO Chef H M Kumarasiri Rohana, -Commis chef Vinura de Silva 3RD PLACE HILTON RESIDENCIES Chef Haripriya Nissanka Alawatte, Commis chef – Ravindu Rathnayake FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 25
YOUNG GUNS TRAVEL COMPANION
The Etihad Family Flying with the golden Falcon WORDS BY MEL NATHAN
D
o you like meeting people, travelling the globe, experiencing cooking on a whole different level, with no end of exploring that you can do on your days off. As human beings we are very social and like acknowledgement, we like to win and to be content. For an In-Flight Chef or a Food and Beverage Manager the day starts with check in, to the time you get off the plane and you’re on the world stage. Like an actor on the Hollywood screen your giving your 100% performance. A command of an extra language is always going to be helpful, because it frees you up to provide an even better service. Having a common interest with your flying guests if you’re with them for up to eight hours can make the job very easy. The food and beverage world is the most sociable industry in the world and it is only unsociable in the beginning until you have gained friends in the industry, says Nicholas 26 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Breneliere an In-Flight chef in Diamond First Class. “The training they provide makes you resourceful in many ways. You get food and drink, laundry, accommodation and uniforms supplied and all your travel is free plus your salary is tax free, says Nicholas. You’re learning from a global perspective on food and there’s a daily challenge to cook in a confined space, but working in these micro kitchens make you work more efficiently. Your guests are from all parts of the world with different tastes, so it’s a continuous adaptation and the discovery of new products and techniques and you are applying them at 40,000 feet. Working outside of a normal kitchen situation has its merits and in an aircraft scenario you learn to become responsible for the safety of the guests on-board. I’ve even learnt how to deliver a baby on a last case scenario.” In the airline business your resume is a sales tool – it is a preview document with the aim of winning an interview so you can provide more information, demonstrate competencies and ultimately win the job. Your resume is not a document to tell the interviewer everything about you. It’s a preview, a summary and a taste of what you have to offer. When applying, you need to prepare yourself - in the kitchen this is called mise
Why I love working for Etihad
en place. It is when a chef plans the preparation of a meal and assembles all the ingredients in an organised manner so that production and service work together effectively. Your covering letter is essential, even if an advertisement says ‘send your CV’ not an application letter. Most airline recruiters will read a covering letter first and they look for simple things, for example have you addressed it correctly to them by name (and spelt correctly) and why you have applied for this job and not the other 100 in the market, and if you are a gun negotiator you can come across as self-promoting. Of course you are going to say these things about yourself – prove it in facts instead. For example, list a significant negotiation that you won and what was the outcome or quote a referee. This way you are still demonstrating your success and competency without the ego attached to it. Chefs who have a Trade Certificate means that you are making a statement that you can complete things and have a good general
understanding of the fundamentals. Generally chefs who don’t have it quite often really want it, and those who do have it rarely get asked for it. With restaurants it’s more about where you have worked and in what position, employment . This motivation for applying can be a make or break reason for getting through to first round interviews. Try and avoid as much opinion as possible in a CV. For example saying you are a great communicator, you have fantastic attention to stability and what previous chef or owner says about your performance on your last job. Sam Maradani, a former airline recruiter at Global Recruitment who serviced Etihad Airways told FCI: “Just because you earn a high figure salary, don’t assume you have a great resume – in fact in some cases, these have been the worst.” “Just by looking at a piece of paper, we can’t tell exactly what your strengths, weaknesses, significant competencies and motivations are,'' says Maradani. “In the airline business
The Middle East has long been at the crossroads of world cuisine and of world travel – never more so than today. At Etihad Airways we’re not scared to think differently - taking on the best that the world has to offer and blending it with a rich cultural heritage from our home Abu Dhabi. Indeed the tired old airline meal of the past is not something we recognise. We’re a young airline and we model ourselves on the best in the hospitality industry. We constantly strive to improve and to be better, with real chefs and Food and Beverage Managers on board we are making a significant difference to airline catering. That is exciting! and it makes it an invigorating and fulfilling place to work. Simon Soni, Head of Guest Experience, Catering, Etihad Airways
Simon Soni
Your personal chef, our onboard fine dining expert, will help you find the right dish to suit your mood and the perfect accompaniment for your meal.
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D Etihad’s Diamond First Class Training Academy today is offering food and beverage training to the world.
a resume has to give us a taste so we pick up the phone to invite you for a face to face where you can then demonstrate these in a verbal context. Too often resumes become versions of war and peace and you lose the reader by confusing them with too much irrelevant data and information that takes away from your core skills, experience and achievements. “Positions and titles are funny things and with different organisations they describe different roles.” Etihad rolled out a successful recruitment campaign attracting over 100 chefs from around the world, with a number of those coming from Australia. As an in-flight chef, the day starts as it would for any professional – starting out in the kitchen organising the galley, greeting guests and checking food quality. In one-on-one interaction with the guests, inflight chefs discuss the menu in detail, make recommendations for food and wine pairings and take guest orders. Then prepare the dishes and direct the service. Etihad’s Diamond First 28 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Class starts out with offering a complete and fully stocked ‘chef’s larder’ where the in-flight chef can tailor-make dishes if a guest fancies something different from what they see on the in-flight menu. In the kitchen, chefs will have a selection of culinary tools to put their training and expertise to excellent use, such as a whisk to prepare a dressing or flavours to add to a sauce. More base sauces are available on board – and the chef may even sauce the plate in front of the guest. Etihad’s unique Food and Beverage Manager role is purely dedicated to food service in the Pearl Business Class cabin, making for a well-rounded and attentive on board culinary team. In-Flight Chefs and Food & Beverage Managers have lots of face to face time with their premium guests, it is of the utmost importance that their command of a language and interpersonal skills are as strong as their culinary skills. Additionally, in-flight chefs serve a vital role on the ground – working on menu design for in-flight and lounge catering and ensuring a consistent culinary vision whether throughout the complete guest journey. Getting your CV in airlines noticed is like hearing someone speak at a conference – you want it to be concise, informative, entertaining and relevant with real stories and information. The Food and Beverage world is
RIVING OUT TO ABU DHABI ORGANIC FARMS was an amazing experience with the airlines Corporate Executive Chef, Thomas Ulherr. He informs me that Etihad is doing an exclusive partnership with the farms to supply fresh organic produce for the in-flight Diamond First Class dining menus. “It’s all about sustainable farming and we’re buying our eggs, vegetables and beautiful honey,” says Ulherr. I had never seen a light green coloured ‘wild cucumber’ before? “Well the heads up,” he tells me, “It might become a farm-to-table concept across all cabin classes in the future. In general the products you experience in the air are not the same you consume on the ground. And if ever you get to experience and you’re not happy with the food it’s not the food but maybe your taste buds. “Once you reach a certain altitude your body does strange things. The quality of food is an inverse proportion to a dining room’s altitude, especially when you compare it to dining in an upscale city restaurant. These are further challenges with preparing food that will ascend to nearly 15km above sea level. For starters, the pressure in the cabin has an effect on the way your body interprets taste and the chemical composition of food. Sweet desserts are the most affected, a pavlova that might taste perfect to a guest flying, would curl your toes with a touch of sourness if you were on the ground. What is causing the problems isn’t the food but your taste buds. Drinks too can take on a different flavour and wines can be affected too. When selecting a wine during a flight, the stronger tasting styles with a higher alcohol content fare better. Another issue is that water doesn’t boil at 100C, but at only 90C. This is always a challenge and some airlines go to great efforts and lengths to ensure their guests can enjoy the best flavours possible. Some coffee producers roast their coffee twice to get the extra aroma and flavour.”
HOW HIGH CAN YOUR CAREER TAKE YOU? Now Recruiting Food & Beverage Managers, and In-Flight Chefs Your chance to see the world. Do you enjoy meeting new people and exploring new cultures? Then we have the perfect opportunity for you! As a member of our Cabin Crew, Food & Beverage Managers and In-flight Chefs, you’ll experience a life most people only dream about. If you’re over 21 years of age, fluent in English, passionate about people and committed to delivering outstanding customer service, then joining the Middle East’s Leading Cabin Crew* is the perfect choice for you. It’s time to stop dreaming and start flying today. If you would like to work with the World’s Leading Airline** and see your career take off, apply online or view our Worldwide Assessment Schedule at careers.etihadairways.com
*2012, 2011 & 2010 Middle East’s Leading Cabin Staff **2013, 2012, 2011, 2010 & 2009 World Travel Awards
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DIAMOND FIRST CLASS FEATURES • Adjustable lights, they offer a range of lighting including; a reading light and a dining light
• Massive table top • Turn-down service • Do not disturb signal • Three windows to view the scenery • 38cm personal LCD screen • E Box Entertainment Sytem • USB connection • Double sized bathrooms • Small mini bar
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T’S 25 MINUTES INTO THE FLIGHT and we are still going through the menu individually. This is a food heaven. Diamond Class In-Flight chef, Nicholas Breneliere is kneeling at my side and we’re designing a bespoke menu between Abu Dhabi and Sydney, which will take approximately 14 hours. I’ve just had a luxurious Thai massage at Etihad’s T3 terminal, where I missed out on the shops altogether so I’m feeling quite
relaxed. But he has already summed me up and offers me the tasting menu from the Diamond First Class Mezoon Grille. I’ve already received my champagne before take-off, so what’s to worry about. Vintage champagne in Diamond First Class is unlikely to go out of fashion in the sky any time soon. I’m heading home from the heart of the Middle East where I visited an international food festival, Abu Dhabi Gourmet. On the Sydney to Abu Dhabi leg when I first travelled to the UAE, it was in Business Class known as Pearl Business Class, the most luxurious way to fly for business and pleasure and voted best by Skytrax in 2009 with 16 million users. Anyone who flies Etihad
Concerning the wine and food on board, regardless of the country, it is always the success of our on ground team who chooses the best of the best for our guests on board on our aircrafts. Nicholas Breneliere, In-flight Chef, Diamond First Class, Etihad
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must try Pearl Business Class just for the unique experience, they have an A La Carte “Kitchen Anytime” menu and it is available anytime which is marvellous. What I noticed mostly about flying with Etihad was that they go to extra lengths to make people happy. They smile, they’re humble and have an excellent knowledge of their product. They call First Class, Diamond First Class, Business Class, Pearl Business Class and Economy Class, Coral Economy Class. But getting back to Diamond First Class, I am seated in a spacious “restaurant area” it’s luxury air travel redefined with individual suites, higher levels of comfort and more personal space than ever before. It’s more luxurious than Pearl, but definitely worth it. Not to mention the food!
Diamond First Class breakfeast taster platter
GOURMET ABU YOUNG GUNSDHABI
Abu Dhabi Gourmet is a menu of culinary activities, Brent Savage
Caviar and bubbles are back Chef Brent Savage travelled to Abu Dhabi to produce the best a chef can get.
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WORDS BY MEL NATHAN
tihad Airways Caviar and Bubbles Dinner was an exciting promotion during the 16-day haute cuisine odyssey designed to mark another anniversary of Gourmet Abu Dhabi. The ultraglamorous event was held in the iconic, neon-lit roof five-star Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi, the world’s only hotel straddling a Formula One track. Using only the finest caviar available in
Pearl Business Class appetiser – Cucumber cannelloni with smoked salmon mousse
the world, both farmed and wild, Corporate Executive Chef Thomas Ulherr of Etihad Airways. told FCI. Guests, who flew in from all parts of the globe, enjoyed a full ninecourse menu which Chef Savage prepared five dishes, along with the list of exclusive grape vintages, including his signature course, Tom Yum creamy spaghetti with Iranian Beluga caviar infused with lemongrass, ginger and chili. Savage, a co-owner of Sydney's renowned Bentley Restaurant and Bar – has been credited with shaping the future of the antipodean city’s dining experience. “Caviar is one of those ingredients that you rarely get to
use in volume, so the prospect of using such a luxurious ingredient over a nine-course dinner is just mind-blowing for me and a fantastic opportunity as a chef. We created a really cool caviar dessert, which was one of the most exciting dishes of the evening,” he said. With the exception of Iranian Beluga, all caviar brands for the Caviar and Bubbles dinner which were produced on international farms. ( continued on page 32)
Abu Dhabi diners soon will be able to purchase caviar from Abu Dhabi’s first caviar farm, so I’m thrilled to see this positive move happening locally. Corporate Executive Chef, Thomas Ulherr, Etihad
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THINGS TO SEE AND DO ABU DHABI WORDS BY MEL NATHAN
Brent Savage's Seared sea scallops with eel brandade, borage and Abu Dhabi farmed caviar
( continued from page 31) Ulherr also credited advances in farming with saving caviar’s extinction in global culinary circles. “Caviar sturgeon was grossly over-fished and became a dying element of the global culinary world. When I arrived in the UAE, wild caviar was AED1 per gram. Now you can pay more than AED8 per gram for the same product,” said Ulherr a 17-year resident of Abu Dhabi. “Thanks to the progress made in farms, there is now more control over produce and farms can guarantee a certain quality in year-round production. Farm owners only harvest when roe is ripe and at its full potential. As a result, availability has increased, prices have come down and a new generation of diners is reaping the benefit. “Abu Dhabi diners soon will be able to purchase caviar from Abu Dhabi’s first caviar farm, so I’m thrilled to see this positive move happening locally.”
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Lunch at Mezlai – at Emirates Palace (Means the old lock of the door) Here’s the first Emirati Restaurant in the United Arab Emirates which offers a variety of up-scale local dishes made with carefully sourced and fresh ingredients. Try to get an outdoor tented table, a comfortable nook of cushy Bedouin style sofas and pillows overlooking the Emirates Palace garden. The waiter will describe the food and also the history behind it for you. The Lamb Biryani was so tender, and desserts include the ‘Shebab’ a lovely crepe-style pancake with saffron, cinnamon and cream cheese, honey orange sauce – delicious, followed by Shisha and Arabic coffee served with delicious dates. This place is rich with Emirati atmosphere and flavours.
Emirates Palace You will not believe your eyes and it feels like you’re in the largest foyer in the world. Built in the style of a majestic Arabian Palace rising from the desert sands, set on a 1.3km stretch of private beach with transparent water and luxury, and surrounded by hectares of manicured lawns. The Palace boasts 302 Grand rooms and 92 magnificent suites. They even have a Gold Vending ATM Machine in the lobby where you can purchase gold coins based on the current price of gold. The ultimate hotel to enjoy a High Tea, bursting with space and richness. Just excellent.
Saadiyat, a natural island
Jumeirah Etihad Towers Come here to navigate your bearings of Abu Dhabi, over a cup of fresh Mint tea from the Observation deck, you will feel like you’re in heaven. Fabulous views of the city skyline and the Arabian Gulf from this striking 66-storey hotel featuring 12 restaurants and bars, three swimming pools, and a private beach.
Is a multifaceted destination just seven minutes from downtown Abu Dhabi, 20 minutes from the Airport and 50 minutes from Dubai. Currently it is undergoing a remarkable transformation to become a world class leisure, business and cultural hub. ‘The Saadiyat Story’ which gives visitors an interactive narrative on the history and cultural vision behind the island. Zoned into seven different districts, each featuring diverse offerings including a range of hotels and resorts as well as a number of restaurants and shopping malls. There will be schools and the New York University-Abu Dhabi campus. Also offering are relaxed waterfront homes for residents, a cultural magnet for art lovers, the home of dazzling architectural icons, a pristine beachfront tourism destination and a focal point for compelling sporting experiences. The island will eventually
Maritime Museum
house the world’s largest single concentration of premier cultural assets, including the Zayed National Museum, the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, Louvre, Abu Dhabi, a performing arts centre and a maritime museum.
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Ferrari World Abu Dhabi Yas Marina For relaxation, entertainment and a lifestyle that no other location in the region can provide, this shore-side destination is not only the place to be and be seen, but also the natural choice for the yachting enthusiasts looking to derive maximum enjoyment from their yachts. The marina features seven licensed restaurants and lounges, children's playground, charter options and much more! The marina accommodates 192 berths catering for yachts from 8-150m.
Fun, and highly recommended for Ferrari tourists. The world’s first Ferrari theme park and largest attraction of its kind. An intense multi-sensory experience hosting over 20 state-of-the-art attractions, including rides for children of all ages, providing the complete Ferrari experience. Finish up with some retail therapy on your way out, it’s a unique Italian shopping experience.
Avenue at Etihad Towers Home to more than 35 high-end luxury brands. It’s intimate but very inviting and offers shoppers a select choice of dining options and a gourmet food store.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO ABU DHABI WORDS BY MEL NATHAN
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In these races sailors depend on their physical strength and skill to control the dhows. Dhow sailing skills and traditions are passed down by parents and grandparents ensuring the current generation knows how to handle these magnificent boats in the wind and the waves. Races can include between 60 to 90 Dhows. Organised by the Abu Dhabi Sailing & Yacht Club, that aims to continuously encourage young sailors to continue the tradition of Dhow sailing in the UAE.
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque Visiting here will rejuvenate you and bring peace of mind and soul. The largest mosque in the United Arab Emirates and the eighth largest in the world. Arguably one of the most important architectural treasures of contemporary UAE society and made out of pure white marble and boasts a stunning interior with sprawling lawns and landscaping. Worshippers kneel to pray on the world’s largest hand knotted carpet, which measures 5627m square. A perfect location for worship in the UAE for Friday gathering and Eid prayers. On major religious occasions, the Grand mosque can accommodate up to 40,000 people.
Shukran
Abu Dhabi Sailing & Yacht Club Spice up your sailing! I experienced my first Dhow Yacht Race. Twenty-two foot Dhow racing is not only a traditional sport but an essential part of the UAE’s sailing heritage with children and adults. Constructed from wood, they are rigged with one sail. The sails carry the distinctive colours of the UAE flag. The crew consists of three sailors aged eight-12 and one skipper aged over 18. This way, the older and experienced skipper can teach and pass their skills onto the younger generations. Each race is held over a 6-10 nautical mile course, with three races to constitute the Championship. Divided into three separate categories according to the length of the dhows, 22ft, 43ft and 60ft. The boats are made of wood and are designed according to the traditions and secrets of the Dhow sailing families.
FCI would like to thank Etihad Airways and Abu Dhabi Culture & Tourism Authority for providing the opportunity to learn and live the exotic lifestyle of food and culture in Abu Dhabi. Abu Dhabi is becoming justifiably renowned as a hub of progress with an exciting tourism and sustainable future. You too can be a part – if you can spare a whole week in Abu Dhabi.
For more information:
Etihad Airways: www.etihad.com Abu Dhabi Culture & Tourism Authority: www.tcaabudhabi.ae
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Everything about the hotel is unique, the service is excellent, the food is Turkish (so of course, very good) and life here when you stay is pretty perfect.
IN CONVERSATION WITH EYÜP YUNUSOGLU, MARTI ISTANBUL HOTEL
Fruits of the Sea My cuisine is local, seasonal, easy, tasteful Mediterranean and Turkish. Born? Sanli Urfa, Turkey. Favourite
Marti Istanbul Hotel An elegant Award-winning five star hotel is located in the heart of Taksim, the shopping, cultural and commercial heart of the city, and home to entertainment venues and bustling nightlife as well as a short ride to the famed Bosphorus shores. Designed by internationally acclaimed female interior designer Zeynep Fadillioglu, comprising of 270 luxurious guest rooms and suites spread over 11 floors. The service is excellent, while a stroll through to any of its gastronomic restaurants feels deeply authentic Turkish. Marti Istanbul Hotel Abdulhak Hamit Cad. No: 25/B Taksim Istanbul, TURKEY Phone: +90 212 987 4000 www.martiistanbulhotel.com
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cheap eat? Turkish sesame bagel (Simit)
with cheese. What keeps you going? Typical Turkish tea served in a thin glass. Advice to future young chefs? Always follow alterations, research, try new things, observe, take notes and tips. Be open minded. Favourite kitchen tool? A very well designed charcoal grill or my smokeless “Borasco” Most controversial menu item? For me it is caramelised artichoke tart. Favourite thing about Istanbul? Not easy to pick, but would have to say our fruitful fish season in autumn. Most useful cookbook? I always prefer the basic homemade recipe cookbooks. Early influences? When I worked closely with chef Maximillian
Thomae as his sous chef. He also worked with chef Hans Haas. I’ve been reading books about their fusion techniques. On classic vs modern cuisine? I prefer modern cuisine however if combined in good variations and tasteful harmony, why not both? Career you would have pursued if you didn't become a chef? Easily an industrial or kitchen designer. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Like in all sorts of business with lots of appreciations there comes success and opportunities. Career turning point? To have my own food consultancy office. Favorite sport? To play football. Rarely jogging! Ingredient obsession? Without any question, seafood.
YOUNG GUNS
THE WORLD IS OUR HOME YOU ARE OUR GUEST
Whether it’s a 2003 Château Laroque with its intense berry fruit, a buttery Meursault or the most distinctive Champagnes, our sommeliers ensure we only serve the finest wines from around the world. Our pleasure is sharing delicious discoveries whenever you fly with us. Are our efforts worth it? We think so. After all, you are our guest.
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LETTER FROM THE CORRESPONDENT, SEVIL OREN IN TURKEY
Sweet dreams are made of this FRAGRANT REMEMBRANCES BRING HONEYED TASTES
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elcome to a very special issue of FCI, where we are off to meet and eat our way through Istanbul. Istanbul is a city where more than 13 million people with various backgrounds, languages, religions and cultures live together in peace. It’s a city that connects the continents of Europe and Asia via its many bridges and it is a meeting place for many new ideas and concepts. I like to write about travel and tourism and FCT's editor-in-chief Mel Nathan likes to write about food and chefs. When Mel visited Istanbul and Turkey for the Gastronomy Festival she paid a visit to the NAR Gastronomy within the Armaggan Complex. Vedat Basaran demonstrated the Akide Sekeri cooking to Gonul Paksoy and Mel. A colorful and interesting demonstration with a catching smell that invites all senses for a taste and it is just very difficult not to dip your finger into the hot spread and lick the heavenly taste. You can't do that as you will be left with a burning finger rather than a sweet taste in your mouth. The tradition and the story behind this is even more intriguing. During the Ottoman Empire there were very colorful traditions and this was one of them.Akide Sekeri is made with melted sugar that included various smelling flowers and spices plus juices of fruits. My favorite ones are; cinnamon, lemon, rose, mint, sesame seed and nuts.I don't know what the favorite taste of the soldiers in the Ottoman Empire army was but I believe that this was a sweet way of expressing satisfaction for the pay rise the soldiers were given. These soldiers were the ‘Yeniceri’ and they were very valuable soldiers who were educated in a special way and had influence on the Ottoman Empire decision making politics. They were brave, educated and trustworthy. The Sultans gave great importance to the Yeniceri and in order to keep them serving for the Empire in the army, special agreements with special payments were submitted for their approval. If the Yeniceri agreed to that, they were given the rise money with the Akide Sekeri in a special package. The word “Akide” means signing of an agreement and it had to have a sweet taste,inviting colors and an appealing smell. The agreements of today lack that colorful, mouth-watering, pleasant smelling lollies that were the symbol of Sweet Acceptance for a service well deserved and appreciated. Mel flew back to Sydney with a sweet taste in her mouth; memories so full that she had difficulty in choosing the coverage of this edition. 38 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Chef Vedat Basaran showcasing his freshly made Akide Sekeri at Armaggan, Istanbul
The sweet taste and inviting colours of ‘Akide Sekeri’ – boiled sugar sweets flavoured with fruit juices or spices, take it from Gonul Paksoy, it's really delicious!
NEWS FOOD PEOPLE TURKEY
TURKISH NATIONAL DAY, OPERA HOUSE, SYDNEY Consulate General for Turkey, Celik Gulseren with Tony Issa, Member for Granville, State Parliament, NSW.
On a warm and balmy night at Sydney’s Opera House, the Consul-General of the Republic of Turkey Ms. Gülseren Çelik invited MPs from both houses of the NSW Parliament, businessmen, academics, leading figures of Sydney art society, and distinguished members of the Australian-Turkish community. Guests looked gorgeous!
Sarap Peker with Celik Gulseren and Semra Batik
EVER VISITED TURKEY?
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk
Arman Azuman and son
WHO WAS MUSTAFA KEMAL ATATURK?
Somer Sivriolglu,Efendy Mordern Turkish Restaurant, Balmain with Emin Akseki and wife Astli Sivrioglu.
Turkey is amazingly different to what it was nearly 9 decades ago. Standing proud to be a secular democracy, based upon the rule of law. An active member of the Euro-Atlantic community pursuing full membership in the European Union and a market economy. Turkey’s economy is the 16th largest in the world, 6th in Europe with a GDP of more than 1 trillion US Dollars supported by a thriving private sector and a dynamic population of over 75 million.
The remarkable achievements of Turkey in the last 89 years has all been due to Mustafa Kemal Ataturk founder of the Republic of Turkey and first President. His vision has revamped the entire fabric of the Turkish nation transforming the country into a modern and progressive one.
Serife Arslan, Consul General, Turkey PA enjoying the event
Turkey and Australia celebrates at Sydney's Opera House. Theviews were splendid!
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RUSSELL CROW E IN ISTANBUL FOR A MOVIE ABOUT ANZACS WORDS BY OZGUR TORE
World-famous actor Russell Crowe visited Turkey recently for his upcoming film project which is about Australian and New Zealand soldiers who fought at Gallipoli in the Ottoman Empire during World War I. Crowe is about to make his directing debut on the post-first world war drama The Water Diviner, which focuses
Russell Crowe and Ömer Çelik, Minister of Culture and Tourism in Istanbul.
Istanbul… A great city to visit!
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on a father from New Zealand-born Crowe's adopted homeland who travels to Turkey in 1919. There, he hopes to discover what has happened to his two sons, both of whom have gone missing follow ing the battle for Gallipoli. The failed 1915-16 allied campaign, which incor porated troops from Australia and New Zealand, aimed to knock Turkey out of the war. He met Turkish Culture and Tourism Minister Ömer Çelik at Topk apı Palace in Istanbul follow ing visiting some historical sites in Turkey including; Cappadocia, Fethiye and Edirne. Speaking at a press conference, Russell Crowe said this is his third time in Turkey and every time he came he was more fascinated by the culture. Crowe also noted that he would ask for assistance from Minister Çelik in recruiting some Turkish actors.
NEWS FOOD PEOPLE TURKEY
Delicously, famous Turkish Pomegranates
International Istanbul Gastronomy Director and founder Mr. Yalcin Manav.
Fashionable labels - some of the best chef clothing can be discovered in Istanbul at gastronomy!
INTERNATIONAL ISTANBUL GASTRONOMY, TURKEY Turkey… A great country to visit ... There's an enormous variety of things to see and do.. and delicious food. Welcome to TURKEY, Welcome to Cooks and Chefs Federation of Turkey! This year marks the 14th anniversary of the festival. Be immersed in the cuisine and culture of a total of 2000 chefs from 25 nations, competing in 52 different categories. The festival will host 25,000 visiting guests from all around the globe including a distinguished jury of 100 multinational professionals who will be evaluating the works of participating chefs. Festival Director and President of COFED, Yalçın Manav told us FCI that the event has become even more reputable and prestigious than ever before. The gastronomy festival is just a great opportunity for people who want to catch up with the new food trends, kitchen gadgets and books on food from the culinary world. On the last day of the festival, competition winners received their awards at the closing ceremony.
The Judges Room - is a hive of activity during Gastronomy where scores for 28 nations are all correlated and processed.
Mel and Ivan Buzolic, Croatian Chefs Association and legendary Slowfood Restaurateur in Split.
Gastronomy chefs, Ahmed Shafiq, Chefs Associaiton of Pakistan with Ragnar Fridriksson, GM of WACS www.worldchefs.org
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EPICUREAN
Turkish Airlines' cuisine makes time fly You might prefer to stay the night in the lounge WORDS BY MEL NATHAN
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hat better place to explore Turkey’s food culture than a visit to “Lounge Istanbul” and a flight with Turkish Airlines, Europe’s fourth biggest airline. Passengers can now spend time in a comfortable environment while waiting for their next flight. We always look at the food as part of the overall entertainment package on board an aircraft, it creates discussion, anticipation and helps make time fly [no pun] especially so for long haul travelling. But Turkish Airlines has hit the spot in offering its passengers an experience on the ground at its Istanbul hub, geographically positioned it’s a meeting place between Europe and Asia. Lounge Istanbul in one word is extravagant, with an interior design
reflecting Turkey’s rich cultural heritage appealing to passengers of all ages. Boasting around 3000m sq of space, it has the capacity to accommodate up to 1000 passengers at one time. Meeting rooms have been designed for corporate comfort with every detail meticulously covered. Business professionals have the option of a video conference or teleconference with their companies and offices while waiting for their flight. Or if you’re not in a hurry, why not enjoy a live piano performance while you sip on a cocktail at the olive garden area at the real olive tree which is over 150 years old. Lounge İIstanbul is operated by Gourmet Entertainment Company Turkish DO & CO, and its 80 staff work there 24 hours a day.
Lounge Istanbul Features
• Gourmet pide/köfte station with chef • 3,000m sq • Watch variety of news channels with headsets in different languages. • Cinema • Library • Kids Corner • Billiards • Lockers [made from clear glass] • Showers • Private Suites • TV screens [varieties galore] with headsets • Flight radar screen • Laptops • Ironing service • 2,000+ passengers daily.
Keeping passengers up to date with all the latest in Turkish food and wine scene. Not only a place to rest, eat and play but providing social and cultural awareness in Istanbul
Turkish Airlines Lounge Istanbul is attracting wine and food enthusiasts from the local and international business sector
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YOUNG GUNS NEWS FOOD PEOPLE AUSTRALIA
“WE’VE BEEN TO SOME MARVELLOUS PARTIES...” I will attempt to keep you in touch with whatever’s in and whatever’s out and who’s who in town with our chefs and restaurateurs. I haven’t yet been to the opening of an envelope yet, but I’m prepared to open one that has an exciting invitation. Mind you I did once go to the opening of a door but that’s another story. Older I may be but not yet jaded and am for ever wondering into the night looking for yet another event. Sydney is the party city and on the social round I could attend anything from a boxing match to the opening of a bordello and in between the occasional glamorous soiree with the A-list! Over the years, I have seen many of the high flyers come crashing down, only to raise phoenix like some years later with another new exciting venture. Fortunately Sydney is a rich tapestry and it still produces numbers of glamorous and beautiful people, sprinkled with visiting superstars. Which makes the Emerald city still one of the most interesting spots on the planet.”
Bill Ranken, Social snapper
Guy Griffin, Diedre O’Loghlin and Spice Am I’s Sujet Saenkham
ASIA ON YOUR DOORSTEP... Seven’s Susie Elelman and MasterChef Winner Adam Liaw
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The City of Sydney celebrated in style the fabulous feast of flavours at Sydney’s Town Hall.
Sir James and Lady Hardy
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Rian Pask and Natalie Campbell
Kesanee Palanuwongse Deputy Consul General, Thailand with Toshiyaki Kobayashi, Acting Consul General Japan
THE EIGHT’S 120 YUM CHA DISHES IN 120 MINUTES... Sydney’s largest and most exclusive contemporary eatery in the Haymarket opened its doors for an elegant yum cha showcase. And take it from us everything was so delicious!
M.C. Lee Lin Chin News Presenter, SBS TV and Joana Savill SMH Good Food Month Festival Director
Indira Naidoo and Darryl Montu from Reho Travel at the AOYD
Maeve O’Meara and Suzy Brien from Gourmet Safaris
The Lord Mayor Clover Moore with guest speaker George Souris, the Minister for Tourism
Kerri Anne Kennerley and Glen Marie Frost The Eight’s Chillie Poon and Henry Tang
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NEWS FOOD PEOPLE AUSTRALIA Sakurani Gallage and Thirun Amaraweena
Christine Dominguez with Belle Sheldon Kittea and Ann Kelsey
Not Quite Nigella, Lorraine Elliot
Sue and Phillip Collins with Dilmah Judge Bernd Michael Uber
DILMAH “CHARITEA” HIGH TEA AT THE LANGHAM, SYDNEY Dilmah founder Merrill J. Fernando and son Dilhan Fernando invited some of Sydney’s tea aficionado’s to a High Tea hosted by celebrity Chef Peter Kuruvita offering a tasteful insight into the Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge. Attracting the most enthusiastic tea aficionados and Chefs from around the world, the Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge was inaugurated by the Fernando family in Colombo, in 2007, with the objective of ‘putting the tea back in high tea’.
Merrill J. Fernando with Leon Finke
Amila Perera and Sarath Mataraachchi
Kirsten Harris and Simone Logue
Nabi and Angela Saleh
Emma Papadimitriou and Clare White Merrill J. Fernando with Dilhan C. Fernando
Rachael Delalande, Chanel Gallen and Gabrielle Bryden
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J.D. and Sandy Wingrove
The Kuruvita’s, Taj, Marley, Karen, Jai and Peter
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Lots of Sydney Exec Chefs turned up for the affair. John Deane, Stadium Australia, Derek Baker, Rydges North Sydney, Mark Baylis, UFS and Craig Veigel
Tim Smith, Rob McGavin (Boundary Bend/ Cobram Estate) with Amanda Bailey (The Olive Centre) and Nutritionist and Dietitian, Johanna McMillan
ACF's Neil Abrahams and Deb Foreman
The Panel - some of the country's most skillful, experienced, knowledgeable on Olive Oil were present on the night.
Janni Krystis, Stephanie Alexander and Peter Morgan-Jones
Lisa Rowntree, CEO of Australian Olive Oil Association
WEDNESDAY .................
JULY, 10 2013 Please join us for a celebration of
Fresh Extra Virgin
i
Olive Oil o at Fevo
With special guest Stephanie Alexander THE MINT MACQUARIE ST SYDNEY
FOLLOWED BY PANEL & GROWERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; FORUMS OF A GALLERY US PL AUSTRALIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OILS
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FOR PM MASTERCLASS
AT PM THERE WILL BE A SPECIAL AUCTION OF NEW SEASON OILS WITH ALL PROCEEDS GOING TO THE STEPHANIE ALEXANDER KITCHEN GARDEN FOUNDATION
Popular presenter and Media personality in the Sydney cuisine-scene Lyndey Milan. And now (OAM) Congratulations.
FEVOO AT THE MINT Helping to put the whole picture together for chefs and epicureans at The Mint. The goodie bags were awesome! A loaf of fresh Sonoma bread, fresh oils galore, olives and an olive tree to remind chefs to keep EVOO front of their minds when it comes to cooking.
....................... ....................... ....................... ..... RSVP ESSENTIAL TO
Justine Henschke justine@thecrumedia.com 0408 829 986
Always passionate about using fresh Australian Olive Oils Chef Janni Krystis
Anthony Craven, The Langham, Mark Baylis, UFS, Werner Kimmeringer, Gate Gourmet and James Mussak.
Westerly Isbaih and father Robert Armstrong from ALTO Olives. Janni Krystis and Lyndey Milan
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Paul Judge and Belaroma's Sharon Jan
Tim Browne and brigade had a reason to smile, they cooked up a storm!
Lynne Tietzel
PRESIDENTS LUNCH AT RAS SHOWGROUNDS
“Best Swiss Roll” Joseph Roche
An elegant approach to appetising produce. Producers, chefs and industry turned up for one a gala lunch to celebrate Australian winners in aquaculture, beef, lamb, breads, pies, cakes, coffee, pasta and olive oil.
Chairman of Judges Graham Latham
Good food mates, Joanna Savill, Simon Thomsen and Lyndey Milan
SALERNO AT THE SLIP INN Eileen LorenzoTogi with Leah Cruz, Professional Public Relations
Chef great Christine Manfield
Solerno, the Blood Orange Liqueur made exclusively on the island of Sicily, will be available in some of Australia’s most respected bars and restaurants shining equally in modern interpretations of classic cocktails, original creations, and Italian inspired aperitivi.
GOOD FORK WEEK Aimed at the fight of our growing obesity epidemic. 300 restaurants, cafes and bars participated. Chefs were asked to commit to making a small change to a menu item and make it more nutritious for one week.
Melissa Hogan and Jennifer Smith
James Atkinson, Henry Poole and Clyde Mooney
Salerno's Brand Ambassador Jackie Patterson enjoying a Salerno at The Slip Inn
Katrina Hodgkinson and Kerri Griffiths
Levi Wal, CEO Obesity Prevention Australia with Yezdi Daruwalla, MD, Unilever Food Solutions, Australia
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Hayley Morgan and Miranda Ryan
More awards you can throw a stick at Tracy Nickyl from Gumnut Pattiserie
A new level of consistent quality, out of the rich Riverina “RIVERINA ANGUS BEEF”
THE ULTIMATE BEEF EXPERIENCE, PARK HYATT, SYDNEY The only thing better than the view was the beef when chefs and epicureans came together to learn about JBS Australia’s new brand, Riverina Angus. The Sydney crowd was in awe of the sublime tenderness and flavour of this award winning beef that is now available in not only Australia, but to the fine dining restaurant sector around the world. Take it from us, the marble score 2 beef served up was out of this world!
Walter Fernandes, Simon MacNamara and Bikky Ahluwlia
Claire Tindale with Paul Rifkin
Andrew McKee
JBS's Denis Conroy with Anthony Puharich, Vic's Meats Sharyn Lomonaco and Mark Bemer
Game Farm's, Venessa Barnes with Claire Tindale, MLA
Chef Sam Burke, Meat and Livestock of Australia
Sushi Mohanta with ACCOR's Leslie McLean and Mastercut's Jim Parker
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NEWS FOOD PEOPLE AUSTRALIA
Pennant Hills one of Sydney's oldest and peaceful Golf Clubs.
Matt Skelton and Jeremy Lawickii, Wests Leagues Club with Chris Clare, Top Cut Foods Spicy jamon with honey, pine nuts on hole 5 was delicious!
TOP CUT GOLF TOURNAMENT FOR SYDNEY CHEFS 60 chefs attended a marvellous golf day at Pennant Hills. The day ended with a sumptuous BBQ lunch overlooking the beautiful tailored greens and a cool ale! PHOTOGRAPHY KYLIE ROBERTS
YOU ARE INVITED TO THE TOP CUT FOODS AND PARTNERS CHEF’S GOLF DAY Join us and around 60 chef’s, purchasing and procurement managers for the inaugural City vs Country Chef’s Golf Day, and you could win some great prizes! Details: Where: Pennant Hills Golf Club, Copeland Rd, Pennant Hills When: Tuesday 24th September, 2013 Time: Registration and Breakfast to commence at 9:45am – finish 5:30pm RSVP: by 3rd September to Venessa.barnes@topcut.com.au
Luke Bramston, GM Melbourne and Tony Mandaliti, GM NSW.
Markus Perkert, M. Nathan, Andy Ball and Michael James
BIG THANKS TO PARTNERS – SIMPLOT, RARE
MEDIUM, MSA, AUSTRALIAN PORK LIMITED, DON KR CASTLEMAINE FOODSERVICE, HIGH COUNTRY PORK, RIVERINA BEEF, RIVALEA AUSTRALIA & GAME FARM
Proud owners of the farm Sue and Col Roberts
Good boy Morris!
Chefs lining up for the tour
TRUFFLE HUNT, LOWES MOUNT TRUFFIERE, OBERON
Sydney chef Tamas Pamer
The average price for a kilo of black truffle in Australia is approx $2500kg
WORDS BY TAMAS PAMER I first heard about Australian truffles on one of my culinary discoveries at the Everleigh Market in Sydney, and very fortunate to visit the place with a group of chefs. We tried their Black Perigord Truffles first-hand. The experience was surprisingly great. The fresh truffle aroma and taste reminded me of my days in Germany, where I bought truffles directly from Uwe, my truffle expert. I enjoyed meeting Col and Sue on their farm, and meeting their truffle hunting dogs, Morris and Sully, to discover more. Our team of chefs and friends were extremely keen. The hunt was extremely successful and we came together for a Truffle Masterclass in Col’s kitchen. We were so excited about the fresh truffles and food that we were barely able to control ourselves. We did slow-cooked organic eggs, smoked lamb ribs, truffle white polenta, yabbies and Tajima Wagyu. Of course, all dishes carried the strong flavour of the Black Perigord Truffles, freshly sourced from Oberon. We will be doing some special degustation series at InterContinental Sydney’s Cafe Opera. The fourth experience in the series is based on the truffles from Lowes Mount, in July.
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We collected nearly half a kilo in an hour, wow! Truffle Masterclass in Col’s kitchen
IN CONVERSATION WITH JOHN T. BAILEY
Sh o rt blacks a nd suga r keep me g o in g . . .
Tasmania with a blast I left the Aussie mainland in 1990 and fell in love with Tassie food, lifestyle, wine, beverages - and Tassie girls, which is how I got Lee, now my wife! The future? Who knows!
Sous Vide = keeping chefs happy.tender juicy meats, perfect vegetables and soft cooked eggs
Born? Bolton, England, UK Education? Higher College Diplomas Best kitchens worked? The Dorchester, London; Hotel Vier Jaherzieten, Munich; Regent,
Sydney. Favourite cheap eat? Vima Restaurant Hobart Tasmania (Vietnamese). What keeps you going? Sugar and short blacks! Advice to future young chefs? Learn to listen to your elders. Favourite kitchen tool? Sous vide, blast freezer. Most controversial menu item? Gold leaf. Favourite thing about Tamar Valley? The produce. Most useful cookbook? Stephanie Alexander Food Companion Early influences? Grandfather and Mother. On classic vs modern cuisine? Happy to mix both. Career you would have pursued if you didn't become a chef? Professional footballer (soccer). How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Pay them what they are worth. Career turning point? Working at The Dorchester Hotel, London. Favourite sport? English Premier League (EPL â&#x20AC;&#x201C; soccer). Ingredient obsession? Rare breed pork. Purveyor tip? Treat people how you want to be treated.
John's new book... Nestled in the fertile valley of the Tamar River, Launceston and its surrounds are home to some of the most extraordinary food producers in the country. A must have for epicureans and chefs! RRP $49.95
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Juan Sagnier and Garcia Barquero
NEWS FOOD PEOPLE AUSTRALIA Tops for city dining, either breakfast, lunch and dinner. Executive chef Joe Pavlovich.
Garcia Barquero
SPANISH CHEESE – AUSSIE DELIGHT AT GLASS… Glass’s Joe Pavlovich hosted a Spanish Artisan Cheese workshop along with always in demand Juan Sagnier and guest Garcia Barquero one of Spain’s most respected artisan cheese makers who was in Sydney for one night. The focus of the session? How Spanish cheese can work in partnership with more Australian chefs, restaurants and fine delicatessen operators. It was a chatty look at the expert's opinions! WORDS BY WESTERLY ISBAIH
sh Spani
Sweet Cheeses
Merely hearing the words‘ Spanish Cheese Tasting’ is enough to get you salivating. I mean, who doesn’t love a great piece of cheese?
W
ith an aim of introducing the chefs to the Garcia Baquero brand of premium cheese from Spain. Miguel Angel, the son of Hersilio Garcia Baquero, who founded the Garcia Baquero company, shared the famous story behind it. Their philosophy of respecting every aspect of tradition in master cheese making as well as their commitment to food safety, product traceability and quality guarantee clearly set them apart from the everybody else. A tasting of 6 different cheeses were offered and served 52 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
at perfect room temperature. Fresh green apple slices in order to refresh our palates, and prepare us for the next one. Cheeses ranged from a straight goats milk cheese, which was quite young and gentle, to some mixed milk cheeses e.g. Iberico cheese, made from the milk of ewes, goats and cows. These started to have a more complex, fuller flavour and a different, firmer texture. Then onto the ewes' milk Manchego cheese from La Mancha, which is well known as being the most recognised Spanish cheese in the world. This cheese was mature, tangy and delicious with each sheep only producing 150 litres of milk every year. Miguel Angel then described the three levels of taste. The
primary taste should be the fresh cooked milk and that the secondary taste comes from what the animal actually consumed in terms of the grasses, herbs etc. The final taste comes from the maturation and ripening process that occurs once the cheese has been made. The final two, a special Gran Reserva that had undergone some intensive maturation and ripening processes involving ph and temperature. The first, Cinco Lanzas, with a flavour profile that was quite Mediterranean, with hints of dried fruits and nuts and a herbal finish. The second, a Reserva with tropical overtones of banana, pine nut and rosemary characters. Both cheeses left us wanting more. Absolutely delicioso!
IN CONVERSATION WITH JOE PAVLOVICH, GLASS BRASSERIE
Madcap method It seems like anything goes at the moment, the wackier the better Born? I grew up on a dairy farm in New
Zealand. Advice for future young chefs? Get ready for a great time but a hard time: hard work, patience and longevity will get you there. Don't burn out too quickly and keep the passion going. On cooking and graduating to a top career? In some ways it is easier as there are so many restaurants out there who are looking for chefs to develop, but in other ways it’s harder as the good chefs are staying in the top jobs longer. The really big jobs are far and few between. Working as a chef is hard? Yes. Some chefs receive a massive shock. You have to get used to the kitchen culture from the beginning. Like a new language – it’s fast paced and sometimes there are no breaks, going through intense periods like dinner service and scrubbing the
odd pot or two. Sometimes you will get told off for not doing a thing right, or use a wrong ingredient, but then you get to celebrate afterwards and then to return to do your best performance the next day all over again. Professionals who stick it out will reap rewards later. You need to manage yourself and career correctly. The kitchen 5 years ago? It’s much better today. We cook more naturally and present that way. I still really enjoy my fine- dining although it’s not the norm these days. It’s more about flavour and price driven ingredients today, becoming harder for restaurants as there’s
Joe Pavlovich
so much competition – and good for the diners! Your produce philosophy? Fresh as possible. When you’re not cooking? My family. I have three small children and when I’m not working I spend all my time with them. Tip for the home cook? If following recipes, make sure that you read them well; a lot of people read the ingredients but not the method and wonder why it doesn’t work. And if you are a free styler, then have fun with it and don’t be scared to make a mistake. No one is going to tell you off at home, cooking is about fun!
Luke Mangan
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NEWS FOOD PEOPLE AUSTRALIA
THE SYDNEY CULINARY CHALLENGE PHOTOGRAPHY SHANE FENTON
KITCHEN STADIUM
NEIL ABRAHAMS, at the helm of NSW/ACT and Regions culinary scene. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to keep track of the peripatetic chef whilst he is off travelling, employing, training, cooking, competing and enjoying life! Food Companion International would like to raise a glass to all these deserving men and women at gala events we have been covered in this issue. Thumbing through our social pages about local and international food events, you, too can celebrate their achievements.
Neil Abrahams President, Australian Culinary Federation NSW, ACT & Regions National Secretary, Australian Culinary Federation, Culinary Council, Bocuse D'OR Australia
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RESTAURANT STADIUM Give the customer all your attention, but remember to be yourself, everyone is a unique individual. In giving the very best of yourself to each customer, you will experience, and actually become, the best yourself! ACF Judge, Hugh Eldridge
THE CHAMPIONS OF RESTAURANTS PHOTOGRAPHY SHANE FENTON
Each team of 3 wait staff had a king-size task of serving over 30 VIP guests with 1 entree and 1 main course from their designated kitchens. Bringing a brilliant knowledge and understanding of the dishes with them into the stadium.
COMPETITORS WERE JUDGED ON THE FOLLOWING POINTS:
• Greeting and Seating • Personal Grooming and Presentation • Menu Knowledge and Order Taking • Beverage Knowledge and
Recommendations • Beverage Service • Entree / Main / Dessert Service • Plate Clearance and Crumbing Down • Billing and Farewell • Service Interaction, Conversation, Rapport and Banter • Personal Grooming
Judge/Butler from Canberra’s Governor Generals Department for the last 33 years with ACF Judge, Mel Nathan
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NEWS FOOD PEOPLE AUSTRALIA
Solid and experienced ACF, VIC judge, Dale Lyman, William Angliss, Victoria
Chefs Keaton O'Donnell and Robbie Pulp Kitchen, Canberra
THE SYDNEY CULINARY CHALLENGE MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT l would like to express my appreciation to all of our sponsors, committee members, judges and competitors involved for the reason that the participation of these people contributed to the success of the Australian Culinary Challenge 2013. The calibre of food put up was sensational and it was great to see a young demographic of chefs putting themselves out there and stepping up to the plate and seeing all competitors challenging themselves.
Neil Abrahams, Hon. President of ACF, NSW/ACT & Regions, Australia.
JOINING THE ACF The Australian Culinary Federation is a national organisation that represents professional chefs, cooks and apprentices, while promoting and advancing the Australian food service industry. Australian Culinary Federation membership provides members access to our vast network via the intrinsic web we weave, through state chapters, regional groups, social events, competitions, and interest groups, which allows all members to network with colleagues and participate in the federations work. HOW TO REGISTER: 1. Go to www.austculinary.com.au 2. Online Application (located on the home page) 3. You can join in every state in Australia
Ann Dooley and Darren Ho, ACF, NSW/ACT & Regions
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Shannon Kellam, Executive Chef, The Brisbane Club
Shane Keighley, Executive Chef, The Regatta Hotel, Brisbane, Queensland
LIFE AS A COMPETITOR PHOTOGRAPHY SHANE FENTON
Service interaction, confident conversations, striking up a conversation, rapport and banter, great interaction with the kitchen brigade and making the diners feel welcomed. The way you farewell guests is like saying goodbye to your friends. The event being a fabulous success, next year we are hoping for some new recruits for the competition, interested? Contact secretary@austculinary.com.au
LIFE AS A JUDGE
A sweet subject! We bumped into Anna Polyviou, one of the most popular and talked about pastry chefs in the country. Currently the Executive Pastry Chef at Sydneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shangri-la.
Darren Ho
In a gastronomic event it is a very difficult and exhausting task. But the most beautiful experience is when you meet and taste national dishes of different countries, and when you see how the competitors are trying to make the best meal they possibly can â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you also have the opportunity to congratulate them for their success. In my opinion, we are there to help young service staff to go the right way to gastronomy, especially if we consider that the competitions are organised with the aim of exchanging experiences between service staff from different parts of the world and a culinary competition understood as a practical forum. But, the most important is that in any event, the competitor always receives an explanation from the judges for their downfalls, because if you made a mistake, it must be acknowledged that the mistake will not be made again. FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 57
YOUNG GUNS NEWS FOOD PEOPLE AUSTRALIA
On garnishes, there is always something creative to learn and discover says Peter Li
Gold leaf is sometimes used to decorate food or drink on festive events, typically to promote a perception of luxury and high value, thoughit is flavourless.
Stuffed golden tomatoes with fresh crab meat topped in a pumpkin jus with a gold leafing garnish.
The pressure was on! In the Fusion Kitchen Restaurant
CREATIVE AUSTRALIAN/CHINESE CULINARY COOK OFF NSW Chefs Association is a small and developing organisation in Sydney. The current serving President of the organisation Henry Chan told FCI “Its a great platform for chefs who want to try the competition arena and a forum where you can share many types of cooking experiences as a challenge or an event to gain more experience. Our aim is really to encourage more people to become involved in the Chinese culinary community in Sydney” says Current serving President Henry Chan, Peking Seafood Restaurant, Eastwood. Founding year of the organisation? April 2004 First President? Raymond Chan. Mission Statement? To improve cooking skills between members and the culinary community with Sydney chefs. Membership types within your organization and how much is it to join? All same type of membership $200 joining fee then ongoing $120 annually. Favourite thing about being with this organisation? Monthly meetings, developing new cooking skills between chefs, discussing new products and technical information and techniques. Organising our yearly Charity Banquet.
Judging Exhibition Room, Asian Culinary Centre at Crows Nest TAFE.
“My dream is to create gluten free, vegetarian and vegan dishes. I have an edible organic garden which is my other passion!” Apprentice winner Wendy Dwyer
Ann Dooley,Allen Yu and Henry Chan, President, NSW Chefs Association
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Amen Lee and Brian Revett
YOUNG GUNS
Spicy Sichuan Restuarant's Executive Chefs Peter Li and Michael Zhang
Franki Ha, Vice President, NSW Chefs Asso ciation
Henry Chan with Chak Lam Kwok
WINNERS ARE GRINNERS ! Each winner of the Apprentice and Professional category won a trip to Hong Kong. ITINERARY
• Depart Sydney for Hong Kong • Dinner in Michelin Restaurant • Visit Cooking Competition • Lunch at a Michelin Restaurant • Join the Awards Banquet at the
‘Lee Kum Kee’ Young Chef Comp.
• Visit Lee Kum Kee factory in Xin Hui • Dinner of ‘Lee Kum Kee Soy Sauce Banquet’ • Visit ‘Citrus factory’ sightseeing trip. • Shopping in Hong Kong • Fly home to Sydney
Judges Zhou Hua, Kitty Huang, Mel Nathan and Amen Lee
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NEWS FOOD PEOPLE AUSTRALIA
Roshan Thammitaarachchi, ACF NSW/ACT &Regions
Chief Judge Hideo Dekura
KOREAN CULTURAL CULINARY COOK OFF, ASIAN CULINARY CENTRE, SYDNEY
Chef John Leong
Winning dish came from Sydney's Wildfire, wow.
Matt Weller’s winning combination of Confit of Salmon with forbidden quinoa, miso curd puree, spring onions shells, shaved fennel salad, yuzu gel won the day and the $5000.00 in prize money!
Leong's Kangaroo Yum Cha – what a taste sensation!
Chinese Spring Roll with Kangaroo
KANGAROO YUM CHA AT PHOENIX RESTAURANT, MANLY BEACH, SYDNEY
Kurt Von Buren, Head of Judging ACF, NSW/ACT & Regions
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Chinese Chef John Leong is a dim sum master. We hosted an afternoon for some of Sydney’s leading Chinese chefs. The lunch certainly highlighted the versatility of kangaroo meat. The idea of getting chefs and restaurants to feature more kangaroo meat on menus has really gained momentum. Chef Leong’s approach of offering 'typical Aussie favourites’ like the spring rolls and steamed buns were an appropriate way of introducing kangaroo in an easy, palatable and familiar manner. The richness and depth of flavour all worked extremely well. You will notice his Kangaroo spring rolls with spicy sate sauce doing rounds on the Yum Cha trolley next time w you visit the place!
Phoenix Manly Chinese
I was hungry for EVOO information and got one of the best factory floor tours I've experienced with Pablo Canamasas.
Australia’s largest olive oil producer. Boundary Bend is owned by Cobram Estate and has many grove locations in the country.
Grey nomads - you see them on the Combram Estate everywhere, they are in plentiful supply!
Co-founders Rob McGavin with Paul Riordan, Boundary Bend/Cobram Estate
COBRAM ESTATE OLIVE OIL TASTING TOUR With the quality of olive oils coming out of the 2013 season there is little wonder why sales of Australian extra virgin olive oil have grown 50% over the past 12 months. “Consumers know that by trading up to high quality, fresh, locally grown extra virgin olive oil they are getting a healthier, tastier and fresher product that the international oils just can’t deliver. Cobram Estate can certainly lay claim to being the most awarded olive oil brand in Australia and can be counted among the world’s best! PHOTOGRAPHY IVANA GATTEGNO
Pablo Canamasas from University of California at Davis and Cobram's Oil Production Technical Manager.
EVERDAY EVOOS Mealtimes are the heart and soul of the family, chefs can bring quality and freshness to the table at supermarkets across Australia and with pop-up pourers built into the bottle, wow, now that's convenient.
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NEWS FOOD PEOPLE AUSTRALIA Oscar Sharah
Lily Newton, HTN Graduate
The talented Oscar Sharah, Australian Children’s Music Foundation
James Mussak, Author/Publisher of Great Chefs of Australia Peter Howard, HTN's Official Patron
HTN YOUTH SHOWCASE EXTRAVAGANZA, AMBASSADOR ROOM
Lachlan Bowtell and Rod Andrews
Harmonious flavours, at HTN’s spectacular dinner produced excellent food, a reflection of true artistry. The name Apprentice has always been associated with our youthful talent and tonight was magical!
L-R Andrea Poletti, TAFE NSW NSI, Carol Giuseppi, AHA NSW and Tina Parker
PHOTOGRAPHY NAOKO OZAWA
HTN's CEO Michael Bennett
Jerry Bour, HTN Chairman and Bill Galvin OAM, Tourism Training Australia
Simon Marnie, Presenter from ABC Radio Paul Niddrie, Recipient of the 2013 HTN Peter Howard Culinary Scholarship and Lily Niddrie
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Guests enjoying the gala dinner
Danielle Dixon & Pierrick Boyer
DES TINATION LYON
Rachithri Fernandopulle and Mel Nathan
MC George Calombaris and John M Miller OAM
Danielle Dixon & Alain Fabregues
Members of the Bocuse d’Or Academy Australia Culinary Council
The Australian 2015 candidate Shannon Kellam
Second main course prepared by Stephen Clarke
Guests enjoying the gala dinner
UNEARTHING THE D'OR TO CULINARY EXCELLENCE, SOFITEL BRISBANE Bocuse D’Or Academy Australia threw a major fundraiser 5 course dinner at the Sofitel, Brisbane for their Academie Members and guests. It was a rare opportunity to celebrate and explore the food of some of the country’s best loved food talent! PHOTOGRAPHY EUGENE WENT
Rachithri Fernandopulle and George Calombaris
Guests with MC George Calombaris
Pierrick Boyer
George Calombaris, Pierrick Boyer & Philippe Mouchel
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EPICUREAN YOUNG GUNS
m l a C e n i s i u T c Commis chefs are dressing the plates and their manner is so cool: “Come on guys let's push it!” WORDS BY RACHI FERNANDOPULLE
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he place is filled with most of the world renowned chefs in Australia tonight ... chefs in white and black, blue and white and the red colour called the MOF ‘meilleur ouvrier de France’ “is only for chefs who have won a prestigious culinary competition in Europe”, wow I’m in my element. Half an hour before service and I’m here on the pass, it’s not chaos and screaming and shouting like most kitchens, and there are 70 per cent female chefs, which I’ve never see in European kitchens. The last minute approaches and there’s all the usual special requirement requests, tonight it’s mainly vegetarian and gluten free options, orders are coming in the last moment and as chefs we deliver these special requirements ‘a la minute'. The head chef taking photos, allocating the staff into their positions, explaining tasks, it was like the captain in a cricket match adjusting the field according to the bowler, well this is what is called organisation after all. The men in black enter the kitchen before
service with walkie-talkies just like body guards working for a president. Then a group of tonight’s presenting chefs walks into the kitchen. Amazing - each chef is in charge of creating and pushing out a particular dish tonight, we have to keep to the program, timing is the essence, and tonight everything has to be just right. The beautiful goat cheese soufflés go into the oven and the man in black says “we have another vegetarian customer” the staff getting ready with spatulas and putting on their gloves, hygiene is considered a very important factor when catering for large groups, it’s all running to clock-work. “What time is this going to start?” Chefs muttering and wait staff are impatient - finally the long awaited moment comes, one by one plates move past, each chef with their allocated task which is also called a la chaine “in French” (doing one task and passing the plate to the other ) commis chefs are dressing the plates and their manner is so cool and calm. “Come on guys let's push it!” The first course is out, the waiters look magnificent dressed in black while they walk out the plates to all the official guests, tableby-table. Everything that leaves the kitchen
Come on let’s go, are you sleeping?! Smile for the camera? Bocuse d’Or Academy Australia
foie gras plates are now being served to guests. I wander and sit down at the extravagant looking table. “Isn’t it funny how on the other side ‘the guests’ never really get to understand how much of an effort is put into preparing these nights, every element has had special care and very much eye to detail to it tonight. The Bocuse D’OR competition was created to bring chefs from different countries together and tonight it all happened so magnificently. I am leaving feeling very happy with everything. The gala dinner in Australia is just the perfect example of how all these chefs from different nationalities can work together to make an event so memorable. All the dishes and the brigade end their service tonight with pride and happiness.
Delicious desserts by Pierrick Boyer
tonight has some uniformity and attention to detail, and there’s a big man over there with owl-like eyes on every dish, no plate goes out without it looking perfect he remarks aloud. Chefs getting plates from hot boxes, it’s so important that hot food is served on hot plates adding much value to what is put on the plate. From my experience, serving food hot in any kitchen adds to the point score, so it always has to be hot! Next dish out, the foie gras is all piled up in stacks, micro herbs taken out from the fridge, chefs with microplanes ready to grate some fresh pepper and salt over the foie gras, it reminds me of this “Cooking is nothing if we didn’t use two secret ingredients and that is pepper and salt!” There is no real secret ingredient in any kitchen, but the most magical ingredient, that is my ingredient obsession, is
salt and pepper, although sometimes young chefs forget to use them. You have to keep using that tasting spoon, no matter what. Plates of foie gras are coming out and dressed with care. Philippe Mouchel, shouting: “Let’s do it chefs, push, push, push!” The head chef shouts again “Come on let’s go, are you sleeping?!” and the final touches are done and the beautiful
Rachi and George Calombaris
Rachi Fernandopulle spent two hours behind the kitchen wall at Brisbane's Sofitel to write the story.
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EPICUREAN YOUNG GUNS IN CONVERSATION WITH LILY NEWTON
A culinary life Winning gave me the opportunity to travel overseas, my culinary life is quite exciting. Born? Tweed Valley Education? HSC, Certificate III in
Commercial Cookery. Favourite cheap eat? Zanzibar in Kingscliff, it’s fresh and natural with a Moroccan twist. What keeps you going? My passion and drive and having my days off. Advice to future young chefs? Work hard, smart and fast. Be enthusiastic and persevere through the times even when you want to quit. It’s a tough world and passion can pull you through. Favourite kitchen tool? My Rational combi oven. What’s it like to win something? An incredible experience. You feel rewarded and deserving. Your hard work has paid off. Most useful cookbook? Larousse Gastronomique. Early influences? Maggie Beer and Jamie Oliver. Favourite thing about Kingscliff? Located on the north New South Wales coast, we have fantastic weather and picturesque scenery, feeling like I’m always on vacation. Career you would have pursued if you didn't become a chef? Event planning and management. On working with Peter Howard? First it was at HTN’s Youth Skills Showcase dinner extravaganza, but I feel a real camaraderie between us already. He is a valuable chef to know and look forward to working with him at future events. Career turning point? Winning the Peter Howard Culinary Scholarship. Ingredient obsession? Butter
Young chef Lily Newton
Keep the
good work
up, says Howard...
Dear Lily, I’m often being asked for advice for young chefs! The Peter Howard Culinar y Scholarship concept has been going since 2002, some travelling the globe and coming back to Australia with brilliant culinar y ideas. You are the mirror of some of the previous winners. To me, it was always your youthful, exciting enthusiasm that really shone through and evident in both your interview and your written submissions. I feel you are going to be an excellent leader – and all good leaders in their field are always naturally driven and competitive people. What became very clear from yourself and other winners of the Scholarship, was the experience you get through a ‘group training’ model. Hospitality Training Network is a conduit for young chefs who are starting out. It’s a big world out there and they will give you the opportunity to work alongside some of the best most talented chefs – it can be a pathway to success, yes. Lily, I have totally enjoyed working with you, you are fabulous! Peter Howard
Lily Newton and Peter Howard
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IN CONVERSATION WITH PATRICE FALANTIN, SOFITEL BRISBANE
Sunny
Prive 249 at Brisbane, Sofitel
s i d e u p
When you host a Bocuse D’Or event, you get to meet and look after some of Australia’s greatest chefs who bring so much skill and passion to our community. Born? Palaiseau near Paris 1967 Education? France Hotel/Restaurant Technician’s Master and Certificate in '86. Learning to cook in Languedoc, in the south of France. Home of cassoulet and home-style foods - typically pork sausages, goose, duck, mutton, pork skin (couennes) and white beans (haricots blancs). Best kitchens worked? Working in a Michelin 1 Star restaurant with 40 seats and 20 chefs in Cordes, France. Here I could envisage a fruitful career in front of me. Favourite cheap eat? Yum cha, anytime anyplace. What keeps you going? Enjoying a variety of foods, the buzz of the kitchen, creating new dishes and growing skills with my chefs. Advice to young chefs? Do it with passion to succeed, give yourself the time to learn. It will be your best financial investment. Favourite kitchen tool? My Bamix. Favourite thing about Brisbane? Weather is very good here, it affects your moods. you can’t beat that. I also enjoy culinary promotions, wine dinners, cook book launches, guest chefs from around the world and development work with younger chefs. Most useful cookbook? I have more books on mushrooms than anyone. My family got me into them, when I was a young child we travelled so much to find mushrooms,
I couldn’t travel anymore! Early influences? My mother always cooked for the family at home. Great classics such as daily soups, slow cooking roast on Sunday and fresh seafood from the market on Saturday and enjoying langoustines. On classic vs modern cuisine? I am definitely French traditional. These dishes are full of memories for me from my catering school to local seasonal dishes like game food and wild mushrooms. Career you would have pursued if you didn't become a chef? Haute couture is fashion that is constructed by hand, it’s without the use of sewing machines and overlockers from start to finish, made from high quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail. To compliment my hands skill and creative flair. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Early education with food, cuisine at home, inspire by home gardening, making the real food products much cheaper than processed foods. Career turning point? Becoming an executive chef at 33. Favourite sport? No time for sport! Ingredient obsession? Salt and pepper. Purveyor tip? If you don’t need it don’t buy it!
When I came to A ustralia a fter London I saw two months stra ight of sunny weather! FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 67
EPICUREAN YOUNG GUNS
Future in
Good Hands says Pignolet...
A great lunch, with fine food, great company and great conversation with Australian chef, Damien Pignolet who regaled FCI’s Mel Nathan and Nick Gardener of Tetsuya’s and James Barrett, of Glebe Point Diner with stories from years of experience in the food world. Dear James and Nick, The future of our craft is in the hands of chefs like these and while a passion to cook is generally cited as paramount for a successful career, those who’ll reach the top will master or have the willingness to learn the skills of managing staff, controlling costs and most importantly, inspiring the next generation of young chefs. I think you have both worked hard to advance your careers. James, you’re now head chef of Glebe Point Diner and Nick you have won the coveted 2013 Josephine Pignolet Award. Winners over the past 21 years have included; Mark Best, Damian Heads, James Parry and Daniel Puskas with most achieving remarkable success. Brett Graham, the winner of the 2000 award now holds two Michelin stars at London’s Ledbur y Hotel. So congratulations again to you both. Respecting your purveyors is essential to achieve the finest in quality dishes. But creatin g a splendid dish is only as good as having the best of ingredients plus a devoted team. I believe these young men are a critical part of a spectacular future for Australian cuisine. Damien Pignolet
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Pride Of Place IN CONVERSATION WITH JAMES BARRETT, GLEBE POINT DINER Born? Australia. Education? HSC, Certificate lll Commercial
Cookery. Best kitchens worked? Rockpool, Rockpool Bar and Grill and Glebe Point Diner. Favourite cheap eat? Spice I Am. What keeps you going? My drive and ambition. Advice to future young chefs? Follow your head. Favourite kitchen tool? My mind. Most controversial menu item? Venison tartar with schug and iceberg. Favourite thing about Sydney? Usually, the weather. How you come across opportunities? Hard work and good luck. Most useful cookbook? Larousse Gastronomique. Early influences? My mother’s home cooked meals. On classic vs modern cuisine? My heart is in the past, but I am in the present. Career you would have pursued if you didn’t become a chef? A Barrister. To follow in my father’s footsteps. Describe the lunch with Damien Pignolet? In my seventh heaven! It was such a privilege to hear a chef speak so passionately and eloquently about his past cooking and life experiences. Career turning point? Becoming head chef. Favourite sport? Rugby Union. Ingredient obsession? Beetroot. Purveyor tip? Be kind to your purveyors if you want the best.
An intimate meal with one of your favourite chef idols doesn't happen every day. Thank you Chef!
Lily Newton and Peter Howard
For some great reading; The French Laundry, is a beautiful piece of work. Now, I'm loving Eleven Madison Park.
Inspiration In The Spotlight IN CONVERSATION WITH NICK GARDENER, (FORMERLY TETSUYA'S NOW WORKING AROUND EUROPE) Born? The beautiful coastal town of Forster, NSW in 87. Best kitchens worked? The French Laundry. A beautiful, old building in napa’s wine
country with an open-plan, immaculately clean kitchen, facing a garden. It’s filled with everything a chef could dream of and in the kitchen, copper - lots of it. What keeps you going? It’s the love I have for cooking and being able to create art on a plate each day. Advice for future young chefs? Stick through the tough times, work hard, write everything down, put yourself out there to help others, learn from mistakes, taste everything, find your inner drive to be a chef, cook with love and passion. Favourite kitchen tool? My vegetable turning knife, I love prepping vegetables, and it works, for turning, peeling, scratching and trimming. Most controversial menu item? A special dish with shark fin, beautiful. Most useful cookbook? Modernist cuisine. A good understanding of the science behind cooking and the changes the food undergoes when modified. Early influences? Michele Bras, Pierre Gagnaire, Liam Tomlin and Alain Passard. On classic vs modern cuisine? Classic style to me, is about using simple ingredients to produce amazing food, whereas the modern style of cooking is science-driven using emerging techniques and new and rediscovered ingredients. Classic cooking is all about the flavour of the food, whereas modern cuisine although exciting, can sometimes be lost with all the smoke and mirrors. I like a mix of both. Career turning point? Moving to Sydney from the country and getting a 2nd year apprenticeship start at Quay. A whole new world of cooking in a busy world class restaurant. Ingredient obsession? Cheese and bread. FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 69
YOUNGIN GUNS CONVERSATION
WITH DREW BOLTON, BAROQUE, SYDNEY
At Drew Bolton’s restaurant, excellent food is a reflection of true artistry
Potty about pepper Learn your craft inside out and work very hard is my advice to young chefs. PHOTOGRAPHS BY DARREN PURBRICK Born? Sydney Education? Apprenticeship and Sydney TAFE. Best kitchens worked? Quay, Aria, Darley’s, Le Bernardin, New York. Favourite cheap eat? The local Chinese Ding Tai Fung. What keeps you going? The desire to keep getting better and improve keeps me
going – and Red Bull! Favourite kitchen tool? At the moment my truffle slicer, the truffles this year were incredible. Most controversial menu item? Glazed cock’s comb. Favourite thing about Sydney? The cultural diversity… it makes for lots of great places to eat. Most useful cookbook? Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras. Early influences? My Father. On classic vs modern cuisine? Somewhere in the middle. Career you would have pursued if you didn't become a chef? Food critic. How 70 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Creating inspiring dishes will make more young chefs excited about cooking in the food world. Career turning point? Running my own kitchen. Favourite sport? Rugby union. Ingredient obsession? Pepper of Espelette. This pepper is so famous that it has been given a protected designation by the European Union, ensuring that only peppers grown in the Espelette region may be labeled as “piment d'Espelette”. Designed to protect the heritage and integrity of the unique pepper, commonlyused ingredient in Basque food. Purveyor tip? Develop good relations with them, they are the ones that will help you when you need them the most.
RECIPE
Coal roasted ‘paroo’ kangaroo strip loin from south-west, NSW with a macadamia and hazelnut crust, braised tail and cannelloni of parsley root, celeriac and Jerusalem artichoke. RECIPE BY DREW BOLTON, RECIPE IMAGE BY DON ARNOLD Serves 8
INGREDIENTS / METHOD KANGAROO 8 x 200g Paroo kangaroo striploins 50g macadamia nuts 50g hazelnuts Prep the kangaroo by removing any excess sinew and trimming into a nice even steak. Reserve at room temperature until ready to cook. KANGAROO TAIL CANNELLONI 2 Paroo kangaroo tails 1 litre veal stock 100ml red wine 1 carrot 1 brown onion 2 garlic cloves ½ bunch of thyme 50g cornichons 1 bunch of parsley 1 preserved lemon 8 dried cannelloni shells Caramelise the tails in a hot pan until golden. Remove any excess oil and add the carrot, onion, garlic and thyme and stir to lightly colour. Deglaze with red wine and reduce, then add the veal stock and bring to a boil. Cover with foil and place in the oven at 150C for 2-3 hours or until very tender. Remove the tails and allow to cool slightly.
TO SERVE Strain the cooking liquor and reduce to a glaze. When the tail is cool enough to handle, strip the meat from the bone and mix in the reduced cooking liquor. Dice the cornichons, parsley and the preserved lemon rind and mix into the tail meat. Season to taste. Blanch the cannelloni shells until al dente and refresh. Carefully pipe the tail mixture into the cannelloni and reserve in the fridge. ARTICHOKE, PARSLEY ROOT AND CELERIAC CANNELONI 200g celeriac 200g parsley root 400g Jerusalem artichoke 8x dried cannelloni shells Dice the celeriac, parsley root and 200g of the Jerusalem artichoke into 5mm cubes. Blanch them individually in boiling salted water until just tender but still with a little crunch. Cook the remaining artichokes in boiling water, when still warm peel them and puree the flesh until thick and smooth. Combine the cooked vegetables with the puree and season to taste. Cook the cannelloni shells in the same way as for the kangaroo cannelloni, sill them and set aside in the fridge.
The striploin is cooked over binchotan charcoal in a traditional Japanese bbq. You start by heating up the charcoal until glowing red hot. Place inside the bbq and begin to cook the striploin. Periodically, add some paperbark to the bbq and let it smoke. This will give a fantastic flavour and aroma to the kangaroo. Turn the meat regularly for 8-10 mins until the flesh is bouncy to the touch. allow to rest for 15mins in a warm place. Using a steamer, gently reheat the cannelloni s and place on the plate. Garnish the cannelloni with bronze fennel and wild sorrel. To plate, crust the kangaroo striploin with the macadamia and hazelnuts on top. Garnish the kangaroo with native violas and sliced radish. Enjoy!
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 71
CHEFS CLUB YOUNGEXECUTIVE GUNS
THE PARK HYATT, SYDNEY
Executive
Fest
Swapping ideas, learning about beautiful products and socialising at The Park Hyatt, Sydney was fun, writes Gary Johnson.
I
’ve always enjoyed attending the Executive Chefs Club events. The members who are executive chefs are hardly aware they belong to it, until they are invited. There are no formal meetings, no badges, no subscriptions. But what the members do have in common is an all-absorbing interest in good food and good cooking, a generous willingness to tell others what they know about some of the country’s best producers and purveyors with an eagerness to learn what they can in turn. It’s informative and engaging, but not too formal. Nespresso’s Sydney Park Hyatt event was no exception. Incidentally; I’ve never missed one. While working at Sydney Hilton a few years ago we talked about doing one for a bit of fun. We had a great turn out and Luke Mangan did the afternoon tea for us. One meeting led to another and since then, the camaraderie among the guys has been fantastic and growing ever stronger. Five years later and it’s turned into a regular event, featuring some of Sydney’s finest chefs who collectively feed thousands and thousands of mouths at once, 72 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
and who have the buying and decision-making powers to change the way we cook and eat. The Club has become a casual but professional new meeting place for the executive chef. We learn, mingle and experiment with ingredients, be taught about new food trends and see new machines and toys first-hand. We get to network and it’s fun and relaxing. Ten years ago it was quite common for chefs to catch up, but with more and more executive chefs not cooking behind their stoves any more and instead making more profits for their hotels and restaurants; it’s got harder and harder to get out and meet all of the other Sydney chefs. International hotels around the world have become really competitive, we’ve had to learn how to be more efficient with portions and control wastage. In the old days it was not so commonplace to share all your secrets but, now we’re getting out of our hotels, getting to see more of Sydney, comparing notes, and the only thing like the old times is you can still enjoy a fine meal with a guy who’s your opposition down the road, yeah but it works. We love the backstage kitchen tours, discussing ideas or systems with each other, combined with a lunch in the middle of a kitchen served on big
Gary Johnson, eExecutive chef of Spirit Hotels “Nespresso keeps me going!” Gavin McKevitt, Sydney says Executive chef, Entertainment Centre andJohnson Eddie Cofie Gary
tables; family style. It’s also a great forum for some of the best of the best purveyors and producers. You’ll find us mainly in kitchens for a long lunch or dinner, exotic and always something international. Swapping ideas and socialising this way is fun. You meet the most interesting chefs! Thanks again Nespresso for the wonderful dinner and enjoyment, and the coffee machine and aeroccino milk steamer you provided us all with.
Thanks again Nespresso for the wonderful dinner and enjoyment, and the coffee machine you provided us with...
YOUNG GUNS
Tamas Pamer, Exec Chef Intercontinental, Sydney with Fabien Berteau and Andrew McKee
Nespresso’s Renaud Tinel, Eva Caprile with Christophe Gantzer and Andrew McKee
Gavin McKevitt, Sydney Entertainment Centre and Eddie Cofie
Mark Wright, Etihad Stadium, Melbourne, Mel Nathan, Nespresso’s Eva Caprile and Kazi Hassan
TRIED & TESTED
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Jonathan Bruell
BARRISTA EXPERIENCE
UNIQUE MILK FROTH
Aguila combines the traditional barista experience with the latest technology and answers all the coffee demands of high volume establishments through its unique milk froth solution. At the touch of a button, you can prepare bespoke hot and cold coffee beverages to delight all your customers.
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Renaud Tinel
Carl Middleton, Sydney Hilton
Jess Ong, Four Season, Sydney
FCI’S VERDICT ON THE AGUILA
Professional barista tradition perfected by state of the art technology.
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GM Andrew Mensforth of Park Hyatt, Sydney
DIRECT WATER CONNECTION
Aguila can keep 5L of milk in its container refrigerated at 4C. The mashine also has an electronic “capsule container full” indicator.
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BREAKDOWNS
The “fail-safe” feature of the machine allows one part of the machine to be repaired while the other part continues to work.
THERE ARE SO MANY DELICIOUS RECIPES
Four extraction heads work simultaneously, enabling front-of-house personnel to create customised beverages.
MILK BASED RECIPES
Espresso, Macchiato, Cappuccino, Latte and Iced Coffee. The Aguila creates all these recipes at the touch of a button.
PREPARING MILK
The Aguila’s milk preparations include hot milk froth, cold milk froth, hot milk, cold milk and hot water.
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GOURMET COFFEES
The exceptional Nespresso Grand Crus have been carefully selected from the world’s finest coffees. They have a unique character that embodies the variety of different origins and aromas. FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 73
EPICUREAN YOUNG GUNS
Palate Pacifier
I
was a guest at one sought-after event – a dinner hosted by Nespresso for some of the best Sydney executive chefs at the Hyatt, Sydney. Mel Nathan the publisher and editor-in-chief of Food Companion International Magazine, had been informing me of some of the recent activities of the Executive Chefs Club that the magazine had initiated a few years ago, and I wanted to be a part of it. To explain - It’s an interactive group of high rolling chefs that enables communication on an international platform. They can relax and enjoy each others company and exchange views on recent cuisine trends, the club a sought-after group - good if you can get to be a part of it. To my happiness and surprise, I had the pleasure of sitting with Spirit Hotels Gary Johnson, the executive chef. We talked about how now in Australia Nespresso seems to play a big part in the Australian hotel and restaurant market over a charming dinner prepared by the executive chef of the Hyatt. The truth is, we only really know about Turkish coffee and Turks are spoilt by their coffee and somehow we thought it just bypasses the other coffee tastes. But by the end of the event, I was totally converted and become a Nespresso fan. I carried the very generous gift a Nespresso Pixie 74 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Gary Johnson, Sevil Oren, Eddie Cofie, Eva Caprile and Oswin Ribeiro
Whenever I visit Sydney from
ISTANBUL, I come across some culinary surprise… this time the surprise came as ‘coffee delight’ writes Sevil Oren.
coffee machine and Aeroccino milk frother back to Turkey with me. With the idea of introducing this new exquisite elegant taste to our clients in our offices in Istanbul was an exciting thing. I’ve been telling all my industry friends about the marvellous restaurant style coffee machine Aguila, it’s a product of all the latest technology by Nespresso, and quite a different coffee experience to the coffee lovers I know over here. Amazing, I thought as maybe it might be the end of the barrista era. Finally, I can say that Nespresso Aguila is like a good orchestrated symphony, that activates your taste buds, leaving them contented and happily satisfied.
Nespresso Aguila is like a good orchestrated symphony, that activates your taste buds, leaving them contented and happily satisfied
YOUNG GUNS
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 75
EPICUREAN
Ice Werner One can hear every stroke on the ice going clean around the shapes, the ice seemingly soft as butter but solid as a rock.
H
WORDS BY WERNER KIMMERINGER ow should we compare the performance of an Olympic athlete running the 100 metres below 10 seconds and the blind runner excelling at 12 seconds? For sure both deserve an Olympic medal. Some of the emotions a competitor experiences every time when Culinary Art in Colombo comes around. You have to visit the place to really get an understanding of the huge buzz, the excitement and commitment of every competitor who competes including hundreds of ice carvings alone. I have never mastered an ice carving myself, but I have learnt from the great masters over the years, the eye for the skill, the passion and the art of it. Previously a judge at Gulf Food with the Dubai Chefs Guild where ice carving events are held every year, chefs can see the ‘world’s best’ single and team entries. The stage is set in perfect condition with the water and ice disappearing straight through the floor of a large centre stage with hundreds of visitors watching from a safe distance in 22°C air-conditioning. You will get to see six competitors mastering ‘best quality’ clear large blocks into three dimensional creations within one hour with super sharp tools (almost like 76 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
a set of golf clubs) from the best quality. The team events create spectacular sculptures one storey high. One can hear every stroke on the ice going clean around the shapes, the ice seemingly soft as butter but solid as a rock. It is the decision by the artist to go for maximum skills and risks, making the base thin with four tiny legs and adding three dimensional wings last minute. One wrong move with the carving tool, one little knock by the artist or a piece of ice will break the masterpiece and the show is over. Judging can be a challenge and sometimes there is little difference between artists and their ice carving. Degree of difficulty (three dimensional), the balance and natural appearance of the sculpture, the amount of ice removed, the flow of the artists’ stokes, which highlights the quality and sharpness of his tools will be the decider after sometimes heated discussions by the three judges. So, back to Colombo. We are at 30-plus degrees with a truck backing up to the convention building and once all the ice artists are ready the door opens and the ice blocks are quickly allocated to each competitor. We are outside, trestle tables bending and rocking under the weight of the ice and we have 14 artists ready to attack this huge ice block. Much smaller than Dubai in size, but much more difficult to work on and to achieve the depth and quality. Most carvers have not more than three tools and some only use one tool for the whole process. Some are very inventive and have come up with their own
homemade devices from saws to screwdrivers. It is hard work and you can see the sweat in every stroke and as judges, we are constantly concerned about keeping them hydrated and safe in these conditions, including the hundreds of spectators who are close to the action. The artist has to be sure what he wants to achieve. His judgement of time and heat are the most important factors as he needs to include the melting ice factor which naturally occurs. Remembering that the melting process will not be even and the thinner parts will always melt faster and therefore change the appearance of the sculpture – and once the ice is gone you cannot put it back. If competitors don’t remove enough of the ice, the sculpture looks bulky and has no finesse. As judges we sometimes see the worst conditions but we still see some wonderful creations. Once we get over the many carved elephants and birds we see some very well balanced bodies with great flow, two blocks high with a touch of three dimensional techniques. Then it becomes a situation where the judges need to race to judge the entry before it crashes into pieces due to the heat and every time you hear the crowd roar, you know another one just collapsed!
Is it a dying art? Absolutely not, in countries like the middle East and Asia it is booming. The art is not practiced much here and in fact few chefs have ice carving skills. It isn't taught in culinary and cooking schools. Like a trade, the skill is usually handed down from another chef, craftsman to the apprentice. 20 years ago in hotels like Hilton, Sydney, they all had Kitchen Artists. Individuals who were assigned to creating works of art in either a decoration for the hotel lobby cafe and to mark occasions like Christmas, Easter, a Salon Culinaire, a chocolate sculpture, a foam or an ice carving. The kitchen artist would be given a photo, “Here’s a photo, try replicating this!” Occasionally some of them would work their way into a Sous chef position.
YOUNG GUNS
Ice carvings are generally linked to special or extravagant events because of their limited lifetimeâ&#x20AC;Ś Former chefs like Werner Kimmeringer was lucky to learn the art of ice carving but he turned and focussed on other things. Today he is still a certified judge and on the preferred world judging list.
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 77
IN CONVERSATION WITH JAMES MUSSAK
Kitchen dreaming If I never became a chef I would have been a sculpture artiste, a painter or violin dealer. Born? Frauenfeld, Switzerland [meaning women’s field in the
industrial town] in 1946 Best kitchens worked? Sebel Town House Sydney, Ansett Airlines, and my own Swiss tavern restaurant in Sydney and Manila, Philippines. What keeps you going? My family, and culinary VIP friends from all over the world. Advice to future young chefs? If things get tough, keep it going, it will get better and it will be worthwhile. Favourite kitchen tools? My Swiss Victorinox knives. Most controversial menu item? Putting a garnished cooked pig’s head at Linda Ronstadt’s bed-table, ordered by singer Rod Stewart, staying at the Sebel Town House many moons ago. Favourite thing about Sydney? Sydney Harbour, the Bridge, the Opera House, above which I got married (as the first chef in the world) in a Jet-Ranger Helicopter, 32 years ago.
I've made so many friends through my cheese and chocolate fondues than any other social gathering in my life! Most useful cookbook? My own four published cookbooks. The large amount of recipes and menus collection I have collected and harnessed in prestigious presented Table-Top books, from my culinary friends who are working in all parts (countries) over the world. Early influences? As an apprentice chef I was taught by Swiss Executive chef Ernst Raurich, he was the opening chef for the Nile-Hilton Hotel in Cairo, and Leo Elsener, a Swiss Fondue Restaurant owner in Copenhagen. He was also a cookbook and culinary article writer for the Danish Daily press; “Dag Blade” I was his executive chef (I was only 20 years old) cooking for a packed house for over two years. On classic vs modern cuisine? Classic recipe menus will never age, they will always be found in any part in the world on menus. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? By having role-models like myself ha ha. The world of cheffing shouldn’t stop you from pursuing your dreams just because you are producing good food on a hot stove. On my cooking career? The turning point was becoming an executive chef with the airlines then to a restaurant owner, career cookery teacher, then to a full time chef recruitment business owner and cook book producer. Favourite sport? Golf and weightlifting. I put my weight on as many bar-stools seats I can all over the world. Ingredient obsession? Gruyere and Emmenthaler cheese.
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IN CONVERSATION WITH TAMAS PAMER INTERCONTINENTAL, SYDNEY
however I could not exist without my spatula. It is now about 15 years old and was the first spatula I ever had. It’s been my companion since I was a apprentice chef. A great tool and always reminds me where I came from. Most controversial menu item? Veal head. Using a traditional recipe from the south of Germany to cook it, taking about 12 hours on low heat with aromatics until jellifying the protein on the bone. Pressing it, cutting it and pan frying it. Great taste, and texture. Favourite thing about Sydney? Produce. It is incredibly good and there is always something new to discover. Career you would have pursued if you didn't become a chef? Chef. Early influences? My mum and Aunty. Our family would go on summer holidays to visit our Aunty who grew her own vegetables, chickens, ducks and pork. We would slaughter two pigs up to 250kg every year. The animals grazed on natural food and just leftovers from the family. They were beautiful animals growing up in a relaxed environment. The men were responsible for the carcass breakdown, the women were in charge of creating the
We have turned a simple cup of coffee into an captivating dining experience
Ahead of the game Working in a Michelin Star environment is hard, but a great lesson for life. Born? Budapest, Hungary Education? Certificate 4 in cookery and Culinary instructor. What keeps you going? My mother always taught us to respect produce and use wisely the time
you take to prep food. I have always lived this way and have spring in my step each time I enter the kitchen. My brigade gives me an endless amount of energy; we work hard, have fun and share many stories. Advice to future young chefs? Learn your basics well. Work hard and it will pay off one day. Favorite kitchen tools? I love my dehydrator/Vitamix XL Blender
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“I loved Yusef’s Infused cinnamon and ginger chocolate Crème Brûlée” Mel Nathan
off-cuts into Hungarian specialties such as Salami, Kolbasz (Hungarian dry sausage). 95% of the carcass was used. Great early influences about honest food made with lots of care. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? Since I’m a chef I have seen similar inspirations for talents to join the chef word. The life style and independency from the family, getting out of normality and having passion about produce and food. Where new talents occur, some of them are missing out on the attraction of it as being long-term chef. Making the right choices in the different step of the career path is Important. Decisions such as aiming for a higher salary or for a higher position or the choice to take a job in a famous restaurant and commit two years of hard work to it. A life changing decision takes lots of mentoring, coaching, and keeping the talents engaged in the food world, it is imperative. We already have so many good chefs around however we are not spending enough time with them in our busy lives, to give them long term goals and help them along the way. Giving them realistic options to the skill set they have and not over promoting them whilst we can be afraid of losing them. Career turning point? Getting out from my home country Hungary, and working in a Michelin Star environment. Hard but great lesson for life. Favourite sport? Running helps to keep my mind clear. Ingredient obsession? Spices. Feels like sometimes the younger generation is losing their connection to them. Everyone knows molecular cuisine or how to use jellification. But not many young chefs know about spices and how to use them. Purveyor tip? Support local, artisan producers so they can develop themselves and the product.
A modern twist on the classic afternoon tea
High coffee Mel Nathan finds Sydney's Intercontinental is serving up more than a caffeine shot. Individually the presentation was really good, innovative and fresh. I thought the crepes, waffles, condiments and sorbet were all excellent, it sure filled us up. Thanks again. Are we still on the menu – it seems like more, for $55 this is great value. I loved Yusef’s New York style scones. As a general point, wait staff were excellent, great communicators and Vicki was so pleasant and friendly, juggling other tables explaining each course in the most articulate way, the hotel has mastered that. Tamas worked the degustation to the palate weight and flavour so well and I will certainly take my husband there soon. Men will love this occasion. BOOKINGS Afternoon High Coffee The Cortile, Sydney Intercontinental 117 Macquarie Street, Sydney PHONE +61 (0)2 9240 1396 FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 81
EPICUREAN
Compliments to the chef RATIONAL is
whipping up culinary magic in some of the world’s top kitchens and breathing new life into Australian cuisine.
Growth, stability and profit are not our aims. They are our results! say’s Rational’s Mark Sweeting.
F
ood Companion International gathered some of the Executive Chefs to Sydney to talk about Rational’s whitefficiency at the Executive Chefs Club hosted by Executive Chef, Oswin Ribeiro. Unfortunately there can be a stigma among Chefs about the word regenerate. “I don’t reheat food, I cook fresh!’’ they cry. In the early days when Sweeting was a Chef, he was also a non-believer, having been subject to the same conditioning during his training and seeing the results first hand. Up until a few years ago the only option to deliver meals en masse was either to employ a huge team of chefs and go at it commando style with surgical precision. If all the planets were aligned and the Moon was not in Jupiter you could pull off some amazing feats of culinary wizardry. Or the other option available was specialised heating cabinets to reheat food in bulk or plated. Unfortunately most of the effort, love and care that went into the preparation, production and menu planning went backwards as soon as you closed the regeneration cabinet door and sent the food on its journey down the 45 minute reheat path to enlightenment. It was symbolic
of closing the lid on a coffin: you knew that the food would be drained of all life. As if by magic the food that you gave so much love to came out of the process often overcooked, welded to the plate, and the aroma was close to that of my socks after a 14 hour shift. Back in the 1980s because of the lack of control and technology we had to include some amazing preparation secrets that would blow the mind of today’s HACCP devotees. This was regeneration. However, the introduction of the patented Rational Clima control system over 10 years ago has given the chefs the precise control they need at their fingertips to create the perfect environment. The process of “Plates Banquet under the “Finishing” function key of the Rational SelfCooking Centre, allows the operator to select the environment that will gently bring food back up to a hot, safe serving temperature without further cooking, this could be in bulk, individually plated (a-la carte), bulk plated (banquet), bakery items or crisping up sliced pork roast. Imagine, Breakfasts from 10 to 4000 with perfect runny poached eggs, glistening bacon, crispy hash browns that you didn’t have to get up at 4.30am to cook. We have installations that use the system for 30 meals a day and many applications in between through to a Rational system that can cater for up to 6500 pax. Another great aspects of the Rational “Finishing” system is that existing Rational customers can implement the system with the introduction of a Rational Plate Rack and insulated cover. We are not taking jobs from Chefs, we are giving them back time and the ability to create the perfect meal presentation instead of standing on a hot line at 8.30 on a busy night when they could be out enjoying a meal with friends!
Chefs can do amazing things with whitefficiency... 82 82 | FOOD | FOOD COMPANION COMPANION INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL
We’re combining pleasure and efficiency at the same time says Rational’s David Elsum.
TRIED & TESTED
RATIONAL SELFCOOKING CENTER® WHITEFFICIENCY® generation of chefs, almost like understanding how to use it in a flash. One thing I like about Apple is that it doesn’t come with a manual as you already know how to use it. Rational have picked up on the same concept – so if you already understand this technology you will understand ‘whitefficiency’. I am a big fan of Rational.
to maximise their creativity in our business. Yes it was excellent very informative and now has rational in my mind we have already submitted a quote for a twenty tray white efficiency series.
4UWE HABERMEHL
1GARY JOHNSON, SPIRIT HOTELS
Everybody is so conscious about electricity prices in the future. 5 years ago it might have been comparable but now as more people convert to gas – with a new attitude towards efficiency and conservation we need to be assured that whatever we’re using will and can save dollars as well. Gas usage is around 3 to 1 – but electricity costs twice as much. The touch pad on the ‘whitefficiency’ was just marvellous. For ease of use – it ticks all the boxes for me. Sliding your finger across going from one step to the next, just like you do with your I-Phone was impressive. This product will be suited especially to the younger
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SAM BURKE, EXECUTIVE CHEF
Alliance Catering has always had a strong relationship with Rational. Their products are strong reliable and easy to maintain making it a perfect partner for our chefs
3JOHN DEANE,
EXECUTIVE CHEF OF ANZ STADIUM
Rational has in my view always been the oven of choice for reliability and quality, we have 3 of them and a new ‘whitefficiency’ on the way!
To be competitive you need technology and this is what Rational offers its chefs. Combi’s like whitefficiency, you have to play with the technology, break it in, build your trust with it, work with the different programs and push your combi to the limit. Regeneration has its niche in the market, ok and some things you just can’t do. Chefs need to embrace technology to keep moving forward. You should always be thinking about a smaller footprint in the kitchen to promote more bums in seats. Like without my I-Phone I would be lost in business without it!
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 83
Boiling, frying and deep frying all in 1unit Maximum productivity - 200°C in 2 minutes • Cook up to 4 times faster* • 40% less power consumption • Save 30% space and 10% food
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FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 85
IN CONVERSATION WITH OSWIN RIBEIRO, RADISSON BLU PLAZA HOTEL, SYDNEY
Preppers always prosper The diversity of Indian food is awesome! Every region I travelled to had its own unique style and it’s still a developing nation. India is broken into two, the northern part is wheat oriented and the south is all about rice. Advice to future young chefs? Discipline, Chef Robeiro has created a crescendo of Indian tastes that can be matched with an inspired range of teas. A little basic knowledge will help you strike the right notes.
The Executive Chefs Club is a fantastic networking event for the professional chef. great hosting one, the turnout was amazing, plenty of Executive Chefs! 86 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
time management, speed and respect your uniform. It’s not just some styled garment, every aspect of being a chef has a purpose. Master the basics first before you experiment with alternative styles, know every ingredient’s characteristic and properties. Never trust written recipes until you have tried and questioned every aspect of it, aim to be the best in your class. Cooking is not just a job which is to be forgotten once you are out of it, but maintaining your passion is vital. just like an artist the more you cook the more you know food the better you will get and lastly, listen to every critic of your food positively, as without them you would cook for no one. Do TV chefs give the right impression? Our profession has always been highly regarded, but now it’s even more highly regarded, thanks to shows like Master Chef. TV has made the role of a chef more glamorous than ever. Newcomers often get the wrong impression though, if they’re OK with a rude shock of working ungodly hours. Learn to care for your equipment first, knife skills and the prep involved. Every young chef should first understand the background and hard work that today’s master chefs have put in to be where they are today. Have your food trends changed in five years? With cuisines and styles we’re sticking to the basics, keeping quality of produce high on priority, organic, sustainability, low carbon foot print produce, using more local foods and applying an overall healthier cooking methodology to my everyday life with value for money offerings. Your produce philosophy? Local is best! Do you go for organic or it doesn’t matter? I do use organic produce as an offering here sometimes. I have my own vegetable and herb garden at home. What do you get up to when you’re not cooking? Spending time with my
family my daughter Zoeya and wife Onaiza, they mean the world to me. I have given up on all my hobbies since they came into my life. Are there things that you would recommend for average non-cooks when they come home and they want to cook something? Plan it out for the week. Cook fresh daily not for the week. The trick is to prep for the week but cook on the day. Trust me it does not take more than ½ an hour to produce a great meal for the family when everything is prepped and ready to go.
Fabulous spices Exotic spices can be used with High teas, hearty or delicate according to its style.
Brent Savage
New historic CBD home for Bentley restaurant and bar One of Australia’s renowned restaurants, opened the doors of its new grand dining room in Sydney’s CBD in December. For chef Brent Savage and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt, the new restaurant housed in the historic Radisson Blu hotel building, it is the crowning achievement in their eight year partnership. www.thebentley.com.au
Small courses Indian accents are accentuated by a truly superb afternoon tea with Chef Ribeiro. MENU BY OSWIN RIBEIRO
SAVOURY
SWEET
ALOO DOSAI Mini crisp fermented rice pancakes, filled with light tempered potatoes, flavoured with yellow mustard seeds, cumin, hint of asafoetida and curry leaf. Kheema parathas Bite sized roti bread stuffed with slow cooked lamb mince, flavoured with a hint of ginger, garlic, and coriander.
SANAA Also known as cotton bread, Steamed, toddy fermented red rice bread with a sweet taste served with reduced coconut cream and Cinnamon infused mango relish.
KATI ROLL Paper thin wheat bread cooked on an inverted wok, wrapped on yogurt marinated chicken tenderloins cooked in a tandoor for a smoky aroma. PANEER PURI Grated Indian cottage cheese with turmeric, fresh coriander, fine diced peppers filled in a crisp hollow hand-made traditional tart shell.
SHAHI TUKRA An Indian version of the bread pudding but only crispier, prepared with reduced sweetened milk, dry fruits and silver leaf.
Indian Chai Tea
SEVIYAN KHEER Mini shots of light sweetened milk, vermicelli, almonds, saffron. BESAN LADOOS Roasted chickpea flour, cooked with ghee, sugar, cardamom powder and raisins, shaped into mini spheres SRIKHAND Reduced milk custard, flavoured with black cardamom, Chironji nuts
Around the High Tea table... Our High Teas will set your mouth watering with adorable pastries and delicious aromas that are full of colour and creativity.
HIGH TEAS AT RADISSON BLU Cost $50 10am to 6pm 27 Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connell St Sydney NSW 2000 For Bookings call (02) 8214 0000
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EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB RADISSON BLU PLAZA HOTEL, SYDNEY
Richard Kalina
WORDS BY CHOPINMYSAUCEPAN PHOTOGR APHY BY FELIX HALTER
Cuisine adventurers What do chefs, gourmet purveyors and producers talk about at the dining table? You should think the last thing on their minds would be food seeing they work with food all day.
I
am attending the Executive Chefs Club meeting organised by Mel Nathan, Publishing Editor of Food Companion International and hosted by Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel in Sydney’s CBD. It is a gathering of executive chefs, food world professionals, food farmers and growers. “We have a very exciting agenda”, Mel tells me. “To start with the lively chef’s table will include discussions 88 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
about fresh oysters from various oyster farming regions in New South Wales, South Australia and Tasmania”, she adds with an enthusiastic cheer. Upon arrival, I notice a campaign to minimise food wastage by the New South Wales government on Environment, Climate Change and Water is also on the cards. Executive chef of Unilever Food Solutions Mark Bayliss is standing by to explain in detail the initiative that addresses food wastage, malnutrition, poverty, water scarcity and climate change. This is a great initiative to
educate the food industry professionals about ways to minimise food wastage and achieve better yields with their food. It is a sad truth there are a billion hungry people in the world and all of them could be fed on less than a quarter of the food that people in the developed world throw away into their bins. Yet, over half the food produced in the world today is lost, wasted or discarded as a result of inefficiencies in managing the food production chain. (
continued on page 90)
Rational's Paul Gruar
Gold Coast Tiger Prawns from Queensland
Host Oswin Ribeiro of Radisson BLU rolled out a delicious afternoon for the chefs.
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 89
EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB RADISSON BLU PLAZA HOTEL, SYDNEY
( continued from page 88) It is indeed a sober reminder for chefs to be more vigilant in avoiding food wastage. It is appropriate that the Executive Chefs Club meeting starts with a briefing by Mark Bulley from Hasting River Oysters about sustainable oyster farming and harvesting techniques as well as how to shuck and eat fresh oysters. Being a seafood mecca, Sydney is a paradise for seafood lovers. And if you love oysters, you will be thrilled to know there are at least thirty major oyster farms dotted all along the New South Wales coastline, farming and harvesting millions of tonnes of oysters each year. This does not take into account some of the smaller farms in the region. Apart from Sydney Rock oysters which have a more intense flavour, I also love the Pacific oysters from Coffin Bay in South Australia. Unlike the Sydney Rock which is smaller and yellowish, each Coffin Bay oyster is plump and fat in appearance with its creamy texture that lingers in the mouth. Freshly shucked oysters from Hasting River in NSWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s north coast The fresh oysters from Hasting River are creamy and briny with the distinctive taste of the sea. They are simply delicious and irresistible with a dash of tobasco and a squeeze of lemon juice. I love oysters with a crisp and dry Riesling. In a casual chat with Mark Bulley, he tells me the oysters are also great when washed down with a full flavoured beer. I could not agree with him more as I sample an icy cold John Boston Premium Lager with my oysters. Kevin McAsh, chairman of the NSW Growers Association Oyster Committee seems to be in full concurrence with Mark Bulley where a beer in one hand and an oyster in the other seem to be the only way to go. I always admire the deft skill of the oyster shucker using just a small knife to shuck fresh oysters faster than I can eat them. The cooked Gold Coast Tiger Prawns from
90 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Krystle Cummings, Rational chef at Executive Chefs Club, Radisson BLU
Queensland must be some of the best natural tasting prawns that never cease to impress no matter how many I have eaten. Thanks to seafood providores all over Sydney, these prawns are now readily available in many local seafood shops, supermarkets such as Coles, Woolworths and last but not least the famous Sydney Fish Markets. Not to be outdone by their food counterparts, Curtis York and Michael York from Quittinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Time are on hand to give attendees a taste of a variety of aged rums. Curtis used to be an IT professional who made a 180 degree change in his career and has never looked back in starting up a company that distributes niche products. ( continued on page 94)
Mark Baylis, Markus Perkert and Carl Middleton
The chefs seemed to thoroughly enjoy themselves. I believe these events to be such an important way for the chefs to be able to have ‘face time’ with passionate producers and learn about great products, and for the chefs to have the opportunity to network amongst each other and share stories of their businesses and their kitchens. Westerly Isbaih, ALTO Olives
Debbie Thomson gave every chef a Victorinox knife to take back to their kitchen.
I have been coming to these events for the past five years and it has been a fantastic way to meet and talk to the chefs. I have made a lot of contacts and forged great relationships through the Exec Chefs Club to the point where I know most of the top 5 star chefs in Sydney. FCI’s done a great job in organising these from day one and the numbers and interest continues to grow. Keep up this great initiative. Mark Baylis , Unilever
Richard Kalina showing off his pink turnips to Uwe Habermehl
Thanks for making the meeting such a success, likewise I enjoyed the atmosphere and the information flow of the meeting. I look forward to the next one! Bonus met some nice people and found a couple of new products too. Peter Feuerstein - National Manager Culinary Services & Procurement Alpha Flight Services
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 91
Unilever Food Solutions & The Executive Chefs Club
“For the past 5 years, I’ve enjoyed the privilege of showcasing our time saving products to The Executive Chef’s Club. Stay tuned for another exciting year in 2014!”
Mark Baylis EXECUTIVE CHEF Unilever Food Solutions
Visit www.ufs.com
EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB RADISSON BLU PLAZA HOTEL, SYDNEY KITCHEN NOTES
65% waste occurs in the
of food
restaurant kitchen.
30% of food is left on the plate; An estimated 600,000 tonnes of food waste is generated by the hospitality industry
400,000
globally. An estimated tonnes of food waste could be avoided and could have been consumed had it been better portioned, better managed and better prepared. WISING UP ON WASTE…
Is a part of a Unilever Food Solutions initiative that addresses food wastage, malnutrition, poverty, water scarcity and climate change. New South Wales households throw away
$2.5 billion worth of edible
more than food every year.
Mark Baylis, Executive Chef for Australasia, Unilver Food Solutions
( continued from page 90) I take a swig of the El Dorado 12-year old rum and it immediately reeks cinnamon and tropical fruit aromas with hints of smoky honey with a lingering dry finish. I can certainly sip on this while watching my favourite sports channel on TV. The Executive Chefs Club gathering is also a good forum for chefs and food professionals to take a couple of hours off their busy schedule to network and catch up with other food industry colleagues. With the flow of food and drinks, new ideas can often flow out into the open as well. Richard Kalina came down from the Blue Mountains a former specialist grower of organic berries and vegetables. He gave a briefing about mountain strawberries, blackberries and gourmet vegetables. Mountain strawberries are a lot smaller than regular strawberries but they have a sweet intense flavour. I can think of at least a dozen salad or dessert recipes that would come to life with these wonderful organic products. Mel Nathan of Food Companion International is the brains behind organising our little group today. She regularly interviews and features executive chefs about their menu, favourite ingredients and latest trends in the food world. On display is a wide array of kitchen knives ranging from small paring knives to a range of professional chef selections. Debbie Thomson, formerly the National Manager for professional equipment at Oppenheimer Pty Ltd who is a distributor of food ingredients, tools
Download the app “Wise up on Waste Australia” from iTunes
81% of Aussies believe it is important for the food industry to dispose of food waste in an environmentally-friendly way.
50% would pay more when dining out for a restaurant that was implementing sustainable practices.
94 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Sam Burke, Product Development/ Corporate Chef at Meat and Livestock Australia
and equipment, demonstrates a range of Victorinox knives in Australia. A chat with Sue Devlin from Blue Harvest seems to make my prawns taste more delicious. Friendly, passionate and informed, Sue has no doubt the Gold Coast Tiger Prawns are quite possibly the best prawns that Australia can produce. Pristine waters and top quality feeds seem to be the essentials of a succulent, sweet and juicy taste to these prawns. Bring on the sweet, succulent and juicy Gold Coast Tiger Prawns from Queensland!
Nespresso made a special appearance on the night!
Australia on a Plate provided such marvellous rounds of cheeses, just beautiful.
Curtis York from Quittin Time gave the most lively 'rum' presentation on earth!
ALTO's Westerly Isbaih
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 95
EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB SEBEL PIER ONE, SYDNEY
Roo secrets revealed at Sebel Pier One
“There, I’ve just given away all my secrets.” So says chef Simon Bryant as he hands over the recipe for the lemon myrtle spiced kangaroo he has just wowed us with.
T
he dish is the climax of today’s outback-inspired menu served up to members of the Executive Chefs Club at Sydney’s Sebel Pier One. It is my first time as guest here and I’m curious to see just how these industry heads will go, peeking inside the kitchen and sampling the produce together. “There are no secrets anymore,” quips another
WORDS BY WILL TEMPLE PHOTOGR APHY BY SHANE FENTON chef from across the table. The afternoon, hosted by FCI’s Publishing Editor Mel Nathan, starts – as it should - with a refreshing pilsner from the Balmain Brewing Company. The chefs are quick to mingle with their peers and colleagues old and new. The camaraderie is evident in the group photo outside, where not even the brisk westerly over the Harbour could ruffle any of the hats on display. For Bryant today it’s about dispelling the notion of roo as an under-appreciated gamey meat. He says while we are used to ordering different varieties of steaks, roo has been traditionally all lumped in together. “If you’ve had bad roo you probably
have had a wallaby which is more a scrub animal,” he says. “The red roo is a plains grazer. You are what you eat”. “The chef has a 7kg tray of the premium Paroo range from supplier Macro Meats ready to show us. It promises a cleaner flavour and consistency in the sourcing, cuts and portion size. He pairs the meat with what he calls his “interesting plants” – those natives sourced from annual outback trips and which he now grows at home. “I don’t give them any love and they thrive,” he says. “It’s a nobrainer. They just do so well.” (
continued on page 98)
SYDNEY
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EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB REVIEW
Our first taste comes with Bryant's Paroo strip loin carpaccio. As billed, it shows off the texture of the meat rather than any flavour extremes, leaving the lift for the natives on top. Simon Bryant explaining to the chefs how profitable Kangaroo can really be whilst creating a unique selling point in the Sydney dining landscape.
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 97
EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB SEBEL PIER ONE, SYDNEY ( continued from page 96) Our first taste comes with his strip loin carpaccio. As billed, it shows off the texture of the meat rather than any flavour extremes, leaving the lift for the natives on top. The braised roo tail ravioli is similarly light and clean, served with a subtle tea instead of a huge braise. Third up comes the bigger flavours of the spiced grilled fillet. You may be accustomed to saltbush as a feed for some of your favourite meats. But what Bryant serves to accompany is saltbush done tempura-style, which offsets other flavour explosions like the desert lime and glazed quandong. It’s a fantastic crunchy hit. The wines, beautifully paired, are three vintages of Grenache from Yelland + Papps. Afterwards, National Product and Service Delivery Manager, Paul Curtis says while he could not speak on behalf of “the Flying Kangaroo” he personally enjoyed the roo dishes and the industry had clearly come a long way in refining the product. “You learn a lot from your peers here,” he says. “We’ve all got our own skills and talents and it’s wonderful to share them amongst others.” Gary Johnson, National Food Manager for Spirit Hotels, hosted the first Executive Chefs Club five years ago at the Hilton. Today he says he looks forward to the networking opportunities and the clear window into what suppliers have to offer. “It’s a gift for us,” he says. “We don’t like admitting we don’t know about a product but we all learn something from this. That’s key. ( continued on page 100)
Map of Paroo Kangaroo regions
SA Central West (SA)
SA North Eastern Pastoral (SA)
Paroo Darling (NSW)
Paroo Premium Kangaroo cuts
STRIP LOIN LOIN FILLET Searing, stir fry, thin slice
Loin fillet is derived from a side by removing the loin fillet in one piece from the ventral surface of the lumbar vertebrae.
Searing, stir fry, thin slice
The strip loin pair is situated on the dorsal edge of the carcase vertebrae.
KNUCKLE(ROUND) Dice up for braising, curries
Knuckle is prepared from a leg and is removed by following the natural seam between the topside and silverside.
Named after the ParooDarling region, in the Far West NSW, Australia 98 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
Warrego River (QLD)
TAIL PORTIONS Soups, ragouts, fillings
Tail is prepared into portions by cutting through the joints.
RECIPE
Lemon myrtle spiced grilled kangaroo fillet, wilted waragal greens and desert lime with glazed quandong and crispy saltbush RECIPE BY SIMON BRYANT Serves 2
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
ASSEMBLY
KANGAROO Grind spices in a mortar and SPICES pestle. Trim kangaroo by 1 teaspoon whole bush tomato removing the sinew and the 1/8 teaspoon (pinch) ground silver skin and roll in spice lemon myrtle crust. Heat oil in a pan or heat ¼ teaspoon Mountain pepper BBQ to very hot and cook roo, ½ teaspoon Mountain pepper leaf a few minutes either side. ½ teaspoon sea salt Rest. 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 teaspoon coriander seeds QUANDONG SYRUP ¼ teaspoon ground fennel seed Heat orange juice with 30ml macadamia oil for cooking star anise and sugar, add the fillets quandongs, which have been rehydrated in the orange juice QUANDONG SYRUP and simmer until just tender. 10 quandong halves (frozen or Cool in syrup. dried) Juice from 1 or 2 oranges SALAD 1 star anise Peel and cut bush bananas into 15g sugar halves and season with salt flakes. Cook quickly in a hot SALAD pan skin side down till the skin 6 bush bananas blisters then add warrigal leaves, 20ml macadamia oil for cooking sprinkle with lemon juice. 100g warrigal sea salt SALTBUSH LEAVES 2 pinches Szechuan pepper Coat in whisked egg white and 10 salt bush leaves dust in wheat starch, deep fry 1 whisked egg white until crisp (but not coloured) ½ cup wheat starch 2 tablespoons desert limes cut in half 1 lemon juiced 80ml olive oil Salt and pepper 1 x Paroo Kangaroo strip loin
Slice the roo across the grain. Make dressing using lemon juice, olive oil and salt and pepper. In a bowl combine cooked bush bananas and wilted warrigal greens with desert limes and quandongs with their syrup. Lightly toss all ingredients together. Arrange plate and drizzle over dressing. Place roo slices on top, and scatter with saltbush leaves. Enjoy!
FOR THE MENU WHAT IS PAROO?
Paroo Premium Kangaroo is produced by Australia’s leading manufacturer of kangaroo meat, Macro Meats. The Australian company has a long history of innovation and excellence and are leaders in the kangaroo industry.
SELECTED REGIONS
Carefully selected regions include Warrego River (Queensland) and North Eastern Pastoral District and Central West regions of South Australia.
PORTION CONTROLLED MOISTURE ENHANCED Selected cuts from selected species are carefully trimmed into standardised portions within strict weight ranges, enabling optimal cost control and consistent cooking times.
The extreme leanness of kangaroo meat means overcooking can reduce palatability. The moisture enhanced option uses a water based solution ensuring juicy, tender meat even when cooked to a higher degree of doneness. Ideal for high volume establishments and catering. (optional).
SUSTAINABLE KANGAROO
A uniquely Australian product that supports conservation of the species, the environment and the local economy. The kangaroo industry not only helps in land management but is an excellent example of conservation through sustainable use.
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 99
EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB SEBEL PIER ONE, SYDNEY
Best Mates… Alain Fabregues and Emmanuel Mollois enjoying their companie
Pâtissier Book Launch! WORDS BY ALAIN FABREGUES Emmanuel came to join us at The Loose box in Western Australia in the mid nineties
as chef pattisier. He came to us highly recommended by a great friend and fantastic chef, Phillippe Mouchel, who at the time was the chef at Paul Bocuse in Melbourne. Emmanuel needed a sponsor and I needed a pastry chef. He took on our busy pastry section with gusto, studying the great classics from the master Marie-Antoine Careme also called ‘le confiturier royal’, as well as the most talented chef of the twenthieth-century, Edouard Nignon, and worked to bring their recipes from the past to the present. From this point we developed a lasting friendship based on a professional respect
and our love of a job well done. This book is indicative of the advanced research he has been working on and the direction his art is taking him. Patissier, like cooking, has an everchanging set of rules that require constant focus and adaptation. Ingredients are changing and so are the trends fashionably or nutritionally. Today there is more of a demand for less sugar, less cream, more fruits, bitter chocolate, and gluten free recipies. Remember to enjoy yourself while in the kitchen and don’t be scared to experiment to try something new. Alain Fabregues M.O.F. 1991
FCI was really excited to see Emmanuel Mollois' drop in from Perth for the lunch to present his beautiful book 'Pâtissier'
A must for every pantry! Alain Fabregues M.O.F. 1991
Emmanuel's Book
Le Blanche Fraise
Millefeuille caramélis
Directly ahead the grinning face of Luna Park looks like it could almost be smacking its lips as well!
100 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
é
ABOUT EMMANUEL MOLLOIS You have probably seen Emmanuel on ABC TV's 'Poh's Kitchen', and Channel 9’s ‘Alive and Cooking’. His latest venture is Bistro des Artistes in Subiaco with Alain Fabregues. RRP: $55.00) UWA PUBLISHING PHOTOGRAPHY BY KARIN CALVERT
( continued from page 98) Cheese specialists, Australia on a Plate and fruit and vegetable purveyor, Sydney Direct Fresh Produce, urged the chefs to consider going more ‘Asian’ with their breakfast styles incorporating fresh local produce. Other presentations include an olive oil tasting – covering a variety of award-winning local oils and one tricky blind taste surprise. InterContinental Executive Chef Tamas Pamer came to Australia from Hungary and has been a regular at the club for the past two years. One of the best things he’s learned is to make top end local produce central to his breakfast buffet. “If you put on an awesome breakfast, and they leave with an excellent taste in their mouths, they will most probably come back for lunch and then dinner as well,” he says. Presenter Westerly Isbaih from Alto Olives reveals this is the sort of oil many of us find in our home kitchens. She is here to tell
us it’s rancid. I confess I’ve been unwittingly familiar with this taste. It’s a wake-up call that has me thinking “oils ain’t oils”.As the sun sets outside, a pair of fishos are trying their luck with bait and bucket. It’s nothing on what Lisa Downs from Fishtales shows us with some video footage of exactly what it takes to catch the Glacier 51 Toothfish. This delicacy is known for its snow-white flesh from its clear blood and it actually battles giant squid for breakfast. Getting one aboard a boat in Antarctic seas so cold they kill anyone who goes over in minutes is clearly not for the faint-hearted. As we finish up I think it is fitting for today’s Australianinspired event that we should be watching the pinks and oranges in the sky under that other international icon – the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Directly ahead the grinning face of Luna Park looks like it could almost be smacking its lips as well!
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 101
RECIPE
Roasted fillet of patagonian toothfish with petit pois a la francais with salt and pepper cuttlefish RECIPE BY MATTHEW KEMP Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
TO COMPLETE
4 x 150g fillet pieces of tooth fish 1 lemon 40ml EVO sea salt and pepper
PEA PUREE 1. Place butter in heavy based pot and melt. 2. Add sliced onion and pinch sea salt, sweat until translucent and sweet. 3. Add peas, stir in, add cream. 4. Bring to boil. Simmer for 2 minutes. 5. Strain. Reserving cream. Place peas in food processor and blend adding cream if necessary to create a smooth puree. Pass through a fine strainer. Set aside.
1. Preheat oven to 220°C. Place a heavy based pan over a high heat, add ½ the oil and heat. Season the fish and place skin side down into the pan. 2. Cook for 2 minutes over the heat and place in the oven for approx. 6 minutes. 3. Remove from oven, flip over and return to oven for a further 2 minutes. 4. Remove from oven and pan, allow to rest for 5 minutes. 5. Once rested, dress with the EVOO and a squeeze of lemon juice. Keep warm. 6. Have your frying oil at 180C, toss the cuttlefish into the S&P flour, shaking off excess, place into fryer and cook until golden and crispy about 2-3 minutes. Drain on kitchen towel and keep warm. 7. Reheat your pea puree and put a pool in the middle of your 4 serving plates, topped with the petite pois a la francaise, followed by the fish the cuttlefish and finally the pea tendrils.
PETIT POIS 1kg peas – in shell 2 spring onion bulbs – sliced 50g pancetta – cut into lardons 1 baby Cos lettuce –cut into 1cm dice, core removed 100g unsalted butter 4 shallots – peeled and sliced PEA PUREE 200ml single cream 1 medium onion 200g frozen baby peas 50g butter 1 clove garlic SALT AND PEPPER CUTTLEFISH 100g clean cuttlefish hood – cut fine julienne style ½ cup plain flour ½ cup corn flour 2 tblsp sea salt 1 tblsp black peppercorns 1 tblsp Sichuan peppercorns ½ tblsp dried chilli flakes 1 ltr vegetable oil TO FINISH 1 punnet of pea tendrils
Glacier 51 Toothfish (Chilean Seabass, Mero)
Only the premium 8-10kg Toothfish are selected for Glacier 51 branding. Two matching premium fillets from the same fish are carefully vacuum sealed and packed together in the Glacier 51 branded Toothfish carton. Take it from us, it is out of this word!
Contact Lisa Downs +61 (0) 410 503 765
SALT/PEPPER/FLOUR 1. Place sea salt, black pepper, Sichuan pepper into a heavy based frying pan. 2. Place over a moderate flame and roast until nice and fragrant. 3. Place into a food processor with chilli flakes and blender to afine powder. 4. Mix with the flours and set aside. PETITE POIS À LA FRANÇAISE 1. Shell peas, keeping the shells to create a quick pea stock. 2. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and blanch peas for 1-2 minutes, drain and refresh in a bowl of ice water. Drain and set aside. 3. Chop up the reserved pea shells and set aside. 4. Place a heavy based sauté pan over a moderate heat. Add 20 gms of the butter and allow to melt, now add the bacon lardons and gently fry until a light golden colour is achieved. Left the lardons out of the pan leaving the fat behind, set aside. 5. Using the same pan as the lardons cooked in place, back over a moderate heat and add the shallots and sweat for 3-4 minutes followed by the pea shells. Cook for one minute and then cover with 100mls of water, bring to the boil, lower to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, pass through a fine strainer, this is a pea stock, set aside. 6. To finish, take a heavy based pot and add 50mls of the reserved pea stock bring to the boil and whisk in the remaining butter to create a pea emulsion, reduce heat add the bacon and peas, fold in the Cos lettuce and spring onion and warm through. Correct the seasoning and add a drop of lemon juice to give a lift.
PMS 629
102 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL PMS 5487
PMS 5487 65 %
PMS 160
PMS 312
Enjoy!
The fish is a pleasure to work with. It's so luxurious. A real 'wagyu' like product of the ocean!
Always Ready To Service!
Anthony Harriss
0407 110 912
FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 103
EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB SEBEL PIER ONE, SYDNEY
A meeting place for purveyor &chefs Westerly Isbaih
Sydney chef Matthew Kemp
At first I felt a little out of place but then I saw a few familiar faces and settled right in. It’s great to meet all these chefs, meeting new producers, learning more! Look forward to many more fun times with great food, wine and new found friends. Awesome stuff! Derek Baker, Executive Chef Rydges, North Sydney Indeed, what a luxury to have the opportunity to sit down and enjoy such a wonderful event, what a marvellous venue. I look forward to hosting an event at Swissotel soon. Stephan Tseng, Executive Chef, Swissôtel, Sydney
Neil Thomsen, Francabout wine
Many thanks again for the opportunity to participate in these marvellous events. I think they keep getting better every time!
Peter O'Clery
Gary Johnson, National Food Manager and Group Executive Chef, Spirit Hotels, Australia Thank you very much for the great afternoon. Truly enjoyed every minute of it and the location was just stunning. Nice to meet all the Executive chef world once in a while! Tamas Pamer Executive Chef, Intercontinental, Sydney S ydney Direct Fresh Produce
Don Gethings, Grant McGregor and Paul Rifkin
Liz Daniels
The Sydney, Executive Chefs Club
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YOUNG GUNS
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IN CONVERSATION WITH JOHN SLAUGHTER, SEBEL PIER ONE
Eat, drink, live
INvIte
Working with Simon Bryant? He is extremely knowledgeable, approachable and has a down to earth style, he was so inspirational. Born? Sydney, Australia. Education? Ryde TAFE, Sydney. Best kitchens worked? My time in London and working in kitchens there. Favourite cheap eat? Vietnamese. What keeps you going? Constant
evolving of fresh produce and utilising it in my menus every day. Advice to future young chefs? I am very passionate and focused about food and people. When you love the business and you love what you do, you put yourself into it 110% and you live it. I can compare my life to Henry Thoreau; live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each. Favourite thing about Kangaroo? A unique Australian dish that certainly is an acquired taste. Learning about how Kangaroo is graded from Simon was useful. Early influences? Albert Roux was the very first chef's book acquired. Favourite thing about Sydney? The fresh food produce in Australia and being able to follow the availability of seasonal produce to complement the climate and the ever increasing demands of more health-conscious diners. Favourite kitchen tool? My Microplane.
Want to meet some of Sydney’s othe r
In conjunction with Sebel Pier One
Executive chefs?
and Food Companion International
it’s on! We are having a lively shared table with “A Cook and a Chef’s” Simon Bryant for a special tourism Kangaroo themed lunch and culinar y experience presented in a very unique way with a group of 20. Enjoy eating at the shared table, drink and networ k at the long table and have fun with Sydney’s other Executi ve chefs. Host John Slaughter executive chef of Sebel Pier One, in conjunction with Food Companion International, will run the culinar y workshop featuring the secrets of the versatile and popular Glacier 51 Toothfish presented by celebrated Sydney hatted chef Matthew Kemp. Plus new season Fresh Australian Extra Virgin Olive oils, Dips galore, new and interesting Aussie Season al produce at the Artisan Cheese breakfast bar “It’s time for change” by Australia on a Plate over some chilled Austra lian boutique wines in an elegant and intimate way. When: Tuesday October 1st, 2013 Venue: Meet in the lobby Pier end Address: 11 Hickson Road, the Rocks Dress: Casual attire Time: 3-6pm Please RSVP your reservation to: Mel Nathan on 0413 616 683 or mel@fo
odcompanion.com.au
We look forward to seeing you!
Inspiration Australia… Chef Simon Bryant and John Slaughter hosted FCI’s last Executive Chefs club together at the Sebel Pier One
Host Chef
John Slaughter
Guest Chef /Presenter
Simon Bryant
Guest Chef
Matthew Kemp
I'm looking foRward to trying out some Kangaroo dishes on the Special's Menus, it's profitable and creates a unique selling point in the Sydney dining landscape... 106 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
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EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB SEBEL PIER ONE, SYDNEY Thank you for another great event, there was lots of info to take in and a great turnout Anthony Craven Executive Chef The Langham, Sydney Just wish to pass on my thanks and appreciation for hosting a great afternoon yesterday. Very informative & enjoyable!
Drew Bolton and Carl Middleton
John McFadden Group Executive Chef Trippas White Group
Martin Khoo
I really enjoyed this evening and took away some great ideas and some stellar samples of produce. A brilliant event, fabulous purveyors and presenters and a fabulous lunch by John Slaughter and Simon. Samuel Burke Food Development Manager, Alliance Catering Australia Derek Nicholson The samples from Brasserie Bread and Fishtales were amazing!
Simon Lomas, Janni Krystis, Peter Morgan-Jones and John McFadden
See you at the next Event!
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Executive Chefs Club CHEFS CLUB EXECUTIVE A MEETING PLACE FOR PURVEYORS AND CHEFS THE STAR, SYDNEY REVIEW
THE STAR, SYDNEY
All stars of produce
Once upon a time, feasts were about gathering around the table sharing conversation while enjoying food. But that was before the Executive Chefs Club meets came along. WORDS BY MEL NATHAN
I
n conjunction with Sydney, Hilton and Food Companion International, Sydney’s local and international executive chefs got a chance to enjoy a refreshing pilsner from the Balmain Brewing Company with ubiquitous chef Werner Kimmeringer who was back in town from a seven-year stint in the Middle East. Host Carl executive chef of Sydney, Hilton went on to perform the most superb job of showcasing a world of flavour, plus delicacies from the sea along with a gourmet Caviar and Arlaux French Champagne presentation by Francabout wine. The chefs enjoyed freshly-made German breads and cakes, Organic Vanilla from New Zealand along some Spanish charcuterie favourites. Chef Eddie Cofie presented the most succulent poultry presentation, followed by a “small
Gary Johnson, Mark Baylis and Andrew Duggan
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portions and big satisfaction” showcase featuring 20 bespoke canapés and sushi favourites by Heng Australia. And there were a few surprises, a Combi-Oven Banqueting demonstration from European newcomer Eloma presented by Volkmar Rau, followed by a lucky draw where Eloma’s Corporate Chef Martin Koestlin decided to collect the chefs cards and give away the Eloma Joker Compact Combi-Steaming Oven – a wonderfully practical lucky door prize. It went to one of the visiting ACT chefs Neil Abrahams, who has played a prodigious part with the Australian Culinary Federation in NSW and who is currently the Executive Chef
James Mussak with Neil Thomsen, Francaboutwine
Salt pairing is the skill of a Master chef says Fritz Gubler
of Royal Canberra Golf Club. “Take it – it’s yours,” said Koestlin to the winning chef. Generous sponsors to the unprecedented bash were Eloma, Nomad Foods, Brezel German Bakery and Patisserie, Heilala Vanilla, M&J Chickens, Universal Gourmet, The Good Grub Hub, The Salt Book by Fritz Gubler, Heng Australia, Francabout Wines, Australia on a Plate and Balmain Beer Brewing Company. There was a special segment discussed on airline catering with guests including; Qantas’ Paul Curtis, Alpha Flight Catering Anil Ashokin and former chef great Prakash Chand. Kimmeringer, a consultant with Sydney’s Gate Gourmet said: “It was a great crowd today and currently there is now a
See the whole range Gubler distributes including; The Gault & Millaut 2014 Guide, Champagne, Great Grand & Famous Chefs, Hotels, The Salt Book and Almonds. www.arbonpublishing.com
Sydney Hilton via Bahrain and London Find something you're passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it, writes Carl Middleton.
To discover more about European and Australian wines got to www.francaboutwine.com
greater need for producers and purveyors to be inventive with seasonal local products and where possible be extremely cost effective. It is also important to display a good marketing plan and to demonstrate a consistent product with high volumes.” For the finale who would have thought the chefs could have eaten anymore? The chefs enjoyed five of the best-selling soft French cheeses on the world stage from Australia on a Plate’s Yasser Nada which was very top-of-the-line, followed by a Salt Master Class by Gault & Millau’s Publisher Fritz Gubler and James Mussak which was a real eye opener. Both chefs coming from the same region in Switzerland, who were many moons ago professional chefs themselves are now accomplished book writers and publishers. A complimentary copy of The Salt Book and Great Chefs of Australia was given to every chef. Gubler told the chefs: “If you think cooking with salt was easy, look through the pages of my newly released The Salt Book which is a unique guide to salting wisely and well, along with some marvellous recipes.”
Martin Koestlin tasting organic vanilla
I
was 13 when I decided, irrevocably, that I was going to be a chef. This might sound unremarkable; until you consider that I had no interest in food. My mum just laughed when I told her, because until then, if it wasn’t chicken and chips, then I wasn’t interested. But once I set myself a goal, I usually don’t stop until I have achieved it. I enrolled in a full time course aged 16 and never looked back. After forking out the college fees and equipment cost, my Mum told me she would bury me at the bottom of the garden if I dropped out. Now, 23 years later I still remind her every now and again. My first job as a chef stemmed from an equally impromptu decision. My father went to work in Bahrain and I visited for two weeks. Unfortunately my father lost his job and had to return to England but I liked it so much I stayed and started applying for jobs. One chance opening at the Bahrain Hilton later, I simultaneously took my first step onto the career ladder and the international stage. It was a real eye opener being 3000 miles away from home living alone in a Middle Eastern country at the age of 18. Living in Bahrain really opened my eyes to what is possible with a little hard work and a sense of adventure. I got a transfer to London a year later which brought me back down to earth with a bump. London was a big eye-opener! In Bahrain, I thought I knew it all. In London, I got the shock of my life. It wasn’t until I got there that I learned how to cook. There were 15 hour days, day after day and week after week. Looking back now I realise what a great experience it was and just how much I loved every minute of it. Seven years of classical training in London resulted in the style that is central to my cooking today – simple food that people can recognise, cooked well with respect for the produce and the guests you are cooking for. In today’s industry it is possible to buy every
Great to host an Executive chefs club it is a unique opportnity to meet other chefs and just have a good catch up and fantastic food. product that you can imagine, most of these are mass produced and I try to avoid such items as much as possible. I am committed to sourcing and preparing the freshest foods whether it is a hatted restaurant or banquet for 1000 covers. I also have a firm belief that we need to train the chefs of tomorrow and we cannot do this if we create an environment of opening boxes. Outside the kitchen, I’m living a much more laid back life than I could ever have dreamed of. I love everything about the Australian lifestyle, enjoying it with my Irish wife and two young children whenever I can. You couldn’t ask for more than what I have right on my doorstep. Rather understandably, a return to the UK is not on the cards anytime soon.
IN CONVERSATION WITH EXECUTIVE CHEF CARL MIDDLETON, HILTON, SYDNEY Born? Leicester, UK in 73. Education? City of
guilds 706/1 & 706/2 Pastry City & Guilds South Fields College, Leicester. Cooking now? Sydney Hilton with 537 rooms and 4000 square meters of function space over four levels. Best kitchen worked? Lilianfels Resort & Spa, Four Seasons Sydney, Quay Restaurant, London Hilton Park Lane, Langham Hilton, Bahrain Hilton. FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 111
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Chicken coup 5yrs ago, our cooked range was 15% of M&J's business. Now it's 35% of the business. IN CONVERSATION WITH OWNER MINA SOURIS M&J CHICKEN Born? Kifira near Pelaponese. Not far from
Crete, Greece. Starting out in Australia? In 1982 I started a business in Wiley Park, it was an old deli - run down and wasn’t doing that well and they were running the business on a very low budget. Feed is predominantly grain here, which is 70% of the cost of growing a bird. The cost of feed in Australia is higher than world average and it’s a highly regulated business we are in. We are also Are you Halal and HACCP approved. On growing the business? We have a huge new demand for bespoke cooked products with the chefs, it is really exciting. But predominantly we are a chilled facility. Favourite thing about Sydney? Enjoy spending time on my Harley Davidson and out cruising on Sydney Harbour on my 40ft Caribbean. 112 | FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL
I went door-knocking for business and kept talking about chicken and 30 years later I’m still talking M and J's, Eddie Cofie about chicken. I love it!
T
he next time you see an M&J delivery vehicle you’ll be looking at a huge commitment to the Australian restaurant sales sector. “It was a huge financial commitment and I felt it was essential as the company prepares for all the challenges that the food world brings,” says the company’s owner Mina Souris. Growing day-by-day and moving to Marrickville in 1982, we are now a company located in a number of Australian states with a commitment to superior quality poultry processing systems, and a program of continuous improvement. They distribute to the whole eastern Australian seaboard and also have interests with export markets throughout Asia and the Middle East.Their formula for success is growing into a modern, respected, multi-site, poultry operation – not only as a value-added producer but also a purveyor business, who can deliver fresh chicken to your doorstep seven days a week and located just minutes from Sydney’s
international airport. They have chefs who take a creative approach in delivering food solutions to an outstanding and most varied local and international customer base. Serviced by five locations Sydney, Brisbane, Townsville, Melbourne and Adelaide, which reflect the director's insistence on having the highest quality operations covering the major population centres in Australia. “Who you buy from can be just as important as what you buy,” Mina says. But although M&J is now part of a big business, it is still an operation which prides itself on its close links with small businesses. “That’s why we have high calibre managers running our various operations and with close involvement with all our customers. We buy well and have the respect and attention of the chefs here in Australia and internationally”. Group Chef and Development Manager Eddie Cofie tells FCI that they are involved in every facet of marketing including; hotel shows, tradeshows “and we make lots of sales calls”. “We use a fresh approach and employee feedback is most valued”. It looks like M&J chickens have hit on the winning formula.
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HENG AUSTRALIA THE ASIAN CHEF We are 100% Australian owned producer and purveyor of chilled and frozen savoury canapé foods, and hot and cold. Heng Australia is about quality, time and cost saving for restaurant sales sector including hotels, stadiums, caterers, corporates, cruises companies, event and function centres, life-style/health care outlets including schools in NSW and ACT. We provide Finished Product Specification (“FPS”) for all of our products. Every FPS contains nutritional information, ingredients used, allergens, packaging details, product shelf life and other related information. Heng Australia is HACCP certified by SGS. HACCP certification provides a recognised endorsement for food safety excellence nationally and internationally. We produce our products with love and care and for your guests to enjoy. We firmly believe in working together with our customers to continuously produce quality products in a cost effective manner that meet our customer’s expectations. Also, we tailor our products to your specific requirements. We enjoy being involved with the Executive Chefs Club. Our customer service policy is focused on quality, consistency and reliability. Every customer is important to us!
hoshi@heng.com.au www.heng.com.au Hoshi 0410 318 229
“M&J Chickens supply a wide range of specialty fresh and cooked products allowing chefs to create their own unique gourmet dishes. Some products include fresh Quail, Free Range Chicken Breast & Supremes as well as ready cooked meal components such as Thai Green Curry, Butter Chicken, Grilled Chicken Breast & Chicken Pieces. Best of all M&J Chickens’ 5-star facility has the ability to create custom solutions for your specific requirements”
- Eddie Cofie (Executive Chef)
Gold Range: Butter Chicken
www.mandjchickens.com.au
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IN CONVERSATION WITH UWE HABERMEHL
He has the can-do spirit
My In g redient obsessio n s a re Va n illa bea n a nd sea -sa lt
Variety is the spice of life and if you want to get your hands on some fantastic local and international produce Sydney is the place to be.
don’t lose the passion. Understand the basics and science behind the processes before aiming at complex methods and techniques. Favourite kitchen tool? Mortar and pestle, pen and paper (for ideas, sketches and possible concepts). Most controversial menu item? Have you ever tried to match a wine to a buttermilk based avocado, lime and coriander gelato? Favourite thing about Sydney? Lifestyle here is fantastic. Most useful cookbook? Larousse and Ramon Marato’s ‘chocolate’. Early influences? Eckart Witzigmann. On classic vs modern cuisine? You need to understand the classic to build the modern. Career you would have pursued if you didn't become a chef? Winegrower. How can we keep attracting chefs into the food world? A pressing and complex issue that cannot be answered in brief. Let’s realise that being a chef requires continues dedication, passion and a lot of hard work to becoming and staying successful. Career turning point? Had a few and hopefully some more to come. Favourite sport? Snow-skiing and ice-hockey. Purveyor tip? Locate and know the ingredient you require, then find a purveyor who is willing to work with you and can deliver the produce, then establish a good working relationship.
Born? Giessen, Germany. Education? High school followed by
trade certificate. Best kitchens worked? A number of high profile hotels across Europe. Favourite cheap eat? Fish and chips at the beach (with some fresh green leaves of course). What keeps you going? Sourcing new exceptional produce from innovative growers with a point of difference, out of the box approach, creativity. Advice to future young chefs? Be patient, gain knowledge and
us Cer tified Ang f ee B n ia al tr Aus om.au
www.angusaustralia.c
Host Uwe Habermehl, former Executive chef of Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre showcased the world of flavour plus delicacies from the farm at the Executive Chefs Club.
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Chuck Demo and Tasting www.raremedium.com.au
The who’s who of Quail and Spatchcock www.gamefar m.com.au
rizo Famous Jamons and Cho www.idea-food.com.es
Uwe Habermehl and Oswin Ribeiro
Gavin Mckevitt
EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB
Kylie Roberts and Mitch Edwards, APL with Paul Rifkin
Juan Sagnier presenting Jamons from Spain Anthony Craven
Sam Burke and Boris Cuzon
Meat
Whole Chuck
of the matter
Meatologist Doug Piper
WORDS BY VENESSA BARNES
When the experts gathered in Sydney to discuss the humble chuck there was more than meat on their minds – and the menu.
P
rotein, the single largest food cost a chef has to manage when designing a menu and they are judged on it and the producers and purveyors have some involvement too. Diners are always looking for something unique and something exceptional. And menus generally are presented to showcase a chef's skill level and to offer a dining experience for which the
diner cannot create from his/her own kitchen. Our afternoon catered for some marvellous produce and lovely and clever dishes displayed by Habermehl. Many chefs today are embracing the masterpieces, run under the banner of Meat and Livestock of Australia. The program is a winner for the chef and the purveyor, with the ‘nose to tail’ concept becoming a hit on many menus. MLA's Doug Piper conducted a breakdown of a whole chuck, demonstrating the versatility of one of the more economical cuts of beef including a breakdown of the whole chuck. Who would have thought the chuck steak
could be as versatile and delicious as the dish Habermehl created. Certified Australian Angus Beef was a product that spoke for itself with a traceability and transparency in place that makes it remarkably safe and chefs can certainly feel confident when using it. Tapas is a fast growing trend and the jamons and chorizos that Juan Sagnier showcased were to die for. Game food is underutilised in Australia. Game Farm offered many wonderful products including; Quail tulips and Quail medallions to the chefs as a canape option standing up when we wanted to savour sitting down! FOOD COMPANION INTERNATIONAL | 117
EXECUTIVE CHEFS CLUB THE STAR, SYDNEY
STAR CHEFS AT THE STAR David Chang – Momofuku Seiobo, Teag Ezard – BLACK by Ezard, Steve Manfredi – BALA, Luke Nguyen – Fat Noodle and Adriano Zumbo, just to name a few!
Stellar culinary community
I
Chef Darren Ho puts us behind the grill of Sydney's luxury Star Casino. was invited to an Executive Chef's Club event where Sydney's Executive Chefs enjoyed a “lively chefs table” and a culinary experience presented in a very unique way at the new Event Centre Kitchen at Sydney’s Star Casino, followed by a private dinner in Sokyo featuring chef Chase Kojima. Host’s Stephen Wright and Andy North accompanied the chefs on one of the Chef finest memorable back stage tours. It Darren Ho
Left to right: Galvin Teo, John Deane and Andy North
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was followed by an elegant culinary workshop in their new state of the art Event Centre Kitchen, featuring some of the hottest speakers and a range of Australian and global delicacies. The logistics and layout of the place was extremely impressive covering all bases of cuisine and wine offerings. The quality of their team was evident and the fit outs of restaurants were truly world class. As is with all Executive Chef Club soirees they feature the latest premium-end Australian products and latest food concepts. Promotions are conducted at five star hotels, business clubs and high volume food establishments which us chefs find very informative and useful. Andy and
Simon Sandal and EZARD's Michael Tripp
Stephen were extremely generous in organising dinner at Sokyo where Japanese traditional cuisine and fusion worked hand in hand. I was
Executive Chefs Club in The Star's Event Centre Kitchen
Backstage tour: Andy North, Kiran Arora, Carl Middleton and Simon Sandal
The chefs at BALA making fresh bread
so impressed with this restaurant that I dined there a few months later for my 34th wedding anniversary. Wines matched for the dinner from Dan Murphyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s were exemplary and some gems were discovered! Once again my hat goes off to Mel from FCI for being such a fantastic supporter of our culinary community and for organising these fabulous events, this one
was not only informative but educational and one of networking and camaraderie. Mel is continuing her support and now on the Board of the Australian Culinary Federation of NSW, ACT & Regions, with her support along with the other members of the Board who are now reaching a far wider market in bringing states and regions into a cohesive powerhouse that
truly supports our industry with a united front. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to attend the next Executive chefs Club event! The Star 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont NSW 2009 International callers: +61 2 9777 9000 www.thestar.com.au
Stephen Wright and Auxico's Galvin Teo
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IN CONVERSATION WITH ANDY NORTH, THE STAR, SYDNEY
Evening Star At the Star we want young chefs with passion for food and great attitudes that’s why we created the Echo Culinary Institute, there’s no better place to learn your trade when you’re surrounded by top chefs and dining establishments. Born? Rainham in Kent, UK Education? Thanet
Technical College, Ramsgate, England. City and Guilds London Institute. Best kitchen worked? Hotel Intercontinental London, Le Souffle restaurant 1 Michelin star working under Peter Kromberg. Favourite cheap eat? Copo Café and Diner, Victoria Street Drummoyne What keeps you going? It’s a lifestyle and needs to be in your DNA, you have to be self-motivated, if you love what you do it doesn’t feel like work. Advice to future young chefs? You have got to want to do it and make sure you cook from the
heart because it’s a tough trade. Be passionate about ingredients you use. Favourite kitchen tool? The steward cleaning up and my chopping knife. Describe your role at The Star? Running the kitchen operations on a day to day basis with my team and I look after the front of house in our casual dining restaurants. Favourite thing about Sydney? The weather and food scene. Early influences? Working with Peter Kromberg at the Intercontinental London. He has made me the person I am today. On classic vs modern cuisine? I’m classically trained but use the best
Th e sta r ha s been th e yea rs in th e ma kin g fo r me a nd it wa s g reat to open o u r d o o rs to sh owca se some o u r n ew Events Centre a nd what we ha ve ach ieved h ere a nd to sha re it am o n g fellow ch efs in Syd n ey a nd enj oy din n er in Sokyo with th em .
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of both worlds that in the beauty of cooking you never stop learning. Career you would have pursued if you hadn’t become a chef? A soccer player Career turning point? Mystery box competition at Hotelympia in London, 3 chefs 1 hour 45 minutes cooking for 4 people 3 courses and winning the master chefs Grand Prix. Favourite sport? Soccer. Ingredient obsession? Chocolate. Purveyor tip? You have to work closely with your suppliers to get the best and freshest on the market and go visit them.
IN CONVERSATION WITH STEPHEN WRIGHT, AL QASR, JUMEIRAH, DUBAI
Seasoned Campaigner Food now is much simpler, less worked and there’s a bigger focus and ingredients such as heirloom, organic, foraged and things that are a little less common. On cooking in Sydney? Sydney is going
through a diverse culinary change with an emphasis on casual or more relaxed style dining and venues which has driven the way we do and operate things here at The Star. Unusual things you’ve learnt? I have gained a bigger insight and understanding of how to extract natural flavours through different cooking techniques example by working with the team at
Momofuku. What sort of advice would you want to give young chefs wanting to get into cooking? Make sure that you understand what it means and what it takes. It’s not Television. Your produce philosophy? Simply the best produce; cooked, served and delivered to the best of its natural elements. Do you go for organic or it doesn’t matter? There is always a cost involved in using organic products, but when viable, absolutely. On fresh foods and ingredients in the future? I don’t think that it is going to change rather than the emphasis will become greater on quality produce. What
do you get up to when you’re not cooking?
Spending time with my kids and playing golf, luckily my eldest loves golf as well. Your recommendation for average non-cooks when they come home and they want to cook something? Cook simple and by taste, season as you go, not at the end, you will be surprised. On hosting the Executive Chefs Club? A great event, not only did we get to showcase our new events centre but we got to show a lot of chefs what we were doing here since the renovations. A lot of people still don’t know what we have done.
Co ok simple a nd by ta ste, sea so n a s yo u g o, n ot at th e end, yo u will be su rpriseD
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EPICUREAN
Go, Go, Gault Millau It’s all about the the food!
The Gault&Millau Sydney restaurant guide launched in Sydney at Salt Meats Cheese, November 2013. RRP $24.99 from most newsagencies and bookstores. or online: www. gaultmillau.com.au
O
nce upon a time two successful journos Christian Millau and Henri Gault were working on the ParisPresse together when Gault was asked to do a Paris restaurant column, his colleague Millau did all the editing. It was in 1962 when they both expanded and produced a new publication Guide Julliard in the Paris area. By 1969 came an entrepreneurial moment when the journos started their own magazine Le Noveau Guide Gault&Millau. By 1972 they were in the guidebook publishing arena themselves. Their straight to the point and very detailed stories about city bistro’s and restaurants took Paris by the stomach, and in return it resulted in Michelin heartburn. says The Official Foodie Handbook by Ann Barr and Paul Levy.
Munoz, James Mussak, Racquel illeri Massimo Mele and Joe Cam
But they both focused on what really mattered: the taste and the presentation of the food and the imagination of the chef. The guide was an instant success, with its witty and modern style it was soon selling more than 150,000 copies a month. The style since has been formalised by the great chef Paul Bocuse, and the formula still remains in place today. The Gault&Millau restaurant guide, Sydney launched in November 2013, with a Melbourne guide coming in 2015. One of the most influential guides which uses points for its rating system and only restaurants with between 10-20 points are listed. The Michelin may be popular and more influential, but the Gault&Millau ‘The Yellow guide’ is purely based on the quality of the food.
Serge Dansereau, Amanda Bilson, Tony Bilson
Ben Greeno, Kylie Javier-Aston
Christine Manfield, Sean Connolly, Lyndey Milan
Hassan Baalbaki, Nic Fakas, Alex Milozzi, Carmen Milozzi
Jane Hyland, Wayne Borgese-Coom, Matt Kemp, Colin Fassinge
Tara Scheinberg, John Fink
Nathan Johnson, Lauren Murdoch
Mike Moore, Sean Connolly
Gault&Millau = Go Me-yo (say it fast!)
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Mark Dorell, Chief Judge
Fritz Gubler Publisher Elisa Gubler
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