JULY/AUGUST 2021
BEAUTY
MAKEUP STYLES FOR THAT SUMMER GLOW
A GUIDE TO SUNSCREENS FREEDOM & STYLE
THE ROLLERSKATING CRAZE
QUEEN OF THE NORTH
Priyanka
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J U LY/A U G U S T 2 0 2 1
on the cover 24
TREND The roller-skating craze is gliding into our ’hoods—and our hearts. BY LEAH VAN LOON
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BEAUTY Makeup looks for that magic-hour glow. BY CAROLINA ALVAREZ
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BEAUTY Your sunscreen A to Z. BY MARIÈVE INOUE
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CELEBRITY Meet Priyanka, the first winner of Canada’s Drag Race.
style & fashion 16
STYLE Welcome to the summer of skin. BY RANDI BERGMAN
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SHOPPING The ’70s are back, baby.
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STYLE Steff Eleoff’s unexpected foray into jewellery. BY ERICA NGAO
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SHOPPING Hot-weather essentials.
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STYLE Meet the talented women behind your favourite big-screen looks. BY MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN
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STYLE The history of aviators. BY MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN
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FASHION Light, fresh silhouettes for summer.
PHOTOGRAPHY, SHAYNE LAVERDIÈRE. DRESS (SALVATORE FERRAGAMO), TOP (AREA) AND SHOES (ALDO)
BY CHRISTOPHER DIRADDO
beauty & wellness 49
SHOPPING Get the best tan— from a bottle. BY JULIA MCEWEN
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BEAUTY Halle Berry on her makeup secrets. BY THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
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BEAUTY It’s time to be body-hair positive. BY GABRIELLE LISA COLLARD
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PROFILE From the NFL to the front lines of the pandemic to the face of ClarinsMen: This is Laurent Duvernay-Tardif. BY THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
features 30
PROFILE Meet In the Heights’ breakout star Melissa Barrera. BY JOANNA FOX
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TREND TikTok is now influencing teeth. BY SUMIKO WILSON
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72 every month 9 10 11 23 36 96 97 98
PUBLISHER’S NOTE JOANIE’S PICKS FRONT ROW DEBUT ELLE ONLINE SHOPPING GUIDE HOROSCOPE ESCAPE
ZEITGEIST As the world starts to open up, what happens if you don’t want to go out? BY BECKY BURGUM
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HEALTH How one writer overcame trauma through breathwork. BY STEPHANIE
PHOTOGRAPHY, TED BELTON
MERCIER VOYER
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TRAVEL Head to Prince Edward County for a dreamy rural escape. BY TRUC NGUYEN
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DESIGN The latest in decor and design news.
on the cover Priyanka is wearing a dress by Salvatore Ferragamo and a top by Area. Photographer Shayne Laverdière Creative director Annie Horth Stylist Nariman Janghorban Makeup Olivier Vinet (Folio Montreal/Make Up For Ever) Hair David D’Amours (Folio Montreal/Kérastase) Manicurist Tamara Di Lullo (Folio Montreal/CND) Wig Achaïa Select Editorial producer Estelle Gervais Set coordinator Laura Malisan Photographer’s assistants Aljosa Alijagic and Thibaut Ketterer Styling assistant Manuela Bartolomeo
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PUBLISHER SOPHIE BANFORD EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOANIE PIETRACUPA CREATIVE DIRECTOR ANNIE HORTH ART DIRECTOR ISABEL BEAUDRY ASSOCIATE EDITOR JOANNA FOX BEAUTY DIRECTOR THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU GRAPHIC DESIGNERS MARIE-EVE DUBOIS, LAURENCE FONTAINE DIGITAL DIRECTOR CYNTHIA QUELLET DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER CAMILLE CARDIN-GOYER DIGITAL CONTENT ASSISTANT ALEX GONTHIER FASHION & MARKET EDITOR ESTELLE GERVAIS FASHION FEATURES WRITER MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN EDITORIAL COORDINATOR CLAUDIA GUY CONTRIBUTORS CAROLINA ALVAREZ, RANDI BERGMAN, BECKY BURGUM, GABRIELLE LISA COLLARD, CHRISTOPHER DIRADDO, MARJORIE DUNHAM-LANDRY, FATIMA EL GAHAMI, JANE FIELDING, MARIÈVE INOUE, JULIA MCEWEN, STEPHANIE MERCIER VOYER, ERICA NGAO, TRUC NGUYEN, CIARA RICKARD, CAITLIN STALL-PAQUET, EVE THOMAS, ALEX VALLIÈRES, LEAH VAN LOON, AMIE WATSON, SUMIKO WILSON TO REACH EDITORIAL editors@ko-media.ca TO REACH CUSTOMER SERVICE 1-866-697-3776 or ellecanada@kckglobal.com ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DIRECTOR, STRATEGY, GROWTH & PARTNERSHIPS MÉLISSA GARNIER, 514-914-3605 DIRECTOR, CONTENT & STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS KARINE MARQUIS, 514-941-4067 NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR (TORONTO) MARCELLE WALLACE, 647-404-4035 SALES DIRECTOR (TORONTO) MARNI ARMOUR, 416-508-8784 NATIONAL DIRECTOR, DIGITAL EXPERT PAULA CEBALLOS, 514-791-8296 SALES DIRECTOR (MONTREAL) SANDRINE DAHAN, 514-449-7438 MULTI-PLATFORM PROJECT MANAGER VANESSA RISCH PRODUCTION COORDINATOR LINDA DESJARDINS
KO MÉDIA INC. PRESIDENT LOUIS MORISSETTE GENERAL DIRECTOR SOPHIE BANFORD FINANCE DIRECTOR SEAN REES MARKETING AND CIRCULATION DIRECTOR MARIE-ANDRÉE PICOTTE MARKETING AND CIRCULATION PROJECT MANAGER GABY BEAUDOIN ACCOUNTING TECHNICIAN EMMANIS JEAN-LOUIS ACCOUNTING CLERK GENTA CIKA
ELLE® IS USED UNDER LICENSE FROM THE TRADEMARK OWNER, HACHETTE FILIPACCHI PRESSE, A SUBSIDIARY OF LAGARDÈRE SCA CEO CONSTANCE BENQUÉ CEO ELLE INTERNATIONAL LICENSES FRANÇOIS CORUZZI SVP/INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OF ELLE VALÉRIA BESSOLO LLOPIZ SVP/DIRECTOR OF INTERNATIONAL MEDIA LICENSES & SYNDICATION MICKAEL BERRET ELLE INTERNATIONAL PRODUCTIONS – FASHION EDITOR CHARLOTTE DEFFE ELLE INTERNATIONAL PRODUCTIONS – BEAUTY & CELEBRITY EDITOR VIRGINIE DOLATA ELLE BRAND MANAGEMENT – MARKETING MANAGER MORGANE ROHÉE EDITORIAL MANAGER
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Registered user: KO Média Inc., 651 Notre-Dame West, Suite 100, Montreal, Quebec H3C 1H9. Contents copyright © 2021 by KO Média Inc. ELLE Canada is published 9 times per year except for occasional combined, expanded or premium issues. May not be reprinted without written permission. Single copy price: $5.99+tax. Full subscription prices: Canada, 1 year, $19.99+tax; for subscription inquiries, call 1-866-697-3776. Digital editions are available on Zinio, Apple News, Press Reader and Ebsco. Printing: TC Transcontinental Printing, 1603 Montarville Blvd., Boucherville, Quebec, J4B 5Y2. Distributed by Coast to Coast Newsstand Services Ltd. Publications Mail Agreement 43144516. ISSN 1496-5186
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
The Winds of
CHANGE
M
AKE NO MISTAKE: I would have preferred
PHOTOGRAPHY, ALEXIS BELHUMEUR
to live without this (cursed) pandemic. The past 18 months have been filled with challenges, pain and tremendous loss for everyone. But as this storm starts to slowly clear—at least we hope it’s clearing—I can’t help but think about how the crisis rattled our cages. And in some ways, it felt good. Are you one of those people who changed their lives and reorganized their priorities in the past year and a half? I don’t have enough fingers to count those around me who decided to make a 180-degree turn and jump into politics, move to another region, open a business, make a film or write a novel. And while not all of my friends have made radical changes, I feel like they’ve all, in their own way, rethought their daily lives. I can’t help but think it’s beautiful—like flowers growing in the snow after a blizzard. Our forced isolation allowed some of us (if we were lucky) to see our existence from a new perspective: It might be a tough, inflexible or even severe perspective, but it’s new. We couldn’t escape it—we had no choice but to stop and, as therapists say, “sit with our emotions.” Add to that new ways of working, studying and connecting with those we love (yes, more Zooms) and we quickly realized
that what kept us in our commute-work-sleep cycle was suddenly gone. In our forced confinement, we reconsidered the importance of all the things that contributed to the frantic pace of our daily lives. And, far from the whirlwind of rush hour, the office, drinks, errands and the general hustle, we were finally able to take the time to breathe, slow down and rethink our day-to-day. I was pleasantly surprised by the resilience of my team members at ELLE Québec and ELLE Canada. Together, we came up with innovative ways to continue to work, support one another and produce magazines that we are proud of. And I always have a little moment of gratitude when during a Zoom meeting I see a few of them working outdoors, under an umbrella or by the lake at the cottage. I look forward to all of us seeing one another in the office, but I hope we will find new ways to look at the nine-to-five and manage our responsibilities. Creating, brainstorming and working as a team can be done just as well outdoors in the sun or at home in our pyjamas. And if, over the past several months, we’ve been able to wind down the frantic pace of our routines for the better, then maybe, after a bit of distance, we will discover that this upheaval had a silver lining.
Sophie Banford , publisher
@sophiebanford ELLECANADA.COM
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JOANIE’S PICKS
“Romeo Super Scrunchie,” Free People ($12, freepeople.com)
“Black Smiley” napa-leather tote, Moschino ($1,615, ssense.com)
Oversized sweatshirt, Balenciaga ($1,467, NET-A-PORTER.com)
Necklace, BaubleBar ($44, baublebar.com)
Sweater, Joshua Sanders ($287, joshua-sanders.com)
“Happy” bucket hat, PS Paul Smith ($115, simons.ca)
JOANIE PIETRACUPA Editor-in-Chief
Swimsuit, Ganni ($245, ganni.com)
ALL SMILES
24-karat-goldplated-brass earring, Safsafu ($195, ssense.com)
The happy face has come a long way since it was first created by commercial artist Harvey Bell for an insurance-company campaign in 1963. A mascot for everything from grunge to raves to eternal optimism, and now an emoji, the symbol is all over clothing and accessories this summer—which definitely makes us smile.
Benefit Hello Happy Velvet Powder Foundation ($44, sephora.ca)
Socks, Palm Angels ($95, ssense.com)
“Take Out” tote bag, Kule ($229, kule.com)
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PHOTOGRAPHY, MAUDE ARSENAULT (J. PIETRACUPA) & INSTAGRAM @ARTOFMAKENOISE (GRAFFITI)
Starface Hydro-Stars anti-acne patches ($20 for 32 patches, starface.world)
FRONT ROW
July/August
TEXT, THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU, JOANNA FOX, MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN, CAITLIN STALL-PAQUET & EVE THOMAS; PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF UNIVERSAL MUSIC (B. EILISH)
WHAT’S ON THE ELLE EDITORS’ RADAR RIGHT NOW.
Power POP
After smashing the music world with her 2019 debut, When We All Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go?, full of whisper-singing and dark-as-night anthems, BILLIE EILISH is back with her second album, Happier Than Ever, set for release on July 30. Though she has ditched her toxic-waste-green-and-black hair for a softer, dreamier platinum-blond look, the 19-yearold superstar’s lyrics—like those in the first single, “Your Power”—are just as haunting. The track’s video, set against a monochrome sand-coloured backdrop, zooms in on Eilish getting slowly suffocated by a boa constrictor as she sings about a problematic relationship. billieeilish.com
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FRONT ROW D
A
SHOP
CANA
SWIM FAN NETTLE’S TALE is a favourite for its inclusive sizing and sustainable approach to swimwear. The Vancouver brand is known for its fab collabs, including limited-edition pieces made with ethical-apparel line Free Label. This summer, get your hands on a swimsuit featuring the fun “CONFETTI” pattern co-created with B.C. painter Meghan Bustard and swim in style while helping support both a local brand and an artist. nettlestale.com
TOO COOL FOR POOL Marie Le Tallec, founder of French brand THE NICE FLEET, brings sharp design sensibilities gleaned from years of working in the fashion industry to her BPA- and phthalatefree swimming accessories made from recycled PVC. Forget the loud neon colours of run-of-the-mill floatables; these hand-printed designs are all soothing waves, sleek geometrics and retro patterns.
World TOUR Rock your summer high-fashion style with the HORIZON LIGHTUP speaker from LOUIS VUITTON, which is embossed with the house’s famous insignia. Once turned on, the spherical UFO-like piece (think futuristic spinning top) is illuminated by a circular rainbow of lights, each one in the shape of the LV monogram. Available starting in June, this stylish speaker adds a touch of glam to any space, and thanks to its leather handle, you can take it with you wherever you go. louisvuitton.com
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF NETTLE’S TALE (MODEL) & LOUIS VUITTON (HORIZON LIGHTUP)
thenicefleet.com
FRONT ROW
ON THE ROAD Makeup artist and product designer Bobbi Brown’s latest project, JONES ROAD—which launched last fall in the U.S.—is all about reflecting our current “less is more” beauty culture. “I made products that I wanted for myself but couldn’t find anywhere: a hand-picked collection of high-quality clean skincare, tools and makeup that works for all ages, skin types and skin tones,” says Brown. From the Hippie Stick Everywhere Balm to Cool Gloss for your lips and cheeks, Jones Road has everything you need for the freshest, most natural no-makeup makeup look. The best part? The brand finally ships to Canada. jonesroadbeauty.com
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF GAY TIMES (PRIYANKA)
Digitally PROUD
PRIDE TORONTO, one of the largest organized Pride festivals in the world, runs for the entire month of June, and it’s marking a milestone at 40 years strong. Although this year’s festivities have gone digital, that doesn’t mean that flags won’t be flying high. The activity-packed inclusive party aims to highlight the heroes of Toronto’s LGBTQ+ communities with more than 70 virtual events—including two Festival Weekends at the end of the month and an hour-long Pride parade on June 27 hosted by Canada’s Drag Race winner (and our cover star) Priyanka— ensuring that everyone can celebrate being proud safely. pridetoronto.com
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FOR THE WINNIE Fashion’s most fabulous TV duo Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn are back at it again with the second season of their Amazon Prime cutthroat competition series, MAKING THE CUT, which premieres on July 16. We couldn’t get enough of it last year, with its international roster of talented designers and all the tough love dished out by the panel of fashion-world judges, especially the famously blunt—though surprisingly supportive—Naomi Campbell. This season welcomes new experts, and we couldn’t be more excited to see Canadian supermodel Winnie Harlow stepping into the spotlight—she’ll be in good company with designer and Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott. Here’s to more drama, tears, Gunn and, of course, high fashion. primevideo.com
Jeremy Scott and Winnie Harlow
Summer ESSENTIALS These new products promise to level up your beauty routine.
WHAT A GIRL WANTS Alix Ohlin, director of the University of British Columbia’s creativewriting program and a Scotiabank Giller Prize finalist, is releasing her sixth book, WE WANT WHAT WE WANT (out on July 27). Her 13 captivating short stories are packed with pitch-black humour and dazzling wit and range from the rescue of a family member from a cult in upstate New York to a young woman who comes home from abroad to find out that her childhood best friend is engaged to...her father. It’s beach reading at its best.
3. 1.
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1. Get soft, defined, bouncy curls with this hybrid formula; it combines the moisturizing power of a cream with the soft hold of a gel—all without that crunchy effect.
2. With its magnolia and orange-blossom bouquet brightened by notes of grapefruit, bergamot and white musk, this fragrance is both complex and playful.
3. Meet your new summer BFF, a gel-cream with grape water and aloe vera that immediately hydrates your face without making it greasy.
Kérastase Curl Manifesto Gelée Curl Contour ($49, kerastase.ca)
Nuxe Prodigieux Floral Le Parfum ($70, shop.shoppersdrugmart.ca)
Caudalie Vinosource-Hydra Grape Water Gel Moisturizer ($52, caudalie.com)
ELLECANADA.COM
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF AMAZON STUDIOS (J. SCOTT & W. HARLOW)
houseofanansi.com
FRONT ROW POWER PAIRING Elie Saab is making a foray into the world of beauty with THE POWER OF GRACE , a limited-edition collaboration with L’ORÉAL PARIS that includes an eyeshadow palette with nine ultra-chic colours, four exclusive shades of lipstick, three shimmering glosses and a volumizing mascara. We spoke with the Lebanese-born designer to learn more about the creative process behind this collab. How did you translate the glamorous, feminine spirit of your designs into this makeup collection? “We created the products by keeping in mind the Elie Saab woman, who is strong and powerful in all her femininity. It’s a way for women everywhere to access my world!”
Do you think we’ll go through a “roaring ’20s” period after the pandemic? “After
The Power of Grace collection, L’Oréal Paris x Elie Saab (lorealparis.ca)
almost two years of suffering, I think everyone will come out of the pandemic with a new vision of life. We will surely experience a period of fulfillment where self-expression will reflect our joy of living.” Did lockdown affect your inspiration? “No, because I haven’t stopped for a single day since the beginning of the pandemic. I wanted to keep my mind focused on creating. My team and I continued to work on our projects without changing anything in our schedule.”
HE SAID YES! In 1886, Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of TIFFANY & CO., launched the very first solo-diamond ring, intended for brides-to-be. One hundred and thirty-five years later, the luxury jewellery label now offers a collection of engagement rings—with round-brilliant-cut or emerald-cut diamonds—expressly designed for the men in our lives. Called the “Charles Tiffany Setting” in honour of the famous jeweller, the mount—which comes in platinum or titanium—recalls a signet silhouette and features contemporary contours to celebrate love and union in all of their facets. tiffany.ca
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NENSI DOJAKA
STYLE
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PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (GIVENCHY & NENSI DOJAKA), COURTESY OF BRANDON MAXWELL (BRANDON MAXWELL) & COURTESY OF MUGLER (MUGLER)
BRANDON MAXWELL
GIVENCHY
MUGLER
style
SUMMER OF LUST Hot days, sweaty nights and plenty of skin: Welcome to the season of SEX. By RANDI BERGMAN
ONE NIGHT DURING MY ENDLESS QUARANTINE MOVIE BINGES, I came across Jamón,
Jamón, a steamy Spanish flick from the early ’90s that melds soap drama with eroticism and...ham. It was Penélope Cruz’s film debut and the first time she had shared the screen with her now husband, Javier Bardem, which, as you might imagine, yielded some very sexy results. In one scene, the two are making eyes at each other from across a crowded club, where the music is pulsating, the sweat is dripping and the desire is palpable. It’s just the kind of moment that many of us have longed for since the ban on human contact began early last year. (Is it any wonder that “WAP” was last summer’s anthem?) In the most optimistic take on our situation, the light at the end of the tunnel is nearing—or at least a jab or two in the arm is—and that’s got us fantasizing about a lusty maskless future of touching and being touched once more. What might we wear for that titillating moment? It seems like designers have been fantasizing about that too. Consider the return of midriff flossing, a 2000s trend that features thin straps criss-crossing around an exposed toned waist. Pioneered by Britney and Xtina, midriff flossing is befitting of an early-aughts pop princess: It says “Try me, I’m new” but also “This might take hours to get off.” Lately, this risqué trend—which ELLECANADA.COM
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JACQUEMUS
STYLE
can range from a few slinky strings to a fairly complicated getup—has been adopted by pop culture’s new generation (see: Dua Lipa, Zendaya), and the look was all over the spring/summer runways. At Jacquemus, straps below cropped button-downs were displayed above long, flowing pastel skirts and wide-legged pants. At Versace, things got sexier (don’t they always?) with a subtle red crisscross peeking out from under a bra top paired with a jacket and shorts featuring seashell motifs from Gianni Versace’s “Trésor de la Mer” collection circa spring/summer 1992. At newcomer Supriya Lele’s show, ties snaked up the waist of a sky-blue skirt, and elsewhere in her collection there was a nod to another aughts staple: the dreaded exposed thong—which, come to think of it, isn’t looking so dreadful anymore now that it has sneakily returned to our consciousness thanks to JLo, Bella Hadid and the many throwback-inspired thirst traps that have populated Instagram lately. Last fall, both Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian were photographed in backless gowns (Christopher John Rogers and Givenchy, respectively) with bedazzled thongs showing above their famous derrières. And underwear as outerwear is not limited to the behind: Bra tops were knotted, twisted and draped and paired with an apron-style skirt and single sleeve at Vejas or worn à la carte at Celine and Tom Ford. It seems that everywhere you look, skin is clamouring for the spotlight, whether it’s peeking through diaphanous layers at Alberta Ferretti, sheer fabrics and strategic cut-outs at Nensi Dojaka, gravity-defying super-stretchy mesh at Mugler or the drawstring waist of a butter-yellow dress at Victoria Beckham. And it’s not just womenswear: For her spring menswear show, designer Martine Rose cast a handful of professional webcam guys to pose behind the models in makeshift vignettes that mimicked a live session on OnlyFans, a content-subscription service popular with those in the adult industry. The models lay on couches, topless and holding laptops, and one of them showed off a simple slinky camisole tucked into stovepipe jeans. “For me, this looks really believable, really sexy,” Rose told the press. When OnlyFans got its own Beyoncé shout-out in her verse on Megan Thee Stallion’s song “Savage,” it became clear that the various sexscapes of the internet are no longer isolated caverns of desire. We all want it; it’s just a matter of when—and what we’ll be wearing. 18
ELLECANADA.COM
TEXT, RANDI BERGMAN; STYLING, ESTELLE GERVAIS
L
ike Tony Soprano and Fran Fine before me, I’ve taken to wearing an oversized terry bathrobe from the moment I wake until I deign to take a reasonable mid-afternoon shower. It makes me feel like I’m on vacation, especially when it’s paired with one of my last few sets of pilfered hotel slippers (from a time when I actually visited hotels). In a sense, I am on a vacation—from reality. Even in the second year of a pandemic that has rocked our lives and our senses of style, business hours feel like mere suggestions and entire weeks fly by in a blur. Summer is providing a bit of a sexy respite, but I like to think I’m embodying the same “anything goes” approach that was expressed across runways this season, which saw at-home clothes elevated for our current reality. At Chanel, the off (off) duty look manifested as a baby-pink oversized-robe-style cardigan worn as a dress. At Molly Goddard, comfy (albeit extravagant) crinolines were paired with platform slippers done in collaboration with Ugg. A relaxed fit took hold at Dior, where shirting stretched into tunics, and gowns were as sheer and delicate as negligees. “Beautiful garments can really elevate one’s mood, even at home,” says Anya Georgijevic, a Toronto style writer and editor who recently launched Anushka, a collection of silk and linen resortwear. “Fancy caftans and robes always remind me of Elizabeth Taylor and other glamorous women of that era. It’s a look I strive for.” Each day as I putter around my place in my robe, I imagine what my neighbours across the street are thinking, and while it used to be “Does she even work?” it’s now “Who is this mysterious lady of leisure?”
1. Caftan, Thea ($895, matchesfashion.com). 2. Slip-dress, Silk Laundry ($325, silklaundry.com). 3. Pyjama set, Olivia von Halle ($560, shopbop.com). 4. Babouches, Calla ($215, goooders.com). 5. Candle, Cire Trudon ($140, ssense.com). 6. Pyjama set, The Sleeper ($345, the-sleeper.com).
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STYLE
Earrings, Isabel Marant ($345, fwrd.com)
Necklace, Cuchara ($135, cuchara.ca)
Bag, Gucci ($2,575, gucci.com)
Dress, Alice McCall ($598, farfetch.com)
Vest, Zara ($40, zara.com)
Sunglasses, Bottega Veneta ($465, modesens.com)
Ring, Loewe ($550, editorialist.com)
Socks, Soop Soop ($9, soopsoop.ca)
GET GROOVY Make room, Harry Styles: This summer, everyone is living their best ’70s life.
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ELLECANADA.COM
Belt, Auxiliary ($50, aritzia.com)
Jeans, Amapô ($280, amapojeans.com.br)
Loafers, Camperlab ($345, ssense.com)
STYLING, ESTELLE GERVAIS; PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (RUNWAY)
GUCCI
Shorts, Denimist ($215, revolve.com)
STYLE
Steff Eleoff
The pandemic led this Canadian artist to an unexpected career in jewellery design. By ERICA NGAO
LAST YEAR, FINE-ARTS STUDENT STEFF ELEOFF moved back home to Toronto after her
PHOTOGRAPHY, NELSON HUANG (MODEL) & STEFF ELEOFF (SEDONA RINGS)
graduate program in New York City had to go online. To stay creative and keep her hands busy, she would comb through thrift stores for vintage brooches and secondhand chains and then turn them into one-of-a-kind personal pieces. While working out of downtown creative hub Artscape Daniels Launchpad, she learned the basics of jewellery-making in studio workshops and quickly went from using pliers to wielding blowtorches and heavier machinery. After experimenting with lost-wax casting—the process of using wax to form a mould for metal—Eleoff began to play around with the shapes produced by the wax drippings. With their asymmetrical forms and mirror-like finishes, her pieces quickly garnered attention—people would even ask to buy rings right off her hand. So Eleoff left school to focus on jewellery-making and launched her eponymous first line, which includes earrings and a sleek hip chain befitting of our current obsession with everything early aughts. The influence of her artistic background is evident in her sculptural accessories, and the designer cites installation artist Jessica Stockholder’s boundary-pushing work, Elsa Peretti’s revolutionary bone collection for Tiffany & Co. and Shaun Leane’s surreal couture creations for Alexander McQueen as major inspirations. It hasn’t been long since Eleoff entered the jewellery game, yet her work has already been seen by millions on the likes of Kylie Jenner and singer Giveon. She’s still excited that anyone wants to wear her pieces, though; it’s the reason she’s taking steps to expand production. “Now I live and breathe my brand,” says Eleoff. “There’s nothing around me but waking up and making jewellery.”
STEP BY STEP “When I was first learning to make jewellery, I’d do behind-the-scenes videos. Even when I was just using pliers, I wanted to show the process because I think it’s very important for customers to see how much work and time are put into a piece. We see a lot of designers sewing, and that process is very understandable. But when you see how a goldsmith works, it’s next level.”
Sedona rings (left) and various rings and Drip Hip Chain (top)
ROOM TO GROW “We need more support for women
entrepreneurs. It’s really hard—especially during the pandemic—to [get] people’s eyes on you. It’s all very much a hazy time, but there are so many businesses launching and doing the impossible. I don’t think that brands should be highlighted because they get celebrity notice; they should be highlighted because they took that step and jumped. Having a studio to work out of changed my life. We need more spaces for creatives and more knowledge [that these spaces exist].” BLANK CANVAS
“If you’re not having fun making your pieces, then why are you doing it? Having a vision in mind of exactly what the final product is going to be is boxing yourself in. Whereas if you just let the process go with the flow—see what the shapes are and then play—the possibilities are endless. Right now, I’m still figuring out my language with my jewellery.” ELLECANADA.COM
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STYLE 2.
THE RING
1.
THE TOTE
Spinelli Kilcollin ($1,060, clothbase.com) -
3.
THE BIKINI
Loewe ($965, mytheresa.com) -
TOP 1O
Reina Olga ($275, farfetch.com) -
SUMMER ESSENTIALS Help beat the heat with these must-have pieces.
4.
THE TOWEL Tekla ($175, ssense.com) -
5.
THE TEE
Idea Books Ltd ($88, vooberlin.com) -
6.
THE DENIM
7.
Tatiama ($80, tatiama.com) -
THE EARRING
10.
8.
THE SANDALS Maguire ($220, maguireboutique.com) -
THE HAT 9.
THE SHADES
Chloé ($565, matchesfashion.com) -
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Maryam Keyhani ($550, maryamkeyhani.com) -
STYLING, ESTELLE GERVAIS; PHOTOGRAPHY, CLARENS PRUNYER (MODEL)
Caroline Ohrt ($280, apoc-store.com) -
DEBUT
Emanuel The Canadian R&B artist gives us some musical therapy with his first album.
TEXT, CAITLIN STALL-PAQUET; PHOTOGRAPHY, NORMAN WONG (EMANUEL) & NATE GUENTHER AND NAJAI WASHINGTON (MK.GEE), FUNNY TUMMY (ALT THERAPY COVER ART)
D
ESPITE THE PANDEMIC CHALLENGES facing the music
industry, 2020 was quite a year for breakout artist Emanuel. The R&B musician, who hails from London, Ont., was nominated for his first Juno Award, and he signed with the legendary Motown Records in the U.S., joining the ranks of music royalty. He also put out a video for his hit “Need You,” which was produced by award-winning actor Idris Elba—who’s the executive producer of Emanuel’s debut album, Alt Therapy (out June 16), as well. “The thing that surprised me most about this past year’s success is the peace and reassurance I felt from seeing the team I work with come together during a challenging time,” says Emanuel. “[They] helped me bring this project to life. It’s been a humbling experience.” The record is like a point of convergence for the artist, a result of inspiration from various directions: the strong women in his life, the artists he admires, including Kendrick Lamar and Frank Ocean, and the music of his Ethiopian roots. As has been the case for most musicians, lockdown put the stage out of reach for Emanuel, but it also made way for artistic exploration and provided a means for him to feel connected to people around the world and bring the importance and strength of those ties into focus. FEMALE FIGURES “The song ‘Black Woman’ was inspired by the
Black women in my life: my mother and all the other mothers who helped raise me; my sister and all the sisters I’ve encountered in my brief walk on this earth. It’s also about history and the stories I’ve heard when family and kin are gathered. It’s the oral tradition of remembering and honouring those stories—the song is a form of that tradition.” HEALING OVER “In creating this album, I used the power of testimonials and sharing as a therapeutic tool and saw how healing adding sonics to that process can be. The title, Alt Therapy, also refers to an acceptance and affirmation of any healthy form of therapy people may find. It says ‘We’re all trying.’ And from what I’ve found, that’s the truth.” REACHING OUT “A close friend and collaborator [shared the song ‘Need You’] with Idris Elba, and he loved it. He then approached us with an idea to reach out across the world and challenge folks to show us how they were coping, asking the question ‘What or who did you realize you truly need?’ During the early stages of the pandemic, we received submissions from countries around the world with videos of people and their loved ones, and we put all these clips together to form the ‘Need You’ music video.” ETHIOPIAN HERITAGE “My roots are a big part of my story, and the sounds associated with that part of me are present
Clockwise, from top: Emanuel; cover art for the song “Black Woman” from Emanuel’s debut album, Alt Therapy ; musician Mk.gee
throughout my music. As far back as I can remember, traditional Ethiopian music was played at all times in our home. Those tones rocked me to sleep as my mother would hum and sing blessings over me and my sister before bed.” DREAM COLLAB “I would like to work with a number of people, but if I had to pick one, it would be Mk.gee. I love his sound; I’ve been rinsing the song ‘dimeback’ from his album A Museum of Contradiction.” ELLECANADA.COM
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Cruise
CONTROL
Disco-loving ROLLER SKATERS have revived the breezy sport to bring us a cool reminder to roll with it. By LEAH VAN LOON
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TREND
PHOTOGRAPHY, TRUNK ARCHIVE
T
HE ROLLER-SKATING CRAZE cur-
rently sweeping the world has us all dreaming of grooving and gliding stylishly into the sunset. Over the past year, sales of roller skates have skyrocketed thanks to a renewed appreciation for the sport and its freewheeling fashion. The quad skates we’re most familiar with were popularized during the late ’70s and early ’80s with the rise of disco, and they’re still heavily associated with that carefree spirit. Many films of the day, like Xanadu and Roller Boogie, highlighted the allure of emblematic disco glamour and created the visual vocabulary of skate culture. Today, viral videos on TikTok and Instagram give us all the feel-good vibes we’ve been craving, with many skaters citing that era as inspiration for their enviable getups and slick style. Heather Graham as Roller Girl in Boogie Nights, Madonna at the roller disco in her video for “Sorry,” Emma Corin wheeling around Buckingham Palace as Princess Diana in the hit series The Crown... Roller skating is referenced in contemporary pop culture again and again and has long been a favourite for ramping up themes of youth, nostalgia and freedom of movement. In an episode of Euphoria, Zendaya’s Rue and her friends hit the local roller rink, which is flooded with lights, colour and fleeting teenage liberation. Shortly after filming the season, the actor’s fashion collaboration with designer Tommy Hilfiger debuted, and a group of roller skaters in full disco glam—quintessential glitter jumpsuits and flowing fabrics—warmed up the crowd before the runway show with a flashback to the salad days of Studio 54. Celebrated ’70s models like Pat Cleveland and Beverly Johnson brought authenticity to the atmosphere, and legendary musician Grace Jones closed the show with her own club hit “Pull Up to the Bumper.” With performance venues closed during the pandemic, the sport found its way into a livestream event last November hosted by Dua Lipa to promote her album Future Nostalgia. The online concert, titled Studio 2054, was a star-studded lineup that included FKA twigs performing in thigh-high roller-skate heels backed by a crowd of skaters mirroring the dancers in the video for Lipa’s disco anthem “Cool.” Lipa even sported a pair of rainbow-coloured high-heeled roller skates for the 2020 Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras afterparty just before much of the world locked down. While high-heeled roller skates might seem like a specialty one-off, consider that multi-hyphenate designer, hula-hoop record holder and dancer Marawa Wamp (a.k.a. “Marawa the
Amazing”) has been designing her own versions in California since well before they hit mainstream celebrity culture. With a block heel and the four wheels of the traditional quad skate, these glamorous pumps are perfect for a less athletic and more fashionable take on the sport. Wamp’s line, Paradise, has everything you need to start your roller-skating adventures, including disco-worthy unitards and sparkly high-heeled skates. For those thinking of giving this white-hot sport a whirl, look no further than social media, where cool-girl skater Oumi Janta has been swaying and styling her way into our hearts. The Berlin resident was drawn to skating six years ago after attending a roller-disco party and being inspired by the diversity of people joining in on the fun. Watching her gliding along on Instagram is instantly soothing—it sparks nostalgia and gives non-skaters the confidence to lace up, which is probably why her followers number close to a million. She even teaches classes on how to emulate her signature glide-walking style. Regardless of where roller skating is headed, it will continue to be a lighthearted means of self-expression—one that allows a freedom of both movement and style. Even if you don’t have the wheels, you can still partake in the sport’s uncomplicated spirit and embrace the disco beat—and the fashion.
Over the past year, sales of roller skates have skyrocketed thanks to a renewed appreciation for the sport and its freewheeling fashion.
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From Fabric to
FILM
Meet some of the talented WOMEN who create the COSTUMES that bring cinematic CHARACTERS to life, one stitch at a time. By MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN
then there are some that make a lasting impression. They have that unique ability to break free from the screen and live on in our collective memory and in cinematic history. Take Marilyn Monroe’s white dress in The Seven Year Itch, flying up over a subway grate to reveal the star’s gams, or Ursula Andress’ bikini in Dr. No, which caused sales of the scandalous swimsuit to skyrocket after the film was released in 1962. More recently, there were Zendaya’s two striking looks in Malcolm & Marie and the yellow Hawaiian shirt Brad Pitt donned in Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time...in Hollywood—a throwback to one worn 23 years earlier by Leonardo DiCaprio in Romeo + Juliet.
The modern adaptation of Shakespeare’s famous play was director Baz Luhrmann’s second film, and it made waves when it was released in 1996. Viewers applauded its hyper-stylized “Verona Beach” and the performances by two relative unknowns: DiCaprio, as Romeo, and Claire Danes, as the innocent Juliet. But audiences also fawned over the striking costumes, which were the skilled handiwork of Kym Barrett. The Australian costume designer conceptualized the wardrobes of the two rival clans down to the smallest details. The Montagues favoured colourful, flashy clothing, while the Capulets dressed solely in red and black; the Montagues preferred buttons, whereas the Capulets sported zippers. The
Zendaya and John David Washington in Malcolm & Marie
PHOTOGRAPHY, NETFLIX (MALCOLM & MARIE ) & ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (ROMEO + JULIET )
SOME COSTUMES are forgotten as soon as the credits roll, but
FASHION star-crossed lovers, however, stood out from their families thanks in part to Barrett, whose vision helped bring the couple to life, infusing them with depth and nuance, piece by piece. “You learn a lot about a character by being interested in their clothing and the way they wear it,” explains Sandy Powell, who has won three Oscars for Best Costume Design for her work on the sets of Shakespeare in Love, The Aviator and The Young Victoria. Onscreen, a single outfit can reveal details like the personality, social background, culture, age and profession of its wearer, but a single mistake can make a film’s magic evaporate. “It’s a constant search for truth,” says costume designer Renée April. “The characters—even the extras—have to be appropriate.” Originally from Rivière-du-Loup, Que., April has worked behind the scenes on more than 35 productions alongside renowned directors including Jean-Jacques Annaud, Darren Aronofsky and Denis Villeneuve. Over the course of her career, she has worked on all sorts of projects, from science-fiction movies like Rise of the Planet of the Apes and Blade Runner 2049 to George Clooney’s spy film Confessions of a Dangerous Mind. “I start from the script; I do a lot of research and of course I talk to the director about the characters before I start designing costumes,” she says. “For smaller roles, I imagine their lives, even if they only have one line. It’s a real anthropological job. Then I meet with the actors, who are often working on other films, to take their measurements, and if I’m really lucky, I can start the fittings two weeks before shooting.” According to April, that step is when the magic happens and the character comes to life, but it’s also when she sees any mistakes she has made. “It’s important to acknowledge [the mistakes], especially since it often helps build trust with the actor,” says April. “Above all, actors get a say, and sometimes they have a different idea than the director. You have to compromise—that’s how the design happens.”
Amy Adams in Arrival
For Blade Runner 2049, the Villeneuve-directed sequel to Ridley Scott’s cult film, April created 15 identical coats for Ryan Gosling (and his stuntman) so they’d be ready if one got damaged during filming. In The Day After Tomorrow, she had to plan duplicate costumes for the leads and supporting characters in the apocalyptic-climate-disaster drama so they’d always have extra—and dry—outfits on hand, which meant thousands of pieces of clothing. “In general, I design the costumes for the leads and rent ones for the extras, depending on the time and place of the story,” says April. The bill can add up quickly: A ballroom scene can easily cost $100,000, and the amount of work behind it is just as hefty. After the success of Romeo + Juliet, Barrett received a constant stream of contracts, notably for the Matrix trilogy. More recently, she worked on The Amazing Spider-Man and Us, the horror film from the genre’s new master, Jordan Peele. When
Leonardo DiCaprio (centre) in Romeo + Juliet
Ryan Gosling in Blade Runner 2049
she describes her job, you can imagine her as an orchestra conductor, masterfully leading her global team of artisans, shoe designers and weavers (whom she won’t necessarily meet in person) in the design of costumes and accessories, down to the smallest jewel. “We try to make them look as good as possible, even for a movie with special effects, because you never know when there will be a close-up,” says Barrett. “It’s an amazing job, but when you sign a contract, you do it in blood. You give up your social life, and you work 15 hours a day, six or seven days a week. You have to love it with all your heart.” At just over 60 years old, April, like many of her costume-making friends, is in higher demand than ever. Still, Barrett dislikes the fact that the costume department (often 28
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run by women) is generally seen as less important than other parts of the production, and Powell agrees. “A costume designer’s salary is definitely not as high as [that of] a production designer, who for some reason is held in higher esteem in the film-industry hierarchy,” she says. “This inequality, just like the lack of inclusiveness, needs to be addressed.” Powell sees the problem as being left over from a time when production designers were almost exclusively men while costume designers were traditionally women. So the next time you’re at the movies and you’re admiring what the actors are wearing or the details of their clothing, think of all the brilliant artists behind the scenes, working in the shadows.
PHOTOGRAPHY, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
“IT’S AN AMAZING JOB, BUT WHEN YOU SIGN A CONTRACT, YOU DO IT IN BLOOD. YOU GIVE UP YOUR SOCIAL LIFE, AND YOU WORK 15 HOURS A DAY, SIX OR SEVEN DAYS A WEEK. YOU HAVE TO LOVE IT WITH ALL YOUR HEART.”
STYLE
Aviators With their cult following and 85-year history, these iconic sunglasses are the accessory of the season. By MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN
PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY (G. STEINEM) & INSTAGRAM @THOMBROWNE (THOM BROWNE)
A
VIATOR SUNGLASSES, known for their distinct double bridge and teardrop-shaped lenses, are so timeless, they’re basically the eyewear equivalent of sailor stripes. And while over the decades they’ve been seen on everyone from feminist Gloria Steinem (in the 1970s) to Tom Cruise (in Top Gun), these days they’re seducing celebrities like Jennifer Aniston, JLo and Bella Hadid. The idea of eye protection goes back to Emperor Nero, who is said to have watched gladiator fights through an emerald stone so that the sun wouldn’t damage his eyes. The Inuit have been making “snow goggles” to protect their eyes from the sun’s harsh reflection for centuries, carving headbands out of wood, bone or walrus ivory and adding one or more horizontal slits to see through. The aristocratic doges who once ruled Venice wore early versions of sunglasses 400 years ago. Made with neodymium, the lenses were capable of blocking UV rays—long before scientists discovered, in 1870, what UV rays are. And while in 1752, an English optician by the name of James Ayscough offered his customers blue- or green-tinted specs to improve their vision, it wasn’t until 1929, in Atlantic City, that the first sunglasses as we know them today appeared, courtesy of Sam Foster and his company, Foster Grant. In the early 1930s, famed American aviator John Macready commissioned Bausch & Lomb to design sunglasses that would protect the eyes of his fellow U.S. Air Force pilots during flights. In 1936, the company released a model with dark-green convex lenses that reduced glare at high altitudes without restricting the wearer’s field of vision—mission accomplished. Bausch & Lomb, however, saw the potential value of the innovative accessory. A year later, it launched Ray-Ban—short for “ray banished,” as in “to banish the sun’s rays”—to market its new model, called the Aviator. Early fans included General Douglas MacArthur, who popularized
From top: Thom Browne spring/summer 2021; Gloria Steinem wearing her famous aviators
the style when his troops landed in the Philippines in 1944, as well as Elvis Presley, Paul McCartney, Bianca Jagger and David Bowie. Now, almost 85 years after their debut, aviators are back in service for spring/summer 2021. Tom Ford’s version swaps in an acetate frame for the metal rods of the original Ray-Ban model, while Max Mara and Fendi had fun with the proportions, coming out with XL lenses that look like UFOs. Meanwhile, Donatella Versace, queen of extravagance, boldly designed her light-blocking accessory in sunny yellow. In moving away from tradition, this summer’s neo-aviators are hotter than ever. ELLECANADA.COM
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PROFILE
Summer HIGH
Lin-Manuel Miranda’s musical motion picture In the Heights is the cinematic antidote everyone needs right now. We spoke with MELISSA BARRERA, one of the film’s breakout stars, about landing the part, the Latinx community and how the timing of this release couldn’t be better.
HERE’S THE TRUTH: I DON’T LIKE MUSICALS. Even as a child,
I was never drawn to the genre. I hated The Sound of Music. (I said it!) I’ve always avoided anything with singing—I never even saw La La Land, although Ryan Gosling is my “hall pass” celebrity. Come to think of it, so is Emma Stone. The thing is, I love music, dancing, film and theatre—just not a combination of all four. So when I heard buzz about Lin-Manuel Miranda’s Broadway musical production In the Heights coming to the big screen, I didn’t think much of it. Then, one cold, dark, wintry pandemic night, I had the chance to preview it, and with a curfew and lockdown in effect, I figured I had nothing to lose. Turns out I was mesmerized from the get-go. While the movie transported me to a three-day-long heat wave on the vibrant streets of the Dominican-American neighbourhood of Washington Heights in New York City, I did not get up once to pee, get a snack or even look at my phone. Miranda’s music was punchy and fun, the choreography and dancing were sensational, the story was touching and heartwarming and I was left with a sense of hope and happiness. I needed this. And I’m not alone—this musical is creating a lot of converts. “I love hearing people say ‘I’m not a musical-theatre person or a musical-movie person, but I loved it,’” gushes Mexican actor Melissa Barrera, who plays lead character Vanessa, when we speak over Zoom ahead of the film’s release on June 11 (both in theatres and on HBO Max). “When you already love musicals, you’re an easy audience, but what we want is for everyone to watch this movie and like it.” American playwright Quiara Alegría Hudes wrote the book for Miranda’s musical, which had its Broadway debut in 2008 and won four Tony Awards and one Grammy that year. The 30
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film version—produced by Miranda, written by Hudes and directed by Crazy Rich Asians’ Jon M. Chu—has been a long time coming; it was delayed early on due to a cancelled deal with the Weinstein Company before being picked up by Warner Bros., and then its release was held up because of the pandemic. But I’m here to tell you that it’s worth the wait. “I’m so happy there’s a musical-movie resurgence happening because that’s what I love doing the most, so if I can make more musical movies, please sign me up,” says Barrera. “It was such a great experience and work environment because we were all literally a team. Every song-and-dance number was a lot of hard work, but that’s how we made the magic that we did.” One of the most striking things about In the Heights is the cast of heavy hitters—many of whom are Latinx—including Barrera, who plays opposite Anthony Ramos from Hamilton; Cory Hawkins from Straight Outta Compton; singer-songwriter Leslie Grace; Stephanie Beatriz from Brooklyn Nine-Nine; Dascha Polanco from Orange Is the New Black; Olga Merediz, who reprises her Broadway role as Abuela Claudia; Jimmy Smits; Marc Antony; and Miranda himself. The triple-threat ensemble is a seamless crew—like the cool kids at music camp—but newcomer Barrera steals the spotlight as Ramos’ love interest, a local girl who works in a beauty salon and dreams of moving out of the neighbourhood. “Theatre has always been my first love,” says Barrera. “I started doing theatre and musical theatre in middle school, and I fell in love with not only being onstage and telling a story but also feeding off the audience’s energy—that interchange is magical.” Barrera grew up in Monterrey, Nuevo León, Mexico. She became a telenovela star before making the leap to the big screen in her native country all while staying true to her love
PHOTOGRAPHY, GREG WILLIAMS (M. BARRERA)
By JOANNA FOX
of theatre with major roles in three long-running Mexico City productions. But it was when she moved to Los Angeles and was cast as a lead in Vida, a show on the Starz network about two sisters who are reunited after their mother’s death, that she began to turn Hollywood heads. “In January 2019, Lin FaceTimed me and told me that I got the part,” says Barrera. “I immediately started weeping. When I hung up, I just sat there, f loating. It didn’t feel real. I felt like I had been working toward this and manifesting this moment for 10-plus years of my life, and then it finally happened and it was the most fulfilling feeling I’ve ever experienced.” The film is centred on Ramos’ character, Usnavi, a young bodega owner who is saving every penny so that he can create a better life for himself back home in Puerto Rico. It was shot on location in Washington Heights; the cast also rehearsed there for 10 weeks, which means they spent a total of five months together. “We’re a family now,” says Barrera. “This was a very special once-in-alifetime experience for all of us, and we’re very aware of that.” Not only is this a visually stunning production—with scenes like a synchronized singing-dancing-swimming number in an outdoor pool that will have you completely enthralled—but it also contains a powerful message about the adversity and challenges faced by the Latinx community as well as their hopes and dreams for something more. “I’ve been waiting for an opportunity like this—not just for me but for what this movie will represent for Latinx people in the industry,” says Barrera. “I think it will open a lot of doors, and I’m so excited for us to have a moment right now—we deserve to have our stories told on the big screen and for the world to see them.” With its original June 2020 release date pushed back, the cast had to wait a whole extra year before they could finally share and celebrate their hard work. But, Barrera tells me, everything has turned out for the best. This film could not have come out at a better time than now, when we all need to be reminded of the vibrancy, beauty and love that exists in the world despite these extremely difficult times. “We need an escape—we need something positive and joyful that will make us smile and feel good from beginning to end,” says Barrera. “It’s medicine right now; it will be good for people’s souls and hearts.” I couldn’t agree more.
“I’VE BEEN WAITING FOR AN OPPORTUNITY LIKE THIS—NOT JUST FOR ME BUT FOR WHAT THIS MOVIE WILL REPRESENT FOR LATINX PEOPLE IN THE INDUSTRY.” ELLECANADA.COM
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TIKTOK TEETH Social media is driving the trend of having a sparkling-white smile, and more young people are putting their money where their mouth is. By SUMIKO WILSON
TREND
PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY
V
ENEERS ARE NOTHING NEW,
but nearly a century after they first arrived on the scene via Hollywood dentist Charles Pincus, their popularity is at a fever pitch. What used to be a prerequisite for movie stars (Google Tom Cruise’s smile before and after), rappers (Gucci Mane’s set is literally fluorescent) and reality-TV personalities (NeNe Leakes’ dental journey is Odysseyworthy) is now a go-to for influencers and pretty much everyone else thanks to social media. “I’ve been doing this for almost 28 years, but in terms of veneers, they’re on the rise—especially among young people,” says Dr. Sol Weiss, a cosmetic dentist in Toronto. He finds this ironic given that our smiles have been hidden since early 2020. “You wouldn’t think that this would be happening now, but it seems like people are having it done because they’re getting ready for a time when they won’t be wearing masks,” says Weiss. Dr. Goth Siu, a prosthodontist who has also seen a surge since reopening last summer, has a different theory. “People are doing a lot more virtual meetings, and they’re looking at themselves way more than normal,” he says. “[Before COVID], you’d be looking at other people, but [these days], in virtual meetings, most people are just looking at themselves.” Toward the end of last year, TikTok users popularized the “veneers check,” where they showed harrowing “before” shots of their smiles: whittled-down nubs awaiting a whole new set of teeth. Dentists on the platform sounded off, clarifying that when teeth are filed down to pegs, as they were in those videos, they require full-on crowns, not veneers. The former encompasses the entire tooth and requires more thorough filing down, hence the sharklike grins we were seeing on TikTok. Much like acrylics cover nails, veneers coat the front of the tooth with a shell made of porcelain or composite resin. It’s a smile-enhancing option for those with chips, tooth decay or excessive yellowing, and it can also address more subtle imperfections like gaps. Once the tooth is prepped—a small amount of the surface is ground away—the veneers are installed with an adhesive and tailored to the perfect size, shape and hue. Siu, whose downtown-Toronto practice works strictly with crowns and veneers, insists that if done properly, veneers can be very conservative, requiring that very little enamel be removed. But even with less filing, they can still be risky for younger patients, says Weiss. “Anytime you’re filing into younger people’s teeth, the nerves are bigger and there’s more of a chance that you can damage them,” he explains. “If you file too close to a nerve, they can wind up needing root canals in the future.” And considering that sets need to be replaced every 10 to 15 years, filing isn’t a one-time occurrence. “They don’t
last forever, and [if you start] at 16 or 18 years old, you’re going to be doing a lot of those in your lifetime,” says Weiss. “Every time you do, you’re taking more of the tooth off. It’s impossible not to.” Siu likens the process to sanding away wallpaper. “Every time the veneers are redone, the dentist has to polish the teeth, and no matter how careful they are, they’re probably going to touch the underlying wall a little bit,” he says. The biggest misconception is that veneers are an easy fix, says Weiss. When Toronto microblader Danielle Szpargala went to Siu for porcelain veneers on her two front teeth, it was a multi-step process. “The way I did it required years of lead-up,” she says. “I had braces twice, then I had to look at whitening and internal bleaching, then I had gum surgery. It’s not a one- or two-month process—sometimes it can be really long. But when you do it right, it makes all the difference.” The risks are present, but they can’t dampen the unrelenting desire for a sparkling smile, something that can be traced back to antiquity. Archaeologists discovered Egyptian mummies with gold bonding on their teeth, applied similarly to how we’d use a retainer. What function it served is unclear, but the find suggests that teeth have long been a status symbol. Today, a perfect smile implies either great genes or some level of dental work, with a more extreme show of wealth being a mouth full of bling in the form of iced-out grillz. But the cost of dental prosthetics adds an element of exclusivity. Weiss says that at his clinic, the average price of porcelain veneers ranges from $1,200 to $2,000 per tooth. While composite veneers—which are sculpted directly onto the natural tooth using a white-coloured resin—are more affordable, they are less durable and more susceptible to staining. Toronto influencer Anife Toupeva got composite veneers installed in February, two months before launching her own YouTube channel, which now has over 30,000 subscribers. “I don’t know if there’s any correlation, but it’s interesting that I waited until after I got my teeth done to start posting,” she says. She shared details of the procedure—her way of keeping it real. “The only thing that people want is honesty so that young children aren’t growing up and being hard on themselves, thinking that these things are natural,” says Toupeva. “The beauty standard is unrealistic, so I wanted to be super transparent and show what I looked like before, even though it was hard for me.” Whether or not we actually part ways with our masks this year, veneers are here to stay. But instead of passing them off as natural, it’s important to keep the spirit of disclosure at the core of the TikTok “veneers check” alive so that new smiles can be enjoyed and admired without setting an unrealistic standard.
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Can You Be Addicted to
ISOLATION? Theoretically, we want our freedom back. But are we really ready to trade in the comfort and safety of quarantine? A former extrovert explains.
T’S 5 A.M. ON A SUNDAY MORNING when I truly take in
my surroundings. I’m on a makeshift dance floor in the basement of a random local shop with a roomful of strangers and the one friend who’s happy to take any evening as far into the night as I am. She looks terrible. I can only assume that, after eight hours of frantic drinking and dancing, I look the same. Once again, a night that started out relatively civilized—a meal at a bougie new restaurant—has descended into chaos. Reckless nights out like this were a staple of my life BC (before COVID): There were parties, afterparties and after-afterparties, topped off with brunch and more escapades with another set of friends the next day. The prospect of a night in—or, worse, a night in alone—seemed dull. Tragic, even. As a consequence, I’ve never been skilled in the art of being by myself. It makes me feel on edge, nervous. I can’t even lie in bed with my own thoughts.
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Instead, I have to rely on podcasts—the thoughts and voices of others, if you will—to send me off to sleep. What, then, is the worst thing that could happen to someone like me? Lockdown. And so in March of last year, there it was at last: solitude. I felt as if the lights in my life had been turned off. My diary emptied. My “night-out friends” disappeared. For the first time ever, it was just me and the four walls of my apartment. Those first few weeks were what can only be described as actively painful—like a splitting headache that no amount of painkillers could dull. Gone was the thrill of being wanted by others. Gone was the dizzying anticipation of how far I could push a casual drink out. Life felt...flat. Terrifying. Because for the first time in as long as I could remember, I was alone with my thoughts. I’m not good with a lot of headspace. Time to think has never appealed to me, largely because thinking tips into the obsessive, which tips into a lot of negative self-talk. I’ve always
PHOTOGRAPHY, UNSPLASH
I
By BECKY BURGUM
ZEITGEIST been this way; I’m an overthinker. I will hash out memories of the smallest events that happened weeks—sometimes even months—ago. I worry about interactions that nobody else has even noticed, sending them whirling around and around in my mind, as if they’re on a spin cycle. It is endless, and it is exhausting. Most of all, I flee from introspection because I’m not sure how much I like myself. As we near the beginning of full social reintegration, the thought of returning to my previous life fills me with dread, despite the fact that we’ve lost a year of valuable carpe diem time. What has changed? A lot. In lockdown, the noise stopped. I felt calmer, grounded, like an untethered balloon that had gradually and gracefully drifted back down to earth. Without a crowd to perform for, I felt enlivened. With new socializing restrictions imposed upon us, I was able to see one close friend for an hour’s walk every day, and I was able to truly connect with them without the pressure of things unravelling into something wild and spontaneous. It felt much easier to leave a Zoom gathering than it ever did to leave a party, which meant I had far fewer hangovers and moments of crushing regret. In my happy isolation, there is no pressure to look good or be interesting; I can just be. “The discovery of a new contentment with solitude can be a very good thing,” says psychologist Bella DePaulo, who, as someone who has lived her entire life as a single person, is a go-to expert on solitude. “It can add an important dimension of depth, meaningfulness and fulfillment to your life.” Psychologist Pauline Rennie-Peyton agrees. “People have started accepting themselves as they are,” she says. “The important questions are: Who am I? What makes me feel good? What [clothes] do I feel comfortable in? It’s about establishing your own identity, not the identity of who people think you are.” I’m not alone (ironically) in experiencing the joy of solitude. Francesca Spector, author of Alonement, had no capacity for introspection until a breakup at 27 left her living on her own. “At 17, I took the Myers-Briggs personality test and it told me I was an extrovert,” says Spector. “It made sense because I loved being around people, so I moved away from any sort of quiet time.” Spector curated an excessively busy life, and no one ever told her it was a problem. She only managed to embrace solo time—which led to her coining the term “alonement,” a positive word to describe the state of being alone—when she reached a breaking point of exhaustion from filling every evening with nights out and bad dates. Here’s the problem: I worry that in rejoining the social world, I will lose my new sense of self and revert to using my social life to complete me. For many of us, crippling FOMO has been replaced with a creeping FOGO (a.k.a. fear of going out). “There’s a relearning that will need to happen,” says writer Eleanor Morgan, who has also spent the pandemic living alone. “I’m finding that it takes me a while to get back into the rhythm of conversation and remembering social cues.” She believes that a dent has been made in her—and many of her friends’—social confidence. The thought of having to navigate group dynamics again makes her uneasy. But psychologist Abigael San, who specializes in mental health and addiction, warns about a new reliance on isolation. “It can be used to avoid underlying issues that need confronting,” she says. “There has been a removal of situations that
IN MY HAPPY ISOLATION, THERE IS NO PRESSURE TO LOOK GOOD OR BE INTERESTING; I CAN JUST BE. bring discomfort, from deciding what to wear to making small talk in a coffee shop. But you will have to face these everyday interactions again one day.” (San explains that finding relief in quarantine is called “negative reinforcement.”) As messages start to roll in about summer plans, group holidays and week-long hedonistic blowouts, my palms begin to sweat and my neck stiffens. I feel anxious that I’ll slip back into my tornado of self-destructive excess. Rennie-Peyton reminds me that when lockdown is finally over, we’ll all have a choice. “Do you want to go back to behaving the way you did before or do you want more balance in your life?” she asks. “It doesn’t have to be one or the other.” If you’ve built up a better, more accepting relationship with yourself, she recommends not going back to the autopilot setting of saying “yes” all the time. “If someone asks ‘Would you like to go to XYZ?’ the answer should be ‘I don’t know; let me think about it,’” says RenniePeyton. “Just because you used to go out drinking a lot with your friends doesn’t mean you have to jet off to Ibiza for a week as soon as travel restrictions are lifted. Life doesn’t have to be lived at such a ridiculously fast pace.” “If you’re feeling anxious, ease back in with a few small social gatherings and build up from there to avoid feeling overwhelmed,” says San. “It’s about not doing anything too big too quickly.” Olivia Laing, author of Lonely City, agrees. “We are likely to find social contact and crowds quite alarming at the same time as longing for them,” she says. “Spending time alone but among others could be a really good way of easing back in—art galleries are a perfect way to do that.” It’s never easy to get the balance right between socializing and quiet time, but if you have learned to appreciate being on your own, Laing suggests making an effort to keep it up: “Schedule it in your diary so your days don’t fill up completely with post-lockdown fun.” I’m hopeful I can swap my addiction to social isolation for social moderation. I aspire to emerge from my cocoon a truly balanced butterfly, introducing the person I’ve become over the past year to my old hedonistic self. Who knows? I might even turn into one of those mysterious, sophisticated women who go out for dinner alone with just a good book for company. But I do wonder if, as the world opens up and light comes flooding back in, the sheer messy, sprawling joy of tequila-fuelled spontaneity with friends and friendly strangers will prove impossible to resist. ELLECANADA.COM
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THROUGH TRAUMA
Taking a deep inhale is known to help you relax, but more people are now using their breath to heal from traumatic experiences. By STEPHANIE MERCIER VOYER ELLECANADA.COM
37
HEALTH ABOUT TWO YEARS AGO, I had a serious
accident that left me with a fractured pelvis, left foot and L1 vertebra. I had gone rock climbing at a gym with a friend and forgot to properly secure my harness before my ascent. I’d climbed about three-quarters of the way up the wall (roughly the height of a two-storey building) when the rope fell to the ground and we realized I wasn’t attached. Attempting to climb down was out of the question due to a tricky overhang and the fact that my hands were trembling with fear. I held on for as long as I could, but after a few seconds or minutes (it turns out that in real life—just like in any good action movie—time has a tendency to slow down during do-or-die situations), my fingers gave up and I fell to the ground. But unlike the slow-motion-fall movie trope, my fall happened really fast. There was but a split second between when I let go of the grip and when my body violently hit the thin mat covering the gym floor. I didn’t even scream when the shock turned into pain. I pretended everything was just fine, even going as far as to say “I probably just pulled something.” I struggled to breathe normally until the first responders handed me a brown paper bag to breathe into. During the ambulance ride to the hospital, I focused my attention on my breath to manage the sharp pangs that pulsed through my body with every bump in the road. Inhale. Exhale. Inhale. After a three-week stint in the hospital, where the doctors drilled a 10-inch titanium screw through my pelvis to put
it back together, I moved in with friends because I couldn’t take care of myself. A month later, once my bones had healed and I started to walk again, I moved back into my apartment. As the weeks went by, it looked to the outside world like I was doing better—great, even. But inside, I felt shattered. Almost every night, I would wake up drenched in sweat from having nightmares about the fall. Sometimes I would have to change my shirt three times. In the morning, there would be nail marks on my palms because I was clenching my fists in my sleep. I spoke about the accident in therapy and meditated every day, hoping it would make the nightmares go away, but no matter how much I talked about it or sat in silence listening to Headspace’s Andy Puddicombe telling me to “remember the blue sky” behind the clouds, I remained stuck in a loop, reliving the trauma of my accident—until I tried breathwork. Unlike meditation, where you simply observe your breath without changing it, breathwork is the practice of consciously manipulating your breath for a period of time to calm the mind, release emotions and heal from trauma. While this modality has gained in popularity thanks to people like Gwyneth Paltrow, who featured breathwork legend Wim Hof in her Netflix docuseries, The Goop Lab, the practice is nothing new. Different cultures have been using controlled breathing—like pranayama in yoga, ancient Christian breath prayers and breath meditation in Buddhism, Taoism, Sufism and Shamanism—to access
higher levels of consciousness for thousands of years. Victoria Bauman, a professional breathwork facilitator who grew up between Haiti and Canada, has led hundreds of people around the world, including me, through breathwork journeys. But Bauman’s path to breathwork wasn’t straightforward. After graduating from Montreal’s McGill University with a bachelor’s degree in political science and international development, she worked for various NGOs before reorienting her career to become a certified personal coach. Bauman then relocated to Bali, where, about five years into her new life, her friends recommended that she attend a nearby breathwork workshop. “This was the deepest I had gone inside myself,” she says of her first experience. “I was actually seeing my own insecurities for the first time from an observer’s standpoint.” Bauman immediately saw how breathwork could help heal her clients and other individuals in need. She spent the next few months training with various teachers to become a professional breathwork facilitator and started hosting her own workshops soon after. “The most common misconception is that it’s just a way to breathe better,” says Bauman. “People don’t realize that it can actually change their lives.” While she is currently on a mission to bring breathwork to the masses by hosting international workshops in person and online for individuals and groups, she advises against trying it alone for the first time or leading a session if you
Almost every night, I would wake up drenched in sweat from having nightmares about the fall. Sometimes I would have to change my shirt three times.
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ELLECANADA.COM
HEALTH aren’t trained. “If you aren’t ready to hold space for somebody going through their process, you can actually cut them off at a key moment and it can sometimes retraumatize people,” she explains. In her in-person group workshops, which usually welcome about 50 people (in non-COVID times), Bauman uses connected breathing and music to support participants through the four-hour experience. After learning and practising the basics of breathwork, they are asked to lie down and breathe without pause for a full hour, connecting each inhale with each exhale. The physical effects of the technique can be felt in the body almost instantly. Some people report experiencing tingling around the mouth, tightness in the hands and a general vibrating sensation. These harmless reactions can be attributed to existing tension in the body and a slight CO2 buildup in the blood caused by a forced exhale. “Breathing is this really cool doorway into our inner being because it’s something that’s normally done automatically,” says Bauman. Research has shown that when you consciously control your breath, the sympathetic nervous system, which commands your fight-orflight response, is activated. This allows you to scan for any stress responses that might be stuck in a loop. Breathwork can also help you reach a deeper state of mind by stimulating the limbic system, the part of your brain that deals with memories and emotions. “Anything that has been suppressed there will be released,” she says. “That’s why the workshops can get pretty rowdy.” During the hour, Bauman encourages participants to let out anything that comes up, which means people might start laughing, crying and screaming all at once. Explaining what happens inside your mind during breathwork feels like trying to describe a psychedelic experience to someone who has never done drugs. You can detail the physical sensations and the visuals, but the feeling of unity and the personal insights are much harder to translate. At times, breathwork can feel exactly like tripping on mushrooms or LSD, and that’s just the tip of it. In fact, our modern understanding of breathwork was born out of LSD research conducted in the 1960s by psychiatrist Stanislav Grof. His research explored using altered states of consciousness to heal
and gain insights into the human psyche. But when LSD became illegal in the late ’60s, Grof decided to continue his study without drugs. He quickly realized that altered states could be achieved simply by using a conscious-breathing technique he called “holotropic breathwork.” Since then, more studies have shown that different types of breathwork can help treat depression, addiction and PTSD. There is also ongoing research into the theory that breathwork releases DMT, a psychedelic chemical substance that is naturally found in several plants and animals, including humans. Those who have recreationally injected, smoked or ingested DMT in brews like ayahuasca report experiencing visions and a feeling of oneness with the universe—the same feeling described by many people after a breathwork session. After launching Inerjys Ventures, a global investment fund, serial entrepreneur Stephan Ouaknine began to experience anxiety for the first time in his life. “I started developing claustrophobia, and all of a sudden I had panic attacks [when I went over] bridges,” he says. To manage it, he turned to yoga, meditation and 5Rhythms dancing (a movement meditation practice that draws from Indigenous traditions), but it wasn’t until he tried breathwork with Bauman that things started to shift. “I had a vision of my higher self during the first session,” says Ouaknine. “He was this guy sitting in the ether, kind of all-knowing.” With Bauman guiding him, he had an epiphany. “I got the reassurance that I was on the right path,” he says of his conversation with his higher self. After that, he never experienced another panic attack, something he attributes to his ongoing breathwork practice. “I’m a better human because of breathwork,” he adds. “Breathwork tells me the truth about myself, about what masks I wear and what masks I should take off.” While I personally didn’t see my higher self during my session, I feel like I saw my whole life flash before my eyes. It was a cascade of events, a mix of banal and important moments: eight-year-old me sitting by the window waiting for my dad to pick me up for the weekend; at the airport saying goodbye to my ex-boyfriend after our breakup; lying on my side in the hospital while my mom gently washed my back. And then, almost
Explaining what happens inside your mind during breathwork feels like trying to describe a psychedelic experience to someone who has never done drugs. in a flash, the rhythm of my connected breath transported me back to the accident and breathing into a brown paper bag. And without registering that it was happening, I started screaming. It wasn’t until that point that I realized I hadn’t screamed since the accident. But once the floodgates opened, I couldn’t stop. I had repressed so much pain while in the hospital out of fear of making the people I love feel uncomfortable. I knew how bad things looked for me—I couldn’t sit up and could barely move my left leg—so I turned to jokes to make people feel at ease around my broken body. As I continued to wail, I heard Bauman’s voice reassure me that she was there to support me. She softly placed her hands on my shoulders, and as she did that, I saw my family and my friends gathered around my hospital bed. I felt an intense feeling of love wash over me and a weight lift off my chest. A few days after the workshop, I had another dream about the accident. At first, it looked like all the other ones, except this time, a bright figure lifted me from the climbing wall and gently carried me back down to the floor. That was the last time I dreamed about the accident. Hopefully, with people like Bauman spreading the word, breathwork can become a well-known tool that people can use to heal themselves and start a new chapter. And as the world begins to reopen after more than a year of COVID-19 restrictions, I can’t think of a better time for us to take a deep breath and let go of our collective trauma. ELLECANADA.COM
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beauty
FOLLOW THE SUN
It’s the perfect time of year to highlight your natural features with a no-makeup makeup look enhanced by a touch of colour. With warm sun-kissed tones like gold, yellow and orange—and your hair pulled back to reveal glowing skin—golden hour can last all day. By CAROLINA ALVAREZ
Photographer ALI MITTON Producer THE GOLD HORSE FOR ELLE MEXICO
Warm up your complexion by highlighting the cheekbones with a bronzing powder that has pink undertones, and then brush a soft-orange shadow over the eyelids. M·A·C Cosmetics Powder Kiss Soft Matte Eye Shadow in So Haute Right Now ($24, maccosmetics.ca) BareMinerals Gen Nude Blonzer Blush + Bronzer in Kiss of Copper ($33, sephora.ca) Tower 28 Beauty Bronzino Illuminating Cream Bronzer in West Coast ($26, sephora.ca) Dress (Valentino) and silver earrings (Agmes)
Say yes to simplicity. Opt for a tinted cream base with a luminous finish, and then highlight the nose, cheeks, Cupid’s bow and chin with a light-reflecting oil that also hydrates. Fenty Beauty by Rihanna Eaze Drop Blurring Skin Tint ($39, sephora.ca) Guerlain Abeille Royale Youth Watery Oil ($188, holtrenfrew.com) Silver earrings (Agmes)
For a simple, natural look, blend an ochre eyeshadow on the eyelids, delicately fading it up toward the eyebrows. Morphe 9U Catch the Sun Artistry Palette ($16, morphe.com) Smashbox Always On Cream Eye Shadow in Ochre ($28, smashbox.ca) Gold and ruby earring (Mondo Mondo)
Smooth on a tinted sunscreen before applying a light-coloured balm: Use a brush to blend a small amount onto the apples of your cheeks, and then dab a little onto your lips with your fingertips for a natural effect. Finish with eyeliner to brighten your eyes. Glossier Cloud Paint in Spark ($22, glossier.com) La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral One Tinted Daily Cream SPF 50+ ($32, laroche-posay.ca) Dior Diorshow 24H Stylo in Pearly Bronze ($37, sephora.ca) Models, Khadijha Red Thunder (Photogenics) and Amberlie Morter (IMG); makeup, Casey Gore; hair, Eddie Cook; stylist, Mecca Cox; artistic director, Ali Mitton; director of photography, Dominic Haydn Rawle; production director, Dalit Gwenna Branch; digital technician, Daniel Goldwasser; production, Marco Rodriguez and Grady Strange
SAVERS
Protecting yourself from the sun is crucial. Here’s what you need to know. By MARIÈVE INOUE
PHOTOGRAPHY, #THURSDAYSCHILD X TRUNK ARCHIVE
Skin
BEAUTY
T
AKE THE SUN’S STRONGER SUMMER RAYS and
combine them with more time spent outdoors in lighter, more revealing clothing and you’ve got the perfect storm for a sunburn, which inevitably leads to premature aging (wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, loss of elasticity)—not to mention an increased risk of skin cancer. And with over 80,000 cases diagnosed in Canada each year, it’s essential to keep skin protection top of mind.
ALL THE ACRONYMS
“UVB rays lead to sunburn, but UVAs penetrate the skin more deeply and are associated with more long-term UV damage and skin cancer development,” says Dr. Sandy Skotnicki, dermatologist and assistant professor at the University of Toronto. She notes, however, that both types of rays are important risk factors when it comes to skin cancer. “UVAs are present throughout the year at the same intensity, even when it’s cloudy,” says Holly Thaggard, founder of sunscreen brand Supergoop!. That’s why sunscreens need to protect skin from both kinds of rays, even though the SPF—sun protection factor—number only pertains to UVB protection. To ensure you’re getting a sunscreen that provides adequate UVA protection, says Nour Dayeh, who has a Ph.D. in biomedical sciences and is the medical communications manager at La Roche-Posay and Dermablend, you should choose one that has “broad spectrum” and the
UVA logo (the letters “UVA” in a circle) on the label; this logo indicates that a product respects Health Canada’s requirement that it contain a level of UVA protection that’s equivalent to at least one-third of its SPF. THE RIGHT SUNSCREEN
The general recommendation is to reach for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30; there are plenty of options that fit these criteria and cater to every preference and skin type. “Chemical” (or “organic”) sunscreens tend to have a lighter texture with a clear finish and absorb UV rays by turning them into heat, whereas “mineral” (sometimes called “physical” or “inorganic”) sunscreens work by reflecting the rays and absorbing some as well. Mineral sunscreens are often recommended for those with sensitive skin as they’re less likely to cause allergic reactions and irritation. But when it comes to finding the right formula, the best sunscreen is the one you’ll use consistently. “The biggest challenge when it comes to sun protection is compliance, so we recommend focusing on textures that suit your skin type and everyday needs,” says Dayeh. And if you have skin that doesn’t burn readily, that doesn’t mean you can afford to skimp on sunscreen. “While those with darker skin tones may be less likely to burn from UVB rays, it’s still important to protect from UVAs,” says Thaggard. The bottom line? Everyone, regardless of skin tone, should be wearing sunscreen—period.
3. 1. 2. 5.
7.
4. 6.
1. AlumierMD Sheer Hydration Broad Spectrum SPF 40 ($48, alumiermd.ca). 2. Supergoop! Glowscreen SPF 40 ($48, sephora.ca). 3. Ren Skincare Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30 Mattifying Face Sunscreen ($47, renskincare.com). 4. Lotus Aroma Daily Sunscreen Face SPF 30 ($29, lotusaroma.com). 5. Ombrelle Face Mineral Hydrating Lotion Sunscreen SPF 50 ($14, garnier.ca). 6. Olay Regenerist Mineral Hydrating Moisturizer SPF 30 ($40, olay.ca). 7. Clarins UV 50 Sunscreen Multi-Protection Tint ($44, clarins.ca).
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BEAUTY 2.
HOW MUCH TO APPLY
“Most people under-apply sunscreen,” warns Skotnicki. Thaggard agrees. “I always say that when you think you’ve applied enough, put on a little more,” she says. The ideal amount is one teaspoon for the face, head and neck, two for your torso (front and back), one per arm and two per leg (including your feet). LAYERING
Although using one sunscreen on top of another won’t provide a higher SPF, “layering can ensure that you end up covering areas you may have missed with your first application,” says Thaggard. For most of us, our day-to-day activities vary, which is why a winning strategy is to have a variety of sunscreens to choose from, including water-resistant formulas, sprays, loose powders, compacts and sticks. This also enables you to customize your coverage for more sensitive areas. “Sunscreen sticks can be helpful around the eyes,” says Skotnicki. She also recommends using them on the décolleté and the lips—areas that shouldn’t be forgotten.
1.
4.
3.
1. Laboratoire Dr Renaud Loose Powder SPF 50 ($58, ldrenaud.com). 2. Attitude Mineral Sunscreen Stick SPF 30 ($20, ca.attitudeliving.com). 3. Eau Thermale Avène High Protection Tinted Compact SPF 50 ($35, eau-thermale-avene.ca). 4. Shiseido Clear Sunscreen Stick SPF 50+ ($40, shiseido.com).
THE BEST SUNSCREEN IS THE ONE YOU’LL USE CONSISTENTLY. APPLY, REPEAT
A good rule of thumb is to reapply every two hours, as some sunscreens break down with UV exposure or rub off if you get dressed before they have been properly absorbed. “The more you reapply, the closer you get to having the correct amount of sunscreen,” says Skotnicki. “It’s also recommended that you reapply immediately after swimming or excessive sweating,” says Dayeh—even if it’s been less than two hours since your last sunscreen round. BEYOND SUNSCREEN
Sunscreen isn’t the only way to protect yourself from the sun; it’s also important to seek shade. Sun-protective clothing can be a great tool, while sunglasses can help shield your eye area. As for your head, “wear a hat with a tight weave—even better if it’s made of UPF fabric,” suggests Skotnicki. SOOTHING A SUNBURN 3.
1. 2.
4.
1. Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Body Mist Sunscreen Spray SPF 45 ($18, neutrogena.ca). 2. Bioderma Photoderm Spray SPF 40 ($30, bioderma.ca). 3. La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Ultra-Fluid Lotion for Body SPF 50 ($36, laroche-posay.ca). 4. Blue Lizard Sensitive Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 ($15, amazon.ca).
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If you still get a sunburn despite your best efforts, reach for “a cold compress, an anti-inflammatory like ibuprofen and topical steroid creams,” says Skotnicki. Other options include taking cold baths or showers and applying a moisturizer that contains calming ingredients like aloe vera. “Thermal-water sprays are also great for helping to cool and soothe the skin,” says Dayeh.
SHOPPING BEAUTY
The
GLOWDOWN Here are the latest must-have products for the ultimate tan—minus the sun damage. By JULIA MCEWEN
Forget about those sticky, smelly orange-tinged tans of the past. According to Nicole Hyatt, a professional tan artist and the founder of Tan on the Run, an international luxury mobile spray-tan service, the faux-glow category has come a long way. “People are protecting themselves from the sun, but they still want a tan, so the evolution has come about because of demand,” says Hyatt, whose clients include A-listers like Lady Gaga and Jessica Chastain. From mists to creams, drops and foams, there’s no shortage of ways to get sun-kissed skin sans sun. After all, why risk UV damage when a faux tan looks so real that no one can tell it came from a bottle? Hyatt says choosing the right formula and mastering the application are essential steps to getting a bespoke glow. “The goal is to look like you have a tan but not a fake one, so always go for a more natural look, especially if it’s your first time,” she says. “Start light and gradually work your way up.” Before you get your fake tan on, make sure you have the right products and tools. These streak-free self-tanners are easy to use and will leave you with perfectly glowing skin.
1. BEST COLLABORATION Supermodel Ashley Graham and St. Tropez teamed up to create this glow kit, which comes with a mousse and a mitt. The mousse’s whipped texture makes application a breeze for selftanning newbies and veterans alike.
2. BEST FOR DRY SKIN Made with hydrating ingredients like squalane and aloe vera, Vita Liberata’s newest faux glow delivers a flawless bronze shade that continues to develop over three days thanks to advanced encapsulated DHA technology.
3. BEST FOR A SUBTLE BOOST Add four to six drops of this booster to a dollop of your favourite body moisturizer and a natural-looking colour will gradually develop. The drops allow you to customize your tan intensity.
St. Tropez x Ashley Graham Ultimate Glow Mousse Kit ($72, shoppersdrugmart.ca)
Vita Liberata Heavenly Elixir Advanced Tinted Tanning Elixir in Medium ($51, vitaliberata canada.ca)
4. BEST FOR A NO-FUSS FACIAL TAN A glow-getting product that requires minimal effort? Yes, please! This colourless facial mist, which is infused with skinsoothing rosewater, slowly gives skin a radiant tan. James Read Gradual Tan H2O Tan Mist Face ($35, jamesreadtan.ca)
Clarins Radiance-Plus Golden Glow Booster for Body ($48, clarins.ca)
5. BEST FOR A QUICK FIX Even those who are proficient in self-tanning make mistakes. This foolproof remover works in just five minutes—no heavy-duty exfoliation required.
6. BEST FOR A GRADUAL GLOW This ultra-hydrating gradual tanning body butter not only moisturizes the skin but also gives it a subtle, buildable glow.
Bondi Sands Self Tan Eraser ($34, shoppersdrugmart.ca)
7. BEST FOR TOUCH-UPS Tan on the Run’s Nicole Hyatt created this ultra-fine spray for clients who want to touch up their bodies and refresh their faces at home. The brush is used to buff the product for a streak-free finish.
Isle of Paradise Self-Tanning Butter ($33, sephora.ca)
4.
5. 3.
6.
Oh So Organic SelfTanning Spray and Instant Bronzing Mist and Tanning Brush ($45 and $30, tanontherun.com)
2.
PHOTOGRAPHY, PEXELS (MODEL)
7.
1.
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BEAUTY
Ageless Grace
Film producer and Oscar-winning actor HALLE BERRY, who has recently partnered with beauty brand Finishing Touch Flawless, shares her tips and tricks for a perennial glow. By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
ON HER BEAUTY ROUTINE “As soon as I wake up, I cleanse my
face and then nourish and hydrate my skin. The products I use have evolved as I’ve learned more about what skin actually needs, but I’ve been a fan of vitamin C for years. Whether it’s in cream or serum form, it works miracles.”
1. Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist ($62, sephora.ca) 2. Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray ($60, holtrenfrew.com) 3. Finishing Touch Flawless Brows ($30, amazon.ca)
ON HOW SHE RELAXES “With the pandemic and public-health
measures, I think we’re all paying twice as much attention to the trips we’re taking and the places we’re going—let’s just say I can’t imagine returning to a crowded steam room just yet! For now, I’ve replaced my ‘me time’ at the spa with ‘me time’ at home. And to make it stress-free, I’m lucky to have quality tools from Flawless, whether they’re for shaving, giving myself a pedicure or deep-cleaning my face. They make everything easier and allow me to learn new techniques.” ON HER BEST BEAUTY TIPS “My makeup artist, Jorge Monroy,
PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY (H. BERRY)
introduced me to Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist. I was skeptical the first time he wanted to spray it on top of my freshly applied makeup, but now I can’t live without the natural dewy effect it creates. I’m also a big fan of Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray, which a lot of pros use. It gives hair body and incredible texture.” ON HER FAVOURITE FRAGRANCE “I like natural notes, like
patchouli and bergamot. I have a soft spot for perfume oils because they’re so easy to apply, but I’m less likely to wear fragrance these days. I think that, like a lot of people, I wear perfume more for others than for myself—which shouldn’t be the case—and I’m looking forward to getting back into the habit.”
1. 3. 2.
ON THE PRODUCTS IN HER PURSE “Lip balm—having dry lips drives me bananas!—mattifying rice papers for my face and my Finishing Touch Flawless Brows. I’m obsessed with my eyebrows right now, and I find that the best place to fix them is in the car. The light is always amazing, and the mirror allows for incrediblyhigh-precision touch-ups.” ON THE WOMEN WHO INSPIRE HER “I have boundless ad miration for Kamala Harris and the page in history she’s
currently writing. As a woman of colour, I am proud to see a woman who looks like me in such an important position. And in my own industry, it’s Zendaya who’s impressing me the most. She’s so talented and articulate even though she’s still so young. She has a great career ahead of her. She’s also an inspiration to my daughter, Nahla, and that fills me with joy!” ELLECANADA.COM
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PHOTOGRAPHY, MÓNICA HERNÁNDEZ (INSTAGRAM @MONICAGREATGAL)
BEAUTY
LET IT
GROW The pandemic has made us rethink everything from clothing choices to the need to wear makeup, and it’s time to finally move on from body-hair stigma too. By GABRIELLE LISA COLLARD
THE PAST YEAR AND A HALF has seen many
of us take a step back to examine societal norms surrounding aesthetics—goodbye, bras, makeup and constrictive clothing— and ask an honest question: Who am I really doing this for, anyway? Now more people are questioning their body-hairremoval routines too. The smooth look is nothing new; it goes back to around 3000 BC, when the world’s oldest known razors were made from copper in Egypt and India. Over the centuries, everything from pumice stones to tweezers to thread to sugar were used for hair removal. Hairless skin was less popular during the Victorian era, when even a glimpse of a woman’s ankle was scandalous, but the modern trend for near-total shaving is believed to be related to Charles Darwin’s famous theory of “natural selection,” which he explained in his 1871 book, The Descent of Man, and Selection in Relation to Sex. In the book, Darwin hypothesized that modern Homo sapiens have little body hair compared to our ancestors because they tended toward the
less hairy when selecting mates, meaning the more hirsute among them were less likely to reproduce and pass down their hairy genes. By the beginning of the 20th century, middle-class and affluent North American women had already started associating smooth skin with femininity and desirability. The first razor designed specifically for women, Gillette’s Milady Décolleté, hit shelves in 1915. Up until that point, the company had only been marketing to men, but with sleeveless tops growing in popularity, advertisements in women’s magazines started calling the razor the must-have solution to an “embarrassing personal problem.” A shortage of nylon stockings during the Second World War and the appearance of miniskirts, bikinis and pin-up styles were all factors in shaving becoming so popular that by 1964, 98 percent of women in America shaved regularly. Though temporarily rejected by the hippie movement of the 1960s and ’70s, the trend for smooth skin returned in full force with the arrival of
the Brazilian bikini in the 1980s and, along with it, an ever-growing variety of hair-removal methods, including laser and electrolysis. What started as a lucrative ad campaign bent on shaping our collective vision of beauty and femininity has grown into a universal discomfort with the female body in its natural state. “People are very uncomfortable with the idea [of not shaving], but you have to see things for what they are, and shaving for women is meant to make them look prepubescent,” says Roxanne Hallal, a sexology master’s student and ambassador for the Quebec-based Maipoils movement, which provides a safe environment for anyone who wants to explore their freedom of choice regarding body hair. “The difference between a girl and a woman is puberty: body shape, periods, hair. And the second these become visible, we’re expected to make them disappear.” Not only has this cult of eternal youth affected our relationship with our own hair but we’ve also been convinced ELLECANADA.COM
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that body hair is dirty. “We incorrectly believe that removing our body hair is more hygienic, but it actually has an important role, especially in the case of the genitals,” says Hallal. “We get pushed into a never-ending fight with our bodies because hair always grows back, sometimes darker and thicker than before.” In the past few years, a mini body-hair revolution has taken off, highlighted by initiatives like Januhairy and Maipoils, which encourage people to let it grow, and celebrities like Bella Thorne, Jemima Kirke and Ashley Graham, who’ve appeared in public with hairy armpits or legs, prompting waves of support for going au naturel. For some, the simple recognition that removing hair is a choice—not an obligation—is a radical act of self-realization. “Showing my body hair was like letting go of a big secret,” says Esther Calixte-Bea (a.k.a. Queen Esie), an artist and model and an important figure in the pro-body-hair movement. In 2019, the young Quebecer, who has been hairy since adolescence and was recently on the cover of UK Glamour, decided to stop shaving her chest and create a series of self-portraits, titled The Lavender Project, to immortalize the 54
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Alex Lacelle
turning point in what she describes as a long process of rebuilding her self-esteem. Though she didn’t consider herself an activist at first, Calixte-Bea quickly saw the positive impact that her images had on thousands of people around the world. “Photography has an immense power over our perception of beauty, and body hair can be beautiful, classy and glamorous,” she says. For others, it’s about taking control of their physical identity. “My relationship with my hair helped me make peace with my gender,” says model Alex Lacelle. On their Instagram, Lacelle, who’s nonbinary and queer, shares photos of themself with their body hair visible. Accustomed to the stares of others, they say that making the choice to keep their hair helped them take back control of their body and identity, in both the public sphere and their personal relationships. “If the person I’m with is bothered by or judges me for my hair, that’s their problem, not mine,” says Lacelle. Acting feminine can be a heavy burden to bear, so making certain choices, including shaving their head, wearing the unconventional clothes they prefer and letting their body hair grow, brought a feeling of freedom. “It allowed me to rediscover
myself away from the expectations of others,” they add. “Whatever I do, I know that I’m doing it for myself—always.” So the next time you reach for the razor, ask yourself whether that’s really what you want to do. Because if it isn’t, you can put it right back down—you certainly wouldn’t be alone.
Five body-hair-positive accounts to follow. ALEX LACELLE @leksendrine
+ ESTHER CALIXTE-BEA @queen_esie and @artist_esie
+ HARNAAM KAUR @harnaamkaur
+ MAIPOILS @maipoils
+ JANUHAIRY @januhairy
PHOTOGRAPHY, INSTAGRAM @QUEEN_ESIE (E. CALIXTE-BEA) & @LEKSENDRINE AND @HAMZA.ABOUELOUAFAA (A. LACELLE)
Esther Calixte-Bea
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Here’s to Celebrating Your Natural Curls DAVID D’AMOURS , hairstylist and Canadian editorial director for KÉRASTASE PARIS , got an
exclusive look at the brand’s new Curl Manifesto line—which celebrates the diversity of natural curls—and took it for a spin with a series of beauty transformations. Here, he takes us behind the scenes of the photo shoot and shares some of his expert tips.
For all types of curls With Curl Manifesto, a new luxury collection that includes eight professional-hair-care products, Kérastase Paris celebrates the beauty of wavy, curly and coily hair and aims to help all women enhance their natural curls. Highlighting diversity, something the brand values, David D’Amours expertly demonstrated how the line’s products work for a variety of curl types, styling five models— Jade, Brunelle, Emma, Robyn and Annaïse—with unique manes.
“I’m proud to have been given the chance to enhance their natural curls and that they were so pleased with the results,” says D’Amours. For each model, the stylist used the Crème De Jour Fondamentale lightweight daily leave-in treatment, which helps
reduce frizz and hydrates and nourishes hair while also providing heat protection. He then applied the Refresh Absolu hydrating, conditioning and curl-defining spray, which gives hair high shine and protects it against humidity for 24 hours. “This product is suitable for quickly touching up all types of curls between washes and revives them in record time,” says D’Amours. To enhance Annaïse’s coily hair and Robyn’s tight curls, the expert reached for the Huile Sublime Repair oil, a multi-use product that strengthens and softens curls while improving scalp health, and the Gelée Curl Contour gel cream, which activates, defines and hydrates curls as well as maintaining their hold and shine for 24 hours.
PHOTOGRAPHY, ROYAL GILBERT; HAIR, DAVID D’AMOURS; MAKEUP, NISHA GULATI; STYLING, EMMANUELLE ROCHON; POST-PRODUCTION, VALÉRIE LALIBERTÉ
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Revealing beauty au naturel The new Kérastase Paris Curl Manifesto collection also includes the Bain Hydratation Douceur shampoo, Fondant Hydratation Essentielle conditioner, Masque Beurre Haute Nutrition mask and Concentré de Forme salon-exclusive nourishing treatment. The line was developed with the help of scientists, expert stylists and consumers. The goal: to create adaptable, customizable and effective routines that address the specific needs of naturally wavy, curly, very curly and coily hair, which are drier, more porous, finer and more fragile than straight hair. At the heart of the formulas of the eight products are key high-quality ingredients—including strengthening ceramides, hydrating manuka honey and hair-defining glycerin—that nourish and fortify all types of curls to give them more defined texture and bring out their beauty. How? By providing them with more hydration and helping reduce breakage and frizz while never weighing the hair down. “Because the products are specifically formulated for curly and coily hair, they are easy to use and provide visible results from the first application,” says D’Amours, who enjoyed their frangipani, tuberose and white-musk fragrance. Aside from ensuring there was real expertise behind the Curl Manifesto line, which combines luxury and performance, Kérastase Paris wanted first and foremost to celebrate curls of all types and help women embrace their natural hair. One look at the pictures from the photo shoot and it’s clear the mission was successful!
JADE
David D’Amours, hairstylist and Canadian editorial director @kerastase_official @daviddamours
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1. Kérastase Bain Hydratation Douceur ($46). 2. Kérastase Fondant Hydratation Essentielle ($49). 3. Kérastase Masque Beurre Haute Nutrition ($72). 4. Kérastase Crème De Jour Fondamentale ($49). 5. Kérastase Huile Sublime Repair ($55). 6. Kérastase Gelée Curl Contour ($49). 7. Kérastase Refresh Absolu ($49).
Visit kerastase.ca for more information on the products or to book a personalized hair consultation in a Kérastase salon near you. #supportlocal
7.
PHOTOGRAPHY, SAMUEL FOURNIER (TEAMM); STYLING, ESTELLE GERVAIS; CREATIVE DIRECTION, ANNIE HORTH; MAKEUP, STEVEN TURPIN
Pullover (COS)
PROFILE
Man
Renaissance
With a career as a Super Bowl-winning football player, a doctorate in medicine from McGill University, a passion for fine art and a new role as ClarinsMen’s brand ambassador, Montreal native LAURENT DUVERNAY-TARDIF is keeping busy—and he wouldn’t have it any other way. By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
If there’s one thing Laurent Duvernay-Tardif hasn’t been in the past year, it’s unemployed. At the start of the pandemic, the talented athlete temporarily stepped away from his role as a guard for 2020 Super Bowl champs the Kansas City Chiefs to put his medical degree to good use at a long-term-care facility in Montreal. It was an experience that, while difficult, was filled with moments of empathy, compassion and self-sacrifice. “I arrived [at the long-term-care facility] seeing nothing but the bad side,” says Duvernay-Tardif. “I had a hard time understanding some of the decisions that were being made by the higher-ups. But what I remember most are the moments of solidarity [with] and dedication from the staff and the little things [we did] that made all the difference for patients, like cutting their nails or helping them connect with their families on FaceTime. That really touched me.” Another job title he took on this year is brand ambassador for ClarinsMen. Duvernay-Tardif chooses his collaborations carefully and was drawn to this one because of the French company’s family values and commitment to social and philanthropic causes. “I keep a running theme in all my partnerships: health,” he says. “In this case, in addition to touching on self-esteem and well-being, Clarins’ products and the science and innovation behind them resonate with that theme. My medical training has given me a thirst to discover why certain plants or extracts have been selected for each formula. Red ginseng, for example, is in ClarinsMen Energizing Gel and Energizing Eye Gel because it has the power to activate cells and cause vasoconstriction.” His interest in skincare is nothing new. In the Chiefs locker room, he was the first person to insist that his fellow players wear sunscreen. “At training camp, we spend hours under a scorching 40˚C sun,” he says. “I’m always saying that we have to take care of our skin and protect it from cancer. It’s the largest organ in the human body, after all!” Concern for others is always top of mind for DuvernayTardif, a man who in many ways is the exact opposite of the stereotypical football jock portrayed in early-aughts romcoms. “I embody masculinity on a healthy spectrum, where there’s room for testosterone, sweat and manliness but also for a more vulnerable and empathetic side,” he says. “This sensitivity is also essential to evolving [the way we practise] medicine.” He also has a deep appreciation for the visual arts, a passion he shares with his girlfriend of 10 years, contemporary-art curator and writer Florence-Agathe Dubé-Moreau. “She introduces me to artists she’s really into and vice versa,” he says. “Before the pandemic, we’d go to galleries and art exhibitions
all the time. The pandemic moved a lot of that online, which, in a way, has broken down borders: Discovering pieces of art on a screen democratizes [access to art] and the discussion around it.” Two artists whose works have touched him in the past year are Montreal painter Nicolas Grenier and Haitian-born, Montreal-based multidisciplinary artist Manuel Mathieu. “We acquired the piece St. Jak by Manuel Mathieu before it was part of his solo exhibition, Survivance, at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts,” says Duvernay-Tardif. The philanthropic couple are also beginning to lend more pieces from their personal collection to museums and galleries around the world. “I take a lot of pride in choosing works by artists who are getting international recognition and, at the same time, being able to see [the work of] artists I’ve followed and supported since the start of their careers evolve in real time,” he adds. Given his various commitments and interests—football, medicine, art, philanthropy and his family’s bakery, Le Pain dans les Voiles—it’s a wonder that Duvernay-Tardif manages to stay balanced. But it’s in this diversity that he finds stability and identity. “Nothing good can come from defining yourself as just one thing because if that one thing collapses, everything goes with it,” he says. “The opposite is also true: If that one thing goes too well, your ego gets inflated and you become completely disconnected. My interests in different fields are in some ways my anchors; they allow me to stay on a healthy path while helping me define my uniqueness.”
Clarins’ new duo has been developed specifically for men with a busy lifestyle and includes red-ginseng and bisongrass extracts to support cellular production in the skin, give it an invigorating boost and leave it hydrated, toned and radiant. The Energizing Gel instantly refreshes, making the skin feel 2˚C cooler, while the Energizing Eye Gel’s threeball applicator massages and aids drainage of the delicate area for an immediate “awake” effect.
From left: ClarinsMen Energizing Gel ($52, clarins.ca); ClarinsMen Energizing Eye Gel ($42, clarins.ca)
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PHOTOGRAPHY, TED BELTON; BLAZER AND SKIRT (COMME DES GARÇONS, AT THE ROOM AT HUDSON’S BAY) AND SHOES (STYLIST’S OWN)
fashion
JULY/AUGUST
Celebrate a summer of freedom, colour and fluid movement.
CELEBRITY
Dress (Salvatore Ferragamo), top (Area) and wig (Achaïa Select)
CANADA’S DRAG RACE SUPERSTAR PRIYANKA WILL HAVE HER CAKE AND EAT IT TOO. BY CHRISTOPHER DIRADDO PHOTOGRAPHER SHAYNE LAVERDIÈRE STYLIST NARIMAN JANGHORBAN CREATIVE DIRECTOR ANNIE HORTH
North Queen ELLECANADA.COM
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bunch of cardboard boxes are piled up against the wall behind Priyanka when I reach her over Zoom. The 30-year-old winner of the first season of Canada’s Drag Race pokes fun at the mess. “My place looks like I’m constantly moving—because I am constantly moving and grooving and taking over the world,” she laughs. Dressed as Mark, her alter ego, in a soft-grey hoodie, she explains that she’s ordering so many wigs these days that the empty boxes just pile up and stare at her. “Pop stars don’t take out their recycling, do they?” she asks, a glint of mischief in her eyes. “Maybe we should just get Robbie in PR to fly to Canada to do it for me.” “Coming off mute for that one,” says Robbie, her publicist, and we all laugh. I’ve only been speaking with Priyanka for a few minutes, but it already feels like she’s an old friend. It was like that as I watched her compete on television 64
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last summer too, when she beat out 11 other girls for the title of “Canada’s First Drag Superstar.” Priyanka gave some of the most compelling confessionals ever seen on the beloved franchise—they were full of energy, wit and emotion. She was also bawdy and self-deprecating, genuine and lovable. And then there were the looks: sparkling and playful creations that never ceased to draw attention to her razor-sharp shoulders and long legs. The camera ate her up like a piece of cake. “Everyone wants their best friend to win,” she says. “And I truly think of myself as the best friend of the world. People liked seeing someone like me win. They saw me fight for the crown. They saw that it wasn’t handed to me. And that’s how I get everything in my life—by falling down and getting back up. Because we saw! We saw how bad I was at Snatch Game!” Priyanka’s impersonation of TV psychic Miss Cleo might have indeed been a flop, but it was her overall
Shirt, bra, skirt, bag and charm bracelet worn on left wrist (Versace), bangles and belt (Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection) and wig (Amber Hilton)
Dress (Faith Connexion), earrings (Mejuri) and wig (Achaïa Select) Opposite: Blazer (Paul Smith, at Holt Renfrew). Below: Corset (Starkers Corsetry) and jeans (Levi’s)
“PEOPLE LIKED SEEING SOMEONE LIKE ME WIN. THEY SAW ME FIGHT FOR THE CROWN. THEY SAW THAT IT WASN’T HANDED TO ME.”
CELEBRITY
“I NAMED MYSELF PRIYANKA SO PEOPLE WOULD KNOW THAT THERE IS AN INDO-QUEER WEST INDIAN QUEEN COMING ONSTAGE—SO THEY KNOW THEY’RE REPRESENTED.”
performance on the show (her fashion choices, comedic chops and humility) that ultimately won over the judges. The first contestant to sashay into the Drag Race “Werk Room”—wearing a pair of shiny thigh-high boots and a large glittery question mark that obscured her face—Priyanka immediately let the world know who she is. “My name is Priyanka—what’s my name?” she hollered, pulling away the punctuation mark. The phrase became a recurring motif over the 10 episodes. It also served as a bookend to the series when she, clad in a resplendent red-and-white Lehenga Choli dress, screamed it one final time while gripping her winner’s sceptre. The repetition was intentional. “I named myself Priyanka so people would know that there is an Indo-queer West Indian queen coming onstage—so they know they’re represented,” she said in the final episode. “That’s the reason I make you scream my name all the time: to make you remember a girl named Priyanka can be successful.” It’s clear from Priyanka’s resumé that she was destined for greatness. In order to appear on Canada’s Drag Race, the Toronto resident had to leave behind an established career in children’s television. As Mark Suknanan, Priyanka had almost a decade of experience in the industry, working her way up from getting coffee for MTV Canada’s Daryn Jones to appearing onscreen as host of YTV’s The Zone. Giving it all up to compete in a drag competition may have been a risk, but it was one she was willing to take. “I wanted to entertain people in a live format because there’s nothing like feeling that audience,” she says. “Talking to a camera about SpongeBob SquarePants wasn’t doing it for me anymore.” Still, a career in drag wasn’t something Priyanka had ever considered until Xtacy Love, a Toronto queen she had hired to perform for her birthday, suggested she try it. “I was like, ‘What? How do you even do that?’” she says. At the time, young Mark had just moved to Toronto’s gay village and would go to the clubs to watch the city’s queens transform into pop stars. “They would make me feel the escape,” she says. “I wanted to make people feel that way too.” Love, her soon-to-be drag mother, encouraged Mark to go to Crews & Tangos on Church Street and compete in a drag contest. “Before I knew it, I was buying wigs and watching makeup tutorials and going to the M•A•C counter to figure out what looks good onstage,” she says. Pretty soon, Priyanka was born—and the city took notice. 68
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Canada’s Drag Race premiered in July 2020, several months into the pandemic, so Priyanka has had few opportunities to perform in front of a crowd since winning her crown. “It’s been a lot better than I thought it was going to be,” she says, reflecting on her big break arriving at the same time as a global crisis. “The pandemic took away our happiness. But a show like Canada’s Drag Race let us see the light at the end of the tunnel. It was like ‘At least we have this. At least we’re all in this together.’” It’s a sentiment I felt too, cheering the girls on week after week in a friend’s backyard as we (socially distanced) watched on a tablet. Priyanka took a similar approach, hosting her own outdoor viewing parties as restrictions eased—and her mom came to most of them. “She was obsessed,” says Priyanka. “She would want to know why I was so bad at a challenge or tell me that she didn’t like an outfit. She still rewatches all the episodes.” Viewers will remember Priyanka revealing on the show that her father had no idea his son was gay or did drag and that she struggled with coming out for the longest time. “Just be gay!” was the tearful message Priyanka had for her younger self in the penultimate episode. Being on the show allowed her to come out to her entire family in one fell swoop. “I was so scared, but I didn’t have to be because they were all so proud that I had taken a leap of faith and won the show,” she says. It was also helpful for Priyanka’s dad to see all the love and support his son was receiving. “My dad is the coolest guy,” she says. “My relationship with him is the same. Nothing has changed.” As bars began to open up last summer, Priyanka was finally able to perform in a few Canadian cities, even headlining a four-city Canada’s Drag Race tour of local drive-ins. Still, it’s not the same as watching your favourite queen shoulder to shoulder with other fans in a packed nightclub. But even as we all wait patiently for things to get back to normal, Priyanka refuses to sit still: She has been busy booking meetings and making things happen since her win. Last month, she launched What’s My Game?, a new web series in which she pits queens against celebrities in trivia faceoffs, and the pop-culture podcast Famous This Week with Canada’s Drag Race judge Brooke Lynn Hytes. She’s also headlining Toronto Pride’s digital parade this summer, and since corporations no longer fear associating their brands with flamboyance, she continues to land huge sponsorship gigs with companies like SodaStream,
Dress (Kenzo) and headpiece (Sorcha O’Raghallaigh)
Dress (Dolce & Gabbana), beret (Berman & Co.), gloves (Wynn by Lynne Weare, shoes (Aldo) and wig (Achaïa Select)
Amazon, Fireball and Bank of Montreal. Her most recent is with Vizzy Hard Seltzer, which also hired her to be the spokesperson and community impact director for its #Vizzybility Project, a new program that provides grants and mentorships to LGBTQ+ artists and creators. Vizzy Hard Seltzer provided the funding for the videos for each of the songs on Priyanka’s debut visual EP, Taste Test. Released in July, the five-song collection is pure pop—fun and catchy with big beats, a ton of heart and empowering lyrics about love, sex and body image. It’s a thoughtful yet banging peek into the diva’s personal life. Priyanka filmed the video for “Cake,” the EP’s lead single, at the majestic Casa Loma in Toronto. The video is kind of a Hunger Games meets The Purge franchise meets Scream mash-up where a fictional government forces a bunch of queens to play 70
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the “Cake Games” and whoever wins gets fame and fortune for the year. She cast a number of her Canada’s Drag Race sisters in the video and was thrilled to be able to showcase them this way. “My intention with these videos is to show the world how awesome we are,” says Priyanka. “We’re so good, and we’re nice about it too! I’ve performed all over the country, and every single bar I’ve walked into has made me feel welcome. And a show like Canada’s Drag Race is turning out Canadian stars. It’s on Crave, so it’s got a mainstream audience. Getting that audience to come out and see you is so important because that’s what being Canadian is all about. We’re not a melting pot; we’re a fruit salad! Our individuality is celebrated, and there’s so much individuality in Canadian drag. There’s something for everyone.”
Dress (Gucci) and wig (Achaïa Select) For details, see Shopping Guide. Makeup, Olivier Vinet (Folio Montreal/ Make Up For Ever); hair, David D’Amours (Folio Montreal/Kérastase); manicurist, Tamara Di Lullo (Folio Montreal/ CND Shellac in Fuji Love and Gala Girl); editorial producer, Estelle Gervais; set coordinator, Laura Malisan; photographer’s assistants, Aljosa Alijagic and Thibaut Ketterer; styling assistant, Manuela Bartolomeo
Trench coat, tank top and shorts (Sportmax) Creative director, Annie Horth
BREATHLESS PHOTOGRAPHER TED BELTON STYLIST SAMUEL FOURNIER
THIS SEASON’S STATEMENT PIECES, SENSUAL TEXTURES AND BOLD PRINTS SPARK PURE JOY.
Windbreaker, T-shirt, purse and scrunchie (Celine)
On Brenda: Dress (Gucci). On Siphe: Blazer, vest, dress shirt, pants and shoes (Gucci).
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Sweatshirt, sweatpants and bag (Balenciaga)
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Top, pants and shorts (Miu Miu)
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Blazer, tank top and headpiece (Chanel)
On Mella: Blazer, pants, necklace, belt, bag and boots (Chanel). On Leo: Jacket (Christian Wijnants), top (Issey Miyake), pants (Comme des Garçons, at The Room at Hudson’s Bay) and shoes (stylist’s own). On Brenda: Blazer, tank top, skirt, headpiece, bag, tights and shoes (Chanel).
On Leo: Trench coat, jacket, dress shirt, turtleneck and pants (Dior Men). On Siphe: Blazer and skirt (Comme des Garçons, at The Room at Hudson’s Bay) and shoes (stylist’s own). On Brenda: Dress (Stella McCartney).
Top, pants and belt (Louis Vuitton)
On Brenda: Top, skirt, necklace, bag and shoes (Versace). On Mella: Blazer, tank top, pants and shoes (Versace).
Windbreaker, T-shirt, shorts, purse, hair accessory on wrist and rain boots (Celine)
Cape (Hyke) and bra, pants and belt (Etro)
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Dress (Proenza Schouler)
Jacket and trousers (Christian Wijnants), shoes (Acne Studios) and earrings (Jenny Bird)
Dress (Issey Miyake)
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Turtleneck, shorts and sandals (Miu Miu) For details, see Shopping Guide. Models, Brenda and Mella (Spot 6 Management), Leo (System Agency) and Siphe; hair, Kirsten Klontz (P1M.ca/Hot Tools and Bellami Hair); makeup, Nicolas Blanchet (Folio Montreal/Dior Beauty); editorial producer, Estelle Gervais; set coordinator, Laura Malisan; photographer’s assistant, Wyatt Lowry; hair assistant, Anna Hans; makeup assistant, Lisa Kolmakova; styling assistant, Alexandra Busgang
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Catit PIXI Smart Fountain and Feeder
Catit PIXI Fountains
With Stainless Steel Top
lifestyle
PHOTOGRAPHY, PATRICK BILLER
County LIVING
Head to PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY this summer for a dreamy rural escape. By TRUC NGUYEN
TRAVEL
Well known for its bucolic landscapes, award-winning wineries and sandy freshwater beaches, this pretty Ontario island is also a must-visit destination for food lovers and design enthusiasts alike. It’s an ideal closer-to-home Canadian getaway that’s equal parts relaxing and inspirational.
STAY
SHOP
There is no shortage of charming shops in the region. KOKITO in Bloomfield is a cut above thanks to its Canadian-made finds like rugs woven from old lobster-trap rope, hand-blown glass vases and locally designed tea towels. In Picton, stop by KEEP for stonewashed-linen sheets or handmade beeswax tapers and visit FIELD MADE GOODS for design-forward ceramics and tabletop and apothecary items by local makers Bethanie Kaye, Cylinder Studio and Sunday’s Company.
DO
An afternoon at the beach is a summer must in Prince Edward County; the island boasts 800 kilometres of shoreline, including a number of publicly accessible beaches: SANDBANKS PROVINCIAL PARK is a hugely popular option; family-friendly OUTLET BEACH and the stunning DUNES BEACH serve up some of the most beautiful freshwater shores in Ontario. + If you’re looking to get away from the
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crowds, NORTH BEACH PROVINCIAL PARK is usually on the mellower side, as is LITTLE BLUFF CONSERVATION AREA in Milford, which also offers crystalclear waters and a cobblestoned beach, a local fave. Pack a picnic—a pre-ordered boxed lunch from Agrarian Market or the house-made curried-chicken salad and some focaccia from Bloomfield Public House Market should do the trick—and spend some time relaxing by the water.
PHOTOGRAPHY, PATRICK BILLER (WANDER) & INSTAGRAM @KEEPCOUNTY (KEEP)
Try to snag one of the 10 striking modern cabins at the newly opened WANDER resort on West Lake. Designed by owner (and interior designer) Shannon Hunter, the spacious accommodations are clad in warm wood and decorated in a Nordic-inspired colour palette. Start each morning with fresh pastries and locally roasted Cherry Bomb coffee on your own private deck—if you can tear yourself away from the luxurious organic Endy linens and handmade Obasan mattress, that is. Then go for a lake swim or take a dip in the resort pool before heading out to explore the nearby villages of Bloomfield and Wellington, where many of the county’s buzziest restaurants and shops are located. If you’re into group activities, Wander also offers a number of events and special programs for guests, including yoga on the beach, local-wine tastings and dinners by guest chefs.
TRAVEL
SEE
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF FLAME + SMITH (DINING ROOM) & SLIGHT PEPPA CARIBBEAN FUSION (FOOD) & ZACHARY SHUNOCK/COURTESY OF OENO GALLERY (PURPLE HEART AND RED GOLD SCULPTURES BY VIKTOR MITIC)
The by-appointment-only OENO GALLERY, located at Huff Estates Winery, displays contemporary art by Canadian and international artists. Recent exhibitions have explored topics ranging from the evolution of the pop-art movement to how artists negotiate themes like migration and socio-politics. Leave some time at the end of your visit to have a wander through the gallery’s 1.6-hectare outdoor sculpture garden, which features a menagerie of colourful works by artists like Viktor Mitic and Shayne Dark.
EAT DRINK It might take you more than a few visits to get through all the wineries, breweries, meaderies and cideries in the county, but here are some places to check out first. In Hillier, TRAYNOR FAMILY VINEYARD offers low-intervention wines, including well-priced piquette, pét-nat and skin-fermented options. Fans of sparkling wines will want to visit HINTERLAND WINE COMPANY for its rosé and Les Etoiles vintages and GRANGE
For weekend brunch, book a table on the patio at the DRAKE DEVONSHIRE—you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, but the buttermilk pancakes and the Drake burger are must-haves— and take in its gorgeous, oftInstagrammed view of Lake Ontario. If it’s a Saturday, set aside some post-meal time since you’re only a few blocks away from the WELLINGTON FARMERS’ MARKET. Open from May until October,
it’s a good spot to get your hands on fresh produce and local treats from vendors like Raining Gold Family Growers, PapaGhanoush & MommaHummus and Kinsip House of Fine Spirits. + FLAME + SMITH in Bloomfield offers a farm-to-table menu with an emphasis on wood-fired cooking. Make sure you have an appetite when you head there for dinner because you’ll want to try everything, from the amberjack crudo with habanero aguachile to the 40-ounce dry-aged tomahawk steak and wood-fired-mushroom salad.
OF PRINCE EDWARD WINERY to stock up on its County Cremant. + If you’re travelling with a group, PRINCE EDDY’S BREWING CO. in Picton has a two-storey tasting room and a spacious patio that often hosts beach volleyball and live music. If you’re lucky, the SLIGHT PEPPA CARIBBEAN FUSION pop-up will be at the brewery, serving up fun goodies like plantain-chip nachos, doubles and rotis. ELLECANADA.COM
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TEXT, JOANNA FOX & EVE THOMAS; PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF MAISON TESS (MAISON TESS), COURTESY OF THE NOVOGRATZ (THE NOVOGRATZ) & CLÉMENT DIETZ (EDITH SEVIGNY-MARTEL)
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PHOTOGRAPHY, SHAYNE LAVERDIÈRE. DRESS (GUCCI) AND WIG (ACHAÏA SELECT)
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HOROSCOPE
CAPRICORN JULY – AUGUST 2021
Cancer JUNE 21 – JULY 22
Some wisdom will be coming your way after you celebrate your birthday. This new understanding might feel like an obstacle, which can be frustrating, but, in hindsight, you’ll see that it’s strangely beneficial. Perhaps it will prevent you from going too fast or too far or from doing too much or not enough—it’s hard to say. But one thing is certain: By the end of July, you will be ready to (re)gain momentum.
Leo JULY 23 – AUGUST 22
Expect a dazzling start to summer that will warm your heart, make that Leo charisma shine and give you energy to spare. The icing on the (birthday) cake? The benevolent influences of the planets will continue until the beginning of the new school year. Make the most of it, but don’t burn yourself out. After all, it’s vacation time! By ALEX VALLIÈRES
VIRGO
AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22 Be flexible! This is the key to flourishing when you’re in love. Focus on your desires without getting defensive, and let your partner express theirs freely. What if they offer you a more exciting adventure than the one you had in mind? If you’re open and adaptable, you’ll be less likely to miss out.
LIBRA
SEPTEMBER 23 – OCTOBER 22 Ready for an amazing challenge? Explore everything that comes your way—even (and especially) what doesn’t immediately appeal to you. Of course, this will take some effort, but by mid-August, you’ll see how events that are a result of your adventurous spirit are linked—in the best possible way.
SCORPIO
OCTOBER 23 – NOVEMBER 21 The arrival of exuberant and generous Jupiter will make you radiate with joy. Totally invigorated, you will be open to all possibilities, even the most unexpected ones. Someone from outside your circle will appear on the scene and broaden your horizons even more. Be on the lookout.
SAGITTARIUS
NOVEMBER 22 – DECEMBER 21 “You must do today what everyone else will do tomorrow.” It’s as if Jean Cocteau was thinking of your exuberant visionary self when he wrote these words. Make this statement your summer mantra. It will give you the desire to change things and make you optimistic about the future.
DECEMBER 22 – JANUARY 19 No longer will you let yourself be overwhelmed by all the drama around you—especially since you’ve had enough of being that friend who quietly listens…for hours. Remember: You have a life too! It’s time to enjoy it without conflict and remorse.
AQUARIUS
JANUARY 20 – FEBRUARY 18 With Saturn receding, it’s time for some self-reflection. It’s not a fun pastime, but the sooner you rethink your priorities and let go of what no longer suits you, the sooner you’ll be ready for what comes next. It will help you to be stronger, freer and more clear-headed.
PISCES
FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20 You feel torn: One part of you craves change and the other wants stability. The surprising lesson from the cosmos? Let your contradictions coexist, and don’t force anything—take an interest in them and what they can teach you. The dominant part of yourself will eventually emerge.
ARIES
MARCH 21 – APRIL 19 Mars and Venus are in your corner right now. Until the end of July, they will fuel your desire to love and make your dreams come true. This inner fire will settle down, however, and afterwards, you will have to deal with situations that are foreign to you. Will it be paradise or will it be hell? That’s up to you.
TAURUS
APRIL 20 – MAY 20 No rest for the serious! This summer, you’ll benefit from examining the choices you’ve made over the past year. How can you make the most of them? And how can you make changes if you didn’t get the satisfaction you’d hoped for? Now is the time to consider these burning questions.
GEMINI
MAY 21 – JUNE 20 July is slowing you down—there are more and more obstacles getting in your way, and your impatience is coming to the forefront. You’re stuck in a kind of grey area that horrifies you, but relax: Things will go back to normal and start moving in the right direction in August. Until then, take a deep breath. ELLECANADA.COM
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ESCAPE
GLOBETROTTER
brand’s pre-fall 2021 collection, showcasing his quintessential ensembles against an international backdrop that has left us with a serious case of wanderlust. Photographer Patrick Welde’s lookbook is a global journey that features iconic ’gram-worthy spots such as the Brabo Fountain in Antwerp, the Eiffel Tower in Paris and the Spanish Steps in Rome. The touristcore aesthetic—the pandemic-induced evolution of normcore that has us all yearning to dress like tourists—is here to remind us, loud and clear, that we will all get to pose in front of famous monuments again one day soon. Here’s to dreaming of hopping on that plane.
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TEXT, ESTELLE GERVAIS; PHOTOGRAPHY, BALENCIAGA
BALENCIAGA CREATIVE DIRECTOR DEMNA GVASALIA has taken us on a world tour with the
LOREM IPSUM
T HE C O OKB O OK
FOR PLENTY OF DELICIOUS, SEASONAL RECIPE IDEAS!
IN B O OK S T ORE S OR AT KO - E DI T I ONS . C A At Olive, we approach salad making with a lot of intention and care. There are always layers of flavour and texture, with an emphasis on balancing all the elements, from hits of acidity to making sure there are enough raw veggies to contrast with those that are cooked. You’ll also always find something that gives you crunch—toasted nuts, savoury granola, croutons or maybe just juicy matchsticks of apple. – Dyan Solomon, chef and owner of Olive + Gourmando restaurant