issue 82 | may/june 2016 www.afoodieworld.com
Our 2016 awards for the best in F&B as chosen by our readers
The Foodie Forks 2016
CEO Lily Ng CTO Derek Kean Editor-in-Chief Alicia Walker Editor-at-Large Celia Hu Digital Editor Keshia Hannam Creative Director Helen Griffiths Designer Jen Paolini Foodie Club & Events Manager Hannah Chung Head of Sales & Marketing Joseph Kwok
It’s our fifth year celebrating the hard-working F&B professionals that continue to serve up the kind of cuisine that Foodie readers love to devour. The votes are in and you have decided who gets to hoist that revered (and metaphorical) fork in the air. I have to say, it is a cool group of winners, made all the more so by our new categories highlighting individuals like food hero and top blogger. Every year our categories grow and we honour more industry peeps, but even so, we lament that we can’t award more of the people that contribute to Hong Kong’s beautifully diverse food scene. Flip to page 18 for the full list of this year’s winners and check out some of the fun pics from the awards party on page 30. This month, we interviewed the founder of a new tea producer in Hong Kong who views tea as an art form and takes pride in the origins of his growers. We also scored Thai recipes from David Thompson from Nahm, along with two travel features on the foods of the Mekong and Addis Ababa that’ll have your feet itching and your taste buds twitching. Don’t forget to congratulate all your personal fave Foodie Forks winners on their incredible achievements in F&B this year and many thanks for all your votes supporting those doing delicious things in this fine food city!
Client Engagement Manager Kathryn Riley
Recipes
Sales Executive Philip Wong Junior Digital Editor Cheuk Fung Ng
Published by Foodie Group, Suite 1401, 14/F, Wah Hing Commercial Building, 283 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, HK www.afoodieworld.com
Alicia Walker Editor-in-Chief alicia@afoodieworld.com
Foodie Panel
Food-loving folk who’ve helped us this month:
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If you’d like us to help you to promote your brand, please contact Joseph Kwok at sales@afoodieworld.com, 3791 2565
Aaron Stair
Celia Hu
The renowned chef shows us how to recreate his Thai flavours in our own kitchens, p.40
Founder of BASAO premium teas tells us about his journey to bring tea back, p.16
Journeys up and down the Mekong in search of eating adventures, p.32
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David Thompson
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Conte nt s
Foodie Quote of the Month “Food has been my career, my hobby, and, it must be said, my escape.” - Nigel Slater
14 FOOD WAR Jerky Off! We take a bite out of several jerkies to find the tastiest dried meat on the Hong Kong street
16 CHEWIN’ THE FAT… Aaron Stair of BASAO is starting a tea revolution with his new premium teas
32 FOOD NOMAD Celia Hu hops aboard the Aqua Mekong for an eating extravaganza exploring Khmer cuisine
Our Foodie mascot Pickles oversees the cover shoot
Cover story 34 FOODIE FORAYS Keshia Hannam discovers the local cuisine of Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa
40 THAI AND MIGHTY Feisty flavours from Michelinstarred chef David Thompson
18 THE FOODIE FORKS 2016 We lavish praise on the F&B professionals that you, the readers, feel deserve to be awarded this year in our annual celebration of the industry
48 MEATLESS MONTHLY Cindy Lam stirs up eggplant polpettas to brighten your meat-free meals
facebook.com/foodiehk // may/june 2016
DID YOU KNOW: A cluster of bananas is called a ‘hand’ and a single banana is known as a ‘finger’.
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the best of the bloggers
Q. Where were your favourite places to dine this year? Michelle Ng www.chopstixfix.wordpress.com
Ale Wilkinson www.thedimsumdiaries.com Definitely Arcane, Maison Libanaise and Winstons as first time visits. Was very impressed by the new Le Bistro Winebeast (as I expected), as well as Quest by Que’s most recent menu. One that took me totally by surprise is Brickhouse’s new menu Chef Justin Haefler has worked serious magic on it! A trusty favourite I visit at least weekly is Fresca for healthy lunches.
This year I’ve been making more of an effort to dine in rather than out! But I frequently go to V Best in Central for understated, Chinese comfort food; I had a fantastic meal at David Lai’s Fish School; and loved everything at Seasons by Olivier E in Causeway Bay.
Sharon Maloney www.jasmine-ginger.com
Laura Williams www.mylittlehongkongkitchen.blogspot.hk
One of my favourite places to eat has been The Gallery, a lovely little restaurant nestled away in South Lantau. A stone’s throw from Tong Fuk Beach - the perfect place for fresh, home cooked food. The meat and seafood is grilled in front of you on a barbecue in the corner of the outside terrace and the pizzas never fail to impress. A relaxed and friendly atmosphere makes this restaurant the ideal end to a hike or an afternoon down at the beach.
Top five favourites that I keep going back to are NOM, Ham & Sherry, 22 Ships, Aqua, and Chachawan. They are all fantastic for lunch, dinner, drinks, and everything in between! Cocktails too were particularly outstanding and well-curated at these places. NOM, Chachawan and Ham & Sherry are my comfort food go-to’s at reasonable prices. 22 Ships and Aqua provided some great ‘special occasion’ meals with fantastic ambience and setting at different ends of the dining spectrum.
FEATURED FOODIE HK’s Best Eateries for the Indecisive LT Thomas is our contributor of choice this month for her unique and useful article on restaurants that serve so much variety, you can peruse one menu at your leisure without having to stroll up and down streets until your tummy decides what you’re having. Here’s an excerpt:
With around one restaurant to every 300 people, according to government figures, Hong Kong’s density of restaurants is a mixed blessing. It’s great to have so many choices, but for foodies plagued by gluttony or indecision, it’s sometimes hard to make up your mind. Don’t get us wrong, it’s a very nice problem to have, but if you are in a mood where you just don’t know what you want, here are a few eateries that might have what you’re looking for... She goes on to list the best places to dine when you don’t know what to decide on: http://www.afoodieworld.com/ltthomas/6621-hk-s-best-eateries-for-the-indecisive 04
the social foodie
Tempting Foodie-grams and funny food tweets we giggled over this month:
@internetluke
[Hamburglar returns home from a long day of burger stealing] Wife: We need money not burgers
@NicCageMatch
@tlemco
Olives are great if you love the taste of almost drowning in the ocean.
That awkward moment when you try to start a food fi ght by throwing a sandwich but the guy just catches it and says, “Thanks for the sandwich.”
facebook.com/ foodiehk
@foodiehk #foodieworld
pinterest.com/ afoodieworld
www.afoodieworld.com
afoodieworld
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Get Involved! Join the Foodie community
05
foodie club
Bronx Bomber Bronx from Posto Pubblico
Photo by Mabel Lui
Starting off at Grappa’s Cellar, their pizzas differ from most as they use 00 flour for the pizza base. Typically used to make pasta, the flour creates an exceptionally airy and chewy base. Among the three pizzas we tried, the Pizza Todi stood out with its mesclun leaves, arugula, salami, Parma ham, capers, tomatoes, anchovies and Parmesan cheese. This creation was essentially a perfect blend of a pizza and a salad, and is possibly as close as you’ll ever get to a guilt-free pizza. Yes, guilt-free pizza. Tell us that isn’t music to your ears.
The Pizza Todi from Grappa’s Cellar
The Bronx Pizza from Linguini Fini
Photo by Mabel Lui
Pizza... you either love it, or you’re lying. We at Foodie decided to pay homage to our dearest kin and join a pizza marathon with a group of food writers on the fourth edition of the Good Food Tour with foodpanda.
With our pizza cravings slightly subdued, we powered on to our second stop, Posto Pubblico, which was where things started to get intense. The Bronx Bomber topped with crumbled sausage, pepperoni and oregano was a meat fest that had us licking our fingers clean. Posto’s pizzas are all pan-fried, charred, and served in an iron skillet which gives them an extra crispy crust just the way we like it in a Chicago-style deep dish. Our pizza food tour was wrapped up at Linguini Fini, famous for serving enormous-sized New Yorkstyle pizzas that could easily feed eight people. Everything here is homemade from the pizza dough and pepperoni down to the tomato sauce. Linguini Fini is an establishment that takes pride in using only the freshest locally sourced ingredients, and the quality certainly shows. At Linguini Fini you won’t find any of those fancy-schmancy pizzas that have little substance. Just regular, down-to-earth, tasty slices that goes to proving that all it takes for a delicious pizza is piping hot cheese, pepperoni and fresh tomato on a soft, pliable crust with crisp edges, which was exactly what we had with the Bronx. This pizza-themed tour reminded us of how 06
Photo by Mabel Lui
The Good Food Tour: Pizza Edition
easily accessible great quality pizza is in Hong Kong and we won’t be saying goodbye to these carb-fests anytime soon. From Korean restaurants to healthy spots to pizza, foodpanda has taken us on excellent Good Food Tours around Hong Kong. We cannot wait to see where the next tour takes us.
www.foodpanda.hk
Secret Supper: Feast Catering Kitchen If you haven’t heard of Foodie’s Secret Suppers yet, they are a series of fun events filled with great food, wine and an evening of surprises. For our fourth edition of Foodie’s Secret Supper series, we collaborated with Uber for a glamorous ride to the venue and greeted guests with a glass of Prosecco provided by Bottles XO, which they sipped in anticipation of the evening ahead.
measure, with sides of fruit that paired well with a beautiful dessert Champagne Cordon Bleu. How will we ever top this one? If you have any ideas on where our next Secret Supper should be held, get in touch, in secrecy, and we will try to make it happen.
www.feast.com.hk
www.uber.com
www.bottlesxo.com
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
Hearts were beating a little faster as the Ubers left the city, took the Eastern Tunnel out of Hong Kong Island and drove deep into Kowloon. The cars veered into the eerie industrial estate of San Po Kong and guests entered the service lift with trepidation, not knowing where they were or what was to be revealed once the gate opened. A candlelit corridor and canapés were on the other end, and guests stepped inside the venue to find a large, beautifully decorated communal table in an industrial kitchen. Finally, we revealed that the dinner was hosted by Drawing Room Concepts and their catering company, Feast Catering. The masterminds behind Vasco, Isono and AMMO, Drawing Room Concepts launched Feast Catering last year, serving hearty, wholesome and affordable food for any occasion. Guests were certainly treated to a feast, with canapés to start, followed by large sharing platters of zesty quinoa salads and cheese spreads. Bottles XO brought their wine expert Tiago, who paired a floral Chartron La Fleur Sauvingon Blanc with the canapés to whet everyone’s appetites. The staff were on hand to pass around the banquet platters before we moved on to the expertly cooked mains of whole roasted rib-eye, cooked medium rare and sliced in inviting ruby-red pieces, salmon with ginger and lemongrass and a slow-roasted shoulder of lamb that kept us going back for more. Tiago guided us through the reds of the evening, with a Guado al Melo and a Château Brun that went surprisingly well with the spicy salmon and lamb. Out came the cake, the cheese and chocolate and tarts for good
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Food Talk We chat with our MC for this year’s Foodie Forks awards, former Miss Hong Kong, Giselle Lam, about her past, present and future work in Hong Kong’s F&B scene What kind of hosting work do you usually do? Live events such as product launch parties, corporate dinners and fashion press conferences, also I am the HK host for InsiderTV - a touristic programme that shows on trains and hotel inroom channels. In recent years my expertise expanded to fashion styling, food reviewing and MMA fighting. I also participated in quite a few movies too, like the long awaited Cold War II to be released July 8th! Is much of your work based in F&B? While I always have my feet in the entertainment industry, I started to expand my footprint into F&B last year to open up my first restaurant Crafty Cow with my partners. Are you excited to be participating in this year’s Foodie Forks? The Foodie Forks is one of the most trusted awards in F&B with one of the highest reputations in the industry because it’s voted for by the public. Hosting the awards presentation this year means more to me now since I am personally involved in a small part in the F&B industry. How would you sum up Hong Kong’s dining scene? It's diverse, dynamic, and always surprising. One can easily find the world's best 08
flavours in this small city, from street food to fine dining. HK's dining atmosphere never fails to amaze, whether it be locals or international travellers. However, one thing I do think Hong Kong could really improve on, to build an even better dining scene, is the service. What are your favourite Hong Kong foods? Definitely the street foods I grew up with like fish balls, deep fried three treasures, fake shark fin soup and egg pancakes. These are the comfort foods I miss when I am out of town for long periods, because you can never get those same tastes outside of HK. Which establishments would you give a Foodie Fork to this year? Seafood Room is one of my favourite restaurants and the just-opened Ophelia has become one of my top favourite bars in HK recently. My favourite dessert spot, COBO House by 2am:dessertbar, is definitely the best in town this year.
tried & tasted
The Market 2/F, Hotel ICON, 17 Science Museum Road, TST, 3400 1388 尖沙咀科學館道17號唯港薈2樓 What is it? There’s been a lot of hype about this place ever since it opened in 2011, mainly because it takes so long to get a reservation here, sometimes even up to three months! We were very curious to see what was on offer for such a lot of anticipation. The place: Within the confines of the artsy Hotel ICON, which aims to combine traditional and modern Asian hospitality in its function as a training hotel as part of the PolyU, which also means you get the added bonus of extra attentive and enthusiastic staff still in the early stages of honing their trade. The decor of the restaurant is agreeable and features high ceilings and practical furnishings, but the actual buffet design is the real hero. It’s beautifully arranged to look like a food market with open kitchens, highlighting the chefs at work and vast displays of tantalising dishes; this is a restaurant where style points are all firmly aimed at the food with the seating area acting as purely functional.
Verdict: It’s dangerously stocked with a wonderful array of flavours. We wish we’d planned for more time and visited each station individually (rather than stock-piled on one plate) to specifically focus on each as the regular customers were clearly and skillfully doing. As long as your focus is fully on the food, and on eating many different types under one roof, this is the plentiful buffet to spend your money on and worth the long stroll through to TST East.
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
The food: With a huge variety of dishes, this is a special extended eating affair and should be treated as such. The staff mentioned to us that many of their regulars come at 6:30pm for dinner and stay right through till 10pm. It’s nice to know up front that this sort of endurance eating is encouraged so you can really plan your day’s eating (or not eating) accordingly to take advantage of the full offering here ($688 on weekends and $648 from Monday to Thursday). The delights range from East to West with stations for Cantonese, Indian and Malaysian, to cold meats, sushi, pasta and pizza.
On the evening we dined, patrons were particularly thrilled by the seafood and meat selections, filling plates with Boston lobster, prawns, mussels, clams, short ribs and ribeye. There was also a promotion on while we were there with a Thai guest chef serving up bowls of spicy glass noodles and other Thai specialties. The dishes we sampled were exactly of the quality you would hope for in a buffet and we particularly swooned over the double boiled coconut chicken soup that was phenomenal and sent us into real danger of filling up too quickly right from the get-go. There is of course also fruits, cheeses, and a gargantuan dessert bar with a large durian selection that showcased pretty, petite sweets of all types to completely finish you off.
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tried & tasted
New! The Ribcage Shop J, May Sun Building, 1 Smithfield, Kennedy Town, 3956 4213 西環堅尼地城士美非路1號美新大廈地下J號舖 “I want my baby back, baby back ribs”: Dr. Evil’s spy, the unfortunately named “Fat Bastard”, proclaimed this slogan repeatedly in the movie Austin Powers, and we were chanting the same motto as we stepped into this new barbecue joint in the rapidly gentrifying Kennedy Town. The small, minimalist shop zeros in on one thing, and a quick peruse through the menu confirms that this is not a place for vegetarians! Chef and owner Ken Lo has been passionate about his beef and pork rib barbecue since his days in Toronto, Canada. Following his move to Hong Kong, he noticed a serious lack of good rib joints, so decided to start his own. His Kansas-style barbecue starts off with a secret homemade dry rub before a hickory and applewood slow-smoking session that lasts more than four hours. To get around government regulations that bans indoor smoking grills, Ken has imported special ovens that keep all the smoke inside and further infuse the meat with heady aromas. As happy as a hog in mud: Our tasting began with a generous rack of USA baby back pork ribs ($148 for the half rack, $248 for the full) 10
basted in a subtly tangy tomato-based barbecue sauce. The juicy ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender, yet still retained enough structure for a satisfying meaty chew. This was all washed down with ice-cold La Goudale blonde ale. As sides, we crunched on thin-cut beef fat fries ($38) dusted in paprika and refreshing coleslaw ($28). The Ribcage’s coleslaw was a welcomed deviation from the over-sauced variations widely found in Hong Kong, and the lightly dressed salad had the addition of beetroot and nasi pear to give it irresistible sweet crunch. The big boy came in the form of an entire beef short rib ($298), rubbed in salt and paprika to accentuate the beefy flavours before going into the smoker. Lightly glazed with the same tangy barbecue sauce as the pork ribs, and top grill broiled to caramelised perfection, this bad boy was what carnivore dreams are made of. Tender, juicy, and incredibly rich thanks to all that beef fat, the rib made for immensely pleasurable eating. Verdict: This place is the real deal. The ribs are finger-lickin’ good, and we loved how the flavours were not so in-your-face overpowering like many American rib joints. It allowed the high quality of the meat to shine through. The relatively subtle barbecue sauce was perfect for more demure Asian palates. After all, if you have a good product, you don’t need to shout the loudest to be heard.
DiVino Patio Shop 11, 1/F, BRIM28, Causeway Bay Centre, 28 Harbour Road, Wanchai, 2877 3552 灣仔港灣道28號Brim 28灣景中心1樓11號舖 What’s new? Well, we’ll tell you what isn’t new, and that’s this long-standing Divino Patio chef’s commitment to using nourishing ingredients in all his dishes. We hadn’t realised his passionate resolve to ensuring his diners are ingesting items that are both delicious as well as nutritious, and from reputable, traceable sources. This is highlighted in the new menu where chef Michele Senigaglia experiments with dishes that are light, healthy and designed for those with special dietary requirements, as well as keeping all the guests old favourites on the menu as well. They have also included an optional Green Mondays meat-free selection and healthy kids' menu to reflect the requests of many Hong Kongers' changing attitude towards health-conscious eating. The new dishes: We sampled a slow cooked cuttlefish tagliatelle ($178) that was beautifully presented sat atop a circle of Italian black rice that was full of fibre and flavour. The baby spinach salad ($138) was chock full of things we love: quinoa, grapefruit, fresh fennel, heart of palm and pecans while the pan seared swordfish steak ($188) was simply flavoured
NEW MENU and served with sun-blushed tomatoes, wild rocket and waffle potato chips. We gorged on the burger ($188) made from certified Fassone Piemontesem, a delicate ground beef from cattle known for their naturally lean yet tasty meat. We finished with a famous Pistocchi cake ($98) from Italy, a completely egg-free, sugar-free and gluten-free ending made with five different types of chocolate that was both sinfully delicious and perfectly pious all in one. The meal was accompanied by an Rossojbleo Nero D’avola organic wine, a radiant red that was light and fruity and an exceptional complement to the cuisine.
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
The verdict: We left having sampled some delightful dishes and felt light but sated. It was a pleasant surprise after so many dishes to not feel weighted down and in need of a run down the harbour to shed an overstuffed feeling. We had a quick taste of a slice of the gluten-free pizza and unfortunately the stodgy unforgiving base was the only real miss of the evening (and we ached for their regular pizza base which is thankfully still on the menu as well). But we appreciated the effort and creativity that went into all these health-conscious creations (as no doubt will the gluten-intolerant) and we loved almost everything we devoured. We will be back for more lunches and dinners served in a lovely and sophisticated setting with meals that feel light on the body but full on the palate.
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food war
WHAT A JERKY One of the top recommended survival foods to stockpile for an impending disaster, also happens to be delicious, depending on the brand. We did the tasting so you can do the hoarding
JIN AN JI 金安記
759 阿信屋
Available at Taste supermarkets
Available at 759 convenience stores
Product: Spicy Pork Jerky Slices (Packaged) Price and Origin: $15.90 for 60g, from Taiwan. Looks: Did not look overly processed with its natural dark red hue. Also looked quite fibrous compared to the others. Taste: The first thought we had of this one was that its texture was more Western-style. It was more moist than other contenders and had more chew in it, which we liked. One taster thought it reminded her of Christmas. We also liked the slight kick of spiciness at the end that lingered long after. Verdict: Very tasty and very affordable. This is the option we would opt to pack for trips on the road or on the go when we want to avoid carrying fresh jerkies around. Foodie rating:
Product: Preserved Pork with Original Flavour (Packaged) Price and Origin: $10.80 for 50g. It’s a Hong Kong company, but the product is made in China. Looks: Glistening and bright red in appearance. It was a bit too artificial to be really palatable, but then it is supposed to last in an underground bunker, so it’s going to take some chemicals to turn this jerky into a long term chew. But it was still a bit hard to swallow something so otherworldly in appearance. Taste: Pretty in line with how it looks. This one tasted very processed and smelled like cat food. It vaguely resembled bacon fat, but owned a mushy texture. Verdict: Steer clear. Both the look and taste seem to suggest you’re consuming little more than a chemical stick. (In case of nuclear apocalypse, perhaps reconsider?). Foodie rating:
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SOO JERKY Available at Taste supermarkets Product: Fruit Flavoured Pork Jerky (Packaged) Price and Origin: $58 for 85g. Made in Canada. Looks: Quite hairy. Also looked a little bit like rotten meat. The least visually pleasing one of the bunch. Taste: Despite its unsightly appearance, the taste was actually not bad. It had a nice barbecue-y flavour,
although it skewed slightly too much to the sweet side. The fruit flavours did not really come across and the texture was a bit too tough and fibrous for our liking. Verdict: We see potential in this one, but at this price point there are better options. If you do decide to give this contender a go, perhaps eat it while doing something very engrossing to avoid looking at it too much. Foodie rating:
BEE CHENG HIANG 美珍香
KOI KEI BAKERY 鉅記餅家
Shop 1, Ying Kong Mansion, 2-6 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay, 2833 0128
Shop A1, 1 Pak Sha Road, Causeway Bay, 2808 4881
Product: Classic Sliced Pork Jerky (Fresh)
Product: Fresh Barbeque Pork Fillet Jerky (Fresh)
Price and Origin: $21.30 for 50g. Singaporean company, but the jerkies are roasted on the premise of each outlet.
Price and Origin: $57.00 for 290g. Freshly made in Macau.
Looks: Glossy with a natural red tone and slightly burnt on the edges. Fits our ideal image of what good, fresh jerky should look like.
Looks: Very shiny and red but not in an appealing way. The colourings might not be artificial but it’s definitely chock-full of them.
Taste: This was a very well rounded jerky. It was fresh and crispy and the honey-glazed surface gave it a nice, subtle sweetness. It was also smokey and slightly bacon-like, so there were many levels of flavours, and all balanced well with each other.
Taste: Tasted very gummy and sweet, almost like fruit leather. There was also a lot of lard in it which left a greasy aftertaste that made us all chug water afterwards.
Verdict: This was a pretty clear-cut winner. The proof was in the empty bag, as it’s the only one that we finished. Foodie rating:
BEOSICTE CH
Verdict: Quite disappointing. Given this is fresh jerky from a big name brand. We liked their promise of no artificial colouring or preservatives and that they are freshly made in Macau and vacuum packaged, but based on how oily it was, it didn’t warrant a repeat tasting, so maybe we’ll just stick with the pastries when it comes to Koi Kei. Foodie rating:
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
15
chewin’ the fat
Chewin’ the fat with...
AARON STAIR The creator of BASAO on his mission to reignite Hong Kong’s passion for tea
Aaron Stair has turned his life-long love of tea into a profession. His new premium tea
and stumbled across Oolong and Green tea, which I had never seen before. I still remember the packaging and thought they were like mysterious treasures!
range is the result of months spent with individual growers from around Asia ensuring the quality and sustainability of the farmers’ soil and methods that make up every tea in their collection. We spoke with Aaron to discover how tea became his drink of choice, and eventually, his livelihood: What started you on your tea voyage? I have been on this journey for as long as I remember, but if I had to pinpoint a specific moment, I would say it was one day when I was 16 years old and I found an Asian market in my hometown 16
Are you launching the teas worldwide? Currently Hong Kong is our focus. It’s right in the middle of our chosen partnering farms. We can be anywhere we’re needed in several hours, which is critical for us due to the amount of time we spend with our partners. HK is also a fairly tea neutral city meaning that no type of tea is indigenous to the city and the very international nature of the place lends itself to a wide scope of preferences for flavours. Everything we deal with starts and ends (created, warehoused, packaged, etc) in Hong Kong. Tell us about your strict guidelines for clean farming practices? We understand, cooperate,
or even in a few cases, take care of the agriculture for our partners. We are oriented by efforts to increasingly build what could be called a “life-based” model of agriculture as opposed to a “death-based” model. By this I mean the primary focus is on restoring and maintaining life. We have chosen to emulate the natural process of succession in ecology with confidence that these practices are restorative because they are based on replicating healthy natural systems. The “death based” model usually eliminates more than it creates. Industrial synthetic chemical models of agriculture are founded on creating cyclical patterns with the need for larger biology/people to regularly add fertility to soils and, in almost all cases, the need for the use of synthetic pesticides. It creates a condition where eliminating a few pests with insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, etc. At the same time destroys all other life fundamental to healthy ecology and consequentially sterilizes and toxifies the environment. Bluntly stated, in a theoretical sense, it ends up being a type of ecological genocide wherein the successful growth of the few is dependent upon the death of the many.
Tell us about the mini films that show the tea origins: It’s all about connections and communities. We have a brilliant opportunity with tea to talk about the whole story of its life, from sun and soil, to people enjoying great teas wherever they may be. One of the things we want to achieve is to increasingly help articulate and
What are some of your favourite tea and food pairings? I love cold steeped first flush Darjeeling teas with ice especially from Lingia and Upper Namring. That type of iced tea with a large garden salad makes for a really refreshing lunch. I also love our Traditional Smoky Bohea with a strong dark chocolate. They complement each other really well. A lot of people ask what I do and, when I tell them I’m involved with tea, more often than not I’m asked if I like Chinese tea or English tea. I hope we can help to expand people’s horizons a little and encourage them to sample the amazing variety of teas around the world. What do you see in Hong Kong’s tea future? I see tea moving in the same direction as other drinks like coffee, wine and craft beer. They have all developed in recent years and started reaching new audiences and I think tea is ready for a very similar experience. The next ten or more years should be a really fun and interesting time for anyone looking for better teas.
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
Is it difficult to find tea producers that live up to this criteria? There are clearly measurable factors like availability and potential quantities of tea per year/season for what we need. Then there are factors like intention and dedication to the craft of making tea or if the teas produced fit our flavour preferences. We also need to take into account viewpoints on social and environmental responsibility and if our strategies are aligned. These are all standards that are ongoing and under constant review but we have found that it is not difficult for the tea producers to live up to these if we essentially share a core set of basic values.
recognise the identity of the people and places that create our teas. Tea can often be considered a commodity, in the sense that it is nameless and faceless in the same way as products such as copper or crude oil. We believe that tea is a craft and an art and we want to recognise the stories behind each tea that we produce. The reaction to the origin films has been great so far. I think people are becoming more and more interested in the social aspects of products and experiences as we all realise it’s important for the world’s future direction.
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SPONSORED BY
Now in its fifth year, the Foodie Forks celebrate all that’s great about Hong Kong’s vibrant, constantly evolving culinary scene. Each category, from Best New Restaurant to Best Dessert Spot, has two winners: readers’ choice (voted by you) and editors’ choice (voted by our editorial team) – plus two honourable mentions. This year, we’re also focusing on the people behind the food, continuing the Chef of the Year category, but also adding Top Blogger and Hong Kong’s very own local Food Hero. And it’s you, our readers, who deserve the biggest Foodie Fork of all, for supporting these establishments by wining and dining your way around town, and then taking the time to share your favourites and honour them for their hard work. Here’s where you loved to eat this year:
Best New Restaurant READERS’ CHOICE
VEA Chef Vicky Cheng steps out on his own this year with a bold new concept and shoots straight to the top of the list. In collaboration with award-winning mixologist Antonio Lai, the two floor venue divides into lounge and restaurant showcasing modern French cuisine in a tasting menu format alongside innovative drink pairings. Hairy crab with shiso and apple? VEA is all about thinking outside the box.
MyHouse
This restaurant features a library of vinyl to share with guests, top resident DJs, a cellar filled with allnatural wines and, most importantly to us, stunning modern European tapas-style dishes created by Chef Peter Birks. It’s different, it’s cool, and we keep coming back again and again.
Combining three of the great loves of Foodie’s life – music, wine and food – MyHouse is our paradise.
26/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, 2323 1715
29-30/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, 2711 8639
EDITORS’ CHOICE
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VEA
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Le Garçon Saigon The zeitgeist masters at Black Sheep have hit the nail on the head yet again with this buzzing Vietnamese brasserie that raked in your votes without even relying on pho to draw the crowds. 12-18 Wing Fung Street, Wanchai, 2455 2499
Cobo House by 2am:dessertbar
MyHouse
The votes proved that Asia’s best pastry chef winner Janice Wong’s first full menu (not strictly desserts), and first Hong Kong foray was a huge success with your taste buds. G/F & 1/F, 8-12 South Lane, Shek Tong Tsui, Western District, 2656 3088
Best New Bar READER’S CHOICE
Cobo House by 2am:dessertbar
Foxglove From the creators of Mrs. Pound comes another bold yet elusive concept. Behind the storefront of a refined umbrella shop lies this hidden speakeasy. The plush interior is an ode to the golden era of the 1940s, where live jazz and painstakingly crafted cocktails reigned supreme. Foxglove is a meeting of old world finesse and cutting edge innovation. Have a wander around and you may just find an entirely new secret passageway... but shh...you didn’t hear it from us.
Foxglove
2/F, Printing House, 6 Duddell Street, Central, 2116 8949
EDITORS’ CHOICE Run by the team behind another much-loved Foodie watering hole, Djiboutii, industrial-chic Cuban bar Deligator not only mixes up mighty fine mojitos and daiquiris, but also on the menu are excellent sandwiches, Cubano amongst them. With live music heating up the place, Deligator’s sexy vibe seals the deal for guaranteed fun. Shop G, 2 Johnston Road, Wanchai, 3708 8508
Deligator
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
Deligator
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HONOURABLE MENTIONS
The Pontiac Votes rained down for this hot, edgy bar helmed by award-winning mixologist Beckaly Franks. 13 Old Bailey St, Central, 2521 3855
Cé La Vi It’s our guess that it was the tropical garden rooftop, party atmosphere, and exceptional desserts that had you voting for this LKF hot spot that’s breathing new life into the district. 25/F, California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 3700 2300
Frédéric Peneau
Chef of the Year READERS’ CHOICE
Philippe Orrico of Tartine and Picnic Chef Oricco has certainly had his plate full this year with the opening of Tartine and Picnic in addition to his Upper Modern Bistro and ON Dining. His dedication has not been overlooked as indicated by both your votes and with ON Dining being awarded its first Michelin star at the end of last year.
EDITORS’ CHOICE
Frédéric Peneau of Serge et Le Phoque Cé La Vi
Since its opening a few years back, we’ve been Serge et Le Phoque groupies. This bright, clean and cosy French restaurant is located in the midst of Wan Chai’s bustling market neighbourhood: it may seem incongruous at first, but it really works. Peneau’s almond dacquoise was the hit of the Taste Festival in HK this year, and we stil crave it frequently.
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
May Chow of Little Bao We love this cool indie chef and clearly all you Foodies agree! We can’t wait to try her brand new Tai Hang beer bar, Second Draft.
Que Vinh Dang of Quest by Que
Philippe Orrico
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We were big fans of TBLS and are equally enthusiastic about his latest restaurant, Quest, where chef Que uses seasonal ingredients to create mind-blowing dishes.
foodie forks
Épure
Best Restaurant
Tate Dining Room & Bar
READERS’ CHOICE
Épure “Less is more” is the slogan behind this relative newcomer to the French fine dining scene, and not simply because of its Fancl group backers. Chef Nicolas Boutin’s menu accentuates the pure flavours of prime French ingredients rather than entertain the frivolous indulgences of excessive molecular gastronomy. The muted rose and gold tones of the plush dining room are a big draw, as is the massive terrace that make it the ideal location for casual sundowners overlooking Hong Kong’s iconic skyline. Shop 403, 4/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 17 Canton Road, TST, 3185 8338
EDITORS’ CHOICE
Arcane
3/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, 2728 0178
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Tate Dining Room & Bar Tate provides a memorable eating experience with stunning dishes from 2015’s Asia’s best female chef, Vicky Lau. 59 Elgin St, Soho, Central, 2555 2172
Serge et Le Phoque Votes were plentiful for this Parisian-cool bistro serving up progressive French cuisine that gained them their first Michelin star last year. Shop B2, Tower 1, The Zenith, 3 Wan Chai Road, Wanchai, 5465 2000
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
Ah, we’ve lost count of how many times we’ve recommended this modern European restaurant to visitors. Helmed by Australian chef Shane Osborn, formerly of London’s Michelin-starred Pied à Terre, there’s much to love about Arcane: a beautiful Japanese- and French- influenced à la carte menu, a standout set lunch menu, elegant, soothing decor, a lush outdoor terrace and a kitchen garden. It’s LKF’s culinary oasis.
Arcane
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Xin Dau Ji
Legendary Local Food READERS’ CHOICE
Dimdimsum
Xin Dau Ji This Cantonese restaurant became an instant favourite thanks to its reasonable price and extensive fresh seafood selection when it first opened its doors on Cheong Lok Street in Jordan in 2006. Today, the restaurant brand has expanded with its Causeway Bay location, serving up the same delicious fare but in plusher surroundings. Musthaves range from the incredibly crispy suckling pig laced with the perfect amount of creamy fat, to the sizzling hot pot filled with rock oyster, ginger and green onion. Dim sum lunch is also available at the CWB location, whereas the Jordan branch only serves up dinner and late night indulgences. 2/F, Holiday Inn Express, 33 Sharp East Street, Causeway Bay, 3162 8899
EDITORS’ CHOICE
Lok Heung Yuen It may be down and dirty, but each lunchtime, queues form for this Canto coffee shop’s various meat and rice plates. Exceptionally good value for money, the best of the bunch are those topped with egg – we’re partial to the hot mess of char siu and creamy, slightly runny scrambled egg atop a mound of steamed rice. Get it to take away along with a cup of sugary-sweet iced lemon tea and you’ll be set for the rest of the afternoon. No. 8-12 Gilman’s Bazaar, Central, 2522 1377 22
Lok Heung Yuen
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Dimdimsum Dim Sum Specialty Store The name may be a mouthful but the moreishly delicious and inexpensive food is what will leave the most lingering taste in your mouth. 7 Tin Lok Lane, Wanchai, 2891 7677
Seventh Son If you’re looking for a more high-end Canto option, this one is a winner on every level. 5-6/F, Kwan Chart Tower, 6 Tonnochy Road, Wanchai, 2892 2888
foodie forks
Best Casual Restaurant READERS’ CHOICE
Viet Kitchen Delivered by Chef Peter Cuong Franklin won our hearts (and clearly yours too) with this simple Vietnamese diner. The flight of three phos ranging from Saigon beef, Hue spicy pork, to Hong Kong-style duck, will appease any pho junkie, while the soft shell crab rice paper rolls add not only refreshing crunch but also a hefty dose of fresh herbs. Signature banh mi sandwiches and com tam broken rice are lunch favourites. We’re also thankful for the delivery option that allows us to veg out and chow down on delicious, Vietnamese specialties.
Viet Kitchen
Shop G04-G06, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Road, Central, 2806 2068
EDITORS’ CHOICE
Chachawan One of the main reasons Foodie lamented moving offices from Sheung Wan to Wanchai is that it’s now not as easy for us to hit up Chachawan for some utterly delicious (and authentically spicy) Isaan Thai food. Behind this bar and restaurant’s bright green doors is a funky little space that’s always packed to the rafters with punters eager for dishes including green papaya salad (som dtum), saltcrusted stuffed sea bass (pla phao glua) and grilled marinated chicken thighs (gai yung), served up with innovative Thai-inspired cocktails. 206 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, 2549 0020
Momojein
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
TAP - The Ale Project
15 Hak Po Street, Mongkok, 2468 2010
Momojein A beautiful restaurant offering affordable and inventive Korean. Need we say more? Chachawan
23/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, 2789 1949
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
A true Hong Kong pub serving up beers from HK’s own Young Master Ales and pub food with a twist, like the ‘stir fried beef sandwich’. All in conjunction with our fave local baker, Gregoire Michaud of Bread Elements.
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EDITORS’ CHOICE
El Loco Gringo It’s sombreros at the ready at this hidden Mexican taqueria and tequila bar. We’re fans of the tacos and margaritas, but it’s the cool fiesta-like atmosphere that keeps us coming back for more. Basement, 49 Bonham Road, Sai Ying Pun, Western District, 2858 8833
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
The Optimist Impressive ‘Barcelona chic’ decor that demands enjoyment and lengthy conversations over carefully-crafted cocktails and grilled Spanish cuisine.
El Loco Gringo
G-2/F, 239 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, 2433 3324
Rummin’ Tings Delivered by The Roopchand brothers are born fun-makers and this Caribbean-themed bar is an easy choice for a good time, every time. 28 Hollywood Road, Soho, Central, 2523 7070
Limewood
Best Vibe READERS’ CHOICE
Limewood It’s easy to see how Limewood has remained on our list two years running. The formidable combination of breezy beachside location and killer fresh-toorder churros makes Limewood the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. We love the easygoing menu, inspired by South American, Hawaiian and South East Asian flavours. Eggs benedicts (and cocktails) by the beach on a lazy Sunday? Yes please! Shop 103-104, The Pulse, 26-30 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, 2866 8668 24
The Optimist
foodie forks
Best Dessert Spot READERS’ CHOICE
Emack & Bolio’s This laid-back American ice cream parlour reminds us of everything sweet from our childhoods. It’s got that feel-good 90’s vibe that has clearly struck a chord with Foodie dessert-lovers as the votes poured in for this showy newcomer. E&B is about classic ice cream flavours served up in crazy, outrageous cones. Fruit Loops, anyone? 26 Cochrane Street, Central, 2505 6626
EDITORS’ CHOICE
Cong Sao Emack & Bolio’s
We never thought we’d say this, but: order the durian (smell be damned). This local dessert joint serves up a wide array of hot and cold Cantonese desserts – made with jellies, sago, rice, tofu and more – with the most popular showcasing mango and durian. It’s the durian desserts, from pancakes to shaved ice, that are a revelation. 11 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, 2278 2622
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Munchies Delivered by Lab Made
So close to nailing the top prize, our readers’ love this ice cream sandwich shop (and who can blame them!) with their endless varieties made up with either cookies or doughnuts as the “bread” that houses your ice cream flavour of choice. 4 Shin Hing Street, Sheung Wan
This liquid nitrogen ice cream parlor serves up inventive, and often locally-inspired, flavours that we can’t get enough of. Shop G42, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, TST, 9355 4476 Munchies
facebook.com/foodiehk // may/june 2016
Lab Made
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foodie forks
Elephant Grounds
Best Café READERS’ CHOICE
Elephant Grounds This café became a social media darling for its photogenic and enticingly creative ice cream sandwiches, but Elephant Grounds doesn’t just cater to those with a sweet tooth. The various shops also serve up mouthwatering savouries. Our favourite has to be the ebi mayo, a rendition of the popular izakaya dish from Hapa in Vancouver, where some of the café’s chefs hail from. Oh yes, and they also serve up a good cup of joe!
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Teakha This cosy, community-focused café serving tasty teas and creative cakes is a favourite of all who visit. Shop B, 18 Tai Ping Shan Road, Sheung Wan, 2858 9185
Winstons Coffee This teeny tiny SYP café raked in the votes for its cool confines and great daytime cuppas and bespoke cocktails every eve. Shop 4, 213 Queens Road West, Sai Ying Pun, Western District, 2559 5078
Shop C, 42-48 Paterson Street, Fashion Walk, Causeway Bay, 2562 8688 1/F, The Factory, 1 Yip Fat Street, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2562 9000
EDITORS’ CHOICE
3/3rds We no longer have to make the trek to the industrial hinterlands of Wong Chuk Hang for a taste of this cool café’s signature three-cheese toastie – they’ve recently opened a second branch in Central. We also adore 3/3rds’ healthier options, especially the weekly-changing salad selection – who knew chargrilled broccoli could taste so good? Unit D, 22/F, Yally Industrial Building, 6 Yip Fat Street, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 3462 2951 Shop 1, 1/F, Manning House, 38-48 Queen’s Road Central, Central, 2562 8805 26
3/3rds
foodie forks
The Restaurant by The Kinnet
Best Healthy Eats READERS’ CHOICE
MANA! Fast Slow Food Delivered by A forerunner in the healthy eating movement, Mana made the vegan diet crave-worthy and mainstream with its selection of addictive flatbreads. Intoxicating zaatar seasoning coupled with vegetarian toppings make eating healthy both good for the body as well as the taste buds. It’s no surprise that there’s a constant line out the door! 92 Wellington Street, Central, 2851 1611 8 Tai On Terrace, Sheung Wan, 2347 8555
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Pololi Daily fresh fish served up in a Hawaiian poke bowl. We are frequent visitors. 35-39 Graham Street, Central, 2755 8099 4 Swatow Street, Wanchai, 3706 5641
DiVino Patio This Italian eatery serves beautiful food that happens to include in-the-main nourishing ingredients. Even their kids’ menu exudes excellent options for mindful munching. Shop 11, Brim 28, 1/F, Causeway Centre, 28 Harbour Road, Wanchai, 2877 3552
EDITORS’ CHOICE
The Restaurant by The Kinnet We were sceptical at first – a restaurant located within a wellness centre targeted to senior citizens? – but the fresh, vibrant and nutritious food at The Restaurant by The Kinnet soon won us over. The atmosphere is calming, and we like chilling out on the outdoor terrace too. Their breakfast offerings are worth a visit on their own. 3/F, 33 Hillier Street, Sheung Wan, 3968 7623
Mana! Fast Slow Food
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
Delivered by
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foodie forks
Best Macau Restaurant READERS’ CHOICE
The Eight The first and only Chinese restaurant to win three coveted Michelin stars in Macau, The Eight is a lavish affair that showcases the best of Cantonese and Huaiyang cuisine. Sharing the same address as another fellow three-Michelin contemporary, Robuchon au Dôme, The Eight is about adding unexpected flourishes to time-tested recipes. The result is an updated version of classic Cantonese favourites executed with incredible finesse.
The Eight
2/F, Grand de Lisboa Macau, Avenida De Lisboa, Praia Grande, +853 8803 7788
EDITORS’ CHOICE
Lai Heen For a fancy-schmancy meal in Macau, our money’s on this luxurious Cantonese restaurant (literally). Commanding the kitchen is Chef Bill Fu, formerly of Hong Kong’s lauded Tin Lung Heen. The incredible views from this restaurant, located on the 51st floor of the Ritz Carlton, are the perfect match to Chef Fu’s creative cuisine. 51/F, The Ritz-Carlton Macau, Galaxy Macau, ColoaneTaipa, +853 8886 6868
Food Hero READERS’ CHOICE
Peggy Chan
Fine French Michelin-starred cuisine set against the backdrop of the City of Dreams and helmed by star chef Guillaume Galliot.
This formidable woman is a pioneer in plant-based, healthful eating. Growing from humble roots in Sai Ying Pun, Peggy’s organic, vegetarian restaurant, Grassroots Pantry, quickly came into full bloom as a full-day restaurant on buzzy Hollywood Road. Both chef and entrepreneur, Peggy is a trailblazer for nourishing cuisine in the F&B industry.
Level 3, Crown Towers, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Coloane-Taipa, +853 8868 6681
EDITORS’ CHOICE
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
The Tasting Room by Galliot
Gosto Gosto serves authentic Macanese-Portuguese cuisine with jumbo sardines, bacalhau, and baked duck rice pots to die for. Shop G011, East Promenade, Galaxy Macau, ColoaneTaipa, +853 8883 2221 28
Lai Heen
Ming Gor North River (Pei Ho) gained local fame in 2011 when owner Ming started working with a charity in Hong Kong that distributes free rice boxes to the needy in Sham Shui Po – at least 100 meals each week. North River is also known for the extremely modest pricing of its rice sets, which include three dishes for the paltry sum of $22.
Peggy Chan
Ming Gor
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Bobsy Gaia As well known for his socially responsible business ethos as he is for his nourishing vegetarian cuisine at MANA! Fast Slow Food, Bobsy is an ecopreneur that truly represents the future of food.
David Yeung Founder of Green Monday, David has been widely recognised for his environmental work and leading the way towards sustainable, healthy and mindful living as a way of life in Hong Kong.
Blogger of the Year FY Noms Sgt. Noms is splattering her cynical and wildly entertaining remarks all over town. No one is safe from her wagging finger, and her comments are filled with wit and unvarnished honesty. www.fuckyeahnoms.com
My Little Hong Kong Kitchen
EDITORS’ CHOICE
Fine Food Dude Chris Dwyer has inspired us with his passion for dining out in Hong Kong. His reviews are well written, honest and humorous, with gorgeous food shots to match. www.finefooddude.com
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
My Little Hong Kong Kitchen Exquisite photography and delectable recipes made us fall deeply in love with this charming Liverpudlian home chef, Laura Williams. mylittlehongkongkitchen.blogspot.com
Hungry Hong Kong Prolific and dedicated, Daniel Haddad is one of the nicest bloggers on the scene and captured many of your votes for favourite blogger. www.hungryhongkong.net
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
READERS’ CHOICE
Hungry Hong Kong
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Foodie Forks Awards Party We partied our way through another year celebrating your choices for the top F&B establishments in this fine food city with our annual awards on May 30th. The winners got a chance to pat each other on the back for their hard work throughout the year and we got a chance to profess our love for the delights they produce. foodpanda were our title sponsor for the awards, presented by our host, Giselle Lam, and InvestHK, who encourage foreign investment into Hong Kong, supported the event. We ate our way through the beautiful food and drink provided by our sponsors in the cool confines of hmv Bar & Restaurant in Causeway Bay. Thanks for all your votes that ensured those pouring their hearts into their food got a chance to be recognised for their achievements and highlighted the extraordinary energy and commitment it takes to be at the top of the food chain here in Hong Kong. Congratulations to all our winners and honourable mentions!
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2016 Title Sponsor
2016 Venue Sponsor
2016 All Sponsors
NO.
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the food nomad
The Food Nomad On Board the Aqua Mekong
Ahoy! Celia Hu weaves through the Mekong with Michelin-starred chef David Thompson to experience the best of Khmer cuisine Where there is water, there is life. As the longest river in Southeast Asia, the mighty Mekong meanders through six countries before emptying into the South China Sea. From her origins in China’s Qinghai province, the river gains momentum with the inflow of pristine ice melts from Tibet before she transgresses through the Golden Triangle into Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. Second only to the Amazon in biodiversity, the Mekong’s 4800 kilometres is home to an abundance of plant and animal life, and is the pulsing vein that sustains the livelihood of 60 million people. Her murky waters teem with more than 850 species of fish, with aquatic giants such as the freshwater stingray and giant catfish growing to almost mythical proportions in her mysterious depths.
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the food nomad
Life on this great river is best observed from the water, and we did precisely this on board the luxurious Aqua Mekong. The sleek one-year-old riverboat is an exquisite floating five-star hotel, and can accommodate up to 40 lucky guests in demure luxury. Creature comforts such as a rejuvenating spa, an indoor theatre, a dip pool, a games room and library, plus indoor and outdoor lounges ensure that guests soak up the best of the Mekong in style. Four nimble skiffs whisk intrepid travellers through floating villages and lush river grass to secluded temples and bustling local markets for a taste of life on the Mekong delta.
Day 1 After a rather dusty tuk-tuk ride through Phnom Penh, we arrive at the Elephant Bar in Raffles Hotel le Royal for refreshing bottles of Cambodia’s iconic Angkor beer before boarding the Aqua Mekong. A cool glass of citrusy ice tea and a
Day 2 Following a hearty breakfast of addictive buttery pain au chocolat and fluffy ricotta pancakes, we voyaged to a floating village. Fishermen anchor their homes on these floating platforms, which rise with the flood during the monsoon season. Each house sits on top of its own fish farm, from which the fishermen supplement their daily catch during low season. Access to these farms are often through a trapdoor in the living room floor! Our next stop was at a silversmith village called Koh Chen, revered as the Khmer royal family’s
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
Michelin-starred chef David Thompson of renowned Nahm restaurant in Bangkok is the man behind the menu on the Aqua Mekong. On our threenight “discovery” cruise of the Mekong, David was on board to sail through the ship’s culinary concept with us. A trailblazer in Southeast Asian cuisine, David’s menu reflects the unique produce and traditional recipes of the locale. Family-style meals shift from rich fish amok in Cambodia to refreshing rice paper rolls as the Aqua Mekong glides into Vietnam. Each dish serves to enhance the authenticity of the journey.
relaxing shower settled us into our stylish cabins on board the ship, and our first night began with a formal welcome by Aqua Mekong’s captain and crew, followed by a mesmerisingly beautiful Khmer Apsara dance performance.
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the food nomad
coveted silverware supplier. We watched local artisans skilfully pound intricate designs into pure silver pots before visiting a gilded Buddhist temple. After weaving through golden temples to fantastical fables told by our very knowledgeable guide, we watched saffron-robed monks in prayer in a great hall blanketed in vivid murals. During the mercilessly hot afternoon, we took refuge in Aqua Mekong’s relaxing spa for a hour long massage before attending David Thompson’s masterclass. We watched the skilled chefs transform a melon into a blooming flower with a few slashes of a knife, and learned the secrets behind the making of fish amok and Thai crab omelette from chef Thompson himself. As temperatures cooled in the early evening, we took a walking tour of a nearby village to see how the Khmer people deal with the region’s wet and dry seasons. The solution- build everything on stilts and always keep a boat handy for when the village is overtaken by the river! Throughout our tour, we were followed by giggling children, and we learned that the Aqua Mekong collaborates with the nonprofit organisation Room to Read to set up literacy programs in the village.
DID YOU KNOW? The Mekong is home to some of the world’s biggest freshwater fish. Recently, a 2.7 metre catfish was caught in Mekong waters near northern Thailand. The beast weighed 646 pounds and was as big as a grizzly bear!
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Day 3 To make the most of the relatively cooler morning temperature, we ventured into the town of Kampong Chhnang to hunt for local produce with chef Thompson. The local market was a labyrinth of unique ingredients ranging from plucked water fowl, to fermented river shrimp, to the very sinister looking snakehead fish. The narrow walkways also teemed with street food from spiced snails to stuffed frogs and juicy palm fruit. Our favourite was the fresh lotus seeds, peeking out from green pods. Dried lotus seed is a key ingredient in Chinese desserts, but it was our first time tasting it fresh from the pod. Each seed was subtly sweet with a
slightly bitter undertone reminiscent of gingko nuts. It was the perfect healthy snack to go with a chilled Angkor lager! Whilst the sun was still low in the sky, we biked through rice paddies to watch a 72-year old master scale towering palm trees to harvest sap from the palm flowers. The elder definitely knows his way around heights, since he has over 56 years experience climbing these trees. A neighbouring pottery maker showed us how to craft clay pots within minutes without a wheel but rather walking in a circular motion around the pot. It was a brief glimpse of the local culture and a deeply pleasant excursion. On our cruise back to Phnom Penh we stopped at the village of one of the ship’s bartenders, who graciously invited us to his home for a taste of his mum’s home cooking. We were treated to delicious steamed bamboo sticky rice with banana, and sweet pumpkin doused with coconut milk wrapped in banana leaves. Traditional ox carts took us to our sundowner drinks in the midst of a rice paddy. There, we chatted with the field owner and his grandchildren, sipped chilled bubbly and snacked on local spiced beef jerky while watching the sun climb under the horizon on another spectacularly adventurous day.
DID YOU KNOW? Flooding is a highly anticipated event each year, as the rising water disperses rich minerals that make the river delta incredibly fertile. Water levels can increase by eight meters, making stilt and floating houses essential to delta inhabitants.
Day 4 We awoke in the harbour of bustling Phnom Penh. The cruise was a fairy tale journey into the mystic of the Mekong, and an eye-opening experience of life on this great river. Before we bid farewell to Cambodia, we took a whirlwind trip through the city to visit the ornate Royal Palace and National Museum. Cambodia, until next time!
Three trip options are available, ranging from the 3-night Discovery cruise (starting at US$3660), to the 4-night Explorer cruise (starting at US$4880), to the 7-night Expedition cruise (starting at US$8540). There is also two sister fleets under the Aqua banner that run on the Amazon river.
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
The Aqua Mekong operates year-round between Cambodia and Vietnam, and sightseeing itineraries that rotate depending on high and low water seasons.
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FOODIE FORAYS Addis Ababa Keshia Hannam seeks out one of Africa’s coolest cities amd discovers the depths of this under-the-radar capital of Ethiopia As recently as the early 90s, Addis Ababa was gripped by a civil war under the dictatorship of Mengistu Haile Mariam. For much of the globe, Addis remains an unknown quantity, vaguely associated with East Africa and coffee. In reality, Addis is pitched as the capital of Africa; a city that tells the story of the drive and innovation present in a culture which exists simultaneously beside a deep pride in, and respect for, being Ethiopian. This juxtaposing value system means traditional shoulder dancing and ‘Ethio Jazz’ are upheld in the same esteem as upcoming fashion designers and a rapidly developing economy.
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foodie forays
Day 1 When it comes to food, the best is still the traditional fare. We are advised to order anything fermented–local beer and injera (flat bread made from fermented superfood teff) are in top form in this city. Vegetarians are well catered to as Ethiopians (of certain religious beliefs) fast many days of the year according to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church’s ritual, which means they omit meat and dairy on a regular basis. And the coffee: after trying Ethiopian coffee, you’ll probably never go back to a cappuccino again. Arrive at 7am at ADD International Airport. All direct flights with Ethiopian airways depart Hong Kong at either 1230 or 0100 and arrive 0700 or 0730, everyday. Travel via airport transfer to Harmony Hotel in the area of Bole for easy access to everything and close proximity to the airport. 8:30am Hop over the road and start the day with an overly large dose of sugar. Even those with a great dislike of sweet cakes might be persuaded by the traditional honey cake at Cupcake Delights Bakery. This chewy, golden treat goes well with a traditional tea infused with cinnamon.
12:30am Though gaining insight into dark history isn’t always top of people’s list of experiences when in a new land, it’s important to know the details of a culture, no matter how gory. The confronting feelings which are incurred by a visit to the Red Terror Martyrs
Red Terror Martyrs Memorial Museum: Bole Road, Addis Ababa, +251 11 515 6197
4:00pm A food tour for people who might be averse to tours is what Addis Eats provides, offering an experience which is more like going to five different eateries with an Addis local and a couple of other out-of-towners than being paraded about as “obviously not from here and naive enough to buy that pair of slippers”. You’ll be very full by the end of this tour led by charismatic hosts, who will lead you through hidden gems that serve traditional vegetarian plates to a coffee ceremony, a juice bar offering deliciously thick (often avocado incorporated) fresh juice and finishing with Ethiopian favourite kibs- a type of flavoursome cubed beef stir fry. Addis Eats: addiseats.com
9:00pm There will be no panicking at this disco, but there will be a lot of Ethiopian jazz. The African Jazz Village at the Hotel Ghion was founded by Mulatu Astatke, aka the father of Ethio Jazz. This style of music is addictive, blending traditional Ethiopian rhythms with Afro-funk, jazz, soul and Latin melodies. The intimate venue is an ideal place to listen to first class artists. The African Jazz Village: Ras Desta Damtue Avenue, around National Stadium, Addis Ababa 1643.
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
Cupcake Delights Bakery: Bole, opposite Beer Garden Inn, Addis Ababa, +251 91 262 5271.
Memorial Museum offer vital perspective to the days of the socialist governing bodies, and for that reason it’s useful to dedicate a good chunk of time here at the beginning of the trip.
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Day 2 9:00am Coffee doesn’t get much better than at Tomoca, the chicest and most established coffee outpost in Addis (a feat in a country that takes its coffee as seriously as the Indians take their chai). There are a few of them around town, but this one is a modern espresso bar that wouldn’t be amiss in Seattle. (For those seeing a more ‘authentic’ coffee experience, another store exists on Churchill Avenue on Wawel Street.) Tomoca Coffee: Wawel Street, Addis Ababa. tomocacoffee.com
12:30am Walk literally two metres down the road to Kategna, a favourite with locals and the kind of place you feel like you want to be seen in. The ginger tea (ask for ginger only) is particularly good here, and serves as a primer for the luxurious platter (the veg and meat are great) and the injera is some of the best in the city. Add a fried fish, which is a local delicacy, served whole with scores in the flesh for easy eating. Squeeze a touch of lime over for euphoric eating. Kategna: Gabon Street, Addis Ababa, +251 091 151 2400.
6:30pm Honey wine (tej), a communal meal and live music; all the makings of a memorable final night in the city. Order as much as your party can handle so you can try as much as possible, but do not leave without eating the fasting plate (vegetarian) and the shiro. Traditional dance and music ensue, which goes very nicely with the tej if you have any left. Get
involved if they ask, there are few more enjoyable challenges than trying to master Ethiopian shoulder dancing. Yod Abyssyinia Traditional Food: Bole Medhaniyalem Area, Addis Ababa, + 251 011 611 2985. yodethiopia.com
11:30pm Because flights back to Hong Kong with Ethiopian Airlines depart around 1am everyday, arrive at the airport a little earlier than normal to hit one last coffee before you leave. The macchiato is a signature of Ethiopian coffee culture, and oddly, the macchiato available at the coffee shop which sits to the far left of the terminal looking out towards the planes might just be one of the best in the city. ADD International Airport
Honey Cake from Cupcake Delights Bakery
Photo by Aziz Ahmed
foodie forays
Livin’ La Dolce Vita with hmv Bar & Restaurant’s New A La Carte Menu Leading entertainment brand hmv is following up its brandspanking-new three-storey flagship store in Causeway Bay – the world’s largest at over 38,000 square feet – with a delicious-sounding new Italian-inspired menu crafted by Executive Chef Macy Lai, who apprenticed in Italy. On the menu, Chef Lai’s homemade pasta and pizza are the stars of the show. Pastas include traditional spaghetti carbonara – made with eggs, guanciale (cured pork cheek) and Pecorino cheese – organic broccoli penne, which features broccoli imported from Italy, and Grandma’s style spaghetti bolognese, made with Australian Wagyu beef, Parma ham and porcini mushrooms. If diners are hankering for pizza instead, Chef Lai’s authentic pizza margherita is a stellar choice. Whether pizza or pasta, be sure to order the chef’s whimsical tiramisu cone for dessert... Buon appetito!
www.hmv.com.hk hmv Bar & Restaurant
hmvBarRestaurant
4/F, PEARL CITY 22-36 PATERSON STREET CAUSEWAY BAY, HONG KONG TEL: 2504 1838 FOR RESERVATION
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Renowned for receiving the first ever Michelin-star for Thai cuisine, chef David Thompson of Nahm shows us how to create our own award-winning Thai temptations at home 40
Photo by Bite Studio
thai and mighty
recipes
shaved zucchini salad with parmesan Serves: 10 Prep time: 25 mins
Ingredients: • 2 large zucchini • 2 red onions, thinly sliced • 100g capers, rinsed and drained • Salt and black pepper, to taste • 6 tbsp red wine vinegar • 12 tbsp olive oil • Lemon zest, julienned • Basil leaves, roughly torn • 300g golden raisins • Parmesan, to garnish Method:
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facebook.com/foodiehk // may-june 2016
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Slice the zucchinis lengthwise and set aside. Thinly slice red onions and then marinate them with the capers, salt, pepper, red wine vinegar and olive oil. Leave for around 10 minutes until the onions have softened. When ready to serve, mix together the zucchini, onion mix, torn basil leaves and the raisins. Marinate for 2 minutes until the zucchini are soft. Scatter on a serving plate with thinly sliced or shaved Parmesan cheese.
Photo by Bite Studio
1.
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prawns with herb sauce and coconut cream Serves: 10 Prep time: 25 mins Cooking time: 10 mins
Ingredients: Sauce • 1½ cups palm sugar • 1 cup lime juice • 1½ cups mandarin juice • A sizeable pinch of galangal powder • A delicate pinch of mandarin powder • A large pinch of toasted chilli powder • 2 tbsp deep-fried garlic • 2-4 tbsp fish sauce Herbs • 1 cup Thai garlic, sliced • 1 cup red shallots, sliced • ½ cup wild ginger, grated • 1 cup young ginger, grated • 1 cup green mango, finely sliced • 1 cup pineapple, sliced • ½ cup star fruit, sliced • 1 cup sour leaves, chopped • 1 cup Asian (Thai) basil leaves • 2 tbsp mandarin zest Prawns • 40 cleaned prawns, blanched • 2 cups coconut cream • Coarse dried prawns, to garnish
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Combine all the ingredients for the sauce and stir until the sugars have dissolved. Prepare all the herbs and blanch the cleaned prawns. Combine all of the above and mix in the coconut cream. Serve sprinkled with dried prawns.
Photo by Bite Studio
Method:
Photo by Bite Studio
recipes
grouper with ginger and asian celery Serves: 10 Prep time: 25 mins Cooking time: 10 mins
Fish • • • • • • • •
10 generous pieces of fish, filleted 2 onions, sliced into thick pieces 3 stalks Chinese celery, finely chopped Ginger, grated 2 tbsp deep-fried garlic Coriander, finely chopped A bunch of spring onions, sliced Ground white pepper
Method: Ingredients: Paste • 4 coriander roots • 1 celery root • ½ cup red shallots • 3 tbsp garlic • 3 tbsp peeled ginger • Ground white pepper
2.
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4. 5.
In a pestle and mortar or blender, grind the coriander roots, celery root, shallots, garlic, ginger and ground white pepper to make a paste for the fish. Heat the oil in a wok. Fry the paste until cooked but not too coloured. Add the yellow beans and simmer until aromatic. Season with the sugar, spices, wine and vinegar and simmer for several minutes. Taste to make sure it is not too salty. This can be made well in advance. Cut fillet fish into portions. Cover a steaming tray with onions and top with the celery stalks and ginger. Keep the celery leaves aside to garnish. Place the fish over the vegetables. Cover with the prepared sauce and sprinkle the deep-fried garlic and pepper. Steam for 15 minutes or until cooked through and not opaque in colour. Serve sprinkled with celery leaves, chopped coriander, spring onions and pepper.
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
Yellow Bean Sauce • ½ cup oil • 3 cups yellow bean sauce • 3-4 tbsp white sugar • A liberal pinch of star anise powder • Galangal powder • 2 tbsp white pepper • ½ cup Chinese rice wine • A little white vinegar
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Photo by Bite Studio
recipes
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recipes
braised pork ribs in young coconut juice Serves: 10 Prep time: 40 mins Cooking time: 60 mins
Ingredients: 3 red shallots, finely diced 1 tbsp fish sauce 3 tbsp oyster sauce 8 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp salt 1 tbsp pepper 4 tbsp garlic, minced 1kg pork ribs, cut into 3 cm pieces 80g palm sugar 600ml young coconut juice 1 brown onion, sliced Coriander sprigs to garnish
Method: 1.
Combine shallots, fish sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, salt, pepper and half the garlic in a
Photo by Bite Studio
2.
3.
4. 5.
www.afoodieworld.com // may/june 2016
• • • • • • • • • • • •
metal bowl. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the ribs and really work in the marinade. Set aside for 30 mins. Drain the pork ribs and reserve the marinade. In a wok filled with enough oil to submerge the pork ribs, fry until nicely golden brown. Place on paper towels to drain off excess oil. Heat the palm sugar in a pot until it caramelises, then pour in the marinade. Stir. Add the pork ribs and the coconut juice and bring to a simmer. Braise until tender, approx 30 to 40 mins. Take out the pork ribs if needed and reduce the liquid to a half glaze consistency. Put the pork ribs back into the pot and add the onion and the remaining garlic. Garnish with coriander sprigs and serve.
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recipes
deep-fried sea bass with three-flavoured sauce Serves: 10 Prep time: 20 mins Cooking time: 25 mins
Ingredients: Sauce • 1 cup chopped coriander roots • 3 cups long red or green chillies, deseeded and coarsely chopped • 2 cups garlic cloves • 2 cups red shallots • Oil, for shallow frying • 3 cups palm sugar • 2 cups tamarind water • ½ cup fish sauce Fish • • • • • • 46
3-4 fillets sea bass Fish sauce, for marinating A pinch of white sugar Oil, for deep-frying A handful of deep-fried hot basil leaves A handful of deep-fried shallots
• •
A handful of deep-fried garlic Crushed chillies
Method: 1.
2.
3.
With a pestle and mortar or blender, coarsely grind the coriander roots with the chillies, garlic and shallots. Fry the paste in a little oil for several minutes until aromatic. Season with palm sugar, then add 2 or 3 tablespoons of water if necessary and simmer until thick. Add tamarind water and fish sauce and continue to simmer until reduced once more. Season so the sauce should be sweet, sour, spicy and salty. Clean the fish, then marinate in fish sauce and sugar for a few minutes. Drain and deep-fry until crisp. Coat the fish with the sauce and serve sprinkled with deep-fried basil, shallots, garlic and crushed chillies.
Photo by Bite Studio
Photo by Bite Studio
recipes
cassata Serves: 10 Prep time: 15 mins Cooking time: 3 hrs
• • • • •
Some of the alcohol from the macerated fruits 1 litre cream ½ cup shelled pistachios, chopped ½ cup chopped chocolate 2-3 tbsp crushed bitter almonds or Chinese apricot kernels (optional)
Method: 1. Ingredients: Macerated Dried Fruits • ½ cup dried sultanas • ½ cup diced apricots • ½ cup maraschino • ¼ cup glazed ginger, optional • ½ cup angelica, optional • 2 cups mixed alcohol, such as brandy • 2 teabags • 1 vanilla pod Buttered Almonds • 2 cups flaked almonds • ½ cup butter • ½ cup pure icing sugar Sabayon • 12 egg yolks • A pinch of salt • 250g white sugar
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Finely chop the dried fruit and ginger and soak (macerate) the pieces in the alcohol along with the teabags and vanilla pod. Toast the almonds in a shallow pan and when they begin to colour, add the butter and continue toasting. When they are golden, sprinkle the icing sugar and continue cooking until the almonds are very slightly caramelised. In a bowl, beat the egg yolks with the sugar, salt and alcohol until pale and tripled in volume. Leave aside. Whip the cream until it has soft peaks. Combine the egg mixture and whipped cream with half of the macerated fruits. Place mixture into the freezer and when it has firmed slightly, fold almost all of the remaining fruit, pistachios, bitter almonds and chopped chocolate into the cassata. Place in a lined mould and freeze until it has set completely. Serve sprinkled with the remaining fruits, chocolate, buttered almonds, and optional toppings. 47
meatless monthly Cindy Lam from ms food division cooks delicious vegetarian recipes that support local farms and promote good old home-cooking. www.msfooddivision.com
eggplant polpetta Yields: 8-10 polpettas Prep time: 10-15 mins Cooking time: 60 mins
Ingredients: •
1 medium size eggplant, cut into small dices
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2 eggs
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1/2 can lentils
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1 bowl cooked brown rice
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3-4 tbsp chickpea flour
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2 garlic cloves
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2 tbsp chopped spring onion
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1 tsp finely chopped ginger
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1 tbsp soy sauce
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1-1.5 cup breadcrumbs
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1 tsp mixed spices powder
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2-3 tbsp olive oil
Method: 1. Preheat the oven to 180ºC. On a baking tray, drizzle 2-3 tbsp of olive oil with eggplants and garlics. Season. Roast for about 20-25 minutes. Remove from the oven. 2. Blend the squeezed garlic pulps, eggplant, and 1 cup of breadcrumbs in a food processor until the mixture is smooth. 3. Transfer the eggplant mixture to a large mixing bowl. Mix brown rice, lentils, eggs, chickpea flour, spring onion, chopped ginger, soy sauce, and mixed spices powder. Season a tiny bit if you like. 4. Use your hands to make each small eggplant ball (polpetta) and sprinkle more breadcrumbs around each polpetta. Transfer these little polpettas to a baking tray with a baking sheet. Roast them for around 25-30 minutes. 5. Serve the eggplant polpetta with whatever sauce you like. I served them with sriracha yoghurt and mayo sauce. 48
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