SLY ’S

IT’S ALL IN THE SAuCE

order a steak at Sly’s and be ready for some choices. Not just between a Ribeye or New York cut, but among sauces.

“It’s nice to know there are no bad choices, right?” says James Sly with a smile. Nine small bowls arrayed before him are filled with a palette of bronze, mahogany, tan, and garnet. A palette for every palate.

he begins with Béarnaise, the classic sauce for grilled meat and fishes. It’s a creamy, light emulsion, like a hollandaise, but more vinegary and seasoned with tarragon and shallots. Adjacent is the hollandaise itself, a pale yellow color, fragrant of lemon. Both are thick yet delicate in texture, a wondrous thing.

maître d’Butter is a simple -- butter mixed with shallots, garlic, cayenne, lemon juice and parsley – yet, “highly underrated,” according to Sly. “The chilled mixture melts on the steak on the way to the table.” horseradish sauce is another steak house tradition. Sly makes his own fresh. “You don’t want to inhale the fumes while it is being blended,” he points out, his eyes twinkling above his signature handlebar mustache. for the fresh Tomato and herb sauce, diced farmer’s market tomatoes are mixed with lemon juice, shallots, olive oil, a touch of french mustard and a liberal dose of chives, parsley, tarragon and basil. It’s low in calories, but high in flavor.

Velvety veal stock is the base in the Red Wine and Shallots and in the Ragout of mushrooms, which boasts both dried porcinis and roasted fresh mushrooms.

Sly’s offers two tasty peppercorn sauces. The Pepper Steak features cracked black pepper in a reduction of shallots, white wine, and veal stock, finished with real cognac. “It’s got that black pepper bite,” says Sly. “I can eat that sauce by itself, just over a bowl of rice.”

The Green Peppercorn Cream sauce is “good on just about every meat,” he adds. It’s terrific over the Top Sirloin in the Steak-frites entrée and tastes just as good on the salty fries.

Who can chose? —Jm sly’s. Corner of Linden Avenue and Seventh Street, Carpinteria, 684-6666, www.slysonline.com