No Plain Jane

The song “I’m All About that Bass” ran through my head after the first bite of the el macho Burger at Restaurant Jane, except my version was “I’m all about that bun, ‘bout the bun, ‘bout that homemade bun!”

Yes, the natural Angus ground chuck is lean and flavor-packed, and the chipotle mayo has a pleasant after-burn. Yummy Jack cheese oozes over a tangy roasted Pasilla chili, with red onion adding bite and the avocado providing silkiness. It is messy to eat, but not drippy, a wonderful melding of flavors.

But the homemade, freshly baked sesame bun elevates all these elements into a hit song rocketing to Number one on the hit Parade.

The same is true for the Big Pickle Burger. how could pickled onions taste so sweet, next to dill pickles? The bun soaks up juices from the burger, respective pickles, and homemade mayo, but somehow keeps its structural integrity until the last bite. Watercress and Tillamook cheddar add harmony to this symphony of flavors.

I’m looking forward to tasting Jane’s Big Blue Burger next time, which features Gorgonzola cheese and grilled mushrooms and red onions. I know that bun is up to the challenge. —Julia

McHugh

Restaurant Jane, 1311 State Street, www. restaurantjane.com, 962-1311.

Louie’s is a hidden gem

offering creative and up-to-date Californian cuisine with spot-on service. Its bistro-like space is located inside the 130-year-old Hotel Upham, and reflects the charm and tradition of its Victorian location, with a jazzy, comfortable feel all its own. The romantic atmosphere can be experienced dining cozily inside or outside on an old-fashioned heated verandah. Choice selections from the well-stocked wine bar are served with extraordinary fresh seafood, pastas, filet mignon and a changing menu of specialties.

2012

Food 26

Decor 21

Service 25

Cost $47