Forage Victoria by Forage

A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH VICTORIA

Photography by Jessica Shaver

A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH VICTORIA Published by

upside GROWING SUSTAINABILITY IN NEPAL

Great Ocean Road

Montalto

FOREWORD Look up the definition of ‘to forage’ and you’ll see that it’s meaning is, “to search widely for food or provisions.’ Synonyms for foraging might include ‘rummaging’, ‘scouring the countryside’, ‘scrounging’, ‘hunting for’, ‘picking’, ‘to look high and low’ and ‘to leave no stone unturned’, and as you’ll see it is just that the chefs featured in this beautiful book are engrossed in. They may not all be mad enough like me to stand knee deep in a local icy (but reliably pristine) stream harvesting watercress, or to tip toe around suspicious bulls for access to the best crop of stinging nettles. But no matter whether they are harvesting their own plantings, sourcing the best heirloom varieties from a farmer, revising their menus on a daily basis based on produce availability, discussing the best time of year to use beets for borscht, crossing town in search of a rumoured new supplier, sharing the name of (in their opinion) the best purveyor of octopus, or creating a product themselves from the ground up using time-honoured techniques, we all share in a common discourse. It’s always about sourcing or creating the best. Names, networks, secret spots, new suppliers, new farms, fishermen, new ingredients are shared with colleagues, and move through our Australian culinary fraternity with lightning speed. Like our favourite knives and all the other important tools of our trade, they are stored carefully and regularly updated. It’s often about ‘local’ and ‘seasonal’ but it’s always about finding ‘the best’. “Leave no stone unturned”, indeed. That proceeds of this book will be used to support community agriculture in nations that are not as fortunate as our own is of additional import. I hope this book brings you pleasure and inspires you to do some ‘foraging’ of your own.

Alla Wolf-Tasker AM Lake House, Daylesford August 2015

Daylesford Macedon Region Chris Badendoch Lake House Red Beard Bakery The Argus

Mildura

Melbourne Andrew’s Hamburgers Auction Room B’Stilla Books for Cooks Borsch Vodka & Tears Bottega Builders Arms Burch & Purchese Charlie Dumpling Circa Clever Polly Cookie Cumulus Inc DOC Pizza DuNord Easy Tiger Estelle Gypsey & Musquito Hellenic Republic Huxtable

Seven Hills Tallarook Angelica Organic Farm Jonai Farms

Black Stump Bistro Jim McDougall at Stefano’s Cellar

MILDURA

Kinfolk Kumo Izakaya La Tortelleria Lune Croissanterie Major Major Matt Donnelly Meatmaiden Merricote Middle Fish Moon Under Water Mrs Parmas NORA Patrizia Simone Pho Nom Pidapipo Pierre Roelofs Proud Mary Rockwell & Sons Rumi Saint Crispin

VICTORIA ALPINE DAYLESFORD MACEDON REGION

MELBOURNE GEELONG

MORNINGTON PENINSULA

LORNE

Alpine Mornington Pensinsula

Lorne Maple Tree

Montalto Ten Minutes by Tractor

Geelong Zigfrids

Patrizia Simone Simone’s Tani Eat and Drink Myrtleford Butter Milawa Chicken Bright Brewery

Seven Seeds Shop Ramen Short Stop Donuts Silver Creek Smokers Small Victories St Ali Supernormal The Atlantic The Commoner The European The Everleigh Tipo00 Tivoli Rd Bakery Town Mouse Twenty & Six Uncle Woodland House Mushrooms Anonymous Queen Victoria Market

THE SEA

04 - 89

THE EARTH

90 - 161

THE LAND

162 - 281

THE TREATS

282 - 347

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS INDEX - RESTAURANTS

352 - 353 355 - 357

THE SEA CHAR-GRILLED OCTOPUS, SALICORN, BLACK TARAMA

KINGFISH, FRESH CURD, PICKLED ONIONS AND SORREL

HAPUKA BETEL LEAF

RIVERS AND LAKES

CURED SCALLOPS WITH RHUBARB PONZU

MUSSEL PANCAKE AND GREEN MANGO SALAD

SALMON, BLOOD ORANGE, SEA VEGETABLES, WITLOF AND CUCUMBER

STRIPED TRUMPETER, SCORCHED ALMOND, BABY FENNEL, BRASSICA

MURRAY COD WITH POTATO PUREE

TUNA NICOISE

SMOKED OYSTER, ABALONE, COMPRESSED CUCUMBER AND SAMPHIRE

CURED SAIKOU SALMON, BUTTERMILK, SALTED AND PICKLED TURNIPS AND RADISHES

CONFIT ORA KING SALMON, CASSOULET OF BEANS, SAFFRON AND CHORIZO, SLOW COOKED OCTOPUS, SQUID INK CRACKERS, AND FINO SHERRY SAUCE SEA BREAM, WHITE SOY AND GINGER

PRAWNS WITH WILD GARLIC

SPANNER CRAB OMELETTE

HIRAMASA KINGFISH TARTAR, TOMATO JELLY, TOMATO SORBET AND MARINATED HEIRLOOM TOMATOES, BASIL BALSAMIC GEL

PAN-SEARED SCALLOPS WITH SOY BUTTER, SPRING ONION AND BONITO FLAKES

CRISPY MURRAY COD WITH GREEN PAPAYA SALAD AND CHILLI & LIME DRESSING

HAY CUSTARD, PORT ARLINGTON MUSSELS AND DILL SCALLOPS WITH CHARRED SWEET CORN SALSA, GAZPACHO AND AJI AMARILLO

CALAMARI WITH KIPFLERS, CHORIZO AND GREEN GODDESS DRESSING

LOBSTER MAC AND CHEESE

MORITA FISH TACO

45 46

CHARGRILLED OCTOPUS, TAHINI REMOULADE, SALT & VINEGAR SALTBUSH

SNAPPER WITH CELERIAC AND SORREL SASHIMI OF PORT PHILLIP BAY ROCK FLATHEAD, KOO WEE RUP ASPARAGUS, YUZU KOSHO, RADISH AND AVOCADO

Seafood 5

Saint Crispin Uncle

Uncle

Woodland House

Hellenic Republic

Rockwell & Sons

Uncle

Black Stump Bistro

Hellenic Republic

CHAR-GRILLED OCTOPUS, SALICORN, BLACK TARAMA SERVES: 2 - 4

METHOD

BLACK TARAMA

130 g bread, crusts removed

Place bread in a bowl and cover with cold water. Allow to sit for 3 minutes. Strain and squeeze out most of the water.

water 40 g brown onions, diced 170 g tarama paste 90 ml lemon juice, freshly squeezed 1 L blended oil 15 g squid ink OCTOPUS

1 kg octopus tentacles 3 L water 1 lemon, halved 10 g salt

Blend the bread, onion, tarama paste, and lemon juice together until smooth. Blend in oil gradually as if making a mayonnaise. Add a little water to loosen the mixture if it becomes too thick. Stir through the squid ink and refrigerate. OCTOPUS

Place the salt, lemon, bay leaves and water in a large pot and bring to the boil. Add the octopus, cover, and cook for 40 minutes at a medium simmer. Remove the octopus from the water and chill. TO ASSEMBLE

Char the octopus until hot and well caramelised, then slice. Place the black tarama on the base of a board or plate and place the sliced octopus, salicorn and a wedge of lemon on top.

3 bay leaves 50 g salicorn/saltwort

Chef: Travis McAuley â&#x20AC;&#x153;The concept behind Hellenic Republic has always been simple Greek cuisine, cooked with love. The local octopus from the boys at Ocean Made has been a staple on the menu since day dot. It is generally served as a meze at the start of the meal to get the taste buds going (generally with a glass of ouzo) so punchy ingredients like the cod roe dip and the salty salicorn work a treat.â&#x20AC;?

Saint Crispin

SALMON, BLOOD ORANGE, SEA VEGETABLES, WITLOF AND CUCUMBER SERVES: 4

METHOD

500 g salmon fillet, skin and bloodline removed

Combine the sugar and salt in a bowl. Zest one orange into the bowl. Place the salmon fillet in a non-reactive dish and cover with the salt mixture. Juice the zested orange and pour the juice and Campari over the salmon. Cover and place in the fridge for 8 hours.

50 g rock salt 40 g salt 3 blood oranges 50 ml Campari 100 g each seaspray and sea blight 5 chives 1 lebanese cucumber 1 head witlof

Peel the remaining oranges, segment then cut each segment into thirds. Peel the cucumber, then remove and discard the seeds. Cut into 1 cm dice then place in a bowl with the orange. Pick the sea blight and sea spray into small bunches, removing any tough, woody stems. Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil and add a big pinch of salt. Add the sea vegetables and cook for 1 minute. Drain and immediately place in iced water to stop the cooking process. Drain and add to the bowl along with the cucumber and orange. Remove the salmon fillet from the fridge and rinse of all the salt. Dry thoroughly. Slice into 5mm slices and divide across four plates. Slice the witlof wafer thin and also slice the chives. Add these to the cucumber bowl and toss to combine. Cover the salmon with this salad and serve immediately.

Chef: Joe Grbac The menu at Saint Crispin is revised daily according to nature’s bounty, so don’t expect to see this exact iteration of this dish there any time soon. Do expect confident modern cooking with classic French foundations, based on the availability of local produce, served in a airy, polished space by a team of people who really know what they’re doing.

Black Stump Bistro

MURRAY COD WITH POTATO PUREE SERVES: 4

METHOD

3 tbsp grapeseed oil

PICKLED FENNEL

4 fillets Murray Cod

Place the sliced fennel in a non-reactive container. Put all other ingredients in a small pot and warm over medium heat to dissolve the sugar. Allow to cool then pour over the fennel. (This will keep for a long time in a jar; the flavour actually improves with time).

500 ml chicken or cod stock juice of ½ a lemon 1 tbsp chopped parsley 1 tsp capers

POTATO PUREE

120 g butter, cubed

Cook potatoes in plenty of well-salted water (do not boil potatoes, just simmer on medium heat) until tender. Place butter and milk in a small pot over medium heat to melt and combine.

12 wild mushroom leaves 12 wild sorrel leaves 12 sprigs of wild fennel POTATO PUREE

Drain the potatoes then pass through a fine drum sieve or a potato ricer. Add the hot butter mix and whisk into the warm potatoes. Season to taste with salt flakes. Transfer to a piping bag and keep warm.

3 peeled Sebago potatoes 150 g butter 5 g Murray River salt 60 ml milk PICKLED FENNEL

1 fennel bulb, very thinly sliced 700 ml white vinegar 300 g caster sugar 10 g Murray River salt flakes

COD

Place a large frying pan over high heat and add the oil. Allow to get very hot, to the point that it is almost smoking. Carefully add the fish, skin-side down. Shallowfry the fish for about 1 minute, until it is golden brown. Once happy with the caramelisation of the fish on skin-side, add 20 g butter, turn the heat down to low and allow the fish to gently fry in the butter for 1 minute. Pour out all the oil/butter then turn the fish over and add the stock. Simmer gently until the fish is cooked – about 2 minutes. Remove fish and keep warm. Add capers, parsley and lemon juice to the pan. Remove from the heat, add the remaining butter and shake pan until the butter is melted and the sauce is emulsified. Season to taste and adjust with lemon juice and salt. To serve, place cod onto four warm serving plates. Pipe mash onto the plate next to the cod. Garnish with pickled fennel, wild herbs and butter sauce, with lemon on the side. NOTE: The only important thing to remember when making this recipe is never let your

potatoes go cold. You must work fast or your mash will have an unpleasant texture.

Chef: Jim McDougall “This is the quintessential pan-fried fish dish; the French call it a la meuniere and it is the best way to prepare fish. No matter how many fancy ideas we come up with to prepare fish, this will always be my favourite. This dish takes some skill to prepare and can take some practice. There is an art to cooking a fish this way. The key is to get a nice golden brown colour when you initially seal the fish. You also want to keep the sauce emulsified. It still tastes great if it separates, so it just depends on how fussy you want to be. I skin my cod, but it works equally well with any white fish with or without skin.”

Continues on page 38

Clever Polly’s

SCALLOPS WITH CHARRED SWEET CORN SALSA, GAZPACHO AND AJI AMARILLO SERVES: 4

METHOD

SCALLOPS

For the gazpacho, preheat oven to 180°C. Place the whole tomatoes, capsicum and garlic cloves in an oven tray and toss with a little olive oil. Cook for 45 minutes. Once roasted, let drain in a colander until cool.

16 scallops 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp butter (optional) GAZPACHO

4 ripe roma tomatoes 1 red capsicum 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled 1 small Lebanese cucumber 1 tbsp sherry vinegar Olive oil ½ tsp sea salt, to taste AJI AMARILLO CREAM

50 g crème fraiche 1 tsp aji amarillo 1 pinch sea salt ¼ tsp lemon zest

Meanwhile, peel the cucumber, remove the seeds and place the flesh in a food processor. Once cool, peel the capsicum and tomatoes and squeeze out the roasted garlic into the food processor, and add the vinegar and salt. Blitz until smooth and strain through a fine sieve. Meanwhile, while waiting for the tomatoes and capsicum to cook, make the Aji Amarillo cream and the corn salsa. For the Aji Amarillo cream, lightly whisk all the ingredients in a small bowl and set aside in the refrigerator for later. For corn salsa, fill a pot big enough to hold the corn with water and season heavily with salt. Bring it up to the boil, then cook the corn for 10 minutes with the lid on. After 10 minutes, remove the corn from the water and set aside to cool. Chop the coriander and place in a bowl with the other salsa ingredients. Once the corn is cool, cut the kernels off the cob and add it to the bowl, and stir to combine. For the crisps, use a potato peeler to shave off about 25 strips from the sweet potato. Prepare a bowl lined with paper towel and set aside until needed. Heat the oil in a medium sized pot until it reaches 180°C, then turn the heat to low so the temperature does not keep increasing. Carefully drop the sweet potato crisps into the oil and stir with a wooden spoon to submerge and keep the strips separate. Cook until golden brown, about 1 - 2 minutes. Carefully remove them using a slotted spoon and place them in the bowl with the paper towel. Season with a little salt.

Chef: Renee Trudeau “This dish is broken up into five components. Though it may seem daunting, they are all very simple. The whole preparation process should take around an hour. Aji Amarillo is a yellow Peruvian Chilli that can be found in specialty Spanish stores. We get ours from Casa Iberica in Fitzroy. If you’re not able to find it, you can substitute another chilli paste.“

The Commoner

KINGFISH, FRESH CURD, PICKLED ONIONS AND SORREL SERVES: 4

METHOD

1 Hiramasa kingfish

For the fresh curd, heat the milk to 38째C with the rennet and leave in a warm spot to set. Cut with a knife and hang in muslin cloth until all the whey has drained out. Place in a thermomix and blitz until silky and smooth.

2 lemons 2 limes 500 g caster sugar 500 g salt 1 vanilla bean FRESH CURD

1 L milk 3 ml rennet VERJUICE ONIONS

3 baby onions 500 ml verjuice 30 g sugar 100 ml apple cider vinegar

To cure the kingfish, zest the lemons and limes and combine with the sugar and salt. Scrape the vanilla seeds from the pod and add to the salt/sugar mixture. Cover the kingfish evenly with the curing mixture and leave for about 4 hours. After 4 hours, wash off the cure, wipe the fish dry with kitchen towel and place in the fridge to dry out a little. For the verjuice onions, peel the onions, keeping them whole. Combine all other ingredients in a pot with the onions and bring to the boil. Once it has come to the boil, take the pot off the heat, cover and let the onions steep through. Allow to cool and then separate into petals. To serve, thinly slice the kingfish and dress with olive oil. Spread some of the curd on plates and arrange the kingfish on top. Garnish with verjuice onion, garlic flowers, summer purslane and wood sorrel and dress with a little more olive oil.

GARNISH

garlic flowers summer purslane wood sorrel

Chef: Jake Kellie When owner Jo Corrigan returned to her homeland after years working as a chef in London, she made real her vision of a restaurant that celebrated honest and seasonal food, unpretentiously shared among friends, in the form of The Commoner in Fitzroy. Eight years later, the kitchen thrives on creating things on site from breads to charcuterie to dairy, sourcing (and foraging) as much local produce as possible, served with genuine warmth and hospitality.

Huxtable

CRISPY MURRAY COD WITH GREEN PAPAYA SALAD AND CHILLI & LIME DRESSING SERVES: 4 (part of a shared meal)

METHOD

200 g Murray cod fillets, skin on 1 tbsp fish sauce

Dice the Murray Cod into 2 cm cubes. Set aside in a bowl.

1 green papaya, finely shredded on a mandolin 10 cherry tomatoes 2 long red chillies, halved, seeds removed and finely sliced ½ bunch Thai basil, leaves picked (do not wash as it will turn black) ½ bunch coriander, washed and picked ¼ cup crispy fried shallots 2 tbsp crispy fried anchovies (available from a Korean grocer) DRESSING

1 birdseye chilli, sliced with seeds in 50 g palm sugar

To make the dressing, place all the ingredients into a blender and blitz until the chilli is well blitzed and the palm sugar is dissolved. Place into a container or a squeeze bottle and set aside. Mix the green papaya, cherry tomatoes and herbs in a bowl. Mix 1 tbsp of fish sauce with the Murray cod cubes and let sit for 2 minutes. Remove the Murray Cod from the fish sauce and drain on paper towel for 1 minute. Heat a medium sized saucepan with 10 cm vegetable oil to 180°C. You can test if it is ready by dipping a wooden chopstick into the oil, if small bubbles come from the chopstick, it is ready to cook! Carefully place the Murray Cod into the oil – it will splutter a little from the fish sauce so stand back a little. Move the fish around with chopsticks or a metal spoon so it doesn’t stick together. Cook for 2 minutes or until golden and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Add the fish to the salad and then add enough dressing to coat well. Toss together then gently pile up on a plate. Top with the crispy shallots and anchovies and enjoy.

50 ml fish sauce 100 ml lime juice

Chef: Daniel Wilson One of the first restaurants to pop up on the newly-revived Smith Street, Huxtable serves up a menu inspired by flavours cherry-picked from world over, from Korea to the deep South of the US, from the deeply creative to the ultra traditional, big flavours served up confidently from a food lover’s dream open kitchen.

THE EARTH BEER BREAD, SALTBUSH BUTTER AND TRUFFLE BUTTERMILK

ASPARAGUS TORTELLONI WITH PARMESAN SAUCE AND SAGE

128

WILD SPINACH BRUSCHETTA

101

COFFEE-ROASTED CARROT SALAD WITH RICOTTA

135

BURRATA, WITLOF, WATERCRESS AND DATE

102 ROMANESCO, WHIPPED PINE NUT, BURNT BUTTER AND GARLIC

136

ASPARAGUS, PEAS, BROAD BEANS, SHEEP’S MILK & SEEDS

105 139

FARRO AND QUINOA SALAD WITH CANDY BEETROOTS AND WINTER PURSLANE

108

BURNT EGGPLANT WITH GARLIC YOGHURT, FRESH TOMATO AND SPANISH ONION CORN FRITTERS

140

POLISH STYLE BORSCH

111

PIZZA DOC

145

TOMATO, MINT AND GOATS CURD SALAD

146

TARRAGON MUSHROOMS WITH POACHED EGG ON NETTLE PUREE

149

150

PRAWNS WITH WILD GARLIC SALAD OF RED HILL SOMERS SOFT GOATS CHEESE WITH PICKLED CARROT, CRACKED FREEKEH, WALNUT VINAIGRETTE AND CARROT EMULSION

112

BURRATA, HEIRLOOM TOMATO AND BLACK GARLIC

115

CANNELLONI WITH RICOTTA, PINE MUSHROOMS, SPINACH AND MOZZARELLA

120

BUFFALO HALOUMI, FRESH FIG, HONEY AND LIME DRESSING

153

“GARDEN SALAD” OF GRILLED FENNEL, CARROT, BARLEY AND MAIN RIDGE DAIRY CASHMERE

TOMATO SALAD, YUZU KOSHU, SILKEN TOFU

154

SAUTÉ OF WILD CARDOONS WITH MARJORAM, MOZZARELLA SAUCE, EGGPLANT INK, WILD FENNEL, FORAGED WEEDS AND FLOWERS

123 VINOCOTTO FIGS WITH PROSCIUTTO

157

BLACK RICE, QUINOA, EGG

158

FRESH GOATS CURD, CANDIED OLIVES, NASTURTIUM, GRAINS AND SEED

124

Vegetables

Angelica Organic Farm, Glenlyon

Auction Rooms Estelle Bistro

Ten Minutes by Tractor

Auction Rooms

Simoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Ten Minutes x Tractor

Borsch, Vodka and Tears

Estelle Bistro

Patrizia Simone

Simone’s

WILD SPINACH BRUSCHETTA SERVES: 4-6

METHOD

6 slices of ciabatta

Blanch the wild spinach briefly in a large pot of boiling, well-salted water. Drain and squeeze out as much liquid as possible.

1 kg wild spinach 100 ml olive oil 4 cloves garlic 1 red chilli salt and pepper parmesan cheese

Place the oil, chilli and crushed garlic in a frying pan and heat. Warm up and make sure not to burn the garlic. Add the blanched wild spinach and toss with the garlic oil. Cook for about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toast the bread lightly and rub with a garlic clove and drizzle with some olive oil. Pile the wild spinach on the bread and finish with plenty of shaved parmesan cheese.

Chef: Patrizia Simone Wild Spinach, also called ‘Fat Hen’, is a wild green that grows large and lustrous in this country. Patrizia Simone gathers hers from the banks of the river, walking distance from where her eponymous restaurant Simone’s, and cooking school in Bright. Here the just-harvested young leaves and shoots are turned into a simple bruschetta, indicative of the traditional Italian techniques and flavours Patrizia has championed in regional Victoria.

Proud Mary

ASPARAGUS, PEAS, BROAD BEANS, SHEEP’S MILK & SEEDS SERVES: 4

METHOD

16 spears green asparagus

Hang the sheep’s milk yoghurt overnight in the fridge to drain.

16 spears white asparagus 100 g peas, podded 100 g broad beans 16 baby carrots 80 g pumpkin seeds 80 g sunflower seeds 15 g sesame seeds 125 g unsalted butter 125 g caster sugar 500 g sheep’s milk yoghurt lemon juice salt and freshly ground pepper Sumac olive oil broad bean flowers and nasturtium leaves, to garnish

Preheat oven to 170°C. Melt the butter in a saucepan on the stove, then add the sugar and dissolve. Add the seeds and salt and mix to combine. Line a tray with baking paper then spread the seed mixture onto the tray. Bake until golden then cool at room temperature. Blanch the green asparagus in boiling salted water for 2 minutes then refresh under cold water. Repeat the process in the same water with the white asparagus and cook for 5 minutes, then remove and place on a tray in the fridge. Cook the broad beans for 2 minutes in the same water, then refresh in cold water. Clean the baby carrots if needed, and blanch for 3 minutes, then transfer to a tray in the fridge. The peas are to remain raw. To assemble, toss the green and white asparagus and carrots in a bowl with lemon juice, salt and pepper and olive oil. On a plate, arrange three green and white asparagus and three carrots, scatter over the broad beans and raw peas. Place three tablespoons of yoghurt on the plate. Break up the seed biscuit and arrange on the plate. Garnish with broad bean flowers, nasturtium leaves, a pinch of sumac and olive oil.

Chef: Barney Hannagan & Joel Hales One of Collingwood’s favourite venues, Proud Mary goes above and beyond the standard café fare with dishes like this celebration of spring vegetables, a light, fresh lunch dish with bags of flavour.

100

101

Montalto Vineyard and Olive Grove, Red Hill

106

Kinfolk

SAUTÉ OF WILD CARDOONS WITH MARJORAM, MOZZARELLA SAUCE, EGGPLANT INK, WILD FENNEL, FORAGED WEEDS AND FLOWERS SERVES: 4

METHOD

1 kg wild cardoons

For the eggplant ink, start the day before serving. Char the eggplants on a flame until the skin is black and the flesh is soft. Then blitz in a food processor until smooth. Spread the eggplant puree very thinly on a baking tray lined with paper. Dehydrate in a very low oven overnight.

olive oil salt 1 tbsp butter 1 lemon

The next day, blitz the dehydrated eggplant and emulsify with grapeseed oil.

2 medium mozzarella balls

½ bunch fresh majoram

To prepare the wild cardoons, peel the cardoons, removing the fibrous skin. Immediately soak in acidulated water to avoid oxidation, much as you would artichoke. Simmer in salted water for 20 – 30 minutes to remove the bitterness, then strain and allow to cool.

½ sourdough loaf, crust removed

Dice the cardoons, and pan fry them on medium heat with salt, marjoram and oil, and finish with a knob of butter.

200 ml buttermilk 2 eggplants

3 medium fennel fronds 1 tbsp wild fennel seeds ½ tbsp Sichuan pepper 500 ml grapeseed oil plenty of foraged greens, to serve – we used chickweed, nasturtium leaves and flowers, wood sorrel leaves and flowers, wild onion flowers, wild fennel fronds, and fresh majoram leaves

Meanwhile prepare the mozzarella sauce. Blitz the mozzarella balls with the buttermilk until relatively smooth. Strain and put in fridge. For the wild fennel oil, blanch the fennel stalks and fronds for 30 seconds then refresh in iced water. Strain and blitz with grapeseed oil. After blitzing, set aside for the fennel to macerate in the oil for 2 – 3 hours, then strain into a squeeze bottle. Keep fresh in the fridge. For the wild fennel crumbs, pulse the sourdough bread in a food processor to create large breadcrumbs, and allow to dry completely. Crush the crumbs with the wild fennel seeds and Sichuan pepper. To serve, place the cardoons inside a ring mould, then drizzle with the black and white sauces (mozzarella and eggplant). Sprinkle the fennel crumbs over the cardoons. Remove the ring mould and garnish with foraged weeds and flowers. Drizzle with the wild fennel oil to finish.

Chef: Paolo Arlotta and Paul Miragliotta Paul and Paolo collaborated to create this light and weedy dish. Delicate and balanced with recognisable flavours. Paolo enjoys the intensity that wild flavours bring to the dish. This dish is one of head chef Paolo’s many experiments, which are now frequent in the cafe’s new kitchen, a result of a large crowd funding campaign. He explains that cardoon and marjoram belong together just as tomato and basil do. Paul is a regular volunteer at Kinfolk and he foraged the selection of weeds fresh the same morning. Wild cardoon, the main ingredient, is a tricky one to pick, the plant being so spiked. This day was the first time he managed to pick it without puncturing his hands. Kinfolk is a social enterprise powered by a community of volunteers, and it redistributes all profits to its partner charities.

107

Supernormal

TOMATO SALAD, YUZU KOSHU, SILKEN TOFU SERVES: 4

METHOD

600 g assorted heirloom tomatoes

Depending on the size of your tomatoes, peel any thick skin varieties, slice some into wedges or quarters, and leave some whole. Add the tomatoes to a bowl with the shiso leaves and red onion and season lightly with salt.

1 piece silken tofu, sliced into 8 rounds (Yenson’s brand is good) 6 shiso leaves, finely chopped 2 tbsp red onion, finely shaved on a mandolin

Whisk together all of the dressing ingredients to combine and toss through the salad. Taste for seasoning. Arrange the tofu on the bottom of a bowl, and spoon the dressed tomatoes on top. To finish, sprinkle the fried shallots and baby shiso shoots over the salad.

pinch of salt YUZU KOSHO DRESSING

2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp gluten free soy sauce 1 tbsp ginger vinegar 2 tbsp grapeseed oil ½ tsp yuzu kosho (Japanese green chilli and citrus paste) 4 tbsp fried shallots Shiso leaf shoots

Chef: Ben Pigott Chef and restaurateur Andrew McConnell expanded his ever-growing restaurant empire with Supernormal, a contemporary Asian diner with quintessential ‘Melbourne’ style. Playing on the Italian ‘Insalata Caprese’, this delicious small plate replaces creamy mozzarella with silken tofu and basil with sharp, peppery shiso to put a refreshing Eastern spin on a classic.

138

139

146

THE LAND GREENVALE FARM JUMBUCK MECHOUI WITH PARSNIP PUREE AND CUMQUATS

169

WAGYU PORTERHOUSE AND SHORT RIB WITH MUSHROOM KETCHUP

220

SMOKED LAMB RIBS WITH WHITE BEAN PUREE AND ROSEMARY OIL

170

POT-ROASTED, LACQUERED RARE-BREED WILTSHIRE HORNED LEG OF LAMB, WITH CARAWAY AND BLACK GARLIC

227

KANGAROO CURING ON A SALT BLOCK WITH WILD MUSTARD ICE CREAM

174 SPOIA LORDA – HOUSEMADE MINI RAVIOLI WITH RABBIT RAGU, BLACK OLIVES AND SQUACQUERONE

228

PASTRAMI, PICKLES AND RYE

177 178

KAKUNI (TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BRAISED PORK BELLY) WRAPPED IN PUFF PASTRY

231

PIGS EARS BANH MI WALLABY CARPACCIO, PICKLED RHUBARB, PEPPERCORN MAYO AND MACADAMIA

181

FLINDERS ISLAND LAMB, SEA SUCCULENTS, PICKLED WALNUTS

232

GRILLED OX TONGUE, PEPPERS, LEEKS, SMOKED ALMONDS, CHOPPED EGG AND JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE CHIPS

186

FIG, GORGONZOLA AND PROSCIUTTO PIZZA

235

BBQ PARMA

236

ROASTED BENDIGO FARMERS QUAIL, HONEY, HEIRLOOM CARROTS AND BLACK SESAME SEEDS

189

DUCK PANCAKES

239

190

FLINDERS ISLAND LAMB, DRYSDALE GOAT CHEVRE, TOMATO, LEMON, MINT, OLIVE

240

BETEL LEAVES, PINEAPPLE, PORK, PRAWN & PEANUT SALAD

193

BEER-BRAISED SHER WAGYU BRISKET WITH PICKLED PEACH AND KALE SALAD

243

WHITE ROCKS VEAL TARTARE WITH CURED YOLK AND MALT ONIONS

COCONUT-BRAISED BEEF WITH PICKLED CUCUMBER

247

ANDREW’S BURGER

197 KANG KATI

248

BEEF TARTARE, SSAMJANG, SMOKED MAYO, NASHI AND KOHLRABI

198 PHO BO

253

MUSTARD-CRUMBED CORNED BEEF, BRAISED GREENS AND LENTILS CORNISH PASTY

203

SMOKED BEEF SHORT RIBS

254

204

PERSIAN LENTIL TAGINE WITH SEVEN HILLS’ BRAISED GOAT, SMOKED HUMMUS AND DUKKAH-CRUSTED FETA

257

CORNISH PASTY CARNE ASADA TACOS

207 LAMB WITH CHIVES, YOGHURT AND NETTLE

261

VEAL TARTARE, SOURED CREAM, HORSERADISH, GINGER AND CELERY

208 12 HOUR PORK WITH MARJORAM

266

SAIGON BREAKFAST BANH MI

211

PORK BELLY RAMEN

269

SMOKED QUARK, SHER WAGYU, MT ZERO QUINOA, FORAGED GREENS

212

STEAK COOKED DIRECTLY ON THE COALS, WITH CHIMICHURRI

270

BRISKET BUNS

215

DUCK A L’ORANGE

273

WALLABY SKILLET

216

277

PAPPARDELLE WITH BRAISED RABBIT, MARJORAM AND HAZELNUTS

219

BBQ SHER WAGYU , MISO MUSTARD, PICKLED DAIKON AND GARDEN GREENS

Meat 147

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149

Alpine Victoria

Andrew’s Hamburgers Bottega

B’Stilla

Uncle

Andrew’s Hamburgers

150

Andrewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hamburgers

Easy Tiger

Uncle

151

Continues on page 173

Meatmaiden

SMOKED LAMB RIBS WITH WHITE BEAN PUREE AND ROSEMARY OIL SERVES: 4

METHOD

2 racks of lamb shoulder ribs or lamb riblets

LAMB

100 g cherry or hickory wood chips 2 bay leaves 1 carrot 5 sprigs of thyme

Place the whole lamb rib rack in a braising dish, bone-side up. Roughly chop the carrot, onion, celery and garlic and add to the dish. Coat the ribs with the chicken stock and add the whole sprigs of herbs. Cover with baking paper then wrap the dish with foil. Place in an oven pre-heated to 140°C and braise for 2 ½ hours until the ribs are soft but not falling apart. Remove from the liquid and place on a cooling rack.

1 sprig rosemary

Set up your BBQ or improvised smoker at a fairly low temperature (you don’t want to smoke the lamb ribs at more than 150°C). Add the wood chips to the burning charcoal or start them off in a container or on tin foil. Once the wood chips start to let off a bit of smoke place your ribs on the BBQ or rack above the smoke. Make sure you can seal the smoke in and then leave the lamb ribs for 20 minutes to take on all of the flavour of the wood chips. Remove and set aside to cool.

toasted breadcrumbs, to serve

WHITE BEAN PUREE

1 brown onion 1 head of garlic 2 L chicken stock 2 celery stalks

WHITE BEAN PUREE

200 g white haricot beans 2 bay leaves 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 lemon 100 ml extra virgin olive oil

Soak the beans overnight in water. Strain the beans and rinse under running water. Place the beans in a pot, cover with water and add the bay leaves. Cook the beans until soft, then strain, keeping some of the cooking liquid aside. Pour the beans into a food processer. Add the olive oil, garlic, and zest and juice of 1 lemon, and blitz to a smoothe puree. If the puree is too dry, add back some of the cooking liquid from the beans and season to taste.

Chef: Riki Day “You don’t need to own a massive smoker built by a bloke from Texas to replicate the flavours of American BBQ. Any backyard BBQ with a lid can work or you can create the same effect by sealing a large deep pan and placing your meat on a rack over burning wood chips on tin foil. This recipe requires the lamb ribs to be cooked, smoked then chilled before finishing on the grill or in the oven. It means they are tender in the middle, crisp on the outside, smoky and absolutely delicious.”

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Jonai Farms

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JonaiFarms

180

Andrew’s Hamburgers

ANDREW’S BURGER SERVES: 4

METHOD

680 g Black Angus forequarter mince, at a ratio of 80% meat to 20% fat

Season the beef mince well with salt and pepper and mix to combine. Shape into four 170 g patties, the same diameter as your burger buns. Set aside. Combine the lettuce and cabbage in equal quantities – this mixture ensures that the salad in the burger is always crisp.

salt and pepper 4 sesame seed burger buns 8 – 12 slices short, double smoked, rindless bacon 8 slices traditional cheddar cheese 1 onion, diced 4 eggs 8 – 12 thick slices tomato shredded lettuce shredded cabbage tomato sauce, to serve

Heat a large heavy-based frying pan, or hotplate to medium-high. Add a little oil and place your burger patties on the hotplate. Take a spoonful per burger of the diced onion and ‘smash’ it into the patty and cook. Place bacon in pan and start to cook. After about 5 minutes, flip the patty and place two slices of cheese on each burger (always double cheese!). Place the tomato slices on the hotplate to slightly grill and bring out the sweetness of the tomato. Slice your buns in half and place on the hotplate, cut side down, to toast gently. Crack eggs on to the hotplate and fry, sunny side up, until the white is set but the yolk is still a little runny. At Andrew’s, we serve our burgers cooked to medium, so the patty is still juicy and delicious, which should take 8 – 10 minutes total cooking time. Once the patty is cooked to your desired level of doneness, it is time to construct the burger. Place a handful of the salad mixture on the lightly toasted bottom bun, followed by the tomato slices. Place the patty on top, followed by the bacon. Place the egg on top of the bacon, finish with a squeeze of tomato sauce, and top with the bun.

Chef: Greg Pappas The simple things in life are often that best, and that’s certainly the case at Andrew’s Hamburgers. This family-run burger business has served up unpretentious, old-school burgers for over 75 years, and as a result finds itself on many a Melbourne ‘best-of’ list. This is the recipe for the classic “Andrew’s Burger” and though completely simple, there is just one rule – “Always double cheese!”.

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Small Victories

SMOKED QUARK, SHER WAGYU, MT ZERO QUINOA, FORAGED GREENS SERVES: 1 - 2

METHOD

200 g piece Sher Wagyu rump cap

SMOKED QUARK

salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper 100 g cooked Mt Zero organic quinoa organic radishes, thinly sliced foraged leaves such as: Dandelion, wild celery, wild mustard, wild radish SMOKED QUARK

350 g Shultz organic quark 150 g lukewarm water PICKLED RAISINS

300 g caster sugar 600 g white wine vinegar 250 g golden raisins

Spread the quark onto a small metal tray and cold smoke for 30 minutes or until a mild smoke flavour has been achieved. Using a small bowl, whisk the quark and water together until it resembles thick double cream. Season with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Scrape the mixture into a siphon gun and charge with 4 bulbs of has. Set aside at room temperature. PICKLED RAISINS

In a small saucepan over a medium flame, heat the sugar and a pinch of salt until a deep golden caramel is achieved. With great caution tip the vinegar into the pot and allow the sugar to melt. Once this has happened, tip the raisins into the pan and allow to soak for at least an hour. STEAK

Season the wagyu rump cap and season heavily with freshly ground black pepper and flaky sea salt. Place the meat on a char grill and cook until medium rare, then allow to rest in a warm place for 10 minutes. TO SERVE

Reheat the steak on chargrill. While this is happening, mix a couple of tablespoons of quinoa and a dozen pickled raisins with a little of the pickling liquid in a small bowl and set aside. Slice the steak across the grain into four or five pieces and season with a little salt. On a plate, siphon a small amount of smoked quark in three places and spoon the quinoa and raisin mix in between. Fan the steak and place on to the quinoa, then liberally scatter with the radishes and foraged leaves.

Chef: Alric Hansen â&#x20AC;&#x153;Small Victories opened with the hope of providing people with simple, well-prepared food with provenance. We make all that we can from scratch such as bacon from free-range Berkshire pork, yoghurt and butter from cream produced by Schultz organic dairy in Timboon, which is one of my favourite local producers. We also produce our own smoked salmon, black pudding and fermented products and in doing so I have been able to establish some great relationships with suppliers and growers. My most treasured relationships are with Vicki and Nick from Sher Wagyu, Shultz organic dairy and Sara Schreur who grows all our herbs and leaves. The inspiration for the dish was showcasing local and foraged ingredients that were all in season at the same time.â&#x20AC;?

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202

Tipo 00

PAPPARDELLE WITH BRAISED RABBIT, MARJORAM AND HAZELNUTS SERVES: 6

METHOD

750 g fresh Pappardelle

Pre-heat oven at 140°C. Heat a heavy-based, ovenproof saucepan on mediumhigh heat. Season the rabbit pieces with sea salt and lightly dust with the flour. Put the oil in the saucepan and brown the rabbit until golden on all sides, then set aside.

1 farmed rabbit, broken down into 6 pieces (ask your butcher to do this – we buy our fresh, farmed rabbit from Largo butchers in Fitzroy) 1 large brown onion, finely diced 4 sprigs marjoram 1 small bay leaf 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 250 ml dry white wine

Add the onions and sauté until translucent. Add the garlic, half the marjoram, bay leaf, and wine, and reduce by half. Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil. Season the stock with salt and return the rabbit pieces to the saucepan. Cover with a lid or foil and put In the oven for 90 minutes. Remove the rabbit from the sauce and allow to cool. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve into a large saucepan, return to the stove and reduce for 5 minutes. Pick the rabbit meat off the bones and return it to its sauce.

100 g of flour

Cook the pappardelle in plenty of boiling salted water until al dente, then drain and add to the rabbit and sauce. Add the rest of the marjoram, Parmesan, crushed hazelnuts and butter, and simmer for 1 minute until the sauce is thick and creamy.

100 ml olive oil

Serve in warm bowls, drizzled with hazelnut oil.

1.5 L chicken stock

100 g roasted hazelnuts, crushed 75 g grated Parmesan 50 g butter 6 tbsp hazelnut oil sea salt

Chef: Andreas Papadakis With it’s strong Italian population, Melbourne has more than it’s fair share of places to eat good pasta, but Tipo 00 is one of the best to settle in with a bowl al dente ribbons and a large glass of wine. As one publication put it, “carb-dodgers be damned”.

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Milawa Free Range Poultry

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209

Milawa Free Range Poultry

210

Chris Badenoch

STEAK COOKED DIRECTLY ON THE COALS, WITH CHIMICHURRI SERVES: 2 - 4

METHOD

600 g grass fed beef steak – porterhouse, hanger, flank etc

CHIMICHURRI

salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper ½ - 1 bunch oregano, leaves picked 1 bunch parsley, leaves picked 2 garlic cloves ½ tsp chilli flakes 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 3 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp lemon juice

Chop together the oregano and parsley as finely as possible and place in a jar or bowl. Mince the garlic and add to the herbs with the chilli flakes. Mix through half the vinegar, oil and lemon juice, season to taste, and adjust with more vinegar, oil and lemon juice to suit your taste. Set aside. STEAK

This is more of a technique than a recipe per se. First light the charcoal in a charcoal chimney until glowing white ash covers all the pieces. Dump the charcoal onto a gill or barbecue. Arrange the coals so that the surface area is a little larger than the size of the steak. Season both sides of the steak with a few healthy pinches of salt and a few cracks of pepper. Place the beef directly on the coals, then turn and finish cooking. For thick pieces of meat, cook for 3 – 4 minutes, and for thin pieces, 1 – 1 ½ minutes per side. You need to use your judgement here – after doing it a couple of times, you will get the hang of it and it will become the only way you cook steak! Remove the beef from the coals and wrap loosely in foil and allow to rest for approximately half the total cooking time. What you are looking for is a nicely charred piece of meat. It will look caramelised but also a little sooty from the coals, don’t worry this comes off and the coals won’t stick to the meat as they’re too hot. Slice the steak across the grain, season if necessary, and drizzle with a little chimichurri.

Chris Badenoch “After my restaurant Josie Bones was sold, my cooking took on a new focus: just really good produce, cooked simply with loads of flavour, and cooked outside on open coals if at all possible. This is the epitome of those three things – excellent grass fed beef, cooked directly on white-hot coals with nothing but proper seasoning and a swipe of tangy chimichurri for accompaniment.”

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255

THE TREATS HONEY DARK COCKTAIL

289

LEMON MYRTLE CHEESECAKE

327

THE OLD FASHIONED

290

CHARCOAL TART WITH LYCHEE, CHEDDAR CHEESE AND VEGEMITE

328

BITTER AND WHITE CHOCOLATES, MONTALTO PLUMS

293 ALMOND MILK PUDDING

332

BLOOD PLUM WAFFLES WITH VANILLA BEAN AND MASCARPONE

294

TROPICAL JOHNNY

335

297

VANILLA CHEESECAKE, MACERATED STRAWBERRY, SWEET BALSAMIC REDUCTION

339

RED VELVET CAKE DONUT FRENCH TOAST

301 COCONUT SAGO PUDDING

340

SORREL VIOLETS AND POTATO

305 ALMOND CROISSANTS

343

PAVLOVA

306 NICE BUNS

344

CHOCOLATE GANACHE WITH POACHED QUINCE, HAZELNUT FINANCIER, CHOCOLATE SOIL AND HAZELNUT ICE CREAM

309

MOJITO SORBETTO

313

ECCLES CAKE

316

CHOCOLATE, VIOLETS, LICORICE

319

SMOKED VANILLA ICE CREAM, LOCAL PRUNES, APPLE AND EPOISSES CHEESE

323

Dessert

The Everleigh Books for Cooks

Pidapipo

Gypsey & Musquito

Pidapipo

270

DuNord

Twenty & Six

Merricote

271

272

DuNord

HONEY DARK COCKTAIL SERVES: 1

METHOD

45 ml Irish whisky

Place the whisky, lemon juice and honey in a cocktail shaker and stir to combine. Add the egg white, and fill the shaker with ice. Shake very well to combine the flavours and to froth up the egg white. Strain into a chilled glass and serve, with Japanese black lager on the side to top up the glass.

25 ml fresh lemon juice 15 ml Rooftop honey egg white Japanese Black lager, to serve

NOTE: Rooftop Honey is an urban beekeeping company, harvesting honey from hives

dotted around Melbourneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s roofs, unused balconies and gardens.

Thomas Kiltorp DuNord is a cocktail bar all about Scandinavian style - a simple, modern approach to living, drinking and enjoying life. This drink started life as a classic whisky sour, but the flavour is amped up with the addition of locally harvested honey, and slightly smokey, almost savoury, black lager. This drink was designed to match with an earthy mushroom, barley and foraged herb dish, but it really stands on its own.

273

Books for Cooks

PAVLOVA SERVES: 8

METHOD

4 free-range egg whites, at room temperature

Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper and draw a 20 cm circle on the paper.

pinch of salt 250 g caster sugar 2 tsp cornflour 1 tsp white wine vinegar A few drops of pure vanilla 300 ml Schultz Organic Cream mixed berries mint leaves pomegranate seeds vanilla seeds

Beat egg whites and salt together until soft peaks form. Beat in the sugar, one third at a time, until the meringue mixture is stiff and glossy. Sprinkle the cornflour, vinegar and vanilla over the meringue mixture and fold in very gently. Spoon the meringue in to the centre of the circle, flattening and smoothing. Place the pav in the oven, then immediately reduce the heat to 150°C. Cook for 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature down to 120°C and cook for a further 45 minutes. Turn off the oven, leaving the pavlova inside, allowing it to cool completely (usually overnight). When ready to serve, add the vanilla seeds to the cream and whip firmly. Invert the pavlova and pile on the cream then top with the combined berries and pomegranate seeds. Garnish with fresh mint leaves.

Amanda White “Our kids are gourmands. They love the good things of life, have eaten in some very good restaurants and have well-developed skills as food critics. Having said all that they are living examples of the joy that can be found in the simple things in life. When asked for their favourite cake – “Pavlova”. Few homes in country Australia are without their favourite recipe for this classic, and the use of farm fresh free-range eggs, good cream and fruit at the peak of perfection make this so very hard to beat. To us the perfect meringue for a pavlova is crisp on the outside, with a soft and chewy center. Stephanie Alexander’s recipe from the wonderful The Cook’s Companion forms the basis of ours.”

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Continues on page 310

Ten Minutes by Tractor

CHOCOLATE GANACHE WITH POACHED QUINCE, HAZELNUT FINANCIER, CHOCOLATE SOIL AND HAZELNUT ICE CREAM SERVES: 2

METHOD

GANACHE

532 g cream

Add cream and quince juice to a pot on a medium heat. Bring the cream mixture to a simmer. Pour over the two chocolates and mix well. Allow to cool for 5 minutes then mix through the butter. Refrigerate until ready to use.

288 g dark chocolate 252 g milk chocolate 72 ml poached quince juice 40 g butter, chopped and softened CHOCOLATE SOIL

200 g sugar 200 g almond meal 120 g flour, sifted 50 g cocoa powder, sifted 170 g unsalted butter 15 g salt chopped rosemary HAZELNUT ICE CREAM

500 ml milk 500 ml cream 100 g hazelnut paste 90 g sugar

CHOCOLATE SOIL

Cream the butter and sugar together in a stand mixture at a medium speed. Add the almond meal, salt and rosemary. Sift together the cocoa powder and flour then slowly add to the mixer. Spread the crumble evenly over a large, lined baking tray. Place in a 180°C oven and cook until crunchy – approx. 8 – 10 minutes. HAZELNUT ICE CREAM

Heat the milk, cream and hazelnut paste in a pot on a medium heat for 5 minutes. Whisk together the yolks and sugar. Add a little of the milk mixture to the eggs then combine it all. Return to the heat and cook on a medium heat, stirring all the time, until the custard coats the back of a spatula. Cool completely and churn in an ice cream machine. HAZELNUT TUILLE

Mix all ingredients together thoroughly, then spread thinly on a lined baking tray. Place in 180°C oven and cook until just golden brown. POACHED QUINCE

Place all ingredients into a saucepan over medium heat and cover with a cartouche (paper lid). Simmer for 2 ½ hours until quince are tender.

10 egg yolks 2 leaves of gelatin, soaked in cold water for 5 minutes

Chef: Stuart Bell “Provenance, from the Latin ‘provenire’ meaning “to come from”, is, in our world, the essential component of who we are and what we do.” Not only do the wines produced by Ten Minutes by Tractor reflect the specific terroir of the Mornington Peninsula, so too does the food. The grounds of the property house a vast bowed quince tree, laden with fruit at the time of shooting this delectable dessert.

293

Books for Cooks

PAVLOVA SERVES: 8

METHOD

4 free-range egg whites, at room temperature

Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper and draw a 20 cm circle on the paper.

pinch of salt 250 g caster sugar 2 tsp cornflour 1 tsp white wine vinegar A few drops of pure vanilla 300 ml Schultz Organic Cream mixed berries mint leaves pomegranate seeds vanilla seeds

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292

Continues on page 310

Ten Minutes by Tractor

CHOCOLATE GANACHE WITH POACHED QUINCE, HAZELNUT FINANCIER, CHOCOLATE SOIL AND HAZELNUT ICE CREAM SERVES: 2

METHOD

GANACHE

532 g cream

288 g dark chocolate 252 g milk chocolate 72 ml poached quince juice 40 g butter, chopped and softened CHOCOLATE SOIL

200 g sugar 200 g almond meal 120 g flour, sifted 50 g cocoa powder, sifted 170 g unsalted butter 15 g salt chopped rosemary HAZELNUT ICE CREAM

500 ml milk 500 ml cream 100 g hazelnut paste 90 g sugar

CHOCOLATE SOIL

Mix all ingredients together thoroughly, then spread thinly on a lined baking tray. Place in 180°C oven and cook until just golden brown. POACHED QUINCE

Place all ingredients into a saucepan over medium heat and cover with a cartouche (paper lid). Simmer for 2 ½ hours until quince are tender.

10 egg yolks 2 leaves of gelatin, soaked in cold water for 5 minutes

293

Continued from page 309

Ten Minutes by Tractor

CHOCOLATE GANACHE WITH POACHED QUINCE, HAZELNUT FINANCIER, CHOCOLATE SOIL AND HAZELNUT ICE CREAM SERVES: 2

METHOD

HAZELNUT TUILLE

HAZELNUT FINANCIER

200 g peeled and chopped hazelnuts

Cream together butter, sugar and praline paste. Add the hazelnut meal, followed by the eggs. Mix together the plain flour, custard powder and baking powder and then add it to the butter mixture. Stir through the chopped nuts and Frangelico.

30 g plain flour 10 g cocoa powder 180 g sugar

Place batter into financier moulds and cook at 170°C for 20 – 25 minutes or until just cooked through. Cool on a wire rack.

140 g egg whites 2 tbsp hazelnut oil POACHED QUINCE

2 cinnamon sticks

TO SERVE

Place crumbled pieces of financier on the plate, then add the poached quinces and chocolate soil. Pipe the ganache around and add a spoonful of ice cream to the side. Drizzle quince syrup around the dish and top with the tuille.

1 vanilla bean, split 1 L water 300 g sugar zest of 1 orange zest of ½ lemon 20 g sliced ginger 2 quinces, peeled, cored and cut into 6 wedges HAZELNUT FINANCIER

200 g unsalted butter 150 g sugar 45 g hazelnut praline 200 g eggs 15 g Frangelico 75 g plain flour 35 g custard powder 3 g baking powder 100 g hazelnut meal 125 g toasted and chopped hazelnuts

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296

Pidapipó

MOJITO SORBETTO SERVES: 10 (scoops)

METHOD

200 g lime juice

Squeeze fresh lime juice, water and mint into a large container.

5 large mint leaves 507 g filtered still water 94 g dextrose 196 g sugar 2.5 g guar gum or carob bean powder

In a separate bowl, combine the sugar, dextrose, and guar gum or carob powder using a spoon. Slowly blend the sugar mixture into the lime juice bowl. Blend for about 5 minutes or until sugar dissolves and mint is in small pieces. Transfer mixture into an ice cream churner and churn until frozen. Transfer mixture to the freezer for 1 hour, before serving.

Chef: Lisa Valmorbida Pidapipo – named for an Italian version of Simon Says Lisa Valmorbida used to play with her nonno – was opened after years of experience in Melbourne’s best restaurants, a stint at Carpigiani Gelato University, and a hugely successful popup shop a year earlier. Along with filled brioche, Rooftop Honey, and an ever-flowing nutella fountain, Pidapipo has rotating cast of flavours made fresh daily using quality local produce.

297

Pidapip贸

298

299

Myrtleford Butter Factory

Rumi

ALMOND MILK PUDDING SERVES: 5

METHOD

1 L full cream milk

In a bowl, combine the dry ingredients with a whisk to free any lumps and to evenly distribute the rice flour.

100 g sugar 200 g almond meal 50 g rice flour 150 g crushed pistachios 1 jar rose jam (available from middle eastern grocers)

Place the milk into a large saucepan and set over a high heat to bring to the boil. Once it has come to the boil, dump the dry ingredients into the pot and whisk to combine. Once combined, drop the whisk and switch to a heat-proof spatula. To achieve best results, turn the heat down to medium and stir continuously until it thickens and coats the back of the spatula. Once thick, pour into an ice bath and allow to cool, stirring occasionally with the spatula to maintain an even consistency and prevent a skin forming. Once cool, set aside. Crush pistachios in a mortar and pestle a handful at a time to achieve best results. Alternatively, chop nuts on a chopping board. Layer the puddings in glasses, spooning almond mixture in over three layers adding two layers of rose jam, and topping it with crushed pistachios.

Chef: Joseph Abboud A classic Rumi dessert, the Almond Milk Pudding is elegant and distinctly Middle Eastern with a topping of rose jam and pistachio.

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317

Red Beard Bakery

NICE BUNS SERVES: 30 BUNS

METHOD

DOUGH

Combine the dough ingredients thoroughly, and transfer to a container. Cover and allow to rise in a warm place for 2 hours (if using leaven) or 30 minutes (if using yeast).

500 ml warm water 600 g plain bread flour 150 g wholewheat bread flour 75 g leaven (or 1 tbsp dried yeast) 20g salt 300 g mashed potato ADDITIONS

200 ml hot milk 200 g currants 200 g sugar

Meanwhile, soak the currants, sugar and spices in hot milk for about 15 – 30 minutes. Stir the extra flour through the spicy fruit mix to form a paste. Fold the fruit paste, eggs and butter through dough until well combined, then let the dough rise in a warm place for another 2 hours (sourdough) or 30 minutes (yeasted). Cut the dough into 30 x 100 g pieces and roll into balls. Place the balls of dough on to baking trays, cover with a dry tea towel and leave to rise again for 2 ½ hours. Preheat oven to 220°C. Brush the buns with a little egg wash and sprinkle with raw sugar. Bake the buns for 15 minutes, or until the bases are browned and the buns are cooked through.

2 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp cloves 400 g extra flour 150 g butter, softened 2 free range eggs egg wash (egg beaten with a little milk) raw sugar

Alan Reid At Red Beard, the loaves are certified organic, shaped by hand, and baked in a woodfired oven built in 1891 – one of only a handful of Scotch oven still operating in Australia. Red Beard’s sourdough wort was created around 25 years ago from wild yeast and lactose bacteria harvested from potato skins – a traditional Northern European technique. These gently spiced, slightly sweet buns, are one of the more popular items sold at the bakery, and certainly live up to their descriptor!

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329

WHAT IS UPSIDE? Upside believes in the power of enterprise to promote village development. Upside is an Australian registered charity working with partners in Nepal to provide the training and seed capital required to build social businesses in remote villages. They are currently working with the village of Ghiling to establish a 2,000-tree apple orchard, which aims to generate a sustainable source of income to fund the operations of the local village school. Upside has been generously supported by donations from the Australian community for the past 6 years, and it is now time that they take some of their own advice and develop a social business that will sustainably fund the work they are so passionate about.

upside GROWING SUSTAINABILITY IN NEPAL

UPSIDE AND FORAGE Forage is an initiative born from our time in Nepal. The seed was planted mid-mouthful of curry during our visit to a remote village we had befriended in the Himalayas. While in Nepal, we were inspired by the direct connection between the people, the land, and their food system. In Victoria we have an unparalleled food scene but we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the opportunity to engage with farmers and the land that provides our food, and we saw an opportunity to share the best of both worlds. We want to share the land to plate connection with the Australian people, and in turn, through partnership with Australian charity Upside Nepal, support village development through agriculture enterprise in Nepal. Forage aims to raise $100K for Upside Nepal.

332

THE TEAM

(Above counter-clockwise)

Calum Foulner Julia Jenkins Stine Kristoffersen Jessica Shaver

Upside Founder Project Manager and Editor Graphic Design Photographer

333

FORAGE LOVES Cal Foulner Jessica Shaver Stine Kristoffersen Julia Jenkins

Freya Shearer Robert Baker Debbie Cash Will Keall Anna McNaughton Rob Alderman Kate Christou Jack Viner Mark Hohnen Mei Wen Chiu Chi Wen Mark Balfour Domenic Tartaglia Penelope Lane Julian Sallabank Marcus Veerman Carmen La Cava Deryck Foulner Steve Richardson Tehya Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Hara Richard Everest Tashi Wheeler Tony Wheeler Tiffany Johnson

Will Egan Coz Stewart Scott Runacres Tom Clapin Alla Wolf Tasker AM Chris Badenoch Scott Bennett West and Max Bennett Laura and Mark Warren Sebastian Jenkins Megan and Taylan Atar Barry Davis Martin Webster Heidi Williams Patrizia Simone Tammi and Stuart Jonas Lou Chalmer and Renee Trudeau Paolo Arlotta and Paul Miragliotta

Every single restaurant, chef, farmer, producer, foodie, friend, and family member that had a hand in making this book happen.

Geoff Stewart Lynden Prince

Thank You

338

A ANDREW’S BURGERS Andrew’s Burger 197 AUCTION ROOMS Farro and Quinoa Salad with Candy Beetroots and Winter Purslane 108 Persian Lentil Tagine with Seven Hills’ Braised Goat, Smoked Hummus and Dukkah-crusted Feta 257

B B’STILLA

CHRIS BADENOCH

ESTELLE BISTRO

Steak cooked directly on the coals, with Chimichurri

Burrata, Heirloom Tomato and Black Garlic

270

115

CIRCA

Wagyu Porterhouse and Short Rib with Mushroom Ketchup

Snapper with Celeriac and Sorrel

220

46 White Rocks Veal Tartare with Cured Yolk and Malt Onions 193

CLEVER POLLY’S

FOXEY’S HANGOUT

Scallops with Charred Sweet Corn Salsa, Gazpacho and Aji Amarillo

Tomato, Mint and Goats Curd Salad

Vinocotto Figs with Prosciutto

Wallaby Carpaccio, Pickled Rhubarb, Peppercorn Mayo and Macadamia

157

181

146

Chargrilled Octopus, Tahini Remoulade, Salt & Vinegar Saltbush

Mussel Pancake and Green Mango Salad

Greenvale Farm Jumbuck Mechoui with Parsnip Puree and Cumquats

Betel Leaves, Pineapple, Pork, Prawn & Peanut Salad

169

190

GYPSEY & MUSQUITO

BLACK STUMP BISTRO

CUMULUS INC

Wallaby Skillet

Murray Cod with Potato Puree

GLADIOLI Lamb with Chives, Yoghurt and Nettle 261

Burrata, Witlof, Watercress and Date

216

102

Lemon Myrtle Cheesecake

BOOKS FOR COOKS

Pastrami, Pickles and Rye

327

Pavlova

177

306

Polish Style Borsch

111

DOC PIZZA & MOZZARELLA BAR

12 Hour Pork with Marjoram

Pizza DOC

266

145

BUILDERS ARMS

Fig, Gorgonzola and Prosciutto Pizza

BORSCH VODKA & TEARS

Mustard-crumbed Corned Beef, Braised Greens and Lentils 203

235

153

Crispy Murray Cod with Green Papaya Salad and Chilli & Lime Dressing

Sashimi of Port Phillip Bay Rock Flathead, Koo Wee Rup Asparagus, Yuzu Kosho, Radish and Avocado

Buffalo Haloumi, Fresh Fig, Honey and Lime dressing

HUXTABLE

Smoked Vanilla Ice Cream, Local Prunes, Apple and Epoisses Cheese

CHARLIE DUMPLING

Honey Dark Cocktail 289

Char-grilled Octopus, Salicorn, Black Tarama

DUNORD

BURCH & PURCHESE

323

HELLENIC REPUBLIC

Duck pancakes

239

JIM MCDOUGALL AT STEFANO’S

Coconut-braised Beef with Pickled Cucumber

Kangaroo curing on a Salt Block with Wild Mustard Ice Cream

247

174

EASY TIGER

JIM MCDOUGALL AT STEFANO’S Beer Bread, Saltbush Butter and Truffle Buttermilk 97

K KINFOLK Sauté of Wild Cardoons with Marjoram, Mozzarella sauce, Eggplant Ink, Wild Fennel, foraged weeds and flowers 123 KUMO IZAKAYA Pan-seared Scallops with Soy Butter, Spring Onion and Bonito Flakes 79 Kakuni (traditional Japanese braised pork belly) wrapped in Puff Pastry 231

Vanilla Cheesecake, Macerated Strawberry, Sweet Balsamic Reduction 339 MATT DONNELLY/ MUSHROOMS ANONYMOUS Prawns with Wild Garlic 29 MEATMAIDEN Lobster Mac and Cheese 84

PATRIZIA SIMONE Wild Spinach Bruschetta 101 PHO NOM Saigon Breakfast Banh Mi 211 Pho Bo 253

Smoked Lamb Ribs with White Bean Puree and Rosemary Oil

PIDAPIPO

170

Mojito Sorbetto

MERRICOTE

313

Hay custard, Port Arlington Mussels and dill

PIERRE ROELOFS

34 Sorrel, Violet and Potato 305

Tropical Johnny 335 PROUD MARY

MIDDLE FISH

Asparagus, Peas, Broad Beans, Sheeps’ Milk & Seeds

Kang Kati

105

LA TORTILLERIA

248

Morita Fish Taco

MONTALTO

Grilled Ox Tongue, Peppers, Leeks, Smoked Almonds, Chopped Egg and Jerusalem Artichoke Chips

“Garden Salad” of Grilled Fennel, Carrot, Barley and Main Ridge Dairy Cashmere

Carne Asada Tacos 00 LAKE HOUSE DAYLESFORD

120

186

Pot-roasted, lacquered Rare-breed Wiltshire horned Leg of Lamb, with Caraway and Black Garlic

RED BEARD BAKERY

227

Nice Buns

319

Bitter and White Chocolates, Montalto Plums

344

LUNE CROISSANTERIE

293

Almond Croissants

MOON UNDER WATER

Rivers and Lakes 54 Chocolate, Violets, Licorice

343

ROCKWELL & SONS Cured Scallops with Rhubarb Ponzu 15

Romanesco, Whipped Pine Nut, Burnt Butter and Garlic

Beef Tartare, Ssamjang, Smoked Mayo, Nashi and Kohlrabi

136

198

MRS PARMAS

RUMI

MAJOR MAJOR

BBQ Parma

Spanner Crab Omelette

236

Burnt Eggplant with Garlic Yoghurt, Fresh Tomato and Spanish Onion

M 76 Tarragon Mushrooms with Poached Egg on Nettle Puree 149 MAPLE TREE Flinders Island Lamb, Drysdale Goat Chevre, Tomato, Lemon, Mint, Olive 240

139

Almond Milk Pudding

NORA

Charcoal Tart with Lychee, Cheddar Cheese and Vegemite 328

332

SEVEN SEEDS

TANI EAT AND DRINK

Coffee-roasted Carrot Salad with Ricotta

Fresh Goats Curd, Candied Olives, Nasturtium, Grains and Seeds

Pappardelle with Braised Rabbit, Marjoram and Hazelnuts 219

135

124

TIVOLI RD BAKERY

Blood Plum Waffles with Vanilla Bean and Mascarpone

TEN MINUTES BY TRACTOR

294

Salad of Red Hill Somers Soft Goats Cheese with Pickled Carrot, Cracked Freekeh, Walnut Vinaigrette and Carrot Emulsion

Eccles Cakes 316

SHOP RAMEN Brisket Buns 215 Pork Belly Ramen 269

112 Chocolate Ganache with Poached Quince, Hazelnut Financier, Chocolate Soil and Hazelnut Ice Cream

Cornish Pasties 204 THE TOWN MOUSE Veal Tartare, Soured Cream, Horseradish, Ginger and Celery 208

SHORT STOP DONUTS

309

TWENTY & SIX

Red Velvet Cake Donut

THE ARGUS

French Toast

297

Cured Saikou Salmon, Buttermilk, Salted and Pickled Turnips and Radishes

SILVER CREEK SMOKERS Smoked Beef Short Ribs

254

BBQ Sher Wagyu , Miso Mustard, Pickled Daikon and Garden Greens

SIMONE’S

277

Cannelloni con Spinaci, Funghi e Mozzarella – Cannelloni with Ricotta, Pine Mushrooms, Spinach and Mozzarella

THE ATLANTIC

150 SMALL VICTORIES Smoked Quark, Sher Wagyu, Mt Zero Quinoa, Foraged Greens 212 ST ALI Coconut Sago Pudding 340 Corn Fritters 140 ST CRISPIN Salmon, Blood Orange, Sea Vegetables, Witlof and Cucumber 16 SUPERNORMAL

U,W,Z UNCLE Black Rice, Quinoa, Egg 158

Hiramasa Kingfish Tartar, Tomato Jelly, Tomato Sorbet and Marinated Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil Balsamic Gel

Pigs Ears Banh Mi

WOODLAND HOUSE

Confit Ora King Salmon, Cassoulet of Beans, Saffron and Chorizo, Slow Cooked Octopus, Squid Ink Crackers, and Fino Sherry Sauce

Smoked Oyster, Abalone, Compressed Cucumber and Samphire

Flinders Island Lamb, Sea Succulents, Pickled Walnuts

THE COMMONER Kingfish, Fresh Curd, Pickled Onions and Sorrel 53 Striped Trumpeter, Scorched Almond, Baby Fennel, Brassica 63 THE EUROPEAN Tuna Nicoise 64

Duck a l’orange 273

Tomato salad, yuzu koshu, silken tofu

THE EVERLEIGH

154

The Old Fashioned 290

TIPO00

Sea Bream, White Soy and Ginger

301

Asparagus Tortelloni with Parmesan Sauce and Sage 128

178

232 ZIGFRIDS Calamari with Kipflers, Chorizo and Green Goddess Dressing 83 Beer-braised Sher Wagyu Brisket with Pickled Peach and Kale Salad 243

FIRST PUBLISHED IN 2015 BY FORAGE PUBLISHING Level 3, 673 Bourke Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000 www.foragecookbook.com Upside Founder – Calum Foulner Project Manager and Editor – Julia Jenkins Photographer – Jessica Shaver Graphic Design – Stine Kristoffersen Text copyright © 2015 the contributors Photography copyright © 2015 Jessica Shaver Photograph of Alla Wolf Tasker AM pages 5, 54 and 299 all rights reserved Lake House Daylesford Photograph of Sachiko Makihara pages 45, 193 all rights reserved La Tortilleria Photograph of Daniel Wilson page 76 all rights reserved Huxtable Photograph of Jerry and David Mai pages 197, 239 all rights reserved Pho Nom Photograph of Jarrod Hudson pages 225, 233 all rights reserved Easy Tiger Photograph of Chris Badenoch page 252 all rights reserved Chris Badenoch Cover image - Hellenic Republic All rights reserved. Without limiting rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of the book. While this publication has been prepared with due care and diligence, Forage Publishing has not tested and tried any recipe and is not liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions or typographical errors. Forage Publishing has accepted these recipes in good faith and therefore no responsibility is accepted by Forage Publishing for any breach of copyright nor will it be liable to any person for any loss or injury arising from their use of any recipe. Designed by © Stine Kristoffersen Cataloguing-in-Publication data is available from the National Library of Australia Forage: A Culinary Journey through Victoria ISBN: 978-0-646-94380-0 Printed by 1010 Printing International Limited in 2015 PRINTED IN CHINA

Carbon emissions associated with the paper, printing, freight and disposal of this book have been offset

344

This cookbook is a love letter to the state of Victoria. With the valuable support of over 80 top chefs, cooks, restaurants, producers and other food folk sharing their recipes and stories of farm to plate, this book captures a snapshot of the food industry as it is right now; a celebration of excellence and inspiration. Forage has criss-crossed the state of Victoria on an epic 3,000 km road trip visiting the people and places that make this state’s culinary scene one of the world’s most diverse and exciting. Your copy of Forage has the added benefit of sharing the spoils with local charity Upside Nepal, supporting subsistence farmers to develop their own enterprises that will benefit their remote villages in Nepal. FROM THE ENTIRE TEAM AT FORAGE, THANK YOU AND ENJOY FORAGE VICTORIA.

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