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Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it Confucius
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PERSONALISATION
The world of beauty retailing is thriving. According to the Business of Beauty report1, the global beauty industry is now worth over $500 billion and, in the UK alone, sales of make-up are nudging ÂŁ1 billion for the first time. Beauty products and experiences are increasingly being associated with health, fitness and mindfulness. Beauty is about consumers feeling good about themselves, and that equates with mental wellbeing.
š https://www.design4retail.co.uk/blog/the-future-of-beauty 2
https://www.design4retail.co.uk/blog/future-of-service
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TAYA OVOD
But a choice of fifty shades of concealer is no longer good enough. PWC1 found that 94% of global retail executives believe consumers are increasingly demanding a personalised approach to shopping. According to Stylus2, 77% of consumers have chosen, recommended or paid more for a brand that provides a personalised service or experience, paving the way for more extraordinary bespoke concepts.
77% of consumers have chosen, recommended or paid more for a brand that provides a personalised service or experience
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FUSEBULB
Bespoke, personalised treatments are already happening at a cellular level in the medical arena, with genome (DNA) mapping helping to deliver more targeted and efficacious treatments using patients’ own immune systems. This is a highly researched and well-invested demonstration of the uniqueness of each consumer and the beauty sector will not be far behind in getting on board.
Consumers are increasingly savvy; they do their homework, are more engaged and ever more selective.
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NOMAD SOUL
Genetic recoding of a patient’s own T-cells can recognise and destroy cancer cells in the body.
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IMAGE HUB
VANESSA MCKEOWN
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The only way to make a perfect product for someone is to tailor it just for them.
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MINIMISE, SIMPLIFY AND GO NATURAL
As consumers’ conscientiousness about their spending continues to grow it is more important than ever for brands to highlight their sustainability. The increasing quantity of plastic in our oceans is a huge environmental issue. By 2050 there will be more plastic than fish in the sea.3 Lobbying campaigns are now looking at packaging as the root of the problem and brands are feeling the brunt of consumer pressure. Government policy will change to hold companies responsible for the plastic they create and its disposal.
This minimalism trend has been around for a while and is making its way across to the beauty industry. Today’s beauty customer is savvy, smart and switched on; as equally conscious of what they put on their skin, hair and nails as what they eat. They are increasingly choosing brands and products displaying nutritious and environmental integrity. Blind trust in companies is a thing of the past. It is not enough for brands to claim their products are natural; a clean label of ingredients devoid of any undesirables is now an essential USP.
Brands want to tap into the market of consumers who have the idealism, passion and desire to change the world with products that clearly state how they are addressing these problems. One trend is that of the clean label in food; a consumer-driven movement demanding a return to real food and transparency through authenticity. According to Nielsen’s research4, 68% of US consumers surveyed would pay more money for food and drink products with clean ingredients, a sign it is crucial to highlight this on the pack. As a result, the brands taking a step back, de-cluttering and pairing down their design as a way of standing out.
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https://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/jan/19/more-plastic-than-fish-in-the-sea-by-2050-warns-ellen-macarthur
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https://www.nielsen.com/content/dam/nielsenglobal/eu/docs/pdf/Global%20Ingredient%20and%20Out-of-Home%20Dining%20Trends%20Report.pdf
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RODIN
Packaging plays a pivotal role in communicating what is inside the pack in a transparent and honest way. Brands will adopt clear windows in packaging, showing the product within to help build a sense of trust and clear understanding of the contents. Clear packaging helps shoppers see and feel the quality of
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the product and provides subliminal messages about purity of ingredients, so a moisturiser packaged in a transparent bottle may be seen as more honest than one in a solid colour that hides a view of the product itself. Many consumers gauge how fresh a product is by its appearance, rather than the use-by date.
VANESSA MCKEOWN
A choice of fifty shades of concealer is no longer good enough, consumers want their perfect match and so much more.
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The attitudinal change towards natural ingredients has also seen the rise of ‘kitchen beauty’ – products that can be made at the kitchen table or at least look like they might have been, but still reflect the latest cosmetic understanding. This trend is driven by a consumer desire to feel in control of their beauty products. Homemade beauty hacks have been around for a while. For brands to keep up, they will need to shift their focus to artisan processes, do the legwork and make it easier for consumers to construct the same standard of products at home. As retailers look for new ways to draw consumers towards their products, they should be taking advantage of creating a familiar but different store experience. Beauty retailers will start to emulate supermarkets by providing aisles of natural ingredients in their raw and freeze-dried states and recipes to help consumers whisk up beauty products at home using standard utensils and everyday ingredients. Of course, these Instagrammable moments will generate plenty of engagement on social media too, killing two marketing birds with one stone.
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VANESSA MCKEOWN
It’s what’s on the inside [of the pot] that counts. better insight and traceability than preparing it yourself. 16
OLIVER SUCKLING AND ANT JONES
The New Covent Garden Soup Company are the pioneers of fresh soup. But they don’t just sell soup; they hold monthly recipe competitions and publish cookbooks to maintain consumer interest and promote their products and brand.
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CAPTAIN BLANKENSHIP
OPPOSITE: Captain Blankenship is a forward-thinking company, leading the way as a socially-conscious business wanting to leave the planet in a better place. Passionate about nature, sourcing the best organic ingredients available and supporting farmers, they offer luxurious hair and skincare products at an affordable price that are healthy for people and the planet. BELOW: Conscious thought on we are putting in our bodies isn’t new, but increasingly consumers are questioning what they put on their hair, skin and nails.
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A leading edge of sustainability
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Lush Cosmetics is a UK cosmetic brand currently boasting over 700 stores, spans 40 countries, and has around 6,000 employees. Lush’s mission is to produce beauty and skincare products without animal testing, using sustainable ingredients and ethical buying. Lush seizes every opportunity to deliver on these aims and set the ethical benchmark for the cosmetics
industry. So, should an ingredient emerge as less sustainable that ideal, it will source an alternative even if it is more expensive. For example, after receiving negative feedback on its oil-derived glitter, Lush swapped to a seaweed-based ingredient at six times the cost because it better aligned with the company’s environmental values.
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BIRCHBOX HANNA TVEITE
The subscription business model of buying products through a monthly box delivered to your home, continues to change and grow. According to a report from Royal Mail5 the value of the subscription box market is forecast to grow 72%, from £583 million in 2017 to £1 billion by 2022. Royal Mail sees beauty subscriptions as the biggest growth area, with predictions of an additional two million members in this category by 2022, closely followed by food.
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https://www.royalmailgroup.com/en/insights-innovation/insight/boom-boxes-uk- subscription-box-market-to-be-worth-1-billion-by-2022/
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Subscribers will receive monthly boxes of ingredients, along with instructions to make their own beauty products. This model could see continued momentum, as it unites the trends of personalisation, subscription and transparent ingredients.
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COLLAGE
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HELLO FRESH
ABOVE: Take Hello Fresh and its ambition to get consumers cooking tasty nutritious meals from scratch using fresh ingredients, and flash forward a few years; the same retail and create experience will be common in the beauty industry. OPPOSITE: Creation classes, hen-day experiences and an innovative new beauty subscription box will follow.
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Popular natural beauty brands such as Juice Beauty are further the farm-to-face movement by renting or buying farms to have greater control of the ingredient production process 26
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23 AND ME
Genomics is also beginning to be used to personalise beauty product recommendations. While mainstream gene testing companies, such as Pathway Genomics’ SKin IQ, are offering skin assessments, others are beginning to offer beauty-focused DNA kits. SkinGenie uses genomics and AI to highlight the risk of specific skincare traits and curated product recommendations based on a user’s genome, while SKINSHIFT offers a DNA test with customised skincare product recommendations.
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FINDING FERDINAND
Finding Ferdinand is leading the way in personalised cosmetics. The company believes that beauty is unique to each person, and they provide high-quality, customisable products that allow customers to define their own aesthetic.
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THE PLACE IS SPACE
Evidence of fitness and beauty’s convergence is evident in the active beauty category, which originally offered sweat-proof make-up designed to be worn while exercising and has now expanded to beauty products that emphasise post-workout benefits of cleaning up and calming down.
NATALIA YANKELEVICH
The next confluence could come from outer space. Now a reality, space tourism is going to have a rocketsized impact in the retail marketplace. From textiles and accessories to hair products, skin care and make-up, life in a low-gravity world is going to look and behave very differently. The industry needs to get ready for this one huge step for mankind.
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The next confluence could come from outer space 33
ABOVE: As space tourism launches and expands, shoppers will need space-ready clothes, accessories and beauty products that can travel with them beyond Earth.
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OPPOSITE: Landing humans on the moon remains one of the greatest political accomplishments and engineering feats in human history. Producing great space-ready make-up should be a doddle.
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CLASS PASS
The rise of athleisure beauty has spurred a new crop of beauty brands, such as Sweat Cosmetics and Birchbox’s Arrow line. Incumbents such as MAC, Tarte, and Clinique have evolved to offer dry shampoos, sweat-proof mascaras and tinted moisturisers, while gyms are partnering with luxury brands, such as Oribe, to offer quality shampoos and conditioners in the changing rooms.
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REAL-LIFE FILTER
In today’s ceaselessly body-conscious media, stories about women and girls often present a narrow view of beauty, and celebrity influence on body image can be detrimental to the mental health of many. Airbrushed photographs of perfectly preened bodies staged in exotic locations are all over social media, but they are not real.
Cosmetic surgery and fully made-up faces have become the norm on social media and the high street. But, while social media has turned the world into one big 24-hour photo shoot and the pressure to be cameraready at all times is intense, it also offers a platform for people to present their most attractive selves. Adding Instagram and Snapchat filters to your photos can make your insecurities become perfections and these visual transformations could became the next reality. Future technology will allow projection of the perfect ‘in the moment’ Instagram photo onto the face to alter appearances in real time.
TONY FUTURA
Face projection could also help acid, burn or accident victims reclaim their confidence.
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a narrow view of beauty
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BELOW:
VANESSA MCKEOWN
Consumers could soon be saying goodbye to drastic cosmetic surgery to look like their dream celebrity. Face projection could enable anyone to ‘become’ their favourite celebrity lookalike.
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OPPOSITE/BELOW:
OLESYA TSEYTLIN
Identity theft could reach a whole new level, if face projection was for malicious reasons like misrepresentation, crime or other illegal activity.
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EDDI AGUIRRE
LACEY
MARTIN HIGGS
Photograph filters will allow manipulation of imperfections to project our most attractive selves.
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Projection-ready stock images of ourselves will be available to reflect our every emotion and mood.
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BATHROOM LABORATORIES AND OTHER TECHNOLOGIES
As consumers begin to rely on technology in every aspect of their lives, it will be up to brands to guide them on their technological health and beauty journey. The bathroom laboratory is close to reality, thanks to ongoing work with augmented and virtual reality, body diagnostics, tracking devices and customised formulations. Bathroom mirrors that automatically assess what consumers need to put on their skin and hair; on-demand DNA analysis to explain how products work in the short, medium and long term; devices to whip up the perfect combination of ingredients ready to dispense or pumped directly out via the shower head; and high-res scanners and 3D printers to help users track results over time are all in development. In The Island, Lincoln Six Echo (Ewan McGregor) snaps awake from his dream and begins his daily healthfocused routine aided by technology. This futuristic film could become everyday reality where sleep cycles are monitored, urine analysis is conducted by the toilet facilities and nutritionally engineered meals are delivered seamlessly.
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OPPOSITE: Mirror, mirror, on the wall, who's the fairest of them all?
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METAMORWORKS
Smart mirrors will allow consumers to digitally view their desired style or colour before committing to an appointment or purchase.
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ROMY PARIS
Beauty brands are adopting new technologies to cater to individuals’ cosmetics preferences. The Romy Paris device blends daily personalised serums with an accompanying mobile app that coaches users based on environmental factors, sleeping habits and more to provide daily recommendations and regular reports.
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HQUALITY
While these products are in the foreground today, they will soon become seamlessly integrated within the household. This idea may seem scary for some, with the likes of Black Mirror creating a creepily relatable dystopian future.
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Niche make-up brands will also begin using a range of smart materials with unusual abilities, such as nail polish that changes colour instantly with a command from your makeup app or foundation that hardens to better protect you from the sun, then becomes invisible indoors. For example, L’Oreal patented 3D technology captures visual data from shoppers at home, identifies skin tones, and prints custom make-up blends. Such systems that interlay multiple technologies could help expand personalisation options.
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HiMirror is a technology-enabled dressing-table mirror that captures a facial image and superimposes a revealing map of pores, wrinkles and dark spots before offering daily skincare advice and treatments.
HI MIRROR
According to consumers6, a long queue at the till will cause 8 out of 10 shoppers to abandon their purchase while 22% just want to get in and out as quickly as possible; so the speed of the shopping experience is going to differentiate future retail.
BELOW:
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https://www.talkingretail.com/opinion/five-key-trends-will-shape-convenienceretail-2018-16-01-2018/
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Shopping from the sofa is common but increasingly 3D printing will replace batch production down to a unit volume of just one, highly customised product, produced on demand.
KYNNY
A drop in the price of 3D printing technology has driven an increase in access to domestic 3D printers as well as 3D printing systems placed within a traditional manufacturing framework. As a result, 3D printing will be used to increase sales in other environments, such as Selfridges recent promotion of personalised 3D-printed Selfridges Bags and Mini-Me’s to increase store traffic, and also at home where basic make-up output will give users speed and convenience as well as far more flexibility in terms of the colour range. It will soon be as quick and simple as printing out your polaroids.
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OPPOSITE: 3D-printed eyelashes will remove the need for trimming, are always a perfect fit and offer unlimited flourishes for different occasions.
BELOW:
NEUTROGENA
JIMMY MARBLE
3D-printed face masks that fit the face perfectly will come with customisable additives to hydrate, brighten and more.
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The end future
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