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Ginger

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AFTER DARK

AFTER DARK

Ginger is like a longtime lover who is hot, spicy and always keeps you interested. His name comes from the Sanskrit word sringavera, meaning “horn-root.” He’s been around the block: ginger is mentioned in the Vedic literature of India, The Analects of Confucius, and the Koran. Ginger is a major spice throughout Asia and Europe. In traditional Chinese and Indian medicine ginger is called “the universal medicine” and is particularly prized as a digestive aid. It is one of the most useful spices, as delicious as it is health-promoting. Imported from Asia, ginger was used copiously in medieval Europe. Imbergasse or “Ginger Lane” was the spicetrading street in Basel, Switzerland during those times. Even the English loved to pour it on; “Hot i’ the mouth” is how Shakespeare described ginger in Twelfth Night. Queen Elizabeth I is credited with inventing gingerbread, by ordering likenesses of her friends to be created from ginger-flavored cookies. The Brits’ love for ginger crossed the Atlantic to the Colonies. Ginger cookies were passed around Virginia’s House of Burgesses to bribe voters. Later, the spice was a standard ration for George Washington’s troops.

—Miriam Hospodar

Fresh ginger

is used in virtually all the cuisines of Asia for its flavor and its pungent qualities. Slice off the necessary amount, peel and mince. A garlic press is terrific for mincing peeled ginger. Electric coffee grinders also do the trick. When adding to stir-fries or curries, sauté for about thirty seconds before adding the other ingredients. Store fresh ginger in the refrigerator in a paper bag. Fresh ginger makes luscious homemade chai: chop and simmer in water for two to three minutes, then add tea, ground cardamom, milk and sweetener. Bring the mixture to a boil, strain, and bliss out.

Young ginger

sometimes available in Asian markets, is less flavorful than the mature root, and in my opinion, has no advantage over conventional fresh ginger other than its novelty.

Dried ground ginger

is more powerfully pungent than fresh ginger; they are not interchangeable. It is employed in Western desserts and sweet foods, from pumpkin pie to ginger ale.

Candied ginger

is delightful in chutneys, jams, desserts and as a candy in itself. Trader Joe’s carries a variety of choices: chunks, organic, sugared, and unsugared. I like to add a small amount of chopped candied ginger to curried chicken salad and fruit salads. Try mixing with peaches or mangoes.

FAvOrITE CHEESES

Cheeses are seasonal, just like fruit.

F, a doublecream cow’s milk cheese produced by Sweet Grass dairy, in Georgia. Their Jerseys graze on lush pastures, and the result is a cheese as fresh as spring. With a soft, buttery texture, light acidity, and creamy finish, Green hill is light enough to please everyone, yet sophisticated enough to win praise from seasoned cheese lovers. Available at C’est Cheese located at 825 Santa Barbara Street, phone number (805) 965-0318. www. cestcheese.com —LH

The light and delicate flavor and cheese is a delightful deviation from the traditional Brie. made exclusively in the mugello area outside of florence, this 100% sheep’s milk cheese is made from only local florentine sheep. Brinata has a lovely moistness and delicate white mold rind to complement the soft, airy center and smooth texture with a mildly sharp tang. This versatile cheese is best served with walnuts (candied or simply toasted), apple-raisin chutney, and a crisp, dry sauvignon blanc (stainless steel fermentation please), or a smooth and lightly peppery cabernet sauvignon. Available at Via Maestra 42, 3343 State Street, 805-569-6522. —Tori Tsu

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