Don Julio—a Buenos Aires Meat Lover’s Paradise

By Sharon Kurtz

When folks travel to Argentina, they generally have three things on their mind: Malbec, meat, and mouthwatering cuisine. Well, that, and fútbol. Even Pope Francis, a native porteño, is quite the passionate fan.

When I can travel again, I will be winging my way back to Buenos Aires. The most visited city in South America with its wide boulevards, elegant architecture, and rich European heritage, the Argentinean capital has a distinct character all of its own.

I spent two weeks in Buenos A i r e s discovering the city right before the shutdown due to COVID. Divided into well-de fi ned neighborhoods, each has its own personality and u n i q u e characteristics. With a proud Italian and Spanish heritage, there is serious attention to food and wine here.

I stayed in a tiny Airbnb in the hip neighborhood of Palermo Soho. Reminding me of New York City’s Soho with its leafy streets and quirky shops; at sundown and long into the night, the restaurants and bars spill out onto the streets with music everywhere. One of the best ways to get to know a place, people, and community is experiencing the local culture through its traditions and customs. Eating steak here is a ritual, and if you don't manage to score an invite to a weekend Asado, getting your fix at a parrilla is what thousands of porteños do every day. When I joined my fellow guests for a glass of Malbec on my first night in the communal courtyard of my accommodation, I was thankful for a hot insider tip for my immersion into Argentine culture.

Traditional steakhouse shows diners what real Argentine Asado is all about. Don Julio, the renowned steakhouse in the city was right around the corner in the heart of Palermo. My new friends advised me to make a reservation fast if I wanted to eat the best steak of my life.

The beloved mom-and-pop traditional Asado steakhouse since 1999 was named the Best restaurant in Latin America, known for two sublime standouts—tender beefsteaks and awardwinning wines.

Dating back to the 19th century, the building’s charming façade with colorful striped awnings faces a cobbled street corner. The interior brick walls are lined with empty wine bottles converting the rustic space into a welcoming wine

Perfectly prepared medium rare

Photos, clockwise from top left:

Steak cuts; Grill master at work; Traditional parrilla iron grill; stoking the flames

sanctuary where diners around the world have signed labels of great Argentinian wines with personal handwritten messages. The grill takes center stage, and everything combines perfectly in the discovery of the cuisine representing Argentina in one single meal.

The enticing aroma was the first clue that I’d come to the Mecca of Asado

I scored a small table near the action to watch the Asador do his magic as the cooks shifted the red embers in the fire pit to create optimum heat for each order. I loved watching the interplay between the grill master and the wait staff—it was like a dance—each working to give the guest the experience they expected and deserved.

The service was attentive, even to a guest dining solo. However, if you're an Argentine steakhouse novice that doesn’t speak Spanish, the menu can be somewhat overwhelming. My waiter was very thorough and patient, explaining the different cuts of meat and the wine that would pair best, helping me select the Ojo de bife (rib-eye steak), prepared medium rare and perfectly matched with a magnificent Malbec. The accompanying grilled zucchini was the one spot of color on my plate. A traditional chimichurri sauce helped define the Argentinian steak house experience; and the beefsteak, well, it was the best I have ever eaten in my life.

This Buenos Aries ritual was everything I had hoped for and more. With a full stomach and only a few hours to spare until my flight, I promised myself that this visit would not be my last. I slept the entire flight home, dreaming of when I could return to this enchanting city and have another incomparable meal at Don Julio's.