mussel madness

If you were strolling the streets of Paris at lunchtime, there would be no mistaking the aroma of all things seafood, and a good part of that are “moules” or mussels. Prepared the classic french way, the dish is simple enough…made with black mussels steamed in white wine, butter and shallots. The cooking liquid that come from this process is what gives the dish its name…moules mariniere, a wonderful appetizer or light lunch that goes elegantly with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc and a crust of warm bread. Living in a coastal city, we have the tremendous fortune of access to fresh, flavorful seafood. historically, China and Spain lead the global mussel catch. Aquaculture of mussels in North America began in the 1970’s with the majority coming from Canada’s Prince edward Island. Recently, however, Santa Barbara has come onto the scene with locally harvested shells affectionately named hope Ranch mussels.

By Jenn Kennedy

Photos By Ashley Gove, MichAel Brown & shelly vinson

The culinary frenzy for all things mussel is getting ever stronger on the Central Coast and Santa Barbara eateries are getting known in dining circles everywhere as a destination to enjoy this brilliant bivalve. Restaurant owner and Chef James Sly has been a leader in this area, featuring a variety of mussel dishes at his Carpinteria eatery, Sly’s, since they day he opened. “We use small black mussels from the cold waters of Canada cleaned and simply prepared. our mussels “marinière” - in the sailor’s style - are simply steamed in Chardonnay with shallots, and garnished with chopped parsley. We also serve mussels a number of other ways - at lunch, the moles marinere are served as “moules/frîtes - the classic french bistro combination of steamed mussels and our homemade french fried potatoes - best served with our homemade mayonnaise.” says Sly. “We serve about a pound which is a great starter or a light lunch.”

The main supplier of the local mussels is fisherman Bernard friedman of sbmariculture. com. he acknowledges a long and complicated permitting process was necessary before he could start his operation, as the fishing industry is overseen by numerous regional and federal agencies.

There are a variety of techniques for growing mussels and after much trial and error, friedman chose the rope culture method, whereby mussel seeds are attached to ropes, which are then hung from a rope back-bone supported by large plastic floats. The mussels settle on this rope as naturally as they would on the seabed. It took friedman three years of trouble-shooting to find the right location and methodology. “Giving mussels a comfortable home in which to grow makes all the difference,” he adds. “Spacing design is crucial to growing fat, grit-free mussels.”

It may sound simple but mussel farmers like friedman have spent years researching and developing the perfect rope to give each and every mussel space to grow to reach full potential. After much research, he elected to utilize machinery and a technique, which is popular in New Zealand, and has adapted it to suit our local climate and ocean conditions. marine mussels are closely related to oysters and scallops and can be smoked, boiled, steamed, roasted, barbecued or fried in butter or vegetable oil. In contrast to the sometimes briny, sandy mussels from the east coast or the large and not delicately flavored mussels from New Zealand, the local shellfish are sweet, juicy and clean tasting. Because they are grown in deep water, there is no problem with sand. “Regional mussels all have a distinct taste,” say friedman. he describes hope Ranch mussels as fairly salty and flavorful.

A typical cycle for friedman is winter seeding, followed by a fall harvest when mussels reach a marketable size (40mm). To harvest, a platform is lowered under the mussel lines, which are then cut from the system and brought to the surface and dumped into containers on a nearby vessel. After harvest, mussels are typically placed in seawater tanks for depuration before marketing.

Various types of mussels are available, depending on the season. Variations include mediterranean mussels which have wide shells and very plump meat. They are in season during the summer and fall. Blue mussels are in season winter and spring…smaller then mediterranean mussels, they are prized for their intense flavor. Green-lip mussels which have a green tinge to the edge of their shells. They tend to be very large and are cultivated extensively in New Zealand. And of course there are the hope Ranch mussels of which friedman harvests about 80 thousand pounds a year. he offers that most single servings are about one pound, so his lot feeds quite a few people throughout the season. friedman sells exclusively wholesale. Numerous local restaurants carry his mussels, which you will see on menus listed as hope Ranch mussels.

The following are some great local offerings:

The hARBoR ReSTAuRANT fresh hope Ranch mussels, simmered in white wine with garlic, basil, extra virgin olive oil, tomatoes, slivers of fresh fennel and leeks. Pairs great with a crust of sourdough bread and draught beer or local Sauvignon Blanc.

SLy’S chucK’S wATeRfRoNT gRiLL & The eNDLeSS

“mussels marinière” - in the sailor’s style - are simply steamed in Chardonnay with shallots, and garnished with chopped parsley.

SuMMeR BAR-c Afé

Locally farmed black mussels steamed in butter, white wine, garlic, scallions, tomatoes and served with grilled sourdough.

ALDo’S huNgRy cAT

Local mussels, garlic and herbs steamed in a tomato based broth.

Braised mussels with garlic, butter, coconut, rice, charred bok choy, mint and cilantro.

BoAThouSe cA’DARio

”Spicy steamed mussels” Black mussels and crisp pancetta, sautéed in house made spicy cioppino broth.

Cozze alla marinara—fresh local mussels with garlic in a spicy tomato broth and crusts of bread from our daily Bread Bakery.

Sc ARLeTT BegoNiA

A whimiscal take on surf and turf; smoked local mussels with ‘nduja aioli, a soft, spicy hot spreadable salami with preserved lemon, housemade grilled ciabatta.

JANe

Bowl of fresh local Santa Barbara mussels, sourced daily, with tomato, fresh tarragon, homemade garlic croutons and pernod cream.

PeTiT vALeNTieN medalions of pork tenderloin, steamed New Zealand Green

Lip mussels, shrimp and scallops, white wine and garlic herb broth.

ARch RocK mussels, light beer, garlic, shallots, grain mustard, cream fraiche, served with grilled bread.

ARTS AND LeTTeRS cAfé fiShouSe fresh local black mussels steamed in white wine, garlic and fresh herbs; topped with a light sprinkle of parmesan.

Pacific mussels: Tomatoes and capers in citrus beurre blanc with brown butter croutons.

DowNey’S

Local mussels with Watercress, Sweet Corn & Chili Vinaigrette.

PARADiSe cAfé fresh local mussels steamed in wine, butter, garlic and pernod. Also comes grilled over oak with basil vinaigrette.

LucKy’S STeAKhouSe

A full pound of Prince edward Island Black mussels are steamed in white wine and garlic, and finished with a sauce made from the wine, the cooking juices, Italian San marzano Tomatoes and fresh basil. Served with grilled sourdough.