A passion forItalian wine a conversation about wines
By Christine Cutler
Vineyards of Chianti
When he became an adult, he became more interested in the world of wine and decided to take a sommelier course of the AIS (Associazione It a l i a n a S o m m e l i e r / It a l i a n S o m m e l i e r Association). For three years, Giovanni studied viticulture, winemaking techniques (Italian and foreign types), theory, and tasting (how to judge the quality of a wine), and in the end, he earned his certificate.
Do you have a favorite wine? Without a doubt, Pinot Noir. In 1998, I happened to open a bottle left in the cellar by my father. It was a 1993 Blauburgunder Vig na Sant’Urbano di Hofstatter in Termeno. It is perhaps the Italian Pinot Noir that is closest to those of Burgundy, which is the area of origin and choice of Pinot Noir. It is a difficult vine that grows only in a few areas of the world, but in the most suitable areas, it gives extraordinary wines. It is a light and transparent wine that rests entirely on perfumes. It is almost a shame to drink it, sometimes I just need to smell it. In Italy, it is produced almost only in South Tyrol and in particular in the area between Termeno and Montagna, two small villages south of Bolzano.
I asked him if he would share his thoughts on wine with our readers. Giovanni agreed but told me that even though he is a sommelier, he is not an expert. “The more I learn of it, the more doubts take the place of certainties. It is a very vast world that is always changing. Compared to 20 years ago, when I started studying it seriously, a lot has changed.”
In the last few years, I have greatly appreciated another grape variety that is produced only on the slopes of Etna in Sicily. The vine is Nerello Mascalese, and the DOP is called Etna Rosso. This, too, is a light wine that focuses entirely on perfumes. Unfortunately, the area is small and there are few companies that produce it. Consequently, the prices are high because it is
G
iovanni Grillenzoni has had a passion for wine since he was a child. At that time, his family had a vineyard near Modena where they grew the typical grapes of the area— Lambr usco, Barbera and Trebbiano—and produced wine for their own enjoyment.
64
