Foodies of New England Fall 2012 by Foodies of New England

Complimentary ( For Now ;) )

Fall 2012

Diners The Nostalgic American Diner

Gluten-Free Fall Classics Farm to Table Supporting Local Economies Harvey’s Farm Growing Food For Local Chefs CSA’s Get Your Share

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Irresistable Hazelnut Taste Frangelico is a traditional hazelnut liqueur enjoyed neat, over ice, with coffee or in a wide variety of stylish cocktails. Try Frangelico for yourself and see why it’s the “Irresistable Hazelnut Taste”

Chocolate Frangelico Semifredo

Chef Enrico Giovanello - Avellino Restaurant, Sturbridge, MA 2 cups heavy cream 2/3 cups superﬁne sugar 1/3 cup cocoa powder 4 eggs, separated 1 cup Frangelico 3 tablespoons confectionary sugar 1 ¼ cups skinned hazelnuts, roughly chopped

Serves 10 Line a 6-cup loaf pan with aluminum foil. Heat ¾ cup heavy cream in a small sauce pan. Combine the superﬁne sugar, cocoa and egg yolks in a bowl. Pour the hot cream on top and mix well. Pour back in the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring continuously until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not allow the custard to boil. Stir in the Frangelico and remove from heat. Cover the surface with plastic wrap and allow to cool for ½ hour. Whip the egg whites in a clean dry glass bowl until stiff peaks form. Whip the remaining cream in in a large bowl until soft peaks form. Add the confectionary sugar and continue whipping until incorporated. Lightly fold the chocolate custard into the whipped cream. Now fold in the egg whites. Now fold in the hazelnuts. Spoon into the pan, smooth the surface and cover with foil. Freeze overnight. Leave at room temperature for 5 minutes before serving in slices.

Visit us at: www.frangelico.com or Like us on Facebook at: facebook.com/Frangelico

Serving Memories Since 1946

Remember the time when things were simpler? When you walk into Harry’s Restaurant, you’ll feel like you did growing up, walking into mom’s kitchen as the smells of home-cooked meals lingered in the air. Our friendly staff will make you feel right at home with our exceptional service and gracious hospitality as they serve up the best in breakfasts, lunches and dinners. From delicious fried clams and onion rings, to lobster rolls, soups and salads, there’s something for everyone. We even have low carb menu options for diabetics. Harry’s Restaurant - Great food, just like it used to be.

149 Turnpike Road Westborough, MA 01581 508-366-8302 www.harrysrestaurant.com

redpassion Bold, passionate and completely unique, Campari makes a dry and refreshing cocktail that can be enjoyed anytime. Hand-crafted according to the same secret family recipe invented in Italy in 1860, Campari is a one-of-a-kind, refreshing spirit.

Feel the passion. WATERMELON CAMPARI GRANITA Chef Enrico Giovanello Avellino Restaurant, Sturbridge, MA

1 lb. rind and seeds removed 2 tablespoons superﬁne sugar 4 tablespoons Campari ½ teaspoon lime juice Serves 4 Puree the watermelon in a blender or food processor. Heat the sugar, lime juice and Campari in ¼ cup water in a saucepan until dissolved. Add the watermelon and mix well. Pour into a plastic container, cover and freeze. Stir every 30 minutes with a fork during freezing to break up the ice crystals and give a better texture. Keep in the freezer until ready to serve. Serve in a martini glass with fresh mint.

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Visit us at: www.campari.com Like us on Facebook at: facebook.com/campari

Fall 2012 Contributors Publisher: Mercury Media & Entertainment, LLC Managing Editor: Domenic Mercurio Contributing Editors: Julie Grady Jodie Lynn Boduch Mariel Kennison Christopher Dufault Director of Social Media: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Writers and Contributors: Matt Webster, Alina Eisenhauer, Ellen Allard, Richard Beams, Elaine Pusateri Cowan, Jodie Lynn Boduch, Peggy Bridges, Ryan Maloney, Christina Whipple, Sandy Lashin-Curewitz, Michelle Collins, David Kmetz, John Lawrence, Brad Schwarzenbach, Mariel Kennison, Stacy Horowitz Professional Photography: Scott Erb & Donna Dufault Erb Photography Art Director: Rick Bridges Richard Bridges Design Website: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Mobile App Developer: Dawn Lang Account Managers: Carol Adlestein, Linda Goodbrand Foodies of New England Magazine Box 380 Sturbridge MA 01566 domenic@mercurymediallc.com scott@erbphoto.com jodie@muchadomarketing.com rick@richardbridgesdesign.com All content ÂŠ2012, Mercury Media Entertainment All Rights Reserved Printed in USA Foodies of New England assumes no ďŹ nancial responsibility for errors in advertisements. No portion of Foodies of New England, advertising or editorial, may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written permission of the publisher. The information contained in this publication is believed to be accurate, however the publisher does not guarantee its accuracy. The opinions expressed by others within this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher or its employees. By accepting advertising neither Foodies of New England nor Mercury Media Entertainment is endorsing or guaranteeing the quality of service or products within those advertisements. Every effort is made to ensure that the advertisements come from reputable companies, however we cannot take responsibility for how an advertiser deals with the public.

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Frenchy French - Baked French Toast from Main Street Grille

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Contents Features

14 The Great American Diner Breakfast, Lunch or a Late-night Food Fix

48 Paris Inspired Pastries Crown Bakery

56 Harvey’s Farm It Runs in the Family

68 Farm to Table Supporting Local Economies

The Boston Brunchers Social Two Ways

92 MASS Innovation Nights Foodies Product Launch & Networking Event

108 Bee’s A Sense of Terroir, Not Terror

Cover: Golden Lamb Buttery

Foodies of New England

108

Departments

52 History of...

Nutmeg - Spicy, Richly Flavored, and Aromatic

64 Gluten Free Fall Classics

80 Food for Thought Community Supported Agriculture

94 Sweet Sensations Apple Crisp

96 Brew Review Belgian & French Ales

100 Healthy at Home Gnocchi de Semolina

112 Whiskey-Under Loch & Key Cask to Glass

116

100

Wines of Distinction Wines Inspired by the Gods

120 Something to Drink Knobbinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for Apples

112 Foodies of New England

Choose from Five Great Massachusetts & Rhode Island Expos Show times 11 a.m. - 3:30 p.m.

Newton, MA

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November 4, 2012 Twin River Casino Event Center

Burlington, MA

Exhibiting ities Opportun Available!

November 18, 2012 Boston Marriot Burlington

Marlborough, MA

February 17, 2013 Best Western Royal Plaza Trade Center

Lincoln, RI

April 7, 2013 Twin River Casino Event Center Discount tickets at originalweddingexpo.com Produced by

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“Is It Any Wonder He’s Ranked #9 in America?”

Coming Soon… Wilson’s Latest and Greatest Culinary Feat:

KOZARA at 301 Park Avenue in Worcester Visit the Baba Sushi website for details Scan with your Smartphone to visit our website

Baba Sushi 309 Park Ave. Worcester, MA 01609 508-752-8822 www.babasushi.com

Foodies of New England

LETTER

FROM THE

EDITOR

Autumn...A Fantasy-Filled Fun-Fest for Foodies! Welcome to the Fall issue of Foodies of New England. Within these pages, foodies will ﬁnd the most palate-pleasing, heart-warming, healthy and all-around delicious food to grace the landscape that is New England. Not to mention our themes for this issue, including a nostalgic and mouth-watering review of The Great American Diner. Look for feature stories on Lou Roc’s Diner in Worcester, the Liberty Elm Diner in Providence, Lunenburg’s Ugly Omelet, Harry’s Diner in Westborough, the pride of Manchester, New Hampshire – the Red Arrow Diner, The Chelsea Royal Diner in Brattleboro, Vermont, and Connecticut’s Main Street Café situated in beautiful Putnam.

Crisp, cool weather and soft, warm food. What could be better? The only thing that can enhance the culinary delights in New England is a guide that leads you right to them!

While you’re here, take a look into the revival of the Farm-to-Table concept, and how it supports local economies. Great New England examples include Loie Fuller’s in Providence, Hope & Olive in Greenﬁeld, Mass, and Connecticut’s Golden Lamb Buttery in Brooklyn. Farms are the key to this revival, so we’ve featured one of the most delightful ones in the northeast, Harvey’s Farm in Westborough. Of course, with all of the incredible recipes that grace this issue, you’ll want to tear out the pages and paste them on your kitchen walls! Not necessary…just download our new Foodies Mobile App and you can access all of our recipes by category and review our regular departments, such as Jodie Boduch’s The History of… Nutmeg, Ellen Allard’s Gluten-free Fall Favorites, Peg Bridges’ Food for Thought, Food Network diva Alina Eisenhauer’s Sweet Sensations, The Brew Review, written by our Grand Chancellor of Beer, Matt Webster, get step-by-step-prep with Elaine Pusatieri-Cowan in her Healthy at Home feature, Whiskey…Under Loch & Key, written by world-renowned whiskey expert, Ryan Maloney, a look at organic viticulture in Wines of Distinction, and our own Rich Beams’ tantalizing, Something to Drink feature, showcasing incredibly liberating libations! Fall in New England wouldn’t be complete without a tour of gastronomic greatness, so join Jodie Boduch and the Boston Brunchers as they make their way through the Best of Boston. Next, step into our bee hive…yes, you heard it right, bees are an integral part of nature’s landscape, and they provide us with the most organic and delicious sweetener available — honey. Check out “Bees: A Sense of Terroir, Not Terror” by chef and bee-keeper, John Lawrence. And you won’t believe Peg Bridges’ feature on CSAs, or Community Supported Agriculture. These programs allow consumers to purchase a “share” of a local farmer’s crop at the start of the growing season, entitling members to come to the farm each week and pick up their “share” of the farmer’s harvest. (Continued on page 12)

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COMING SOON! Subscriptions Tired of missing out on the latest issue of Foodies of New England? You won’t have to when you subscribe and have Foodies of New England delivered right to your door! Each and every issue is packed with informative articles, delicious easy-to-make recipes and of course award-winning photography! Check out our website for details and Bon Appetit! www.foodiesofnewengland.com

(Continued from page 10)

But Foodies of New England is not only a resource for recipes, cutting-edge food trends and culinary history: it’s also your best source for the latest-and-greatest, up-and-coming, I-didn’t-even-think-they-coulddo-that, hippest happenings in the fun, fantasy-ﬁlled world of food! The location for just such an experience was Mass Innovation Nights’ new food-related product launch party at TradeCenter 128 in Woburn, Massachusetts. This year, you won’t believe… Well, you can read about it inside...

Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Editor/Publisher

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\ȣɴ ɬǸȨɜ ɤȽɜȨȵ ɜȣȐ ɬȐȐȰȐȽȇѵ

Rovezzi’s has always been known as the ultimate in ﬁne Italian dining, but many may not know about our affordable mid-week lunches. With our comfortable atmosphere and personal attention, Rovezzi’s is the perfect meeting place for a casual dinner or that important business meeting. If you don’t see exactly what you’re craving on the menu, just ask our chef to customize a dish to satisfy your appetite. Rovezzi’s Restorante - “Buon Appetito Miei Amici”

Located at the corner of Rt. 20 and School Street Sturbridge, MA • 508-347-0100 www.rovezzis.com Foodies of New England

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The

Great American Diner Written by Domenic D. Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

The Diner. Many know it as “The Greasy Spoon.” What makes it such an interesting place to go? Whether we live in bustling metropolises or quiet rural farmlands, Americans flock to these cramped, mid-century fast-food boxcars in search of their breakfast, lunch, or late-night food fix. So, why has the diner become such an important element of the American culinary landscape, and is it the genesis of the super-famous, quick-eats establishments that dot our highways and side roads? To begin with, let’s be sure we’re clear on exactly what a diner is. Merriam-Webster defines a diner as follows: 2 chiefly US: a small, informal, and inexpensive restaurant that looks like a railroad car -a roadside diner

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A railroad car? Why would Americans be attracted to food served in a railroad car? Well, according to the American Diner Museum, it all started in the 1800s with a man named Walter Scott, who was a part-time pressman in Providence, RI. Around 1858, when Scott was 17 years old, he supplemented his income by selling sandwiches and coffee from a basket to newspaper workers and patrons of men’s club rooms. Evidently, business was so good that he was able to quit his printing gig and devote himself solely to the sandwich business. Around 1872, he set up a covered horse-drawn wagon outside the Providence Journal newspaper office. Unwittingly, Scott created the beginnings of the American icon known as the dining car, or diner. Over the ensuing years, some entrepreneurs embarked on the development of more refined versions of the covered food wagon. These newer versions were wagons, but they were larger and allowed patrons to take a respite from the night air and inclement weather. These “Night Owls” began to appear in communities throughout New England, offering basic and inexpensive food choices to hungry passers-by after traditional restaurants had closed for the evening. As a business model, Night Owls (or lunch wagons) had become popular, and many New England communities began to experience the coming and going of these temporary hunger relievers. Local governmental bodies limited hours of operation for Night Owls and strictly enforced them. To get around this obstacle, the Night Owl operators found communities where business was good enough to plant roots and stay put, and so they did, establishing semi-permanent locations and maintaining a stationary position as more of a fixture, or building. In the later part of the 1800s, the more up-to-date vendors began installing electricity into their cars and outfitting them with furnishings, glass windows, and decorative woodwork. In the wake of this advancement, the older lunch wagons fell by the wayside and were very inexpensively converted by vendors into usable structures, but they only attracted the less-appreciated members of the community. The electrified, more modern cars prevailed. This was the next phase in the visual transformation of the lunch wagon into the diner car. In order to attract more business, especially from women who were fast becoming more influential (having won the right to vote in 1920), vendors updated their cars and decorated the exteriors to appear more like traditional buildings. According to the American Diner Museum, booths were added, shrubs and flowers were planted, and the word “Miss” was included in the title of many diners to feminize the establishments, making them more appealing to women.

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Eggs, fresh baked ham and sweet potato homefries from Main Street Grille

One such manufacturer that had an appealing look was the Worcester Lunch Car Company, which constructed over 600 diner cars between 1906 and 1957, including Lamy’s Diner at the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, Michigan, the Liberty Elm Diner in Providence (featured in this issue), the South Street Diner down the block from South Station in Boston, the Rosebud Diner on Summer Street in Somerville, and, of course, the Miss Worcester Diner located right across the street from the original manufacturing plant in Worcester, MA. The Worcester Lunch Car Company went out of business in 1957, and its assets were auctioned in 1961. Known for their porcelain enamel panels with the name along the side, barrel and monitor roofs, and ornate tile and woodwork inside, Worcester Lunch Car diners were very well-made and a popular choice of diner merchants. But it wasn’t until the middle of the 20th Century, about 1948, that the diner started to take on a modern, space-age appearance. After World War II, diner manufacturers began to use materials that were, up to that point, created mostly for the defense industry. After the war, however, these materials were no longer prioritized for governmental use, so manufacturers were able to use them in their production of the diner car. With the onset of commercial jet aircraft and America’s space program, diners were built using materials such as Formica and stainless steel to reﬂect the nation’s latest and greatest accomplishments and attract patrons with shiny exteriors, neon signs, and brightly-colored interiors. Then, the unthinkable happened: McDonald’s emerged on the scene and paved the road for others like it. T h e American diner was in trouble. Now, patrons would have their cake and eat it, too; they could drive up to a window, place their order, and take it with them to eat on the run or somewhere more comfortable. Moreover, these fast-food restaurants even looked more like what Americans were used to – their homes. They were clad with mansard shingled roofs, had brick exteriors, and were modeled after popular English Tudor and Mediterranean architecture. And if that wasn’t enough, there was tasty food at a price patrons could not ignore. But now, like most fashion trends, diners have come back into vogue. The WWII generation has been immortalized on the silver screen by actors like Marlon Brando, Marilyn Monroe, Elvis Presley, and James Dean, and they are still looked up to by present day Americans. Now, more than ever, one of the most nostalgic, affordable, and convenient places for foodies to gather and reminisce, is the Great American Diner. -Editor. Foodies of New England

Irish Burger - Corned beef, Irish bacon, Swiss cheese & cole slaw on a burger with grilled Texas bread

Foodies of New England

The More Things Change, the More They Stay the Same... at

HARRY’S restaurant Written by Brad Shwartzenbach Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Remember the bygone age of raspberry lime rickeys and pot roast? It may not be as far away as you think. Harry’s Restaurant in Westborough has been open since 1946 and creates the feeling of being back in mom’s kitchen after a long day playing outside.

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As Owner Jon Cohen puts it, “[Harry’s] “gives you the memories. It’s right on the menu. Our customers come to us and see their own childhood.” On the surface, it adheres to a traditional American diner aesthetic both on the menu and even in the décor—wood paneling on the walls accent the dark brown vinyl booth benches and stainless steel swivel stools at the counter. Even the staff echoes that era, telling you to sit anywhere you like and spending more time talking about the weather and your weekend rather than the specials. But it’s a mistake to peg Harry’s as a place that’s stuck in the past, or to visit it simply for its retro charm. Harry’s Restaurant is always evolving and responding to changing palates and trends. Sure, they do a little bit of everything, but they insist on doing it well. The lobster roll is ﬁlled with meat and comes with a generous side of handbattered onion rings. “More lobster than roll,” a waitress knowingly said. And the recently popular macaroni and cheese specials reﬂect Harry’s attentiveness to current culinary trends. Of course they have their slightly aging, but die-hard crowd, still the new generations never stop coming in and they’re more and more diverse. Harry’s is a landmark embraced by young and old alike because they are unwilling to just rely on old standbys, but the one constant is a home-cooked meal. And, just like Mom, they’re usually amenable to your special requests. “The younger kids aren’t into the fried stuff as much—diets these days don’t go for it, but they like spicier foods that the older folks aren’t into,” said Cohen, who is also the son of founder Harry Cohen. “So, we need to respond to that.” And they have. In addition to new favorites, such as the craft—not Kraft—

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macaroni and cheese dishes, the evolutionary menu includes Brazilian- and Mexican-inﬂuenced dishes. They’ve even made room for fresh fruit smoothies. With an ever-changing menu, making a decision can be daunting. It’s long. None of the staff is exactly sure how many items are on it because it’s continuously growing. “We’re always trying things. We have to,” stated Cohen. “But we have that freedom, so we just try it out.” While the dining area may seem outdated, the small kitchen is an ode to organization and experimentation. “Our cooks need to be able to let themselves go. They need to use what’s new,” Cohen afﬁrmed. “I’ll buy some pistachio and challenge them to try something. I’ll bring in what they don’t expect: hangar steak, octopus. It needs to be a challenge.” And in a shaky economy, experiments can be costly. “My kitchen manager will say he’s trying to cut costs, but we always need to be a test kitchen. You have to constantly cook something new, constantly play with food.” Even as new favorites arrive, old standbys need to remain in order to meet the expectations of Harry’s long-time fans. “We listen to our customers and try to make everyone happy,” Cohen said. “A lot of people think a restaurant is oneway, but when you get that smile from the customer, well that works for us, too.” Simply listening to the customer may be an antiquated way to build a restaurant, but with 66 years of operation, Harry’s knows what it’s doing. Harry’s Restaurant 149 Turnpike Road Westborough, MA 01581 508-366-8302 www.harrysrestaurant.com

Mountain of Meatloaf

Mile High Club

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Lick Your Lips,

it’s local Written by Mariel Kennison Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

We can all agree that as tasty as it is, diner food is notoriously not very good for you. But it’s unfussy and the atmosphere is casual and homey. What if you could have the best of both worlds: delicious diner food without the artery-clogging regret later? Enter Chelsea Royal Diner in Brattleboro, Vermont where the forces of good have apparently triumphed over evil. Where real, own-grown, honest-to-goodness food is served up, diner-style, and it couldn’t be fresher or more local. As a proud part of the Vermont Fresh Network, the Chelsea is dedicated to buying a certain percentage of their produce locally,

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everything from meat and cheese to maple syrup. They have taken the local movement to another level by starting their own garden and raising some livestock. After all, what’s more local than your own backyard? Over the past ﬁve years the diner has been cultivating an abundance of herbs and vegetables (from garlic to leeks), keeping chickens for meat and eggs, and raising their own pigs and turkeys. When you order an omelet at the Chelsea, the majority of ingredients have just come in from the backyard. (Continued on page 25)

Grilled Salmon Salad

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Owner Todd Darrah

Foodies of New England

(Continued from page 22)

It wasn’t always this way, though. The diner, started by Todd Darrah 22 years ago, saw many different food movements come and go as local eating habits evolved. At one time the unofﬁcial motto could have been “fast and cheap,” like many diners were and continue to be. It would be hard to believe that of the Chelsea now, especially when you hear that they make their own ice cream, too. The idea of eating “local fare” tends to be a fad and passing craze in many places these days, but the Chelsea Royal Diner owners see this as a way of life that is here to stay. Co-owner, artist-in-residence, and ice cream connoisseur Janet Picard says it’s hard not to use local ingredients—“Our farmers are our neighbors!”—and why wouldn’t you want to go local when you can make potatoes au gratin with real Vermont cheddar or lean, mean, and “wicked tasty” burgers from grass-fed bison? You’d be crazy not to. Good food, of course, is a huge aspect of any restaurant, but with diners the atmosphere must also ﬂaunt that classic

representation of American culture; nothing fancy, but meeting a certain standard we’re all looking for. The Chelsea Royal Diner has the quality comfort-food any good foodie craves: some modern takes on the classics and healthier alternatives, and—wait for it—an exterior made of a real 1938 Worcester diner car. Thanks to a loyal, long-standing team of staff members, the Chelsea thrives doing what it loves: feeding tourists and locals alike with some of the freshest home-style cooking in New England. Whether you’re looking for diner food, homemade ice cream, or a picnic table in the apple orchard, the Chelsea Royal Diner is proud to say, “There’s gotta be something you’ll love!” Chelsea Royal Diner 487 Marlboro Road Brattleboro, VT 05303 802-254-8399 www.chelsearoyaldiner.com

Char-grilled Grass fed Rib Eye Steak

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BBQ Bacon Burger with Provolone Cheese

Foodies of New England

Written by Michelle Collins Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

It’s rebellious to order a cheeseburger with no cheese. But at The Ugly Omelet, they won’t judge you. Under new management since 2009, The Ugly Omelet in Lunenburg, MA took diner food to a new level, striving to bring quality food, affordable prices, and an “open menu” policy to the proverbial table. Foodies of New England

Commenting on the level of culinary creativity, Seth Silver, owner and chef of The Ugly Omelet, pointed out that they work hard to introduce new and unusual items to their customers. Silver took over this breakfast and lunch spot three years ago and has grown it to the popular eatery it is today. Silver also highlighted the Ugly Omelet’s recent growth, pointing out that he’s been seeing many new hungry faces, and has had to add staff and increase the size of their restaurant to accommodate the influx of more foodies. Although the restaurant has its fair share of new customers, Silver admits that there are quite a few regulars. The returning customers could be a result of the high-quality ingredients (think thick-cut applewood-smoked bacon). It could also be due to the fact that customers can walk in and order whatever they feel like eating on that particular day. The Ugly Omelet offers their customers an “open menu” – meaning, as long as they have the ingredients in their kitchen, they’ll make you whatever you’d like to eat. “It’s something different,” Silver said. The open option is listed on the restaurant’s menu as “Grandma’s Kitchen,” with the motto: “What happens at The Ugly Omelet stays at The Ugly Omelet.” The Ugly Omelet’s menu also includes the standard diner fare, including steak and eggs, pancakes, ½-lb. Extraordinary Burgers, and The Ugly Omelet itself, made with bacon, sausage, scallions, peppers, onions, mushrooms and your choice of cheese, served with home fries and toast. For the daring diners, there is also The Challenge: four eggs, four slices of bacon, and four sausages layered between four large pancakes. Silver himself has yet to try The Challenge – only about one out of 10 customers can usually finish it. The most recent person to finish The Challenge completed it in five minutes – shattering the previous 19-minute record. “It was pretty insane,” Silver said. Regardless of what inventive or classic diner dishes The Ugly Omelet is whipping up, one thing is for sure: something’s working. The current 28-seat restaurant is in the early stages of looking into moving into a 50-seat space. Between the quality food, affordable prices, and flexible menu, The Ugly Omelet’s success is really not that surprising. In fact, it’s the first place we’ve reviewed that actually made ugly, well… beautiful! The Ugly Omelet 165 Mass Ave. Lunenburg, MA 01462 978-353-8696 www.theuglyomelet.com

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Pancake: Pink Lady Apples, Cabot Seriously Sharp Cheddar Cheese and Jalapenos

Owner Seth Silver

Spinach Wrap with Applewood Smoked Bacon

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2 eggs,2 crab cakes on an English mufďŹ n topped with hollandaise sauce

Foodies of New England

All Signs Point to the

Red Arrow Written by Sandy Lashin-Curewitz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

The Red Arrow Diner is small. It sits on a downtown Manchester, NH side street. The metal-framed glass doors are narrower than probably any other doorway you’re likely to encounter in 2012.

After climbing a couple of stairs, the red and white counter and chrome stools come into view, the blue and white booths are full and bustling. But, more than likely, you’ll stop short at the very end of a line the length of the entire diner.

Opening in 1922, the Red Arrow seats a mere 36 people at a time. And, according to owner Carol Sheehan, the diner averages 700 patrons in one 24-hour day, with the wait time from order to feast only 10 to 12 minutes on a busy day—surely a feat due to the expert collaboration of quick, efﬁcient service and cooking.

My husband, daughter and I all arrived at the end of that very line. Under the glow of hanging lamps and neon lights, I became nervous. I wasn’t sure how I was going to contain my impatient husband and my hungry four-year-old for an indeterminate length of time. (Continued on page 33)

Foodies of New England

Todd Harrington and Denise Catanzano

The Red Arrow draws the hungry and the curious from all walks of life and from all over the country.

Foodies of New England

(Continued from page 31)

Sheehan urged, “Don’t turn away. The line moves fast.” And, just like at Disney, repeat visitors know the experience is worth the wait. So, will it be the counter or a booth? According to Sheehan, kids love the counter. “It’s kind of like a show,” she said. The show’s stage is set with framed photos of famous visitors, rave reviews, memorabilia and the smiling faces of Moe and Dinah Java—the diner’s classic coffee cup-shaped mascots. Scenes of plates brimming with fresh food, animated banter of longtime wait staff and the clanging bell that welcomes ﬁrsttime visitors (otherwise known as “Red Arrow virgins”) are just a few pieces of the show you might catch at the counter.

rice soup or a salad for a starter; for a side, ask for cottage cheese, applesauce or the veggie of the day. And all the produce comes from The Fruit Center right in Manchester, a family-owned wholesale produce company that supports local growers. We packed our table with a mug of the Red Arrow’s awardwinning chili (chunky and sweet), a basket of chicken wings (deep-fried and battered), a bison burger with sweet potato fries, a tall tuna club on sourdough toast, mashed potatoes like my Grammy used to make and a chocolate chip Mickey Mouse-shaped pancake with bacon. I had to have a cup of coffee (no complaints) and I equally had to try a New Hampshire’s own Squamscot Old-Fashioned Root Beer (crisp and tasty). But it doesn’t end there. Dessert devotees should surrender to their inner nature. As a member of those ranks myself, I was seduced by the giant, luscious Ranier cherry éclair. The Red Arrow is famous for its crème-stuffed, ﬂaky éclair, which is usually available in several ﬂavors. Dinah Fingers are another favorite. It’s a homemade twist on the one dessert that will outlive us all: the Twinkie. The diner has so many unique and freshly made treats, you may as well bring a cooler so you can stock up at home.

In spite of the allure, we opted to wait for a booth and when it was our turn, I felt like we won the lottery. Not only did we get a seat, but it was the very booth where famous patrons Hillary Clinton, and Bare Naked Ladies had dined. You may feel similarly flush when you open the diner’s bountiful menu. In the words of American diner curator Richard Gutman, “Should I have breakfast or lunch?” And the Red Arrow adds dinner to that “classic diner conundrum.” Having all three meals to choose from in the entertaining, retro, turquoise and pink menu, complete with kidney-shaped, full-color photos of fried eggs, Belgian waffles, burgers and fries, and franks and beans, increased my routinely slow decision-making time by at least 60%. So what is a foodie family to eat at a diner—haven to butter, deep-frying, and a mother lode of carbohydrates? Relax. Families used to deciphering labels at the supermarket will have little trouble finding good choices and the responsive wait staff and cooks are used to special requests. Everything is made to order from scratch and many options, like Pork Pie, are from Sheehan’s own family recipes. To navigate toward healthier selections, ask for egg whites or oatmeal; try turkey, garden or bison burgers; taste the “real” turkey sandwich or grilled haddock; consider chicken

Open 24-7-365, the Red Arrow draws the hungry and the curious from all walks of life and from all over the country, all while remaining a focal point of the local community. “We always do things to make it a fun, quirky place to come into,” said Sheehan. So on your next visit to the surprisingly charming Manchester, catch a piece of Sheehan’s Americana at the Red Arrow Diner. Perhaps you’ll sneak a celebrity sighting or catch Sheehan herself at the counter enjoying one of her favorite dishes—grits with cheese or liver and onions. Red Arrow Diner 61 Lowell Street Manchester, NH 03101 603-626-1118 www.redarrowdiner.com

Foodies of New England

The

Evolution of the

DINER

Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

A diner is a free-standing, small building or dining car with counter service, several booths, and a short order cook who prepares classic breakfast fare. Or is it? Main Street Grille in Putnam, CT challenges that assumption in terms of both appearance and menu selection. Owned by Kim and David Brotzman since 2007, the restaurant sits in the corner of a historic brick building in the center of town. Originally one room with a service counter, bar stools, and a few tables, the diner has since expanded to include an additional two rooms. In fact, the expansion space used to be an insurance place—something that still caused some confusion until a recent signage update. It’s cozy…but as a whole, it doesn’t look like a conventional diner.

Foodies of New England

Combo Arnold with proscuitto, fresh spinach and tomato

Foodies of New England

And the menu items are typical diner options with a creative twist—and an emphasis on “homemade” and “fresh,” as David travels to Providence 2-3 times a week to buy many of the ingredients used regularly. There’s the corned beef hash (more about that later), potato pancakes, quiche, crepes, and one-of-a-kind sweet potato homefries. The French toast is a case study in decadence, given the use of pressed croissant bread. The Brotzmans are very enthusiastic about their daily specials. “Foodies come in just for the creative specials,” says Kim. “I always have something ‘new’…That is what I love about my job!” So if Main Street Grille doesn’t look like a traditional diner and offers variations of the standards, it raises the question: What makes a diner…a diner? David explains that there are several distinctions between a diner and, say, a family restaurant. Diners generally serve breakfast all day, every day (which Main Street Grille does), whereas family restaurants tend to focus on dinners and children’s menus. “Diners are usually associated with counters with stools, blue-plate specials, comfort food and the first question usually asked of a guest is, ‘Would you like some coffee?’” he says, adding that the affordable meals at Main Street Grille, which also serves lunch and dinner on some days, appeal to patrons of every culinary persuasion. A little more about that affordable, appealing menu: the items of which the Brotzmans are most proud are their signature corned beef hash (a laborious process with a succulent result) and their fresh-as-a-be fish. Also among their own favorite selections: Kim raves about David’s cupcakes (with fun frosting concoctions like “mashed potato and gravy”) and David sings the praises of Kim’s French pork pie as well as her scalloped potato pie with corned beef hash a la mode. (Phew! That’s a—pardon the pun—mouthful.) Although this is their first time owning a restaurant, the Brotzmans have many years of food-industry experience between them—but perhaps not in the most traditional sense. One of Kim’s first jobs was as a lobster cook at Abbott’s in Noank, CT, and she also helped cater the construction of the Killingly power plant. She’s also had night club management and waitressing gigs (to this day she has a customer from 30 years ago who is a frequent patron). And if you’re local and happen to remember a bikini-clad “hot dog girl” in Putnam—well, that was Kim, too. As for David, he owned and operated D&K Produce, which provided dry goods, produce, and other food to over 30 local restaurants and private clubs. Owning a restaurant, though, is something special. “I have always had an entrepreneurial spirit,” David says, “and I love this type of restaurant because it is very personal. It is so

Foodies of New England

much more than just serving great food to customers. Our customers are our friends that we have daily or weekly encounters with and know most of them by name.” When asked what challenges they face as restaurant owners, the Brotzmans respond with an answer familiar to many business owners: striking a balance between personal and professional life. The demands range from people skills to business skills (Kim’s degree in ﬁnance comes in handy here) to creativity—not to mention understanding, patience, and perseverance. Attention to detail is key. The Brotzmans bring a genuine passion to their business, and to see how much they love what they do is nothing short of inspiring. When asked where they hope Main Street Grille will be in 5 years, David had this uplifting reply: continuing to provide quality meals to our regulars and new friends and becoming a destination for both locals and tourist as Putnam continues to ﬂourish. And, implicitly, showing New England foodies that the diner has very much evolved. Main Street Grille 172 Main Street Putnam, CT 06260 860-928-3336 www.mainstgrilleputnam.com

Fruity Crepes: Filled with fresh peaches, strawberries and bananas

David and Kim Brotzman

Foodies of New England

FILO stuffed with French toast, cinnamon sugar and fresh strawberries

Foodies of New England

Diner Dash – The Revival of the American Diner at

Lou Roc’s Written by Julie Grady Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Breakfast. It’s the most important meal of the day. It gets your metabolism going after a long night dipping in and out of the REM cycle. And depending on the day, it helps some of us get over that hangover. The perfect cure being the diner. But it’s not just for late night bites and heavy breakfasts anymore. Just ask Pete Prodromidis, owner and chef at Worcester’s Lou Roc’s Diner.

Foodies of New England

“The quality of the food is fantastic,” he boasted. “In this business, you have to evolve and we’ve evolved along with current food trends.”

Photographs of the diner (pre-bricks) proudly adorn the walls, most of the original car is in tact and of course the name still stands as an homage to history.

But business reaches beyond just the scope of food. For Prodromidis, it’s in keeping the customer happy, which often means getting a little creative.

Presently, the diner has an addition in the front to help handle the astronomical amount of clientele.

With a regular menu including about 50 breakfast and lunch items, Prodromidis let’s inspiration take over when it comes to the specials, which are fresh and new every weekend. “Most of the breakfast specials, you’ve probably never heard of; I come up with them on my own.” From the phyllo French toast with strawberries (essentially breakfast baklava) to the seacoast omelet (which is comprised of grilled shrimp, scallops, broccoli, cheese and topped with a lobster bisque), Prodromidis is inspired and it’s working. Lou Roc’s Diner has won Worcester Magazine’s “Best Of” award the last two years for the best breakfast in town; it was mentioned in Worcester Living magazine; and it was featured on Fox News in 2009 during the “Wednesday Morning Diner” segment. Still, the recipe for success is simple: be passionate. Coming from a family heavily invested in the restaurant business, seasoned restaurateur Prodromidis bought the diner in 2001 after it had been closed down.

“It’s quieter out front [in the addition], but it’s a fun atmosphere,” Prodromidis chortled. “It’s all family friendly, but there’s a lot of banter going on, lots of talking.” Still not sold on the diner revival? The food is fresh and it’s fast, but it’s not fast food. “Everything I can, I make from scratch: hamburgers, meatloaf, corned beef hash, New England clam chowder, gravy, sautés—nothing is frozen, including our fresh seafood Fridays.” Every Friday at Lou Roc’s is a feast of fresh seafood, from scallops, clam strips and haddock. There are even lobster rolls, so you can leave the bibs at home. The quality of such fast, fresh food is fantastic and the prices are fair; lunch for two cashes in under $20. “We may not be the cheapest in town, but the prices are fair considering food costs have risen tremendously,” said Prodromidis. “We like to work with volume, so the portions are a very good size and no one will leave hungry.”

“I am absolutely doing what I love. I love being here and I enjoy making people happy,” he said. “When someone comes back and says, ‘That’s the best breakfast I’ve ever had,’ that’s it. They’re so happy about what you prepared for them, that it makes your day. That’s the best thing about it.”

Worcester is the birthplace of the modern-day diner and thanks to Prodromidis it has evolved. “We have to adapt to the food trends and take care of our customers. It’s not just about fried eggs anymore.” So vegetarians and vegans fear not. There’s a lush meat-free menu to suit your needs.

But before he actually could get in the kitchen, he had to remodel it.

And it’s that same dedication to his passion and his customers that gets Prodromidis out of bed in the morning—at 4am.

According to Prodromidis, Lou Roc’s Diner began in the 1950s as a venture between two brothers Louie and Rocky and back then, it was a state of the art dinning car. The car still exists, but upon purchase of the property, he learned the previous owners built a brick building around it.

“I have to be ready and in to do the prep in the morning for breakfast,” he said. “It still makes for a 12-hour day, but even when I take the morning off I can only sleep in until 6:30am.”

“I have no idea why,” he admitted. “All I know is that it was closed three to four years before I bought it and I wanted classic Americana. So, there was a lot of cleaning and a lot of refurbishing.”

Foodies of New England

So just remember when you walk into Lou Roc’s Diner an empty stomach sans coffee, Pete Prodromidis has been up at least two hours earlier than you. Lou Rocs 1074 West Boylston Street Worcester, MA 01606 508-852-6888

Peter Prodromidis and Jodi Brennan

Grilled chicken salad with fresh mozzarella and strawberry vinaigrette

Foodies of New England

Grilled Cheese, Parasols and Totally Diner Written by Christine Whipple Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Growing up in a New England blue-collar family, we ate in many diners. The Liberty Elm Diner is like walking back in timeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;but without the grease. I almost expected to see my father and grandfather at the doorâ&#x20AC;Ś 42

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Buttermilk Pancakes with Fresh Hill Farm Peaches and Blueberries

Foodies of New England

Diane “Tink” Horstmyer

Foodies of New England

Deborah Tramontano

When I arrived late-morning on a Friday, the diner was busy. A woman behind the counter, a manager better known as “Tink,” greeted me from across the counter. A woman with three young children had just arrived for an early lunch. The mom giggled as she placed their order, “I think we might get parasols!” Sure enough, when the order arrived, she was right. It was as magical an experience for her as it was for her kids. I asked Tink if they put parasols on everything. “Everything! It’s all about the fun factor.” A construction worker in his early 20s rushed in on his break, “…a cookie, Tink, what should I get?” She responded, “If you’re taking it to go, get a sugar cookie. If you’re dunking it in milk, you want chocolate chip.” Suddenly not seeming rushed, he sat at the counter, and, with obvious pleasure, ordered a chocolate chip cookie and a glass of milk. Being impressed and overwhelmed with the variety of juice choices, I did what everyone else seemed to do: asked Tink for help. She recommended fresh-squeezed apple juice with ginger. The ginger gave the apple juice a memorable kick that made me want to experiment with it on my own.

Breakfast and lunch is served every day during hours of operation (they’re closed on Mondays): Tuesday-Friday from 7:00am-3:00pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 8:00am3:00pm. Weekly specials are posted on the Liberty Hill Diner Facebook page. As I was leaving, Hannah and her mother Sorrel came in for Hannah’s 22nd birthday. The family has been coming to the diner since it opened. Knowing she could have gone anywhere for her birthday, I asked Hannah why she chose the Liberty Elm Diner: she immediately smiled, “I love the visual atmosphere and the food is great. This place is artsy and still totally ‘diner.’” The Liberty Elm Diner 777 Elmwood Avenue Providence, RI 02907 401-467-0777 www.libertyelmdiner.com

Since opening ﬁve years ago, the Liberty Elm Diner has “morphed into what it is today.” Initially they only served coffee and baked goods. “We’ve grown with our customers,” Tink smiled as she took a long look down the diner counter. “People come into a diner wanting food. That’s what we’ve become. When old timers come in, their noses turn up at the sight of the espresso machine. They feel better after looking at the menu and deciding to order a ‘Good ol’ Bowl of Oatmeal’ or a Grilled Cheese Sandwich. This place has a vibe all its own.” During the week, a typical cross-section of customers includes the working crowd, area residents, and college students. On weekends, “travelers, friends, and families” become the diner’s patrons. Tink says of college students, “Once they’ve found us, they’re repeat customers. They come in initially with their families on an orientation weekend or a visit. After they graduate, they come in again with their own babies. They keep rediscovering us.” The Liberty Elm Diner got a huge boost in July 2009 when Guy Fieri visited from Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. “Since the show aired in March 2010,” Tink said, “our customer base has doubled. Someone who lives down the street came in one day and said, ‘A cousin in New Jersey told me about you.’ As long as we are open, the show will be aired. Every time that happens, there’s an uptick in business.”

Guy’s Turkey Sandwich

Foodies of New England

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Foodies of New England

Paris Inspired Pastries I Written by Michelle Collins Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Irish soda bread, Greek baklava, and French macarons â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all served at a Swedish bakery. It might sound a little odd, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been working for over 40 years.

Swedish businessman Ake Lundstrom opened the Crown Bakery in Worcester four decades ago. At the time, Lundstrom decided that Worcester was in need of a quality Scandinavian bakery, and recruited a group of Swedish bakers to help him set up shop. 48

Foodies of New England

Today, his son Jon keeps the family business alive and continues to improve it. Since Lundstrom took over in 1994, the bakery has expanded its menu to include breakfast and lunch. Chowder and cream soups, seafood salad sandwiches, and daily calzones are just a few of the savory offerings Lundstrom has since added to the bakery’s menu. Most of Lundstrom’s ideas for The Crown Bakery’s various treats come from the baking conventions Lundstrom attends here in the United States. Mousse tarts, crème brulee, and fruit tarts are just a few of the recent pastry items Lundstrom has added to the bakery’s ever-evolving menu. But a trip to Paris in April inspired Lundstrom to focus his efforts on one pastry that his customers have grown to love just as much as he has: French macarons.

“I’ve continued to have…a lot of great employees over the years,” Lundstrom said. “They’re very loyal and stuck behind me the whole time….It makes it important for the business.” Lundstrom hopes to expand the pastry line even more – and a baking convention in Houston this fall could provide the next bit of inspiration he needs. Just don’t expect the macarons to leave the menu anytime soon. Crown Bakery 133 Gold Star Blvd. Worcester, MA 508-852-0748 www.thecrownbakery.com

Chocolate, pistachio, coconut, mint and chocolate mousse macarons are just a few of the varieties that Lundstrom and his bakers have been baking, tasting, and offering. According to Lundstrom, the customers have accepted this Parisinspired addition to the menu with open arms. “They love them,” Lundstrom said. In addition to the family roots and traditions behind the bakery, as well as the careful attention put into the menu, Lundstrom credits the bakery’s success to one more important factor: his staff. Jon Lundstrom

Foodies of New England

Golden Lamb Buttery (Continued from page 71)

Attention Foodies!

Mark Your Calendar

Worcester’s Best Chef Competition Mechanics Hall Sunday, January 27, 2013

Handcrafted desserts offer several options such as Lemon Blueberry Cake, Coconut Custard, Bread Pudding and Chocolate Roll, though there are often other seasonal offerings available in high summer, strawberry rhubarb and for fall Maple with Walnut Praline. Dinner is $75 per person, not including tax, drinks, and gratuity. But the views are both priceless and free and no one leaves hungry. In 2008, the senior Booth team decided to hand the reins to their grand-daughter Katie Bogert, who has been working at the Golden Lamb Buttery since she was 13. She knew the ropes and it was a sound choice, as five years later, they are going strong and showing no sign of flagging in any aspect of the operation. She manages a seasonal crew of 25, mostly part time waitstaff, plus several full-time chefs. The modest gardens of 40 years ago have “grown” exponentially and they can offer a much broader selection of their own produce for the restaurant. They also support local food artisans; their organic old world poultry comes from GourMavian Farms in nearby Bolton and they now offer full vegetarian and gluten free dinner options. One new offering in keeping with the times is a small plates menu, available Friday and Saturday before 6 and after 8 PM. Marinated olives, a mini-cheese plate, duck liver mousse truffles, roasted baby beets, and pork rillettes are among the 14 scrumptious selections. Having an idyllic country setting lends itself to celebrations, and the Golden Lamb Buttery IS a full-service facility. They host about 20 weddings a year along with a larger number of baby showers, anniversaries and general parties, plus several charity events, including wine tastings. Ms. Bogert, who has a degree in business administration from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, claims that she doesn’t intend to keep cooking and managing the operation into her 80s as her grandparents did, but that she will be here for the foreseeable future. Katie says, “We work very hard to preserve the experience created and honed for years by Jimmie and Bob Booth. Impeccable service, delicious regional dishes prepared to perfection in an elegant country setting - that’s what people have been coming here for these last 49 years, and we intend to keep that tradition alive and well for as long as we can!”

Tickets will be available at www.worcestersbestchef.com

Foodies of New England

Golden Lamb Buttery is located at 499 Wolf Den Road, Brooklyn, CT 06234, 860-774-4423. Lunch served Tuesday - Saturday noon to 2:30, Dinner Friday and Saturday 7:00 PM. www.thegoldenlamb.com

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Dinner Is On Us * With the purchase of a diamond ring, Garieri Jewelers will buy you a 3-course dinner prepared by Chef Christopher Rovezzi at Rovezzi’s Ristorante, Sturbridge, MA *See store for details

Fine Jewelers Since 1947 139 Main Street Sturbridge, MA 01566 508-347-9934 • www.garieri.com

1 ½ CTW Compare at $5,895 Our price: $3,995 Ring can be customized to ﬁt any budget. Foodies of New England

“History of...”

Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Jodie Lynn Boduch, owner of Much Ado Marketing, serves as Social Media Director and Staff Writer for the Foodies team. She’s an adventurous explorer of the culinary landscape and enjoys writing about food. Educated in both business and history, she has big plans to put the latter to good use for this column.

Foodies of New England

8ɤɜȹȐȝ

Apple pies, eggnog, and béchamel sauce have one thing in common (other than being good candidates for a caloric splurge, that is):

Nutmeg.

t’s spicy, richly ﬂavored, and deeply aromatic. Nutmeg and its lesserknown sibling, mace, come from a tree native to the Banda Islands in Indonesia. Nutmeg is the “nut” and mace is the “aril,” or covering around the nut. The once-pricey spice (sold at a 6,000% markup) plays hard-to-get no more and is now also produced in India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, several Caribbean islands, and New Guinea. Nutmeg is used in both sweet and savory recipes throughout the world. It’s Nutmeg-Central in Penang, Malaysia, where you can have everything from nutmeg juice to nutmeg salad to nutmeg syrup. Nutmeg is widely used in the both the US and Europe in vegetables, meats, spice cakes, pies, and holiday cookies. In the Caribbean, it’s often used in cocktails (who’s up for some Barbados rum punch?). Nutmeg is often used in meat recipes in Middle Eastern cooking, and Japanese foodies use it in curry, as do foodies in India, who also infuse it in garam masala.

A Colonial Spice Although nutmeg is a popular ingredient in traditional New England dishes, its connection to the colonial era has to do with more than ﬂavorful seasoning. Nutmeg was the Helen of Troy of the spice trade several centuries ago. Rivalries that would make soccer fans blush broke out among European powers for access to trendy spices, of which nutmeg was among the most highlyprized. That has nothing to do with the price of tea in China, but it does have to do with the price the Dutch paid for Manhattan—sort of. The Dutch bought Manhattan (renaming it New Amsterdam) from Native Americans in 1626 for 60 guilders (the real value of which in today’s dollars is disputed—ﬁgures from $24 to $72 have made the rounds…in any event, not much). This purchase later came into play when the Dutch had their Nutmeg Monopoly game ruined as the British took over an outpost in the Banda Islands…and then the Dutch later invaded it in order to get it back. That might have worked out better had the British not also invaded New Amsterdam. In 1667, the Dutch and British engaged in a treaty to sort out the mess. Nutmeg was more important to the Dutch, though, so they opted to cede New Amsterdam in exchange for the Indonesian island. The British were more interested in some South American territory, but it was a no-go with the Dutch, so the Brits shrugged and threw up their hands (presumably…we can’t verify that part), and the rest is another chapter in New York history. (Continued on page 54)

Foodies of New England

(Continued from page 53)

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Foodies of New England

New York isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only state with historical ties to nutmeg. Connecticut, in addition to being the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Constitution State,â&#x20AC;? is sometimes known as the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Nutmeg State.â&#x20AC;? Two variations exist as to the reason why: One story claims that early settlers of Connecticut had a reputation for being shrewdâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;so shrewd that they made and sold â&#x20AC;&#x153;nutmegsâ&#x20AC;? made of wood, thus pulling one over on nonNew Englanders. Another (and more plausible) version suggests that southern customers were simply frustrated with â&#x20AC;&#x153;Yankee peddlersâ&#x20AC;? who sold them genuine nutmegsâ&#x20AC;Śbut perhaps neglected to explain that nutmeg is to be grated, not cracked.

A Nutmeg Trip? If you want a natural highâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;from something other than running, perhapsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; consider the nutmeg your good-time spice. It contains myristicin, a natural compound that can get you pretty trippyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;think mind-altering effects and hallucinationsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;if ingested in large doses. Sounds cool, but it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t. In all seriousness: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all fun and games until someone tosses back a bit too much nutmeg. First comes nausea and gastrointestinal distress, then heart and nerve reactions, then the hallucinatory effects. That translates into toxicity and dangerous situations not unlike glue-snifďŹ ng, â&#x20AC;&#x153;magic markerâ&#x20AC;? highs, and other poisonous-play with household products. (Needless to say, Foodies does NOT recommend ingesting nutmeg in this fashion. Stick to its culinary uses, kids!)

Onward to Healthier Uses... Like many other spices, nutmeg was valued for its medicinal properties, once-upon-a-time. Reference to it is made in Indian writings (as a remedy for headaches, fever, and bad breath) and Arab texts praise it as an aid to stomachaches and heartache (that is,

as an aphrodisiac). Nutmeg still retains its reputation for relieving nausea, and modern homeopathy uses it to treat anxiety and depression. Nutmeg oil is used in toothpaste, perfume, and cough syrup, as well as in the cosmetics industry. A little nutmeg goes a long way, assuming you keep your intake under control, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s among the more versatile spices. So if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re near the eggnog at a Christmas party and the conversation is slow...well, you can always talk about how the British got Manhattan from the Dutch thanks to nutmeg.

Although nutmeg is a popular ingredient in traditional New England dishes, its connection to the colonial era has to do with more than ďŹ&#x201A;avorful seasoning.

Congratulations to Executive Chef/Owner Chris Rovezzi

Winner of the Iron Chef Round of the Worcester’s Best Chef Competition 2012! Chris will be elevated to the Judges Panel at Worcester’s Best Chef 2013 The Worcester’s Best Chef charitable culinary competition is the premier culinary event throughout Central New England and boasts the most exclusive, creative, & ﬁnest epicurean masterpieces to be found anywhere.

Worcester’s Best Chef

It Runs in the

Family Written by Michelle Collins Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Foodies of New England

n Westborough, a 6th -generation farm has been growing food for local chefs for almost two decades – and the crops just keep on growing.

Harvey’s Farm, run by father Jim Harvey (5th generation) and daughter Emily Harvey (6th generation), boasts 50 acres of fields and fresh produce. Crops are still picked by hand every single day—like they have since the farm began. “Our ancestors worked countless hours to provide for our family and we continue that work ethic in order to provide for future generations,” Emily said. Being a family-run farm, the Harveys are passionate about sharing their crops with other families. “We believe our customers are an extension of our family, and it is our mission to give them an experience of yesteryear,” Emily said. Customers of Harvey’s Farm won’t find just the typical tomatoes and zucchini here (although such standard crops are also abundant). Indigo rose tomatoes, red currants, and kohlrabi are also some of the summer crops. The hard-to-find, hand-picked crops at Harvey’s Farm are a big reason why local chefs have flocked there for nearly 20 years. They arrive with an eagerness to find interesting and unusual in-season produce to bring back to their kitchens. “I take things to a different level,” Jim said, pointing out the importance of ‘wowing’ the chef who likes to ‘wow’ his or her patrons.

Harvey’s Farm 120 South Street Westborough, MA 01581 508-366-1545 www.harveysfarm.com

Foodies of New England

“Passionate chefs are looking for what’s different… and higher quality,” Jim said. Although many of the farm’s regular chefs have switched restaurants over the years, they still continue to use Harvey’s. Jim and Emily allow the chefs to come to the farm and pick which crops they’d like to use that day or week. Some chefs place special orders for the crops they need, but most are willing to pick what’s fresh that day. “It makes for a happy chef and a happy farmer,” Jim said. Like all farmers, each season leaves the Harveys with plenty of crops. For instance, in one given day during the summer they can pick upwards of two pounds of cucumbers. The chefs gladly help them get rid of their surplus. Thanks to the ever-evolving relationship with their chefs and customers – and the Harveys’ passion for and dedication to the family’s farm – it’s clear they’re not stopping at generation number six. “Throughout the decades, there has been a willingness and need to constantly evolve,” Emily said. “It’s important to build upon what is working, but also vital to think ahead and constantly consider, ‘What’s next? How are we going to grow? Change? Improve?’” Whatever the answer to Emily’s self-directed question, local chefs and foodies can be sure that the Harvey philosophy of constant reinvention will produce a cornucopia of interesting and exciting things for their tables, season after season, year after year.

Jim Harvey

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Gluten Free

Written by Ellen Allard Gluten Free Diva www.glutenfreediva.com Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ellen Allard, Gluten Free Diva (www.glutenfreediva.com) is a recipe developer, food writer, food photographer and food videographer who frequently posts on her upbeat blog about gluten-free and dairy-free recipes. She is completing her training as a Holistic Health & Wellness Coach at the Institute for Integrative Nutrition in NYC. Ellen is passionately dedicated to helping others achieve optimal health through informed gluten-free and dairy-free food choices as well as a whole foods approach to eating. She loves all things food and is happy to talk to you about the same!

Gluten Free Fall Classics While it’s sad to say goodbye to summer, there is also something exciting and inviting about seeing the leaves on the trees beginning to change color. Though it’s just a waiting game to see how long we can go before we turn the heat on, we certainly welcome apple picking and pumpkin carving and don’t even mind pulling out that extra blanket just in case the evenings turn chilly. Fall in New England is filled with all sorts of possibilities when it comes to gluten free food choices. The dizzying array of gluten free donut options alone had my head spinning for days until I finally decided on Baked Spice Donuts. While frying them certainly had my attention for a moment or two, I decided to go the route of baked donuts because I knew they’d be less messy and ultimately healthier than those fried in oil. And even though all divas ought to be able to eat whatever they want (don’t you agree?!?), I am now officially a Certified Holistic Health Coach and as such, I want to model healthy eating for anyone listening or reading. Plus, truth be told, I like baked donuts better than fried ones! Nothing says fall more than apples and thus, this fine specimen of a fruit makes an appearance in the remaining three recipes featured in this article. First comes the Curried Butternut Squash Apple Soup. An easier recipe you won’t find. Add more or less curry, as your tastebuds dictate. Or eliminate it all together. I promise you’ll enjoy this soup and probably even wonder why you don’t eat it all year round. But then again, saving and preparing certain recipes for certain times of the year helps us bid adieu to one season while another swiftly takes its’ place. Salad is salad is salad. Sometimes, that is. In this case, a simple ordinary salad turns not so ordinary simply by the addition of sliced pears and chopped pecans. Finishing it with the balsamic dressing gives you a lovely marriage of sweet and tangy, and will have you licking your lips at the last bite. And finally, who could resist the Baked Apples Stuffed with Dried Cranberries & Walnuts? I used to think that baked apples were stodgy and old-fashioned and not very interesting. Stop the presses! I have revised my opinion. Yeah, regular old baked apples aren’t very exciting. But when you stuff them with fall spices like cinnamon and nutmeg and cloves and then drizzle them with maple syrup and coconut oil, it’s the perfect dessert to serve to anyone, anytime. I love this time of year. I say, bring it on!

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Baked Spice Donuts Ingredients: 1 cup Jules All Purpose Gluten Free Flour 1 tsp baking powder ¼ tsp baking soda ¼ tsp salt 1/3 c. sugar ½ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp nutmeg 1/8 tsp cloves 2 tbsp butter (I used Earth Balance) 1 egg, beaten ¼ c. plain yogurt (2% or full fat) ¼ c. scalded milk (dairy or any alternative milk will do) Preheat oven to 350˚. In a large bowl, mix together the ﬂour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. Cut in the butter, working with your hands to incorporate everything until the mixture feels like sand. Pour in the beaten egg, yogurt, and milk. Stir to combine. Don’t overmix! Pipe into a donut pan and bake for 15 minutes or until springy to the touch. Remove directly to a cooling rack. Brush top of each donut with simple sugar mixture and then sprinkle cinnamon sugar on top. Simple Sugar Mixture: Simple Sugar made by heating ¼ c. sugar with 2 tbsp water, bring to a simmer, stir or swirl in the pan to combine. It will turn into a syrup very quickly. Cinnamon Sugar: 2 tbsp sugar mixed with ¼ tsp cinnamon

Harvest Salad Ingredients: Spring Lettuce Mix ½ pear, thinly sliced ½ c. sweet potato, sliced ¼” thick, roasted at 350 degrees until cooked through 2 tbsp chopped pecans For the dressing: 1 ½ tsp Balsamic Vinegar 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil ½ tsp honey pinch of sea salt freshly ground black pepper Make dressing ﬁrst. Combine balsamic vinegar and mustard and blend until emulsiﬁed. Drizzle olive oil while whisking. Add honey, salt and pepper. Whisk again. Set aside. Plate the salad ingredients. Drizzle the dressing over the salad.

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Baked Apples Stuffed with Dried Cranberries & Walnuts Ingredients: 2 large Granny Smith Apples Â˝ tsp cinnamon 1/8 tsp nutmeg dash of ground cloves Âź c. pure apple juice 2 tbsp maple syrup 2 tsp coconut oil, melted 2 tbsp dried cranberries 2 tbsp chopped walnuts 2 tbsp brown sugar Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine the cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, dried cranberries, walnuts and brown sugar in a bowl. Set aside. Core apples being careful not to cut through the bottom of each apple. Spoon the spiced walnut mixture into each apple and place in a casserole dish. Pour the apple juice around the apples. Mix together the maple syrup and melted coconut oil. Drizzle over the top of the apples. Cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 40 minutes Remove foil and bake for another 20 minutes or until soft.

Curried Butternut Squash Apple Soup Ingredients: 1 tbsp olive oil 1 cup chopped onion 1 garlic clove, minced 2 tsp curry powder 4 cups chopped butternut squash 1 granny smith apple, peeled, cored, and chopped 2 cups vegetable stock 1 can lite coconut milk 2 tbsp agave syrup 1 tbsp wheat free tamari sauce sea salt & freshly ground pepper, to taste 1 - 2 tsp red curry paste, optional Heat the olive oil in a pot over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, and curry powder. Cook for 10 minutes or until the onions are tender, stirring occasionally. Add the squash, apple, and vegetable stock. Bring to a simmer and cook until the squash can be mashed with the back of a fork. This will take 30 - 45 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients. The curry paste is a nice addition but can be omitted. Blend with an immersion blender until smooth and creamy. Bring the soup to a boil, then simmer until ready to serve.

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FARM to TABLE

Golden Lamb Buttery Written by David G. Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Set amid the rolling ﬁelds of rural Northeast Connecticut, and graced with a seemingly endless web of ﬂowing stone walls, the Golden Lamb Buttery is a vintage gem, well polished after almost 50 years of continual gracious hospitality. Established as a place to get a light simple lunch next to the woolen mill and shop that crafted custom suits for their customers, the sophisticated team of Virginia “Jimmie” and Bob Booth expanded the venue over time. It has become one of the premiere country dining experiences of Central New England.

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A little history - the Booth family came into ownership of the 1,000 acre spread around 1940, naming it Hillandale Farms. Robert Booth’s great grandfather, William Booth, founded the Salvation Army in 1865. Robert’s father Henry was a textile magnate. Virginia Wagoner was an engineering and fine arts student at Syracuse University. After a stint as an engineer at Pratt & Whitney during WW2, she became a bridal consultant at a Hartford, CT firm in 1945. Through her collaborations with various top designers and textile manufacturers in New York City, Jimmie encountered Henry Booth of Hillandale Weavers, who made frequent trips to the city for business and Henry introduced son Robert to Virginia Wagoner. They clicked. Jimmie and Robert married in 1956 and Bob took over the farm and textile operations in 1960. Since customers usually traveled far to Brooklyn and eateries were many miles away, Mrs. Booth began offering lunches for them starting in 1963. She harnessed the barn across the road from the mill and decorated it with drawings, textile examples, and an increasingly eclectic range of decorative arts and objects. The meals were simple but very fresh and healthy, using ingredients from their farm and other local meat and produce. Patrons tended to take their time and relax, exploring the barn, views, and grounds. This basic formula laid the groundwork for what was - and is - the Golden Lamb Buttery experience. By the early 1970s, as the custom tailoring business began to wind down, the Booths expanded their service and started offering dinner. Now they were firing on all cylinders and their fame spread throughout the Northeast. For the next 45 years, Jimmie and Bob were consummate hosts - always welcoming, stylish, and sophisticated, but with a country nonchalance that put everyone at ease... and the meals were superb.

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Katie Bogert, owner of the Golden Lamb Buttery

Having had the good fortune of attending several dinners at the Golden Lamb, this writer can describe the delightfully entertaining experience ﬁrsthand. Dress code is jacket and tie for the men, women are on their own, but typically follow suit with more formal garb, dresses and good shoes being popular. After your cocktail is delivered, one can wander around the massive barn and back deck and take in all the memorabilia gracing the walls and hand-hewn posts. Strangers greet one another and a convivial at-

mosphere ensues. Weather permitting, the hay wagon pulls up to the barn door and guests are encouraged to hop on and enjoy a ride around the grounds, while serenaded by a musician with a guitar... usually Susan Lamb, whose name no doubt helped during the job interview, but can more than hold her own with musical talent and deep resources of songs at her ﬁngertips. Singalongs are common, perhaps fueled by the cocktails.

Back in the barn, guests are ushered right through the small kitchen into three dining areas - all rustic and very comfortable. Long-time patrons have their favorite spots, but really, there are no bad tables. Dinner is a single seating at 7PM Friday and Saturday and the menu is seasonal, though several entrees are cast in stone and will likely remain so for decades to come. Warm and cold soups are offered ďŹ rst, most recently Country Cottage, (a cream soup with cauliďŹ&#x201A;ower, celery, onions and leeks), Vegetable Peasant (with parmesan spinach tortellini), Chilled Pear Pineapple and Chilled Borscht. Entrees start with a succulent Roast Duckling, almost falling off the bone, which is one of the mainstays mentioned above, as well as Chateaubriand with Bearnaise sauce, pan roasted Salmon and Rack of Lamb. Entrees are served with family style vegetables which may include creamed spinach, orange glazed carrots with roasted fennel, chilled peas with sorrel pesto, artichokes au gratin and braised spring leeks.

Roast Duckling with Wild Rice

Heirloom Tomato Basil Soup

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FARM to TABLE

Hope & Olive Written by Stacy Horowitz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

When fall arrives in Western Massachusetts, it brings more than a collage of foliage. Locally-grown fresh produce such as corn and tomatoes have just arrived. The hearty vegetables synonymous with crisp weather - hard squashes, artichokes, potatoes and root vegetables - are just around the corner. Perhaps no one else is more excited for their arrival than Maggie and Jim Zaccara and their business partner Evelyn Wulfkhule, the owners of the Hope & Olive Restaurant in GreenďŹ eld, Massachusetts.

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Hope & Olive is loosely modeled after Maggie’s ﬁrst restaurant, A Bottle Of Bread, which was lost due to a ﬁre in Shelburne Falls, MA. Maggie and Evelyn worked together there and then decided to become business partners along with Maggie’s brother, Jim. They spent two years looking at properties until they fell in love with a former Polish/American club that was up for sale. Six months of construction later, Hope & Olive was born. Some of the original amenities from the club are still used, including the bar. Since their beginnings in September of 2007, the Zaccara’s and Wulfkhule have been utilizing local farms to purchase their fresh ingredients, long before it became trendy. They’ve established strong relationships with a number of local farms, which includes Clarkdale

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Fruit Farm, The Kitchen Garden Farm, Warner Farm, Old Friends Farm, Amherst Mapleline Farm, Warm Colors Apiary, and Boyden Farms. Hope & Olive has the kind of top-tier menu usually reserved for elegant dining, but the ambiance and dining experience is best described as cozy and casual by the community folks and friends that gather for the savory offerings. Rich maroon and deep brown tones give the restaurant a soothing and cozy vibe, making it a perfect spot to curl up with one of their seasonal cocktails. Two to try include the “Fifth Season”—a gin, orange, and amaretto martini—or the “Nighty Night”—a toddy that blends local organic ginger beer, bourbon, and fresh lemon. “We like to think of it as strolling into Grandma’s house,” said Jim, “a mix of eclectic and modern.”

The low-priced ($2-$8) bar menu changes daily and features twelve taps of eclectic beer, twelve whites and reds by the glass, great local ciders, and other locally-brewed beverages. The quarterly-changing food menu is now being prepared for fall and is an exotic sight for all ﬁve senses. “Fall foods are warmer, with more earth tones, slow-roasted and nuttier. The return of our regular fall favorites is just around the bend,” said Maggie. Their offerings include: fan-favorite fried Brussels sprouts; pan-seared scallops in maple butter on a roasted pear; pickled shallot, pecan and watercress salad; baked acorn squash stuffed with wild rice, al-

Pan seared scallops insole butter with apple and watercress salad

mond and cranberry, with garlic braised kale and apple-ginger and leek compote; and a penne with butternut and Swiss chard, walnuts, and blue cheese. By utilizing the best local produce and products that Greenﬁeld has to offer, combined with the exceptional service and warmth of the staff, savory topnotch meals, and affordable prices, Hope & Olive embodies what quality and supporting the local economy is supposed to be all about. Hope & Olive 44 Hope Street Greenﬁeld, MA 01301 413-774-3150 www.hopeandolive.com

Maggie Zaccara, Evelyn Wulfkuhle and Jim Zaccara

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Seasonal vegetables with fried grits and Mediterranean pesto

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FARM to TABLE

Loie Fuller’s Written by Brad Schwarzenbach Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Eric Wolf has a vision: a self-sustaining bistro where ingredients are always fresh and come directly from the establishment’s very own farm. Loie Fuller’s is that bistro. To ensure all the ingredients that end up on the Providence, RI bistro’s plates are always fresh and local, he and his wife/co-owner, Desi, purchased a 22-acre farm in rural Foster, RI. Their ambitious farm to table concept is extreme: to grow and raise all of the food themselves.

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While not every ingredient is from the farm yet, he’s making progress. “This year we have 80 chickens, 40 turkeys, green beans like crazy, tomatoes, summer squash, radishes, snow peas, arugula,” enumerated Wolf. “It’s a lot of work. Lettuces, rainbow chard; we have about a bazillion heirloom tomatoes about to come in.” It’s a dizzying prospect having to not only cook and serve your restaurant’s food, but produce it as well. On a steamy Friday evening before the dinner service, Eric explained his optimism for this farm-to-table project that

is otherwise a financially difficult undertaking. “We’re not doing this the easy way. We’re combining two historically low-margin businesses: farming and food service.” And while it may make little sense financially, his goals are loftier. “It’s not enough for me to go to Whole Foods and get organic beef. I need to know. I want to see,” he said. ”There’s a philosophical desire to do it. It’s psychological, too. You can buy a dozen eggs for ninety-nine cents. Or, you can raise the chicks, feed them and harvest the eggs yourself.”

As if facing the daunting challenge of providing its own ingredients isn’t enough, Loie Fuller’s also faces the expectations of the New England dining public—particularly those in Providence. Known so well for its Italian-American standbys, such as fried calamari and eggplant parm, Providence might have expectations that Loie Fuller’s just can’t fulﬁll. But, what it can deliver is unexpected. “It’s all about creating an experience,” Wolf said. “I think the dining public projects the experience they want to have. And we don’t do a lot of expected things, like no calamari, no reservations.” So what do they have? The menu is mainly French-inspired in execution while the ingredients are commonplace: pan-seared scallops, striped bass and mussels are mainstays but exist next to skirt steak and rendered duck breast. Plus, it’s not complicated and that is also by design. Loie Fuller’s upsets the stuffy European café stereotype with straightforward dishes like steak frites and grilled chicken thighs. Still, the care that goes into the seasonings and garnishes represents Wolf’s desire to elevate the traditional, much of which comes from his own culinary history. “I’m rebelling against the processed food of my childhood,” he shuddered recalling the overcooked pork chops of the 80s and 90s. Wolf readily admitted that his brand of French-inﬂuenced home cooking is a tough sell in one of the bastions of red sauce Italian food. “I mean, we’re doing advanced, cutting edge food to an audience that’s not used to it,” Wolf says. “But, you have to respect your clientele.”

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It’s an uphill battle to build an audience in a community so used to the way things have always been done. But, it’s also another one of the restaurant’s challenges that he is determined to overcome. An extremely successful initiative has been “Mussel Mondays” where $5 plates of local shellﬁsh are served along with an elite selection of craft beers, priced affordably. The result has been a lively Monday crowd. “I’m always thinking of stuff like that. One Saturday night, I had a lot of mussels leftover, and Mondays are slow,” Wolf trailed off. “I didn’t want to stand still. I don’t ever want to be idle. It’s made this into a community and it’s electric in here on Mondays.”

The Loie Fuller’s vision is strong, but not staid. Wolf is very aware that every restaurant needs to react to be successful. “We are constantly evolving. We added a patio and Sunday brunch, which is fun. Brunch is loose,” Wolf says. “Brunch is an iconic Rhode Island thing and I wanted to bring that here.” The interior is whimsical; a free-ﬂowing mural covers all the walls (the work of local designer Kyla Coburn), deep blues mingle with golden starlight and feminine imagery. The entire scene is reminiscent of the magical, late-night sequences in Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris. What they’ve built is a restaurant that is as much about the experience as it is about the taste, but at the end of the

day, the food is the standout and it’s a tribute to Eric Wolf’s ambitious vision of the potential for farm-to-table dining. “It’s an honest product and it’s an easy product to get behind because I know exactly what it is,” he said. Loie Fuller’s isn’t taking an easy path to superlative food service. The challenges and obstacles it puts forth force the artisans inside the kitchen and out on the dining room ﬂoor to aim higher and work harder. Loie Fuller’s 1455 Westminster Street Providence, RI 02909 401-273-4375 www.loiefullers.com

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Food for Thought

Written by Peggy Bridges Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Peggy Bridges is a high school Business and Graphic Arts teacher. She is a Yearbook Advisor and Editor, and her writing has also been published in a national educatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magazine. Peggy is a ďŹ rm believer in healthy living and an active lifestyle. She enjoys many outdoor activities with her husband and children. Her recipe for a perfect afternoon is a hike with her family and lunch on a blanket served from a picnic basket packed with great food and bottle of good wine.

Fresh produce awaits CSA shareholders at Devon Point Farm

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Community Supported Agriculture Get Your Share

hen you’re doing the family’s weekly grocery shopping in your local supermarket, do you check labels to see where the food’s coming from? Does it matter to you that you have no idea under what conditions that food was grown, what kind of fertilizer was used to grow it, or, if it’s meat, what feed was given to the animals? It should—and it does—to an increasingly larger percentage of the population. In recent years people have become more careful about choosing the foods they feed their families. It’s no wonder, with all the media scares about tainted and contaminated foods that have been found to come from producers that sometimes operate under poorly-supervised and unsanitary conditions. Add to that the concern about chemical fertilizers, pesticides, hormones, and antibiotics, and the result is a growing population of educated consumers who are looking for food sources that they feel safer and more confident about. That safer food source is often a farm share or community supported agriculture program, otherwise known as a CSA. CSAs are essentially programs that allow consumers to purchase a “share” of a local farmer’s crop at the start of the growing season, which typically runs from June through October or November. The cost of membership averages $400 - $600, and entitles members to come to the farm each week and pick up their “share” of the farmer’s harvest. For members living in a more urban area, some farmers arrange drop-off points where those members can retrieve their goods more conveniently instead of traveling to the farm. Members who purchase a season’s “share” can see first-hand the food that is being grown for them. They get to check out the farmer’s operation, meet their farmer personally, and find out all they want to know about how their food is grown, cared for, and harvested. If they’re purchasing meat shares, they can see the living conditions of the livestock they will eat, how they’re cared for, and what they’re fed. All of these things ultimately affect the quality of the meat that will be yielded by these animals that ends up on the dinner table. (Continued on page 82)

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After experiencing the freshness of straight-from-the-field produce from a CSA, it also becomes obvious just how old the food purchased in the grocery stores can be. Most CSA produce stays fresh and edible for about a week-and-ahalf, as opposed to food from the supermarket that spoils within days. The concept of the CSA has been around for a while. Some local New England farmers have been offering such programs since the 1980s. The programs offer mutual benefits to the shareholders and the farmers. Shareholders get a constant supply of fresh, local food and farmers get the benefit of a positive cash flow through the lean winter months. In this win-win situation, the question comes down to this: why not support your local farmer? Buying food locally keeps small farms in business, keeps land in agricultural production, and preserves open space, a far better option ecologically than selling off and subdividing old farms for development purposes. The CSA system effectively gives local farmers some much-needed security in the volatile agriculture market, and gives them a chance to compete with the larger nationwide producers by leaving out the middle man. Most people who buy into CSAs end up staying with their farms for many years, which validates the benefits of participation in these programs. If you’re considering giving it a try, there are a few things to consider. First, you need to be willing and able to travel to pick up your shares at a designated time and location each week. If not at the actual participating farm, sometimes pick-up may be offered at a secondary location to increase easy access for more members. Other factors you need to think about are whether you have the means to store the amount of food you’ll be picking up each week, and whether your family will consume the amount of food before it spoils or by the time the next share is brought home. One option offered by most CSAs is the purchase of a half-share instead of a full share for those families whose level of consumption doesn’t justify the purchase of a full share. Keep in mind that purchasing a share of a farmer’s harvest might have some initial sticker shock since payment is usually required in full at the beginning of the growing season for all the food you will bring home throughout the entire season. So you need to take a look at what your normal monthly costs are for the type of food items you would be purchasing through the share program, break down

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the cost by week, and then compare “apples to apples,” so to speak. Most people find that the prices for the food they receive through their CSA are roughly equivalent to the prices for the same organic items in the local grocery store. CSAs are not to be confused with farmer’s markets. There is a distinct difference. In a farmer’s market, there are numerous farmers from various locations who have all brought whatever items they have successfully harvested that week to sell at the same specific location. What you’re getting may very well be fresh from a local farm, but you don’t actually know for sure how or where those foods have been grown, or how they’ve been handled. In contrast, if you’re a member of a CSA you can walk the farm, see your food being grown, and even get to know your farmer on a first-name basis: you get to “know your food.” Many farms that operate CSA programs also offer social events and festivals for their members and the community. There is a real sense of wholesome living and neighbors working together as a community. Another difference between CSAs and farmer’s markets is the risk involved. When you purchase a farm share as part of a CSA, you’re making an investment in your food supply, but you’re also taking a risk right along with the farmer concerning the uncertainty of the harvest. Most farmers who operate share programs are firm believers in being good stewards of the earth. They avoid using chemicals and commercial fertilizers to ensure the highest quality food, which decreases their yield in comparison with commercial farms that do use them in order to maximize production and profit. There is also the uncertainty of the weather that can affect the yield of the harvest. If the harvest is less than anticipated, CSA shares will be smaller, but if there is an exceptionally fruitful harvest, members reap the rewards as well. Another positive aspect of CSA programs is the fact that very little, if any, food is wasted. The farmers and their staff harvest only what is needed for their members who are picking up on a specific day, so there is no waste. Additionally, some farms allow members to leave any food items they don’t want or can’t use in a sort of “surplus” table or box, where others may take and use it instead of allowing it to go to waste. Some farms also offer “U-Pick” options for labor-intensive crops such as strawberries, beans, and peas. This option usually yields amounts that are also closely tailored to the actual consumption needs of the participating household,

minimizing waste and getting the whole family involved in the harvest. Remember how much you enjoyed picking your own strawberries as a kid? And how many of us enjoy the traditional apple-picking in the fall? Not only is it fun, but things just seem to taste better when you know you picked them yourself. We visited a few farms in Massachusetts and Connecticut to check out their CSA programs and give you a sneak peek at some of the meats, produce, and even ﬂowers they have to offer their members. Of course, there are many more of them, so you’ll need to do a little homework to ﬁnd one closer to you if these programs aren’t convenient to your area. There are websites that offer a great deal of information on CSAs. One such source for the central Massachusetts area is www. farmfresh.org, which offers the options of searching by food type, farm, or area. Sources: www.justfood.org, www.biodynamics.com

Stillman’s Farm – New Braintree, MA Stillman’s Farm is owned and operated by Glenn and Geneviève Stillman. Over 30 years of experience goes into the maintenance and operation of three related farming businesses. They, along with other family members of the next Stillman generation, operate the fruit and vegetable farm in New Braintree, a meat CSA in Hardwick, fondly referred to as the Turkey Farm, and another large fruit and vegetable operation in Lunenburg. Glenn and Geneviève Stillman run their vast farming operation from a circa 1750 farmhouse on Barre Road in New Braintree. Their slogan is “Conscientiously Grown,” which is based on their strong belief in good stewardship of the land. It is so

important to them that they have added habitat development and maintenance for native wildlife to the farming aspect of their business. They make every effort to live in harmony with the wildlife because they believe these creatures give back to us in a cooperative cycle of nature. They even have a beekeeping operation on the premises.

That safer food source is often a farm share or community supported agriculture program, otherwise known as a CSA When asked what sets Stillman’s Farm apart from other CSA or farm share operations, Geneviève Stillman said that they have the best informed membership. She described the twopage “box letter” that they put in every member’s share box each week. The letter has tidbits about what’s going on at the farm, any possible wildlife sightings, and recipes for members to try, and have a blog where members can keep updated and informed online. Geneviève explained that their members are “very engaged.” They enjoy coming to the farm and often picking some of their own share, or even using their “Stillman’s Bucks” card to purchase any extras they might want beyond their usual share. Members are accustomed to using their reusable bag, which they’re given at the beginning of the season to carry their weekly share. Geneviève calculates that using the bags saved 30,000 plastic bags in the ﬁrst year.

Geneviève Stillman of Stillmans Farm

(Continued on page 84)

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Stillman’s has weekly drop off points in Boston and several other farmer’s markets. Their operation is so large that their CSA members aren’t really purchasing shares: the yield is so plentiful that everyone is sure to receive their share without any concerns of running short for any reason. Even though memberships in the Boston area tend to ﬂuctuate because there is a lot of transition in the city, the overall annual return rate for membership is about 80%.

Devon Point Farm – Woodstock, CT Erick and Patty Taylor of Devon Point Farm in Woodstock, Connecticut put together an extraordinary presentation for their shareholders on pick-up days. Patty says that they are “building an experience.” They want people to enjoy their trip to the farm each week and take in all the beauty that surrounds them. She noted that people eat with their eyes, and it’s certainly easy to see how their foods are made even more delicious by the feast for the eyes that awaits the members of Devon Point Farm’s CSA. One shareholder was quoted as saying “This is the best part of my week!” when she came to pick up her share of the bountiful harvest. Patty emphasized that there is a complete cycle on their farm, where the animals fertilize the soil that, in turn, yields the crops that will feed them. She explained that she does what she calls “beyond organic” growing. She only had to use two organic treatments all summer to control insect pests that were damaging crops. Most farmers have to use far more than that to prevent insect-related losses. Patty also said that she doesn’t mind overplanting to provide ﬂexibility. In that way, if a crop goes bad, she doesn’t mind just plowing it under and re-sowing it instead of treating it with

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undesirable chemicals. This allows her to stay organic and still have plenty of yield for their shareholders. Devon Point Farm is also known for the grass-fed beef they sell from their Devon cattle. This beef, however, is sold by retail and at farmer’s markets without any CSA membership being required. This year they’ve added chicken and pork to their meat sales. Patty did emphasize that none of their produce goes to a farmer’s market. All of their produce is reserved only for their shareholders so that they get the best quality of everything the farm has to offer.

Olde Nourse Farm – Westborough, MA Olde Nourse Farm is one of the longest continually run family farms in the United States. Founded in 1722, it sits atop a hill on Route 30 amongst the beautiful rolling hills of Westborough, Massachusetts. Owned and operated by Jon Nourse and his family, the farm spans 140 acres and is especially well known for its homemade jams and jellies. These freshly made products are sold at the farm and through their exclusive online retail business, the Olde Nourse Farm Gourmet. Olde Nourse Farm has a 20-week growing season which runs from June through October. Their CSA program offers shares of three different sizes and cost levels; there are family shares, two-person shares, and individual shares to accommodate the varied needs of its members. They have a lot of young families with varying numbers of children, so this is an especially attractive selling point. Jon Nourse explained that what sets their CSA program apart from most others is that their members get to choose what they want, instead of being allotted a certain number of designated foods. (Continued on page 98)

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6WDUW <RXU 'D\ 2II 5LJKW With our signature danishes in a variety of ﬂavors, using authentic European recipes and methods. We also offer fresh fruit scones, mufﬁns, coffee cakes, and sweet breads. You’ll also want to try our biscotti, assorted butter pound cakes (classic and combination of spices), Parisian macarons, individual desserts and gourmet cookies.

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SOCIAL TWO WAYS:

THE BOSTON BRUNCHERS Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Let’s do lunch. No, check that. Let’s do brunch instead. That’s what food blogger Renee Hirschberg and a handful fellow bloggers did in fall 2010. The young, vibrant group enjoyed a delicious brunch at Lord Hobo in Cambridge and looked forward to the next one. But you know how people get together for a good time over food and say, “We should do this again some time?” Sometimes everyone gets busy and, despite good intentions, such future gatherings never transpire. Then there are people who enjoy bonding over great meals and sharing their experiences with a likeminded audience. Boston Brunchers, your table is ready. The group has since been joined by another few hundred food enthusiasts over the course of many brunches. Their goal takes a page out of the How to Be a Passionate Foodie Handbook—to try every brunch in Boston and the surrounding towns, though sometimes they go further aﬁeld to places like Newburyport. Two words set the Boston Brunchers apart from other dining groups: social media. Almost all of the Brunchers have Twitter accounts. Many of them have food blogs—though the overall network consists of more than 1500 Boston-area bloggers of other topics (lifestyle, travel, nightlife, fashion, etc.), food writers, Tweeters, reporters, PR pros, and other inﬂuencers in the food world. In addition to trying great places, their objective is to promote the brunches via social media.

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And in case you’re wondering just how much buzz they can generate, consider this: the ﬁrst four brunch locations for the Boston Brunchers became ranked in the top 10 “Talk of the Town” listing on Urban Spoon within 2 days of their visit. They’ve been featured in the Boston Globe and on Public Radio Kitchen, Yelp, the Boston Local Food Festival blog, and a number of other publications and media. They also attend conferences such as FoodBuzz Fest, Eat, Drink, and Be Social, Winemaker Magazine’s Annual Conference, BlogHer Conference, and the International Food Bloggers Conference. How’s that for being full of passion and energy? Hirchberg, who writes Eat.Live.Blog, believes that the collective social media inﬂuence of the Brunchers has brought visibility to restaurants many people wouldn’t expect to have a brunch option, such as Temple Bar in Cambridge or Dorado Tacos in Brookline. Members of the group also serve as informal reviewers, letting readers know that some of the brunches with a higher price tag, like The Langham, are well worth it. Reviews from the individual bloggers are posted on the individual blogs as well as on the Boston Brunchers website. Although food has been the essence of the group, the Brunchers have recently begun exploring events that are not solely food-centered, such as a tour of the Boston Jewelers Exchange Building in Downtown Crossing and participation in a Zumba class at Hill Studios in Watertown. It’s a testament to just how much this group relishes discovering new experiences together.

Asked about some of the more memorable moments the Brunchers have had, Hirchberg offers several (always a very good sign). One standout memory was “the ﬁrst time we were brought to our knees with too much food at The Biltmore Bar & Grille in Newton Highlands. I think we were all amazed that a restaurant that we hadn’t heard of before the event could be so amazing with every bite.” Also high on the list was the Brunchers’ “ﬁrst birthday party” in October 2011 at the Island Creek Oyster Bar on Commonwealth Ave in Boston, an event Hirschberg describes as “humbling.” Another humbling experience, Hirschberg explains, was at the Blog Better Boston conference, where she spoke on a panel about community at the conference. At one point she asked how many Brunchers were in the room—and more than a third of the people in the room raised their hands. “I still get goosebumps thinking about it,” Hirschberg adds. As you may have guessed by now, the Brunchers are indeed a community. “The bigger story,” Hirschberg says, “even more than the delicious food and places we discover, is the way food has brought us together. Over 150 bloggers have attended our events...and that is kind of an amazing thing. We are all extremely different and would have probably never crossed paths if it weren’t for our love of food and sharing our food experiences.” As Hirschberg says, you can’t ask for more than that. The Boston Brunchers website: www.bostonbrunchers.com. Twitter: @BostonBrunchers Food prepared by Scholars in Downtown Crossing

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MASS Innovation Night Written by Christine Whipple Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Mass Innovation Nights is a monthly product launch party and networking event. One month each year is dedicated to new food-related products. This year’s new product event was held on Wednesday, August 8th at TradeCenter 128, in Woburn, MA. Hyperion Law and Roche Brothers Supermarkets were the event sponsors, and Cummings Properties hosted the event. At the door, you pick up a vendor’s list complete with product descriptions and QR codes. “If you see something cool, blog about it, Tweet about it, Like it, post a video or picture online, or tell someone. The success of these events depends on word-of-mouth, blogging, tweeting, or live chatter. We’re here to promote local products and we need your help to do it,” explains Mass Innovation Night founder Bonnie Carlton. The “you” includes not only the vendors themselves, but also people off the street who RSVP to attend these events. In the last three years, Mass Innovation Nights events have helped to launch more than 400 products. Here are a few vendor examples from this year’s Foodies event: • UReserv offers a restaurant reservation solution in a cloud. For a flat fee of $30/month, restaurants can manage their inventory and seating and restaurant patrons can make reservations from any web-enabled device. This contrasts with competitors who charge an initial fee for equipment & software, plus a monthly usage and “per head” reservation fee. Their tagline: “Life just got easier.” • Biena Roasted Chickpeas are a delicious and healthy alternative to standard crunchy snacks, being high in protein and fiber and low in fat. They’re available in 3 flavors: Lime & Chili, Cinnamon Maple, and Sea Salt. Cinnamon Maple is the most popular flavor: people like adding it to cereal and yogurt. Poorvi Patodia launched this product five months ago because, “I grew up eating a fried version and wanted to make it healthier.”

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• Bitter Sweet is one of the few bakeries in Massachusetts to offer an extensive line of gluten-free products, for customers looking for a lifestyle change as much as an allergy solution. Bitter Sweet is owned by the Ahmadi sisters: Panta, who does the marketing, and Alyssa, who does the Europeanstyle baking (using no dyes or artiﬁcial ﬂavors). In the wholesale business for years, last April they ventured into retail when they opened a storefront in Woburn. • Mill River Winery (represented by Chris Johnson and founder Donna Martin) set up a tasting which included their award-winning Chardonnay, Riesling, Plantation Red, Plum Island Red, and Plum and White wines. In Donna’s 2008 business plan, her vision of the Winery was “5% romantic, 95% hard work.” Donna purchased a circa 1890 cider mill and renovated it, custom-designing and ordering wine equipment from Italy. She believes that “selling the experience is as important as selling the wine.”

Other Innovation Night vendors included: • ApotheCaring, herbal tea blends to assist the body in the healing process. • Bell Tower Foods, healthy and accessible fresh food through mobile grocery vehicles. • EarthHook, a patent-pending, permanently-afﬁxed grocery cart attachment which encourages reusable shopping bags and creates promotional opportunities. • Of Course Meals plans meals, shops, does designated meal prep work and delivers meals to customer’s homes. • Oncemade Beer, a seasonal collaboration, seeks to make pairings of two single-batch beers from over 100 local artisan brewers. • Pipe Dream Cupcakes, the ﬁrst cupcake truck in the Merrimack Valley.

• Stump Chunks, an all-natural ﬁre-starter made from the stumps of trees. • T’ART in a Bag, a prepared baking mix that makes an allnatural sweet or savory tart. • ThriveSpot, a free program delivering online marketing tools to restaurants such as mobile websites, menu management, and comparative reporting. The hosts, Cummings Properties, featured Beacon Grille restaurant and invited Corner Ofﬁce Gourmet to participate, showcasing canapés, hors d’oeuvres, and corporate catering capabilities. The general public is invited to attend any of the events. Mass Innovation Nights are usually held the second Wednesday of each month at different locations. Learn more at http://mass.innovationnights.com, follow the instructions to RSVP to come check out our next event.

• Root Cellar Preserves, recreates the tradition of artisan pickles. Foodies of New England

Sweet Sensations

Written by Alina Eisenhauer Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

As the Executive Pastry Chef and Owner of Sweet - serving up cakes and cupcakes during the day, and cocktails, appetizers & desserts in the evening has earned Alina Eisenhauer many accolades. In addition to being a successful chef and entrepreneur, Alina has been featured on three of Food Networks most popular competition Shows; Chopped, Cupcake Wars and most recently winning the premier episode of Sweet Genius. Alina’s custom cakes have earned her a celebrity following as well as an appearance on the current season of Bravo TV’s hit show The Real Housewives of New York City. Sweet 305 Shrewsbury Street Worcester MA 01604 508-373-2248 www.sweetworcester.com

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Apple Crisp Growing up in New England, fall has always been my favorite time of year. Fall means harvest, country fairs, apples, pumpkins, and endless possibilities for baking and cooking. Of all of the delicious possibilities fall brings, my favorite has always been apple crisp—served warm, and of course, with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream. To me, both apple crisp and apple pie are all about showcasing the apples…so I am a bit of a purest. I add very little spice so that it is really the apples that shine and are just highlighted by the addition of a little cinnamon. As much as I love nutmeg and use it in my kitchen often, I never add it to apple pie or apple crisp because it takes away from the pure apple flavor I am looking for. Since the main focus in this dish is the apples, it is important that we pick the right variety—my favorite choices for apple desserts are apples that have a little bit of tartness to balance the sweet and have a firm texture: a snap when you bite into them. At the top of my list are Empire, Macoun, Gala, Braeburn and Granny Smith: all of these apples have great texture and will hold up well when cooked. The one apple I never use for crisp or pie is Macintosh, which are really best for making apple sauce. Apple crisp is often baked as one large dish and scooped out to serve, but it is perfectly suited to be baked and served in mason jars which also make it the perfect take along for a fall picnic... Ingredients: 6-8 apples, peeled, cored and sliced* 3/4 cup white sugar 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 cup water or apple cider 1 cup quick-cooking oats 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup packed brown sugar 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened 6-8 half pint mason jars

DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. 2. Place the sliced apples in a large pot. Mix the white sugar, 1 tablespoon ďŹ&#x201A;our and ground cinnamon together, and sprinkle over apples. Pour water evenly over all. 3. Cook over medium heat, stirring often until tender but still holding their shape. 4. Evenly divide the apples and any remaining juices between the pint jars, leaving room for topping (an inch or so, but you can leave more or less depending on how much topping you like). 5. Combine the oats, 1 cup ďŹ&#x201A;our, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and softened butter together using a fork or pastry cutter. Crumble evenly over the apple mixture in each jar. 6. Bake at 350 degree F (175 degrees C) for about 25 minutes or until topping begins to brown. 7. Let the jars cool a bit and serve warm with vanilla ice cream or cool completely and put lids on to give away or save for later. ENJOY!

Foodies of New England

Brew Review

Major Beer Category: Ale Major Style Category: Belgian & French Ale Sub Style Category: Saison or Farmhouse Ale What is a Belgian & French Ale? This category of beer as defined by the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) includes Witbier, Belgian Pale Ale, Saison, Bier de Garde and Belgian Specialty Ale. The color spectrum for each of each respective styles ranges from pale straw or pale orange to amber, copper and brown. They display distinct aroma and flavor qualities and are generally distinguished in the glass by a dense, pillowy white head. Witbiers have a distinct zesty, citrusy mouthfeel developed via the use of curacao orange peel and coriander. Belgian Pale Ales are fruity and slightly spicy with balanced malt sweetness. Saisons combine fruity and spicy flavors with a distinct peppery, dry finish. Bier de Gardes feature “toasty, toffee-like or caramel sweetness”. Belgian Specialty Ales are vary widely in their production which encompasses a range of brewing practices not limited to the use of wild yeast strains. The alcohol contents range from 4.5% - 8.5% ABV and they are traditionally bottle conditioned.

Written by Matt Webster Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Matt Webster is a craft beer enthusiast, educator, event goer, blogger, restaurant adviser, private dinner consultant, celebrity video show host and above all, proudly passionate about all things beer.

What is a Saison? Literally translated from French to mean “season”, farmers brewed these beers as a source of refreshment during the harvest season, a source of employment in the winter and a source of nutrients for their cattle – spent grain being a quality feed. Historically developed in Wallonia, the French speaking region of Belgium, theses thirsty farmers would brew during the late fall and early spring to maximize the cooler temperatures. The beers were brewed with enough strength (alcohol content) to last through the summer, but also light enough to serve as a replenishing reward to the local farmhands. While difficult to duplicate in the modern age based on the inconsistent availability and use of ingredients by the originators of this style, these beers are known to be dry, highly carbonated and showcase a array of fruit notes with a distinct peppery finish – each having their own distinct taste profile. Alcohol contents typically range from 5 – 7%, which some less traditional styles landing at 9% and above. Our Choice: Pretty Thing Beer & Ale Project, Jack D’Or (Cambridge, Massachusetts) Why did we choose this beer? Jack D’Or is a great example of a really good Saison and as a “harvest season” beer is an obvious choice to go with fall harvest desserts such as fruit crisps and pies. The fruit and spice in the beer plays off of the fruit and spice in the dessert and the slightly higher carbonation is a welcomed accompaniment to any dessert. Website: www.prettythingsbeertoday.com Where can you find it in a 22 oz. bottle? KJ Baarons, Mass Liquors, Austin Liquors, Julio’s Liquors, Marlborough Wine & Spirits, Wine Nation. Where Can You Find It On Draft or In The Bottle*: The Dive Bar, The Boynton, The Horseshoe Pub, The Armsby Abbey, Sweet ***Note: This beer may not always be available at the above locations at all times.

Foodies of New England

CSA’s (Continued from page 84)

“Each week, vegetables and berries are assigned a point value, and shareholders choose what they want from the farm market pushcarts in the back part of the farm store.” Jon says that this eliminates waste and ensures that members get the full value of their share. These combined features result in a very personalized CSA program. Unlike most CSAs, berries are a large portion of the Nourse crop yield so there are plenty of them for their CSA members to choose from. And with the surplus, the farm also bakes a lot of fresh berry pies which can be purchased at the farm store. So if you like berries, Olde Nourse Farm is a great source, from fresh berries to berry pies, or berry jams and jellies – take your pick. Sign-ups for Olde Nourse Farm’s CSA begin November 1st for memberships that roll into the following year, so mark your calendar.

Foodies of New England

Throughout my visits and conversations with these farmers, three things in particular came to light. First is that farming is a way of life. I found myself envious of the purity and honesty of the lifestyle these people lead. There is just something so fundamental about making your living from the goodness of the earth, and respecting the cycle of animals and humans harvesting from and replenishing the soil that in turn yields another harvest. You literally reap what you sow. Secondly, after tasting the many foods from these CSA farms redefined for me what truly fresh produce means. Not only does it last at least a week longer than the seemingly “fresh” produce we’re presented with in our supermarkets, but the food itself is bursting with flavor that you just don’t get from the store. Maybe, just maybe, the carefully cultivated soil and the absence of all those chemicals enhance the flavor of the food as well.

The last thing that surprised me was how many species there are of each of the types of foods we’re accustomed to eating. Until I walked these farms and spoke with the farmers who run them, I had no idea there were so many varieties of each of the common foods we’ve grown up believing were the accepted standard. Did you know that there are yellow carrots, numerous shapes and colors of squash besides just zucchini and summer squash, and even a host of different kinds of potatoes? One farm I toured had an entire ﬁeld, at least two to three acres in size, that was planted with nothing but eggplant in more varieties than I could count from where I stood. I realized that we’ve been trained to recognize such a limited number of foods only because that’s all we’ve ever known. There’s a whole other world of foods and ﬂavors out there just waiting to be experienced. New foods prompt us to try new recipes, and that in itself can be an adventure. So even if you’re not ready to jump into joining a CSA, I would highly recommend at least visiting a farmer’s market and trying some truly fresh produce. Some of these farms also have farm stores on the premises, so that’s another option you could try. Either way, it will be an experience well worth your while, and it just might change the way you think about your food.

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Healthy at Home

Recipes by Elaine Pusateri Cowan Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

www.elaineslife.com Elaine strives to create beauty everyday. Whether sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designing web pages or interiors, preparing appetizers or entrees and even reďŹ nishing furniture or making art, she always looks to satiate her appetite for all things artistic. As an artist, foodie, interior designer and amateur photographer, Elaine believes in the quality of a sustainable life, not just living well. Her strong sense of duty to integrate such sustainability into every aspect of domestic life begins with perhaps the most basic of all elements: diet. She believes that anyone equipped with a stocked pantry and local produce can whip up quick, fresh, and delicious meals every night.

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“Teach your children well, … and feed them on your dreams, the one they picked, the one you’re known by”-Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young. For this issue I let my son take the reins. Chad spent two years on the West Coast, one with AmeriCorps and the second in college. This September he is enrolled at Johnson and Wales University in Providence. Being a foodie is in his blood, but his West Coast restaurant experience has amped his culinary acumen and he has been teaching his old mom a few new tricks. For instance, gnocchi de semolina. Dangerously lighter than its potato-based cousin, gnocchi de semolina is mild and cheesy, with a slightly crisp outer layer that surprisingly hangs on to its sauce. We paired it with the entire family’s favorite sausage and vodka cream sauce. My husband Chuck and daughter Antonia request this for dinner at least once a week: full of layered flavors—rosemary, caramelized onions, sausage, deglazed with vodka, and finished with cream. Is this dish healthy? Yes. Onions—especially the more pungent ones—are really good for you. They contain methionine and cystine, amino acids that actually remove heavy metals from your body; they contain vitamin C, and have been attributed to having a significant blood-sugar-lowering action. Rosemary stimulates the immune system, increases circulation, improves digestion, and increases the blood flow to the head and brain, improving concentration. And the sausage...ok, you got me, but it is not the kind you get outside Fenway at midnight. Ours is lean and mean— some like it hot, and we do too—and a little goes a long way. I wanted something bright to complement the gnocchi, and my eggplant caprese was the right choice. My new kitchen trick is using cooling racks to crisp veggies, like eggplant, in half the time. The combo of the crisp eggplant, tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and basil always hits the spot—whether as an appetizer or as a side dish. Too many cooks spoil the broth? Not in our house. We may disagree about removing the rendered fat (I won’t in the fear that my father may come back to haunt me for “taking away the flavor”), how to chop onions, and if using canned tomatoes with citric acid is really the end of the world. Okay...we disagree a bunch…but we are learning and teaching, teaching and learning...well. Foodies of New England

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Eggplant Caprese Ingredients: 1 eggplant-sliced Olive oil Fresh mozzarella-sliced 2 tomatoes-sliced Small bunch of fresh basil-julienne cut Balsamic vinegar DIRECTIONS Marinade: 1. Arrange sliced eggplant on baking rack to crisp. 2. Brush with olive oil. 3. Sprinkle with kosher salt. 4. Bake for 30 minutes on 350 (leave oven on). 5. Place on cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. 6. Layer the eggplant with sliced mozzarella and tomato. 7. Drizzle a little olive oil over top. 8. Return to the oven for an additional 15 minutes. 9. Top with chopped basil and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

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Gnocchi de Semolina Ingredients: 1 quart of milk 1 tsp salt 2 1/2 cups semolina ďŹ&#x201A;our 2 eggs 1 cup of Parmesan cheese 1/2 stick of melted butter parchment paper cookie sheet DIRECTIONS 1. Bring a quart of milk to a boil, once boiled turn burner down to low. 2. Add a pinch of salt. 3. Slowly stir semolina ďŹ&#x201A;our into the boiled milk. The consistency should be slightly thicker than peanut butter 4. Crack two eggs into a large bowl. 5. Add Parmesan cheese. 6. Add cooked semolina. 7. Combine ingredients thoroughly. 8. Brush parchment lined cookie sheet with butter. 9. Spread the semolina mixture onto the parchment paper. 10. Chill for an hour. 11. Spoon semolina balls onto parchment. 12. Top with more shredded Parmesan cheese. 13. Bake for 30 minutes.

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Sausage and Vodka Cream Sauce Ingredients: olive oil-just enough to make the dutch oven shine 1 lb of sausage 3 sprigs of fresh rosemary 1 bay leaf 2 medium onion 1/2 cup vodka 28 oz can of crushed tomatoes ( I prefer Pastene Kitchen Ready) 1/2 cup romano cheese 1/2 cup asiago cheese 3/4 cup of 1/2 & 1/2 bunch of fresh basil Dutch Oven Small saucepan DIRECTIONS Prep - ten minutes 1. Chop two medium onions. 2. Smash then dice three cloves of garlic. 3. Shred Asiago and Parmesan cheese. 4. Remove sausage from casing. Cook 1. In the small saucepan cook onions until slightly caramelized.(approximately ten minutes) 2. Add garlic to the onions cook an for an additional 2 minutes, then shut down. Simultaneously 1. Heat Dutch Oven to high. 2. Add sausage, rosemary and bay leaf cook until brown. 3. If the sausage has not completed crumbled, help it along with a potato masher. 4. Remove the Rosemary stem and the Bay leaf. 5. Once brown, deglaze with vodka For 6, 7 , 8 and 9; Stir in slowly, incorporating ingredients before adding the next. 6. Add the can of Pastene Kitchen Ready tomatoes. 7. Add caramelized onions and garlic. 8. Add the Asiago and Parmesan cheese. 9. Finish with a cup of half and half. You aren’t limited to serving the gnocchi as it is featured here. Sometimes I undercook gnocchi or macaroni then add it directly into the sauce pot to ﬁnish to soak up more ﬂavor.

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BeesA sense of terroir, not terror Written by John Lawrence Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

When I meet with someone and mention that I keep bees, the most common reaction is one of fearâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the memory of getting stung. Now, in my third year of keeping bees, I tend to think less about bee stings and more about how my bees are affected by the special characteristics of local geography.

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lant genetics and local terroir will impart unique ﬂavor proﬁles on our harvested honey. It’s an interesting thing to consider, and it may change your opinion about the beauty of the bee. I imagine that Hollywood is much to blame for instilling fear of bees into many, with depictions of Friar Tuck using bees to defend a village in a recent movie adaptation of Robin Hood. Trust me, honeybees are wonderful and like people, they will be kind and gentle if that’s how they are treated.

I, too, had reservations the first time I opened the hive hearing the vibrant hum of twenty thousand pulsating bees. All that Hollywood baggage came into play as I worked my way through inspection. Over time though, my fears have lessened as I have observed the workings of a healthy hive. Honeybees have a calming sense of order and place. I can easily imagine myself when I hit the “rocking chair” age, sitting restfully and watching the goings on at a beehive. The constant flying in and out of a hive is reminiscent of Chicago’s O’Hare Airport. It seems like controlled and organized mayhem, and it is oh so captivating. The frenzy that is observable on the outside is no less frantic on the inside. The worker bees have developed a sophisticated system of dancing around the hive. A honeybee that returns to the hive will do a dance telling its hive-mates where to find water, nectar and pollen. There may be multiple dances going on at the same time by worker bees. One dance tells of a nectar source and another mapping out a route to the nearest pond. (Continued on page 110)

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With records of beekeeping going back to 1400 B.C., much has been observed in bee behavior. Bee behavior and the production of honey is certainly a reflection of the location of the hive. A few years back when I took my first classes at the Worcester County Beekeepers Association’ Bee School, I was admittedly quite clueless on the subject of beekeeping. Listening to MA Bee Inspector Ken Warchol and the many passionate members of the WCBA will help the timid get through the early years of beekeeping. I remember Ken waxing on passionately about how spring honey was much different in flavor and color from fall honey. He spoke of how beehives located near apple orchards produced honey with vast differences in flavor, aroma and color when compared to those located near cranberry bogs. This is fascinating stuff to someone who has spent their life cooking and sourcing the best available ingredients for a living. Two years ago I had an experience with my bees and the honey that we produced that I liken to a light bulb going off. Our batch illustrated how the local floral and fauna affects the characteristics of honey. It was the summer of 2010. We had sowed over 5 species and 100 plus sunflowers. They were magnificent to watch, towering yellow mammoths with soft red tones. What never occurred to me was how these gorgeous flowers would later affect our honey crop.

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Our honey was nutty and viscous, with a nose that was straightforward and had strong herbal overtones. No, I’m not talking about wine, as the term terroir is often used. Our honey had taken on distinct nuances from having so many sunflowers in such close proximately. This year we don’t have sunflowers, but we do have eleven beds of assorted herbs, and we are having a banner year of nasturtiums. We can’t wait to see how varied and unique the flavor profiles of our harvest will be when affected by the local flora. After three years of keeping bees, I am more cognizant of how much I have learned from the WCBA, Ken Warchol, and from my own experience. I am also aware of how much I still don’t know about beekeeping. I cooked for a living for ten plus years before I called myself a Chef. I use the same thinking in my role as a keeper of bees. That’s just it, I’m a keeper of bees, not yet a beekeeper. Perhaps after a few more seasons and a few more years at bee school, I also will be able to proudly say I am a beekeeper and have a deeper understanding of how our environment plays a role in the foods that we produce. John Lawrence is co-owner & executive chef of Peppers Fine Catering and a member of the Worcester County Beekeepers Association

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Whiskey Under Loch & Key

Cask to Glass I

Written by Ryan Maloney Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ryan Maloney has over twenty ﬁve years experience in the spirits industry. He has appeared in and on the cover of several international whisk(e)y and trade publications. He is the “go to” guy for all things alcohol related for the Phantom Gourmet T.V. and radio show. He has done consulting work for major players in the beverage ﬁeld. He is the founder of The Loch & K(e)y Society and the creator of www.lochandkey.com a forum based whisk(e)y website. However, Ryan is most recognized as the owner of Julio’s Liquors in Westborough MA, where amongst other accolades he has been twice awarded “Retailer of the Year”.

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like what I do. Some might say I like it too much. One of the beneﬁts of my job is picking barrels of spirits, mostly whiskey, cognac, and tequila. One day while tasting barrel samples, I had this question pop into my head: “Why can’t everyone enjoy whiskey straight from the barrel?” From that very simple question arose the “Cask to Glass” initiative. My mission was clear: to get distilleries to bottle as close to what was in the barrel or cask as I could. But what would that mean? I had to set up some basic parameters to explain what I was looking to accomplish. Here’s what I came up with: First, there should be no caramel coloring. This stuff is in everything from soda to whiskey and it does play its part in creating a uniform golden color so there are no shades of difference from one bottle to another. Many spirits use caramel coloring to portray a sense of “age” to the buying public. Tequila provides the best example. If you are buying a 1.75l of tequila for $20 and it is gold in color—that’s not from age, it’s from caramel coloring. Second, the bottling must be cask-strength. This is exactly what it says: no water added, and just as it comes out of the barrel. Now, this means that there will be some pretty high-proof whiskies. I just bottled a barrel of Willett Bourbon that was 123.4 proof! Please, if you have a bottle whiskey with this high of a proof, don’t drink it straight (as we have discussed in previous columns)—it is okay to add water. The point to getting cask-strength is that you can add the amount of water you wish. Think of cask-strength as whiskey concentrate. (Continued on page 114)

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Third, and probably the most important, is that the whiskey should be unchilled filtered. For some of you, the next question is, “what is chill filtration and why don’t you want it?” Distilled whiskey contains fatty acids. According to Lincoln Henderson, Master Distiller for Angel’s Envy Bourbon, the fatty acids account for up to 25% of the whiskies’ flavor. Unfortunately, since they are “fatty” they also congeal when they get cold, causing whiskey to get cloudy. Since many people drink with their eyes, cloudy whiskies were being sent back or simply sat on store shelves because people thought there was something wrong. Chill filtration was developed by Teacher’s Scotch to combat this “problem”. Whiskey was chilled to almost freezing and run though a fine filter. Since the fatty acids congealed at such a cold temperature, they were left behind and the whiskey was crystal clear. However, most experts agree that the whiskey was not as flavorful. The best way I have found to explain this is to compare it to soup. After you make soup and you put it in the refrigerator, all the fat rises and congeals on the top. Many people take some of the fat off, but no one takes all the fat away. Why? Because the soup will have less flavor—and the same is true for whiskey.

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The cloudy whiskey problem can partly be solved by bottling the whiskey at a higher proof. Whiskey with a proof over 92 usually will not cloud up on the shelf, but still may cloud when cold water or ice is added. The main point is not to panic if your whiskey is cloudy because it means you are getting a more flavorful and less processed product. So, for the last couple of years, I’ve been on a personal crusade to get more distilleries to adopt the “Cask to Glass” way of thinking. Many of the barrels I’ve had bottled for the Loch & K(e)y Club have been either cask-strength or unchilled filtered—and in some cases both. The best part is that many distilleries have released more whiskies with higher proofs and even more have opted not to chill filter anymore. The best example of this new way of thinking (or, really, a return to whiskie’s roots) has come from Ian MacMillan, Master Distiller and Blender for Bunnahabhain. Mr. MacMillan has re-released all of the expressions from Bunnahabhain at higher proofs and all unchilled filtered. The new whiskies shine in comparison to their old counterparts. So, the next time you’re out shopping for a new whiskey expression to buy, reward Mr. MacMillan and the other distilleries that have embraced the “Cask to Glass” way—your taste buds will thank you.

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Wines of Distinction

Wines

Inspired by the Gods Q

Written by Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Known in restaurant circles as The Wine Guy, Domenic is focused on food and wine education. Domenic’s enthusiasm and passion for food and wine, propelled him into a local TV wine education series, The Wine Guy, in which he took viewers on a tour of California and Italy’s wine regions and historic destinations. In addition to being the editor and publisher of Foodies of New England magazine, Dom is the host of Foodies of New England, a dynamic and educational TV show. The show features New England’s best, award-winning chefs, and their signature recipes.

uestion: Given the choice between an “organic” wine and a “regular” wine, which would you choose, and why?

This question has confounded many wine drinkers for quite some time, mainly because the benefits of drinking organic versus non-organic wines are not very apparent to many consumers, and organic wines typically are more expensive than the alternative. By the way, what, exactly, is the “alternative” to an organic wine? That is, what’s so bad about non-organic wine? To answer these questions, we first need to know the basic differences between organic and non-organic wine; specifically, what does an organic wine not have that a non-organic wine does have, or vice-versa? According to the Organic Consumers Association, the biggest distinction between organic and non-organic is the addition of something called sulfites in non-organic wine. All wine has some sulfites; both organic and non-organic have naturally-occurring sulfites that are inherent in the soil, but non-organic wine often contains naturally-occurring plus added sulfites. Sulfites, or sulfur dioxide (SO2), are used as preservatives in wines. They demonstrate strong, antimicrobial properties and have antioxidants, which often allow wines to maintain their berry flavors after being opened and exposed to oxygen. To illustrate what happens to wine after the cork is pulled, imagine cutting an apple, letting it sit out until it turns brown from oxidation, and then eating it. The result is an acidic, bitter taste, void of the once-fruity appeal. The same is true of wine that has been exposed to oxygen for too long; the soft, berry characteristics are muted and the predominant flavors are now tannic acid and a subtle toasted, nutty quality (in some examples). The addition of sulfites typically slows down the onset of oxidation after wine has been exposed to air, leaving the fruit flavors intact for a longer period of time for the drinker to enjoy. So, in effect, sulfites actually help to make wine more enjoyable, right? If that’s the case, then why are sulfites commonly blamed for headaches and allergic reactions in a small population of wine drinkers? Are sulfites getting a bad rap? How Much is Too Much? In Europe, the largest wine-producing region in the world, the allowable limit of sulfites in red wine is 160 parts per million (ppm), 210 ppm for white wine, and 400 ppm for sweet wines.

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Levels set forth by the US are similar to those of the European Union (EU). As we look at these allowable levels of sulfites, it becomes clear that red wines have fewer allowable amounts of sulfites than white wines and sweet wines, yet people associate headaches mainly with red wines. Yet, how could a wine with fewer sulfites give a person a headache, while the wine with more sulfites does not? Could it be that there is something else in the wine that causes headaches other than sulfites? In considering this question, take into account another surprising fact: Wine contains about ten times fewer sulfites than most dried fruits, which may contain sulfite levels up to 1,000 ppm. So, if you eat dried fruit on a regular basis and don’t have adverse reactions, you are probably not allergic to sulfites. Coincidentally, when asked if they suffer from headaches after eating raisins or other dried fruit, “sulfite adverse” redwine drinkers routinely answer “no.” So, what’s the missing link? Well, there are many other compounds in red wine, such as histamines and tannins, which are more likely connected to the headache phenomenon. A big factor is the presence of raw alcohol, which contributes to the onset of dehydration and, consequently, headaches. Label Lingo What about wine labels? What can we as consumers look for to help us along the path of selecting wines that boast any of the following on the label: Organic, organically-grown, no detectable sulfites, or no added sulfites? Let’s go over the language. First, a wine can make the claim, “sulfite-free” or “no added sulfites” (meaning, the wine may contain naturally-occurring sulfites, or sulfites that are produced naturally in the soil). However, if sulfites are added, and the total sulfite level in the wine is above 10 ppm

(remember, parts per million), then the label must make the statement “contains sulfites.” Sulfite-Free: Is There Such a Thing? Wines that are said to be “sulfite-free” must indicate “no detectable sulfites” on the label. There is a tremendous amount of controversy and debate in the wine industry as to whether such wines really exist. The USDA established the “no detectable sulfites” criteria for wine-

makers who boast sulfite-free claims, but the criteria is based on whether current FTA analysis is sensitive enough to detect the presence of sulfites at such low levels. If the equipment cannot detect sulfites, then the wine is said to have “no detectable sulfites”, and that term – and never “sulfite-free” – is to appear on the label. (Continued on page 118)

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No Added Sulfites This simple phrase is just the way it wounds: If the vineyard did not add sulfites to the winemaking process, then the wine label may stipulate “no added sulfites”. The assumption here is that there may be “naturally-occurring” sulfites in the wine that develop during the fermentation process. Inspiration from On-High Of course, keeping sulfite levels at a minimum is certainly better than adding sulfites, but, as we said, many winemakers add sulfites to slow oxidation and preserve the berry flavor in wine. Yet, how many of them can actually create an organic wine (one without added sulfites) that has a rich, abundantlyfruity taste? Well, Cantine Volpi (Vineyard of the Wolves) from Piedmont, Italy, scored so strong in the “This wine has so much flavor, I can’t believe it’s organic” department, that their wines are said to be inspired by Hera, the Goddess of Abundance and queen of Olympus’ gods. (Note, however, that the wine label is titled “Era”, not “Hera”. This is mainly because the Italian alphabet doesn’t contain the letter “H”). Cantine Volpi established its organic portfolio in 1999. At that time, there was great public concern for environmental issues. Because they implemented the right organic winemaking techniques from the very beginning, they have never had to change their winemaking models. The Volpi Vineyards As you may have guessed by the various grape varietals on the labels, Cantine Volpi’s vineyards and pressing facilities are located in different regions of Italy, including Veneto (Pinot Grigio), Le Marche (Sangiovese), Abruzzo (Montepulciano), Apulia (Primitivo, the “original” Zinfandel) and Sicily (Nero d’Avola and Syrah). We tasted all of the varietals mentioned above. The Pinot Grigio exhibited bright citrus apple and yellow pear flavors and was a little richer and fuller on the palate than most in its price class (around $11.99). Most Sangiovese wines come from Tuscany, but this one is from Le Marche, a region southeast of Tuscany on the Adriatic Sea. This version boasts ripe cherry and raspberry fruits, light oak, and a subtle herby nuance. The Montepulciano is from Abruzzo, the mountainous region of Italy just below Le Marche and east of Rome. Grown

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on the base of the foothills of the Apennine Mountains, the grapes used to produce this wine are clean, free of mold, and get lots of bright sun, which elevates their sugar content. The result is an intense black cherry and boysenberry fruit profile, with subtle tobacco and aromas of sweet oak. ERA’s Sicilian vineyards offer extraordinary taste and quality. If you like more fruit and less oak, the Nero d’Avola is for you. It bursts with flavors of crushed red cherries and has a long, lingering finish tempered by bright, crisp acidity. The Syrah is strongly based on the French style; lean, spicy, and nicely fruited. It’s not like the jammy Californian style of Syrah, which can be too rich and powerful for most food (and we’re about food!). If you like bold, intense, fragrant wines, you’ll forever be a fan of the Primitivo, Apulia’s best-known red. This wine is rustic, earthy, and very typically Italian, demonstrating blackberry and dried cherry flavors, spicy oak, tobacco leaf, and cocoa elements. The finish is softly tannic; just enough to stand up to your favorite Italian dishes or grilled meat. The Organic Process Volpi’s team works very closely with its growers, implementing a form of “clean” agriculture that eliminates the need for pesticides and chemical substances in accordance with the rules set forth by organic authorities. The main objective is to maintain a healthy and biologically active soil. To that end, Volpi only uses natural fertilizers, such as composted animal manure, and other plant varieties are allowed to grow in the vineyard in order to promote biodiversity. In addition, the soil in the vineyard is not treated with weed killer. To prevent the development of mildew, Volpi sprays with sulfur and copper, two minerals which naturally protect the wines against mildew. All planting, pruning, and picking is done by hand, so there is no risk of chemical or fuel spills associated with machinery. Winemaking Volpi’s team of winemakers (oenologists) is lead by Federico Riolfo. “We follow a natural philosophy and minimize the use of sulfur dioxide as an antioxidant,” Riolfo indicates. “Our wines are certified by the Italian Institute for Ethical and Environmental Certification (ICEA), which guarantees the observance of the EU’s organic and biological standards,” he adds. The American equivalent of the ICEA is the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), which accredits the ICEA

in accordance with the regulations set forth by the National Organic Program (NOP). And Riolfo maintains that it isn’t just the agricultural aspect of production that undergoes ICEA accreditation: “Each stage of our production is certified, from the initial agricultural and planting process, to vinification, then storage, and, finally, bottling.”

The reasons may be based in agriculture, science, viticulture, or a combination of all three. Whichever attribute is most responsible for the excellence of these wines, don’t forget to thank Mother Nature or neglect to pay proper homage to the powers on high, lest ye upset the Goddess of Abundance, and bear the wrath of the Queen of the Gods!

Bottling ERA wines are bottled at Volpi’s state-of-the-art winery in Tortona, Piedmont. While it may be logistically challenging to transport the wine from one facility all the way to Tortona, this is necessary, according to Riolfo, to guarantee the highest quality of product for ERA’s customers. “The facility in Tortona is logistically the most efﬁcient for stocking and shipping wines that are coming from many of our different vineyards around Italy,” he says. “The winery beneﬁts from a brand new, fully-automatic bottling line and all wines are stocked in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks.”

- Publisher.

Cantine Volpi also possesses ISO certification, as well as International Food Standard (IFS) and British Retail Consortium (BRC) certifications. With all of those certifications and credibility, one thing should stand out to foodies: Taste. ERA wines – uncorked – are among the richest, most fruit-generous, complex, and layered organic wines ever created.

Cantine Volpi’s ERA Organic Wines are Foodies-Approved: Pinot Grigio (91 Points) Sangiovese (89 Points) Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (89 Points) Primitivo (90 Points) Nero d’Avola (89 Points) Syrah (90 Points) ERA Wines are produced by: Cantine Volpi, s.r.l. Strada Statale 10, No. 72 Tortona (AL) Italy ERA Wines are available through: Global Wines, Inc., Worcester, Massachusetts 01604 See www.GlobalWinesInc.com for a store near you.

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Something to Drink

TAVOLINO’S

Knobbin’ for Apples Who doesn’t love fall in New England? The air gets a touch cooler, the leaves turn gold, and it’s time to go apple picking. It’s a great transition period before the cold of winter. For foodies and beverage people, it’s the transition from lighter dishes to heartier fare, for wine drinkers the transition to more robust reds, and for cocktail drinkers the switch from vodka and gin to bourbon ( at least it is for me).

Written by Richard Beams Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Rich Beams has been a bartender for 20 years at places such as Tweeds Pub, Jillians, Holiday InnWorcester, Nuovo, and is currently The Grill on the Hill at Green Hill Golf Course. He is also an instructor at DrinkMaster Bartending School in Worcester, Framingham, and Boston. With his passion and knowledge for wine, Rich has written many articles sharing his thoughts and suggestions. He is currently a member of The Taste of the Nation comittee.

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The course of my day had led me to Westborough around dinner time, so I stopped at Tavolino’s for a bite to eat. I knew to expect a few things when I got there—outstanding food, stellar service, and a great wine list. What I didn’t expect was how creative their cocktail list would be or that I would find a cocktail that I would just have to write about: Knobbin for Apples, a wordplay on the fact that they use Knob Creek Bourbon, a high-quality, small batch 9-year-old whiskey. This drink is a muddled cocktail, which is a little bit more labor intensive than a regular cocktail. Muddling involves putting the garnish in the glass first, and then mashing it up with a muddler (much like a mortar and pestle) and then building the drink around it. It shows a real dedication to quality to put a drink like this on your menu. The cocktail starts out with some diced apples and some cranberries in the glass. They are then mashed up, releasing the essence of the fruits. The glass is then filled with ice and a magical combination of 1 oz. of Knob Creek Bourbon, ½ oz. of Apple Pucker Schnapps, a quick squeeze of honey, and a little splash of cranberry juice. When it was served to me, the first thing I noticed is that it looks like fall in New England in a glass, with the color from the whiskey and the cranberry juice and the pieces of apple and cranberry floating around. Even better than that, it tastes like fall. The whiskey gives it a solid backbone and warms you up just a touch, but the Apple Schnapps, honey, fruit, and juice provide just enough sweetness to balance and smooth out the whole cocktail. Even if you’re not a whiskey drinker, you will enjoy this cocktail. From the first taste, I couldn’t wait to tell my friends and my students about this cocktail, not only to enjoy it, but to see how a great cocktail is created. By the way, the things I did expect when I walked in did not disappoint. The wine list was impressive, the service was great, and the food outstanding (I even ate the asparagus that was on my plate, which is a first). And now I know that I can expect a great cocktail when I go there, too. I’m going to plot out more of my days to end up in Westborough to have a nice meal and go Knobbin for Apples at Tavolino’s.

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