Riding in Cars with Turistas: My Road Trip through Málaga and Seville, Spain

from Food Wine Travel Magazine, The Road Trips Issue

Food Wine Travel Magazine, The Road Trips Issue

The scent of ocean air mixed with fresh asphalt woke me from my slumber. The sound of construction filled my ears as I opened my eyes. Shipyards and industrious workers whizzed past our car. The sea vanished behind us as we turned down an alley that appeared out of nowhere. “What a strange first impression of Málaga,” I thought to myself. “Let’s see what this port city has to offer.”

Exploring Malaga

We parked on a nondescript road in the middle of town and ate lunch at La Fabrica brewery. My friends and I checked into our Airbnb, dropped off our luggage, and explored the neighborhood. We particularly appreciated the Plaza de la Constitución, which introduces the Historic Quarter of Málaga. The intricate tiling and stately fountain complements the 17thcentury architecture that frames the square. The rest of our afternoon was devoted to navigating the busy streets on foot.

We spent the next day touring Catedral de Málaga (the cathedral), Alcazaba de Málaga (the fortress), and Castillo de Gibralfaro (the castle). As expected, Catedral de Málaga was colossal and breathtakingly ornate. Fully experiencing its impressiveness requires at least a few hours. Don’t rush through the exhibits and history lessons! Our leisurely pace preserved our energy for the hike to the fortress and castle —a challenging trek rewarding us with 360° views of the bay and city as Gibralfaro proudly looked on.

The hike down from Alcazaba and Gibralfaro worked up our appetites. I always recommend El Patio Bodega and El Pimpi to anyone planning to visit Málaga. El Patio is known for its easygoing atmosphere and seemingly infinite options for paela. El Pimpi is a popular spot among the locals. Their tapas, wine, and desserts make the establishment a pillar of

Photos (L-R): Malaga Alcazaba; Malaga Plaza; Malaga Cathedral

authenticity. Pull up a seat to one of El Pimpi’s barrel tables on the sidewalk and watch the lively nightlife of Málaga unfold. Hammam Al Ándalus (the Arabic bathhouse) We saved the best for last—Hammam Al Ándalus (the Arabic bathhouse). The girls and I treated ourselves to a relaxing soak and individualized massages. Although we were not permitted to photograph the interior, the Arabic architectural features had us speechless. “I have never been so at peace in my life” is the perfect statement to describe the experience. The environment is meditative, clarifying, and humbling. I felt honored to have walked through Hammam Al Ándalus’ doors. We left Málaga feeling rejuvenated for the second half of our road trip— Seville, Spain.

Village of Ronda

Along our drive from Málaga to Seville, endless open space suddenly gave way to the mountaintop community of Ronda. The village is perched on El Tajo gorge, which separates the city’s “new” town (built in the 15th century) from its old town (built during Moorish rule).

A stone bridge, Puente Nuevo, crosses the gorge and offers stunning views of the region. Highlights of Ronda include the Plaza de Toros (the birthplace of bullfighting), La Casa del Rey Moro (the House of the Moorish King), and Paseo de Ernest Hemingway. Having lunch on the patio of Mesón El Sacristán was exactly what we needed after hours of exploring. The restaurant is cozily nestled up against a picturesque church. Rumor has it that Mesón El Sacristán has access to Arabic and Roman ruins downstairs. I will have to return to see them for myself.

And Now…Seville

The magic of Ronda fueled our excitement for Seville. After two more hours of rolling hills, Seville greeted us as we drove around a bend of the Rio Guadalquivir. We settled into our hotel and didn’t waste any time to get out for some sightseeing.

When I’m in a new city, checking out the local churches and cathedrals is first on my list. Catedral de Sevila did not disappoint. It was constructed in the 16th century and is the largest gothic cathedral in the world (23,500 square meters or 253,000 square feet).

Its bell tower, La Giralda, is a stately 105 meters (343 feet) tall. Did you know that the grounds were home to the Almohad Mosque until the conquest of Seville in 1248? During conversion, the cathedral shifted liturgical orientation from facing south (toward Mecca) to east (toward Jerusalem).

Time did not allow me to wander the Real Alcázar and Plaza de España. However, both are equally important places to visit. The Real Alcázar is known for its luxurious gardens, fountains, pavilions, and art

galleries. It was built in the early middle ages and its architecture is heavy influenced by the Renaissance.

The Plaza de España was designed by Aníbal González in 1929 and sits within the Parque de María Luisa. The estate covers an impressive 45,000 square meters (480,000 square feet) with a canal running through the park. Taking a boat/gondola ride is highly recommended. As you drift along the waterway, your surroundings might look familiar: Star Wars and Game of Thrones were both filmed at the Plaza de España.

Dining in Seville

We couldn’t have been happier to stumble upon Sacamuelas while strolling around the city. The restaurant oozes charm with its stone walls and quaint furnishings. Sacamuelas specializes in Mediterraneanstyle cuisine, and their patatas bravas, roasted peppers, risotto, and goat cheese salad were delicious. We also received excellent service from the wait staff. Not far down the street is Créeme Helado, which is the ultimate spot for dessert on a hot day. The owner makes his ice cream with fresh produce and is always churning out creative combinations. I’m talking about honey, lavender, lemon, almond, black sesame, green tea, etc. Craving a certain flavor? I am sure Créeme Helado can fulfill your dream.