Blue Butcher’s Danny chaney Our readers’ favourite chef
the foodie forks awards Our readers have spoken! check out all your favourite places to dine www.afoodieworld.com
2013
issue 46 // may 2013
intro
Foodie [ 'fu:di/ ] A food enthusiast who frequently carries their own cutlery on their person, in case any unexpected dining opportunities may arise.
foodie panel Food-loving folk who've helped us this month: Curtis Stone The Aussie celeb chef confabulates on making gourmet in minutes p10 Danny Chaney Our readers’ favourite chef
the foodie forks When we asked where you foodies love to dine here in Hong Kong, we already knew we were going to love most of your choices, but we were so pleased by the volume of votes and the number of surprise eateries that cropped up in a "I forgot how much I love that place!" kind of way. Last year, we received great feedback from many of you that our awards' issue had become a go-to guide for the best places to eat out around the city, and we very much hope this will again be the case this year. With the phenomenal selection of eateries (starting on p22), we are pretty sure you won’t be disappointed. From fine-dining restaurants and trendy new nosheries to hole-in-the-wall dai pai dongs and line-around-the-block cha chaan tengs, The Foodie Forks is the people’s guide to where to eat on the Hong Kong streets. Grab your forks and get ready to dig in and dine out!
poses in his restaurant p22
after
n oo n tea p4 0
Luis Porras
Alicia Walker, Editor. editor@afoodieworld.com
Our in-house chef whips up delights for afternoon tea p40 Kelly Yau Our foodie experimenter gives us her best ravioli recipe – made from dumpling wrappers! p48
Publisher simon squibb. Editor alicia Walker. Deputy Editor stephanie Pliakas. Creative Director Helen griffiths. Designer Miho Yawata. Photographer Josephine Rozman. Culinary Director Luis Porras. Online Editor grace entry. Contributors Celia Hu, Kelly Yau, Joyce Yip. Business Manager elle Bradstock. Marketing & Club Manager aliya Narielwalla. Published by Foodie group, 3/F, Chao’s Building, 143–145 Bonham strand, sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Printed by Teams Printing Co, Ltd www.afoodieworld.com if you'd like us to help you to promote your brand, contact us at info@afoodieworld.com, 2721 2787.
View Street p20
Foodie is published monthly, 12 times a year. The contents of the magazine are fully protected by copyright and nothing may be reprinted without permission. The publisher and editors accept no responsibility in respect to any products, goods or services that may be advertised or referred to in this issue or for any errors, omissions or mistakes in any such advertisements or references. Foodie and the Foodie magazine logo are trademarks of Foodie Group Limited. All rights reserved.
d The Foo N omad p36
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www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
Love food? Join the Foodie community!
01
contents
18
Contents
Food War Fruit Danishes! Who does this sweet treat the very best?
20
Street View The prized foodie gems of Causeway Bay's Hysan Place
36
The Food nomad Celia Hu dishes the dirt on classic eats in cultural Beijing
22
cover story The Foodie Forks awards Check out where you guys voted as your fave eateries in the Hong Kong dining scene
Funny food awards
40
afternoon Tea You’ll be dying to invite your friends over so you can whip up these small wonders
The Salt Lick Award is a shaming award given to Canadian manufacturers of foods that are considered excessively high in sodium. The last award winner was a toddler food that had the equivalent salt content of two medium orders of McDonald’s fries.
facebook.com/foodiehk // may 2013
You don’t want to win this one...
among the many food awards given out every year, a few of the more unusual (and specific) awards given include The sammies, which are The British sandwich industry awards, recognising the excellence achieved between two slices of bread, and the British Curry awards, which celebrates the unsung heroes of the curry business and has actually become known as the "oscars" of the industry.
03
for starters
for starters Here's plenty of food news for the rainy days of May
cinco de Mayo The Mexican fiesta is coming to town! Head over to the Renaissance Harbour View for a taste of the classic dishes of the region, including fajitas, tacos and ceviche, along with home-made margaritas and tequila. The dinner buffet at Café Renaissance starts from 6 May and is priced at $428 per person. If you fancy visiting the sweet side of Mexico, head to The Lounge for the Cinco De Mayo Afternoon Tea set with delicacies such as churros (fried dough sticks), arroz con leche (vanilla rice pudding) and chicken quesadillas for $128 each. Arriba! Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai 2584 6970
Beef on the bone Steik World Meats is the first restaurant in the city to receive a shipment of the previously banned-for-importation US beef on the bone. After a decade-long wait for Hong Kong to lift the restriction, beef on the bone has been flown in from Nebraska and the dry-aging process has begun. The sought-after beef is now awaiting eager mouths for tasting. Available from $998. Shop 14, Level 3, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, TST 2530 0011
cOW, Pig, cHickEn COW PIG CHICKEN is the soon-to-be-released cookbook of Jason Black, the quirky yet talented chef behind Shore Steak, ever-popular The Salted Pig and his soon-to-be-built new venture, Mama Creole's. If you've been to these restaurants and have fallen in love with a particular dish, the chances are it’ll be in the book, so you can try your hand at recreating it in the comfort of your home – no matter the kitchen size! The ingredients are available in Hong Kong; the recipes are easy to follow and are guaranteed to wow your guests, except perhaps if you choose to befriend a bunch of vegetarians! Available in June in Hong Kong's best bookshops. 04
for starters
The Picasso of Pastries
Wicked WikiCells
Pierre Hermé Paris will bring its collection of macarons and chocolates to IFC this month. Monsieur Hermé is often described as the "Dior of desserts" for his inspired creations that include imagine (matcha green tea and black sesame), infiniment chocolat porcelana (pure-origin Venezuelan dark chocolate), infiniment rose (rose and rose petals) and céleste (passion fruit, rhubarb and strawberry). The store will be designed by retail luminary Masamichi Katayama, founder of Wonderwall, a Tokyo design firm behind some of the world’s most celebrated retail spaces. IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central
This sounds almost too good to be true, but David Edwards, a French-American Harvard University professor, has developed eco-friendly, edible foodand-drink packaging called WikiCells – and he hopes that, someday, members of the public will be able to create their own edible packaging at home using special machines. The packaging, which is like a soft skin or shell, is made of all-natural food particles and other materials. Two of the coolest examples are WikiCell Coffee, enclosed within a chocolate outer skin, and WikiCell Yoghurt – Greek-yoghurt grapes covered by a raspberry, vanilla or mint pea skin. The first WikiBar is scheduled to open later this year in Paris. www.wikicells.com
Organic Cooking
The end of the weekend is the perfect time for a roast with all the trimmings. Where to go for such an eating extravaganza but The Lounge at the Four Seasons Hotel, as they’ve just introduced a three-course menu with New South Wales Black Angus beef striploin, heirloom carrots, confit gravy and gratin dauphinois. A warm toffee pudding with blackcurrant sorbet will finish you off, putting the cherry on top of your week. Starting from $480. The Lounge, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance Street, Central 3196 8888
In collaboration with Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution, The Food and Wine Academy will be welcoming British Chef Anthony Fletcher, head chef at The Pawn, on 11 May from noon until 3pm to show athome chefs how to cook the latest trends in organic cooking. If you fancy learning how to whip up two healthy dishes using the freshest ingredients from Homegrown Foods, ring the number below to sign up. $475 per person. The Western Food Lab, School of Hotel and Tourism Management, 7 Science Museum Road, TST East 3400 2180
www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
Sunday Roast
05
the best of the bloggers
Where is your favourite place to dine out with a big group? Ale Wilkinson www.thedimsumdiaries.com For a big group, I always love a good private kitchen. I have recently been very impressed by Eclectic, KimChi and Chef Studio by Eddy. Comilonas will always remain one of my favourite places, although this one requires serious forward planning, as it’s eternally booked out! Jennie Cranham www.scarletscorchdroppers.com
Under the Bridge Spi cy
Crab
Skip dinner and opt for brunch; it’s far more sociable. Top Deck at Jumbo and the Laguna Palace dim sum restaurant are my permanent favourites. If it has to be dinner, I love Delhi Club in Chungking Mansion; the guys there find space for even the most impromptu group dinners.
Jenny Kieran www.hklovebites.com
Chinese food is always better enjoyed when you are with a big group of friends, and I love Yuet Wah Hui on Lockhart Road (their fried tofu and typhoon shelter crab are to die for) or Sheung Kee in the Happy Valley Cooked Food Market for something cheap and cheerful.
Lloyd Jennings www.lloydjennings.com
My favourite restaurant to take friends or family would have to be Sahara in SoHo. The Middle Eastern food is delicious, and the staff are great at creating a lively atmosphere. When you have finished your meal, it's great fun trying the different cocktails and shisha they have available.
Michelle Ng www.chopstixfix.wordpress.com
When the weather is a little cooler, my friends and I love going to Megan’s Kitchen for hotpot. The round tables are great for a group, and everyone can get stuck in. We also enjoy going to Under the Bridge Spicy Crab and FoFo by el Willy.
Sharon Maloney www.jasmineandginger.blogspot.com If my friends and I are going out, we love places that have food to share, so Indian, tapas and Middle Eastern are always good. I love Ganga's, Olive and Sahara in Central and SoHo. They are great for smallish groups. It also depends if you add children to the mix too. Pizza Express and Dan Ryan's are good for kids and have easy kiddie menus. Stephanie Ko www.stephs852diary.com I usually try to book private kitchens when I eat out with a group of friends. Even though some of them may take a deposit, private kitchens are fantastic for an intimate, laid-back experience, and a lot of them have a BYOB policy, which ensures flowing alcohol all night! My favourite free-corkage private kitchens include Magnolia and Le Marron, which are affordable yet very decent! 06
sweet tweets
Foodie Reader Recipe 5-minute Mango Tofu "Cheesecake" Stephanie Ko shares a sweet treat
Sweet Tweets Funny food talk on Twitter we giggled over this month
@Christin Hensley
Sometimes when I'm eating an orange, it tastes funny, and then I realize that it's a grapefruit. @Kumail Nanjiani
Serves 6 Prep time: 5 minutes Refrigeration time: 2 hours Ingredients: + 275g (firm) packaged tofu + 200g mango yoghurt + 10g caster sugar + 1 tbsp powdered gelatin + 60ml hot water + 1 ready-made 9-inch pie crust + 1 mango, diced (optional) Method: 1 Place the tofu and yoghurt in a food processor and blend until smooth. 2 Dissolve the powdered gelatin and sugar in hot water and immediately stir into the tofu mixture. 3 Pour the tofu mixture over the ready-made pie crust. 4 Place in the fridge until the filling has set. Serve with diced mango. Enjoy!
Pro tip: the WORSE the ambience in an Indian/Pakistani restaurant, the better the food. Find one with fluorescent lights & picnic tables. @McLovin
@Caleb_Shomo
That annoying moment in a restaurant when you get excited to see your food coming, but the waiter drops it off at
Today will be a good day, because I decided it will be a good day. That, and my day started with tasting different cupcakes.
another table.
@ComedyandTruth
involved!
Follow us on Twitter and become a fan on Facebook for exclusive offers, heaps of dining tips and regular giveaways. Twitter: @foodiehk Facebook: www.facebook. com/foodiehk
twitter.com/foodiehk // may 2013
*i'd do Anything to be skinny besides eat healthy or work out*
get
07
Chewin' the Fat with...
chewin' the fat
tried & tasted
tried &tasted new restaurants and special menus
stone Nullah Tavern 69 Stone Nullah Lane, Wanchai
3182 0128
Boy, did these guys get it right: With Linguini Fini, Posto Pubblico and Pizzeria Pubblico, as well as Homegrown Foods to their name, IHM have added this cool little eatery offering New American fare on a funky side street in Wanchai. New American? It’s what they’re calling their twisted take on traditional Yankee eats. Dishes include moreish chicken fried steak with sausage gravy; clams with tripe; mac ‘n’ cheese; delicioustasting Brussels sprouts charred to caramelisation
that made eating veggies a pleasure rather than a chore; tater tots (little fried potato bites) with aioli; foie gras mini burgers; and crispy pig’s head. Chef Vinny is passionate about his produce and creative combinations, and this shines through on every plate. Plus, you can order a few things and not be frightened by the thought of the notoriously oversized portions that the country is famous for. They also serve wine from Francis Ford Coppola’s vineyard (how cool is that) and have managed to staff the joint with people who both look like they’re having fun and know what they’re doing. The place: A large open-bar frontage with retro styling, a big-windowed kitchen and vintage lighting – this is the kind of place you want to hang out and have a drink, then have a bite to eat and then hang out some more. It’s cool, welcoming and delicious. Finish me off: Their desserts deserve to have a bit of room saved somewhere in the tum. The Fat Kid Cake is unbelievable. It has to be seen to be believed, and it's served with a candle on top, even though it may not be your birthday. How did they know celebrating regular days is one of our favourite things? Final note: We adored this place and will be frequent visitors.
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tried & tasted
Watermark Level P, Central Pier 7, Star Ferry, Central 2167 7251 The new mark: In other words, there’s a new man behind the kitchen counter, and his name is Dominic South (formerly of se sa me). With a line of great restaurants including Nobu London listed under his repertoire, Chef South is bringing a whole bagful of culinary expertise with him to Watermark. South’s mark on the menu: It is still heavily seafood oriented, but Chef South’s cooking beliefs of "clean, simple and seasonality" are the main focal points, and you clearly see them on the new menu. Don’t expect big Asian influences – contrary to South’s previous experiences, the flavours here are quite Modern European, although the preparation and presentation have a familiar Japanese-minimalism vibe. What we tasted: Canapés of gougères, crab tartlet with fennel mayonnaise and lobster bisque were a good start to the meal – small, tasty bites and sips that got our appetites going. The starter of seared scallops with tomato tartare, pine nuts and basil oil was a great combination of flavours, and we especially liked the Ibérico-ham-turnedcrisp garnish, but were a tad disappointed that our scallops were overcooked. The same is to be said of the beef tenderloin that erred more to medium well than the medium rare we requested. However, the roasted sea bass main course with Ratte potato mash (that was sublimely made with what we assume was a heavenly tonne of butter) was perfectly cooked with crisp golden skin and tender, flaked opaque flesh. We finished with the dessert of dark chocolate liquid tart with basil ice cream and star anise, which was indeed liquid-y and moist, albeit slightly overwhelmed by the aromatic herb and spice.
Shop 1304–1305, 13/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay 3543 1128 What’s new? The premium sushi brand under the ubiquitous Genki Sushi, sen-ryo has quickly gained a reputation for its quality seafood since its first outlet opening in 2005. Now with eight eateries across Hong Kong, their latest focus is on the Hysan Place location, where a new menu has recently been launched. Foodie ate: We tried the salmon roll, which encased crisp salmon skin and cucumber strips; a parma ham roll with a fresh new pairing of green apple, lettuce and flying fish roe; a serving of grilled giant red shrimp with butter; and an unconventional, sumptuous dish of deep-fried pork ribs coated in balsamic vinegar dressing. If you are a fan of natural, unadulterated crustacean flavours, the shrimp is served with a small brushing of butter and a whole lot of natural shrimp mustard. Insider’s note: Full of depth and well-balanced flavours, the yuzu kosho seafood salad really hit all the right spots for us in terms of acidity from the citrus juice, spiciness from the Sichuan peppercorns and fresh sea saltiness from the salmon roe. We couldn’t get enough of it. Do also try the seared olive flounder muscle (Japanese flatfish), if you’d like a taste of oily, fatty, lip-smackingly-tasty sea goodness. Final note: While prices may be a little on the steep side, the freshness of the seafood and balance of the flavours makes it worth it. We were quite impressed with the quality of the seafood, especially from a conveyor-belt sushi chain restaurant, and with ingredients sourced directly from the largest seafood market in the world – Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market – we would willingly go back for second and third rounds.
facebook.com/foodiehk // may 2013
The mark left on us: Though not all the dishes were precisely executed, we like the new direction that Chef South is taking Watermark. His flavours are mostly well considered and balanced, and we don’t have a doubt that by the time this review is published, the kitchen’s execution kinks will have been well ironed out.
sen-ryo
13
tried & tasted
Amico Italian Wine Bar & Restaurant 7/F, 1 Knutsford Terrace, TST
2311 2368
Knock, knock: There’s a new Italiano kid in Knutsford Terrace, helmed by ex-Sabatini staff members, and it’s giving the competition a run for its money with their extremely reasonable prices, quality ingredients, ridiculously impressive wine list and attentive service. Our warm welcome: As soon as the truffle butter and warm, fresh bread appeared on the table, our Foodie radar sensed we were in for a quality meal. Besides the lobster bisque and cappuccino cream, which needed more punch, the rest of the dishes were pleasantly good. Linguine with Sicilian red prawns served with a date tomato (a Sicilian tomato variety akin to a grape tomato) sauce reminiscent of shellfish broth was bold and had great depth of flavour, worth its listing as one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Penne with Italian sausage, sun-dried tomato and black truffle 14
was served with a similar tomato sauce – sans the shellfish – but was lacking the aromatic truffles we were expecting. The main course of lamb chops with hunter-style sauce was an interesting take on the traditional French chasseur sauce, with an added touch of flavour from some plump caper berries, anchovies and rosemary, whilst the veal cutlet with morel sauce was more earthy and subtle. News from the block: Though we couldn’t fit anything else in ourselves, we hear the signature lemon tartufata is a good, refreshing dessert with which to end the night. Might not be a bad idea to follow it with a shot of limoncello before heading back home either. Is it worth the travel to the Dark Side? If you were already planning on heading to Kowloon, we would definitely say yes. And if you weren’t, we would say that we ourselves could very possibly be persuaded to leave the island for a night of Italian romance, with Amico's modest prices, great service and extensive wine list wooing us across the harbour.
tried & tasted
Il Milione
G16–21, Hutchinson House, 10 Harcourt Road, Central 2481 1120 What is it? This swish brand-spanking-new Italian lounge and restaurant, located incongruously between caffè HABITU and Subway amongst the maze of inter-connected buildings that make up Central, specialises in the unique combination of vintage cocktails and Umbrian cuisine.
The Umbrian menu: Many of us are familiar with the gastronomic traditions of the Italian regions of Tuscany and Lazio (Rome), for instance,
We’ll be back for the tipples: Il Milione’s cocktail menu, crafted by award-winning mixologist Giancarlo Mancino, gets our own prize for most creative; fashioned after the front page of an oldworld-style newspaper called Bar Giornale, it lists an interesting range of vintage cocktails, with the oldest – the house negroni – dating all the way back to 1254 (this cocktail’s pleasant orange-scented bitterness made for an ideal aperitivo). Also included are the largest selection of G&Ts we’ve come across in HK, refreshing spritzers and daiseys and fun, spiced punches. The elegant and varied stemware gets our Foodie seal of approval too.
twitter.com/foodiehk // may 2013
The million-dollar design: Behind Il Milione’s imposing gold front door – which feels like entering a private members’ club – is an utterly gorgeous cocktail bar decked out in warm tones with an abundance of gold accents and a glass cabinet showing off a range of impressive vintage alcohol bottles. The sexy low-ceilinged dining room towards the back features a slightly obscured open kitchen that appears deliciously illicit.
but what of Umbria? Landlocked Umbria, smack dab in the centre of Italy, is known for its earthy, fresh seasonal cuisine. The liberal use of extravirgin olive olive (Il Milione’s house EVOO is the delightful light-green-hued Lirys, produced from Moraiolo olives) and delicate herbs give Chef Marco Gubbiotti’s dishes a much lighter feel than most of the stodgy Italian food we’ve come to dread in Hong Kong. Despite this, our meal didn’t get off to the most promising start with Chef Marco’s signature poached cod fillet in a soup of organic chickpeas. We enjoyed the dish’s bright touch of candied orange, but we found the fish itself lacking the oomph that should be the hallmark of a chef’s signature, with the “crispy” cod skin adornment verging on soggy. Next up was a traditional passatelli pasta made with breadcrumbs, eggs and Parmesan cheese. While we appreciate Chef Marco’s attempt to introduce new and different flavours to the HK palate, for us the passatelli was bland and heavy and didn’t pair well with the fragrant (and delicious) lobster broth. Our meal improved with a lovely pan-fried pigeon breast, which also boasted the most visually enticing presentation of the savoury lot. We’re happy to report that things ended on a positive (sweet) note. Our hands-down favourite elements were the two sorbets (blackberry and celery) accompanying the pre-dessert and main dessert offerings – the celery sorbet in particular was a taste revelation – and the unusual crispy rolled cornet, made out of lentils and filled with pistachio mousse, was also a winner. The five-course tasting menu clocks in at $990 per person (sans wine pairings) – erring on the high side for cooking that's perfectly pleasant but not wow inducing.
15
tried & and tasted tipsy
Kaetsu Mezzanine, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai 2584 7722 What's new? The spring menu of fresh produce and miso-inspired sauces turns frowns upside down during these rainy months. The vibe: As a restaurant in the Grand Hyatt, Kaetsu almost can’t disappoint in terms of looks. A sanctuary against the majestic aura outside, the restaurant is a tranquil alcove that nods to Japanese Zen architecture. The food: Airiness is perhaps the best term to describe Kaetsu’s new menu: the delicately adorable baby sea bream sushi rice ball appetiser of crispy, translucent fish skin wrapped in Japanese rice is one to whet the appetite. If you’re not one for raw food – it is a pity, because Kaetsu's sashimi are chunks of (healthy and guilt-free) fatty delights – we recommend opting for the Sazae shellfish. Served on top of a mini ceramic stove, the shellfish is mixed in a simmering cocktail of mushroom soup, sea urchin and ginkgo nuts. Straying away from the healthy train are the firefly squid and snow crab tempura. The belly of the squid – a rare selection for frying in this Japanese batter – pops comically in your mouth as you chew, while the crab holds up to its promise of freshness and meatiness even underneath the crispy layer. Foodie review by: Joyce Yip who spends her life finding a cure for her sweet tooth and travel bug.
CARNEVINO 5/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen's Road Central, Central 2352 77003 What’s new? Their casual-dining bar menu, featuring three courses with either a quartino of wine, a beer or a house cocktail for $488. What’s on offer? A choice of delightfully fresh calamari, tangy salumi salad or bone marrow with preserved lemon gremolata for starters, followed by the succulent CARNEVINO burger, a selection of cured meats or the plump and juicy house sausage for mains and the too-hard-to-choose-between lemon semifreddo, chocolate-banana brownie or doughnut-like bomboloni with strawberry-rhubarb compote for afters. Paired with a glass of their vibrant I Perazzi wine, this bar menu is an all-inone fast and fantastic feast. The place: This sexy steakhouse oozes romance and intimacy. Ideal for dining solo or with a companion, the dark wood, leather and subtly warm lighting set the scene for private conversation or deep thoughts. Who should go? Great for after-work eats or those in a hurry, the food comes with efficient ease while making sure the diner is fully sated in a delicious food stupor. Final note: A great way to dine in this sultry steakhouse without breaking the bank.
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tried & tipsy
tried & tipsy
Daiquiri Said to be a fave of Ernest Hemingway and president John F Kennedy, the traditional daiquiri was a simple mixture of rum, lime juice, sugar and shaved ice. These days, however, most associate it with an alcohol-spiked version of a frozen smoothie. Whether or not it comes with fruit, served with blended ice or just chilled, we think if it’s good enough for Kennedy and Hemingway, it’s good enough for us!
Peak Café Bar
Dada Bar + Lounge
5/F and 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central 2810 6166
9–13 Shelley Street, SoHo, 2140 6877
2/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberly Road, TST 3763 8778
It’s strawberry and alcohol-ly, and also the most dangerous one we tried, as we couldn’t taste the alcohol but did feel the effects later…along with a killer brain freeze. This best-selling fruit daiquiri at the Peak Café is made with fresh strawberries, sweet and sour mix, strawberry liqueur and Havana Club rum. It is the girlie girl’s drink, and it reminded us how lucky we are to be girls, being able to order such a drink without any inhibitions. This doesn’t mean that boys can’t have it too (just get your gal pals to order it for you!). Strawberry, sugar and ice: all things nice, right?
The Hemingway’s daiquiri here is an ode to the traditional version, with fresh grapefruit juice and maraschino liqueur added to the mix. With the slight bitterness from the citrus juice and Marasca cherry flavours, this drink is for those who prefer their cocktails not too sweet, making for a great aperitif. The bartender informed us that Hemingway replaced sugar with grapefruit juice in his daiquiris, due to his onset diabetes. He may have benefited more by completely eliminating the booze, but we guess the daiquiris were just too good to resist.
The Pampero Blanco seasonal daiquiri here is made from Venezuelan white rum, house-made spice syrup with cloves and star anise and fresh lime juice. It’s all given a quick shake with some ice and flair (as expected from Lily & Bloom’s skilled bartenders), and out of all three versions we tried, this is the closest to the original daiquiri. Light and refreshing, with flavours reminiscent of a caipirinha, we loved the lingering aftertaste of the warm spices. It’s one of our favourites, though we would love it if it came in a bigger martini glass, and was filled to the brim.
www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
Lily & Bloom
17
food war
food WAR
Fruit Danishes
This elusive pastry can be hard to find in Hong Kong, but we sought out four varieties and put their fluffy dough to the taste test to find out which is best
The Mandarin Cake Shop – $22 Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Road West, Central 2825 4008
triple threat of looks, taste and overall value
This one was as beautiful to look at as it was delicious to taste. The biggest pastry of the bunch had a lovely flavour all on its own and was enhanced by a diminutive dusting of fresh, thick custard topped off with the most delectable strawberries we’ve ever laid our taste buds on. The decorative sprinkling of icing sugar was literally the icing on the cake for us and made this particular breakfast treat our top Foodie pick. FOODIE RATING
Pacific Coffee Company – $16 Locations absolutely everywhere around Hong Kong The pastry of this elongated Danish had a nice consistency and valiantly held the heavy fruit on top. But the actual flavour of this confection was a bit stale, with the syrup-soaked apricots providing an overly sweet pairing that didn’t mesh well. The custard tasted more like lemon curd and was the best part of this light, airy and tasteless sweet. FOODIE RATING
light, airy but tasteless
18
food war
WHAT MAKES A DANISH A DANISH? The Danish pastry sets itself apart from other pastries as it contains yeast, whereas puff pastry, for instance, uses only steam to make it rise. Danish pastry recipes typically require more butter and also contain sugar, so traditionally they are used only in sweet recipes – versus puff pastry, which can be used for savoury pies as well as sugary confections. Danish fillings vary depending on which country has crafted them, and they can contain everything from jam and custard to chocolate, nuts and even sweet cheese – as well as our Foodie-favourite fruit fillings. Coming in the baker’s choice of shape, these appealing breakfast items come in round “Spandauer’s”, figure eights, spirals and pretzel configurations.
tiny but tasty
Petite Amanda – $20 Shop 2096, Podium Level 2, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central 2234 7222 This tiny, pretty square was the next-tastiest option, with the best custard of them all – not too sweet but fresh and subtle – providing a lovely undertone to the juicy mango and flaky, air-rich pastry shell. The pastry had a delicately buttery flavour, was the fluffiest of the lot, with no trace of a soggy middle, and contained an overall aromatic sweetness we adored. FOODIE RATING
Passion by Gérard Dubois – $25 74–80 Johnston Road, Wanchai 2529 1311
FOODIE RATING
beauty before substance
Join the debate and tell us which is your favourite on our Facebook page.
www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
The first runner-up in our pastry beauty pageant, this one fell a bit short in the substance division. The very dense layers of pastry looked golden and flaky but tasted a bit bland and soggy. The custard had an eggy flavour that looked as if it had been baked along with the Danish, so it was a bit congealed, but it still tasted all right when paired with the syrupy fruit topping.
19
street view
start your next gourmet-goodie shopping spree at the latest mall Mecca to hit Causeway Bay,
street view Gloucester Rd
Comfort Court
Hysan Place lifestyle
hysan place
2
eslite
10/F fashion & accessories
fashion & accessories
4/F
dining
ladies’ lifestyle
4 3
Sky Garden
5/F
1
5
garden eden
6/F
13/F
1
Cheesess No, that’s not a typo – and, yes, Japanese Cheesess does bake up some of the finest cheesecakes in town, with beautiful packaging to match. Recommended flavours range from Kyoto raspberry to London Earl Grey tea, but we particularly like the dainty teacup New York cheesecake, baked inside an actual re-usable teacup. Cheesess also offers signature wine-infused berry sauces for cheesecake drizzling. Shop 625, 6/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay 2504 5500
2
cha FoR Tea This takeaway Taiwanese tea outlet located in the coolest bookshop in the world – eslite – is a purveyor of delicious hot and iced teas, served with and without pearls and including several fruity and herbal options. Iced bubble tea is the only way to go in our books, with our personal fave being the iced black milk tea, heavy on those delightfully chewy pearls. eslite, 10/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay 3419 6788
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street view
4
smile 3 Paul Lafayet Patisserie Française This boutique French bakery is most famous for its jewel-toned macarons, hand-made daily and preservative free, but we also can’t say no to Monsieur Lafayet’s gorgeous artisanal pastries, baked using the best of the best ingredients from around the world (think Madagascan vanilla and almonds from Valencia). One look at their berries and macarons tart and you’ll understand why we think pastry chefs should be considered some of the world’s finest artists.
Though pricier than most froyo joints, Smile definitely tops our list, and this location has a lovely balcony café area to boot. Instead of standard cups and cones, Smile’s tartas-it-should-be frozen yoghurt is served in a pretty layered sundae fashion. The divine Vanilla Sky with vanilla noodles, vanilla sauce, home-made cookie crumbs, mango cubes and fresh blueberries is a beauty to behold. Shop 509, 5/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay 2811 8321
Shop 410, 4/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay 2327 0251
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Launched by local restaurant impresario Tony Cheng (of AMMO and The Drawing Room fame), Le Salon is part elegant French restaurant serving classic bistro fare, part croissant shop. It’s the croissant part of the venture that we’d like to rave about: made with a 50/50 butter-to-flour ratio – both imported from France – the croissants are insanely buttery and flaky, with flavours including chestnut, caramel and chocolate. Shop 1302, 13/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay 2115 3328
www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
Le salon Restaurant et Croissanterie
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the foodie forks
Our annual dining awards provide the complete low-down on where to dine in the food Mecca of Hong Kong. We asked, you answered; here are your favourite places to eat in the city
Best New Restaurant READERS’ CHOICE Brickhouse With a huge number of votes, Brickhouse is a brick powerhouse on the local dining scene. This little Mexican, tucked away off a hidden alley in LKF, is the place for those in the know – and to impress any who aren‘t. You guys love this place, and rightly so. With its cool vibe, tasty tacos, stylish crowd and charismatic head chef, what’s not to love? 20A D'Aguilar Street, LKF
has worked with the likes of Nico Ladenis, Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay and Ferran Adrià. His tapas offerings are a combination of Spanish and Asian influences with a strong European base. Casual, cool and hip, with extremely tasty bites and a great line up of Spanish beers, he has made 22 Ships one of the best and hottest go-to tapas bars in town. 22 Ship Street, Wanchai
2810 0560
EDITOR’S CHOICE 22 Ships A culinary force with a Michelin star and multiple successful restaurants to his name, Jason Atherton 22
proud sponsor
22 Ships
2555 0722
HONOURABLE MENTIONS Chicha Peru officially arrived in Hong Kong with this Latin hot spot, with diners booking weeks ahead to sample the deliciously lethal pisco sours, hard-shell tacos and signature ceviche. Chicha is cool, it’s buzzy – and it’s no surprise it’s been chosen as one of the 852’s most awesome newcomer. 26 Peel Street, SoHo
2561 3336
Restoration
EDITOR’S CHOICE
This New Orleans- and Creole-inspired restaurant nurtures the body with hearty, soul-warming dishes like grits, jambalaya, Po’ boys and gumbo. It’s Southern soul-food cooking with deep, robust flavours that have been modernised with new cooking techniques and a great, casual style that’s also funky. In other words, it’s like an edible hug from a loving Southern mama. 1/F, 63 Wyndham Street, LKF
Yardbird
2536 0183
This cosy, dimly lit Italian bistro is a no-brainer Foodie fave – we could make a whole meal out of their luscious antipasti platter, draped with cured meats and home-made mozzarella. We also dig their perfectly al dente pasta dishes and chicken and eggplant Parmesan. When we’re not in the mood to cook, it’s Posto all the way. 28 Elgin Sreet, SoHo
The Salted Pig Our favourite pork paradise is a haven for hungry tums, with a fast and tasty lunch menu and deeply filling supper sets that are reasonably priced and delicious. The simple décor suits any occasion and makes us return again and again to this fine swine establishment. 2/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Road Central, Central 2870 2323
Outstanding Reliable Favourite
READERS’ CHOICE Lovers of chicken flock here for the finger-lickin’ yakitori of chicken oyster, liver, neck, heart and tail. Besides chicken and skewers, the other sumptuous dishes are equally worth the hype, as are the cocktails. This is a trendy, chic joint that’s never going to grow old. 2547 9273
2577 7160
HONOURABLE MENTIONS Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao One of the most popular Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong offers a wide range of local delicacies at reasonable prices. Shop B221A ,Times Square, Causeway Bay 2506 0080 Shop 2018–2020, 2/F, Tower Two, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central 2295 3811
yè shanghai This elegant old-style Shanghainese restaurant boasts some of the most pristine service in town, and it’s where we head when we have guests to impress. We can always count on yè shanghai for excellent food and surroundings to match. Go for the Kowloon outlet and its stunning views. 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, 3 Canton Road, TST 2376 3322
facebook.com/foodiehk // may 2013
Yardbird
33–35 Bridges Street, Sheung Wan
Posto Pubblico
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HONOURABLE MENTIONS Masahiro Yoshitake of Sushi Yoshitake
Danny Chaney of Blue Butcher
Chef of the Year (and we’re talking best food, not biggest celebrity)
Chef Masahiro Yoshitake
Our meal at this seemingly humble eight-seat sushi counter ranked as one of our tops not only of 2012 – but EVER. And it was all thanks to the superb skills of this sushi hero from Toyko, who notched up two stars in the 2013 Michelin Guide for his Hong Kong outpost, despite opening only a few months previously.
The Mercer, 29 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan 9697 6800
READERS’ CHOICE Danny Chaney of Blue Butcher Heading the kitchen at what has got to be Hong Kong’s best meat house, Danny Chaney ages and prepares all his meat in-house in Blue Butcher’s dry-aging room. The American chef has created an impressive menu that is full of simple dishes done to perfection. Chaney’s pairings are absolutely inspired, as is his creative dedication to his culinary craft. 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan
2613 9286
Matt Bishop of 22 Ships The head chef of this incredible eatery has built his career working with the legendary Jason Atherton and deserves absolute credit for the day-to-day deliciousness that sails out of 22 Ships. The artistic dishes are built so that each ingredient plays a role in constructing the perfect flavour and texture on the tongue. Matt is truly one of Hong Kong’s top chefs in his own right. 22 Ship Street, Wanchai
2555 0722
EDITOR’S CHOICE Edgar Sanuy Barahona of BCN We get a kick out of watching this Spanish chef in action behind his tiny tiled tapas bar. Chef Edgar is clearly passionate about his delicious, authenticwith-a-twist dishes, and he’s constantly interacting with diners, explaining the ingredients and cooking methods with gusto. We wish more chefs took as much pride in their cooking. 37 Peel Street, SoHo
2811 2851 Chef Edgar Sanuy Barahona of BCN
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Jaakko Sorsa of FINDS This talented and effervescent Finn cooks up the Nordic cuisine that FINDS is famous for with panache, and a passion for cooking that shines through in every dish. 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberly Road, TST 2522 9318
Vicky Cheng of Liberty Private Works The man behind Liberty Private Works, Vicky Cheng is a man with artistic culinary visions. The Canadian-born talent was under the tutelage of renowned Daniel Boulud before helming this restaurant at the mere age of 26. His dishes are creative gastronomy at its finest, perfectly executed and exquisitely presented as masterpieces to diners. 26/F, 11 Stanley Street, Central
5186 3282
Legendary Local Food (authentic Chinese)
READERS’ CHOICE
Din Tai Fung This packed-to-the-rafters import from Taiwan is your choice for the best xiao long bao in town, as well as an array of yummy dumplings, buns, noodles and Shanghainese and Sichuan small plates. 68 Yee Woo Street, Causeway Bay
3160 8998
2730 6928
This street crêpe joint was high on your nomination list, and it’s easy to see why once you’ve had a taste of their moreish traditional jianbings. Bringing a taste of Beijing to Hong Kong, these flour pancakes are jammed full of savoury choices such as char siu or Peking duck, as well as a few sweet options if you’re feeling so inclined. 2568 8248
EDITOR’S CHOICE With Cantonese cuisine made using the freshest ingredients in town, an MSG- and additive-free ethos and sweet and simple décor, we’ve never been disappointed by a trip to The Chairman, and the service is impeccable. 2555 2202
Tung Po For a typical (read: no-frills and noisy) HK dining experience, our readers head to this cookedfood-centre dai pai dong for basic but excellent traditional Canto cooking (the stir-fried veggies seem to be particularly admired) and beer that’s drunk out of small rice bowls. 2/F, Java Road Municipal Services Building, 99 Java Road, North Point 2880 5224
Yung Kee Roast goose reigns supreme at this Cantonese eatery, which celebrated its 70th anniversary last year and has racked up lots of awards throughout its culinary history. 32–40 Wellington Street, Central
2522 1624
twitter.com/foodiehk // may 2013
The Chairman
18 Kau U Fong, Sheung Wan
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Shop 130, 3/F, Silvercord, 30 Canton Road, TST
Mr Bing
83 Wellington Street, Central
Mr Bing, Beijing-style street crêpes
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the foodie forks
8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana
Primo Private Kitchen
EDITOR’S CHOICE TBLS
READERS’ CHOICE ChômChôm Although Chef Peter Cuong Franklin’s well-loved pho bar and Vietnamese private kitchen on Central’s Wellington Street has recently closed its doors, Chef Peter tells us he’s hoping to open a new (bigger and better) ChômChôm very soon – which will kick off with a pop-up prior to launch. In the meantime, Chef Peter plans a food-research trip to Vietnam for menu inspiration. Exciting stuff. To stay up to date on ChômChôm’s progress, check out their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ ChomChomPhoBar. 2868 3302
We’ve gone back again and again to this intimate restaurant hidden away at the top of a dingy SoHo building. Reservations can (and should) be made two months in advance for Chef Que Vinh Dang’s regularly changing tasting menus with their emphasis on global comfortfood dishes with a twist. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Road, SoHo
2544 3433
Must-try Michelin Star READERS’ CHOICE 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Your favourite Continental fine-dining establishment is the only three-Michelin-starred Italian restaurant outside Italy. Helmed by renowned Chef Umberto Bombana, this is an easy choice for a reliably wonderful meal that is expertly executed and delicious. 2/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central 2537 8859
EDITOR’S CHOICE The Principal ChômChôm, fresh spring rolls
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Serving innovative European cuisine, The Principal
has earned its first Michelin star by delighting its diners with modern cooking techniques that produce delectable dishes. Chef Jonay Armas likes to put a contemporary twist on traditional home-style foods, making for an exciting and sumptuous dining experience. 9 Star Street, Wanchai
2563 3444
HONOURABLE MENTIONS Caprice Famous for its haute cuisine, this three-Michelinstarred French fantasy is a dream dining experience. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance Street, Central 3196 8888
Ming Court Prepare to be blown away by this two-Michelinstarred Cantonese noshery. A delightful mixture of classical Cantonese dishes with a dash of exciting molecular gastronomy provide the extra wow factor. 6/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok 3552 3300
Shang Palace
Caféine, latte
Champion Cup of Coffee READERS’ CHOICE Rabbithole Coffee and Roaster Run by coffee enthusiasts, this charming hole-inthe-wall offers wonderfully unique artisan coffee beans, different coffee-brewing techniques and classes. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St, SoHo
2581 0861
EDITOR’S CHOICE Caféine This brand-new brew house serves up its own roasted blend of a supreme jolt of java along with gourmet cuisine that’s got us hooked.
Chef Mok Kit Keung’s Michelin menu is extensive and filled with sublime updated takes on traditional Cantonese cuisine. Plus, the main dining room is über glam – the immense sparkling chandeliers take our breath away every time.
The Putman, 202 Queen’s Road Central, Sheung Wan 2563 3444
Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Raod, TST East 2733 8754
Barista Jam
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
Packed with specialist coffee equipment, barista tools and perfectly brewed cups of coffee, Barista Jam is the go-to for coffee enthusiasts. 126–128 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan 2854 2211
Nestled amidst the bustling shopping scene of IFC Mall, this Kiwi-born coffee spot is a sanctuary of tranquillity with its consistently good cup of caffeine fuel, jazzy tunes and comfortable setting. Shop 3023, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central The Principal, ceviche
2295 3815
www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
Fuel Espresso
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the foodie forks
Antonio Lai at Quinary
Most Lethal Mixologist READERS’ CHOICE Suraj Gurung of Blue Butcher It’s all about the details here, from the metal straws in his mint juleps to the paper-bagenclosed apple pie moonshine. The mixes behind the bar are carefully concocted by Suraj and are as tasty as they are lethal. This well-seasoned mixologist is responsible for temptingly irresistible alcoholic blends – and one too many hangovers. 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan
2613 9286
EDITOR’S CHOICE Antonio Lai of Quinary Armed with a centrifuge and rotary evaporator, Antonio slaves over his laboriously crafted cocktails that taste a dream. You’ll pay for the privilege, but, man, are they beautifully made. 56–58 Hollywood Road, SoHo
2851 3223
HONOURABLE MENTIONS Max Traverse of Honi Honi Shaking up the local cocktail scene with his Polynesian libations, Max is known for using fresh fruit in his blends, and his menu is full of fun tiki creations. 3/F, Somptueux Central, 52 Wellington Street, LKF 2353 0885
Tom Wood of Sal Curioso Previously of the mysterious Wyndham the 4th, Tom has recently taken up post at Sal Curioso where he will showcase the skills that named him Hong Kong’s World Class Bartender of 2012. 2/F, 32 Wyndham Street, LKF
2537 7555
Standout Sommelier READERS' CHOICE John Chan of Amber Suraj Gurung of Blue Butcher
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John Chan has years of experience in sniffing,
the foodie forks
swirling, and pairing wines, and you can bet that he will choose the finest glass to match Amber’s Michelin-starred modern French cuisine. Diners also love his poetic descriptions of Old and New World wines, such as referring to Pinot Noir as a “charming lady in a silk dress”. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central 2132 0066
EDITOR'S CHOICE Zachary Yu, the “Wine Guy” at Ming Court Pairing wine with fine Cantonese cuisine is a relatively new (and tricky) undertaking, but Zachary does it with an expertise that perfectly complements each dish. Plus, we love that he’s called the Wine Guy. 6/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok 3552 3300
HONOURABLE MENTION Yvonne Cheung of Café Gray Deluxe A female trailblazer in the Hong Kong wine scene, Yvonne’s known for introducing boutique wines to foodie palates. She is the nose and palate responsible for Café Gray’s constantly evolving wine list, which features both world-renowned and artisan wineries, all complementing the seasonaldriven menu. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty 3968 1106
Guilt-free Gourmet
EDITOR'S CHOICE PURE Bar + Restaurant With a great collection of calorie-counted options on their menu, you can rest easy knowing exactly what you’re eating at PURE. Also, their 100-percent fresh, organic tipples make a cheeky cocktail feel positively pious. Kinwick Centre, 32 Hollywood Road
8199 8189
HONOURABLE MENTIONS MANA! Featuring a menu that’s organic, vegan and raw, with numerous gluten-free options, MANA! has been the go-to spot for vegans and vegetarians since it opened its doors last year. 92 Wellington Street, Central
2851 1611
Life Restaurant & Bar
Wild Grass
Still going strong after almost a decade, this vegetarian restaurant/deli/haven is recognised for their delicious and healthy signature salads, soups, sandwiches and freshly baked organic items.
A nose-to-tail restaurant with organic, seasonal and sustainable eats alongside reclaimed-wood furniture and an admirable eco-conscious philosophy.
10 Shelley Street, SoHo
1/F, 4-8 Arbuthnot Road, Central
2810 9777
2810 1189
www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
READERS' CHOICE
Zachary Yu, the "Wine Guy" at Ming Court
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in the raw
Isola, al fresco dining
Finest Al Fresco
HONOURABLE MENTION Tamarind
READERS’ CHOICE Isola Isola’s nearly all-white interior is definitely Eurochic, but it’s the Italian restaurant’s spacious rooftop terrace that got your votes for its chilled vibe and killer harbour views, either during a sunny weekend brunch or at night, with the lights all a-twinkling. Shop 3071–75, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central 2383 8765
EDITOR’S CHOICE Gaia This upscale Italian restaurant has fabulous food and attentive service, but we keep going back for its terrace overlooking buzzy Grand Millennium Plaza. It’s the perfect people-watching arena to get a glimpse of all the cool and crazy walks of life that make up Sheung Wan. The Piazza, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Road Central, Sheung Wan 2167 8200 30
Although the mix of Thai, Vietnamese and Indian food at this pan-Asian eatery is very good, it’s Tamarind’s awesome outdoor terrace that does it for us. Spacious and with sweeping sea views, it’s an excellent spot for eating, drinking and lounging – or all three. 2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Road, Wanchai 2827 7777
Greatest Group Dining READERS’ CHOICE Sal Curioso This quaint and quirky Latin-inspired restaurant is designed specifically for social dining – ie, if in need of a place to feed and liquor up your group of friends, head here. Dishes are a mix of Spanish, Italian and South American cuisine, featuring house-made breads and charcuterie. The uniquely designed space makes it the ideal hangout for foodies looking to feed their curious bellies. 2/F, 32 Wyndham Street, LKF
2537 7555
the foodie forks
EDITOR’S CHOICE Maxim’s Palace, City Hall This huge yum cha palace is our first port of call when we have visitors who are in the mood for a true Hong Kong-style dining experience, with traditional trolleys carting around an array of dim sum dishes. Although we’re the first to admit the service may not be the friendliest in the world, this grand dining room is a great choice for groups looking for a fun meal out. 2/F, Low Block, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central 2521 1303
HONOURABLE MENTION Classified
Café Siam The four separate dining areas that make up this newly revamped, perennially popular Thai restaurant are ideal spaces for private parties. Groups can seclude themselves in stylish colonialstyle surroundings while savouring some of the best Thai food on the island. 2/F and 3/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, LKF 2851 4803
Best Breakfast READERS’ CHOICE Oolaa
Centre Stage, Bridges Street, Sheung Wan 2803 2083
Classified With eight outlets around Hong Kong, most of us should be relatively near a branch of this cosy café chain, which offers up a simply beautiful brekkie. The breads and pastries, all served with French butter and jam, taste just as good as they look, and Classified’s eggs Benedict fits the bill when you’re feeling exceptionally ravenous first thing. 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan
2525 3454
(plus other locations throughout Hong Kong)
HONOURABLE MENTION The Flying Pan Serving breakfast 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, it’s no wonder The Flying Pan offers a seemingly endless menu of brekkie, egg and omelette combinations, though it’s hard to get past their house specialty of eggs Benedict with grilled ham. With 18 pages on their menu, this is the place to head to when you have a craving for bacon, eggs, toast or beans but don’t have a clue exactly what to order. 9 Old Bailey Street, SoHo, 2140 6333
facebook.com/foodiehk // may 2013
This huge open-fronted international restaurant (6,000 square feet, in fact) is fab any time of day, but readers particularly like it for breakfast, starting bright and early at 7am daily. Whether it’s the breakfast pizza, signature strawberry pancakes or brekkie burrito – all in American-sized portions – you can’t get enough of Oolaa’s delicious morning offerings.
EDITOR’S CHOICE
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Choicest Cheap Eats READERS’ CHOICE Tsui Wah
Maison Eric Kayser
For tasty eats that are easy on the wallet, you can’t get much better than this down-and-dirty Canto diner, especially late at night. Regulars adore Tsui Wah’s so-wrong-it’s-right toasted, buttery bun drizzled with condensed milk, creamy iced coffee and spicy, fork-tender beef brisket curry. G/F–2/F, 15–19 Wellington Street, Central 2525 6338 (plus other locations throughout Hong Kong)
EDITOR’S CHOICE K-Roll This tiny takeaway serves up Korea’s own version of sushi, and it’s run by the sweetest bunch of Korean ladies in town. K-Roll has become Foodie’s fave choice for a healthy, delicious and affordable lunch in the ‘hood (we can’t get enough of the shrimp korritto). Shop 6A, Sen Fat Building, 6 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan 2234 5505/5506
HONOURABLE MENTIONS Kwan Kee Claypot Rice A veritable master of claypot, you’ll find Kwan Kee by following the snaking queue and sizzling smells of the charcoal-fired claypot rice that’s among the very best in Hong Kong. Shop 1, Wo Yick Mansion, 263 Queen's Road West, Sheung Wan 2803 7209
This bare-bones taqueria does everything in an extremely tasty fashion. From burritos, quesadillas and refried beans to the four varieties of taco, this place is great for eating alone or a quick bite on the go. 3432
READERS’ CHOICE Po’s Atelier This minimalistic open kitchen in the hip PoHo neighbourbood of Sheung Wan is your choice for your daily bread. Its artisan range of preservativefree Asian-inspired loafs – infused with oolong tea, for instance – are crafted by Japanese baker supremo Masami Asano and displayed like precious jewels behind a glass counter. 62 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan
6056 8005
EDITOR’S CHOICE Passion by Gérard Dubois It’s hard to beat this quaint, corner bakery when it comes to a proper French café experience in Hong Kong. Breads made exclusively with French flour are freshly baked on site twice a day in an authentic stone oven, including crusty baguettes, distinctive sourdoughs made the traditional way and Provençal fougasse. The line up of pastries, from golden-layered millefeuille to rich ganache tarts and nutty, sweet nougat, are the perfect teatime indulgence. Fraser Suites, 74–80 Johnston Road, Wanchai 2529 1311
HONOURABLE MENTION
Taco Chaca
1 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun
Best for Bread
2599 9519
Maison Eric Kayser Renowned as one of the world’s best bakers, Eric Kayser has opened up a bread lover’s dream restaurant with a handy bakery next door. Shop 14–15, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, TST 2736 2884
twitter.com/foodiehk // may 2013
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meals and is a great addition to Hong Kong’s veggie scene. 35 Staunton Street, SoHo
2613 2909
Ravishingly Romantic READERS’ CHOICE Madam Sixty Ate
Grassroots Pantry, quinoa salad
Veritable Vegetarian READERS’ CHOICE Grassroots Pantry Like our readers, Foodie is also a fan of this utterly lovely and homey veggie café with its distinct feminine touches courtesy of chef-manager Peggy Chan. The local and organic plant-based menu changes according to the seasons, with tasty Thai- and Indian-inspired curries, raw Lebanese kofta and vegan chocolate fudge cake all making appearances. 12 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun
2873 3353
EDITOR’S CHOICE
A gastronomic delight, this Modern European restaurant has everything a foodie date calls for. Edible art plays centre stage here, and flavour combinations are constantly redefined on the plate, matched with fine wines in a whimsical and eclectic setting. It’s clearly the place to bring a foodie you want to impress. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai 2803 2083
EDITOR’S CHOICE CARNEVINO With its abundance of dark wood, leather and dim lighting, this sexy steakhouse screams “date night”. As for the food, CARNEVINO’S plump and juicy slabs of meat make us go weak in the knees. 5/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen’s Road Central, Central 2352 7700
Pure Veggie House We feel virtuous simply entering this calm and charmingly rustic Chinese restaurant, a paean to sublime vegetarian cuisine that’s innovative and packed with flavour. We guarantee that even heavy-hitting meat eaters won’t miss a thing. 3/F, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Road, Mid-Levels 2525 0552
HONOURABLE MENTION The Herbivores This funky little space offers filling meat-free 34
CARNEVINO
the foodie forks
HONOURABLE MENTIONS AMMO This gorgeous glass-enclosed Asian-Mediterranean restaurant, secluded within the Asia Society compound, is glossy yet intimate. Come during the day and you can peer outside at the lush surrounding greenery, or at night for a destination date with a difference. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty
2537 9888
TATE Dining Room & Bar This unusual French/Japanese joint is a sleek, sophisticated and elegant eatery specialising in creative dining that will give you enough dinner conversation to take any heat off a date and keep the focus on the food. The chef creates “edible stories” with incredibly sweet and thoughtful touches that are sure to get you in the good books with your love interest. 59 Elgin Street, SoHo
2555 2172
Café Gray Deluxe's washroom
Lavish Loos READERS’ CHOICE
Inakaya
Café Gray Deluxe
This top tier Japanese provides unparalleled views that make some of Hong Kong’s tallest buildings look positively tiny. This restaurant will make wooing easy but you may have to fight for your date’s attention with a skyline this attractive.
The view from this spacious high-tech loo is sublime. We’ve never seen so many patrons take their own sweet time in a public washroom, but with such a stunning bird’s-eye view of the harbour, who could really blame them?
101/F, ICC, 1 Austin Road West, TST
49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty 3968 1106
2972 2666
EDITOR’S CHOICE Heirloom
AMMO
226 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan
2547 8008
Curious where’s best to eat in Macau? Where’s great for kids? We couldn’t fit all of our delicious winners into this issue so please visit http://bit.ly/TheFoodieForksAwards for the full list of Foodie Forks 2013 award-winning eateries.
www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
With its gorgeous wallpaper and sweet touches, including an old-fashioned bicycle holding spare loo roll, we love visiting this washroom as much as we do this sweet eatery that serves comforting home cooking in an eclectic atmosphere.
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the food nomad
x
the food
nomad
Celia Hu hits the streets of Beijing for some down-home eats that taste of her childhood
Bei Beijing
Beijing, one of the world's greatest metropolises, is steeped in millennia of vibrant culture and rich history. My ancestors have called this northern city “home” for centuries, tracing part of our heritage back to the Eight Banners Manchu convoy that rode into the Forbidden City alongside the carriages of the last imperial ruling family of China. There is something utterly mesmerising and beautifully raw about Beijing. But I miss the old Beijing of my childhood, when a little bit of sesame sauce with cold noodles and cool cucumber slices on a hot summer's day tasted like heaven and children devoured morsels of fresh tomatoes steeped in sugar. In this issue of The Food Nomad, I highlight places that a true Beijinger would appreciate.
Peking duck Quanjude address: 东城区前门大街30号 Nothing screams quintessential Beijing cuisine like a plump, golden brown duck roasted for hours over a fire fuelled by fruit-tree wood. The makings of a “proper” Peking duck is a delicate and time-consuming process that requires plenty of patience and skill. An authentic Peking duck must have a good percentage of fat under the skin yet still retain a delicate crispiness, and each slice must come with meat, skin and fat. With Peking duck, fat is key, so if you can't go big, go home.
Jianbing Jianbing is the poster child of Beijing street food. The combination of thin crêpe covered in gooey egg, brushed with a plethora of sauces, sprinkled with green onions and coriander, all wrapped around a crispy fried wafer of dough, makes it the ultimate comfort food on-thego. You can spot mobile jianbing carts (usually pulled by bicycles) all over Beijing, although they are harder to come by these days, due to more stringent city-planning and health-code regulations. Hint: for all you clubbers, there is a great jianbing cart parked outside the North Gate of the Worker's Stadium during midnight to early mornings, making jianbing the ultimate hangover cure. 36
the food nomad
九门小吃
Nine Doors Food Stalls
西城区德内大街孝友胡同1号(近宋庆龄故居) Contrary to tourist folklore, we Beijingers do not eat scorpions and starfish! The unappetising display of Fear Factor props found alongside popular tourist streets like Wangfujing are simply there for one reason – to draw in tourists. I always snigger when walking past these streets, seeing tourists trying to “connect” with the local culture by eating these weird foods, when no self-respecting Beijinger would ever call these items authentic cuisine. For a taste of real Beijing, head to the food streets that locals would actually visit, such as the Nine Doors Food Stalls. These little shops each specialise in one dish, ranging from crispy fried potato dough drizzled with garlic sauce (爆肚), to pork-stuffed toasted sesame buns (火烧), to fluffy fried milk custard (奶油炸糕).
砂锅居
Sha Guo Ju
西四（缸瓦市）南大街60号 This is an old-timer restaurant that is a darling amongst Beijingers. Sha Guo Ju distinguishes itself by turning out humble commoner dishes as well as extravagant plates that once catered to the Qing Dynasty nobility. Some of my favourites here include the crispy miniature meatballs rolled in salt and pepper, the braised pork hock and a stew made up of sour cabbage, thick glass noodles and thin ribbons of almost translucent pork belly. This is a local eatery, so prices are very reasonable, and you'll definitely leave with a big smile pasted across your face.
烤肉季
Kao Rou Ji 前海东沿14号
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Muslim influence plays a strong hand in local Beijing cuisine, and you’ll find many restaurants catering to Qingzhen cuisine, which means dishes without any pork. Kao Rou Ji has been serving up skewers of roasted mutton since the Qing Dynasty, and a couple of centuries later, it is still popular amongst the locals. Mutton plays a huge part in northern Chinese cuisine, and it has a much stronger flavour than lamb. The mutton skewers at Kao Rou Ji are roasted over open flames to get beautiful caramelisation and are coated with a rich spice layer of cumin and chilli powder.
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the food nomad
东来顺
Dong Lai Shun
138号 Wangfujing Street, Dongcheng A bubbling pot filled with meat and vegetables is the perfect way to power through the harsh, freezing winters of Beijing. Founded in 1903, Dong Lai Shun is still a household name amongst the locals. The house specialty here is mutton, cut into delicate, thin slices and quick-boiled in a coal-burning hotpot with a classic smoke funnel. A traditional dipping sauce combo includes chive flowers, fermented bean curd sauce, minced garlic, sesame sauce and soya sauce.
稻香村
Dao Xiang Cun
安定门立交桥北侧路东(安外东河亚8号楼旁) Founded in 1895, this iconic brand is famous for its vast array of traditional northern Chinese pastries, as well as savoury delicacies like cold braised chicken, sausages and marinated pickles. I am obsessed with the braised chicken (best eaten cold) and smoked quail eggs. Most desserts here are made in the traditional Beijing fashion, with wafer-thin multi-layered pastry well-greased with pork lard, and they come in a plethora of flavours, including red date, black sesame and hawthorn.
Hard-to-stomach quirky Beijing eats: You're not a true Beijinger until you can stomach (and crave) a seemingly repulsive concoction made from fermented bean. This sour, foul-smelling soup (豆汁) has been enticing Beijing palates for centuries, and its unique flavour and aroma can be compared to the French affinity for stinky cheese. Even better (or worse?) – Beijingers have a favourite after-dinner pastime of scavenging for cicadas and frying them up like chicken nuggets.
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afoodieworld
on afoodieworld.com this month Where Hong Kong's food-loving folk come to dine, devour and dish up all things Foodie
Web Feature: Top 5 Korean Restaurants There’s a whole lot more to Korean cuisine than just BBQ and kimchi, and as much as we do enjoy smoking up a Korean BBQ joint on a fairly regular basis, it’s about time we present our top 5 picks of bulgogioptional restaurants.
Web Exclusive:
Short Black Coffee Sessions Check out our web exclusive interview with vegan food blogger Angie Palmer, a multi-talented foodie who is also a producer, model and actress. We talk about her gastronomy journey (as she was once an omnivore), as well as her latest movie production, superhero powers and her killer signature dish...
Exclusive Recipes This month we have an exclusive dessert recipe courtesy of Grassroots Pantry. The poached pears with cashew cream and maple caramel sauce is a guiltfree, indulgent dessert that also happens to be vegan and gluten-free!
Cooking Tips The piquant and pleasant notes of saffron are simply irreplaceable. Worth more than gold, it gives a luminous deep golden colour and earthy, warm flavours to dishes such as paella. Find more tips and facts about saffron online, as well as a few recipes featuring the vibrant, unique strands...
All this and more on www.afoodieworld.com
twitter.com/foodiehk // may 2013
Missed the last issue? Read it online
Daily Updated Foodie News Find out what’s happening in the dining scene and keep up to date with our daily news fare – new restaurant and bar openings, seasonal menu changes and special promotions!
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recipes
After noon tea Treat your guests to teatime treats that are as pretty as they are tasty photography Josephine Rozman food Luis Porras styling Grace Entry
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ORANGE ALMOND CAKE A pretty flower of a cake to add sweetness to your afternoon tea For 8 to 10 people Prep time: 20 minutes Baking time: 30 minutes Ingredients: For the cake: + 75g Japanese breadcrumbs + 300g sugar + 150g ground almonds + 6 eggs + zest of 1 orange + zest of 1 lemon + 1/3 cup Amaretto + 150g vegetable oil + 150g melted butter + 1 ½ tsp baking powder
For the syrup: + 75g sugar + juice of 1 orange + juice of 1 lemon Method: 1 In a large mixing bowl, using a hand blender, whip eggs with sugar until creamy white. 2 Add breadcrumbs, ground almonds, zests, Amaretto, oil, butter and baking powder. Mix well and pour into a 9-inch baking tin. 3 Place inside cold oven and turn heat to 160°C for 30 minutes or until golden brown and inserted toothpick comes out clean. 4 In a small saucepan place remaining sugar and juices, simmer until a thick syrup forms. 5 Place cake on serving platter and top with orange syrup.
Rose
Ingredients: + 225g plain flour + ½ tsp cream of tartar + 1 tsp baking powder + 1 pinch salt + 55g unsalted butter + 30g icing sugar + 150ml milk + 1 free-range egg, beaten, for the glaze (alternatively, use a little milk) Method: 1 Pre-heat oven to 180°C. Sift together the flour, cream of tartar, baking powder and salt. 2 Chop the butter into small pieces and rub it into the flour mixture so that it resembles breadcrumbs. 3 Create a well in the middle and add the milk. Mix together until it comes together to form a dough. 4 Turn out onto a floured board and roll out until 2cm high. Use cutters to cut out the scones, until all the dough has been used up. Lightly brush the tops of the scones with egg/milk. 5 Bake for 15 to 20 minutes.
CLASSIC SCONES No tea would be complete without this English staple Makes 6-8 Prep time: 10 minutes Baking time: 20 minutes
E n g l i s h b re a k f a s t Serve with English breakfast tea for a quintessential British touch.
www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
for the perfect floral accompaniment.
Classic Scones
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Cherry Tarts Long cake plate $2,480, Gien Heritage teacup $750, at Heather & March; yellow coffee pro saucer $38, at Loveramics
CHERRY TARTS These saucy fruit cups will have you lusting after their lip-smacking looks Makes 6 tarts Prep time: 1 hour Baking time: 20 minutes
Ingredients: + 500g plain flour + 250g cold unsalted butter + 4 tbsp honey + 1/3 cup cold milk + 500g cherries, pitted (can use frozen) + ½ cup sugar + 1 tsp cornflour + ½ lemon, juiced + 100g mascarpone Large non-stick muffin pan with 6 cups Method: For the pastry: 1 In a food processor, mix flour, adding chunks of cold butter, then honey, then cold milk, until a uniform ball forms. Take out and knead by hand 42
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until well mixed and it does not stick to your hands, adding more flour if necessary. Place in the fridge. In a medium saucepan, mix cherries, sugar, cornflour and lemon juice. Simmer until smooth and thick. Remove dough from fridge, roll into a thick cylinder and cut into 6 equal parts. Roll each piece into about a 6-in disc. This works best if you roll the dough between 2 pieces of greaseproof paper. Place each disc inside a muffin cup and press gently to form the tart crusts. Once all 6 crusts have been moulded, place a small piece of aluminium foil inside each crust, pressing gently to preserve the form. Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Once baked, remove the aluminium foil and the crusts from the pan, fill each with the cherry mixture and top with a spoonful of mascarpone.
Darjeeling
A sip of Darjeeling tea adds an exotic element to complement these tarty tarts.
recipes
Siena tablecloth $5,140, petits fours six-dish stand $4,380, Gien Teatime tea set $950, Raynaud teabag holder $630, at Heather & March
facebook.com/foodiehk // may 2013
Melting Moments
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recipes
Tea and Citrus Home-cured Salmon Gien Heritage dessert plate $280, at Heather & March; Weave cup and saucer $139, at Loveramics 44
recipes
MELTING MOMENTS
Prep time: 20 minutes Curing time: 2 days
These shortbread wonders will disappear in just one bite
Ingredients: + 300g whole salmon fillet, skinned + 90g sea salt + 30g caster sugar + 1 lemon, grated + 1 orange, grated + 1 lime, grated + 1 ½ tbsp oolong tea leaves + 1 juniper berry + 2 cloves + 4 white peppercorns + 3 dill sprigs + 3 parsley sprigs + 1 bay leaf + 100g ricotta cheese + salt and black pepper, to taste + multi-grain crackers + chopped dill, for garnish
Makes 12 Prep time: 20 minutes Baking time: 10–15 minutes Ingredients: + 125g unsalted butter, softened + 45g icing sugar + 1 vanilla pod + zest of 1 lemon + 115g plain flour + 50g cornflour
Filling: + 100g mascarpone + 3 tsp icing sugar + 1 tbsp lemon juice Method: 1 Pre-heat oven to 180°C. Beat the butter and icing sugar together until pale and creamy. Scrape out the seeds from the vanilla pod and add them to the mix, along with the lemon zest. Mix until well incorporated. 2 Sift in the plain flour and cornflour and gently mix with a wooden spoon. 3 Line 2 baking trays with baking paper or silicone mats. Use a piping bag to pipe out 24 hazelnut-sized biscuits. Leave some space between each biscuit. 4 Bake for 10–15 minutes, or until light golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on a wire rack. 5 Meanwhile, mix the mascarpone with the icing sugar and lemon juice. 6 Sandwich together the biscuits with the mascarpone mixture and serve immediately.
Earl Grey
Paired with Earl Grey, these biscuits are beautifully balanced.
Do-it-yourself curing makes for an impressive addition to your midday-munching agenda Serves 6 to 8
Oolong
The complexity of oolong sets off an ideal marriage of flavours with fish. MORE RECIPES ONLINE Finger Sandwich Trio Check out our webexclusive recipes, including this one, at www.afoodieworld.com
twitter.com/foodiehk // may 2013
TEA AND CITRUS HOME-CURED SALMON
Method: 1 Mix all the curing ingredients in a bowl. 2 Spread half the curing mix on a deep baking tray. Place the salmon fillet on top and cover with the remaining mix. Make sure the whole salmon is covered so that it cures evenly. 3 Firmly wrap the fish in clingfilm, weigh it down with another baking tray and refrigerate. After 24 hours, remove any excess liquid. Turn the fish over and repeat the process for another 24 hours. The flesh should feel firm and change to a darker orange hue after this period. 4 Rinse the fillet to remove any excess salt, sugar, spice or herbs. Pat it dry with paper towels and refrigerate for at least another 2 hours before using. 5 Thinly slice the fillet. Mix the ricotta with black pepper and salt. 6 Spread a thin layer of ricotta cheese over the multigrain crackers and place the cured salmon slices on top. Garnish with chopped dill.
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how to
how to... As any Brit will tell you, this is very easy to get wrong, yet so simple to get right. Here is the method for a decent cuppa in four easy steps.
STEP 1
STEP 2
Pre-warm your mug or teapot with hot water, then empty. Add teabag(s) or leaves to a pot or mug (1 tsp of tea leaves for each cup of water; 2 teabags for a 4-cup pot).
Boil the kettle with fresh water, then immediately pour over tea.
STEP 3
STEP 4
Stir the tea before leaving it to steep. Let stand for 5 minutes.
Stir again, then strain into cups or remove teabag(s).
For more How To tips, visit www.afoodieworld.com 46
foodiegrams Because a picture
foodiegrams
tor ino Ris Orto V
is worth a thousand calories
ante
Kisses chan_irene Mushroom tagliatelle
The Square
ronda_l Cupcakes
afoodieworld Ma lai go steamed cake
Cakeshop
Flames
Dandy's
ngwalace egg tarts
afoodieworld scallop & chicken salad
Zuma
afoodieworld Baikingu brunch
Calling all food-loving Instagrammers! Send us your best food ‘grams and we’ll print them right here. instagram@afoodieworld.com
www.afoodieworld.com // may 2013
ronda_l Charcoal chicken
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chin-easy food
Chin-easy food Foodie’s kitchen scientist Kelly Yau experiments making Western recipes with easy-to-find Chinese supermarket ingredients
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WONTON RAVIOLI Makes 20–30 ravioli Prep time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes
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Ingredients: + 500g spinach leaves, finely chopped + 300g field and Shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced + 10 cherry tomatoes, halved + 2 small cucumbers, sliced + 1/3 cup fresh parsley leaves + 1/3 cup fresh oregano leaves + extra-virgin olive oil + juice of 2 lemons + salt and black pepper to taste Method: 1 In a frying pan, heat olive oil, put in ½ the chopped garlic and fry until fragrant. Put in the mushrooms and fry for 3–5 minutes. Add all the spinach into the pan and stir until wilted. Season generously with salt and pepper. Allow the mixture to cool then wrap in a cloth and squeeze out any excess liquid. Crumble feta cheese into mixture. 2 Lay out one sheet of wonton wrapper and put 1 tsp of the mixture into the centre. Brush water on pastry around the filling. Lay another pastry on top and press down firmly around the filling. Cut away excess pastry. 3 In frying pan, heat olive oil and add remaining garlic and chopped onion. When golden, add cherry tomatoes until they begin to soften. Season with salt and pepper and pour in white wine. Boil mixture for 2–3 minutes. 4 In a tall pot, boil water with 1 tsp salt and oil. Add ravioli to the pot and boil for 3 minutes, or until they float to the top. 5 When cooked, gently take the ravioli out of the water and place into the sauce. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve.