issue 77 | december 2015 www.afoodieworld.com
Fish Suppers Recipes from The Ocean
Christmas Countdown Gifts, menus and hampers for festive feasting
Sustainable Seafood There are not plenty more fish in the sea
Fish Matters
CEO Lily Ng CTO Derek Kean Editor-in-Chief Alicia Walker Editor-at-Large Celia Hu Digital Editor Keshia Hannam Creative Director Helen Griffiths Designer Robert Li Foodie Club & Events Manager Hannah Chung
We take to the seas this month, diving deep into the issue of sustainable seafood on our shores. We talk to experts from The Ocean Recovery Alliance, WWF and a sustainable grouper farm here in Hong Kong, to find out the importance of taking responsibility in our daily fish ordering and buying habits. We also head to The Ocean, one of the hot new openings in The Pulse, where chef Agustin walks us through five of his fish recipes that we can make at home (even if they don’t look exactly like his perfectly coiffed pieces). We of course have a dose of festivity in our Christmas Countdown pages with gifts, hampers and menus for the festive season. It has definitely been a marvelous year for food in the city and we’re looking forward to the further feasting that awaits in 2016. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Foodies!
Head of Sales & Marketing Joseph Kwok
Recipes
Client Engagement Manager Kathryn Riley Developer Dale Foo
Alicia Walker Editor-in-Chief editor@afoodieworld.com
Junior Digital Editor Cheuk Fung Photographer Sophie Jin
Foodie Panel
Food-loving folk who’ve helped us this month:
Published by Foodie Group, Suite 1401, 14/F, Wah Hing Commercial Building, 283 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, HK www.afoodieworld.com Doug Woodring
Yui Ku
Allen To
If you’d like us to help you to promote your brand, please contact Joseph Kwok at sales@afoodieworld.com, 3791 2565
Co-founder of The Ocean Recovery Alliance tells diners what they need to do to save our seas p.22
Director of CSR & Sustainability for ShangriLa Hotels talks of keeping the fins on the sharks p.25
Conservation Officer (Marine) for WWF-HK discusses the stats on the state of fish p.24
Foodie is published monthly, 12 times a year. The contents of the magazine are fully protected by copyright and nothing may be reprinted without permission. The publisher and editors accept no responsibility in respect to any products, goods or services that may be advertised or referred to in this issue or for any errors, omissions or mistakes in any such advertisements or references. Foodie and the Foodie magazine logo are trademarks of Foodie Group Limited. All rights reserved.
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C onte nt s
Foodie Quote of the Month “You have to be a romantic to invest yourself, your money, and your time in cheese.” - Anthony Bourdain
18 FOOD WAR
Jousting with Churros! Discover which sugary sword takes the title
20 CHEWIN’ THE FAT… with Pololi’s Steph Kudus as she opens her third HK store
22 FISH OUT OF WATER Sustainability and how to get the fish back in our seas
28 CHRISTMAS COUNTDOWN Gifts, hampers and menus for the festive season
34 FOOD NOMAD Celia Hu takes in the flavours of Bangkok
Cover story 40 FISH SUPPERS
38 THE EVENT In his dining column, Yalun Tu aims for homebase on the third date
48 CHINEASY Kelly Yau creates a comforting dish of chicken stew
facebook.com/foodiehk // december 2015
Chef Agustin of The Ocean cooks up his favourite fish dishes for us to replicate at home
03
for starters
This month’s hottest news bites
DAILY BREAD
SHISHA PARTY
Hong Kong’s popular French-style patisserie, confiserie and boulangerie by baker, Gerard Dubois, has opened its fifth location in Hong Kong. Passion has also expanded into hand-made gelatos, a pasta station and new sour dough pizza bases giving reason for gluten-lovers to mission to the latest location.
If you’ve been missing a good dose of Mediterranean dishes and a place to partake in a fruit shisha, you’re in luck with Awtar opening in the heart of SoHo. Offering a mixture of Greek, Lebanese, Turkish and southern European cuisine, Awtar serves up the light and fresh flavours in a fun and casual setting.
Shop 11, Level 4, Langham Place, Mong Kok
23 Staunton Street, Central, 2530 5900
M FOR MILLE CRÊPES The internationally renowned New York boutique cake store Lady M has opened its aromatic doors inside two locations in Hong Kong. Debuting with an original creation for the HK store, the Earl Grey Mille Crêpe will draw oohs and aahs from cake lovers all over town with its 20 layers of paper thin crêpes built on layers of freshly whipped cream. Shop 2096A, 2nd floor, IFC Mall, Central, 2865 1099 Shop OT215K, Level 2, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, 7-27 Canton Road, TST, 2873 2356
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CLEAN CRUNCHING
If crisps are your number one vice, Jax Coco have the pious answer for your snacking habit. Toasted coconut chips are vegan, gluten-free, trans fat free and non GMO with a naturally sweet flavour that contains no cholesterol and is high in fibre. Three flavours to get your taste buds going; sea salt, wasabi and chilli & lime. $14.50 from Citi Store, Green Common and online at store.jaxcoco.com
COCKTAILER’S COMPENDIUM
A new concept from Michelin two-star chef Akrame Benallal brings cold-pressed juices to the aid of digestion throughout Hong Kong. Working together with a nutritionist, Water Juicery supplies 21 varieties that can be purchased as part of cleanse programme or to simply supplement your daily diet. The cleanse is available in one, two and three day packages, featuring ten juices each day along with a simple meal plan to complement the juices. Priced from $58 to $70 per bottle.
A new mobile tool can guide you to the best bars for each and every night you are looking to party. Bar Stars features the lowdown on the leading watering holes and the cocktails within them to plan your perfect night on the town. Informative and detailed listings help you keep track of what’s hot and which bartenders are the best at their craft. Thirsty revellers can search by area as well as bookmark bars they like the look of and want to pop into in the future.
Available online at: www.waterjuicery.com.hk
Give it a try at: www.bar-stars.com
twitter.com/foodiehk // december 2015
MICHELIN JUICING
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the best of the bloggers
Q. Where do you take visiting friends and family to dine? Michelle Ng www.chopstixfix.wordpress.com I like taking visitors to have local food, a particular favourite is having seafood at Bowrington Market. Dim sum at Maxim’s City Hall is always fun or Fu Sing in Wanchai. Then top it all off with a drink or three at Sevva for the views!
Sharon Maloney www.jasmine-ginger.com I like to mix it up to show Hong Kong at its best. I do a combo of cool, funky, urban dining or cocktails, like Honi Honi, Rummin’ Tings, Chachawan, Aqua and Fu Lu Shou. Then I show them the cheap and cheerful local eats like the seafood restaurants in Cheung Chau, or my favourite dai pai dongs and Chinese BBQ restaurants all over. And for the finale, somewhere in more spectacular settings like Limewood and Cococabana, because Hong Kong’s beaches are pretty beautiful at sunset and there’s nothing better than eating al fresco.
Ale Wilkinson www.thedimsumdiaries.com Maxim’s at City Hall for a traditional dim sum experience is a must. I also often take people to Ho Lee Fook, Red Pepper and, if there’s time, either Lamma or Po Toi for a good seafood feed. If budget is no issue then Mott 32 or Duddell’s are also good choices.
Stephanie Ko www.stephs852diary.com For a more refined experience, Tin Lung Heen and Lung King Heen offer delicate Cantonese fare with a sea view. Lin Heung and Sun Hing provide unique old Hong Kong dim sum experiences that all my guests completely adore. Visits to cha chaan tengs, and trips to eat congee, wonton noodles, beef brisket noodles, barbecued meats and local desserts are also mandatory (Tasty and Tsui Wah in Central are perfect for those who are tight on time). Guests who come in winter can even squeeze in a clay pot rice meal!
FEATURED FOODIE All Souped Out Magu first caught our eye as a foodie contributor with her five cha chaan teng must haves and solidified our interest with her entry guide to Chinese soups. Plus, she used souperstar in a sentence and now we’re hooked! Here’s an excerpt: Fish maw aka swim bladder is a secret anti-wrinkle collagen booster. It is well known in Asian culture that fish maw works miracles, as it rejuvenates the skin very quickly. It is also very expensive. People make more money, and safer money (as opposed to other options), smuggling these sun-dried products. It is actually more lucrative than even cocaine as it can go for as much as HKD$1 million per kilo. Now, ginseng is basically gold in the Chinese medicine world, and when combined with garlic and pork bones, it generates a natural immune booster for the body... Read the rest here: www.afoodieworld.com/magu/5311-all-souped-out 06
the social foodie
Tempting Foodie-grams and funny food tweets we giggled over this month @kerihw
-The name’s Bond. James Bond. -I’ve written Bond now. -Oh. Can you change it or is it too late? -When your coffee’s ready they’ll call Bond
@UniqueDude2
COOKING HACK: if you put too much water in your rice, toss a few phones in there
@niks27_shah I was never a photogenic person, because when everyone said cheese I said “WHERE ?”
Brunch @ Cocotte @ceejoyner
@afoodieworld
Get Involved! Join the Foodie community @Funnyoneliners
Celery is 95% water and 100% not pizza.
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afoodieworld
www.afoodieworld.com // december 2015
A sign in the window reads CURED MEATS. Inside, a salami takes his first steps since the accident. A prosciutto learns to forgive.
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foodie club
Hosted By
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foodie club
th
on Nov 14
The Wine & Dine month in Hong Kong is possibly Foodie’s favourite month of the year. The whole city comes together in true food-paradise-fashion to celebration the finer things in life. To further evidence of our keen support for this epicurean event, we took over Food Street at Fashion Walk on November 14th for a jolly, spirit-filled (both kinds) afternoon. Foodies became wine and liquor connoisseurs as they took part in our tastings, interactive workshops and pairing dinners hosted by some of the best in the industry. We were impressed by BestBev’s hand-crafted, organic and artisanal craft beers and the ultrasmooth, award-winning gins and whiskeys from F.E.W Spirits. EAT.it’s Peroni beers were crisp and refreshing and we found out just how much of a steal Winerack’s wines are.
On the night of the event and the night following, we also offered pairing menus from 7 different restaurants that truly set our tongues tingling just by looking at them. Seafood and Iberico pork rib paella from elBorn, Elephant Ground’s famous ice cream, signature chocolate torte from Wildfire, dry-aged rib-eye from Marbling by Mr Steak and Cedele’s beetroot burger were just a few items on the menus that left us salivating.
www.afoodieworld.com // december 2015
Small and intimate sit-down workshops across eight different categories were offered that day, serving to educate us on the appreciation of whiskey, wine, sake, beer, and the list goes on. Whiskey seems to be the hottest thing since sliced bread (we heart wheat) and we jumped on the bandwagon to learn the ins and outs of the whiskey world. At Coast Seafood & Grill the opportunity to learn how to blend our own whiskeys was offered by the kind folk at Lifestyle Federation. Jebsen Fine Wines got us tasting a variety of excellent sakes and Sino Vantage took us on a journey of rum and Prosecco. Much beer geek-ing occurred at COEDO Taproom’s in-depth exploration into the world of craft beer, whose peak came in the form of their house brand, Marihana, from Japan.
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foodie club
Round Up 2015 was a big year for dining in the city and Foodie Club hosted a series of the hottest food happenings around town with some of the coolest foodies in the city (that’s you!). We hosted everything from Secret Suppers, Foodie Tables, kimchi-making and paella-making tutorials to cooking classes, and opening parties, all of which our members have told us they loved, and it was evident as they came back again and again! If you want to get in on all the fun (and food), and you’re not already a member, sign up to Foodie Club (it’s free!) and join us at our next events in 2016. www.afoodieworld.com
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foodie club
www.afoodieworld.com // december 2015
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tried & tasted
New! The Fat Pig 11/F, Food Forum, Times Square, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay, 2577 3444 銅鑼灣勿地臣街1號時代廣場食通天11樓 What is it? This is Tom Aikens’ new digs, and it’s unsurprisingly pork-based. Pig’s head, pig’s ear, pig’s cheek, pig’s trotter, it’s pretty much top-totail piggy. The place: Cool neon signage, an elegant long bar and a gorgeous terrace make this new Times Square resident the chicest place to eat in the building. Servers wear shirts with Kevin on the front, leading one to wonder about commonality in naming these days, until they depart and you see Bacon written across the back; six degrees and all that. It’s these subtle quirks that make the place charming and give the feeling The Fat Pig doesn’t take itself too seriously. The music is a confused mixture; we felt like our ears had whiplash from the rapid change of drum and bass, big band, and jazz, to what sounded like sitcom theme music. The food: We started off with a tin bucket brimming with crunchy pork scratchings ($25) before moving on to the next pail of fried pig’s ear ($108) that were soft, tender and extremely flavourful with a little pot of a deeply satisfying green caper sauce. The pork rillettes ($78) come 12
with plenty of bread and a tangy chutney, while the scotch egg ($38) is a perfecly cooked wonder to behold. Encased in a half-inch of sausage, this warm delight transported us back to Blighty with its flawless flavouring. The pig’s head cake ($61) has a rich and zingy interior sauce and comes served on a bed of watercress. The sandwiches are the real heros of the meal with the roast pork belly ($135) served atop fermented cabbage in a slighty sweet toasted brioche bun alongside our favourite, the barbecue pork ($64) complete with onion ring and coleslaw. The ham hock mac ‘n’ cheese ($149) made a
tried & tasted
delightful accompaniment to all the pork while the pig’s trotter ($108) with caramelised onion came spread thick on toast like a jam, but, to be fair, we had literally pigged out too much at this point to fully appreciate the dish. The dishes are simple but labour intensive with a lot of brining, braising, simmering and elbow grease that shows in the full flavours. The desserts: A somewhat strange collection of sweets that contained odes to the East. A black sesame soup with tapioca base was interesting, if not exceptionally pleasing; the almond jelly was also nice, as was the mango panna cotta, and chocolate brownie with lemon skin. We quite enjoyed the mini doughnut rounds with raspberry jam on the side but were so satisfied by the overall meal we would probably forgo the dessert and focus on the mains instead. The drinks: If you thought the drinks were exempt from that porky touch, you’d be mistaken; there are plans for plenty of maple bacon laced cocktails. We sipped on the distinctive and nectarous “Bacon Red Ale” ($75) custom made for The Fat Pig by the local Moonzen brewery. We also appreciated the unpretentious wine list offering a “Good White, Good Red ($45)” and a “Better White, Better Red or Piggy Rose ($55)”. Those are prices and pronouncements we can get on board with. Plus they offer still or sparling water ($5) free flow and we like that very much. The verdict: The Fat Pig really brings home the bacon. The smell alone will draw you in. AW
Fish School 100 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun, 2361 2966 西環西營盤第三街100號地舖 Changing waters: When one door closes, another opens. We lamented the closure of well-loved French restaurant Lot 10, and we welcomed the return of Chef David Lai in his newest project, Fish School. A collaboration between him and restaurateur Yenn Wong, Fish School centers around locally sustainable, seasonal seafood. Most of the fish are line caught and same day catches, sourced from family-owned fishing boats dotted around Hong Kong’s coastline. With much anticipation, we made a recent visit to the 50-seater restaurant.
www.afoodieworld.com // december 2015
Plenty of fish: Seated at the bar facing the open kitchen, we started the evening with intoxicating glasses of negroni ($120), made right in front of us by a very affable mixologist. As samplers, the house suggestions pointed to the charcoal grilled market fish sampler ($140) and the marinated raw crab and sea urchin rice ($185). We added on the mantis shrimp popcorn ($175) for good measure. The market fish sampler arrived in the form of five tiny slivers of fish, ranging from pomfret, mullet, sea bream, snapper to pompano. A tart and slightly spicy dipping sauce accompanied the tiny fillets, although it wasn’t able to salvage the lacklustre dish. The slices were so small that it was nearly
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tried & tasted
impossible to get a bite of each between our party of two. Perhaps because of this, each slice was rather rubbery and overcooked. Feeling disappointed yet still optimistic, we moved on to the marinated raw crab with sea urchin. This dish, using flower crab, reminded me of something similar at Ronin, although the latter uses fully cooked crab. Fish School’s rendition at first evoked comparisons to Korea’s renowned raw crabs, but the flavours mirrored those of Southeast Asia. However, the delicate sweetness of the crab and sea urchin were overpowered by the immense saltiness of fish sauce, with the only other pronounced accent being chili peppers. We were told to mix together the crab, sea urchin and rice, but even the rice could not dampen the intense saltiness, and we had to gulp copious glasses of water to wash it down. The mantis shrimp popcorn came coated in thick layers of crunchy batter, but the promised cured duck yolk failed to add any umami accents to the batter. Disappointed yet still undeterred, we eagerly awaited the main course, a salt-crusted red bream ($600) served with roasted potato and eggplant sides. Alas, the pricey baked fish did not live up to expectations, and was rather flavourless. It could also have benefited from a few minutes less on the heat. Our rather disconcerting meal concluded with pumpkin ice cream dotted with persimmon and pickled melon ($75), which was the saving grace of the
evening. The creamy pumpkin and tart pickled melon complemented the toasted pumpkin seeds wonderfully. Verdict: At more than $1,600 for two after tips, this was a hefty price tag to pay for a mediocre meal. Despite attentive and personable service, Fish School fizzled like a highly anticipated first date that went south. By the end of the night, I was already deleting its number from my phone. CH
OVO Café Shop 1, Nan Fung Place, 173 Des Voeux Road, Central, Hong Kong, 2527 6077 中環德輔道中173號南豐大廈1樓 The new Ovo Cafe in Central carries the same mentality as it’s older sister store in Wanchai; a passion for sharing a green life with a dedication to healthiness and an eco-lifestyle. Serving fresh vegetarian cuisine all day, from soups and salads to more hearty options like vegan garlic bread and truffle risotto with a tomato concasse. Vibe: Open and airy, and mildly akin to a garden centre, the new Ovo Cafe in Central is attached to the Green Monday movement’s mega-veg store Green Common. Between these two and Maya Cafe which sits on the floor below, three of Hong Kong’s premier plant-based powerhouses have congregated in a central location for the herbivore to explore. Drinks: We like their coffee a lot, which can be made on any number of milks ranging from soy to skim. We were particularly taken with the quinoa latte, which showed off the skill of the
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tried & tasted
barista who was able to perfectly demonstrate a rosette on top of our java. The quinoa milk is mild but sweet, even though there doesn’t appear to be any sugar in the ingredients list (we inspected). The smoothies are less exciting so go for either a coffee or a freshly squeezed juice. Food: It is difficult to understand exactly the direction of the menu at first glance, as it seems to be comprised of both vegan and vegetarian meals. There is definitely no meat, however, so don’t bring old mate ribeye to this restaurant without a thorough briefing. Garden comfort soup with garden taro, okra and mixed veggies tastes somewhat artificial, though we were assured it was made on site. Best go on to the vegan garlic bread with a whole clove of roasted garlic and vegan aoili. The ‘crab’ cakes with pumpkin puree and cucumber served with beetroot sauce are great while the superbowl salad of beetroot and quinoa salad in feta cheese is not overly memorable, though the feta does resemble feta uncannily, aside from a lack of brininess. For the mains, ‘The Spice Entice’, is vegetarian not vegan (and we are happy for this compromise as the paratha is too deliciously flaky to be done without butter), with Indian curry and beef served with chick peas, potato and green beans. Overall: A good place to come when you have vegans in your life who will actually be delighted by the ‘meat alternatives’ as found in the crab cakes and beef curry. KH
New! MyHouse 26/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, 2323 1715 灣仔皇后大道東202號QRE Plaza 26樓 What is it? When we heard of MyHouse, which promised to be a wine bar, music venue and restaurant all at once, we had reservations (metaphorical ones, which then conveniently morphed into physical ones). MyHouse is, however, awesome, and artfully combines three of the great seasonings of life; music, wine and food. Certified sommelier, Alison Christ, who is also an artist, curator and music enthusiast (as well as someone you should probably befriend as we approach the rapture), collaborated with natural wine expert Karim Hadjadj, have created one of the few places in Hong Kong, which has a library of vinyl records to share with guests, and a wine cellar that serves natural wine.
Wine: We’re elated to recognise the growing popularity of natural wine in this city, no doubt
twitter.com/foodiehk // december 2015
Vibe: Music is executed through hosting house DJ’s Arun R and Romi Behl who put the weight back into vinyl. In addition to these talented vinyl-jockeys, there are individual players at tables for solo solace; choose an old school vinyl from the shelf, slip it on the individual turntables at each seat, grab the headphones and enter a new world of solemnity with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine and some nibbles.
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tried & tasted
originally begun by the fine folks at 121 BC and La Cabane (both of whom had a hand in the supply of the happy grape juice that flows at MyHouse). Must try wines include 2013 Morgon – Gamay |Domaine Jean Foillard, Beaujolais – France ($100 per glass), 2014 Orange Wine | Domaine Lucci “Gris Noir” | Adelaide Hills Australia ($130 per glass) and 2014 Le Loop Blanc Rosé | Minervois – France ($250 per bottle). Extremely reasonable and extremely imbible. For those who haven’t yet, we strongly suggest trying orange wine, which although comes across fiercely fermented at first, you come to utterly adore after two sips. Who would’ve thought the breaking down of bacteria and resulting effervescence would be quite so delicious? Food: We didn’t expect to love the food as much as we did as we mistakenly thought the wine/music was going to be MyHouse’s ‘thing’. Executive Chef Peter Birks (formerly of Dining Concepts) does European classics in a modern tapas-ey way, which entices most to share, or at least make suggestive comments about how good their neighbours’ food looks. We love the grilled scamorza wrapped in serrano ham, finished with Pedro Ximenez sherry ($138) and octopus, garlic lemon whipped potato, chili and smoked paprika ($168) which bizarrely takes on a Korean fried chicken glaze type flavour. The salt roasted beetroot and burrata finished with 15year old balsamic ($138) can be skimmed over but the broccoli should not be. The seared 16
florrets with anchovy vinaigrette and chilli flakes ($88) are so umami they’re delightful. Also a hit was the mushroom arancini ($88) and the pizzetta with potato, taleggio and rosemary ($98). Though we did not have enough room to specifically try these ourselves, we have heard outstanding things about the rigatoni with spicy Italian sausage, broccoli, garlic, parmigiano reggiano and fennel pollen ($188) and the porcini rubbed short-rib with aged balsamic ($458) from enough credible sources to recommend them too. Verdict: This is one of the few restaurants we are actually able to bring to mind when people ask ‘where have you eaten recently that’s worth trying?’ If you like music, tasty food that is simple but well executed, unusual and alluring wines plus cool people, you will love MyHouse. KH
tried & tasted
The rest: They have two dressings for their wedge salad, we favoured the subtle blue cheese to dress up the huge half of iceberg lettuce and maple-glazed bacon, but the honey mustard was also a nice topping. The roasted bone marrow is a tiny treat for the taste buds and the market seafood platter teemed with fresh and meaty lobster and oysters. The steamed black mussels came with a moreish white wine and herb sauce that was perfect for sopping up with their bread and beef drippings for a decadent overall dish. The very underutilised (in our opinion) Brussels sprouts were a welcome sight, as was the grilled broccollini that was an ideal accompaniment to the flavour of the steaks. A baked mac ‘n’ cheese, though somewhat superfluous in the presence of duck fat fries, was lovely nonetheless. Although we skipped out before dessert, we were reluctant to leave when we caught sight of the New York cheesecake and carrot cake on the menu.
Steak Frites by The Butchers Club 56 Staunton Street, Central, 2858 9800 中環士丹頓街 56 號地舖 What’s new? A whole new menu full of an array of delicious cuts of steak as well as seafood, various veggies, and sides, and everything you wouldn’t expect at a typical steak frites joint.
The verdict: Regular steak frites eateries are great for when you don’t want to make any choices. Steak Frites by The Butchers Club is the opposite; choice is plentiful, and difficult, because each and every steak is delicious in a different way, making it a much more customised eating experience. With the plethora of sides and salads, it’s also a perfect place to dine with many, and order plenty. AW
The place: Loud and jovial with red moody lighting, comfortable seating and a firm focus on enjoying what you’re eating.
twitter.com/foodiehk // december 2015
The goods: Oh my, where to begin? The inhouse butcher comes ceremoniously into the dining room with his gigantic bowl showcasing the various cuts of beef on offer so you can fully appreciate what you’re in for. The gargantuan proportions and thickness of the 90 day aged porterhouse, the baseball cut roundness of the Black Onyx tenderloin, the smaller prime t-bone and the New York striploin; it’s a carnivore’s heaven. All the steaks are aged at least 30 days and have a flavour that shows the love these butchers put into each cut of meat. The Black Onyx was buttery and tender, the Porterhouse substantial and a true meat-lover’s dream cut, and the sirloin was juicy and flavourful.
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food war
Jousting with Churros EYESCREAM AND CHURROS Shop B1, Tak Man Building, 29 Tak Man Street, Hung Hom Price: 1 large with dip $24/1 large with ice cream $38 The look: One very long attractive loop served in cute cartooned paper makes for great instagram opportunities. You can also get them “eyescreamed” with a sweet coating of your choice. We went for the straightforward sugar and cinnamon, of which there was a consistent covering, and sampled both the chocolate and salted caramel sauces. The taste: We could have just been the victims of a bad batch but this one unfortunately really wasn’t very good. The very dark exterior and undercooked interior suggested perhaps the oil was too hot as when you bit in the texture was akin to mashed potato with an unpleasant flavour to the dough. It definitely needed the sauces, of which they excelled; the salted caramel was especially delicious. The verdict: Although big, inexpensive and offering lots of choices, we did not find this churro to be worth the hike to Hung Hom. Foodie rating:
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ELBORN 58-64 Paterson Street, Causeway Bay Price: $80 The look: Three churros served with a scoop of Mövenpick ice cream, chocolate sauce and huge dollops of whip cream. The taste: A more cohesive churro altogether with a softer exterior dough that wasn’t crunchy but firm and had extremely deep ridges that collected excesses of sugar and cinnamon. The chocolate sauce was thick and a little went a long way. More similar to a doughnut than the others, we really enjoyed the texture and taste. The verdict: A good standard that gives exactly what you’d expect of a churro. Foodie rating:
Not particularly easy to get your hands on, these tasty doughnut-like spikes are a Spanish import that we’d love to see more of. We tracked down four of HK’s options to see which ones had us saying arriba!
BEOSICTE CH
LIMEWOOD
CALI MEX
103/104 The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay
43H Dundas Street, Mongkok
Price: $90
Price: $38
The look: A deep golden colour shimmers
The look: We headed to the Mong Kok branch
over these long sugary spears. In a set of five,
for our tasting after discovering they make them
each has a light dusting of cinnamon and an
fresh in store at this location. Three long sticks
immense amount of sugar crystals. Comes with
with a somewhat erratic spattering of sugar and
accompanying ice cream topped with toasted
cinnamon.
coconut flakes and a pot of caramel sauce. They really are quite lovely looking.
The taste: A choice of caramel or chocolate sauce, we opted for the latter and were pleased
The taste: Quite a crispy exterior with a light
with the sweet complement to the fried pastry.
silky interior that reminds us of the inside of an
Crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside, for
egg waffle. The two textures are very separate
a fast food option, this was a-okay. Good value
and the experience is like a journey from one
for money.
sensation to the next with a shattering crumble leading to a soft downy chew. When dipped in the light sauce, a subtle coating of melted caramel covers the tongue. We would be very happy with this as our dessert at the end of a
The verdict: Worth a trip to repulse bay. Foodie rating:
calories on one of their tacos, but for a sweet fix, this’ll do the trick. Foodie rating: www.afoodieworld.com // december 2015
meal.
The verdict: We’d probably prefer to spend our
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chewin’ the fat
Chewin’ the fat with...
STEPH KUDUS You may already be addicted to the Graham Street store serving up surfer’s sashimi based on Hawaiian flavours. Steph Kudus, the chef behind the shop, has expanded her version of poké out into Sheung Wan, and now Wanchai. Steph tells us of Pololi’s (that’s Hawaiian for hungry) unexpected success and the challenges of owning your own business in HK. What made you decide to open your own place? After moving to Hong Kong, I was missing my staple meal in Hawaii and was shocked that poké was nowhere to be found. I started making poké on weekends and realised that it was a hit amongst my friends and colleagues who were always on the go. Making it for myself proved difficult as I could not get sashimi-grade seafood in chunks at a reasonable price, it was there and then I realised we were missing high quality and tasty poké despite Hong Kong being one of the food capitals of Asia! You’re opening your third shop, was it always the plan to expand to other locations? We did not anticipate how well Hong Kongers have taken to our poké. After seeing how 20
our customers enjoy sitting outside on Graham Street, I was on the look out for something in Wanchai with low traffic so that our customers could enjoy a laid-back atmosphere despite being in Hong Kong, which is typically fast-paced. Swatow Street offers people an opportunity to hang out with their friends whilst enjoying a beer and some poké. Tell us about the ethos behind Pololi? We focus on vibrancy, fresh, healthy, and tasty food on the go within our community. The feeling of community is one of the most important elements in Pololi’s ethos, we want people to think of it as their local food shack where they can swing by for some great food on their way home from work or just rushing in to grab lunch.
Where do you get your fish from? Our fish arrives daily and is mainly from Southeast Asia. We strive to source top sashimi-grade seafood from our suppliers and will not compromise on quality as we need to make sure it is safe for our customers. All the poké that we make today is served today, hence we run out almost every day and encourage our customers to call before dropping by our shops, or to come early. How often do you change your flavours? Our flavours change daily but we try to balance the day’s offering to a good mix of spicy and non spicy, mayo and non-mayo, and ahi or non-ahi. We do keep the traditional spicy everyday, as it is the most popular flavour. I do like to test new flavours out and those will pop up in the shop out of the blue. We’ve played around with scallops, shrimp, cobia, tuna, salmon, tempeh, and even pumpkin! Where do you get your inspiration in the kitchen from? Mainly from visiting the most popular poké shacks around Hawaii when I was in school and visiting family. On some days I would eat poké five to six times a day just to try them all. Our basic flavours are based on the most common flavours I’ve found in Hawaii and
The feeling of community is one of the most important elements in Pololi’s ethos.
added our own spin to them. The fact that poké means “to slice or to cut”, gives me the power to play around with interesting flavours and layers and put forth a well balanced sauce that pairs well with our proteins. What difficulties do you face as an entrepreneur in the city?
What’s been the biggest learning experience for you in owning your own business? Never compromising on product quality, even if people have never tried poké before. Hong Kongers have advanced palates and they know the difference the instant they taste the food. At Pololi, we close when we run out because we want to make sure we are putting the best product forward.
www.afoodieworld.com // december 2015
Finding dynamic and driven people to join our Ohana (“family”). Most people do not see F&B as a long-term career but more of a part-time job. We offer all of our staff a career path that is based on each of their strengths and weaknesses as at Pololi, we want to nurture our staff and support their growth.
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Fish out of water Or more like water out of fish; it’s fast becoming obvious there are not plenty more fish in the sea. Alicia Walker dives into the issue of sustainability in the South China Sea
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fish out of water
November saw the introduction of the Kin Hong “Healthy” Seafood Festival, which seeks to educate the public and F&B industry on how to rejuvenate flailing fish stocks by purchasing and consuming sustainable seafood in the city. The festival was in part organised by The Ocean Recovery Alliance, an organisation focused
facebook.com/foodiehk // december 2015
The South China Sea is home to a rich and diverse fish life that has provided sustenance, as well as livelihoods, to the people of Hong Kong for generations. But a new study reveals that this veritable underwater seafood buffet faces a great and immediate threat from overfishing. The study labelled Boom or Bust, The Future of Fish in the South China Sea, reveals startling statistics finding that catch rates, even in remote locations, are down three to four times what they were 20 years ago, with some down to as low as five per cent compared to what they were in the 1950s. The latest research from the WWF in the Living Blue Planet Report, shows population sizes of over 1,000 types of marine life have fallen by half on average in just 40 years. With Hong Kong reigning near the top of global seafood consumption charts per capita, the choices made by consumers and businesses in this city have a huge impact on fishing practices in the region, as well as worldwide, particularly for products like shark fin and grouper where this city is the trade hub of the world.
on improving our oceans through technology, and initiatives like the Kin Hong festival. Doug Woodring of Ocean Recovery Alliance walked us through the particular problems surrounding Hong Kong’s immense love of dining on creatures from under the sea: “Our seafood footprint (and damage we are doing to the ocean as a result), is one of the worst in the world. For a small city, we have a huge impact and this could be improved by consuming only sustainably sourced products. Estimates show that up to 90 per cent of the large species of fish are overfished, and now we are fishing ‘down the food chain’, meaning the fishing industry is moving to smaller and smaller fish, as the larger ones do not have time or capacity to reproduce given the over-capacity in fishing fleets and technology trying to catch them. On the good side, Hong Kong is a leader now in protecting some of its waters by putting a ban on trawling in all of HK waters in early 2014. Already this is proving to be a big success for the improvement of the ocean and fish stocks here, so it is a model that shows that good management of fisheries can work, if the ocean is just allowed some breathing space to rejuvenate. This is an extremely important case study for the region, and the world, to pay attention to.”
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© Jürgen Freund / WWF
fish out of water
Kite fisherman using a kite and fishing line to catch fish like skipjack tuna. Wakatobi, South Sulawesi, Indonesia. 11 November 2009
Hook, line and sinker Woodring says that farmed fish accounts for over 50 per cent of all the fish we eat on the planet and this can be considered good news for relieving the stress from wildcaught fish, provided the farms use the new sustainable methods being created. Dr. Allen To, Conservation Officer (Marine) of WWF-Hong Kong also believes Hong Kong is making great improvements in their efforts: “Sustainable seafood is getting more traction in the industry. For example, as in 2011, when WWF-HK ran the Sustainable Seafood Week, only nine restaurants participated, but this year, we had 114 restaurants supporting, including a much wider sector in HK such as HK-style teahouses and fast food chains. Nevertheless, sustainable seafood is not the mainstream in the market yet, and more work needs to be done. Farming can reduce our demand on wild species if this is operated in a sustainable manner. There is a farm in Hong Kong, which uses a more sustainable manner to raise live groupers to cater to the great needs for grouper in Hong Kong. This can help reduce our reliance on wild caught individuals, which for many are already overfished or even categorised by the IUCN as Threatened Species.” 24
Gareth Kwok operates two such farms in Hong Kong: Aquacultures Technologies Asia specialises in indoor salt water mariculture, which is the practice of raising fish indoors: “We define ‘sustainable’ as not being harmful to the natural environment and not depleting natural resources, thus, maintaining an ecological balance through practice and process. We currently raise one species of Giant Garoupa, which is a prized fish in local cuisine. Our baby fish are from reputable nurseries in Taiwan. These nurseries have been breeding ocean fish for a very long time and their technical know-how is only second to that of Japan. In addition to healthy fingerlings, we also work very closely with our feed producers to ensure the nutrition value of our fish feed. They are able to tailor their product to suit our desired optimal nutrition levels for our fish. We lab test every batch of feed we buy to ensure that it is to our specification. We provide our fish with the healthiest living environment, one in which it is given ample room to live and exercise, where they are provided nutrient rich foods several times a day. We take great care in raising our fish healthily and humanely.” Gareth also says they still face opposition due to the perception of farmed fish in the city: “Hong Kong residents are extremely refined eaters, they make sure that their seafood is wild, or ‘from the
We take great care in raising our fish healthily and humanely... If the fish is live, does the consumer know how clean the water it swims in?
© Jürgen Freund / WWF
fish out of water
Farmed barramundi cod (Chromileptes altivelis). Buyat Bay, North Sulawesi, Indonesia. 15 October 2009
sea’, before they order at restaurants. However, the condition of the fish, even if from the ocean, does not always mean the quality is at its best. If the fish is live, does the consumer know when it last ate, what it ate or how clean the water it swims in? Many Hong Kongers reject the concept of farmed fish because there is a stigma that farmed doesn’t taste as good as wild caught, which is a gross generalization of farmed fish. This is attributed to poor farming conditions. The greatest challenge we face in Hong Kong is the people’s mindset that farm fish is a lesser product. We’ve done many comparative blind tastings with our product versus others, and
almost always come out on top as the best tasting with the best texture. Over the past decade, we have spent a great deal of blood, sweat, and tears, refining the way in which we raise our fish, and we truly feel our customers can taste the difference. Our farming process has received certifications that mean our product is traceable, from the water quality to the nutrition it is given. Yet another point is our farm’s close proximity to the city. Our fish only need to travel 30-45mins to the city to be on our consumer’s plates, rather than being flown or shipped in from other countries.”
Fisherman holding dorsal fin cut from scalloped hammerhead shark (Sphyrna lewini) caught on longline, Cocos Island, Costa Rica, Pacific Ocean
Yui Ku, Director of CSR & Sustainability, ShangriLa Hotels and Resorts discusses the challenges and benefits to choosing sustainability: “We knew taking shark fin off the menus would represent a substantial amount of revenue for our Chinese restaurants and banqueting business, but we wanted to make a public stand and show our commitment to the sustainable seafood campaign, [which] is a step in the right direction towards biodiversity conservation, and we are excited about the changes the ban
facebook.com/foodiehk // december 2015
© naturepl.com / Jeff Rotman / WWF
Can of worms
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© Michel Gunther / WWF
fish out of water
Raw tuna to be sold for preparation of Sushi and Sashimi, Tsukiji fish market, Tokyo, Japan
of shark fin has brought. There is also growing awareness and acceptance among the younger generation to not serve shark fin at weddings. Overfishing for shark fin has disrupted the balance of the ocean’s ecosystem and resulted in many shark populations being threatened with extinction. Sharks help maintain the health of the ocean’s ecosystems, including seagrass beds and coral reefs; the elimination of sharks can
Consumers can help to improve the ocean ecosystem by actively choosing to purchase sustainably caught and farmed seafood. lead to disastrous effects such as the collapse of fisheries and the loss of coral reefs.” Benjamin So supplies sustainable oysters to consumers and restaurants here in Hong Kong at www.178degrees.com. The oysters hail 26
from New Zealand where the fish supplies are carefully managed to ensure long-term viability of the country’s seafood stocks. Benjamin says sustainable seafood is an issue everyone should participate in: “In general, stewardship of our natural resources is a critical subject. With the world population set to peak at nine billion this century, the planet’s limited capacity to support life must be carefully managed. Seen in this context, food sustainability is one part of the larger question of environmental preservation.” Benjamin also touches on the subject of marine pollution and why New Zealand’s organic oysters are revered for their pristine provenance: “Seafood, like any natural product, is intricately entwined with its habitat. Much as French wines are characteristic of their terroirs, the quality of fish is reflective of their environment. Obviously, if waters are impure, the wildlife that they support will be of suspect safety. This is particularly important, as pollutants become more concentrated as they progress through the food chain.” Off the hook So, armed with this newfound knowledge in hand, what is the minimum that responsible consumers should do to help protect marine life? Benjamin
© Martin Harvey / WWF
fish out of water
A fisherman casts his fishing net on the coast at sunset Gabon
Juveniles Humphead wrasse, Cheilinus undulatus (far left and far right), amongst other live tropical coral reef’s fish kept in water tanks before being sold to customers. Fish market, Hong Kong. China
Dr. To advises diners to seek literature to check for themselves: “WWF-Hong Kong has published a seafood guide, which is freely available online and is also available as a smartphone app. This can help consumers know more about sustainable seafood and have a quick idea of what can be more sustainable (e.g. many farmed oyster, scallop, clams) and what are definitely not sustainable (e.g. Bluefin tuna, humphead wrasse, shark fin). We have also worked with a number of restaurants to feature an ‘Ocean Friendly Menu’ that is available online at: www.wwf.org.hk/seafood/ofm/en/ Doug Woodring says the responsibility essentially lies with all of us, “We want to stress to consumers that they can help to improve the ocean ecosystem by actively choosing to purchase and cook with sustainably caught and farmed seafood here in Hong Kong.They need to ask for sustainable seafood on the menu, even if they know it is not there, or do not see it listed. If they do not ask, the restaurant will not know that consumers are demanding it.” For a list of the Kin Hong Festival’s responsible restaurants serving sustainable seafood, check out Ocean Recovery Alliance’s page www.afoodieworld.com/ users/oceanrecovalliance
facebook.com/foodiehk // december 2015
© Michèle Dépraz / WWF
So says, “As consumers, we have an obligation to make ethical buying decisions. With respect to seafood, this means understanding the impact over-fishing has on future stocks and recognising which fisheries are sustainably managed. Norway, Iceland and New Zealand are leaders in this regard. Some US stocks are correctly managed, but not all. Eating at restaurants is trickier, as there is no mandatory labelling regime in Hong Kong. There are some restaurants whose chefs insist on using sustainable sources (e.g. Café Gray, Fish & Meat, Lily & Bloom, The Ocean). However, if that is not the case, diners should ask the kitchen.”
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promotion
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COUNTING THE DAYS If you’re like us, putting bright red crosses on the calendar in anticipation of the foodlover’s dream holiday of Christmas, this tree of wonder will make the wait a little easier. A delicious advent calendar with a touch of chocolate each day until the 24th of December from La Maison Du Chocolate. These Christmas tree shaped calendars are filled with 24 chocolate surprises and are on sale now from their boutiques for $690. They also have festive wreaths if you prefer to ornament your tree with dark chocolate holly and gold leaf with interlacings of mendiant nuts and chocolate made entirely by hand for $350. Available from La Maison Du Chocolate stores around Hong Kong
CAPRICIOUS CONES French Pastry Chef Nicolas Lambert has painstakingly sculpted Caprice’s magical Bûche de Noël, a limited edition dessert for Christmas that has transformed chocolate and hazelnut into a pinecone forest. This formidable treat takes 48 hours to craft with every element being an edible delight, from the timber supports to the individual cones.
Caprice, 6/F, The Four Seasons, 8 Finance Street, 3196 8888
facebook.com/foodiehk // december 2015
Priced at $1,500, this joyous and showstopping dessert is available for sale at the Festive Desk now, and feeds six to eight people.
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promotion
Look to the stars this Christmas with Eclipse Hospitality Group’s Festive Frenzy If you’re looking to celebrate with a feast this Yule, you’ll find plenty of original options with Eclipse’s selection of holiday menus
GET SOCIAL AT THE SAINT FOR THE HOLIDAYS WITH A BRITISH BANQUET If you’re a stickler for tradition and want a taste of Blighty this season, The Saint gastro bar and social house are serving up a quintessential British supper for your taste buds to savour. The menu offers a four-course meal for $388 from 19 to the 26 December. Guests can warm themselves up with roasted chestnut cream soup with wild mushrooms, and enjoy a warm chicken liver salad for starters. A choice of main course includes the oven-baked turkey breast, yam mash and traditional condiments, seared flank steak with confit portobello & IPA juice and pistachiocrusted halibut fillet. Top it off with rustic
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pumpkin pie with vanilla bean ice cream. Bigger parties (minimum of 25) can celebrate with the Holiday Buffet Dinner Package and enjoy a feast fit for royalty. Mains include IPA beef pie with wild root vegetables, chicken and mushrooms stewed in white wine sauce and roasted pork loin with apple jelly. Those with a sweet tooth can tuck into the dessert station featuring lemon curd bars, coconut chocolate brownies, salted caramel and chocolate crunch and Tiramisu. The Holiday Buffet Dinner is priced at HK$498 with an extra HK$250 for free flow drinks. The Saint, 55 Elgin Street, SoHo, Central, 2522 2646
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FELIZ NAVIDAD AT CARAMBA & COYOTE BAR & GRILL For a Latin American twist to your Noel, relax and unwind with some tasty Mexican treats at Caramba in Discovery Bay and Coyote Bar & Grill in Wanchai. The Fajita Party Menu for $298 per person includes cowboy chicken skewers with chipotle BBQ sauce, quesadilla’s with spicy chorizo and chilli con carne, sizzling fajitas with warm tortilla bread and Ibarra fudge brownie. Those who prefer Margaritas can opt for the Margarita Party Menu with Texas-style mini pulled pork sliders, Tuna and mango ceviche in tartrate and Mexi Cali crab cake for a minimum of $278 per person. The BBQ Party Menu features House-smoked USA BBQ baby back ribs, Wings of Fire and Caesar salad with garlic croutons and parmesan for $308 per person.
PAINT THE TOWN RED AND GREEN AT GRAND CENTRAL Grand Central is starting Christmas early with festive specials including oven-roasted turkey breast with chestnut, cranberry oven-roasted turkey breast, 32oz rib of beef & 1lb steamed king crab legs available between 1 December and 25 December.
Grand Central Steak | Seafood | Crafts R001, 3/F, Civic Square, Elements, TST, 2736 4888
Caramba (Discovery Bay), G08A, BLK A, Discovery Bay Plaza, 2987 2848 Coyote Bar & Grill, 114-120, Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, 2861 2221
twitter.com/foodiehk // december 2015
Grand Central is making this Christmas extra special with a festive cocktail party package [pre-order required] for a minimum of 20 people and 2-hour free flow including beverages such as Fat Rooster Ales, Asahi, house red and white wine, signature cocktails and juices. Upgrade to a bar snack premium upgrade for $1,500 including refillable cheese nachos, Cajun wings and beef sliders or a gourmet canapĂŠ Platinum Upgrade for $3,200 with salmon tartars with sour cream and blinis, Serrano ham, Thai asparagus and truffle oil bites and chocolate brownies with mixed berries.
Each menu can be upgraded for $40 to include wine and beer, $200 to include 2-hour open bar and $688 for Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV. All sets must be ordered 1 week in advance. All menus are for a minimum of 20 people.
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A WINE ODYSSEY For vino aficinados, or those that want an introduction to the world of wine, Berry Bros. & Rudd have released Exploring & Tasting Wine: A wine course with digression. With a foreword from the beloved British award-winning actress Emma Thompson and stunning photography by Jason Lowe, this 240-page book takes the reader on a journey through the vineyard using graphics to explain the scents, tastes and balances in each of the wines you try. Available from Berry Bros. & Rudd, 2305-06, 23/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, 3408 9662 for $425 and can be delivered direct to your door.
NORDIC NOEL
GLUG, GLUG, KRUG
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Renowned Champagne House Krug have unveiled their ultimate holiday gift, The Sharing Set, a refined and contemporary set that invites Krug lovers to share a glass of Krug Grande Cuvée. For a perfect tasting experience, the Sharing Set includes two specially designed “Joseph” crystal glasses by Riedel, named after the visionary founder of the House, Joseph Krug.
For a hamper your friends and family will appreciate, FINDS have prepared beautiful products from Santa’s homeland. Nestled in rustic Swedish boxes are treats such as Lingonberry Crisp Bread, Cold Smoked Wild Boar Sausages, Swedish Honey, Lingonberry Mustard, Cloudberry Jam. Beyond the edible items, is the Dalecarlian Horse, Finnish Stone Shot Glasses and Table Cloth from GreenGate, the Danish design company. Packed with special drinks to suit every palate, the hamper has Lingonberry Juice for the little ones, Swedish Punch for the ladies and Apple Mulled Wine or Svensk Rok Mackmyra Whisky for the gents. Hampers start from $1,488 with four days advance order required.
The Sharing Set is available from Watson’s Wines around Hong Kong
FINDS, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, TST, 2522 9318
www.afoodieworld.com // december 2015
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the food nomad
The Food Nomad’s Guide to 24-Hours in Bangkok Our Editor-at-Large, Celia Hu, recently was whisked away to Bangkok for an unforgettable evening of food and pageantry at the Grand Hyatt Erawan. What comes to mind when you hear the name “Bangkok”? Do images flood in of wild nights painting the town red, or is it a historic stroll through glimmering golden palaces? Or, perhaps it’s a tantalizing journey for the senses through one of Bangkok’s chaotic, bustling markets? Whatever the taste, there’s something for everyone in this city. The most populous city in Thailand and a major transport hub, this bustling metropolis of eight million never ceases to amaze. Although home to world-class restaurants, some of the most satisfying eating experiences can be found in humble street stalls. Even if you’ve only got a few hours in the city, there’s still plenty to see and do, so join us as we race through the pulsating heart of Bangkok.
Check-in: 12noon at The Grand Hyatt Erawan When time is of the essence, staying central is key. The Grand Hyatt Erawan, situated in the heart of Bangkok’s busy downtown, is the perfect retreat from where to launch all your adventures. The exquisite five-star hotel is minutes away from the revered Erawan Shrine and major shopping centers such as Central World, Gaysorn Plaza and Siam Paragon. 494 Rajdamri Road, +66 (0)2 254 1234
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CC BY 2.0, Wikipedia, Grand Palace
the food nomad
12:30noon (Travel time: 15 minutes)
2:00pm (Travel time: 20 minutes)
Wave down a tuktuk and head to Silom Road for some powerfully spicy Isaan food. Dishes of this northeastern region of Thailand are characterized by fiery chillies and strong fish sauce, all paired with sticky rice. Grilled chicken (gai yang), papaya salad (som tam), and larb moo are just a few of the must-try Isaan delicacies.
Get blinded by all that gold at the Grand Palace. Comprised of several opulent courts, the palace has been the official residence of Siamese kings since 1782, although the current monarch resides at Chitralada Palace.
6:00pm (Travel time: 35 minutes)
4:00pm (Travel time: 15 minutes)
Back track via the Chao Phraya Express boat and SkyTrain to some shopping hotspots. Platinum Fashion Mall (Ratchathewi) is a mega center full of local Thai designers and unique trinkets that are easy on the wallet, while EmQuartier is a glittery prism of luxurious international labels.
Hungry again? Head across the river to Wang Lang Market on the Chao Phraya Express (watch for the N10 stop). There’s plenty of southern-style curries to be found here, plus delicious desserts such as grilled bananas and coconut griddle cakes (kanom krok).
Tip: Bangkok traffic is horrendous, so cut the wait and take the SkyTrain to Saphan Taksin station, then hop on a Chao Phraya Express boat and get off at the Grand Palace station.
www.afoodieworld.com // december 2015
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food nomad
> 8:00pm (Travel time: 7 minutes)
Midnight (Travel time: 15 minutes)
Take the SkyTrain to nearby Kempinski Hotel for a truly memorable dinner at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. Created by Henrik Yde Andersen, who divides his time between Sra Bua and his Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin restaurant in Copenhagen, the best way to describe the menu is “Thai cuisine reinvented”. The tasting menu begins with a playful rendition of 11 Thai “street foods”, followed by classics such as tom yum and red curry, but like nothing you’ve ever seen or tasted before. Siam Kempinski Bangkok, Rama 1 Road 991/9, +66 (0)2 162 9000
If hidden speakeasies tickle your fancy, then Maggie Choo’s will definitely be your cup of tea - or cocktail. Located in the basement of Novotel hotel, patrons walk through what looks like a dai pai dong noodle bar before the curtains part to reveal a plush cavernous lounge. Originally a 1947 East India Company Bank underground vault, the space still preserved the original bricks and steel bars, with the addition of numerous swings dotted around the “bank teller” bar. Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom Hotel, 320 Silom Road, +66 (0)2 635 6055
4 HRS left!
> 7:00am
8:00am (Travel time: 20 minutes)
>
Grab an authentic Thai breakfast of khao neow sang kaya at the morning market at Silom Soi 20. The black sticky rice comes topped with Thai custard and drizzled in coconut milk. Wrap that all in a banana leaf and you’ve got not only a delicious but portable breakfast!
Start your day with relaxing yoga or pilates beside the pool at Grand Hyatt Erawan, just one of the many fitness classes offered throughout the day.
> 9:00am (Travel time: 20 minutes)
11:00am (Travel time: 5 minutes)
Head back to the hotel and fully rejuvenate after an action-packed 24 hours at Grand Hyatt Erawan’s i.sawan spa. We love the signature “essence of i.sawan” massage at the private spa villa, an unique blend of Swedish aromatherapy and Thai massage techniques using a fragrant blend of lemongrass, cypress and plai. We wanted to stay there forever!
Leave your bags (and new shopping finds) at concierge, and head for one last tango with Bangkok’s gastronomy scene. Hail down a cab and head to White Flower Factory, located on the 4th floor of nearby Siam Square One for some incredible Thai favourites as well as scrumptious desserts. Although you may be heading to the airport, we’re sure you’ll be enticed to make a speedy return soon!!!
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food nomad
#LivingGrand at the Grand Hyatt Grand Hyatt have rolled out a series of “LivingGrand” events throughout the AsiaPacific region to showcase the hotel group’s bold and dramatic event planning capabilities as well as highlight its award-winning culinary creativity.
The evening commenced with cocktails at the Grand Hyatt’s very unique interactive event space called “The Campus”, where General Manager Gordon Fuller promised “a journey through Thailand without ever leaving the hotel”. The polite banter was interrupted by the roar of a motorcycle meandering through the crowd. Intrigued, and full of excitement, the small group of international guests followed the motorist through parted curtains and stepped into an authentic Tha Sala Southern Thai market. The glitzy five-star Grand Hyatt was transformed into a local wet market, complete with street vendors hawking live seafood, fresh vegetables and coconuts! Bare lightbulbs and street sounds further enhanced the authenticity of the market, and the floor was even covered in dirt and wood planks! Actors wove through the market as pedestrian shoppers, and we even witnessed a few haggling matches!
Once seated, masked dancers from the hillside of Royal Chiang Mai revelled the crowd with their intricate, precise movements. Dinner was a decadent affair full of royal Thai delicacies served in beautiful fruit carvings. The highlight of the menu was the perfectly steamed Brittany lobster khao soi, a specialty curry of the northern Thai region. The very memorable gala dinner concluded with a dessert wonderland, with various stalls serving up classics such as Thai milk tea, fresh fruits, grilled bananas and mango sticky rice, but with a modern twist of salted caramel nitrogen ice cream. All this, to the beat of Chiang Mai’s iconic drummers. Truly a gastronomic journey through Thailand, all within the luxuries of a five-star hotel.
Upcoming #LivingGrand events will be held this November in Melbourne, and later this December in Seoul. A similar celebration is planned for early 2016 following the renovation of Hong Kong’s Grand Hyatt.
facebook.com/foodiehk // december 2015
Escorted by personal butlers, the guests were then ushered onto the massive balcony overlooking the hotel lobby, and were greeted by a night market characteristic of Central Thailand. Noodle vendors jostled alongside grilled skewer hawkers and sugarcane juicery, with a handful of scrumptious Thai dessert vendors thrown in between. Guests stopped at each vendor and gorged to their hearts contentment. The excited chatter halted as big band music began to play in the hotel lobby, and to everyone’s surprise, the “hotel guests” seated in
the lobby each pulled out an instrument and joined in the band. The unexpected chorus was joined by glittery Thai dancers, who twirled in a sea of gold. A honking street vendor cart led guests to a grand staircase made even more beautiful by a hostess adorned completely in orchids. As we entered the lavishly decorated dining room, white-gloved butlers filed out in two rolls in perfect unison.
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The Event
Third Date
Yes, he’s navigated his way through the first and second dates with his choice of stellar dining spots, and now it’s the all-important third date. Yalun Tu tries to seal the deal at Quest by Que
Ah, the magical third date. You’ve charmed your new flame at your casual tapas joint of choice and had some fun - and lots of rosé - at a finer, but still casual eatery. Now, you’re almost at the finish line, be it a relationship, wanton groping, or a thanks-but-no-thanks cheek kiss. In other words, it’s decision time as to where this is going to go. It’s time to put your best foot forward. For this, we recommend Quest by Que, the six-month-old second restaurant of chef Que Ving Dang, a Vietnamese New Yorker who’s also really good at Brazilian jiu-jitsu. But who cares about what he does outside the restaurant! You want to know about the space, the food, and why you should put your blind trust in us for this ever-so-important date. Well, okay, we’ll tell you: The space: Quest by Que (I’m going call it QQ, alright?) bills itself as “edgy sophistication with a sleek, monochromatic look.” Translation: it’s sexy and intimate, but not formal. Calm, quiet, and boasting a nice view, it’s the type of place where you stare at your date and say, “What a great night. I’m starting to really, really, really, really really, really like you.” 38
The drink: normally we go right to the food but we must recommend the whisky sour here. It’s a nice aperitif that will leave you both satisfied and wanting more, which is how you’d hope to end the night. The food: It’s always a set menu at QQ, which takes the pressure off ordering. Here’s what we had: buttery and cool shrimp with a sauce of crab and lemongrass consommé that gave it a soft,
Quest by Que 28/F, 239 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, 2554 0888
www.afoodieworld.com // december 2015
refreshing finish. It tastes the way I feel when I say, zing! A bangin’ dish. I’m a big toro guy and Que torched the toro right into it. Oddly enough, though, the highlight of this dish was the crab & pork stuffing. It was a substantial, non-oily version of minced meat. I could have eaten a dish of it myself. The banh mi was made up of smoked Iberico pork belly, homemade pork floss, pickled green radish, and Sriracha mayo. It was an open-faced sandwich instead of handheld. I loved the pork floss and the pork belly, though the bread underneath was a bit too crunchy. The mayo was mayoriffic (I’ve been dying to use that word). I also noticed that my date was leaning in a bit closer after this (nice). In true Que style, the high-end had blended with the “comfort food” aspect and a healthy, relaxed food glow washed over us. This was the best version of something you would have eaten growing up, with chicken, daikon and bean sprouts. Que told us that it was inspired by his mother’s post-Thanksgiving leftover stews she served. Hearing that, I made a mental note to invite myself to his house for Thanksgiving. Unagi is yummy and Que’s was no exception. I thought the eel was a bit sweet, though the green apple and mint coleslaw, however, provided a nice contrast. The best thing in the restaurant is also the best short-rib we’ve had
in Hong Kong. Ever. This is a take one bite, look at your date, and exchange a “see, THIS is why I took you here” type of nod. The short-ribs are cooked for a day, and are super soft, warm, and melt-inyour-mouth sweet. There’s spring onion potato purée and onions that provide a nice base, but it’s all about the ribs. Yamamomo is a berry that can only be served for one month in Hong Kong. It was nice and --- OMG, I’m still thinking about those ribs. The final piece was a good way to end a date (I mean, the dinner portion of it, you salty dog). A chocolate cake with the chocolate lava in the centre was surrounded by pandan and coconut ice cream, and salted coconut caramel, all of which were delicious. It’s decadent and a bit naughty – not hackers release Ashley Madison profiles naughty- but naughty. Summary: The service is good, the whisky sour is good, the food is great. If you play your cards right, you’re going to leave here with a win. What I’m saying is that if you suck, no amount of food is going to make this work. But if you’re capable, you’ll have a dinner, and a night, to remember.
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recipes
FISH SUPPERS Chef Agustin Balbi of The Ocean creates a symphony of flavours from under the sea
photography by Sophie Jin of www.todaytomorrowphotography.com
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recipes
“All recipes are just a guideline and you are the one to add the soul to it. Feel confident and cook with love and I am sure everything will be very tasty. Don’t worry too much about timing and grams, just follow your tastes and senses. Most importantly, cook with freedom, confidence and most importantly have fun!” - Executive Chef of The Ocean, Agustin Balbi BURRATA WITH TOMATOES
Serves: 2 Prep time: 30 mins
Optional •
Add some crackers or croutons to add crunch to the dish.
facebook.com/foodiehk // december 2015
Ingredients: • 1 ball Burrata • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil • 3-4 tomatoes, of different kinds • 2 raspberries • 2 blackberries • 4 shrimp • a few black olives • Juice of 1 yuzu or lemon • a bunch basil, finely sliced
Method: 1. Cut the burrata into 4 pieces and place in a bowl, add salt, pepper and olive oil to marinate. 2. Cut the tomatoes, raspberries and black berries into quarters. 3. Cook the shrimps in boiling water for a minute and a half and immediately pass to a bowl of ice water. Peel and cut into pieces. 4. Dry the black olives in the microwave using paper towels, 5 minutes will be enough, be sure to take out the seed, then dice finely. 5. Cut the basil into thin pieces. 6. Place the burrata into a bow, add the tomatoes and berries, yuzu juice and the dry olives. Season with salt and pepper to taste and finish with basil.
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recipes
TUNA TARTARE WITH CUCUMBER AND APPLE Serves: 2 Prep time: 20 mins
Ingredients: • 100g raw tuna • Small bunch chives, finely chopped • ½ red chilli, de-seeded and finely sliced • Thumb-sized piece ginger, finely sliced • 1 tsp red miso paste • ½ tbsp soy sauce • 1 cucumber • ½ green apple • Juice of 1 lemon • Juice of 1 lime • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard • 1 tbsp crème fraiche • A few sprigs of dill • Red sorrel, to garnish (optional) Method: 1. Dice the tuna into small pieces and place in a bowl with chives, chilli, ginger, red miso paste and soy sauce. Let the mixture marinate in the fridge for a few minutes while you prepare the vegetables. 2. Cut the cucumber into thin slices. You can use a mandolin or carefully slice by hand into very thin slices. 3. Put a pot of water on to boil and get a bowl of ice water ready. Blanch the cucumber slices in boiling water for 3 seconds and immediately submerge in ice water. Once cooled, drain cucumber on some paper towels. 4. Slice the apple into very small pieces and mix in half with the tartare. Adjust seasoning with a little lemon and lime juice. Add salt and pepper according to taste. 5. Serve the tartare with the rolled up cucumber slices and add drops of Dijon mustard and crème fraiche. Garnish with dill and sorrel leaves.
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Tuna Tartare with Cucumber and Apple 43
recipes
SMOKED RED SNAPPER AND CHANTERELLE MUSHROOM SALAD Serves: 2 Prep time: 30 mins
Ingredients: • 4 pearl onions • Knob butter • 3-4 chanterelle mushrooms, sliced • 2 tbsp vinegar (your favorite kind) • 4 tbsp olive oil • 1 tsp honey • 1 fillet pre-sliced and pre-smoked red snapper, or salmon or trout will also do nicely • frisse lettuce • 1 radish, finely sliced • Half green apple, finely sliced • 1 lemon • 1 tbsp mayonnaise Method: 1. Boil the pearl onions for 5 minutes until soft and separate the layers. 2. Pan-fry the mushrooms in a little butter until golden brown. 3. Mix the vinegar, olive oil and honey in a bowl and whisk well until have a smooth vinaigrette dressing. Season to taste. 4. Place all the ingredients together into a deep plate, curl fish into rosebud shapes. 5. Finish with the vinaigrette and lemon juice and mayonnaise on top.
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recipes
Serves: 2 Prep time: 45 mins Cooking time: 8 mins
Ingredients: • 2 fillets turbot • 1 head cauliflower • 2 baby courgettes • 4 tbsp butter • 1 cup white wine • 3 sprigs thyme • 2 cloves garlic • 1 shallot • 1 sheet nori (seaweed) Method: 1. Dry the turbot fillets and reserve in the fridge. 2. From the cauliflower separate 6 nice little heads, peel half the tops to achieve almost a
3.
4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
Optional •
Use salicornia to garnish and add a deep oceanic flavour.
facebook.com/foodiehk // december 2015
powder and with the rest cook in boiling water until soft. Blend the cooked cauliflower until very smooth, add 1 tablespoon of butter, little by little. Cut the heads of cauliflower in half and sear them on their flat part, finish them in the oven. Place the white wine, thyme, garlic, shallot and let it simmer until reduced by half. Pass through a sieve and add the remaining 3 tablespoons butter a little at a time, whisking well until you have a smooth sauce. Chop the nori and add it to the butter sauce at the last minute. Cook the fish fillets on each side for 3 minutes. Assemble dish and serve the sauce table side.
TURBOT AND NORI BUTTER SAUCE
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PAN SEARED SCALLOPS WITH CORN TEXTURES Serves: 2 Prep time: 45 mins Cooking time: 4 mins
Ingredients: • 6 scallops • Kernels of 3 ears of corn • 1 tbsp butter • 1 teaspoon miso • ½ piece fennel • ½ piece orange • a handful walnuts • 2 tbsp vegetable oil • 6 pieces baby corn 46
Method: 1. Carefully de-shell the scallops. 2. Fry the corn kernels with butter and only a little water on low heat until very soft. Purée half of the corn in a blender. Add the miso paste and season to taste, blend until smooth. 3. Slice the fennel very finely, separate the orange segments and cut each in half. Mix it in a bowl with the fennel. 4. Roast the walnuts in the oven for 6 minutes. 5. Fry the baby corn until golden brown. 6. In a frying pan, and with a help of vegetable oil, cook the scallops 2 minutes per side and let rest. 7. Place all the ingredients together to form the plate.
this month
on afoodieworld.com
What’s coming up... As well as our feature here in the magazine, on afoodieworld.com we also delve in the subject of sustainable seafood with several articles relating to the issue and what we can do to contribute to a healthy ocean environment. We also checked out the best steakhouses in town, as well as new coffee shops and juiceries, which don’t seem to be able to stop multiplying in this city. In the community, we have the best soufflés as well as some Indian recipe blogs listed by contributing writers. We also visited two ends of the eating spectrum by learning to make vegan mayo and then to how to dress a cheese plate. It’s never boring on afoodieworld.com!
Next Month in Foodie
Subscribe and never miss an issue again www.afoodieworld.com/subscribe
facebook.com/foodiehk // december 2015
For the month eternally dedicated to self-betterment, we are sinking our teeth into the fascinating subject of good guts. We’re talking healthy bacteria, the foods that promote it, and the doctors that study it. We’ve also sought assistance for our recipes to learn how to make our own fermented foods at home to encourage great digestion, and hopefully get us all a good, healthy January glow in our post-Christmas pallors. This is an issue you, and your guts, won’t want to miss!
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chineasy food
Foodie’s kitchen scientist Kelly Yau experiments with recipes in her tiny Hong Kong kitchen HOMELY CHICKEN, AUBERGINE AND GREEN BEAN STEW Serves: 4 Prep time: 15 mins Cooking time: 40-50 mins Ingredients: •
1
2
1 whole chicken, jointed and cut into 8 pieces
•
2 tbsp oyster sauce
•
3 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
•
1 onion
•
2 bay leaves
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4-6 cloves garlic
•
2 chillies (optional)
•
3-4 tbsp rice wine
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1 bunch green beans, 3 inch pieces
•
4 squares fermented tofu (腐乳)
•
•
1 tsp dark soy sauce
1 large or several small aubergines, sliced into 1 inch pieces
•
2 tbsp mirin
•
•
1 tbsp sugar
Chopped coriander and spring onion to finish (optional)
Method: 1.
2.
3 3. 4.
4
In a large casserole dish, brown the chicken (I did it in 2 batches). Fry the onions gently and when it is golden, add the garlic and deglaze the pot with the rice wine. Mash up the fermented tofu with a spoon and add with the chicken back into the pot with the soy, mirin, sugar, oyster sauce with enough water to barely cover the chicken. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves and chillies (if using) to the pot and simmer on low/medium heat with the lid on for 25 minutes until chicken is tender. Add the green beans and aubergines and cook until vegetables are tender, around 5-7 minutes. Serve with coriander and spring onion.
KELLY’S TIP: • You can use chicken thighs instead of using a whole chicken or duck, but double up the cooking time. • Use any vegetables you like: pumpkin, mushrooms, peppers, carrots, spinach are good additions too. To see more of Kelly’s fun food experiments, check out bit.ly/KellyYau
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+v 8 5 2 2 5 6 5 6 7 8 8 o r r e s e r vat i o n s @ f i s h a n d m e at . h K 2/fl, 32 Wyndham Mansion (opposite the FCC & Fringe Club) | www.fishandmeat.hk
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