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2 0 1 5 D E B U T E Y E W E A R C O L L E C T I O N B Y A LTA I R V I S I O N E X P O W E S T, L A S V E G A S | A LTA I R B O O T H # 1 4 0 8 7 | A LTA I R E Y E W E A R . C O M
CONTENTS SEPTEMBER
20/20
Volume 42 Number 10 Copyright © 2015 Jobson Medical Information LLC E-mail: jspina@jobson.com Website: www.2020mag.com 2020mag.com/ipadapp 2020mag.com/iphoneapp Facebook.com/2020mag Twitter.com/2020mag 100 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10013 (212) 274-7000 • FAX: (212) 274-0392 SENIOR VP, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF James J. Spina EXECUTIVE EDITOR Christine Yeh GROUP EDITOR/LENSES & TECH Andrew Karp SENIOR EDITOR Patrisha Holly Zabrycki ASSOCIATE EDITOR Victoria Garcia EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lainey Johnston DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION Mark Mattison-Shupnick SENIOR RESEARCH ANALYST Jennifer Waller ART DIRECTOR Iris Johnson WEB DESIGNER Julie Zidel GRAPHIC DESIGNER Jincy Thomas
F E AT U R E S 55 HIGHSTYLE EYESTYLE
It’s never all about fashion… but it is always about STYLE. 66 I’M AN EYEWAY STAR
Take a ride as we cruise with some of the hottest EYEway stars.
THE STUDIO AT JOBSON Noel Heberling, Matt Lambros, Ken Lee, Rachel Rednor ON THE COVER NAUTICA 6207S FROM MARCHON EYEWEAR PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEPHEN MARK SULLIVAN HOT ’N’ NAUTI Red-toned mirrors are a far cry from shy, and that inner line border with its flash of color marks a whole new “daring” and “do it” for this rightfully confident brand.
74 SWEET (20)16
Eye candy for the upcoming year. ARTIST OF THE FRAME
82 CALL ME NICO
Rem Eyewear’s creative director Nicolas Roseillier with insight on authenticity, inspiration and brands that rock. ARTIST OF THE LENS
90 YOUNGER AT HEART
L&T chats with Younger Optics’ president and CEO David Rips. 8 • September 2015 20/20
94 BEHIND THE SEEN
A look ahead at our September 15 Seller’s Guide. L&T TECH EXPLORER
96 CARING FOR BOOMERS’ VISION: A BALANCING ACT L&T SPECIAL REPORT
98 ANNUAL LAB WATCH SURVEY C O N T I N U I N G E D U C AT I O N
131 COPING WITH CORRIDORS
CORPORATE PRODUCTION DIRECTOR John Anthony Caggiano CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Deirdre Carroll, Palmer R. Cook, OD, Preston Fassel, Mary Kane, Cheryl G. Murphy, OD; John Sailer, Barry Santini, Christie Walker
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monthly except for March and September which have two issues, by Jobson Medical Information LLC, 100 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10013-1678. USPS Number 051-090; Periodical postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription: One-year subscription rates: USA $199; Canada/Mexico $301; all other countries $555; single copy price $25. To Subscribe: 20/20, PO Box 61, Congers, NY 10920-0061. For subscription information call: 877-529-1746 (USA). Outside USA call 845-267-3065. Or email us at 2020mag@cambeywest.com. Non-paid subscriptions to 20/20 are limited to optometrists, opticians, ophthalmologists, and buyers and key executives at retail chain store headquarters. All other individuals are eligible for subscriptions at the above annual rates. Payment must accompany your order. Advertising: Send all film with proofs to: Jobson Medical Information LLC, New York, NY 10013-1678. Postmaster: Send address changes to 20/20, PO Box 61, Congers, NY 10920-0061. Canada Post: Publications Mail Agreement #40612608 Canada Returns to be sent to Bleuchip International, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2 Notice: Jobson Medical Information LLC does not accept responsibility for the advertising content of the magazine nor for any claims, actions or losses arising therefrom. Products and services advertised within this publication are not endorsed by, or in any way connected with, Jobson Medical Information LLC. We make every effort to report manufacturers’ news accurately, but we do not assume responsibility for the validity of news claims. If you are interested in ordering reprints of any articles that appeared in this issue please contact Wright's Media at 877-652-5295 or jobson@wrightsmedia.com.
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CONTENTS SEPTEMBER
D E PA R T M E N T S
PUBLISHER/CEO Marc Ferrara VP, ADVERTISING SALES Dennis Murphy
35 UPFRONT
120 WHAT’S NEXT
An ACE Leading the Way for Marchon; Hall of Frames; Street Seen; Santinelli Sales Team Meets in D.C.; Tura Celebrates an Eye-Con; Fit for a Winner with Joseph Abboud; Enchroma Partners with Newseum; and What Eye Hear.
Line extensions from Marchon, Kirk & Kirk, Base Curve/Rem, Tura, Thema – A Family Factory and Arnette.
48 CE PLUS
Lenses: Cleaning, Aftercare and Anti-Fog 105 WHAT’S RIGHT NOW
Switch out those plain Jane sun lenses for some iridescent irreverence.
DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION AND TRAINING Vincent Priore DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL PRODUCTS James DeMatteis REGIONAL SALES MANAGER Amanda Churchill VP, MARKETING Nancy Ness MARKETING MANAGER Nogah Jones MARKETING COORDINATOR Gillian Mulhere PRESIDENT, ECP BUSINESS SERVICES William D. Scott
124 NEW PRODUCTS
Flirty Fun, Metallic Libretto, Action Packed and Preference for Plasticity; and this month’s Basics helps you get Expo ready.
PRESIDENT, FRAMES DATA Tom Lamond PRESIDENT, JOBSON INTERACTIVE Joe Savarese VP, NEW BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Al Greco SENIOR VP, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Marge Axelrad VP, CREATIVE SERVICES AND PRODUCTION Monica Tettamanzi JOBSON OPTICAL RESEARCH DIRECTOR Gerry Fultz DIRECTOR, CE PROCESSING Regina Combs
128 L&T NEW PRODUCTS
Precision Optical Group’s P.O.G. HD, Santinelli International’s Lex-1200 Lens Edger and Ice-1200 Blocker; and more.
106 WHAT’S NEW
2 6 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Spotlighting the latest collections from Altair, Modo, Marchon, Ogi, L’Amy, VonZipper, Eyewear Designs, ClearVision, FGX International and Sama.
2 8 THROUGH MY LENS 3 0 EXECUTIVE EDITOR 1 3 0 PRODUCT GUIDE 1 4 4 PARTING GLANCE
DIRECTOR, NETWORK/SYSTEMS SERVICES Pierre Gascon TECHNICAL SUPPORT COORDINATOR Rey De Guzman TECHNICAL SUPPORT COORDINATOR James Li VP, CIRCULATION/DISTRIBUTION Emelda Barea CIRCULATION MANAGER Micki Laporte
CEO, INFORMATION SERVICES DIVISION Marc Ferrara SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS Jeff Levitz SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF HUMAN RESOURCES Lorraine Orlando Classified Ad Sales: (888) 537-4858 sales@kerhgroup.com CE Customer Service: (800) 825-4696 EXT. 1 Subscription Inquiries: (877) 529-1746 Europe — Cecilia Zanasi; E-mail: Cecilia@studiozanasi.it
20/20 magazine encourages submissions of product news and information. Press releases and photography can be submitted via mail or email. Any photos and images sent by email must be high-resolution (300 dpi) JPEG, EPS or TIFF with an image size of at least four inches by four inches. Standard photo images must be of high quality. All mailed submissions should be sent to the attention of the appropriate editor. All information and photography becomes the property of 20/20. Questions? Email Editor-in-Chief James J. Spina at jspina@jobson.com.
18 • September 2015 20/20
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©2015 Essilor of America, Inc. All rights reserved. Essilor is a registered trademark of Essilor International. Transitions and the swirl are registered trademarks of Transitions Optical, Inc. Photochromic performance is influenced by temperature, UV exposure and lens material. 6/15
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EDITORIN-CHIEF
I’VE JUST SEEN A PL ACE… EYE CAN’T FORGET THE TIME AND PLACE There’s something instilled in me since childhood. I’m sure my dear Dad had and has a great deal to do with this absolute passion I have for products (of virtually any sort) made in the USA. My very first memories when I was 5 years old or so are watching my father craft handmade furniture from raw timber to framing and upholstering for my Mom and our living room. He drew out the designs, picked the colors and fabric, devised handmade tooling and built custom workbenches in order to facilitate his one-man operation in our basement. He mastered a sewing machine and self-taught his way through all of the giant hand-needle operations, perfecting piping, proper spring fluff and highly polished wood crafting and carving in order to satisfy my Mom’s desire for Italian Provincial with a giant dash of ’50s American Modern. My brother and I still cherish some benches and wood-crafted gift boxes Dad made as a very young child and during his Army Air Corp. service days. He cherished his early years as an apprentice and journeyman, and finally master carpenter for a fine furniture establishment located in Brooklyn. Dad drove American cars (mainly Chevys but one Ford Taurus he also loved). He used Craftsman tools from Sears whenever possible. His “big” gifts to me were American Flyer Toy Trains and (for my younger brother) Aurora Model Motoring sets for Christmas each year. He bought his (American-made) “Sunday” suits and shoes from Bond’s and Ripley’s. His work shoes where USA-made Knapps. He helped build my grandfather’s house in Bethpage, N.Y. He used American woods and paints and laminates constructing attic bedrooms for me and my brother, and a completely revamped, modern kitchen for my Mom. So many other impressions and life lessons were from my Dad, Joseph Spina, when it came to any and everything I hold dear. And… odd as it sounds… I consider anything made in America by craftsmen such as my Dad, near and dear. I just returned from observing the new State Optical factory in full operation in Chicago from the folks we know and love as Europa International. State eyewear and sunwear is being fully designed and crafted to perfection in America. My Dad would have loved being with me on this proud excursion. My story on this journey to witness what it takes to be Made in America will appear in the September 15 20/20 Seller’s Guide. You are going to love this reality tale, Dad.
• James J. Spina
Editor-in-Chief jspina@jobson.com 26 • September 2015 20/20
The 7154
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THROUGH MY LENS
EYE SECOND THAT E M OTION Nearly everyone dreads the possibility of losing their sight. This common fear was underscored by a 2014 survey commissioned by Research!America and the Alliance for Eye and Vision Research (AEVR) and funded by a grant from Research to Prevent Blindness. The survey found that blindness ranked among the top four “worst things that could happen to you” for all respondents, alongside cancer, Alzheimer’s disease and HIV/AIDS. At the opposite end of the emotional spectrum, we feel joyful about having our sight restored, or experiencing sight for the first time. Thanks to recent advances in technology, a growing number of people who have suffered vision loss are now able to experience the joy of being able to see again, even in a limited way. If you want to get a sense of what it’s like
for someone to see, or see again—I recommend that you watch the following three online videos. The first is by Second Sight, the California company that developed the Argus II, a pioneering retinal prostheses. It features Raymond Flynn, a gentleman who suffers from advanced, dry, age-related macular degeneration. He discusses what it’s like to learn to see again after having the device implanted in his eye. A video by Bionic Eye of Australia, a consortium of companies that has developed its own sight-restoring technology, features Dianne Ashworth, a patient who was blinded by retinitis pigmentosa more than 20 years ago. She enthusiastically describes her experience as a participant in a bionic eye clinical trial. A particularly touching video was produced by eSight, a Canadian company that
has developed a hands-free, mobile system consisting of a headset that houses a camera and display technology coupled with a processing unit. The system, which combines augmented reality and virtual reality features, delivers real-time video images which users can enhance, magnify and adjust to ensure their eyes can best interpret their surroundings. eSight’s video features a young mother who has never seen a baby before, shown wearing the device while holding her newborn daughter. These inspiring videos are celebrations of sight and the technologies that make it possible.
• Andrew Karp Group Editor, Lenses and Technology akarp@jobson.com
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©2015 Essilor of America, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Essilor and Xperio UV are registered trademarks of Essilor International. TAG Heuer is a trademark of TAG Heuer and used with permission.
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
BUSI NESS (NOT) AS US UAL They say that business and pleasure shouldn’t mix but I have to disagree. Many traditionalists hold on to the thinking that business is business and should be kept that way. To a degree, yes, since there are boundaries to be respected but that applies in all aspects of our daily lives. However, in any type of business, a little pleasure mixed with business goes a long way, especially when it comes to building a good, long-lasting relationship. Case in point: Hairstylists are known to be confidantes for their clients—many people like to gossip and chat about their lives with their hairstylists while getting their hair done. Since they’re sitting in that stylist’s chair for a good hour or two, why not make the most of it by having some good conversation? They not only get an ear to listen to them but walk out with a beautiful new ’do they love. The stylist on the other hand gets a nice tip for the service they provided and a loyal returning customer. For me, it’s my dental hygienist Michele who is my “hairstylist� when it comes to business
FIND
relationships. For the last four years, every time I have a dental cleaning scheduled, I specifically request Michele because as much as I dread going to the dentist each time, I feel at ease when she’s cleaning my teeth. I only see her twice a year but we always spend some time catching up. Yes, it might seem awkward that one minute I’m telling her about my life and the next, she is scraping tartar off my teeth. But I have come to trust Michele, and I won’t have anyone else clean my teeth. Relationships are always a top priority in our personal lives, but they should also be top of mind when it comes to our lines of work. In the optical world, we’re a pretty tightknit and informal industry, which lucky for us, makes it all that more conducive to creating and building relationships. No one emphasizes the importance of relationships in business better than Nicolas Roseillier, Rem Eyewear’s creative director, the subject of this month’s Artist of the Frame feature “Call Me Nico� (pp. 82-88). A true artisan in every sense when
it comes to designing eyewear, Nico is every bit the advocate of making connections and nurturing them with all kinds of people when it comes to his work—the relationships with the designers and brands he designs for, with his team at Rem and with eyecare professionals and retailers. Business is still business, but it can’t hurt to open up a little personally and let those you come in contact with see you as an approachable person beyond your professional shell, and vice versa. Of course, you are still providing a service, and you need to remain professional in that sense by providing that good service with a smile, but when you let people in and see the real you, you just might find that they will better relate to you. You’ll make a lasting impression, and in return, you will likely gain a happy and loyal customer. • Christine Yeh Executive Editor cyeh@jobson.com
As an eye care provider, [QW JCXG C NQV VQ Ć‚IWTG QWV So much goes into running your RTCEVKEG CPF Ć‚PFKPI PGY YC[U VQ TWP KV OQTG GHĆ‚EKGPVN[ KU PQ GCU[ HGCV (KPF QWV JQY OGODGTU QH 6JG 8KUKQP %QWPEKN ECP UGTXG CU [QWT VGCO QH GZRGTVU HQT GXGT[VJKPI HTQO RTQEGUUKPI VQ Ć‚PKUJKPI VQ MPQYNGFIG CDQWV VJG NCVGUV RTQFWEVU CXCKNCDNG .GCTP OQTG CDQWV QWT CTGCU QH GZRGTVKUG CPF CEEGUU C EQORNGVG NKDTCT[ QH OGODGT EQORCPKGU CV YYY NRVTGUQWTEGU EQO
VISION EXPO WEST BOOTH #16053
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UPFRONT SEPTEMBER
EDITED BY CHRISTINE YEH
AN
ACE AT LEADING
THE WAY
S
o often powerful impact is the result of powerful leadership. It is equally understandable that Marchon Eyewear ship president and CEO Claudio Gottardi has scored the 2015 Accessories Council Excellence Leadership Award as nominated and voted on by peers in the accessory industry, retailers, the Accessories Council Board and the fashion press. Gottardi’s stand at the front of the pack in optical is one of the primary reasons eyewear has reinforced its own role as an ultimate accessory within the domain of ALL accessories. That personal stance encompasses a passion for global responsiveness, savvy understanding of an array of fashion and lifestyle brands (ranging from dominators such as Calvin Klein and Nike to niche-cool G-Star Raw) AND a deep understanding of what it takes to nurture brands built on the distinct eyewear heritage (Flexon and Skaga).
Gottardi is in lofty ACE Award company including Ariel Foxman, editor-in-chief of InStyle Magazine with the Marylou Luther Journalism Award, Ivanka Trump, real estate developer and entrepreneur with the Breakthrough Award, Mitchells with the Specialty Retailer Award, Moda Operandi with the Retail Innovation Award, Nancy Gonzalez with the Innovation Award and Swarovski with the Legacy Award. Gottardi exclusively notes for 20/20, “I am honored to accept this 2015 ACE Leadership Award and join the list of past recipients who are both admired and respected in our industry.” As the Accessories Council Hall of Fame winner in 2014, 20/20 looks forward to the event celebrating this terrific honor for Gottardi, one of optical’s most esteemed leaders. —James J. Spina
September 2015 20/20 • 35
UPFRONT
2
1 3 4
STYLED BY MUSIC Zac Barnett (1) from alt-rock band American Authors wears the Converse Jack Purcell Y003 frame from Rem Eyewear… SPORTSWEAR FOR THE CLUB KIDS Celebrity photographer extraordinaire The Cobrasnake (2) illustrates the pop-art versatility of the Frogskin sun style from Oakley… POISED FOR PERFECTION Funny gal and voice of “Disgust” in Pixar’s new movie “Inside Out,” Mindy Kaling (3) knows how to charm in Diane von Furstenberg style 595S from Marchon Eyewear…
NOCTURNAL NOIR Rapper, entrepreneur and actor LL Cool J (4) flawlessly pairs his leather jacket with John Varvatos frame style V796 in Smoke from Base Curve/A Luxury Division of Rem Eyewear…
STREET RACING Redefining the sport of cycling, Chas Christiansen (5), a messenger cyclist, shows his off-the-bike appeal with optical style Frogskin from Oakley…
5
HALL OF
FRAMES BY PATRISHA HOLLY ZABRYCKI
ACTING DUO English actor William Moseley and American actress Kelsey Chow (6) show that style can cross the ocean—both wear John Varvatos style V603 from Base Curve/A Luxury Division of Rem Eyewear…
INNOVATIVE ICON Actor Christian Slater (7) shows his love for the avant-garde in limited edition Titan Minimal Art sunwear for Todd Snyder from Silhouette…
STYLE 101 “Private Practice” actress Kadee Strickland (8) demonstrates the fundamentals of style—sunwear always looks cool—she wears John Varvatos V602 in gray crystal from Base Curve/A Luxury Division of Rem Eyewearr.
6
7
36 • September 2015 20/20
8
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ALTAIR BOOTH #14087 ALTAIREYEWEAR.COM
UPFRONT
1
STREET
SEEN
PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEPHEN MARK SULLIVAN
SEE YOU A ROUND There are those that might credit Harry Potter. Others immediately think owls as an inspiration. And no one should throw stones at any architect building a glass house. BUT… in these circles 20/20 hits an assortment of NYC art galleries, and the frame consensus CIRCLES BACK. —James J. Spina
38 • September 2015 20/20
UPFRONT
TURA CELEBRATES AN EYE-CON
SANTINELLI SALES TEAM MEETS IN D.C. Santinelli International recently convened its sales team in Washington, D.C. for their annual National Sales Meeting. The three-day session led by Rick Clemente, executive vice president of sales and client services, focused on progressive ways of meeting customer needs and increasing efficiency through technology, while also setting the table for several other new initiatives. The meeting celebrated strong recent customer satisfaction survey results and sales growth, in addition to providing the opportunity to recognize several sales leaders in categories ranging from outstanding achievements, record-breaking growth and company dedication. Product managers were also in attendance, providing advanced product training via interactive hands-on workshops. Company president and CEO Gerard Santinelli opened the meeting by commending the team for their commitment, business expertise and the personal, customer experience they deliver. After various presentations and workshops, the team toured the Washington, D.C. area, including a nighttime Segway tour of historic monuments. “Spending a good amount of valuable time together as a team augmented the camaraderie and reinforced the team’s collective strengths by sharing experiences and learnings. The group’s enthusiasm is incredibly strong and they left the meeting highly motivated,” says Clemente. —Andrew Karp
Vision Expo West is a time for eyewear connoisseurs all over the world to gather around and experience the latest news and ideas to hit the industry. Along with the allure of Las Vegas, Expo West is a place to celebrate the joining of familiar faces and the passion that fills the convention center. This year, Tura Inc. is celebrating a special occasion of its own—the 30th anniversary of its longest selling style, Model 311. Since 1938, Tura has been creating fashionable eyewear with high-quality materials and exquisite craftsmanship for both men and women. Model 311 has become an iconic style within the industry, even becoming a staple of American talk show host Sally Jessy Raphael’s signature look. From its namesake Tura collection, the 311 has been available in three top-selling colors—tortoise, black and red, which Raphael was known to wear. In celebration of the anniversary, Tura is launching six new colorways—brown-blue fade, olive tortoise and black tortoise in the optical styles and three limited edition sunwear styles in blue fade, teal fade and blush fade. Frames will come with CR-39 mirrored lenses, a custom leather case and a certificate of authenticity. Tura will also be offering promotions and incentives at its booth during Vision Expo West. Keep an eye out for colorful, tropical decorations and join Tura in continuous celebration all weekend long —Victoria Garcia
C H R I S T I A N
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UPFRONT
FIT FOR A WINNER NER Along with his appearance at Vision Expo East in New York City this past March, Joseph Abboud and Altair Eyewear held a very unique contest at the event for accounts associated with the brand. The grand prize winner of the drawing, Desmond Mitchell from Fayetville, Ga., received a one-d on-one suit fitting with Abboud himself. Joseph Abboud flew thee gwinner to New York to his flagd ship store on Madison Avenue and ed made sure the personally designed ed suit fit perfectly. Seamlessly crafted uit from head to toe, the entire suit ool was made with 100 percent wool fabric from Italy along with 100 percent cupro lining. The jacket was a slim fit, double-breasted, with pick stitch and slanted and ticket pockets, while the pants were a more modern fit with pleats and cuff bottoms.
The tailored, modern style of Abboud’s suits is also portrayed throughout his eye-ond Mitchell wear collection. It is safe to say Mr. Desmond h left with a smile and in style. —Lainey Johnston
DON’T JUST SHOWCASE MERCHANDISE, ACTUALLY IMPROVE YOUR BOTTOM LINE. Offer your patients the convenience of shopping online from their trusted eye care provider and even use their vision benefits.
GOING TO BE AT VISION EXPO WEST? GET A FREE DEMO AT THE JOBSON BOOTH #25119
MYEYESTORE can build, manage and supply your practice’s website with a custom web store for online purchases.
VIRTUAL TRY ON CAPABILITY COMING SOON!
It’s QUICK and EASY, all for one flat monthly fee, we don’t charge by transaction! Exclusively marketed by:
Visit MyEyeStore.com or call 952.463.1200 to learn more.
WX MOXY
FOR WORK. FOR PLAY. FOR LIFE.
Wiley X is the only premium performance sunwear brand whose entire line meets ANSI safety standards. That’s in addition to removable Facial Cavity™ Seals with our Climate Control styles; rubberized nose and temple tips with our Active Series and bold, aggressive looks with the Street Series line. Your customers stay protected with Rx-ready eyewear that’s stylish and comfortable enough to be worn anywhere.
VISION EXPO WEST BOOTH # 20092
WX TIDE 1.800.776.7842 // WILEYX.COM Dealer Ordering
WX PEAK
UPFRONT
ENCHROMA PARTNERS WITH NEWSEUM EnChroma has formed a partnership with the Newseum to make the organization’s exhibits more accessible to people with Color Vision Deficiency (CVD). Through the partnership, color-blind visitors to the Newseum can borrow EnChroma’s glasses to see and fully appreciate the colors in exhibits. The announcement of the partnership coincides with activities by various groups nationwide celebrating the 25th anniversary of the signing of the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). Color blindness is often considered a mild disability, but studies estimate that two-thirds of the 300 million people with CVD feel it’s a handicap. According to EnChroma, 1 in 12 men, and approximately 1 in 200 females, have some form of CVD, of which approximately 80 percent can be helped by its eyewear. “This partnership underscores our commitment to ensuring that all of our exhibits and programs are accessible to people with disabilities,” says Donna Baker, ADA compliance officer at the Newseum, which is located in Washington, D.C. “We are excited to work with EnChroma so that our color-blind visitors can learn from and enjoy all of the Newseum’s exhibits.”
In the color blind, EnChroma’s glasses re-establish the correct balance between signals from three photo-pigments in the eye. Once the correct ratios entering the eye are re-established, the correct color can be perceived. “EnChroma’s mission is to help people with color vision deficiency experience the same color in their work, social and artistic lives as people with normal color vision,” notes Tony Dykes, CEO of EnChroma. “We are pleased that those with color blindness will be able to see more colors in each exhibit when they visit the Newseum.” In addition to making its glasses available for color-blind visitors to borrow at the Newseum, EnChroma’s eyewear will also be available for purchase in the Newseum’s gift shop. EnChroma’s Cx indoor glasses and outdoor sunglasses come in prescription and nonprescription eyewear, and in polycarbonate for pediatric, sports and industrial safety use. EnChroma glasses can be purchased at Enchroma.com and through authorized optical retailers. —AK
THE BIGGEST RAVES ABOUT OUR NEW YOUTH FORCE™ LINE HAVE BEEN COMING FROM GROWN-UPS
What Eye Care Professionals Are Saying About Youth Force™: VISION EXPO WEST BOOTH # 20092 Lisa
NC
Good looking. Far superior to any other kids line. LOVE!
Karen
GA
Flying off the shelves! We sold 3 pair in the first two days and for a small office that is great!
Alesha
CA
Love! Very cute and sturdy.
Megan
NC
Love the various sizes, temples and bands. Love that both the glasses and goggles come together as one.
Lindsey
ND
Very impressed! Best feature is ability to wear under a football helmet.
Julia
TX
Overwhelmingly awesome response! Will be placing another large order soon.
Stacia
AZ
Love the line…will be selling off competition and adding Youth Force to all locations.
Donna
NV
The kids love them!!!
Misty
NV
Those are awesome! I show them over the competition because of all the options.
Mike
NY
Love over the competition - better looking, better design. Pt’s Very Happy!
Karen
TX
OMG! I love them! I’m impressed!
Eye Care Professionals are loving our new Youth Force™ ASTM F803 rated Sports Protective Eyewear line. Please call us to discuss how Youth Force™ can make both kids and their parents happy patients at your practice.
1.800.776.7842 // WILEYX.COM
WILEY X, the WILEY X Eyewear logo, WX, the WX Eyewear logo, the WX WILEY X logo and product names are trademarks or registered trademarks (marca registrada) of Wiley X, Inc., in the U.S. and other countries. Logos: © 2007-2015 Wiley X, Inc. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2015 Wiley X, Inc. All rights reserved.
UPFRONT
What Eye
HEAR
BY VICTORIA GARCIA
u De Rigo Vision and Trussardi Announce Licensing Agreement… De Rigo Vision and Trussardi have announced
a licensing agreement for the production, design and worldwide distribution of the Trussardi optical and sun collections. u Kering Eyewear Unveils First Collection… Officially
launching in June 2015, Kering Eyewear has launched Collezione Uno, one of the group’s nine luxury, sport and lifestyle brands. u Revo Partners with Bono to Fight Vision Impairment and Unnecessary Blindness… Revo has joined forces with
U2 lead singer Bono to help prevent vision impairment and blindness. Buy Vision, Give Sight, a partnership with Brien Holden Vision Institute, will drive $10 million to the fight to improve access to eye health care in under-resourced communities around the world.
u Aspex Eyewear Group Extends Licensing Agreement
with Greg Norman… Aspex Eyewear Group and Great White Shark Enterprises, a multinational corporation headed by Greg Norman has renewed their worldwide license agreement for the distribution of several optical collections through 2015.
u Colors
u Adlens Signs Distribution Deal with D&Company Nordic AB… Adlens has signed an exclusive distribution
in Optics, Ltd. has announced its exclusive North American distribution of Missoni Eyewear and Moschino Eyewear.
partnership with D&Company Nordic AB, a start-up company that will be the distributor for the optical channels across the Nordic and Baltic states.
u Tura Signs New Licensing Agreement with Gwen Stefani Fashion Brands… Tura Inc. has announced a multiyear
u Garrett Leight California and Thierry Lasry Unveil Final Capsule… Garret Leight California and Thierry Lasry have
licensing agreement to introduce a new line of sunwear and eyewear from Grammy award-winning musician and fashion entrepreneur Gwen Stefani’s L.A.M.B and GX by Gwen Stefani brands beginning in 2016.
introduced their third and final collaborative capsule, two separate frames that incorporate both brands’ design elements.
licensing agreement for the production, design and worldwide distribution of the Nina Ricci optical and sun collections which will become effective in September 2015 with the launch of the first collection. u Marcolin S.p.A. Inducts New Manufacturing Facility…
u Eyewear Designs Ltd. Announces License Agreement with Tony Hawk Incorporated… Eyewear Designs Ltd.
announces the launch of the Tony Hawk Eyewear collection beginning with the release of eight styles in August 2015 and five additional styles in October 2015.
EW N
F R E E D I S P E N S A RY D E S I G N / M A N U FA C T U R I N G / I N S TA L L AT I O N
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8 0 0 . 8 2 4 . 4 1 0 6 / FA S H I O N O P T I C A L . C O M
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Already functioning since the beginning of May, Marcolin S.p.A. inaugurates its new manufacturing facility based in Fortogna, Italy.
announced a strategic partnership and the creation of the International Children’s Eyewear Division under the guidance of ZOOBUG founder Dr. Julie Diem Le, as well as a long-term licensing and services agreement.
2015
LA
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u De Rigo Vision Announces Licensing Agreement with Nina Ricci Brand… De Rigo Vision S.p.A. has announced a
u Mondottica and ZOOBUG London Announce Partnership… Mondottica and ZOOBUG London have
LO
in Optics, Ltd. Announces Distribution of Missoni and Moschino Eyewear Collections… Colors
Y C ATA
Int’l Vision Expo West Las Vegas, NV Sept. 17-19 BOOTH #16052
Y O U R M O N TH LY G U ID E TO S TAF F TRAINING OUTSIDE THE BOX
LENSES: CLEANING, AFTERCARE AND ANTI-FOG
Plus DANG, THESE
S P ONS ORE D
NANOFI LM
LENSES ARE S MEARY AND SCRATCH EASILY
Consumers typically reach for the bad stuff to clean their lenses. Dish soap, Windex, hand soap and dirty kitchen towels are, in a word, awful choices for sophisticated lenses and coatings. Try asking this question: “Would you go out and wipe your car’s finish with a dry kitchen towel?” Yet they get frustrated about scratches, smudges and refer to their damaged lens coatings as anyone’s responsibility but their own. This leads to remakes and overuse of scratch warranties. And all this is going on in a value-focused economy.
CLEANING AR AND SUPERHYDROPHOBIC COATINGS These specialty coatings are “slick” and actually repel moisture, which can make cleaning them difficult and spotty. Consider carrying a specialty cleaner, like Nanofilm’s Clarity AR, which is formulated to spread to counteract the slick surface. It spread completely, lifts off soils and carries them away with the wipe of a cleaning cloth.
LENS
BY
C ARE TO WELETTES
Towelettes are small, which makes packing them a breeze. So you’re never left without one, pack a few in each bag, camera case, eyeglass case or purse before you go. More importantly, towelettes are convenient. Cloth and solution are all in one. Simply open, wipe, go. Towelettes will provide you that crystal clear view as you’re bound to come across a few annoying fingerprinted lenses throughout any three-hour tour.
A good lens care plan will not only help your clients to ensure the best possible vision; it also enables you to derive a new and profitable revenue stream from the sales of a family of lens care products. Don’t be timid or uncomfortable with the idea of actively selling cleaners, cloths and wipes. You’ll be surprised at how much more frequently clients will enter your office. Rather than just at exam time or when they’ve sat on their eyewear, they’ll be in to say “hi” while purchasing refill cleaner kits, wipes and a new cloth.
Educating patients about proper lens care finishes a personalized dispensing process
EFFECTIVE
ANTI-FOG F O R S P O RT S, W O R K AND EVERYDAY
You may be surprised at how many people have a problem with fogged eyewear—nearly 50 percent according to some studies. For some, it’s a sports problem, for others, it’s a daily hazard in the workplace. And for others, it’s simply the everyday annoyance of steamy kitchens, temperature changes from indoors to outdoors, or close up craft work. How does fog form? When water molecules strike a surface that is much colder than the ambient air—such as the eyeglass lenses of someone who just walked into the room from the cold—they slow down and stick together faster than air currents can blow them apart. You’ve got “magnetic attraction” creating watery fog. High-performance anti-fog takes advanced science to prevent the clumps of water. Years ago, the best option was a thin coating of soap, which drives water molecules apart, making clumps less likely in the first place.
Hydrophobic anti-reflective coatings make the surfaces “slick,” so the soaps don’t stick reliably. The result? A patchy, partially fogged appearance. Scientists at Nanofilm have developed a completely different approach. Their Defog It anti-fog product coats the lens with a proprietary blend of surfactants not found in common soap substances that both strongly attract water and also grip tightly to all lens surfaces— even the slick hydrophobics. The effect? An invisible layer of molecular “moisture magnets” are firmly bonded all across a lens. Each water molecule is pulled to an anti-fog molecule and held tight in a thin continuous sheet. No clumps form. No fog.
For more information about lens care, go to the Opticians Handbook at www.opticianshandbook.com or the online CE “Lens Care, It’s Something Worth Talking About” at www.2020mag.com/ce.
48 • September 2015 20/20
Styleis an art. Cleaning is a science. Introducing CLARITY ® AR for superhydrophobics Nanofilm advances cleaning technology with yet another first -- CLARITY ® AR lens cleaner, developed specifically for anti-reflective superhydrophobic lenses. CLARITY ® AR wets the surface to lift soils and grease. The result -- a haze-free, streak-free lens.
Satisfaction guaranteed or your money back* Nanofilm meets your difficult cleaning challenges. Learn the science behind this remarkable advancement by reading the technical paper at: www.NanofilmUSA.com *Re-stocking fee may apply, money back guarantee good for 30 days after order is shipped
For a limited time** new customers receive VɈ `V\Y ÄYZ[ VYKLY Use Product Code SPOT715 when placing your order **Offer expires 9/11/15
A
Company
www.nanofilmusa.com • 1-800-883-6266
AR
Better for Superhydrophobic Topcoats
EYES / LENSES / FITTING LENSES / FREE-FORM / FRAMES / SUNWEAR / PATIENT SOLUTIONS / IN-OFFICE / STANDARDS
Plus
LENSES: CLEANING, AFTERCARE AND ANTI-FOG S P ONS ORE D
BY
NANOFI LM
KIDS’
A
The results of a PPG survey (500 adults, March 2012) showed that parents do feel that eyecare professionals could play a greater role in two major ways. First, ECPs should educate parents and their children on lens options that provide better solutions for the way that children use their glasses. Second, there is an essential need for children to better understand how to care for their eyewear. After all, eyeglasses can be a substantial investment, and habits for how well they’re cared for start young.
Place a variety of lens care products right at the front of your reception counter and at your dispensing tables. Be sure all of them are labeled with your store information, as well as a price (this establishes value). Introduce products for the variety of cleaning and care situations a client will encounter with their eyewear. For example: Sports, sweat and general steaminess = anti-fog; on the go with little carrying space = pre-moistened towelettes; Best in value = larger size bottles for home use. Not just a giveaway? A giveaway over time can lessen the value or importance of the product. Keep the quantity that is given away limited. Provide sample towelettes, as they introduce the patient to convenient lens care and will develop into a great repeat business. Be sure to demonstrate their proper use. It should not be thrown into the bag, as in “here’s some cleaner for you.” This also provides an opportunity to inform customers to return for additional products as spray and towelettes are expendable, and microfiber cloths will get dirty.
E YEGLASSES— CAR E AND CLEANING
COMMON
CARE ISSUE S MENTIONED
Here’s a great question to ask… How do you care or clean for your glasses?
More than half of the parents surveyed said that their kids dropped, mishandled or improperly cleaned their eyeglasses or didn’t use a case. Not keeping glasses on or getting them scratched or dirty gets in the way of good visual information. If kids can’t see well through their glasses, they think glasses aren’t working. In addition to being taught the proper way to care for eyeglasses, parents should also understand the options available for making lenses more durable, like scratch-resistant lenses and AR coatings. Combined, they prevent scratches and dirt buildup.
TIPS FOR MORE EFFECTIVE CARE Add a short lens care discussion as part of the exam process, then re-do it at the end of the dispensing process. Ask patients to echo back instructions, adding in humor for kids. In your office, highlight the importance of the doctor speaking directly to kids, especially when they are getting their first pair of glasses. Develop a script that doctors, techs and opticians know for consistency in communications. 52 • September 2015 20/20
SPARKLING FINISH
LENS CARE PRESERVES EYEWEAR AND CUSTOMER SMILES Nanofilm understands the way customers feel about their new glasses—and the disappointment that damage can cause. Dish soaps, household cleaners, hand soaps or window cleaners? The powerful ingredients in these cleaners are designed to remove soap scum and food particles and can contain very aggressive chemicals, which can actually harm the anti-reflective (AR) coating on the lens. Hand soap in your bathroom can contain moisturizers, which means you’re going to have greasy residue all over your glasses. Window cleaners can contain ammonia, which can damage AR coatings. So “soap and water” is a very broad term… the stuff in soap and water can actually damage your glasses. Nanofilm’s Clarity AR lens cleaning solution is specifically formulated to work with the hydrophobic treatments to spread over the lens and grip lens contaminants, lifting them off the lens surface so that they can be cleanly wiped away with a microfiber cloth. The result is a lens cleaning process that gives the wearer crystal clear vision with the security of a cleaner that will not damage the lenses.
Dear Eyecare Professional,
Marcolin is pleased to announce that its integration is officially complete.
Since Marcolin first acquired Viva International Group in December 2013, we now have a consolidated distribution center, customer service call center, and a world-class sales force ready to meet your expectations.
We want to thank you for your patience and loyalty throughout this process. Your support during this integration is truly appreciated. During this time, we have made some major enhancements to our systems and streamlined our process to better serve the industry.
We look forward to continuing our relationship with you, or the opportunity to serve you for the first time. We encourage you to learn more about our broad brand portfolio and how it can be a successful part of your own practice, by contacting one of our sales representatives or our customer service team at 1-888-MARCOLIN.
Sincerely,
Fabrizio Gamberini CEO, Marcolin USA
A T O U C H O F VA N N I T Y
COME VISIT US
BOOTH#16115 FOLLOW US ON
800-876-EYES | my d e s i g n g a l l e r y. c o m FAM M IILY Y/ /ST ST YLE: MAPS/V1170: C139
20/20 F E AT U R E S
Style Eye Style
It’s never all about fashion… but… it is always about STYLE. Fashion is fleeting. Style is forever. Fashion tells fibs. Fashion fluffs. Style honors the truth. Style instills. And eyewear has always been about style. Maybe it has something to do with purpose. And that’s why eyewear is the ultimate stylish accessory. —James J. Spina
FUTURISTIC ANTIQUE SHOP The style notes here hark back to near eyewear antiquity status but the specific combination of keyhole, coloration, sizing and brow bar treatment make for a bold statement and step into the future of SPECulation. GIORGIO ARMANI 8018 from Luxottica
S E P T E M B E R / 2 0 1 5
High
Photographed by JR DELIA Art Director:
JINCY THOMAS Senior Editor:
PATRISHA HOLLY ZABRYCKI Associate Editor:
VICTORIA GARCIA Trend Setting:
JAMES J. SPINA Hair/Makeup:
CHRISTIE LEE/ R.J. BENNETT Hair/Makeup:
LISA NGUYEN Models:
JAMES/MAJOR; ANASTASIA/ IMAGES
THE INCREDIBLE LITE-NESS OF BEING… … Modo. This company’s unique way of approaching eyewear as a socially conscious effort lights up a face and a heart. MODO 4082 from Modo
56 • September 2015 20/20
STYLE FEATURE
| HighSTYLE EYEStyle |
I L LU M I N AT I N G THOUGHT Redefined and refined: The classic and traditional eyewear art of transparency. COLE HAAN 4009 from Altair Eyewear
September 2015 20/20 • 57
STYLE FEATURE
| HighSTYLE EYEStyle |
S P E C -TA C U L A R The near-limitless “specs” of color take this “tortoise” through to new horizons of paint palette brilliance. RECAMIER from Lafont
58 • September 2015 20/20
w w w . l a f o n t . c o m DISCOVER THE NEW FALL & WINTER COLLECTION AT VISION EXPO WEST! THE GALLERIA BOOTH #G2 005 AND THE SUITES
STYLE FEATURE
| HighSTYLE EYEStyle |
S O V E RY F L AT T E R I N G Likely the boldest and most stylish flat-frame front exuding class on the SEEN. ZAC POSEN Tommaso from Kenmark
H E R E K I T T Y, K I T T Y … Can a rimless eyewear sun style “CatEye” dramatically? Of course it can if it is in the right frame of mind, and that iconic mind is Silhouette. SILHOUETTE 8154 from Silhouette
60 • September 2015 20/20
Clear vision is important for everyone. For fishermen, it’s critical. Costa’s patented 580 lens technology has made us the brand of choice for America’s 47 million fishermen. To learn how we can help lure new patients right to your door, call 855-COSTARX.
STYLE FEATURE
| HighSTYLE EYEStyle |
IRID-ESSENCE The glow inherent to this specific coloration radiates a new dimension and multiple varieties of interest as the sourced light angle changes. Think: black… to… white … to … RAINBOW. BRENDEL 922034 from Tura
62 • September 2015 20/20
Let your true self shine through
BECAUSE YOU ARE UNIQUE INTRODUCING TITAN PROFILE an airy, architectural, ultra-light design, with a mix of fashion and sporty colors running through the dynamically sleek temple ends. Ask your Silhouette Account Executive for more information or call 1-800-223-0180 | www.silhouette.com
STYLE FEATURE
| HighSTYLE EYEStyle |
A M AT T E R O F G R E AT I M P O R TA N C E ProDesign details a varying degree of soft-brush finishes into a study of fine contrasts from front to side to inside to… the front-face rivets. 4720 from ProDesign Denmark
S O P H I S T I C AT E D L A DY Lite and lithe is the new map to that “smart” eyewear look so adored by modern women. Note also, the renewed commitment to a deeper elongated rectangle enhanced by the subtle color fade. LIGHTEC 7756L from Morel
64 • September 2015 20/20
Light Our “beta-titanium 153” material is only 0.6 mm thick. Or thin, we should say. A frame so light you don’t even feel like it’s there.
Flexible 0.6 mm thin beta-titanium means absolute comfort, as the frame perfectly adapts to the shape of your face.
Colorful TR 90 Ultra is a 2.1 mm thick elastic polyamide that adds a pop of color to a collection that seamlessly blends lightness and proportions.
TITANIUM LASER CUTTING
594 BROADWAY SUITE 801, NEW YORK, NY 10012, USA T +1 800 223 7610 F +1 800 557 6636 INFO@MODO.COM MODO.COM
Steamy eyewear and sunwear stuff here. Cruise the trends. Roll down the windows and focus on the fall foliage just ’round the next corner. Fall in love with the hidden details. Make a metal note… dig the plastic fantastic. Take a ride as we cruise with some of the hottest EYEway Stars.
—James J. Spina
SNAKE CHARMER Venomous with one of the biggest bites of luxuriously just-right accents in eyewear. ROBERTO CAVALLI Miaplacidus 908 from Marcolin USA
66 • September 2015 20/20
Photographed by STEPHEN MARK SULLIVAN Art Director:
IRIS JOHNSON Senior Editor:
PATRISHA HOLLY ZABRYCKI Associate Editor:
VICTORIA GARCIA Trend Setting:
JAMES J. SPINA Hair/Makeup:
CHRISTIE LEE/ R.J. BENNETT Models:
LAUREN/IMAGES; NIKOLA/MAJOR
September 2015 20/20 • 67
STYLE FEATURE
| I’m an EYEway Star | A COUPLE A THINGS Sport sunwear brands and fashion sunwear brands have a cozy relationship of late when it comes to sharing cutting-edge trending for colors, lens tints and shapes. HOLD ON from Oakley (on her); POLICE S1988 from De Rigo Vision
S TA R E W AY T O H E AV E N LY The wonderful drift to a variety of blue shades in eyewear has resulted in a nostalgic nod to those days when young girls always wore blue CatEyes. The new look is an intensely embraceable style for GenEYE women looking toward the bright side of wearing specs. OGI 9216 from Ogi Eyewear
68 • September 2015 20/20
STYLE FEATURE
| I’m an EYEway Star |
SUPER-SIZED Nothing quiet going on here… and yet every element succeeds with staggering style and confidence. Of particular praiseworthy note: the super flat top rim and bridge with its dramatic corner turndown. RANDY JACKSON LIMITED EDITION X115 from Zyloware
R O L E P L AY I N G Is there any other eyewear out there with such a powerful persona as Cazal? Nope. Cazal exudes CAZAL. It takes a powerful personality and person to don CAZAL. But the rewards are VERY noticeable. CAZAL 873 from Eastern States Eyewear and Ultra Palm Optical
70 • September 2015 20/20
A M E R I C A N L U X U R Y M A K E S I T S M A R K
C O N TA C T@ S TAT E O P T I C A L C O.C O M
STYLE FEATURE
| I’m an EYEway Star |
SCULPTED, Y E T… S O F T The creamy quality of the zyl makes for a whispered boldness, unique to the sunwear arena. JONATHAN ADLER Monte Carlo from Rem Eyewear
72 • September 2015 20/20
VERY EDGY With deft cuts, polished edges and burnished colorations, the bounty is virtually endless in terms of attitude and allure. PHILOSOPHEYES 997 from Thema – A Family Factory
CROSSING THE DOUBLE LINE Looking for the biggest stylistic trend on the EYEway?! We’d say the roaring return of the double brow bar in every way, shape, size and form. TOMI from Götti Switzerland
September 2015 20/20 • 73
Sweet (20)16 Still Photography: NED MATURA
Trend Setting: JAMES J. SPINA
GIRLS just wanna have SUN From top: BON VIVANT Gigi from Ogi Eyewear; ROBERT MARC 903 from Robert Marc; SERAPHINA from Barton Perreira
74 • September 2015 20/20
Sophisticated looks, rich tones and easy to wear shapes highlighted with subtle embellished touches like Mazzucchelli acetate, leather accents and Swarovski Crystals. Café Boutique combines the highest quality materials and construction to create a look of refined elegance for modern day women. Affordable luxury, exclusively distributed through the most discerning independent eye care professionals.
Café Collections Style: CB 1000
800.962.3200
STYLE FEATURE
| Sweet (20)16 |
A renewed celebration of HAVANA From left: PETIE from Moscot; VANNI 1292 from Design Gallery/A Division of Match Eyewear; ERNEST HEMINGWAY 4677 from New York Eye; VERA WANG V371 from Kenmark; SCOTT HARRIS 430 from Europa International; BADGLEY MISCHKA Bradford from The McGee Group
76 • September 2015 20/20
KISSable with coloration From top: CORINNE MCCORMACK Forest Hills from FGX International; BEVEL 2526 from Bevel Specs; NICOLE MILLER Frankfort from L’Amy America
LEGENDARY sun in look, shape, purpose and name From top: BLOOMFIELD from Norman Childs Eyewear; VUARNET VL1315 from Vuarnet
September 2015 20/20 • 77
STYLE FEATURE
| Sweet (20)16 |
Still feelin’ BLUE From top: TC CHARTON Asian Fit Rebecca from Prologue Vision; TONY HAWK 506 from Eyewear Designs; WILLIAM MORRIS LONDON 4700 from Classique Eyewear; VR6 from Vari; BLACKFIN 737 Joliet from Villa Eyewear
Marvel at the MARBLE-EYEZED look of it all From top: ALAIN MIKLI A03051 from Alain Mikli; STEVE from SALT. Optics; KLIIK DENMARK 547 from WestGroupe
78 • September 2015 20/20
STYLE FEATURE
| Sweet (20)16 |
It’s been ELONG time coming From top: OWEN from Spy Optic; Seventy one Austin from A&A Optical; IZOD 2009 from ClearVision Optical; GREG NORMAN 254 from Aspex Eyewear; CLUB LEVEL DESIGN 9173 from Silver Dollar Optical
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REM EYEWEAR’S C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R NICOLAS ROSEILLIER WITH INSIGHT ON A U T H E N T I C I T Y, I N S P I R AT I O N A N D B R A N D S T H AT R O C K
CALL
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ust six years ago Nicolas Roseillier, Rem Eyewear’s creative director, was profiled in 20/20 as an Artist of the Frame; though if you ask Roseillier, that seems like a long time ago. Perhaps it’s because he has since been busy living life and raising two young boys with his wife Marissa. Or because he has been traveling the world in pursuit of design inspiration for his work, and hobnobbing with friend and fellow design collaborator John Varvatos, while rubbing elbows with rock star royalty at Varvatos-sponsored events. Most certainly, it’s because he has since taken Rem Eyewear’s creative direction to new heights. For these very reasons, 20/20 made the obvious 82 • September 2015 20/20
decision to reprise Roseillier’s status as an Artist of the Frame. Well… those reasons and the fact that he and his vision for eyewear is near and dear to the heart and soul of what we do at 20/20. Roseillier, or “Nico” as he prefers, struck up a friendship with 20/20 Editor-in-Chief James Spina in the early days of his optical career. Aside from their mutual respect and passion for eyewear, the two instantly connected on their love for music and anything rock ’n’ roll-inspired. It’s no secret 20/20 secretly aspires to be a music magazine, as evidenced by our past “Musicians in Eyewear” features and said EIC’s nonstop references to music lyrics in our style features, so it’s no surprise we have an innate inclination to
be drawn to anyone who also “gets” the eyewear-music love affair. That admiration for Roseillier and his work continues to blossom as his role within Rem expands and has also seeped into the minds of all of the 20/20 edit team. Sorry guys... don’t mean to rain on your “bromance,” but the ladies of 20/20 are crashing the party. Of course, it’s more than Roseillier’s talents as an eyewear designer. In the most simple of descriptions, Roseillier is simply a likable guy. Don’t let the French accent or his effortlessly cool style fool you—he convincingly looks AND plays every part of the hip artist/ designer but he’s also your everyday guy—a family man doing what he loves, with the warmest, most approachable personality.
ARTIST OF THE FRAME Despite the aforementioned description of Roseillier, as we begin our phone chat, I am suddenly a little intimidated by his voice. The French accent has never thrown me off in the past but then again, I am used to communicating with him in person, usually when I see him at trade shows, or virtually via social media. For some reason over the phone, his accent sounds heavier than usual. After asking him several times to repeat certain words or phrases that were not audible to me, Roseillier good-naturedly jokes with me, “Do you need subtitles?” As we settle in to conversation, I start hearing the same Nico I know.
to learn really fast. I couldn’t even go to the deli by myself. It was tough in the beginning but it made me very humble.” With only two suitcases and an empty loft in Brooklyn, the design duo began creating architectural projects and conceptual art installations. Coincidentally, Roseillier’s partner already had established contacts in eyewear, which aided in securing design and consulting projects for eyewear clients, including Bevel Spectacles, Bada and Scojo. Roseillier became heavily involved in creating marketing and merchandising concepts for these companies, but frame design was not yet on his resume. “We were
| Nicolas Roseillier |
together—it’s a real collaboration.” And it is the valuable lesson of nurturing these relationships and forging collaborations that would launch Roseillier into a new phase of his career—Rem Eyewear. Roseillier’s first meeting with the folks at Rem happened by coincidence at a Vision Expo trade show six years ago. “There are opportunities in life that you just can’t pass up, and that’s basically what happened when I met Rem CEO Mike Hundert for the first time. We clicked right away and at the time, their designer was leaving and they were looking at changing things. That’s really one thing that Mike is always working on,
ME NICO Born in Normandie, France, Roseillier grew up with aspirations to be an optician. With that in mind, he studied micromechanics and engineering. Sounds like a good intro into a career of optics and eyewear design, yes? Actually, not quite yet. All would be put on hold when amidst his studies, Roseillier discovered a passion for architecture, which led him to Paris, where he pursued studies in industrial design. He describes this time as the “fun years,” exploring his creative side and experimenting with design. Here he met a friend who became his business partner for a few years. Around that time, Roseillier designed a range of lamps and light fixtures and was invited to exhibit that collection in an art gallery in the Soho district of New York City. “I met a lot of people in New York—the energy there was really amazing, and there was a different way of thinking; it was something that was really new at the time, so my friend and I started working more and more together, and we decided to create a business together.” The two partners moved to New York and launched their own design firm. Though excited to be in New York, Roseillier didn’t speak a word of English. “It was definitely a challenge—I had
doing well but my business partner and I decided we wanted to take different paths, and I wanted to try different things as well.” Not long after, Roseillier received a phone call from Alessandro Lanaro, founder and CEO of Modo. “He asked me if I can design eyewear, and I replied ‘Sure! Of course I can!’ I had absolutely no idea how,” Roseillier laughs, admittedly. And this folks, is how an Artist of the Frame is born. Armed with only his architecture and industrial design training, Roseillier was determined to give it a shot. “To me, it was something new, and it’s so fashion-oriented... I wear glasses myself so how complicated can it be? But then you realize it’s pretty technical; despite being a fashion accessory, it’s still a medical device.” Roseillier would go on to serve as Modo’s creative director for four years, bringing in and designing collections for high-end designer brands including Derek Lam and 3.1 Phillip Lim. “Those guys were just unbelievable— great designers but also very nice people and very approachable. When it comes to working with designers, I have learned the most exciting aspect of my job is to have that relationship with them and creating that way of designing
BY CHRISTINE YEH PHOTOS BY MARISSA ROSEILLIER PHOTOGRAPHY
that idea of being flexible and thinking outside of the box and changing things around, and creating excitement and different things we can do at Rem.” Three weeks later, Roseillier and his wife relocated to LA where Rem is based, stepping into the role of creative director. Perhaps one of the reasons Hundert and Roseillier connected so well is because the two share the same philosophy when it comes to creating relationships. Before Roseillier’s arrival at Rem, Hundert sent him to every brand license within Rem to get acquainted with each brand. “It’s all about the relationship. If you’re not going to have a good relationship, you’re not going to have good product, and you’re certainly not going to have a good vibe with the collection or that relationship you have with the license,” explains Roseillier. “One of my first meetings before I even moved to LA was meeting with John Varvatos. We clicked right away not because of my background with eyewear, but mainly because of my background in architecture and design.” The two have since become good friends and trusted design collaborators. “When I meet with John, it’s just the two of us sitting in his office reviewing the Continued on page 84 September 2015 20/20 • 83
ARTIST OF THE FRAME
Continued from page 83 new collections I’ve been working on and new concepts and ideas. He tells me what he likes and doesn’t like, but it’s a true collaboration because we look at it together in terms of the brand—does it make sense with the brand and with what he’s working on in his next menswear collection. And when it comes to technicality, he trusts me enough to do it; there’s a trust between him and I, without saying it—we just know what each other likes. The relationship with John is definitely one of the most special for me.” 20/20 witnessed the unique collaborative nature of their relationship firsthand when James Spina shadowed Roseillier and Varvatos during one of these meetings for a feature that ran in our March 2013 issue (“Go! Johnny Go!”). f course, the same approach to creating relationships also applies to Rem’s current portfolio of brand licenses including Converse, Tumi, Lucky Brand and the newest license with home furnishings and accessories designer Jonathan Adler. The first meeting with Adler was not dissimilar to that with Varvatos. “Jonathan is completely a different person than John but we clicked right away as well. It felt like we knew each other for years. He is very funny and has an amazing sense of humor.” As it turned out, when Rem pitched the idea of an eyewear collection for Adler, the Adler team had also been looking to do the same thing. The stars aligned and a new collection was born. As creative director, Roseillier is in charge of product design for all of Rem’s brands but he currently works the most closely with Converse, John Varvatos and Jonathan Adler, serving as head designer. With the growth of Rem’s impact as a well-respected eyewear manufacturer in the industry over the last few years, he has grown his in-house design team with the intention of placing
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| Nicolas Roseillier |
specific people responsible for design within their respective brands. However, he remains actively involved with all brand designs and approves every new style design. “I review everything and redraw whatever I need to. Now that we know what the DNA of the brands are, we know the customers, and we are always working on the trends—we have walls with trend boards. But it’s not just about the trend, it’s about who is the consumer, who is the muse, who do these people aspire to be?” This is especially vital because as well-known and popular these lifestyle brands are, each originate from radically different categories—Converse with sneakers, Jonathan Adler with home wares, Tumi with luggage and John Varvatos with menswear. Roseillier agrees that it can be challenging when it comes to the design approach for each brand. “You have some brands that talk to you better than others… the reason why I joined the company was mainly because of Varvatos and Converse. Those for me are the brands that are closest to me personally—what I wear and the style I like. It really helps when you have good direction from the license. For example, when you look at Converse, why does the consumer love and wear Converse? Specifically what do they feel like, what do they represent? We look at things like this, and we get a lot of guidance from the brand, what the colors they’re looking at next season, what patterns, etc., since Converse is really big on these. And with John, it’s a bit of a different process. We sit down and talk about photography, architecture, music, runway pieces; we go to a studio and we look at what he’s doing for shoes, for belts, etc. For Tumi, we look at materials and
details, and technology especially because it’s really based on technology.” Roseillier again emphasizes the importance of relationships and communicating closely with the brand to stay in sync with what they’re working on and absorb the information projected by them. It is also important that each person on his design team is specifically suited to the brand they’re responsible for. “We select people to work on each brand for particular reasons. The person who works on Varvatos and Adler with me doing all the design and research is completely different than the other people who work on other brands. I have one person that works on Converse with me—she’s the exact demographic of the Converse customer. That’s important too—you need to create your team around what it is you’re trying to do so you’re more true to the brand.” In addition to Rem’s licensed brands, the company recently added SPINE Optics to its portfolio, an OUR Eyewear brand it shares with two other companies. The frames in the SPINE collection utilize an Continued on page 86
Phone: 877-606-7852 | info@us.derigo.com
ARTIST OF THE FRAME
Continued from page 84 exclusive patented hinge allowing the frame to comfortably hug the wearer’s head and face without falling off, requiring minimal adjustment. Roseillier led this unique global design collaboration with Canada-based Centennial Optical and Mondottica U.K. and Hong Kong. “We designed the first collection together as a group, but every part of the world has different needs, so now we’re refining the collection to those specific needs. We’re also currently designing a sunwear collection for SPINE.” oseillier’s design projects today all revolve around eyewear and while his designs stay true to each brand’s DNA, he often draws inspiration beyond eyewear. “I really like looking at things differently and not always being so eyewear-related. My inspiration is never looking at what other people do; it’s looking at other creative genres such as architecture and photography. We also don’t use the eyewear industry as a trend report. I feel like everyone does the same thing if we do that.” He contends that in his earlier years, he always felt like his designs were more minimalist, but today he doesn’t think he has a particular design style. “I find myself now looking at things a little bit differently than I used to. It really depends on who and what I’m designing for, but I think my background between architecture and engineering have mixed more after all these years.” He also cites function as a driving force behind his designs, likely a result of his fused training in the aforementioned skills. “If you’re going to design something, it has to have a purpose and function.” A perfect example of this is the guitar head hinge design in the John Varvatos collection. “It’s not just a logo plaque—there’s actually another piece of metal on the inside that encapsulates
R
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| Nicolas Roseillier |
the whole temple, so that it functions as holding the whole thing together.” It’s certainly a genius hinge/function in 20/20’s musically-biased eyes. Another important element that fuels his design inspiration is storytelling. “We’re mainly telling stories with every brand collection we design—that’s really what we do. They have to make sense with each other, make sense that the story goes with the brand and goes with the collection. That’s what we created in Varvatos; there are those four icons that portray the story of the brand and who the story of the consumer is and who’s the muse, and we really build up on top of that.” In addition, Roseillier ensures that everything is tailormade for each collection. Every material, every color, every acetate is unique to each brand. “This means that we never use the same colors across different brands—the colors we use for Varvatos, we would never use for Adler. So you will never find the same exact color in each brand. It’s a very complicated procedure, but I do believe that is why we are so creative and different.” The goal here is to cater specifically to each brand and achieve an authentic feel when Rem sales reps go to their accounts and open the eyewear trays. The authenticity factor can also be attributed to Roseillier’s preference for remaining traditional when it comes to conceptualizing each style design—he and his team draw everything by hand. “When I designed for Modo, I had time to design on the computer but today I actually find that there is something different about drawing by hand—the eye shape and the curves drawn by hand with a pencil and paper give me a different sensibility that you just can’t get on the computer. That’s my personal point of view; a lot of people don’t share that but I think it makes a huge difference.” That sensibility is also translated to the end customer when they see, touch and try on the eyewear, and it all goes back to story-
telling and function. “There’s always a story that we create around the collection, and there are the technical details as well but at the end of the day, do you like it on your face? Is it comfortable? It’s that simple— ask yourself if you love it and if you think it makes you a better person or a different person, a new face or whatever it is you’re trying to achieve.” Quality also ranks high, and Roseillier and his team set strict standards for quality control. “Design is part of engineering and engineering is part of design, so they both need to be mixed together to get the most beautiful product but the most perfect product as well.” Roseillier also believes there is more to just selling and fitting a frame so it’s important to educate eyecare professionals on frame design. In 2013, Rem sponsored a 20/20 CE course giving ECPs an inside look at the dynamics behind eyewear manufacturing and design. Roseillier and Hundert penned the course for publication and also taught four live courses at Vision Expo. The course remains one of 20/20’s most popular courses, and the live version was extremely wellreceived. For Roseillier, the course fulfilled something he wanted to do for many years— teaching design and sharing his knowledge. The most important aspect of the course to him was emphasizing that it is not only about the country of origin when it comes to eyewear manufacturing; the design process, the engineering process, the quality control process, etc., are all significant. He doesn’t hold back in stating that there is a common misconception in the industry that the product is high quality only if it’s made in Italy, France or Japan. “We still have that old thinking and it’s not true… I travel all around the world, and I see factories everywhere. I go to Japan for Varvatos, and I go to China for the other brands, and let me tell you, I found some factories in China that are way more superior than any other factory. It’s really amazing because it’s about Continued on page 88
NEW ARRIVAL MODEL 4720 -22
4720-22 is hatched from the essence of traditional Scandinavian craftsmanship. The Nordic minimalistic heritage of this collection is highlighted by the handmade detailing in front, the structure of the material and the brushed strokes ďŹ nishing the surface. To obtain coherence in the frame, the acetate material from the temples is represented by the rivets in the front.
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ARTIST OF THE FRAME
Continued from page 86 that craft, about the passion. That’s one thing for me that resonates the most. If you have the passion for what you do, you only can make it right, especially when you’re in a factory and people love what they do and have the passion doing it. And I’m not talking about the huge factories like the ones some of the larger manufacturers use, I’m talking about people who still make the craft, who still make things by hand and polish, and they get pleasure from what they’re doing. And you find this all around the world, not just Japan and Italy.” Roseillier believes not only in eyewear has there been a resurgence in passion for the craft and making things by hand, but in everything from beer to old-school barber shops, to handmade knives. In his early years at Rem, Roseillier was only involved in product, but his role has since evolved into managing all creative aspects of the company including marketing and merchandising. “It’s my job to oversee all creative elements of how the company looks on the outside in addition to the inside. Product is still my main focus, 88 • September 2015 20/20
| Nicolas Roseillier |
but I need to make sure that the product matches the marketing, as well as with the images, displays and POP, etc.” It all goes back to connecting the brand with a story and relating that brand experience to retailers and their customers. It’s not surprising Roseillier is very active in interacting with the industry, especially at trade shows and never hides behind the scenes. “It’s very important to be in touch with the customer, the people you’re friends with, even the competitors. If you only stay in the office to design a frame, you’re not going to design a frame for the right person. You’re not designing frames for yourself… that’s really one thing for me that’s important… it makes me happy when I design, but you’re really designing for the customer, you’re designing for the buyer, you’re designing for the consumer.” Roseillier’s eye for design and creativity combined with his knack for fostering relationships have not only reaffirmed his Artist of the Frame status but has garnered him a newfound respect as a multitalented designer. He has rightfully earned a coveted spot alongside some of optical’s most
renowned designers including Blake Kuwahara, Patty Perreira and Christian Roth. When I proclaim this to Roseillier, he candidly laughs and says, “There are a lot of people out there but I don’t think I’m there yet… Just six years ago, I thought this was a part-time job!” In line with his humble nature, I do believe he is truly humbled to hear this but it still surprises me. “I guess I’m still very modest about that, and I truly respect these designers a lot. Maybe in my head I think they have already arrived because most of them all design for their own labels.” He especially admires Blake Kuwahara’s story. “For many years, Blake designed for licenses, and then he said I’m going to do my own thing, and he did it, and it’s a beautiful product, and it’s very him. He accomplished more than just the product. That’s the beauty of it—the product represents him and not anybody else.” Somewhere down the road, he hopes to work with some of these designers and learn from them, and perhaps even design his own eyewear label. “I want to take everything that I’ve learned and experienced, all the stuff that I might not be able to do for some brands because it doesn’t fit with the brand’s DNA and be able to put this into one collection—this is what I’ve always dreamed about.” Roseillier’s early opticianry aspirations might not have panned out, but his calling as an eyewear artisan seemed inevitable. “Since there’s no specific school for teaching eyewear design, so many of my friends and eyewear designers I know all have very different backgrounds, and everyone has a different story on how they landed in eyewear design.” In HIS storied past, the road to eyewear design was a circuitous one, and like any artist with a vision, uncharted territory remains on his horizon. He may not have “arrived” yet in his humble mind, but we argue otherwise: Nico—you are HERE. And you’re taking the eyewear world by storm. ■
Visi Vi isi sion on Exp on x o 17 1701 019 9 Mode Mo ode dell 90 005 5 800.32 800. 80 327. 7.51 5185 85
Artist of the Lens: David Rips, President and CEO, Younger Optics
Younger at Heart F
or a young David Rips, helping out in his father’s business Younger Optics, was more than just a way to earn some pocket money. From the age of 8, when he started doing menial jobs at the Younger factory in Los Angeles, Rips was drawn to lenses and their light-bending capabilities. Guided by his father Irving Rips, Younger’s founder and a noted lens designer, Rips immersed himself in optics. Rips went to work full time for Younger after earning a business degree at the University of Southern California. At Younger, he took on roles in business, accounting, marketing and planning. By 1980, he was reporting on the state of the company at board of directors meetings. He soon became assistant to the president and assistant secretary, then secretary of the corporation and a member of the board of directors. In 1992, he was named president and CEO. He had not yet turned 40. Under Rips’ direction, Younger has evolved from a family-run company to a professionally-run corporation. The company has steadily grown to become one of the largest privately-held ophthalmic lens manufacturers in the world and a leading supplier of prescription polarized (NuPolar) lenses, Trivex (Trilogy) lenses and Transitions photochromic lenses. A strong proponent of polarized lenses, Rips has developed educational materials that have helped both labs and ECPs grow their polarized sales. Under his leadership, Younger became a key participant in the development and introduction of Trivex material in the optical industry. He continues to encourage innovative products such as Younger’s Transitions Drivewear and spearheads collaborative projects with optical labs and other manufacturers in the industry. In 2013, he was inducted into The Vision Council’s Optical Laboratory Hall of Fame. —Andrew Karp
Do you recall what started it? Growing up, my father was always talking about optics and lenses, and had converted our garage into an optical laboratory for precision optics. I even used to attend Optical Society meetings with him at a very young age. 90 • September 2015 20/20
At what age did you start working at Younger Optics, and what were some of your earliest jobs there? Believe it or not, I started probably at around age 8 to 10. I had to do most of the jobs around the shop, especially the “dirty” ones like cleaning out glass centrifuges from the glass generators. My dad was a difficult task master, and if the lenses I made were not up to his specifications, he could get very emotional. I remember one time, he threw a tray of lenses (an entire day’s work) against the wall and docked me a day’s pay! I’m not
sure that would fly in today’s world, but it made me learn fast. Did your father teach you specific concepts about optics and share practical information about lens manufacturing and design? Absolutely! To make early progressives and seamless lenses, we hand-made metal cams that would trace and guide a lathe that cut ceramic blocks to a progressive curvature, then we would slump (heat, melt and form) a ground lens to the shape of the ceramic block. When plastics first started appearing,
PHOTOGRAPH BY POLLY BARROWMAN
L&T: When did your fascination with optics begin? Rips: I think I made my first telescope lens at about age 10. It was made from carpet coasters for furniture. I ground and polished it completely by hand.
Continued from page 91
David Rips with one of the rare books in his personal library
we would do all types of experiments trying to cast our first lenses. I still remember having to turn the knob of my mother’s kitchen oven to try to duplicate the suggested lens cycle to make plastic lenses. I won’t even talk about the experiments to try to make IPP, an explosive organic peroxide catalyst!
Have you ever considered another career choice? Growing up, in my quest to find an “easier way to make a living,” I always thought I would be a medical doctor. Then I thought being a lawyer/ CPA sounded good, but in the end, I wound up doing what I was raised for… running Younger Optics.
Did your father encourage you to work at Younger? Yes and no. He always taught me everything as if I would; however, he also encouraged me to find an easier way to make a living. Making lenses was hard work, especially back then.
What were some of the challenges you encountered when you led the transformation of Younger from a family-run business into a modern corporation, and how did you address those challenges?
Younger, the family business, had to be completely rebuilt into a professionally-run business. I was lucky; I brought in Tom Balch, one of the founders of SOLA USA, to help me do it. To date, that is still my single best decision. At Younger, like at many small family companies, nepotism used to be a problem, where everything was done by a family member. We moved away from that and built a world-class team, so that the company could go beyond the capabilities of the founding family. In the early days, Younger operated out of antiquated Continued on page 92 September 2015 20/20 • 91
Artist of the Lens: David Rips, President and CEO, Younger Optics
Continued from page 91 buildings that were arranged in a haphazard way. We had to move to a new facility that was world-class. Finally, Younger had to become international, both in terms of manufacturing and sales, to be able to grow and compete in an industry that was getting tougher and tougher. When did you start collecting antique books? My dad started collecting in the 1980s. He ran his library much like he did the early Younger, not with a disciplined approach, but going in many directions at once. When he passed away in 2007, he left me his collection, and I have turned it into a world-class library. It’s a similar story to the transformation of Younger. What are some of the favorite books in your library, particularly books about optics, and what do you value about them? For optics, above all, stands Newton’s Opticks (1704). In science, the four most important texts of the Scientific Revolution are Newton’s Principia (1687), Copernicus’ De Revolutiomnibus (1543), Vesalius’ Fabrica (1543) and Darwin’s Origin of the Species (1859). I have first editions of the last three; the Principia is still in my target sights. How do these rare texts, some of them centuries old, inform your outlook on modern lenses and lens design? Believe it or not, for the most part, lens design is lens design. Earlier scientists such as Newton, Descartes and Kepler, knew a lot about lenses and lens curvatures. It seems that throughout history, lens makers have held a special place in society. Even the philosopher, Spinosa, was a lens maker! If you could have a conversation about optics with any of the authors represented in your library, who would it be? What would you discuss? That’s easy—Isaac Newton. He was just so far ahead of his time. He may have had the greatest mind in the history of man. He was 92 • September 2015 20/20
intellectually fearless—for example, he tested the effect of the curvature of the eye on sight by sticking a small spoon behind his eye, pushing it forward, to see how it would change his vision! I could discuss modern lens design with him, and I am sure he would not only understand it, but look at it in a unique way and come up with some original ideas. He literally could do anything. To what extent are you involved in research and development at Younger? What are some of the products that have directly resulted from your input? Tom Balch, our COO, has more direct involvement in the actual R&D, but we discuss most projects every day, including our recent products like Camber, short corridor progressives, polarized lenses and specialty niches of every kind. I like to think I had some hand in most of them. As a manager, how hands-on are you? In marketing and sales, I’m very handson. Less so in almost every other area. My favorite responsibility is making sure we are close to our customers. How do you keep in touch with what’s going on at the doctor and dispenser level? By visiting them, giving seminars and talking to ECPs. And by visiting small and large labs who are close to their ECPs. I also read almost every word of almost every optical magazine. Camber Technology is Younger’s proprietary approach to designing and manufacturing digital lenses. What led to its development? As a lens manufacturer, Younger was watching digital technology very carefully. While there were many advantages to the technology, we felt that the problems associated with moving the progressive from the front surface to the back were being ignored. It is a long-held rule of optics that there is an optimal front curve for every power through the lens. This was built into traditional progressives when the progres-
sive was in the front. Camber incorporates the best of traditional optics and modern free-form technology. Can any free-form lens benefit from Camber Technology? Yes. Not so much through the center of the lens, but as you get to oblique angles, then Camber really helps. Of course, the wearer must look through the intermediate and reading zones at an oblique angle, so this is where Camber can really help any design, as long as it has been customized for Camber. Younger is the owner of IOT, a company that provides exceptional compensated to customized free-form designs. How would you assess the future of the private label opportunity in free-form lenses? I believe the future is very bright for private label free-form lenses, just as it is for branded free-form lenses. This technology is exploding, and throughout the world, more and more people are becoming able to afford better and more technical eyewear. Add to that the aging population demographics, and I see a great future for both private label and branded products. Each serves a different market segment and each has its appeal. The point is to get the best eyewear on as many faces as possible. Different things appeal to different people. The lens industry, and optical in general, continues to consolidate. Why does Younger Optics remain independent? At Younger, we sometimes feel like “The Last Man Standing.” While consolidation is a natural evolution in most industries, there is always a place for those companies that see the world differently. This is especially true in research and development, where its purpose is to find products that “shake up” the status quo. It is hard to do that as part of a larger organization, which by its nature is the “status quo.” Younger’s independence is at the heart of its creativity, both in the way it develops products, and the way it treats its customers. ■
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SPECIAL FEATURE
Christian Roth
BEHIND
Eric Domege
COLE HAAN from Altair Eyewear
HAUTE MAROQUINERIE from Christian Roth
I Blake Kuwahara
94 • September 2015 20/20
n order to help you better understand every in and out of eyewear, 20/20 strives to inform our readers of the significance of eyewear for men, women, Millennials and GenEYE. A deep understanding of eyewear offers the opportunity to provide ideal selling tips for opticians, keeping them up to date with the latest trends in eyewear, all compiled into our unique Seller’s Guide. This year, we reached out to some credible eyewear experts to find out what it takes to master eyewear in some of the most popular niche categories. From designers to executives, these eyewear professionals open up about some of the most important aspects within eyewear, allowing us to visualize the process that takes place behind the lenses. To know eyewear is to love it. When you start to acknowledge the intricate yet subtle details, shapes, colors and styles, you see that it is so much more than just creating a basic, functional frame. You begin to admire designers for their attention to detail and consideration for the variety of customers they aim to please. “Fashion in general is iterative,” says eyewear designer BLAKE KUWAHARA. “It’s about the subtle nuances, craftsmanship, quality, attention
to little details, exclusivity and providing something unexpected.” Kuwahara is a firm believer in meticulously creating a spectacular product, as he also designs all of the packaging, cases, displays and accessories for his self-named eyewear collection. Presentation clearly goes far beyond the frame. One of the key factors in the fashion industry is staying up to date, and that doesn’t stop at eyewear. Although there are some styles that withstand the everchanging trends, there is always something new to look for. Before you even consider creating a frame, you must know exactly what your customers want. “Today’s luxury consumers are very demanding,” states ERIC DOMEGE of CHRISTIAN ROTH. “They are unique individuals and expect trend-setting eyewear combined with attention to detail and craftsmanship.” Christian Roth has always created frames that are a beautiful addition to what’s in style, all while keeping in mind the importance of quality. Their upcoming Haute Maroquinerie Collection features frames covered in a variety of skins, all hand-tooled in France. As the unique production of eyewear evolves, the industry itself becomes more interesting. The concept of supply and demand is in full force as designers are eager to create the next best thing for customers who insist on having it. Eyewear finds amazing ways to reveal a customer’s individuality; therefore, having just a single pair seems unheard of. “What’s fun about the eyewear
THE SEEN BY LAINEY JOHNSTON
Vuarnet
Cynthia Shapiro
Lucio Lozza
industry is the fact that consumers are discovering the fact that they can—like footwear and clothing—have multiple pairs of eyewear that are occasionspecific,” says DAVID MADDOCKS, CMO and GM of Business Development at COLE HAAN. Although it is easy to lust over a beautiful frame with unique color, texture and shape, we must always give special recognition to the frames that do their job well, that is, improving a patient’s vision. Considering again the evolution of eyewear production, designers have gone above and beyond to create the most durable, long-lasting, clear, quality lenses for both ophthalmic and sun frames. Vuarnet, a sunwear company based in France, specializes in mineral lenses for their variety of different frames that come in multiple shapes and tints. The mineral lens offers a significantly high resolution and level of protection, while also improving depth perception, contrast and color definition. “There is no question that the best lenses are mineral glass, twice as high performance than polycarbonate, CR39, nylon Trivex or other plastic lenses,”
says U.S. CEO of VUARNET, LUCIO LOZZA, “Mineral glass with the right AR treatment and color makes a huge difference in clarity of vision, performance and durability.” Vuarnet’s new Blue Polarized, for example, blocks 90 percent of infrared light to better protect the eyes. Although it may be hard to believe, there was a point where the only reason to wear eyewear was to improve your vision. Thankfully, those days are dead and gone. Eyewear is as much of a fashion statement as any pair of shoes or handbag. As REM EYEWEAR creative director NICOLAS ROSEILLIER puts it, “Eyewear started off as a medical device, and now it’s also an indemand fashion accessory. I love the versatility of eyewear and how its purpose has evolved over the years.” Rem Eyewear is the leader in this global collaboration that has created SPINE Optics, an incomparable collection that brings a new level of functional technology to eyewear. SPINE is described as “eyewear with a backbone,” fitting any face shape or head size and automatically retracts when removed from the face due to its dual springs and spun wire cable. Eyewear is universal. Much of its production takes place overseas, and the appreciation for a
pair of quality frames is shared worldwide. Designers such as CYNTHIA SHAPIRO, vice president and founder of CINZIA DESIGNS, are moving toward new ventures and working to create more factories right here in the United States. “Having a factory here in the U.S. is going to allow us to show opticians all over the country what goes into making a quality pair of acetate frames,” says Shapiro. “To me, that means opticians will be better prepared to explain the benefits of quality eyewear to their patients, and even explain the costs that go into quality manufacturing.” Cinzia Designs, a division of Europa International, strives to create high-quality designer eyewear, which all stemmed from Shapiro’s dream to find a more stylish alternative to the reading glasses found at local drugstores. With our September 15 Seller’s Guide issue rapidly approaching, we hope our readers gain an even better understanding of the various issues discussed AND in our always informative monthly Seller’s Guide features throughout 2016. With the strength and knowledge right here at 20/20, fueled by the insight from expert voices, we hope to influence a prosperous and powerful future in optical for all of our readers. ■ September 2015 20/20 • 95
Tech Explorer
Caring for
BOOMERS’
VISION: A Balancing Act Blasting to you online soon:
VIDEOS… HOT TRENDS in lens products and technology… TOPICAL Content. Keep YOUR eye on www.2020mag.com to find out when, where and… why.
By Sara Bonizio Baby Boomers, the generation born between 1946 to 1964, are known in the United States for enjoying the perks of their success—travel, sports and leisure activities, and consumer goods. According to senior Web community ThirdAge.com, they control over 80 percent of personal financial assets and more than half of all consumer spending. However, it is also important to note that many Boomers are delaying retirement (42 percent, per a 2011 Associated Press survey) and remaining in the workforce to stay on top of ever-increasing costs of living and medical care; still others who have retired are living more prudently on their fixed incomes. Overall, the needs of the aging body, including the eyes, renders increased spending on medical care (including eyewear and eyecare) inevitable. Though Boomers did not grow up with technology in the same way as the oft-discussed Millennials, they are in fact quite 96 • September 2015 20/20
tech-savvy, and many have high disposable income. This is a generation now comprised entirely of presbyopes, who are excellent candidates for customizable digital progressive lenses, as well as high-end frames; they are recognized as possessing a more youthful attitude than the previous generation did at their age and have the means to indulge a heightened fashion sense. But as they say, you can’t fool Mother Nature—eyecare professionals must treat the needs of this active, aging population with special consideration. CARING FOR THE AGING EYE
Beyond the Standard Eye Exam: While the American Optometric Association now recommends a comprehensive eye exam for everyone annually, regardless of age, dilation and ancillary testing for age-related conditions and diseases of the eye such as glaucoma, age-related macular degeneration, cataracts, diabetic retinopathy and low vision become
increasingly important as patients age. Thanks to rapid advances in technology, the latest generation of refraction and diagnostic devices on the market allow optometrists and dispensers to provide a modern eyecare experience for patients by both augmenting and enhancing the chair exam. Many newer tools that perform tests such as corneal topography, pachymetry and non-contact tenometry are easily operated by any level of practice staff, often with the touch of a button—allowing practice managers to streamline workflow. The AOA, along with The Vision Council and the National Eye Institute, among others, frequently publish robust digital content and resources on their websites. These allow dispensers to supplement the OD visit with important information in layman’s terms about eye diseases, as well as everyday conditions such as dry eye, increased sensitivity to glare and the need for more light to read and perform tasks.
Low Vision: Low Vision: Low vision—visual Low vision—visual impairment impairment ommending ommending lens materials. lens materials. Thinner, Thinner, lighter lighter they look they at look theirat golf their ballgolf or try balltoorline try up to line a up a that is that not correctable is not correctable through through surgery, surgery, polycarbonate polycarbonate and high-index and high-index lenses will lenses shot. will Such shot. aSuch patient a patient would would be an ideal be an ideal pharmaceuticals, pharmaceuticals, glassesglasses or contact or contact lens- lensensure ensure greatergreater wearingwearing comfortcomfort for patients. for patients. candidate candidate for a “golf for alens,” “golfinlens,” which in awhich small a small es—is es—is associated associated primarily primarily with adults with adults At Work: At Work: For many For Baby many Boomers, Baby Boomers, an near an segment near segment is placed is placed in the lower in theoutside lower outside over the over agethe of age 60, of which 60, which comprises comprises a entrepreneurial a entrepreneurial secondsecond (or even(or third) evenwind third) wind corner corner of just the of just dominant-eye the dominant-eye lens. Inlens. this In this large number large number of BabyofBoomers. Baby Boomers. As such, As such, in theirincareers their careers is common; is common; as such,asmany such, many position, position, the near theseg near is completely seg is completely out of out of practitioners practitioners shouldshould be familiar be familiar with diswith are dis-frequent are frequent computer computer users up users to and up even to and even the waythe during way during play, but play, provides but provides enoughenough pensingpensing devicesdevices such assuch magnifiers as magnifiers (hand- (handbeyondbeyond retirement. retirement. For presbyopes For presbyopes who who near vision nearto vision readto theread scorecard the scorecard and lunch and lunch held, standing held, standing or spectacle-based) or spectacle-based) and and work long work hours longathours a desk, at aandesk, occupational an occupational menu inmenu the clubhouse. in the clubhouse. also non-optical also non-optical products products such assuch taskas task lens such lens assuch a computer as a computer or “office” or “office” lens, is alens,Ais Strong a A Strong Finish:Finish: As the eyes As the age, eyes theage, ability the ability lighting, lighting, to enlarge to enlarge and illuminate and illuminate writtenwritten better option better option than a traditional than a traditional progressive. progressive. to resisttoglare resistand glare seeand reflective see reflective road signs road signs or illustrated or illustrated material. material. There There are also are also This lens This is designed lens is designed with larger, with distortionlarger, distortiondecreases; decreases; pupils shrink pupils and shrink don’t anddilate don’tasdilate as many new manyhigh-tech new high-tech options options available available free viewing free viewing areas for areas computer for computer distance distance much in much the dark, in thereducing dark, reducing the amount the amount of of with computerized with computerized featuresfeatures that allow thattext allow text and up-close and up-close objects,objects, with a small with adistance small distance light entering light entering the eyethe and eye making and making night night to be scanned to be scanned and enlarged. and enlarged. viewingviewing area. area. drivingdriving even more evenpotentially more potentially hazardous. hazardous. SimpleSimple plastic plastic magnifiers magnifiers are a great are alowgreat lowIn the non-progressive In the non-progressive task-specific task-specific multi- multiAn anti-reflective An anti-reflective coatingcoating should should be strongly be strongly cost branded cost branded giveaway giveaway idea foridea practices for practices to focal to category, focal category, the E-Dthe trifocal E-D trifocal lens haslens an hasrecommended an recommended to Boomer to Boomer patients, patients, espe- espeuse at community use at community events events or as small or asgiftssmall gifts“executive-style” “executive-style” intermediate intermediate segment segment in cially in drivers, cially drivers, on any on lensany purchase. lens purchase. with-purchase with-purchase for patients for patients to keeptoinkeep the in the the bottom the bottom half of half the lens of the and lens a smaller and a smaller In our In constantly-connected our constantly-connected age, even age, even car, desk car,ordesk purse, or purse, even outside even outside of a low of a flat-top low flat-top segment segment for nearfor vision near embedded vision embedded older Boomers older Boomers are frequent are frequent users ofusers digital of digital vision context. vision context. within within the intermediate the intermediate segment. segment. This is This a devices is a devices such assuch computers, as computers, tabletstablets and and good choice good choice for patients for patients who need whoa need very a very smartphones—all smartphones—all of which of which emit High emit High GETTING GETTING PERSONAL: PERSONAL: wide field wide offield viewof forview objects for objects at arm’satlength arm’s length EnergyEnergy VisibleVisible (HEV)(HEV) Light. Light. The effects The effects CUSTOMIZED CUSTOMIZED LENSES LENSES AND AND and also and must alsobe must ablebetoable see clearly to see clearly both both of exposure of exposure to harmful to harmful “blue light” “blue rays light” rays FINISHES FINISHES FOR MAXIMUM FOR MAXIMUM COMFORT COMFORT close-up close-up and in the anddistance. in the distance. go beyond go beyond eyestrain eyestrain and discomfort: and discomfort: Presbyopic Presbyopic Boomers Boomers who require who require a distance a distance Additionally, Additionally, variable variable focus eyewear, focus eyewear, There There is mounting is mounting evidence evidence that due that todue to prescription prescription are excellent are excellent candidates candidates for which for has which seen hassignificant seen significant development development in this in light’s this light’s ability ability to go further to go further into the into the personalized personalized progressive progressive lenses, lenses, which are whichthe areindustry the industry over theover lastthe decade, last decade, provides provides a eye, a it may eye, itcontribute may contribute to macular to macular degen-degendigitallydigitally surfaced surfaced for a customized for a customized fit and fit and single-distance single-distance viewingviewing experience experience for up to for up to eration eration (already(already a concern a concern for older forpatients) older patients) maximum maximum comfort. comfort. This process This process allows allows three prescriptions—near, three prescriptions—near, intermediate intermediate and over and time. over Blue-blocking time. Blue-blocking lenses,lenses, which which dispensers dispensers to optimize to optimize the refracting the refracting distance—which distance—which the wearer the wearer can switch can switch also have alsoanti-reflective have anti-reflective properties, properties, shouldshould optometrist’s optometrist’s prescription, prescription, based on based the on between the between depending depending on his or onher hisactivity. or her activity. be offered be offered to patients to patients of all ages of allwhose ages whose fitting fitting parameters parameters and theand patient’s the patient’s posi- posiAt Play:AtFor Play: active Forlifestyles, active lifestyles, premium premium sun- sunintake intake surveyssurveys indicate indicate significant significant digital digital tion of tion wear.ofThe wear. surfacing The surfacing processprocess correctscorrects wear offerings wear offerings are a must: are aPolarized must: Polarized lenses lenses device device usage. usage. higher-order higher-order aberrations, aberrations, resulting resulting in morein more reducereduce reflections reflections and eliminate and eliminate glare. glare. preciseprecise visual acuity visualand acuity minimal and minimal distortion. distortion. BOOMING BOOMING BUSINESS BUSINESS These These benefits benefits enhance enhance popular popular nautical nautical The fitting The parameters fitting parameters captured captured in advance in advance The Boomer The Boomer lifestyle—mobile, lifestyle—mobile, but often but often recreational recreational activities activities that Boomers that Boomers enjoy, enjoy, of lens of fabrication lens fabrication by digital by measuring digital measuring sys- such sys- assuch by age-related by age-related conditions— conditions— fishing as fishing and boating, and boating, as wellasaswellmitigated as mitigated tems also tems yield alsogreater yield greater degreesdegrees of accuracy of accuracy createscreates a prime a prime sellingselling opportunity opportunity for for makingmaking drivingdriving and outdoor and outdoor sports sports more more in measuring in measuring vertex vertex distance, distance, pantoscopic pantoscopic dispensers, dispensers, from customized from customized lenses to lenses pre- to precomfortable. comfortable. Photochromic Photochromic lenses,lenses, long long tilt andtilt face-form and face-form angle. The angle. resulting The resulting pair pair sunwear sunwear to task-specific to task-specific eyewear. eyewear. popularpopular amongamong this generation, this generation, are alsoare analsomium an mium of glasses of glasses is tailor-made is tailor-made for the for patient, the patient, with with With aWith studya by study the by Urban the Urban Institute Institute pro- proexcellent excellent choicechoice for busy forBoomers busy Boomers who who the largest the largest viewingviewing area where area where he or she he or want she the jecting jecting that average that average annualannual out-of-pocket out-of-pocket want convenience the convenience of not juggling of not juggling their their needs it.needs it. health care health spending care spending for seniors for seniors will more will more indoor indoor glasses glasses and sunglasses. and sunglasses. As a natural As a natural part of part the aging of theprocess, aging process, skin skin than double between between 2010 and 2010 2040, andopti2040, optiEven non-retired Even non-retired Boomers Boomers play a lot playofa lotthan of double loses its loses elasticity its elasticity and becomes and becomes thinner. thinner. cal practices are well-served are well-served to cater toto cater to golf: Many golf:business Many business deals take deals place takeon place the oncal thepractices Facial skin Facial onskin andon around and around the nose thewhere nose where aging Americans aging Americans with eyecare with eyecare and eyewear and eyewear course.course. GolfersGolfers over ageover 45 frequently age 45 frequently com- comrecommendations recommendations that suit that their suitunique their unique glasses glasses sit is a prime sit is a example, prime example, and dispensand dispensplain that plain thethat near theportion near portion of general-purof general-purneeds and needs varying and varying budgets. budgets. LT LT ers should ers should take this take intothis account into account when recwhen pose rec- multifocal pose multifocal lenses gets lenses in gets the way in the when way when
WHEN U TXT, UR EYES R EXPOSED TO BLUE-VIOLET LIGHT
Mobile phones and other digital devices emit Blue-Violet light, which may be harmful to your patients’ eyesight.
Revolutionary Protection for Eyes
Crizal.com
Booth # LP11065
©2015 Essilor of America, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Essilor, Crizal, and Prevencia are trademarks of Essilor International.
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BLUE-VIOLET LIGHT?
Revolutionary Protection for Eyes
Booth # LP11065
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ordinary lens
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Š2015 Essilor of America, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Unless indicated otherwise, all trademarks are the property of Essilor International and/or its subsidiaries. E-SPF and the 25 E-SPF design are trademarks of Essilor International.
RESISTS
glare
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PLUS 25X MORE UV PROTECTION than going without eyewear* *E-SPFÂŽ is a global index rating the overall UV protection of a lens. E-SPF was developed by Essilor International and endorsed by 3rd party experts. A lens rating of E-SPF 25 means that an eye protected by the lens will receive 25 times less UV exposure than an unprotected eye. E-SPF of 25 when a CRIZAL lens is made with any lens material other than clear 1.5 plastic.
For more information, contact your local Essilor Sales Consultant.
Crizal.com
Special Report
LAB WATCH
SURVEYu u TOP FIVE REASONS FOR SELECTING LAB
4%
8%
8%
10%
14%
92%
92%
88%
86%
80%
Lens surfacing quality
Lens finishing quality
Lens coating quality
Product turnaround time
Quality of drill mounting
15%
Not at all important Not very important Somewhat important Very important
u PRICE RANGES FOR ANTI-REFLECTIVE LENSES
u FIVE HIGHLY RATED AREAS OF LAB PERFORMANCE
4%
4%
Poor
43%
44%
3% 8%
8%
8%
37%
43%
41%
$50-$90
Good
$30-$50
*Where percentage is omitted, the value is less than 2%
55%
60%
27%
32%
31%
$90+
Fair
Excellent
62%
53%
53%
51%
50%
50%
12%
13%
9%
Tech support/ customer service
Product availability
Online ordering
Product delivery
Providing product info/ specifications
2013
2014
2015
98 • September 2015 20/20
Averages charted
WHOLESALE LAB WATCH SURVEY 2015
*Where percentage is omitted, the value is less than 1%
In the age of digital lenses, labs have become both manufacturers and distributors, and many offer their own private label lens brands that compete effectively with brand name offerings. This is helping both labs and their customers—independent eyecare professionals—differentiate themselves and create new revenue streams. In doing so, it has strengthened the partnership between wholesale laboratories and independent ECPs, which has always been fundamental for both. Our annual 20/20’s Wholesale Lab Watch Survey takes a deeper look into the lab-ECP relationship. The following sample of the survey data reveals much about the labs’ products and services that ECPs find most valuable. In particular, the data provides a window on how some of the latest lens technologies are taking hold in the market. To get the complete results of the 2015 Wholesale Lab Watch Survey, contact Jobson Research at www.jobsonresearch.com. —Andrew Karp
INTRODUCING
BEAM NEW MEASUREMENT TECHNOLOGY FROM OTTO
™
®
Visit VSP Optics Group booth 22087 at Vision Expo West to see how otto enhances the way you take measurements, and more.
seeotto.com | 855.999.otto
*Certain terms and conditions apply. iPad not included. ©2015 Vision Service Plan. All rights reserved. One Touch to Optical is a registered trademark and otto is a trademark of Vision Service Plan. All other brands or marks are property of their respective owners Patent No. 8,899,482. JOB#21891DR 07/15
Special Report Continued from page 98
u PRICE RANGES FOR PROGRESSIVE LENSES
u METHODS USED TO ORDER PRODUCTS Ranked 5 = Most used, Ranked 1 = Least used
$250+
46%
43%
Rank 5
49%
$200-$250
40%
Rank 2
29%
30%
27%
18% 8%
18% 8%
16% 8%
2013
2014
2015
23%
22%
Online is the method used most to order products followed closely by Telephone. *Where percentage is omitted, the value is less than 4%
14% 10% 8% 11%
28% 14%
76% or more
51-75%
51-75%
26%
17%
Less than 25%
Less than 25%
35%
39%
Telephone
Fax
Messenger/ courier
4.00
3.49
2.80
2.51
2.19
u PERCENTAGE OF EDGED JOBS DONE IN-HOUSE
26% 62% 19%
25%
30%
12%
21%
25-50%
29%
26%
9% 9% 13%
Online
u Patient satisfaction with compensated (default) or fully customized SINGLE VISION lenses
31%
12% 15%
35%
Rank 1
u Patient satisfaction with compensated (default) or fully customized PROGRESSIVE lenses
25-50%
16% 24%
Average Ranking
76% or more
15%
Rank 3
$150-$200 Under $150
58%
Rank 4
59%
51%
22%
28%
17%
20%
21%
36%
32%
2014
2015
2014
2015
2013
2014
2015
Asked only of respondents who edge lenses in-house. Averages charted.
u Forty-three percent of respondents expect to do more business with wholesale labs in the coming year. u Online is the method used most to order products followed closely by telephone. u The factors that were rated “very important” in selecting a wholesale lab are based on the quality of services more so than the characteristics of the labs themselves (i.e., ownership). The factors
finishing quality (92 percent) and lens coating quality (88 percent), followed by product turnaround time (86 percent). u The majority of locations purchase surfaced lenses (92 percent) and safety glasses (76 percent) from their primary lab. u The services provided most often by the respondent’s primary lab were lens product information
in selecting a lab considered very important by
(99 percent), technical support (99 percent) and
most are lens surfacing quality (92 percent), lens
online ordering (95 percent).
100 • September 2015 20/20
Continued on page 102
u The most important concern when dealing with a wholesale optical laboratory: •Turnaround time (19 percent) •Price (15 percent) •Customer service (11 percent) •Accuracy (2 percent) •Warranty Policies (2 percent) •Communication (1 percent) •Knowledgeable staff (1 percent) •Ease of doing business (1 percent)
WHOLESALE LAB WATCH SURVEY 2015
TOPLINE ANALYSIS u
ON MODEL: S337 TOR
NOUVEAUEYEWEAR.COM
Online Ordering, Custom Catalogs, Exclusive Deals 15VH-801B
Special Report Continued from page 100
u PROJECTED BUSINESS WITH WHOLESALE LABS IN COMING YEAR
METHODOLOGY u JOBS EDGED IN-HOUSE VS. OUTSOURCED TO LAB
43%
50%
52%
5%
5%
5%
18%
13%
17%
53%
60%
57%
In the coming year I expect to do... Same amount of business with wholesale labs
Don’t know
Less business with wholesale labs
Sending more to labs
More business with wholesale labs
46%
43%
29%
27%
26%
2013
2014
2015
2013
2014
2015
Lab shortened the turnaround time for edging
Lab offered better prices for edging
Other
47%
43%
25%
21%
21%
20%
14% Lab improved the quality of its edging
21%
2015
23%
2014
30%
24%
2013
49%
u REASONS FOR OUTSOURCING MORE EDGED JOBS
METHODOLOGY 20/20 ’s Wholesale Lab Watch Survey 2015 was conducted during June 2015 by Jobson Optical Research’s in-house research staff. The sample of 278 respondents was derived from the proprietary Jobson Optical Research Database. The 2015 survey was conducted online, and only eyecare professionals at independent locations (one, two or three affiliated practices) who use a wholesale lab for processing lenses or providing other eyewear products and services were qualified to complete the survey. Respondents to the survey were entered in a sweepstakes to win a $200 Amazon.com gift card. Three years of data is shown for trending purposes. The 2013 survey was conducted online in July 2013. 152 respondents at optical retail locations completed the survey and were offered a chance to win a $200 American Express gift card as an incentive. The 2014 survey was conducted online in July 2014. 142 respondents at optical retail locations completed the survey and were offered a chance to win a $200 American Express gift card as an incentive. —Jennifer Waller, Senior Research Analyst
2015
WHOLESALE LAB WATCH SURVEY 2015
More in-house
51%
ENVISION A WORLD WHERE EVERYONE DIAGNOSED WITH CANCER IS A SURVIVOR. Stand Up To Cancer is a program of the Entertainment Industry Foundation (EIF), a 501(c)(3) charitable organization. Stand Up To Cancer and Stand Up To Cancer brand marks are registered trademarks of EIF.
Show your support for Stand Up To Cancer when you wear SU2C Eyewear. For more information please call 800.393.0078
C E L E B R AT I N G
YEARS After 100 years in the optical industry, we remain dedicated to enriching the lives of our customers, our employees and the communities that we serve through better vision. With our common commitment to service, innovation and a focus on the success of our customers, we will continue to help the eye care industry grow and your business prosper. Thank you for your partnership. Here’s to the next 100!
PLEASE VISIT US AT VISION EXPO WEST — BOOTH #MS6033
8,600 JOBS
DAI LY PRODUCED ACROSS THE NETWORK
33 12 20 1
BILLION
DOLLARS
THOUSAND CUSTOMIZED EXAMINATION LANES INSTALLED
MILLION
UNIQUE PRESCRIPTION CONTACT LENSES MANUFACTURED
EYEWEAR COLLECTIONS
EXCLUSIVELY FOR THE EYECARE PROFESSIONAL
OF PURCHASES AND $125 MILLION IN DISCOUNTS
25
MILLION
EYEGLASS WEARERS WHO BENEFIT FROM OUR SCRATCH RESISTANT COATINGS EACH YEAR
RIGHT NOW WH AT’S
SEPTEMBER NEW PRODUCTS
IRIDESCENT I R R EV E R E NC E Time to switch out those plain Jane sun lenses for something a little more playful and mischievous. Reflective shades—that radiate in highlighter yellow or neon blue—it’s just the right amount of debauchery to maintain summer’s glow straight through to fall. —Patrisha Holly Zabrycki y
1
2
6
(
NO REGRETS Why not wear a sun lens with a hologram-like effect?
)
4
(
INTO THE BLUE Wear neon blue. It’s the best way to keep those beach day memories nearby.
3
)
1. EXPLORER, unisex frame that features windshields and an extended frame-top to reduce wind flow and peripheral sunlight, Salt x Aether Collaboration from Salt. Optics 2. JIMMY CHOO CINDY, sunglass features a butterfly silhouette that takes inspiration from the woven details of Jimmy Choo’s iconic sandals, from Sàfilo 3. COMBUSTION, lightweight solid gold frame with laser-cut temples and a top bar from Sama 4. EAGLE BF732, rounded titanium and beta titanium frame with blue mirrored lenses, made in Italy, from Blackfin 5. CLARE V. x VUARNET limited edition sunglass, nylon frame accented by iridescent emerald mirrored lenses, from Clare Vivier and Vuarnet 6. EMMA, limited edition sunglass to mark the 68th Festival del Film Locarno, gold mirrored lenses discreetly mirror the Pardo in Locarno, the symbol of the film festival, from Götti Switzerland
NEW PRODUCT PRICE GUIDE
5
$
$$
$$$
$$$$
$$$$$
I NE XPE NS I V E
MOD ERATE
MOD ERATELY EX P ENSIVE
EX P ENSIVE
VERY EXPEN SIVE
September 2015 20/20 • 105
WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
ALTAIR EYEWEAR: Cole Haan Optical C R E AT I V E C O U R A G E
A
ltair Eyewear debuts the Cole Haan optical collection, consisting of 20 styles, 10 for women and 10 for men. An iconic American brand with roots in Chicago dating back to 1928, Cole Haan brings its authentic perspective to the design of its eyewear collection. Known for well-made footwear, designed to be versatile, fashionable as well as ergonomically comfortable, the brand translates this design lineage straight through to its frames. Design elements include weave patterns and leather textures combined in dynamic ways via bold colorblocking techniques and classic logo details—culminating in a collection that is both fresh and familiar. While frame designs hew closely to the brand’s respect for tradition, there are infusions of playful colorways and modern PHILOSOPHY: “Cole Haan is an iconic American brand with a renowned heritage and classic design that is seamlessly executed through each of their product categories,” says Steve Wright, president of Altair Eyewear. “Their skillful craftsmanship and eye for high quality will easily translate to eyewear that the Cole Haan consumer will appreciate.”
details including metallic diamond-shaped logo plaques that punctuate the temples of two-tone handmade acetate pieces, as well as milled metal frames that are discreetly embellished with the brand’s signature monogram logo. Quality, innovation and craftsmanship are the hallmarks of the Cole Haan brand. “The founders of this company were extraordinary people, and it is our honor to be stewards of the company and brand they fought to build,” says Jack Boys, Cole Haan CEO. “Their names go on everything we do. That’s a massive responsibility and a significant opportunity.” This collection achieves its style status with frames that are just as comfortable and practical as they are enduringly stylish. —Patrisha Holly Zabrycki MARKETING: Merchandising materials include branded brochures,
countercards, posters, cases, window clings, displays and mirrors. PRICE POINT: $$$ CONTACT: For additional information,
contact Altair Eyewear, (800) 505-5557; website: www.altaireyewear.com
COLE HAAN 4008
COLE HAAN 4006
IN
COLE HAAN 5007
106 • September 2015 20/20
SIGHT
What began as a visionary partnership in 1928 between Trafton Cole and Eddie Haan has flourished into a dynamic, forward-thinking global fashion brand. Accelerated by their prophetic use of sports technology in stylish footwear and expansion into premium lifestyle categories including handbags and apparel, Cole Haan has established itself as a harbinger of footwear trends, while maintaining a deep commitment to artisan quality and detail.
WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
MODO: Paper-Thin Sun Collection UNDER THE SUN
F
ollowing the success of Modo’s Paper Thin ophthalmic collection, the Soho-based company presents its Paper Thin Sun collection, consisting of two women’s and two unisex styles. The sun collection embodies the brand’s vision of minimalistic and flexible eyewear. The sunglass lenses feature superior performance high chromatic definition technology (HCD) and are polycarbonate, polarized, anti-reflective and anti-smudge. With a gentle upsweep in semi-rimless and full-rim styles, the frames retain their signature lightness, flexibility and eye-catching colors with super-thin grilamid polymer rings. The 660 style includes a striking orange color and style 662 features a blue tortoise with a slight undertone of gray. —Patrisha Holly Zabrycki PHILOSOPHY: “Modo sets itself apart in the marketplace with the perfect blend of innovation and style,” says Alessandro Lanaro, Modo’s CEO. “The Paper-Thin suns are the right product at the right time, fitting perfectly in the transition between plastic and metal, retro and modern.”
IN
PAPER-THIN SUN 662
SIGHT
Modo was born in 1990 in Soho, New York City, under the entrepreneurial spirit of its founder, Alessandro Lanaro. Modo has evolved into a company that designs, manufactures and distributes a successful portfolio of house brands, designer brands and contemporary lifestyle brands—all under the common denominator of design and innovation.
PAPER-THIN SUN 659
MARKETING: Merchandising materials include a three- and one-place frame display and logo plaque. Frames come with a cleaning cloth in a fold-over case with a blue exterior and blue velvet interior. PRICE POINT: $$$$ CONTACT: For additional information, contact
Modo, (800) 223-7610; website: www.modo.com PAPER-THIN SUN 661
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WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
MARCHON EYEWEAR: Nine West Petites PRETTY AND PETITE
M
archon Eyewear introduces new petite-fit styles to its Nine West Eyewear collection. Featuring four new optical styles, the collection provides on-trend designs and silhouettes for women with petite faces looking for a smaller-sized frame. Each frame conveys the same brand DNA as the entire Nine West Eyewear collection with sleek and sophisticated shapes and a subtle color palette. The collection incorporates combinations of metals and acetates, as well as complementary temple designs inspired by the brand’s accessory collections. —Victoria Garcia
PHILOSOPHY: “As a direct result of the feedback provided by our doctors and their respective patients, we are extremely excited to expand our Nine West offering to now include ‘petite’ sizing,” says Mark Ginsberg, senior vice president of global marketing at Marchon Eyewear. “The Nine West consumer is fiercely loyal to the brand and offering this additional size option will allow our fan base to increase exponentially. While one size does not fit all, in shoes and in eyewear, offering an expanded size range will increase our market share and provide alternative choices to our customers.” MARKETING: Merchandising materials include logo
countercards and a six-place in-case petite fit display. PRICE POINT: $$ to $$$ CONTACT: For additional information,
contact Marchon Eyewear, (800) 645-1300; website: www.marchon.com
IN
NINE WEST 5088
NINE WEST 5092 NINE WEST 1057 NINE WEST 1055
108 • September 2015 20/20
SIGHT
Nine West was founded in New York City in 1978. Originally a footwear brand, it has now expanded to other accessories including handbags, jewelry, eyewear, outwear, scarves and small leather goods.
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WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
OGI EYEWEAR: Bon Vivant A LA FRANCAISE
I
nspired by the couture style, iconic artwork and grand architectural masterpieces of France, Ogi Eyewear introduces Bon Vivant. The collection features unique yet wearable designs in both optical and sun styles. With a strong color palette and wide range of shapes, the collection is designed for the creative soul who has the free spirit of an artist. Bon Vivant is a French expression meaning “one who lives well.” Each frame is elegantly and delicately designed to capture the essence of France. The finest materials are picked from locations all around the world, and each piece is seen as its own work of art. Fashion enthusiasts can enjoy shapes such as CatEye, round and square with decorative and ornate details. —Victoria Garcia
IN
BON VIVANT Celine
BON VIVANT Charline
SIGHT
Every design begins with a hand-drawn pencil sketch. Each frame is meticulously handmade for ultimate quality and craftsmanship, and is then hand-polished to ensure a luxurious finish.
PHILOSOPHY: “Bon Vivant is a captivating collection of high-fashion eyewear designed for self-expression,” says Katy Verbrugge, marketing at Ogi Eyewear. “The name Bon Vivant is a French phrase meaning ‘one who lives well’ which encompasses the European-inspired designs, as well as the highly-detailed and luxurious feel of the frames.” MARKETING: Merchandising
materials include a hanging banner, pillow-top frame display, countercards with easel back and a golden framed campaign image. PRICE POINT: $$$$ to $$$$$ CONTACT: For additional information, contact Ogi Eyewear, (888) 560-1060; website: www.ogieywear.com BON VIVANT Daphne
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WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
L’AMY AMERICA: Kenzo Men’s Collection P O W E R T O T H E PAT T E R N
L
’Amy America introduces the launch of Kenzo Eyewear in the U.S. The men’s collection consists of nine styles designed for 25- to 50-year-olds who love bold styling and adventure. All frames are made in France and feature exclusive Kenzo patterns, an energetic mix of colors and materials. The brand’s trademark of spontaneity and fun is perfectly captured and illuminated by —Patrisha Holly Zabrycki this collection with its fresh attitude and respect for its innovative heritage.
PHILOSOPHY: “The Kenzo eyewear collection brings together Parisian influences with Japanese culture and melds fun prints and textures with the resulting collection ideal for the male customer seeking a unique, contemporary, exclusive design,” says Cheryl Canning, marketing manager.
KENZO 4171
MARKETING: Merchandising materials
include countercards, one- and threeplace displays, as well as banners. PRICE POINT: $$$$ CONTACT: For additional information,
contact L’Amy America, (800) 243-6350; website: www.lamyamerica.com
IN
KENZO 4164
SIGHT
Founded in 1970 as Jungle Jap, a boutique in Paris at Galerie Vivienne where the founder Kenzo Takada sold his handmade women’s collection, Kenzo debuted its first men’s ready-to-wear collection in 1983, and its kids and home collections in 1987, followed by fragrances in 1988. In July 2011, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, founders of the Opening Ceremony fashion retail stores and private label collection were appointed creative directors of Kenzo. Using the brand’s DNA, the duo has given Kenzo their take on the revolutionary spirit with which the brand was founded.
KENZO 4167
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WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
VONZIPPER: Optical Collection SUPPORTING YOUR WILD LIFE
F
ounded in 2000 by four friends in San Clemente, Calif., VonZipper introduces its optical collection. The Southern California-based brand integrates sport and fashion with sophistication with its eyewear, goggles, accessories and soft goods. Featuring 21 styles, the optical collection bridges the gap between geek chic and vintage Americana. The brand embraces all walks of life from highfashion hipsters to wave-riding renegades. Taking inspiration from its Freethinker’s Conspiracy Guild (FCG) collection, frames are crafted with handmade Italian acetates that feature subtle double-bar branding. Colors range from classic black and tortoises to young, vibrant colors. —Victoria Garcia
PHILOSOPHY: “In the ongoing fight for the right of sight and all things visually pleasing, VonZipper is proud to unveil its new collection of optical frames,” says VonZipper founder and president Greg Tomlinson. “Our mission is to design, develop and deliver premium eyewear to the alternative mindset. Everything we do is a reflection of relationships—from employees, team riders to our retailers and their customers. We bring smiles to faces and touch people with positive declarations of rebellion.” MARKETING:
VONZIPPER Observation Bubble
Merchandising materials include in-case marketing imagery, metal logo bend-back product risers, product risers, custom window displays and mirrored stands. PRICE POINT: $$ to $$$
VONZIPPER Forbidden Fruit
CONTACT: For additional
information, contact VonZipper, (949) 428-4708; website: www.vonzipper.com
VONZIPPER Learn to Forget
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IN
SIGHT
In many developing nations, the cost of eyeglasses can be equivalent to a year’s salary. For this reason, VonZipper has partnered with Charity for Clarity and will donate a pair of frames for every optical frame sold.
SH-326
scottharriseyewear.com europaeye.com 800.621.4108
SH-312
SH-324
scottharriseyewear.com europaeye.com 800.621.4108
SH-311
VIEW THE COLLECTION AT VEW BOOTH 14064 SH-358
WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
EYEWEAR DESIGNS: Tony Hawk Eyewear Collection S O U L O F S K AT E
E
yewear Designs introduces the launch of Tony Hawk Eyewear with the release of eight styles in three colorways and a release of five additional styles in October. Founded in California, the Hawk brand is a globally recognized “skate culture” lifestyle brand that combines style and performance, built for real life. “I’m impressed with the commitment from the team at Eyewear Designs to develop the Tony Hawk Eyewear Collection to our values and aesthetic vision of the collection,” says Tony Hawk. “Their use of innovative styling, attention to detail and creative use of materials make the collection everything we hoped it could be.” —Patrisha Holly Zabrycki
PHILOSOPHY: “We are excited to partner with Tony Hawk and his team to launch the Tony Hawk Eyewear Collection,” says Andrea Gluck, co-president of Eyewear Designs. “We identify with the maxims/values of the brand and feel the collection captures the spirit and essence of the brand and lifestyle of Tony Hawk. His goal is to inspire the next generation of innovators. We believe our partnership with them on the Tony Hawk Eyewear Collection exemplifies this mission. We have created an incredible eyewear collection that reinforces the mission statement of Tony Hawk and presents a truly unique eyewear collection to the market.” MARKETING: Merchandising materials include a Tony Hawk optical
case, a name sign and Tony Hawk one-place display. PRICE POINT: $$$ CONTACT: For additional information, contact Eyewear Designs, (800) 645-6596; website: www.eyeweardesigns.com
TONY HAWK 505
TONY HAWK 504
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TONY HAWK 506
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SIGHT
Tony Hawk began skateboarding at age 9. By the age of 12, he was winning amateur contests. At 14, he turned professional, and by the time he turned 16 years of age he was widely regarded as the best competitive skateboarder in the world. By age 25, he had competed in 103 pro contests, winning 73 of them and placing second in 19. Hawk retired from competition in 1999, though he continues to perform skate demos and exhibitions around the world.
WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
CLEARVISION OPTICAL: Aspire Eyewear D I G I TA L LY D E L I G H T F U L
C
learVision Optical introduces Aspire Eyewear, a unisex optical collection combining the latest technology and advanced materials. Featuring six women’s styles (featured in the February issue) and six men’s styles (previewed here), all styles are available in three colors and feature five architecturally-inspired temple designs in both TR-90 and stainless steel. Each frame offers a barely-there feel and a fit that is 22 percent lighter than the typical titanium frame. The entire collection was designed using 3D technology prior to prototype creation, which significantly reduces sample development from 20 weeks to about 20 minutes. Frames are created with SDN-4, a proprietary specially-designed nylon material. SDN-4 is hypoallergenic, heat resistant, and extremely strong and offers shape memory. Using this customized SDN-4 sheet material, frames are not injected but created with Computer Numerical Control (CNC) machinery that produces unique shapes and various color possibilities. —Victoria Garcia
PHILOSOPHY: “Aspire Eyewear represents a transition and transformation in eyewear,” says Peter Friedfeld, Aspire architect and ClearVision executive vice president. “After years of research, design and development, Aspire blends new technology with new materials expanding the limits of eyewear design. Aspire was designed for people who like to express themselves through their eyewear, even if it’s a simple and pure expression of great design. It’s truly wearable technology—the lightest and most expressive eyewear available.” MARKETING: Merchandising materials include a double-sided
banner, double-sided countercards, custom design brand identification, one-place display, 12-place standing display and pedestals. PRICE POINT: $$$ CONTACT: For additional information, contact ClearVision
Optical, (800) 645-3733; website: www.aspireeyewear.com
ASPIRE Special
IN
SIGHT
ASPIRE Independent
Aspire frames are almost 50 percent lighter than regular plastic frames and almost 50 percent thinner than typical acetate frames. They also feature a proprietary adjustable nosepad system and screwless hinges to aid the barely-there feel of each frame.
ASPIRE Free
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WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
FGX INTERNATIONAL: Corinne McCormack Sunwear LADIES FIRST
F
GX International introduces the Corinne McCormack sun collection. Designed for women 35 and older, the collection incorporates several iconic elements from the brand’s ophthalmic collection including McCormack’s leopard pattern zyl and jewelry-inspired “X.” All frames are Rx-friendly and allow women to make a statement about their personality with fashionable shapes and classic colorations. The collection also includes six progressive-friendly styles that include rich zyl and metal and zyl combinations with CR-39 lenses. —Victoria Garcia
IN
SIGHT
A former fashion and jewelry executive, Corinne McCormack started her own company over 20 years ago. Under the Corinne McCormack Inc. (CMI) brand name, products are sold at specialty and department stores including Bloomingdale’s, LensCrafters and Nordstrom.
CORINNE MCCORMACK Long Beach
CORINNE MCCORMACK Brighton Beach
PHILOSOPHY: “The launch of the Corinne Sun Rx collection is a logical extension of the Corinne McCormack brand,” says Kristin Fontaine, brand manager at FGX International. “The collection is inspired by Corinne’s love for vintage styling, with a fresh approach to color and shape. The extension of signature zyls and design elements from the optical styles to the sun styles create a fully integrated collection that we’re thrilled to introduce.” MARKETING: Merchandising materials include countercards, logo blocks and product risers. PRICE POINT: $$ CONTACT: For additional information,
contact FGX International, (800) 480-4846.
CORINNE MCCORMACK Montauk
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WHAT’S NEW NEW LAUNCHES
SAMA EYEWEAR: deCODE: Los Angeles L O V E LY L U X U RY
P
aying tribute to the city of Los Angeles, Sama Eyewear introduces its deCODE: Los Angeles collection. The company found its inspiration from the overlooked aspects of Los Angeles and its community, environment, diversity and commitment to social change. “When people think of LA, they think of Hollywood and glamour,” says Sheila Vance, founder and chief designer of Sama Eyewear. “But there is a whole other side of the city, and I used that as my inspiration for the new collection. In addition to all its glittering connotations, LA has always created movement with authenticity, setting its own path for key causes in health and wellness, philanthropy, education, and arts and culture.” The collection features frames with motifs of classic LA, streamlined silhouettes, multidimensional textures and neutral colors that all coincide with
the city’s rich history. Each frame is constructed from 5-mm flat pure titanium sheets and feature 100 percent hypoallergenic materials. Sama produced five different molds, using each to add a subtle layer of shaping toward each frame. The block construction is a laser-cutting technique that brings a level of lightness and strength to each frame. All frame parts are handmade in Japan and feature block Japanese acetate, as well as hand-applied enamel treatments for a jewelry-like finish. Each frame is tagged with names such as #No H8, #No War, #No Bullying and #No Limitation. Each hashtag embodies an ideology of preservation, conservation and respect for humanity, a core idea of Vance’s personal philosophy. —Victoria Garcia IN SIGHT Sama has introduced a matte lens collection featuring new technology offering shimmery and opalescent mirrored lenses. The patented process incorporates the crushing of stones from various opals to get the pearlized but flat finish into a micro powder form. The powder is then applied into a vapor spray and a special technique is used to apply it to the lens surface.
PHILOSOPHY: “All of our materials
are always premium, and we really take our time and make efforts to find the best, most innovative and newest materials and push the envelope and move the product and industry forward, combining both fashion and function,” says Ross Vance, president, engineering and product development at Sama Eyewear. “For our technology elements in deCODE, there were a variety of complex components that we employed in this product that took us a long time to perfect, sample and contribute to its very individual look and feel. deCODE: Los Angeles is very specific with high-tech elements that give a very directional look, feel and function to the frames that are categorically different than our other collections.”
DECODE: LOS ANGELES #No Limitation
DECODE: LOS ANGELES #No T&D
MARKETING: Displays are available. PRICE POINT: $$$$$ CONTACT: For additional information,
contact Sama Eyewear, (877) 788-7262; website: www.samaeyewear.net
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DECODE: LOS ANGELES #No H8
Introducing The Latest Technology in UV and HEV Blue Light Protection
The Clearer Choice TheraBlue is unlike other blue light protection products in today’s marketplace in several ways. R TheraBlue is a clearer lens unlike other products. R The UV Ray and HEV Blue Light Protection comes from the lens material itself. R TheraBlue is not a coating like some other products on the market and does not have a purple or blue reflective color that some may object to. R TheraBlue does not have a yellow, orange, or peach color pigment like some other products on the market that some may object to. R TheraBlue is available in three different materials: 1.67, 1.60 and an impact resistant 1.56 that has passed the ANSI-Z87.1 High Velocity Impact Test. R TheraBlue is compatible with a wide variety of Anti-Reflective Coatings and can be ordered with or without AR. R TheraBlue is available in Single Vision, Progressive lenses, Digital Round 22, Digital Round 25, and Digital Round 28 bifocals and computer lenses in all three materials. R TheraBlue is also available in finished stock single vision lenses in 1.67 aspheric with AR coating and 1.56 impact resistant lens with AR coating. Both are available in a greater Rx range than other blue light solution products on the market.
800-233-9637
www.LuzerneOptical.com TheraBlue is a registered trademark of Luzerne Optical Laboratories, Ltd. All rights reserved.
WHAT’S NEXT NEW LINES
MARCHON: MarchoNYC Little Italy T H E N E A P O L I TA N L I F E S T Y L E
Marchon Eyewear expands its MarchoNYC line with the release of its capsule collection, Little Italy, inspired by the iconic Mulberry Street and full of rich Italian culture, located in the heart of New York City. This new series is entirely made in Italy and features the finest materials and superior designs. The collection consists of five lightweight plastic frames in modern shapes, colorblocking palettes in crystal, tortoise and opaque hues, as well as spring hinges for optimal durability. This capsule collection is ideal for women seeking fashionforward, high-quality eyewear that is steeped in Italian heritage. —PHZ
MARCHONYC Bretton
PHILOSOPHY: “The new MarchoNYC ‘Little Italy’
MARKETING: The Little Italy capsule
collection is ideal for the modern woman who loves fashion and looks for high-quality products,” says Mark Ginsberg, senior vice president, global marketing, Marchon Eyewear. “Made in Italy, the collection offers current and on-trend styling for the fashion-savvy female consumer.”
collection will be the featured styles for MarchoNYC and showcased in the Fall/Winter countercard set. PRICE POINT: $$ CONTACT: For additional information, contact Marchon Eyewear, (800) 645-1300; website: www.marchon.com
MARCHONYC Roma
WHAT’S NEXT NEW LINES
KIRK & KIRK: Kaleidoscope B E A U T Y T H AT I N S P I R E S
Kirk & Kirk presents its Kaleidoscope optical collection consisting of eight styles in nine vibrant colorways. Inspired by Kalos, Greek god of beauty, Jason and Karen Kirk propose a unique color palette that is at once in tune with seasonal fashion trends but is markedly different from the crowd. Color options include aqua, coral, cranberry, as well as combination colorways such as ocean flame, dusk and earth. Shape design remain simple and accessible with a nod in the direction of classic British styling. Hand-making frames in France from start to finish, in signature Italian acrylic material makes the —PHZ Kirk & Kirk collection distinctive. PHILOSOPHY: “We have spent much of this year listening to opticians assess what would
improve their business,” says Jason Kirk. “The majority want a collection that makes their store unique and allows them to stand out from their competitors but also a collection that will sell.” PRICE POINT: $$$$ CONTACT: For additional information, contact Kirk & Kirk, (888) 228-0184; website: kirkandkirk.com
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KALEIDOSCOPE Hana
WHAT’S NEXT NEW LINES
BASE CURVE/REM: John Varvatos
JOHN VARVATOS V365
ROCK ’N’ ROLL ELEGANCE
JOHN VARVATOS V151
Base Curve/A Luxury Division of Rem Eyewear extends its John Varvatos optical collection with new styles that feature a modern framework, old-world tailoring and sophisticated silhouettes, creating the ultimate gentleman’s essentials. For the man who values understated opulence, V151 is a perfect day-to-night frame, created with titanium and showcasing a pressed pattern with epoxy-fill along the temples and a plastic sleeve at temple tips. The V365 effortlessly integrates the designer’s passion for fashion and roots in rock ’n’ roll. Revealing a cultured round shape and pressed detail with epoxy-fill on the temples, this frame exudes rock star attitude. These new styles continue to reflect the quality and attentionto-detail inherent in old-world tailoring, while creating luxurious, comfortable eyewear for a modern lifestyle. —PHZ
PHILOSOPHY: “With the four John Varvatos collections—Bowery, Artisan, Classic and Soho— our goal is always to expand and create new styles that reflect their respective personalities,” says Rem. “The V151 is a full titanium frame and indicative of the craftsmanship from the Artisan collection, and the V365 experiments with textured block acetate, representing the sophistication and timelessness from the Classic collection.” MARKETING: Merchandising materials include
a four-panel countercard, one-place and six-place display, posters, as well as a mirror display. PRICE POINT: $$$$ CONTACT: For additional information, contact Rem Eyewear, 800-423-3023; website: www.remeyewear.com
WHAT’S NEXT NEW LINES
TURA: Geoffrey Beene XL B L E N D I N G L U X U RY W I T H C O M F O R T
Tura presents the Geoffrey Beene XL collection, featuring four men’s ophthalmic models available at an affordable price point with designs that will appeal to the male customer looking for classic and modern styles in fashionable colors, with a larger head fit. Geoffrey Beene XL is designed for larger men, featuring larger eye sizes, wider bridges, longer temples and a wider head fit resulting in a more comfortable fit. The styling direction ranges from classic styles to more contemporary designs, encompassing a modern color palette by using gradient acetate and two-toned metal plating. Staying true to the Geoffrey Beene DNA, these XL men’s styles effortlessly blend form and function with quality. —PHZ PHILOSOPHY: “There’s a huge need in the market for men’s eyewear with larger sizes ranging from 57-60 that are also stylish,” says Tura product manager Loyedie Desir. “Through unique designs, we provide a high value, high quality frame at a competitive cost
GEOFFREY BEENE XL G510
while servicing an often neglected customer.” PRICE POINT: $$ CONTACT: For additional information, contact Tura, (800) 242-8872; website: www.tura.com
GEOFFREY BEENE XL G425
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WHAT’S NEXT NEW LINES
THEMA – A FAMILY FACTORY: iGreen Custom Y O U R F R A M E Y O U R WAY
Thema – A Family Factory introduces iGreen Custom Eyewear, developed with years of research and experience. Featuring 24 models from the 4.0 acetate collection, iGreen Custom allows customers to select the style, color and texture of the frame. There are over 100 different selections to choose from including a variety of colors, a matte or shiny finish, as well as the option to add nosepads. Customization is done on the company’s website where customers select a frame and generate a unique iGreen Custom code that can be presented at the nearest authorized iGreen store. The frame will then be ordered directly from the company’s factory in Italy, where it will be handmade and shipped in approximately four weeks. —VG PHILOSOPHY: “I’ve dedicated my life not to a job, but to a
passion,” says Giorgio Valmassoi, president of Thema – A Family Factory. “The outcome of what is done with passion, be it a product or a service, becomes something unique and original because that is transmitted in what we do and how we do it.” MARKETING: Merchandising materials include a double-
IGREEN CUSTOM V04.02
IGREEN CUSTOM V045
sided iGreen custom display featuring 12 frames, 50 sample colors and d 14 temples on each side. PRICE POINT: $$$ CONTACT: For additional tional information, contact Thema – A Family Factory, actory, (786) 803-8881; website: www.igreeneyewear.com eneyewear.com
WHAT’S NEXT NEW LINES
ARNETTE: Fall 2015 Collection AT T E N T I O N T O D E S I G N A N D D E TA I L
Arnette Eyewear extends its collection with the release of new styles for fall featuring a selection of versatile silhouettes instilled with modern design elements. New styles added to the optical collection include the Improv, Drum Machine and Time Stretch. With a round shape and simple stem design, the Improv is a classic. The Drum Machine is a balance between aggressive and tranquil—slightly rectangular and V-shaped featuring a full acetate frame, slim temples and signature D.O.T. stems. Rounding out the optical range is the Time Stretch, preppy with upward curves and contours that balance its round shape. —PHZ PHILOSOPHY: “We are very excited to release the new Fall 2015
Collection to market,” says Joe Freitag, global brand director. “We’re launching the line by showcasing the D-Street frame alongside long-time surf ambassador Chippa Wilson, as well as introduce the world to a talented and upcoming musician, Jordan Buckelew, alongside the Supplier sunglass, and Improv and Time Stretch Rx glasses. With support from these activations for our new designs, the Fall 2015 Collection truly captures the
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creativity ity and vision that is the driving force behind d the Arnette brand and its fans.” PRICE POINT: $$$ CONTACT: For additional information, contact Arnette Eyewear, (888) 708-8856; website: www.arnette.com
DRUM MACHINE
IMPROV
NEW PRODUCTS
F L I RTY F UN
It only takes a small, understated detail to make a big statement. Eyewear designers have been turning to intricate and noteworthy details to catch the attention of consumers. From barely-there jewels, small pops of color and an influx of innovative technology, details are at the forefront of eyewear. The bigger the better does not apply here. —VG 2 0/20 I N S I G H T :
MARCOLIN USA: Emilio Pucci 5012 With a focus on Emilio Pucci’s quintessential brand elements such as peonia or butterfly prints, this subtle CatEye brilliantly mixes an acetate design with metal temples. Sizes: 55/14 (140); 53/16 (140) Price: $$$$ (800) 537-9265/www.marcolin.com
IMAGEWEAR: Wildflower Jancinta
EASTERN STATES EYEWEAR: Exces 3124
Part of the fun and chic Wildflower Eyewear collection, this unique plastic laminate frame offers a multitude of colors for expressive women in search of a flirty eyewear option.
A combination of a monel frame front and acetate temples, this two-toned frame seamlessly features multiple materials and colors along with spring hinges in a modern, stylish shape.
Size: 53/17 (140) Pricing: $$
Size: 52/16 (135) Pricing: $
(800) 414-7656/www.imagewear.com
(800) 645-3710/www.eseyewear.com
THE MCGEE GROUP: Badgley Mischka Veronique Glamour and jewels derive from this exquisite red frame targeted toward women who desire a feminine and romantic frame that exudes a runway feel. Sizes: 53/16 (137); 53/16 (140) Price: $$$$
WESTGROUPE: Fysh 3539 Designed for women in search of a subtle yet classic look, this neutral-colored sparkling acetate frame features small eye-catching metal accents for a touch of delicate details. Size: 53/17 (140) Pricing: $$$ (855) 455-0042/www.westgroupe.com For western states within the U.S., contact Classique Eyewear, (866) 604-7500/www.classique-eyewear.com
124 • September 2015 20/20
(800) 966-2020/www.mcgeegroup.com
NEW PRODUCTS
M ETAL L I C L I B R E T TO
A metal frame—whether accompanied by a magnetic clip or doubled up with acetate accoutrements—is an undeniable staple in the eyewear wardrobe. —PHZ
2 0/20 I N S I G H T :
ASPEX EYEWEAR: Takumi 986 Designed for sophisticated women, featuring lustrous Swarovski crystal embellishment along the temples. A magnetic clip-on with polarized lenses allows for seamless transition from sunlight to indoors. Spring hinges add an ergonomic fit. Size: 53/15 (135) Pricing: $$$$ (800) 277-3979/www.aspexeyewear.com
ZYLOWARE: Stetson 178
KENMARK: Vera Wang Reena
This navigator-shaped frame is a classic full-rim double-bar bridge frame that is progressive-friendly. A wrapping metal endpiece has ribbed detailing for extra design interest. Silicone uni-fit nosepads, spring hinges and zyl temple tips provide the masculine wearer with optimal comfort. Size: 57/16 (145) Pricing: $$
This full-rim metal and zyl combination frame is a distinctly classical style that is updated for the modern women by way of shimmering Swarovski crystals, which adorn the temples of this perfectly polished metallic design.
(800) 765-3700/www.zyloware.com
Size: 52/16 (135) Pricing: $$$$ (800) 627-2898/www.kenmarkoptical.com
CLARITI EYEWEAR: AirMag A6244
REVOLUTION EYEWEAR: Robert Graham Princeton A beautifully-crafted frame styled in tortoise with mahogany temples that are equipped with adjustable temple tips. Flathead screw accents and an engraved saddle bridge add to this frame’s tradition with a twist attitude.
A lightweight metal and acetate combo frame with a classic rectangular front. Comfort-driven spring hinges as well as a magnetic sun clip with polarized lenses make transitioning from inside to outside effortless. Size: 55/16 (140) Pricing: $$ (800) 372-6372/www.claritieyewear.com
Size: 47/23 (140) Pricing: $$$$ (800) 986-0010/www.revolutioneyewear.com
September Se ept p em embe be 22015 20/20 • 125
NEW PRODUCTS
ACTION PACKED
Sleek, stylish and swoon-worthy frames are becoming the norm for sport eyewear. Perfect for athletes and spectators alike, sport eyewear takes the gold with immense high-tech features packed into one multipurpose frame. With anti-fogging systems, polarized lenses, lightweight materials and adjustable nosepads, sport eyewear can be worn under any condition. —VG 2 0/20 I N S I G H T :
MAUI JIM: Mixed Plate Men and women in search of an understated rectangular frame with a keyhole nose bridge padded with rubber for a Hawaiian look on and off the beach. Size: 58/16 (134) Pricing: $$$$ (888) 666-5905/www.mauijim.com
COSTA: Tuna Alley Those in search of a high-tech customized sport frame with an array of features to enhance performance. Part of the Global Fit collection, this frame features a flatter head curve, deeper adjustable nosepads, anti-fogging vents, sturdy integral hinges and a wrap shape. Size: Large Pricing: $$$ (800) 447-3700/www.costadelmar.com
NOUVEAU EYEWEAR: Realtree 560 A classic aviator shape with polarized and shatter-resistant lenses, this shiny gold sunglass is Rxable and features Realtree camo on the temple tips for a small subtle detail. Size: 58/14 (135) Pricing: $$ (800) 292-4342/www.nouveaueyewear.com
MARCHON EYEWEAR: Dragon Alliance 513S Constructed from TR-90, this lightweight sport frame features a predominantly rich matte palette, small accents of color and a classic metal Dragon nameplate for a signature finish. Size: 55/19 (140) Pricing: $$ (800) 645-1300/www.marchon.com
RUDY PROJECT: Ergomask With a sleek combination of lightweight materials and performance design, any sport enthusiast will excel with this wellventilated and unobstructive frame in an intense array of colors. Size: DBL Temple 129/128, Base Curve: 7 Pricing: $$$$ to $$$$$ (888) 860-7597/www.rudyprojectusa.com
126 • September 2015 20/20
NEW PRODUCTS
PREFERENCE FOR PLASTICITY
Zyl, acetate, plastic, however you u say it— rial—able this substance is the consummate modernist material—able s, layered to be marbled with color, laminated with prints, with bright tints, laser-cut or hand-tooled. —PHZ 2 0/20 I N S I G H T :
SILVER DOLLAR OPTICAL: Café Lunettes 3221 1 Marbleized tortoise-inspired coloration infuses this bold square shape with its fashion-forward independence. Beautifully crafted in acetate for women who demand superior style and quality. Size: 54/16 (140) Pricing: $$ (800) 962-3200/www.silverdollaroptical.com
ALTAIR EYEWEAR: Sunlites 5011 This ultra-feminine style features an uplifting rectangular shape with subtle colorblocking and crystal accents, which make these technology-driven frames both functional and fashionable. Clip kit and custom-fit magnetic clip options are also available.
OGI EYEWEAR: Heritage Collection ll 7155 This new addition to the heritage collection is specifically designed and handcrafted to fit petite faces. Available in vibrant colors with an all-around flattering lens shape, this frame features marbled acetate fronts that are complemented with colored temples to create a harmonious blend of fashion and function. Size: 50/15 (140) Pricing: $$$$ (888) 560-1060/ogieyewear.com
Size: 54/16 (135) Pricing: $$ (800) 505-5557/www.altaireyewear.com
TURA: Ted Baker B728
EASTERN STATES EYEWEAR: Chantal Thomass 14052
Quintessentially British in its style and manner, this frame appears conservative in its shape, yet it is bold in its retro-inspired square construction and edgy in its double rivets along the side of the temple. The plastic is contoured and thicker to create a youthful and daring appeal.
Classic tortoise is born anew in this modern CatEye style for fashion-forward women. With a flirty upsweep, this frame features layered acetate cutting with monel accents and intriguing details along the temples.
Size: 53/18 (140) Pricing: $$$
Size: 52/14 (135) Pricing: $$$
(800) 242-8872/www.tura.com
(800) 645-3710/www.eseyewear.com
September 2015 20/20 • 127
NEW PRODUCTS
1 TRANSITIONS SIGNATURE VII POLYCARBONATE COMPOSITE FLAT TOP 28 BIFOCAL LENSES Manufacturer: Younger Optics Description: Developed jointly by Transitions Optical and Younger Optics, Transitions Signature VII polycarbonate composite flat top 28 lenses are offered exclusively by Younger Optics through their lab customers. Features: Polycarbonate composite lens that incorporates a unique photochromic front surface made of Trivex, delivering Transitions Signature VII performance in a product that is surfaced, polished, edged and dispensed just like a clear polycarbonate lens.
Availability: Gray www.youngeroptics.com/transitions; (800) 366-5367
2 LEX-1200 LENS EDGER AND ICE-1200 BLOCKER Manufacturer: Santinelli International
matched frame-based profile (i.e., Ray-Ban frames).
Description: New edger and blocker incorporate
Lastly, for those seeking to drill in-house, the edger
functions that will enable ECPs to process latest lens and frame designs.
interfaces seamlessly with the optional LexDrill
Features: At the heart of the two units is an advanced
jobs automatically.
3 P.O.G. HD
“side car” unit, which can process complex drilling
high-curve tracer, featuring a unique mechanical
The Ice-1200 blocker incorporates a multicolored
design which includes a variable fulcrum stylus,
touchscreen with new, intuitive graphics for seamless
keeping its axis-angle perpendicular to any frame
operation. The unit also features an advantageous
curve. The new tracer reduces stylus-pressure
Auto Lens Meter (ALM) function with an easy-to-iden-
by 50 percent, thereby eliminating the potential
tify cross-hair target for spot-on accuracy. Santinelli’s
for distortion on even the thinnest, most flexible
Integrated Shape Imager (ISI) facilitates drill data
frames, according to Santinelli.
capture and has been revised to include partial step
Manufacturer:
Precision Optical Group Description:
High definition, free-form lens offering wider viewing areas, superior image sharpness and maximum focus potential. Features: Pristine focus and edge-to-edge clarity meld with added usable periphery, which is balanced to any frame style, regardless
The Lex-1200 edger’s “2.0 software” boasts a
lens measurements of “suspension-lens” style sport
of required prescription. Affordably priced,
faster processing speed than the previous version
frames. The newly redesigned lens stage is highly
and offers multiple custom bevel pre-sets. New to
adjustable accommodating any lens blank size, shape
this model series is a controlled high-curve bevel
or type, all while keeping the front of the lens parallel
function which produces an asymmetrical lens
to the blocking arm. Furthermore, the integrated
bevel profile, permitting the lens to be perfectly
lens clamp gently stabilizes the lens prior to blocking,
Single vision and progressive
fitted into such shaped sport frames. Additional
eliminating any potential lens-shift.
www.poglabs.com;
functions include highly-specialized semi-step bevel,
The blocker’s software has the ability to read QR
which allows insertion of lenses into non-Rxable
codes which contain EMR data from linked diagnostic
eyewear. Operators will appreciate the all-new
equipment, eliminating the need for redundant
custom auto mode, an extremely user-friendly,
job data entry and thereby streamlining the entire
one-step operation delivering a tailored mini-bevel,
blocking operation.
which is ideal for thin metal eyewire with a perfectly
www.santinelli.com; (800) 644-3343
128 • September 2015 20/20
U.S.-made.
Availability:
(800) 497-9239 ext. 4
BASICS
EXPO READY The time is ripe again to search Vision Expo West for new and exciting products that will help change the lives of your patients/ customers. Expo can be an overwhelming and exhilarating time for many who have a full schedule to abide by. However, it is important to take time and do some exploring into new territories. Be sure to take time out of your busy schedule to admire and experience what Vision Expo is all about with these 20/20 Basics.
20/20 BASICS By Victoria Garcia
BE A SOCIAL u BUTTERFLY BU G to know other Expo attendGet ees. Ask them what booths they ee recently discovered and where re they th usually spend most of their time. Discuss what new t products you are looking for and p have them give you suggestions h on o where to find these soughtafter products.
v
THE GOLDEN GALLERIA Take a break from the expanse of the main show floor and specifically wander around the Galleria and the private show suites dedicated to high-end players. A little more lowkey, both feature boutique and highfashion collections from all over the world. Be sure to spend some time getting to know these collections and what they have to offer. TRY ON EVERYTHING w With more than a million frames at your fingertips, Expo is the perfect time to try on as many styles as possible. Get to know the materials, textures and technology of new frames so you know what is becoming popular.
x BE ADVENTUROUS Take a step outside of your comfort zone and visit a few booths you would normally overlook. Look at new brands and companies that might come with
130 • September 2015 20/20
better quality or better priced products your customers will enjoy. Don’t dismiss the idea of new lines to carry in your dispensary; you might just stumble upon the next best thing. GET IN ON OUR y EYEWEAR If you haven’t joined the realm of OUR Eyewear, now is certainly the time. Take a break from designer brands and explore independent collections that offer strong history and expert craftsmanship. Become an OUR Eyewear expert and personally get to know each one of these independent eyewear brands and the stories they convey. BECOME THE EXPERT z SELLER Not sure what you should be searching for at Expo? Flip through 20/20’s September 15 Seller’s Guide for an in-depth look at what styles, trends and eyewear categories are certain to resonate with your customers.
GUIDE
new products in this issue COVER Marchon Eyewear, Nautica 6207S HIGHSTYLE EYESTYLE, pp. 55-64 Altair Eyewear, Cole Haan 4009, p. 57 Kenmark, Zac Posen Tommaso, p. 60 Lafont, Recamier, p. 58 Luxottica, Giorgio Armani 8018, p. 55 Modo, Modo 4082, p. 56 Morel, Lightec 7756L, p. 64 ProDesign Denmark, Fourth Dimension 4720, p. 64 Silhouette, Silhouette 8154, p. 60 Tura, Brendel 922034, p. 62 I’M AN EYEWAY STAR, pp. 66-73 De Rigo Vision, Police S1988, p. 68 Eastern States Eyewear, Cazal 873, p. 70 Götti Switzerland, Tomi, p. 73 Marcolin USA, Roberto Cavalli Miaplacidus 908, p. 66 Oakley, Hold On, p. 68 Ogi Eyewear, Ogi 9216, p. 68 Rem Eyewear, Jonathan Adler Monte Carlo, p. 72 Thema – A Family Factory, Philosopheyes 997, p. 73 Ultra Palm Optical, Cazal 873, p. 70 Zyloware, Randy Jackson Limited Edition X115, p. 70 SWEET (20)16, pp. 74-80 A&A Optical, Seventy one Austin, p. 80 Alain Mikli, Alain Mikli A03051, p. 78 Aspex Eyewear, Greg Norman 254, p. 80 Barton Perreira, Seraphina, p. 74 Bevel Specs, Bevel 2526, p. 77 Classique Eyewear, William Morris London 4700, p. 78 ClearVision Optical, Izod 2009, p. 80 Design Gallery/A Division of Match Eyewear, Vanni 1292, p. 76 Europa International, Scott Harris 430, p. 76 Eyewear Designs, Tony Hawk 506, p. 78 FGX International, Corinne McCormack Forest Hills, p. 77 Kenmark, Vera Wang V371, p. 76 L’Amy America, Nicole Miller Frankfort, p. 77 The McGee Group, Badgley Mischka Bradford, p. 76 Moscot, Petie, p. 76 New York Eye, Ernest Hemingway 4677, p. 76 Norman Childs Eyewear, Bloomfield, p. 77 Ogi Eyewear, Bon Vivant Gigi, p. 74 Prologue Vision, TC Charton Asian Fit Rebecca, p. 78 Robert Marc, Robert Marc 903, p. 74 SALT. Optics, Steve, p. 78 Silver Dollar Optical, Club Level Design 9173, p. 80 Spy Optic, Owen, p. 80 Vari, VR6, p. 78 Villa Eyewear, Blackfin 737 Joliet, p. 78 Vuarnet, Vuarnet VL1315, p. 77
WestGroupe, Kliik Denmark 547, p. 78 WHAT’S RIGHT NOW Iridescent Irreverence, p. 105 Clare Vivier and Vuarnet, Clare V. x Vuarnet Götti Switzerland, Emma Sáfilo, Jimmy Choo Cindy SALT. Optics, Explorer SALT. X Aether Collaboration Sama Eyewear, Combustion Villa Eyewear, Blackfin 732 Eagle WHAT’S NEW, pp. 106-118 Altair Eyewear, Cole Haan Optical ClearVision Optical, Aspire Men’s Collection Eyewear Designs, Tony Hawk Eyewear FGX International, Corinne McCormack Sunwear L’Amy America, Kenzo Men’s Collection Marchon Eyewear, Nine West Petites Modo, Paper-Thin Sun Ogi Eyewear, Bon Vivant Sama Eyewear, deCODE: Los Angeles VonZipper, Optical Collection WHAT’S NEXT, pp. 120-122 Arnette: Fall Collection Base Curve/A Luxury Division of Rem Eyewear, John Varvatos Kirk & Kirk, Kaleidoscope Marchon Eyewear, MarchoNYC Little Italy Thema – A Family Factory, iGreen Custom Tura, Geoffrey Beane XL NEW PRODUCTS, pp. 124-127 Altair Eyewear, Sunlites 5011 Aspex Eyewear, Takumi 986 Clariti Eyewear, AirMag A6244 Costa, Tuna Alley Eastern States Eyewear, Chantal Thomass 14052 Eastern States Eyewear, Exces 3124 Imagewear, Wildflower Jancinta Kenmark, Vera Wang Reena Marchon Eyewear, Dragon Alliance 513S Marcolin USA, Emilio Pucci 5012 Maui Jim, Mixed Plate The McGee Group, Badgley Mischka Veronique Nouveau Eyewear, Realtree 560 Ogi Eyewear, Heritage Collection 7155 Revolution Eyewear, Robert Graham Princeton Rudy Project, Ergomask Silver Dollar Optical, Café Lunettes 3221 Tura, Ted Baker B728 WestGroupe, Fysh 3539 Zyloware, Stetson 178 L&T NEW PRODUCTS, p. 128 Precision Optical Group, P.O.G. HD Santinelli International, Lex-1200 Lens Edger and Ice-1200 Blocker Younger Optics, Transitions Signature VII Polycarbonate Composite Flat Top 28 Bifocal
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Coping With Corridors [1 CE CREDIT] By Barry Santini, ABOM
In the new millennium, as free-form manufacturing overcame the economic and logistic limitations imposed by traditional progressive production, a cornucopia of lens design choices unfolded on the optical market. Through software-based, free-form design, manufacturers could now offer lenses of variable design priorities, where the optician could now specify not only which utility area was most important, but also the length and even slope of the progressive corridor. And the most advanced designs featured a variable corridor, which would individually tailor the progressive to fit the chosen frame. However, this approach can come with a downside, with patients sometimes encountering difficulty adjusting to different reading levels resulting from the design software adjusting corridor length differently between smaller dress and larger-sized sunwear styles. The challenge to be taken up by today’s optician is to recognize how much more involved they need to be in designing lenses that will satisfy the expectations of their customers.
OLD VERSUS NEW CHALLENGES Since the introduction of Varilux, the first progressive addition lens in 1959, eyecare professionals have faced numerous challenges in learning to fit these types of lenses. Clearly, success with progressives has always been about obtaining a type of magical balance between sometimes conflicting elements, including acuity, comfort, utility, perceptual and postural adaptation, in addition to busi-
ness concerns centered on price and perceived value. Until recently, ECPs have lacked the ability to tailor specific or overall aspects of a progressive lens’ design, including its basic design philosophy, i.e., merit weighting of aberrations, surface astigmatism, power errors or corridor length. Consequently, they had resigned themselves to the reality that obtaining patient satisfaction would be limited only to manipulating height, design, add power or specific brand. Progressive lens fitting was seen as a risk-filled and serendipitous endeavor, often accompanied by expensive trial and error lens remakes and loss of patient trust. Today, the advent of free-form lens production technology has now given ECPs tools that had previously been strictly within the province of the original lens designer. The proper use of these tools—most importantly the ability to specify progressive corridor length—now requires eyecare professionals to possess an in-depth understanding of the interplay between the eye’s natural reading level preferences, lens fitting parameters, individual prescription values and critically, even the design goals of the lens itself. Therefore, it is essential for ECPs to comprehensively understand the history, design, vocabulary, definitions, fitting concepts and Rx considerations involved in the fitting of progressive lenses, and the impact that choosing the ideal corridor length has on improving satisfaction, increasing trust and elevating your professional credibility in the eyes of your client.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES: Upon completion of this program, the participant should be able to: 1. Understand what opportunities are present for specifying progressive lens corridor lengths. 2. Know when a specific corridor length is required. 3. Learn the lenses and options when a specific corridor length is a requirement. Barry Santini graduated from New York Technical College in 1975 with an AAS in Ophthalmic Dispensing. He is a New York State licensed optician with contact lens certification, is ABO certified and was awarded an ABO Master in 1994. As sales manager for Tele Vue Optics from 1987 to 2003, Santini developed his knowledge of precision optics and has been an owner of Long Island Opticians in Seaford N.Y., from 1996 to present. In addition, Santini is an amatuer astronomer and lecturer and plays bass trombone in the Brooklyn Symphony. CREDIT: This course is approved for one (1) hour of CE credit by the American Board of Opticianry (ABO). Course STJHI120-2 This CE is also available online at www.2020mag.com
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THE CHALLENGE OF PROGRESSIVE DESIGN Although the invention of progressive addition lenses was first described in 1907, another 50 years would pass until Bernard Maitenaz of Essel, a forerunner of Essilor, engineered a way to commercially produce progressive lenses. Even as the hurdles of making lenses with a seamless transition between distance and reading were overcome, European opticians—long trained to prize optical quality above everything else— found themselves reluctant to embrace a new lens technology that appeared to increase optical errors rather than decrease them. In the first decades of progressive development, lens designers found that the easiest way to decrease surface astigmatism and distortion was to spread out the progressive gradient by making the progressive corridor as long as possible. This is the origin of why many ECPs favor longer corridor designs. But two problems can accompany this approach: 1. The reading level can end up uncomfortably low, and 2. Different frame “B” sizes may result in different reading levels. Here, wearers often experience discomfort and adaptation problems switch between pairs. This is, in fact, a problem we often encounter today. The defacto challenge facing progressive design was thus defined: How do we strike the optimal balance between comfort, acuity and utility for each prescription, wearer and frame style? The answer begins with defining a common, working vocabulary of basic progressive terms and fitting concepts. UNDERSTANDING PROGRESSIVE BASICS Unlike bifocal lenses, which have only two zones of vision and a sharp line marking the border between them, progressive lenses have many reference points that need to be considered. Below are the major cardinal points common to every progressive lens and their respective definitions: Fitting Point: The reference point at which the design’s fitting cross is placed. The com132 • September 2015 20/20
FIGURE 1
mon orthodoxy is to place the Fitting Point at the center of the eye’s pupil while the patient’s facial plane is in their natural position, i.e., normal posture. Often overlooked is that the progressive power gradient, i.e., the corridor, just begins its slope at the Fitting Point. In the most modern designs, this change is slow for the first 2 to 4 mm. Major Reference Point (MRP): These are the lens designer’s points of reference for optical calculation and alignment. The MRP is also the point for measuring prism in both an unmounted lens and a finished pair of eyewear. Some brands refer to the MRP as the PRP or Prism Reference Point. Alignment Reference Markings: These engraved reference points, 34 mm apart, 17 mm each side of the MRP, are used for aligning the progressive lens during finishing, as well as for verifying correct prescription axis and placement in a pair of finished eyewear. Progressive Drop: The distance between the Fitting Point and the MRP/Alignment Reference Marks. This value varies between different manufacturers and even different designs within a manufacturer’s lens portfolio. It can range from 0 to 6 mm, with 4 mm being the most commonly encountered value. Near Reference Point: The area outlined for verifying the reading Rx power. Distance Reference Point: The area outlined for verifying the distance Rx power, generally located approximately 4 mm above the Fitting Point, providing an area completely free of the progressive power gradient.
FITTING CONCEPTS IN MODERN PROGRESSIVES Below are the definitions and fitting concepts
needed to be understood by ECPs in order to fully grasp the mechanics of defining and choosing corridor length: Corridor Length: The linear distance between the beginning of the power gradient—the Fitting Point—and the target add value, most commonly defined as 85 percent of add power. Target Add Value: Variably classed as either 85, 95 or 100 percent of the prescribed add value, depending on the design. Manufacturers are free to define corridor lengths using either of these target add values. It is therefore important to contact the manufacturer and learn which value they use when you are comparing corridor lengths between different designs. Rule of thumb: Add approximately 2 mm to the corridor length of an 85 percent target add value design when comparing corridor lengths with a 100 percent target value design. Minimum Reading Area: Experience has shown that a progressive reading area should be a minimum of 4 mm to 5 mm in height. Many traditional short corridor designs may provide as little as 3 to 4 mm, which can result in compromised utility and comfort in the reading and intermediate areas. Minimum Fitting Height: The distance from the Fitting Point to the center of the reading area. Depending upon the manufacturer or design, targeting the Minimum Fitting Height can truncate up to half of the available reading area. A general recommendation is to choose a frame that allows the addition of between 2 mm and 4 mm to the Minimum Fitting Height. Doing so will ensure the wearer has the minimally-comfortable reading utility.
CHOOSING CORRIDOR LENGTH To begin the choice of a corridor length, start with your fitting height, and subtract 4 mm to 5 mm, which allocates enough height for a minimum useful reading area. The difference left is a good approximate number to begin determining your target corridor length. Here’s an example: For a fitting height of 18 mm, corridor length roughly calculates as follows: 18 mm minus 4 mm (minimum reading area height) = a 14 mm Corridor Length Value
Tip: Your calculated corridor length value may not always be obtainable in a specific progressive design. Therefore, always keep the minimum useful reading area in mind as you select the next closest corridor available. In the above example, if the design selected only provides a choice between an 8 mm or 10 mm corridor, the final value chosen will depend upon these additional considerations: Total Frame Height and Contour: Frame style, size and shape may dictate an adjustment to your target corridor length to ensure the full reading area is not truncated by the contour of the frame’s lower rim. Pupillary distance also places a role here, with narrower PDs more sensitive to being truncated by the upward slope of the frame’s nasal eyewire. Vertex Distance: Closer vertex distances require shorter corridors to compensate for the reduced drop of the eye’s declination intercept with the lens surface. And vice versa for long vertex distances, which then may need longer corridors. Pantoscopic Angle: Greater pantoscopic angles require shorter corridors, and lesser pantoscopic angles require longer corridors for the same conceptual reason stated above in vertex distance. Rule of thumb: Every 1-mm increase in corridor length will require approximately a 2-degree increase in eye declination. Tip: The less accommodation reserve, i.e., increasing age, the quicker the wearer will need to get to the target reading add.
RX CONSIDERATIONS Prescription considerations can influence your selection of corridor length: Total Add Power: Higher add powers— greater than 2.25D—feature smaller reading and narrower intermediate areas and more surface astigmatism. Therefore, a too short corridor may deliver unacceptable optics because of increased surface astigmatism. Rx Delta: Total power change seen in a new Rx should be considered for its impact on both distance vision clarity and reading declination. The direction of change, more plus or
less plus, is important to factor in as well, regardless of the specific type of ametropia. Ametropic Error: Spectacle magnification and prism may impact your corridor choice. The minified and upwardly displaced image in a myopic Rx requires consideration of selecting a shorter value for the corridor. For hyperopic prescriptions, because of image magnification and base up prism, the opposite is true. Center of Rotation and Dioptric Error: Hyperopic eyes have shorter axial lengths, while myopic eyes feature longer axial lengths. These axial length differences place the center of rotation of hyperopic eyes closer to the cornea, while in myopic eyes the CR further away. This, along with the fitted vertex distance, can influence the actual point where the visual axis intersects the lens when the eye rotates downward for the near gaze point. Prism Thinning: If base down thinning prism is present, it will upwardly deviate the image at near. In higher adds, this results in a noticeable decrease of the required eye depression angle for the wearer and is important to keep in mind as you determine corridor length. Lens Design Priority: The basic design priority of the lens, i.e., whether the distance, intermediate or reading area has been targeted to be most important, can further impact your corridor value calculation. For example, a client with a plano DV/+2.00D add may state a preference for clear, edgeto-edge distance vision. Choosing a lens design with this as a top priority, but mated to a frame with a short fitting height, illustrates the dilemma of trying to optimize a progressive lens to both a patient’s wishes and their chosen frame style. Non-Linear Progressive Power Gradient: Traditional progressives have featured a linear slope of increasing power. Newer, special designs, optimized for computer and users of mobile devices, deliver a non-linear corridor power gradient, with the top portion of the corridor featuring a faster increase in power. Some wearer’s may complain these designs intrude on their DV acuity when they are switching from a traditional or balanced
design. Compounding factors here include patient posture and the amount and direction of the prescription change.
COPING WITH CORRIDORS In traditional progressive lenses, the designer defines a series of performance goals, including a target corridor length and reading add, fixed lens areas, along with a merit weighting of various optical errors, and then enters into an iterative process to figure out which elements of progressive surface should be manipulated to achieve these goals. Twenty years ago, when frame fashion took a left turn into small B dimensions, manufacturers responded with new, “shorter” corridor versions of their best-selling designs. For years afterward, ECPs often had only the choice between a normal, longer corridor design, or a compact, shorter corridor design. The optics of these early compact offerings, designed for fitting heights of 15 mm and less, were limited by the production constraints imposed by the manufacture of traditional molded surfaces. Often they were significantly compromised by poor peripheral acuity, inadequate intermediate utility, excessive swim and insufficient reading comfort, and therefore were only selected when fitting requirements absolutely demanded. Although manufacturers could have produced a series of separate lenses with stepped corridor options, the economics of manufacturing and inventorying such an expanded series, further compounded by material and feature options, dictated a market reality where offering two corridor versions became the norm. VARIABLE VERSUS FIXED CORRIDOR DESIGN Knowing when to use a variable corridor versus a fixed corridor design is both a powerful and useful tool. The main distinction is that variable designs are often used to prioritize the quality of the distance/intermediate area, and fixed designs are used for prioritizing the reading area: Variable Corridor Designs: Variable designs allow the ECP to adjust the corridor length as they desire. Longer corridors soften the proSeptember 2015 20/20 • 133
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gressive gradient across the lens, resulting in lower surface astigmatism. Benefits can include improved peripheral vision and an increase in the width of the intermediate and reading areas. Fixed Corridor Designs: Fixed designs are used when prioritizing the size of the reading zone and/or the amount of eye declination
required to reach the target add power. Fixed designs excel when fitting a mature add bifocal wearer—greater than 2.25D add— with their first progressive lens. Fitting pearl: Bifocal wearers, fitted with segments set 8 mm to 9 mm below pupil, are well-suited to using a 10 mm to 12 mm corridor referenced to a 95 to 100 percent target add
UNDERSTANDING THE EFFECTS OF GAZE ANGLES AND POSTURE Research to assess the normal resting and reading positions of the human eye has been extensively carried out by many lens companies and has revealed the following information: DISTANCE VISION GAZE: The primary gaze angle of the eye looking straight is generally referenced to the facial plane, defined as the line that connects the brow, upper and lower orbital bones and the jaw. For a typical distance gaze discussion, the facial plane is considered perpendicular to the floor, thereby providing a distance gaze angle of 0 degree. However, depending on the fit of the chosen frame, the pantoscopic tilt of the lenses may lie at a different angular value. Careful attention must be paid to both the patient’s posture and how the fitter’s technique may be affecting the measured value (see “The Problem with Posture”). And while the actual progressive transition does begin at the Fitting Point, the initial power gradient here generally does not exceed 0.25D until 3 mm to 4 mm below the FP. This helps ensure wearer comfort and acuity within the common range of head/posture-influenced facial plane angles. READING VISION GAZE: The typical gaze angles for comfortable reading range from 25 to 32 degrees, with the average value assumed to be 30 degrees. This range corresponds to an area on the spectacle lens between 12.5 mm to 16 mm below the FP, fitted with a pantoscopic tilt of 8 degrees. But the actual near gaze angle can be influenced by the wearer’s actual facial plane angle when reading, influenced by fixation distance, accommodation/convergence demand, natural posture, reading height preference, occupation, motility restrictions or simple wearer habit. It is therefore essential for the eyecare professional to be alert and analytical in determining a person’s actual near gaze angle as they work or read.
THE PROBLEM WITH POSTURE In view of the above, it should be clear that one of the most confounding elements of corridor selection is the need to assess a patient’s normal head and neck posture. This is exacerbated by the truncated time available with the patient during selection of a pair of eyewear. From the moment you initially greet a client, try to ascertain if their natural posture is normal or compensatory, using the following guidelines: NORMAL POSTURAL HABIT: The normal head posture of the wearer. COMPENSATORY POSTURAL HABIT: Depending upon how their current glasses have been measured, fitted or the need for a prescription change, a wearer may have developed a compensatory modification of their normal head posture in order to obtain better acuity for driving, using a computer or for reading. For example, a new Rx could reveal a change which effectively adds more plus power. This wearer may seem to exhibit an upward head tilt, developed over time, to compensate and adapt their present Rx for better reading, intermediate or distance clarity. If the patient in question is also known to have trouble adapting to prescription changes, an ECP might consider fitting the new progressive slightly lower than the normal pupil reference/ Fitting Point, thereby attempting to accommodate this posture habit. Then, using a shorter corridor design, ensure a comfortable eye depression angle for reading. It is important to keep the frame’s B size and the minimum recommended reading height in mind here when choosing the final corridor length. TIP: Knowing when to ask a patient to learn to use their glasses by adapting their posture habit is just as important as knowing when not to. Time and experience are your friends here, and ECPs should avoid creating strict rules based on a few exceptional experiences.
134 • September 2015 20/20
value. (You’re not still fitting bifocal segments using people’s lower lids, without noting how far below their pupil the segment line is, are you?)
USING THE ADVANCED VARIABLE CORRIDOR If you are ever intimidated or overwhelmed by the idea of juggling all the above factors in order to arrive at an optimal corridor length, then you can always consider selecting one of the advanced, premium class fully-optimized designs. These fully-personalized position of wear designs will automatically take all of the variables into account to strike an ideal balance between distance, intermediate and reading in selecting the final corridor length. You can maximize the customization by uploading the actual frame tracing, along with all the known position of wear variables. More advanced designs promise even greater wearer satisfaction by factoring in the wearer’s previous lens design, corridor length, prescription, as well as center of rotation, eye dominance and head cape, if known. These highly customized designs may also feature the ability for dispensers to tweak the final reading height and corridor length by choosing from one of a variety of design priorities, including balanced, distance, intermediate or near.
FINDING THE MAGIC The greatest challenge in progressive fitting remains the expert integration and assessment of an individual’s posture, prescription, needs and wants, and mating that to a chosen lens design and frame style. As we begin to unleash the power of the corridor “genie,” eyecare professionals can finally access one of the most powerful tools at their disposal for the fitting of progressive lenses. Don’t remain a novice in your understanding of corridors, and have complaining patients swirling about your waiting room. Use the power of choosing corridor length to harmonize patient, prescription and lens design to frame choice. As patients discover the magic of true progressive satisfaction, so will your bottom line. ■
S E L F - A S S E S S M E N T E X A M I N AT I O N 1. The target add of a progressive lens can vary from what percentage of the prescribed add? a. 85 to 95 percent b. 75 to 95 percent c. 75to 100 percent d. 85 to 100 percent 2. Bernard Maitenaz of Essel is credited with: a. Inventing the first progressive lens b. Producing the first progressive lens c. Designing the first progressive lens d. Redoing the first progressive lens 3. A common value for the progressive drop is: a. 34 mm between the pupils b. 4 mm above the fitting point c. 4 mm below the fitting point d. 0.5 mm every degree of pantoscopic tilt 4. To compare a lens with a target add value of 85 percent to one with a target add value of 100 percent, one should: a. Add 2 mm to the 85 percent target add value corridor length b. Add 15 percent to the 85 percent target add value corridor length c. Add 4 mm to the 85 percent target add value fitting height d. Subtract 2 mm from the 85 percent target add value corridor length 5. The most complementary adjustment for a highly myopic eye’s center of rotation is: a. More pantoscopic tilt b. Less pantoscopic tilt c. Closer vertex distance d. Lower fitting height
distance zones as much as possible d. Reducing swim as much as possible 8. Which type of progressive design is best utilized to a mature-add bifocal wearer? a. Fixed corridor design b. Optimized variable corridor design c. Wrap-compensated design d. A very long corridor design 9. Which area of a traditional compact progressive design is most compromised? a. Distance area b. Reading area c. Intermediate and reading areas d. Steep base curve availability 10. Head-elevated compensatory posture habits in progressives are related to the need to: a. Move the Rx to needing more plus b. Move the Rx to needing more minus c. Move the progressive height lower d. Lengthen the progressive corridor 11. The typical range of reading gaze angles ranges from ______ on each side of the most commonly assumed average value. a. 25 to 32 b. 5 to 7 c. 2 to 5 d. 20 to 35
6. The most non-complementary adjustment for a highly hyperopic eye’s center of rotation is: a. More pantoscopic tilt b. Decreasing vertex distance c. Increasing vertex distance d. Lowering the fitting height
12. Too much plus or insufficient minus cylinder power can degrade the acuity and comfort in the distance area of a progressive lens because: a. The initial progressive gradient begins at the MRP b. The progressive gradient begins to stabilize at the target add value c. The progressive gradient is more noticeable with a compensatory, head-forward facial plane tilt d. The initial progressive gradient begins at the Fitting Point
7. Using an advanced variable corridor design facilitates: a. Making small prescription adjustments b. Ensuring that the final design results in as optimally balanced a design as possible c. Prioritizing correction of the peripheral
13. Comfortable reading utility requires a stable reading zone of at least: a. 3 mm to 4 mm in height b. 4 mm to 5 mm in height c. 30 degrees in size d. 110 percent of the target add value
14. Fixed corridor designs are great for prioritizing comfort and utility in the: a. Reading zone b. Intermediate zone c. Distance zone d. Outer peripheral zones 15. Some early traditional progressive designs found that decreasing surface astigmatism and distortion was best accomplished by: a. Employing a shorter corridor b. Employing a non-linear corridor c. Employing a longer corridor d. Recommending a lower fitting height 16. Non-linear progressive corridors were introduced for: a. People who drive for a living b. Users of computers and mobile devices c. Users of over-the-counter readers d. Contact lens wearers 17. The Major Reference Point is synonymous with: a. The Fitting Point b. The lens engravings c. The Prism Reference Point d. The Minimum Fitting Height 18. At 3 mm to 4 mm below the Fitting Point, the initial progressive power gradient generally does not exceed: a. 0.06 diopters b. 0.12 diopters c. 0.25 diopters d. 0.37 diopters 19. Base down prism thinning ground into a strong plus prescription improves cosmetics and deviates the reading image in a direction that is: a. Considered unfavorable b. Considered favorable c. Neither favorable nor unfavorable d. Unfavorable for a stronger myope 20. The Target Add Value is generally: a. 85 percent of the intermediate Rx b. 110 percent of the reading add c. 15 percent more than the intermediate Rx d. 85 percent of the reading add September 2015 20/20 • 135
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Examination Answer Sheet 1 hour of CE credit by the American Board of Opticianry ~ Valid for credit through May 11, 2020 This exam can be taken online at www.2020mag.com. Upon passing the exam, you can view your results immediately. You can also view your test history at any time from the Web site. Coping With Corridors Directions: Select one answer for each question in the exam and completely darken the appropriate circle. A minimum score of 80% is required to obtain a certificate. Mail to: Jobson OptSC, PO Box 488, Canal Street Station, New York, NY 10013. Payment: Remit $14.99 with this exam. Check is enclosed (payable to Jobson Publishing). Charge my: American Express Mastercard Visa Name on card: _________________________________________________________________________________________ Credit card #: __________________________________________________________________________________________ Expiration date: _________________________________________________________________________________________ Signature: _________________________________________________________________________________
1. A
B
C
D
11. A
B
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D
1=Excellent
2=Very Good
3=Good
4=Fair
5=Poor
2. A
B
C
D
12. A
B
C
D
In questions 21-23 please rate the effectiveness of each activity:
3. A
B
C
D
13. A
B
C
D
21. Met the stated learning objectives?
1
2
3
4
5
D
22. Avoided commercial bias/influence?
1
2
3
4
5
23. How would you rate the overall quality of the material presented?
1
2
3
4
5
4. A
B
C
D
14. A
B
C
5. A
B
C
D
15. A
B
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D
6. A
B
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D
16. A
B
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D
7. A
B
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D
17. A
B
C
D
24. How were you directed to this course? A 2020mag.com D Ohio Opticians Website
8. A
B
C
D
18. A
B
C
D
B OAA Website
9. A
B
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D
19. A
B
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D
C NYSSO Website
10. A
B
C
D
20. A
B
C
D
E Other
25. Please describe the office in which you work. A Independent Optician
C Chain retail
B Independent Optometry
D HMO/Military/Other
Comments on this course: ____________________________________________________________________ Future Topics: ______________________________________________________________________________
Please retain a copy for your records. Please print clearly.
First Name Last Name E-Mail The following is your:
Home Address
Business Address
Business Name Address City
State Fax
Telephone # Profession:
Zip
Optician
Contact Lens Fitter
Other
By submitting this answer sheet, I certify that I have read the lesson in its entirety and completed the self-assessment exam personally based on the material presented. I have not obtained the answers to this exam by any fraudulent or improper means.
Lesson 111755
136 • September 2015 20/20
Date ________________________
STJHI120-2
✂
Signature _________________________________________________________________________
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PA R T I N G GLANCE
2014 @20/20 Always study the 20/20 September 15 Seller’s Guide. Last year we took a chance putting a limited edition Chloe sunglass from Marchon on the cover, convinced it would have an impact on optical far beyond just sunglass specialty and department stores. The look of this magnificent style now influences the full Chloe collection and all of the hottest p sunwear in optical. —JJS EYE SHALL RETURN
General Douglas MacArthur was NOT a birth-righted member of what we now refer to as The Great Generation, those who fought in World War II. But… he was their leader on the eastern front as Eisenhower was in Europe. He is best known for promising to return in victory to defeat Japan as he did, then leading the efforts in that country to recover from the devastation of the war. He returned. He never gave up. We’d never want to place anything eyewear-related up against such amazing achievements but the man is well noted for his favoring what became known as aviator sunglasses. And the “great” generation he commanded is equally enamored with the style. And… as we well know, the aviator always returns. Actually, it never leaves. It is always popular. Remember to note your thoughts on the ultimate GenEYE Millennial eyewear icon by e-mailing jspina@jobson.com.
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