Fort Worth Weekly // July 19-25, 2023

No Room to Breathe

Many residents of one River Oaks retirement complex are suffering from assorted health problems due to alleged neglect.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY JASON BRIMMER

EATS & DRINKS

Jackie O’s combines style and sophistication with comfortability on the Near Southside.

BY EDWARD BROWN

ART

The new Meow Wolf installation in Grapevine is quite a trip.

BY COLE WILLIAMS

SCREEN

The subversive Barbie may just represent Margot Robbie’s turn of a lifetime.

BY KRISTIAN LIN

MUSIC

With Shine Eye Yell, singersongwriter Caleb Stanislaw praises famous men and his new rural Arkansas home.

BY PATRICK HIGGINS

By

Brown

By Kristian Lin

Howling Good

By Cole Williams

Anthony Mariani, Editor

Lee Newquist, Publisher

Bob Niehoff, General Manager

Ryan Burger, Art Director

Jim Erickson, Circulation Director

Edward Brown, Staff Writer

Emmy Smith, Proofreader

Michael Newquist, Regional Sales Director

Jennifer Bovee, Marketing Director

Stacey Hammons, Senior Account Executive

Julie Strehl, Account Executive

Tony Diaz, Account Executive

Wyatt Newquist, Digital Coordinator

Clintastic, Brand Ambassador

CONTRIBUTORS

Christina Berger, E.R. Bills, Jason Brimmer, Buck D. Elliott, Juan R. Govea, Patrick Higgins, Laurie James, Kristian Lin, Vishal Malhotra, Cody Neathery, Wyatt Newquist, Madison Simmons, Steve Steward, Teri Webster, Ken Wheatcroft-Pardue, Cole Williams

EDITORIAL BOARD

Anthony Mariani, Edward Brown, Emmy Smith

Agave Spirits: Tequila-ish Booze Made Right Here in Texas

BY JENNIFER BOVEE

Tequila connoisseurs will tell you that tequila is only tequila if made in the city of Tequila in the central-western Mexican state

of Jalisco. Except for distillers who import tequila and finish it in special barrels, anything else distilled from an agave plant in America is an “agave spirit.” At the Weekly, we like to #KeepItLocal as often as possible, so I’ve compiled a list of agave spirits for your consideration this National Tequila Day (Monday), two of which are from North Texas.

1.) Named for the open-air market on the North Side, La Pulga Spirits (5300 Pershing Av, Fort Worth, 817-330-4267) was founded by market owner Andrew De La Torre, Sarah Castillo (Taco Heads, Tinies), and real estate developer Stephen Slaughter, all Fort Worth natives. These spirits are hand-crafted with no additives, coloring, or concentrates, “just the heart of blue agave and the soul of the land,” and made using traditional methods. To find where these products are sold, visit LaPulga.com and click “Find La Pulga.” It’s worth noting that this is the only agave spirit made in Fort Worth.

2.) Originally known as Witherspoon Distillery, BENDT Distilling Co. (225 S Charles St, Lewisville, 214-814-0545) has been creating whiskey and bottled cocktails since 2012. BENDT experiments with other spirits, including agave, brandy, gin, rum, and more, through its Old Town Spirits line, available only at the distillery. BENDT makes its Texas Agave Spirit on a special, seasonal basis, using pure Mexican agave syrup, and describes it as “earthy and vegetal.” The distillery recommends sipping it neat with a splash of lime or used in your favorite margarita. Check out the facilities 6pm-10pm Sat at BENDT’s 11th-anniversary party. There is no cost to attend, but you will need reservations via BENDTDistillingCo.com.

3.) In a border town along the Rio Grande River in South Texas, Ancestral Crafts Spirits (702 Portscheller St, Roma, 956-8443048) is making three distinct agave spirits from secret recipes that have been in the family since 1742. The number in the names indicates the years the spirit was aged. Blasfemus 7 offers a woody sweetness derived from smoky agave with hints of cinnamon and blackberry. Blasfemus 11 has coconut and vanilla notes, and Blasfemus 17 has an exotic spice flavor, floral notes, and bittersweet agave finish. The products are not available for purchase at retailers yet, so keep an eye on Instagram.com/BlasfemusTexas for updates on tasting events.

4.) In the Hill Country town of Fredericksburg, Iron Goat Distillery (830-307-4357, @IronGoatDistillery) is making a variety of specialty rums and spirits, including the Iron Goat Agave Spirit. Tastings are by appointment, but you can also buy bottles at Total Wine & More in Austin and San Antonio.

5.) Named for the Coastal Bend legend of the Lechuza Witch, who haunts the night and lures men with her evil charms in South Texas, La Lechuza Agave Spirit is twice distilled from 100% blue agave. It is slightly sweet with notes of citrus lime and a hint of salt. La Lechuza purchases the agave nectar in the Rio Grande Valley, then distills and bottles it at Coastal Bend Distilling (201 N Madison Av, Beeville, 361-492-5846), just north of Corpus Christi. There are two batches to choose from, each made with a different type of yeast during fermentation. Batch No 1. is smooth, and 750ml bottles are $70. Batch No 2 is more like tequila, and bottles are $55. For now, bottles can be purchased only onsite in the Coastal Bend Tasting Room. For updates on future retail availability, visit CoastalBendDistillingCo.com.

6.) Founded in 2006 by Kelly and Matthew Railean, Railean Distillery (341 5th St, San Leon, 713-545-2742) was Texas’ first legal rum distillery. Located in an area south of Houston which calls itself “a small drinking community with a large fishing problem,” Railean offers locals and tourists hand-crafted spirits and cocktails to enjoy at home or in the distillery’s Caribbean-vibe atmosphere. (Think: pirates.) Along with the rum, vodka, and whiskey already in production, agave spirits were added in 2009, making Railean the first Texas distillery to do so. Options include the basic Railean Blue Agave Silver and two premium spirits that have been aged longer, including the Railean Blue Agave Reposado (aged 10 months) and the Railean Blue Agave Anejo (aged three years). For more info, visit Railean.com.

7.) The folks at Maverick Distillery (115 Broadway, San Antonio, 210-447-7010) are bottling Samuel Maverick Agave Blanco, which is distilled from 100% blue agave nectar. The distillery says this spirit has “a nose of dry white wine, apple blossom, and white pepper, with a palate reminiscent of green fruit and honeysuckle.” The 750ml bottles are priced at $40 and can be shipped from MaverickWhiskey.com/Spirits. It’s also available at area Spec’s locations and Crockett Street Bottle Shop (2805 Crockett St, Fort Worth, 817-585-1555).

8.) Right outside of Austin, Leanderthal Distilling (11894 Hero Way West, Leandor, 512-697-9127) is producing its TexAgave Blue Agave Spirit, which can be purchased at two Spec’s locations in Austin or at the distillery. Hand-crafted and the perfect complement to any margarita flavor as it’s not overpowering, the spirit, Spec’s says, also has “tropical notes of coconut and vanilla riding on a foundation of roasted agave, the pleasantly mild aroma and flavor [giving] way to a firm but smooth finish.” North Texans make a lot of trips back and forth to Austin, so a distillery tour may be in order next time. Check out their upcoming events at Facebook.com/LeanderthalDistilling.

By Jennifer Bovee

Try the only agave spirit made in Fort Worth at La Pulga.

Courtesy La Pulga Spirits

ART

Lost in The Real Unreal

The Santa Fe art collective Meow Wolf orchestrates a mindbending experience in Grapevine.

BY COLE WILLIAMS

Inside Grapevine Mills is a house. Inside that house is a refrigerator. Inside that fridge is a room full of more fridges. And inside those fridges are … well, to say any more would be to spoil the experience, because Meow Wolf has come to Texas. The famed Santa Fe art collective has enlisted national and local artists to take viewers on a fantastical trip of art, story, and experience. Opening last week in what was once a Bed Bath & Beyond, The Real Unreal is a brand-new permanent installation that follows similar pieces in Denver and Las Vegas.

Beginning with entry into what looks like any suburban home, Unreal’s narrative follows young Jared Fuqua and mother LaVerne, who have recently relocated to the home of family friends the Delaneys. However, Jared has gone missing, and viewers will be taken on a journey from places such as fairy tale-like forests to time-stuck laboratories to discover what happened to him, enjoying and analyzing paintings and sculptures along the way.

Unreal begins with viewers guided by employees called “portal keepers” into what seems like an everyday suburban home that just happens to be inside a mall. Further exploration leads to things that shouldn’t be there. An apiary contains what looks like the eggs of some eldritch abomination. A cupboard crawls with ants making sculptures out of sugar. Paintings of paletas with monster faces adorn entire walls. All are works of art by artists from around the country, more than 30 of them from Texas.

However, the story can be completely ignored, and viewers can experience the art for themselves as they travel the largely nonlinear, and sometimes disorienting, layout of the installation. The narrative’s “child lost in a fantasyland” feeling doesn’t just pull

from places like Stranger Things and Alice in Wonderland. It makes the viewer feel as if they’re lost in entirely different worlds. The Front Yard and the Delaney House seem normal enough, with tidbits of story laid out in journals and on computers, but they quickly give way to places like the Glowquarium, an installation that’s like if an aquarium did too much acid, and the Lamp Shop Alley, a standout location that recalls the dystopian storefronts of Blade Runner mixed with the Troll Market from Hellboy 2. Thankfully, there are plenty of portal keepers around to provide hints for the story or to guide weary viewers toward the exit. It’s also obvious that a lot of keepers are having the time of their lives working there, at least so far.

And the art filling each location fits the location’s theme well and goes a long way toward adding to the overall story. “Macrodose,” a massive sculpture from Dallas’ Dan Lam that can best be described as a gorgeous melting rainbow, occupies an entire segment of the Glowquarium, feeling like both a living segment of another reality dropped in ours as well as something from dreams made solid, perfectly fitting within the installation’s title. Then there are the more interactive elements, such as “Payphone” by Meow Wolf artist Maxwell Cohn. Looking like a once-ordinary payphone, albeit with a multitude of various wires connecting it to who knows where, it actually can connect to a phone inside the house, allowing viewers to relay tips and information on the story to one another, or you can dial one of the many phone numbers on advertisements and graffiti, allowing you to, say, dial up public-domain karaoke songs from the 1910s.

As for how the story integrates with the surroundings and how the art fits into a unified theme, it can feel a little disjointed at times if viewers aren’t paying attention to how the works relate to Jared and his family’s journey. Viewers will get a lot from just the sheer extreme gorgeousness and creativity of the installations and pieces, but they’ll also get more the more they look into the story and the more they think on what each piece means to its location. In that regard, it is much like a museum, or even an openworld video game, where the amount of joy one gets is relative to the amount of work put in. In that way, a simple two-hour viewing will provide a dazzling excursion, but a three- to four-hour analysis will prove far more memorable.

The Real Unreal, despite its “throw everything at the wall” initial appearance, reveals a deep, beautiful experience for those willing to take the journey. And even for those who just want to walk around and see some crazy art, it’s more than worth the price of admission. l

Meow Wolf: The Real Unreal Grapevine Mills, 3000 Grapevine Mills Pkwy, Grapevine. Starting at $45 per person. 866-636-9969.

No Room to Breathe

Many residents of one River Oaks retirement complex are suffering from assorted health problems due to alleged neglect.

STORY AND PHOTOS

BY JASON BRIMMER

Peggy Jo Dodson is short of breath.

“This is supposed to be a place to retire,” she says, sitting on the edge of her small bed. Pressing a clear plastic nebulizer mask to her face, she breathes in as deeply as she can before saying, “We aren’t retiring here. We are fighting to survive here.”

For the last eight years, Peggy Jo has been a resident at Fair Oaks, a low-income retirement apartment complex in River Oaks owned by Fort Worth Housing Solutions (FWHS) and managed by RPM. Every day she takes four nebulizer treatments just to keep breathing. Above her head, no more than 6 feet away, is an air vent so covered in black mold that the vertical vent slats are no longer discernable from the black ductwork behind, making it look more like a hole than a vent. In between puffs from her oxygen mask, Peggy looks up at the black vent. “That’s why there are so many sick people here, because of that black mold. I know it is.”

Peggy takes a last lungful of nebulizer fog and sets her mask down.

“Before I came here, I was basically in good shape,” she said. “I could get around just fine. I could walk way down to Walmart.”

Now Peggy claims that it’s a struggle to get from the rear parking lot to the front door. “Do you know what it’s like to push a bunch of groceries along in a walker? Most of us have COPD, you know. I have to take six, seven breaks just to get to the front doors.”

All of Fair Oaks’ residents have button-shaped key fobs that will open the front door, and, in years past, the same key would open all of the back and stairwell doors too. Recently, these exterior doors have been locked, allowing the residents to exit but not reenter. Since there are only 16 parking spaces in the front of a complex that contains more than 70 units, most of the senior and disabled residents are forced to park behind the building and walk around to the front.

Peggy switches off her breathing machine, picks a key ring off the table, and rubs her thumb across the small gray fob. The A/C unit in Peggy’s room kicks on, pushing a puff of hot air out of the blackhole air vent.

“Things here just don’t make no damn sense,” Peggy says.

FWHS staff said they are unaware of any tenant or RPM reports of mold or suspected mold at this property.

Bobby White is a 68-year-old retired educator who has lived at Fair Oaks for 17 years. Complications from diabetes have cost him one leg and the toes on his other foot, leaving him wheelchair-bound. As Bobby steers his chair through his front door and around a tight corner, the sound of metal scraping against drywall is audible. Bobby jerks his chair to a stop, backs up, and pivots slightly in a herky-jerky way before making another go at the corner. Bits of paint flake off and some drywall dust streaks across the front of his chair.

Bobby laughs in a good-natured way, remarking, “I used to hit this leg on that corner,” shifting in his chair and indicating where his right leg once was, “but not anymore.”

Bobby’s left leg is another story. A tangle of scars and cuts and bruises stretches across his knee, indicating where his leg scrapes the wall with every turn.

After scraping his way through two more too-tight corners, Bobby comes to a stop beside his bed. On the table beside him, resting on a piece of scrap paper, is a tiny brown-black bedbug, curled up and dead. You can see them coming up out of the drains in the sinks and the bathtubs, other residents have said. Don’t sit on any of that furniture in the lobby, I was warned. They’re

there, too. One resident puts strips of scotch tape over her electrical outlets to keep the bedbugs out. Every so often she changes the tape, which usually has at least one or two dead bugs stuck to it.

“You know, I’ve had to throw away furniture because of these pests,” Bobby says, looking down at the dead bug. “One couch and three beds got thrown away. I was up in a different unit and had to move down here because the infestation was so bad. Even after the most recent spray, I have seen some bugs, even been bitten.”

Ever since I first stepped inside Fair Oaks, the residents have talked to me about three things: the mold, the bedbugs, and the elevators. Peggy has the worst mold problem, I am told, and Carrol knows about the elevators.

In her cramped kitchen, Carrol, who has lived at Fair Oaks for four years, pulls a package of ground beef out of the microwave. She is busy making meatloaf. They all love her meatloaf, she assures me. When I ask about the elevators, she stops cooking and braces herself against the cluttered counter.

“I am on the elevator, going down,” Carrol says, “and it stops, the doors open, and I go to get off. As I’m stepping off, the elevator drops down, about 8 inches, and stops. My foot catches, and I fall. I go unconscious for a few minutes.”

Carrol claims to have laid there on the floor for at least 20 minutes before two residents found her.

“These two men are wheelchair-bound,” Carrol says, turning away from her cooking and speaking slowly, emphatically, “wheelchair-bound, you understand, and they get up out of their chairs and bend down on their knees, holding one hand on their chairs and hooking the other hand under my arms, and they lift me up. My leg was so swollen and covered in bruises that you wouldn’t believe. That elevator has been broken constantly since I lived here. The week after I fell, my neighbor fell. They had to call the ambulance and get her to the hospital.”

Carrol claims that Fair Oaks management never took an accident report.

“You can’t just sit there and not take a report about something like this,” Carrol says, “so I went and got me an attorney. So did my neighbor, same attorney.”

FWHS said the elevators are “routinely serviced and inspected by a third-party vendor. We cannot comment on pending litigation.”

Carrol goes back to mixing her meatloaf before adding that the elevators are not the only things broken at Fair Oaks.

“I went 20 days without air-conditioning last February,” Carrol says. “Twenty days. I kept track of how hot it was in my apartment. I wrote the temperatures down. It never got bellow 82 and was usually above 90.”

When asked what could be done to fix the problem, Carrol replies simply, “Tear it all down and start over.” l

continued on page 10

During her eight-year stay at Fair Oaks, Peggy Jo Dodson has seen her health decline. On her table is a portion of the medications that she must take every day.

Carrol Michaels, who was injured when the elevator malfunctioned, claimed that she was left on the floor for more than 20 minutes before she was found.

Many of the residents have COPD or other breathing difficulties, which are exacerbated by the frequent A/C failures. Kim found herself “gasping for air” and looking for her emergency inhaler when her A/C failed to cool her apartment.

Peggy

blames the mold on her vent for her current breathing problems.

Seen from the outside, Fair Oaks seems like a lovely place.

Jo

Robert Motherwell: Pure Painting

June 4–September 17

Robert Motherwell: Pure Painting is the first presentation in more than a quarter century to fully examine the mastery of Robert Motherwell (1915–1991), a major figure who shaped postwar art.

The exhibition features a selection of visually compelling works chosen from throughout the artist’s lengthy and influential career. Beginning with the abstracted-figurative works that dominated Motherwell’s first decade of painting as he emerged in the New York art world in the early 1940s, the exhibition highlights the subsequent key series that defined his oeuvre, offering new insights into his evolution as an artist.

Bobby White’s prosthetic leg weighs 20 pounds. He is waiting for a new, lighter prosthetic, one that will hopefully free him from his wheelchair.

assortment of bedbug insecticide can be found

almost every apartment in Fair Oaks.

The exhibition is organized by the The Metropolitan Museum of Art and Kimbell Art Museum. It is supported in part by the William and Catherine Bryce Memorial Fund, the Texas Commission on the Arts, and the Fort Worth Tourism Public Improvement District.

Marion Compton, who is immobile without the help of a walker, worries about what she would do if a fire broke out on her floor. “How am I supposed to get down the stairs with my hip? So many people are in electric scooters — what’s going to happen to them? How are they supposed to get out? It’s just wrong, so I thought about getting a rope and hanging it out the window. If I break my legs, so what? It’s better than dying.”

Retail Location

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Two residents walk down a Fair Oaks hallway beneath a loose fire alarm.

Mold and mildew buildup is common around the window casings in many of the apartments.

SCREEN

Barb and the Real Girl

Think pink when you see this heady deluxe Barbie movie.

BY KRISTIAN LIN

Maybe you saw the trailers for Barbie and, like me, you wondered just what this thing is. I’ve seen the movie now, and oh, let me tell you. Greta Gerwig’s film treatment does more than just acknowledge all the good and bad things that Barbie dolls have represented over the decades. It’s a whole-ass philosophical statement about being a woman in present-day society. The soundtrack features György Ligeti, Indigo Girls, and Billie Eilish, and the movie overflows with dance numbers and sets that feature more pink than you’ve ever seen in one place. It is likely the strangest Hollywood blockbuster you’ll see this year, and like The Lego Movie, it’s much more than the crass corporate product you might expect.

The film is set in Barbie Land, where most of the female dolls are named Barbie and all the male dolls are named Ken except for one named Allan (Michael Cera) — he’s confused, and so am I. Life is perfect for our Barbie (Margot Robbie) until her feet suddenly become flat unlike the other Barbies’ and she brings a dance party to a screaming halt by blurting out a random thought about death. She visits Weird Barbie (Kate McKinnon), a doll whose hair has been burnt off and whose face is covered in permanent marker from her owner’s rough play. She counsels Barbie to visit our reality, find the girl who owns the

doll version of her, and set her mind right. Otherwise, Barbie will start getting cellulite on her thighs.

Perhaps if I’d spent my childhood playing with Barbies, I might find the look of Barbie Land more familiar. As it is, the sight of a street full of life-size Barbie Dream Houses and surfaced with pink pavement is fairly mind-blowing. Gerwig and production designer Sarah Greenwood create a beachside town where the ocean waves are solid plastic like everything else. The commitment to Barbie-ness is absolute: No water comes out when she takes a shower, and she drives around in her convertible without looking at the road or touching the steering wheel. My favorite bit is in the real world, where Mattel’s designers toil away in doorless office cubicles that they can’t leave. The visuals are a big reason why the first part of the film feels like it’s shot from a cannon.

The same level of imagination applies to the story by Gerwig and her partner and fellow filmmaker, Noah Baumbach. Ken (Ryan Gosling) follows Barbie into our reality, sees men

running everything, and decides he’s tired of being a second-class citizen in his own world. He introduces the patriarchy into Barbie Land, and suddenly our blonde fashion-plate heroine has to save her own home, where the other Barbies have eagerly given up being doctors and astronauts to stand around in revealing outfits and hand their Kens beers. The Kens quickly move to rewrite the laws to marginalize the Barbies — sound familiar? Equally recognizable is Mattel’s CEO (Will Ferrell), a corporate self-proclaimed ally whose feminism runs shallow. “I’m the son of a mother, and the mother of a son,” he declares.

Gosling plays dumb here for once, and he does it really well, while Simu Liu plays effectively in the same vein as a fellow Ken who makes Ken jealous. Even so, no one steals this away from Robbie and her perfectly pitched comic turn. She walks in that overly precise way that you would imagine Barbie walking, and then later an existential crisis makes her sit on the fake grass and fall over sideways just like a doll would. Robbie frequently keeps that Barbie smile plastered on her face, but

you can feel the terror of someone experiencing self-awareness for the first time. This might just be the performance of her career. The storytelling turns clunky when the Barbies band together to take Barbie Land back. The all-male cadre of Mattel executives is a comic opportunity missed, too. Then again, the loose ends seem to fit a movie that’s all about the messiness of being a woman (and a man, too, for that matter). Barbie rescuing Ken from toxic masculinity is done as well as we could hope for, and when she meets Ruth Handler (Rhea Perlman), the real-life creator of Barbie dolls, Gerwig makes it feel like a spiritual encounter. The final line, too, is fantastic on a number of levels. If you think that a film this girly can’t also be thoughtful and complex, behold Barbie. After this, I know I’ll never look at a Barbie doll the same way again. l

There’s more to Barbie than just a send-up of corporate culture.

Photo by Jaap Buitendijk

Barbie Starring Margot Robbie and Ryan Gosling. Directed by Greta Gerwig. Written by Greta Gerwig and Noah Baumbach. Rated PG-13.

DRINKING LOCAL

Promotional Feature

Along with the agave-based brands featured in this week’s Ate Day8 column on page 5, there are also events happening all around North Texas for Nation-

al Tequila Day with, you know, actual Tequila from Tequila, Mexico. Here are a few.

With Blue Mesa (612 Carroll St, Fort Worth, 817-332-6372) being closed on

Mondays, the tequila celebration will be 11am-10pm Fri-Sat and 10am-5pm Sun this year. Top Shelf Margaritas are only $5.

For those headed to Chuy’s (2401 W 7th St, Ste 110, Fort Worth, 817-332-2489)

in person on Monday, take advantage of the $5 top-shelf Tequila shots and $1 Tequila floaters all day, plus $5 chips-anddips 3pm-6pm. If you are celebrating at home, you might want to check out the Tex-Mex meal kits at Order.Chuys.com.

The celebration at Texas Republic Bar & Kitchen Fort Worth (945 Foch St, Fort Worth, 817-887-9797) on Monday includes $1 margaritas 4pm-5pm, $3 street tacos until 9pm, $3 tequila shots until 11pm, and $7 Casamigos until 11pm. If you feel like treating yourself to bottle service, Casamigos Blanco is available for $200.

Legacy Food Hall (7800 Windrose Av, Plano, 972-846-4255) is offering $6 shots and margaritas 9am-10pm Mon. In related-but-unrelated news, 90s country tribute band, Straight Tequila Night, is playing there on Sat, Aug 5.

If you’re up for a little staycation adventure and love golf, Omni PGA Frisco Resort (3255 PGA Pkwy, Frisco, 469305-4500) invites you to attend its Tequila & Tacos event 6pm-8:30pm Mon. This will be a walk-around cocktail tasting featuring products from Casamigos. Event tickets are $50 on Eventbrite. com.

If you’d like to spend the night, I’m sure you can get a room for super cheap. Because that’s how golf works, right?

Mmm, tequila!

Courtesy iStock

EATS & drinks

Lil’ Swanky, Lil’ Skanky

New gay bar Jackie O’s serves up classic cocktails, an outdoor patio, and a *gulp* mystery sex toy vending machine.

STORY AND PHOTOS

BY EDWARD BROWN

There’s no shortage of queer-friendly joints on the Near Southside, but Fort Worth’s number of self-identifying gay bars (Club Changes, Club Reflections, Liberty Lounge, Urban Cowboy Saloon) is relatively small for a city boasting nearly 1 million inhabitants.

Cody Neathery, a Weekly contributing writer and the part-owner of a handful of watering holes across North Texas, told me he’s been considering opening a gay bar in Fort Worth for a few years. He just needed

the right space. The recent shuttering of High Top Pub & Grub, situated between Reflections and Liberty off Jennings on the Near Southside, was his chance. After weeks of logistical delays, Jackie O’s opened just recently. The spot is hard to pigeonhole. Part swanky cocktail lounge and part lowkey neighborhood pub, the space decked out in late-1950s and early-’60s decor welcomes folks dressed up or down.

The establishment’s patron saint of sorts, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, looks down on customers from her portrait high atop the ornate liquor cabinet. The famed First Lady, known for her style and grace, is not a major icon of the gay community, yet the symbolism works here. Fort Worth’s queer community is every bit as resilient as she was, the mother who maintained both poise while married to a philandering husband and her dignity as a widow. Neathery said it was for those reasons he homed in on her and because of the First Family’s local connection. The couple famously spent their last night together at the Hilton Fort Worth downtown.

Jackie O’s has a set cocktail menu with classics and in-house specials. On my first visit, I sprung for the Mid-Mod Martini. The gin-based libation had a light splash of vermouth, and each clean-tasting swig was followed by a citrusy tinge, thanks to the unconventional but splendid addition of orange bitters. The First Lady’s favorite adult beverage, according to Neathery and several corroborating stories, was the Negroni. Jackie O’s sticks to the classic recipe that makes use of gin, vermouth, and orange bitters. Although the martini and Negroni appear kindred spirits, Negronis are sweeter and less spiced, and the drink was an orange-kissed treat.

The espresso martini plays it straight with vodka, cold brew coffee, and simple syrup. The addition of a coffee liqueur further enriched the roasty notes of the caffeinated cocktail in which bitter and sweet blended for a deliciously intoxicating experience. The night ended with a trending cocktail, the Milwaukee Spritz. Served in a Miller

High Life longneck, the hybrid is a melange of beer, Aperol, and fresh lemon juice. The result was light and refreshing.

On the way out, I perused the vending machine packed with drinking card games, sex toys, and other random items for $10 to $15. The two ladies nearby laughed as they pulled out their mystery prize, a miniature vibrator. Being single and regrettably not in the market for any kinky toys, I opted for the mystery bag. Mine contained a minia-

ture skull pin, gag cigar, trading card based off Disney’s Hunchback of Notre Dame (unopened since 1997 apparently), small vile of disappearing ink, vintage Rocketeer trading card, and a random photo of someone’s poodle, plus magazine cutouts and two pieces of candy. Like my experience that night, the contents were both unexpected and delightful. l

continued on page 19

Jackie O’s, 609 S Jennings Av, FW. Sun-Sat 3pm2am daily.

Sex toys and random paraphernalia await at Jackie O’s vending machine.

- Fort Worth Weekly Best Of 2021

Eats & Drinks

continued from page 17

Bubbly and light, the Milwaukee Spritz blended the drinkability of beer with the summer friendliness of an Aperol Spritz.

The espresso martini was rich and boozy.

Jackie O’s martini has a delightful orange twist and overall clean, easy drinking profile.

STUFF

Women’s World Cup Preview

Team USA goes for the three-peat this summer.

BY KRISTIAN LIN

That USA soccer jersey that has been in mothballs since last fall can come out of the closet now, because a scant eight months after the Men’s World Cup, the Women’s World Cup is coming to a TV set near you from Australia and New Zealand. Once again, we’re coming to you with a Q&A session to get you ready for the big show.

What’s different this year?

We now have 32 countries competing in the tournament instead of the 24 we had four years ago. This means a bunch of nations who have made the World Cup for the first time — hello, Ireland! Only two teams from each group will advance, which will make the final day of the group stage easier to compute. Since the tournament is taking place in the southern hemisphere, the players won’t have to deal with summer heat, so we should expect the top teams to have a little more spring in their step. Also, we won’t have to ask questions about slave labor and stadium workers being killed like we did in Qatar.

What else?

Expect to hear the referees’ voices this year. FIFA is experimenting with having the officials explain their video-replay rulings over the PA system the way NFL and college football refs do. Soccer fans have long been fascinated by this aspect of American football and wondered why they can’t have it in their sport, and now they’re getting their wish — permanently if it goes well. Of course, the fans in Australia and New Zealand are already accustomed to it, since rugby referees are always mic’d up.

What are USA’s chances of winning?

They’re still the favorites, but they’ve taken a hit with injuries. The striker duo of Catarina Macario and Mallory (Pugh) Swanson was playing so well that they forced Alex Morgan to the bench, but Macario tore her ACL and Swanson tore her patella tendon, so Morgan gets her starting spot back by default. Two-time World Cup winner Chris-

ten Press will also miss the tournament with her own torn ACL. Of possibly greater concern is USA’s backline, where Becky Sauerbrunn’s foot injury means she misses the tournament. She probably wouldn’t have cracked the starting lineup, but her absence means that if either of the defensive pairing of Alana Cook or Naomi Girma get hurt or spit the bit under World Cup pressure, the team will be thin with other options.

Why?

New coach Vlatko Andonovski puzzlingly left Tierna Davidson off the team when the erstwhile left-back has experience as a central defender. In a pinch, the team could move defensive linchpin Julie Ertz to the backline, where she played during World Cup 2015. That, though, would create a hole in the defensive midfielder position, where backup Andi Sullivan does not offer the same range of passing nor the same physical intimidation. USA is very fortunate that in the run-up to the tourney, Ertz has looked like her old self despite almost two years of not playing at all due to pregnancy and her own injury problems.

If USA loses its crown, who can take it?

You’ve got to start with England, as the Lionesses finally snagged a major trophy when they won the Euro tournament last year. They’ve had their eye on USA since then, and they would be the favorites if they had their full complement of players (more on that in a moment). As it is, Lucy Bronze remains a terror from the right-back position, while Rachel Daly has made the rarely seen conversion from left-back to goal-scoring center forward and the duo of Georgia Stanway and Keira Walsh will boss the midfield. If not them, Sam Kerr of Australia will be playing in the World Cup in front of her

own fans, and she has a Messi-like ability to turn games by herself. Also, France is now united after — stop me if you’ve heard this before — their top players went on strike to oust Coach Corinne Diacre. In fairness, Diacre seems to have gone out of her way to alienate all her subordinates, so she’s gone and the striking players are back. Lastly, Canada won the 2020 Olympic gold medal and beat the Americans along the way. That had to be satisfying. Kadeisha Buchanan looks back to being one of the world’s best defenders, which spells trouble for anybody facing Canada.

But is USA in danger of losing their crown?

The good news is that all the other top contenders are dealing with their own injury problems. The 2019 runners-up, Netherlands, are missing all-time leading scorer Vivianne Miedema due to an ACL tear. England star winger (and Miedema’s girlfriend) Beth Mead also tore her ACL, as did the Lionesses’ defensive rock Leah Williamson. Same goes for Germany’s Giulia Gwinn, New Zealand’s Katie Rood, and Canada’s Janine Beckie. France will miss both Delphine Cascarino and Marie-Antoinette Katoto who both (say it with me) tore their ACLs.

Good heavens. Why the rash of knee injuries?

There’s some science to back up the idea that women are simply more prone to ACL tears than men. However, Sam Fels at Deadspin pinpoints a more specific cause, saying that the manufacturers of soccer gear haven’t gotten the memo that women’s bodies are different from men’s. It appears that women’s cleats are basically men’s cleats made in smaller sizes, and now The Guardian reports that more than 80% of women players have reported feeling pain because of their cleats.

If we can cure COVID, surely we can make shoes that better fit soccer’s demands than Barbie’s stiletto heels.

What about the newcomers?

After Morocco was the surprise package of the men’s World Cup, their women take their bow at the big dance. Most of the Muslim countries don’t support their women’s teams (surprise, surprise), so Southeast Asia reaps the benefits, with both the Philippines and Vietnam making their World Cup debuts as well. Regarding the former, Frisco high-school student Isabella Pasion already has five caps for the Filipinas and is with the team Down Under, though as a reserve, she won’t see action barring injury. As for Ireland, the soccer will not be attractive, but their fans always inject life into a World Cup. Panama might have the steepest learning curve, being in a group with France and Brazil. Then there’s Haiti, which has dealt with myriad corruption scandals, a massive earthquake in their country two years ago, and a federation president found guilty of being a serial child rapist. He’s still in power, by the way. Spare a thought for Les Grenadières.

Yeesh. That’s such a downer. I’ve got better news. This World Cup will be the last hurrah on the world stage for Megan Rapinoe, who has announced she will retire at the end of the NWSL’s regular season in October. Like David Beckham, she’s a creative winger who overcame her lack of natural footspeed with sheer vision and technique. Also like Beckham, her legacy goes well beyond her deeds on the pitch. (She just made headlines again for defending the rights of trans athletes to compete.) Let’s see if she has one more magical assist or freekick goal for us before she goes. l

Team USA will face stiff competition from England, Australia, France, Canada, and the rest of the world starting this weekend.

Courtesy Facebook.com

MUSIC

Singing for Unsung Heroes

With Shine Eye Yell, Caleb Stanislaw has found new muses.

BY PATRICK HIGGINS

For more than a decade, Caleb Stanislaw was an ever-present figure in the Fort Worth music scene. Whether fronting his own projects like catchy alt-rockers Deep Sleepers or lending his adroit guitar skills to dozens of other projects (Vincent Neil Emmerson, The Hendersons, Chillamundo, Tripp Mathis & The Traitors), he was a fixture on

local stages. Two years ago, with looming uncertainty surrounding the pandemic, the area’s skyrocketing cost of living, and the ever-increasing population as main drivers, Stanislaw made the difficult decision for his family to pull up stakes and head for the

hills. Literally. After living in Fort Worth all his life, he relocated to the Ozark Highlands in Northern Arkansas.

“It was a conscious choice,” he said, a difficult one but one he felt he had to make and for good cause. “I walked away from

good gigs, two or three good bands, but I was looking at my family at the time and thinking, ‘I only get a few more years with these kids, so let’s go soak up the family life that is eventually going to reach its logical conclusion.’ They’re going to go to college. They’re going to leave. It’s going to happen. I guess I just realized how much time I wanted to spend with them while I could.”

Trading city life and the grind of juggling multiple music projects for the simple ease of picking guitars while watching the chickens from his front porch on his 13 acres of gorgeous natural countryside less than a mile from Buffalo National River proved to be exactly the respite that he and his family were searching for.

“Everything about this place forces you to slow down,” he said. “From the speed limits to the topography of the land, how spread out everything is, you have to go slow. There’s less than 8,000 people in the county of 700 square miles. That’s about 11 people per square mile. You can go sit on a gravel bar and not see another soul the whole day. You’ll see eagles. You’ll see a bear. But you have it all to yourself. Of course, it’s not easy to get a loaf of bread. A case of beer is an hour-and-a-half round trip, so you never buy just one case,” he added with a laugh.

Not only has the transition to deep rural living been the elixir for his soul that he was looking for, the natural surroundings and the colorful history of the place have become the muse for his music. Adopting the

continued on page 25

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Stanislaw (left): “Music is Experiential. I’m trying to write songs anyone can see themselves in.”

Caleb Stanislaw

moniker Shine Eye Yell, a name that combines excited exclamation with the name of a bend of the nearby Buffalo River, Stanislaw has recorded an album devoted to his new home. Buffalo National River Songs Vol. 1 is a collection of love songs for the Ozark land and its residents.

“I’m just happy to have something to write about, honestly,” Stanislaw said. “I think a lot of artists have a lot of talent but don’t have anything to direct it toward. Having good subject matter helps so much. I guess I fell in love with this place. Yes, I totally have. It’s just really amazing, and I’ve just been singing its praises ever since.”

You can certainly hear the love he has for the area in his voice when he talks about it. More than that, you can hear it in the songs that make up Buffalo River Songs. With a comforting and well-rooted Americana sound, Stanislaw sings about the beautiful surrounding landscape as well as story songs about what he calls “the unsung heroes” that make up the land’s history. Songs about moonshiners, Civil War deserters, train derailments, and even a midwife from the area who delivered more than 1,000 babies.

“I wanted to write songs that locals would appreciate, about things locals care about,” he said. “There’s something about making art with the intention of it being for everybody, not just you. The biggest leap my

songwriting has made is that I’m not writing for me anymore. I’m writing for you, man. I’m writing for them, for everybody, for the people I don’t even know and probably don’t even like me that much because I’m still the

‘new guy.’ I’ll be the new guy around here for the next 25 years.”

For the album, Stanislaw collaborated with local studio owner Scott Hoffmann. Though it took a bit of time for the working

relationship to gel, the two have become a prolific duo, with Stanislaw writing the songs and playing guitar while Hoffmann offers the rest of the instrumentation and arranging.

Work on Buffalo National River Songs Vol. 2 has already begun. Stanislaw predicts four volumes in total before they’re done. As well as being fruitful, the working relationship has elicited a lot of pride from Stanislaw.

“I think it’s some of my best work,” he said. “I can still listen to the record and enjoy it, and that’s a hard thing for the creator to say sometimes. By all rights, you should hate it by the time you’ve heard it 40 or 50 times, but I’m still proud of it. A lot of people are enjoying it, too. My grandparents enjoyed it. I’ve never written a song my grandpa liked,” he laughed.

On Buffalo River Songs, the imagery Stanislaw makes with intricately interplaying acoustic guitars and his cheery baritone puts the listener right on that gravel bar next to him with the eagles overhead and the bears scratching in the brush. It’s exactly as he intended.

“I’m trying to write songs that anyone can see themselves in to be standing in the middle of a song,” he said. “I think that’s when art succeeds. A good Monet makes you think that you’re standing in a garden in France. Through your tear-filled eyes, you can almost see it the same way Claude did. Art is experiential. Music is designed to touch people in an auditory way. If you’re going to try to reach people that way, you’ve got to make plenty of space for them to come in and enjoy it.” l

Caleb Stanislaw

HearSay

In Good Kompany

Kompany Kunda likes to mix things up. The 24-year-old multi-instrumentalist blends hip-hop with pop and a range of influences that hark back to his childhood steeped in gospel and church hymns.

“My dad was a pastor,” the Fort Worth native said. “Playing instruments was kind of our thing to do when [my siblings and I] were bored. My mom bought me a piano, and I learned how to write lyrics. I started taking music seriously in high school.”

Kompany’s career is tethered to producer Brandon Saiz (Avery Burk, Sam Harvey, Brandon Marcel), who collaborated with Kompany on his first single. “Move” came out in June, and now the EP Me vs. Me will be available on all major streaming platforms by the end of the month.

Kompany said he’s especially proud of how the hip-pop record came out.

“It’s new terrain for me, so I’m glad I got to execute it the way I did,” he said. “This is only the beginning. There are plenty more avenues to explore with my sound, and I’m excited to figure it out.”

Recorded in Fort Worth at Select Creatives Recording Studio (Burk, Harvey) and co-produced by Saiz and Kompany, Me vs. Me highlights Kompany’s diverse influences and talents.

EP opener “God” glows with earnest, energetic vocals set to bright acoustic guitar strumming. “All I need is a miracle,” Kompany sings, “I need a little more of you / I swear I hear you calling.”

Closer “Superstar” comes in heavy like a knockout punch with ominous,

low-frequency synth chords undergirding Kompany’s yearning voice, spotlighting his nimble and multifaceted flow, which varies from deep and brooding to a pitch-perfect tenor and angelic falsetto. The song showcases his range of timbre by using the vocal tracks to effectively orchestrate a sense of foreboding.

Kompany said he sticks to what he knows when writing.

“I’m pulling from my source,” he said, referring to personal experiences, adding that he combines “what the beat is speaking to me [and] what I have been wanting to say. For example, ‘Move’ is about not taking life’s punches and doing something about your situation.”

The Fort Worth community, he said, inspires him to hone his songwriting skills, record, and perform. He calls his fanbase his “kult.”

“It’s nothing religious or anything,” he said. “It’s for the oddballs and the black sheep just like me who grew up taking things on the chin without a voice.”

Kompany said he wants to use his success to organize field days and donation drives. “It’s all about the kids. Beyond that, I want to rock the industry by storm by becoming a household name that’s here to stay. I want to bring a Grammy back home to show kids from where I’m from that anything is possible, that even a person of my color can reach past the threshold that society has put on me and my people. I want to keep my late mother’s name alive. She instilled this compass that won’t ever steer me in the wrong direction.”

Me vs. Me is well-crafted, and the songwriting that avoids cookie-cutter verse/chorus/verse forms should keep even the most discerning listener entranced, from the light acoustic opener to the heavy-hitting closer. — Edward Brown l

Kompany: “This is only the beginning.”

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