Paris Vert: A Sustainable Feast by France Magazine

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Fall 2 0 0 9

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No.91

SĂ&#x2C6;VRES at Hillwood

PARIS VERT: A Sustainable Feast

A Taste of LE FOODING

立 Now celebrating its 20th anniversary, the colorful organic market on boulevard Raspail has grown into a major event drawing regulars and visitors alike.

P A ris Vert

Home Décor

Perfume Hotels

A Sustainable Feast Ω

Cosmetics

By Amy Serafin and Heather Stimmler-Hall

Accessories PAR

B&Bs

Restaurants Apparel

Ω Outdoor Markets

Skin Care

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It may be true

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of Copenhagen or Vancouver, but “green” isn’t the first adjective that springs to mind when one thinks of Paris. That may soon change, says French journalist and tourism consultant Josette Sicsic, sitting on a café terrace overlooking a row of newly planted trees on the Place d’Italie. “The French always take a long time to be convinced of something. We have a rebellious nature. Then all of a sudden, there’s a collective intelligence. Ecological awareness has been a long time coming, but in less than two years, we’ve caught up; now we’re as mindful of the problem as the Scandinavians or Germans.” Here as in other parts of the world, scientists and environmentalists are finally getting their message across. Since 1990, TV personality and veteran ecologist Nicolas Hulot has run a foundation that has doggedly labored to modify individual and collective behaviors. A shift in public attitudes was evident during the 2007 presidential campaign when Hulot circulated a “Pacte Ecologique” pledging to make the environment a priority. It was signed not only by some 733,359 citizens but also by all the major candidates. Other national environmental milestones have included the French government’s introduction in 2004 of its “Plan Climat” to reduce carbon emissions in accordance with the Kyoto protocol agreement, and the 2008 passage of the “Grenelle de l’environnement,” a bill based on a series of roundtable discussions about environmental policy and sustainable development. This past June, the well-organized Europe Ecologie party received more than 16 percent of the French vote during the European Parliamentary elections (Parisians gave them 28 percent of their vote), and the save-the-planet documentary Home by French aerial photographer Yann Arthus Bertrand filled big and small screens around the world, quickly topping the list of best-selling DVDs in France. 40

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Located on the site of a former auto factory, the modernist Parc André Citroën reflects Paris’s commitment to making green spaces an integral part of contemporary city life.

from left: Urban-Cab is part of a growing fleet of pedicabs that offer a fun clean way to see

Paris; Sting visibly enjoys taking his Velib’ for a spin around the Palais Royal courtyard; new “contraceptive birdhouses” help control the city’s pigeon population; the lush vertical garden at the Musée du Quai Branly, an inspiration for similar plantings throughout the city.

On the municipal level, Paris has been going green ever since the 2001 election of Bertrand Delanoë, a Socialist who became mayor thanks to an alliance with Les Verts (he was re-elected in 2008). In 2005, the French capital established its own Plan Climat, pledging a 30 percent reduction in emissions and energy consumption of public buildings by 2020. The city has also given the label “Agenda 21” to a number of local projects, signifying that they respect a U.N. blueprint for sustainable development. These initiatives run the gamut from future éco-quartiers, or green neighborhoods, to issuing uniforms made from fairtrade cotton to sanitation workers. The difference is already visible. Sicsic gestures at the greenery all around her. “Here on the avenue des Gobelins, cars were parked on the sidewalk just 10 years ago. Since then, the city has widened the pavement and created an alley of trees; it’s completely different now.” Paris is one of the most densely treed cities in Europe, with new plantings and old growths totaling some 485,000 in all. More than half are in the Bois de Boulogne and Bois de Vincennes; 36,500 are in parks and gardens, and another 96,500 line the streets. Resident associations are also contributing to the greening of their city by creating community 42

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gardens with the help of City Hall. And Parisians can write to the mayor’s office and suggest blank walls as candidates for vertical gardens, the hippest thing in horticulture since the Musée du Quai Branly created its dramatic mur végétal. “Our biggest efforts by far have been in the area of transportation,” says Catherine Calmet, chief of staff to Denis Baupin, who serves as the Mayor’s advisor on environmental issues. “Between 2001 and 2007, we managed to reduce automobile traffic by 20 percent. We have widened sidewalks, opened bike lanes and improved public transportation—all of this has made Paris much more appealing to visitors as well as residents.” Indeed, the city’s excellent public transport system has gotten even better: Now that Métro hours have been extended on Fridays, Saturdays and nights before holidays to 2:15 A.M., night-owls no longer have to either drive, take a cab or dash out of parties like Cinderella at midnight. And since December 2006, a new system of clean electric tramways has been spreading on the outskirts of the city; riders now glide silently along eight kilometers of tracks set in a carpet of green grass; by 2012, 20 kilometers are expected to be in service. Even the Seine has become a viable

transportation route, thanks to the Batobus and the year-old Voguéo. The first “waterway Métro,” the Voguéo leaves every 20 to 30 minutes and runs from the Gare d’Austerlitz eastward to Maisons-Alfort year-round, with five stops in between. A single Métro ticket books passage. Perhaps the most remarkable innovation is Velib’, the self-service bicycle rental system that has transformed the city since its arrival in July 2007. Paris now boasts about 230 miles of bike lanes (some shared with buses), and 125 more are planned for 2010. “Lyon was the first city to install such a system, but Paris’s is the largest,” says Calmet. “There are 20,000 bikes available at 1,500 stations. So far, subscribers have used Velib’ for more than 50 million trips.” This spring, the city also started offering subsidies to Parisians who buy silent, non-polluting electric scooters and began installing new recharging stations in addition to the 300 currently available. Yet everyone agrees that more needs to be done. There are still too many cars, and city buses are not electric. City Hall is encouraging cab drivers to switch to hybrids, and one new car service, Verture, already uses only Toyota Priuses (Tel. 33/1-48-00-91-91; verture.fr). For shorter distances and a two-passenger max, bicycle taxi companies Cyclobulle (cyclobulle.com) and Urban-Cab (urban-cab. com) offer a Phnom Penh experience. Recently, Urban-Cab expanded from people to packages, entering a partnership with FedEx,

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Perhaps the most remarkable innovation is Velib’, the self-service bicycle rental system. which found that the final two miles of each delivery pollute the air the most. Since January 2009, Urban-Cab has made FedEx deliveries in the 6th arrondissement using electric cars and tricycles; the two companies plan to extend the venture to other districts soon. Getting buildings to curb energy consumption is also a priority. Starting in 2010, all new French construction will have to meet strict new standards; architects recently showed how it can be done when they unveiled the first “passive house” in Paris, which requires practically no energy for its heating and cooling systems. “One of our more innovative initiatives is generating renewable energy right in town,” says Calmet. “Typically, you associate that with rural areas, where there is space for wind turbines or other devices. But we have decided to put up solar panels throughout the city—by 2014, we intend to have some 200,000 square meters in place.” Meanwhile, the city’s Plan Climat is tackling the carbon footprint of existing public buildings. “The biggest component is the schools,” says Calmet. “We are currently working with the Clinton Foundation to refit 600 of them. That should make a significant impact.” As an aside, she adds that students will also be eating healthier meals: By 2012, 30 percent of the food served in public schools will be organic or at least of very high quality. “We think that generating such a large demand for healthy food will create a virtuous cycle with producers.”

industry is also showing a new sensitivity to the environment. Hotels and restaurants can obtain ecolabels when they meet certain environmental standards, though only a few Paris establishments make the grade so far. “There are policies to encourage this, and I think there will be many more a decade from now,” says journalist Sicsic. Meanwhile, there are 600 chambres d’hôtes in the city, where residents rent rooms to tourists, thereby diminishing the need for construction of new hotels in the suburbs. Paris also offers visitors an ever-growing number of ways to eat, dress and shop responsibly, from organic cotton dresses to biodynamic wines to recycled plastic furniture. If you’re looking for organic or fair-trade food, there are outdoor markets, specialized stores and a budding crop of cafés and restaurants. For skincare, cosmetics companies small and large are diving into the business of organics. (L’Oréal is even supporting the Union Nationale de l’Apiculture in their efforts to save the bees.) As for fashion, designers are going beyond the Birkenstock aesthetic to something you could conceivably wear to the opera. After long dragging their beautifully shod feet, companies from the luxury industry are finally catching on too. According to a 2007 World Wildlife Fund report, they don’t have much of a choice: “Many luxury consumers are part of an affluent, global elite that is increasingly well educated and concerned about social and environmental issues.” In 2010, The city’s tourism

LVMH wrote an environmental charter encouraging their subsidiaries to adopt best ecological practices such as carbon inventories, green buildings or products like Louis Vuitton’s “Extraordinary Bag” for men, made of horsehair and fish leather. The luxury group also recently bought a minority stake in Edun, the environmentally friendly clothing company founded by the singer Bono and his wife in 2005. Not to be outdone, the retail giant PPR opened its own social and environmental responsibility department in 2007 and donated €10 million to produce the documentary Home. Many jewelers on the Place Vendôme are members of the Responsible Jewellery Council, an international nonprofit that oversees the supply chain of diamonds and gold. And the first annual Sustainable Luxury Fair took place in Paris last May. You can see the change in little things throughout the city—residents carrying reusable shopping bags in the baskets of their Velib’ bicycles, long lines at the natural-food store and a hand-printed sign outside the deepdiscount supermarket chain Ed proclaiming, “We sell organic here too!” Environmentalism has finally become a serious trend, says Sicsic, with 10 percent of French people true converts and another 30 percent on their way. The numbers indicate an undeniable momentum, she says. City Hall may be committed to greening Paris, but many businesses and individuals aren’t waiting for official directives to do their part. Fran c e • Fall 2 0 0 9

立

Natural, handcrafted materials are used throughout the new Hidden Hotel, creating a restful retreat in the heart of the city.

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Eco Drea ms

H o t e ls

The first eco-hotels were typically rustic lodges nestled in unspoiled ∫ tropical settings. Now, a handful of Parisian hotels have joined the eco-

tourism movement, doing their part to clean up the urban jungle by providing more environmentally friendly places for visitors to rest their heads. Many hotels have already taken on a shade of green out of economic necessity, making efficient use of small spaces, using compact fluorescent bulbs and sensors for hall lighting, asking guests to reuse towels and linens, installing low-flow water fixtures and toilets, and refitting older buildings for energy efficiency. Others go a step further by greening their interior décor and brand image to differentiate themselves and catch the attention of eco-conscious consumers. Hotels that meet the strictest environmental standards and practices are awarded the European Union Eco-label (eco-label.com), created in 2003. The cheerful flower logo tells guests that these properties use non-toxic cleaning products and energy-saving appliances, implement aggressive recycling and waste-reduction practices, and offer organic breakfast menus. All four Eco-label properties in Paris are among the addresses listed below; more are in the application phase.

The Jardin de Cluny, one of three Best Western hotels in the capital to boast the EU Eco-label.

Hôtel Gabriel Hôtel Gabriel’s 41 rooms—all stocked with detoxifying treatments and Korres natural toiletries—have an eco-zen aesthetic. Guests who need help catching up on their Zzzs are in for a special treat: Nestled in their luxury linens, they can drift off to dreamland with the help of the NightCove® Sleep System; co-created by designer Patrick Jouin and sleep-disorder specialist Damien Léger, it includes just the right mix of ambient music and lighting. The copious breakfast features organic goodies, and the lounge/bar serves up antioxidant drinks and herbal teas for a healthy mid-afternoon break. The wellness theme continues in the “detox room,” where customized beauty treatments feature organic Bioo products—each monitored, certified and numbered. All that and flatscreen TVs, iPods and WiFi access too. 25 rue du Grand-Prieuré, 11e; Tel. 33/1-47-00-13-38; hotel-gabrielparis.com. Doubles from €240. Hôtel Gavarni Located in a chic residential district near the Eiffel Tower, the Hôtel Gavarni has maintained its classic Parisian atmosphere since 1908. But there’s nothing oldfashioned about its environmental practices. In 2008, it became the first independent hotel in Paris to receive the Eco-label. In addition to offsetting its carbon footprint through Action Carbone (actioncarbone.org), the hotel pays for its employees to come to work using public transportation or bicycles, gets 100 percent of its electricity from renewable sources, and refurbishes or refashions its old furnishings when remodeling. The hotel even maintains a separate Web site (greenhotelparis.com) dedicated to everything green, with information on “eco-friendly Paris” (from boutiques and eateries to an eco-hair salon) and links to the latest environmental news for consumers and travelers. Fran c e • Fall 2 0 0 9

LEFT:

Set in a mansion built by Napoleon III, the Premier Regent’s Garden Hotel combines history and environmental awareness. BELOW:

The Hôtel Gabriel (top), with its eco-zen aesthetic, and the Hôtel Gavarni (bottom), the first independent Paris hotel to receive the Eco-label.

In French and English. 5 rue Gavarni, 16e; Tel. 33/1-45-24-52-82; gavarni. com. Doubles from €160. Hidden Hotel Respect for the environment permeates every corner of this newly opened boutique hotel near the Arc de Triomphe. While the Hidden doesn’t claim to be an “organic” hotel, it was carefully constructed using natural, handcrafted materials such as rough-hewn wood, stone, glass and ceramics. Rooms feature open-plan bathrooms in black slate and marble, organic toiletries in recycled packaging, and gourmet breakfasts with health-conscious guests in mind. Best of all are the beds: Heavenly Coco-Mat mattresses made from 100 percent organic materials provide isometric body support, and pure linen sheets add a touch of luxe for a blissful night’s sleep. 28 rue de l’Arc de Triomphe, 17e; Tel. 33/1-4055-03-57; hidden-hotel.com. Doubles from €240. Best Western Hotels Nine of the 42 Eco-label hotels in France are part of the Best Western group, and three of them are located in Paris (see below). Each member property is independently owned and operated, but Best Western enthusiastically assists them in making the changes and upgrades 46

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needed for certification. According to the chain’s spokesperson, several more are in the process of qualifying. > Best Western Hôtel Le Jardin de Cluny A contemporary three-star hotel in the heart of the historic Latin Quarter, Le Jardin de Cluny features 40 air-conditioned and soundproofed rooms, free WiFi and breakfast served in the ancient vaulted stone cellar. 9 rue du Sommerard, 5e; Tel. 33/1-4354-22-66; hoteljardindecluny.com. Doubles from €199. > Best Western Hôtel Etoile Saint-Honoré This stylish four-star hotel in the luxury shopping and gallery district near the Champs-Elysées has 80 rooms in two styles: One is classic country French with white wood furniture, plush carpeting and elegant fabrics; the other is contemporary with black-and-white photo-

graphs, dark wood floors and lots of chrome and leather. 214 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, 8e; Tel. 33/142-25-26-27; etoile-saint-honore. com. Doubles from €139. > Best Western Premier Regent’s Garden Hotel Spacious rooms with large beds, luxurious amenities and a private garden give this historic mansion built by Napoleon III its “Premier” designation. Rooms have sleek bathrooms and a contemporary décor, with air conditioning, free WiFi and a minibar stocked with complimentary beverages; suites are equipped with their own espresso machines and home cinemas. Located near the Arc de Triomphe and Palais des Congrès. 6 rue Pierre-Demours, 17e; Tel 33/145-74-07-30; bestwestern-regents. com. Doubles from €390.

B Ed & B r e akfas t s B&Bs are relatively new in Paris, but with the encouragement of the Paris Tourism Office and City Hall, the professional organization Authentic B&B (authenticbandbparis.com) has already embraced the green movement with its own eco-friendly stamp of approval. Its 25 criteria cover five areas: water savings, energy consumption, food, health, and environmental and visitor education. The B&Bs with high marks are awarded an “Eco-friendly B&B” rating consisting of three to five “leaves.” There are currently four companies listing the handful of B&Bs with such ratings (doubles are from €59): Alcôve & Agapes The new (bed-and-breakfast-in-paris.com), France Lodge (francelodge.fr), Good Morning “Eco-friendly Paris (goodmorningparis.fr), Une Chambre en Ville (une-chambre-en-ville.com). B&B” label.

At Le Pain Quotidien, a tempting snack of organic ham, ricotta cheese, cream of artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, olive paste and Parmesan shavings.

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Eatin g Y o u r Gre en s ∫

Nowhere in Paris are the varying shades of green more apparent than in food, where the definition of what’s healthy (for the planet and its people) ranges from fresh, homemade and locally grown to vegetarian, fair-trade and certified organic. Health food stores and organic markets have been operating on the fringes for years, but now even quinoa soups, wheat-grass shots and veggie burgers are practically mainstream. This means that whether visitors are looking for a gourmet meal or a quick bite, they can now indulge in all sorts of palate-pleasing options sans guilt. Fran c e • Fall 2 0 0 9

This page, left to right: Cojean is Paris’s premier

chain of healthy fast-food eateries. Items such as wraps, sandwiches and salads can be bought to go or consumed in one of 15 bright, chic restaurants.

R e s t auran t s

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Cojean When Alain Cojean ended his corporate career with McDonald’s, he dreamed of opening a place where healthy and inventive fast food would be served in a cheerful, upbeat atmosphere that would appeal to both clients and employees. His first restaurant, opened in 2001, quickly became a destination for chic and hungry Parisians on the go; now there are 15 locations throughout Paris, including outposts in the Bon Marché and Printemps department stores. The natural, often organic cuisine is made fresh each morning at a central kitchen in the 15th arrondissement, and menus change monthly. Favorites include homemade granola, pumpkin-vanilla soup and salads of poached eggs, 48

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parmesan and green beans. Très design dining rooms offer free newspapers and fashion magazines in French and English, and there is a takeout counter. 3 place du Louvre, 1er; Tel 33/1-40-13-06-80. 14 other locations in Paris; cojean.fr. Lunch and dinner from €10. Bioboa This sleek, minimalist lunch spot near the Opéra Garnier specializes in healthy fast food, with an emphasis on organic, often vegetarian dishes such as the juicy tofu burger with organic ketchup and soft-boiled eggs with sweet roasted autumn vegetables or more traditional fare such as grilled chicken breast with rice. There are also salads, soups, desserts and fresh juices for takeout. 3 rue Danielle-Casanova, 1er; Tel. 33/1-42-61-17-67. From €15. Victoire Suprême du Coeur Vegans looking for creative dishes full of flavor will find happiness at this casual restaurant in the Marais dis-

trict. The bright and cheerful dining room, with its extra-large windows overlooking the street, is filled with plants and plenty of good vibes. With the exception of those made with honey, all dishes are 100 percent vegan, often gluten-free and devoid of genetically modified (GM) ingredients. House favorites include Grandma’s mushroom roast with blackberry and ginger sauce, the vegetarian “chicken” with shallot sauce, and rose-flavored tiramisu. Diners will also find a large selection of fresh-squeezed juices, a smoothie of the day, and organic wines, Champagne and non-alcoholic beer. Open daily, with a popular Sunday brunch menu. 27-31 rue Bourg Tibourg, 4e; Tel. 33/1-40-41-95-03; vscoeur.com. Lunch and dinner menus from €19. Le Phyto Bar / La Nature à Paris La Nature à Paris is a shoeboxsized shop packed with everything from Bach’s flower essences and gluten-free pasta to organic milk

and produce. Next door is its colorful and laid-back bistro, Le Phyto Bar, where diners indulge in healthy, predominantly organic cuisine such as noodles with tofu, eggplant caviar, seaweed tartare, vegetarian spring rolls and even steaks and homemade chocolate mousse. The late hours (daily from noon until 11 P.M.), glassed-in terrace and large selection of organic wines, beer and freshsqueezed juices make it a popular Latin Quarter watering hole. 47 bd Saint-Germain, 5e; Tel. 33/1-44-07-3699. Lunch and dinner menus from €19. Naked Located just a few blocks from the Champs-Elysées, this Britishowned café serves quick, healthy and affordable dishes made on site daily without any preservatives or additives. Soups, fresh-squeezed juices and hearty plats du jour such as lamb curry and rice are served at long tables in a rustic setting with woodpaneling and a vertical garden. Those in a hurry can grab sandwiches,

wraps, salads, desserts and bottled waters from the refrigerated shelves for convenient takeout. Open weekdays 7:30 A.M. to 6 P.M. 40 rue du Colisée, 8e; Tel 33/1-43-59-03-24; getnaked.fr. A la carte from €12. Super Nature Hidden on a quiet street a few blocks from the frenzied Grands Boulevards, this unpretentious Parisian eatery stands out with its immaculate whitewashed façade and potted plants. The interior is bright and spare, with industrial lamps, mismatched tables and chairs, and white walls decorated with a few oversized pastoral photographs. Healthy, locally grown, seasonal, ethical and organic products dominate the ever-changing menu, with dishes such as ginger pumpkin soup, organic penne pasta gratin with mushrooms, sprouted veggie cheeseburgers, eggplant curry and fish tagines. Wheat-grass shot apéritifs are de rigueur, and those in a hurry can order whatever they like to go. Open for lunch, dinner, afternoon tea (don’t miss the carrot cake) and Sunday brunch. 12 rue de Trévise, 9e; Tel. 33/1-47-70-21-03; supernature.fr. Lunch menu from €11, dinner menu from €18. Alter Mundi Café Opened in 2006, the café belonging to the Alter Mundi boutique chain (see page 51) is appropriately located in an upand-coming bourgeois-bohemian neighborhood near the Place de la République. The fair-trade (and often organic) cuisine is served in an upstairs dining room decorated with whimsical wrought-iron furniture and stone walls punctuated with bright pops of lime, orange and fuchsia. House specialties include duck parmentier, vegetarian lasagna, organic sea bream and Brazilian steak. There are also tapas-style dishes, organic cheeses and cold cuts, and creative desserts such as green tea crème brûlée. Fair-trade juices, teas and

coffees, organic wines, and a selection of cocktails made from Brazilian cachaça are served at the bar throughout the night, and a small boutique sells a selection of exotic products. Open weekdays for lunch and Tuesday through Saturday night until 2 A.M. for dinner or drinks. 4 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11e; Tel. 33/148-06-15-29; altermundi.com/café. Lunch menu from €10, à la carte from €10. BioArt Paris’s only certified organic restaurant is located in the dynamic 13th arrondissement, facing the Seine at the foot of the contemporary Bibliothèque Nationale. Housed in a custom-designed, environmentally friendly building, BioArt is an upscale, gastronomic restaurant that meets the highest green standards in every way. The second-floor dining room, perfectly insulated from the urban noise, has a modern décor framed by sweeping views through floorto-ceiling windows. In this tranquil setting, guests dine on innovative and classic dishes such as Cognac risotto and mushrooms, steamed sea bass and spring vegetables, Provençal chicken in a cast-iron pot, or fennel tartare with calamari. There is also a large selection of organic wines and Champagnes and freshsqueezed juices. Many Parisian establishments claim to be 100 percent organic, but BioArt is the only one officially certified by Ecocert (ecocert. fr). 3 quai François Mauriac, 13e; Tel. 33/1-45-85-66-88; restaurantbioart. fr. Lunch menu from €28, dinner menu from €36. Meating Restaurateur Robert Bouchard didn’t set out to go green when he opened his popular steakhouse near Paris’s Palais des Congrès, he just wanted to serve the juicy, tender Black Angus beef he had tasted while visiting the United States. That led him to partner with Creekstone Farm in Nebraska, one

of a handful of American producers whose humanely raised, hormonefree and antibiotic-free cattle meet the strict European Union standards for quality and traceability. And to make sure his chef would be able to replicate the proper cooking process to seal in the juices, Bouchard also imported what he believes is the only American Garland broiler in France. The investment has paid off: Meating’s cozy, semi-formal dining room is filled nightly with a loyal following of chic locals and business travelers. Reserve a spot on the terrace when the weather is pleasant. 122 av des Villiers, 17e; Tel. 33/1-43-80-10-10; restaurantmeating.com. Lunch menu from €27, dinner menu from €34. Rose Bakery Both locations of this English-owned bakery-deli-café attract a loyal following of young Parisian hipsters addicted to homemade, healthy foods with a British touch: scones, muffins, cakes and warm rice pudding, as well as organic salmon with scrambled eggs, zucchini and bacon omelettes, poached chicken with quinoa, Poujauran bread, and fruit and vegetable juices. But don’t expect a “cozy British tearoom”—this place is more “unadorned utilitarian,” with a few wooden tables and chairs squeezed in. Sunday brunches are the busiest, and the full menu is available for takeout. 30 rue Debelleyme, 3e and 46 rue des Martyrs, 9e; Tel. 33/1-42-82-12-80. Menu from €25. EXKi The motto of this Belgian chain is “natural, fresh & ready.” Its two locations at Charles de Gaulle airport are convenient for travelers looking for a healthy breakfast of organic yogurt and breads, homemade jams, fresh-squeezed juices and fair-trade coffee. At lunch they serve salads, soups, vegetarian tarts and quiches. Repeat visitors may request a loyalty card. 118 av de France, 13e; Tel. 33/1-57-27-01-25; Roissy-CDG Airport, terminal 2E and 2F; exki.fr.

B ak e ri e s Several bakeries offer handmade organic breads, including Le Pain Quotidien and the Boulangerie Moisan, both with several locations around Paris. The Boulangerie du Monge is worth a trip across town (and an inevitable wait in line) for its line of inventive breads made with unrefined sea salt, fresh yeast and 100 percent organic grains. In addition to fig, walnut, rye, spelt, multigrain and chestnut loaves, their “Ile-de-France” loaf is made exclusively of organic ingredients from the Paris region. > le boulanger de Monge 123 rue Monge, 5e; Tel. 33/1-43-37-54-20. Open Tuesday through Sunday, 7 A.M. to 8:30 P.M. leboulangerdemonge.com > Moisan Boulangerie Eight locations including the Aligre market (5 place d’Aligre, 12e; Tel. 33/1-43-45-46-60, closed Mondays) and Mouffetard market (2 rue des Bazeilles, 5e; Tel. 33/1-47-07-35-40, closed Thursdays). painmoisan.fr > Le Pain Quotidien Four locations including 18 place du Marché St. Honoré, 1er; Tel. 33/1-42-96-31-70; lepainquotidien.com/fr/.

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M ark e t s

Food shops The availability of organic products has exploded in France during the past decade. Organic supermarkets such as BioCoop and Naturalia can be found in neighborhoods throughout Paris, offering organic packaged foods, fresh breads, cheeses, meats and produce, vitamins and beauty products, baby supplies, even pet food. Mainstream supermarkets (Carrefour, Monoprix, Franprix, Auchan, Casino) have brought out their own line of organic products, as has the popular frozen-food chain Picard. Be sure to look for the official green-and-white “AB” label certifying “Agriculture Biologique.” Naturalia: 29 locations in Paris; naturalia.fr. Bio-Coop: 9 locations in Paris; biocoop.fr. Outdoor Markets Most open-air markets now have at least one organic, or bio, stand, but only the popular Marché Biologique, which celebrates its 20th anniversary in October 2009, is completely dedicated to organic and fair-trade foods and products. Every Sunday, crowds of well-heeled locals, foodies and curious tourists visit the stands of the original location on the boulevard Raspail for organic fruits and veggies, meats and cheeses, grains and beans in bulk bins, beauty creams and health aids, Provençal linens, exotic salts and herbs, wheat-grass shots, dried wakame, roast chickens and a pasta stand churning out fresh tagliatelle made from semi-whole wheat flour. A second market takes place Saturdays in the 17th, and a much smaller one on Saturdays in the 14th. Although sticker shock is almost guaranteed if you’re used to shopping in non-organic markets, the engaging stall owners are usually more than happy to explain in detail what makes their products—often locally sourced—worth every euro. Boulevard Raspail, from rue de Rennes to rue du Cherche Midi, 6e; Sundays 9 A.M. to 1:30 P.M. Place Constantin-Brancusi,14e; Saturdays 9 A.M. to 1 P.M. Boulevard des Batignolles, from Métro Rome to Place Clichy, 17e; Saturdays 9 A.M. to 2 P.M. Fran c e • Fall 2 0 0 9

≈ To celebrate the launch of the new “Recycled By” label, photographer Claire Riou did a photo shoot of models wearing the eco-friendly clothes in woodland settings.

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Fashionable Footprints ∫

Shopping in Paris has always been fabulous, with options ranging from storied grands magasins and hip discount stores to chic boutiques and purveyors of custom-made goods. Now, while you are indulging your style cravings, you can also help provide clean drinking water in Madagascar, educate poor children in India and create jobs for Burmese refugees in Kuala Lumpur. It’s all part of outfitting the planet in the most fashion-forward color there is: green.

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Organic or fair-trade clothing seems a perfect fit for Berkeley but a little fashion-deficient for the streets of Paris. Stereotypically hippy-dippy, loose-fitting—even, dare we say, ugly—green clothing is finally becoming competitive for reasons of style, not just conscience. Most eco-friendly clothing is made of organic cotton, an especially desirable alternative when you know that conventional cotton uses more insecticides than practically any other crop worldwide. Other materials include jute, organic linen, bamboo and microfiber made from tree pulp.

Dalia and Rose Former fashion model Clélia Moretton is now a model of responsible commerce with her new ethical luxury concept store, Dalia and Rose, which opened this fall. The tiny boutique stocks organic and handcrafted clothing and accessories by a variety of brands: tunics by Swedish designer Camilla Norrback, organic dresses by France’s LeAF, fair-trade Panama hats by the Ecuadorian brand Pachacuti and more. 9 rue du Marché St-Honoré, 1er; Tel. 33/1-40-20-49-58; daliaandrose.fr. Alter Mundi This six-year-old company boasts a dozen stores throughout France and a new concept store opening this November across from the Cirque d’Hiver. Alter Mundi sells ethical and fair-trade clothing, accessories, furniture and cosmetics by a variety of labels. Much, though not all, is organic. There are Nu jeans, Veja sneakers and comfortable urban wear—fitted shirts, blazers, V-neck sweaters, pleated trousers—for men and women by Article 23 (the brand takes its name from the article in the Universal Declaration of Human Rights promising equal pay for equal work). T-shirts to stand out in a crowd come from Monsieur Poulet, a brand that combines ecological, fair-trade cotton from West Africa with graphics contributed by clients. Go online (monsieurpoulet.com), submit your design, and if enough people vote for it, the company will print it and

sell it. The winners receive €2 for every T-shirt sold—and that’s about as fair as trade gets. Four Paris locations; altermundi.com. Recyled By In 2008, Brazilian blogger and former dancer Rosanna de Sordi opened L’Espace des Créateurs, a new boutique in the Marais to showcase the work of up-and-coming designers, many of them devoted to éco-responsabilité. This year, Sordi launched Recycled By, a collection of apparel and accessories crafted from pre-existing materials (vintage clothing, surplus fabric and ribbons) to create items that are as unique as they are chic. 7 rue Commines, 3e; Tel. 33/1-42-78-44-63. House of Organic Originally from Sweden, this boutique for organic apparel, accessories and design now has a shop in the Marais. The clothing, by various emerging and established designers, is as fashion-conscious as it is eco-friendly: woven organic cotton tops by Camilla Norrback, black-and-white dresses of silk and cotton by Danish label Noir, children’s underwear from the new French label ADRI, with sayings such as “culotte de princesse” (princess panties) and “slip anti-fessée” (anti-spanking underpants). They also carry soft and stylish tunics and tees by LeAF, based in the Paris suburb of Montreuil, and babies’ onesies, jackets and leggings made of Japanese organic steam-woven

cotton for the French company Victoria Christmas. Accessories include salad tongs shaped like trees, crafted from sustainable beech wood by France’s Reine Mère. This year, the Fall/Winter collection has expanded menswear offerings too. 7 rue Malher, 4e; Tel. 33/9-50-22-91-27; houseoforganic.com. Numanu This French womenswear brand was born three years ago, and co-founder Emmanuel Walliser still sounds amazed that they won the Ethical Fashion Show award in 2006. “We had only been around for two weeks,” he laughs. Numanu bills itself as a “label of love,” and there is much to love in their organic collections combining style and sustainability. Garments are made of cotton, artisanal silks or wools by a company in northern India that supports education efforts for impoverished children. The cottons are either organic or inconversion, meaning they come from farmers making the costly transition to organic. Numanu’s store near the Place des Vosges sells sophisticated items with a certain sex appeal that’s still missing from many organic brands—embroidered tops, flared trousers, even miniskirts. 8 rue de Turenne, 4e; Tel. 33/1-42-74-30-84; numanu.com. Commuun The two Japanese designers behind the Paris-based label Commuun have come as close as Fran c e • Fall 2 0 0 9

anyone to finding the elusive formula for womenswear that is both luxuriously chic and environmentally sustainable. Kaito Hori (formerly at Balenciaga) and Iku Furudate (an alumnus of Central Saint Martins in London) created Commuun in 2005, and two years later won a prestigious ANDAM fashion award. Their designs are inspired by nature, exhibiting a minimalist, avant-garde aesthetic with draped and layered fabrics, asymmetrical hems and unexpected silhouettes. They use organic cottons and linens, vegetable pigments, sometimes even Japanese paper. Generally about a fourth of their collection is organic, though for the 2010 Spring pre-collection, they’ve bumped that figure up to 100 percent. Sold at L’Eclaireur, 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 8e; Tel. 33/1-53-43-80-12; commuun.com and leclaireur.com Lacoste + Campana Brothers The Campana brothers are a natural fit for the French crocodile brand—the Brazilian design duo once made an “Alligator Chair” mimicking how the beasts pile up in mud beds during the dry season. For Lacoste’s 2010 Holiday Collector’s Series, the brothers have come up with variations on the iconic polo. A special edition of 20,000 features a single cluster of crocs, while limited editions of 125 show other variations on the theme. The project gives work to poor craftswomen at the Coopa-Roca cooperative in a favela of Rio de Janeiro. Part of the proceeds goes to the Save Your Logo initiative, which Lacoste supports by contributing money to protect endangered crocs and alligators. 93-95 avenue des ChampsElysées, 8e; Tel. 33/1-47-23-39-26; lacoste.com. G = 9.8 Sophie Young left architecture to design eco-friendly bras and boxers four years ago and named her company in the Paris suburbs after the symbol for the force of the Earth’s gravitational field. She uses textiles made from

clockwise from top left: Clothing that says you love Mother

Nature: a Pachacuti Panama hat, a Campana Brothers design for Lacoste, menswear by Article 23, a chic little dress from Numanu, an assortment of merchandise at the House of Organic.

American white pines, transformed into microfiber fabrics in France and sewn together in a small village in Angers. All fabrics are certified OekoTex® Standard 100, meaning they are harmless to even the most sensitive skins and free of allergens. Her fall collection offers burgundy camisoles, cassis-colored low-cut panties, sporty

bras and shorties in ocean blue with white trim, socks and thigh-high stockings. Available online at g98.fr and at retailers listed on the site. Monoprix The French supermarket chain has long been a great place to pick up quality clothes on a budget. In 2003 they added eco-friendly garments

bio from bri t t any Six years ago, an attractive young couple from Brittany created Ekyog, an organic clothing company; today it counts six stores in Paris and more than 20 throughout France. They produce clothing for women and babies using organic cotton raised without pesticides, GMOs or chemical fertilizers. Their fabrics come from a socially responsible factory in India and a company in Madagascar that also works to provide clean drinking water for the local population. Fashion-conscious, reasonably priced and comfortable, the collections feature long cardigan/shawls, floaty blouses and dresses, jackets with draped necklines, soft sweaters, yoga wear and lingerie in neutral shades. They also make organic massage oils, face cream, lip balm and a fragrance called Voile de Coton, with almond, rose, white lotus and mimosa. Some addresses: 1 rue Montmartre, 1er; Tel. 33/1-42-21-46-01. 23 rue des FrancsBourgeois, 4e; Tel. 33/1-42-78-22-60. Marché Saint Germain, 3 rue Clément, 6e; Tel. 33/1-40-46-87-30. 30 rue Tronchet, 9e; Tel. 33/1-42-66-19-07. ekyog.com 52

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to the mix: T-shirts, tops, pants and underwear made of fair-trade, organic cotton in India and Tanzania. Though organics still represent a small portion of Monoprix’s offerings, they increased their production by 80 percent in 2007 and another 20 percent last year. You’ll find them hanging among the regular collections in the departments for men, women, kids and babies. Locations throughout Paris; monoprix.fr. Petit Bateau This brand’s famously soft cotton tees and separates have made it a must for French kids and mamans too. It recently launched a capsule collection in 100 percent organic cotton that also meets the international Oeko-Tex® Standard 100. For babies, there are cream-colored onesies, sleepers and infant sleeping bags, while women can find undies and tank tops in the same neutral shade. Instead of a scratchy label, the logo is silkscreened inside the fabric. Ten Paris locations; petit-bateau.fr.

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Now you can be an environmentalist right down to your underwear, thanks to Sophie Young’s new G=9.8 label, which uses microfibers made from American pines.

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A cc e ssori e s Paris offers a wealth of products both “ethical” and stylish. clockwise from left: Repurposed bijoux from La Tonkinoise; a Louise Fouin brooch, made from plastic bags; a leather bag from Matières à Réflexion; Mod8’s Ekomik kid’s shoe.

Everybody knows that accessories make an outfit, and it seems you can never have too many bags, belts or shoes (especially if they’re French). You may not be able to kick the habit, but at least you can support it sustainably. Eco-friendly companies are using leather tanned with tree bark rather than chrome and choosing hides from animals raised organically and humanely. They’re opting for natural rubber, some of it made from the milk of hevea trees. Even gold is getting a closer look, to ensure it has been extracted in an environmentally conscious way. 54

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Jewelry Ethical Luxury (JEL) Leonardo DiCaprio hasn’t made a movie about gold mining yet, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t a problem. Since gold is melted down, it’s almost impossible to trace its origins, and miners often use mercury and cyanide in the extraction of the metal, which is awful for the environment. Young French entrepreneur Erwan Le Louer has founded JEL ( j-e-l.fr), working with small open-air mines in western Colombia that never use chemicals or contaminants. The gold travels to a company in the Vosges where it’s turned into delicate 18-carat pendants, earrings and bracelets. JEL’s

“Infini” collection is sold at Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 1er; colette.fr. Moyi ekolo Moyi ekolo means “citizen” in Lingala, a language spoken in the Democratic Republic of Congo. This is, however, a French fair-trade company making women’s footwear in the Drôme region, whose famous shoemaking industry is in decline. Derbies, gladiators and low boots feature natural rubber soles made of hevea tree milk, Nepalese wool and Spanish leather tanned with tree bark. The look is intriguing, often roughhewn. The company has also created

a production workshop and sales network in Namibia, providing work in a country where unemployment is close to 40 percent. Sold at Kenka, 56 bis rue du Louvre, 2e; Tel. 33/1-45-0845-15; kenka.fr. Kenka Shoe addicts (and you know who you are) are generally aware of the destruction their habit can wreak on their wallets, but they may not know that shoemaking messes up the planet too. Fortunately, there’s a brand-new store in Paris selling a variety of environmentally friendly shoes from Europe and beyond. Materials

Etnies’ first collection of 100 percent carbonneutral sneakers is made from renewable materials; the whimsical footwear is sold by the über-hip Colette.

include organic cotton, hemp and linen, natural rubber or recycled tires, cork and bamboo. Leather is tanned using tree bark rather than chemicals and is dyed without heavy metals. It might be hard to imagine running into Carrie Bradshaw here, but the selection is surprisingly attractive nonetheless. Converse lovers can find the equivalent in the brand Ethletic, which shares profits with producers in Sri Lanka. There are also caramelcolored vinyl-like boots and sandals by Plasticana, and the relaunched French brand Pataugas now offers a few styles with chrome-free leather. 56 bis rue du Louvre, 2e; Tel. 33/145-08-45-15; kenka.fr. Matières à Réflexion Vintage leather jackets find new lives as handbags, while Army surplus clothes become canvas sacks at this boutique in the

Upper Marais. The workshop in the back gets most of its stock from Emmaus and Le Relais, the local equivalents of Goodwill, and each handmade piece is unique. The shop also sells jewelry by La Tonkinoise made from repurposed charms and timepieces. 19 rue de Poitou, 3e; Tel. 33/1-42-7216-31; matieresareflexion.com and latonkinoiseaparis.com. Jérôme Dreyfuss Sometimes a woman’s best friend is her handbag, all the more irresistible when it comes with a name (Robert, Billy, Lucien) and the spot-on style of Jérôme Dreyfuss. In 2006 the young French designer created his own “agricouture” label to describe his ecological commitment to his clients. It’s not entirely green— leather never is—but it is environmentally conscious. The animals he uses are raised with space to roam, the

Z aza F ac t ory With a marketing degree, a love of travel and boundless enthusiasm, Isabelle Grandval built a workshop for craftswomen in Myanmar and launched Zaza Factory, her French accessories brand, in 2005. Since then she has opened workshops in India, Bénin and most recently Kuala Lumpur, with a project for Burmese refugees there. Many of her materials are recycled or environmentally friendly, and the women who work for her all receive a decent wage. Grandval’s collection features an eclectic range of items: blown-glass jewelry, Bolivian cashlama ponchos and fantastic handbags, from chic little clutches to roomy bags of recycled leather. Her products are so groovy that the French brand Agnès B. has joined forces with Zaza Factory to release mini-collections of bags, scarves and wool caps. Sold at nearly 40 boutiques, department stores and specialty shops throughout Paris. zazafactory.com

leather is tanned without chemicals and with recycled water, and artisans hail from small workshops in Europe and North Africa. 1 rue Jacob, 6e; Tel. 33/1-43-54-70-93; jerome-dreyfuss. com. Also sold at Merci, 111 bd Beaumarchais, 3e; Tel. 33/1-42-7700-33; merci-merci.com.

ink. The Fall/Winter collection, available at various Paris locations, comes with laces or straps, in grey, taupe, rust and brown. At Chaussures Tavernier (99 rue Mouffetard, 5e; Tel. 33/147-07-21-90) and Chupi Boots (114 rue de la Roquette, 11e; Tel. 33/1-4009-00-02). mod8.com

Mod8 Toddlers concerned about their carbon footprint can now take their first steps in ecologically friendly shoes by the excellent French children’s footwear company Mod8. They consist of organically tanned leather uppers, organic cotton insoles, bamboo fiber laces and natural rubber soles and straps handcrafted from the milk of hevea trees, grown in controlled tropical plantations. Air cushions in the soles act as natural shock absorbers. Even the box is made of recycled cardboard with biodegradable

Veja Veja sneakers are designed in France and made by small cooperatives in Brazil with organic cotton, renewable wild Amazonian rubber and leather tanned with vegetal extracts. What’s best, with their fun colors and “V” logo on the side, they look really cool. There are collections for men, women, kids and babies; the company is also introducing a new line of eco-friendly handbags plus the latest sneaker model, the limited-edition SPMA (Sao Paolo mon amour). Sold at Kiliwatch (men’s and women’s shoes, including SPMA), 62 rue Tiquetonne, 2e; Tel. 33/1-42-21-17-37. Alter Mundi, 5 bd du Temple, 3e. Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 7e; Tel. 33/1-44-39-80-00. veja.fr Elise Fouin Where most people see a crumpled-up supermarket bag, designer Elise Fouin sees jewelry. The 30-year-old Parisian, a graduate of the prestigious Boulle design school, always starts her creative process with materials, turning cash register rolls into paper lamps, leftover pieces of wood into coat racks, aluminum shavings into necklaces, and supermarket bags into bright flower brooches. Images of Elise Fouin’s creations are available on her site, elisefouin.com. Orders may be made via e-mail: contact@elisefouin.com. Fran c e • Fall 2 0 0 9

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C osm e t ics , S K in C ar e & P e rfum e

Egyptian basil, Breton cider apples, sweet almond oil, apricots—the ingredients in organic skincare products sound way more delicious than parabens and phthalates. Note, however, that it’s easy to confuse natural with organic. In France, most organic cosmetics are certified by Ecocert, with the term “écologique et biologique” guaranteeing they contain at least 10 percent organic ingredients and

95 percent natural ingredients— and that 95 percent of the natural ingredients (not including water) are organic. (The exact percentages should also be noted on the label.) The organic skincare industry has been growing 25 to 30 percent annually in recent years and now represents about 3 to 4 percent of the French market. That’s still a small fraction, but new companies are springing up all the time, the most famous names in skincare are snapping up organic brands, and sales are expected to double during the next five years. Here’s a sampling of what’s in store, from parapharmacies to luxury boutiques. Bio-Beauté by Nuxe One of the most appealing mid-priced skincare lines on French pharmacy shelves, Nuxe is run by Aliza Jabès (her sister is Terry de Gunzburg, of the high-end By Terry make-up brand). Bio-Beauté contains close to 100 percent organic products, including a high concentration of fruit extracts, and is free of all

the undesirables—silicone, petrochemicals, synthetic coloring agents, GMOs, parabens, etc. There is a full line for face and body with ingredients such as daisy oil, hazelnut oil, apricots and caramelized peaches. Yum. Available at most parapharmacies. Cattier This family-run French skincare company was created in 1968 by Pierre Cattier, one of the fathers of the French mouvement harmoniste espousing natural medicine. Cattier’s original products were clay-based. In 1987 a pharmacist-cosmetologist bought the brand and took it in an increasingly natural, organic direction. Today, with a factory outside Paris, Cattier makes about a hundred products including cleansing baby gel with sweet almond and orange blossom; yogurt shampoo; face masks in pink, green, white or yellow clay; six different perfumes; even insect repellent. The products are reasonably priced and sold in pharmacies and at Naturalia, Monoprix, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps.

Fresh from Brittany, Is B’s line of unisex creams, scrubs and serums incorporates organic cider apples, a source of antioxidants.

Honoré des Prés The French niche parfumeur now offers five scents made with 100 percent organic natural extracts, free of chemicals, coloring agents and phthalates. Cult perfumer Olivia Giacobetti created four of the five, including the enticing Chaman’s Party, with vetiver, Egyptian basil and Madagascar cloves. The others are Bonté’s Bloom, Nu Green, Sexy Angelic and Honoré’s Trip. At Printemps de la Beauté Scent Room, 64 boulevard Haussmann, 9e; printemps. com. Calligrane, 6 rue du Pont Louis Philippe, 4e; honoredespres.com. Is B Bordeaux gave us skincare products made from grapes, and now Brittany responds with a line made with organic cider apples. Both fruits contain polyphenols, valued for their antioxidant properties. The Lecoq-Gadby eco-friendly spa hotel in Rennes is behind the new cosmetics label (the unusual name comes from a Celtic legend), with six products for the body and face. All are suitable for women, children and men—three-star chef Alain Passard swears by the balm as a pre-shave oil. There are creams, serums and oils for draining, firming and moisturizing, plus a signature scrub that comes with ground seeds so clients can adjust the texture as they wish. Is B is available at three of the By Terry luxury makeup boutiques; you’ll find them in the new space for emerging brands called L.A.B. de Marques. By Terry: 36 passage Véro Dodat, 1er; Tel. 33/1-44-76-00-76. 30 rue de la Trémoille, 8e; Tel. 33/144-43-04-04. 10 avenue Victor Hugo, 16e; Tel. 33/1-55-73-00-73. La Falaise This Normandy-based bath line offers solid and liquid soaps, salts and gels made with a high concentration of organic and natural products, without parabens, GMOs or synthetic chemicals. The ingredients sound good enough to eat—there’s organic honey with macadamia, green tea with Muscat rose, calendula and sweet almond oil. Available at Biocoop (biocoop.fr) and Boutique Nature (boutique-nature.fr) shops throughout Paris as well as at pharmacies and parapharmacies. savonlafalaise.fr LEft:

Chaman’s Party, part of Honoré des Prés’s new line of perfumes made with 100 percent organic natural extracts.

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LEFT: Alain Gilles’s “Kylie” armchair, at Merci, is made from recycled plastic bottle caps; ABOVE: the plant-filled “Bel Air” air filter.

and housewares. Downstairs, ecological party planners can find disposable plates made from sugarcane pulp by Japanese company Wasara that are both attractive and biodegradable. In the design section, the blue “Kylie” armchair by Alain Gilles is speckled with colors from recycled plastic bottle caps. In the clothing section, you can find organic cotton jeans for women by the French company Nu and Jérôme Dreyfuss’s agricouture bags. 111 bd Beaumarchais, 3e; Tel. 33/1-42-7700-33; merci-merci.com.

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D e sign & H om e D é cor

Greening your home used to mean buying a few potted plants. Now it means chairs made from recycled plastic, rice-powder guest soaps and biodegradable dinner plates. One day, you may even find yourself shopping for your own personal wind turbine, like the model designer Philippe Starck showed in Milan last year (to be sold at some point in the near future—watch for info on the manufacturer’s Web site: pramac.com).

Bel-Air / Andrea From the paint on our walls to the chemicals in our kids’ toys, our environment is slowly poisoning us. In 2007, French industrial designer Mathieu Lehanneur and American scientist David Edwards used the results of a NASA study to invent “Bel Air,” a filter vaguely resembling a food processor with plants inside. Lehanneur says it removes the “toxic ghosts” from our surroundings. Named “Invention of the Year” by Popular Science magazine in 2008, the “Bel-Air” is offered for €13,500 at Paris’s LaboShop (a commercial version called “Andrea” is available for €149). LaboShop sells prototypes, limited-editions and other innovative products created by Laboratoire, which fosters collaborations between international scientists and artists. 4 rue du Bouloi, 1er; Tel. 33/1-78-0949-63; laboshop.fr.

Les Fées Among the carefully curated decorative items in this charming little shop are Corsican company Testa Maura’s organic candles incorporating essential oils from the island and available in scents such as rosemary and bay leaf. Other items that slip easily into a suitcase include beautiful soaps by the French company Instant Balsamic; made of organic oils, shea butter, rice powder and beeswax, they are sculpted into delicately scented roses, tulips or blocks of “marble.” 19 rue Charlot, 3e; Tel. 33/1-43-70-14-76; testamaura. com and instantbalsamic.fr. Merci The most buzzed-about store opening of the year, Merci has an ethical approach—donating its profits to the impoverished children of Madagascar—and several green items for sale among its fantastic and everchanging selection of clothes, design

Floating Garden The French industrial designer Benjamin Graindorge has created a fish tank with a completely natural filtration system; based on hydroponics, it has a cushion of sand and plants adapted to each model. The system, which works best when there are three or four fish rather than zillions, eliminates pesky water changes. All that is needed is a top-up from time to time and a swipe of the sponge over the façade. The prototype, which came out this spring, is being sold in a limited-edition series for €5,000. The manufacturer, Duende Studio, is planning to market a less expensive model to the general public next year. Order prototype at Forum Diffusion, 55 rue Pierre Demours, 17e; forumdiffusion.fr. As’Art As’Art was born 18 years ago when two French world travelers met and opened a business in Paris specializing in African crafts. Now the duo stocks galleries in Montorgeuil and the Marais with treasures from artisans, cooperatives and NGOs working in various African countries. The recycling ingenuity is striking: plastic scrap becomes chickens, ostriches and giraffes; metal cans are turned into colorful little cars; and sardine labels are transformed into papier-mâché bowls by HIV-positive women in South Africa. 3 passage du Grand Cerf, 2e and 35 rue St-Paul, 4e; Tel. 33/1-44-8890-40; asart.fr. Fran c e • Fall 2 0 0 9