Foodies of New England Summer 2014

®

Summer 2014

Ethnic Greatness New England’s Culinary Cultures

Gluten Free Ethnic Recipes Best in Chef’s Tables Communal Dining at it’s Best

North Star Sheep Farm Sustainable Sheep Farming in Maine

The History of...

Curry

Scan to go to the Foodies of New England website

Vanilla and Spice… and Peach, So Nice!

Introducing SKYY Vodka’s Newest Fruit Infusions…

Georgia Peach & Vanilla Bean Since its inception in 1992, SKYY Vodka has been recognized as the brand of quality, style and innovation.

State-of-the-art quadruple distillation HUK [YPWSL ÄS[YH[PVU NP]LZ :2@@ [OPZ distinctively smooth quality.

Only SKYY is the pure tasting vodka that is ideal straight or as a perfect start to any cocktail.

Try some today and taste the SKYY difference.

www.skyy.com www.skyinfusions.com

Banquets, Catering, In-Home Chef

Table 3 Restaurant Group has the perfect setting for your wedding, shower, family reunion, private party, or business meeting. Located in idyllic Sturbridge, Massachusetts, Table 3 has several options to choose from including our newest post and beam function venue for groups up to 125 people. Whether it’s a catered event or one of our three locations, our experienced staff will coordinate everything to perfection, making sure your event is special and memorable. All of the items on our menus are carefully selected and prepared by our executive chef to ensure the finest quality for your guests. Visit us at T3Chef.com to learn more or call us at 774-241-8450.

TABLE 3 RESTAURANT GROUP

CHEFS

CATERING

420 Main Street Ǧ Sturbridge, MA 01566 Ǧ 774.241.8450 Ǧ T3Chef.com

®

Summer 2014 Contributors Publisher: Mercury Media & Entertainment, LLC Managing Editor: Domenic Mercurio Contributing Editors: Julie Grady Thomas Jodie Lynn Boduch Christopher Dufault Director of Social Media: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Writers and Contributors: Matt Webster, Alina Eisenhauer, Ellen Allard, Adam Gerhart, Elaine Pusateri Cowan, Jodie Lynn Boduch, Peggy Bridges, Ryan Maloney, Christopher Rovezzi, Christine Whipple, Sandy Lashin-Curewitz, David Kmetz, Brad Schwarzenbach, Stacy Horowitz, Kelley Kassa, Isabela Bessa Pelto, Jeff Cutler, Tom Verde, Eric Kalwarczyk, Sarah Connell, Billy Manzo Professional Photography: Scott Erb & Donna Dufault Erb Photography Art Director: Rick Bridges Richard Bridges Design Website: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Account Managers: Carol Adlestein Foodies of New England Magazine Box 380 Sturbridge MA 01566 domenic@mercurymediallc.com scott@erbphoto.com jodie@muchadomarketing.com rick@richardbridgesdesign.com All content ©2014, Mercury Media Entertainment All Rights Reserved Printed in USA -VVKPLZ VM 5L^ ,UNSHUK HZZ\TLZ UV ÄUHUJPHS YLZWVUZPIPSP[` MVY LYYVYZ PU HK]LY[PZLTLU[Z 5V WVY[PVU VM -VVKPLZ VM 5L^ ,UNSHUK HK]LY[PZPUN VY LKP[VYPHS TH` IL YLWYVK\JLK PU ^OVSL VY PU WHY[ ^P[OV\[ [OL L_WYLZZ ^YP[[LU WLYTPZZPVU VM [OL W\ISPZOLY ;OL PUMVYTH[PVU JVU[HPULK PU [OPZ W\ISPJH[PVU PZ ILSPL]LK [V IL HJJ\YH[L OV^L]LY [OL W\ISPZOLY KVLZ UV[ N\HYHU[LL P[Z HJJ\YHJ` ;OL VWPUPVUZ L_WYLZZLK I` V[OLYZ ^P[OPU [OPZ W\ISPJH[PVU HYL UV[ ULJLZZHYPS` [OVZL VM [OL W\ISPZOLY VY P[Z LTWSV`LLZ )` HJJLW[PUN HK]LY[PZPUN ULP[OLY -VVKPLZ VM 5L^ ,UNSHUK UVY 4LYJ\Y` 4LKPH ,U[LY[HPUTLU[ PZ LUKVYZPUN VY N\HYHU[LLPUN [OL X\HSP[` VM ZLY]PJL VY WYVK\J[Z ^P[OPU [OVZL HK]LY[PZLTLU[Z ,]LY` LMMVY[ PZ THKL [V LUZ\YL [OH[ [OL HK]LY[PZLTLU[Z JVTL MYVT YLW\[HISL JVTWHUPLZ OV^L]LY ^L JHUUV[ [HRL YLZWVUZPIPSP[` MVY OV^ HU HK]LY[PZLY KLHSZ ^P[O [OL W\ISPJ

Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/ FoodiesofNewEngland

7HSHR 7HRVYH MYVT ;OHSP 5L^ /H]LU *;

Follow us on Twitter @ FoodiesofNE

Foodies of New England

5

Contents Features

14

Ethnic Dining

14

New England’s Culinary Diversity

44

A Butcher’s Tale

Central Meat Market in Providence

54

Cooking Up a Career

First year culinary student Zachary Hathaway

62

Ocean House

Elegance and Adventure Awaits

62

66

North Star Sheep Farm Natural, Sustainable Sheep Farming in Maine

76

Chef’s Tables

A True Communal Experience

90

Queen of the Mountain Maplebrook Farm Cheese

102

Unjunked Candy Healthy Sweets

66

*V]LY! +VSZV[ )P)PT)VW ^ )\SNVNP ILLM MYVT :HWWVYV 2VYLHU )HYILJ\L :\ZOP

6

Foodies of New England

76

Departments

50

History of...

50

86

Curry

58

Gluten Free

A Mexican Thai Beach Party!

74

Pasta (and Life): 101 The “F” Word

86

Food for Thought Raising Foodie Kids

94

Healthy at Home A lotta Frittata

106

Sweet Sensations Portuguese Poached Eggs

108

Brew Review

Smoke Flavored Brews

111

Whiskey-Under Loch & Key

94

Oui, Oui Whisk(e)y

116

Wines of Distinction

Brachetto - A Lively Summer Sweetie!

120

Liberating Libations Forbidden Frozen Peach

111 Foodies of New England

7

redpassion Bold, passionate and completely unique, Campari makes a dry and refreshing cocktail that can be enjoyed anytime. Hand-crafted according to the same secret family recipe invented in Italy in 1860, Campari is a one-of-a-kind, refreshing spirit.

Feel the passion.

WATERMELON CAMPARI GRANITA Chef Enrico Giovanello Avellino Restaurant, Sturbridge, MA

1 lb. rind and seeds removed 2 tablespoons superfine sugar 4 tablespoons Campari ½ teaspoon lime juice Serves 4 Puree the watermelon in a blender or food processor.

Heat the sugar, lime juice and Campari in ¼ cup water in a saucepan until dissolved. Add the watermelon and mix well.

Pour into a plastic container, cover and freeze.

Stir every 30 minutes with a fork during freezing to break up the ice crystals and give a better texture.

Keep in the freezer until ready to serve. Serve in a martini glass with fresh mint.

Visit us at: www.campari.com Like us on Facebook at: facebook.com/campari

Rich, Warm & Inviting... Л▒Л▒Л▒╚ў╚љ╚љ╚х ╔ю╚Б╚љ ╚Є╚ел┐╚љ╔Љ╚љ╚й╚Ѓ╚љ -AKE YOUR CUSTOMERS FEEL WELCOME AND SPECIAL EVERY TIME THEY VISIT YOUR RESTAURANT OR BAR WITH THE lNEST IN WOODWORKING AND CRAFTSMANSHIP &ROM THE UNSEEN STRUCTURAL SOUNDNESS TO THE OBVIOUS ATTENTION LAVISHED ON EVERY DETAIL

EACH &INE ,INES PROJECT IS A TESTAMENT TO THE TRADITIONS OF lNE WOODWORKING 7HETHER YOU WANT AN EXPANDED BAR AREA FOR YOUR RESTAURANT A PERFECTLY DESIGNED WINE RACK OR A CUSTOM KITCHEN FOR YOUR HOME &INE ,INES HAS THE VISION EXPERIENCE AND ABILITIES TO MAKE YOUR DREAM A REALITY Ask about our unique cutting and serving boards!

,IKE US ON &ACEBOOK WWW FACEBOOK COM lNELINESWOOD

4 Old Stagecoach Road s 3TURBRIDGE -! s

www.№гЂnelineswood.com

LETTER

FROM THE

EDITOR

Culinary Cultures and the Ethnic Influence

(TLYPJH (SS VM V\Y HUJLZ[VYZ JHTL MYVT MHY HUK ^PKL [V IL WHY[ VM P[ ;OL` ^HU[LK [OL VWWVY[\UP[PLZ H IL[[LY SPML MYLLKVT MYVT VWWYLZZPVU [OL HIPSP[` [V W\YZ\L [OLPY KYLHTZ HUK UV[ ZVTLVUL LSZL»Z

10

Foodies of New England

;OHURM\SS` [OL` KPK JVTL ILJH\ZL [OL PUÅ\LUJL VM HSS [OVZL UH[PVUZ HUK J\S[\YLZ on our foodie landscape has been indescribable.

From the variety of foods and unusual methods of preparation to the use of unknown and obscure ingredients, possibly no one single element has had such a noticeable (and enjoyable) impact on American life as the culinary infusion of its building-block cultures.

Indeed, how many of us have heard the unending recollections of our neighbors, family, and friends having just returned from excursions of epicurean delight? On HUK VU ^L OLHY KYHTH[PJ HUK WHZZPVUH[L YLÅLJ[PVUZ VM ¸[OL MVVK [OL PUJYLKPISL food” they all experienced while touring the world’s most famous countries, all of which have sadly bid farewell time and again to their countrymen as they departed for the American life – their loss, our gain.

America is better for it. As we stroll any medium or large city in the Land of the Free, we have access to the world’s most delicious culinary offerings, thanks to those brave and courageous souls who made the big trip. In this issue, you’ll peY\ZL Q\Z[ H ML^ VM [OL O\UKYLKZ VM [OL ^VYSK»Z ÅH]VYZ HUK Z[`SLZ VM ,[OUPJ +PUPUN that dot the culinary landscape of our great nation. )L`VUK ÅH]VY HUK [HZ[L [OLYL»Z [OL JHTHYHKLYPL [OH[ V[OLY UH[PVUZ OH]L [H\NO[ us. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the *OLM»Z ;HISL. If you’re lucky, your fa]VYP[L YLZ[H\YHU[ OHZ Q\Z[ Z\JO H JVa` ZVJPHSS` M\SÄSSPUN HUK WHSH[L WSLHZPUN JVTWVnent. Typically located in the kitchen, the Chef’s Table is where foodies get together to let the chef serve those dishes of which he or she is most proud, usually done in a themed fashion. This type of communal dining is very European in nature, and tips its hat to the practices of the world’s many other cultures, all emphasizing the JVUJLW[ VM MHTPS` MYPLUKZ HUK [VNL[OLYULZZ" ZWLJPÄJHSS` [OL PKLH [OH[ MVVK IYPUNZ and keeps-people together.

Two fantastic examples of Chef’s Tables restaurants can be found in West SpringÄLSK 4HZZHJO\ZL[[Z HUK +V]LY 5L^ /HTWZOPYL 1VPU V\Y V^U +H]PK 2TL[a PU H truly in-depth review of the fabulous Lattitude Restaurant on Memorial Drive in >LZ[ :WYPUNÄLSK HUK YLHK :HYHO *VUULSS»Z YLÅLJ[PVUZ HUK PUZPNO[ PU[V :[HNLZ H[ One Washington in Dover, New Hampshire. Reservations are recommended for the coveted space at their Chef’s Tables.

Our review of New England’s Best Ethnic Restaurants will leave you groping for your car keys and GPS. Follow Wales’-own Julie Grady as she takes you to Los Andes, a Rhode Island delight that is loaded with Peruvian delicacies. Then, get together with Kelley Kassa for another Rhode Island treasure, :WHPU 9LZ[H\YHU[.

David Kmetz tours Vermont and ends up at ( :PUNSL 7LIISL for delightful Dim Sum / Chinese. Korean food abounds for Brad Schwarzenbach at :HWWVYV in Westboro, Massachusetts Korean, and Jeff Cutler explores the best that India has to offer at ;OHSP in New Haven, Connecticut.

:WYPUN :JHSSVWZ :OYPTW 5LZ[Z ZLL YLJPWL VU WHNL

Foodies of New England

11

Brow-raising features in this issue include Peg Bridges’ visit to North Star Sheep Farm in Maine. Get an insider’s perspective on the world of haute cuisine in (U 0U[LY]PL^ ^P[O H )\[JOLY by Billy Manzo, and then get inside a would-be chef’s head and let our own Tom Verde clue you in on what it’s like to embark on the exciting world of culinary arts, in this 3-part feature on *VVRPUN \W H *HYLLY! ;OL 3PML VM H :[\KLU[ *OLM. Then, Stacy Horowitz brings you to Bennington, Vermont, to tour Maplebrook Farm, an incredible artisan cheese producer KLKPJH[LK [V [OL WYVK\J[PVU VM [OL ÄULZ[ 0[HSPHU Z[`SL JOLLZLZ PU 5L^ ,UNSHUK Got a sweet tooth but don’t want to blow your diet? Check out our feature on <UQ\URLK *HUK`, a healthier look at tasty treats.

Get into our regular Foodies departments, including Ryan Maloney’s adventures in France, in >OPZRL` <UKLY 3VJO 2L`. Try a delicious warm-weather smoothie made with Skyy Vodka and Dr. Smoothie fruit blends, in Adam Gerhart’s 3PILYH[PUN 3PIH[PVUZ. Of course, the nice weather wouldn’t be nearly so nice without a wonderful wine, so we picked a sweet summer sparkler, northern Italy’s bubbly Brachetto. Read about it in >PULZ VM +PZ[PUJ[PVU. Barrelaged beer? Oh, yes! Our Grand Chancellor of Beer, Matt Webster, concocts a phenomenal beer for foodies to enjoy with all of your favorite BBQ treats, in )YL^ 9L]PL^.

Let’s have another visit with Peg Bridges in -VVK MVY ;OV\NO[, as she extols the ethnic virtues of “Raising Foodie Kids: The Importance of Passing on Traditions.” Then, only our Gluten-Free Diva, Ellen Allard, could create ( 4L_PJHU ;OHP )LHJO 7HY[`, and all gluten free! One delicious and healthy recipe after another! Speaking of healthy, no Foodies issue would be complete without Elaine Cowan’s /LHS[O` H[ /VTL, a marvelous, step-by-step outline of the TVZ[ PU[LUZLS` ÅH]VYLK KPZOLZ `V\»K Z^LHY [OL` JV\SKU»[ HJ[\HSS` IL NVVK for you. ;HRL PU HU PU[YPN\PUN OPZ[VYPJHS WLYZWLJ[P]L VU H ]LY` PUÅ\LU[PHS L[OUPJ ZWPJL with Jodie Boduch in, ;OL /PZ[VY` VM¯ *\YY`. Then, Chef Chris Rovezzi turns up the heat as he introduces Brazilian fusion to his 7HZ[H HUK 3PML feature.

At the end of the foodie day, dessert is never just dessert when Alina Eisenhauer is the chef. Join her in :^LL[ :LUZH[PVUZ, as she prepares the most decadent and easy-to-make sweets!

Whether you’re reading our Ethnic Dining or Chef’s Tables features, our informative and perspective-rich special reports, or our 10 entertaining and recipeloaded departments, there’s so much to see in this important issue of Foodies of New England. So, in the spirit of the great ethnic tradition of “taking it slow,” HUK ^P[O YLZWLJ[ MVY [OL PUÅ\LUJL V\Y MVYLMH[OLYZ OHK VU (TLYPJH»Z KLSPJPV\ZS` diverse culinary landscape, be sure to take in this issue methodically and with the utmost of care, foodies… You don’t want to miss any of the greatness between these covers.

Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Editor/Publisher

12

Foodies of New England

LAKESIDE PHOTO STUDIO

The Publick House has been creating picturesque New England weddings for over 240 years as a full-service destination wedding venue!

RANDALL GARNICK PHOTOGRAPHY

LAKESIDE PHOTO STUDIO

LAKESIDE PHOTO STUDIO

2 Restaurants Č&#x2C6; Bakery & Yankee Gift Shop 10 Private Banquet Rooms for 8 - 275 Guests Č&#x2C6; Garden Tent for up to 220 Guests 2 Gazebos or The Meadow for Your Ceremony Č&#x2C6; 115 Overnight Guest Rooms Č&#x2C6; Outdoor Pool

SHAWN KELLY PHOTOGRAPHY

CREATE YOUR OWN HISTORICAL ROMANCE Listed in the National Register of Historical Places

Í&#x17E;ÍŁÍŁ Â&#x192;Â&#x2039;Â? Â&#x2013;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2013;ÇĄ Â&#x2013;Â&#x2014;Â&#x201D;Â&#x201E;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2039;Â&#x2020;Â&#x2030;Â&#x2021;ÇĄ Í&#x153;Í?ͥ͢͢ Č&#x2C6; Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;ǤÂ&#x2019;Â&#x2014;Â&#x201E;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2039;Â&#x2026;Â?Â&#x160;Â&#x2018;Â&#x2014;Â&#x2022;Â&#x2021;ǤÂ&#x2026;Â&#x2018;Â? Í?njͤÍ&#x153;Í&#x153;ÇŚ Č&#x2C6; Í?ÇŚÍĄÍ&#x153;ͤnjÍ&#x;Í ÍŁÇŚÍŁÍ&#x;Í&#x17E;Í&#x; Â&#x161;Â&#x2013;Ǥ Í&#x17E;ͤ͢ Č&#x2C6; Â&#x2022;Â&#x192;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2022;ĚżÂ&#x2019;Â&#x2014;Â&#x201E;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2039;Â&#x2026;Â?Â&#x160;Â&#x2018;Â&#x2014;Â&#x2022;Â&#x2021;ǤÂ&#x2026;Â&#x2018;Â?

14

Foodies of New England

New England:

A True ‘Foodie’

Melting Pot Written by Domenic D. Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

From the opening of Ellis Island in 1892 to the present day, America has historically welcomed its brethren from lands far and near. Little did the Land of the Free realize just how much the American food landscape would benefit from the influx of taste-makers from around the world!

Foodies of New England

15

Indeed, America has swung its doors open to over 12 million immigrants between 1892 and 1954, and they have made monumental contributions to this nation in so many ways, not the least of which is the PUJYLKPISL PUÅ\LUJL [OL` OH]L OHK VU V\Y UH[PVU»Z PTmense variety of culinary offerings.

In this issue, we explore a handful of New England’s great ethnic foodie destinations. Trouble is, there are literally thousands of worthwhile places a foodie could visit here in New England. So, how do we choose our features? Good question.

We typically focus on the uniqueness and quality VM [OL TLU\ 5H[\YHSS` JSLHUSPULZZ HUK LMÄJPLUJ` [HRL very elevated positions of importance, as well as the consistency in the taste and quality of the menu items.

We also believe that presentation is a very important factor in wowing a foodie, so plating and food styling both play integral roles. From there, we consider the chef’s background, creativity, and sheer culinary abilities. Beyond that, we consider the overall dining experience; that is, how would the atmosphere and service of our choice impress a true foodie?

When considering excellence in ethnic food, howL]LY ^L T\Z[ ÄYTS` JVTTP[ [V ZLSLJ[PUN VUS` [OVZL restaurants and chefs that pay authentic homage to their respective cultures. You may not know it, but many ethnic establishments are not actually authentic, copping out when it comes to quality in order to save money by purchasing pre-made, pre-measured portions and ingredients.

For example, many of us have been to the “Italian” restaurants that spend millions on slick TV commercials, complete with saucy entrées, stereotypical European décor — complete with the featured mandolin-strumming or accordion-squeezing actor. Worse yet, some of those commercials hire phony narrators who couldn’t pull-off an authentic Italian accent unless they’d been marooned on the island of Capri or stranded in a Sicilian orange grove. Not too far away from the TV spots is the actual cuisine, which is quite often a concoction of what an American thinks Italian food should be … for example, did you know that Chicken Parmigiana doesn’t even exist in Italy?

The same is true for many Asian restaurants, which often use the quicker and less-expensive deep-frying and stir-frying methods of preparation, rather than the more traditional approaches, which include poaching, steaming, or boiling. Of course, many Chinese restaurants here in the northeast continue to attract diners who have come to expect what they think is truly authentic Chinese cuisine.

16

Foodies of New England

;V YLZ[VYL [OL MVVKPL MHP[O PU [OL [Y\L L[OUPJ L_WLYPLUJL ^L»]L ZJV\YLK [OL 5L^ ,UNSHUK J\SPUHY` SHUKZJHWL [V ÄUK NLU\PUL examples of epicurean excellence harking back to such countries as Peru, Tibet, Portugal, Korea, India and Spain. In this search, Foodies of New England pays true respect to those cultures which are authentically and enthusiastically represented here in New England.

We’ve laid out some excellent ethnic destinations and now leave it to the good culinary auspices of our foodie readership to follow-up and challenge their super foodie senses with a visit to each of the following authentic ethnic establishments. Take your time, pace yourself, and enjoy the road trip!

FNE.

*SHTZ :HSZH =LYKL I` :WHPU 9LZ[H\YHU[

Foodies of New England

17

18

Foodies of New England

:[LHTLK )SHJR )LHU 7VYR 9PISL[Z

ROCK

&

SOUL Written by David G. Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

W

When one thinks of northern Vermont—“The Northeast Kingdom”— what usually comes to mind? Crisp, deep conifer forests, maple syrup, ski runs off lofty mountains, perhaps a wild game dinner followed by hot cocoa at a chalet in winter, swimming, fishing, or, come summer, boating on Lake Champlain … but not Chinese culinary excellence.

One Chinese restaurant upends those clichéd traditions and has done so successfully for over 15 years. A Single Pebble was established in 1997 in nearby Barre-Montpelier by Steve Bogart. With Chef Steve’s passion and creativity, A Single Pebble soon set a precedent for classic Chinese cuisine in Vermont.

Foodies of New England

19

The concept was expanded to a second location in May 2002, in the heart of Burlington, a short walk from the Church Street Market Place right downtown. Located on Bank Street, the restaurant is unassuming from the outside, set in what looks like a late 19th century house of brick and stone.

Though modest in scale—there are only around a dozen fulltime staff—it is huge in impact and culinary accomplishments, and the true treasures await those who venture inside.

In 2004, A Single Pebble was named “The Best Restaurant in Vermont” by Vermont Magazine. In 2008, A Single Pebble celebrated its eleventh birthday with Chiuho Duval as the present Chef/Owner and they are still going strong today in the spring of 2014.

Founding owner and chef Steve Bogart introduced a conZJPV\ZULZZ VM ÄUL *OPULZL MVVK [V =LYTVU[ HUK KLTVUZ[YH[ed what sophisticated Chinese dining was about with stories and history. In May 2005, Chef Steve invited Chiuho Duval, who was one of the chefs in the kitchen, to join the partnership and gradually passed the restaurant over to her, before VMÄJPHSS` YL[PYPUN OPTZLSM PU (\N\Z[ Since taking over the restaurant, Chef Chiuho, a Taiwan native, has been striving to preserve the legacy of A Single Pebble while also refreshing the menu with modern, simple cooking techniques and highlighting the freshness of the ingredients provided by local farmers. Along with her Chef de Cuisine Charles Clarke and the other kitchen staff, Chef Duval focuses on the composition of each dish to ensure it is as appealing to the eye as well as to the taste buds.

A Single Pebble remains a place that allures diners with warm, friendly service, and mouth-watering menus. It’s a place that is equally welcoming to those who are discovering P[ MVY [OL ÄYZ[ [PTL HZ ^LSS HZ [OVZL ^OV JVTL IHJR HNHPU [V IL a part of the experience. They strive to stay connected with classic and traditional Chinese dishes and cooking methods,

20

Foodies of New England

yet there has been a modern and experimental edge to many of their daily specials. It takes many deft hands to strike such a delicate balance.

The real draw here is the fantastic food (with plenty of vegL[HYPHU VW[PVUZ THU` ^P[O \U\Z\HS UHTLZ `V\ ^VU»[ ÄUK H[ any chain restaurant. Popular dishes include their dumplings (up to 500 made per day), the Ants Climbing a Tree (pork and cellophane noodles), Chop Your Head Off Soup, Double Garlic Broccoli, Five Flavored Chicken, Wu Guak, Poached Green Vegetables with Hong Kong Sauce, Shiny Noodle Shiitake Mushroom & Carrot, Dan Dan Noodles, and an alwayspopular crowd favorite, the Mock Eel (braised shiitake mushrooms in a ginger sauce, crispy and delicious).

Cuisine regions highlighted are Cantonese, Beijing and Sichuan, though they experiment with other regional offerings on occasion. Chef Duval readily admits, “I love Sichuan peppercorns, both the fragrance and taste, plus the pungent JVTIPUH[PVU VM ÄZO ZH\JL HUK SPTL Q\PJL·^OPJO PZ TVYL SPRL the Southwest-border region.” They also serve wine by the glass and make a scrumptious Mai Tai.

A Single Pebble Tasting Menu A specialty of the house is the Chef’s dim sum and Tasting Menu, offered for both lunch and dinner. Dim sum is the traditional Cantonese cuisine made up of “small eats” offering an assortment of savory and sweet dishes, usually steamed or fried. The menu at lunch is $16 per person, for dinner $36 per person and is intended for the whole table to share, family Z[`SL ;OLYL HYL UV[ H Ä_LK U\TILY VM JV\YZLZ HZ P[ ]HYPLZ VU the day and the customers. They can serve from just a few guests to up to 30 at one seating. It averages about eight courses for lunch and ten or more for the dinner option. The Tasting Menu is an excellent way to try a large variety of dishes without having to deliberate over what to order. What is of-

fered is up to the Chef, but they promise: you are in good hands!

Like their traditional family-style service, each dish is brought to the table as soon as it is ready, and at the height of service, they come out hot and fast!

The Tasting Menu is for the entire table and consists of smaller portions of the restaurant’s daily menu fare, as well as any specials. Usually there are plenty of leftovers.

Inspiration The Tasting Menu began with feeding friends and families who came to visit the restaurant who took the brave and bold move to let the Chef decide their meal.

Chef Duval claims “It’s a great way to get good feedback about the new dishes I was making that day and also having our guests taste some of the popular menu items.” By word of the mouth, their popularity spread and they received many more requests from other customers frequently. Eventually Chef and the crew decided they should offer a tasting menu for all their guests as a regular feature.

One of the many challenges in dealing with a long harsh winter climate is the role seasonal availability of ingredients play throughout the year. As locals well know, the growing season is short here, so Chef Duval uses what she can get her hands on that is suitable for both the cuisine and their cooking methods.

That said, there are often sparks and surprises in the Tasting Menu, especially the produce: asparagus, local colorful carrots, radishes, edamame, beets, pumpkins... any and all could be turned into small apps or side dishes, even into sauces or dumplings.

A Single Pebble works closely with importers directly for their mushrooms (dried shiitakes) and seitan, but there are a few rare and exotic items imported from outside the country, or ordered from Chinatown in Manhattan for particular ÅH]VYZ HUK ZLHZVUPUNZ *OLM +\]HS MYLquently reminds her staff (and herself), JVU[PU\LK VU WHNL

*OLM 6^ULY *OP\OV +\]HS

>\ .\HR ;HYV 9VV[ +\TWSPUNZ ^P[O ))8 7VYR ÄSSPUNZ

Foodies of New England

21

Visit Spain by way of

Rhode Island Written by Kelley Lynn Kassa Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

N

New Englanders have Newark, New Jersey, to thank for some of the best Spanish food in the region. Felix Rodriquez, the owner of Spain Restaurant in Cranston, Rhode Island, started in the restaurant industry with his brother in Newark. Unbeknownst to many, the Ironbound section of Newark is home to many excellent Spanish and Portuguese restaurants. In 1987, Felix left New Jersey and brought authentic, traditional Spanish cuisine to New England.

22

Foodies of New England

*OPSL 9\IILK 7VYR ;LUKLYSVPU

Foodies of New England

23

Spanish cuisine is unique. “Many people confuse Spanish cuisine with Mexican,” said William Soriano, manager of Spain. “Spanish food is not spicy like Mexican. It’s a Mediterranean cuisine that is much lighter and focuses on spices that complement the ingredients but don’t over power them.” ;OL ÅH]VYZ HUK ZWPJLZ TVZ[ \ZLK PU :WHUPZO J\PZPUL PUJS\KL garlic, saffron, smoked paprika, and roasted cumin.

The original restaurant was established on the Narragansett Pier, close to the source of the restaurant’s super-fresh ZLHMVVK ,]LU [OV\NO `V\»SS UV^ ÄUK :WHPU PU *YHUZ[VU [OL restaurant still offers fresh, local seafood, mostly from Point Judith, Rhode Island, New Bedford, Massachusetts, and Boston.

“Felix, the owner of Spain, is very passionate about only serving high-quality, fresh ingredients,” said Soriano. “For exHTWSL ^L VM[LU OH]L Z^VYKÄZO VU V\Y ZWLJPHSZ TLU\ )\[ UV[ HSS [OL [PTL >L VUS` VMMLY P[ ^OLU [OL Z^VYKÄZO TLL[Z our standards.”

That high quality of ingredients is on display in Spain’s (both the restaurant and the country) signature dish, Paella Valenciana. This is a large dish (you can only order it for two) and features saffron rice topped with shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, chorizo, chicken, and calamari. “Traditionally paella is served family style and is a nice, bonding dish,” adds Soriano.

24

Foodies of New England

The offerings at Spain aren’t limited to seafood. One popular dish is the Veal Spain, a bone-in Provimi veal loin chop stuffed with lobster, crab, smoked ham and Castilian cheese, then topped with a roasted mushroom Malaga wine sauce.

“Like with our seafood, we use only the highest quality of meats. That’s why we have customers come in for our veal chop or sirloin rather than go to a local steakhouse,” said Soriano.

Since its founding in 1987, Spain has had a commitment to both quality control and attention to detail. The restaurant carefully selects where and how its products are sourced.

When possible, all ingredients are local and organic. And [OL JOLMZ UL]LY \ZL 4:. VY V[OLY ÅH]VY LUOHUJLYZ ;OH[ approach helps deliver consistent dishes. “We have customers who come weekly and those who come for special occasions. We want their experience to be the same delicious meals they expect from Spain.”

A visit to Spain is not complete without trying a few more dishes. Appetizers rely heavily on seafood and include Clams Casino, Mussels or Clams Diablo with Chorizo, Calamari, and Gambas al Ajillo (shrimp sautéed in garlic). Diners can also get non-seafood starters, such as Grilled Spanish Chorizo, Artichoke Hearts, Black Bean Soup, or Spain Salad.

In addition to the Paella and Veal Spain, Spain serves a handful of pasta and vegetarian dishes, a range of chicken

dishes (among them Arroz Con Pollo, Pollo Ajillo and Pollo Al Limon) and sirSVPU Ă&#x201E;SL[ TPNUVU HUK WVYR [LUKLYSVPU There are also several other traditional veal dishes: Corunese, which is veal cutlets sautĂŠed with Portabella mushrooms and cognac sauce; Madrid, veal cutlets in a light egg batter with a white wine and citrus sauce; and Jerez, cutlets served in a sherry brandy sauce and topped with Jamon Serrano and smoked Provolone cheese.

Surprisingly, Spain offers homemade WV[H[V JOPWZ H YHYL Ă&#x201E;UK [OH[ HYL V\[standing. Perhaps less surprising is the house-made sangria, which comes in both red and white. While traditionalists may prefer the red, the white is always a nice summertime drink.

Spain offers both traditional Spanish desserts and desserts found in other cuisines. To stay traditional, opt for the Pera Riojana, a fresh Argentinean pear marinated with raspberries, Rioja, and merlot and served with a scoop of ice JYLHT VY ZLSLJ[ [OL Ă&#x2026;HU [OL :WHUPZO caramel custard. Children and adults alike love the Spanish sorbets, which are fruit sorbets from Spain served in their natural fruit shells.

Regardless of what you choose, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be impressed and transported when dining at Spain.

Spain Restaurant 1073 Reservoir Avenue Cranston, RI 02910 401.946.8686 www.spainrestaurantri.com

7HLSSH =HSLUJPHUH :OYPTW ZLH ZJHSSVWZ JSHTZ T\ZZLSZ JOVYPaV JOPJRLU JHSHTHYP ZHMMYVU YPJL HUK TPSK ZWPJLZ

Foodies of New England

25

A Portuguese Paradise in New Bedford Written by Sandy Lashin-Curewitz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

T

Tucked into the close-knit Portuguese community in New Bedford, MA, home to sailors, artists, musicians, activists, entrepreneurs, and restaurateurs, is Antonioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant & Cafe, where regulars, tourists, and celebrities alike are welcomed, well-cared-for, and sent home with leftovers, as if parting from a visit with family.

26

Foodies of New England

:LHMVVK :[L^ *HZZLYVSL (U[VUPV»Z ( TLKSL` VM SVIZ[LY ZJHSSVWZ ZOYPTW T\ZZLSZ SP[[SLULJRZ HUK JOVWWLK JSHTZ PU H [VTH[V IYV[O

Foodies of New England

27

This eatery is a family affair: sisters Linda Afonso and Ida Martinho, born and raised in New Bedford, opened Antonio’s in 1989, along with their husbands, who are both happen to be named Antonio (and, on top of that, Linda’s husband is named after his father, Antonio Sr.) With three Antonios in the family, the name of their new restaurant was obvious. ;OL ÅH]VYZ HYVTHZ HUK MYPLUKS` Z[HMM evoke visions of mountains and the seashore, boats hauling in the day’s catch, and families baking crusty bread at communal ovens. In another age, immigrants from lands that embrace the Mediterranean and from arid North Africa each left their mark on Portuguese cuisine. Today, this family serves up the generous seafood, chicken, rabbit, and pork dishes of their homeland, prepared with their favorite complements of wine and garlic, all to a very grateful public.

“Ninety-eight percent of our customers are American,” says Linda Afonso of (U[VUPV»Z loyal following. “Portuguese families cook at home. We see them on holidays and special occasions.”

Portuguese home cooking is what’s for dinner (and lunch) at (U[VUPV»Z, and it is what keeps some devotees coming back daily, says Mrs. Afonso. Visitors should prepare for a feast, whether dining in pairs or with a large party.

28

Foodies of New England

“The quest of any traveler is to engage with locals for an authentic experience in a foreign land” Patrons soak in the happy atmosphere, as soon slices of their fresh rustic bread will surely soak up a hearty sauce. Servers expertly navigate tables brimming with full plates and platters, catching up with old friends and making new acquaintances.

On a Saturday evening, I encountered a lively atmosphere, a modest wait for a table, and a well-traveled wine list.

We began with ameijoas e camarão à (U[}UPV»Z, fresh littlenecks in shells, and shrimp sautéed in a rich saffron and toTH[V ZH\JL ^P[O ÄULS` JOVWWLK NHYSPJ Paella was similarly seasoned, but with a subtle, spicy heat, and came with a prize underneath its neat blanket of rice—nearly a whole sweet, tender lobster. And if that was not enough, the paella was also loaded with scallops, mussels, shrimp, littlenecks, and chunks of chicken and beef. Comforting meat and potatoes Portuguese-style, carne à ribatejana stews rosy marinated pork with littlenecks and shrimp, tops it with cubed fried potatoes, and adds pickled vegetables and green olives for a salty exclamation point.

The quest of any traveler is to engage with locals for an authentic experience in a foreign land, and there may be no better way to accomplish this than over a home-cooked meal. The Antonio’s family offers a taste of the typical Portuguese hearth a bit closer to home.

Antonio’s Restaurant & Café 267 Coggeshall Street New Bedford, MA 02746 508.990.3636 www.antoniosnewbedford.com 3P[[SLULJRZ :OYPTW (U[VUPV»Z :H\[tLK ^P[O NHYSPJ PU H aLZ[` ZHMMYVU HUK [VTH[V ZH\JL

Foodies of New England

29

30

Foodies of New England

3HTI *OVWZ 9HJR VM 3HTI OPU[ VM U\[TLN ISHJR J\TPU HUK THJL

Thali

New Haven

A Recipe for Excellence in Indian Cuisine Written by Jeff Cutler Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

W

When riding through New Haven, CT, most people do just that: ride through. But if you’re looking for inventive and tasty Indian food, you’d be well-advised to hop off 95 and drive a mile to Thali New Haven.

Chef Prasad Chirnomula says the menu at Thali—one of three restaurants he operates—is like taking a crash course in Indian cuisine.

Mostly because he’s been inspired by the food of his youth... the food he was raised on.

Foodies of New England

31

7HSHR 7HRVYH 9PJL ÅV\Y K\Z[LK JYPZW ZWPUHJO SLH]LZ Z^LL[ HUK ZWPJ` JPSHU[YV TPU[ JO\[UL`

When Chirnomula talks about his vision for the dishes served at Thali, you’ll hear him explain that ingredients have [V IL MYLZO! SPRL [OL` ^LYL KLSP]LYLK [V `V\Y KVVY ÄYZ[ [OPUN PU the morning. He’ll also say that there has to be a broad selection, so regional dishes retain their unique taste and textures.

It’s as if Chirnomula has transported India to New Haven.

In a way, he has. Coming to the United States with a mere $100 in his pocket, Chirnomula has already opened a family of restaurants, has won tasting competitions, and has been featured in magazines and on television shows. This success hasn’t been by chance—he’s worked hard on the menu and on the philosophy of good food and dining experiences.

He said, “I’ve combined menu selection, elegant space, private dining rooms, and cooking classes, all with smart, knowledgeable service. Food is presented well, local fresh ingredients are being used—ancient recipes with modern presentations. Lavish wines and creative cocktails top off the consistent food we have created at New Haven Thali.”

With his mother as his culinary hero, Chirnomula makes sure he remains curious and excited about all foods, not just the dishes he serves at Thali. He enjoys trying “all good food” which he says includes Spanish tapas, country French, simWSL WHZ[HZ OV[ HUK ÄLY` [HJVZ *HYPIILHU MVVK SPRL KV\ISLZ to rotis to jerk, contemporary American, Asian, and more. ;OPZ IYLHK[O VM [HZ[L WYVÄSLZ HSSV^Z OPT [V IL JYLH[P]L HUK informed when trying to wow diners at Thali. Chirnomula said over the past few years, some favorite dishes at the restaurant include “Street style Chats, Konkan Crab, Signature Lamb

32

Foodies of New England

chops, Dum Biryani (specially with Goat), Chicken Tikka Masala, My mother’s Andhra Chicken Curry and all breads.”

“An evening at Thali is an education in Indian cuisine. It’s JVTMVY[HISL ¹ OL ZHPK ¸-YVT [OL TVZ[ ÅH]VYM\S \UPX\L 0UKPan street style foods to a perfectly-seasoned appetizer [like] Konkan crab. Then the journey continues with aromatic dishes accompanied by wonderful breads and Basmati pulao.

Of course the desserts are very unique too.”

Chirnomula is clearly proud of his restaurant and even the level of clientele speaks to the quality of the food. He’s able to name half a dozen celebrities who have dined at his restaurant—from Richard Gere to Harvey Feinstein and Christopher Plummer, the list is a who’s who of names anyone would recognize.

But the real showstopper at Thali New Haven is the food.

From the chef’s care in preparation and inventiveness to the style and elegance with which it’s served, Indian food at Thali New Haven is a winner.

Ultimately, Chirnomula lives and works by a simple tenet that makes his restaurant a success.

“Strive for excellence and not perfection,” he said. “Good food is just not an answer for excellence, good food is just one of the ingredients on a recipe for excellence.”

Thali - New Haven 4 Orange Street New Haven, CT 06510 203.777.1177 www.thali-newhaven.com

“An evening at Thali is an education in Indian cuisine.

From the most flavorful unique Indian street style foods to a perfectly-seasoned appetizer.”

*OLM 7YHZHK *OPYUVT\SH

*OLM PU *\PZPUL! 2PZOHUSHS :OHYTH

Photo: Amy Etra

Foodies of New England

33

SAPPORO’S Got Seoul

L

Written by Bradley Schwarzenbach Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Let’s start with two facts that cannot be disputed:

1. Sapporo Korean Barbecue & Sushi, in Westborough, Massachusetts, shares its name with a city in Japan.

2. While the restaurant serves sushi, it specializes in traditional Korean cuisine.

These geographical and culinary disconnects are the first thing I point out to Jae Phung, the Korea-born owner of Sapporo. He grins when I mention it. “It was fear,” said Phung. “I figured that Korean food was going to be a tough sell in Westborough, so we built a sushi bar and made sure high-quality Japanese food was on the menu. Sapporo, as a name, was well-known because of the [Japanese brand of] beer.”

34

Foodies of New England

+VSZV[ )P )PT )VW ^P[O )\SNVNP ILLM

Foodies of New England

35

9HPUIV^ :\ZOP

36

Foodies of New England

Since Sapporo opened seven years HNV [OL IPN IVSK ÅH]VYZ VM P[Z 2VYLHU dishes have not only been accepted in Westborough, they’ve thrived. Come in on a Saturday and prepare to wait a bit -- tables aren’t always easy to get. Their traditional Korean food has won the hearts and stomachs of Westborough and MetroWest Boston.

One dish not to be missed is the +VSZV[ )P )PT )VW, served in a stone pot; it combines rice, vegetables, and a choice of meats (your best bet being the seasoned Korean Bulgogi beef).

Just before being served, a raw egg is cracked over the top and eager diners are encouraged to wait as the piping hot pot cooks the egg into the steaming assemblage of food. ¸0U HKKP[PVU [V [OL IPN ÅH]VY ¹ 7O\UN ZHPK ¸H KLÄUPUN JOHYHJ[LYPZ[PJ VM 2Vrean food is that it’s served really, really hot, or very cold. Bi bim bop is hot…

There’s nothing delicate about it.”

The heat trend is, indeed, noticeable in Sapporo’s other signature dishes.

In fact, the .HSIP -- marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, pear juice, sugar, salt, and a few other ingredients Phung coyly withheld -- brings the heat right to the table. If you’re lucky enough to get

seats at one of Sapporo’s seven grill tables, you’ll be able to cook the Galbi to your own tastes.

“A lot of the Korean dishes we’ve ported over to America were traditionally peasant food, and you’ll see that with other Asian cuisines as well. The spicy soups and stews were eaten by poorer people who seasoned their foods with what they had,” Phung said.

Another can’t-miss dish at Sapporo is the 1L`\R )VRRL\T SP[LYHSS` WVYR Z[PY MY` 0[ W\[Z H ÄLY` MHJL VU [OL IVSK 2VYLHU ÅH]VY 7O\UN RLLWZ TLU[PVUPUN ;OPZ KPZO PZ ZLHZVULK ^P[O a .V *O\ 1HUN base -- primarily fermented bean paste and JOPSP ÅHRLZ ;OL NV JO\ QHUN PZ H JVTTVU 2VYLHU ÅH]VY HUK Phung noted that it’s used in many stews and meats.

What started out as concern about how Korean food would be welcomed by the community has turned into a growth opportunity for Phung. He now has competition in Westborough as another Korean restaurant has opened in town. And, at the same time, he’s expanding: Sapporo’s sister restaurant, the more openly Korea-themed Seoul Kitchen, is opening this June in Westford.

Phung’s vision for Sapporo has been to showcase Korean food to the many New England residents who are often hav-

PUN P[ MVY [OL ÄYZ[ [PTL ^OLU [OL` ]PZP[ :HWWVYV /L OVWLZ [OH[ they not only enjoy the convivial atmosphere (sit at a table or grill table, the bar or the sushi bar) but learn about Korean traditions as well.

In the same breath, though, Phung quickly mentioned that as seriously as he takes the presentation of Korean foods at Sapporo, the sushi and Japanese dishes are equally imWVY[HU[ ¸;OL ÄZO MVY V\Y Z\ZOP PZ L_[YLTLS` MYLZO /H]PUN the whole region represented on the menu is important to us, and most people who dine here will often order both Z\ZOP HUK 2VYLHU MVVK ¹ 7O\UN ZHPK ¸>L KV Z[YVUN ÅHvors with better techniques, better ingredients, and a better presentation.”

Sapporo Barbecue & Sushi is open Tuesday to Thursday from 11:30am to 9:30pm. Friday & Saturday 11:30am to 10:00pm. Sunday 12:00 to 9:00pm. A lunch buffet is available from 11:30am to 2:30pm, Tuesday to Friday.

Sapporo Korean Barbecue & Sushi 50 East Main Street Westborough, MA 01581 508.898.1880 www.sapporobbq.com Foodies of New England

37

38

Foodies of New England

*L]PJOL *SHZZPJV ^P[O ;PNLY :H\JL

Los Andes A Culinary Expedition Written by Julie Grady Thomas Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

B

Bored with barbeque? Tired of Italian? Craving something outside the typical to tickle your palate?

No need to pack your bags and buy that plane ticket.Tucked away in Providence, Rhode Island is Los Andes, your next culinary adventure guaranteed to excite the senses.

South American Authenticity Don’t let its humble exterior fool you. Los Andes may be located on a quiet corner, but it truly has a stunning menu and an effervescent ambiance. And in a world where locavores rule, it does well to Z[YPRL H IHSHUJL IL[^LLU [OL [Y\S` H\[OLU[PJ HUK SVJHS ÅHPY Owner and Chef Cesin Curi goes out of his way to marry these two seemingly polarizing trends. /L ZV\YJLZ SVJHS IHZPJ PUNYLKPLU[Z I\[ VM[LU PTWVY[Z IPN [PJRL[ P[LTZ Z\JO HZ ÄZO MYVT [OL (THaVU 9P]LY [V MLH[\YL VU [OL TLU\ /PZ MLHYSLZZULZZ PU ÄUKPUN HUK WYLZLY]PUN [Y\[O PU :V\[O (TLYPJHU fare is why Los Andes VMMLYZ ZVTL VM [OL ILZ[ ]HS\L MVY TVUL` `V\ JHU ÄUK PU 5L^ ,UNSHUK ^P[OV\[ ZHJYPÄJPUN ÅH]VY VY L_WLYPLUJL

Foodies of New England

39

seafood options including the aji de gallina, a Peruvian chicken dish with aji amarillo-walnut cream sauce, and the jalea, a Peruvian fried seafood medley battered with kiko soy and garlic then topped with chalaca salsa alongside fried yucca and rocoto cilantro aioli.

If you do have questions (which you will and you should), the staff is incredible. Curi said they are trained weekly to â&#x20AC;&#x153;interpret our cuisine and culture to customersâ&#x20AC;? and that the hospitality and energy in the restaurant mimics that of the region itself.

The Journey Born and raised in Bolivia, Curi always knew the restaurant industry was his calling. Even before immigrating to the U.S. in 1991, his family was always entrepreneurial, dabbling in different aspects of the service and hospitality industries.

Once they arrived, the Curi family opened a convenience store where, among other things, his mother would sell traditional, homemade Bolivian meat pies. Soon so many people were lining up to purchase them they bought a small picnic table, then one table became two, two became three, and his But that is what South American cui- Bringing Order to Ordering sine is aboutâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;balance, integration, and Perhaps just as considerable as the An- father eventually opened ;OL )VSP]PHU KLZ [OL TLU\ \WVU Ă&#x201E;YZ[ SVVR JHU IL 9LZ[H\YHU[. surprise. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was eleven at the time and I did evWith a rich history that includes indig- rather intimidating. In all, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s large with LUV\Z Ă&#x2026;H]VYZ HZ ^LSS HZ 5VY[O (MYPJHU 11 HWLYP[P]VZ, two soups, three salads, erything. I was a waiter, a dishwasher,â&#x20AC;?

Chinese, Japanese, Italian, and French 19 entrees, 13 KL SH WHYYPSSH dishes, and Curi recalled. But it was that all-around PUĂ&#x2026;\LUJLZ J\SPUHY` :V\[O (TLYPJH VM- 10 seafood options all ranging from effort that prepared him to work for six fers a vast array tantalizing dishes you $2.95 to $53.95 (the latter is a meal for years under the masterful eye of Rhode Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Giuseppe Calapai at Bella might have never heard of, let alone two).

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well worth it to consider each and 9PZ[VYHU[L. seen.

Eventually, Curi felt ready to open his In keeping with its moniker, Los An- every choiceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and while the menu is own restaurant, but it was his younger des offers up Latin ingredients and in Spanish (with English descriptions), dishes from the very regions that con- there is something for everyone, from brother Omar who spotted the proptain those mountains: Argentina, Peru, the brazen foodie adventurer to the erty where Los Andes now resides, classic meat-and-potatoes customer NP]PUN *\YP [OL Ă&#x201E;UHS W\ZO OL ULLKLK Bolivia, Colombia, and Ecuador. ¸0 MLS[ [OH[ Ă&#x201E;YL PUZPKL VM TL [OL ZLJVUK In an interview with 7OHU[VT .V\Y- and even the Ăźber health conscious.

Meat and steak may be a large part I walked in. I kept visualizing all the TL[, Curi said â&#x20AC;&#x153;In this way, we were able to utilize different methods of cuisine, cuisineâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;try out the JOPJOHYYVU JVUĂ&#x201E;[ possibilities. Something in me ignited,â&#x20AC;? different ingredients, different types of pork spare ribs with essence of cin- he reminisced.

JVU[PU\LK VU WHNL winesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the key component to how namon, bay leaf and limeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;there are plenty of mind-blowing chicken and our menu is created.â&#x20AC;?

40

Foodies of New England

3VTV -PUV ( 3V 7VIYL

)HRLK 3VIZ[LY 7HLSSH

6^ULY HUK *OLM *LZPU *\YP

4PSHULZH *HZLYH )VULSLZZ JOPJRLU [OPNO LUJY\Z[LK ^P[O WHURV ZLY]LK V]LY ]LNL[HISL JOH\MH YPJL Z^LL[ WSHU[HPUZ ZHSZH JYPVSSH Ã&#x201E;UPZOLK ^P[O O\HUJH`UH ZH\JL

Foodies of New England

41

Subscriptions Are Here!

Tired of missing out on the latest issue of Foodies of New England?

Subscribe now and have Foodies of New England delivered right to your door!

Every issue is packed with engaging, informative articles and delicious, easy-to-make recipes.

And of course... the award-winning photography!

Check out our website for details & Bon Appetit! www.foodiesofnewengland.com ÂŽ

Magazine

It’s that very passion that continues to sizzle and inspire: so much so that Los Andes PZ L_WHUKPUN ^P[O H ZLJVUK ÅVVY Aymara experience. The Aymara are one of the oldest civilizations in the world; they are a culture, a language, a people, and they live along the Andes. “It will be a story,” said Curi.

“You’re going to walk in there and feel special.” Curi assured that the plans are spectacular, complete with a replica of the ;PHO\HUHJV HU HUJPLU[ Z\UKPHS \ZLK I` [OL (`THYH (UK Ä[tingly enough, you’ll be able to immerse yourself in seasonal delicacies.

“To me this whole thing, it’s still a dream,” gushed Curi on owning his own restaurant. Here at Foodies we can only hope he keeps dreaming because his aspirations are truly a welcome adventure for the senses.

Los Andes 903 Chalkstone Avenue Providence, RI, 02908 401.649.4911 www.losandesri.com

Delightful Dishes According to Your Foodie Personality Feeling courageous or cautious? Traditional or fusion?

Healthy or Hearty? Here are some top picks for just about HU` MVVKPL TVVK `V\ TPNO[ ÄUK `V\YZLSM PU The Adventurer – Try the HU[PJ\JOVZ, aji panca and garlic marinated beef heart, skewered and grilled served alongside grilled potatoes and a rocoto cream sauce, or the WPJHU[L KL SLUN\H, braised angus beef tongue with aji panca caramelized onions and chuno.

The Fish Fanatic – Ceviche, ceviche, ceviche! But do keep any eye out for JOVYP[VZ H SH KPHISHKH, mussels with IHJVU ZWPUHJO [VTH[VLZ HUK ÄUPZOLK PU H JOHTWHNUL aji amarillo curry cream sauce.

7KH *ULOO $ðFLRQDGR – You can’t go wrong with the JO\YYHZJV, an angus ribeye served ensalada rusa, fried yucca and arroz con queso.

The Fusion Fiend – Check out the JOH\MH KL YLZ, a JOPMH PUÅ\LUJL ^VR MYPLK YPJL PUM\ZLK ^P[O RPVU ZH\[tLK ^P[O Z[YPWZ VM ZPYSVPU Z[LHR RPRV ZV` LNNZ HUK ÄUPZOLK ^P[O scallions.

The Health Nut – The LUZHSHKH JVU X\PUVH is where you want to be if you’re looking for a protein-packed vegetarian option.

The Authentic ¶ +LÄUP[LS` [LZ[ [OL WHWHZ H SH O\HUJHnia, a traditional Peruvian dish of purple potatoes topped with huancaina sauce, botija olives and hard boiled eggs.

The Hungry One – This is easy. It’s the WHLSSH. It is simply Z[\UUPUN I\[ KLÄUP[LS` THRL Z\YL `V\»YL O\UNY` ILJH\ZL not only does it include all the seafood, chicken and chorizo you could want, it also comes stuffed in a 2lb lobster.

¿Cómo se dice…? How do you say…?

If you aren’t already familiar with Spanish, here are a ML^ KLÄUP[PVUZ [V OLSW `V\ KLJPWOLY `V\Y KYLHT KPZO¯ HQP HTHYPSSV! VYHUNL 7LY\]PHU WLWWLY" OV[ I\[ SLZZ ÄYL than a scotch bonnet HQP WHUJH: red Peruvian pepper; mild, smoky, MY\P[` ÅH]VY HYYVa JVU X\LZV: mac and cheese Bolivian style; made with rice, not pasta JHUJOH: Andean popcorn, except these kernels don’t puff; they’re more like toasted corn nuts JL]PJOL ¶ ZLHMVVK KPZO THKL ^P[O MYLZO YH^ ÄZO THYPnated in citrus juice and spices JOHSHJH ZHSZH! ZHSZH ^P[O ÅH]VYZ HUK PUNYLKPLU[Z MYVT Callao, Lima’s main seaport JOPMH: Peruvian term used for Chinese cooking where many of the original Chinese ingredients were substituted for Peruvian ones.

JOPTPJO\YYP: Argentinian green sauce made with parsley and spices used for grilled meat JOVJSV: Peruvian corn also known as Cuzco; chewier, starchier and less sweet than other varieties; similar to Hominy JO\UV; Quechua and Aymara in origin and dates back [V [OL 0UJH ,TWPYL" MYLLaL KYPLK WV[H[V WYVK\J[ Ä]L KH` process exposing a frost-resistant variety of potato to very low temperature in the Andean Altiplano, freezing them and then exposing them to intense daylight.

JYPVSSV JOVYPaV: similar to Italian or Polish sausage KL SH WHYYPSSH: from the grill LUZHSHKH Y\ZH: potato salad; directly translated as Russian salad; variations of potatoes, celery, carrots, peas, apples, celery, mayonnaise; named for its Russian origins jalea: Peruvian fried assortment of seafood served with pickled red onion salsa RPVU: ginger SLJOL KL [PNYL: directly translated as “tiger’s milk;” citrus based-marinade that cures the seafood in Peruvian ceviche; also believed to be an aphrodisiac and hangover cure TV[L: original from the Quechua; different South American countries will have different variations, but generally it refers to grains WSHU[HUV MYP[V: fried sweet plantains X\LZV ISHUJV: creamy, soft, mild, fresh white cheese typically from cow or goat milk.

X\PUV[V: a quinoa risotto YVJV[V: also known as a manzana or manzano pepper; initially a sweet, citrus taste then a powerful heat like a habanero; one of the oldest cultivated chiles.

[HTHSLZ! JVYU IHZLK KV\NO ÄSSLK ^P[O TLH[Z cheeses, vegetables; steamed in banana leaf yucca: also known as the cassava; a root vegetable similar to a potato

Foodies of New England

43

A Butcher’s Tale Written by Billy Manzo Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

At a time when big box stores and the internet rule the world, it was a pleasure sitting down with Antonio Cabral and his son, Mike, of Providence’s Central Meat Market, to discuss that maybe—just maybe— there looms a probable revival of the mom-and-pop store.

44

Foodies of New England

They would argue that there is no revival: they have been here the whole time, servicing their customers in the only way they know how: with great products, stellar customer service, fair pricing, and genuine care. What we today would call nostalgic, they call normal.

Antonio came to the United States after growing up in Viseu, Portugal. It was there he worked on a farm with his father. I asked him what made him want to be a butcher, and he responded in somewhat broken English, â&#x20AC;&#x153;It was a dream when I was a boy.â&#x20AC;?

In 1969 Antonio was serving in the Portuguese Navy. Shortly after getting out, he married, and moved to America in 1973. He VWLULK OPZ Ă&#x201E;YZ[ SVJH[PVU PU *YHUZ[VU PU ¸0 IV\NO[ H WSHJL [and] I was there for eleven yearsâ&#x20AC;Śwe had more groceries, but [it was] the same thing as a meat marketâ&#x20AC;Ś[it was a] smaller place.â&#x20AC;?

Demographics changed during those years in Cranston, so he moved the business to Fox Point where there was more of a South and Central American as well as Portuguese concentration of people. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Then I decided to buy this one here!â&#x20AC;? Antonio has been at his current location now for twenty-seven years.

I asked Antonio why he thought he survived in this neighborhood after seeing so many Italian butchers come and go. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know, maybe we work [in] different ways. Because not too many people display meats like we do: European styleâ&#x20AC;Śnot too many people hang beef anymore.â&#x20AC;? When you look in the window of Central Meat Market, you can see the quarters and halves hanging: something which you just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see today in very many places, certainly not in the supermarkets where butchering is all put a ghost of the past.

(U[VUPVÂťZ J\Z[VTLYZ HYL SVVRPUN MVY ZWLJPĂ&#x201E;J J\[Z VM X\HSity meats at a fair price. â&#x20AC;&#x153;They use a lot of meat with bone for stewsâ&#x20AC;ŚThatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most[ly] for the Portuguese and Spanish, South American, and Central American: they cook a different way.â&#x20AC;? I asked him to give me an example. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The ribs. They use them for beef stew and some to make soup with. Also chuck roast: the same way like American use that for chuck steak, something like that.â&#x20AC;? According to Antonio, bone-in meat is not something you Ă&#x201E;UK [VV YLN\SHYS` PU Z\WLYTHYRL[Z [OLZL KH`Z @V\ HSZV KVUÂť[ Ă&#x201E;UK baby goat or baby pig. At Central Meat Market they specialize in OH]PUN P[LTZ [OH[ `V\ JHUÂť[ ULJLZZHYPS` Ă&#x201E;UK HU`^OLYL LSZL (Utonioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s son Mike told me, â&#x20AC;&#x153;We carry baby goats. There is no way you can get those in supermarkets. We also carry baby pigs, all the odd stuff: cow tongues, pig tongues, cow hearts, all the products off the cow. If they [the USDA] allow you to sell it, we sell it.â&#x20AC;? They also make their own chorizo in-house and carry a variety of goods to attract the American consumer.

6UL [OPUN [OH[ OHZ ZLLU H ZPNUPĂ&#x201E;JHU[ JOHUNL V]LY [OL SHZ[ twenty-seven years has been the cost of goods. Antonio told me, â&#x20AC;&#x153;One thing is true right now: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not the best days. Thanks to the prices people buy less and less and less. And the expenses are always the same.â&#x20AC;?

JVU[PU\LK VU WHNL

Foodies of New England

45

-5,! “How do you buy your meats UV^& 0Z P[ ZPNUPÄJHU[S` KPMMLYLU[ [OHU ^OLU `V\ ÄYZ[ NV[ PU[V [OL PUK\Z[Y`& +V `V\ ÄUK [OL TLH[ [V IL H KPMMLYLU[ TLH[ now?”

Antonio: “I don’t see much difference—the price change[s] a lot. The price is crazy.”

-5,! “Do you think the price is because of things like China or because the US consumer isn’t eating as much?”

Antonio: “Maybe more the exporting stuff. The consumers eat less because it’s more expensive, so they buy less…right now the pork market [went] through the roof thanks to the one of the big USA companies [being] sold to Chinese people.”

-5,! “So that has immediately affected even you here in Fox Point, Rhode Island?”

46

Foodies of New England

Antonio: “Everybody, everywhere.”

Mike: “[Up] 40 cents since last week. Most of our pork products have gone up.”

Antonio: “Some cuts of beef in one week [went] up $1.05, like rib eye, New York sirloin. Right now they are costing a lot.”

With the prices on the rise, when local farmers come in to try to sell their meat to Antonio, he says he sometimes has to turn them away because of the high cost. They want double the price of the meat that Antonio currently butchers. When I asked him what he thinks about organic meat, he said, “I think two things: maybe a mistake or maybe it costing too much to grow the animals today. They only eat corn—maybe it is too expensive. We carry Choice and Select. Except the meat with the bone,

that is all local beef, from Vermont and Massachusetts. It’s not organic, but once again right now we don’t have the right customers for that.”

Mike went to CCRI and studied marketing. When he was a child he would follow his dad around the store asking him questions about everything. It is obvious the love that Mike has for his father and vice versa. “I always thought I was born for business…I saw how hard he worked for everything. To me it was a better way to provide…you feel better about yourself at the end of the day.”

When I asked them where they would like to be in ten years, Mike responded, “on a beach!” I asked, “With a steak sandwich?” (Both father and son’s favorite cut of meat is a 1” thick New York sirloin) and we all had a laugh.

Undoubtedly Central Meat Market will be here for years to come, serving its current and future customers the only way they know how: with an unrelenting work ethic rooted in strong family values. The Cabral family is the true perZVUPÄJH[PVU VM [OL (TLYPJHU +YLHT (Utonio summed it up perfectly by saying, “Sorry about my English: I’m imported, you know!”

(U[VUPV *HIYHS ^P[O ^PML (SPJL ZVU 4PRL HUK 1VLV

Central Meat Market 113 Gano Street Providence, RI, 02906 401.751.6935 www.centralmeatmarket.com

Foodies of New England

47

Photos courtesy of paulsrobinsonphotography.com

Massachusetts & Rhode Island Expos SHOW TIMES 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Sunday September 7, 2014 Best Western Royal Plaza Hotel Ballroom Marlborough, MA Sunday September 21, 2014 Sturbridge Host Hotel Sturbridge, MA Sunday November 9, 2014 Twin River Casino Lincoln, RI

Exhibiting ties Opportuni Available!

Sunday January 11, 2015 DoubleTree Hotel Leominster, MA Saturday February 7, 2015 Royal Plaza Trade Center Marlborough, MA Discount tickets available at originalweddingexpo.com Produced by

Sponsored by

(508) 770-0092 Find us on

immaculatephoto.com

Foodies of New England

49

“History of...”

Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault Food styling by Dona Bourgery

1VKPL 3`UU )VK\JO V^ULY VM 4\JO (KV 4HYRL[PUN ZLY]LZ HZ :VJPHS 4LKPH +PYLJ[VY HUK :[HMM >YP[LY MVY [OL -VVKPLZ [LHT :OL»Z HU HK]LU[\YV\Z L_WSVYLY VM [OL J\SPUHY` SHUKZJHWL HUK LUQV`Z ^YP[PUN HIV\[ MVVK ,K\JH[LK PU IV[O I\ZPULZZ HUK OPZ[VY` ZOL OHZ IPN WSHUZ [V W\[ [OL SH[[LY [V NVVK \ZL MVY [OPZ JVS\TU

50

Foodies of New England

Curry This isn’t your typical The History of… article: explaining curry is more Where in the World is Carmen Sandiego? than Oxford English Dictionary. >OPJO PZ [V ZH` [OH[ [OPZ LS\ZP]L ZWPJL PZ H T`Z[LY` PU [LYTZ VM IV[O KLÄUP[PVU and (until recently) origin.

Chances are you associate curry with Indian food, right? As well you should: P[»Z H WYVTPULU[ ÅH]VY PU [OH[ YLNPVU»Z J\PZPUL HUK [OL ^VYK P[ZLSM KLYP]LZ MYVT RHYP, which means “sauce” in the South Indian language of Tamil. This particular sauce was a spicy dressing with the consistency of soup. Portuguese traders are credited with making it popular, publishing a recipe for RHYP in a 17thcentury cookbook. In that same century, British traders dubbed any number of savory dishes from the area “curry,” which came to mean a sauce with HU \UZWLJPÄLK JVTIPUH[PVU VM·[HRL H KLLW IYLH[O OLYL· [\YTLYPJ NPUNLY garlic, onion, pepper, chilies, cumin, and coriander.

Despite the association with Indian cooking—not to mention dishes from [OL *HYPIILHU HUK :V\[O 7HJPÄJ·YLJLU[ YLZLHYJO PUKPJH[LZ [OH[ J\YY` L_PZ[LK thousands of years ago, long before India as we know it was a twinkle in Asia’s eye.

Culinary Archaeology ;OL KPZJV]LY` VM HUJPLU[ J\YY` [VVR WSHJL PU [OL HYJOLVSVNPJHS ÄUKZ VM [OL Bronze Age Indus Valley Civilization, which at its height existed from 2600 BCE until around 1900 BCE and covered the area from what is today northeast Afghanistan to Pakistan and northwest India.

Thanks to some diligent researchers who aren’t afraid to get their hands messy—in the form of ancient disintegrating skeletons and dirty dishes—and technological advances, scientists use powerful microscopes to identify the remains of meals cooked thousands of years ago. (;OPZ writer is waiting for the day they unearth ancient leftovers in ancient Tupperware.) What they discovered is that more than 4,500 years ago, villagers in the Indus Valley used ginger, garlic, and turmeric in their cooking—three essential ingredients of curry.

JVU[PU\LK VU WHNL

Foodies of New England

51

Globetrotting With Curry Curry as we know it today spread throughout the world as a result of trading. But you know that description of curry cited earlier, per the 17th-century Brits? It’s hardly conclusive, and even [VKH` KLÄUPUN J\YY` PZ ]HN\L H[ ILZ[ Here’s a sample of what constitutes a curry dish in various countries outside of India: Burma: Burmese chicken curry is similar to Punjabi-style chicken minus tomatoes and peppers.

Ethiopia: Called wat, it’s akin to Indian curry. It’s based on meat (with the exception of pork) and/or vegetables.

Indonesia: There are several varieties, rendang being the most popular. It’s a “dry” curry (i.e., the sauce is simmered to a minimum).

Japan: This form of curry is late to the party, having been created only in 1912.

It uses onions, carrots, and potatoes.

Malaysia: Curry in Malaysia is complex, with powders rich in turmeric,

52

Foodies of New England

ginger, garlic, coconut milk, shallots, shrimp paste, and chilies.

Nepal: The dish here is called masu, spiced or curried meat with gravy and served with rice.

Sri Lanka: The curry dishes here are based on color: white (coconut milk base), red (lots of chili), and black (roasted spices).

Thailand: It’s like a curry festival here!

There’s yellow curry, massaman curry, gold curry, green curry, red curry, panang, jungle curry, and khao soi.

Curry is Retro-Cool Curry is the world’s oldest, continuously prepared cuisine. The lack of an absoS\[L KLÄUP[PVU VM J\YY` PZ WLYOHWZ P[Z greatest asset: such malleability allows for creative dishes and, to borrow from jazz improv, “riffs” on the dish. That there’s some mystery and little agreement about curry makes an already exotic spice that much more intriguing.

If those 17th-century Portuguese and British traders came back today, they’d

probably want to do it during National Curry Week in Britain, where there are restaurant events, cooking competitions, and even poems dedicated to curry.

Foodies of New England

53

Cooking Up a Career

*\SPUHY` Z[\KLU[ AHJOHY` /H[OH^H`

(Part I: The First Year Student) Written by Tom Verde Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

T

he life of a culinary student is not all spatulas and spaghetti. It is a journey that

involves commitment to professional standards set long ago by such venerable institutions as Paris’s Le Cordon Bleu and New York’s Culinary Institute of America. Here in New England, Johnson & Wales University’s 40 year-old College of Culinary Arts program in Providence, Rhode Island, has become equally world-renowned for its high standards and interdisciplinary approach to the education of food professionals. In a three-part series of interviews on the life of a culinary student, Foodies of New England magazine will examine the motivation,

challenges, and results of a culinary education at one of New England’s—and America’s— top-notch culinary programs. We begin our series with asking a first-year culinary student what made him consider a career in the food industry.

54

Foodies of New England

Nineteen year-old Zachary Hathaway, of Chadsford, PA, is a freshman at Johnson & Wales and a kitchen manager at Hooters in Warwick, RI. He developed an interest in cooking at an early age in a household where, ironically, food was just . . . food.

FNE: What kind of food did you eat growing up?

ZH: Nothing special really. Frozen chicken, hamburgers. It really depended on who was cooking that night. But I was very hyper-active as a kid, and so I often cooked to have something to do in the afternoons before my parents got home from work.

FNE: When did you start to consider a career in cooking?

ZH: When I was fourteen I was a ]VS\U[LLY ÄYLÄNO[LY PU )L[OLS HUK [OLYL was a caterer next door, Renzi Catering.

One summer the owner needed an extra hand steaming crabs and offered me a job. It was only supposed to last for the summer, but I really enjoyed it and I Z[H`LK [OLYL MVY Ä]L `LHYZ

FNE: What was it that you liked about it?

ZH: I liked the excitement, the high energy of the kitchen. I thrived on being busy. I loved it.

FNE: :V HM[LY Ä]L `LHYZ H[ [OL JH[LYer’s, then what did you do?

ZH: While working at the caterers, I attended a vocational high school, where I ÄYZ[ SLHYULK HIV\[ 1VOUZVU >HSLZ I\[ my GPA wasn’t high enough to get in.

So I went to the local state school a year, to boost my GPA, then reapplied and got in.

JVU[PU\LK VU WHNL

Foodies of New England

55

FNE: What are you learning so far?

ZH: Right now I am in a class called “New World Cuisine,” and am learning the basics of deep-frying, grilling, and baking.

FNE: Which do you like best?

ZH: Because of my job at Hooters, I am pretty comfortable around a deep-fryer, but I am enjoying learning new techniques and working with ingredients I never dreamt of using back home.

FNE: Like what?

ZH: The other day I got to break out a whole salmon and JVVR [OH[ VU [OL NYPSS 0 KPK H YHJR VM SHTI ^OPJO ^HZ T` ÄYZ[ time working with lamb.

FNE: How about hitting the books?

ZH: I have homework every night. It’s very competitive here, and I like the challenge. We have trimesters, with two trimesters of labs, which is working in the kitchen, and one trimester of academics—English, math, science, history.

FNE: What has surprised you most about culinary school?

ZH: Coming from a vocational school, I knew what taking classes in a kitchen would be like, but this is on a completely different scale. You have to be clean-shaven. You have to have your [whites] ironed and pressed every day, so I had to learn how to clean them, how to iron them, how to make the seams perfect. You even have to bleach your aprons and side-towels every night and they better be clean. There are

56

Foodies of New England

chefs lined up at the door inspecting you as you come in, and if you are not up to standards, there will be consequences.

FNE: Finally, do you have a goal in mind?

ZH: I am in the associate’s program right now, and hope to one day own and operate my own restaurant. I would like to NL[ PU]VS]LK PU [OL ÄUL KPUPUN ^VYSK [V ZLL ^OH[ PZ UL^ HUK up-and-coming. It took me a while to get here. When I left Pennsylvania, I told my friends that I may come back, but I also told then I might never come back. I want to follow this career wherever I can go.

NEXT ISSUE . . . we speak with a culinary student nearing graduation.

Gluten Free

A Mexican Thai Beach Party Written by Ellen Allard Gluten Free Diva www.glutenfreediva.com Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

,SSLU (SSHYK [OL .S\[LU -YLL +P]H PZ HU V]LY [OL TVVU LU[O\ZPHZ[PJHSS` OPW HUK TV[P]H[PVUHS *LY[PÃ&#x201E;LK /VSPZ[PJ /LHS[O *VHJO ^OV OLSWZ JSPLU[Z IHUPZO [OL ISVH[ HUK LTIYHJL NS\[LU MYLL SPMLZ[`SL JOHUNLZ [OH[ LUHISL [OLT [V MHSS THKS` PU SV]L ^P[O [OL MVVK [OH[ \ULX\P]VJHSS` SV]LZ [OLT IHJR ( NYHK\H[L VM [OL 0UZ[P[\[L MVY 0U[LNYH[P]L 5\[YP[PVU ,SSLU PZ H YLJPWL KL]LSVWLY MVVK ^YP[LY MVVK WOV[VNYHWOLY HUK ]PKLVNYHWOLY ^^^ NS\[LUMYLLKP]H JVT ISVN :OL WHZZPVUH[LS` WYVTV[LZ VW[PTHS OLHS[O [OYV\NO PUMVYTLK MVVK JOVPJLZ HUK ^OVSL WSHU[ IHZLK MVVKZ :OL SV]LZ HSS [OPUNZ MVVK HUK OLHS[O HUK PZ OHWW` [V [HSR [V `V\ HIV\[ [OL ZHTL

58

Foodies of New England

One of the discoveries I made early on in my gluten-free journey is that ethnic foods are ideal for following a delicious gluten-free diet. The choices are endless, and there are many options for making substitutions when I encounter HU PUNYLKPLU[ [OH[ JVU[HPUZ NS\[LU·HUK [OL L_WSVZPVU VM Ã&#x2026;H]VYZ PZ H MLHZ[ MVY the taste buds.

The ethnic foods I ate before I went gluten free was somewhat limited. I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t yet experienced these colorful culinary delights that are now a regular part of my meal rotation. Mexican food is a staple in my kitchen, and quick to THRL 0»SS [HRL YLMYPLK ILHUZ VU H JVYU VY NS\[LU MYLL Ã&#x2026;V\Y [VY[PSSH OVTLTHKL guacamole, a jar of salsa, and a cold gluten-free beer any night of the week. I have a yen (pardon the pun) at least once a week for my Asian Crispy Tofu & Broccoli stir-fry, redolent with garlic and ginger, over a bed of jasmine rice. And Indian food, oh myâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t lived until you try Aloo Gobi, a spicy recipe [OH[ PUJS\KLZ JH\SPÃ&#x2026;V^LY HUK WV[H[VLZ )L Z[PSS T` NS\[LU MYLL OLHY[ The recipes featured in my article for this issue of Foodies borrow slightly from Mexican cuisine and more heavily from Thai cuisine. Using corn tortillas HZ [OL IHZL ^L [OLU [YH]LS [V ;OHPSHUK [V Ã&#x201E;UK V\Y Ã&#x201E;SSPUN ^OPJO JVUZPZ[Z VM crispy tofu and red cabbage ginger slaw drizzled with a smooth sweet and spicy almond butter sauce. Add a side of jasmine rice studded with cilantro HUK Z\I[S` Ã&#x2026;H]VYLK ^P[O PUNLZ[PISL KV;,99( 3PTL ,ZZLU[PHS 6PS T` UL^ MH]VYite obsession, for info, visit my website at www.glutenfreediva.com), and wash it down with Sweet Thai Coconut Iced Tea, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll think youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve landed on a beach in Phuket, Thailand with the sun beating down on you with the water lapping at your feet.

Foodies of New England

59

Thai Crispy Tofu Tacos with Red Cabbage Ginger Slaw & Almond Butter Sauce 4 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6 corn tortillas

Crispy Tofu

Almond Butter Sauce

Ingredients:

Ingredients:

OE H[WUD ðUP WRIX GUDLQHG DQG FXEHG 2 Tbsp cornstarch ¼ tsp sea salt ¼ tsp black pepper ½ tsp garlic powder SLQFK FUXVKHG UHG SHSSHU ñDNHV 1 Tbsp coconut oil (or vegetable oil of choice)

½ c. smooth almond butter 2 Tbsp wheat free tamari VPDOO JDUOLF FORYH PLQFHG 1 tsp fresh grated ginger 1 tsp chili garlic paste 2 - 3 tbsp agave syrup OLPH MXLFHG 3 - 5 Tbsp hot water

Heat cast iron or non-stick pan on medium high heat.

Dredge the tofu in cornstarch, sea salt, black pepper, NHYSPJ WV^KLY HUK JY\ZOLK YLK WLWWLY Ã&#x2026;HRLZ JVH[PUN HSS sides of tofu cubes. Heat oil in pan. Add tofu and do not disturb for about 5 minutes, lowering heat if tofu begins to burn. After about 5 minutes, if tofu has reached desired crispness, use a spatula to turn over and crisp the other side. Some of the tofu cubes will stick together, which is NVVK HZ P[ HSSV^Z `V\ [V Ã&#x2026;PW [OL [VM\ PU VUL SH`LY >OLU [VM\ PZ Ã&#x201E;UPZOLK JVVRPUN YLTV]L MYVT OLH[ Red Cabbage Slaw Ingredients: 1 cup sliced red cabbage RQH KDOI RI D VPDOO MDODSHQR GLFHG PHGLXP FDUURW ðQHO\ FKRSSHG VFDOOLRQV FKRSSHG KDQGIXO FLODQWUR FKRSSHG Slaw Dressing Ingredients: ¼ cup lime juice VPDOO JDUOLF FORYH PLQFHG 1 Tbsp fresh grated ginger 1 tsp wheat free tamari 1 tsp chili garlic paste 2 Tbsp toasted sesame oil 1 Tbsp agave syrup SLQFK FUXVKHG UHG SHSSHU ñDNHV optionl: 1 - 2 drops doTERRA Lime Essential Oil RSWLRQDO RQH KDOI RI D VPDOO MDODSHQR GLFHG Mix all ingredients in measuring cup, whisking to blend. Set aside.

60

Foodies of New England

The slaw dressing and almond butter sauce can be prepared the day before. If you refrigerate the almond butter sauce, bring to room temperature before using in recipe.

Mix all ingredients in measuring cup, whisking to blend.

Water is added to desired thickness. Set aside. ;V HZZLTISL [HJVZ! Steam tacos until soft. Add a layer of tofu on top of taco, followed by slaw. Drizzle with almond butter sauce. Serve with Cilantro Rice.

Cilantro Rice Ingredients: 1 cup jasmine rice 2 cups water 1 tsp vegetable oil of choice 1 tsp salt 3 Tbsp freshly chopped cilantro optional: 2 - 3 drops doTERRA Lime Essential Oil In a small heavy saucepan, add rice, water, oil and salt.

Bring to a boil and continue to boil until water is just hovering above surface of the rice. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn off heat and allow rice to rest, covered, for another 5 minutes.

Add cilantro and doTERRA Lime Essential Oil, mix and serve.

Sweet Thai Coconut Iced Tea Ingredients: 2 cups water 1 Tbsp juice fresh orange juice ¼ tsp vanilla extract pinch cloves pinch cinnamon 2 Sweet Coconut Thai Teabags (Celestial Seasons brand) ¼ cup coconut sugar or sweetener of choice coconut milk (from can) Place water, orange juice, vanilla extract, cloves, cinnamon and teabags in small saucepan. Boil on high for 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Add sugar and mix ^P[O ZWVVU :[LLW MVY TPU\[LZ 7V\Y V]LY PJL ÄSSLK NSHZZ ÄSSPUN NSHZZ HIV\[ ê M\SS ^P[O [LH (KK JVJVU\[ milk. Stir and enjoy!

Foodies of New England

61

Ocean House

62

Foodies of New England

Elegance and Adventure

Written by Christine Whipple Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

O

Overlooking the ocean, in a comfortable, elegant dining room, a few friends and I sipped our Bellini’s (champagne and peach purée) at Ocean House Sunday Jazz Brunch (Watch Hill, RI).

Multiple bars and buffet tables welcomed us.

Beginning with the raw bar, my first aha moment was the combination of zucchini bread with raw clams and oysters.

The flavors intermingled as if the pairing was something I should have thought about long ago. Kristen Gartlett from Whitinsville, MA remarked, “The antipasto and parmesan is just right. Perfect.”

Foodies of New England

63

When I asked Executive Chef, John Kolesar, what his favorite Sunday Brunch dish is, he quickly responded, “Short Rib of Beef Hash.” Soon after, Tanya Morin from Millville, MA took a picture with her iPhone and said, “This beef rib with broccoli rabe and potato with hollandaise sauce is a mouthwatering masterpiece.”

Kolesar continued, “Our chef team has a lot of fun with Sunday Brunch. It allows us to give old favorites a new twist. The best part of my experience here is that I have a lot of creative freedom. Among the notes we get regularly from guests thanking us for their meal experiences, one guest called our chefs ‘magicians’.”

At the desert bar, I chose a blueberry ricotta mouse. With a perfect, light texture, encased in an equally light (delicate) chocolate dome, it sat on top of an Ocean House signature shortbread. The shortbread gave it a regal, less-than-aJY\UJO TLTVYHISL ÄUPZO With multiple restaurants on site, guests enjoy a variety of food options. “Our culinary team believes in a farm-to-table concept.” Kolesar said, “Every day is different because we work with local farmers and cook according to what is seasonably available.”

64

Foodies of New England

,KPISL *OVJVSH[L 7HZ[Y` *OLM

Adam Young, Executive Pastry Chef, talked about local farm supWS` PUÅ\LUJPUN [OL ZLHZVUHS KLZLY[ TLU\! ¸+\YPUN [OL ^PU[LY ^L SLHU toward cheese-heavy choices. Each spring we are able to work with rhubarb, spring pea, citrus, mint, and local fennel. During the sumTLY ^L WPJR OLYIZ HUK ÅV^LYZ MYVT V\Y V^U NHYKLUZ 0 SV]L [V \ZL rosemary, French thyme, and savory herbs in deserts.”

Young continued, “Because our menu changes daily, there are times that our food is both instantaneous and visionary. For example: late last summer we had a great peach selection. We started with a version of a dark, rich, peach dessert with molasses, bourbon, brown sugar, vanilla, and grilled orange. As a team we discussed and experimented with something that turned out to be much different. What we wound up with was ripe and light, a petite peach crepe gateaux with basil gel.”

“People come here for a sense of luxury and home,” said Young.

“Inspired by each season, we try to push the envelope without being pretentious. As we work toward being culinary experts in innovation, cooking is a daily adventure.”

Sunday Brunch is from 8:00am until 2:30pm. Reservations should be made as far in advance as possible. To learn more about Ocean House or make brunch reservations you can go to www.oceanhouseri.com or call (401) 584-7000.

,_LJ\[P]L *OLM 1VOU 2VSLZHY

Foodies of New England

65

North Star Sheep Farm Written by Peggy Bridges Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

66

Foodies of New England

“Natural, Ethical & Sustainable Sheep Farming”

Foodies of New England

67

Phil and Lisa Webster have owned and operated the North Star Sheep Farm since 1984. Having both been raised on multi-generation farms in Maine, they were able to realize their dream of sustainable sheep farming when they launched their natural lamb program at Whole Foods North Atlantic in May of 2011. They take pride in bringing to market the very best natural lamb products consistently, all year long. The Websters are recognized as prestigious breeders of pure bred sheep, both locally and nationally. They won the Fitted Ram Reserve Grand Champion at the North American International Suffolk Show in 2013, a division of the North American International Livestock Exposition.

The North Star Sheep Farm grazes its sheep on two vast tracts of land in the beautiful sprawling hills of southern 4HPUL ;OLPY /HTWZOPYL ÅVJR NYHaLZ VU [OL WHZ[\YLZ VM [OL 625-acre Collyer Brook Farm, which is adjacent to the site VM [OL ÄYZ[ ^H[LY WV^LYLK ^VVSLU TPSS PU [OL <UP[LK :[H[LZ ;OLPY :\MMVSR ÅVJR NYHaLZ PU [OL ÄLSKZ VM [OL /PSS -HYT ILOPUK the Denekas House, which is also the winter home for their rams as well as the place where they store all the hay for their ÅVJRZ )V[O WYVWLY[PLZ HYL SLHZLK [V [OLT I` [OL WLVWSL H[ Pineland Farms, a 5,000-acre working farm, business and

68

Foodies of New England

education center, and recreational venue that welcomes visitors to enjoy its beautiful rural landscape.

The property on which the North Star Farm homestead sits was originally the Isaac Stevens Farm. The acreage was cleared in the late 1700s and has been maintained as a working farm ever since. The Websters have established gardens in the woodland area adjacent to their homestead, which sits atop a hill. They are committed to keeping the property a rural landscape, and theirs is one of the only working sheep farms remaining in the town of Windham.

Phil and Lisa Webster devote themselves to the “natural, ethical and sustainable sheep farming” that is their passion.

They pride themselves on the quality of their natural lamb WYVK\J[Z HUK JLY[PÄLK VYNHUPJ WYVK\JL ;OLPY SHTI WYVKucts are available fresh at all Whole Foods markets across New England and on the menus of some notable chefs at many New England restaurants, such as Chef/Owner Champe Speidel of Persimmon in Bristol, Rhode Island, Chef/Owner Michael Scelfo of Alden & Harlow in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and Chef/Owner Andrew Taylor of Hugo’s in Portland, Maine.

Foodies of New England

69

7OPS HUK 3PZH >LIZ[LY V^ULY»Z VM 5VY[O :[HY :OLLW -HYT

70

Foodies of New England

â&#x20AC;&#x153;We devote ourselves to the natural, ethical and sustainable sheep farming, that is our passion.â&#x20AC;?

Foodies of New England

71

A True Bistro

For the freshest, most local, and most organic dining experience you can have, there’s only one place:

The Twisted Fork.

3TAFFORD 3TREET s #HERRY 6ALLEY -! s www.unclejaystwistedfork.com Reservations are recommended

Advertise with Foodies of New England 508-479-1171 72

Foodies of New England

JVU[PU\LK MYVT WHNL

“Yes, we are a Chinese restaurant, but we are in Vermont. Our goal is to deliver the most authentic Chinese cuisine with traditional cooking methods and principles with what we have here in northern New England.”

Among the most popular dishes that folks come back for time and again are Mock Eel, Buddha Sesame Beef (seitan actually) and Dry Fried Green Beans. The fare ranges from comfort food to the exotic and challenging. On the best encounters, there is a symbiosis of sorts between the guests and the kitchen, with rampant enthusiasm on all fronts, daring both parties to explore the leading edge of what truly creative cooking in the moment can achieve.

Here is a recent sampling of a tasting menu. Chef Duval states, “We do not post the Tasting Menu—even the servers don’t know. The fun part is you don’t know what you are getting!” :V\W VM [OL KH` *OPSSLK .HYSPJ *OP]L 7VYR /V[ HUK :V\Y *HIIHNL 9HKPZO *HRLZ :^LL[ WV[H[V K\TWSPUNZ 0TWLYPHS :LHMVVK :WYPUN 9VSSZ :^LL[ HUK W\UNLU[ >HSU\[Z 7V\JOLK @\ *OV` ^P[O /VUN 2VUN :H\JL ;OYLL *\W *OPJRLU *HZOL^ 7VYR So next time you are up in the northwest region of New England, make a point to visit this hip, fun-loving college town and treat yourself to a special event A Single Pebble. A seven-year reign atop the restaurant standings in this food-centric state speaks volumes about their dedication as a Mecca for Chinese food enthusiasts everywhere.

A Single Pebble 133 Bank Street Burlington, VT 05401 802.865.5200 www.asinglepebble.com

Pasta (and Life): 101

The “F” Word…

I

Written by Christopher Rovezzi Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

*OLM *OYPZ[VWOLY 9V]LaaP Z[HY[LK PU [OL YLZ[H\YHU[ I\ZPULZZ H[ HNL ^HZOPUN WV[Z HUK WHUZ H[ OPZ KHK»Z YLZ[H\YHU[ PU >VYJLZ[LY 4( >OLU OPZ KHK JSVZLK [OL KVVYZ [V [OL VYPNPUHS 9V]LaaP»Z 9LZ[H\YHU[ P[ MVYJLK *OYPZ V\[ PU[V [OL J\SPUHY` ^VYSK [V JVU[PU\L OPZ [YHPUPUN /L H[[YPI\[LZ T\JO VM OPZ Z\JJLZZ [V [OL `LHYZ OL ZWLU[ \UKLY *OLM ;VTTHZV .HYN\PSSV *OYPZ YL VWLULK 9V]LaaP»Z PU PU :[\YIYPKNL 4( HUK OHZ OHWWPS` WYV]PKLK [OL JVTT\UP[` ^P[O OPZ [HRL VU 0[HSPHU HUK 4LKKP[LYHULHU J\PZPUL L]LY ZPUJL *OYPZ PZ H [^V [PTL ^PUULY VM ¸>VYJLZ[LYZ )LZ[ *OLM¹ JVTWL[P[PVU HUK HSZV ¸0YVU *OLM¹ *OHTWPVU VM 2UV^U MVY S\Z[` OLHY[` KPZOLZ [OH[ HYL ZPTWS` WYLWHYLK OPZ MVJ\Z SH[LS` OHZ ILLU HY[PZPUHS OHUK THKL WHZ[HZ

74

Foodies of New England

t is widely known that I am not a huge fan of fresh-faced culinary graduates who show up at my kitchen door with their diploma in one hand and a pristine canvas knife case in the other stating that they’re ready to run my kitchen, simply because the school told them that they were a chef.

It is the lack of practical experience that students receive before being sent out into the harsh environment of real world cooking that I have an issue with.

Having said that…I am not beyond learning a few things from these green horns. As a matter of fact, I truly envy their adventurous spirit when it comes to mixing ingredients and mashing up cuisines.

They call it “global inspiration” or “Modern American Fare,” but basically it’s the same fusion cooking that has been around since the early ‘80s But whatever you do, DON’T call it fusion.

“Fusion” cooking has a stigma now, mostly because of the disappointing execution by so many chefs who mixed cuisines for the sake of mixing. They played a game that I call “ingredient roulette” where ethnic ingredients are picked randomly and thrown together with items from a different country and BAM…you have a new dish! The problem is, those chefs didn’t spend any time YLZLHYJOPUN [OL PUNYLKPLU[Z VY SLHYUPUN [OL M\UKHTLU[HSZ VM ÅH]VY HUK IHSHUJL Just because you CAN mix wasabi with risotto and blueberries…doesn’t mean you should. There have been far too many fusion failures.

It’s easy to call something “Peruvian-Japanese” or “Afro-Asian-Cubano” It’s a whole different thing to understand those cuisines and have a feel for what ingredient will complement another.

A young Portuguese cook taught me how to make Feijoada a long time ago.

It took me years to perfect…and only then did I decide to combine that most classic of Brazilian dishes with some of my homemade pasta. In my mind, my potato gnocchi would have the body and texture to hold up to the pork and the beans in the dish. I hope I was right…

“Italo-Brazilian” anyone?

Feijoada recipe Ingredients: SRXQG EODFN EHDQV GULHG ò QRW FDQQHG 1 pound salted pork ribs 1 pound salted bacon 8 tablespoons olive oil RQLRQV SHHOHG DQG ðQHO\ FKRSSHG FORYHV JDUOLF SHHOHG ðQHO\ FKRSSHG ODUJH VPRNHG VDXVDJHV FXW LQWR ELJ chunks SRXQG VPRNHG SRUN ULEV FXW LQWR pieces SRXQG VPRNHG EDFRQ FXW LQWR FKXQNV 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 5 bay leaves Four servings of your favorite potato gnocchi recipe DIRECTIONS Soak the beans in cold water overnight, making sure they are completely covered.

Also soak the salted ribs and bacon in cold water overnight.

Drain the beans and put them into a large saucepan of cold water. Bring to the boil over medium heat, then simmer for 30 minutes until tender.

Rinse the soaked salted ribs and bacon well, add to the beans and cook for 30 minutes over a medium heat. Heat a very large saucepan and pour in the olive oil so it covers the bottom. Add the onions and garlic and cook until softened. Add the sausages, smoked ribs and bacon, pepper and bay leaves. Pour in the cooked beans and meat and top up with water. Simmer for about 1 hour, until the meat falls off the bone.

Serve the Feijoada over your favorite potato gnocchi.

Foodies of New England

75

76

Foodies of New England

:JHSSVW JY\KV ,UNSPZO WLHZ ºTPUP RPUNZ» NPUNLY TPU[ J\YK ZTVRLK ZHS[

CHEF’S TABLES

Stages at One Washington A Seat at the Chef’s Table Written by Sarah Connell Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

A meal at Evan Hennessey’s chef’s table unfolds in elaborate and delicate layers, just as one might expect from an establishment aptly named: Stages. More surprising is the way that Hennessey’s kitchen serves as a stage in itself; the careful choreography of his culinary team is awe-inspiring. Guests at Stages sit speechless at the kitchen helm, mesmerized by the silent synchronicity of its chefs. To the tune of a James Brown playlist, Hennessey and his crew partake in a routine of calculated movements, their finite precision only matched by the electric heat sources that power the kitchen.

Foodies of New England

77

)LL[Z YLK X\PUVH OLYIZ J\YY` ZTVRL

Stages at One Washington is located in a converted stuKPV VU [OL [OPYK ÅVVY VM H OPZ[VYPJ TPSS I\PSKPUN PU +V]LY 5L^ Hampshire. Stages’ atmosphere does not thrive off the stabbing of tickets or the adrenaline of a dinner rush – in fact, most nights Chef Hennessey serves no more than eight cus[VTLYZ /LUULZZL` PZ [OL ÄYZ[ [V ZH` ¸0[ PZ UV[ HIV\[ JV]LYZ it is not about volume - it is about consistency.” Since April 2013, Hennessey has opened his French doors for a nightly MV\Y JV\YZL WYP_ Ä_L TLU\ L]LY` ;\LZKH` [OYV\NO :H[\YKH` Stages may boast a recent James Beard nomination, and there are a number of potential advantages that their competitors possess that they do not – for starters: a host, a dishwasher, a bartender, an expediter, runners, bussers, and servers. At Stages, the entire experience of service has been delegated to three chefs. Hennessey explains that he selects his staff “based on both their cooking abilities and their characters.” In his opinion, even a newly designated Rising Star Chef should not balk at doing his own dishes or showing a lady to the door to help her with her coat.

The menu at Stages is ingredient-driven and therefore constantly evolving. A core group of local farmers call Stages regularly to keep Hennessey rich in fresh ingredients.

When asked why he chooses not to detail all of the farms on his menu like many of his “farm to table” counterparts, Hennessey shrugs and states, “It seems foolish to label everything as local when local, fresh ingredients should be an expectation.”

Dishes are noted on the menu as simple lists of ingredients, requiring guests to listen carefully to Hennessey as he articulates compelling details of preparation. Beets, red quinoa, herbs, curry, and smoke become a masterpiece of sweet, earthy textures bound by spongy bits of tantalizing pound cake. Dishes are playfully rendered into gorgeous works of art: bold, fuchsia watermelon-radishes served with soft, pink

78

Foodies of New England

pig-terrine, or scallops sliced as thinly as rose petals presented with savory sulfur-beans. After every course, ingredients are carefully labeled and stored in their places, a showcase of MYLZOULZZ HUK LMÄJPLUJ` Components are thoughtfully paired based on their relationships in nature. Hennessey smiles amidst dinner service to share quietly that he tries to “bring the animal back to where it came from” by pairing it with the produce that it naturally consumes. “What grows together goes together – we’re not NLUP\ZLZ ¹ OL ZH`Z SPNO[S` 0U JVUÄYTH[PVU VM [OPZ WVPU[ OL ZL[Z down an enticing Crème D’Argent rabbit loin wrapped in belly meat, expertly paired with carrots, Gnocchi alla Romana, and a broth reduced from hay, nutmeg, and oranges.

For dessert, guests indulge in chocolate ‘bubbles’ served with burnt meringue, chocolate mousse, gingerbread and butterscotch. The ‘bubble’, like a poached egg, oozes into the rest of the dish once pierced with a spoon. An evening at Stages is rounded out by a special blend of coffee served up in a French press and a spoon full of cheesecake-sorbet topped with sticky orange marmalade.

Hennessey humbly admits that landing a reserva[PVU H[ :[HNLZ OHZ NYV^U T\JO TVYL KPMÄJ\S[ ZPUJL his James Beard nomination. To reserve a seat at the chef’s table, or inquire about special events like the ‘Outdoor Pop-Up’ in August, call (603) 842-4077 or email reservations@stages-dining.com. :HYHO *VUULSS PZ HU (JJV\U[ ,_LJ\[P]L HUK >YP[LY MVY 2PSS [OL )HSS 4LKPH PU >VYJLZ[LY 4(

Stages at One Washington One Washington Street, Suite 325 Dover, NH 03820 603.842.4077 www.stages-dining.com

,_LJ\[P]L *OLM ,]HU /LUULZZL`

;OL *OLM»Z ;HISL H[ :[HNLZ

Foodies of New England

79

80

Foodies of New England

=LHS SVPU JOVW ^P[O W\SSLK WVYR WV[H[V OHZO

CHEF’S TABLES

Longing for

Lattitude Written by David G. Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Jeffrey Daigneau was born in Westfield but moved to Agawam when he was two. “My mother worked in the Agawam schools for many years while my father, a Navy veteran, worked for Dennison National and Mercy Hospital. My parents never gave us limitations when we went out to eat. If a server handed us kid’s menus, my father would almost cut their hands off! We were encouraged to try lobster, steak, and everything in between. At home, my mother made dishes such as American chop suey and Ritz Cracker crumb crusted chicken. As a family we had dinner together every night at 5:30, no exceptions, except for the one night a week we went out for dinner. We were one of the only sets of children allowed in the Federal Hill Club [now The Federal], a place my parents frequented.”

Foodies of New England

81

Chef Daigneau described what it was like starting Lattitude: “When I began the journey I looked at a few other locations PU >LZ[ÄLSK HUK :WYPUNÄLSK OV^L]LY none seemed to be “it” … until I walked into the former Caffeine’s space on MeTVYPHS (]LU\L PU >LZ[ :WYPUNÄLSK 0 LUtered a room that had been closed for two years and had nothing but a bar, a walk in, and tons of dust. But it also had character and history, and that spoke to me. I knew this was “it” and I fell in love.

But there was a catch: this space came with the stipulation that I was 33% chefowner, not 100%, as there was more than one party involved. I walked away.

Something in me kept checking in with the realtor and soon the [original] deal fell through and the owners of the building offered it to me. I don’t remember blinking before I showed up, check in hand.”

“So there I was, owner of my own space, master of my domain. I worked day and night to bring the concept to life — the concept of Lattitude. The name came to me as I thought of something that meant “global” or “international.”

When you think about latitude, it circles the globe … I added the second “t” for H[[P[\KL, or feeling/emotion. So, global food with an attitude.”

Word of mouth spread quickly and people were coming in. A major setIHJR ^HZ [OLPY ÄYZ[ HK]LU[\YL ^P[O

82

Foodies of New England

The Big E — the Eastern States Exhibition complex, right across the street from the restaurant — which almost W\[ [OLT \UKLY K\L [V P[Z OLH]` [YHMÄJ and limited parking, but six years later they welcome their large, sprawling neighbor.

Most recently, Chef Daigneau began to source local dairy with Mapleline Farms, convinced that the best tastes come from the freshest foods. While everything is technically farm-to-table, this movement is very important as it’s about the time lapse from the farm to the table — the cutting out of processes in between that can detract from the taste and freshness. This of course means higher food costs, but Chef Daigneau states that he won’t compromise his brand or his customer’s experience to

lower them.

Lattitude’s new event space has really added to the experience. Hosting everything from a cocktail party for 50 to weddings just over 100, the room is a true extension of who they are ... and they are heavily booked into this year and next. In addition, it has created awareness of their off-site catering and event planning services. With their catering and events division, the Lattitude experience can go on the road and deliver amazing events of almost any size and at any location. They also offer Day-Of-Coordinator services, as well as rental coordination, to ensure the entire event runs perfectly.

As much as any chef or restaurant makes their living on the day-today menu offerings, themed dinners

and special events are where they â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and Chef Daigneau â&#x20AC;&#x201D; really shine. These events usually sell out and range from 40-60 guests. They try to keep them smaller to add to the experience, however with the new event space theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be able to open a few more this coming season.

Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sampling of several recent themed dinners that highlight Chef Daigneauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inspirations and culinary prowess: Charles Smith Wine Dinner 9H^ @LSSV^[HPS - osetra caviar, preserved lemons, vichyssoise, pickled beets, micro-wasabi Washington State Cedar Planked Steelhead Salmon - fennel potato rosti, cherry black pepper compote, spring ramps *OHYJ\[LYPL 7SH[L - duck and pistachio sausage with sage and garlic, smoked chicken pate en croute, sweet mango blackberry relish, cranberry ketchup *VHS )V\YIVU :TVRLK ,SR *OVW - rehydrated dried fruit relish, tobacco currant brown jus, baked mac & cheese, spring Jersey asparagus 2L` 3PTL ;HY[ - apricot sorbet, tangerine ice cream, freeze-dried cranberries. +VNĂ&#x201E;ZO /LHK )LLY +PUULY *OPSSLK >LSSĂ&#x2026;LL[ 6`Z[LYZ - pink grapefruit and mango pearls, vanilla blood orange foam :LZHTL :LHYLK +P]LY :JHSSVW J\YYPLK ZOLSSĂ&#x201E;ZO risotto, bacon powder, crispy vegetables

,_LJ\[P]L *OLM 1LMMYL` +HPNULH\ HUK Z[HMM

JVU[PU\LK VU WHNL

Foodies of New England

83

*OHP )\YU[ 6YHUNL 1\UPWLY :TVRLK 7VYR 9HJR - coconut baked banana sweet potatoes, colored beets, carrot chips, corn shoots, orange cardamom nage )SHJRLULK ¸:V\Z =PKL¹ ;LUKLYSVPU 3VIZ[LY *YHI *HRL sweet pickled apples, tarragon caper gelato, ancho BBQ emulsion, Tobika caviar :^LL[ 7V[H[V =HUPSSH )YLHK 7\KKPUN - maple caramel, whole milk ice cream, black sea salt

No report on Lattitude is complete without “The Brussel Sprouts Legend.” Chef Daigneau claims this actually came about by a happy accident. He was cutting them up and a few fell into the fry-o-lator. He tried them for fun and they tasted good — the crispness of being fried without a breaded coating. He played around to get the taste he wanted, paired it with the aioli, and suddenly they were a hit. Now they are a menu staple and in constant demand. “We became known for them and to this day you still hear ‘Lattitude? I love the V1 Vodka Martini Dinner .YPSSLK :HYKPULZ - pickled red onions, chervil, lemon aioli, brussel sprouts!’”

Asked about potential expansion, Chef Daigneau is set for sesame crackers now.

He’s focusing on the present, on how to keep himself 2VYLHU ))8 7YLZZ\YL *VVRLK 7VYR )LSS` HKVIV RHMÄY SPTL and his staff educated to grow as a team, and on how to leaves, sweet onion slaw, fried chickpeas =LUPZVU ;HY[HY - fried eggs Benedict, salsify, dried tomatoes, bring new and exciting concepts to the area. In fact, he and key staff just returned from the largest catering and events olives, capers 7YVZJP\[[V >YHWWLK :LH )HZZ - spinach, ricotta and egg yolk conference, Catersource, where they gathered with over 500 catering/event professionals from around the world to learn, ravioli, edamame, fennel 7YHSPUL 7YVÄ[LYVSLZ - vanilla rose (love) ice cream, salted share industry knowledge and tips, brainstorm, and connect.

Clearly Chef Daigneau and his trained staff have the skills — caramel, yuzu curd and attitude — to keep restaurant Lattitude in the culinary These concept menus came from Chef’ Daigneau’s love forefront for the future. and appreciation of wine and spirits paired with the resLattitude taurant’s theme of bringing global fare local. His creativity 1338 Memorial Avenue stretched to attempt scotch pairings with a cigar component >LZ[ :WYPUNÄLSK 4( and even a “blind” dinner theme setting where guests ate in 413.241.8888 the dark, heightening their sense of taste. www.lattitude1338.com

84

Foodies of New England

Design That Impacts The Eye & Connects The Brand

ÂŽ

Would like to thank Chef Enrico Giovanello of Avellino for his Campari Watermelon Granita recipe.

Stop in today and try them!

Richard Bridges Design is a graphic design studio specializing in brand identity, product packaging, collateral, and advertising, incorporating contemporary design solutions with sophisticated elegance.

Call today to learn how we can help your business grow.

sturbridge, ma 01566 508.517.5084 www.richardbridgesdesign.com

502 Main Street Sturbridge, MA 01518 508-347-2321 www.avellinorestaurant.com

Foodies of New England

85

Food for Thought

RAISING Foodie Kids The importance of passing on tradition

Written by Peggy Bridges Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

7LNN` )YPKNLZ PZ H OPNO ZJOVVS )\ZPULZZ HUK .YHWOPJ (Y[Z [LHJOLY :OL PZ H @LHYIVVR (K]PZVY HUK ,KP[VY HUK OLY ^YP[PUN OHZ HSZV ILLU W\ISPZOLK PU H UH[PVUHS LK\JH[VY»Z THNHaPUL 7LNN` PZ H ÄYT ILSPL]LY PU OLHS[O` SP]PUN HUK HU HJ[P]L SPMLZ[`SL :OL LUQV`Z THU` V\[KVVY HJ[P]P[PLZ ^P[O OLY O\ZIHUK HUK JOPSKYLU /LY YLJPWL MVY H WLYMLJ[ HM[LYUVVU PZ H OPRL ^P[O OLY MHTPS` HUK S\UJO VU H ISHURL[ ZLY]LK MYVT H WPJUPJ IHZRL[ WHJRLK ^P[O NYLH[ MVVK HUK IV[[SL VM NVVK ^PUL

Most of us have pleasant memories of some sort from our childhood surrounding activities and traditions that we enjoyed doing with our family. Many of those memories and traditions are related to food. Whether they be consumption or preparation, the memories surrounding those foods bring back a sense of nostalgia because of their familiarity and association with home.

Perhaps you remember those delicious cookies your grandmother used to make, or that favorite meal of yours that Mom would often cook on special occasions. Even if your family wasn’t into gourmet cooking, there is still a certain feeling of comfort that comes with having a familiar meal or treat. There’s something to be said for the old adage, “There’s nothing like Mom’s cooking.”

It doesn’t matter if the memory is of something as simplistic as hot dogs and beans; the point is that it was a tradition that makes you hearken back to a time and place that brings you comfort.

Another thing that comes with family traditions, especially cooking traditions, is that they usually involve a parent or grandparent working side-by-side with a child or two, teaching them how to cook something in a particular way.

In doing so, we are passing on a tradition. We are giving our children something intangible that they can, in turn, pass on to their children. It is a way of preserving our culture and our heritage that might otherwise be lost.

The world’s cultures that survive today are still in existence because the traditions that are so much a part of them have been passed down from generation to generation. There is pride and a sense of honor that go hand in hand with carrying on the practices and beliefs of our elders and our ancestors.

Think of the delectable Italian dishes that are passed on from Noni to daughter HUK ZVU NYHUKKH\NO[LY HUK NYHUKZVU VY [OL WYLWHYH[PVU VM ÄUL -YLUJO WHZtries that Mèmé always insisted must be taught in her kitchen for the recipe to be perfected. One of the most humorous, and most honest, portrayals of the importance of family tradition that I can remember was the movie “My Big Fat Greek Wedding.” As much as the daughter was frustrated with her family’s NYHWWSPUN OVSK VU [YHKP[PVU ZOL HUK OLY ÄHUJt LTIYHJLK [OL .YLLR J\Z[VTZ that were an inherent part of the family’s culture, right down to the lamb and Sambucca in their Easter celebration.

I know that, for me, the kitchen was always a busy place. My mother had learned quite a bit about cooking from her own mother. Theirs was a large French family that had always celebrated any occasion with large amounts of mouth-watering food. Growing up in this way, my mother became very comJVU[PU\LK VU WHNL

86

Foodies of New England

Chicken Breast with Avocado, Tomato and Cheese Ingredients: Two chicken breasts One large tomato One avocado Shredded cheese (Italian or Monterey Jack) 2 tbsp. butter 1 tbsp. minced garlic Preparation: Slice the chicken breasts in half sideways to make two thinner pieces from each one, for a total of four pieces. Cut open the avocado, remove the meat to a bowl, and mash it until creamy. Slice the tomato in 1/4 inch thick slices.

Melt the butter with the garlic in a large skillet. When the pan is hot and butter is bubbling, add the chicken. Cover and cook on medium-high about 4 minutes per side.

When the chicken is about 2 minutes from being done, remove the cover and spread avocado on top of each piece. Add tomato slices on top of the avocado, then top with cheese. Cover again and cook for one additional minute. Remove from heat,but leave the cover on until the cheese is melted. Serve with vegetable and a starch if desired.

Foodies of New England

87

fortable with cooking at an early age. That upbringing made her quite comfortable with cooking good, healthy foods for her own family. Not that the preparations were necessarily gourmet in nature, but they were meals and treats that I enjoyed then and even now. I used to look forward to helping my mother make her homemade black raspberry preserves and relishes. She also had a great recipe for slow-cooked baked beans with bacon, but since I never took to beans as a child, that wasn’t a recipe I made an effort to learn how to prepare.

Holidays especially are deeply rooted in tradition for most families. Growing up in my house, Thanksgiving brought with P[ [OL [YHKP[PVUHS [\YRL` HUK HSS [OL Ä_PUNZ HZ ^LSS HZ HWWSL pumpkin, and pecan pies for dessert. Those preparations were always followed by the traditional turkey soup made from the carcass and leftover turkey, which I still make to this day. Christmas was associated largely with baking cookies.

We had several favorite recipes that had been passed down from my Mèmé, two of which were Ginger Spice Cookies and the ultimate family favorite, Snickerdoodles. My own children really look forward to helping me make cookies during the holiday season. It’s a fun activity and it’s actually a great way to bond with your kids.

Another of my kids’ favorite recipes is for Finnish Pancakes.

88

Foodies of New England

It’s their favorite breakfast and I make it for them as a treat on weekend mornings when we don’t all have to rush off to something. My daughter likes the recipe so much that she decided one morning that she was going to learn how to make them herself, and set about asking me to instruct her as she went through the process. She was a bit of a novice H[ ÄYZ[ HUK ^HZ SLZZ [OHU WSLHZLK [OH[ [OL` KPKU»[ JVTL V\[ L_HJ[S` SPRL TPUL [OL ÄYZ[ [PTL ( ML^ WYHJ[PJLZ SH[LY [OV\NO and with a few tips from Mom in the preparation method, and she’s now quite good at making them. It’s heart-warming to see the sense of pride on her face when she knows she’s successfully replicated Mom’s recipe. I actually got the recipe from my sister, who got it from her Swedish mother-in-law, so it’s been passed down through quite a few generations.

I’d have to say one of my kids’ favorite dinners is one I make with chicken breast, avocado, tomato, and cheese. I’m not sure what to call it because I just sort of came up with it VUL L]LUPUN ^OLU 0 ^HZ [Y`PUN [V ÄUK ZVTL[OPUN 0 JV\SK WYLpare with what I had in the refrigerator. The experiment turned out to be a hit. My husband asked me to make it for dinner when we had some friends over, and they liked it quite a bit too. I’m sure there’s a similar recipe somewhere, but I’ll share my own and you can be the judge.

There’s one more thing that comes into play when we make traditional family recipes: they’re usually made from fresh, wholesome ingredients that are far healthier than any fast food or pre-packaged meals. If your kids never learn how easy it is to make cookies from scratch, as adults all they’ll RUV^ PZ I\`PUN WHJRHNLK JVVRPLZ [OH[ HYL ÄSSLK ^P[O JOLTPcal preservatives, and don’t taste anywhere near as good, either. If they don’t learn how easy it is to sauté a chicken breast and top it with a couple of simple ingredients, they’re likely to become adults who buy frozen dinners or eat out of a can. It’s a well-known fact that eating out costs considerably more than cooking meals at home. If, when your kids become young adults and begin living on their own, they eat out just about every day simply because they can’t cook for themselves, they’ll probably go broke in a very short time. So consider that by teaching your children how to cook: you’re HSZV THRPUN [OLT TVYL ZLSM Z\MÄJPLU[ HUK IL[[LY HISL [V MLLK themselves on a budget.

Whether it’s cookies or cakes, breakfast, lunch, or dinner, when your children remark how much they enjoy something that you cook often, make it a point to set aside some time on a Saturday or Sunday or whenever you can Ä[ P[ PU[V `V\Y ZJOLK\SL·HUK [LHJO [OLT OV^ [V THRL P[ themselves. Share the experience together. Years from now when you’re not around, they’ll think warmly of you and of home when they cook it. It’s a great gift to give your children, so remember—pass it on.

Finnish Pancakes Ingredients: 3 large eggs 1 1/2 cups milk 1/2 cup flour 2 Tbsp. sugar 1/2 tsp. salt 2 Tbsp. butter Preparation: 7YLOLH[ V]LU [V รก :SPJL I\[[LY PU[V [OPU WPLJLZ MVY MHZ[LY melting and place in a 2-quart baking dish. Place baking dish in oven while it preheats, allowing butter to melt while recipe is prepared.

Place eggs, milk, sugar, and salt in a mixing bowl and ILH[ VU TLKP\T ZWLLK VY TP_ ^P[O H ^OPZR (KK ร V\Y \U[PS blended, then pour immediately into the preheated baking dish with the melted butter in the bottom. (Butter will come up around edges and mix somewhat with egg mixture.) )HRL H[ รก MVY TPU\[LZ 9LTV]L HUK HSSV^ [V JVVS 5 minutes. Cut into squares and remove from pan with a spatula. (Recipe will puff up when baked, but will fall and ร H[[LU HZ P[ JVVSZ

Snickerdoodles Ingredients: 2 3/4 cups flour 1 cup shortening 1 1/2 cups sugar 2 eggs 2 tsp. cream of tartar 1 tsp. baking soda 1/2 tsp. salt Cinnamon and sugar for coating Preparation: Cream together the shortening, sugar, and eggs. Combine dry ingredients and add to the creamed mixture a little at a time. The batter will be stiff. Form batter into balls the size of walnuts and roll in a mixture of cinnamon and sugar. Place 2 inches apart on ungreased cookie sheets and bake at รก MVY TPU\[LZ

Foodies of New England

89

Queen of the Mountain Maplebrook Farm’s Ever-Expanding Cheese Dynasty Written by Stacy Horowitz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Behind every exotic dish at your favorite restaurant is a specialty ingredient which gives the meal some SVJHS ÅH]VY 0M `V\ OH]L L]LY KPULK out at some of the East Coast’s topnotch restaurants, you are probably well acquainted with dishes containing cheeses that melt in your mouth. That smoked mozzarella in your summer salad or velvety ricotta in your appetizer comes from none other than a little town called Bennington in the Green Mountains of Vermont. Think of Maplewood Farms as the cheese provider to the stars of the restaurant world.

“I had the palette, and Michael had the cheese making skills since he is a third generation cheese maker, [so] we joined forces to become Maplebrook Farms,” laughs Johann Englert when reminiscing about her endeavor to start a cheese business with coowner Michael Scheps. “We started with mozzarella, and as a result, have an extremely loyal following with our fresh mozzarella products. Within the last few years, after adding burrata to our product list, many if not all of our customers have started to order it. It has become very popular, especially on restaurant menus,” say Johann of one of their most popular cheeses, which seems to be on everyone’s menu nowadays.

90

Foodies of New England

Maplebrook Farm’s luscious creamy burrata has made a splash at Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse in Boston appearing on their appetizer menu in the “La Quercia Prosciutto Americano, Dried Salumi, Burrata, Aged Balsamic” dish.

Delmonico’s Restaurant Group, known for its culinary sophistication, has featured the celebrated Maplebrook burrata on their New York City and South Hampton menus. Delmonico’s Kitchen features the burrata in their “Roasted Beets Grilled Pear, Pistachio, Baby Arugula, and Saba” offering, while Delmonico’s Southampton headlines it in their “Maplebrook Farm Burrata with La Quercia Prosciutto, wild rockers, and Charred Long Island Peaches.”

And just when you think they have the East Coast covLYLK·[OPUR HNHPU ;OL ÅH]VY VM 4HWSLIYVVR -HYTZ OHZ L_panded to the Caribbean.

“We were recently informed that the Ritz Carlton, Cayman Islands is featuring our burrata on their menu! It is such exciting news that we are handcrafting cheese in Vermont, and then it’s making its way down to warmer waters, gaining exposure at such a well-known and prestigious establishment!” said Johann and Mike. “We are extremely proud and honored. It is a wonderful feeling of accomplishment to know that such esteemed chefs think are products are worthy of being featured on their menus.”

Even though Maplebrook Farms is known for their mozzarella and burrata, their feta and ricotta are also well-received and have won awards from the American Cheese Society.

“We recently started making a feta to which we have added [OL Z\I[SL ZTVR` ÅH]VY VM JOLYY`^VVK JOPWZ 0[»Z ]LY` \UPX\L

1VOHUU ,UNSLY[ HUK 4PJOHLS :JOLWZ

JVU[PU\LK VU WHNL

Foodies of New England

91

and is gaining a following quite quickly,” said Johann. Other cheeses include: a silky blocked and crumpled feta, stracciatella (strands of mozzarella in cream—similar to string cheese), cheddar bites made with sea salt, handmade and smoked scarmoza, and their own fontina brava with nutty undertones. The ricotta alta is the newest product to launch.

“While the products are not the only of their kind on the market, what makes them unique is the hands-on process in which they are created, and the wholesome, fresh ingredients used to make them,” said Maplebrook Farms Business Development Manager Sarah Livingstone.

The company grew from three people and is currently approaching forty strong. This includes an impressive master cheesemaker from Italy who serves at the helm as the farm’s main chef. The farm largely churns out Italian cheeses, but the roster is very diverse. “Everyone helps with the cheese

making process here!” said Sarah.

What’s the most surprising thing about the cheese-making process from the co-owners? “I am always surprised at how few ingredients can go into making a successful cheese,” said Johann. “The actual process of creating cheese takes years of knowledge, trial and error, and failures as well as successes to come up with the end result. It is a balance between using the right ingredients and having the knowledge of how to turn those ingredients into something great,” said Mike.

“Although we do have some rather large accounts, we are not a mass-producer in the industry…we take the time and care to craft each batch of cheese we sell,” said Sarah. ;V L_WLYPLUJL TVYL VM 4HWSLIYVVR -HYT»Z ÄUL HYYH` VM artisan cheeses, please be sure to visit these restaurants and hotels in and around the Boston area: Lincoln Tavern & Restaurant, Sorellina’s, Café Escadrille in Burlington, Renaissance Boston Waterfront Hotel, Omni Parker House Hotel, and the Back Bay Hotel. For sales or product information, contact Julie Lamothe, VP, Director of Sales, at Julie@maplebrookvt.com or 802-777-0540.

Maplebrook Farm 453 East Road Bennington, VT 05201 802.440.9950 www.maplebrookvt.com

The Shrine Welcomes Pilgrims Year Round

Gift Shop open 7 days, 10-5 Free Icon Exhibit Located in Store www.StAnneStPat.org St. Anne Shrine 16 Church Street Fiskdale, Massachusetts 01518 Telephone 508 347-7338

92

Foodies of New England

Congratulations to Executive Chef Neil Rogers of Volturno Pizza in Worcester, MA! Winner of the Iron Chef Round of the Worcester’s Best Chef Competition 2014!

Neil will be elevated to the Judges Panel at Worcester’s Best Chef 2015.

The Worcester’s Best Chef culinary competition is the premier culinary event throughout Central New England and boasts the most exclusive, creative, & finest epicurean masterpieces to be found anywhere.

Worcester’s Best Chef

Healthy at Home

Recipes by Elaine Pusateri Cowan Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

^^^ LSHPULW\ZH[LYPJV^HU JVT ZLL HK VU WHNL

,SHPUL Z[YP]LZ [V JYLH[L ILH\[` L]LY`KH` >OL[OLY ZOL»Z KLZPNUPUN PU[LYPVYZ WYLWHYPUN HWWL[PaLYZ VY LU[YLLZ HUK L]LU YLÃ&#x201E;UPZOPUN M\YUP[\YL VY THRPUN HY[ ZOL HS^H`Z SVVRZ [V ZH[PH[L OLY HWWL[P[L MVY HSS [OPUNZ HY[PZ[PJ (Z HU HY[PZ[ HUK HKTPUPZ[YH[VY VM [OL HY[Z MVVKPL PU[LYPVY KLZPNULY HUK NHYKLULY ,SHPUL ILSPL]LZ PU [OL X\HSP[` VM Z\Z[HPUHISL SPML UV[ Q\Z[ SP]PUN ^LSS /LY Z[YVUN ZLUZL VM K\[` [V PU[LNYH[L Z\JO Z\Z[HPUHIPSP[` PU[V L]LY` HZWLJ[ VM KVTLZ[PJ SPML ILNPUZ ^P[O WLYOHWZ [OL TVZ[ IHZPJ VM HSS LSLTLU[Z! KPL[ :OL ILSPL]LZ [OH[ HU`VUL ^P[O H Z[VJRLK WHU[Y` HUK SVJHS WYVK\JL JHU ^OPW \W X\PJR MYLZO HUK KLSPJPV\Z TLHSZ L]LY` UPNO[

94

Foodies of New England

A lotTa

FRITTATA I am a little nervous that I may be committing foodie treason in this next statement, but here goes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not always about the food.

It is, and it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t. )\[ Ă&#x201E;YZ[ H SP[[SL IP[ HIV\[ MYP[[H[H Frittata is one of those quick and comforting meals where every Italian family has a favorite version and a preferred way of cooking it. I took the easy way out and baked themâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;cook smarter, not harder. Although I recommend you try the ingredients in this recipe, VUS` ILJH\ZL 0 UHPSLK P[ HSS [OYLL HYL ZV ]LS]L[` [OH[ [OL` ^PSS TLS[ PU `V\Y TV\[O , frittata is one of those â&#x20AC;&#x153;all but the kitchen sinkâ&#x20AC;? meals.

So after you get the hang of it, feel free to improvise.

Now, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not always about the food...

What I mean is that for me, so many of my recipes have evolved from many memories of the people in front of the stove. When I think of frittata, the image of my father effortSLZZS` Ă&#x2026;PWWPUN P[ V]LY PU H OLH]` JHZ[ PYVU WHU PTTLKPH[LS` comes to mindâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;his enormous hands, gracefully urging the frittata into the air, then back into the panâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a talent, which sadly, I did not inherit.

Along with my husband, we collectively recalled that some of our fondest memories are of our early years, breaking bread with our landlords in their three-decker.

This couple set the bar for kindness and generosity. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not exaggerating when I say that Fugie would crank out 30 or more frittatas on Easter Eve for his beloved family and friends. To feed is fundamentally the most nurturing thing one can do for another. These people, their spirit, they live in my kitchen with me and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always room for one more at my table.

When you make this recipe, why not double it and give one away to a neighbor or a friend? You can always make food, but you can make a memory, too.

Foodies of New England

95

Patate di Rosmarino Ingredients: 5 large Vidalia onions Drizzle of olive oil 12 baby new potatoes 1/4 cup canola oil Pinch of kosher salt 3 pinches of dried rosemary HJJ ZKLWHV ZKROH HJJV EHDWHQ 1/3 cup whole milk 5-ounce log of chèvre DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Slice onions. In a Dutch Oven, over low heat, add the onions with some olive oil and a pinch of kosher salt until caramelized.

3. Slice baby new potatoes.

4. Heat 1/3 cup canola oil. Add one potato slice [V [LZ[ [OLU HKK [OL YLZ[ 6UJL IYV^ULK Ă&#x2026;PW 5. Once potatoes have browned on one side, add a pinch of kosher salt and 2 pinches of rosemary.

6. Spoon a tablespoon of oil out of the pan and into a pie plate; grease it.

7. Remove potatoes with a slotted spoon.

Shake off any excess oil. Add to pie plate.

8. Add the caramelized onions to the potatoes.

Smooth and level as you go.

9. Beat eggs. Add milk and beat some more.

Pour mixture over onions and potatoes.

10. Add 1/2 inch chunks of chèvre until entire 5-ounce log is gone.

11. Bake for 20-30 minutes.

12. Let cool slightly; loosen edges and cut into 8 wedges.

96

Foodies of New England

Foodies of New England

97

98

Foodies of New England

Basilico Ingredients: Drizzle of olive oil Pat of butter KDQGIXOV RI IUHVK FKRSSHG EDVLO HJJ ZKLWHV ZKROH HJJV EHDWHQ 1/3 cup whole milk 3 tbsp Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 13 heaping tbsp ricotta For Plating 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar 1/2 loaf Italian bread Drizzle of olive oil Parmigiano-Reggiano crisps Campari tomatoes DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. In a skillet, over medium heat, add a drizzle of olive oil and pat of butter.

3. Once butter is completely melted, add 2 handfuls of chopped basil.

4. Once basil begins to darken to a deep green, remove and add to a pre-greased pie plate.

5. Beat eggs. Add milk and beat some more.

Pour mixture over basil.

6. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons of ParmigianoReggiano on top.

7. Drop dollops of ricotta cheese. Space dollops 1/2 inch apart.

8. Bake for 20-30 minutes.

9. Let cool slightly; loosen edges and cut into 8 wedges.

DIRECTIONS 1. Reduce 1/2 cup of balsamic vinegar by 1/2 over low heat.

2. Slice Italian bread into 3/4 inch slices.

3. Add enough oil to a warmed skillet to coat the bottom. Add a generous pat of butter to the oil.

(I used the leftover oil from the potatoes in the Patate di Rosmarino frittata.)

4. Toast sliced bread in skillet. Flip when toast begins to brown.

5. For the Parmigiano-Reggiano crisps: mound heaping tablesppons of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese; when the edges brown and begin to melt and bubble, loosen the edges with a ZWH[\SH HUK JHYLM\SS` Ă&#x2026;PW 6. Place toast at the center of the plate. Halve Campari tomatoes and press them into the toast. Add fresh basil, a wedge of the Basilico MYP[[H[H HUK Ă&#x201E;UPZO ^P[O H KYPaaSL VM IHSZHTPJ reduction.

Foodies of New England

99

Spinaci Mostarda Ingredients: Drizzle of olive oil 2 cloves of chopped garlic 1 tbsp black mustard seeds 2 tbsp yellow mustard seeds 10 ounces or 6 cups of baby spinach leaves Pat of butter HJJ ZKLWHV ZKROH HJJV EHDWHQ 1/3 cup whole milk 13 (heaping) tbsp ricotta DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. In a skillet, over medium heat, add garlic and mustard seeds.

3. As soon as the garlic starts to turn a golden color, add the baby spinach in small batches.

4. As each small batch of spinach begins to wilt, add a pat of butter, then more spinach. Do this until all the spinach has been added.

5. Place all of the above into a greased pie plate.

6. Beat eggs. Add milk and beat some more.

Pour mixture over spinach.

7. Drop dollops of ricotta cheese. Space dollops 1/2 inch apart.

8. Bake for 20-30 minutes.

9. Let cool slightly; loosen edges and cut into 8 wedges.

100

Foodies of New England

Foodies of New England

101

Unjunked Candy Written by Eric Kalwarczyk Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

I had a short stint cooking at an assisted living community.

Besides preparing some of the unhealthiest food of my career for these poor souls living out their golden years, one of my duties was to bring meals beyond the locked-coded doors of the dementia ward. Here were kept the elderly AlzheimLY KLTLU[PH HMÅPJ[LK ZLUPVYZ :VTL ZH[ HUK Z[HYLK ISHURS` while some wandered about in circles completely unaware of where and who they were. I brought them their breakfast and lunches and often heard the resound of the nurses, “Don’t forget the snack.”

The Snack! The snack was usually cookies, brownies, cake, or something—always sweet. The breakfast and lunch always came back with uneaten food—the snack, never.

These people, loosely holding on to life somehow, in their demented state lost many of their abilities and senses that

we take for granted. The one sense they never lost was the craving for sweet stuff.

On the complete opposite end of the life journey, anyone who has spent any time with an infant baby has probably noticed an acute reaction to any sweet food given to it. A little sweet something on those toothless gums is well known to Z[VW H IH^SPUN [HU[Y\TPUN SP[[SL J\[PL PU TPK Ä[ :^LL[ PZ [OL ÄYZ[ ÅH]VY ZLUZL ^L YLJVNUPaL HUK [OL SHZ[ we lose. Throughout human evolution, people developed this sense for important survival reasons. In short, eating things which are sweet (simple carbohydrates) means quick energy for our bodies.

It is normal and healthy for a human to crave sweet things, what is not or should not be normal is the saturation of sugarladen products in and around every corner we turn.

JVU[PU\LK VU WHNL

102

Foodies of New England

Foodies

finds

Candy Without Junk:

Mom’s Dreams and Children’s Paradise

Written by Isabela Bessa Pelto

Imagine candy with less sugar and without all junk ingrediLU[Z SPRL HY[PÄJPHS JVSVYZ WYLZLY]H[P]LZ JVYU Z`Y\W HUK ^P[Oout a list of unpronounceable names … and with the same delicious taste that you are used to. Sounds unreal? That’s exactly the purpose of Unreal, a Boston-based company started by a 13 year old boy’s question and idea: “Why do the foods we love so much have to be so bad for us?”

The question was posed by Nicky Bronner after having his /HSSV^LLU [YLH[Z JVUÄZJH[LK `LHY HM[LY `LHY I` OPZ WHYLU[Z With the help of his older brother Kris and the support of their WHYLU[Z [OL [^V `V\UN LU[YLWYLUL\YZ [YPLK [V ÄUK H MVVK ZJPentist or a chef that would help them on creating “unjunked” candies. Their challenge was accepted by Chef Adam Melonas, and together started Unreal with the mission of “unjunking” the world. ;V JVTL \W ^P[O Ä]L YLPU]LU[LK JHUKPLZ HIV\[ H recipes were tested. The goal was to reduce the sugar content by about 50% per serving as compared to the recipes of “popular” brands — and to use responsibly-sourced ingredients that would not cause the destruction of rain forests and contain no GMOs. For example, the dairy products Unreal uses come from pasture-raised cows that are antibiotic free.

Unreal candy is also sold in stores side by side with their similar competitors — and at the same price.

According to Emily Keneally, Unreal’s Brand Director, the company keeps working on its focus to develop unjunked candies: “We’re constantly innovating our products at Unreal, and you can expect some delicious new candy introductions in late Summer 2014.”

Unreal Candy is becoming highly popular with the support of celebrities like Microsoft founder Bill Gates, actor Matt Damon, supermodel Gisele Bündchen, football player Tom Brady, and Twitter co-founder Jack Dorsey. Gates stated on OPZ VMÄJPHS ISVN [OH[ ¸¯[OPZ JHUK` TH` IL HU L_HTWSL VM OV^ innovation can be successful when it creates a better product, and proves that all of the junk and high amounts of sugar in many of our most popular foods … may not need to be [OLYL PU [OL ÄYZ[ WSHJL ¹ Kris Bronner was invited to talk at TEDxTeen last year where he spoke about Unreal’s mission on changing the world: “It is not enough just to do things right, you have to do the right thing. Integrity is to do the right thing even when no one is watching.”

The candies can be found in stores countrywide, but according to Keneally, their distribution is stronger especially in the northeast area of the country because of the company’s location. Unreal candies come in “unjunked” versions of mainstream popular brands, such as candy-coated chocolates, chocolate caramel nougat bars, peanut butter cups, chocolate caramel peanuts nougat bars, and candy-coated chocolate peanuts.

For more information about their products and locations where you can purchase them, visit Unreal on the web at http://www.getunreal.com.

+V `V\ OH]L H 5L^ ,UNSHUK IHZLK MVVK WYVK\J[ VY JVVR IVVR `V\»K SPRL [V ZLL VU [OL WHNLZ VM -VVKPLZ 4HNHaPUL& 3LHYU TVYL OLYL! ^^^ MVVKPLZVMUL^LUNSHUK JVT

Foodies of New England

103

Coming in the next issue of Foodies of New England!

Do You Have A Need For Video?

5L^ ,UNSHUK -Y\P[ *OHSSLUNL

Award Winning Professional HD Digital Video Production

-HYTLY»Z 4HYRL[Z

:OVV[ ,KP[ +\WSPJH[L >LI =PKLV *VTTLYJPHSZ 7YVTV[PVUHS =PKLVZ +VJ\TLU[HYPLZ ;YHPUPUN =PKLVZ :WVY[Z +LTVZ :[\KPV HUK 6U SVJH[PVU (\KPV 9LJVYKPUN )VV[O .YLLU :JYLLU >OLYL /PNO +LÄUP[PVU PZ THRPUN [OL ^VYSK `V\ ZLL Q\Z[ H SP[[SL IP[ JSLHYLY 7YVK\J[PVU JVTWHU` MVY ¸-VVKPLZ VM 5L^ ,UNSHUK¹ ;LSL]PZPVU ZOV^

5L^ ,UNSHUK -HYT -LH[\YL

4PSSIYVVR :[YLL[ >VYJLZ[LY 4(

^^^ SHWYPVYL]PKLV JVT

104

Foodies of New England

seemed to be a little young to be working in this highly-speJPHSPaLK ÄLSK I\[ 0»T UV[ VUL [V Z[HY[ [YV\ISL ZV 0 RLW[ X\PL[ (By the way: any relations of the researchers to the author is purely incidental.)

We sampled about 16 varieties of healthy candy and the results were fairly predictable. Most of it tasted less-than-delicious (“Nasty!” “Lousy!” “Dry!” “Gagging!” “Tree bark!” “Sandy!” and “Blah!” were some of the technical terms mentioned by the aforeTLU[PVULK L_WLY[Z /V^L]LY ^L KPK ÄUK [OYLL [OH[ HYL ^VY[O mentioning.

Coconut Secret-Classic Coconut Bar, www.coconutsecret.com Enjoy life-BoomChocoboom bar, www.enjoylifefoods.com Surf Sweets-Gummy worms, www.surfsweets.com Before industrial times, sweet things were not so easily gotten and therefore not abused and used to extreme. The processed food and candy industries have made billions overdosing Americans on high-sugar products. Food scientists have even come up with a “bliss point” which is the maximum amount of sugar a product can hold that will hopefully create a sort of “addiction” with the consumer. :V HZ ¸MVVKPLZ¹ ^OV VM JV\YZL JHYL HIV\[ ÅH]VY HUK OVWLfully care, at least somewhat, about personal health, how do we unjunk our candy?

The most obvious “healthy snack” would be fresh fruit or even dried fruit, but it would be reaching to label these under the candy category. Anything made with chemical sweetenLYZ PZ KLÄUP[LS` V\[! [OL` [HZ[L H^M\S HUK HU` OLHS[O ILULÄ[Z they may carry are spotty at best.

Ideally, we could make our own candy. This would give us control over all the ingredients. It seems to me though that candy is more of a purchased product, so maybe making our own candy could be a different discussion.

When many people think “candy”, they think “chocolate”— and rightly so. A good many of our sweet snacks contain chocolate. Despite some recent publicity of chocolate’s antioxidant and health properties a Hershey bar is not exactly health food. All that sugar and fat bring a whole lot of calories to the table, which counteract any associated health properties. The Aztecs believed chocolate was the food of the gods and usually mixed it with chili peppers and made some sort VM SPX\PK LSP_PY V\[ VM P[ 0[ ^HZ [OL ,\YVWLHUZ ^OV ÄYZ[ TP_LK P[ with sugar and made it into confections.

So I set out to do some necessary research on the matter VM \UQ\URLK JHUK` -PYZ[ 0 ULLKLK [V ÄUK JHUK` L_WLY[Z 3\JRPS` [OLYL ^LYL H JV\WSL VM X\HSPÄLK ¸JHUK` YLZLHYJOLYZ¹ PU T` area who were willing to help me. At 7 and 9 years old they

These are all fairly tasty, but not being a nutritionist, I don’t MLLS X\HSPÄLK [V [LSS HU`VUL [OL` HYL OLHS[O` )\[ ^P[O JHUK` unjunked or junked, or for that matter with just about anything in our lives, we should practice moderation.

Maybe candy should just be candy. It’s perhaps better to educate our children about healthy eating habits and lead by example than trying to turn candy into something it’s not.

Start Your Day Off Right With our signature danishes in a variety of flavors, using authentic European recipes and methods.

We also offer fresh fruit scones, muffins, coffee cakes, and sweet breads.

You’ll also want to try our biscotti, assorted butter pound cakes (classic and combination of spices), Parisian macarons, individual desserts and gourmet cookies.

133 Gold Star Blvd.

Worcester, MA 508-852-0746

www.thecrownbakery.com

Serving Worcester for over 50 Years!

Wedding Cake Specialists Best of Worcester 2013!

Foodies of New England

105

Sweet Sensations

Portuguese Poached Eggs S

Written by Alina Eisenhauer Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

(Z [OL ,_LJ\[P]L 7HZ[Y` *OLM HUK 6^ULY VM :^LL[ ZLY]PUN \W JHRLZ HUK J\WJHRLZ K\YPUN [OL KH` HUK JVJR[HPSZ HWWL[PaLYZ KLZZLY[Z PU [OL L]LUPUN OHZ LHYULK (SPUH ,PZLUOH\LY THU` HJJVSHKLZ 0U HKKP[PVU [V ILPUN H Z\JJLZZM\S JOLM HUK LU[YLWYLUL\Y (SPUH OHZ ILLU MLH[\YLK VU [OYLL VM -VVK 5L[^VYRZ TVZ[ WVW\SHY JVTWL[P[PVU :OV^Z" *OVWWLK *\WJHRL >HYZ HUK TVZ[ YLJLU[S` ^PUUPUN [OL WYLTPLY LWPZVKL VM :^LL[ .LUP\Z

ome of you may be wondering why this issueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recipe is not for a dessert, as is usually the case with my column. When I was told that this issue of Foodies would focus on ethnic cuisine, I thought that I would share one of my favorite recipes using my favorite ingredientâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;eggsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;which has roots in many different ethnic cultures.

There are many different names for (and versions of) eggs poached in tomato sauce. Shakshouka is a staple of Tunisian, Libyan, Algerian, Moroccan, and Egyptian cuisines, where it is traditionally served in a pot or pan (called a â&#x20AC;&#x153;tajineâ&#x20AC;?), with bread to soak up the sauce. It is also popular in Israel, where it was Ă&#x201E;YZ[ PU[YVK\JLK I` ;\UPZPHU 1L^Z 0U 0[HS` [OLYL PZ H ZPTPSHY KPZO JHSSLK ¸,NNZ in Purgatoryâ&#x20AC;? which likely came about after shakshouka. The Mexican version known as â&#x20AC;&#x153;Huevos Rancherosâ&#x20AC;? is probably the most well-known in the United States and is served with Tortillas. No matter where it originated, it is an incredibly delicious, easy to make and satisfying recipe. ;OPZ YLJPWL PZ T` ]LYZPVU VM [OL 0ZYHLSP IYLHRMHZ[ RUV^U HZ ZOHRZOV\RH [V ^OPJO 0 OH]L NP]LU H 7VY[\N\LZL [^PZ[ Ingredients: 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil VPDOO \HOORZ RQLRQ FKRSSHG FORYHV JDUOLF FUXVKHG FXS FRRNHG SRWDWR DSSUR[ PHGLXP Ăş GLFHG

(SPUHÂťZ J\Z[VT JHRLZ OH]L LHYULK OLY H JLSLIYP[` MVSSV^PUN HZ ^LSS HZ HU HWWLHYHUJL VU )YH]V ;=ÂťZ OP[ ZOV^ ;OL 9LHS /V\ZL^P]LZ VM

1/2 cup crumbled linguiça or chorizo

5L^ @VYR *P[`

8 eggs

FXS VZHHW UHG SHSSHU Ä&#x2122;Ăş GLFHG R] FDQ ZKROH SHHOHG 6DQ 0DU]DQR WRPDWRHV XQGUDLQHG 1/2 cup water .RVKHU VDOW WR WDVWH FXS VKUHGGHG 3LFR *RXGD RU &KHGGDU 7EVS FKRSSHG ĂąDW OHDI SDUVOH\

106

Foodies of New England

DIRECTIONS 1. Heat oil in a 12â&#x20AC;? skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, for about 5 minutes.

Add garlic, chorizo, peppers, and potatoes, and cook, stirring frequently, until garlic is soft, about 5 more minutes.

2. Put tomatoes and their liquid into a medium bowl and crush with your hands. Add crushed tomatoes and their liquid to skillet along with 1/2 cup water, reduce heat to medium, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, about 15 minutes. Season sauce with salt.

3. Crack eggs over sauce so that eggs are evenly distributed across sauceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface. Cover skillet and cook until yolks are just set, about 5 minutes.

Using a spoon, baste the whites of the eggs with tomato mixture, being careful not to disturb the yolk.

Sprinkle with cheese and parsley.

Serve with toasted, crusty bread for dipping.

7PJV VY 8\LPQV KV 7PJV PZ H ZLTP ZVM[ 7VY[\N\LZL JOLLZL [OH[ PZ ZPTPSHY [V .V\KH 7PJV JHU IL MV\UK PU ZWLJPHS[` THYRL[Z VY VUSPUL

Foodies of New England

107

Brew Review

Written by Matt Webster Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

4H[[ >LIZ[LY PZ H JYHM[ ILLY LU[O\ZPHZ[ LK\JH[VY L]LU[

Smoke-Flavored & Barrel-Aged Brews Ah, the Classic Rauchbierâ&#x20AC;Śoriginating in the quaint town of Bambergâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; population slightly over 70,000â&#x20AC;&#x201D;located in the Franconia region of Germany, the producers of the most well-known rauchbier in the world reign supreme.

Simply translated as â&#x20AC;&#x153;smoke [YH\JO] beer [IPLY],â&#x20AC;? their recipes have been perMLJ[LK ]PH [OL HUJPLU[ HY[ VM KY`PUN THS[Z RPSUPUN V]LY ^VVK Ă&#x201E;YLZ )LLJO ^VVK serves as the element of choice for such a laborious task and the smoke from [OL Ă&#x201E;YL WYV]PKLZ [OL THQVY Ă&#x2026;H]VY LSLTLU[ [OH[ KLĂ&#x201E;ULZ [OL Z[`SL ;OL YLZ\S[ PZ H ILLY ZV HZZLY[P]L¡SPRL ZPWWPUN VU H YVHYPUN JHTWĂ&#x201E;YL¡[OH[ L]LU .LYTHUZ Ă&#x201E;UK P[ [V IL X\P[L IPaHYYL /V^L]LY PU [OL [YHKP[PVU VM L[OUPJ L_JLSSLUJL HU elegance and fascination remain with this unusually delicious and truly genuine (HLJO[) libation. Best served at 50 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 55 degrees F. :V ^OH[ PZ ZTVRL Ă&#x2026;H]VYLK HUK ^VVK HNLK )LLY& ;OPZ JH[LNVY` VM ILLY HZ KLĂ&#x201E;ULK I` [OL )LLY 1\KNL *LY[PĂ&#x201E;JH[PVU 7YVNYHT )1*7 PUJS\KLZ JSHZZPJ Rauchbier, other smoked beer, and wood-aged beer. The color spectrum for each of these respective styles ranges from medium amber to dark brown, HUK PZ JSHZZPĂ&#x201E;LK I` [OL IHZL ILLY [OH[ PZ HNLK PU ^VVK 7VW\SHY ^VVK HNLK styles include Stout, Porter, Scotch Ale, Weissbier and Bockbier. Aromas will ]HY` MYVT LHJO YLZWLJ[P]L Z[`SL I\[ HYL WYLKVTPUH[LS` PKLU[PĂ&#x201E;LK I` H ISLUK of smokiness and charred oak. Variations in aroma and mouthfeel can be found in those beers aged in bourbon, scotch, brandy, whiskey, or fresh wood barrels. The alcohol content for each respective style ranges from 4.8% 20+% ABV, with additional alcohol introduced to the base beer during the barrel-aging process.

WYP]H[L KPUULY JVUZ\S[HU[ JLSLIYP[`

Major Beer Style: Lager Major Style Category: Smoked Flavored & Wood-Aged Beer Major Sub Style Category: Classic Rauchbier

]PKLV ZOV^ OVZ[ HUK HIV]L HSS

Our Choice: Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Marzen â&#x20AC;&#x201C; www.schlenkerla.de

WYV\KS` WHZZPVUH[L HIV\[

Why did we choose this beer? The Classic Rauchbier is a beer that brings food to life. Paired with bold meats such as pork loin, braised ham, or barbeque ribs there is no match. Or as Garret Oliver so elegantly expounds in ;OL )YL^THZ[LYÂťZ ;HISL: â&#x20AC;&#x153;With Mexican food itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a revelation, deftly enhancing everythingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;burritos, puerco en pipian, duck in mole negro sauce.â&#x20AC;?

Better yet, sample it during your next JHTWPUN [YPW ^P[O H ^VVK Ă&#x201E;YLK Z[LHR

NVLY ISVNNLY YLZ[H\YHU[ HK]PZLY

HSS [OPUNZ ILLY

>OLYL JHU `V\ Ă&#x201E;UK P[ PU H 6-pack?

Mass Liquors, Austin Liquors, Julioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Liquors, Marlborough Wine & Spirits, Wegmans >OLYL JHU `V\ Ă&#x201E;UK P[ PU [OL bottle*: Armsby Abbey, The Horseshoe Pub ***Note: This beer may not always be available at the above locations at all times.

108

Foodies of New England

Foodies of New England

109

Whiskey Under Loch & Key

Written by Ryan Maloney Photography by Scott Erb, Donna Dufault and Ryan Maloney

9`HU 4HSVUL` OHZ V]LY [^LU[` Ã&#x201E;]L `LHYZ L_WLYPLUJL PU [OL ZWPYP[Z PUK\Z[Y` /L PZ [OL MV\UKLY VM ;OL 3VJO 2 L ` :VJPL[` HUK [OL JYLH[VY VM ^^^ SVJOHUKRL` JVT H MVY\T IHZLK ^OPZR L ` ^LIZP[L 9`HU ^HZ Q\Z[ PUK\J[LK PU[V [OL 2LLWLY VM [OL 8\HPJO :VJPL[` PU :JV[SHUK VUL VM ^OPZR`»Z OPNOLZ[ OVUVYZ /L JHU HSZV IL OLHYK VU >*95 (4 VU OPZ YHKPV ZOV^ ¸0[»Z ;OL 3PX\VY ;HSRPUN¹ /V^L]LY 9`HU PZ TVZ[ YLJVNUPaLK HZ [OL V^ULY VM 1\SPV»Z 3PX\VYZ PU >LZ[IVYV\NO 4( ^OLYL HTVUNZ[ V[OLY HJJVSHKLZ OL OHZ ILLU [OYLL [PTLZ H^HYKLK ¸9L[HPSLY VM [OL @LHY¹

110

Foodies of New England

Oui, Oui Whisk(e)y

I

f you’re into Whisk(e)y or just starting to

dip your toe (I prefer tongue, but whatever floats your boat) into the category, you’re probably familiar with the names of the major players.

You have Scotch, Bourbon, Irish, and Canadian, but Whisk(e)y is such a worldwide category that there are players from all over the globe!

Some countries of origin might sound familiar, like Japan who has been making a splash for quite awhile, but whisk(e)y is made in many more far reaching locations—Taiwan, India, Australia, and New Zealand all make some great whiskies.

Foodies of New England

111

6UL WSHJL [OH[ JYLH[LZ ZVTL Ă&#x201E;UL whiskies is more known for another product they produceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;sour grape juice (I believe it is called â&#x20AC;&#x153;wineâ&#x20AC;?)â&#x20AC;&#x201D;and you may have guessed from the title of the article that country is France. I recently had the pleasure of travelling to France, more precisely to the area known as Brittany, to visit Distillerie Warenghem where they make Armorik Single Malt Whisky.

Now before you start thinking that this distillery is just another upstart jumping on the bandwagon deciding to make whisky, keep in mind that Warenghem has been distilling for over 83 years! In 1987 the distillery purchased two Charentais-type stills and started making a blended whisky, but they wanted to follow their brethren in traditional whisky production. You see, Brittany (or Breton) is considered as one of the six Celtic nations, which include Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Cornwall and the Isle of Man. As a matter of fact, if you awoke in the morning after a couple of drams, which I did, looking around you may mistake your surroundings for Scotland. So, in 1998, the distillery created Armorik, the

112

Foodies of New England

Ă&#x201E;YZ[ )YL[VU ZPUNSL THS[ ^OPZR` There are two expressions of Armorikâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Classic and Double Maturedâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; which are readily available to the U.S. market. I should point out that that both of these whiskies are 92 proof (46% abv) and are Un-Chill Filtered (UFC).

As Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve described in earlier articles, chill Ă&#x201E;S[YH[PVU PZ ^OLU ^OPZR L ` [LTWLYH[\YL is lowered to almost freezing and run [OV\NO H Ă&#x201E;UL Ă&#x201E;S[LY ZPUJL [OL MH[[` HJPKZ congealed at such a cold temperature they were left behind and the whisk(e) y was crystal clear. However, most experts agree that the whisk(e)y was not HZ Ă&#x2026;H]VYM\S" ZV UV^ THU` ^OPZR L ` makers skip this step, and hence signify this with the UCF designation.

Armorik Classic, is aged in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry barrels giving the liquid a warm golden color reminiscent of Amontillado sherry. The smells off this YLSH[P]LS` `V\UN ^OPZR` HYL Ă&#x2026;VYHS HUK citrus with a good hint of raw honey TP_LK ^P[O H SPNO[ ]HUPSSH ;OL M\SS Ă&#x2026;H]VY on the tongue is robust with a nuttiness of spice followed by honey, wood and JP[Y\Z 6U [OL Ă&#x201E;UPZO `V\ ^PSS Ă&#x201E;UK P[ SVUN and lasting with some spice, woodiness

and grain. A great choice if you are looking for a reasonably-priced whisky that might have your friends guessing which region of Scotland produced it (wink).

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I took the bottle out of my pocket, raised a toast to this brave man, poured some on his ground and drank the rest.â&#x20AC;?

Next is the Armorik Double Maturation, which to me embodies the spirit of what the distillery is branding â&#x20AC;&#x153;Breton Single Malt Whiskyâ&#x20AC;?. The whisky is Ă&#x201E;YZ[ TH[\YLK MVY Ă&#x201E;]L `LHYZ PU )YLU[VU Oak barrels harvested from the local forest of Armorik. Then the whisky is transferred into ex-oloroso sherry butts (large 133 gallon casks) and allowed to age and additional two years. The new Brittany oak barrels certainly put their mark on the color of this whisky, which gives off a coppery-almost-reddish hue. The nose has fragrances of fresh apple, a little citrus, and an underlying note of sea salt caramel. The

taste of the whisky is more intense than the UVZL I\[ ZSPNO[S` SLZZ YLÄULK ;OLYL PZ ZLHZVULK ^VVK TVYWOPUN [V H NYHPU` THS[` ÅH]VY ;OL ÄUPZO PZ YLSH[P]LS` SVUN ^P[O Z\I[SL hints of heather honey and ending in a light ZLH ZWYH` ( ÄUL V]LYHSS ^OPZR` [OH[ ZLWHrates itself from the rabble, but in a good way!

Now, normally this is where the article would end and I would say my goodbyes, but my stay in France was not over and I am compelled to mention my next stop. I was fortunate to be able to manage a visit to the American Cemetery and the site of the D-Day Allied Invasion, Omaha Beach in Normandy.

It was a truly moving experience which will remain with me for the rest of my life. As I walked among the gravestones at the cemetery, I came across an unknown soldier whose cross read “Here rests in honored glory a comrade in arms known but to God.” Here was a man who gave his life and not even his name would ever be remembered.

It was cold that day and I had my hands in my coat pockets fumbling with a barrel sample from the night before. I took the sample bottle out of my pocket raised a toast to this brave man, poured some out on his ground and drank the rest. So, the next time you’re sharing a dram with friends, please remember these men who gave their all and raise a toast to the freedom they ensured.

Foodies of New England

113

Spring Scallops & Shrimp Nests Sea Scallops (enough to feed you and your guests) Shrimp (enough to feed you and your guests) Oil of choice Table spoon of curry power Teaspoon of curry Teaspoon of garlic power 1/2 cup sweet and sour sauce 1/2 cup sweet chili sauce 1/4 cup of honey Fresh basil- chopped 2 limes- Juiced 1/4 teaspoon soy sauce Radicchio or endive leaves Pre cut carrot slaw Chives- chopped Wooden Skewer Sticks

DIRECTIONS

1. Pan sear the scallops and shrimp in oil, with a teaspoon of curry and teaspoon of garlic power until golden brown on both sides and cooked completely.

2. In a sauce pan: combine table spoon of curry, sweet and sour sauce, sweet chili sauce, honey, soy sauce, juice of two limes, chopped basil.

Simmer on a med heat and stir till it creates a nice thick sauce. Remove from heat, but keep warm.

3. Next, build your nests using the leaf of radicchio or endive leaves. Place a small pile of the carrot slaw in the base of each nest. Skewer the scallops and add the shrimp on top, generously drizzle each with sauce.

-VY [OL ÄUHS [V\JO ZWYPURSL ^P[O [OL chives.

Serve this spicy nest right away so it stays nice and warm. Enjoy! +VUH )V\YNLY` -VVK :[`SPUN ;OH[»Z ( >YHW +LZPNU *VTWHU`

Foodies of New England

115

Wines of Distinction

Brachetto: A Lively Summer Sweetie!

Ok, right out of the gate, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clear up the pronunciation: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s BRA-KET-TOW, not BRA-SHET-TOW.

Written by Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

2UV^U PU YLZ[H\YHU[ JPYJSLZ HZ ;OL >PUL .\` +VTLUPJ PZ MVJ\ZLK VU MVVK HUK ^PUL LK\JH[PVU +VTLUPJ»Z LU[O\ZPHZT HUK WHZZPVU MVY MVVK HUK ^PUL WYVWLSSLK OPT PU[V H SVJHS ;= ^PUL LK\JH[PVU ZLYPLZ ;OL >PUL .\` PU ^OPJO OL [VVR ]PL^LYZ VU H [V\Y VM *HSPMVYUPH HUK 0[HS`»Z ^PUL YLNPVUZ HUK OPZ[VYPJ KLZ[PUH[PVUZ 0U HKKP[PVU [V ILPUN [OL LKP[VY HUK W\ISPZOLY VM -VVKPLZ VM 5L^ ,UNSHUK THNHaPUL +VT PZ [OL OVZ[ VM -VVKPLZ VM 5L^ ,UNSHUK H K`UHTPJ HUK LK\JH[PVUHS ;= ZOV^ ;OL ZOV^ MLH[\YLZ 5L^ ,UNSHUK»Z ILZ[ H^HYK ^PUUPUN JOLMZ HUK [OLPY ZPNUH[\YL YLJPWLZ

116

Foodies of New England

Onwardâ&#x20AC;¦ this bright and breezy sparkler hailing from northwest Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Piedmont region has been keeping wine-drinkers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; novice and expert alike â&#x20AC;&#x201D; happy for eons. Indeed, the Enrico Rovero Brachetto offers the novice wine drinker an unusual combination of attributes that are most often mutually exclusive of one another: sweetness and crispness. The initial taste is very fruity, offering bright red cherry and strawberry notes with subtle tar, clove, and orchid nuances, followed by a clean, bubbly effervescence, and a very fresh, JYPZW Ã&#x201E;UPZO [V JVTWSL[L [OL L_WLYPLUJL Most folks who are new to the wine world really appreciate this uncommon pair of characteristics because it offers versatility; that is, the wine is perfect without food because of its sweetness, but is also a marvelous companion to many dishes â&#x20AC;&#x201D; particularly KLZZLY[Z MLH[\YPUN Ã&#x2026;HR` WHZtry shells and soft cheese or J\Z[HYK Ã&#x201E;SSPUNZ · ILJH\ZL VM its clean and bracing acidity. )YHJOL[[V PZ HSZV [LYYPÃ&#x201E;J ^P[O chocolate (milk or dark) and nearly any fresh fruit, both of which are abundantly available in Piedmont.

Brachetto is a red dessert wine, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also lightly ZWHYRSPUN 4VYL ZWLJPÃ&#x201E;JHSS` P[ is what the Italians call â&#x20AC;&#x153;FrizaHU[L¹ ¸Ã&#x201E;aa`¹ THRPUN P[ L_tremely versatile in its use.

Taste characteristics are deliciously unusual for a red wine â&#x20AC;&#x201D; sweet, sparkling, cherry, strawberry, even blackberry, HUK Ã&#x2026;VYHS UV[LZ 4VZ[ VM [OL time, these attributes are con-

tradictory and therefore not all found in one wine, but Brachetto weaves them all together in an extremely concerted, harmonious fashion (as only the Italians can do!)

(U HKKLK ILULÄ[ [V [OL ,UYPJV 9V]LYV Brachetto is that it is organically grown.

Vineyard owner Enrico Rovero and his VLUVSVNPZ[ HKK UV Z\SÄ[LZ HUK PTWSLment only the most stringent organic farming methods in the production of the Brachetto. Delicate and temperamental by nature, the Brachetto grape is easily bruised, damaged, or split if not handled properly throughout the cultivation process, so farmers at Enrico Rovero pick the grappole (or “bunches”) very carefully by hand, without the use of mechanized assistance.

6US` UH[\YHSS` VJJ\YYPUN Z\SÄ[LZ HYL present in the wine, and none are added to the juice for the purpose of preserving the longevity of the wine. Also, no pesticides or preservatives are utilized in its creation, so the Rovero Winery must monitor the vines often and with great attention. To that end, in fact, the vineyard plants rosebushes at the ends of each row of vines. Since roses are of the same genus as these particular vines, any disease or “bad” bacteria ^PSS ÄYZ[ H[[HJR [OL YVZL I\ZOLZ SLH]ing the wine maker time to react before the malady works its way into the vines, and, ultimately, the Brachetto grapes.

Originally thought to be from the French “Brachet” varietal indigenous to Provence, the Brachetto is grown mostly in the Acqui Terme village of Piedmont, just southeast of Asti, where many famous wines like Barbera, Barbaresco, Barolo, and Moscato, are crafted. It is said, in fact, that the Moscato d’Asti is the white version of the Brachetto, being similar in its sweetness, effervescent style, and low alcohol level — just about 5.5%.

JVU[PU\LK VU WHNL

Foodies of New England

117

5 Secrets to Gluten Free Success 7UDYHO ZLWK VQDFNV $VN TXHVWLRQV 'R ZHHNO\ PHDO SODQQLQJ (DW ZKROH SODQW EDVHG IRRGV %H JUDWHIXO ,SSLU (SSHYK .S\[LU -YLL +P]H PZ H *LY[PÄLK /VSPZ[PJ /LHS[O Coach trained at the Institute for Integrative Nutrition in NYC. She teaches people who are gluten free the tools for skipping right past the overwhelm and frustration of “What CAN I eat?” so that they can enthusiastically embrace the foods they CAN eat!

Email support@glutenfreediva.com to inquire about private and group coaching programs.

www.glutenfreediva.com

Advertise with Foodies of New England 508-479-1171 118

Foodies of New England

Compared to other, more mainstream wines, there aren’t too many good Brachettos readily available in most wine shops. ;OL 9VZH 9LNHSL MYVT *HZ[LSSV )HUÄ PZ H good product, but it’s not organic; and, if an organic Brachetto is available, why not? Of course, all else should be equal, meaning the organic version should boast the typical rose-petal, cherry, and bright strawberry qualities for which Brachetto is known; its acidity must be in balance; HUK [OL ÄUPZO PKLHSS` ZOV\SK IL IYPNO[ HUK fruity. When all of these oenological stars are aligned, then we’re of the opinion that the organic Brachetto should be the discriminating wine drinker’s choice. Such is the case with this masterpiece from Enrico Rovero.

For you foodies, try this with Italy’s sweet Gianduia chocolate, which has a marvelous hazelnut paste and originates in nearby Torino. Or, visit your favorite bakery to WPJR \W ZVTL JYPZW` YPJV[[H ÄSSLK JHUUVSP or sfogliatelle (SSS-FOLE-YA-TELL-AY), a decadent, shell-shaped stuffed Italian WHZ[Y` ^P[O T\S[PWSL SH`LYZ VM ÄUL WHZ[Y` YLsembling small, thin leaves (called “sfogliatelle” in Italian).

The Enrico Rovero is truly a beautifullycrafted Brachetto, showing all the brilliance and style of the Brachetto varietal, combined with the organic winemaking prowess of the Rovero Winery. Lively, subtly-sweet, fruit-generous, aromatic, clean, crisp, bright and delicate, it is a symphony of complementary elements, all packaged in one neat, elegant and pleasing style.

Foodies of New England gives Enrico Rovero Brachetto 91 points: “A bright and lively sweetie!”

Imported by Global Wines, Inc., of Worcester, Massachusetts (www.Global>PULZ0UJ JVT `V\ JHU ÄUK P[ H[ 1\SPV»Z Liquors in Westborough, Massachusetts, Luke’s Liquors on Cape Cod, and Bradley’s Wines in Boston. Ask for it at state liquors in Maine and New Hampshire, and at your favorite wine shop in Connecticut and Rhode Island.

FNE.

Liberating Libations

Forbidden

Frozen Peach Written by Adam Gerhart Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

(KHT .LYOHY[ OHZ ILLU IHY[LUKPUN ZPUJL OL ^HZ .YV^PUN \W PU \WZ[H[L 5L^ @VYR HSVUN [OL /\KZVU 9P]LY OL ^VYRLK OPZ ^H` \W MYVT ^HZOPUN KPZOLZ PU [OL YLZ-

0[»Z [OH[ [PTL VM `LHY HNHPU! [OL Z\U PZ ZOPUPUN ZUV^ PZ TLS[PUN [OL ÅV^LYZ are blooming, and the trees are budding. As warm spring turns to hot summer, I tend to lean towards fresh fruit and cold drinks. Nothing compliments the sunshine like fresh fruit blended with ice and vodka, of course!

The theme for this edition is ethnic food, so I decided to feature a drink with exotic and native fruits and spirits. I chose fresh peaches grown right here in New England, but native to northwest China. Then I chose Dr. Smoothie 100% Crushed Forbidden Fruit which contains white and pink guava native to Mexico and South America and also passion fruit which is native to Brazil, Argentina, and the Caribbean. Dr. Smoothie 100% Crushed is an all-natural, no-preservative blend of fruits that makes this an easy product to add to any cocktail. The combination of these ethnic ingredients blended with ice and Skyy Georgia Peach Vodka will not only cool you off but will make any spring or summer day more than pleasurable. Skyy Vodka by Campari America has the fewest impurities among leading vodkas with zero carbs. Quality vodka at a great price, and good for bathing suit season, too!

This drink will not only have you thinking that you have the best-set table in New England but it will bring some culture to your palette as well.

Enjoy Responsibly!

[H\YHU[ PUK\Z[Y` HUK ^VYRLK PU HSS WVZP[PVUZ H YLZ[H\YHU[ OHZ [V VMMLY (KHT MLLSZ [OH[ SLHYUPUN I` KVPUN PZ [OL ILZ[ [YHPUPUN TL[OVK HUK JVUZPKLYZ P[ H ]LY` IPN YLHZVU MVY OPZ Z\JJLZZ 4HRPUN H N\LZ[»Z L_WLYPLUJL TLTVYHISL HUK NP]PUN [OLT H X\HSP[` KYPUR PZ ^OLYL (KHT»Z WHZZPVU SPLZ (KHT ILSPL]LZ [OH[ PM OL HUK [OL WLVWSL HYV\UK OPT HYL OH]PUN M\U P[»Z UV[ ^VYR /L HSZV MLLSZ WHZZPVUH[L HIV\[ [\YUPUN ZVTLVUL»Z KH` HYV\UK I` W\[[PUN L_HJ[S` ^OH[ [OL` ^HU[ PU MYVU[ VM [OLT HUK JYLH[PUN [OH[ ZWLJPHS KYPUR [OH[ THRLZ [OLT ZH` ¸>V^ ¹

120

Foodies of New England

The Forbidden Frozen Peach 2oz Skyy Georgia Peach 3/4 oz Dr Smoothie 100% Crushed Forbidden Fruit 2 slices of fresh New England peaches Splash of cranberry juice for color Add ice and blend 3 slices of peach for garnish

Foodies of New England

121

122

Foodies of New England

Hot Pot Bliss!

1HZ (QJODQG·V ODWHVW DQG JUHDWHVW (DVWHUQ LQÁXHQFH LV &KDXQ 6KDEX $ IDEXORXV QHZ FRQFHSW EURXJKW WR \RX E\ WKH RZQHUV RI :RUFHVWHU·V %DED 6XVKL &KDXQ 6KDEX VSHFLDOL]HV LQ &KLQHVH DQG -DSDQHVH +RW 3RW DXWKHQWLFLW\ WKDW·V PRUH WKDQ \HDUV ROG &KDXQ 6KDEX·V FUHDWRUV KDYH WLUHOHVVO\ YLVLWHG WKH RULJLQ RI +RW 3RW FXLVLQH WR EULQJ \RX WKH PRVW GHOLFLRXV DQG KHDOWK\ UHFLSHV SUHSDUHG ULJKW DW \RXU WDEOH LQ D PRVW HQWHUWDLQLQJ IDVKLRQ &KDXQ 6KDEX DOVR VSHFLDOL]HV LQ WUDGLWLRQDO DXWKHQWLF 6]HFKXDQ IRRG -RLQ XV DW &KDXQ 6KDEX IRU DQ H[SHULHQFH WKDW ZLOO EULQJ \RX EDFN IRU PRUH &KDXQ 6KDEX« True Hot Pot Greatness.

Chuan Shabu Restaurant 3DUN $YHQXH :RUFHVWHU 0$

6XQGD\ SP SP 0RQGD\ 7KXUVGD\ DP SP )ULGD\ DP DP 6DWXUGD\ SP DP