mussel memories

Philippe Rousseau, managing partner to Stella Mare and Café Stella Bistro in Santa Barbara, grew up on a farm in the heart of the French wine country. He says fresh, organic food was always a big part of his upbringing, but since he wasn’t close to the ocean, mussels were never a big part of the menu at home…until he visited the French coastal city of Concale, when his view of the tasty seafood staple changed forever. “Best mussels ever!,” he says. They were sautéed in a cream sauce and local herbs and served with a crust of bread to soak up all the good stuff, and a bottle of Stella Artois beer.

We sat overlooking the harbor at low tide as the fishermen are harvesting the mussels and bringing them to the dock by the trailer load. At low tide, all the boats are lying on their sides, and there is quite a frenzy (a fresh, distinctive, smelly frenzy!) going on.

Both versions of mussels served at the restaurants feature wine and cream sauces with garden fresh herbs, sweet butter and about a pound of fresh black mussels. Philippe says the dish is best paired with beer, French fries and a crust of bread to get every last, delicious drop!

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feel like cooking your own?

To prepare mussels for cooking you must pull off the “beard” or tuft of fibers that protrudes out from the shells by grabbing it and giving a quick tug. discard any open mussels that do not close. Scrub the outside of the shell clean with cold water. only “de-beard” and prepare mussels when you are ready to cook them because they will not live long after they have been “de-bearded”.

MuSSeLS STeAMeD IN WINe

2 pounds mussels - cleaned and de-bearded

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon chopped shallots

1 tablespoon chopped parsley black pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan with a lid and bring to a boil. Steam the mussels until they open, about five minutes. Serve with the liquid and bread.

MuSSeLS STeAMeD WITH TOMATOeS, GARLIC, AND WINe

1-tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 tablespoon chopped shallots

1/2 pound peeled, seeded, tomatoes

2 pounds mussels - cleaned and de-bearded

1-tablespoon fresh herbs or Italian seasoning

1/4 cup dry white wine black pepper

Sauté the garlic, shallots and tomatoes in oil. Add the mussels, herbs, wine, and pepper. Steam the mussels until they open, about five minutes. Serve as a soup with bread or serve over pasta.

MARINATeD MuSSeLS AND FeNNeL

3 pounds mussels - cleaned and de-bearded

1/2 cup water

2 scallions chopped

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 fennel bulb thinly sliced

2 teaspoons dijon mustard

1/3 cup olive oil

1/4 cup lemon juice salt and pepper to taste

Bring mussels to a boil in a covered saucepan with water. Simmer 2 -3 minutes until the mussels open. Remove mussels from shells. Combine mussels, scallions, seeds, and fennel in a bowl. mix together remaining ingredients and pour over the mussels. mix well and allow the mussels to marinate for at least 30 minutes. Serve with bread.

Recipes courtesy of Bernard Friedman of Santa Barbara Mariculture www.sbmariculture.com and Santa Barbara Fish Market www.sbfish.com

mussel pairings: Wine for the beloved bivalve…

2012 DOMAINe PeLLe MeNeTOuSALON MOROGueS $22 from the Loire valley, this Sauvignon Blanc has a pure nose with aromas of white flowers and citrus followed by vibrant peach, apple, and subtle melon. This is a Light and lively wine with a clean, brisk, persistent finish, and excels when paired with a cleaner mussel dish such as golden mussels steamed in white wine and aromatics, served with poached leeks and apple vinaigrette.

2011 TeRLANO PINOT BIANCO VORBeRG $34 from Alto Adige, Italy. The interplay of fruity aromatic and salty components awaken the palate. Then soft and creamy elements gain greater strength in a wine with a lingering, firmly minerally and spicy character on the aftertaste. This wine is a perfect pairing with a dish such as mussels in a mild garlic cream sauce topped with a dusting of horseradish and slivered pine nuts.

Both wines available for purchase at Renegade Wines 417 Santa Barbara Street Suite A-6 805-5681961 www.renegadewines.com