Agriculture Magazine

MT

Farmer

the last 5 or 10 years, I’ve actually got people coaching for me that grew up playing out there. So now they’ve got family of their own and they’re coaching their kids, so it’s like a cycle. That’s what I like to see, you got something

Clemson University

guys to really focus on, and they do. First thing they did at the parks in the morning was pick up the trash and clean the bathrooms. Then they would go about their daily business. If it was grass cutting season, they would be cutting the parks, or they would be cleaning the parks and making repairs.

Farming pumpkins and winter squash

but obviously more goes into your job. Can you tell me a little bit about what your job entailed and how would

they were the guys that were responsible for the upkeep of how clean the bathrooms are. That was a big stickler with rooms were always terrible. That is one thing I wanted our

Pumpkins and squash have been grown in North America for thousands of years. Native Americans ate pumpkins roasted, boiled and stewed, and they roasted the seeds for food as well. Most pumpkins now are used for jack-o-lanterns or pumpkin pie. There are many different cultivars of pumpkins (Cucurbita cultivars) grown in South Carolina. There are many different cultivars of pumpkins (Cucurbita cultivars) grown in South Carolina.

Barbara H. Smith, ©2015 HGIC, Clemson Extension

Winter squash and pumpkins are closely related. The commonly grown types of winter squash are buttercup (Cucurbita maxima), butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) and (Cucurbita pepo). The jack-o-lantern and acorn squash types of pumpkin are Cucurbita pepo, and giant pumpkins such as ‘Big Max’ are Cucurbita maxima.

We basically started out in ’98, when I came here. Really, the only program that the county ran was youth basketball. The baseball program was run by a private parents group, but they used the county field. So, our only responsibility in ’98 and ’99 was to cut the grass, drag the fields, and line the fields. Then the parents group came in that night, and they ran their own canteen and did everything. We didn’t have to do anything and by 5:00, we were pretty much done. They voted in 2000 for the county to take over the baseball program, so that got things rolling. The thing was, where I came from in Goose Creek, baseball was big and girls softball was big. When I came here in ’98, if you were a girl, you had to play baseball. There was no softball, so that was one of the first things I did when we took over the baseball program. I started girls’ slow-pitch softball. In about two years, we went on to do fast-pitch. Then we started soccer, and it’s still going strong. Then we started flag football, and then after about 7 years, we offered tackle football; that’s still going on now. Over the

Planting:

All types of squash and pumpkins are highly susceptible to frost and should be seeded in the garden after all danger of frost is over, and the soil temperature at a depth of 4 inches is above 60 °F.

Winter squash and pumpkins can be planted either in late spring or in midsummer. Those planted in the spring need to be used several weeks after picking because their quality deteriorates more quickly than the quality of those grown in the fall. However, earlier planted crops are less subject to insect and disease attack and may be more desirable if they are grown for processing.

Pumpkins for ornamental use should be planted in mid to late summer depending on the time needed for the variety selected. Maturity of pumpkins varies from 70 to 120 days, depending on growing conditions. Most varieties of pumpkins should be planted by early July to ripen in time for Halloween.

Piedmont: Abbeville, Anderson, Cherokee, Chester, Chesterfield, Edgefield, Fairfield, Greenville, Greenwood, Kershaw, Lancaster, Laurens, Marlboro, McCormick, Newberry, Oconee, Pickens, Saluda, Spartanburg, Union, and York Counties.

Coastal Plain: Aiken, Allendale, Bamberg, Barnwell, Beaufort, Berkeley, Calhoun, Charleston, Clarendon, Colleton, Darlington, Dillon, Dorchester, Florence, Georgetown, Hampton, Horry, Jasper, Lee, Lexington, Marion, Orangeburg, Richland, Sumter, and Williamsburg Counties.

Pumpkins and squash are adapted to most South Carolina soils. The soil should be well-drained with a soil pH of 6.2 to 6.5. Planting on a raised bed promotes drainage, so the roots do not have to deal with constant wetness, which leads to disease problems.

Avoid poorly aerated soils, soils with nematode problems or fields where other cucurbits have been grown in the last three years.

Squash and pumpkins are usually planted in hills. Plant two to three seeds per hill about 1 inch deep and thin to one plant per hill. Spacing varies with variety and vine size. Plant bush or short-vined varieties 2 to 3 feet apart in rows 3 to 5 feet apart. Largevined varieties should be planted 3 to 5 feet apart in rows that are 6 to 8 feet apart.

Recommended Cultivars:

Winter squash:

Early Butternut, Cornell’s Bush Delicata, Table Ace

Pumpkins:

Carving: Autumn Gold, Ghost Rider, Jack O’Lantern, Howden, Magic Lantern, Merlin, and Spirit

Pie Type: Amish Pie, Small Sugar

Giant Pumpkins: Big Max, Big Moon

Novelty: Baby Boo, Jack Be Little, Lumina and Prizewinner

Fertilizing:

It is best to base fertilizer application on the results of a soil test. If a soil test is not taken, apply 5-10-10 fertilizer at 30 pounds per 1000 square feet before planting. If pumpkins will be grown after a legume or another green manure crop, less fertilizer is needed.

When the first blooms appear, apply a sidedressing of calcium nitrate at 2 pounds per 100 feet of row and water it in. Place side-dressing fertilizer 6 to 8 inches from the plants on both sides of the row. More frequent side-dressing may be required if the garden is sandy or if leaching rains occur. Do not over fertilize with nitrogen because this encourages excess vine growth and suppresses fruit growth.

Watering:

Water the garden to provide a uniform moisture supply to the crop. Keep the leaves and fruit dry when watering and avoid overhead sprinkler irrigation. Water sufficiently to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Light sprinklings will encourage shallow rooting of the plants. The critical period for moisture

is during fruit set and fruit development.

Cultural Practices:

Plastic Mulch: Squash and pumpkins can be grown with black plastic mulch. The black plastic absorbs the sun’s warmth, allowing the soil to warm quickly. To plant, punch a small hole in the plastic and plant the seed or transplant. The black plastic will warm the soil faster in the spring and will also conserve moisture throughout the season. Other advantages of this type of mulch are weed control and a reduction of fruit rot.

If a second crop or fall crop is going to be planted on the black plastic mulch, spray-paint the black mulch white. The hotter soils created by a black mulch become too hot during the summer and early fall. Spraying the mulch white reduces the amount of heat absorbed.

It is best to use drip irrigation in conjunction with the plastic mulch. Using drip irrigation instead of overhead irrigation keeps the foliage dry and reduces disease problems. It is also possible with the appropriate equipment to inject the needed nutrients through

the drip line and spoon-feed your plants.

Organic Mulch: Mulching with organic matter like pine straw or wheat straw helps control weeds, conserves moisture and keeps fruit from direct contact with the soil, where they could be infected by diseases. If wheat straw is used as mulch, apply an additional half-cup of calcium nitrate when side-dressing.

Weed Control: Pumpkins have many important feeder roots near the surface and roots grow to about the same spread as vines. Weed control can be difficult after the vines have spread. Be especially careful when cultivating near the main stem and do not move them after the fruit have formed because they are brittle and can easily break.

Growing Giant Pumpkins:

To grow big pumpkins for exhibition, select one of the following large varieties: ‘Big Max’ (matures in 120 days) or ‘Big Moon’ (115 days). These huge fruit are popularly grown for contests, but they usually do not have the rounded jack-o-lantern shape best for carving. The fruits can weigh up to 50 pounds or more in the Piedmont. They are partially resistant to

downy mildew.

Prepare each hill (50 to 60 square feet per plant) by incorporating 4 to 6 bushels of manure or compost and 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 into the soil. Mix in deeply. Plant three to five seeds per hill and thin to a single plant. Apply ½ to 1 cup of nitrogen fertilizer near the perimeter of the vine every two to three weeks, beginning three weeks after seeding. Keep plants well-watered, and allow only one fruit to develop on each plant.

Harvest:

Immature squash and pumpkins do not store well; therefore, be sure that fruit is mature before harvesting. Mature winter squash have very hard skins that cannot be punctured with your thumbnail. In addition, the fresh, bright, juvenile surface sheen changes to a dull, dry-appearing surface.

Harvest only solid, mature pumpkins with deep orange color. Cut the fruits from the vine, do not tear them. Leave a generous stem, also called a handle. Be careful not to injure the rind or break off the stem, as decay fungi will attack through wounds. Do not har-

Come see Scott for

BY GRACEN PARKER mtscreporter@gmail.com

Problems:

well. It is a quiet place

town. There is an or -

for any last minute

vest or handle wet fruit. Do not let harvested fruit get wet.

park for recreational

From one generation to the next. That’s how farming for the Floyd brothers has been their entire lives. MD, Larry, and Therman established their LLC for FB Farms in 1999. After many years of farming, Larry Floyd retired and his son Zach Floyd has carried out his father’s work. In MD Floyd’s words, “Farming has been a part of the Floyd family for decades. It is our livelihood.”

After harvest, wash with soapy water to remove surface dirt. Then dip fruit in a dilute chlorine solution of 4 teaspoons bleach per gallon of water, or wipe with a clean cloth dipped in chlorine solution. Allow fruit to dry, but do not rinse until use. Curing involves maintaining storage temperatures between 80 to 85 °F with 75 to 80 percent relative humidity for approximately 10 days. Store fruit at 50 to 55 °F and 50 to 75 percent relative humidity with good ventilation. Under these conditions, squash and pumpkins can last eight weeks or more. Be especially careful to protect harvested fruit from temperatures above 95 or below 50 °F.

the second Tuesday of

“I began farming when I was big enough to walk and pull weeds,” remembers MD Floyd, who has been farming for the past fifty-five years. FB Farm consists of 2,500 acres filled with corn, soybeans, peanuts, and some wheat. All the crops are sold to S.C. Integrators which keep the products local. MD has trucks and does some business in Clarendon County but they also work with corporate to send the crops out of the county but the crops stay in South Carolina.

Junie

Paxville is big in opportu -

Town Paxville

Diseases: The most common diseases of winter squash and pumpkins are bacterial wilt (spread by cucumber beetles), powdery mildew, downy mildew, fruit rot, and anthracnose. Powdery mildew can be a particular problem on late-planted squash. It is the most common and damaging disease of pumpkins.

Spotlight: Town

BY GRACEN PARKER mtscreporter@gmail.com

BY LEIGH ANN MAYNARD

Bowfishing bows

The entire family is involved in activities within

From one generation to the next. That’s how farming for the Floyd brothers has been their entire lives. MD, Larry, and Therman established their LLC for FB Farms in 1999. After many years of farming, Larry Floyd retired and his son Zach Floyd has carried out his father’s work. In MD Floyd’s words, “Farming has been a part of the Floyd family for decades. It is our livelihood.”

Although small in size, Paxville is big in opportu nity. Town Hall meetings are held the second Tuesday of every month. Paxville is home to a park for recreational purposes. There is a Family Dollar for any last minute items so you do not have drive to town. There is an or ganic farm located in Paxville as well. It is a quiet place for those looking for rest and peace.

Blaze Waylon & Jennings Annie & Oakley

Palmetto Sales & Equipment,

“I began farming when I was big enough to walk and pull weeds,” remembers MD Floyd, who has been farming for the past fifty-five years. FB Farm consists of 2,500 acres filled with corn, soybeans, peanuts, and some wheat. All the crops are sold to S.C. Integrators which keep the products local. MD has trucks and does some business in Clarendon County but they also work with corporate to send the crops out of the county but the crops stay in South Carolina.

the crops stay in South Council Member Mathews, Mission,

fifty-five years. FB Farm consists of

town. There is an or

Floyd, who has been

for any last minute

big enough to walk

park for recreational

the second Tuesday of

Paxville is big in opportu

“Farming has been

decades. It is our livelihood.”

carried out his father’s

their LLC for FB

since 1926 www.prothrochevy.com Manning, Cajun, Oneida & Gen

farming, Larry Floyd

their entire lives. MD,

next. That’s how farm -

well. It is a quiet place Town Paxville Duke

FB Farms: lasting generations

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in activities within Prime, Quest & Bear

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Disease control should start with cultural tactics. One of the least expensive and most effective disease control measures is crop rotation. Do not plant squash and pumpkins after similar crops such as cantaloupe, cucumber or watermelon for at least three years. Keep the garden and surrounding area free of weeds that harbor insects that can spread viruses and bacterial wilt.

To protect fruit from rots, place a barrier under ripening fruits to lift them off the soil. An old shingle is better than paper or plastic, which will trap water. Remove plant debris from the garden after harvest, since many diseases survive on plant debris from year to year.

More information about squash and pumpkin diseases is available in HGIC 2206, Cucumber, Squash, Melon & Other Cucurbit Diseases.

Insects: Common insects include seed corn maggot, spotted and striped cucumber beetle, squash vine borer, pickleworm, aphids, and squash bugs.

In small plantings, the brown egg masses of squash bugs can be handpicked off the plants. Adult squash bugs can be trapped beneath shingles or card-

board placed under the plants and then destroyed. Fabric row covers can be used to protect young plants from cucumber beetles. Remove them during the day when the plants are blooming so the bees can pollinate the flowers.

Integrated pest management (I.P.M.) for aphids

Clemson University

Aphids can be a problem in the home landscape, vegetable garden, or fruit garden. They can vector many viral diseases and can cause significant damage to desired plants if the aphid population is left unchecked. Aphids reproduce quickly and have multiple generations per year. Females of most species can give birth to live young, meaning that within a few days in summer time temperatures aphid populations can grow exponentially. Aphid populations of different species can found at any time from spring to fall in South Carolina. Aphids are most effectively managed when Integrated Pest Management (I.P.M.) is practiced. In short, IPM is the use of multiple control strategies in a comprehensive and preventative approach to reduce pest populations, to maintain plant health, and to minimize the use and impact of pesticides in the environment. These management strategies include mechanical, physical, biological, cultural, and chemical

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Scouting & Identification:

The first step in solving any pest infestation problem is to determine what exact pest is present. There are many different species of aphids, and the different strategies to manage them can vary with each species. Green peach aphids (Myzus persicae) are the most common aphid species found feeding on many plant species in the garden and the landscape. Another common aphid is the oleander aphid or the milkweed aphid (Aphis nerii). This aphid feeds on oleander, milkweeds, and their relatives.

Aphids can usually be found on young tender growth and on the underside of leaves. Plant symptoms typically are a response to their feeding. Aphids have piercing sucking mouth parts. Some species inject toxins in the plant when they feed; these toxins can cause the tissue to become distorted and deformed. A sign of aphids being present is honeydew, the aphid’s sticky excretion, on plant surfaces. Honeydew looks similar to sugary drink being poured on a plant’s leaves that has dried and has a sticky appearance and feel.

There are many plant species that can be host to aphids. Vegetable garden hosts include peppers, tomatoes, leafy greens, cabbage, kale, and basil are key host plants. Hosts in landscapes include zinnias, roses, coreopsis, and many others. Fruit trees are also not immune and the Woolly Apple Aphid (Eriosoma lanigerum) can be a severe problem. Not only do they feed on trunks, branches, and twigs, but they may move below ground and feed on apple tree roots.

Another common aphid found in vegetable gardens is the Melon Aphid, also known as the Cotton Aphid (Aphis gossypii), which can be a severe problem for watermelons, musk melons, cucumbers, and squash.

Cultural Controls:

There are some basic things home gardeners can do to prevent major outbreaks of aphids. High levels of nitrogen promote succulent, nutritious new growth, which is preferred by aphids and can help boost aphid reproduction. Over fertilizing a plant can enhance aphid population growth and make the problem worse. Using smaller amounts of fertilizer

throughout the growing season can help to reduce potential aphid outbreaks.

Another effective preventative method is the use of reflective silver mulch (a Mylar like film placed over the soil surface), especially in vegetable production. A side benefit of reflective mulch is that it can increase crop yields because of the increased amount of solar energy reflected onto the leaves. However, there are some precautions to these types of materials. If purchasing big rolls of the material is not desired, or if the garden space is small, an aluminum pie plate can be cut and placed upside down around the base of the plant.

Mechanical Control:

A good effective method for eliminating aphids is to simply rinse them off the leaves of affected plants. A water hose and nozzle with adequate pressure is enough to knock the aphids from the foliage, but not to damage the plant. CAUTION: A powered pressure washer is much too strong. The jet or shower setting on a dial nozzle is enough to dislodge these pests.

Once off the plant, aphids cannot climb back up the plant and will often starve to death. Aphids can also be rubbed off the plants with fingers or a wet cloth. This method effective against small aphid populations and at the very early stages of infestation. Physical removal by rubbing would be ineffective at removing large infestations.

Biological Control

Aphids have several natural enemies that can be attracted or released to help keep populations in check. The most common one that gardeners are familiar with are lady beetles. Lady beetles and their larvae feed on many different types of aphids, and their presence in the garden should be encouraged by reducing the overall use of broad-spectrum insecticides. Lady beetles are available for purchase, but it is not recommended to buy them. They are typically harvested during their hibernation period in the western U.S., and as a result are often confused when they arrive in a gardener’s home. As a result, the lady beetles fly away in search of a new hibernation spot. For home garden-

ers, it is best use plants in the garden and landscape that will attract lady beetles, such as sunflowers, clovers, liatris, and coreopsis.

Another effective natural enemy, that can be purchased and realesed is green lacewing larvae (Chrysoperia rufilabris). These larvae are extremely aggressive and will eat numerous aphids a day.

They can be released on specific plants that are infested for direct application or released as adults to establish in the garden. These insects can be attracted by adding plant species such as coreopsis, cosmos, and clover in the garden and landscape. Another way to encourage and protect them is to reduce the use of broad-spectrum insecticides. Lacewings are extremely sensitive to insecticides and even drift from an application can be harmful. Many lacewing adults are often killed in bug zappers used for mosquito control. These helpful predators can be purchased from online sources. It is recommended that only lacewing larvae are purchased and released into the garden and landscape. Another natural enemy are parasitic wasps (Aphidius species) that sting aphids and impregnate them with an egg. The egg then grows inside the aphid,

killing and mummifying it, and a new adult wasp hatches out of the mummified aphid.

If these mummified aphids are seen near active aphid populations, it indicates that the Aphidius wasps are nearby and actively parasitizing the current population.

These wasps are too small to sting humans. In fact, different species of Aphidius are very selective and each species attacks a different species of aphid. Therefore, it is important to have the aphid properly identified before making a purchase in online sources.

A biological control that can be applied similar to a traditional is insecticide is any product containing Beauvaria bassiana. This entomopathogenic fungus is usually applied as a foliar spray and is parasitic to many soft body insects. The organism is available in both liquid or powder form, but the powder is more stable and has a longer shelf life. This can be used for control of aphids or other soft body insect. Apply the product as a preventative every 7-14 days to help keep pest populations low. The downsides to the product is that it can only be found online and needs to be kept refrigerated, but not frozen.

Chemical Control:

When all other control measures have failed to keep the populations under control, a chemical insecticide may be needed. The goal with insecticide use is to choose the one with minimal impact to pollinators and natural enemies, but one that is still effective on the insect causing the problem. It should be noted that although the aphids are killed by insecticides, their dead carcasses can still be on the leaves after the application. Do not panic and make an additional application. Check to see if the aphids are still alive by nudging them with a pencil. Additional applications are only needed if live aphids are still present. The dead aphids can be removed by washing the leaves off with water. Before purchasing and using an insecticide, be sure to read and follow ALL label directions. The label is the law; therefore, the product label is the final authority on what crop or areas the product can be applied and at what rate. When shopping for an insecticide, be sure to look on the package for the active ingredient and choose the product with the proper active ingredient to control the pest. Always spray late in the day for best

results and to protect beneficial insects.

The first effective choice to spray would be either insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. These insecticidal products coat the aphid’s exoskeleton (body) and cause it to suffocate. These insecticides also can kill beneficial insects upon contact, but they have no residual activity. So only beneficial insects and pollinators that were directly hit by the application will be affected. Pollinators and natural enemies that arrive after the spray solution has dried, will not be impacted by these soaps or oils. Note that these products may be phytotoxic (damaging to the plant) to drought stressed plants, especially at temperatures 90°F or higher. Applications should be made when temperatures are cooler, such as the mid- to late evening to avoid any potential plant damage. For more information on using insecticidal soaps and oils, please see HGIC 2771

Insecticidal Soaps for Garden Pest Control.

An effective step up from the soaps and oils, are insecticides that contain the active ingredient pyrethrin. This botanically derived compound can be very effective in providing a relatively quick knockdown of aphids. These products only affect natural enemies and

pollinators that are directly within the application. Additionally, migrating beneficial insects may be repelled by the residue on plant leaves. However, this effect is not long lasting (only hours), so pyrethrins can be an effective choice to help reduce large populations.

Another effective botanically derived chemical is azadirachtin. This compound is a natural insect growth regulator that modifies the way insects grow by inhibiting the shedding of the exoskeleton. It can be mixed with an entomopathogenic fungi or bacteria to allow more contact time between the insect’s exoskeleton and the pathogenic organism. This ensures that the fungi or bacteria have time to grow, penetrate the exoskeleton, and kill the insect.

Systemic insecticides are available for the control of aphids, primarily on ornamentals, although there are formulations for vegetables and fruits. If applying a systemic insecticide to vegetables or fruits, the label will give specific directions as to when the product can be applied prior to harvest. Systemic insecticides contain active ingredients, such as, imidacloprid, or dinotefuran. These products are applied as a foliar spray or as drench application to the roots.

The later provides less impact to potential pollinators and natural enemies, as the chemical is applied directly to the roots and taken up by the plant. Applications to the roots can take several days to enter and distribute throughout the plant. Be sure the systemic insecticide product is labelled for use on the specific vegetable or fruit crop.

The story behind Mishoe’s Crop Insurance

BY LEIGH ANN MAYNARD

Born and raised in Lake City, South Carolina, Wayne Mishoe graduated from Lake City High in 1973 then departed his small hometown to attend Clemson University from 1973 to 1975. Mishoe then transferred to Francis Marion University to be closer to home and family. He continued playing baseball in the college league and graduated in December of 1977.

Life moved quickly at this time for Mishoe. He married his true love Sarah in 1978 and 45 years later, the couple has built a prosperous life on the outskirts of Lake City. Mishoe was working two jobs, raising a growing family, and crop adjusting part time.

Mishoe grew up farming. His family farmed tobacco, soybeans, produce, and had cows, so he fit in well with the crop adjusting business. Mishoe’s grandfather, William Mayberry Mishoe, grew up on a farm as well. He moved to Lake City in the 1940’s and continued farming. His father, Jerry Mishoe, took over the farm when William Mayberry could no longer do

the day to day activities. Jerry continued farming into the 1980’s. Farming is in Wayne Mishoe’s DNA.

While crop adjusting on the side, Mishoe was contacted by one of the insurance companies wanting him to become an agent. The offer they made was that if things did not go well as an agent, they would bring in on full time as an adjuster. For three years, Mishoe was an insurance agent and continued working part time in other areas, such as in a tobacco warehouse, managing a plantation, and adjusting crops just to make ends meet for at this time, he was raising two children, Elizabeth and Chris.

After Hurricane Hugo hit South Carolina in 1989, Mishoe gave up his part time work and focused solely on the crop insurance business. In 1990, he began as a full time agent. It was not until 1992 that the crop insurance business really began to become successful for Mishoe.

Mishoe Crop Insurance grew by Wayne’s philosophy of putting himself in every farmer’s shoes that he works with.

Bailey Farming and the love of farming truly runs in the Mishoe family. Upon graduating from Clemson University in May of 2011, Wayne’s son Chris moved back to be close to home and be a part of the family business.

Chris is married to Tia, and together they have a one year old daughter named Wesley and are expecting their second child in March of 2024.

Along with Chris, Wayne has also added two more agents to the business: Walt Morgan, who graduated Clemson and started with the Mishoe’s in October of 2018, and Jena Hanna who too graduated from Clemson and began with the company in July 2020.

When asked what way Chris will honor Wayne upon his retirement one day his response was “ I don’t know if Wayne will ever retire. He enjoys so much what he does and the farmers that we work with. Many are close friends now and he sees himself continuing to be involved in some capacity.”