food&travel Aug issue by food&travel magazine

k i tch e n cu lt u re

f o o d & t r a v e l MAGAZINE

relevant ◆ st ylish ◆ inspiring

august 2010

love coconut celebrating the other king of fruit

l ov e c o c on ut

XJXJXJXJX Singaporean Sensations Best-loved hawker recipes from the island state

XJXJXJXJX Tried & Tested

maori kitchen Taipei, Taiwan august 2010 S$ 4 .0 0 ● R M 8 .0 0 PPS 1621/05/2011 (028578)

Perk Me Up

Japanese curry Sloppy Joes & other easy suppers

XJXJXJXJX

MICA (P) NO: 152/03/2010

city guide

Savoury pumpkin kueh

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inside the

join the great recipe swap & win!

cook in

eat out

14 food & travel picks

70 ABOUT TOWN

Our favourite things this month

15 TABLE TALK

Food News The Meat Specialist, fresh pasteurised noodles, peachy goodness, and bubbly Saturdays

16 KITCHEN ESSENTIALS New, useful and stylish to have

18 PANTRY BASICS

Matching Game Pairing your pasta with the right sauce doesn’t have to be rocket science!

22 WEEKNIGHT EATS

Perk Me Up From stir-fries to Sloppy Joes, easy suppers get a scrummy twist

28 eat well

Foodie Beauty D-I-Y beauty treats straight from your pantry

32 RECIPE FEATURE

Singaporean Sensations Cook up best-loved hawker dishes with cookbook author Wendy Hutton

44 cover feature

Loving Coconut Celebrating the other king of fruit

58 BEGINNER’S CLASS

Savoury Pumpkin Kueh A hearty homemade kueh chockfull of nutritious pumpkin and aromatic mushrooms

62 kitchen smarts

Mix It Up Blitz and blend away with these handy mixers

64 entertaining recipes

Turn to page 28 to find out how to improve your complexion!

When East & West Collide Enjoy an elegant yoshuku meal that combines the best of Japanese and Western cuisines

74 86

Updates from the Singapore dining scene

74 CHIC & CHEERFUL

Lazy Pleasures Ease into the weekend with a leisurely brunch

78 fab bites

Mooncake Delights What’s new and delicious this mid-autumn festival

dine away 82 FOODIE STOPS

Wine and dine around the world

86 TRAVEL FEATURE

Inside The Maori Kitchen Cook, taste and savour New Zealand’s Maori cuisine

96 CITY GUIDE

Taking On Taipei Expect a heady mix of yummy eats, vibrant nightlife and fab shopping

regulars 106 INDEX & Stockists

This issue’s recipes and contacts at your fingertips

promotions & prizes 27 cook it right

Share your best grill recipe and win a Zojirushi Electric Grill Hotplate

41 COOKBOOK GIVEAWAY

108 CLASSIFIEDS

Win the latest edition of Singapore Food, one of Singapore’s most authoritative heritage cookbooks

112 THINGS WE LOVE

61 the great recipe swap

Liquid Sunshine Yuzu honey for a refreshing pick-me-up

Share your favourite recipe and win a Le Creuset French oven & spatula

77 il lido Restaurant & bar dining vouchers Giveaway Win S$50 il Lido Restaurant & Bar dining vouchers

91 Raise a toast!

Win a bottle of Rivera Castel Del Monte Rose 2006

104 SUBSCRIPTION

Subscribe now and win Severin’s Automatic Long Slot Toaster or Fruit Dryer

recipe josephine Soh Styling & art direction Denise R. Lowem Photography calvin tan, flame production studio

107 congratulations! Find out if you’re one of the lucky winners for our June issue’s contests!

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contents

JXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJXJ 6

F&T

weeknight eats

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monday EASY Prep 25 mins Cook 15 mins Serves 2

champuru with bacon and mushrooms

Perk Me Up From stir-fries to Sloppy Joes, easy suppers get a scrummy twist Recipes, styling & photography christopher tan

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weeknight eats Champuru with Bacon & Mushrooms The classic Okinawan stir-fry of bittergourd, tofu and egg, made a little more robust with mushrooms and bacon. Use the small, warty Japanese or Indian bittergourds, which have more flavour than the smoother-skinned Chinese varieties.

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tuesday

250 g firm tofu 1 medium or 2 small bittergourds 3 slices streaky bacon, diced

EASY Prep 25 mins Cook 15 mins Serves 3–4

75 g shimeji mushrooms Salt and pepper, to taste 2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 ) Slice or break tofu into chunks, lay chunks on paper

myanmar-style sour prawn curry

towels and let stand for 15 minutes, to drain away some of their moisture. 2 ) Halve bittergourd lengthwise, scoop out and discard seeds and white pulp. Slice bittergourd diagonally, about 5mm thick. Rub slices with a little salt and set aside for 10 minutes, then rinse and pat dry. 3 ) Fry bacon slowly in a pan over medium heat until browned and much of its fat has rendered, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer bacon to a plate. 4 ) Add tofu to bacon fat in pan and fry, turning pieces occasionally, until very lightly browned and firm, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer tofu to plate. 5 ) Add oil to pan and turn heat to high. Add bittergourd and mushrooms and fry, stirring vigorously, until just tender, about 2 to 3 minutes. Return tofu and bacon to pan, and stir to heat through. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 6 ) Pour eggs into pan and stir until they are just lightly scrambled and soft. Dish up and serve champuru immediately with rice.

Apple, Radish & Feta Couscous Salad

200 g couscous 125 g green radish 1 small red apple 2 Tbsp lemon juice 5 Tbsp finely chopped parsley 50 g oil-marinated feta cheese, cubed 2 Tbsp oil from feta cheese 75 g roasted cashew nuts Salt and pepper, to taste

Rosy, ripe tomatoes give this quick curry a refreshing tanginess and full body, while fish sauce helps to enhance the prawns’ flavour. 10 to 12 large prawns, shelled and de-veined 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 tsp assam (tamarind paste) 150 ml water 3 Tbsp oil 1 purple onion, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tsp chilli powder 5 large ripe tomatoes, diced 1½ Tbsp fish sauce Salt, to taste Garnish: Coriander leaves

1 ) Rinse prawns and pat

4 ) Add chilli powder and

dry, then rub with turmeric and set aside while you prep the other ingredients. 2 ) Knead assam and water together until assam dissolves, then strain assam liquid and discard seeds and fibres. 3 ) Heat oil in a wok over medium-high heat. When hot, add onion and garlic and fry, stirring constantly until softened and lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes.

fry for 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and fish sauce. Cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes or until tomatoes have broken up. Stir in prawns and assam liquid. Cover and cook for 5 to 6 minutes. 5 ) Uncover and cook 1 to 2 minutes more. Prawns should be cooked through and there should be a little thick gravy. Dish up, garnish with coriander and serve hot with rice.

wednesday 

A light vegetarian dish with an appealing contrast of textures. Green radish is commonly braised or simmered in soup, but it is also delicious raw in salads and slaws.

Myanmar-style Sour Prawn Curry

EASY Prep 20 mins Cook 5 mins Serves 2

1 ) Prepare couscous according to packet instructions. Fluff couscous well with a fork and let cool.

2 ) Peel green radish. Finely dice radish and apple, and toss both together with lemon juice.

3 ) Combine couscous with radish, apple, parsley, feta cheese, oil and cashew nuts in a mixing bowl. Fold gently together until thoroughly mixed. Adjust seasoning to taste and serve immediately.

F&T

weeknight eats

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thursday

EASY Prep 10 mins Cook 7 mins Serves 2–3

Japanese Curry Sloppy Joes Japanese curry roux (sold at all supermarkets that stock Japanese ingredients) gives added oomph to sloppy joes, traditional American sandwiches of seasoned minced beef on hamburger buns. 250 g minced beef 2 Tbsp oil ½ onion, finely chopped 1 tsp minced ginger 35 g Japanese curry roux 100 ml water 2 Tbsp ketchup 2 to 3 hamburger buns, split, buttered and toasted 2 tomatoes, sliced 1 to 2 Japanese cucumbers, sliced into long, thin wedges

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1 ) Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. When hot, add onions and ginger and fry, stirring constantly, until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. 2 ) Add minced beef and fry 1 to 2 minutes, until it loses its pinkness. 3 ) Stir in curry roux, water and ketchup and cook, stirring, about 1 to 2 minutes, until mixture thickens. 4 ) To serve, divide tomato slices between hamburger buns and spoon beef on top. Serve with cucumber wedges on the side. ◆

tip: If you’re hankering for the crunch of French fries but not their calories, try this: sprinkle a little vinegar and coarse sea salt on crisp wedges of Japanese cucumber.

Story & recipes Josephine Soh Art direction Denise R. Lowem main image photolibrary images 123rf.com recipe Photography Calvin Tan, Flame Production Studio

cover feature

celebrating the other king of fruit

loving

coconut

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Shelling coconuts on Phi Phi island, Thailand

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cover feature Clockwise from left: Fresh coconuts for sale; Nasi lemak (Malaysian coconut rice); Kueh dadar (rolled coconut pancakes)

Vegetarian Chickpea Curry with Naan Creamy and mild, with a little warmth from ginger and cumin, this comforting dish is a breeze to make and lovely on cold, rainy nights. 2 cans chickpeas, reserve liquid from both cans 1 to 2 Tbsp oil 1 medium red onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 thumb-length ginger, minced 3 cloves 1 stalk curry leaves

½ tsp cinnamon powder ½ tsp cumin powder 1 tsp turmeric powder 1 Tbsp sugar ½ cube vegetable stock, crushed 100 ml coconut cream Frozen naan, toasted according to packet instructions

1 ) Heat oil in a pan and fry onions until soft and translucent. Add garlic and ginger and fry, about 1 minute. Stir in cloves, curry leaves, cinnamon, cumin and turmeric, and fry, then add sugar. 2 ) Add reserved chickpea liquid, vegetable stock cube and chickpeas. Cook over medium-high heat for 20 minutes. Add coconut cream, stir well and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes before removing from heat. Garnish with chopped coriander and serve immediately with naan.

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Moderate Prep 5 mins Cook 40 mins Serves 4–6

aybe it’s an Asian thing, this collective love that many of us here have for sweet, rich Nonya kuehs. Munching on those ambrosial treats delivers that familiar, sweet taste of home and the kind of happiness akin to the first bowl of laksa after a pasta-loaded Roman holiday. What’s the link between the two anyway? The answer is coconut. This humble fruit forms the backbone of many rich, creamy Asian dishes that we’ve come to love. Think coconut-drenched chendol, spicy curries, luscious laksas, scrumptious kueh kuehs and good ol’ nasi lemak… The list goes on. Few drinks are as gloriously refreshing as its cool nectar that sings through the senses from

the very first sip. It is the perfect salve for our island’s best spicy dishes. Call it a cheap thrill if you wish, but I get a kick whenever I find tender (and not rock hard) flesh within. Plus, at about a dollar each, fresh coconuts are a wonderfully cheap source of healthy refreshment on hot days. When I crave something deliciously naughty, desserts laced with fragrant coconut milk do the trick. And when a little alcohol is what I need, fresh coconut juice laced with Malibu rum never fails to take me away. ➤

Life’s too short to count calories anyway. 46

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cover feature Beef Rendang What’s a Singaporean meal without rendang? Bite into tender beef cubes cloaked in a deliciously thick and spicy gravy that’s perfect with steamed rice or crusty bread. 600 g beef rump, cubed 1 cup grated coconut 350 to 400 ml coconut milk ½ Tbsp salt 2 Tbsp chilli powder 1 Tbsp coriander powder ½ tsp cumin powder Oil, for frying

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1 ) Prepare kerisik. Dry-fry the grated coconut over low heat until brown and fragrant. Pound finely and set aside. 2 ) Prepare spice paste. Grind the spices to a paste, then fry in hot oil until aromatic, about 2 to 3 minutes. 3 ) Add coconut milk, salt and powdered spices. Stir to mix well then add beef and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for about 1½ hours, stirring occasionally. When gravy is thick, add kerisik and simmer, stirring occasionally until gravy is dry. Serve immediately.

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Spice paste: 2 stalks lemongrass, bottom stem only 4 slices ginger, each 1-cm thick 4 slices lengkuas, each 2-cm thick 3 cloves garlic 1 medium red onion

A cross-section look at the coconut

Advanced Prep 10 mins Cook 1 hr 45 mins Serves 4–6

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a fruit for all seasons Associated with kampongs and tropical island holidays, coconuts are more than just hard husks filled with water. It is a staple for village life and an extremely useful tree that gives sustenance. Beyond the kitchen, coconuts serve as important structural, homeopathic and horticultural ingredients. They can also be a whole lot of fun — call it a hero in husk clothing, if you like. A member of the palm family, the coconut, cocos nucifera, is believed to originate in South Asia (although others say, South America). Light, buoyant and highly tolerant of salinity, the tree thrives on sandy soil and in warm areas with abundant sunlight and rainfall. Helped by marine currents, it has spread across much of the tropics and is now grown in more than 80 countries around the world, with the Philippines, Indonesia and Thailand ranked as the top three coconut producing countries in Asia. Though Singapore enjoys a tropical climate ideal for growing coconuts, the high prices of real estate here make it unviable to devote much land to growing them. A coconut offers both water and food. In wartime Singapore, coconut was what conscripted soldiers lived on to supplement their miserable diet. Sweet and clear as spring water, coconut water is fat-free and a rich source of potassium, magnesium, calcium, sodium and sugar. With a similar electrolyte profile to human blood plasma, it is used in field hospitals for emergency plasma transfusions.

With pinnate leaves (leaves borne on either side of a centre stalk) that extend 4 to 6 m long, the coconut tree can grow as high as 30 m within five to seven years, and can bear about 60 to 75 coconuts per year. Botanically, the coconut is not a true nut but a drupe — a fleshy fruit with a single seed. It consists of three layers, namely exocarp, mesocarp and endocarp. The brown, shelled coconut that we usually see at the markets is the kernel, the husk having been removed prior to shipping. The husk is made up of the exocarp and mesocarp. The endocarp (the inner shell and also the hardest part) is where you can find three dark indentations (or eyes) at one end. In fact, it is these three eyes that lend the coconut a face-like appearance, which prompted the Portuguese explorers who first brought them to Europe to name it “coco”, the name of a witch from Portuguese folklore. The English later named it coconut, after the 13th century name “nux indica” (meaning “Indian nut”) given by Marco Polo. When coconut is left to germinate, the root of the seed within its inner shell pushes out through the softest of the three eyes to place its roots outside. The layer that adheres to the inside of the inner shell is the testa, which holds the white, fleshy, mineral-rich coconut meat (edible endosperm) that we eat. Depending on size, a coconut contains 300ml to 1 L of coconut water, also known as liquid endosperm. Exocarp (outermost shell)

Endocarp (inner shell)

Testa (seed coat) Mesocarp (coir — the middle fibrous covering)

Edible endosperm (Coconut flesh)

Though traditional Chinese medicine discourages the consumption of coconut water during the early stages of pregnancy, expectant Asian mothers take it in the later stages to relieve constipation and heartburn. Indian

liquid endosperm (Coconut water)

families also believe that doing so will give the baby good skin and thick, dark hair. When suffering from fever, stomach upset, headache or chickenpox, coconut and barley water are often the drinks of choice to soothe all ills. ➤ F&T

cover feature

cook’s guide to the coconut Can’t tell your coconut cream from cream of coconut? Here’s a little help to get you started:

How it’s done?

Coconut milk is extracted by mixing grated coconut with half cup of water and then squeezing the wet coconut shreds. Add less water if you prefer a thicker milk and more if you prefer it thinner. The first squeeze is known as “first milk” or “first santan” and as a rule, should only be added towards the end of cooking, e.g. to finish curries. It will curdle if added earlier and allowed to boil. Second santan, which is thinner and made by extracting the pressed coconut with more water, is less likely to curdle.

The solution…

To avoid the problem of curdled or split coconut milk, experienced cooks will know to “timboh” (which means to stir continually with a lift and turn motion) until the milk boils, then allow the pot contents to simmer at a low heat until cooked.

What’s the difference? Cream of coconut is different from coconut cream. The former is used to sweeten cocktails and drinks and is made by boiling coconut milk with lots of sugar. Coconut cream, on the other hand, is what rises to the surface when coconut milk is allowed to settle. For recipes that call for coconut cream, simply scoop that thick layer off the surface and use.

Coconut Martini with Malibu Rum Refreshing and light, this tropical-inspired cocktail is perfect for chasing away post-vacation blues. 1 cup fresh coconut water 1 shot of Malibu rum ¼ cup tender coconut flesh

1 ) Shake the coconut water, rum and vodka over ice in a cocktail shaker.

2 ) Strain into chilled martini glasses and top with fresh coconut flesh. Serve immediately.

Prolonging shelf-life

Hmm… is this good?

When choosing fresh coconuts, go for those that are heavy and slosh with water when shaken. Avoid those with damp or leaky “eyes”. For convenience, buy husked ones that have been machine-scored around their equator. These require nothing more than a gentle slice along the revealed flesh with a butter knife.

F&T

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Freshly grated coconut does not keep well, even in the refrigerator. Freeze them instead and use as needed. To extend the shelf life of fresh coconut milk or shreds, add a little salt and stir through.

Easy Prep 5 mins Makes 2 martini glasses

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cover feature

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Advanced Prep 20 mins Cook 20 mins Makes About 12

Kueh Tutu Little steamed cakes filled with sweetened coconut, these remind us of bygone days spent trawling the hot and crowded pasar malams. It’s hard to stop at one! 2 cups rice flour ¾ tsp salt 1 tsp fine sugar 150 ml hot water Pandan leaves, cut into squares Sweet coconut filling: ½ cup grated, skinless coconut ½ cup brown sugar, grated

1 ) Prepare the coconut filling. Heat a

➤

A Cook’s essential Over in Bali, coconut water makes a surprising contribution to the island’s famous dish of babi guling. Roasted over fire fuelled by coconut husks among other things, the pig is also regularly basted with coconut water to keep it moist and to lend the meat a unique aroma. Then there is coconut milk. Wonderfully creamy, with a floral, nutty fragrance, coconut milk lends an unmistakable depth and richness to dishes that ordinary cow’s milk and cream simply can’t. What’s more,

The tender flesh from young ones are added to lend sweetness to savoury dishes like tom yum soup while the flesh of mature coconuts, thicker and harder, are more commonly used for sweet dishes, shredded and showered on Asian kuehs or combined with water to make coconut milk. Kerisik is what becomes of grated coconut after it has been toasted to a golden glory. Pounding it before adding to rendangs and curries helps release the aromatic oils. Besides the sweet, clear juice that we are familiar with, there is also palm

Without coconut milk, favourites like pandan chiffon, kaya, kuehs and curries wouldn’t be as appealing. citrus juices and ginger can be mixed in without the milk curdling, unlike dairy. And as much as I love coconut milk on its own, heated briefly with a little salt as a last minute sauce, I love it even more when paired with perfect bedfellows like pandan, gula melaka (palm sugar) and aromatic Asian spices. Age matters when it comes to coconuts. A young coconut and a mature, ripe one are two very different foods.

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toddy, an alcoholic beverage drunk in some parts of Asia and Africa. Made by fermenting the sap derived from cutting the flowers of the coconut tree, it is sour and acidic, and an acquired taste for most. But even more of an acquired taste (for the pocket, that is) is the heart of palm. A delicacy, it is the star ingredient of a dish known as Millionaire’s Salad and rightly so, since harvesting the heart kills the entire tree! ➤

pan over medium heat and melt the brown sugar. Then stir in the grated coconut and cook until the mixture is fairly dry. Set aside. 2) Next, dry roast rice flour with some pandan leaves for 1 minute. Remove from heat and leave to cool. 3 ) Mix salt and sugar in the hot water and sprinkle over the roasted rice flour. 4 ) Using a fork (as the mixture will be too hot to handle at this point), combine the liquid and flour until the mixture is cool enough to touch. Sieve the grainy mixture to get a fine, sandy texture. 5 ) Lightly grease a kueh tutu mould. Fill half the container with the flour. Top with 1 tsp sweet coconut filling and cover with more flour. Place a small piece of pandan leaf over it and press with a square of muslin cloth. Knock to release the kueh from the mould onto the cloth. Repeat this step until the remaining flour and coconut filling have been used up. 6 ) Wipe the steamer surface dry and steam with the cloth at the base of the kueh, about 10 minutes. Remove from the steamer and serve.

kueh tutu

We found these kueh tutu moulds from Sun Lik Trading (see stockists).

note:

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cover feature Winged Bean & Tempeh Salad with Lime & Coconut Dressing Crunchy, wholesome and hardy enough to withstand hours, this delicious Asian salad makes an excellent party dish! 250 g winged beans, washed and trimmed 200 g tempeh, sliced thinly into matchsticks 2 shallots, chopped 1 clove garlic, chopped ½ red chilli, sliced thinly 3 Tbsp water 2 Tbsp sugar

Pinch of salt Oil, for frying 2 Tbsp roasted cashews 1 tsp chopped red chillies, for garnish Dressing: 50 ml coconut milk ½ Tbsp fish sauce ½ Tbsp lime juice ½ tsp sugar

1 ) Briefly cook the winged beans in boiling water until

How to crack a mature coconut

1 First, look for the three “eyes” at the stalk end of the

coconut kernel. Poke each eye with a sharp object (a skewer works best). One of the three eyes will give way. 2 Drive the sharp object deeper to dislodge the small bit of shell in that eye, and allow the coconut water to drip into a bowl. 3 Holding the middle of the coconut in the centre of your palm, hit the coconut a few times around the centre with the blunt side of a knife, turning the coconut in your hand until it cracks along a natural seam. With a few more knocks, the coconut will eventually crack into half. 4 To remove the hard white flesh from the shell, insert a butter knife or screwdriver between the meat and the shell and pry at an angle. The coconut meat will detach from the shell. 5 If you’re making coconut ribbons, leave the brown skin on the meat for a prettier effect. Otherwise, remove the skin with a vegetable peeler.

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Moderate Prep 10 mins Cook 15 mins Serves 4 – 6 as a side dish

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whole coconuts are readily available, but as with durians, getting to the goodness within isn’t quite so easy. Here’s a simple guide to opening one:

they turn darker green but are still crisp, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat and set aside to cool before chilling in the fridge. 2 ) Prepare the dressing. Gently heat up the dressing ingredients in a pot and set aside to cool before storing in the fridge until ready to use. 3 ) Heat a little oil in a pan and fry the tempeh sticks until crisp and golden. Set aside. 4 ) In the same oil, fry the onions until translucent, then add garlic and chilli and stir-fry. Add water and sugar and keep frying until the sauce is a little sticky. Then throw in tempeh sticks and toss to coat well in the sticky sauce. 5 ) In a bowl, toss the winged beans and cashews with the prepared dressing, then garnish with fried tempeh, give it a final toss, sprinkle with chopped red chillies and serve immediately.

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more than just food Besides being used as food wrappers, coconut leaves are also used as thatching material for roofs, walls and floor mats and can be woven into baskets or tied together to form a broom. The mid-rib of the coconut leaf also serves as a cooking skewer. Straight, strong and salt-resistant, trunks of mature coconut trees are used to build small bridges, houses and furniture, while coir, the fibre from the coconut husk, is used in the manufacture of rope, brushes, mattresses and sacks, and as potting compost. All said and learnt, perhaps the best showcase of coconut’s versatility and viability as an export can be seen in the Philippines’ famous Coconut Palace (now a museum), commissioned by former First Lady Imelda Marcos for Pope John Paul II’s visit in 1981. From the roots to its trunk, bark, fruit, flower and shell, the coconut element echoes through the palace’s design and ornamentation, which include highlights such as a 101-coconut shell chandelier, plus a dining table made of 40,000 inlaid tiny coconut shells. From beaches through to palace grounds, the fruit also has a place in Asian rituals, especially in Hindu traditions. The beginning of any new activity is often initiated by the breaking of a coconut to ensure blessings of the gods, and offerings of coconuts are usually made during worship. In some parts of India, coconut flowers must be present during a marriage ceremony and are inserted into a barrel of rice and placed within sight of the ceremony. Fishermen are known to throw coconuts into the rivers and seas in the hopes of having a bountiful catch. Not just useful, coconuts are also fun. Whole husks are sometimes transformed into decorative “faces” while dried shells can be turned into repositories for water and food or crafted into accessories like buttons to adorn Hawaiian shirts and handbags. Banged together, half shells simulate the sound of horse’s hoof beats in theatre Foley sound effects, while in China and Vietnam, they are used to make musical instruments like the yehu and dàn gáo.

Clockwise from top: Weaving a ketupat case with coconut leaves; Bowl and chopsticks made of coconut shell; Not your usual Thai foot massage — this requires walking on coconut shells; A sturdy basket woven from coconut leaves; Buttons made from coconut shell

Without a doubt, the humble coconut palm is indeed the tree of life, giving nourishment, shelter, comfort and importantly, joy. ◆ F&T

OCEAN FRESH

birthday treats

Experience the buzz and energy of Perth’s wellloved port city at the new Fremantle Seafood Market. Dine alfresco and enjoy charming views of the bustling riverfront as you feast on ocean-fresh seafood. The restaurant imports several unique fish species like tarakii and alfonsino, so taste them fresh on the sashimi plate (from S$25 for three fish selections). Other signature items include the seafood platter (from S$48), chilled oysters (from S$11 for three) and the smoked fish plate (from S$15 for three fish selections). There is also a takeaway counter offering battered seafood selections such as fish and chips as well as a retail section stocked with fresh, smoked and marinated seafood. ◆ #01-05/06 Clarke Quay, 3E River Valley Road. Tel: 65/6337-1838

Words Joyceline Tully & Angeleigh Khoo

seafood feast

Princess Terrace’s annual Original Seafood Penang Fair returns from 5 to 15 August. Get ready for a smorgasbord of freshly prepared seafood including wok-fried sea snails, sautéed brown bamboo clams and the ever-popular grilled stingray with sambal chilli, along with perennial favourites like nasi ulam and Penang laksa. There will also be a live station serving hot and crispy ban chang kueh (peanut pancake) and soft apong balik (banana pancake), and a dessert station loaded with sweet treats such as homemade Nonya kueh. The buffet is priced at S$45 per person on weekdays and S$48 on weekends and public holidays. ◆ Level 1 Copthorne King’s Hotel, 403 Havelock Road. Tel: 65/6318-3168

World Cuisine

pure pleasures

1-Caramel celebrates its first birthday with a new and expanded menu of sweet treats. These include the Maltesers cheesecake (S$8.90), deliciously dense with a coffee crumb base, Horlicks marbling and luscious chocolate ganache; and the frozen “deconstructed” strawberry shortcake (S$14), a contemporary take on the patisserie’s bestselling strawberry shortcake. The popularity of its red miso soufflé has also brought about an expansion of its soufflé menu to include flavours such as hazelnut praline and passion fruit (all S$14). If you can’t decide, go for the 1-Caramel ‘Assiette’ (S$24), a selection of five petite desserts designed for sharing. ◆ #01-01A The Luxe, 6 Handy Road. Tel: 65/6338-3282

Take your taste buds on a voyage of discovery at the National Geographic Café, where the selection of pinchos (the Basque equivalent of tapas) by accomplished chef Miguel Espinosa takes centre stage. Take your pick from a spread that includes classic Spanish tortilla (S$6), prawn cocktail (S$7.50) and meaty dishes such as mini beef burgers with caramelised onion and chips (S$9). The sweet-toothed will be pleased with the dessert menu, which includes mini profiteroles (S$10) and English-style waffles (S$7). A good selection of cheese and charcuterie platters is also available. ◆ #01-19 VivoCity, 1 Harbourfront Walk. Tel: 65/6376-9557

Cocoa purists will enjoy the truffles at Truffs, a chocolate atelier set up by Teng Ei Liang. Don’t expect fanciful designs or artificial flavours from this local chocolatier, who picked up the traditional art of chocolate making from Le Cordon Bleu in London. He believes that chocolate is best enjoyed in its purest form so what you get are truffles in four cocoa percentages (from S$25 for a box of nine), each featuring a luscious ganache centre encased within a thin cocoa-powdered crust. The 70 percent Honduras dark chocolate is divine with subtle floral notes and the acidulous 65 percent sugarless dark chocolate, made with the sugar substitute maltitol, is suitable for diabetics. The moist and rich chocolate cake (from S$85 for 1.5kg) is delicious too but you’ll have to place an order three days in advance. ◆ 179A Telok Ayer Street. Tel: 65/9088-2736

break fast

From 11 August to 9 September, Concorde Hotel Singapore is joining forces with Indonesian celebrity chef William Wongso to present a buka puasa Ramadan buffet dinner themed “Flavours of Indonesia”. Guests get to savour Chef Wongso’s signature dishes including the very toothsome western Sumatra rendang, saté Padang (veal cheek satay), east Java oxtail soup and fried soft bone milk fish with bandeng pesto. The sweet selection is equally tempting and features favourites like chendol and durian with sticky rice. Many of the dishes featured are true blue Indonesian gems rarely found in Singapore, so don’t miss this delicious opportunity. The buffet is served poolside between 6.30 to 9.30pm and is priced from S$42 per person on weekdays. ◆ Concorde Hotel, 100 Orchard Road. Tel: 65/6733-8855

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about town

eat out, eat right

Coffee Connoisseur

If you are serious about your coffee, head down to Papa Palheta, a microbrewery and bean retail store that works with local coffee brokers to bring in raw beans from around the world. The beans are roasted on-site and available for sampling — just tell the friendly baristas how you like your coffee — or let them guide you through the process of mixing and matching beans and preparation method. Popular single origin blends to try include the naturally sweet Guatemala (S$13.50 for 250g) and the floral Ethiopian Sidamo (S$13.50 for 250g). You will not be charged for the sample drinks, but do leave a tip! ◆ 140 Bukit Timah Road. Tel: 65/9799-0420

swedish bites

Located at the corner of Arab Street and Beach Road, Fika serves up Swedish halal food and is just the place for a meatball fix if you’re boutique-hopping at nearby Haji Lane. On the menu are Swedish favourites like Swedish meatballs (S$16.90) and meatball melt (S$16.90), an openfaced sandwich topped with meatballs, melted cheddar and mayonnaise. There is also a good selection of salads such as smoked salmon (S$14.90) and Långedrag (S$14.90), which features mixed greens, shrimps, hardboiled eggs and Swedish roe. If you’re after a light bite, sweet treats like Swedish pancakes (S$9.90) and Swedish lingonberry cheesecake (S$7.90) should hit the spot. ◆ 257 Beach Road. Tel: 65/6396-9096

Dessert lovers will have a field day at SweetSpot, a haven for European-inspired pastries at Marina Bay Sands. The signature Chocolate “Paradigm” (S$9.10) is a chocoholic’s delight that features chocolate sabayon mousse, cacao sable, chocolate pudding, chocolate joconde, milk chocolate whipped ganache and chocolate glaze. Other favourites include the macarons (S$2.50 each); nougat (S$8.80), a salty sweet pastry with nougat glace, candied peanuts and salted caramel mousse; and the milk chocolate passion fruit tart (S$6). You should be warned that there are no seats, only chic standing tables, so prepare to stand and savour. ◆ Lobby Level, Marina Bay Sands Hotel Tower 3, 10 Bayfront Avenue. Tel: 65/6688-8588

SWEET CREATIONS

HOTPOT REVOLUTION

Traditional hotpot gets a facelift at Kichi Kichi, a new allyou-can-eat express hotpot bar equipped with a rotary conveyor belt for diners to select their food without getting up from their seats. Pick from seven wholesome soups, including tom yum and the signature mushroom broth, and cook away with over 60 selections of seafood, meats, dumplings and ever-changing chef’s specials such as squid stuffed with minced meat. Look out for the “secret recipes” cruising the conveyor belt — these contain instructions for combining various ingredients to create a unique twist to familiar Asian dishes. The buffet starts at S$19.90 for weekday lunches. ◆ #05-32 Podium Block, Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard Road. Tel: 65/9170-1146

You don’t have to eat in to eat healthily, at least not with Marina Mandarin Singapore’s new healthy menu offerings. Created with the help of renowned nutritionist Bibi Chia, the items available at all four dining outlets address four common health concerns in Singapore — weight management, hypertension, diabetes and hypercholesterolemia. For example, the grilled lamb set meal (S$36) at Peach Blossoms is a low-carbohydrate choice suitable for diabetics, while those suffering from hypertension will benefit from the salmon tataki set meal (S$32) at AquaMarine, which comes with two servings of vegetables, reduced sodium and over 140 percent of an average person’s vitamin C needs. ◆ Marina Mandarin Singapore, Marina Square, 6 Raffles Boulevard. Tel: 65/6845-1111

Pasta With Style True to its name, Pasta Stylo serves up its food amidst trendy waiters and mannequins decked out in accessories made from pasta. But don’t let that distract you from its inspired menu, where the chef has creatively fused global influences into his pasta dishes. The satay chicken fettuccini (S$10.80) presents skewers of chicken satay with fettuccini in a coriander and turmeric sauce, while the North Indian chicken curry ravioli (S$15.80) features a mild, aromatic yoghurt-based curry. More traditional offerings like pasta Milano (S$13.80), linguini with roasted meatballs, and main courses such as fish and chips (S$13.80) will appeal to the less adventurous. ◆ #02-35/6 City Square Mall, 180 Kitchener Road. Tel: 65/6509-8943

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about town

city guide

words joyce huang main image photolibrary

AoBa Originally known as Chin Yeh before a rebranding five years back, AoBa restaurants have been around for over 40 years. They continue to dish out top-notch traditional Taiwanese cuisine but now serve it with modern flair and in an environment of quiet luxury. Musttry dishes include braised pork with soy sauce, three-cup chicken and Taiwanese soup noodles. G Floor, No.39, Section 1, Fusing South Road, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/8772-1109; www.aoba.com.tw Yong Kang Beef Noodle

taipei taking on

There is a palpable energy in the capital city of Taiwan, drawing you into its heady mix of yummy eats, vibrant nightlife and fabulous shopping

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Clockwise from top: AoBa’s Taiwanese soup noodles, deepfried squid balls and Taiwanese spring rolls

t was our first night in Taipei and we had just finished a marathon shopping frenzy along Shilin Night Market. Our hands were laden with purchases, our tummies filled with yummy street food. It was close to midnight and we hadn’t had a break since touching down and checking into our hotel that morning. But nothing was going to stop us — there was no time to be tired. So we flagged a cab and headed to a club for drinks with as much gusto as we did dishing out dough at the night market. It is hard to explain and indeed, probably best to experience it up close and personal, but it is as if the air of Taipei is spiked with caffeine. There is a palpable energy in this capital city of Taiwan and it is highly addictive. Located in the north of Taiwan, Taipei is the country’s largest city and boasts a population of over 2.6 million. As the political, economic and cultural centre, Taipei keeps tourists busy with a wide variety of cultural and historic attractions, a cosmopolitan and burgeoning culinary scene, and lots of shopping (some call the city “the emporium without end”). With a clean, efficient and highly accessible subway system, travelling around Taipei is easy, safe and fast — a quality you’ll appreciate highly as you check off your endless Taipei “to-do” list.

FAB EATS One thing is for sure during any trip to Taipei — you’ll never go hungry. In fact, visitors often eat their way through their vacations, feasting on a plethora of Taiwanese xiao chi. “Xiao chi” literally means small eats in Mandarin, and refers to Taiwanese snacks or finger food. The best way to sample xiao chi is to walk down the city’s night markets where you can take your pick from stinky tofu, Taiwanese sausages, scallion pancakes, grilled squid, oyster vermicelli, mango shaved ice, bubble tea and much more. Street food aside, Taipei offers plenty of restaurants to suit your dining tastes.

Yong He Dou Jiang

Eating beef noodles in Taipei is a must and many head to this stall for its signature braised beef noodles. The stall is ironically located, not in, but two blocks away from Yong Kang Street. The liberal use of spices and addition of broad-bean chilli sauce (dou ban jiang) make for a flavourful broth. There’s also a clear-broth stewed beef noodles if you are not partial to spicy soup base. 17, Lane 31, Section 2, Jingshan South Road, Da-an District, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/2351-1051

Formosa Chang Taiwan’s most common dish is perhaps its simplest. “Lu rou fan” is basically a dish of ground pork, stewed in soy sauce and served over a bowl of white rice. You can find this at almost any street corner in the city and at the many night markets. Formosa Chang is a reputable chain of restaurants specialising in this Taiwanese staple, and other simple but hearty favourites like stewed pig trotters and beef flank. www.fmsc.com.tw

Start your day as the Taiwanese do and indulge in some warm soy milk and you tiao (Chinese crullers or dough fritters) — dip it in your soy milk like you would an Oreo cookie in milk. Yong He Dou Jiang is popular with the breakfast crowd, who’ll also order up the popular rice balls — shredded pork and pickled daikon wrapped with glutinous rice. No.102, Section 2, Fuxing South Road. Tel: 886-2/2703-5051

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city guide NIGHT LIFE The Taiwanese don’t sleep. Locals stay awake till wee hours of the night, hanging out at night markets, pubs and bars to help keep sleep at bay.

Raohe Night Market Shilin might be the city’s most famous night market, but it is Raohe that boasts the title of oldest night market in Taipei. Stretching from the decorated archway at the entrance on Section Four of Ba De Road (the front side of Ci You Temple) to the other archway on the other end at Ta You Road, the 600-m long Raohe Street is a treasure of Taiwanese snacks: oyster vermicelli, spare ribs stewed in herbal soup, pepper meat buns, duck meat, stinky tofu and much more. Raohe Street, near Songshan Railway station. Tel: 886-2/2763-5733; www.raohe.com.tw

Room18 This nightclub is a favourite among the young and good-looking crowd who head there for guest DJs and live performers. It is only open on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights,

but will carry you through to 5am the following morning. B1, No. 88 Songren Road, Xinyi District, Taipei City Tel: 886-2/2345-2778; www.room18.com.tw

Brown Sugar In Taipei, jazz is synonymous with Brown Sugar. This restaurant and bar has a reputation for excellent live music and good food; it even boasts an extensive wine menu and cigar collection. Brown Sugar is packed even on weekdays; Salsa Night on Sundays is also very popular. No. 101, Songren Road, Xinyi District, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/8780-1110; www.brownsugarlive.com

English language publications in the city. This bookstore chain focuses on art and humanities-related books and is a haven for magazine-lovers. No. 245, Section 1, Dunhua South Road, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/2775-5977; www.eslite.com

Eslite 24 hour bookstore If you’re looking for a quieter night out, the Dunhua branch of bookstore Eslite stays open 24 hours a day, and stocks the largest selections of

Clockwise from top right: Soak up some knowledge in Eslite 24 Hour Bookstore at Dunhua South Road; Shop to your heart’s content at Raohe Night Market; Then grab a bite to refuel

Facade of Eslite Mall at Xinyi

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city guide ATTRACTIONS Taipei offers an endless list of attractions that runs the gamut from traditional culture and heritage spots to modern galleries and museums. Here are three to start you off on your city tour:

Lung Shan Temple One of Taiwan’s oldest and largest temples, Lung Shan Temple was built in 1783 and is where countless generations of Taipei citizens have come to pray and seek guidance. A mixture of Buddhist, Taoist and folk deities are worshipped here, but many foreigners visit to appreciate the traditional Chinese temple architecture of bronze dragon pillars, skillful wood carvings and lively paintings instead. No. 211, Guangzhou Street, Wanhua District, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/2302-5162

National Palace Museum It is impossible to go through National Palace Museum’s permanent collection of close to 677,700 pieces of ancient Chinese artefacts and artworks in a day but it is definitely worth a try. These priceless art treasures span over 8,000 years of Chinese history, from the Neolithic age to the late Qing dynasty. No.221, Section 2, Zhishan Road, Shilin District, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/2881-2021; www.npm.gov.tw

Red House Theatre Built in 1908 during Japanese rule, the Red House Theatre was originally a market building but was used as a theatre from 1945 onwards. It still regularly hosts live performances today. An exhibition on the ground floor displays its history. Visit on weekends when the north square plays host to a market for budding artists and designers to showcase and sell their craft. At night, the restaurants and bars that line the area facing the south square up the area’s hip quotient. No.10, Chengdu Road, Wanhua District, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/2311-9380; www.redhouse.org.tw

Wufenpu Garment Wholesale Area Located opposite Songshan train station in Xinyi District, the eastern part of Taipei City, Wufenpu Garment Wholesale Area is where your tourist dollar will travel far. This is a renowned wholesalers’ district stuffed to the brim with quality inexpensive clothing and related accessories. Although the market caters mainly to wholesalers, individual shoppers throng the streets, sniffing out bargains. A tip for the serious shopper: buying in bulk generally yields a discount.

Taipei Zhongshan Metro Shopping Mall An extensive underground shopping mall stretching from Taipei Main Station in the south to Shuanglian Station in the north, this is the first underground mall in Taipei. It houses over 180 different stores selling all manner of items, from electronics and handmade toys to Cuban cigars and imported coffee.

Guang Hua Digital Plaza If you are looking for a new laptop, digital camera or DVDs of the latest Taiwanese drama serial, head to this mecca of all things to do with technology and electronics. What was initially a book market started housing electronics retailers after the original Guang Hua Market was moved. The first five floors of the building are dedicated to electronic products while some of the bookstores that made Guang Hua famous

remain on the sixth storey. 77 Jinshan North Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/2341-2202

Shin Kong Mitsukoshi A collaboration between the Shin Kong Group (a large Taiwan conglomerate) and Mitsukoshi, this international department store chain is the place to splash out on designer togs. Branches are scattered across Taipei city, but the biggest is at Xinyi District. 11 Songshou Road, Xinyi District, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/8780-1000 or 886-2/8780-5959

Dihua Street To get a feel of Taipei City’s past, take a stroll through this atmospheric street. During mid19th century, goods from China and all over the world arrived by ship at the nearby Dadaocheng wharf and were traded on Dihua Street. The neo-baroque facades of that era still remain on many of the shophouses. Today, Dihua Street houses scores of shops selling a variety of traditional goods such as Chinese medicines and herbs, temple icons and incense, spices and dried food, and bamboo and wooden crafts. The most fascinating time to come here is in the weeks leading up to the Lunar New Year, when shops showcase their New Year goodies. Look out for the oldest shop on the block, Lin Fu Zhen, which dates back more than 150 years and specialises in imported dried goods such as sea cucumber, mullet roe and scallop.

Praying for guidance at Lung Shan Temple

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SHOPPING It’s almost as if the city of Taipei will not stand for it if tourists visited and not shop. From frenzied night markets to huge shopping malls; dedicated shopping districts to little-known alleyways lined with boutique shops selling knick-knacks, shopping in Taipei boggles the mind (and your wallet) with its stunning variety.

National Palace Museum

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city guide

MUST visit: Taipei 101

Stays

This landmark skyscraper may no longer be the world’s tallest building but it has become an icon of modern Taiwan ever since its opening. The building stands at 509.2m and architecturally, symbolises the evolution of technology and Asian tradition. Its most striking feature is the series of eight segments resembling an Asian pagoda. The observatories, located on the 89th and 91st floors, offer breathtaking views of the city. Shopaholics will appreciate the adjoining mall where hundreds of fashionable stores, restaurants and clubs await. No. 7, Section 5, Xinyi Road, Xinyi District, Taipei City. Tel: 886-2/8101-8898

There’s no shortage of stylish sleeps around the city, although it is wise to pick one near a subway station.

Hotel QUOTE Within the

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growing number of boutique hotels in Taipei, Hotel QUOTE stands out with its combination of ideal location, stylishly minimalist design, and warm and thoughtful service. Guests will appreciate the in-room Nespresso coffee machine to fight off jetlag, the complimentary rental of Osim massage products to counter a long day of shopping, access to a 24-hour lounge serving snacks and drinks, and free wireless internet access and local calls. 333 NanJing East Road, Section 3, Songshan District, Taipei City, Taiwan 105. Tel: 886-2/2175-5588; www.hotel-quote.com

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getting there

Clockwise from right: Shangri-La Far Eastern Plaza Hotel; The bustling night scene of Ximending Street; The stunning view from Shangri-La’s rooftop pool

Les Suites Taipei ChingCheng Another favourite located

Shangri-La Far Eastern Plaza Hotel If you have cash

smack in the middle of Taipei's main business and financial centre yet housed within its own peaceful oasis garden. Eighty-four rooms spread across five room categories, each featuring a blend of classic European décor and furnishing, distinctive contemporary art and modern technology. The thoughtful complimentary nibbles and drinks at Les Lounge café on the ground floor will definitely earn brownie points. 12 Ching Cheng Street, Taipei 105. Tel: 886-2/8712-7688; www.hotelsuitesching-cheng.com

to splash, check into Shangri-La Far Eastern Plaza Hotel, the tallest hotel in the city. Its 420 exquisitely appointed luxury guest rooms occupy the upper floors of the Taipei Metro Complex, from the 43rd storey onwards. As expected, all rooms have engaging views of the Taipei skyline, but the best view, no doubt, is to be found from the hotel’s spectacular rooftop pool. 201 Section 2, Tun Hwa South Road, Taipei City, Taiwan 106. Tel: 886-2/2378-8888; www.shangri-la.com ◆

Both China Airlines and EVA Air fly direct from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur to Taipei. Additionally, Singapore Airlines and Jetstar fly direct from Singapore, while Malaysia Airlines and Air Asia fly direct from Kuala Lumpur.

Currency

NT$100 = S$4.30/

RM10/US$3.10

Visa No visa is required for Singaporeans and Malaysians who stay in Taiwan for less than 30 days. Time zone

Taipei, Singapore and Malaysia share the same time zone, GMT +8

Calling code

Taiwan’s country code is (+886); Taipei’s area code is (2)

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