Foodies of New England Winter 2017 Edition

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Hard Ciders Crafted in New England!

Best of...

Culinary Kids Training Students for the Kitchen Seasonal Epicurean Delights Pork Loin with Boiled Cider Sauce Butternut Squash Ravioli Crust Top Apple Pie Forest Harvest Farm Farming Mushrooms in Petersham, MA

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Winter 2017 Contributors Publisher: Mercury Media & Entertainment, LLC Managing Editor: Domenic Mercurio Contributing Editors: Julie Grady Thomas Jodie Lynn Boduch Director of Social Media: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Writers and Contributors: Ellen Allard, Adam Gerhart, Lina Bifano, Elaine Pusateri Cowan, Jodie Lynn Boduch, Ryan Maloney, David Kmetz, Peggy Bridges, Brad Schwarzenbach, Jeff Cutler, Sarah Connell, Denny Corriveau, Julie Grady Thomas, Renee Bolivar, Matt Jones, Joan Arnold, Briana Palma, Lisa Johnson, Di Marie Mariani, Dale and Darcy Cahill Professional Photography: Scott Erb & Donna Dufault Erb Photography Art Director: Rick Bridges Richard Bridges Design Website: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Account Manager: Domenic Mercurio Foodies of New England Magazine Box 380 Sturbridge MA 01566 domenic@mercurymediallc.com scott@erbphoto.com jodie@muchadomarketing.com rick@richardbridgesdesign.com All content Š2016, Mercury Media Entertainment All Rights Reserved Printed in USA Foodies of New England assumes no financial responsibility for errors in advertisements. No portion of Foodies of New England, advertising or editorial, may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written permission of the publisher.

The information contained in this publication is believed to be accurate, however the publisher does not guarantee its accuracy.

The opinions expressed by others within this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher or its employees.

By accepting advertising neither Foodies of New England nor Mercury Media Entertainment is endorsing or guaranteeing the quality of service or products within those advertisements. Every effort is made to ensure that the advertisements come from reputable companies, however we cannot take responsibility for how an advertiser deals with the public.

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Winter 2017

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Contents Features

14

Hard Ciders

Crafted Right Here in New England!

34

14

Foraging for a Green Mountain Feast Dining at The Farmhouse Tap & Grill

38

Westborough Korean Restaurant Authentic, Korean Cuisine

48

The Beehive Café Small, Intimate and Appealing

56

America’s Love Affair with Wheat Too Much of a Good Thing?

38

64

Forest Harvest Farm

Masterful, Mushroom Farming in Petersham, MA

78

Best in Culinary Kids

Educating a New Generation of Chefs

106

Gluten Free Fall Harvest Quick, Easy & Delicious

64

Cover: Cider from Artifact Cider Project in Springfield, MA

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78

Departments

44

History of...

52

70

Umami

52

Gluten Free Cold Seasonal Soup

60

Gardens by Renee Garlic

70

Wild Cheff

Pork Loin with Boiled Cider Sauce

92

Healthy at Home Butternut Squash Ravioli

100

Sweet Sensations Oh My, Apple Pie!

104

Brew Review Boneshaker Brown

110

Whiskey-Under Loch & Key

92

Scotch for Under $50

114

Wines of Distinction 29 & Oak

118

Liberating Libations Drink Cider, Save the World

110 Winter 2017

7

Experience New England Dining at its Best

N

estled on 600 acres of New England countryside, Salem Cross Inn offers seasonal menus with traditional fare alongside what today’s dining public is looking for. Incorporating heirloom vegetables and herbs grown in our own gardens, and locally raised beef, everything is prepared fresh daily.

Experience the ever popular Fireplace Feasts where prime rib is roasted using an antique roasting jack in the fieldstone fireplace in this 18th century farmhouse.

Visit our website to learn more about our Drovers Roasts, Farmers’ Dinners, Christmas Memories Dinner Theater, New England weddings and other family events.

Photo: Heidi Finn

260 West Main Street • West Brookfield, MA 01585 508.867.2345 • www.salemcrossinn.com

Letter

from the

Editor

Let Foodies Take the Chill Off True, when seasons start to change, we begrudgingly adapt our clothing, winterize our homes and break out the bulky sweaters. However, as for foodies who call New England home, there is palpable excitement and anticipation with that comes with the change of every season.

In this issue of Foodies of New England, we heat up our readers with the tastiest (and toastiest) hard ciders from around the northeast. For starters, one of our editors – Londoner Julie Grady Thomas - brings us up to Portland, Maine, to the Urban Farm Fermentory. Here, kombucha, cider, mead, and gruit (a beer-style cider using few or no hops) are routinely served out of the tasting room.

Briana Palma has rich flavor on tap at Poverty Lane Orchards in Lebanon, New Hampshire, where Farnum Hill Ciders uses the word “cider” to mean an alcoholic beverage fermented from particular apples, just as “wine” is fermented from particular grapes. Farnum Hill believes in getting the best out of what grows on their property. Intrigued? Take a ride

The luckiest people in the

and taste for yourself.

world live in New England.

Taste why our own Brad Schwarzenbach is over-the-moon about these unique and inter-

Apart from its continuously changing weather pattern, New England is also home to the most diverse food offerings in the world.

Character-building is nothing new to the boys at Citizen Cider in Burlington, Vermont. esting brews each one born out of the co-founders’ barn and basement. Stories like this are what New England grit and determination are all about!

Dry, complex and refreshing. Those are the words that describe the efforts of two best friends – Farmer Jake and Scientist Soham – as they launched the Artifact Cider Project in Springfield, Massachusetts. Sarah Connell explores Buzzworthy, Wild Thing, New World, and Colrain, just a few examples in creativity and diversity brought to life by Artifact Cider Project.

Autumn in New England is certainly marked by the smells and tastes of nutmeg, cinnamon and cider, and Hogan’s Cider Mill in Burlington, Connecticut, has been delivering these inspirations in the same classic method since 1912. Jeff Cutler takes us through this - one of the oldest – cider mills in New England.

But the changing of the seasons in New England isn’t just about the exciting onset of interesting food choices. Now, more than ever, culinary education is of the highest interest to people of all ages. Increasingly, finer dining establishments are offering private culinary lessons to their patrons, online cooking courses are offered at every turn, and students of all ages are delving into the art of food.

In this issue featuring Culinary Kids, Lisa Johnson takes us out to scenic Cape Cod, Massachusetts, where Café Riverview trains students for the kitchen.

Part of Riverview School - an independent coed boarding/day school providing a caring community for students with complex language, learning and cognitive challenges – Café Riverview is the hands-on setting where students 11 to 22 learn about restaurant operations and how to prepare food and serve the public. Café Riverview is a very popular destination in Sandwich, and the students thrive on being a vital part of its success.

As we meander northwest, we find another program that launches kids into the world of culinary careers. Team Chef is an annual competition among students at Tantasqua Regional Technical High School in historic Sturbridge. For years, the program has pitted 8 teams of culinary students against each other in an all-out battle to impress the tastcontinued on page 12

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Foodies of New England

Variety of ciders from Urban Farm Fermentory

Winter 2017

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ing and voting public. Each team - led by a professional chef from the local area who provides guidance and direction to the kids – has to incorporate the same pre-determined central ingredient into their savory entrée and dessert creation. This year, the central ingredient was bacon, and you won’t believe the creativity!

Onward east to the Heart of the Commonwealth - Worcester - for the Worcester’s Best Chef (WBC) competition. The largest culinary competition in the entire region, WBC attracts chefs of magnitude who truly love to compete. Coming into its 10th anniversary, WBC is all about pro chefs showing off, with an added element of altruism. Yes, this event has raised thousands for high school culinary students and homeless veterans over the years, and it even gives the up-and-comers the chance to compete against rival culinary schools in front of 1,200 hungry and discerning foodies for cash and bragging rights!

Beyond those great tales of would-be chefs, there are many more truly fascinating must-reads inside for your perusal. Dale and Darcy Cahill take us up to Vermont to the Farmhouse Tap & Grill. Then, we venture way down into Bristol, Rhode Island, where Diane Marini reviews Beehive Café. After, Joan Arnold dishes delicious insight into Korean Food that’ll thrill both your eyes and palate!

Education is key for foodies, so pay attention to Adrienne Walkowiak’s and Francine Shaw’s in-depth supplement on Preventing Norovirus. And, if you’re among the thousands who suffer from Celiac disease, you won’t want to skip Peggy Bridges’ look at the impact of gluten on our bodies.

A-foodie-farming-we-will-go!

If you like mushrooms and

you’re a foodie farm fanatic like most of us, you’ll love what’s in store – Forest Harvest Farm in Petersham, Massachusetts. At this quaint, quintessential New England farm, Leo Mondragon and wife Marie Erie grow a variety of fungi, and the pair elate at visits from bon-a-fide foodies in search of their mushroom medley.

Of course, there’s our regular line-up of foodies favs – the feature stories you’ve come to know and love, including Home Grown, Wild Cheff (yes, 2 ‘f’s), The History Of…, Gluten Free Diva, Healthy at Home, Sweet Sensations, Brew Review, Wines of Distinction, Whiskey… Under Loch & Key, and Liberating Libations.

What a great season this is for foodies, and we’re so very excited to bring you so many unique and interesting offerings for which New England is so renowned!

Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Editor/Publisher

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Foodies of New England

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Reviving New England’s Lost Art with Artifact Cider Project

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Written by Sarah Connell Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Soham Bhatt’s denim overall apron and worn gray t-shirt would put him right at home in a brewery or on a farm, but his polished leather shoes give him away.

Bhatt has just arrived at Artifact Cider Project in Springfield, Massachusetts from his day job—scientist—in Cambridge at a biotech company where he works with individuals whom he deems some of the most intelligent scientists in the world.

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Foodies of New England

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“The scientific method is in their blood,” he explains. He gleans inspiration from his colleagues who dedicate their lives to asking questions and seeking out answers. Then, he drives two hours west to a cidery where science and art unite.

“What we do here is grounded in both rigor and craft. Each cider starts with a question, and the answer is what ends up in the bottle,” Bhatt says.

With three harvests and several ciders on their roster, Bhatt and his partner, Jake Mazar, have grown more inquisitive than ever.

The project began when Mazar, now a farmer, was diagnosed with celiac disease. Bhatt had already experimented at home with the fermentation of bread and yogurt, so cider felt like a natural progression. The pair found their first “aha-cider,” the West County Baldwin, so dry and complex that their curiosity about the beverage’s heritage was immediately piqued. They grew fascinated with the art of cider making, once a prevalent industry in New England, and set out to locate some of the region’s oldest apple cultivars.

Artifact found a home with Springfield’s Gasoline Alley Founda-

“The cider tells you where it wants to go. You can try to tell it, but the cider always wins.” tion, an incubator dedicated to quenching the city’s thirst for new businesses and innovative thinking. The foundation focuses on entrepreneurship training, socially responsible business practices, job creation, and giving forgotten urban spaces new meaning through economic and community development—a fitting home for Artifact, which in its inception aimed to revive an abandoned New England art.

Bhatt explains that he wanted to brew a cider that was accessible but dry, and most importantly, he intended to create something that remained respectful to New England’s native fruit.

Artifact soon found its “soul mate” in the form of Pine Hill Orchards of Colrain, Massachusetts.

Bhatt was surprised to find that although the cider making process more closely resembled winemaking, the beverage was being marketed like beer. “Beer is brewed from a recipe, while cider is a translation of the orchard.” Bhatt describes cider as something of a domineering dance partner. “The cider tells you where it wants to go. You can try to tell it, but the cider always wins,” he says.

Mazar and Bhatt hoped to pour their cider at establishments that would be willing to provide knowledgeable feedback and educate consumers about their product. Early on, they set their sights high on the likes of such craft beer juggernauts as Lord Hobo,

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Foodies of New England

Co-owners- Soham Bhatt and Jake Mazar and Christopher Camillucci (assistant Cider Maker)

Row 34 and Deep Ellum, all of which now regularly feature Artifact ciders on their draught lists.

Just a five-minute walk from the cidery, past a vertical garden and a stunning display of street art, Bhatt is proud to show off his quickly dwindling inventory. He points out the palate of kegs slated for Row 34, indicating just how far the Artifact team has come in three short years. When asked about the future of the company, he grows serious only to assert, “We will not outgrow our orchards; we will grow with our orchards. This is a passion project, not a get-rich-quick venture.”

Artifact Cider Project 270 Albany Street Springfield, MA 01105 508.446.2935 www.artifactcider.com

Cider’s New World Artifact’s aim is to revive, reinvent, and reintroduce American craft cider.

Why not start with New World Cider, a blend of Massachusetts’ Baldwin and Northern Spy apples.

• Pours cloudy in a shade of pale flaxen • Emits aromas of musty barnyard and overripe fruit • Maintains persistent carbonation, effervescent and bright • Sweet Meyer Lemons and winter apples – clean, fresh, off-dry, and pleasantly puckering • Perfect for a fall wedding toast in lieu of Champagne

Winter 2017

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18

Foodies of New England

The Distinctive Taste of Locally-Sourced

Cider

Hogans Cider Mill in Burlington, CT

W

Written by Jeff Cutler Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

With the advent of a booming craft beer market in New England, distinctive cider styles often get overlooked. At Hogans Cider Mill in Burlington, Connecticut, sometimes as many as 26 or more varieties of cider are served over the course of a season.

According to Theresa Clifford Dunlop, who owns and runs the Mill with her husband Chet (he’s also a PGA pro), the cider mill has been around since 1912 and had half a century of farm history before that. When the pair took over the land in the early 1990s, it wasn’t with an aim toward introducing fun and tasty ciders.

In fact, they were creating a golf school.

Winter 2017

19

Fortunately for cider lovers across the region, the two pursuits were compatible.

Theresa says the impetus to try milling cider was spurred by de-

from within 10 miles of the farm, and the cider is allowed to ferment naturally. This process means the taste of a particular cider is difficult to replicate, though some flavors shine through.

mand, with apple-picking and cider-pressing season dovetailing

Theresa says there are three favorite flavors: The first is a classic

nicely into our local golf season. Hard cider brought customers to

hard cider from an early pressing, and it’s tart and dry. Then there’s

the mill and an abundant local crop of apples provided them with

December Frost from a later pressing when there is more sugar in

both variety and a source for great flavors.

the apples. It’s still dry but sweeter. The third has native honey in

“We were excited about doing hard cider. We saw the market and

it—about five gallons of honey to 250 gallons of cider. The honey

the potential,” says Theresa. After talking with another mill in Old

doesn’t so make it sweeter as it softens the cider and makes it

Mystic, they learned what was involved in getting the hard cider up

smoother.

and running. “We started out with our toes in the water and now we have more than 26 varieties.”

The farm isn’t so large that they keep that many flavors ready all

With such an historic and relevant beverage being processed here, you might think the process gets tedious. The Dunlops say it’s anything but that.

the time, though. The couple changes things up regularly except

“Even if you were to make cider every day and use the same

for a few best-selling favorites, and different tastes are developed

apples every day, the secret of a good cider is to use as many variet-

depending on the types of apples harvested across the region.

ies as possible for complex and interesting flavors. Apples are going

“We only do small batches,” Theresa says. “When one batch

to taste different from day to day,” says Theresa.

is sold, we do something completely different.” Pressings usually

The Dunlops truly enjoy their work. Theresa says there’s no place

take place between Labor Day and Christmas, and it’s all bottled

she’d rather be. “This is New England as it was 100 years ago. It’s a

by hand.

thrill for me. It’s a privilege.”

Theresa contends that cider is a historic product and the state agreed; they listed Hogans Cider Mill as a historic site in 2015. As she explains, cider has been a staple in New England since the 1600s, and average consumption back then totaled about 50 gallons per person, per year. These days, the amount people drink might be less, but the process is very similar. The apples used are

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Foodies of New England

Hogan’s Cider Mill 522 Spielman Highway Burlington, CT 06013 860.675.7320 www.hoganscidermill.com

Theresa Clifford Dunlop and daughter, Margaret

“Different tastes are developed depending on the types of apples harvested across the region.�

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Truly

Wild Cider with Urban Farm Fermentory

I

Written by Julie Grady Thomas Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

If chicken soup is for the soul, then proper cider—real cider, cider that has somehow been magically absent from the American palate, cider that ferments wild with little help from anything else— takes the soul to higher levels of nirvana. Lucky for us, Urban Farm Fermentory thinks so, too.

The folks at UFF found their mission was so distinct, they needed to invent the word “fermentory” in order to fully encapsulate it.

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Foodies of New England

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Foodies of New England

Part winery, part brewery, part apoth-

Take the Arlo Cidah, for example. A nod

The rules are there are no rules, so

ecary, UFF focuses on the fermentation

to Maine’s fall season, this is UFF’s single

make like the man, the mead and the ci-

process across the board rather than solely

varietal Golden Delicious cider. Named af-

der, and blaze your own trail to Urban Farm

on varietals across the vineyard. So, instead

ter Eli’s son, this is the sweetest beverage

Fermentory for some truly wild New

of pinot and merlot, think mead, kombucha

they’ve got.

England cider.

and of course, wild fermented cider.

And yes, it’s spelled c-i-d-a-h. The spell-

UFF founder Eli Cayer hails from Mada-

ing is meant to reflect the locality of the na-

waska, Maine, the northernmost town in

tive yeast strains. Other cider makers may

New England. Growing up there, in the val-

pitch foreign yeasts, but UFF products with

ley between Canada and the US, Cayer may

the “cidah” label are fermented with 100%

just be as “wild” as his products.

wild Maine yeast.

For college, Cayer ventured south to Boston during the 1990s where he discovered a passion for graffiti-style art as well as the prevalent 90s rave culture. Realizing that college in the city wasn’t for him, he moved back to Maine, but this time settled in Portland.

“My background?” he ponders. “I didn’t have a plan. I don’t live like that. My philosophy is simple: I do things that I like the best that I possibly can. So, I moved back to

“After about two months, the result is a bright, nearly sugarless cider that’s sharp and crisp.”

where I’m from and I started my own courier company.”

But why rave culture? “It was inclusive.

UFF’s farmhouse-style cidah follows in

Friendly. And beat driven.” Much like the

the footsteps of pre-Prohibition Era farm-

man himself. Passionate, open, and incredi-

ers. After the fall harvest, farmers would

bly warm, Cayer says his enthusiasm for fer-

load their pressed apples into barrels and let

mentation and his consideration for food as

them ferment over the cold winter months,

medicine was more or less a happy accident.

allowing for the wild yeasts to feast on the

It began to evolve after he rebranded his

apples’ sugars until the cider became tart

courier company: bustling bees coming to

and crisp—no sulfites (they kill natural, wild

and going from their hive. With that image in

yeast), just time and a bit of patience.

mind, he used honey sticks as a friendly—

It’s well worth it. After about two months,

and hugely successful—promotional tool.

the result is a bright, nearly sugarless cider

After nearly buying out every supplier in the

that’s sharp and crisp.

region, Cayer took the advice of a local beekeeper and started keeping his own bees.

“People are starting to get it now. It’s not a sugar-bomb. What I do is earthy and

But it’s never simple—now, with too much

dry, not apple juice with booze,” Cayer ex-

honey, Cayer had to find different ways to

plained. “When [cider] is dryer and crisp, it

use it. That’s when he discovered mead.

pairs better with food.”

“For me, the fact that mead was medici-

But is there a specific way to drink ci-

nal was intriguing. But it really is, or was, not

der? “Yes, and no. Cider goes well with light

marketable,” he says. “I started a meadery,

meats and cheeses. But, my whole thing is

and it did not work out—due to bringing in

do it however you enjoy it,” he says. “When

the wrong partners—but that’s all I needed

I was young, I was a big dunker, you know,

to get into fermentation.”

dunking cookies in milk and stuff like that.

His failure is now our success, because

But, I used to dunk my PB&J sandwiches.

the range of products at UFF is incredibly

I liked it. It tasted good, and I enjoyed the

unique while still heeding to some classic

experience. What I’m saying is make it your

New England flavors.

own, make it your own experience.”

Urban Farm Fermentory 200 Anderson Street Portland, ME 04101 207.773.8331 www.fermentory.com

Cider and Mead and Kombucha—Oh My! Check out the rest of the Urban Farm Fermentory offerings. Some are seasonal and/or available at the UFF Tasting Room.

Dry Cidah: Made with wild fermented Maine desert fruit, this provides the base for UFF’s entire cidah line.

Baby Jimmy Oak Barrel Aged Hard Cidah: This will keep you warm on a cold New England night. Aged in American oak barrels, this unfiltered cider has a distinctive flavor range and complexity.

Hopped Cidah Cascade Conditioned Hard Cidah: This canned cider is dry conditioned with cascade hops and packs in some decent citrus notes.

IPA drinkers, check this one out.

Amalgam Kombucha & Cidah: A blend of the Dry Cidah and UFF’s own kombucha, this is a one-of-a-kind tasting experience.

Toasted Oak Kombucha: A tea of toasted oak chips is added post-fermentation, bringing all the vanilla, funky oak notes your palate desires.

Chaga Chai Kombucha: Wild foraged Maine Chaga mushrooms are combined with chai spices. This autumnal seasonal beverage is only available in Maine locations.

Blueberry Kombucha: Wild Downeast blueberries boost flavor, aesthetic, and antioxidants. When mixing at home, be liberal.

Ginger Kombucha: Slicing and juicing fresh ginger makes this mix rather potent.

A best seller, it’s known for its effervescence and mixes great in cocktails.

Mead: Utilizing the wild in-house apple yeast, this simple combination of wild yeast, local honey, water, and time makes a gentle mead, sweet with honey and a crisp apple finish.

Winter 2017

25

CiTIZEN

Leads a Cider Revolution Written by Bradley Schwarzenbach Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

W

We are fortunate in New England, and the country as a whole, to have a thriving craft beer culture. Breweries, large and small, across the republic have, in the last few decades alone, introduced thirsty American palates to an ever-increasing range of hard beverages.

Trends in this space come and go: wheat beers gave way to India Pale Ales and, now, if you’ve looked at the craft shelves of your local package store, you’ll have noticed that we are in the middle of a hard cider boom.

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Foodies of New England

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“Cider is a cool way to experience traditional hops flavors against a new background…It’s a lot of fun to convert people who are only really familiar with beer.”

Typically apple-based, these libations have long been a barroom

Regionally-sourced: According to Holmes, being based in New

staple in Europe and are now the latest trend in American brewing.

England is absolutely vital to their product and identity. “We just

Ready to get a taste of the next big thing? Point your empty

grow great apples around here,” he said. And, to ensure the high

glasses and mugs toward Citizen Cider in downtown Burlington,

level of quality and consistency—quality control is vital when work-

Vermont.

ing with plants for human consumption—Citizen Cider partnered

Founded in 2010, this craft cidery is on the bleeding edge of the American hard cider movement. Bryan Holmes, along with friends

with Happy Valley Orchard in nearby Middlebury, Vermont to do all the apple pressing.

Kris Nelson and Justin Heilenbach, cofounded Citizen Cider after

“We always use 100 percent real apple juice, never a concen-

much research, which included tasting a multitude of European

trate,” Holmes said, at least four times, each time with an under-

ciders. “We were amazed by the diversity of flavors they offered,”

standable amount of pride. “We also never use apple middlemen.

Holmes said, “but we also wondered why ciders hadn’t yet really

We locally source everything.”

gained traction in the US.” It would seem that these three business partners of varied yet complementary backgrounds—Holmes a research chemist, Nelson a wine salesman, and Heilenbach a farmer—had excellent foresight six years ago, just as the cider market was about to explode.

And whether they’ve ridden the wave or caused it, Holmes said

Even production, packaging and presentation all happen in downtown Burlington. Plus, Citizen Cider has a lively tasting room with ten ciders on tap, along with a variety of local beers.

Next up, fruit-forward: Unified Press has no added sugar. The result is a drinkable, fruity cider that doesn’t cloy with overwhelming sweetness.

Citizen’s goal was very simple: create a fun, fruit-forward, regionally-

Finally, is it fun? Even at 5.2 percent, Unified Press has range; it

sourced cider. Those efforts produced its flagship offering, Unified

pairs well with pork, soft cheeses, and spicy foods. “But you should

Press, but how does it stack up?

really try it with lobster,” Holmes advised.

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Foodies of New England

In spite of meeting its original goal, it would be easy to slip and assume that Vermont’s well-established beer brewing community might overwhelm Citizen Cider and the burgeoning cider movement.

But, Holmes was quick to point out that it’s not like that at all.

“We’ve collaborated with the breweries in the past. That’s a big part of the Vermont identity and we take it seriously,” Holmes explained. “Cider is a cool way to experience traditional hops flavors against a new background…It’s a lot of fun to convert people who are only really familiar with beer.”

When asked about what the future held for Citizen Cider, Holmes focused on one thing: growth.

Currently Citizen Cider is distributed in most of New England (apologies to Maine and New Hampshire), New York and the Carolinas, but expansion is on the horizon.

Like good collaborators, Holmes gave a lot of the credit for Citizen’s current and future success to the customers. “People who come into the taproom teach us a lot. We make so many good connections and we pull a lot of ideas from the beer and wine worlds,” he said. “There are so many flavors yet to explore. There are so many production methods to explore. I’m really happy to see it all come together.”

Citizen Cider 316 Pine Street Burlington, VT 05401 802.448.3278 www.citizencider.com

Co-owner Bryan Holmes

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Foodies of New England

Artistry Through

Apples

S

Written by Briana Palma Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Some winemakers get a kick out of signing their bottles, leaving a personal mark on the product they’ve crafted.

Steve Wood and Louisa Spencer are not those people.

Owners of Poverty Lane Orchards in Lebanon, New Hampshire, the two have been apple growers for decades. Wood, 61, started working on the farm at 11 years old and eventually bought it in 1984. In the early 1990s, they began to turn their fruit into high-quality hard cider. And while much praise has come their way over the years, they’re happy to deflect it.

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31

“We think if anybody should sign our bottles, it should be our apple trees, not us,” Wood insists, “because what we make is real orchard-based cider.”

Indeed, the two craft Farnum Hill Ciders the old-fashioned way, which, much like winemaking, is based on the land and the fruit. In the fall, they harvest and press the apples, put the juice into tanks and barrels, and let it ferment slowly. The whole process takes about eight months and when it comes time to bottle, Wood and Spencer rely on their senses to create the perfect blend from different batches.

“We can’t have a recipe,” Wood says, explaining that since apple trees don’t produce a consistent crop year after year, they make their cider to taste, aiming for a certain flavor profile that can be achieved with different varieties of apples. As Wood described,

“What we want people to do is lift the glass to their mouth and say, Oh my.”

Farnum Hill Ciders are very dry with bright acidity, lots of fruity esters, and a little bit of astringency in the background. The only ingredients they add to the apples are yeast,

Compelled to stop and find out more,

sulfur dioxide as an antioxidant, and occa-

Wood discovered these were cider apples,

sionally a small amount of dosage (natural

distinct from the edible varieties, like McIn-

sugar-based syrup) to bring out the flavors

tosh and Cortland, that he had been grow-

of the fruit.

ing on his farm. Next time he and Spencer

“We’re looking for the apples to be the artist,” Wood says.

He and Spencer first learned about cider making by chance while visiting the United

traveled across the pond, he went right back to “cider land” where he absorbed as much knowledge as he could from the growers and cider makers.

Kingdom in the early 1980s. “We were tak-

Back in New Hampshire, he and Spencer

ing a random drive to London from the north

slowly shifted their operation towards cider

of Wales, and we started passing through

making, and at first, they focused on rec-

these teeny, extremely weird orchards,”

reating the flavors of the English beverages

Wood recalls. “There were a lot of them,

that had inspired them. Eventually, though,

but I had never seen orchards like this

they realized that their cider had to be true

before.”

to their land.

32

Foodies of New England

“We were getting flavors that we’d never encountered in England and we’d never encountered in France, and we thought, ‘Why are we trying to imitate something?’” Wood says. “‘Why don’t we just try to make something that’s delicious by our rights and is reflective of what we do in the fields and the fields themselves?’”

And although a sip of Farnum Hill Cider does provide a sense of terroir just as fine wines do, Wood and Spencer don’t want the complexities of their beverages to prevent anyone from enjoying them, plain and simple.

“We don’t want our cider to shout at people,” Wood insists. “We just want it to be pleasurable. What we want people to do is lift the glass to their mouth and say, ‘Oh my,’ and the next thing they say is ‘Oh my goodness, my glass is empty.’”

Poverty Lane Orchards 98 Poverty Lane Lebanon, NH 03766 603.448.1511 www.povertylaneorchards.com

Owners Steve Wood and Louisa Spencer

Winter 2017

33

Foraging for a Green Mountain Feast with The Farmhouse Tap & Grill Written and photographed

by Dale and Darcy Cahill

F

resh ingredients are requirements for all serious chefs, but at The Farmhouse Tap & Grill in Burlington, Vermont, Chef Kevin Sprouse is taking it one step farther—out the door and into the woods.

Green is Good Every spring the Earth’s symphony of rebirth breathes new life into our tired souls, which is what last year’s invite to the annual Resurrection Feast said, setting the tone for the entire meal.

34

Foodies of New England

The menu springs into being partly from what the 30-plus local farms that supply The Farmhouse have ready, but also from the centerpiece ingredients that grow wild in the woods of Vermont.

This foraging feast is a natural extension of The Farmhouse’s guiding food philosophy to buy and eat locally. It’s also an indication of how committed the entire team is to knowing what edibles exist just outside the backdoor, and how to—sustainably and responsibly—gather and prepare them.

They will be heading out to gather edibles for their Ressurection Feast again this May. Check their website for the exact date of this year’s spring feast.

“Every spring the Earth’s symphony of rebirth breathes new life into our tired souls.”

Planning & Preparation Each year Sprouse waits to determine what he’ll serve for the feast until after he and his cohorts forage for the ingredients themselves. “We usually wait until about two days before the planned feast before we go gathering our ingredients,” he explained.

They gather in Bakersfield, on the property of a local forager who agreed a few years ago to lead the kitchen crew on a search for safe wild edibles.

Last year that meant heading out on a Monday with boots, knives, shovels, bags and mushroom baskets. They dug ramps (wild leeks), picked fiddleheads, cut pheasant tail mushrooms from trees, and gathered wild purple violets, stinging nettles, wild ginger, Japanese knotweed and dandelion greens.

Something that always dominates each dish is dramatic color. The soup, the salads, the sides— they all radiate green, freshness and a taste that Sprouse calls “veggie-primal.”

“Ideas for preparing and presenting the ingredients come to us while we are out in the woods or in the car driving back to the restaurant,” he revealed.

This year he wants his food to have the visual impact of a spring garden.

In the Kitchen While pickled ramps, fiddleheads and dandelion green salad are all mainstays, Sprouse has learned continued on page 36

Winter 2017

35

to work with what the forest gives him in the run up to the feast. And once they’re back in kitchen with their bounty, the creative work begins.

Stinging nettle soup is standard fare for foragers, but including granola, ramps and wild flowers in the recipe is less common.

“The granola is a Vermont touch,” Sprouse added.

His pheasant back mushroom terrine with pickled knotweed, dill crème fraîche, ramp purée and hazelnuts pleasantly surprised diners last spring. He plans on repeating it this year, with possible variations.

It’s clear that Sprouse takes pride in the fact that his servers can explain to their customers just where their meal originated, even if putting together the feast in such a short amount of time can be stressful. Still, it’s a challenge he and his kitchen crew look forward to each year—it’s all part of the spring buzz.

The Farmhouse Tap & Grill is located at 160 Bank St, Burlington, VT, 05401 802.859.0888; www.farmhousetg.com.

36

Foodies of New England

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38

Foodies of New England

I

sat across from Jungwon and Filipe, her Brazilian foodie boyfriend, sipping barley tea while Jungwon, speaking Korean, ordered dinner at the Westborough Korean Restaurant in Central Massachusetts.

Shortly, the banchan (many

small side dishes) arrived, then a platter of bossam (crispy pork belly and cabbage), and a bowl

of japchae (noodles). The spice of the food, smell of food cooking, and comfortable clatter of dishes warmed us on a chilly and rainy night.

According to Jungwon, who was born and raised in Seoul, the restaurant serves some of the most “authentic” Korean food around. As she manipulated her chopsticks to bundle pork belly, kimchi, and garlic into a neat bite wrapped in cabbage leaf, she reminisced about the bossam and noodle restaurants her father took her to as a child and the taste of barley tea prepared by her grandmother. To judge by the number of Korean families and Asian customers filling the tables, the comfort of this restaurant is known and appreciated.

For those less familiar with Korean food, the restaurant provides a low-key, hearty, and delicious introduction. At its core, Korean food is peasant food distinguished by deep savory tastes. The basics – seafood, vegetables, meat - become “Korean” through layers of flavor introduced by soy sauce, bean paste, chili paste, and garlic. The banchan and kimchi – the traditional dish of pickled and fermented vegetables like radishes, mustard greens, and cucumber - lend the meal remarkable variety. Plain steamed rice provides balance. A Korean table commonly includes at least a half dozen banchan and several main dishes. The result, rich in umami, is a meal that is full of contrast, interest, and variety with spiciness, heat, savory depth, and a hint of sweetness.

Young Nam Lee and Chung San Ku, the chef/owners of the Westborough Korean Restaurant, grew up during the difficult postwar years in a divided and impoverished Korea. After immigrating to the United States, they met while working in a Korean restaurant. Mutual respect for the other’s cooking and a vision of creating a restaurant reminiscent of Korea led them into business together ten years ago.

Over Korean melon and barley tea, Young and Chung talked with me, speaking through an interpreter. Young is an animated and expressive woman who very much wants me to understand the feeling of her restaurant. Chung nodded his head in agreement as she talked. I want people to feel at home here, she tells me, nothing fancy. Everybody comes. Babies come.

Opening her arms she breaks into English. “It’s ok. It’s ok. Babies crying are music. My grandmother said babies in restaurants are lucky!”

continued on page 40

Winter 2017

39

“The spice of the food, smell of food cooking, and comfortable clatter of dishes warmed us on a chilly and rainy night.”

Young was born in the 1950’s in the southeastern coastal city of Pusan. There, she learned to cook over a wood fire beside her grandmother. Mostly she cooked fish, using whatever her uncles brought back in the early morning before taking their day’s catch to the local market.

She learned to

make many varieties of banchan such as cabbage and radish kimchi and spinach and bean sprouts dishes. Young learned the smell and touch of good fish and says she “understands fish.” Now, she travels to the Boston piers to choose seafood for the restaurant. Back in Westborough she translates the lessons of her grandmother into dishes, including spicy fish stews in an anchovy-based broth and the kimchi she makes weekly.

Chung was born in the inland city of Daegu. When he immigrated he found work in a Korean BBQ restaurant in New York City. Now he specializes in the restaurant’s meat dishes, including bulgogi or, for the adventurous, Healthy Goat Stew.

Enjoying a meal at an authentic family restaurant is a fine way to explore Korean food, and the Westborough Korean Restaurant is an excellent place to begin. Many dishes, like Korean hot pot and bibimbap, are full of flavors and ingredients that are quite accessible and very good. Try some Korean pancakes, dumplings, or spicy rice cakes while studying the menu. Enjoy the tastes, appreciate the umami, and savor the simple feeling of being welcome.

Westborough Korean Restaurant 7 East Main Street Westborough, MA 01581 508.366.8898 www.facebook.com/ Westborough-Korean-Restaurant

40

Foodies of New England

Owners and chefs Young Nam Lee and Chung San Ku

Winter 2017

41

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Foodies of New England

at Tantasqua The Cornerstone CafĂŠ is the student run restaurant at Tantasqua Regional High School located at 319 Brookfield Road, Fiskdale, MA Open: Wednesday, Thursday and Friday when school is in session, 10:30 am - 12:30 pm Our menu selections change weekly and can be found on the school website at www.tantasqua.org Choose Cornerstone CafĂŠ from the left side menu We can also be reached by calling 508-347-9301 ext. 0915 or ext. 5161

Join us for lunch and let us treat your taste buds!

“History of...�

Written by Joan Arnold Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Joan is inspired by the people who love to create and enjoy good food.

Trained in law, she is a writer by avocation interested in the stories of people and the food they make.

Joan explores the craftsmanship, history and emerging cultures that make up the New England food scene.

44

Foodies of New England

Umami What do Parmesan cheese, asparagus, Worcestershire sauce, mushrooms, Japanese dashi broth, Auguste Escoffier’s veal stock and kimchi have in common? They are all are noted for their umami. “Umami” is a Japanese word meaning “deliciousness”. But what exactly is that taste and where does it come from?

Finding out was the goal of a Kikunae Ikeda, a Japanese scientist who in 1908 discovered the chemistry behind umami. Ikeda was intrigued by the flavor of dashi, a broth made with konbu. He knew it was delicious but believed it could not be described by the four recognized tastes of sweet, sour, salty and bitter.

Investigating konbu (a kelp) in his laboratory, the chemist isolated the principal taste substance – glutamate - and the distinctive taste he was seeking.1 Thankfully, Ikeda named his discovery “umami”, a choice revealing the foodie behind the scientist. Later research revealed how glutamate together with other compounds present in many foods enhance taste by their chemical interactions. For example chemical changes initiated by aging (cheese), drying, curing, fermentation (soy sauce), or heat (roasting meat) bring out the savory deliciousness known as umami.

By the close of the 20th century, scientists discovered humans have taste receptors unique to umami. For the first time since the ancient Greek philosopher Democritus declared the discovery of “bitter” the number of basic tastes changed.

Umami -

described by Wikipedia as a “savory taste” – became recognized as a separate basic taste together with sweet, sour, salty and bitter.

Ingredients rich in umami have been used throughout history. In ancient Rome, garum - a fermented fish sauce – was used as a popular condiment. . Medieval Byzantine and Arab cooks used a fermented barley sauce and Asian cultures used soy and fish sauce, all in order to bring a deep taste of deliciousness to food. Centuries before Ikeda sat down to his bowl of dashi, Zen Buddhist monks in Japan used konbu to kick up their vegetarian diets. continued on page 46

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45

Auguste Escoffier, the great French chef and restaurateur of the 19th century, was known for his exceptional sauces.

Escoffier used veal bones for his stock, first roasting them to produce his brown veal stock, and this stock was the basis for many of his sauces. 19th century foodies wealthy enough to afford an Escoffier meal were enamored with his food and the flavors that the accepted vocabulary of taste didn’t describe. In fact, the mystery was umami. “When Escoffier created veal stock, he was concentrating umami.

When Japanese made their dashi, they were doing the same thing.”2 It is interesting to note that Escoffier published Le Guide Culinaire with his recipe for fond brun de veau, or brown veal stock, in 1903, just five years before the Japanese chemistry professor made his discovery of umami.

Although Escoffier didn’t know the science behind his cooking he did know the value of his veal stock. “Indeed, stock is everything in cooking. ing can be done.” 3

Without it, noth-

That may be another way of say-

ing that umami is everything in cooking.

Without it,

nothing can be done.

“Umami and Palatability”; Yamaguchi, Shizuko and Ninomiya, Kumiko; The American Society for Nutritional Sciences (2000)

1

“Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter…and Umami”; Krulwich, Robert; November 5, 2007; NPR 24 Hour Program Stream

2

3

AZQuotes.com

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46

Foodies of New England

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Battered squash sandwich with fried chickpeas

48

Foodies of New England

All in Jamez Day’s Work at the Beehive Café Written by Di Marie Mariani Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

T

he Beehive Café is buzzing with foodies inside, outside and seated bayside on the roof overlooking dazzling Bristol Harbor.

Ten Franklin Street in Bristol, Rhode Island is the hub for handmade, fresh, local food: The Beehive Café. More like a restaurant with a

café feel, Beehive is “…very small, intimate and appealing - with serious food, serious drinks and serious work,” describes Jamez Day, executive chef.

Day’s title is one he doesn’t relish. “I’m on the line, too, and the line is where the magic happens,” he insists. On the line, chefs do repetitive work like chopping, dicing, garnishing, and assembling dishes to be expedited to the dining room. Day has never had a formal education in culinary arts. Yet with his natural creative abilities added to his Southern foodie roots, Day has molded himself into a health-conscious food artisan, and has been part of the Beehive team for over a decade.

At sixteen, Virginia-native Day was working in a Fredericksburg vegetarian restaurant as a dishwasher. There, the aromas that wafted through the kitchen took hold of Day’s curiosity. “I smelled all these different flavors and I thought, ‘This food is amazing!’ I didn’t know anything about Middle Eastern food, but those aromas are what started me on learning more about vegetarian food as well as different ethnic foods.” After, Day added a Southern flair to his creations that came from the recipes and cooking styles passed down from his mother and grandmother. continued on page 50

Winter 2017

49

A True Bistro

Day has called Rhode Island home for 18 years and has appeared on national television with Rachel Ray (per her request). Now, he caters to the local foodies (as well as those traveling from far and wide) and their demands for unique and healthy dishes.

“It started small 10 years ago, but has really snowballed. For such a small space, we’re still keeping true to our original roots – serving local, organic food,” Day proudly boasts.

“The Flax Bread is the most popular bread and the most popular dish is the Butternut Squash Sandwich.”

The Café doesn’t cook food in fryolators or over an open flame; instead, all of Day’s offerings are hot-griddled or baked.

For

Chef Day and the Beehive, maintaining a healthy aspect to their offerings is the priority. For patrons, however, the priority is the fresh-made bread! Day tells Foodies of New

For the freshest, most local, and most organic dining experience you can have, there’s only one place:

England how the popularity of The Beehive all comes down to the bread. “The Flax Bread is the most popular bread and the

The Twisted Fork.

most popular dish is the Butternut Squash

509 Stafford Street • Cherry Valley, MA 01611 • 508-892-5437 www.unclejaystwistedfork.com Reservations are recommended

Baked Eggs (at any hour of the day), the fla-

Sandwich.” But foodies also can’t resist vorful Fried Chickpeas side, and the dinner favorite, Pesto Grilled Chicken.

Owner Jen Cavallaro’s passion is baking.

“We started as a coffee shop, making pastries by hand. But, after a short time, we re-

Advertise with Foodies of New England 508-479-1171 50

Foodies of New England

alized that our guests were also interested in the savory side of food, so we grew into offering full breakfast, lunch, dinner, and even beer and wine,” she laments. Sourcing from local farms, Cavallaro is a big advocate of offering “…small-batch, comfortable, recognizable dishes that discerning foodies are just too busy to make at home.”

Cavallaro also opened The Beehive Pan-

side dinner in the Café, Beehive will

try at 87 Gooding Avenue in Bristol. A com-

have your senses swarming with foodie

bination espresso bar, bread bakery, pastry

fascination.

shop and prepared foods counter, The Pan-

So find your way to The Beehive Café.

try offers an evolving menu of soups, fresh

According to the buzz, it’s well-worth the

and seasonal salads, cooked-meat dishes,

trip! For more information including hours of

vegetarian and vegan selections, gluten-free

operation, visit their website.

choices, and, of course, their famous baked goods.

Whether you’re looking to grab a fresh and healthy meal to take home from The Pantry, or prefer a relaxing harbor-

The Beehive Café 10 Franklin Street Bristol, RI 02809 401.396.9994 www.thebeehivecafe.com

Cinnamon Rolls

Jay Marquez and Aly Rego helping out behind the counter at the Beehive Pantry

Jennifer Cavallaro

Winter 2017

51

Gluten Free

Cold Seasonal

SOUP

When Da Capo Publishers contacted me about doing a blog review or a social meWritten by Ellen Allard Gluten Free Diva www.glutenfreediva.com Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

dia post about Healing the Vegan Way, a new cookbook by Mark Reinfeld, I happily agreed. Upon receiving the book, I immediately began looking through the recipes and, before long, the book was filled with bright pink sticky notes earmarking the recipes I planned on trying.

Many of the recipes inherently gluten free, and those that aren’t can easily be

Ellen Allard, the Gluten Free Diva,

adapted. With a little bit of gluten-free cooking substitution savvy under your belt, it’s

is an over-the-moon enthusiastically

easy to convert many of the recipes so that they are safe for those needing or choos-

hip and motivational Certified

ing to follow a gluten-free diet.

Holistic Health Coach who helps clients banish the bloat and embrace gluten free lifestyle changes that enable them to fall madly in love with the food that unequivocally loves them back. A graduate

Another outstanding feature of the book is the inclusion of template formulas for creating variations on recipes. For example, if you wanted to make a cold vegetable soup similar to the Raw Carrot Brazil Nut Soup featured here, you would pick ingredients that come from the following components: base, creaminess, vegetable, herb, ethnic spice. By choosing your own set of mix and match ingredients, you can literally create your own recipes.

First time at bat, so to speak, I hit a home run. It was a hot summer night and cold

of the Institute for Integrative

soup sounded like just the ticket. The Raw Carrot Brazil Nut Soup recipe was the

Nutrition, Ellen is a recipe developer,

one that caught my eye.

food writer, food photographer and videographer (www.glutenfreediva. com/blog/.) She passionately promotes optimal health through informed food choices and whole

I was especially intrigued with the idea of making the soup in the blender. Once I gave myself permission to buy fresh-squeezed carrot juice (as opposed to buying the carrots and juicing them myself), I realized how little time it would take to prepare the soup in spite of the long list of ingredients. Sure enough, the end result didn’t disappoint.

The three stars of the recipe—brazil nuts, carrot juice, and avocado—were the

plant-based foods. She loves all

key to lending the soup a creamy texture and sweet taste. A visual showstopper, the

things food and health and is

soup’s bright yellow hue (made by a marriage of carrot juice and turmeric) contrasted

happy to talk to you about the same!

with the crisp, diced red pepper and the delicately chopped green dill. And it is as delicious as it is beautiful.

I wouldn’t limit myself to making this soup only in the summer; because it was so easy to prepare, I wouldn’t hesitate to make it any time of year.

52

Foodies of New England

Winter 2017

53

Raw Carrot Brazil Nut Soup Ingredients: 4 cups fresh carrot juice 1/2 cup Brazil nuts 1/2 cup peeled and pitted avocado 1/4 cup thinly sliced green onion 1 tbsp. peeled and minced fresh ginger 2 tsp. peeled and minced fresh turmeric 2 tsp. seeded and diced jalapeĂąo pepper 1/2 tsp. sea salt (or to taste) 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper Pinch of chipotle chile powder 1 cup fresh or frozen (thawed) corn 1/2 cup seeded and diced red bell pepper 2 tsp. minced fresh Directions: Place 2 cups of carrot juice in a blender. Add the remaining ingredients except the corn, red bell pepper and dill. Blend well.

Add the remaining 2 cups of carrot juice and blend. Transfer to a bowl. Add the corn, red bell pepper and dill. Mix well.

Serve chilled.

54

Foodies of New England

Winter 2017

55

America’s Love Affair with Wheat Too Much of a Good Thing?

Written by Peggy Bridges Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Wheat. It is the foundation of so many of the foods we eat, primarily breads; and bread has been known for centuries as “the staff of life.” So, as a basic necessity of our daily diet, why are an increasing number of people in the US struggling with health issues – like Celiac disease – connected to the consumption of wheat? As a result, the trend to go “gluten-free” has become a means of dealing with some of these health issues.

56

Foodies of New England

But, is wheat inherently bad for some

Common sense tells us almost any time

I prefer to get at the root of the problem.

people, or are we just eating too much of it?

we do something to excess there ends up

If we simply cover up a problem with medi-

There seems to be no conclusive evidence

being a negative consequence. You would

cation, it usually persists and we often

one way or the other, but there are definitely

think that if we’re eating so much of one

end up with side effects from medications

some widely-varied opinions.

thing in our diets it probably doesn’t leave

intended to make us “feel better.” It becomes

much room for the other things we should

a vicious cycle.

As do many people, I love wheat. Until recently, however, I never really thought about

be including in our daily intake.

So how do we figure out what the prob-

just how much wheat I eat. Take a minute to

lem is when things do go wrong with our

think about how much wheat you eat. What

health? There are several choices we can

do you typically choose for breakfast? Cereal, donuts, pastry, cereal bars, waffles, pancakes… all wheat products. Then comes lunch. Do you usually have some sort of sandwich? Most breads – even wraps and

“Wheat is the foundation of so many of the foods we eat, primarily breads.”

tortillas – are wheat-based. In the afternoon,

make. We can go the route of conventional medicine, which often results in a prescribed medication. Or we can seek natural alternatives coupled with dietary changes. In recent years, the trend has been to connect eating habits with ailments. We, as a nation, have

do you like to have a snack (cheese and

Now, I’m not a medical professional, but

very poor eating habits as well as a soar-

crackers, or maybe a few cookies)? Most

I’ve researched this subject extensive be-

ing increase in health problems. Conse-

crackers and cookies are wheat products.

cause of some health issues of my own in

quently, there’s been great deal of interest

For dinner, do you have some sort of bread

the last few years. My curiosity drives me

by medical professionals to explore con-

or rolls? What about entrées like breaded

to want to understand what is causing my

nections between food intake and common

chicken or fish? Again, wheat. Even if you

symptoms, which are primarily manifested

illnesses; one such connection is between

decide to have a pizza for dinner, the crust

in arthritis. My rheumatologist, Dr. Gary Wolf,

inflammation and auto-immune disorders.

is usually made with wheat. Dessert? Just

tells me this is caused by inflammation levels

Inflammation has been on the rise for many

about any cake, pie or pastry is made with

detected in my blood. I don’t believe in tak-

years and has been identified as the root

wheat. Getting the picture? We eat A LOT

ing medication to cover up a problem if I can

cause of many such disorders, according

of wheat.

avoid it, so when something goes wrong

to www.alternet.org. Most opinions are that continued on page 58

Winter 2017

57

inflammation is caused by diet, but the opinions differ when it comes to, “Which foods are the culprits?” Some believe it to be wheat; some say animal products are to blame; some think it’s high fat; and still others say it’s sugar. In this particular discussion, let’s look at wheat.

There are probably as many opinions about whether or not wheat is harmful, and why, as there are doctors and nutritionists.

One popular opinion touting the evils of wheat is offered in the famous “Wheat Belly” book written by Dr. William Davis, Cardiologist. In his book, Dr. Davis explains that he consulted with agricultural geneticists and discovered that we are eating genetically reengineered wheat, “primarily for purposes of increased yield per acre,” and which contains components “never tested for suitability of human consumption” (www.wheatbellyblog.com). He also discusses a test group of patients who avoided wheat products for several months and demonstrated numerous signs of improvement in health, including reduced blood sugar, weight loss of 25-30 pounds, arthritis and asthma relief, reduced acid reflux and irritable bowel syndrome, increased mental clarity, deeper sleep, and more stable mood and emotions.

Harvard Health (www.health.harvard.edu) offers an explanation as to the function of inflammation in our bodies. “Inflammation doesn’t happen on its own. It is the body’s response to a host of modern irritations like smoking, lack of exercise, high-fat and high-calorie meals, and highly processed foods... Inflammation is an essential part of the body’s healing system. Without it, injuries would fester and simple infections

ter in Putnam, Connecticut works with pa-

with wheat being that it contains lectins and

could be deadly. Too much of a good thing,

tients to treat their maladies from a func-

starches that compound gluten’s already

though, is downright dangerous.” The dan-

tional medicine and nutritional standpoint.

strong inflammatory drive. This is fuel for all

ger being that excessive inflammation has

When asked for her opinion regarding her

chronic illness.” Dr. Monette also states that,

been touted as the cause of a long list of

experience with patients and how wheat af-

although to a lesser degree, even eating too

auto-immune disorders including everything

fects their health, she says, “It’s a real prob-

much non-hybridized wheat can lead to

from arthritis to rosacia. So the presence of

lem. Modern wheat contains concentrated

health troubles.

inflammation is essentially the body’s effort

gluten which increases zonulin protein

It would seem that we cannot separate the

to mount some sort of defense; the question

made in the intestine that causes leaky gut,

perils of gluten from wheat, in general. Even

is – against what?

breaking down the normal immune func-

the Arthritis Foundation has made state-

Alison

tion manifesting as inflammation throughout

ments connecting gluten and wheat with in-

Monette of Avena Integrative Medical Cen-

the entire body. There are also other issues

flammation. “Gluten, a protein in wheat, may

Naturopathic

58

physician,

Foodies of New England

Dr.

truth to every viewpoint, but we must make a decision based on what works for each of us, individually.

Personally, I have found that avoiding wheat has helped me recover somewhat from my afflictions, but that may not work for everyone. I do believe that our tendency toward excess and extremes is a large part of the problem. What is the old saying, “All things in moderation?” Perhaps it is a good credo to heed when it comes to good health.

Sources:

also cause a flare up of arthritis symptoms”

In the end it is up to all of us to read, listen,

(www.healthline.com). But, there still seems

weigh information available to us, and draw

to be no conclusive evidence as to whether

our own conclusions. There may be some

Dr. Alison Monette, Naturopathic Physician at Avena Integrative Medical Center, Putnam, Connecticut The Arthritis Foundation www.healthline.com www.alternet.org

the problems are only inherent in the wheat, or caused by excessive consumption of it.

Is a moderate level of consumption of nonGMO wheat a safe option for some people who don’t want or need to cut wheat completely out of their diets?

For years doctors have recommended a healthy diet that includes larger amounts of vegetables, fruits and lean meats. In keeping with this advice, perhaps we could each examine our own intake of wheat products and make a few small changes in our daily routines. If we make conscious choices of foods other than wheat which make us feel much less “full,” we will ultimately end up eating more of the healthier foods such as vegetables and lean meats at mealtimes.

For people who don’t have a chronic illness requiring avoidance of gluten altogether, wheat may not necessarily have to be viewed as “the bad guy.” There is also the option of choosing non-GMO wheat products that could have lower levels of the components that seem to be causing so many health problems.

It is difficult to come to any simple conclusion, since there is no single authority on this or any medical issue. Medicine, by nature, is inherently based on experience and opinion in addition to a large amount of expertise.

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Gardens by Renee

Written by Renee Bolivar Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Renee is an agri-entrepeneur who has turned her passion for growing fruits, veggies and herbs into a successful and “growing” business.

She believes in self reliance and lives by the motto, “Grow Your Own!” Gardens by Renee is committed to growing food, gardens, and people’s knowledge of where our food comes from, one seed at a time. Through her business, Renee teaches foodies how to grow their own food, helping them to design, build, install and manage backyard gardens that focus on a backyard experience for the entire family to enjoy.

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Garlic:

The Most Seductive Plant in Our Edible Gardens

When you look up the word seductive, you’ll find a list of synonyms that may as well be describing the attributes of homegrown garlic: sexy, alluring, tempting, and irresistible, to name a few.

This sultry plant—yes, garlic—has attractive qualities that entice us throughout its growing season, which begins in late fall and lasts through midsummer. That is, if you can hold out.

Garlic adds to any edible landscape and is a staple in most foodie kitchens. Its leafy stalks are one of the first greens to stand erect in our spring gardens, after the snow melts, and they make for a lovely border. I like to plant a row of garlic in front of my growing boxes and raised garden beds. It also has the added benefit of being a known pest deterrent.

Homegrown garlic has a distinctive flavor; once you’ve grown and tasted your own fresh garlic, you’ll never go back to commercially grown again. You won’t have a need to either—garlic is one of those crops that keeps on giving.

It takes a while to grow, up to eight months, and owns its real estate in the garden for the whole time. The good news is, garlic is easy to grow and well worth the time and space.

continued on page 62

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Now is the perfect time to plant this appealing crop, and here’s

• Cure it. Freshly dug garlic needs to be cured. This can be done

how it’s done.

by simply hanging the garlic bulbs or laying them flat on a screen

• Purchase some quality garlic heads. You shouldn’t use the kind

and storing them in a cool, well-ventilated area for 2 to 3 weeks.

found in a grocery store; it’s usually treated with a chemical

• Pick the largest, healthiest heads to use for planting in the fall and

to keep it from sprouting. You can buy garlic for planting from

store the rest in a mesh bag for all your cooking pleasures.

local farms, farmers markets, or online; you can also get it from

Enjoy!

a seed supplier like High Mowing Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange,

For more information on Gardens by Renee, visit www.gardensbyrenee.com.

You can follow Renee on Twitter @gardensbyrenee, Pinterest www.pinterest. com/gardensbyrenee/growyourown, and Facebook www.facebook.com/ gardensbyrenee.

or Burpee.

• Garlic is divided into two types, hardneck and softneck.

Hardneck types develop an edible stalk called a scape. Scapes have become quite the delicacy and give those of us who just can’t wait a little tease of the good things to come. The scapes are pulled weeks before the actual bulbs. Softneck types have a more subtle flavor than hardneck and keep longer (if stored properly, up to a year).

• In mid-October, divide the bulbs into cloves and keep the protec tive papery skin on and plant 1 to 2 inches deep about 4 to 6 inches apart, pointed end up. Garlic prefers a rich, well-drained soil, height, and organic matter. I dig a trench about 4 to 6 inches deep and fill it with compost prior to planting.

• Mulch your garlic row with straw or saltmarsh hay to keep out the weeds and then let the plant do what it does best, grow.

• In early spring remove the mulch and top dress with more compost.

• Keep your garlic free of weeds. Garlic can’t stand the competition.

• Harvest your garlic around mid-July or when about 40% of the leaves have died back by gently lifting the bulbs from the earth.

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Shiitake is this

Shogun’s Shtick Written by Domenic D. Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb, Donna Dufault

L

eo Mondragon knows fungi.

Now, that might not sound like the most ardent compliment a

cultivating shiitake on oak logs under the dark canopy of pine and

food writer could bestow upon a masterful mushroom farmer, but,

hemlock trees. During periods of dry weather, Mondragon mists

believe me, it says it all.

the logs with artesian well water from an elevated irrigation system

This mushroom master not only grows multiple varieties of shiitake, but he also elaborately sets the cultivation stage using only

he developed himself. This is done mainly to prevent dormancy associated with drought.

the 4- to 5-foot-long top sections of locally-harvested, felled New

Situated on mostly hilly and wooded land, Forest Harvest Farm

England oak trees, stacking them in a crisscross pattern, and then

borders on protected conservation land that includes the Harvard

inoculating each one with mycelium culture strains so they become

Forest and the Swift River Reservation. As such, the bio environ-

the fertile source from whence these monstrous mushrooms mature.

ment is very suitable for growing 15 varieties of shiitake, morels,

Mondragon started Forest Harvest Farm in Petersham, Massa-

matsutake, and many other varieties of mushrooms such as Lion’s

chusetts, back in 2005. The agricultural methods he employs at his

Mane and Wine Caps, as well as vegetative types not typically

farm – which is also home to Mondragon and his wife, Marie Erie – is

grown by farmers, including ground nuts, yurine root (lily bulbs),

predominately modeled after the traditional Japanese technique of

and crosnes (Chinese artichokes).

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Yes, we were thinking the very same thing you are; “Farming is

Locally, Forest Harvest’s shiitakes are sold at Boston Public

a lot of work.” In fact, that’s exactly how Mondragon put it, also

Market by Lunenburg, Massachusetts-based Stillman’s Farm.

adding, “Mushroom cultivation requires the same effort and sweat

Occasionally, Forest Harvest shiitake and wild mushrooms can

as any other kind of farming or agriculture.”

also be found at the Copley Square Farmer’s Market in Boston.

Foraging mushrooms is an intricate endeavor. With an already

Wherever you find them – whether in a posh James Beard

short shelf-life, shiitakes demand that farmers like Mondragon pay

Award-winning dining room in Manhattan, at a farmer’s market in

especially close attention to the potentially destructive impact that

Beantown, or right at Forest Harvest Farm itself – you’re sure to be

New England temperature fluctuations and precipitation could have

haunted by the memory of what could possibly be the very best

on this delicate produce. And getting shiitakes picked, cleaned,

tasting, most delicate, sumptuous mushrooms grown west of the

packed, and shipped to restaurants and farmer’s markets all within

Orient by this Shiitake Shogun.

the same day makes Mondragon’s routine even more challenging, and it is a responsibility for which he must remain sharply on-task.

“If I don’t get them into my customers’ hands in the same day, they could decompose by the next day,” he warns.

Mondragon’s venture into mushroom cultivation stemmed from his life-long interest in mushrooming. He recalls his early years in Mexico, riding horseback with his aunt into remote locations on foraging expeditions. Mondragon also delves into the search for edible plants throughout New England as part of Forest Harvest’s expanded business model.

Beyond New England, Mondragon is one of the main purveyors of Blue Hill at Stone Barnes in Pocantico Hills, New York, where executive chef and co-owner Dan Barber has integrated Forest Harvest’s wild and cultivated bounty into a myriad of unique morsels on their tasting menu.

Forest Harvest Farm 206 Barre Road Petersham, MA 01366 978.724.0208 www.forestharvest.com

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Foodies of New England

Leo Mondragon

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Written by Chef Denny Corriveau Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Cider

More Than Just a Drink Cooking with Boiled Cider & Cider Jelly

E

veryone says it, but my absolute favorite time of the year is fall.

Never mind the obviously beautiful landscape. What excites me is being able to bite into a crisp New England apple, and have the opportunity of infusing apple varieties into my cooking. And, cider is a testament to how fruit can transform a dish into something really memorable.

What many people may not be aware of is that cider comes in various forms. Each orchard you visit has its own formula, a secret combination of the types of apples used to create their own cider. But, there are also other, lesser-known byproducts of cider-making that can impart tremendous flavor into your cooking.

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Foodies of New England

Boiled Cider Boiled cider dates back to the late 1600s. Historians have documented that early settlers in New England produced this natural concentrated sweetener, which is like an apple version of molasses and has a very similar appearance, but its aroma is that of concentrated apples.

During Colonial times, boiled cider was a household staple and one of the native sweeteners, much like maple syrup. Used as a sweetener for baking and cooking, it was relatively easy to produce and less expensive than molasses or brown sugar.

Some of the common uses for boiled cider were for adding sweetness to things like cakes, cookies or mincemeat. Settlers also would drizzle some on their winter squash, or use it in their baked beans.

One of my favorite ways to use it is to drizzle some over a free-range pork or wild boar loin, nestled in a bed of sweet onions and veggies, all cooked in a Dutch oven.

I recall my unsuspecting grandson sitting at dinner one evening in my home; I started serving up dinner and asked if he would like some cider sage sauce with his loin. He reluctantly said he wanted to try it first—one taste and I won a fan for life.

Cider Jelly Made from fresh cider then concentrated, cider jelly takes things a step further than boiled cider. When you reduce it to this level, the natural pectin found in apples eventually reaches a stage where it will produce a concentrated jelly.

I would not recommend treating this jelly like a standard apple jelly—don’t put it on your toast—but it does work well as an accompaniment to a cheese board, or melt it down and use it as a glaze over ham, chicken, wild game, and other meats and certain types of fish.

Through the emergence of our foodie adventures, we can surely reconnect with our historic American heritage and experience tasteful memories that are sure to leave a lasting impression on our palates.

See recipe on page 74 Denny Corriveau is Award-Winning Master Game Chef and the Founder of the Free Range Culinary Institute, the only national wild game cooking school in the country. As a trendsetter in the field of wild game culinary arts, and Wild Game Evangelist, Denny has evolved over the past 25+ years as a nationally-noted authority on “best practices” regarding the culinary side of wild game. You can learn more about Denny @ www.wildcheff.com.

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WildCheff’s Pork Loin with Boiled Cider Sauce If you love the taste of apples, you are going to absolutely love the flavor that boiled cider infuses into this recipe.

Ingredients: 2x 2 lbs. Organic pork loins 1 or 2 Large sweet onions, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise, then quartered 1 lb. Organic carrots, peeled and sliced on a 2-inch bias WildCheff Tuscan Blend Seasoning (available at WildCheff.com) WildCheff Lemon Olive Oil WildCheff Sagemary Sea Salt, to taste 6 Cloves garlic Riesling wine 4 oz. Fresh cider 1/4 Cup of boiled cider DIRECTIONS 1. Pre-heat oven to 375°F.

6. Turn off the heat and place the loins lengthwise in the center of the pot.

7. Add the sliced onions, carrots, green beans and garlic cloves on both sides of the loins. Season them with some of the WC Sagemary Salt.

8. Pour at least half a bottle of good Riesling over the veggies. You are looking to have enough liquid to cook the veggies and braise the meat.

9. Pour the cider over the loins, then drizzle the boiled cider over them.

10. Put a lid on the Dutch oven, and put it in the oven. Cook for approximately 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours until internal temperature of loin reaches 140 to145°F. Remove from oven.

Tip: Check the pot a couple of times during oven cooking. If the liquid reduces too much, add more Riesling or some water. Do not let the pot to go dry.

11. On medium heat, heat a large saucepan. Melt a couple table spoons of butter and sprinkle equal amount of organic all-purpose flour.

2. Trim any silver skin from the loins.

12. Whisk for a minute until flour is cooked, and then pour cooking broth from the Dutch oven into the roux. Continue to whisk until cider gravy thickens. Remove from heat.

3. To prepare the loins, place them on a sheet pan and coat them with the WC Lemon Olive Oil, then season them with the desired amount of WC Tuscan Blend.

13. After 10 minutes of resting the loins (this should naturally occur while you are making the gravy), remove them from the pot with tongs and slice into 1- to 2-inch pieces.

4. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons of olive oil.

14. Serve family style: place the cooked veggies onto a platter, and then fan the sliced loin over the veggies. Goes well with mashed potatoes and cider gravy. Bon appetit!

5. One at a time, sear the outside of each loin. Turn it as you go, until it’s browned all over. Remove and repeat with the next loin.

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Foodies of New England

Petit Kitchen Popovers Makes one dozen mini popovers Ingredients: 1 C of organic unbleached flour, leveled 1/2 tsp. of sea salt 1 C of 1% low-fat organic milk 2 large free range eggs 1 T of “real� butter, melted Canola cooking spray 1 tsp. of vegetable oil Recipe calls for a mini popover pan Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2.

Whisk together milk and eggs in a mixing bowl, and set on counter for 30-40 minutes so the mixture comes to room temperature.

3. Spoon one cup of flour into a measuring cup, and then whisk the flour and sea salt together in a bowl.

4.

Gradually add the flour mixture to the egg and milk by whisking it together.

Add melted butter so all ingredients are mixed well.

5. Evenly spray the popover cups with cooking spray, and then brush the cups with the vegetable oil.

6. Place the oiled popover pan into the preheated oven for 5 minutes.

7. Remove warmed pan from oven and fill the cups evenly with the batter, about 1/2 way.

8. Bake at 375 degrees for approximately 40 minutes, until they have risen and are golden brown.

Serve immediately.

Cooking Tip: By spooning flour into the measuring cup, it ensures that you have a lighter amount of flour, which results in perfect popovers.

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Foodies of New England

BEST in CULINARY KIDS

Pork Belly Futures and Present!

Written by David Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Food competitions - from Iron Chef, Chopped, Bobby Flay’s Throwdown, The Next Food Net-work Star, Hell’s Kitchen and others have been all the rage these last 10 years or more and that impact has spilled over to the local level, including the “Worcester’s Best Chef” event held at Mechanics Hall every January. The 2016 Team Chef Competition, a fundraiser for the culinary arts scholarship program at Tantasqua Regional High School in Sturbridge, MA, took place April 3rd at the Sturbridge Host Hotel.

This is their sixth annual event.

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Tantasqua culinary students and local chefs teamed up to

event under heavy time pressure. The competitors’ special ingredi-

prepare a savory entree and dessert of their choice. There were

ent this year was bacon... Joy! We tried to get comedian Jim Gaf-

six teams, each with two students and a head chef mentor. The

figan to serve as Master of Ceremonies, but his eating and stand-up

participating restaurants were: Cornerstone Café at Tantasqua

schedule were packed, much like Jim himself.

Regional High School, Eller’s Restaurant and Jay’s Twisted Fork

Set-up and prep by the teams started around 10 AM, with formal

(both in Cherry Valley), Rovezzi’s Ristorante, Sturbridge Host Hotel

plating and presentations to the judges at 11:15. The judging criteria

and Sturbridge Seafood, all in Sturbridge.

focused on appropriate temperatures of hot and cold dishes, flavor

The lucky judges were Barbara M. Houle - Telegram and Gazette,

profiles / dominant ingredients plus overall creativity and plating. At

David Vadenais - Worcester Club, Steve Londregan - Chuck’s Steak

noon, the event was opened to the general public and soon the

House and David Kmetz - Foodies of New England food writer.

function hall was filled with happy diners.

Domenic Mercurio, Chairman of FNE and Mercury Entertainment,

Winners were chosen by ballot box for people’s choice and by a

was judging for the first hour of the event but had to leave due to

voting matrix with assorted criteria for the judges. Not easy, as the

family obligations.... tough break Dom!

dishes were very diverse in approach, creativity and combinations

It was a great team effort, and the judges and attendees enjoyed

of ingredients; this year’s included split peas, braised kale, red pep-

an embarrassment of flavors and plating presentations. Students

pers, pecans, duck confit, shallot jam, pulled chicken, sweet potato,

not only learn about the discipline of prep and plating out of their

manicotti, pineapple, coconut, jicama, cilantro, mint, Lambrusco

normal comfort zone, but also the buzz of competing at a public

wine, bourbon, house made pickles and bacon smoked paprika dust!

Photo: Domenic Mercurio

Judges’ Award for entrée: Sturbridge Seafood; bacon jacketed sea scallops with a duck confit sweet potato hash and baconbourbon gastrique.

Photo: Mark Wood

Winner of the Judges’ Choice Entree Category: Team Sturbridge Seafood. Tantasqua Students Rachel Mantha (senior) and Riley Feeney (junior), Sturbridge Seafood Chef/Owner Ken Yukimura.

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Foodies of New England

Photo: Mark Wood

Winner of the Judges’ Award for dessert: Eller’s Restaurant; salted caramel apple candied bacon bars with shortbread crusted topping.

Photo: Mark Wood

Winner of the Judges’ Award for dessert: Tayla Shepard, (sophomore), and Shane Anderson, Executive Chef, Eller’s Restaurant.

Winners of the Judges’ Award for entrée: Sturbridge Seafood;

(junior) and Harry Tiscione (senior).

bacon jacketed sea scallops with a duck confit sweet potato hash

The other teams were: Cornerstone Cafe; Head Chef Adam Popp

and bacon-bourbon gastrique, created and prepared by Head Chef

with Allissa Marcille and John True (seniors), Sturbridge Host Hotel

Ken Yukimura and culinary students Rachelle Mantha (senior) and

Head Chef James Bliss with Brad George (junior) and Jake Stern-

Riley Feeney (junior). This was an exceptional dish and beautifully

dale (senior). Besides all the enthusiastic students involved, the

plated. Judges’ Award for dessert: Eller’s Restaurant; salted cara-

Sturbridge Host Hotel graciously included Ms. Meaghan Greene as

mel apple candied bacon bars with shortbread crusted topping.

mentor.

Head Chef Shane Anderson with culinary students Emily Love (senior) and Tayla Shepard (sophomore).

Awards for the winning teams were a set of professional chef’s knives donated by Dexter-Russell Inc. of Southbridge, the largest

The Peoples Choice Award for entree: Twisted Fork/Twisted Tee’s; Four-day house cured pork tenderloin bacon with jicama slaw

US manufacturer of professional cutlery, and also the oldest cutlery manufacturer in the country.

finished with a raspberry bacon cream. It WAS an amazing flavor

The real winners? The students at Tantasqua culinary!

profile, though the plating not quite up to the supremely high bar set

This writer strongly urges our FNE readers to plan on attending next

by Sturbridge Sea-food’s team. Jay Powell Head Chef with Emily

year’s event.

Monroe (senior) and Jake Glass (junior).

People’s Choice Dessert: Rovezzi’s; Bacon-lemon panna-cotta with pecan bacon brittle; Chef Mark Ronquist with Max Hunter

Photo: Mark Wood

The Peoples Choice Award for entree: Twisted Fork/Twisted Tee’s; Four-day house cured pork tenderloin bacon with jicama slaw finished with a raspberry bacon cream.

Photo: Mark Wood

The Peoples Choice Award for entree: Emily Monroe (senior), Jake Glass (junior) and Jay Powell (Executive Chef/Owner, Twisted Fork Bistro (Cherry Valley) & Twisted Tee Restaurant (Dudley).

Photo: Mark Wood

The People’s Choice Award for dessert: Rovezzi’s; Bacon-lemon pannacotta with pecan bacon brittle.

Photo: Mark Wood

The People’s Choice Award for dessert: Mark Ronquist (Executive Chef, Rovezzi’s Ristorante), Max Hunter (junior) and Harry Tiscione (senior).

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Foodies of New England

BEST in CULINARY KIDS

Invest in the Future at Café Riverview Written by Lisa Johnson Photos courtesy of Café Riverview

In a world where franchise sandwich shops rule the realm, Café Riverview in East Sandwich, Massachusetts is one of those neighborhood gems you rarely see. If you’re lucky enough to be a local, it could easily become your place.

Serving only breakfast and lunch, this establishment provides standard fare done well with bright and airy seating. But, what makes this place special is why it exists at all.

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Café Riverview is a working experiment from the Riverview School,

items include bagels, egg and cheese sandwiches, oatmeal and hot

a boarding/day school for students with complex language, learn-

quinoa. Or try the Breakfast Titan, (sausage, eggs, chives and feta

ing, and cognitive challenges.

served on a Portuguese muffin).

Established in 1957, the school’s curriculum includes academic

Lunch is an extensive list of sandwiches, wraps, salads and

work and social skills and looks to the future for their students, pro-

soups—everything from the classic BLT to the Admiral Wrap,

viding them with independent living skills.

(smoked salmon with cream cheese, baby spinach, red onion, cu-

About five years ago, Riverview

cumber, capers, and a drizzle of

collaborated with the folks at

horseradish all in a lo-carb wheat

Harvard Business School to determine successful career paths for their students. They discovered that the food service and hospitality industries were the best options, and soon work began on converting an old building

“Breakfast items include bagels, egg and cheese sandwiches, oatmeal and hot quinoa. Or try the Breakfast Titan, (sausage, eggs, chives and feta served on a Portuguese muffin).”

wrap). Plus, their baked goods show depth and plenty of flavor.

There’s also a second-hand shop run by GROW students, and it boasts books, clothing, kitchen items, and other knickknacks.

on Route 6A into the hands-on

The staff is friendly, efficient,

classroom that is Café Riverview.

and the food is darn good, not

The staff there is part of the Getting Ready for the Outside World program (GROW) for adults aged 18 to 22.

to mention the coffee. The barista skills at Café Riverview compete with the busiest coffee shop in the city.

“Students who learn about the food service industry through their

If you’re meandering down the Cape this summer and passing

work experience at Café Riverview are highly employable,” said Café

through East Sandwich, stop in, pull up a chair, wrap your hands

Riverview Manager Cathy Budreski. “In addition to learning about

around a steamy mug of chai, grab a bite to eat and know that

restaurant operations and how to prepare food and serve the pub-

you’re not just getting a great meal, you’re helping young adults

lic, they take great pride in their jobs and are excellent, committed

integrate into the world. What could be sweeter than that?

employees.”

As for the food itself, why not start with the daily specials? They tend to sell out, so if it looks good, try it while you can. Breakfast

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Foodies of New England

Café Riverview is located at 451 Route 6A, East Sandwich, MA, 02537; Tel. 508.833.8365; www.riverviewschool.org; Open daily from 7:00am to 2:00pm.

Twins, Gideon and Caleb (darker shirt) Bresley enjoy learning about the food service industry by working at CafÊ Riverview, Riverview School’s hands-on classroom for its GROW (Getting Ready for the Outside World) transition program students.

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Foodies of New England

BEST in CULINARY KIDS

Toasting 10 Tasty Years of Culinary Competition Written by Domenic D. Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

On January 29, 2017, the Worcester’s Best Chef (WBC) competition will celebrate 10 years as Central New England’s premiere culinary competition.

To mark the occasion, this year’s event will feature a battle between the top finalists and Iron Chef champions from the last nine years, all converging on historic Mechanics Hall to lay claim to bragging rights that will undoubtedly follow the ultimate question: Who will be the best of the best?

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A Marvel of Culinary Greatness Attracting foodies throughout New England, WBC puts the spotlight squarely on Central Massachusetts as a culinary destination. Beyond the usual sheaf of tremendous chefs, last year’s event offered foodies up-close and personal visits with at least 10 local farmers, craft beer vendors, fine wine tastings, and incredibly interesting and unique cocktails created by Lock 50 and Campari America.

WBC occupied all levels and rooms of Mechanics Hall. Filled up to its gorgeous, historic rafters, 1,200 guests gathered in Renaissance revival concert hall to taste the creations of some of New England’s top culinary masters. “[It] has quickly become the premier event for local chefs to put it on the plate for 1,200 potential future customers,” explained John Lawrence, executive chef and owner of Pepper’s Fine Catering, the catering team that managed the chefs’ needs both on stage and in the kitchens that night.

Nearly two dozen culinary experts and their teams competed for the top three spots of the Judges’ Choice Awards. Those finalists then competed live on stage in a 30-minute Iron Chef-style competition, using Thermador kitchen equipment and a full pantry of ingredients.

Competing were first-place Judges’ Choice winner Chef Christopher Anthony Bairos, from Amaia Martini Bar in Hudson; secondplace Judges’ Choice winner Chef Ken Zhang, from Yummy Steak House in Worcester; and haute cuisine veteran William Nemeroff, executive chef at The International in Bolton, Massachusetts.

This round was narrated by 2012 WBC Iron Chef Champion Christopher Rovezzi, executive chef/owner of Rovezzi’s Ristorante in Sturbridge, and was kicked off by Masters of Ceremonies Jen Carter and Rick Brackett from WXLO. “The Iron Chef final round is really exciting, and you can feel the stress that the chefs are under,” Carter commented. “The fact that they have no idea what they’re going to prepare or what ingredients they’ll use until they open the mystery basket is really unnerving.”

There really is no way to know what ingredients are in the basket until the clock starts and the timekeeper yells, “GO!” which makes it impossible to practice or prepare for that final round. That and the ticking clock always creates stress. “Fifteen minutes into it and you’re realizing what you should have done differently,” said Chef Nemeroff.

But, when it comes to cooking under pressure, Bairos said it best, “We do it every night.”

Bairos of Amaia Martini Bar in Hudson; Adam Hicks of Depot Street Tavern in Milford; Phil Dimopoulos of Zorba’s Taverna in Worcester; Ben Wall of Bistro Eighty Ates in Webster; Joel Howard of 5 Loaves Cafe & Bakery in Spencer; Shane Anderson of Eller’s Restaurant in Cherry Valley; Ken Zhang of Yummy’s Japanese Steak House in Worcester; Rick Araujo of Civic Kitchen & Drink in Westboro; Andrew Hollingworth of The Compass Tavern in Worcester; William

And The Winner Is…

Nemeroff of The International in Bolton; Tom Kepner of Rail Trail in

First and foremost, the entire roster of talented epicureans who com-

Hudson; and Sam Lin of Chuan Shabu Hot Pot in Worcester.

peted were: Andrew Angilella of Mare E Monti Trattoria in Worcester,

Ultimately, Nemeroff took the top honor and the coveted crystal tro-

Wilson Wang of Baba Sushi in Sturbridge, an newly-added location

phy. Earlier that day, he carved out his place in the Iron Chef round by

to Baba since last winter; Michael Arrastia of The Hangover Pub in

capturing the judges’ attention with a strip steak dusted with pickled

Worcester; Chris Towne of Boom Boom’s Kitchen on Ludlow Com-

mustard seeds. Previously the owner of Cedar Street Grille in Stur-

munity Television; Ken O’Keefe of the Publick House in Sturbridge;

bridge, then the executive chef at Ceres Bistro at the Beechwood

Ken Yukimura of Sturbridge Seafood in Sturbridge; Chris Anthony

Hotel in Worcester, Nemeroff left to accept an executive chef post

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Foodies of New England

at Old Sturbridge Village before going on to

region’s culinary talent and showcase it

with the mission of highlighting Central Mas-

The International in Bolton.

in a live competition, it also gives back to

sachusetts as a culinary destination by pro-

The all-star judges’ panel included Barba-

the community’s up–and–coming chefs,”

moting the area’s finest epicureans. Now,

ra Houle, food columnist and writer of “Table

says Domenic Mercurio, Jr., creator of

it’s clear that it has succeeded; if you’re

Hoppin” at the Telegram & Gazette; Chef

Best Chef.

seeking the best of the best chefs all in one

Peter Eco, formerly of the Worcester Coun-

Last year, the event raised nearly $7,000

try Club; James Palmariello, Lead Chef of

for high school culinary programs, which

In addition to international wine, spirits,

Worcester Public Schools; Chef Tom Little,

was split between Tantasqua Regional High

craft beer and mulled beverage tastings,

the former executive chef at Pepper’s Fine

School and Bay Path Regional Vocational

WBC also offers champagne and choco-

Catering; Chef Albert Maykel III, 2013 WBC

Technical High School for their Culinary Arts

late tastings for VIP guests, VIP therapeutic

Iron Chef champion and executive chef/

Programs.

massage, one-on-one recipe consultation

night, all in one place, this is it.

owner of Bootleggers in Worcester; Chef

To date, the event has collectively raised

with competing chefs for VIP, paparazzi

Neil Rogers, 2014 WBC Iron Chef champi-

$40,000 for Worcester Technical High

guest photography on entrance, and valet

on and corporate chef de cuisine with Niche

School, Tantasqua Regional High School,

parking. We’re so excited to see another

Hospitality Group; and Chef Tim Russo,

and Bay Path Regional Vocational Techni-

group of talented up-and-coming chefs

2015 WBC Iron Chef champion, and execu-

cal High School, as well as Veteran’s Inc.

grace the hallowed caverns of Mechanics

tive chef/owner of Lock 50 in Worcester.

for its efforts to feed veterans in need. WBC

Hall, all giving their all and garnishing their

“The Iron Chef final round was really excit-

also provides job shadowing for culinary

gastric greatness alongside the best chefs

ing,” said Judge Neil Rogers. “All the com-

students who assist chefs during the com-

in the region.

petitors were excellent, but I thought Chef

petition, which has, in some cases, led to

Nemeroff worked neatly, had himself orga-

employment opportunities.

nized, and really approached things well under pressure.”

Bring your appetite on Sunday, January 29, 2017, and don’t miss the opportunity to

There’s even a friendly Best Student Des-

vote your palate at the historic 10th Anniver-

sert competition. Last year, Tantasqua Re-

sary of Worcester’s Best Chef competition

Chef Rick Araujo, from Civic Kitchen &

gional High School students won the award

as the best of the best compete for the title

Drink of Westboro, took home the WXLO

with their pineapple upside-down cheese-

of Worcester’s Best Chef 2017. Of course,

Perfect Palate Award. And, rounding out

cake, while runners-up from Bay Path Re-

we’ll have another line-up of terrific culinary

the night were the top three finalists in the

gional Vocational Technical High School’s

kids from at least 2 technical high schools,

People’s Choice competition, Chef Ken Yu-

culinary program offered up a white choc-

working with the pros and competing for the

kimura of Sturbridge Seafood in Sturbridge,

olate-dipped homemade graham cracker

Best Student Dessert.

Chef Shane Anderson of Eller’s Restaurant

crust filled with key lime curd and topped

in Cherry Valley, and Chef Adam Hicks from

with white chocolate mousse.

Depot Street Tavern in Milford.

On Tap for 2017

Do Good, Eat Good

Almost ten years ago, Mercury Media & En-

“While the purpose of WBC is to take the

tertainment created the WBC competition

WBC reservations make excellent stocking stuffers for your favorite foodie.

Reserve your place online at www.WorcestersBestChef.com.

Worcester Technical High School Culinary Students accept their prize at Best Chef 2015

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89

FUN FACT Did you know?

That according to a recent survey by Esquire Magazine, 93% of Americans pick up and read magazines an average of 43 minutes a day.

Still think you can get that much exposure from a billboard or the web?

Try advertising with us and savor the rewards!

Foodies of New England

90

Foodies of New England

finds Muuna Cottage Cheeses Oh My Goodness!

Bye, bye, boring… Hello, Muuna! Yes, foodies, say ‘hello’ to the irresistibly crave-able taste of Muuna cottage cheeses – each flavor perfected with delectable, real fruit on the bottom; including strawberry, pineapple, blueberry, peach, mango and low-fat plain.

We’ve tried it, and it’s true – it really is melt-in-yourmouth creamy deliciousness – and no artificial flavors, colors or sweeteners. It’s all natural, orchard-fresh fruit that leaves you wanting more.

Try it, foodies – you’ll be so glad you did!

Check out our website! muuna.com

^ Do you have a New England based food product or cook book you’d like to see on the pages of Foodies Magazine? Learn more here: www.foodiesofnewengland.com.

Winter 2017

91

Healthy at Home

Recipes by Elaine Pusateri Cowan Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

www.theuxlocale.com Elaine is Owner and Chef de Cuisine at The UXLocale. A thirdgeneration Sicilian, wife and mother of two—and now restaurateur— who describes her cooking style as slow, peasant food with an Italian twist. Elaine’s passion for food and its preparation began early in life.

“I’ve been a sous-chef since I was three feet tall, standing on tiptoe to see creations on the kitchen countertop, and I continue to learn today. My recipes and cooking style have evolved from the many memories of people at the stove; family, friends and neighbors.

Those people, and their spirit, live on in my kitchen with me.”

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Foodies of New England

Butternut Squash Ravioli, Perfect for Autumn Early autumn is my favorite season.

English poet and playwright Robert Browning said, “I trust in nature for the stable laws of beauty and utility. Spring shall plant and autumn garner to the end of time.”

Somehow the air seems cleaner, the nights cooler, and most importantly, it’s harvest time for butternut squash and the young Lodi apples featured in this recipe.

Butternut squash, even though it’s considered a winter squash, is actually harvested in autumn. It’s thick skin and tough exterior protect the nutrient-rich fruit (potassium and vitamins A, B-6, C and E), and it’s a great source of fiber.

Another positive to keep in mind when agonizing over peeling a butternut squash is that its tough skin also makes it easy to store well into the winter months, so stock up (maybe make my butternut chili from Healthy at Home in the Fall 2013 issue of Foodies).

Lodi apples are a new favorite of mine. At my restaurant— I never get tired of saying that—I source the bulk of my produce through Foppema’s Farm, which happens to be only six miles from The UXLocale. I was at the farm stand there when I happened upon an early bushel of these beautiful yellow-green apples, smaller than average, but so satisfyingly sweet and tart—a perfect pairing for the butternut squash. And, in keeping with the idea of stocking up, Lodi apples do not keep in the fridge for long, but they do freeze well.

Making the pasta for this recipe is a little bit more labor intensive than most of my recipes, but fresh pasta tastes so much better, and when you have help it can be really fun. My son Chad joined me on this one. He has a graceful hand when it comes to pasta and may enjoy cooking just as much as his mamma.

You can make the dough and chill it for 30 minutes—it will come out fine—but this is the one time when I practice patience and wait 24 hours. The resting period allows the flour to continue to hydrate and the gluten to relax.

Consider the broth a tradeoff for the pasta—it couldn’t be simpler.

There’s a certain elegance to a simple broth; it doesn’t overwhelm but simply provides a tasty bath in which the ravioli can soak. Using cider in the broth was, at first, an attempt to keep within this issue’s theme, but it became the one ingredient that really tied the whole recipe together. Enjoy!

If you want to visit us at The UXLocale, we’re located at 510 Hartford Avenue West, Uxbridge, MA 01569; for more information, visit www.theuxlocale.com.

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Ravioli Filling Ingredients: 1.5 Cups butternut squash 3 Tablespoons of real maple syrup 3 Teaspoons of brown sugar 1 Shredded Lodi apple 1 Cup ricotta 1/2 Cup Parmigiano-Reggiano 1/4 Teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg DIRECTIONS 1. Bake butternut squash at 400°F for 50 minutes with 2 tablespoons of maple syrup and brown sugar.

2. Scoop out the butternut squash into a large bowl, mash up any chunks with back of fork.

3. Add the remaining tablespoon of maple syrup.

4. Add shredded apple. Tip: to keep the apple from browning, shred it into a bowl of icy lemon-water, about half a lemon should do the trick.

5. Add remaining ingredients and combine well.

Broth Ingredients: 1/2 Stick of butter 2 Cloves of garlic, minced 1.5 Cups veggie stock 1/2 Cup apple cider 3 Tablespoons of parsley DIRECTIONS 1. In a medium saucepan, melt butter.

2. Add minced garlic. Cook until golden. Do not brown.

3. Add veggie stock, cider, 1.5 tablespoons of parsley (reserve some for garnish).

4. Simmer on low heat until ravioli is done.

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Foodies of New England

Butternut Squash Ravioli in a Veggie-Cider Broth Yields 20 large, hand-cut ravioli Pasta Ingredients: 1 Cup semolina 1 Cup all-purpose flour 3 Large eggs, or 4 medium eggs 1 Tablespoon of olive oil Flour for dusting DIRECTIONS 1.

Combine all ingredients in the order listed.

Mix with dough hook until dough is formed.

Remove from bowl, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes (overnight is best).

2. Cut the refrigerated dough ball into four pieces, and roll out strips.

3. Send through pasta machine 7 times.

I like to run it through on each level twice.

4. Using two spoons, spoon the filling onto the strip, leaving two inches between each spoonful.

5. If dough is dry, baste edges with the tiniest amount of water.

6. Cut and press edges.

7. Drop into a pot of boiling salted water until they float.

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Foodies of New England

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Sweet Sensations

Oh My, Apple Pie!

H

omemade apple pie embodies the fall season in a way that few other desserts can.

There’s beauty in the natural simplicity of a New England autumn that just can’t be found in other locations, just like the simple seasonal beau-

ty of a traditional apple pie—slightly sweet and tart flavors combine with the perfect amount of cinnamon and a buttery rich crust to give you a uniquely fall feeling.

Recently, my family started an annual tradition: apple picking. We all head to a local Written by Lina Bifano

apple farm, pick bushels of apples, and take them home to enjoy. The taste that comes

Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

from a ripe, freshly-picked apple is so delectable, the car ride home from the orchard is silent (a true rarity when you have a five and six year-old), except for the inevitable “crack” every few seconds that comes from biting into those fresh, crisp apples.

An avid cook and mother of two, Lina Bifano values the importance of home-cooked meals for her family. She understands that time constraints and children’s schedules can often dictate how a family eats—so she develops strategies that allow her family to still enjoy delicious, healthy meals, even at a moment’s notice. Her travels throughout Italy and France have been the inspiration for all of her recipes and Lina has incorporated those ideas into modern, familyfriendly fare. The desserts she creates— with sophisticated flavors that can be easily achieved by anyone—give even the novice home cook the opportunity to wow family and friends alike.

If you’ve never attempted a made-from-scratch apple pie, or if you’re used to premade crusts and canned pie filling, I implore you to try doing it all at home. Try this apple pie recipe just once and you’ll never go back to pre-made again.

There are two types of apple pie you typically see: crust top and crumb top.

The traditional crust top is a pie we’ve grown to love year-round. You’ll typically see this type of pie on a grocery store shelf, pre-packaged, and ready to go. When it’s made from scratch, it can be difficult to achieve a perfectly flaky crust on top, as it tends to absorb the moisture from the filling.

The crispy, crumb top pie is traditionally seen in the fall, piled high with apples and buttery crumble, and served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. This type of pie can only be made with fresh apples and requires more prep time, but it’s worth it. It freezes very well and can be repeatedly warmed without worrying about over-browning the top.

Although this pie is fairly simple to prepare, the prep work must be done correctly to ensure consistent results.

Any time you’re working with fresh fruit, you’re working with a variable. No two apples taste the same, and a sour apple will greatly alter the taste of the end product. So, always try your fruit first and adjust the amount of sugar in your recipe accordingly.

You’ll want to look for a crispy apple that’s not too sweet but also not sour. You also don’t want a variety of apple that is too juicy. In other words, the best apples for eating aren’t always the best ones for baking.

I like to use Macoun apples for baking. The Macoun is an apple that tastes like an apple, and I find their slightly sweet yet very aromatic nature always gives your dish the perfect apple taste. continued on page 102

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For the perfect crumb top apple pie, you’ll

people putting pumpkins and dried corn-

and yellows. Breathe in the scents of cin-

want to use a mandolin slicer that will give

stalks out on their front porches, nor is it

namon and spice wherever you may go. Sit

you a 1/4-inch slice and you’ll want to work

about the seasonal spiced lattes. It’s the

on the deck with a slice of homemade apple

quickly. Be sure to blind-bake your crust for

splendor that is nature taking its course. We

pie, still warm from the oven, topped with

at least 15 minutes, covering the edges with

don’t help it along. We don’t add anything to

a rich scoop of vanilla ice cream. No mat-

a pie shield or simply wrapping the crust

it. We’re simply spectators to this beautiful

ter what, you’ll find yourself inadvertently

edges in aluminum foil, which should stay in

awakening of our senses, and we’re privy to

scraping the plate, making sure to not leave

place until the final 15 to 20 minutes of the

it only a few fleeting weeks each year.

a single crumb. Such is fall—warm, cool,

baking process.

So take a walk on a crisp October morn-

This autumn, remember to delight in the

ing around a lake or a pond, and observe

beauty that embodies New England dur-

the colorful reflection of changing leaves in

ing this special time of year. It’s not about

varying hues of the brightest oranges, reds

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Foodies of New England

delicious, fleeting.

Questions or comments can be directed to Lina via email at LinaBifano@gmail.com.

Crust Top Apple Pie

Filling

Pie Crust

Ingredients:

Ingredients: 1.5 Cups of all-purpose flour 1 Stick, plus 2 tablespoons, of butter Up to 1/2 cup of cold water 1/2 Teaspoon kosher salt Directions: 1. Combine dry ingredients in a bowl.

2. Cube the butter and add to the dry ingredient mixture, slowly cutting it in and adding the water, one tablespoon at a time.

The mixture should be dough-like and soft, but not sticky.

(If it’s too sticky, add more flour, one teaspoon at a time.)

3. Flatten into a thick circle, wrap in plastic and allow to chill for at least 4 hours.

4. When ready, preheat oven to 375°F. 5. Roll dough into a 9- or 10-inch circle. Press it evenly into the sides and over the edge of the pan. (If you’d like a pinched edge, allow 1/2-inch of dough to lay over the pie pan and pinch the crust into scalloped semi-circles, all the way around the edge.)

6. Using a pie crust shield or aluminum foil, cover only the crust to protect it from burning. Blind-bake for 15 to 18 minutes, depending on your oven. (Leave the crust shield in place even after blind baking is done and your pie is filled. You’ll remove the shield in the last 15 to 20 minutes of baking).

5 to 6 Macoun apples, peeled and thinly sliced 1/2 Cup white sugar 1/2 Cup, plus 3 Tablespoons, all-purpose flour 1/4 Teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 Good pinch ground nutmeg (approximately 1/8 teaspoon) 1/2 Cup packed brown sugar 1/2 Stick of unsalted, diced butter Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 375°F. 2. Peel apples. Then, using a mandolin slicer or a good sharp knife, slice apples into 1/4-inch slices.

3. In a bowl, mix white sugar, 3 tablespoons of flour, cinnamon and nutmeg. Sprinkle mixture over apples and toss it all together with your hands until mixed evenly throughout. Carefully place into baked pie crust.

4. In another bowl, mix the remaining 1/2 cup of flour and brown sugar. Cut in the butter with your hands until the mixture is crumbly. Sprinkle the crumb-top mixture over the apple filling.

5. Cover the entire pie (even the pie crust shield, which should still in place) loosely with aluminum foil, and bake for 30 minutes on a tray (this pie tends to boil over).

6. Remove aluminum foil. Bake for an additional 15 minutes.

7. Remove the pie crust shield. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes more.

8. Allow pie to cool on a counter until just slightly warm (this pie can also be made in advance and reheated). Serve warm and with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

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103

Brew Review

Boneshaker Brown

M

oat Mountain Brewing Company of New Hampshire began in 2000 as a brew pub, smoke house, and restaurant. More recently they added a cannery, and their distribution has reached into Massachusetts and Vermont. Like a score of other breweries, they have capitalized on the

development of 16 and 24 oz. craft cans, newly designed for micro-breweries for better storage, shipping, and flavor preservation as well as a way to show off innovative commercial design.

For the late summer and early fall, I recommend their Boneshaker Brown Ale. This is a solid effort at a classic English Brown Ale. The color is superb, like beautifully aged orange shellac, set against a creamy head. The foamy one-inch head dissipates quickly, and the nose opens up a bit, releasing subtle notes of bready grains, walnuts, and Written by Matt Jones Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

a faint evergreen resin. For once, the nose and the palate agree. The first sip reveals additional complexities of toasted, malty oats, creaminess, and a well-constructed balance of bitterness and sweetness. At 5.4 ABV, this beer is easy to drink, with a medium level of carbonation. The flavor is consistent to the finish. I prefer this to Smuttynose, which is hoppier, but it’s not as luxurious as Sam Smith’s Nut Brown Ale, with its brown sugar and toffee notes. Brown ales as a style of beer are excellent in the cooler

Matthew Jones is a curmudgeon

evenings with roasted or smoky foods (think grilled corn on the cob and smoked ribs).

and a crusader for a world of

I’d like to try it on draft!

quality and originality. He has spent the last 25 years restoring books, documents maps and globes.

When he is not teaching Japanese martial arts or climbing mountains, chances are he will be testing out

Boneshaker is a top notch English Brown Ale, which is available on site and by limited distribution in cans. As of this writing (August 2016), they are carrying their Hell Yes! Helles Lager, East Intervale IPA, and Miss V’s Blueberry; in the fall that will switch to Opa’s Oktoberfest as the limited seasonal offering. I will be sad to see their Kearsarge Kölsch go for now; it’s very crisp, fruity, clean, and refreshing. The Hoffman Weiss may also see future availability off site.

Moat Mountain has been busy in the last

the merits of best brewed or

few years, establishing a forward-thinking,

distilled libations.

environmentally-friendly facility, restoring the old Limmer Custom Boot Factory barn in Intervale, New Hampshire, and expanding distribution and availability of their range of beers and ales. Brewers Scott Simoneau and Matt Moore, original apprentices of Will Gilson, and founder Steve Johnson have kept the quality high and the costs to around $10 for a 4 pack of 16 oz. cans, rather than the alarmingly standard $13 to $15 from other ultra-chic craft canned offerings around New England. One would think the benefits and easy recyclability of these cans would translate to a small savings over imported bottle offerings. $10 is a steal. Cheers everyone!

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Foodies of New England

Moat Mountain Brewing Company 3378 White Mountain Highway Route 16 North Conway, NH 03860 Phone: 603-356-6381

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Foodies of New England

Gluten Free

Fall Harvest

Butternut Squash Fries Ingredients 1 butternut squash, 1 1/2 - 2 lbs.

1 tbsp olive oil 1/2 tsp sea salt freshly ground pepper Directions Peel, seed and cut the butternut squash into 1” – 2” pieces. Place in bowl and drizzle with olive oil, enough to lightly coat all of the pieces.

Sprinkle with salt & pepper. Spread on baking tray (with sides) lined with parchment paper.

Bake 350˚ for 45 minutes. After 30 minutes, remove from oven and gently mix the squash around. This will keep it from sticking to the parchment paper. Continue baking for another 15 minutes or until the doneness is to your liking.

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Grilled Asian Tofu Ingredients 1 lb block of tofu 1/4 cup olive oil 1/4 cup + 2 tbsp wheat-free tamari 2 tbsp dark balsamic vinegar 3 tbsp agave syrup (can use honey or maple syrup) 1 tsp Frank’s Red Hot Sauce 1 garlic clove, minced 1” knob ginger, grated Drain the tofu and press between two heavy plates for one hour. Drain again. Alternatively, use a TofuXpress to express the water from the tofu. It can be found here: www.tofuxpress.com Combine the remaining ingredients, whisking well to combine. Slice the tofu into 1/2” slices and cover with the marinade for at least one hour. Grill on bbq grill or in grill pan on stove until you see grill marks on each side.

Gluten Free Onion Shortcake Ingredients 1 package Bob’s Red Mill Gluten Free cornbread mix 1 1/2 cup milk (rice, soy, almond, dairy, etc.)

1/3 cup vegetable oil 2 eggs 1/4 cup olive oil 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 lbs. chopped onions 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp thyme 1 tsp rosemary 1/2 tsp sage 3 large eggs 1 cup Silk Soy Creamer 1/2 tsp salt freshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 400˚. Oil the bottom of an oblong baking pan.

Mix the cornbread mix with the milk, vegetable oil and eggs per the package directions. Spread the uncooked batter onto the bottom of the oiled pan. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan. Saute the onions, salt, thyme, rosemary and sage in the olive oil until onions are carmelized. Spread evenly over the uncooked batter.

Set aside.

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Foodies of New England

Whisk together the eggs, silk creamer, salt and pepper.

Pour the egg mixture over the onion mixture.

Bake 25 – 30 minutes until the edges begin to brown and the mixture feels firm when pressed. Serve warm.

Serves approximately 12 – 18 people.

Wild Rice & Brown Rice Pilaf Ingredients 1 1/2 cup cooked brown rice 1 1/2 cup cooked wild rice 1/4 cup dried cranberries 1/4 cup pumpkin seeds or pepitas 1 tsp dried tarragon 1/2 tsp salt freshly ground pepper to taste Combine all the ingredients blending well.

Serve warm or room temperature.

Apple Crisp Ingredients 6 – 8 Granny Smith apples 1/4 cup apple juice 1 tsp. cinnamon 3 tbsp diced candied ginger 3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar 3/4 cup Gluten Free rolled oats 5 tbsp brown rice flour 2 tbsp potato starch 1 tbsp tapioca starch 1/4 tsp xanthan gum 1 tsp each ground cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice 1/4 tsp sea salt 1/2 cup cold butter Preheat oven 375˚. Peel, core and slice the apples until you have 6 cups. Mix the apples with apple juice, 1 tsp cinnamon and candied ginger. Place in ungreased 9” square baking pan.

Combine brown sugar, oats, brown rice flour, potato starch, tapioca starch, xanthan gum, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and sea salt. Cut the butter into this mixture with a pastry blender or fork until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs.* Sprinkle this mixture over the apples. Bake 25 – 35 minutes or until apples are tender to the touch. *Note: Place the butter in the freezer for about a half hour before you begin assembling this recipe. When you’re ready to proceed with cutting the butter into the flour mixture, grate the frozen butter with a hand grater directly into the flour mixture. The butter will fall into the mixture in small, grated pieces and will then be easier to cut into the flour mixture.

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Whiskey

Under Loch & Key

Written by Ryan Maloney Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ryan Maloney has over twenty five years experience in the spirits industry. He is the founder of The Loch & K(e)y Society and the creator of www.lochandkey.com a forum based whisk(e)y website.

Ryan was just inducted into the Keeper of the Quaich Society in Scotland, one of whisky’s highest honors. He can also be heard on WCRN AM830 on his radio show “It’s The Liquor Talking”. However, Ryan is most recognized as the owner of Julio’s Liquors in Westborough MA, where amongst other accolades he has been three times awarded “Retailer of the Year”.

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Foodies of New England

Sure, you can buy single malt scotch under 50 bucks, but is it any good?

R

ecently, we sold an extremely rare whisky at Julio’s Liquors.

This single malt Scotch whisky was distilled in 1974

and bottled in 2007. With a retail value of $21,000, the Ardbeg Double Barrel was one of only 250 sets produced from six casks. The bottles were a set of

the oldest and rarest stock from Ardbeg Distillery.

In addition to the whisky being in hand-blown bottles, the set included

eight solid silver drinking cups expertly crafted by Hamilton & Inches of Edinburgh (the silversmith to Queen Elizabeth II) and a bespoke pen from Omas Fountain Pens.

This set was rare and beautiful, but at $21,000, it was out of my—and most people’s—price range. The sale did, however, get me to think about really nice single malt scotches that people could afford to drink on a regular basis. So, with a limit of 50 bucks, I put pen to paper and mouth to glass.

Here are my top three picks for Single Malt Scotch Whisky for under $50.* continued on page 112

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111

Ardbeg Ten, $49.99 It’s no surprise that after selling that rare Ardbeg I’d look to its youngest sibling to start the list. And why not? This little beauty has been one of the most popular expressions of whisky from Islay for years.

Often hyped in its ads as “big and untamed,” I find this whisky to be much more than just a smoky powerhouse.

Ardbeg Ten is a non-chilled filtered 92 proof (46% abv) 10-year-old whisky that is deceptively cleaver as you pour it into your glass.

Pale in color—straw to almost clear—you might think that there would be little flavor coming from such a light whisky when, suddenly, your nose flares, engulfed in that smoke that made Islay famous.

However, the aromas coming off this whisky are not one dimensional. Yes, there is smoke, but there is also the earthiness of the peat along with whiffs of salty beach air. As you taste it, the smoke, peat and salt air mix and an almost bacony (that’s not a word, but it should be) flavor emerges. Those first favors are followed by citrus, and then a definite sweetness.

The whisky finishes warm with both the smoke and the sweetness lingering.

Is this whisky for everyone? Probably not, but sooner or later it’ll make its way into your collection because it must be experienced.

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Foodies of New England

Glen Garioch 1797 Founders Reserve, $44.99 My next pick brings single malt Scotch whisky back to its roots, “old school” style.

Today many of the Highland region single malts are light whiskies, and by “light”, I mean lack of mouthfeel. They are citrusy, mostly lemon with grassy tones, but lacking in gravitas. This is not true for Glen Garioch 1797 Founders Reserve, a non-chilled filtered 96 proof (48% abv) Highland Single Malt that is reminiscent of the Highland whiskies of yesteryear.

The color is reddish-amber, probably because it contains whiskies aged in ex-sherry barrels as well as ex-bourbon barrels. The nose is filled with fields of heather, vanilla and hints of Bartlett pears.

As you start to drink this whisky it becomes apparent that there is a weightier feel to this expression. The viscosity is heavier than most, and it allows flavors of dried fruit, spice and raisins to surround your tongue.

The finish is long, with some lime sweetness and hints of cedar.

This whisky is what the Highlands used to be all about. A must-try single malt scotch for the price.

Glen Grant 12-year-old Speyside Single Malt, $47.99 The last whisky on my list is a new expression entering the US market, and until 2017 it will only be available in New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts, California, Texas, Illinois and Florida.

Now, usually I would not put a new whisky on a short list like this, but I was so impressed by the taste and price that it bumped several established brands off my radar. So, without further ado I present the Glen Grant 12-year-old Speyside single malt.

This bright, amber-colored whisky is 86 proof (43% abv) and gives off aromas of apples and pears as soon as it is uncorked.

Upon further nosing, hints of dried almonds and lemon join in to give a full, sensory experience.

As you drink, tastes of apple turnover mingle with Bosc pear and toffee. All this finishes nicely with orchard fruitiness and hints of spice.

The layers of flavors in this relatively light style of whisky are quite remarkable. The distillery attributes this depth of flavor to their unique distillation process, which uses water-cooling purifiers on both first and second distillations—a method, they say, that allows only the most refined vapors to condense into a spirit that will become Glen Grant whisky.

Quite frankly, I don’t care if they have fairies sprinkling pixie dust on this whisky to get these results, just keep doing it.

So there you have it, my top three choices for Single Malt Scotch under 50 bucks. You may or may not agree with my selections, but that’s not the point. The point is there are good whiskies under 50 dollars, you just have to look.

Get out there, taste whisky, and come up with your own list. Just remember, there’s never a bad day for good whisk(e)y. *I hate giving prices because there is a market difference, even throughout New England. So, be aware that prices may vary depending on where you’re buying.

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Wines of Distinction

29 & OAK: A Destination for Cab Fans

Written by Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Known in restaurant circles as The Wine Guy, Domenic is focused on food and wine education.

I got into the cab and told the driver, “29 & Oak, please – Oakville.”

This is actually a famous crossroads address in Napa, California, boasting the 29 & Oak Winery, dotted with fabulous Cabernet, Zinfandel, Merlot and other vines – all

Domenic’s enthusiasm and passion

growing berries dense with pulp and sugar. But, if you’re a foodie from New England,

for food and wine, propelled him into

Napa is a long trip – especially in a cab. Fortunately, I took a plane to Sacramento, and

a local TV wine education series,

cab’d it from there. Getting into Napa, the scenery is mostly plain-like and verdant,

The Wine Guy, in which he took viewers on a tour of California and

with rolling vineyards and fruit trees framed by the Vaca and Mayacamas Mountains looming off in the distance.

Oakville is a very important AVA (American Viticultural Area) within the famed Napa

Italy’s wine regions and historic

Valley area, and the 29 & Oak winery is centered right in the heart of Oakville. Wine-

destinations.

maker Trevor Sheehan points out that his winery’s geographic reference point – 29 &

In addition to being the editor and

Oak – is helpful in his efforts to create superb California Cabernet. “Because we’re at

publisher of Foodies of New England magazine, Dom is the host of Foodies of New England, a dynamic and

two of the most identifiable crossroads in the entire Napa Valley – Rt. 29 (St. Helena Highway) and Oak (Bella Oaks Lane) – we’re able to benefit from a flat expanse of welldrained gravel soil between the Vaca and Mayacamas Mountains.”

With the Napa River just a few feet away, roots of the Cabernet vines in the Oakville

educational TV show. The show

District can easily find their natural irrigation without having to dig too deeply into the

features New England’s best,

soil. As a result, Oakville is known for its ability to produce excellent Bordeaux varietals

award-winning chefs, and their

(like Cabernet Sauvignon), and 29 & Oak Cabernet is a great example of this; offering

signature recipes.

rich texture, firm tannins, and earthy notes of mint and herbs.

Sheehan says that the Oakville soil is the result of sedimentary deposits from the hills that form Napa Valley. “Irrigation and drainage is key; our soil is mostly gravel and some sand, so water flows between the tiny stones and grains very easily, and this is what keeps water from settling at the base of the vines and causing root rot.”

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Foodies of New England

Specifically, that portion of the AVA between Rt. 29 and the Silverado Trail is a mix of clay and well-drained sandy loam.

In addition, Oakville has a warm climate which is very well-suited to the growth of wine grapes.

Typically, warm wind and

moist fog roll in from San Pablo Bay in the morning and evening, and this serves to elevate the sugar and acid levels in the grapes. The Yountville Mountains mitigate the intensity of the fog and its impact on the grapes, while the hot, dry sun burn off the moisture during peak daytime hours.

As a result, there is a good deal of climactic balance in the Oakville area, which leads to superb grape development and, ultimately, well-crafted wines.

Sheehan vinifies the 29 & Oak Cabernet Sauvignon in American oak barrels and ages the wine for 2 years in smaller, new, French oak barriques. After bottling, he lets it rest for 6 months to soften before release.

The final product is a Cabernet that is intense and highly aromatic on the nose, showing elements of blackberry, violets, and cassis.

The palate continues crisp,

with minty blackcurrant and black raspberry flavors that are laced with hints of tea, and turn chalky on the finish, mostly as a result of the 2 years aging in barriques.

29 & Oak Cabernet Sauvignon retails around $29.99, is available in all Roche Brothers

premium

wine

departments,

and is imported by Global Wines, Inc. of Framingham, Massachusetts.

Foodies of New England gives 29 & Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 92 points: Superbly rich, decadent and packed with hefty California quality.

-FNE.

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115

Cornish Game Hens with Garlic and Rosemary Makes 4 servings Ingredients: 4 Cornish game hens Salt and pepper to taste 1 Lemon, quartered 4 Sprigs fresh rosemary 3 Tablespoons olive oil 18 Garlic cloves 1/3 Cup white wine 1/3 Cup low-sodium chicken broth 4 Sprigs fresh rosemary for garnish Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. 2. Rub hens with 1 tablespoon of olive oil.

Lightly season hens with salt and pepper. Place 1 lemon wedge and 1 sprig rosemary in cavity of each hen.

Arrange in a large, heavy roasting pan, and arrange garlic cloves around hens.

Roast in preheated oven for 25 minutes.

3. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees F. In a mixing bowl, whisk together wine, chicken broth, and remaining 2 tablespoons of oil; pour over hens. Continue roasting about 25 minutes longer, or until hens are golden brown and juices run clear. Baste with pan juices every 10 minutes.

4. Transfer hens to a platter, pouring any juices into the roasting pan. Cover hens with aluminum foil to keep warm.

Transfer pan juices and garlic cloves to a medium saucepan and boil until liquids reduce to a sauce consistency, about 6 minutes. Cut hens in half lengthwise and arrange on plates.

Spoon sauce and garlic around hens.

Garnish with rosemary sprigs and serve.

116

Foodies of New England

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Winter 2017

117

Liberating Libations

Drink Cider, Save the World!

W

e live in a world today where we reach toward locally-grown, cultivated, free range, non-GMO, organic, fresh products. We learn more and more as we see companies pumping chemicals and pesticides into our food and drinks to maximize profits; we’re becoming more

aware as a society. Although there are limited options to local products, mainstream grocery stores are starting to get on board building greenhouse systems local to the actual stores. This reduces time, cost, and distance, giving the consumer something

Written by Adam Gerhart

that has been grown without chemicals and pesticides. If we can create local market

Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

dependency, then we all will flourish.

In the liberating libations world, I love to use all natural ingredients and farm to drink processes as much as possible. The best drinks come from freshly muddled or freshly

Adam Gerhart has been bartend-

picked ingredients that can grow right in your backyard. One of the best examples of

ing since he was 17. Growing up

this is Hard Apple Cider.

in upstate New York along the Hudson River, he worked his way up from washing dishes in the restaurant industry and worked in all positions a restaurant has to

spread out across the region. Laws throughout New England are being passed making it easier, more affordable, and more accessible to the farmer/brewer and the consumers. This is such a huge leap in the right direction; we need to take these steps to really support and help our local farms and businesses thrive.

Recently New York state, too, passed a law for local craft breweries, cideries, winer-

offer. Adam feels that learning-by-

ies and distilleries that eases the regulatory requirements to get their licenses and lets

doing is the best training method,

them distribute locally. This creates a local market which, if paid attention to, could

and considers it a very big reason

really broaden into not just a system for liquids; but could work for local farms and mar-

for his success.

kets as well. Big companies will have a hard time adjusting to losing profits, so it won’t

Making a guest’s experience

will allow farmers/brewers easier ways to get a start which then gives us as consumers

memorable and giving them a quality drink is where Adam’s passion lies.

happen easily or overnight. This system, acting like a back door into the local market, more options and access to local, fresh and healthy products.

Now I’m not saying that Hard Cider is healthy or drinking it will make the world a bet-

Adam believes that, if he and the

ter place, but the food and drinks we enjoy would be more enjoyable if they were fresh,

people around him are having fun,

we knew what was in them, and we were supporting local businesses and markets at

it’s not work. He also feels passionate about turning someone’s day around by putting exactly what they want in front of them, and creating that special drink that makes them say, “Wow.”

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New England has a shortage of apples, thus many hard ciders and cideries are

Foodies of New England

the same time. So I guess what I’m trying to say is…save the world, drink more local cider! As always, enjoy responsibly. Cheers!

(See recipes on page 120)

Winter 2017

119

Stout the Fire In a pint glass add ¾ oz Fireball Fill up the glass ¾ of the way with your choice of Hard cider Float Guinness on top

The Cherry Tree Crush Ingredients: 3 dark red bing cherries 3 matchstick pieces of fresh ginger 2 slices of lemon 2oz Bourbon 2oz fresh apple cider Directions: 1. Muddle the ginger cherries and lemon 2. Add ice, bourbon and apple cider and shake vigorously 3. Strain over crushed ice in a rocks glass and top with Downeast Original Blend Unfiltered Hard Cider (2oz) 4. Garnish with two speared cherries and a lemon slice

FlappleJacks Dip pint glass in maple syrup, or caramel, then dip it in cinnamon sugar mix. ( Start with white granulated sugar then add cinnamon to your liking but not too much. Try mixing in a little brown sugar too!)

In a pint glass add ¾ oz Jim Beam Maple bourbon Fill the glass with Downeast Unfiltered Original Blend Hard Cider (garnish with a breakfast sausage…..no im kidding!)

120

Foodies of New England

Winter 2017

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BOURBON FROM THE VERY CENTER OF THE RICKHOUSE & THE HEARTS OF TWO MASTERS Born from the minds of legendary Master Distiller Jimmy Russell and his son, Master Distiller Eddie Russell, Russell’s Reserve marks a new standard in small batch bourbon.

The culmination of over 90 years of combined whiskey making experience, each small batch represents the best this family has to offer.

Hand selected, their experience guarantees yours.

It is after all, “A Bond Made in Bourbon.”

Bourbon Cherry Bing Muddle 3 dark red or “Bing” cherries with one wedge of lemon and three matchstick size fresh ginger slices 2 parts Russell’s Bourbon 2 parts Fresh Apple Cider Shake vigorously and strain over ice, garnish with two speared cherries and a lemon wheel Recipe by Adam Gerhart

www.wildturkeybourbon.com

Russell’s Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. 45% alc./vol. (90 proof). ©2016 Campari America, San Francisco, CA. Please enjoy responsibly.

A Seasonal Favorite Cornish Game Hens with Garlic and Rosemary Recipe on page 116