Vogue x Glydebourne style guide

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Fashion

A DRESS GUIDE to attend Glyndebourne Opera

It is the timeless passion handed down from generation to generation in the Christie family that has made Glyndebourne “one of the most celebrated opera houses in the world”. In the idyllic setting of the Sussex countryside Mr Gus Christie, the founder’s great - grandson, opens the doors of this theatre to Vogue make us taking part of something unique. What makes this opera house exceptional? The fact that it was born from a true love story which started in 1934 and still lasts today. It’s the love for music, for opera, for art and for the nature all around it. Knowing how to integrate in this exceptional context is a question of style and implicitly of fashion. And it is precisely of style, fashion and opera that we have come to collaborate with Mr Christie and Glyndebourne to try to define a modern and suitable style for dressing at the Opera.

Who has never dreamed to be captivated by the magic that surrounds the opera opulent environment? Who hasn't dreamed of being like Julia Roberts, wearing a magnificent red dress, a diamonds necklace and descending the steps of an opera house under crystal chandeliers reflecting fragments of golden light? Opera has always been seductive and intriguing conveying a sense of fairy tale and, at the same time, sacrality. It’s a place where strong emotions surface simply crossing its threshold, but it’s also a place where history and tradition contributed to build an art of representation that, since ever, captivates and involves ageless audiences. As we can understand from Glyndebourne heritage, in this theatrical context, dressing acquires a great importance so it’s crucial to answer the question- What do we wear at the Opera? Mr Christie explain us that Glyndebourne has always been offered a dress guide for the audience attending its two opera seasonsthe Festival, where a formal dress is required and the Tour where dressing smart is more suitable. However, he himself acknowledges that those are only guidelines and not a real dress code.

For men choosing the right things is much easier than it is for women. Avoiding shorts and tank tops, men are not likely to be inappropriate whatever they decide to pick up from their wardrobe, even if a classic suit is always the safe choice So, the simple Glyndebourne reference to a formal or smart outfit depending on the season is a sufficient indication to choose the suit for men. For this reason, we decide to focus on a female dressing guide only. In general, women can dress in long or short, in a suit, in trousers, low-necked, high-necked, in a jacket, in shirt sleeves or sleeveless, everything can be suitable to attend Opera. So, what is the aesthetic criterion that the neophyte must adopt to choose the dress for the Opera? We found that a no-discriminatory aesthetic criterion is the one based on combining the dress colour with the season. So, we can rephrase the question – “Which colour, or which colour palette, in accordance to the season should be worn for attending the Opera?”

As we have to deliver a sort of fashion guide, we consider the two classic fashion season AW and SS and we will see which kind of colour or colours will work better for each season. Also, seasons are characterised by coldness and warmness so we can use this criterion to choose the colours - quite cold colours for AW and warmer ones for SS. Said all this, our choice falls on a blue palette for the AW season and a green palette for SS season and following we can see why.

First - Contrasting the opulence

The opera house, wherever it is located, is conceived to be a music temple. Its furniture, decorations and structure, as well as their dominant colours, are created to convey a sense of grandeur and, at the same time, the idea of a perfect harmony. As Stendhal said about the “Scala di Milano”: “it is impossible to imagine anything bigger, more solemn and new”. I think that the colour of the dress must counter balance this image conveyed by the environment and so it must be elegant and sober. Soft and dark blues in AW and soft greens in SS would be perfect to contrast the opulence all around.

Which criterion do we adopt to deliver a guide for dressing appropriately?

Second – Formality and Sophistication

Not only the stage, but the whole opera house, from the audience seating to the foyer, is a place devoted to perform a representation, and the audience who enters the theatre

becomes a part of it In Glyndebourne, in particular, theatrical environment extends to the beautiful gardens in summer become an integral part of the opera experience

However, it is important to point out that the protagonist is the Opera, which brings together music, artists, costumes and scenography, and all of them are worthy the audience’s total respect So, the dresses colour must not show extravaganza. On the contrary it must reflect a sense of formality because the performance on the stage and the emotional experience is what the audience comes for. So, why not an Armani black-blue or a midnight-blue for the AW and a dark green or mint green for SS. They will be perfect to bring together respect, formality and sophistication.

Fourth – Comfortable and Multipurpose

The Opera performances last long and audience have to spend most of the time sit down. For example, La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi can last more than 2 hours. It is better to dress comfortable using simple shapes and soft fabrics to be free in movement and adapt to stay sit for long time. Moreover, audiences meet in the foyer during the intermissions, these are occasions for socialisation and refreshment in particular at Glyndebourne that makes its 90-minute intermission an extremely important social moment by opening its gardens to the audience. Audience can also have an after theatre at a restaurant or a bar. So, the dress must be suitable for these occasions too. We think that a blue silk or a blue satin to dress under a jacket or a coat can be the right solution for AW. While a mint or turquoise suit combined with a same shade jacket could be interesting for a SS multi-purpose look.

Third – Match the warm atmosphere Opera theatre is a place where aesthetic is enhanced and it is conceived to pay tribute to beauty and splendour. The dominance of the red colour, as well gold, in most of the opera houses enhances the skin complexion and makes the spectator looking good. So, we can take advantage of the red and gold all around to enhance our complexion and, instead, opt for cooler colours that contribute to design our shape, such as a royal blue, a lime green or a sage green. Avoiding red or colours based on red, such as orange or rose, allows us to not be melted with the environment. But it also important to avoid too bright solid colours, such as yellow, that catch the eye and create and unsightly contrast with a natural environment.

Sixth – Match the accessories

Opera houses offer dressing services, Glyndebourne even makes dressing rooms available to change clothes. But Mr Christie agrees with us that it would be wise to have accessories adapted to stay in hand during the entire permanence in theatre. Women must opt for small bags or clutches for their mobiles and lipstick. Blue are easy to match, so we can choose bag and shoes in the colour we like. We can be creative with these accessories and add a spot of colour to our look. On the contrary greens require neutral shades for the accessories such as beiges, greys, blues or the classic black.

Fifth - Let’s all enjoy the show

Audience have to listen to music and enjoy performance. Also, they must have the clear vision of what happens on the stage to understand the plot. Most of the Operas are sung in Italian and it is difficult to understand their words (for Italians too). So, it is important for the audience to not be distracted or prevented to see the stage clearly. It better to avoid strange and elaborate hats as well as hairstyles that can obscure the vision of the neighbours.

However, a headband that matches with the dress can be worn. For soirees a tiara can be also considered but only if it is little and not too sparkling. So, it is better to avoid diamonds and opt instead for pearls or sapphires.

Seventh – Colour colour colour

Even if black is the easier solution to solve the dilemma of the dress code at the Opera, we think that colours meet better with the spirit of this place, wherever it is located. Blue is flexible and opens a universe of multiple possibilities to be combined with. Blue represents confidence, positivity, openmindedness. It adapts well to any context and can be an interesting ally to develop creativity and intuition far from any conditioning. Green, however, is the colour of life, renewal and energy. It recalls harmony and freshness and it is believed to be the most restful and relaxing colour for the human eye. All this create a good spirit to attend and enjoy the Opera. Not to mention to integrate the beautiful natural frame of Glyndebourne and live the unforgettable experience that this opera offers.

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