sr e46us by fredefermaso4

STITCZEHS IN SI

8-26

rn only. Patte *UK sizes

vary sizes may

The UK’s Best-selling Sewing Mag!

14 SIZZLING Summer Looks

JULY 2021 ISSUE 151 £9.99

PARK-TO-PUB JERSEY SHIFT · COMFY KIDDIE ROMPER HERO HOODIE TOP · ULTIMATE LACE COLLAR TEE

QUICK DENIM CLASSIC

IDEAL FIRST GARMENT

Look chic in the heat!

! in W Worth “Sewing Bee changed mAFyT CAliREfeER!”S THE HIT SHOW THAT’S CATAPULTING CR

...could you be next?

£500

Summer SEWING AHEAD Meet our EXPERTS

Mimi G shares her pattern picks for the summer season

Stuart Hillard embraces the ancient art of shibori dyeing

unny staycations at the beach aren’t far off the horizon, and this month we couldn’t resist bringing a nautical touch to our projects. So, before you drift on down to the dunes, be sure to stitch yourself a sunglasses case (p59), reversible beach hat (p56), plus an embroidered bag to keep your favourite cozzie (p68) and towel close to hand. For those of you who prefer a stroll along the promenade to a day in the surf – you can achieve coastal chic with the four stretch knit dresses of Simplicity 8375, then complete your look with one of the three throw-on jackets from Simplicity 9124. Your wardrobe will also be saying a warm hello to a selection of easy-breezy garments, including a classic denim skirt (p24), statement summer dress (p17), and a jersey hoodie (p20). Thanks to our fabulous range of home accessories, the sand in your shoes won’t be the only element of beach life that you will be bringing into your household, as you will find an adorable seagull mascot over on page 48, not to mention a beach hut doorstop (p52) and a personalised nautical cushion (p66). After riding the rocky waves of the last year or so, there has never been a better time to embrace calm waters, clear skies, and a summer of nautical stitching.

Anchors aweigh!

Debbie Shore reveals the trick to perfect princess seams

Lucy

SIMPLICITY 8375, P1 0

G, P40 DRAWSTRING BA

Subscribe TODAY!

2 FREE* FABRICS Plus Dress Pattern

Lucy Jobber, Editor

Cover image: BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon

See p54

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Ahoy there stitchers! Make our skirt on page 24

DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates Our exclusive patterns are available to download in sizes

8-24

6 NAUTICAL CUSHION, P6

BEACH HUT DOO RSTOP, P52

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Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY

We sew it, so you can trust it! Our mission is to help you create items we know you'll love; it's why all of our patterns are made and tested by experienced stitchers.

July 2021

Contents

In Every Issue

3 Welcome Come and say hello!

6 Who, what, wear What’s trending in the sewing world

44 Sew social

30 Dear Sew...

52 Beach hut stop

You’ve been sharing your makes

Top tips for toy making

36 Don't bee a stranger

Deck out your door with this beautiful make

75 Shop and sew

We caught up with the alumni

56 Seaside collection

The team’s round-up for July

65 Stuart Hillard Our columnist tries shibori

You’ll love these playful beach essentials!

76 Digital digest

90 10 minutes with...

66 Nautical Cushion Set

Wendy Ward chats sustainable sewing

68 Swimming pouch

Check out what we have to offer online

82 Sew book club

Master the art of appliqué

The latest must-reads

Home & Gifts

Stitch a beautiful accessory

84 Sewing school

41 Stripy scrap busters

The jargon explained!

Celebrate the seaside with these nautical makes

Make the most of your Janome machine

89 Next month Our August issue’s out on 24th June 2021

Tea Break 27 Mimi G

42 Sidney the seagull Sew this lovely marine bird

50 Blue whales

72 Patchwork bag

Stitch these delightful Tilda sea creatures

Our new columnist shares summer pattern picks 4 sewmag.co.uk

Chosen 54 Subscriptions

Receive a storage and pattern bundle

61 Giveaways Enter to win over £1,000 of prizes

PATTERNS INSIDE!

USE YOUR GIFTS TO SEW SIX FAB GARMENTS!

PACKED PAGES OF PATTERNS & PROJECTS

24 Suzy skirt Exude elegance in this classic pattern

26 Fashion forecast Sail away with our nautical picks

28 Chloe top Upgrade your style with this fun design

30 Debbie Shore Discover how to stitch a princess seam

33 Playtime romper Sew this darling children’s outfit for playtime

38 Juliet Uzor Our columnist takes a trip down memory lane

Dressmaking 10 Eight summer essentials Beautify your wardrobe with this month’s fab gifts

The latest from Debbie Shore, p30

17 Aura dress Feel fabulous in this floaty frock

20 Spot top

Step out in this stylish garment

22 Indie news Don’t miss out on these independent brand picks

for you...

74 Reader offer

Receive a FREE* Stitching book!

Freebies & Offers

Get to know Wendy Ward, p90 5 sewmag.co.uk

Swimsuit Season Everyone deserves to look and feel their best this summer, and thanks to The Classic Swimsuit sewing pattern from Rebecca Page, that has never been easier. Available in sizes XS to 6XL, with cups AA to M, this timeless one-piece promises a flawless fit thanks to its shaped cups and full lining. You also have the option of introducing an underwire, power bar, powermesh or wider straps to your finished look. What’s more, you can choose between a plain or gathered front depending on your style preferences. This pattern costs £11 from rebecca-page.com

Go Organic Certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard and made from 100% organic cotton, this gorgeous design is featured in the Going Where The Wind Blows Collection. Designed for dressmaking, this Interlock material provides a natural stretch without any added spandex. Plus, thanks to its knitted construction, it is incredibly soft on both sides, so it is not only slightly thicker and more stable than other knits, it will also sit gently against your skin. This fabric and many more can be ordered from roo-tid.com

w ho what WEAR

The sewing world is a hub of excitement, keep up!

Summer Reading

Monthly Makes Boasting luxury fabrics, step-by-step instructions, free postage, and everything you need to complete a gorgeous sewing project, the Skimming Stones Subscription Box will be delivered to your door every month. Whether you arrange this subscription for yourself or decide to treat a crafty pal, this service is sure to be a treat. Flexible too, you have the option of canceling your subscription at any time or skipping a month. Buy a one-off box or subscribe today at skimmingstonesdesigns.com

6 sewmag.co.uk

Don’t forget to check out your free* copy of Search Press’ summer 2021 catalogue with this issue of Sew! It’s packed with their latest releases, including books on sustainable crafting, sewing, knitting, crochet, painting, drawing and much more, plus there’s a 75% discount on selected titles, so you can treat yourself to some holiday reads! searchpress.com *Available in subscription copies only

ADVERTORIAL

New Collection If you buy

Alert!

Launching this June, Sunburst from Art Gallery Fabrics is the perfect opportunity for you to spice up your sewing supplies. A brilliant fit for our nautical theme, this selection of premium cotton and spandex knit blends is available as a handy fat quarter bundle. Alternatively, the fabrics can be bought separately for your dressmaking projects. For further details, visit hantexonline.co.uk

one pattern…

You can enjoy both style and comfort thanks to the beautiful skirt designs of NewLook 6437. Boasting a feature flat front and an elasticated back, these pull-on skirts can be finished with a flattering tie belt, lace inset panels or a sheer layered effect. Floaty and fabulous, they will keep you cool all summer long. £3, simplicity.com

Meet Patrick! Button Through Midi Tencel Skirt, £29.99 from mandco.com

If you’re loving The Great British Sewing Bee, don’t miss Create and Craft’s follow-up show Sewing Bee: Behind the Seams which is available on their Facebook page and YouTube channel every Thursday. What’s more, Singer is offering the chance to win a place in a sewing class with The Great British Sewing Bee judge Patrick Grant. To be in with a chance of winning, purchase a Singer sewing machine from an authorised UK stockist between 1st April and 31st July 2021**. To find out more visit createandcraft. com/singer **For full T&Cs visit singerco.co.uk/patrick

VIRTUAL LEARNING If you have an interest in pattern construction, consider joining Skillshare to gain access to designer Hyden Yoo’s Pattern Drafting course. skillshare.com It’s not too late for you to catch up with The Big Sew Quilt-Along. All six video tutorials and templates are available now. youtube.com/thecraftschannel Achieve the perfect fit with help from The English Tailor. This informative YouTube channel will guide you through the basics of tailoring for both men and women. youtube.com

Patrick Grant: BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon

All About Overlocking The Enspire, otherwise known as the most compact overlock machine from baby lock, offers freedom and comfort when sewing creative projects. With this incredible device to hand, you can precisely adjust the tension to personalise your seams, plus the JetAir™ system ensures the threading process is easier than ever. As if that wasn’t enough, the knife and stitch finger move at the same time, allowing you to adjust the stitch width individually right down to the narrowest rolled hem, so you will never again have to deal with frayed fabric edges. Discover the full range at babylock.co.uk

20% OFF

Jersey Fabrics at MINERVA.COM

Jessa Sewing Pattern at TILLYANDTHEBUTTONS.COM

Use code: SEWJERSEY

Use code: SEWJESSA

T&Cs: one use per customer, cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer 27th May to 8th July 2021

7 sewmag.co.uk

12 Patterns 30Looks

TAILORED TO SUIT YOUR SIZE, STYLE & POCKET deal for swimmers, sun-seekers and of course, stitchers, this month's coastal collection is a guaranteed winner for the summer months. Embrace soft silhouettes with our A-line shift, delight in denim with our button skirt, plus fall for our snuggly hoodie and long-sleeve lace top – firm favourites for beach strolls.

4 Styles

4 Designs 8 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING

Your sew Exclusive Designs

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

All the patterns you need to get started are available to download at our website sewmag.co.uk. Simply register or log-in to get started!

All of our patterns are available from sizes 8-24* and already include seam allowances. Remember to make a toile to ensure the best fit for you. *excludes covermounted gifts

8-24* Sizing 28

YOUR SIZING CHART (CM) 8

Bust

103

108

113

118

Waist

Hip

103

108

113

118

123

Back neck to waist

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Summer Essentials CREATE A CAPSULE COLLECTION WITH

SIMPLICITY 8375 AND SIMPLICITY 9124 Build your perfect summer wardrobe with a selection of hackable dresses, tops and cover-ups in sizes XXS-XXL

WHAT’S YOUR SIMPLICITY SIZE? Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit sewdirect.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

MAKE IT YOURS Both of the patterns included with this month’s issue of Sew can be customised in a whole variety of ways, allowing you to create a fully bespoke capsule collection that’s perfect for wearing throughout the summer months, whether you’re enjoying the sun at home in the garden or venturing out for a few days away.

IT’S A STRETCH Simplicity 8375 is sized for stretch knits only, such as jersey, interlock and Spandex. This means that you must choose your fabric carefully, taking into account the amount of stretch it has and the direction of the stretch, too. If you choose to use a non-stretch fabric instead, it’s highly likely that the finished garment won’t fit in the way it’s supposed to – or you might even find that you can’t get it on at all. Check out the suggested fabrics on the back of the envelope for a little extra guidance.

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DRESSMAKING

This pattern is available in sizes

up to

XXL

4 Hack‘n’Go Garments WITH SIMPLICITY

8375 This wonderfully creative pattern pack takes a chic stretch-fit dress and offers multiple options for completely making it your own – including a tie-back design, a sleeveless ruffle-skirted tunic and a flattering top with a slash-sleeve detail. With multiple customisation ideas and full instructions given, this pattern challenges you to find your own creative inspiration and stitch a complete capsule wardrobe from just one base design.

You’ll need a little extra fabric to create this gathered frill detail

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FEELING HOT, HOT, HOT This pattern pack is perfect for creating a capsule wardrobe for the warm summer months, so you’ll want to make sure you pick fabrics that will suit a warmer climate, too. Try to work with natural, breathable materials such as cotton jersey or stretch bamboo, rather than man-made fibres such as nylon or polyester that might feel stuffy and cling in all the wrong places.

EASY FIT With no darts or other complicated fitting elements to worry about, Simplicity 8375 is the perfect design for those of you who aren’t yet fully experienced with tailoring techniques, or perhaps even fall in-between sizes. The casual silhouetteskimming fit of the garment combines with the recommended stretch fabric to create a piece that will feel comfortable on a range of different sizes and body shapes. What’s more, there’s no buttons, zips or other fastenings to worry about – just the optional tie-back design of option two, which we think is well worth the extra effort.

WHAT’S IN A STRETCH This pattern pack is strictly designed for use with stretch fabrics. When picking your material, you’ll need to consider several things, such as what is it made from, what percentage of stretch it has, and which direction(s) the stretch lies in. It’s important to match the stretch of your fabric with the recommendation given within the pattern to ensure the garment fits correctly – Simplicity’s patterns now include a Pick a Knit gauge, to make this process easier. Generally speaking, most stretch fabrics have either a two-way stretch, meaning it pulls in two directions, or a four-way stretch, which means – as you may have guessed – that it will pull in four directions. Four-way is more pliable than two-way, making it better suited to close-fitting projects such as athletic wear and swimwear. One-way stretch is also available, but tends to only offer a small amount of give, making it unsuitable for many stretch-fit patterns – including this one.

CHOOSE YOUR

style

STYLE A The Main Event This curve-skimming stretch-knit dress features a simple silhouette with long sleeves, a rounded neckline and a flattering hemline that cuts at the mid-thigh. Dress it up or down with shoes and accessories to suit your mood.

STYLE B Bow Tie Back Once you’re ready to step things up a gear, take on option two – which updates the base design with a contrasting hem and sleeve detail, scooped contrast neckline and a gorgeous tie-back. Team it with heels and a clutch for a wow-worthy ensemble.

STYLE C Gather Up Option three removes the sleeves from the base dress and adds a flirty dropped ruffle to the hemline, creating the ideal outfit for a casual day at the beach or a picnic in the park.

STYLE D Go Cropped Finally, option four removes the whole bottom half of the garment, turning it into a chic hip-skimming top. Better still, it features a fun slash-sleeve detail to add an extra touch of design interest.

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DRESSMAKING

4 Gorgeous

Cover-Ups WITH SIMPLICITY

9124

With three different hem lengths to choose from, matching or contrasting edge bands and an optional lace trim, Simplicity 9124 creates a gorgeous and fullycustomisable throw-on design that’s ideal for delicate silks, crepes and batiks. Pick from a shorter croppedhem version, a mid-length cover-up (cut straight or crosswise), or a pretty high-low hem design that sweeps down from front to back to flatter the hipline. Finish your creation with a matching or contrasting neckline and sleeve bands, or go for a fancy finish with a special lace edge.

The curved front creates a subtle hourglass illusion

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CHOOSE YOUR STYLE A Take It Up

style

This option shortens the hem of the garment and cuts it straight across. Choose to finish your neckline and sleeves with either a matching or contrast fabric band, or alternatively opt for something a little fancier with a lace trimmed edge.

STYLE B Dip It Low Option B adds a stylish dipped hem to the bottom of the garment, starting higher at the front waistline and dropping down at the back of the garment to flatter the figure. Again, you can customise the finish of this cover-up with your choice of sleeve and neckline edging.

STYLE C Criss Cross This slight variation looks similar to option B, but has one key difference – the fabric pieces are cut crosswise (from selvedge to selvedge), instead of running with the grain as they normally would. The crosswise grain of woven fabric has more stretch, which gives this design a slightly different drape and feel to the other options.

STYLE D All-In-One This final version is slightly different once again, cutting the sleeve and body pieces of each side of the garment in one piece, rather than cutting the sleeves separately as in the other design options. This removes the seam around the armhole and gives the piece a more draped finish. The band around the sleeve hem has also been removed for a clean-cut edge.

Atelier Brunette Dune Viscose in Off White, £18.99, minerva.com

Atelier Brunette Dune Viscose in Chestnut, £18.99, minerva.com STAY STRONG This pattern calls for a lightweight fusible interfacing to add strength around the neckline. Legacy Lightweight Shape Flex is an all-purpose fusible interfacing that provides crisp support to fabrics, including delicate silks.

£8.99 per metre, minerva.com

BE SHARP It’s essential when working with delicate, slippery fabrics that you use a sharp blade to trim your pattern pieces. This 8” pair of shears from Prym features a special micro-serrated blade that holds the fabric in place as you cut, stopping it from slipping. Prym 8” Gold Edition Tailor’s Shears, £39.90, empressmills.co.uk 14 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING

Next month’s

2Patterns Bonus

Four versatile gathered skirts

STUNNING ENSEMBLE Create a gorgeous outfit combo with this flattering collection

Six basic simple-sew tops

SIZES 8-26 (UK) SIZES 10-26 (UK)

August issue on sale 24th June 2021 15 sewmag.co.uk

16 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates Our exclusive patterns are available to download in sizes

8-24

Make a statement with our A-line

Aura Dress This gorgeous piece from Posner & Posner oozes glamour and sophistication. With its delicate V-neck and shapely silhouette, you’re sure to make an impression at any occasion. A great project for advanced beginners, you’ll master fitting sleeves, inserting a lining and creating flattering darts. All in a day’s stitching!

17 sewmag.co.uk

BEGINNER

1 ESSENTIALS Fabric, 2m (150cm) Lining fabric, 2m Fusible interfacing, 25cm Button, 15mm, one

SUGGESTED FABRICS Lightweight wovens with drape, such as viscose challis, crepe de chine and cotton lawn

SIZES 8-24

Get started

CUTTING GUIDE

Front: cut one on the fold from fabric and one on the fold from lining if used Back: cut two from fabric and two from lining, if used Sleeve: cut two from fabric and two from ining, if used Front neck facing: cut one on the fold from fabric and one on the fold from interfacing Back neck facing: cut two from fabric and two from interfacing 1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise stated.

Download the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then print out and follow the cutting guide. With right sides together, pin and sew the darts in the front dress and in the optional front lining. Press the darts down towards the hem and stay stitch around the front neck edge within the seam allowance. With right sides together, pin and sew the centre back seam up to the opening mark. Neaten the edges and press the seam open, then repeat with the back dress lining if used. Press the centre back opening along the seam allowance.

Stay stitch around the back neck edge within the seam allowance. With right sides together, pin and sew the front and back dress at the shoulder seams. Neaten the edges of the seam and press open. Repeat for the lining if used. With right sides together and matching the notches, pin and sew the side seams of the dress. Neaten the seam edges and press open. Repeat for the lining if used.

With right sides together and matching the notches, pin and sew the underarm seam of the sleeve. Neaten the edges and press the seam open. Do the same for the lining if used. Insert the sleeve into the armhole. Match the notches at the shoulder seam and the front and back armhole and line up the underarm sleeve seam with the side seam of the dress. Pin in place right sides together, easing the sleeve to fit and sew. Overlock or zig zag

L IN THE DE L A TA I

around the seam to neaten and press towards the sleeve. Repeat for the lining if used.

4 L

If lining the dress, position it inside the garment, wrong sides together. Pin around the neckline and sew in place close to the raw edge to secure. Push the lining sleeves into the dress sleeves and position in place lining up the sleeve seams at the wrist edge. Tuck the edge of the lining into the pressed back opening, up to the pressed edge. Turn in the raw edge of the back opening over the top of the lining to neaten.

SEW MAGAZINE 32

This classic V-neck perfectly frames a statement necklace

Apply fusible interfacing to the front and back neck facing pieces. With right sides together, pin the facings together at the shoulder seam and stitch. Trim the seam and press open. Neaten the edge of the facing using an overlocker, zig zag stitch or small turning. With right sides together and matching notches and shoulder seams, pin the facing around the neckline. At the back opening, fold the edge of the opening back on itself along the pressed edge and position underneath the facing.

18 sewmag.co.uk

Stitch around the neckline, pivoting at the centre V and clip into it. Fasten around the back neck and trim the seam. Understitch around the neckline and fold the back opening back into place with the facing edge underneath. Press around the neckline with the facing turned to the wrong side of the dress.

Make a small rouleau loop or use a narrow ribbon and insert beneath the facing on the left side to form a button loop. Stitch the loop in place. The facing and back opening can be topstitched in place or slip-stitched to the lining. Sew a button in position on the top of the right back opening.

Turn up the hem of the dress and stitch in place. Fold up the hem of the lining after cutting the length slightly shorter than the dress. Turn under the sleeve hem and press. Rotate the raw edge inside to meet the pressed edge and stitch. If lining the dress, the sleeve lining can be tucked under the sleeve hem and slip-stitched in place.

DRESSMAKING

We made this dress with Lady McElroy viscose challis in Multicoloured,

£15.99 per metre, minerva.com

15%* OFF Viscose fabric shown at

MINERVA.COM Use code: SEWVISCOSE *T&Cs: one use per customer, 27th May to 8th July 2021, cannot be used in conjunction with other offers or promotions.

19 sewmag.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE

Your new partner for laidback weekends, it’s our

Olivia Top

ESSENTIALS Fabric, 2m (150cm) Cord or woven tape, 1m Fusible interfacing, 25cm

SUGGESTED FABRICS Knit fabrics with 5% stretch, such as French terry or cotton jersey

Designed by Posner and Posner, this relaxed pull-on can be popped into your beach tote, ready for when the night gets nippy. It’s a great next step for beginners looking to dip their toes into stretch knits, and sewers can master fitting sleeves and pockets, plus using an overlocker too. Why not finish yours with faux woven ties in a bright pop of colour?

SIZES 8-24

CUTTING GUIDE

Get started

Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Collar: cut one on the fold from fabric, and one from fusible interfacing up to the centre fold line of the collar Front neck facing: cut one on the fold from fabric and one on the fold of fusible interfacing Back neck facing: cut one on the fold from fabric and one on the fold from fusible interfacing Sleeve: cut two Pocket: cut four 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.

Download the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then print and follow the cutting guide. Cut fusible interfacing, 10cm x 15cm, and apply to the wrong side of the front centre top to reinforce the front opening. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front and back neck facing pieces. Pin the facings together at the shoulder seams and stitch, then trim and press the seam open. Neaten the edge of the facing using an overlocker or zig zag stitch.

P CLOSE AND

Position the front facing piece onto the centre front, right sides together. Sew along the stitching line for the opening, pivoting at the bottom edge. Trim and clip into the corners. Turn the facing to the inside of the front and press the edge. With right sides together, pin the back to the front at the shoulder seams and stitch. Neaten the edge of the seam using an overlocker or zig zag stitch and press towards the back.

NA L

Apply fusible interfacing to half the collar, up to the centre line where the collar piece is folded. Fold the collar in half, right sides together, and pin and stitch across the ends. Trim the seam and turn the collar to the right side. Press the ends of the collar along the seam line, then press the collar in half with raw edges together. Pin the double edge of the collar to the neckline, matching the centre back and positioning the ends of the collar at the edge of the front opening.

SEW MAGAZINE 32

4 It can be helpful to draw in the stitching lines with a water soluble fabric pen

Cut the cord or tape to the correct length for you and position under the collar at the marked position, either side of the front opening, slanting the end slightly so that it hangs towards the front. Pin the rest of the facing around the neckline over the top of the collar, matching the shoulder seams and the centre back.

Turn the front opening back on itself over the top of the collar. Stitch all

20 sewmag.co.uk

round the neckline. Trim the seam and clip into the curves, then press the facing towards the wrong side and the collar standing up. Turn the facing at the front opening towards the inside. Understitch the back facing between the shoulder seams. Slip-stitch the facing to hold in positions at the shoulder seams.

With right sides together, position the pockets on the front and the back, then pin and stitch in place with a 5mm seam. Neaten the seam edge using an overlocker or zig zag stitch. Press the pockets away from the side seam. Pin the front to the back at the side seams and all around the pocket pieces, right sides together. Stitch from underarm to hem, pivoting at the top and bottom of the pockets. Neaten the seam edge using an overlocker or zig zag stitch, and press the seam and the pockets towards the front.

Pin the sleeves at the underarm seam, right sides together and matching the notches. Stitch from the wrist edge to the underarm. With right sides together, position the sleeves into the armhole and pin. Match the notches and note the marked position for the underarm sleeve seam. Sew around the sleeve head and neaten the seam edge using an overlocker or zig zag stitch. Press the seam towards the sleeve. Neaten the edges of the sleeve and the hem using an overlocker or zig zag stitch and turn up a 2.5cm hem on each. Press the hem fold, then stitch in place.

DRESSMAKING

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates Our exclusive patterns are now available to download in sizes

8-24

We made ours in French terry in Navy with Red Spots, £15 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

Core Skill KNIT KNOW-HOW Fabric that contains elastane, such as this one, needs to be cut out and handled gently. If any of the pattern pieces are stretched out of shape when you stitch, this will cause your garment to look distorted. To avoid this, make sure there’s plenty of space for the material to be fully supported.

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A cosy corduroy would work well later in the year

indie pattern

SIZES S-XXXL

Camargue Cowboy Shirt By Liberty Sewing Patterns Difficulty: Intermediate Avaliable as a unisex make, this stunning Camargue Cowboy Shirt is a definite crowd pleaser. Including not two, but four variations, you can make this piece completely your own; you can include pockets on the front of the shirt, add sleeve cuffs, choose front button plackets or treat yourself to some collar detailing, so there will be no risk of you blending into the background. Go the extra mile and make it from a chambray fabric for a more authentic cowboy feel. £17.50, clothkits.co.uk

picks

Fire up your machine and get stuck in... Wrap Skirt SIZES 6-22 Zina By Liberty Sewing Patterns Difficulty: Beginner Enter the Zina Wrap Skirt! One of the latest patterns from the Liberty London range, this design draws inspiration from their iconic fashion archives, but with plenty of contemporary style details to give it a fresh twist. With the option to choose between three different lengths, this style is a flattering go-to for any beginner sewist, and you can even add a ruffle detail to the hem. Suitable for lightweight fabrics, such as drape, cotton or silk, this pattern is not one to be missed. £17.50, clothkits.co.uk

SIZES 6-24

Make with a lightweight fabric for a summer dress

Cinderella Dress and Top By I AM Patterns Difficulty: Intermediate Nothing can quite beat an outfit that is stylish yet comfortable, and that’s exactly what you’re getting with the Cinderella Dress and Top. With a choice between four different sleeve finishes: sleeveless, short, with ruffles and with double gathered bands, this pattern can be customised to complement all shapes and sizes. Its loose fit means it’s perfect for warm summer days spent outside, and, as if that wasn’t enough, the dress also comes with in-seam pockets – it’s official, we’re sold. From £8.60, iampatterns.fr

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SHOPPING

Use buttons in a contrasting colour for a fun twist

SIZES 6-24 SIZES 6-24

Orchidée Top & Dress By Deer and Doe Difficulty: Intermediate For a more advanced sewist, this Orchidée Dress pattern is a gorgeous challenge. With two different versions, a short blouse with a ruffled bottom or a midi dress with a zip closure, both feature a deep V-neck, bridal buttons and statement sleeves making either ideal occasion wear that can be dressed up or down. This beautifully classic shape is incredibly flattering but also the stitching soulmate for your lightweight fabrics. From £9.50, shop.deer-and-doe.fr

SIZES 6-24

Coquelicot Dress By Deer and Doe Difficulty: Intermediate Finding the perfect summer dress can seem like a daunting task, but the Coquelicot Dress has been a breath of fresh air in our search. Featuring a sleeveless design, it has a square neck with an added flounce, a universally flattering A-line skirt that can be maxi or knee-length and an invisible side zip closure. This dress will be a joy to wear thanks to the flowy skirt, so it’s the perfect addition to this season’s wardrobe. From £9.50, shop.deer-and-doe.fr

Diana Playsuit & Dress

SIZES 6-24

By I AM Patterns Difficulty: Intermediate

EDITOR SAYS...

“We love the idea of using a different colour or print for the ruffle for a bit of added interest”

For the perfect day to night outfit, look no further than the Diana Playsuit and Dress. Not only can you choose between having short sleeves or going sleeveless, but each version features a shawl collar and a double-breasted closure that finishes at the hip. The narrow bodice panels will lengthen any silhouette for an effortlessly chic look that will suit any shape and size. Raid your stash and give a new fabric a try as this pattern suits plenty! From £8.60, iampatterns.fr

23 sewmag.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE

You’re sure to make waves with our button-down

Suzy Skirt

ESSENTIALS Fabric, 1.5m (135cm) Fusible interfacing, 25cm Buttons, seven

SUGGESTED FABRICS

Denim is just one of those fabrics that just gets better with time, and the same goes for this skirt by Posner and Posner. It’s a classic design that will see you through the years – no matter how your style grows and changes. It will also arm you with the wisdom to sew with thick denim, as well as creating in-seam pockets and buttonholes.

Structured mid to heavyweight wovens, such as denim and corduroy

SIZES 8-24

CUTTING GUIDE

Get started

Front: cut two Back: cut one on the fold Waistband: cut one on the fold Side front pocket: cut two Pocket facing: cut two 1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise stated.

Download and print the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Make darts in the back skirt. With right sides together, pin and stitch the pocket facings to the front skirt, matching the notches and keeping the top of the pocket level with the top of the skirt, using a 9mm seam.

Clip the curves and press the pocket to the inside of the skirt along the seam edge, then topstitch close to the seam. With right sides together,

CLOSE AND P U

Sew close to the skirt waist edge and at the side edge to secure. With right sides together, pin and stitch the skirt back and front at the side seam. Trim and neaten the seam, then press towards the back of the skirt. On the right side, topstitch close to the seam line.

NA L

SEW MAGAZINE 32

pin and stitch the side front pocket to the facing using a 9mm seam and matching the notches. Neaten the edges of the pocket, then pin in position at the side of the skirt and place the edge at the circle marker, folding the pocket flat against the waist edge.

Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the front skirt. Neaten the front edge using zig zag stitch or by turning under a narrow seam and sewing. Fold the front facing along the edge on both sides of the front skirt and press into position. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband.

Fold the waistband in half and sew both ends. Trim the seam and press the waistband. Matching the notches and making sure the ends of the waistband are level with the folded edge of the front skirt, pin and sew one side of the waistband. Press the seam so that the allowance is towards the folded edge of the waistband.

6 Snip a small notch into the side seam of the main fabric to mark the top of where the pocket will sit

Turn under the other raw edge of the waistband and hand or topstitch in place, then press. Turn up the hem to the desired length and press. Neaten the raw edge of the hem, then turn the front facing back towards the wrong side of the

24 sewmag.co.uk

skirt and sew along the pressed hem line to the edge of the facing.

Trim the corner and excess fabric, then turn the facing back to the correct position and press. Sew the hem in place, making sure the front edges of the skirt are level when overlapped. Make the buttonholes and overlap the front facings over each other so that the edges are level. Secure the buttons in place.

Core Skill CUTTING DENIM Denim is a thick fabric, so to make life easier when cutting out the pattern pieces, you should use a sharp pair of scissors or add a new blade to your rotary cutter. Depending on how thick the denim is, you may want to cut through just one layer at a time, and you might also need to upgrade to stronger pins.

DRESSMAKING

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates

LOVE THIS PATTERN?

Our exclusive patterns are now available to download in sizes

GET SEW DELIVERED STRAIGHT TO YOUR DOOR FOR £22.75!*

8-24

See page 56 for T&Cs

We’ve used 12oz coloured stretch denim in shade Indigo. £12.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

25 sewmag.co.uk

Maritime Moment Sail away in our nautical picks It’s time to say ‘Bon voyage’ as we steer our away to seafaring chic. So much more than navy and white stripes, the nautical look is the hero of the hour. Oceanic symbols come to mind – anchors, boats, crabs, turtles and more. As we head to the coast for our sunkissed staycations, it’s time to don outfits that take inspiration from the curvature of waves. With a beachy palette of mermaid blue, lobster orange, and sandy ivory, paired with breathable textures like cotton and jersey, you’ll be set to sail the seven seas.

DROP ANCHOR Cotton jersey knit in Navy Nautical, £14.99 per metre, minerva.com

UNDER THE SEA Red Crabs from the Deep Blue Sea range by Riley Blake, £15 per metre, lovelyjubblyfabrics.co.uk

CORAL CHIC Rose Stripe cotton poplin, £6 per metre, samanthaclaridge studio.com

Denim Dress, £29.99, mandco.com SEASIDE BLISS White Seaside Icons in cotton fabric by Makower, £12.60 per metre, fabricandribbon.co.uk

AHOY SAILOR Turtles Blue 2 Oeko-Tex Standard Cotton, £14 per metre, elephantinmy handbag.com

26 sewmag.co.uk

TEA BREAK

GET SET FOR A STYLISH SUMMER WITH PATTERN PICKS FROM

“Just because a pattern is presented in a certain way, doesn’t mean that is the ONLY way you can make it. Have fun and be bold!” y favourite seasons are spring and summer because I dislike being cold. I would rather sit with a fan and melt away on the covered porch of my house than shiver during the winter months. Many would say, just layer your garments, bundle up in blankets, or my personal favourite is: “if you are cold, you can always add clothes, but if you are hot, you just gotta be hot.” Well, I will take that deal, hot and sweaty Mimi G it is, ha! Aside from not enjoying the cold, another reason for loving spring and summer is the clothes. So, I thought it would be fun to share some of my favourite picks:

Vogue 1776 What I love: This dress is a bit structured, but I like that, and it could also change with your choice of fabrics. I love the style and the length; the front drape is beautiful, and I can see this in a bold print like some of the latest African-inspired wovens from Melanated Fabrics. What I would modify: I would shorten the sleeves for one look and maybe slash and spread to create a bishop sleeve. I would also omit the fringe. Another idea is to lengthen the skirt and drop the neckline.

Fabric choice: Summer months are for fun prints and colour, so I would make this garment in a crepe or poplin print. This would add the flowing look I need for the drape and bishop sleeve.

Vogue 1783 What I love: In my opinion it just doesn’t get easier than a chic shirtdress with a slouchy hat and some sandals. So, when I saw Vogue 1783, I knew it would be on my summer must-make list. What I would modify: I love this dress pattern just as it is! I like the shirt version best with the flared skirt and sleeves; it’s chic and sexy. The maxi version is beautiful too, but I would opt for a cleaner, fitted, short sleeve if I was creating the longer look. Fabric choice: I adore this design in white, but nobody said you had to sew just one, so I would also stitch this dress in a bold and colourful print.

McCalls 8192 What I love: I could live the entire summer in this look. I love a dress that sits away from the body, but is still flirty and cute. What’s more, this design can be modified to create a variety of looks. There is also a pleasant surprise on the reverse, as a low back is always a win for me. What I would modify: You could swap sleeves between the different styles, lengths, and details. Find Madras Plaids and more at melanatedfabrics.com

I think sometimes people forget this is an option. Just because you see a garment sewn up on the envelopes doesn’t mean you can’t mix and match the pattern pieces to create a fresh design. Fabric choice: The options are endless! Melanated Fabrics has some bold and bright prints that would be perfect. You could also use a patchwork plaid or madras plaid for fun.

McCalls 8199 What I love: Who can resist a cute top that can easily be made into a dress? Exactly! That is why I love McCalls 8199. It’s adorable and fun, not to mention having one pattern that you can make into multiple garments is always a plus. What I would modify: I am going to sew this top as is. The second style is my personal favourite, but seeing as all you have to do is add length to the bodice to create a dress, it just makes sense to stitch both versions. The first style would also make a pretty slip dress if you decided to add some length. Fabric choice: I’d love to see this design in a patchwork plaid or a madras plaid. A floral print would be beautiful too. The great thing about sewing is that you can take a pattern, mix and match pieces, use bold prints and fabrics, and truly make a summer wardrobe you love. Remember that just because a pattern is presented in a certain way doesn’t mean that is the ONLY way you can make it. Have fun and be bold.

Mimi x

To hear more from Mimi, click onto mimigstyle.com or follow @mimigstyle on Instagram.

I can’t wait to start stitching McCalls 8199 27 sewmag.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE

It’s all in the little details with our lace collared

Chloe Top

ESSENTIALS Fabric 1.5m (150cm) Button, 15mm, one Lace, 50cm or pre-made collar

SUGGESTED FABRICS Stable knit fabrics with up to 25% stretch, such as jersey

SIZES

Everyday comfort gets a pretty twist with this delicate Peter Pan collar and striped T-shirt combo from designers Posner & Posner. You can either create your own collar from lace, or simply buy a premade one since they’re so on-trend right now. Pair your versatile top with shorts, jeans or a skirt for an effortless look that will see you through the summer!

8-24

CUTTING GUIDE

Get started

Front: cut two on the fold Back: cut two on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair Neckband: cut one on the fold 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.

Download the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then print and follow the cutting guide. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the placket. Draw a line on the surface of the interfacing at the centre of the placket with a water soluble fabric pen. Neaten both sides and the bottom edge using an overlocker or zig zag stitch, or by turning under a narrow hem.

Place the placket at the neck edge of the centre back T-shirt, right sides together with the placket facing you, and pin. Stitch 5mm either side of the centre line and two or three stitches across the bottom, 1.5cm from the bottom

L IN THE DE L A TA I

edge of the placket. Cut down the centre of the stitching and snip into the corners. Turn the placket through to the wrong side of the back and press the edges. With wrong sides together, pin and stitch the front to the back at the shoulder seams. Neaten the seam edge using an overlocker or zig zag stitch and press towards the back.

Fold the neckband in half, lengthways and right sides facing, then press. Position the raw edges of the neckband around the neckline, working from the centre front to the back opening and pin in place. Open out the top edge of the placket and fold it back on itself.

Place the ends of the neckband over the top. Stitch around the neckline. Finish the edge by using an overlocker or by trimming the seam and using a zig zag stitch. Fold the placket back into the correct position. Finger press the seam downwards and topstitch close to the seam line around the neck on the right side. Slip-stitch the placket edge and neck band together at the centre back.

Make a button loop at the top of the placket on the left side using thread. Sew a button in the correct position on the righthand side of the placket. Make a button loop with doubled over thread stitched into the seam, then work tiny blanket stitches around it.

Position lace around the neck line. Take your time to arrange and pin it, clipping around the lace pattern and checking the design is symmetrical and angled around the curve. Hand stitch it into place. A purchased lace collar can be sewn onto a narrow piece of bias binding, then stitched into place.

28 sewmag.co.uk

Pin the sleeves in place, right sides together, matching the notches and circles. Stitch the sleeves and neaten the seam edge using an overlocker or zig zag stitch and press towards the sleeve. With right sides together, pin the side seams and the sleeve underarm seam, matching the notches and lining up the end of the sleeve seam.

Stitch from the wrist edge to the hem. Neaten the seam edge using an overlocker or zig zag stitch and press towards the back. Neaten the edges of the sleeve and the hem using an overlocker or zig zag stitch and turn up a 2.5cm hem on each. Press the hem fold and stitch in place.

Core Skill SEWING JERSEY A ball point needle is great for sewing knit fabrics because it has a round tip and pushes the fibres aside when sewing rather than piercing them. Alternatively, a stretch needle would also work well. Size 75/11 and 80/12 needles work best for light- to mediumweight knits, whilst a 90/14 needle suits heavier fabrics.

DRESSMAKING

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates Our exclusive patterns are now available to download in sizes

8-24

We made our top using a striped viscose jersey, £16.99 per metre, minerva.com

29 sewmag.co.uk

MY SEWING SECRETS

DebbieShore The trick to achieving a princess seam is to start either at the shoulder or armhole, then curve down to the waist. This seam is a surefire way to create a good fit around the bustline. Just remember to closely follow the pattern instructions – some will involve stay stitching, some will ask you to press the seams open and some will instruct you to press your seams to one side.

Pin the sections together along the seam line, starting at the top and bottom of the seam, then match the notches. The pin heads should be facing towards you so they are easy to remove. If you wish, draw on the seam allowance with an erasable marker or chalk.

Open out the seam and snip into the bodice side. This will ensure the fabric sits flat. Cut small ‘V’ shapes into the side seam. This will reduce the amount of material and again, allow the seam to sit flat.

Cut out your pattern pieces carefully, then transfer any markings and notches. You might want to highlight the notches in black so that they stand out.

If your fabric is slippery, you may find it easier to tack along the seam line and remove the pins as you sew. Stitch along the seam line, taking it slowly around the curve and ensuring there aren’t any puckers.

Stay stitch if required; this will prevent the curved fabric from stretching as the material is handled and sewn. A stay stitch is a short length of about 1.5cm, sewn half an inch from the raw edge. On this pattern, it is sewn between the notches on the bodice.

Press the seam open and use a tailor’s ham to keep the shape of the seam.

For more great tips from Debbie, visit halfyardsewingclub.com 30 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING

Little ones will love wearing this

Playtime Romper This romper by Vanessa Mooncie certainly has the cute factor – who could resist a puffy onesie worn on adorable little legs? But playtime is serious business for energetic youngsters, so comfort is key. That’s why this pattern is packed with practical additions, including frontbuttoned shoulder straps crossed at the back, an elasticated back waist, and snap fasteners at the inside leg for easy nappy changes.

31 sewmag.co.uk

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates Our exclusive patterns are available to download in ages

6m-2y

INTERMEDIATE ESSENTIALS Fabric Cotton facing Elastic: 6mm wide, 2.5cm wide Snap fasteners, 1cm Buttons, 1.5cm

SUGGESTED FABRICS Light-to-medium-weight wovens, such as cotton poplins, lightweight denim or gingham

SIZES 6 months, 1 year, 2 years Find measurements and fabric requirements on the template download

CUTTING GUIDE Shorts back: cut two in main fabric Shorts front: cut two in main fabric Shoulder strap: cut two in main fabric Bib: cut one in main fabric and one in facing fabric Waist casing: cut one in main fabric and one in facing fabric

Get started

Download, print and cut out the templates from sewmag.co.uk. With right sides together and notches matching, stitch the bib facing and waist casing facing together up to the small dot at the top edge. Press the seams open. Join the centre-front and centreback seams of the two shorts pieces. Sew a second row over the first to reinforce the seam. Clip the curves and press the seams open. With right sides together, sew the side seams of the shorts. Trim the seams and press open.

Run two rows of gathering stitches along the upper edge of the front and back of the shorts, by hand or using a long machine stitch, working one row along the seam line and the other 6mm inside the seam line. Pull up the gathering stitches on the front and back of the shorts separately to fit the lower edge of the bib and waist casing facings, matching the seams.

the lower edge of the waist casing. With right sides together, matching notches and the small dots to the side seams, stitch the waist casing to the waist casing facing at the top edge between the small dots, sandwiching the straps between them. Press the waist casing up, then press the seam towards the waist casing.

With the right side of the bib and waist casing facing to the wrong side of the gathered edge of the shorts, matching the side seams and the large dot to the centre-back seam, pin and sew together. Trim and layer the seam if necessary to reduce bulk. Press the seam towards the facings and remove any tacking stitches. Fold the shoulder strap along the line indicated on the pattern, right sides together. Sew along the edges, leaving the slanted end open. Trim the seam and cut diagonally into the corners, taking care not to cut into the stitching. Turn the strap right-side out and press. Topstitch close to the edges of the strap. On the right side of the waist casing facing, matching the dots, tack the straps in position with the seams facing towards the centre, aligning the raw edges with the top edge of the waist casing facing. Press under 1.5cm on

1.5cm seam allowances used throughout, except around the bound neckline.

On the outside of the garment, pin the pressed edge of the waist casing over the seam, matching the small dots with the side seam. Topstitch close to the pressed edge between the small dots. Topstitch close to the top edge of the waist casing between the small dots, then thread the 2.5cm wide elastic through the opening at the waist casing. Adjust to fit, trim the excess elastic and sew down at the side seams to secure the ends.

Turn under and press 1.5cm at side seams and lower edge of bib. With right sides of bib and bib facing together, pin and sew the armhole and top edges together, leaving the side and lower edges open. Trim the seams, snip the curves and cut diagonally into the corners, taking care not to cut into the stitching.

On the outside of the garment, pin the pressed lower edge of the bib over the seam. Topstitch close to the pressed edge and the pressed side edges down over the waist casing, then close to the armhole and top edges of the bib. Turn under and press 2cm on the hem of the leg edges. Turn under the raw edge, press and sew to form a casing. Topstitch close to the outer edge of the casing. Using a bodkin or a safety pin, insert the 6mm wide elastic through the opening in the leg casing. Adjust to fit and stitch across the ends.

Get the Book

Cut two 3cm-wide bias strips to fit the length of each innerleg edge at the front and back, allowing an extra 2cm on the length of each strip. With right sides together, pin a bias strip to the inner leg edge of the front and the back, turning under 1cm of the strip at each end.

SEW MAGAZINE 32

Stitch a whole wardrobe full of classic clothes for boys and girls with Sew Adorable by Vanessa Mooncie, GMC Publications, RRP £14.99, available online and from all good bookshops.

10 Take time to record accurate measurements of baby and match these using the size guide on the template

32 sewmag.co.uk

Sew in place, allowing a 6mm seam. Press the seam towards the binding and press the bias strip to the inside. Turn under the raw edge and stitch. Slip-stitch the ends of the bias strips to the edge of the hem. Sew snap fasteners to the front and back inside legs at the medium dots. Work the buttonholes by hand or machine in the front. Sew two buttons securely to each strap, indicated on the pattern by an X.

DRESSMAKING

LOVE THIS PATTERN? GET SEW DELIVERED STRAIGHT TO YOUR DOOR FOR £22.75!* See page 56 for T&Cs

33 sewmag.co.uk

ADVERTORIAL

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Online Fabrics

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We stock the biggest prints for little people. Our family-run business in Gloucestershire specialises in bold, bright and fun fabrics for children’s clothes and we stock a range of exclusive jersey prints that you won’t ﬁnd anywhere else.

Use Fittingly Sew 2 to create garments that ﬁt any size or shape. Use built in templates, or design garments from scratch. All pattern drafting tools are available to help you design. Print your patterns on a home printer. Design unique fabrics from your own images.

softbyte.co.uk 34 sewmag.co.uk

moonbowfabrics.co.uk

TEABREAK

Don’t

Bee A Stranger We all love the Great British Sewing Bee, and with season seven drawing to a close we decided to catch up with a few of the stars of everyone’s favourite crafty competition to find out what they’ve been up to since their time on the show. WORDS BY SOPHIE TARRANT 35 sewmag.co.uk

STUART HILLARD Since his time spent on the first series of the Sewing Bee in 2013, Stuart Hillard has continued to grow a hugely successful career within the sewing and craft world, with over 25 years of stitching experience and hundreds of published patterns to his name. He’s written three bestselling books – 2014’s Sew Fabulous, 2017’s Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts and 2019’s Simple Shapes Stunning Quilts – with another, Bags For Life, due to launch this September. In addition to this, Stuart regularly appears on Create & Craft TV, writes for crafty magazines – including our sister title, Crafts Beautiful – and designs exclusive fabric ranges for The Craft Cotton Company. You can see his latest designs at stuarthillardmakes.com

TILLY WALNES

CHINELO BALLY Dressmaker Chinelo wowed both judges and fellow contestants alike on season two with her freehand cutting techniques and eye for couture garment design. Since appearing on the series in 2014, she’s kept sewing at the forefront of her career. Not only has she written two popular books on the subject - 2015’s Freehand Fashion and this year’s brand new title, Sew Chinelo – but in 2015 she launched a couture fashion house, creating custom gowns and bespoke womenswear for red carpet events, weddings and more. Check out what she’s been making at instagram.com/chinelobally

Don’t Miss Out! Follow @SewHQ on Instagram, or visit sewmag.co.uk for the latest Sewing Bee news 36 sewmag.co.uk

P1 & 2, Jenniffer Taylor. Photography taken from Girl With a Sewing Machine (Search Press); Tilly Walnes, photography by Ellie Smith; Chinelo Bally, photography by Claire Pepper. P2 - Stuart Hillard, photography by Rachel Whiting

Designer and educator Tilly originally fell in love with sewing after taking an introductory class prior to studying at the London College of Fashion. Upon graduation she started to create her own clothing, and in 2010 she began writing her blog, Tilly and The Buttons. Her creations were inspired by the fashions of the 1960s and the French New Wave, and in 2013 the growing popularity of the blog led to her applying for the first series of the Sewing Bee. Her love of vintage design charmed both the judges and the viewers, and since appearing on the show she has launched a hugely popular range of patterns and fabrics under the Tilly and The Buttons name, as well as several online workshop programs. Tilly has also authored three books – 2014’s Love At First Stitch, 2018’s Stretch!, and 2020’s Make It Simple. View the whole range of patterns, tutorials, books and more at tillyandthebuttons.com

MATT GAGE Vintage-loving Matt made it through to the final of last year’s The Great British Sewing Bee, and hasn’t stopped since! “I first started sewing about six years ago,” explains Matt, who used to run an online vintage clothing store and works in TV transmission. “I wanted to upcycle garments for my shop, but that never materialised. So sadly, the machine went into the cupboard. However, a year later I had the mad idea to create a dress for myself for a drag party. I’m a terrible drag queen – I look like Angela Lansbury and Kenny Everett’s love child – and the dress didn’t look much better. It was a terrible fit and was really badly constructed. However, my passion for sewing had begun. I had watched the original series of the Sewing Bee on a night shift at work, and I was quickly hooked. I watched the other series in quick succession and was amazed at how the sewers could create something in such a short amount of time. I saw that they were looking for amateur sewers to appear in series five, so I just thought, why not? I got as far as a phone interview that year, but no further. I clearly needed another year at my machine, because in 2020 I made it through, and the rest is history. The first time walking into the sewing room was my favourite part of the experience. It felt rather surreal; first seeing it on TV, then actually being there. Everyone was so nice – the crew, the other sewers, and

JENNIFFER TAYLOR

even the judges! The best thing I’ve gained from being on the show is being told that I’ve been an inspiration, and that people have taken up sewing after watching us all. During lockdown, sewing saw a real boom in popularity, so I launched a website called Keep Britain Sewing to help people develop their skills at home. I began with a few tutorials and projects, but it’s grown over the year and the site now includes an online forum, a shop and even a TV station! I’ve just released five new sewing patterns which are aimed at beginners. Each one has an online tutorial. There’s also an online haberdashery so people can buy all the bits they need in one place. I will be adding to the sewing pattern collection soon, and I’m currently developing a ‘70s inspired summer dress. I also can’t wait for the theatre and performance venues to re-open. I hope the industry can bounce back and I can start making costumes again.” Visit keepbritainsewing.com to see Matt’s new range of patterns, tutorials, video guides and more.

Get the Books Sew Chinelo by Chinelo Bally, £20, waterstones.com

Your Skirt, Your Way by Jenniffer Taylor, £12.99, searchpress.com

Self-taught seamstress Jenniffer appeared on series two and has since created a wide range of patterns, books and kits under her Tailor Taylor brand. “I’ve always been a creative person, but sewing is something that I didn’t come to until later on in life,” she explains. “I was getting married and decided I wanted to make my own wedding dress. It was my first project! I’d been watching the first series of The Great British Sewing Bee whilst making my dress and a few months later my husband, Kirk, secretly applied for me. Being on the show felt like the most intense sewing course you could put yourself on, but that’s what I loved the most. It made me more confident and inspired me to follow my current career path. Currently my second book Your Skirt, Your Way is out now, and I’m really excited about it. I think the ethos behind the book is what inspires a lot of people to start sewing – making clothes that reflect your personality, but also fit you perfectly. It’s exactly what inspired me to pick up the needle and thread “To find out more, visit jenniffertaylor.co.uk

Simple Shapes, Stunning Quilts by Stuart Hillard, £19.95, cotton patch.co.uk

Make It Simple by Tilly Walnes, £25, shop.tillyand thebuttons.com

37 sewmag.co.uk

TEA BREAK

TWO YEARS SINCE TAKING THE CROWN, OUR WINNING BEE TAKES A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE

Juliet Uzor

“There’s no denying that the Sewing Bee brought about immense growth in many aspects of my life”

ecently, I received a lovely influx of messages and new followers from Japan, because The Great British Sewing Bee was being broadcast at their end of the world. Little wonder social media and the current season of the show have sent me on a trip down memory lane about my own journey on the show. From the flattering wiggle dress on episode one, to the glamorous red evening gown modelled by my cousin Maxine for the final, all I could think about was the experience and stories interlaced with every challenge set by the judges. I struggled with many of those and was pushed to the absolute limit, but there’s no denying that the show brought about immense growth in many aspects of my life. Apart from the use of fabrics and techniques which were miles away from my radar in real life, I learnt a new level of resilience to deal with criticism of my sewing and creativity; something I’d never had to deal with. This feedback from the judges

allowed me to work better at my craft and hone areas that were lacking. Not only did I become a lot better at sewing for other people besides myself, but I also learned to care more about precision and the finish of the garments I made. The support from the other nine sewers and Joe Lycett was another highlight for me. I was initially intimidated by the experience and knowledge they all had, especially being self-taught and having no friends who sewed in real life. But after every day with them, I grew in confidence and in my skills and ability; their creativity and willingness to share their gift really inspired me to become a better sewer. Walking into the sewing room for the very first time was truly momentous for me because of how much I looked up to previous bees like Lauren Guthrie, Tilly Walnes, Chinelo Bally, Rumana Lasker, Charlotte Newland and many more. I had high expectations of what the iconic sewing room would look like in real life and it didn’t fail to impress! Also, I had little to no experience working with any other machine beside my simple Brother model at home. But having the other nine contestants there, sharing the same experience was quite reassuring. I remember having a love-hate

relationship with the transformation challenges and delivering on days that I didn’t expect to, such as the episode where we transformed camping tents into doggie raincoats. I did not expect to create something half-decent but in the end it turned out to be a success. When we got to the finish line and I won the competition, I found it very hard to stay silent about taking part in a television show and winning it. My daughter, who had just started school, was such a trouper by keeping the secret till the very end! Luckily, the show was filmed during the school holidays, so I didn’t have to make up stories about being away from work. So, with the new season of The Great British Sewing Bee back on our screens, I hope to see more support and true friendships being formed in the sewing room. I also look forward to many creative projects, inspiring myself and the rest of the nation to continue sewing, advance our creativity and attempt something new.

Juliet x When she’s not busy working as a school teacher, Juliet shares her stitching story via her blog and YouTube channel, SewSoNatural.

Back to my trusty Brother machine

I learnt to take criticism to improve my skills

Sewing Bee made me a better sewer

38 sewmag.com

BEGINNER ESSENTIALS

Transform teatowels and ticking into our

l Tea towel, blue and white striped, two l Fabric: plain, 24.5cm x 61cm; striped, 23cm x 46cm l Fusible fleece, 24cm x 41cm l White buttons l Ribbon, navy blue l Cord, 5mm wide l Wooden boat

Stripy Scrap

SAILOR BAG CUTTING GUIDE l Bag top: plain fabric, 9cm x 20.5cm, two l Bag bottom: striped fabric, 16.5cm x 20.5cm, two l Filling: fusible fleece, 20.5cm x 24.5cm, two l Lining: plain fabric, 20.5cm x 24.5cm, two l Drawstring channel: striped fabric, 6.5cm x 21.5cm, two l Cord: 51cm, two

Get the Books

Busters

The lure of the ocean holds a special charm for crafters, bringing together the serenity of a peaceful palette, the whimsy of marine life and the classic lines of a blue stripe print. These simple stitchy projects are the perfect way to add a dash of maritime magic to your crafting, from Anna Ornberg’s stitched fish to Debbie Shore’s sailor bag. All aboard! Stitch a pouch bag

Sew one side of the main plain fabric to the striped bottom bag piece, right sides together. Press the seam open, then fuse fleece to each wrong side and topstitch on either side of the seam. Cut a square, 2.5cm, from each bottom corner. Tuck the short ends of the drawstring pieces in by 5mm, repeat and sew. Fold in half lengthways and press. With right sides together, centre at the upper edge of each outer bag piece and sew. Stitch the linings over the top, so the channels are trapped between the two pieces. Open out and place the sections right sides together, then pin. Sew the edge, leaving the cut-out corners and a gap of 7.5cm in the base of the lining. Tuck the channel ends out of the way so you don’t sew over them. Pull open the cut-out corners so the side and base seams meet, stitch across and turn out. Sew the opening, then push the lining inside the bag. Topstitch the upper edge. Attach the end of a length of cord to a safety pin. Thread from left to right through the front channel, then from right to left through the back one. Remove the pin and knot the ends. Repeat for the second cord, working in the opposite direction.

Coast-to-coast creations to help you make waves with your interior space. The Nautical Home by Anna Ornberg (Skyhorse Publishing, £14.99), simonandschuster.co.uk

Be inspired with this selection of favourite Half Yard summer projects. Half Yard Summer Collection by Debbie Shore (Search Press, £14.99), searchpress.com

Sew a striped fish

Clean your tea towel before sewing, then fold in two. Create a simple fish template

Garie Hind 2018

and use it to draw an outline on the towel, then cut around the edges to make two identical fish body shapes in blue striped fabric. Sew the two body pieces together using dark blue thread. Attach a button to

40 sewmag.co.uk

both sides of the face for eyes. Wrap thin blue ribbon around the tail fin and fasten into a bow, then attach to an ornamental boat as decoration.

HOME & GIFTS

LUCY SAYS...

“You could stuff your fish with lavender and pop in your drawers for a sweet smelling treat”

EWA Photography/Flora Press

41 sewmag.co.uk

BEGINNER

Fly high this summer with

Sidney the Seagull

ESSENTIALS l Fabric: plain white, cotton; pale grey, speckled; black and white, patterned; yellow l Felt, flesh coloured l Toy stuffing l Net: grey, navy and silver l Sequins: gold, two; iridescent l Embroidery thread, black, sixstrand l Heavy weight pelmet interfacing l Glue, PVA, acidfree l Elastic bands, small, clear, two l Wadding scrap

We’ve used Confetti White on Grey by Robert Kaufman. £15 per metre, sewhot.co.uk

Who knew this marine bird could be so adorable? This cheeky fabric seagull by Carolyn Letten is sure to look amazing suspended from a shelf or ceiling, adding a spot of nautical decor to your home. Complete with glimmering sequins and speckled wings, Sidney is well and truly ready for take-off, just be sure to keep a close eye on your chips. Bring back cherished memories of coastline escapades with this fabulous feathered friend!

Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk. For the main body, cut two pieces from plain white fabric and two beaks from yellow fabric. Pin the beaks in place, right side up onto the beak section of the white body,

also right side up. Use yellow thread to stitch the two inner sides of each beak. Iron on the reverse, then cut away the excess white fabric from underneath the beak. Cut a 0.5mm snip into the point of

the ‘V’. With the first seagull piece placed wrong side up, fold the sides of the ‘V’ in by 5mm, press with an iron to crease then sew the seam. Repeat this with the second seagull piece. Pin both seagulls right sides together. Stitch a 5mm seam from point A to B catching a hanging loop, C round to D catching the second loop, then from E to F. Do not sew anything between points F and A or D and E, leave open. To attach the breast, use the template to cut a breast piece from white fabric. Lay the bird in front, then fold and pin the unstitched top layer of fabric between points D and E up out of the way. Lay the breast insert in place so that the bottom edge of it matches the edge of the body, then pin in place and sew a 5mm seam from point to point. Unpin, turn the bird over and repeat, pinning the now stitched half of the breast out of the way while sewing the remaining edge from point to point. Use pinking shears to cut away all excess fabric from around the bird, cutting close to the stitch line. Turn the right side

4 5

CAROLYN SAYS...

“I love the sparkle across the wings – it looks like a ray of sunshine is hitting it!”

Why not hang the seagull from a thin piece of elastic? As it moves, the wings will flap! 42 sewmag.co.uk

HOME & GIFTS

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Thanks to Rebecca Mason for helping us name our mascot! Help us with suggestions for next month’s toy at facebook. com/sewhq

out by pulling through the gap in the top of the bird. Using the template, cut two tail pieces from white fabric and one from wadding. Layer them on top of each other with the wadding at the bottom and pin. Sew around the three long sides with a 5mm seam, leaving the short straight bottom edge unstitched. Use pinking shears to trim all excess fabric close to the stitch line, then turn the right side out by pulling it through the unstitched end. Iron and use white thread to sew the five detail lines as marked on the template by the dashed line. Insert the finished tail in between the two seagull tail flaps and pin in place so that 5cm of the length of the tail is outside the body. For the top side

6 7

of the tail, use hand stitching to turn the short seams on the body under to hide the stitching and raw edge, then use small stitches to hold the tail in place. Repeat this process to finish the underside of the tail. Sew a gold sequin to both sides of the head using black embroidery thread, securing them with black French knots in the middle. Cut two whole wings from white fabric by placing the half template on the fabric fold. Use one of the fabric wings as the template to cut two from the heavy weight pelmet interfacing; avoid folding or creasing the interfacing. Iron the adhesive sides of the interfacing onto the middle of each piece of white fabric. Snip into the edge of the fabric at

1cm intervals all the way around each wing, up to the edge of the interfacing, then fold each tab over onto the other side of the interfacing, using an acid-free glue stick to secure. Create two different fabric sections that spread across the wings. Place the first section on the fold to cut two pieces from grey speckle fabric and use the second section to cut four from black/white fabric. Use an acid-free glue stick to separately assemble the top and bottom wings so they match, then sew all just in from the fabric edges. Add a piece of silver net across two-thirds of the grey fabric and sew iridescent sequins across the inner

43 sewmag.co.uk

raw edge of the grey fabric. Cut a piece of navy net using the dotted line as the template is placed on the fold and stitch it onto the middle of the wing. Sew a piece of grey net across the whole wing but leave a border of the white fabric across the wing edge. Place the top and bottom wing wrong sides together and sew around the edges. The wings can be hand stitched in place along the spine of the seagull, in between the two loops sewn in earlier, or secured using acid-free PVA glue. Cut out two leg pieces from flesh coloured felt. Lay them on thin paper, machine or hand stitch the details, then tear the paper away and glue them in place under the bird.

stitch it · write it · share it · stitch it · write it ·

This month our Star Letter winner will receive a surprise bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva, worth £50. minerva.com

St r letter Sew bros unite!

Social

Sponsored by Minerva www.minerva.com

I made some spring tops. Linda Claxton

I made a few coffee sleeves, and I changed out the snappy purse because the old one was looking awfully shopworn. Kristine Stapelfeld

Just finished sewing the binding on this so that it was ready to gift yesterday! Rosie Lambert

A request from a friend for a fairy doll backpack, she has a zip in the back of her head to hide treasures! Hayley Hissett

What a practical design!

Seen in Made a tote bag for a friend's birthday. Katherine Bond

We love the nautical print!

Jersey top sewn with a lightning bolt stitch thanks to great advice from Sew. Twin needles, stitched hems, and the front has a pleat. Maria Di Giulio Siciliano

Say hello to Sidney!

As soon as I saw the Grace Tunic in the March 2021 edition, I wanted to make it for my partner. After the depressing and restrictive 12 months we’ve all had, the style seemed just right for the summer ahead and the Viscose Atelier Brunette Canopy Cobalt fabric looked fantastic. It also gave me two new skills to learn: understitching on fine fabric and fitting a concealed zip, both of which I have not tried before. The Grace Tunic was a treat to make and my partner loves it! Paul Waring

Chosen by you Find this adorable seagull on page

Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our issue’s mascot. “Sylvia Sidney is one of my favourite actresses, mostly because of the film Beetlejuice.” Rebecca Mason, Sew reader

Rebecca has won a year’s worth of digital patterns

Help us to choose a name for next month’s mascot at facebook.com/sewhq

Share your makes via social media @SewHQ or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 46 sewmag.co.uk

J&B SEWING MACHINES

47 sewmag.co.uk

Dear sew ...can you HELP? We’ve teamed up with new-launch magazine Make & Sew Toys for top tips on designing dolls, transforming teddies and creating super-cute characters

What can I do to help my toy stand the test of time? Especially when it’s in the hands of a messy little one!

What does it mean when a toy pattern says to ‘pay attention to the grain’? Maura Highborne

Corinne says: The grain is another name for the direction of the warp and weft threads used in woven fabric – how threads are crossed over to make up the fabric. If you cut matching pattern pieces in opposite directions on the grain, you may find that as toys are stuffed, one side will stretch out differently to the other. Cutting on the grain is important for pieces where there is no discernable 'right way up', such as the curved arm of this cute kitten. If you cut these pieces at an angle to the grain, the amount of stretch could badly distort the finished shape once stuffed, so it is important that you avoid this mistake. Although knit fabrics are constructed differently to woven fabrics, you will still need to pay close attention to the grain if you are working with this kind of material. It is important that you evaluate the grain in the same way that you would the grain of the woven fabric, as otherwise your pattern pieces may start to pucker or even stretch in the wrong areas.

Trisha Pierce Melanie says: Firstly, always make sure you are only using high quality fabrics. If you are using felt, make sure it is always 100% wool. The toy filling you use should be washable, and remember to pre-wash fabric in case of shrinkage. If you tick all of these boxes, there is no reason why you cannot regularly wash dirty toys without damaging them. To ensure durability for play and in the wash, you should always use strong polyester thread and a short stitch length.

48 sewmag.co.uk

Julie Tatchell and Amanda Middleditch photography: BBC/Ricochet Ltd/Steve Peskett

HOME & GIFTS JULIE TATCHELL & AMANDA MIDDLEDITCH Best known as 'The Bear Ladies' from the BBC’s The Repair Shop instagram.com/ bearitinmind02

Meet our EXPERTS

MELANIE MCNIECE The creator behind Melly & Me, author and pattern designer Melanie has sound advice for stitching novices. melanieandme.com

TOY BOX tools

Stuffing Always pull apart your stuffing before you use it. Add small bits at a time and push them into place using a blunt knitting needle or a chopstick for a smooth finish. Sewing needle Change your sewing machine needles regularly and always have the same thread on the spool as on the bobbin to make sure it runs smoothly.

Eyebrow comb An eyebrow comb is a handy tool to have in your teddy making kit – no, really! You can use it to tease out any fur that's caught in the seams, and to 'fluff' your teddy bears up! Fat quarters Fat quarters are a thrifty way of utilising fabrics for small toy projects and offer a varied colour and pattern choice.

Rotary cutter It’s worth investing in a rotary cutter as they make short work of pattern pieces with curved edges such as heads, and are really fast to use Buttons or Safety eyes You can choose to substitute stitched or felt eyes for buttons or safety eyes if you are making your toy for an older child.

Is there a way to ‘age up’ a newly made vintage-style bear? I also have a childhood teddy that needs to be cleaned safely. Any tips?

CORINNE BRADD Corinne is a regular Sew contributor. Watch her how-to's on YouTube’s The Crafts Channel. youtube.com/ thecraftschannel

Top 3 Pattern Picks

Treat your tot to these FREE designs at sewmag.co.uk

Sleepy Kitty

Rebecca Milton Julie & Amanda say: There are many

Harriet Hare

good methods for ‘ageing up’ a toy bear, such as plucking and shaving the hair to create balding areas at the tops of the arms or the end of the muzzle. Staining using a natural dye such as tea can mute the brightness of a new fabric. A few 'repairs' or patches using mismatched thread can be quite effective, as can only giving the bear one eye or substituting a button. Finally, try a little less stuffing for an appealingly floppy appearance. In terms of sprucing up your childhood teddy, it all depends on what he is made from and how strong or old his fabric is. We don’t recommend the use of washing machines and totally immersing the bear in water is never good for any vintage soft toy, as they are often filled with natural stuffing such as foam rubber, wood wool and kapok. Most bears will benefit from a gentle brushing and vacuuming if you are uncertain of any of the above. Our favourite and most used method is to surface clean using just the foam suds from a mild detergent which has been swooshed in warm water. Massage the bubbles into the pile of the fabric then simply wipe them away with a clean damp flannel, rinsing it after each wipe until all the bubbles are removed, then allow him to air-dry naturally.

Heart Dolly

CONNIE

LY DOL 8 steps

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Send your stitchy questions to editorial@sewmag.co.uk or facebook.com/sewhq 49 sewmag.co.uk

BEGINNER

‘Fin’k outside the box with this pod of

ESSENTIALS l Fabric, printed cotton l Wadding l Toy filling l Textile paint, black

BlueWhales

Note: Add a 1cm seam allowance after you draw the pattern onto the fabric.

These cheeky sea creatures are known to be the largest animal in the world, but they love a cuddle just as much as the rest of us! This family of whales designed by Tone Finnanger is sure to bring a smile to your little diver’s face. The positioning of the whale’s eyes makes a big difference to its personality, so try out different options with an airerasable pen before you paint them on.

Get the Book

1 You can discover more charming toys and gifts to sew for children in Tilda’s Toy Box by Tone Finnanger, £16.99,

davidandcharles.com

Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk. Fold the fabric for the fins, right sides together, with wadding underneath. Transfer the fin pattern and sew around it. Cut out and turn right side out with the wadding in the middle, then press. From printed cotton, cut out two body parts and the base. Place the two body parts, right sides together, and sew, leaving the flat bottom edge open. Using the

pattern as a guide, mark where the fins are to be fastened. Use pins to attach the fins to the edge of each side of the body, making sure they turn right side in. Stitch in place and remove the pins. Fold the base in half and mark the middle at the front. Place the whale body right sides together on the base, with the middle at the front of the base and the body aligned. Sew one side, from the middle at the front backwards to

When sewing for children, remember to check thouroughly for any pins or needles left in the fabric

50 sewmag.co.uk

the tail. Sew the other side allowing a reverse opening at the fin. Trim the seam allowance around the edge and turn through to the right side. Stuff the whale, tail first, using a wooden stick or knitting needle to push the filling in. Stuff the rest of the body well and sew up the reverse opening. Mark the position of the eyes onto the head. Dip a pin with a large rounded head into black textile paint, then stamp onto the fabric.

HOME & GIFTS

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates TONE SAYS...

“The whales are all made from washed Tilda cotton fabrics. We also used a synthetic filling, which is non-allergenic”

51 sewmag.co.uk

BEGINNER

Celebrate the seaside with our

Beach Hut Door Stop

ESSENTIALS l Fabric: canvas stripes, blue and white, red; canvas waves, blue and red; heavy cotton/ twill, 60cm square; cotton, 15cm square l Medium weight interfacing, 60cm square l Fusible webbing, 15cm square l Button l Stuffing, 300g l Dried pulses, 500g

For many holiday goers, the coast makes for the perfect staycation. Pebbled beaches, ice cream vans and historic piers conjure up nostalgic memories of aquatic adventures. This jubilant make by Chloe Hailwood well and truly brings the sunshine in and pays tribute to our favourite coastal destinations. It’s packed full of toy stuffing and dried pulses, transforming a flat nautical design into a 3D masterpiece, primed to brighten up your home.

1cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.

We made our hut from Decor Canvas in Blue Stripe, £8.95 per metre, myfabrics.co.uk

Download and print the template from sewmag.co.uk. Press fusible webbing to the reverse of all the fabrics, except those being used for the appliquéd door, window and bunting. Cut out one base, two roofs, one front, one back, and two sides. Mark the letters along the correct edges. Press

fusible webbing to the reverse of the appliqué fabrics, before using the templates to cut out one door, one window and five flags. Remove the backing paper from the door and other details, then position on the right side of the cut-out front piece of fabric. Press in place

before embroidering details to the window and adding running stitches around the door and bunting strings. Stitch a button to the door as a handle. Lay the front piece flat, right side facing upwards. Place a roof piece along a toppointed edge of the front piece, meeting up the ‘A’ edges as marked on the templates. Place the second roof piece on the opposite side, again meeting up an ‘A’ edge of the roof to the ‘A’ edge of the front. Add both the sides in this way, matching a ‘B’ edge of a side piece to a ‘B’ edge of the front, then the base along the bottom, meeting up the ‘C’ edges. With right sides of the fabric together, sew along the lettered edges. Start and stop stitching 1cm from each corner. Bring together and make the corresponding edges: for example, an open edge of a roof piece with the top open edge of a side piece. Pick up the back piece, pin, then tack to the remaining open edges to finish the beach hut shaping. Stitch around, working one edge at a time. Leave a 12cm gap along the bottom for turning through. Turn through to the right side, pushing out corners before stuffing. Fill a cotton pouch or food bag with 500g dried pulses, rice or baking beads and add into the base. Close the gap with a whip stitch.

Beach huts come in all manner of colours, so choose hues that best suit your home 52 sewmag.co.uk

HOME & GIFTS

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

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“Start and stop all lines of stitching 1cm from the edge to allow for adding in different sections”

53 sewmag.co.uk

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Embrace beachside bliss with our ESSENTIALS l Fabric, cotton: printed l Lightweight sew-in interfacing l Lightweight quilt wadding l Magnets: magnetic sheet, small neodymium l Knitting needle l Snap fasteners l Clean sandwich bags l Embroidery thread

For stockists of the Enchanted Voyage Collection by Art Gallery Fabrics, visit hantexonline.co.uk

Seaside Collection With the seaside season in full swing, Corinne Bradd has dreamt up a nautical collection that is the stuff of deep-sea dreams. This set features a reversible hat and practical poppered sunnies case, plus a crinkle starfish for babies and a fishing game that will be fun for all the family this staycation season. With these pelagic essentials, you’ll be all set to spend a day in the sunshine. The beach is calling!

Make the hat

Download the templates at sewmag.co.uk. Cut a crown, four sides and four brim pieces from both contrasting fabrics, adding a 5mm seam allowance to each piece. Snip the same from the interfacing pieces and zig zag stitch to the wrong side of one set of fabric pieces. Using the interfaced pieces, tack the bottom edge of each side piece to the top edge of each brim piece, easing the curves to fit. Sew and press. Repeat the steps with the other fabric pieces. Join the side and brim pieces of the interfaced fabric right sides together to form a ring. Check the fit, using a greater seam allowance for a tighter fit. Topstitch these seams if desired. Join the other set of fabric pieces in the same way with the same seam allowance, leaving a 6cm gap in one side piece seam. Tack and sew the crown of each hat around the top of the matching hat sides. Press the seam to the side and topstitch if desired for a neater line. Place one hat inside the other, right sides together, staggering the side seams to reduce the bulk and pin around the edge of the brim. Sew all the way around the brim, trim the seam with pinking shears and turn out through the gap in the side seam. Press and topstitch the brim of the hat with two parallel lines of sewing before slip-stitching the turning gap closed.

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FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Stitch a crinkle starfish Download the templates at sewmag.co.uk. Cut out two pieces of fabric right sides together and one piece of wadding. Layer the pieces together and pin them onto a clean plastic sandwich bag. Sew all around the shape leaving a 3cm gap in one leg. Trim away the excess plastic, clip curves and corners, then turn out through the gap. Press gently (too much heat will begin to shrink the bag), fold in the edges of the turning gap and topstitch around the whole shape. Lightly sketch the mouth, eyes and cheeks onto one side of the starfish with a soft pencil. Backstitch the features with two strands of darker coloured embroidery thread. Whip back through the stitching to smooth out the curves. Sew a spiral in the centre of each cheek or fill with satin stitch.

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Sew the fishing game

Cut several fish shapes from fabric right sides together, layered onto lightweight wadding and add a 5mm seam allowance to each shape. Sew around the shapes leaving a 3cm gap on one side. Clip curves and corners and turn out through the gap. Press each fish. Cut a strip of magnetic sheet 2cm x 5cm. Apply a little glue to one side before slipping through the turning gap and sticking to the underside of the fabric. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and slipstitch closed. For each fishing rod, cut a scrap of fabric 3cm x 8cm. Fold under the short edges and glue. Fold in half right sides together and sew down both sides. Turn out and slip a small magnet inside. Securely tie a length of DK cotton yarn to the end of a blunted, wooden knitting needle. Knot the free end several times before slipping inside the fabric bag. Gather the top of the bag around the yarn and stitch securely to hold.

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FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Make the sunnies case

Download the templates at sewmag.co.uk. Cut two pieces of fabric right sides together and one piece of wadding. Add a 5mm seam allowance as you cut and clip a small ‘V’ shape where indicated. Layer the fabric onto the wadding and sew from ‘V’ to ‘V’. Sew along the bottom flat edge. Open out the layers and match up the bottom seam with the end of the top curved seam, so the same prints are right sides together. Stitch the wadded sides together and sew the single layer

sides together, leaving a 4cm gap in the centre of one side. Clip curves and turn out through the gap. Press the top curved edge well before closing the gap with a small slipstitch and push the lining into the outer. Topstitch around the curved flap and front edge of the case. Place glasses into the case and fold over the flap for a perfect fit. Mark where the edge of the flap falls on the front with a pin before removing the glasses, lining the flap back up and fitting snap fasteners to close.

CORINNE SAYS...

“I used snap fasteners for my case, but you could always opt for a practical strip of velcro. Alternatively, you could cut a length of fabric, wind it around the case, then secure with a simple knot to finish”

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Top

Shell YEAH! We sew seashells on the seashore

Pick

Download this FREE tutorial at sewmag.co.uk Looking for a poolside project? This unique haberdashery pouch from our designer Corinne Bradd is a freebie you’ll be itching to dive in and download. Prize open your compact scallop – no shucking needed! – and you’ll discover a whole host of nifty features, including pockets just deep enough to slip in your embroidery scissors and pins, while on the other side, you’ll see elasticated strips to keep bits and bobs safe and sound. To find this bonus pattern, simply head to sewmag.co.uk/free-sewing-patterns – anchors aweigh and get started today! 60 sewmag.co.uk

More than £1,500 worth of prizes up for grabs!

Passion for Fashion

Perfect for Quilting

The award-winning fashion toy Harumika has added two new styles to the collection and you could win one of four bundles of these creative sets, including the Single Torso, Double Torso, and Bridal Gown kits. These fashion design kits include mannequin torsos, plus fabric and accessories to help inspire creativity, and appeal to budding fashionistas. Be the king or queen of the catwalk! No gluing, no sewing, no scissors. For more, visit smythstoys.com

Ideal for young sewers

The Singer Patchwork 7285Q quilting and sewing machine is perfect for new and skilled stitchers alike. With features including 100 built-in stitches, a top drop-in bobbin and automatic stitch length and width, you will be creating one-of-a-kind pieces in no time. For the more experienced, an extension table to manage large projects easily and four bonus quilting presser feet will enhance your ability to create decorative topstitching and quilting. createandcraft.com

Cook up a Storm Inspire your cooking creativity with a bundle of mouth-watering new recipe books! Dairy Diary is giving away a fantastic bundle of its four most popular cookbooks, wrapped up in a limited edition ecofriendly shopping bag – all worth £50! This tasty bundle includes: A Zest For Life, Just For One or Two, The Dairy Book of Home Cookery and Around Britain. Each one is bursting with tasty meals you’ll cook again and again! Visit dairydiary.co.uk

Worth

£500

Smitten with Mittens

Click & Win 4

Ethical knitwear brand Valentina Karellas takes a sustainable approach to urban chic. Every piece of knitwear is one-of-a kind, using surplus yarn from large factories that would otherwise have gone to waste. This eco company is offering five lucky readers a pair of 100% merino wool Sherwood Mittens, worth £45. The unisex fingerless mittens are sure to keep your hands snug and warm. Visit valentinakarellas.com

colours to win!

lucky winners

Luxury Pins

Craft Kits

Add a touch of gold to your knit kit with a fantastic set of new Pony Chazidra needles – the ultimate in crafty indulgence! Three lucky readers will win a pick-up needle for dropped stitches, a 4mm crochet hook, cable needle, wool needles, stitch holder, safety pins, a gold-plated tapestry needle and a beautiful pair of sharp pointed stork scissors – all worth £68. This set has it all! For stockists email groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

Win traditional knitting and crochet kits! Suitable for ages 7 upwards, kids will love creating stylish projects with the seven Rainbow Knitting Kits up for grabs, worth £24.99 each. Plus, four lucky runners-up will win an Easy-to-do Crochet Art set worth £14.99, including everything children aged 8+ will need to crochet a coaster, handbag, placemat, or belt. Visit toysandbears.com for more arts and crafts.

How to enter

New craft treats

1 2 3 Click the ‘Giveaways’ tab

Visit our website, sewmag.co.uk

61 sewmag.co.uk

Select a giveaway and enter your details

11 kits to win

Closing date 8th July

NOMINATIONS NOW OPEN! Welcome to the launch of our exciting awards season – time to pick your favourites! The British Sewing Awards are back, bigger and better than ever, giving you the opportunity to celebrate all of those wonderful haberdashery and sewing shops, not to mention the notions and supplies, that you just can’t live without. The British Sewing Awards is a true celebration of all the best in the industry and now is the

Readers'

Choice

Just for you As a little thank you, you will automatically receive an exclusive digital download pack filled with brilliant printables, projects and more – there is bound to be something to tickle your fancy!

chance to have your say! We’ve made it super-easy to nominate your favourites. Simply complete the coupon opposite or go online at sewmag.co.uk/awards. Once you have done this, you will be entered into our incredible prize draw and will automatically receive a bumper download pack of extra sewing resources, projects and more. What are you waiting for? Ready, set, nominate!

Sneak Peak at OUR JUDGES

JULIET UZOR

MAY MARTIN

STUART HILLARD

DEBBIE SHORE

Juliet Uzor is the 2019 winner of the hit BBC show The Great British Sewing Bee. We're also proud to say she's a Sew columnist, too! You’ll find her blogging or posting on her YouTube channel SewSoNatural.

May Martin is a former judge on BBC’s The Great British Sewing Bee and a doyenne of the Women’s Institute. She has been sharing her stitchy knowledge with the public for more than 40 years.

Stuart Hillard is a talented quilter with an eye for design, creating successful fabric ranges with The Craft Cotton Company. As if that wasn’t enough, he's also published a number of popular sewing titles.

As well as being crowned Most Inspirational Sewing Personality in 2020, Debbie is the founder of community site Half Yard Sewing Club. She's also a respected project designer, author and TV presenter, too.

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The CATEGORIES There are 20 categories in total for you to nominate your favourites in, ranging from Best Overlocker Machine and Independent Pattern House to Most Inspirational Sewing Personality.

How it WORKS We want you to nominate your favourites. Once the nominations have been collated, we will then take this to the voting stage. Don’t forget, as well as your download pack, you will be entered into our prize draw, simply for having your say.

WIN A HUGE GIN HAMPER WORTH £200, PLUS SEWING GOODIES! Five lucky winners will get their hands on a fabulous bundle of assorted goodies worth £100 each, including easy-sew, easystyle dressmaking patterns and gorgeous fabrics. This year, we've thrown in a luxury gin hamper, worth £200 too – don't say we don't spoil you!

Don’t forget you can also nominate at sewmag.co.uk/awards

Readers' Choice

Best independent pattern brand

Machines Best entry-level machine brand

Best customer service

Best all-rounder machine brand

North of England

Best quilting machine brand

The Personalities Most inspirational sewing personality

Best embroidery machine brand

Favourite sewing book 2020-21

Best top-spec machine brand

Best Independent Sewing Shop Scotland

Best sewing social star

Wales

Your Details Title..................Initial......... Surname............................ Address.............................. ...........................................

Ireland

........................................... ...........................................

Midlands South West of England

Postcode............................ Tel No................................. Email..................................

Best overlocker brand

South East of England

Events Top sewing workshop

Signature........................... Date...................................

By entering we will add you to our email database to receive emails regarding our awards, great offers, and special deals. We promise we won't share your information with anyone else and you can manage what we send you at any time by following the link to our preference center at the bottom of any of our emails.

The Brands Best thread brand

Best exhibition/event

Best fabric stockist

Best sewing blog

Best major pattern brand

Best digital learning provider

TERMS AND CONDITIONS

Best fabric cutting machine brand

This competition is open to all UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees or agents of the associated companies and their families. One entry per person (duplicates will be void). The prizes detailed in each competition cannot be exchanged for goods, or towards the purchase of goods at any retail outlet and are subject to availability. Prizes cannot be exchanged for cash, or replaced if lost or damaged. Automated entries are disqualified. Illegible entries and those that do not abide by these terms and conditions will be disqualified. The decision of the judge is final and no correspondence will be entered into. No responsibility held for entries lost, delayed or damaged in the post, proof of posting is not proof of delivery. Winners will be notified within 28 days of the closing date, a list of winners will be available in writing on request from Marketing Department, 21/23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY. By entering you agree to Aceville Publications contacting you regarding the (name of awards or survey). The Promoter will use entrants’ personal details in accordance with the Aceville Privacy Policy. This is a limited offer and maybe withdrawn at any time and subject to change. CLOSING DATE 4th June 2021

Send your completed form to: British Sewing Awards, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex. CO2 8JY 63 sewmag.co.uk

ADVERTORIAL

Abbotstone House Situated in the beautiful market town of Hawes in the Yorkshire Dales, our little shop proudly offers fabric (including Liberty) for quilting, dressmaking, etc. along with sewing acessories, kits and yarn for knitting/crotchet too. abbotstonehouse.com Call: 07921 058803/01969 667988

Sew and Fabric We are a family run business based in St Austell, Mid Cornwall. We sell some amazing fabrics, waddings, haberdashery, wool and sewing machines, we also run classes/workshops, and my husband services and repairs machines too and always with a smile. sewandfabric.co.uk

The Wee Fabric Shop The Wee Fabric Shop is your one stop shop for dressmaking fabric, independent patterns, haberdashery and sewing classes in Inverness, serving the whole of the Scottish Highlands. theweefabricshop.co.uk

Shop local

There’s no better feeling than walking into the wondrous world of fabric and haberdashery shopping! You won’t need convincing they’re one of the best places to go for some sewing inspiration!

Haberdasherdo HUGE range of haberdashery, buttons, ribbons, trimmings, fabrics, patterns, embroidery, tapestry, knitting & crochet essentials plus workshops and advice. 32A Southbourne Grove, Southbourne, Bournemouth, BH6 3RA Call: 01202428612 | haberdasherdo.co.uk

Sewing Kingdom Here at Sewing Kingdom we know that sewing and quilting are more than just a hobby. That’s why we make sure that the fabric and notions we send you are the best on the market. sewing-kingdom.com

KAREN DELAHUNTY Welcome to Karen Delahunty Sewing & Knitting Centre. A wonderful selection of quality fabrics, haberdashery, patterns, threads, sewing machines, lots of lovely yarns, knitting accessories and more. New: Ricorumi Yarns and Metler threads. Friendly, knowledgeable staff always happy to help. Visit us at 80 Warwick Road Kenilworth CV8 1HL. Call: 01926 859892 | www.karendelahunty.co.uk

SEWCRAFT Thank you to all our customers, for supporting us through this difﬁcult year and enabling us to keep trading. Call: 01793 536778 | sewcraftswindon.ltd.uk

Gather ’N’ Sew

Sew Creative

20-22 Lavant Street, Petersﬁeld, Hampshire, GU32 3EW

www.sewcreative.org.uk 01730 858020

Follow us on Sew Creative – Fabric & Workshops Pennine Outdoor Fabrics Ltd. Make the most of the Outdoors with our water resistant and breathable fabrics. Make a Dry Robe, Garden canopy, Cushion Covers, Beanbags, Awning, Tent or Tipi. Breathable Clothing fabrics include Organic Ventile® & Coated Cottons. Wide range of buckles, webbing, zips, patterns & accessories. We offer advice, samples & a friendly, efﬁcient service. pennineoutdoor.co.uk

Wonderful fabrics for quilting, dressmaking and home crafting, Janome & Brother sewing machines, haberdashery, yarn and craft kits. Our workshops give fun, knowledge and creativity to beginners and experienced sewers. You will always ﬁnd something new and inspirational at Sew Creative – a textile heaven!

Spreading a little sewing love, one day at a time, with gorgeous dressmaking & patchwork fabrics, essential haberdashery items and inspiring workshops. Visit us in Bourne, Lincolnshire or check out our website.

gathernsew.co.uk

Many of these shops are independent, family run, local businesses that offer a really personal service, so make sure they stick around!

TEA BREAK

AT HOME WITH Photography: Rachel Whiting

Stuart Hillard “I've always fancied having a go at indigo dyeing, so it's been a natural next step for me to experiment” ummer is here – my very favourite time of year for crafting outdoors! I have been known to take a table, extension lead and my sewing machine out into the garden in order to enjoy my craft whilst catching a few rays. If this isn’t possible, I’ll take my knitting or hand sewing and tuck myself under a tree to enjoy the fresh air. Sewing and crafting are both moveable feasts for me, and if I can throw in some dappled sunshine and a picnic basket, I’m probably about as happy as it’s possible to be. After a winter and spring working hard indoors,

The green dye in the fabric reacts with oxygen and turns a vibrant blue

The vast majority of denim jeans are dyed using indigo

the renovations at the farm are on track and I’m allowing myself a little ‘play-time’. I’ve even managed to claim some space in one of the barns to use for messy craft jobs! Having some space for messy jobs has sparked all kinds of thoughts: thoughts of wet felting, painting fabric and furniture restoration, but first… dyeing! I’ve always fancied having a go at dyeing fabric and I love World Textiles so it’s been a natural step to experiment with indigo dyeing and Shibori. Indigo is a natural plant-based dyestuff that’s been around for thousands of years and pops up in many different cultures. The Tuareg people of the Sahara use it to dye their distinctive blue scarves and head wraps, many traditional Kimono in Japan are dyed with indigo, and its use is widespread in much of Asia and Africa – but of course, many of us see it most commonly in our favourite denim jeans! Traditionally, the dye uses a remarkable chemical reaction whereby the fabric gets dipped into greenish sludgy water which doesn’t look very inspiring and certainly isn’t blue! But the sodden fabric is then lifted into the air and as the dye in the fabric reacts with the oxygen, a chemical reaction occurs and it turns the most vivid and vibrant blue. I’ve seen this done in India by artisans and it feels like you’re watching magic! For home use, I’m using a Rit Indigo dye kit, which works much more like a traditional dye – it’s not such a party piece as traditional dyeing, but the results are much more predictable and easy to achieve. I’ve been combining this dye with traditional Japanese Shibori techniques, which is another world of fun. There are three basic techniques to Shibori, but they all work on the same principle of creating some kind of resist and dyeing the fabric. The resist can be tied, wax resist or ‘clamped’ and the results for all three techniques are remarkable. There is enormous skill involved in creating the spectacular Shibori kimono, but anyone of any age can experience the techniques and produce wonderful results. Creating patterned cloth 65 sewmag.co.uk

in this manner is an incredibly powerful way of feeling more connected with the things we make. Although I have a barn to play in, it’s also possible to do it in your kitchen or the back garden. Inspired by my experiments with Shibori and indigo, I have designed a new fabric range for The Craft Cotton Company which launches later in the summer... I’m just in the stage of making some samples using the first ‘strike-offs’ and it’s always an exciting but slightly frustrating process. It’s exciting because I can finally get my hands on real fabric and see how it looks, sews and drapes, but it’s frustrating because the quantities produced are very small – a metre or two at the most – so it’s impossible to make all the things I want to at this stage. I want to make myself a shirt in every design for summer nights sitting under a tree sewing, but for now, I must make do with a little patchwork – maybe a traditional Komebukuro or rice bag. You can find a tutorial for a Japanese rice bag on my YouTube channel Stuart Hillard Makes and a PDF pattern is also available on my website. They are the most delightful, simple bags; perfect for showing off a precious piece of fabric or embroidery – best of all, they are very simple to create. I’ll make my small samples of fabric stretch as far as I possibly can for now, but once the full bolts arrive, the sky’s the limit!

Stuart x You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, Freeview 95, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or visit @stuarthillardsews on Instagram.

BEGINNER

You’ll be buoyed up to make this

Nautical Cushion Set

ESSENTIALS l Fabric: red stripe, white; scraps, red, blue l Cushion pad, 30cm l Fusible webbing l Iron-on interfacing l A6 card blank

Ahoy there! It’s time to slip off your deck shoes and put pedal to the metal to create Sophia Palmer’s two-step appliqué projects. The cushion is a fantastic way to add a homely touch to a coastal kid’s room, while the whale card is a stellar method of using up those odds and ends left once you’ve finished the first project. Sew a boat cushion

1 We made ours in Tilda 100% cotton in blue spot print, £16.99 per metre, minerva.com

Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk. Cut a 31cm square from white cotton, and two 20cm x 31cm rectangles from red stripe fabric. Using the templates, draw out a boat motif and your chosen name onto fusible webbing. Iron onto the back of scrap fabric, then cut out neatly. Remove the paper backing and arrange on the cotton square. Iron the shapes in place, then topstitch with blue thread. Take the red stripe rectangles

and sew a rolled hem on the longest edge of both pieces. This will create an envelope back. Lay the rectangles on top of the appliquéd piece right sides together. Pin and sew around the four sides, then turn right sides out and press.

Make a whale card

Draw around an A6 card blank onto iron-on interfacing. Cut out roughly, then iron onto red stripe fabric. Use pinking shears to cut inside the line so it’s slightly smaller than the front of the card.

Using the templates, draw around the whale and belly onto fusible webbing. Cut out and iron onto blue fabric. Cut out the designs and iron onto red stripe fabric. Appliqué the shapes in place, then add an eye and blowhole in the same way. Secure the whale to the front of the greeting. Use white card to hide the stitches inside, and trim away any excess with a craft knife.

You could keep it short and sweet with initials instead

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HOME & GIFTS

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates

SOPHIA SAYS...

“Instead of a traditional boat design, why not try something diferent, such as a fish or octopus, for the main motif?”

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INTERMEDIATE

Snorkel at the ready! Make beach trips a treat with our

ESSENTIALS l Fabric: printed cotton, 46cm x 68cm; PUL, 46cm x 68cm l Cotton or linen doily, or placemat l Embroidery thread, six-stranded: red, sky blue, sea blue, white; gold l Zip, 43cm l Tailor’s chalk pencil l Embroidery needle l Embroidery hoop

SIZE 32cm x 44cm

Swimming Pouch This zipped purse designed by Susie Johns will be firmly tucked under our arm this summer. Big enough for goggles, a towel and a cossie, the bag boasts a waterproof lining and retro-style slogan – simply find an old doily or a placemat with a pretty border to get started. You’ll also dive in at the deep end with split stitch, a versatile filling technique that’s perfect for both the quote and lighthouse motif.

Embroider the motif

Download the template at sewmag.co.uk, then print out. Position the motif centrally on the fabric. You can use a dressmaker’s chalk pencil to draw it, or create an iron-on version using a transfer pen or pencil. Place the fabric doily in a hoop, with the design positioned in the centre, making sure the material is taut but not over-stretched. Using two strands of red, fill in the words ‘I do’ and ‘beside the’. With two strands of sky blue, complete the remaining words. Work two rows of split stitch, close together, for thin line and for thicker; you will need to work three, four or even more to fill out the shapes. Using sea blue, embroider the waves; use two rows of split stitch for the upper wave and one for the lower. For the lighthouse, fill in the stripes alternately with red and white thread, working the lines of stitching horizontally across the shape. Fill in the door of the lighthouse with lines of stitching running vertically, and outline the windows in gold. Finally, embroider the curved mounds of sand, using the same colour. Remove the fabric from the hoop and press lightly on the reverse to remove any creases.

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Make the purse

Measure and cut two 34cm x 46cm pieces of main fabric and two the same size of PUL. Pin the embroidered design to the centre of one of the main pieces. Stitch in place using thread that matches the doily. Position the zip right side up on one of the lining pieces, with the edge of the tape aligned with one long edge of the fabric. Pin in place or use clips. Pin or clip a main fabric piece, wrong side up on top, matching up the top edges. With a zip foot on your machine, stitch 8mm from the edge. Open out and press. Place the second lining piece, right side up, and pin the other zip tape along the top edge. Place the second main piece on top, wrong side up, and pin and stitch as before. Open out and press. Topstitch the edges alongside the zip for a neat finish, with the stitch line approximately 4-5mm from the folded edge. Open the zip about halfway, then open out the purse, matching the two main pieces together, and the two lining pieces together. Align the seams, with the zip teeth facing towards the lining. Pin the edges of fabric together, then stitch, leaving a gap of about 7.5cm on the bottom edge of the lining. Clip the corners, turn right sides out through the zip, and push out the corners. On the opening in the lining, fold the raw edges inside and slip-stitch the folded edges together. Push the lining inside the purse.

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HOME & GIFTS

Split Stitch

Working from left to right, bring the needle up at the beginning of the line to be worked, then down a stitch length to the right.

Pull the thread through to form the first stitch, then bring the needle up through the centre of the stitch, piercing the thread.

Repeat along the length of the line. To use split stitch for filling, simply work lines of split stitch close together, following the contours of the shape to be filled.

We used ProSoft FoodSAFE™ Pul Fabric from Ab Fab Textiles, £14 per metre. abfabtextiles.com 69 sewmag.co.uk

tune in... Hosted by our wonderful designer Corinne Bradd, the Crafts channel is home to a plethora of simple online masterclasses. With no-nonsense and easy-to-follow video demonstrations at your fingertips, you can stitch along with Corinne from the comfort of your own home. Choose from tutorials on quilting, home décor, makes for baby and more, plus you’ll find dedicated playlists on topics such as sustainable sewing, too.

...and turn on! Subscribe and join the community at youtube.com/thecraftschannel

www.online-fabrics.co.uk

FOR 10% OFF USE CODE SEW10

388-394 Foleshill Road, Coventry, West Midlands CV6 5AN

Tel: 02476 687776 | Email: info@online-fabrics.co.uk

Magical ...

A mystical unicorn, made from green-hued prints. Simple shapes have been stitched together and stuffed to create a sturdy yet soft ﬁnished result. With felt and ric-rac hooves plus a cute horn, it’s the perfect plush friend to add a touch of magic to your child’s room.

Looking for sewing templates? Simply visit www.sewmag.co.uk

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BEGINNER

Make the most of your Janome machine with a

ESSENTIALS l Fabric: cotton scraps; denim scraps; cotton lining l Interfacing l Snap hooks, two (optional) l Sliding buckle (optional) l Fray sealant l Fabric stabiliser l Transparent machine sewing thread l Machine sewing thread, assorted colours

Sashiko Bag From summer festivals to the daily dog walk, this handy clip-on pouch will see you through every occasion. Create a colourful patchwork design to coordinate with the stitches, as this tutorial shows you how to use the sculpture stitch function, which is available on most Janome mid-range machines. You will also learn how to create fabulous feathers using scraps of denim – a stash-busting treat for sewers who like to make the most of their materials.

To explore the full range of Janome machines, visit janome.co.uk

Make the bag

Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk. Create a small-scale patchwork using a standard straight stitch, then cut to the size of the bag flap piece. Snip cotton fabric the same size as the flap to act as the lining. To add a buckle strap, double fold

and stitch a strip of material. Make and insert it before joining the patchwork flap to the lining, so that as the piece is turned out, the strap will be secured. Join the patchwork flap to the lining, right sides together. Stitch around the three sides using a 1cm seam allowance,

leaving the longer edge open. Trim the seams, clip the corners and turn to the right side. Press, then join the chosen stitch sample sections together to create the bag front and the bag back. Place the long edge of the finished flap along the top edge of the back of the bag, right sides together. Stitch together across the long open edge of the flap securing the flap to the back bag section. Trim and press. With right sides together, join the front and back of the bag together along the bottom edge. Trim and press. Add a fastening to the front of the bag if required; these tabs are made with double folded fabric strips. Thread the tabs through the snap clasp links, place either side of the flap on the back bag section, so that both edges can be securely stitched. Fold the secured tabs threaded through the snap clasp links inwards facing the bag back section, so that all of the raw edges are together. Alternatively, a strap could be added at this stage. Cut cotton fabric so that it is the same size as the back and front of the bag when joined together. Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the cotton. Press both the main sections of the bag and the lining, then place the main section of the bag on top of the lining section. Trim away any excess lining fabric to match the size of the bag. With right sides together, stitch the bag back to the lining along the top edge. Press the flap away from the raw edge towards the main section of the back of the bag, sandwiched between the two pieces. Stitch

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Showcase the stitching by alternating the threads and fabric colours 72 sewmag.co.uk

HOME & GIFTS

FREE TEMPLATE

Stitch Savvy

DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk /templates

‘Sculpture’ and ‘Hand-look’ style stitches are available on many of Janome’s computerised machines. These stitches are often used to accentuate design outlines and to create a mock handquilt style. They also work well as an accent stitch. Use a transparent thread for the top thread and an ordinary sewing or decorative embroidery thread for the bobbin. As you stitch the bobbin thread is pulled up onto the right side of the fabric and the stitch appears magically as if it has been created by hand. You will find the ‘sculpture’ stitch on most Janome mid-range sewing machines and as you progress through the range, you will discover even more stitches in this style.

Sculpture Stitch

Hand-look Stitch

and trim the seams so that the raw edge of the flap is enclosed, then press. With right sides together, stitch the bag front to the lining along the top edge and press. Keeping the right sides together, lay out the bag so it is flat, matching the front and back main pieces and the front and back lining pieces together. Place the finished front bag top edge under the flap matching to the back of the bag and the front join seam line. Place the flap extending from the back section flat over the top of the bag front section, so it sits on top of the bag front but under the bag front lining.

Join the front and back side seams together along the main bag section, then the lining section shaping at the corners. Leave a large gap open along one side of the lining fabric section to turn through. Trim seams, clip corners and press.Turn the bag carefully to the right side through the gap, then press. Fold the finished lining into the inside of the main bag section. Press and stitch the gap closed.

Make the feathers

Draw an outline of a feather, then position this shape onto denim fabric in line with the

grain of the threads. Apply tearaway stabiliser to the shape, then zig zag stitch down the centre vein, so that the fabric holds together once frayed. Peel away the stabiliser and apply fray sealant, being careful to only cover the zig zag stitches. Once dry, turn over and use an unpicker to gently tease out the threads from the outer edge of the feather shape. Work right up to the centre zig zag stitches on both sides. Group the finished feathers together and secure with a metal eyelet. Attach to the bag with a cord.

73 sewmag.co.uk

READER OFFER

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Stitching Book!

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35 SIMPLE EMBROIDERY MOTIFS HOW TO CLAIM YOUR FREE* Stitching book This cute and clever book will dispel those myths and inspire you to take up a needle and thread, even if it’s for the first time!

Visit giftstoyou.com/stitching and enter the discount code STITCHES in your shopping basket – easy as that! Product Code: P2751 * Just pay postage

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Patterns by Fiona Goble

*UK postage costs £4.99. Orders must be received by 5th July 2021. Offer subject to availability. Only one book per customer. While stocks last, we reserve the right to send an alternative book. We can only provide refunds for damaged or faulty goods. Please allow 28 days for delivery. Open to UK residents only.

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Cute Koala The cuddly Australian bear takes centre stage in The Make Arcade’s mini cross stitch kit. Beautifully packaged in a printed box, this fun project is suitable for both beginners and mavens. It comes with an 8cm bamboo embroidery hoop. All you need is a pair of scissors to trim your threads – et voila! £9, themakearcade.co.uk

Thread The Needle

Crafty Kit Looking for the perfect holdall to carry all your sewing essentials? Enter the Natsu bag by Japan Crafts – the ultimate slouchy accessory. The bold patchwork design offers a vintage feel, while the smattering of Japanese flowers adds an injection of Asian grandeur. £24, japancrafts.co.uk

SHOP &SEW

This dreamy pastel thread set by Gutermann Creativ is sure to add some candy-coloured flair to your creations. Featuring a selection of ten microfilament polyester threads, its Micro Core Technology ensures even, smooth seams with a finecross section and a silk-like sheen. £14.99, johnlewis.com

To welcome the warmer weather, we’ve curated must-have sewing essentials. Whether you want understated pastel tones, or a rainbow of radiant hues, we’ve got you covered!

Pastel Pink

Retro Revival

Floaty and delicate, this V-neck dress is perfect for warm, sunny days. Complete with oblique seams to assemble the skirt to the bodice, the I AM Sherazade pattern combines a graphic style with an elegant silhouette. Plus, who doesn’t love a dress with pockets? From £7.10, iampatterns.fr

Feeling groovy? The Fabric Fox’s Retro Rove collection is a surefire way to inject nostalgia into your garments. Laden with bold geometric shapes and inspired by 80s architecture and design, these prints ooze quirkiness. Baby pink, canary yellow, and teal hues combine to form a stylish art deco effect. £16 per metre, thefabricfox.co.uk

Pocket It Check out this April A-line dress from Forget Me Not Patterns. Made for woven fabrics, it features in-seam pockets and there are three different bust fit styles available. As if that wasn’t enough, the skirt has two options: a gathered and flat view, so you can trul y choose your silhouette. £10, forgetmenotpatterns.com

Sewing Stash Store all your must-have sewing tools in one place with this pretty polka dot box! The prime solution for a neat and tidy workspace, it features a removable, sectioned plastic tray for space optimisation. It’s sure to look fantastic next to your machine. £33.99, mariescrossstitch.co.uk

Let us know which product is the star of your sewing room over at @SewHQ on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, or by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk 75 sewmag.co.uk

Digital Digest

New!

Projector-friendly patterns Did you know that all of our files are now suitable for projectors? When you download this month’s designs, you’ll discover a projectable file at the back of your download pack. It eliminates the need for printing, assembling and cutting your paper patterns, leaving all the more time for sewing! For more advice, we recommend joining community Facebook group Projectors for Sewing.

Don’t forget to check out the amazing digital downloads that Sew has to offer at sewmag.co.uk

Get started

First log in or sign up to the Sew website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE. Find the tab circled at the top.

2 3

Search for a pattern by title, according to the project names opposite. Click on the search tab.

Click the ‘Download Template’ button, which you will find under the main image.

700+ pattern

Downloads!

Now that we’re out and about again, why not whip up a couple of bags for your next big shopping trip? Head to sewmag.co.uk and follow our ‘Four Easy Steps’ to download each design. LEATHER AND DENIM BAG

SEW MAGAZINE 32

Save the pattern PDF by right clicking to save on your computer, then print out (DON’T fit to the page!)

TILING DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern, as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready to join the sheets!

76 sewmag.co.uk

PEACOCK CLUTCH

YOU CAN ALSO LOCATE THE TEMPLATES FOR THIS ISSUE AND ALL OF OUR PREVIOUS ISSUES AT SEWMAG.CO.UK/ TEMPLATES

TEA BREAK

Time saving tip! Want to assemble your PDF patterns the quick way? It’s all about cutting corners...

After printing all the pages of the pattern, trim off the corners from each page, so that the cut touches the edge of the rectangle.

2 Blog of the month

With the corners cut, the pages will line up perfectly – simply match up the lines and stick down with tape or glue.

What’s Hot? Puppy Love!

More than a 3.2 million households acquired a new pet during lockdown, the majority of them dogs, and the market in accessories is booming - but why not make your own and create something truly unique? Our Dog Print Dog Bed can be made in a quirky themed fabric or in something more subtle to suit your decor, and there’s also a coat to match.

Your Dressmaking Toolkit

If you’ve managed to resist the real thing but still hanker for a cuddly canine, we’ve also got a plush pug toy, which is the perfect low-maintenance substitute. You’ll find these plus other pet-themed projects at sewmag.co.uk, along with a wide range of adorable stitched toys.

77 sewmag.co.uk

If you’re anything like us, you’ll be constantly on the lookout for more handy tips and tricks to add to your sewing arsenal. The sheer volume of different things to learn when it comes to dressmaking can be a little daunting. Even if you’re a seasoned pro with years of experience under your belt, a little reminder of the basics can’t hurt! Check it out at sewmag.co.uk/blog

template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · temp

JULY TEMPLATE TASTERS

Copy, resize or trace these patterns to make the projects that appear in the magazine. You can also visit sewmag.co.uk and download the full-size patterns for free.

Click & Stitch

1 2

To access the actual-size templates for this issue’s makes, visit sewmag.co.uk, then click on the ‘Downloads’ tab to view our archive of sewing templates.

Select one of the July 2021 project packs, then click ‘Download Template’ on the new page. Save the pattern PDF by

right clicking to save on your computer, then print out but don’t select ‘fit to the page’.

If you haven’t already registered, you’ll need to create a log-in for our website to allow you exclusive access to all of our free downloads and the masses of templates we have up for grabs.

You could easily draw out your own seaside sentiment using the spacing on this template as a rough guide Swimming Bag Deep dive into embroidery with this waterproof pouch Designer: Susie Johns Page: 68 Shown at 100%

plate tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk /templates

Nautical Duo Have a whale of a time with this appliqué set Designer: Sophia Palmer Page: 66 Shown at 100%

s ewma g . c

o .u k

Visit us online to download and print all the templates full size!

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Place on fabric fold

Embroidered Seagull This little fella has got his sequin eye on your chips Designer: Carolyn Letten Page: 42 Shown at 90%

LEG

TAIL

plate tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters

FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk /templates

BEAK

CAROLYN SAYS...

“Invest in a pair of flatnosed pliers to pull the needle through when you attach the finished wings”

er ng ent a H m ce pla

BREAST INSERT

r ge nt n e Ha em c pla

THE

sew BOOK Club

It has never been more important to create balance in your life, and if there’s one fail-safe way to do this, it’s by adopting a ‘waste not, want not’ approach and clearing out your craft cupboard! We've also picked titles for those curious about sewing sustainably, plus TV presenter Stacey Solomon shares her revolutionary ‘tap to tidy’ method.

210 TRADITIONAL QUILT BLOCKS

HOW TO SEW SUSTAINABLY

SEWING STASHBUSTERS

TAP TO TIDY

By Tuva Publishing

By Wendy Ward

By Kate Haxell

Looking to start quilting but don’t know where to begin? Try 210 Traditional Quilt Blocks – choose from a huge selection of diverse quilt block designs such as Arabic Lattice, Arrow, Winter Dahlia, Puzzle and Rail Fence. Designed for novice and expert quilters alike, this beautiful book offers a plethora of step-by-step guides to spark inspiration. Designs include full-size throws, table toppers and baby quilts. Published 1st April. £14.99, tuvapublishing.com

Back in 2005, designer and teacher Wendy Ward created her first garment out of leftover fabrics. Now, she’s here to show you how to sew sustainably – starting with your fabric collection. There’s advice on how to use your stash to create clothing, homeware and art, as well as hand-sewing projects, textile collages and some easy ways to patch and mend damaged textiles. Published 8th June. £12.99, rylandpeters.com

Ever find yourself with a little fabric left over from a major project, too much to throw away and not enough for another big make? It’s the perpetual problem which will often leave you mulling over the waste involved. Worry no more! The eco-friendly answer comes in the form of Sewing Stashbusters, which is packed with 25 unique projects, specially chosen to use up the odd metre or less of fabric. It's a great way to clear space in your sewing room. Published 20th April. £9.99, rylandpeters.com

Dubbed an organisational extraordinaire, TV presenter Stacey Solomon shares her brand-new ‘tap to tidy’ method. In her first-ever guide to crafting and organising, she reveals how making calms her mind in the midst of a busy life juggling family and work. Whether it’s a DIY dream catcher, scented pillow spray or Joe Swash (her partner’s) favourite photo frame, you’re bound to find a quick and crafty project to tickle your fancy. Published 4th March. £14.99, penguin.co.uk

on Repeat LOVE TO SEW Canadian duo Helen and Caroline make up the Love To Sew cast. This crafty pair discusses all things sewing, engages with stitching enthusiasts around the world and divulges practical hacks. lovetosewpodcast.com

What’s on our sewing room playlist this month

MODERN SEWCIETY PODCAST

SEWING FOR THE WEEKEND

Devoted to stories from creatives in the sewing industry, this podcast boasts a hefty archive of 200 episodes to listen to. Plus, you'll get tips and tricks to level up your sewing game. modernsewciety.com

Introducing Beth and Nina, the stars of this mother-and-daughter podcast. On weekdays, they’re dedicated to their day jobs, while on weekends, they sew like there’s no tomorrow. sewingfortheweekend.com

82 sewmag.com

By Stacey Soloman

Next month we’re reading… Sew Your Own Bags & Accessories

by Shufuno Mishin

Why not let us know what you’re reading? @SewHQ

HEY YOU!

You’re invited Good things come to those who follow our Instagram... (psst, it doesn’t cost a thing) Exclusive giveaways you won’t find anywhere else Latest news, trends and launches

Must tries and buys for your stash Editor-approved craft picks Bonus projects with visuals

WANT TO GET ALL OF THE ABOVE STRAIGHT TO YOUR FEED? FOLLOW US AT INSTAGRAM.COM/SEWHQ

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

May Martin’s

Sewing School

The Perfect Fit

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope or Size It Up panel opposite, then you can make any necessary alterations. Cut out the paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size. l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in a wellfitting bra you will be wearing often. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist and height.

l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Taking Your Measurements Measure while in the underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

Get started HIGH BUST FULL BUST

Height Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head. High bust Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

WAIST

Full Bust Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

HIPS

Waist Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments. Hips Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 1823cm below the waist.

84 sewmag.co.uk

YOU'LL LOVE OUR CONNIE DRESS AVAILABLE FOR FREE AT SEWMAG.CO.UK

IN ASSOCIATION WITH DRESSMAKING

Reading a Pattern The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes. Highlighting yours can help with cutting.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below). FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

Size it up Once you have your body measurements, choose the closest size from the chart below. Remember, there will be variations depending on which fabric and pattern you choose, so always make a toile first.

Bust cm

103

108

113

118

Waist cm

Hip cm

103

108

113

118

123

Back neck to waist

“When sewing stretch or jersey fabric, a must be used. A straight stitch does not extend with the fabric and will break. Although some sewing machines have a programmed stretch stitch, it is possible to create a small zig zag stitch, 0.5-0.7mm wide and 2.5-3mm long. To neaten seams, use an overcasting foot and a stretch overlock or zig zag stitch. Test stitches on double fabric, giving them a good tug to ensure that it stretches with the fabric.”

flexible stitch

Understand your fabric Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with: Warp These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch. Weft These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

Bias The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body. Selvedge The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.

Sailor Stripe Jersey, £8 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.

WARP BIAS

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

WEFT

“A striped print is synonymous with seaside chic! Choose this royal blue and white jersey to capture the nautical look” CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL

85 sewmag.co.uk

who does what... Editor Lucy Jobber lucy.jobber@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420

May Martin’s Beginner Tips be twice the size of the paper pattern piece. If your fabric is patterned, it is advisable to place the design outermost so that you can lay out the pieces in a pleasing manner to suit the printed motif.

Deputy Editor Libby Loughnan libby.loughnan@aceville.co.uk Contributors Heidi Wilkins, Melissa Hyland, Sorcha Hornett, Jodie Sheehan, Sarah Neal, Sophie Tarrant Group Editor Lynn Martin Advertising Director Owen Cook owen.cook@aceville.co.uk 01206 505939 Advertisement Sales Samantha Kirby samantha.kirby@aceville.co.uk 01206 505425 Art Director Phil Dunham Graphic Designers Gemma Eales, Cat Morton Ad Production Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Additional images Shutterstock, shutterstock.com Model Andreia, BMA Models Fashion Stylist Boo Hill Hair and Make-up Dottie Monaghan Accounts Denise Bubb 01206 505958 Subscription Enquiries /Back Issues 0800 904 7000 Website Enquiries webmaster@ sewmag.co.uk Head of Enterprise Andrea Turner Managing Directors Matthew Tudor, Helen Tudor

Most commercial patterns are printed on dressmaker’s tissue paper and have cutting marks for more than one size. Each size is identified by a different style of marking for the cutting line. When only one line is visible this indicates that this is a common cut line for all sizes. Many patterns are available with a series of variations on a garment, which allows you to select different elements to suit your style. These are indicated on the pattern, with alteration lines for different lengths.

Advice for fabric prep

2 3

In addition to starting with your fabrics laundered and pressed, it is also advisable to press out your paper pattern pieces. You can either choose to do this before you cut the individual pieces required and iron the entire sheet as a whole, or after they have been cut. Unfold the tissue paper and with an iron on its coolest setting – taking care not to burn the paper – gently smooth out the creases, so that all the folds are pressed flat. By ironing them you will ensure that the pieces lie flush with the fabrics when pinned and will result in cleaner, sharper lines when cutting. The thin tissue can be ironed on a cool to medium setting – if in doubt, press a blank section of the paper first.

2 3

It is advisable to launder the fabric, as you would the completed item, before you start cutting. This ensures that you will know how the fabric reacts and reduces the possibility of shrinkage in the completed garment. Press the fabric with an iron on a suitable setting, and lay out in a large space ready for pinning the pattern pieces to it. Fabric is usually folded selvedge to selvedge. With the material folded, the pattern is pinned to the top. Once cut, the opened fabric will

Pattern preparation

Placing your pattern pieces Place the pattern on the fabric with the printed tissue side uppermost. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold, this is indicated on each specific part. The tissue paper used for dressmaking patterns means that you can see through to

Customer Service aceville@dctmedia.co.uk Distributed by Frontline Ltd., Peterborough 01733 555161

Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys. All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

the design of the fabrics. This is essential when working with patterned materials, allowing you to adjust the placement of the pieces to ensure continuity in the motif can be achieved over joins in the garment pieces. The ‘to fold’ symbol means that the piece should be placed to the folded edge of the fabric for pinning. This will create both sides when the cut piece is opened, for example two sides of a top will be cut at once. The other pieces should be placed on the fabric with the grain arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the parallel selvedge, repeat at the other end and move the piece slightly until both the measurements are the same. Once you are happy with the finalised placement, pin carefully in place using as many pins as is necessary to secure. Most patterns offer a layout guide for the placement of the pieces onto the fabric (see below). This ensures that you lay out the pieces in the most efficient manner.

2 3

Thread facts l You should select a thread that meets your specific sewing needs. Your fabric will have an influence on the type of thread you select. As a rule the fibre content of your thread should be the same or similar to the fabric. l Heavyweight fabrics require a thicker thread and lightweight versions require a finer thread. Very lightweight or sheer fabrics are best sewn with a very fine needle and an extra fine thread. l Using the correct thread thickness may help reduce puckering, a problem frequently encountered when sewing with lightweight fabrics. l Don’t forget to consider the care requirements of your thread choice. They should be compatible with the fabric care recommendations.

Cutting tricks l Once you’ve cut out all your template pieces, keep them together in a project bag or zip lock bag so there’s no risk of accidentally losing one. l Always use a rotary cutter to achieve neat, straight cuts. l Invest in a cutting mat and keep it clean and flat when not in use. l Keep your fabric scissors sharp and use them for just fabric. l Iron your fabric before pinning your templates to it. 86 sewmag.co.uk

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Making the most of your machine l Topstitching needles have an extra large eye and a deeper groove for heavier topstitching and doubled threads. l Wedge point needles are for sewing leather and vinyl as they easily pierce the fabrics and create a hole that will close back up afterwards.

Taking the plunge Stitching expert and former judge on The Great British Sewing Bee May Martin offers her top tips on buying a sewing machine.

How to care for your machine l Always keep your machine under cover when not in use to prevent dust gathering in any moving parts. l Clean your machine regularly, making sure to unplug it first. Many experts advise against using compressed air – a lint brush or dry cloth should do. l Always use good quality machine thread to prevent lint build up. Avoid those with waxed or glazed coatings as they are bad for the machine. l Brush out the bobbin case every time you change the bobbin to help you keep on top of any lint build up. l Change the needle regularly as dull, blunt ones will affect the stitching quality. Aim to replace it after 8-10 hours of active stitching or once you’ve finished a big project. l After every use, make sure to check the needle, bobbin and thread tension so any problems can be addressed before you start another project. l Oil your machine regularly if you have a mechanical model, referring to the instruction manual. Only use a recommended oil – you’ll need just a couple of drops each time.

Choosing the right machine needle l Your machine will likely come with universal point needles, which have a slightly rounded point. They can be used for sewing most woven or knit fabrics. l Sharp point (regular) needles are great for woven fabrics like cotton and linen, as they make even stitches and will minimise puckering. l Ballpoint needles have rounded points and are designed especially to sew knit and stretch fabrics. l Embroidery needles have a larger needle eye for thicker embroidery threads, and are designed to prevent threads from breaking. l Quilting needles have a tapered point that can stitch through several layers of fabric without damaging them.

“My first sewing machine was a Bernina 807. My parents bought it for me in 1969 when I started my fashion course at teacher training college. It was very basic and only had six stitches. I pin-tucked and embroidered my wedding outfit using that machine, and I still have it in my archive today. When I’m working in my studio, I use my top-of-therange computerised Bernina. I love it! Berninas are beautifullyengineered and produce fabulous quality stitching. However, they tend to be quite heavy to carry around, so I invested in three computerised Janome sewing machines that I can easily take to classes.” What do I need to think about? Consider what you’re going to be making – do you just want the basics or do you want lots of stitches to play with? If in doubt, go for more features. As your confidence grows, you’ll want to

Scan this QR code to download our free face mask pattern

87 sewmag.co.uk

experiment more and it’s frustrating if you’re limited by the capability of the machine. Price is also something to think about. My advice would be to spend as much as you can afford, and remember the adage – buy cheap, buy twice! Go to a shop and try a few, then once you’ve found a machine that suits you, shop around for the best price. It may also be worth paying a few pounds more to purchase from a shop that will give you after sales support.

What should I look out for on a test drive? If it’s noisy to operate, it’s usually an indication of bad quality and poor engineering – if it sounds like a traction engine, avoid! Another indication of the quality of stitching on a machine is how well it makes a buttonhole. Also consider how heavy it is, whether you’re going to have to pack it away between projects, and if it has a hard cover, which is really useful for transporting. Mechanical or computerised? Mechanical machines use knobs, dials and levers to control stitch width and length and thread tension, while computerised ones tend to have menus that give settings automatically for your chosen stitch. Although the market gears mechanical machines towards the beginner or sporadic sewer, I would strongly recommend trying an entry-level computerised machine. One great advantage of a computerised machine is that it returns to normal stitch settings when you turn it off.

E PROJ EC FRE T!

Summer Sale Now On SUN-SATIONAL SAVINGS UP TO 62% OFF! Perfect for the sewer looking to stitch their own stylish wardrobe, or add that personal touch to the home with their crafty creations. PLUS two bonus Simplicity patterns every issue, worth £260+ across the year!

Every year Sew will bring you:

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▸ £260+ worth of bonus patterns ▸ 130+ timeless dressmaking patterns ▸ Interviews with industry experts ▸ Easy-follow photo guides ▸ Plus lots more...

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Next month in

DESIGNS FOR YOU!

SIZES 8-18*

Patterns worth £18+

l Create four swish-me

skirts from Simplicity's easyto-sew range l Features include a side button front, waist tie and patch pockets

l Create six essential tops with short and sleeveless options l Master necklines, from scoop and crew to V-neck and square

*Features subject to change. UK sizes. Pattern sizes may vary

You’ll love our August issue! l Prepare for staycations with our quick packing cubes tutorial l Kids will adore our poolside teddy project l Plus, discover the latest The Great British Sewing Bee news!

On sale 24th June 2021 89 sewmag.co.uk

TEN MINUTES WITH...

Wendy Ward A

lthough Wendy Ward initially discovered sewing at school, she truly honed her stitchy skillset when her dad gave her an old Singer hand-crank machine. She grew up with dreams of becoming a designer, doting over the Clothes Show in the 1980s and citing Caryn Franklin as her hero. At the age of 23, she finally took the plunge and enrolled in university to study fashion. Now, she’s making waves as a designer and teacher, with a string of craft books under her belt. We caught up with Wendy to find out more about her new book How To Sew Sustainably, and her passion for recycling, reusing, and remaking fabric. I started thinking about clothes and textile waste when I wrote the dissertation for my fashion degree in 2000. I realised just how damaging the fashion and textile industries are, and that it was a much more creatively inspiring challenge to use leftover and waste fabrics rather than a seemingly endless choice of new materials. After my degree, I worked as a designer for a well-known high street fast fashion brand and saw firsthand just how disconnected designers and buyers were from the people actually making the clothes and the materials being used. Unsurprisingly, I quickly became disillusioned and went to work for a small family-run business that was establishing a clothing brand using organic fairtrade cotton.

The very essence of what fashion represents is wasteful in the sense that it is constantly trying to make us buy more. For fashion to become more sustainable (which it will have to be) it has to accept that we all need to consume less. The industry needs to make less and make it better; as consumers, we all need to be willing to pay a little more. Clothing prices definitely don’t reflect the true cost of making them. I retrained to teach in 2007 because I wanted to be more hands-on in making clothes again and teaching seemed to offer the perfect opportunity to do that. I also felt that the time was right as more people were becoming interested in making their own clothes. MIY Workshop was the catalyst to start my own pattern brand MIY Collection back in 2012. Lots of my students were using my patterns in classes, asking for more, and wanting to take copies away from class to use again. I decided to see if a wider audience would like them and they really took off. Soon after that, I got my first book deal. I closed MIY Workshop when I left Brighton in 2019. Since I’ve moved back to Sheffield, I’ve taught on a much smaller scale at sewing shops and in my local community centre. The most important message I’d like readers to take away from my new book is to stop and think about why they’re making something and to enjoy the process of making it. I believe that if you’re not present in the moment and enjoying the process of making something, what’s the point? You may as well just go out and buy something ready-made. Sewing sustainably is a mindful practice of ongoing modification, reinvention, remaking, repairing, and interaction with our ‘stuff’. This

Why not make this zippered pouch from leftover and recycled fabrics?

process becomes part of the story of the handmade object – celebrating the old, the loved, the wellused, the well-worn and creating unique, personal pieces that reflect our history and our own personal style. Think before you sew – will you use or wear what you’re about to make? So many times in my sewing classes, I have seen beginners seduced by novelty prints and bold colours only for the resulting item never to be worn. Often the most ‘boring’ fabrics in dressmaking are those that are the easiest to wear and that you will reach for time and again: khaki linen, blue denim, black and white jersey. Think before you buy fabric – ask yourself if it’s cheap, is it too cheap? Someone somewhere will be paying the true cost. Leave no waste – keep and use your leftovers. My Minimal Waste approach is inspired by zero waste sewing, using shapes that intersect and will generate the least amount of waste possible. This results in interesting garment shapes and enables a much more flexible approach to the projects in the book. For instance, all of the garments can be made to any size, for men and women, and even adapted for children.

Quick fire round What’s your sewing tool must-have? Good, sharp scissors – one big pair, one small. Designing or teaching? They both feed each other! Favourite sewing technique? I love a bit of hand tacking! Its slows me down, it’s precise and it makes what could be a fiddly job on the sewing machine, so much easier and enjoyable. How To Sew Sustainably by Wendy Ward, on sale 8th June. £12.99, published by CICO Books.

This gorgeous t-shirt dress is part of Wendy’s Building Blocks project 90 sewmag.co.uk