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WIN A LUXURY SAILING DAY FOR 10 PEOPLE IN CORNWALL

JULY 2021

10 BEST PARADISE ISLAND ESCAPES

TRY REEF DIVING AROUND THE UK

Fine dining on the beach, wildlife wonders and remote boltholes around our shores

OUR GUIDE TO TOP ARTISAN GIN MAKERS BY THE SEA £4.99

DISCOVER SOUTH DEVON SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD FROM MITCH TONKS AND WEEKEND GETAWAYS ON THE COAST

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Are you making the most of your holiday home? Our local team is dedicated to managing your property with the same care and attention you would. With local and enthusiastic teams based near St Agnes and Wadebridge, Cornwall Hideaways are well placed to make the process of sharing your holiday home easy and enjoyable. With tailored services to suit your needs, you can be as involved as you like, knowing that you and your guests are well looked after.

newowners@cornwallhideaways.co.uk 01872 888 631

cornwallhideaways.co.uk Do you own a property elsewhere that you would like to let?

80 CONTENTS

Cover story

JULY 2021

FEATURES

COVER PHOTOGRAPH LUNDY ISLAND/JILL TATE

25 27

ISLANDS SPECIAL An Isle of Wight foodie success story, plus a growing Guernsey garden project 10 BEST PARADISE ISLAND ESCAPES The small islands around our coast offer endless potential for relaxation or adventure – here are 10 to inspire your next holiday ISLANDS OF HOPE Find out all about the UK’s ﬁrst and only marine environment ‘Hope Spot’ – the Argyll Coast and Islands BECOMING AN ISLANDER How a move to the Isle of Wight from London transformed Jenny Stewart’s

life and work – for the better 55 10 ISLAND HOMES FOR SALE We round up some of the current homes available to buy on islands all around the UK 60 LIFTING THE SPIRITS There are plenty of craft gin producers dotted around our islands – we explore some innovators from the Isle of Harris to the Isle of Wight 77 SCENT TO SOOTHE THE SOUL Cornish coast candle-maker St Eval has launched its dreamy new Retreat Collection 79 STUNNING SOUTH DEVON

3 ISSUES FOR £5 SUBSCRIBE TO coast TODAY!

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CONTENTS

JULY 2021 Discover great places for a weekend getaway, and superb seafood 80 HOT HOTEL The Cary Arms Luxury Cottages, South Devon 82 BOATHOUSE BOLTHOLE This Kingswear Estuary holiday home blends into its Devon surrounds to create a serene sanctuary perfect for escaping the hustle and bustle 89 SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD Brixham-based restaurateur and chef Mitch Tonks on why he is such a fan of locally landed ﬁsh 98 COASTAL DISCOVERY William Thomson inspires us with a guide to the amazing reefs we can explore on our shores

HOMES & PROPERTY

69 PROPERTY NEWS How to design 71

a healthy home, plus interesting new developments in Dorset and Cornwall 10 HOMES TO BUY BESIDE THE SEA From a Scottish mansion to a Devon ﬁsherman’s cottage, here’s a selection of the latest seaside homes on the market

REGULARS 8 11 16 19 21 23 104 106 108 114

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PICTURE THIS Going with the ﬂow BEACHCOMBER News, art, food, people, style and events by the sea COASTAL WARDROBE Our stylist chooses the perfect pieces to see you through high summer COAST CHARACTER Holly Madge, Newquay, Cornwall coast COMPETITION Win a day’s sailing experience for a group of 10 people in Cornwall SUBSCRIBE TO coast TODAY! And pay just £5 for your ﬁrst three issues of your favourite magazine SEADOGS Products and holiday ideas for coastal canine owners, plus Dog of the Month YOUR COAST Your letters, tweets and photos… WHERE TO BUY Plus how to contact coast MY COAST Author and ornithologist Dan Rouse on why the glorious Gower beach at Rhossili is her favourite stretch of coastline

c oa st mag azine.co.uk

Imagine... ...escaping here ...working here

...relaxing here

...entertaining here

...waking up here

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Key Features

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Speak to the award-winning experts…

Whether you’re after a dog-friendly break, beachside cottage or luxury family home, we’re sure we have the ideal escape for you. Choose from over 900 coastal, waterside and rural cottages throughout the South West. Considering letting your holiday home? Our experienced team of property managers have the knowledge to ensure that your investment fulfils its potential throughout the year. We’re privately owned and locally based, meaning we’re always on hand to meet owners, advise guests and pop to properties should an issue arise. Call us now for free and honest advice.

For special offers and a free copy of our brochure call us or check out our website.

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ed’s LETTER

WELCOME t’s amazing what a group of positive, like-minded people can do when they get together. Our lovely coast community constantly inspires me, and if you read our Islands of Hope feature (page 39), I’m sure you will be inspired too. With so many negative stories about the environment, it’s great to hear such a positive one, showing that we can make a difference to our marine wildlife, and also sharing how we might do this. If you are part of a community doing similar work in your area, please do email me, I’d love to hear from you! As hotels and restaurants reopen, and we begin to venture out – excited, but also with a little trepidation – it’s good to know there are plenty of amazing places to explore without leaving the country. For those who want to maintain some social distancing, there are wonderful, remote islands where you can holiday in uncrowded locations. Take a look at our 10 Best Paradise Island Escapes (page 27), and consider a stay in a fisherman’s hut on beautiful Lundy, or perhaps have an island to yourself by booking a stay on the Isle of Carna in Western Scotland? Whatever you do this summer, I know you will be feeling as grateful as I am that we live in such a beautiful country, and are lucky enough to have a myriad of interesting places to enjoy and explore every year.

Alex Fisher, Editor-in-Chief @alexﬁshermedia

You can email us at coast coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk. For existing subscription queries, please use the link https://help. kelsey.co.uk. For new subscription offers, go to https://shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/COA. To buy a single issue, go to https://shop.kelsey.co.uk/issue/COA. To receive our free weekly newsletter, sign up at coastmagazine.co.uk/newsletter.

THE CREW This month’s contributors share their coastal musings KEVIN PILLEY For a mercifully short time Kevin was a professional cricketer who became chief staff writer of Punch magazine. His humour, travel, lifestyle and food and drink articles appear in publications worldwide. He has visited most of the UK’s islands and become familiar with their local beverages and bars, and this month writes about island gins (page 60). He’s found that every gin maker has a story to tell and that every gin is unique. In particular, he remembers the laughter and the beauty of places he has visited, such as the Isle of Harris Distillery in the Outer Hebrides.

CAROLINE WHEATER Based in the Kent countryside, Caroline is a freelance journalist whose work has been published in a variety of magazines and newspapers. She’s also coast’s contributing editor and every month learns something notable about the people and the nature that thrive on the edges of the British Isles. On page 39 she describes how Scotland’s Argyll coast and islands, including Jura and Mull, have become beacons of light for marine conservation and for the power of community action, worthy of designation as Britain’s ﬁrst ‘Hope Spot’ by global oceanic charity Mission Blue.

DANIEL KNIGHT Daniel is an aspiring photographer and videographer shooting anything that’s in his way. Raised on the Isle of Wight, he’s an engineer by trade but uses a camera as his creative and artistic outlet. He’s continually searching for ways to improve his compositions, to hone his technical skills and find his place within the photography world. On page 48, his evocative images of island yoga teacher Jenny Stewart are set to inspire us to get fit and flexible. He found working with Jenny a joy as they explored visual concepts together, going with the creative flow.

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PHOTOGRAPH RYAN GLUTZ

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coast PICTURE THIS

GOING WITH THE FLOW

It’s sultry summertime on the Western Yar River in Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight, and while egrets, oystercatchers and curlew hunt for shrimps and shellfish, a stand-up paddleboard session unites a group of yogis. Island-based Jenny Stewart, co-founder of the Balance + Glo yoga and fitness company, runs this seasonal SUP yoga session, and says: ‘It’s magical out there, to be away from everything in a sheltered, shallow spot of the estuary.’ It’s not just the physical aspects of paddling out that are beneficial, but also the sense of calm that descends on the class as Jenny leads them through a sequence. ‘When weather conditions are perfect – no wind and 25˚C – it’s wonderful,’ she adds. Book at balanceandglo.com, and read more about Jenny on page 48 of this month’s coast. c oa st ma ga zi n e .co.uk

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davidballagencies.co.uk

DAVID BALL LUXURY COLLECTION 01637 850850 sales@dba.estate

1 WOODLANDS, PENTIRE CRESCENT Guide price: £1.45M

Located just a stone’s throw from, the famous Fistral beach, this is an idyllic slice of paradise with easy access to one of Cornwall’s most vibrant seaside towns.

ďĝĚ ĜħĤĪģę ƀĤĤħ ĞĨ ĝĤĢĚ ĩĤ ĩĝħĚĚ ĨĪĥĚħÇĠĞģĜ ėĚęħĤĤĢĨ Ėģę ĩĝĚ ŽħĨĩ Ĥě ĩĝħĚĚ ėĖĩĝħĤĤĢĨ ĬĝĞġĚ ĩĝĚ ĨĚĘĤģę ƀĤĤħ ėĤĖĨĩĨ ĩĬĤ ĚģÇĨĪĞĩĚ bedrooms. The master suite includes a freestanding bath and a balcony – the ideal vantage point from which to soak up north þĤħģĬĖġġšĨ ħĚģĤĬģĚę ŽĚħĮ ĨĪģĨĚĩĨ

ĎĥħĚĖę ĖĘħĤĨĨ ĩĝħĚĚ ƀĤĤħĨ ĩĝĚ ĝĚĖħĩ Ĥě ĩĝĚ ĝĤĢĚ ġĞĚĨ Ĥģ ĩĝĚ ŽħĨĩ ƀĤĤħ ĬĝĚħĚ ƀĤĤħÇ to-ceiling windows complement an openplan reception room, dining and kitchen area. Here, there is an overwhelming sense of sophisticated comfort, encouraged by ĝĞĜĝÇĨĥĚĘĞŽĘĖĩĞĤģ ĖĥĥġĞĖģĘĚĨ Ėģę ġĪĭĪħĮ ĪģęĚħƀĤĤħ ĝĚĖĩĞģĜ

erched atop the Gannel Estuary, with unrivalled coastal views, this brand new property epitomises the best of contemporary living. Designed with both privacy and luxurious living in mind, the property sits behind a gated entrance within 1.2 acres of private communal gardens, complete with a kayak shed, outdoor shower and low-level lighting to guide you through the grounds.

A brand new home with access to a private beach.

contemporary

CORNISH

P RO P E RT Y

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •

BEACHCOMBER

Every month, we trawl the nation’s coastline to bring you news of the people, places and exciting goings-on that are worth knowing about

FIND OF THE MONTH Perfect for outdoor dining, these ﬁsh-inspired napkins and placemats will add a stylish edge to a coast-themed dinner party. Cinque Terre table runner, £50; set of 4 Cinque Terre placemats, £50; set of 4 Cinque Terre napkins, £50 (ellelyne.com) coa stm a ga zin e.co.uk

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• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •

CATCH OF THE DAY 1 THIS LEMON SQUEEZER The perfect gadget when adding zing to salads and cocktails this summer, this stainless steel squeezer makes juicing citrus fruits a doddle. Designed by Rick Stein, it comes in a set of two (£10, uniqueandunity.co.uk).

2 THIS CANISTER

3 THIS DECKCHAIR

4 THIS BOTTLE

Squirrel away sweeties in this stylish canister, made from high-fired porcelain with a gloss glaze. The Vice Collection also features ‘Peace, ‘Love’ and ‘Woof’ in a range of coloured stripes (£128, uk.jonathanadler.com).

Adorned with shells or fish, a Scraffito deck chair will make a handsome addition to your garden or beach picnic this summer. Made in Britain from oiled Merpauh wood and canvas sail cloth (£149, perkinsandmorley.com).

The all-new Klunken water bottle is a collaboration between Swedish maker Primus and sister brand Fjällräven, designed to perfectly fit in the iconic Kånken backpack (£27/0.7L, primus.eu/klunken).

WHAT’S FLOATING YOUR BOAT? Let us know on our Facebook page, facebook.com/coastmagazine, or email us at coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk

MORE THAN A SWIM British brand More than Swim is making waves in sustainable fashion. Founded by designer Sandra Palmer, the range comprises ethically made swimsuits and bikinis to ﬁt and ﬂatter all body sizes. Made using eco-friendly inks, each swimsuit is cut to size to reduce waste and features colourful, endangered species prints such as sea turtles and leopard prints. For every online sale, Sandra makes a donation to charity Plastic Oceans UK (morethanswim.com).

PLASTIC PHOTOGRAPH MARINE CONSERVATION SOCIETY SWIMWEAR PHOTOGRAPH FELICIASEWERINSSON.COM

Message in a bottle

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Eight-year-old litter hero Rayer Waddell is joining the MCS to call on the government to introduce a Deposit Return Scheme for drinks containers. Rayer has been cleaning beaches since she could walk and has collected more than 300,000 plastic bottles. A Deposit Return Scheme involves paying a small deposit on top of the price of a drink. When ﬁnished, the container would be broght to a collection point, and the deposit returned. See mcsuk.org/clean-seas/drs.

c o ast ma gazin e.co.uk

BOOK of the MONTH

Weather with you Checking our phones for tomorrow’s forecast has become an everyday part of life, but what if we could learn how to read the skies, clouds and waves for ourselves? Nature expert and writer Tristan Gooley’s latest book might help. From how to predict when fog will clear to understanding where the breeze will come from when you’re sailing out at sea, he helps us to tune in to the secret world of weather that surrounds us and teaches us how to become captain, if not of our own ships, then at least our daily ventures in the great outdoors. The Secret World of Weather by Tristan Gooley (£20, hardback, Sceptre).

• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •

DISH OF THE MONTH

Pan-fried Dover Sole • Dover Sole, skin and outer scales removed (Alternatively use Megrim or Plaice) • Flour for dusting • Sunﬂower oil • 200g Cornish butter, cut into small cubes • 2 tbsp nonpareille capers • 50g brown shrimps • 2 tbsp dried Nori

seaweed, crumbled to a powder • 1 lemon, juice only • ½ small bunch of ﬂat leaf parsley, ﬁnely chopped • Sea herbs, to garnish • Crisp mixed leaf salad and sourdough bread, to serve

Method (serves 2) 1. Place a large frying pan over a medium heat. Lightly dust the Dover Sole in flour, drizzle the pan with some oil and place the fish in the pan, front side up. Cook for 3-4 minutes and add 150g of the butter. 2. Turn the fish over, baste with the melted butter, and continue cooking for 6-8 minutes. Once the fish is cooked, remove from the pan, place onto a warm plate to keep warm. 3. To finish, place the frying pan back on the hob with the capers, brown shrimp, seaweed, lemon juice and chopped parsley along with the remaining butter and cook through. 4. Remove from the heat and spoon the mixture over the Dover Sole, garnish with the sea herbs and serve with a crisp mixed leaf salad and slices of sourdough bread. Recipe & Photograph: derkern.miele.co.uk

Cream of the crop Islanders on Sark – the smallest of the Channel Islands known for its unspoilt beauty, horse-drawn carriages and profusion of wildflowers – are in the early stages of setting up their first community dairy farm in a bid to realise a more self-sufficient and sustainable future for the island. Led by farmers Jason and Katherine Salisbury, the small start-up will begin with a herd of 16 Guernsey cows, 16 milkers and 500 residents. To donate to the Sark Dairy crowd-funder, which will help take the project forward, visit sarkdairytrust.com.

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• SHOPPING • EVENTS • PEOPLE • PLACES • CULTURE • NEWS • WILDLIFE •

GALLERY OF THE MONTH Blackbird Ceramics, Pembrokeshire

ged 50, Richard Prentice knew he had reached a ‘now or never’ moment to try and achieve a lifelong dream of becoming a ceramicist. His tiny gallery, a beautifully restored 19th-century chemist’s in Saundersfoot, is proof that dreams can come true. His exquisite handmade collection includes sea globes – finely crafted spherical domes made from earthenware, fired many times for a unique, abstract glaze reflective of the surrounds on the Pembrokeshire coastal path – fine bone china lidded sea urns that take inspiration from ancient spice jars complete with

PENDINE PHOTOGRAPHS DISCOVER CARMARTHENSHIRE GALLERY PHOTOGRAPHS RICHARD PRENTICE/BLACKBIRD CERAMICS

sea anemone-styled fronds; characterful, hand-painted tulip vases made from stoneware clay, and a select line of functional tableware including delicate dipping bowls and espresso cups. Find out more and browse at blackbirdceramics.co.uk.

Sands of speed A state-of-the-art hostel with sea views, dune gardens and an adventure play area are all part of the new Sands of Speed Museum set to open this autumn on Pendine, the second longest beach in Wales. The £7m museum will replace the original Museum of Speed, taking guests on an interactive journey – from the tragic 1927 crash of racing car Babs to records achieved by actor Idris Elba in 2015. Visitors can test their own strength by racing to beat motorcyclist Guy Martin’s 2013 record on a simulator.

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coast FASHION

HIS COASTAL WARDROBE

Festivals may still be thin on the ground, but the vibe is alive in fashion stylist Polly Banks’ pick of chilled options for the coast this summer

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1 Peace sign tee, £40, Stussy at Couverture & The Garbstore 2 Peace sweatshirt, £95, TSPTR at Couverture & The Garbstore 3 Stanley X Danner ﬂask, £50.26, Danner 4 Jag Low hiking trainers, £99.99, Danner 5 Trucker wallet, £76, Danner 6 Havana double pleat trousers, £155, Albam 7 Mountain Pass hiking boots, £286, Danner 8 Z Patchwork check shorts, £125, YMC For where to buy, see Stockists, page 108

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coast FASHION

HER COASTAL WARDROBE

Get into your holiday stride with a selection of clothes and accessories to ﬂoat you through high summer, chosen by fashion stylist Polly Banks

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1 Alden satin maxi dress, £200, Aspiga 2 Gingham Sundt bucket hat, £110, Holzweiler 3 Kiera hand-embroidered cotton top, £175, Aspiga 4 Alie short pink jacket, £125, Napapijri 5 Wool linen easy cardigan, £140, Toast 6 Heirloom plaited slides, £145, Toast 7 Harem trousers in Willow Leaf, £50, Aspiga 8 Ikat Kantha bag, £120, Toast For where to buy, see Stockists, page 108

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Call Just Shutters today on

0345 894 0700

01538 371471

coast@scabetti.co.uk

scabetti.co.uk

Image shows a Shoal388 in a private residence in Nantucket, USA. Photography by Barbara Clarke.

s r e tt u h S that inspire

justshutters.co.uk

COAST CHARACTER Professional percussionist Holly Madge toured the world before settling in North Cornwall, where her new passion for fashion ﬂourishes under the Sailaway Dress Company label WORDS LUCY JENNER-BROWN

rowing up in the middle of Devon meant that going to the coast was always a treat, with Sunday walks on the beach and family holidays spent at Polzeath on the north coast of Cornwall. After years cutting my teeth as a musician in London I craved the live-by-nature lifestyle of the West Country and with my boyfriend Louie, now husband, already living in Truro, it was an easy move to Cornwall. My work means I spend a lot of time travelling, but there is nothing sweeter than coming home to our house by Fistral Beach in Newquay. For me, Newquay is unique in its openness to new ideas. In the aftermath of the infamous stag and hen-do years, our town seems less overly protective of

PHOTOGRAPH ADJBROWN.COM

its traditional reputation than other areas of Cornwall and is thriving as a result, with plastic-free shops, independent health food stores, artisan coffee shops and a plethora of small businesses that have sustainability at their core, and they often preserve old landmark buildings in the process too. My own business, the Sailaway Dress Company, was born from my love of feminine clothes for adventurous people. With Cornwall’s changeable weather and endless opportunities for fun, I relied on key pieces to take me from a day at the beach to an evening out without having to change or over-think my wardrobe. On a tour of India (I’m a drummer by trade) I stumbled across the exact dress to deliver that and after testing it on friends, found

I wasn’t the only one digging it. The dresses roll up to nothing and are made of durable fabric, so they travel well and can live in your handbag ready for whatever. As a musician I’m not trained in sales or fashion, but I have faith in a product that’s tried and tested, brings smiles to faces and makes people feel fabulous. I find Newquay to be a sweet spot for a blend of traditional community values, a lifestyle dictated by nature, and a refreshing enthusiasm for progression. We are spoilt with the range of beaches within walking distance and the delicious local food on offer. It’s vibrant, friendly and full of life, with a passionate community at its core. Find out more about Holly’s dress collection at sailawaydresscompany.com.

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S ELLI NG HO M ES THAT FU LFIL Y O UR LI FES TY LE WHITSAND BAY, CORNWALL – THE ULTIMATE LIFESTYLE OPPORTUNITY IN A “WORLD CLASS” WATERFRONT LOCATION - Spacious south facing residence with multi award winning restaurant (50 covers) in a prized Cornish seaside setting and commanding an extraordinary 180 degree panorama over the shimmering azure blue waters of Whitsand Bay. RESIDENCE - About 2000 sq ft, 27’ O/P Living Room/ Kitchen, 500 sq ft Roof Terrace, Snug, 5 Double Bedrooms, 2 Bath/Shower Rooms. RESTAURANT - About 1488 sq ft, Approx 50 Covers plus Outside Dining Terrace, Fully Equipped Kitchen, Prep Rooms and Stores, Ladies and Gents WC’s, Large Carpark, Private Gardens with Summerhouse and Shed. About 0.5 Acre. EPC – E.

Guide £1,500,000

COASTAL SOUTH EAST CORNWALL IS AN OFTEN OVERLOOKED PART OF THE CORNISH RIVIERA, KNOWN TO SOME AS “THE FORGOTTEN CORNER”. COME AND DISCOVER YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF OUR WONDERFULLY IDYLLIC COASTLINE. From the rugged and romantic moorland of Bodmin Moor and the verdant valleys of the Rivers Tamar and Fowey to the beautiful coastline of the Cornish Riviera, our experience and depth of knowledge provides clients and buyers alike with an estate agency experience which breaks with tradition, we provide candid opinion and fresh-faced enthusiasm for our property stock and our location.

www.scottparry.co.uk

01752 858314

sales@scottparry.co.uk

scott.parry.associates

coast COMPETITION

WIN A DAY SAILING TRIP FOR 10 IN CORNWALL This month, coast has teamed up with Charlestown Harbour to offer a group of 10 a private day sailing experience and waterside meal at HarbourQ

ANNY PHOTOGRAPH PHOENIXLIBRA PHOTOGRAPHY

tep aboard Anny of Charlestown, a traditional 1930s Topsail Schooner for a private group day sailing experience exploring Cornwall’s beautiful south coast, as a group of family and friends, after months apart. Charlestown Harbour is a UNESCO World Heritage site, the UK’s only open 18th-century Georgian harbour and a popular ﬁlming location for the small and silver screen. Aspiring mariners can learn to hoist the sails, trim the rig, take the wheel and set a course to explore picturesque St Austell Bay – while those with leisurely intentions can sit back, soak in the views and keep an eye out for basking sharks, seals and

even dolphins. A hot lunch is served on deck with a glass of wine, before the cruise continues in the afternoon. Once back on dry land, it’s time for a delicious outdoor meal at HarbourQ, within the historic inner harbour. This barbecue pop-up serves the best local produce, cooked over fire. Expect meltin-your-mouth BBQ flavours: slowcooked meat, fish and veggie specials with pickles, sauces and flatbreads – washed down with a choice of drinks including its own HBQ Pale Ale or new frozen margaritas. For more information on Charlestown and HarbourQ, please visit charlestownharbour.com.

YOUR PRIZE A group of 10 guests will enjoy a private Cornish day sailing experience, including lunch, aboard a traditional wooden sailing boat, followed by a meal at HarbourQ in Charlestown Harbour, Cornwall.

HOW TO ENTER Please go to the competition page at coastmagazine.co.uk and answer this question by 31 July: Which historical period is Charlestown Harbour best known for? A) Victorian B) Georgian C) Tudor

TERMS AND CONDITIONS The prize includes: a 6-hour group day sailing experience on aboard Anny of Charlestown – departing from and returning to Charlestown Harbour, Cornwall, (the group will be taken via transfer boat from the harbour to board Anny). Lunch for each person, served on the upper deck, including one glass of wine or a soft drink alternative. Dinner for each person at HarbourQ to which includes one main meal and one drink (alcoholic or non-alcoholic) of their choosing – all sides, deserts and additional drinks must be paid for in full). Prize is valid from August 2021-August 2022, excluding bank holidays and is subject to availability. The prize is weather-dependent and sailing may be rescheduled in the case of unsafe conditions – in this event the prize will remain valid and redeemable on another arranged date. The prize cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. The prize may be subject to Covid-related restrictions for safety. The prize does not include guest travel and personal insurances. If, due to circumstances beyond their control, Charlestown Harbour and HarbourQ are unable to provide the stated prize, they reserve the right to award a substitute prize of equal or greater value. By entering the competition, you have the legal capacity to do so and agree to these terms and conditions. No travel to Cornwall is included. Entries close at midnight on 31 July. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Entry is free. Open to residents of the UK aged over 18. Employees of Kelsey Media, Charlestown Harbour, HarbourQ and their family members are not eligible to win. Only one entry permitted per person, no bulk entries will be accepted. The first correct entry drawn after the closing date will win. Our winner will be notified within 28 days. If our winner fails to respond after three attempts at contact, a new winner will be drawn. There is no cash alternative and the prize is not transferable. If any prize or product is lost or damaged during the course of delivery to the recipient, Kelsey Media will provide reasonable assistance in seeking to resolve the problem. However, it will not always be possible to obtain replacements for lost or damaged goods, and in that event, no financial compensation would be payable by Kelsey Media or its affiliates. We reserve the right to cancel the competition, if circumstances change that are beyond our control. coast is a Kelsey Media brand. Here at Kelsey Media we take your privacy seriously and will only use your personal information to provide the products and services you have requested from us. We will only contact you with news and special offers via the preferences you have indicated. We will never share your information with any third party without your consent. You can view our full Privacy Policy at kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy.

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LIVE THE COASTAL DREAM Discover Your Perfect Home By The Sea Prices from £310,000 Homes ready to move in to

THE COURTYARD AT DUPORTH Set around a communal courtyard and Grade II listed clock tower, The Courtyard features thirty-eight 2 & 3 bedroom homes situated above a secluded beach overlooking St Austell Bay and less than a mile from the picturesque village of Charlestown. The Courtyard is an age exclusive development for over 55s where each home has been thoughtfully laid out and designed to a high speciﬁcation. Show Home open by appointment Ask us about Assisted Move*

Coming Soon Register your interest

Prices from £725,000 Houses are 75% sold

THE PADSTOW COLLECTION

TREGLOS, CONSTANTINE BAY

A unique scheme of just ten 2 & 3 bedroom apartments set in the heart of Padstow, a short ride across the Camel Estuary from Rock.

A beautiful collection of 2, 3 & 4 bedroom apartments, duplexes and houses set in the highly desirable area of Constantine Bay, just 4 miles from Padstow.

Sought-after town centre location Harbour and estuary views

A short walk to both Constantine Bay Beach and Trevose Golf & Country Club

Private outdoor space

Private outside space and surf storage Featuring sea views

For more information and to discover further coastal developments in Newquay, Exmouth and Falmouth visit www.acornpropertygroup.org or call 020 3858 0518

Computer generated images & photography for illustrative purposes only. Prices correct at time of print. *Assisted Move terms and conditions apply, speak to the Sales Advisor for more details.

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ISLANDS SPECIAL

With over 6,000 islands making up the British Isles, there is a wealth of wonder to discover around our shores. Welcome to our Islands Special WORDS CAROLINE WHEATER

ZEST FOR FLAVOUR A decade ago, Nuala Grandcourt started making a simple salad dressing in the kitchen of her cottage in Gurnard on the Isle of Wight. Using locally produced rapeseed oil, it was a real hit with people and encouraged her to devise other dressings, drizzles, marinades and fruit vinegars under the brand Wild Island. Now, the gourmet company’s reputation has spread to the mainland and the range is made in a commercial kitchen space in Newchurch. The philosophy remains exactly the same, however – small batches made with a blend of natural ingredients, with no artiﬁcial additives. Blackberry Balsamic Dressing, a winner of a coveted two-star Great Taste Award, is a favourite, along with Rosemary & Garlic Dressing and Marinade, Chilli Cherry Drizzle, and Lemongrass & Ginger Chilli Oil, prices from £7.40/ 250ml. A gift pack costs £12.50 (wildislandstore.co.uk).

FLOWERS FOR A FRENCH AUTHOR Victor Hugo, author of Les Misérables, spent 15 years on Guernsey in exile from France. He lived at Hauteville House in St Peter Port, where a glazed ‘look-out’ provided views to the Normandy coast, and a sun-filled garden was planted with roses, wallflowers, lilies, hollyhocks, periwinkle, trees and shrubs. He believed everything had a soul and pleaded for nature to be treated gently to maintain the balance of the natural world. Today, Hugo’s affinity with nature and his deep plant knowledge is celebrated in Candie Gardens, St Peter Port’s public park, where a new garden has been created in his honour. Designed by Raymond Evison, the Chelsea gold medal-winning nurseryman and Guernsey resident, it’s divided into three areas – cottage, veg and wild – to showcase plants Hugo particularly loved or wrote about. The garden, created by island volunteers during the pandemic, is the latest stop in the Victor Hugo Trail being developed in stages. Find out more at victor hugoinguernsey.gg, and plan a trip at visitguernsey.com.

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10 BEST

PARADISE ISLAND ESCAPES The many small islands around our coast offer a balm to the bustle of everyday life – packed with fascinating wildlife, secret paths, hidden coves and high adventures at sea WORDS JESSIE JOHNSON

PHOTOGRAPH ISLE OF CARNA

ISLE OF CARNA, WEST SCOTLAND

Ever dream of staying on your own secluded island? The Isle of Carna is an historic 600-acre oasis, home to otters, eagles, orchids and just three houses. While there are no sandy beaches, family-run Carna House (sleeping 8) and Carna Cottage (sleeping 6) are idyllic bases from which to explore the teeming wildlife, hills, mountains and gaze at the vast, starry skies. New to the island’s ongoing conservation work this year, guests are invited to take part in the ‘Soil and Earthworm survey’ and, if the ﬂora and fauna of the island really captures your imagination, there’s a chance to make a return visit as part of month-long conservation working holidays in winter. Prices for a three-night break start from £850 (isleofcarna.co.uk).

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LUNDY, DEVON

Sparkling clear waters, kelp forests, shipwrecks and an abundance of marine life make Lundy’s Marine Protected Area one of the UK’s ﬁnest diving sites with up to 2,500 sea creatures to be found in every square metre of seabed. After an underwater exploration, decamp to Hanmers, a century-old, weatherboarded ﬁsherman’s hut (sleeping 4) built on the path between the beach and the castle, boasting sea views to take your breath away. Prices for a four-night stay start from £391(landmarktrust.org.uk/ lundyisland).

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OSEA ISLAND, ESSEX

If you want luxury and you’re willing to splash out, look no further than Osea Island. Surrounded by 550 acres of meadows and centuries-old salt marsh, the grand Captain’s House (sleeping 22) is one of several swanky houses and beach cottages available to rent out for a special occasion. Think roll-top baths, four-poster beds, open fires and antique furnishings married with the simple joy of a bike ride to the quay for fresh oysters, spying kestrels and cormorants, before catching an old film at the on-site cinema with a woodfired pizza, surrounded by all your favourite people. A six-night stay at the Captain’s House starts from £17,940, approximately £136pp, per night (oseaisland.co.uk).

ISLE OF MAN

Situated between England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland, the Isle of Man has long danced to its own drum, packed with all kinds of family adventures featuring sweeping beaches, mountainous trails, coasteering, trips to the spooky dungeons of Peel Castle and Castle Rushen, once home to the King and Lords of Mann. Soak up an island escape from the lofty heights of the Lighthouse

ABOVE Live the luxe life on Osea Island BELOW Stay in Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage on the Isle of Man

Keeper’s Cottage (sleeps 10) which has its own garden, a courtyard area for kids to play in safely and a jetty, just a short walk from the capital, Douglas. Fitted with all mod cons, a welcome pack includes artisan goodies including local meats, honey and cheeses. Prices start from £280 per night (thecottageagents.com).

For adventure-seekers and foodies alike, The Ultimate Jersey BBQ Package from The Club Hotel & Spa combines a one-night stay with an al fresco dining experience like no other. The day starts with an accompanied kayaking trip that takes guests on a breathtaking exploration along Jersey’s east coast. From there, it’s a visit to the Écréhous, a cluster of tiny, picturesque islands off where, on a secluded islet beach, your own private chef from Michelin-starred restaurant, Bohemia, awaits with a threecourse lunch and ﬁne wines. Priced from £1,999 for two, including an overnight stay and breakfast (theclubjersey.com).

ISLE OF MAN PHOTOGRAPH SUSAN BALLESTEROS 30 C OA S T

JERSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS

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ST MARY’S, ISLES OF SCILLY

ST MARY’S PHOTOGRAPHS WHEELHOUSE B&B

From boat trips and beachcombing to kayaking and sandy picnics, the Enid Blyton-esque thrills of an island-hopping holiday don’t get better than a trip to the stunning Isles of Scilly. The award-winning Wheelhouse B&B is sited on the sands of Porthcressa Beach and offers a mix of single, twin and double rooms, most with breathtaking sea views. Potter about the lounge, terrace and garden, or cook up the day’s itinerary over a breakfast of eggs and kippers – every morning local boatman Paul Smith visits the B&B with news of the latest boat trips to nearby islands. Prices for a week’s stay start from £120 for a Sea View double room including breakfast (thewheelhousescilly.co.uk). Travel to St Mary’s from the mainland with Penzance Helicopters in just 15 minutes (book at penzancehelicopters. co.uk or call 01736 780828).

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PHOTOGRAPH CHERRY TREE & ALMOND APARTMENTS

LINDISFARNE, NORTHUMBERLAND

An island that can only be accessed by a causeway, cut off twice a day by the tides, already has us packing our bags, following in the footsteps of ancient monks who set up their priory here nearly 1,400 years ago. The Belvue Guest House offers a warm welcome for modern-day pilgrims to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. Two king-size luxury studios come with a kitchenette and feature crisp white sheets and rainfall showers along with a budget ‘no frills’ room kitted out with two single beds. Prices for a luxury room start from £119 per night (holy-island.uk).

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ABOVE & BELOW The Braye Beach Hotel on the low-profile Channel Island of Alderney is a lovely spot to spend some time relaxing and recharging

BARDSEY ISLAND, NORTH WALES

Dream away the summer on small, but perfectly formed, Bardsey Island. Known as the ‘Island of 20,000 Saints’ and the ﬁnal destination of the North Wales Pilgrims Way, the wildlife-rich ˆ island sits about two miles off the Llyn Peninsula, home to choughs, pufﬁns, grey seals and Manx shearwaters. Semi-detached farmhouse, Nant (sleeping 6) is one of nine Grade II-listed boltholes available to hire through the Bardsey Island Trust. Families or larger groups can book the property with neighbouring house, Hendy (sleeping 7), and enjoy foraging for blackberries and raspberries in the sheltered garden. Prices for a week’s stay start from £365 (bardsey.org).

CLARE ISLAND, CO MAYO

The largest island in Clew Bay measuring ﬁve miles long by three miles wide, Clare Island is characterised by sandy beaches, dramatic sea cliffs and a rich archaeological past. Macalla Farm is a small, family-run yoga and meditation retreat centre and a working

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organic farm that offers visitors the chance to leave behind the stresses of modern life and, instead, tune into body, breath and mind. Retreats for summer include a Sati Yoga Weekend (30 July2 August) and Mindfulness for Yoga Teachers (6-13 August) and costs include accommodation and all meals, made with organic, plant-based ingredients grown on the farm. For prices and to ﬁnd out more information, visit macallafarm.ie.

ALDERNEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS

Ditch the car and walk or pedal some of the 50 miles of winding lanes and country paths that make up the charming island of Alderney. The four-star Braye Beach Hotel is perched, yep, right on the sands, and offers old-school charm – from its bright, beachy bedrooms to the Beach Bar & Terraces and Brasserie. Newly refurbished, The Vaults serves up steaks, wine and cocktails alongside the more formal Seaview Restaurant, which features freshly landed ﬁsh. Prices for a three-night break this summer start from £405 based on two people sharing (brayebeach.com).

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A WELCOME ESCAPE, SO CLOSE TO HOME

Fancy getting away this summer but don’t want to venture too far? The Isle of Man is waiting to welcome you with its wide-open natural spaces and myriad adventures

f you’ve never been to the Isle of Man, you don’t know what you’re missing. Located in the heart of the Irish Sea, this beautiful island is just a short ﬂight or ferry trip from the UK and Ireland, and truly offers something for everyone. The island’s diverse landscape offers a unique getaway that encompasses all you’ll need for a break from everyday life. Rolling glens unfold into stunning

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beaches in the blink of an eye, and whether you’re looking for a hiking getaway in the great outdoors or to enjoy clear, starry skies in one of the island’s 26 accredited Dark Skies Discovery Sites, its beauty provides the perfect retreat from life’s daily distractions.

WANDER IN WONDER The Isle of Man offers some of the best

coastal walking in the British Isles including its long-distance way-marked trail, the Raad ny Foillan. Whether you’re a keen rambler or simply enjoy a leisurely stroll, there’s a range of footpaths and tracks for you to explore. Be spoilt for choice from a number of self-guided walks, all searchable by their level of difﬁculty, length and location. Discover routes that run alongside old railway

coast ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE EXPLORE THE RAAD NY FOILLAN COASTAL FOOTPATH For the more experienced walker the Raad ny Foillan (Manx Gaelic for ‘The Way of the Gull’) is the Isle of Man’s premier long-distance footpath. At almost 100 miles in length, it provides the perfect opportunity to walk around a complete nation. As the path winds its way along the island’s coastline, you will ﬁnd a wealth of places to go and things to see and do; discover castles, enjoy unexpected encounters with local wildlife, take part in many activities or explore the beaches you will ﬁnd along the way. It’s a highly rewarding adventure with some phenomenal views that really vary as you make your way around the island.

LEFT The Isle of Man offers splendid seascapes whether you want a gentle stroll or a long-distance hike ABOVE Evening light at Cronk ny Arrey Laa BELOW You’ll see Castle Rushen, and plenty of wildlife such as seals and shags, as you explore the island

tracks, through enchanting glens or close by heritage attractions – such as the Great Laxey Wheel or Peel Castle. Or, cover even more ground by hopping on and off the island’s three charming heritage railways – the Isle of Man Steam Railway, Manx Electric Railway and Snaefell Mountain Railway – with a choice of Railway Rambles.

DISCOVER A RICH HISTORY When it comes to a fascinating history and culture, the Isle of Man certainly has it all: culture, castles, monuments and botanical gardens; it’s an island shrouded in folklore, myth and heritage. Step back in time and piece together the history of the British Isles’ best-kept secret. Follow in the footsteps of Norse kings in the hallways of Castle Rushen at the old island capital Castletown, unearth history at Viking burial sites, and journey back through the Isle of Man’s Celtic and maritime past. Immerse yourself in the many museums and landmarks following your own path of rediscovery, or join a guided tour to ﬁnd out some insider knowledge on Manx heritage.

RECHARGE AND RECONNECT With the idyllic Manx countryside, extensive coastline and beautiful bays, the Isle of Man is a wonderful place to recharge and reconnect with a loved one over a delicious afternoon tea made using some of the island’s exquisite local produce. For a traditional afternoon tea, Milntown Café in the north of the island comes highly recommended, with some wonderful views of both its Walled Garden and famous Winchester gates. Set in 15 acres of gardens and woodlands, the Milntown Estate is a great place to spend an afternoon. Or, if you’re after high tea with a twist, why not add a glass of champagne to your afternoon tea at The Abbey in Ballasalla. Set in green and luscious surroundings with mature trees, a babbling stream and an ancient monastery for company, inside you will ﬁnd an assortment of spaces, each with their own personality, yet a sense of wellbeing pervades throughout. Plan your escape to the Isle of Man now at: visitisleofman.com.

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coast ISLANDS

ISLANDS OF HOPE Safeguarded by community volunteers, the Marine Protected Area around the Argyll coast and islands teems with marine life, so much so that global oceanic charity Mission Blue has designated it the UK’s ﬁrst and only ‘Hope Spot’ WORDS CAROLINE WHEATER

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ne afternoon, while overlooking the majestic Sound of Jura from his home on the Argyll coast, marine volunteer John Aitchison took out a telescope to watch for harbour porpoises. Over an hour-and-a-half, the award-winning wildlife filmmaker and chairman of the Friends of the Sound of Jura counted not five, not 15, but 50 of these charming, short-nosed cetaceans, clustered in small groups. ‘It’s one of the best places in Europe to see harbour porpoises, shy animals that keep themselves to themselves,’ says John, adding, ‘we also have common and bottlenose dolphins in the Sound and humpback whales in the Sound of Mull nearby.’ Jura, a rugged, glacier-formed scrap of an island – home to just 200 people, 6,000 red deer and a tribe of otters and seals – is part of the Inner Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland. Along with its more famous neighbour, Mull, and the finger-like lochs of the Argyll coast – Lochs Sween, Creran and Sunart – it belongs to one of the richest and most biodiverse marine environments in the UK, second only to the

ABOVE The waters around Jura, Mull and the Argyll coast are some of the most richly diverse marine environments in the UK

MAIN PHOTOGRAPHS JOHN AITCHISON UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHS MARK WOOMBS 40 C OA S T

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waters of far-flung St Kilda in the Outer Hebrides. Here, in this Marine Protected Area, you’ll find sheltered inlets and salt-water lochs, sea valleys up to 200m deep, kelp forests where otters hunt for prey, and seagrass meadows that nurture juvenile fish and sequester carbon.

SECRETS OF BIODIVERSITY ‘The variety of landscape and the complex seabeds are the reason for the biodiversity,’ explains John. ‘We’re on the same latitude as Labrador, where they have icebergs, but because of the Gulf Stream the Argyll coast and islands is a very habitable place for marine life.’ Fierce winter storms play their part too, stirring up nutrients in the sea, which are then absorbed by phytoplankton, triggering an enormous bloom of aquatic plants in spring to support the marine food chain. On the Atlantic-facing coast of the Garvellachs (an uninhabited archipelago just north of Jura) jewel anemones are visible on exposed reefs, and these are not the only treasures. Northern feather stars

‘The Firth of Lorn is once more a thriving biogenic reef, filled with soft corals, sponges, sea fans, native oysters, crayfish, scallops and fish’

PHOTOGRAPH MARK SMITH

‘The Argyll Coast and Islands Hope Spot is an enormous asset to the community and to eco-tourism and decision-makers are starting to listen’

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– swimming animals that look like plants – are found in Loch Sunart, along with flame shells, whose nests form a habitat for young cod and scallop spat. A little further south at Loch Creran is the world’s best place to see the fragile, castle-like reefs formed by tentacled serpulid worms, a habitat for sea squirts, brittle stars, spider crabs, sponges, squat lobsters and many other creatures. While in Loch Sween at the southern end of Argyll, ancient pink beds of maerl shimmer; this red coralline algae grows just 1mm a year and shelters young sea urchins, sea cucumbers, anemones and scallops. The Sound is also one of the final strongholds of the giant flapper skate, a member of the skate and ray family that measures two-and-a-half metres long from nose to tail and two metres wide across the wings. Nobody knows how old they grow because their skeletons are made of cartilage, which can’t be dated like bone. They don’t start reproducing until they are over 10 years old and their large eggs take at least a year to hatch, leaving behind monster mermaid’s purses that wash up on beaches. ‘The flapper skate used to be widespread, living in the English Channel

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ABOVE The Loch Sunart to Sound of Jura Marine Protected Area, covering 286 square metres of ocean, was set up in 2014

and the Mediterranean, but now their range has shrunk so much they are on the Critically Endangered list and are rarer than the giant panda,’ says John.

POWER OF PROTECTION This place is of great importance to the marine eco system, yet it only gained official protection from damaging fishing methods, such as dredging for scallops and trawling for prawns, in 2014, when the Scottish Government created the Loch Sunart to Sound of Jura Marine Protected Area (MPA), covering 286 square metres of ocean. It awarded three separate MPAs to Lochs Sunart, Creran and Sween. The decision came just in time and was surely influenced by the plight of the Firth of Lorn at the northern tip of Jura, where scallop dredging had damaged the seabed. Dredging was banned there in 2007 and now, some 14 years on, the firth is once more a thriving biogenic reef, filled with soft corals, sponges, sea fans, native oysters, crayfish, scallops and fish. ‘Seabed life is slow to recover,’ says John, ‘and if a practice such as dredging is routinely done again and again, it grinds down biodiversity.’ Local volunteers

keep a look out for illegal dredging, which they suspect still goes on, especially at night when activity is harder to spot. Things got even better in June 2019 when the four MPAs were collectively designated as the Argyll Coast and Islands ‘Hope Spot’, joining a global initiative led by American oceanographer Dr Sylvia Earle, the American equivalent of Sir David Attenborough (dubbed ‘Her Deepness’ by The New York Times). Dr Earle’s not-for-proﬁt organisation Mission Blue has so far designated 85 marine areas as Hope Spots, scientiﬁcally critical to the health of the ocean. Currently the only Hope Spot in the UK, the Argyll Coast and Islands is in good company, sitting alongside Sydney Harbour, the Maldive Atolls, the Chilean Fjords and Islands, the Gulf of Mexico Deep Reefs, plus many other incredible oceanic treasures. Says John: ‘The idea of the Hope Spots was to have a network of areas of outstanding marine biodiversity that coastal communities valued around the world – conserving them and sharing them with others so that they become beacons of hope.’ He and many other volunteers from four local groups – the

ABOVE In 2019, the four MPAs were designated as the Argyll Coast and Islands Hope Spot as part of a global environmental initiative

Friends of the Sound of Jura, the Community Association of Lochs and Sounds (CAOLAS), Craignish Restoration of Marine and Coastal Habitats (CROMACH), and Save Seil Sound – spent six months drawing up the nomination for Mission Blue to consider and drew on local expertise of all kinds, from underwater photographer Mark Woombs to marine archaeologist Annabel Lawrence, who has since become a Hope Spot champion, along with John.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED Against the backdrop of Scotland’s ‘Year of Coasts and Waters 2021’, the ﬂedgling Hope Spot caught the eye of the newly launched Highlands and Islands Environment Foundation (hief.scot), and received one of its ﬁrst grants to fund a part-time co-ordinator, Keira Anderson. ‘Our priorities are to understand what lives in the Hope Spot and to know if it is OK, then to show these things to people, explaining why they matter and how they can help, if help is needed,’ explains John, underlining the importance of organisational skills within a successful community project.

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The ﬁrst stage of that plan involves collecting data to feed into the national picture, comprising ‘citizen science’ diver surveys of the seabed by CAOLAS and a giant ﬂapper skate tagging and monitoring project. Volunteers will be taking part in boat surveys using an underwater video camera donated by NatureScot [Scotland’s nature agency] to help judge whether ‘seawilding’ initiatives are needed, such as seagrass meadow restoration, or native oyster reintroduction as is underway in Loch Craignish near Arran, also on the Argyll coast. Another plan is to invite artists to the area to capture what they see, then mount a travelling exhibition of paintings to spread the word through art. ‘We’re here for the long haul and we’d like to feel that there’s a lot to achieve still,’ says John. ‘The Argyll Coast and Islands Hope Spot is an enormous asset to the community and to eco-tourism, and the decision-makers are starting to listen.’ Find out more about the Argyll Coast and Islands Hope Spot at argyllhopespot.scot and also at mission-blue.org. To plan a trip and book accommodation, browse wildaboutargyll.co.uk and visitscotland.com.

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ABOVE Coastal communities are becoming more proactive in trying to stop ocean decline, and this is where getting involved with organisations such as the Argyll Coast and Islands Hope Spot can make a difference

COASTAL COMMUNITY ACTION ‘There’s a lot of pressure on the sea, from wind power to ﬁshing and salmon farming, so as a coastal community you need to plan, and you can’t plan unless you know what’s there,’ says John Aitchison, co-champion of the Argyll Coast and Islands Hope Spot and chairman of the Friends of Jura, which regularly welcomes hundreds of local people to meetings. ‘We’re noticing decline in the ocean in our lifetimes and this is not stopping. There’s a bubbling unease growing in many coastal communities, with people saying “I can’t stand by and watch this happen”.’ If you’re interested in seabed safeguarding, seawilding and blue carbon capture, here are some reasons why teaming up with others can bring positive progress. • Take a stake and inﬂuence the outcome. • Don’t assume you’re the only one who’s worried, you won’t be. • Taking action encourages hope. • Community groups can exchange information leading to progress. • Community groups can win grants for seawilding projects.

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BECOMING AN ISLANDER

Young professional Jenny Stewart left the bright city lights to relocate to the Isle of Wight, where the gentler pace of life has brought new business opportunities and the freedom to be outdoors WORDS CAROLINE WHEATER

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hree years ago, when Jenny Stewart was still living and working in London, she couldn’t have imagined how much a decision to relocate would reshape her life. She’d been working in marketing for 10 years, while her husband Alex was a pilot for British Airways, ﬂying in and out of Heathrow, but both of them grew up on the coast – Jenny in Dorset and Alex in Devon – and yearned for the sea and the watersports they loved to do. ‘I was coming up to 30 and living the city life – everyone thought we were crazy when we started to look for properties in the south west, but we felt that we needed the sea nearby,’ Jenny explains.

CAPTIVATING SPOT Initially, they looked at Bournemouth and Poole, but places kept cropping up that were really near the beach and a lot more affordable – all of them on the Isle of Wight. ‘We got on a ferry one day to see the island and fell in love with a house near Yarmouth,’ says Jenny. It was close to Freshwater Bay, where the waters are crystal clear against the chalk ABOVE Jenny and Evelyn set up Balance + Glo after relocating to the island LEFT Jenny on her paddleboard – SUP yoga is one of the classes she offers MAIN PHOTOGRAPH ALEX STEWART TOP PHOTOGRAPH KIMMI SCADGELL coa stm a ga zin e.co.uk

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STEPS & YOGA PHOTOGRAPHS KIMMI SCADGELL MAIN PHOTOGRAPH DANIEL KNIGHT

rock and wildﬂowers clothe the downs. They were smitten, and with such a short crossing to the mainland (30 minutes from Yarmouth to Lymington), Alex felt he could cope with the commute (and has subsequently discovered a community of pilots living on the island). Jenny decided to put her energy into teaching yoga, having already completed her training. It was a random move, but it felt full of promise. ‘There’s a sense when you get onto the Isle of Wight ferry that you’re leaving the crazy world behind – there’s more space here, it’s a very outdoorsy lifestyle and there’s a huge community of young people, many of whom are watersports enthusiasts. Not many of

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THESE PAGES An outdoorsy active lifestyle more in tune with nature was the big draw of the island for Balance + Glo co-founders Jenny and Evelyn

STARTING ANEW Although it was never part of her career plan to start her own business, Jenny felt inspired to set up a retreats company with local friend and fitness instructor Evelyn Joyce, who had also relocated from the mainland and lives in Cowes. Balance + Glo began by offering yoga, fitness and wellness retreats, which quickly led to setting up an online yoga and fitness studio that now has 300 members from around the world. During the summer they

team up with local paddleboard provider iSurf to run SUP yoga classes down on the River Yar, which have gone down a storm (see an aerial view of a class in Picture This, page 8). With a change in occupation and lifestyle, Jenny’s days have taken on a new energy – that of being out in nature, whether that is the 15-minute walk to beautiful Colwell Bay from her home, or cycling around the island, or taking her paddleboard to Compton Bay for some SUP surﬁng. ‘The sea has always been a place of calm for me, and it gives me a sense of perspective if I’m feeling stressed.’ Contrasted with the vibrancy of island life, the city imprint is fading fast.

ISLE OF WIGHT WELCOME • Find out more about Jenny and Evelyn’s Isle of Wight wellness retreats and online yoga and ﬁtness classes at balanceandglo.com. • Travel to the Isle of Wight from Portsmouth, Southampton and Lymington. Red Funnel (redfunnel. co.uk) operates the service between Southampton and East Cowes. • For more information about visiting the island, browse visitisleofwight.co.uk.

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PHOTOGRAPH MARTIN ALLEN

them have “normal” jobs – they are professional sailors and sports people, they run cafés and restaurants – it’s an entrepreneurial place to be,’ says Jenny.

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PARADISE AWAITS nȒɀƺ ɵȒɖȸɀƺǼǔ ǣȇ Ɏǝƺ ƬȒɖȇɎȸɵɀǣƳƺً ˡ ȇƳ ɵȒɖȸɀƺǼǔ ƫɵ Ɏǝƺ ɀƺƏِ (ǣɀƬȒɮƺȸ ȸȒǼǼǣȇǕ ǝǣǼǼɀً ƺɴȵǼȒȸƺ ƫȸƺƏɎǝ‫ٮ‬ɎƏǸǣȇǕ ɮǣɀɎƏɀ ƏȇƳ ȸƺƬȒȇȇƺƬɎ ɯǣɎǝ Ɏǝƺ ǕȸƺƏɎ ȒɖɎƳȒȒȸɀِ «ƺǼƏɴ ƏȇƳ ɖȇɯǣȇƳ Ȓȇ ȅǣǼƺɀ Ȓǔ ɀƏȇƳɵ ƫƺƏƬǝ ɖȇƳƺȸ Ɏǝƺ ǝƏɿɵ ɀɖȅȅƺȸ ɀɖȇً ƫƏɀǸǣȇǕ ǣȇ Ɏǝƺ ǣƳɵǼǼǣƬ ɀǣǕǝɎɀ ƏȇƳ ɀȒɖȇƳɀ Ȓǔ Ɏǝƺ ɀǝȒȸƺِ !ȒȒǼ Ȓǔǔ ɯǣɎǝ Ə Ƴǣȵ ǣȇ ɀɎɖȇȇǣȇǕ ƬǼƺƏȸ ɯƏɎƺȸɀً ƺɴȵǼȒȸƺ ǝǣƳƳƺȇ ƬƏɮƺɀ ƫɵ ȵƏƳƳǼƺ ƫȒƏȸƳً ɀǣȵ Ə JۭÁ ɯǣɎǝ Ə ɮǣƺɯِ ³ƺɎ ɵȒɖȸ ɯƏɎƬǝ ɎȒ XɀǼƏȇƳ Ɏǣȅƺ ǣȇ ‫ ׏א׎א‬ƏȇƳ ȸƺǼƏɴ ǣȇɎȒ Ə ɀǼȒɯƺȸ ȵƏƬƺ Ȓǔ Ǽǣǔƺِ 0ȇǴȒɵ ɯƏȸȅ ǝȒɀȵǣɎƏǼǣɎɵ ƏȇƳ Ə ɀɖȇȇɵ ɯƺǼƬȒȅƺ ǼǣǸƺ ȇȒ ȒɎǝƺȸِ XɀǼƏȇƳ ȵƏȸƏƳǣɀƺ ƏɯƏǣɎɀ ȸǣǕǝɎ ǝƺȸƺ Ȓȇ Ɏǝƺ Èk ɀȒɖɎǝ ƬȒƏɀɎِ

¨ǼƏȇ ɵȒɖȸ ƺɀƬƏȵƺ ƏɎ visitisleofwight.co.uk

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Hunters

HOME

FAC E B O O K G RO U P

Preview our newest listings ½VWX 7IEVGL *EGIFSSO JSV Susan Payne Property Home Hunters

To view our current full portfolio of homes for sale, please visit:

www.susanpayneproperty.co.uk and for more information on any of our properties, please call:

01983 566244

WE LIST ALL OF OUR HOMES FOR SALE ON:

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ISLAND HOMES for sale

If you yearn to live on an island, here’s our pick of the latest options, from Orkney to the Isle of Wight COMPILED BY ALICE WESTGATE

PROPERTY OF THE MONTH

ISLE OF ARRAN, £400,000

Seacliffe Cottage sits in an elevated spot in the tranquil hamlet of Dippen, near Whiting Bay. See 1 overleaf

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ISLE OF ARRAN, SCOTLAND £400,000 Previous page: Built around 1800, Seacliffe Cottage occupies an elevated spot in the hamlet of Dippen on the south-east corner of Arran. As well as wonderful views across the Firth of Clyde, it has ﬁve bedrooms and can either be divided into two self-contained properties or used as one large family home. McEwan Fraser Legal (0131 524 9797, mcewanfraserlegal.co.uk).

ANGLESEY, WALES £675,000 Oriel Tegfryn has a great coastal location in Menai Bridge, looking out over the Menai Strait. This

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spacious detached property, formerly an art gallery, has huge potential to become a dream coastal home and includes many grand features and a generous garden with development potential. Dafydd Hardy (01248 353544, dafyddhardy.co.uk).

SANDAY, SCOTLAND £185,000 A potential B&B business or terriﬁc family home, East Manse is a detached property on Sanday, one of the larger inhabited outer islands of Orkney. It has ﬁve bedrooms, a large garden and is just a short walk from some beautiful sandy beaches. Monster Moves (01463 263063, monster-moves.co.uk).

If Georgian grandeur is your heart’s desire, then this elegant apartment will ﬁt the bill perfectly

ISLE OF WIGHT, ENGLAND £260,000 On the ﬁrst ﬂoor of a Georgian building in Ventnor, Apartment No 2 Caithness is a luxury two/ three-bedroom property with a stylish interior and a south-facing veranda with sea views. Susan Payne Property (01983 566244, susanpayneproperty.co.uk).

ERISKAY, SCOTLAND £350,000 Carrick is a three-bedroom architect-designed house in a beautiful waterside position on this Outer Hebridean island. It has lots of eco-friendly features and comes with 15 acres of owner-occupied croft land, plus a boat shed and

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the Solent, a full-width balcony and a top-ﬂoor yoga studio. Henry Adams (01243 377773, henryadams.co.uk).

ISLE OF COLL, SCOTLAND £340,000 Mill Cottage is a detached house with three bedrooms, a two-bed annexe and almost six acres of land, all set in a peaceful spot on this picturesque island that sits to the west of Mull. Bell Ingram (01631 566122, bellingram.co.uk).

HAYLING ISLAND, ENGLAND £1,750,000 On a private residential estate, and with a garden that leads directly to the beach, Otao is a recently updated house with four bedrooms, panoramic views over

byre. Bell Ingram (01463 717799, bellingram.co.uk).

8 If you’d like to advertise your property for sale in coast, contact Zara Mehmet on 07415 325673 or email zara. mehmet@ kelsey.co.uk.

ISLE OF SKYE, SCOTLAND £450,000 Architect-designed Bennachie is a striking eco-home in the crofting township of Flodigarry. As well as stunning sea and mountain views, it has two bedrooms and comes with a one-bed guest building and a workshop. The Isle of Skye Estate Agency (01478 612683, iosea.co.uk).

ISLE OF BUTE, SCOTLAND £349,950 Situated in Kilchattan Bay on the

southern edge of Bute, Catan is 8 a red sandstone church that has been renovated and converted into a coastal home with fascinating ecclesiastical features. It has four bedrooms, a garden and wonderful views over the water. Robb Residential (0141 225 3880, robbresidential.com).

SHERKIN ISLAND, IRELAND €1,500,000 On this beautiful island in Roaringwater Bay, County Cork, Sherkin House is a 21-bedroom hotel with a private 30-berth marina and the remains of a 15th-century castle in its two-acre grounds. Charles McCarthy (+353 282 1533, charlesmccarthy.com).

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COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT

A charming, Grade II Listed, period house occupying a prime position on the seafront with uninterrupted views.

A substantial waterfront duplex apartment with additional roof terrace, balcony and waterfront terrace, in a prime location with an extensive basement and excellent sea views.

Guide Price £1,200,000

Guide Price £950,000

COLWELL, ISLE OF WIGHT The ultimate two storey penthouse retreat, offering truly magnificent & panoramic views over the western approaches to the Solent & Needles lighthouse – some of the most vibrant coastline in the country.

Guide Price £1,450,000

www.spencewillard.co.uk

01983 200880

hello@spencewillard.co.uk

COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT An exceptional contemporary house occupying a prime waterfront position adjacent to the Royal Yacht Squadron and with unrivalled views of The Solent. Constructed to exacting standards, there is accommodation over four floors, with balconies at three levels and a 56ft roof terrace.

Guide Price £2,950,000

Make your move with Spence Willard and enjoy a well-established independent estate agency on the Isle of Wight; with its 57 miles of glorious coastline yet only 2 hours from London, enjoy a wonderful, balanced lifestyle.

COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT A luxury apartment situated on Cowes waterfront offering spectacular panoramic views. A short level stroll is Cowes town centre with its array of local boutiques, restaurants and cafes plus the marina, yacht clubs and high-speed Red Jet passenger ferry to Southampton.

Guide Price £1,100,000

@spencewillard

@spencewillardiw

LIFTING THE SPIRITS Island craft distillers are a peppy lot, foraging for unusual coastal botanicals to ﬂavour their delicious small batch gins, such as the fronds of sugar kelp harvested by diver Lewis Mackenzie for the Isle of Harris Distillery off Scotland’s west coast WORDS KEVIN PILLEY

PHOTOGRAPHS LAURENCE WINRAM

ewis Mackenzie takes a few deep breaths before he starts work in the morning. He ﬁlls his lungs with fresh Outer Hebridean air and then plunges into the sea kelp forest off the coast of Tarbert, the harbour town and business hub of the Isle of Harris, off the west coast of Scotland. He works for the Isle of Harris Distillery and is its chief (and only) sugar kelp collector, harvesting fronds of saccharina latissima,

the hero ingredient in the island’s award-winning craft gin. The Scots go to great lengths to make a seaweed Martini, as Lewis well knows. He runs Hebridean Wildfoods, which specialises in the supply of high-quality, foraged seaweeds and hand-caught shellﬁsh. Free diving into sea lochs to hand-harvest underwater sugar kelp, he collects up to 200kgs of the three-metre fronds a day. Sometimes he

ABOVE Lewis Mackenzie diving for sugar kelp off the Isle of Harris. He supplies the island’s distillery with this star ingredient from the sea for Isle of Harris Gin RIGHT Harris is one of the Hebridean islands

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ABOVE LEFT The Isle of Harris Distillery was set up in 2015 as social enterprise with and for the islanders – to generate more employment on the island and help make sure the population didn’t dwindle any further ABOVE RIGHT & OPPOSITE Bounty from the sea – Lewis harvests six different species of seaweed for various uses and each one involves different harvesting techniques

shares his workplace with Risso’s dolphins.

HARMONIOUS HARVESTING ‘I get seals and otters watching me, and cormorants and guillemots diving past, streaming bubbles,’ says ex-civil servant, Isle of Lewis-born Lewis, the son of a photographer and a schoolteacher. ‘If you can’t get to outer space, then the feeling of freedom that comes with diving for sugar kelp is the next best thing. I dive at low tide from February to April so the sea is around 6-8C, which means a dry suit to the ofﬁce every day. But no tie.’

He carefully harvests six species of seaweed for various uses. Each species entails different harvesting techniques, different seasons and different customers. ‘When the distillery decided to start making gin with sugar kelp as a key botanical, they were happy with the quality of my seaweed and the way in which it’s harvested, which doesn’t kill the plant and actually encourages it to grow larger and stronger fronds,’ he adds.

MADE BY ISLANDERS The Isle of Harris Distillery’s gin is a team effort, a communal exercise. Dried in

Stornoway by the Hebridean Seaweed Co, the star ingredient is weighed by joiner-turned-distiller Billy Fraser as per the secret recipe, then macerated in grain-neutral spirit for 24 hours with eight other botanicals by apprentice distiller and school-leaver Rebekah Morrison, quality checked by former builder Domhnall Macleod before Becca Passmore, Harrison Wood and Malky Campbell label and package. Every bottle is a hands-on hearach or islanders’ experience. No member of staff has worked at a distillery before. The idea for using kelp as a

‘The way it’s harvested doesn’t kill the sea kelp plant but encourages it to grow larger and stronger fronds’ 6 2 C OA S T

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‘I love the positive crofting mentality. Everyone is willing to lend a hand to help get the job done’ 64 C OA S T

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Isle of Harris Distillery now provides full-time employment for more than 30 people on the Hebridean island; Isle of Harris gin – the spirit of the place – in production at the distillery; the beautiful bottle used for the island’s gin is fast becoming something of a local design icon

botanical ingredient came from agrochemist, Petra Bakewell-Stone, and ethnobotanist and wild swimmer, Susanne Masters. The ﬁnished product – courtesy of the Dottach still – comes in an iconic bottle. Its rippled glass design evokes the wind-blown seas of Luskentyre and sweeping sands of Seilebost. The lines are smooth in places, as if worn by tides. The paper label holds ﬂecks of sugar kelp and copper. From the base rises the colour of summer Harris seas. Underneath is printed Esse Quam Videri, the distillery founder’s family motto, which means ‘to be, rather than to seem’.

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COMMUNITY SPIRIT Opening in 2015, the distillery was the idea of American musicologist, Anderson ‘Burr’ Bakewell who has an off-grid property on the neighbouring island of Scarp. Anxious to address issues of a fragile local economy and a declining population, the distillery was conceived as much as a social enterprise and catalyst for positive change as a business. ‘It’s a ground of hope here on the shores of East Loch Tarbert,’ he says. ‘We employ over 30 people full-time. I love the positive crofting mentality. Everyone is willing to lend a hand to help get the job done,’ adds managing director, Simon

Erlanger. The team also comprises former ferry night-watchman Norman Iain Mackay and ex-Harris policeman, Phil Bertin, now a trainee distiller. Everyone who works at the distillery has their favourite sundowner location, from Northton beach where you can watch the sun dipping under the Atlantic, to Scalpay with its panoramic views across to Skye and the Clisham Hills. There’s a collective saying at the Isle of Harris Distillery that the gin is the Outer Hebrides bottled – quite literally the spirit of the place. Isle of Harris Gin (45% ABV), £40/70cl bottle. Buy at harrisdistillery.com.

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MORE ISLAND TIPPLES LUSSA GIN FROM JURA Jura’s Lussa Gin uses sea lettuce to give a hint of sea spray fragrance and is named after the Old Norse word for ﬂowers. It’s made by diurachs (Jura islanders) Alicia MacInnes, Claire Fletcher and Georgina Kitching, using a Portuguese still named Hamish. The women harvest sea lettuce from their rowing boat Red Rose, and add home-grown rose petals, honeysuckle, lemon thyme and even ground elder to the mix. Lussa Gin (42% ABV), £40/70cl. Buy at lussagin.com.

MERMAID GIN FROM THE ISLE OF WIGHT Xavier Baker (MD of Goddard’s Brewery) and Conrad Gauntlett (owner of Rosemary Vineyard) use Boadicea hops, grains of paradise and rock samphire, locally known as Mermaid’s Kiss, to make their Mermaid Gin. The bottles even mimic translucent ﬁsh scales and the distillery offers a reﬁll service to islanders who don’t upcycle the lovely bottles into table lamps. Mermaid Gin (42% ABV), £36.70/ 70cl. Buy at isleofwightdistillery. com.

SHETLAND REEL GIN FROM UNST On Shetland’s most northerly inhabited island, Unst, Frank and Debbie Strang run the UK’s most northerly distillery at Saxa Vord – closer to Norway than mainland Scotland. They make Shetland Reel gin, using locally grown apple mint in the Original Gin and foraged bladderwrack in the Ocean Sent version. Initially a small-batch product only available in Shetland, word spread and it’s now sent all over the world. ‘Our aim was to use local botanicals to create a gin that’s unique and embodies the place where it originates,’ say the Strangs. Original Shetland Reel Gin (43% ABV), £34/70cl. Buy at shetlandreel.com.

ISLAND GIN FROM ST MARY’S, ISLES OF SCILLY Island Gin and the Atlantic Strength variety is made by husband and wife Arthur and Hilary Miller, using Atlantic fennel from Old Town and Porth Minick beaches on St Mary’s. ‘We do everything, from distilling, bottling, labelling to packing, posting and looking after Bishop and Daisy, our two stills,’ says Arthur, formerly of EJ Gallo Winery. The bottle design is a nod to the Bishop Rock Lighthouse – the westernmost point on the Isles of Scilly. Island Gin (44% ABV), £44.45/70cl, Island Gin Atlantic Strength (57% ABV), £52.45/70cl. Buy at scillyspirit.com.

HOLY ISLAND GIN FROM LINDISFARNE Andy Cowan, the publican of The Ship Inn on Holy Island (Lindisfarne) – known locally as ‘The Tavern’ – built a micro-distillery in his beer garden to make Holy Island Gin, ‘the spirit of high tide’. Says assistant Molly Luke: ‘My great-grandparents, then my grandparents, owned The Ship – formerly The Northumberland Arms – between 1936-1985. I’d never have thought nearly 40 years later I’d be making gin behind the pub!’ Holy Island Gin (44% ABV), £38/70cl. Buy at holyislandgin.co.uk.

MENAI OYSTER GIN FROM ANGLESEY Rob Laming and Maria Jones of Llanfairpwll Distillery on Anglesey are the creators of the world’s longest-named gin, Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllantysiliogogogoch Gin, made with mint and rosemary from the island. Along with oyster producer and marine biologist Shaun Krijnen of Menai Oysters and Mussels Ltd, they developed Menai Oyster Gin, using oysters to add a creamy, subtle taste of the sea. Llanfairpwll Menai Oyster Gin (40% ABV), £32/50cl. Buy at llanfairpwlldistillery.co.uk.

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Your own luxury waterlodge now available in Britain’s prettiest marina

The ultimate staycation destination

genuine throw-back in time, Birdham Pool offers a complete respite from the usual impression of South Coast marinas, and you are guaranteed a view that’ll be the envy of all your friends.

Show us this advert and

we’ll give you £1000 towards furnishings when you complete purhase!

Easy to look after, with either one or two double bedrooms, open plan living area, and a terrace for your sundowners, the lodges come ready for use. They are built to high quality and environmental spec, robust in construction and low maintenance. For security, access to the marina is via gated pontoons.

Birdham Pool has the most incredible South Coast location, with views up to the South Downs and towards the white sand beaches of the eastern Solent. Great public transport and road connections, pubs and restaurants a short walk or bike ride along countryside bridleways, and the city of Chichester just 10 minutes in the car. Get in touch on 01445 249000 or info@castleboatsales.co.uk

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MAKING the MOVE

Many of us aspire to live by the sea and in the next pages we give you the information you need to make that dream a reality WORDS CAROLINE WHEATER

CORNISH VIEWS With wonderful views overlooking sweeping St Austell Bay, The Courtyard at Duporth is ideally located for exploring the South Cornwall coastline. For starters, it’s less than a mile from the UNESCO World Heritage village of Charlestown, a china clay port built in the late 1700s and the only Georgian period harbour left in the UK. Just up the road from the collection of tall ships and cafés is the evocative Shipwreck Treasure Museum, and a little further on, The Eden Project. The Courtyard comprises 38 two- and three-bed apartments, houses and bungalows, ranged around a Grade II-listed clock tower. Features include Shaker-style kitchens, Neff and Bosch appliances

and underﬂoor heating. Prices from £310,000 to £750,000, ﬁnd out more at acornpropertygroup.org.

SAFE AND SOUND Age-exclusive residences are growing in popularity and Lifestory’s portfolio for over-55 buyers includes some sought-after coastal locations. Sandbanks Road in Poole, Dorset, is the latest on the market, offering 32 one- and two-bedroom apartments, most with private balconies or patios, and a short stroll from Poole Bay. Extras include Tunstall security systems and Hansgrohe Raindance walk-in showers, while communal facilities range from a shared lounge to a kitchen for making snacks to a guest suite for family and friends to stay over. Lifehost Karen Hartburn is on site from 10am-4pm, Mon to Fri, to take deliveries, organise coffee mornings and trips out, as well as give advice on the local area. Apartments cost from £350,000 to buy outright, or £1,957 per month to rent, including service charge (lifestory.group).

KEEP CALM Designer, author and TV presenter Oliver Heath is an expert in sustainable architecture and interior design, and has distilled a lifetime of knowledge into his new book, Design a healthy home (£14.99, DK). He draws on the latest evidence and research into biophilia (a psychological term that describes the innate attraction we humans have to all that is alive and vital) to support the many tips he gives. Calming and restorative are the watchwords, and you’ll discover how to make indoor lighting as natural as possible to benefit your circadian rhythms, how to use plants and fish tanks to encourage concentration, and how to check the acoustic output of appliances before you buy. coa stm a ga zin e.co.uk

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Enjoy life in the slow lane

Inspirational Journeys by Camper Van and Motorhome

www.bloomsbury.com/taketheslowroad

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HOMES to BUY BESIDE the SEA

From a baronial mansion in Scotland to a ﬁsherman’s cottage in Devon, here’s our pick of the latest properties for sale by the sea COMPILED BY ALICE WESTGATE

1 PROPERTY OF THE MONTH NAIRN, HIGHLAND £1,000,000 Firthside House is a grand Scottish mansion in a fabulous location overlooking the Moray Firth. See 1 overleaf

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NAIRN, HIGHLAND £1,000,000 Previous page: Firthside House is a grand Scottish mansion in a fabulous location overlooking the Moray Firth. Dating from 1885, it is reminiscent of a castle and has 11 bedrooms, ﬁve reception rooms, six bathrooms and mature gardens that extend to the seafront. Strutt & Parker (01463 723596, struttandparker.com).

COLINTRAIVE, ARGYLL & BUTE £699,000 Altavoil is a ﬁve-bedroom coastal home set in more than two acres of parkland gardens. Highlights include lovely views over the water, access to the foreshore, an octagonal summerhouse and a

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sea swimming pool. Robb Residential (0141 225 3880, robbresidential.com).

LYMPSTONE, DEVON £750,000 No 5 Harefield Cottages is a blue-painted house in a stunning location overlooking the Exe Estuary. One of six former fishermen’s cottages, the property has been beautifully refurbished to offer two/three bedrooms, a top-floor sitting room and direct access to Lympstone beach. Wilkinson Grant (01392 875000, wilkinsongrant.co.uk).

SCARBOROUGH, NORTH YORKSHIRE £160,000

Originally built circa 1760, Stone Hall was extended in the 1990s

Look out to sea from No 8 Argyll, a third-ﬂoor apartment with two bedrooms in the sought-after Esplanade. The property is close to South Bay beach, the Italian Gardens and Scarborough Spa. Hunters (01723 336760, hunters.com).

GLANDORE, CO CORK €3,800,000 Stone Hall stands in a fantastic spot overlooking Glandore harbour. A Georgian house with eight bedrooms, it has a tiered walled garden along with views to the islands of Adam and Eve, the coastline and the ocean beyond. Charles McCarthy (+353 282 1533, charlesmccarthy.com).

coast PROPERTY

ST AGNES, CORNWALL £895,000 Rosemundy Villa is a lovely home in this popular north-coast village. A Grade II-listed Georgian property, it has four bedrooms, beautiful period features and a large private garden with mature trees. It’s also close to some fabulous beaches. Rohrs & Rowe (01872 306360, rohrsandrowe.co.uk).

DEAL, KENT £475,000 Xanadu sits in the heart of the conservation area, just yards from the seafront. As well as loads of character features, including exposed beams and wood-burning stove, the house has three bedrooms and a private walled

garden. Bright & Bright (01304 374071, brightandbright.co.uk).

8 If you’d like to advertise your property for sale in coast, contact Zara Mehmet on 07415 325673 or email zara.mehmet@ kelsey.co.uk.

DITTISHAM, DEVON £2,000,000 Look out over the Dart Estuary from Brook House, a three-bed detached property that occupies a sought-after and wonderfully private spot in the village. It comes with a meadow and an orchard that has potential for further development. Knight Frank (01392 423111, knightfrank.co.uk).

RAMSGATE, KENT £580,000 The sea forms the backdrop to No 9 Winterstoke Crescent, a detached chalet-style house in

a sought-after part of Ramsgate. 8 Recently refurbished, it has four bedrooms and a rear garden with a terrace that’s perfect for entertaining. Miles & Barr (01227 200600, milesandbarr.co.uk). DUPORTH, CORNWALL from £310,000 Situated above a private beach and overlooking St Austell Bay, The Courtyard is a development of 38 new two- and three-bedroom homes for the over-55s. Properties are set around a landscaped courtyard and a listed clocktower. All have private outside spaces and gated access to Duporth beach. Acorn Property Group (01637 876000, acornpropertygroup.org).

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coast WELLBEING

SCENT TO

SOOTHE THE SOUL Award-winning Cornish company St Eval has developed a new range of candles to captivate your senses and create a little calm amid the chaos ave nothing in your houses that you do not know to be beautiful or believe to be useful, the 19th-century designer William Morris famously said. And if there is one thing we have all learned over the past year it’s the importance of those little things that help to make us feel happier or calmer or more at ease at home, whether it’s a pretty china cup for your tea or a cushion with a bold tropical bloom adding a splash of colour and style to the sofa, or an evocative scent that instantly carries you away to the seashore, or the bluebell woods, or a herb garden…. Cornwall-based candle-maker St Eval certainly knows a thing or two about the transformative power of scent. Starting in the 1990s on a farm in St Eval just a few miles from the coast at Newquay, this family business now employs more than 40 people, keeping the artisan craft of candle-making alive while championing sustainable and environmentally friendly production methods, and winning fans worldwide for its gorgeous natural candles. The company generates its own energy via wind, solar and biomass sources, uses recyclable packaging, and its candles are inspired by the ever-changing ocean and the unspoilt Cornish countryside. From the calming Coastal Collection, featuring sea salt and samphire, to the Folk Collection with its oak and moss varieties, there’s something for every mood. St Eval was recently honoured with a Queen’s Award for Sustainable Development – the ﬁrst candle-maker to win this accolade. In addition to its existing candles, reed

WORDS ANNE-CLAIRE HEELS

ABOVE The north coast of Cornwall provides plenty of inspiration for St Eval’s gorgeous candles LEFT & BELOW The new Retreat Collection invites you to take time out, and transform your mood with three new fragrances designed to help you relax

diffusers and hand soaps, St Eval launched its Retreat Collection this spring, with three new fragrances designed to help you clear your mind, escape everyday stresses and rejuvenate your spirits. Purify, Meditate and Renew

use ingredients such as sage to soothe, copal for relaxation, and lime and tangerine to awaken, and come either as individual candle tins, or as a set of three. Shop the range at st-eval.com. And breathe…

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coast ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

HIP HIP HOORAY! Every dog has his day, the old saying goes, and it turns out it’s certainly true, as a huge percentage of owners make a fuss of their pet on its birthday…

s far as birthdays go, for the past year most of our celebrations have been a bit of a non-event; a glass of ﬁzz in the garden and a Zoom catch-up with friends was as extravagant as it got. However, our canine companions on the other hand (or should it be paw?) have enjoyed birthday pampering like never before, according to a national survey by Devon-based pet food maker, Forthglade. Its recent nationwide poll found that a staggering 70% of dog owners celebrated their pet’s birthday, with 22% stating it was a highlight of the year. A huge 84% of owners said that they knew their dog’s real birthday, while 69% of those who were unsure of the actual date simply made one up to ensure a day was set aside to celebrate!

A BIRTHDAY TREAT When it comes to treating dogs, Forthglade found that the average British dog owner splashes out £62 on their canine’s birthday, with 50% not ashamed to admit they always spend more on their

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dog than their partner’s birthday! Explaining perhaps why nearly threequarters questioned claimed their canine companion was their ‘soulmate’.

SPENDING POWER When it comes to who spends the most on their pet’s birthdays, it is the under30s who really roll out the red carpet, splashing out a whopping £70 on their dogs. This compares to the over-60s, who spend on average £19 on their four-legged friend.

WHAT’S THE GIFT? More than half of the nation’s dogs (54%) will be given brand-new toys on their big day, 39% will sit down to enjoy a special meal; either hand-made by their pet parent or brought in especially. Meanwhile 33% will buy their dog a stylish new collar, 29% of dogs will start the day with a deluxe birthday breakfast, 31% will enjoy a rendition of the Happy Birthday song, and 27% will tuck into a special dog-friendly birthday cake.

To mark Forthglade’s landmark 50th birthday this year, the Devonian dog lovers have launched a special birthday dinner for dogs. The new limited-edition Sardines & Haddock with Potato & Broccoli meal is made with fish landed in Devon. Containing 75% sardines and haddock and packed full of vitamins, minerals and botanicals such as camomile, parsley, rosemary and nettle, the new recipe is a great source of protein, nutrients and natural oils. It is free from junk or fillers and contains all the goodness a dog needs to stay healthy. It’s also grain free, making it the perfect choice for sensitive tummies. The new meal is suitable for dogs aged 1yr+, and comes in handy 395g trays (RRP £1.45) or as a case of 7 trays (RRP £10.15). Find it in supermarkets, good pet shops, online retailers and at forthglade.com.

STUNNING SOUTH DEVON

PHOTOGRAPH THE CARY ARMS

In the following pages you can discover more about this beautiful holiday destination, which offers myriad beaches and incredible seafood

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HOT HOTEL

The Cary Arms Luxury Cottages, South Devon WHAT’S THE BUZZ? As hotels reopen and we venture out into the world of travel again, the combination of a luxury hotel with beautiful self-catering cottages at the Cary Arms offers the perfect solution to those who want to maintain some social distancing whilst having a well-deserved break by the sea. Nestled in secluded Babbacombe Bay, just outside Torquay, this self-contained destination allows guests to manage their interactions, with private kitchens and bathrooms in their luxury self-catering cottages, al fresco dining overlooking the sea in the excellent restaurant, and activities that can be

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arranged just for your group of family or friends. Our party ventured out with the extremely knowledgeable local guide, Graham Kerr, who added another dimension to our stay by giving us the history of this fascinating location as we explored the beaches and town with him (walks cost £10 per person and need to be booked directly with Graham at 07414 777606, englishrivierawalkingtours.co.uk.) WHAT ARE THE ROOMS LIKE? The newly decorated self-catering cottages on the estate are modern, yet relaxed and comfortable, mixing traditional and contemporary style. Foxes Walk sleeps up

to nine people in five bedrooms, with the two ground floor bedrooms having their own entrance and bathroom, making them perfect for teenagers. There’s a brilliant turning circle that makes the parking on the steep incline easy, and the private hot tub in the terraced garden adds a deeply luxurious feel to your stay. There are five other characterful cottages to choose from, each with its own unique identity, and sleeping from four to nine people. BEST SEA VIEW? There are sea views from the living room and top floor bedrooms of Foxes Walk, and uninterrupted sea views from the hotel’s spa, restaurant and terrace.

coast TRAVEL

FOXES WALK PHOTOGRAPHS WILL DOLPHIN PHOTOGRAPHY

Self-catering cottage Foxes Walk (pictured left and below right) is new to the accommodation at The Cary Arms in South Devon

HOW ABOUT THE FOOD? The hotel restaurant is excellent, featuring seasonal produce from around the South Devon coast. Our meal of pan-seared Brixham scallops with cauliﬂower, thyme puree, basil oil, (£12.50) and oven-baked trio of ﬁsh with pesto nut crust and wilted greens were fresh off the boats and an absolute treat (£24.50). Room service is available and can be arranged in advance for larger groups staying in the cottages. HOW ACCESSIBLE IS IT? The hotel is on a steep incline, and therefore there are an unavoidable number of steps around the estate and in the hotel and cottages. They offer valet parking to help navigate this

issue, with the reception area and main restaurant being accessible to wheelchairs, although there are steps to the residents’ lounge. There is one bedroom in the hotel which may be suitable for someone with restricted mobility as it has a walk-in shower. WHAT WILL IT COST? Cottages start at £495 per night and Foxes Walk from £595 per night. Deluxe rooms start from £269 B&B per night. HOW DO I BOOK? Call 01803 327110 or visit caryarmscottages.co.uk. Please check current government travel advice before booking any trip. Alex Fisher @alexﬁshermedia

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coast LIVING

BOATHOUSE BOLTHOLE Artist Miranda Gardiner used her creative eye and magpie instincts to convert a ramshackle boathouse on a Devon estuary into a beautiful sanctuary, using reclaimed and vintage ﬁnds WORDS ANNA TURNS PHOTOGRAPHS EMMA VOWLES & OWEN HOWELLS

ramed by evergreen pines and dark wooden balustrades, the view from the deck of Miranda Gardiner’s South Devon boathouse changes as the tide ebbs and ﬂows. A private path leads down to the shingly foreshore of Bowcombe Creek, part of an AONB that’s a haven for wading little egrets at low tide and the route to the market town of Kingsbridge and the sailing hub of Salcombe at the mouth of the Kingsbridge Estuary. ‘In the evenings, it’s a wonderful spot to watch the sunset glowing a copper colour in the ﬁelds beyond – it feels so calm,’ says Miranda, an artist whose thoughtful renovation of this holiday property allows it to blend in with the shorescape, like a hide in the reeds. After years spent dreaming of converting an old garage into a romantic retreat, Miranda found the boathouse back in 2014, a 10-minute drive from the village of Loddiswell where she lives with her husband Diggory and their teenage children. Built on the site of a 1930s chalet building, the shed had housed a classic wooden Salcombe yawl sailing boat for 30 years. Now, since its conversion, it’s all about escape. Every

corner offers a new place to rest and relax, from the reclining loungers by the ﬁre pit to the large window seat near the dresser, an eBay ﬁnd that serves as a well-stocked gin bar with honesty box.

BACH ON THE CREEK Having travelled extensively in New Zealand, Miranda was inspired by the Kiwi philosophy of embracing the outdoors, and loves spending time on the coast with her children. ‘At low tide, you can walk along the creek foreshore, beneath the overhanging trees,

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coast LIVING

LEFT The dining space feels light and airy with reclaimed wooden table and chairs sliding doors out onto the wooden deck ABOVE The Irish dresser with brass details that Miranda’s husband Diggory adapted is the centrepiece of the kitchen

which remind me of the pohutukawa trees with bright red ﬂowers that hug New Zealand’s coastline,’ she explains. ‘The sea is part of our existence as a family and this place is about recreating that sense of being barefoot. We have been so grateful that during lockdown we could still go for a swim, walk on the beach or go ﬁshing. It’s those inexpensive, lovely interactions with people that are so special.’ Visiting family and guests can kayak their way around too. ‘I love getting physically immersed in that view – there’s something that resets me when I’m by the coast,’ adds Miranda. Inspired by the concept of the Kiwi ‘bach’ or beach house, the interiors of this one-bedroom property have an old-school, rustic feel. While there are plenty of nautical touches, the vibe is more ‘washed up on the shore’ than neat coastal motifs. Upstairs, in the cosy double bedroom under the eaves, there’s

an eclectic mix of vintage prints and artworks on the walls. A string of buoyancy rings and worn ﬁshing ﬂoats hangs on one angular block of wall to break up the harsh lines – these were found in the Shetland Islands by her father-in law many years ago.

RECLAIMED RENOVATION Miranda and Diggory, a retired headmaster, have converted this boat store lovingly, using as many reclaimed materials and furnishings as possible, partly to keep the environmental footprint low but also for the added character that different textures, colours and patterns bring. It’s a far cry from the modern, ﬂoor-to-ceiling glasshouses so often rebuilt along this stretch of coastline. She was hands-on throughout the project and felt comfortable dealing with builders’ merchants. ‘It’s such a creative process. It’s harder to visualise the end

result three-dimensionally than with a flat painting, but I’ve been around builders since my twenties and I enjoy chatting through a problem with them over a coffee to find a solution.’ And because this wasn’t a quick build, they had time to find sympathetic materials, with the roof being a prime example. ‘I mentioned to my brother-in-law that ideally we wanted reclaimed Delabole slates, and he happened to say he was just stripping off a 150-year-old roof from a Devon longhouse near Exeter. They were put onto the boathouse with copper nails and it looks beautiful.’ The property is full of serendipitous finds like this that the Gardiners have collected over the years. Miranda bought the antique doorbell from Totnes market in the 1990s and rescued four kitchen chairs from the nearby tip for the princely sum of £10. A local second-hand shop in Kingsbridge, called Two Rooms,

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ABOVE & LEFT Miranda had dreamt for many years of finding a waterside property to renovate BELOW Upstairs, the cosy bedroom has its own deck overlooking the water

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coast LIVING MIRANDA’S TOP DEVON ACTIVITIES

ABOVE The boathouse fits into the outdoors philosophy that so inspired Miranda from New Zealand travels

became her go-to for vintage furniture and accessories: ‘Discovering Pete [owner of Two Rooms] when we had very little money and a bit of a lag on the project was great because we could buy bits and bobs when things popped up, such as a brass handrail. It’s like a puzzle, ﬁnding all the missing pieces when they appear. If I’d had a ready pot of money and more time, I’d have been more tempted to buy everything immediately online.’ Her favourite ﬁnd is the muted yellow cupboard now hanging on the kitchen wall, full of different teas. ‘It’s a lovely colour and with these markings, it breaks up the wall. We think that it may have been a French seed cupboard with vents.’ Miranda commissioned Ben, a local cabinetmaker, to craft the windows, and Diggory built the kitchen cabinets and counter tops. ‘To get back into carpentry, I attended the Nick Carey workshop a few years ago, just outside Dartmouth, and made the coffee table in the boathouse from cherry and ash using only hand tools,’ says Diggory. The large kitchen island is a one-off piece made from the base of an old Irish dresser purchased from Pete and joined to reclaimed hardwood to create a larger counter top (and hidden storage) that is great for cooking and socialising. In the bathroom upstairs, a French

wooden storage box contains towels and copper panels from a bar in Torquay bounce the light around the room. Two sea snail or ‘paua’ shells from Kaikoura on New Zealand’s South Island add a dash of mother-of-pearl glimmer, while the print of ‘crazy angler ﬁsh’ by the sink is yet another point of interest.

STILL LIFE In her studio at home, Miranda works with acrylic paints and some pastels; recent commissions include a seascape of Sennen Cove in Cornwall and a view of the Avon Valley, but mostly her work is still life. That artistic eye naturally seeps into every aspect of the boathouse, from the display of pots and vases on a windowsill to the layout on every wall. Above the cosy blue corner sofa sits a painting of a boathouse that goes well with that dark inky blue, plus two small paintings of her own. Miranda has used colour to separate space in the openplan living area, while in the lighter, airier kitchen, her teal still life adds a splash of colour and the pale, shabby chic dining table breaks up the heavier brass and darker wood kitchen cabinets. The mix of natural shades, sanded down textures and mismatched woods reinforces the intention to relax. ‘Like any still life, making this holiday home special has been about creating a

• Sea swimming. ‘I started sea swimming last June – without a wetsuit – splashing among the waves at Torcross with my friends, the “mermaids”, is so invigorating.’ • SUP. ‘Stand-up paddleboarding or kayaking makes it so easy to get afloat and I love going underneath Bowcombe Bridge, just down the creek.’ SUP hire is available at waterborn.uk.com. • Foodie feasts. ‘Just a couple of minutes’ walk away is The Crabshell Inn, a family-friendly pub right by the water which serves up morning coffee, stone-baked pizzas or dinner with wine. As a treat, we order takeaway from chef Jane Baxter’s Wild Artichokes – that’s what I’ll be doing for my birthday.’ Find out more at the thecrabshellinn.com and wildartichokes.co.uk. • Beach time. ‘Even when we previously lived on Dartmoor, we have always gravitated to Bigburyon-Sea, the beach that overlooks Burgh Island. My son Raz particularly feels the pull – he’s a keen surfer and now a surf instructor, so we have spent many hours there over the years.’ Go to discoverysurf.com to find out about lessons. • Fishing. ‘We sometimes take the boat out to go mackerel fishing either just over Salcombe Bar or behind Burgh Island.’

good composition. This place wouldn’t serve as a functional family home, there’s no washing machine here, we’ve just included the best bits.’ Since opening to guests in October 2019, the boathouse has sparked numerous marriage proposals and is a popular destination for honeymoons and anniversaries. It’s mission accomplished for Miranda’s romantic plan. Bowcombe Boathouse in Kingsbridge, Devon, TQ7 1LA (bowcombeboathouse. com) sleeps two and costs from £205 per night, two-night minimum stay, book via canopyandstars.co.uk. Miranda’s still life and landscape paintings can be found at mirandagardiner.co.uk.

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coast FOOD

SUSTAINABLE

SEAFOOD

From his South Devon HQ, Mitch Tonks runs his chain of Rockfish restaurants and takeaways, offering diners superb seafood fished from local waters by the Brixham fleet WORDS CAROLINE WHEATER

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coast FOOD

PHOTOGRAPH, TOP LEFT & ROCKFISH, THIS PAGE MATT AUSTIN

‘The ﬁshermen here are really good people, and they are always looking to adjust their ways to the new science of sustainability’

‘I

’ve travelled and cooked around the globe and Britain’s south coast fishery is the best in the world. At Brixham harbour in Devon, boats land 40 to 50 wild caught species every day,’ says renowned chef, Mitch Tonks, who buys produce from Brixham Fish Market for his flagship restaurant, The Seahorse in Dartmouth, and his chain of Rockfish restaurants and takeaways. It’s not just the variety that makes this fishery worth £40m a year, but the quality too. ‘The huge flow of seawater coming in and out of the English Channel every day brings with it nutrients and food for marine life, so the flavour of the catch is superb.’ Mitch has lived in Brixham for

ABOVE Chef and restaurateur Mitch Tonks is a champion of sustainable fishing LEFT & OPPOSITE Rockfish is a popular south-coast destination for those who love fish, with restaurants and takeaways dotted all along the coast from Plymouth to Poole

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coast FOOD

ABOVE A new rope-cultured mussel farm developed in Lyme Bay is producing fantastic mussels, Mitch says LEFT Shellfish and crustaceans are always a popular offering on the Rockfish menus

THE ROCKFISH EXPERIENCE 15 years and never tires of the sights and sounds of the town’s 100-strong fishing fleet. A host of day boats (including his own vessel, Rockfisher) land John Dory, Dover and lemon sole, turbot and brill. Larger trawlers spend up to a week netting sole, plaice and turbot, while hake boats venture into the Atlantic Ocean to find shoals of this ultra-sustainable fish. Then there are the small craft that service netters, potters and divers harvesting shellfish and crustaceans. For many years Mitch has supported sustainable fishing, and lauds the efforts of the Brixham fleet to improve practices within an already well-managed fishery. Most of the boats use nets with mesh dimensions larger than the legal requirement to allow smaller fish to swim away. ‘The fishermen here are really good people, and they are always looking to adjust their ways to the new science. A huge amount of money has been invested

into a new rope-cultured mussel farm in Lyme Bay, which is producing fantastic mussels, and there’s investment in scallop lantern nets too. We’re working towards being sustainable.’ And Mitch is also a big fan of Marine Conservation Zones. ‘We don’t need to fish everywhere and it’s important to protect breeding areas to keep stocks plentiful,’ he points out. During the Covid-19 pandemic, Mitch vowed to save every job in his business and developed different ways to reach customers, such as selling fish direct from the Rockfisher, launching a retail outlet at Brixham Fish Market, and starting up Rockfish Delivered, a menu service delivered nationwide by courier. ‘A new market has opened up offering people a food experience at home – our crab thermidor served on toast has gone down really well,’ he remarks, adding that he plans to continue this service once normality has returned.

• You can enjoy the Rockfish taste in your own home with Rockfish Delivered, which sends Seafood Experience Boxes nationwide. Go to therockfish.co.uk to see menus and to order. A box containing Dover sole, crab thermidor and smoked salmon costs £87. • Eat out at Rockfish Brixham and afterwards buy fish at the new retail outlet in Brixham Fish Market. All to be found at Fish Quay, Brixham – call 01803 850872 to book a table. Find other Rockfish venues at therockfish.co.uk. • Enjoy Mitch Tonks’ sustainable approach to buying and cooking fish at his flagship restaurant, The Seahorse, 5 South Embankment, Dartmouth. Call 01803 835147 or go to seahorserestaurant.co.uk to book.

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Potted South Devon crab You will need: • 250g brown meat from South Devon crab • 150g white meat from South Devon crab • Splash of cognac • 1 tsp ground fennel seeds • 1 crumbled dried chilli • 100g melted butter plus 50g for pouring on top • Fennel fronds • Juice and zest of ½ a lemon

Method (SERVES 4) 1. Melt the butter, stir in the crabmeat, cognac, fennel, lemon juice, chilli and zest, then season and taste. 2. Put into ramekins and pour a little melted butter over the top, and sprinkle with the fennel fronds. 3. Chill well and serve with toast.

coast FOOD

Hake with sweet garlic and good olive oil You will need:

CRAB PHOTOGRAPH SYLVETTE PEPLOWSKI HAKE PHOTOGRAPH PETE CASSIDY

• Olive oil • 6 hake steaks • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper • 2 cloves of garlic, very finely sliced • Good extra virgin olive oil • Juice of ½ a lemon • A handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Method (SERVES 2) 1. Heat a heavy-based frying pan until really hot, then add just enough olive oil to fry the fish in. Season the steaks with a light sprinkling of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Lay the fish in the pan and fry for a minute or two, then add the garlic. Keep frying till the garlic is golden brown with a sweet flavour. Turn the fish after 2-4 minutes and cook it for 3 minutes on the other side. Make sure the garlic doesn’t burn. Remove the fish from the pan to a serving dish.

2. With the pan off the heat, add a good splash of your finest extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of sea salt to the garlic and juices left in the pan. The residual heat of the pan will be sufficient to warm it all through; there is no need to put it back on the flame. Add a good squeeze of lemon juice, then the flat-leaf parsley, and give it all a good stir. You just know even before you dress the fish that it is going to taste delicious.

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Cuttleﬁsh with Nam Jim sauce You will need:

PHOTOGRAPH CHRIS TERRY

• 3 medium cuttlefish cleaned – get your fishmonger to do this • Juice of 1 lime • 3 garlic cloves • 2 tbsp grated palm sugar • 2 red chillis, chopped • A small handful of coriander with stalks • 2 shallots finely chopped (small Thai red ones are best) • Salt • 2 tbsp fish sauce

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Method (SERVES 4) 1. Make the Nam Jim sauce first. Crush the coriander, garlic and salt using a pestle and mortar, add chillis and crush, then add fish sauce, lime juice and sugar, taste and balance the flavours by adding more lime, sugar or fish sauce – you want, salty, sweet and hot. 2. Score the cuttlefish diagonally with cuts about

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10mm apart on the inside so there is a criss-cross pattern, the depth of the cuts should go down to, but not through, the other side. Brush with oil and season with salt. 3. Cook with the cut side nearest the heat until charred and golden. Spoon the dressing liberally over the ﬁsh.

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coast DISCOVERY

COASTAL DISCOVERY

THE REEF This month William Thomson explores the natural beauty of the reefs scattered around the UK coastline, from Skomer to Scotland, where snorkellers and scuba divers can glimpse a bewitching underwater world

ABOVE William Thomson FRGS is author/illustrator of The Book of Tides and founder of Tidal Compass (tidalcompass.com)

UK dolphins are so friendly that occasionally they have been known to become a bit overfamiliar with divers. Reefs are such a fantastic place that we even make artiﬁcial ones. One of the best known is Boscombe, just off the coast in Bournemouth. Originally intended for surfers, the idea was to create an iconic surf break with fast hollow waves stereotypical to reefs. Because waves break when the water gets shallow, if the seabed shallows gradually then waves will also break gradually. But with a reef there is typically a rapid shallowing as they rise up to the surface from deep water, so the waves break quickly with steep faces and hollow barrels that surfers fondly nickname the ‘green room’. However, these rooms come with dangers so they are only for experienced wave riders; the problem with Boscombe is that the arrangement of the reef

created such dangerous waves that they were even on the risky side for the local daredevils, so the reef was deemed unsuitable for surfing. After extensive reshaping failed to make a safer wave, the idea of an artificial surfing reef was let go and the focus turned underwater, focusing on reefs as fantastic environments for snorkelling and scuba diving. While scuba diving takes more effort than snorkelling, the results pay off. As a snorkeller, you are mainly restricted to the surface and can only go under for as long as you can hold your breath (a couple of minutes after lots of training). But with a tank of air strapped onto your back even a beginner diver can enjoy the wonders of the deep for over half an hour before they need to consider returning to the surface – which you won’t ever want to do after discovering the amazing world that lies beneath our waves.

PHOTOGRAPH PADI (PADI.COM)

or such a simple word, the ‘reef’ is an extraordinarily varied tidal environment. Defined by the International Hydrographic Dictionary as ‘a mass of rock or coral which either reaches close to the sea surface or is exposed at low tide’, there are two main types; fringing reefs and barrier reefs. Fringing reefs extend out from the shore, while barrier reefs are separated from the coast by a lagoon. What both have in common is that they create a home for a phenomenal range of underwater creatures. While Britain’s cold waters do not encourage the growth of shallow coral found in the tropics, this is made up for by the multi-coloured sea life. On any reef around Britain you might expect to find such wonders as the seahorse, sea sponges, anemones, starfish and sea slugs – not to mention inquisitive seals and playful dolphins. Be aware though, some

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coast DISCOVERY

‘On any reef around Britain you might expect to ﬁnd such wonders as the seahorse, sea sponges, anemones, starﬁsh and sea slugs – not to mention inquisitive seals and playful dolphins’ coa stm a ga zin e.co.uk

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True, the water is cold, but with a dry suit on you will be toasty warm and there is so much to see that you won’t even feel the chill on your exposed cheeks. Wrecks are also a key feature of UK diving and each one has become its own reef supporting an entire ecosystem,

regardless of whether it once used to be a galleon, trading vessel, warship or submarine. And best of all, these are all there waiting for you to explore, cloaked in a blanket of blue that only reveals its secrets when you get up close.

REEFS WHAT TO EXPECT... UNDERWATER LIFE Reefs create a space for a variety of sea life to thrive, ranging from tiny plankton to large porpoises and everything in between. Despite lacking the colourful coral commonly found in the shallow seas of tropical climates, Britain does have a deep-water coral called Lophelia that thrives on the cold waters off the west coast of Scotland.

STEEP SIDES On the side facing the open sea, reefs generally tend to be steep sided with a drop off into deep water. This creates steep breaking waves when there is a swell and, in turn, they generate strong undercurrents. However, the ‘inside’ of the reef typically shallows gently and provides gentler conditions.

FAST WAVES Because waves break when the water gets shallow, if the seabed shallows gradually then the waves will also break gradually. However, with a reef there is typically a rapid shallowing as they rise up to the surface from deep water, so the waves break quickly with steep faces and hollow barrels. This makes them more challenging to surf, which is why many reefs are only recommended for experienced riders and professionals.

STRONG CURRENTS The channels within or between reefs can concentrate fast currents that, in turn, generate overfalls or whirlpools. For these reasons you should avoid diving reefs at the times of maximum ﬂow and instead go around slack water when the streams are slowest, lacking the power to generate the dangers. Neap tides will be the best time, as slack water lasts longer and streams are slowest.

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The island of Skomer lies off the coast of Pembrokeshire and is the only MCZ (Marine Conservation Zone) in Wales. Famous for its incredible seabird colonies, the island’s many birds need food and their meals can be found underwater in an environment that is teeming with sea life small and large. Divers have counted 100 different sea sponges, 40 species of anemone and 65 types of sea slug – all in the reefs surrounding Skomer. However, don’t get too mesmerised by the sea life – remember also to check the tides as streams can race though gaps in the reef at seven knots, generating dangerous whirlpools and overfalls. The secret is to time any dives here for around slack water when these dangers are having a breather.

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DIVING AROUND OUR ISLES back down. A fun way to experiment with this is the ‘handsfree’ push-ups by touching the tip of your ﬁns on the seabed and breathing in to pivot up, then exhaling to drop down until your nose touches the sand, then breathing in again to push up; all with your hands behind your back. The greatest appeal of UK diving is mostly around the reefs and wrecks, of which there are many thousands lying just off our beaches. The most famous site for wrecks is Scapa Flow in the Orkney Islands where the Germans scuttled their ﬂeet at the end of WWI so as not to let it fall into British hands. Those ships now lie at the bottom of this sheltered body of water (it is a huge natural harbour) with fantastic visibility, which is why the area is a magnet for divers. But you don’t need to travel the length of the UK to enjoy a wreck; there’s almost certain to be one worth diving within a short boat trip from any harbour. Next month, William will explore the geographical features of cliffs.

PADI has Dive Shops all around the UK and Ireland. You can find your local one at locator.padi.com

A well-fitting mask is a worthwhile investment – go to uk.aqualung.com

PHOTOGRAPH PADI (PADI.COM)

While many people only think of diving in tropical locations, Britain has some of the world’s best dive sites and there are PADI operators all around our shores. PADI stands for Professional Association of Diving Instructors and its Open Water course often starts in a pool; by minimising the distractions of the sea you can concentrate on getting to grips with the equipment properly. Taking your first breath underwater is something you will never forget. Once this milestone has been passed and you become accustomed to filling and emptying your BCD (Buoyancy Control Device) with air to make your ascend and descend, you will be ready for the open sea. Once out on the reef, the skill of maintaining neutral buoyancy becomes an almost meditative obsession. Firstly, you fill your BCD with just the right amount of air. Then you slow your breathing so that a gentle inhalation brings you up a little because the air in your lungs increases your buoyancy – but a long and slow exhale takes you

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SEADOGS

If there’s anything more joyful than making a visit to the coast in any season, it has to be heading there with your beloved dog DOG-FRIENDLY PLACE TO STAY The Barn at Fernlea, Lytham St Annes, Lancashire This converted 1800s barn is in a private spot close to Lytham St Annes, so it’s ideal for exploring the Fylde Coast and the lovely Lancashire countryside – and of course for those who love their golf. Blackpool and Lancaster are also nearby. Sleeping two and welcoming one dog, this 4-star romantic retreat can be made all the more special by adding in a tailored private dining experience. And to the side of the property is an open garden with mature trees and flower beds, garden furniture and a barbecue – perfect for al fresco dining. There’s also off-road parking. PRICE For seven nights, prices start from £369. Dogs are charged at £20 each per full or part week. HOW DO I BOOK? Visit holidaycottages.co.uk.

SOOTHING BALM Dry skin is never good, whether you’re an old dog or a young pup. So find award-winning skin, nose and paw balms that protect, soothe and moisturise all year round from the good people at Hownd. In summer these balms are perfect for protecting snouts and outer ears from harmful sun exposure, while in winter they will protect paw pads from icy or gritted pavements. Plus Hownd products are 100% vegan, unscented and natural – a win for skin! (£10, dogslovehownd.com).

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HELP A HOUND If you’re one of the people who has enjoyed sending and receiving more cards or letters over the past year’s lockdowns, then put those used stamps to good use by sending them off to the Greyhound Trust. Every kilogram of stamps that it collects can be sold in aid of the charity, helping to raise hundreds of pounds to support greyhounds each year. Send them to: Greyhound Trust Stamp Appeal, ‘Wings’, Peeks Brook Lane, Horley, Surrey RH6 9SX or ﬁnd out more at greyhoundtrust.org.uk/support-us/other-waysto-help/collecting-used-stamps. Make sure to put the right postage on your package of stamps though – you don’t want to defeat the object by leaving the charity to make up a shortfall.

coast DOGS IN ASSOCIATION WITH FORTHGLADE For those looking for something extra special for their dog’s big day, check out Forthglade’s new Birthday Box, which can be personalised. Packed with goodies: Devon-made natural meals, a Green & Wilds toy, two types of tasty natural treats, stylish poo bag dispenser and bags, a birthday card and a recipe for making ‘Pupcakes’ at home (£14.99, forthglade.com).

DOG of the MONTH This photo shows our wonderful working cocker, Teasel, taken at Harlyn Bay a couple of years ago. Teasel adores the beach and we are lucky to be fairly close to Wittering, but our favourites beaches are in North Cornwall. Anneliese Nicholls Email your coastal canine photographs to coast.copy@kelsey.co.uk.

ALL ABOUT DOGS All About Dogs has confirmed new dates for its 2021 shows. Five shows are due to take place across the country, including the new Paws at the Palace event at Blenheim Palace in early July. The programme includes shows, events, arena displays, demonstrations, activities and family entertainment as well as expert advice and plenty of pooch shopping opportunities. If government guidelines mean that any events have to be postponed, ticket holders will be able to move their booking or be entitled to a refund. For more details and to book tickets, visit allaboutdogsshow.co.uk.

WORDS ANNE-CLAIRE HEELS

HOME COMFORTS As a nation, we adore our pets, so Keylime Design has created a collection of pet-themed cushions that feature many favourite breeds. Greyhounds, whippets, border terriers, labradors and lots more are included in its best-selling ranges – made with highquality printed fabrics,

with details such as piped edges and button backs adding to the luxury ﬁnish. Prices start at £32.95 and coast readers can enjoy a 15% discount across the entire range – use the code COAST15 at checkout – offer ends on 30 July (keylimedesign.co.uk). coast mag az ine.co.uk

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coast LETTERS

Your coast

Our ocean-loving readers share their news, views and photographs from all around the British coastline I’D LOVE TO HEAR YOUR VIEWS! Please email me with your ideas, feedback, creative projects and reports of your coastal adventures at coast.ed@kelsey.co.uk.

Alex Fisher, Editor-in-Chief @alexﬁshermedia

FLASH, BANG, WALLOP

~ 1940s ~ This is me when I was four years old with my parents, Ann and Ben Fynn, on a trip to Cliftonville in 1947. Alex Fynn

STRANDED ON A FROZEN DANISH ISLAND I have subscribed to coast for several years and I love it. coast is relaxing and informative and has been extra-important for us during the pandemic restrictions. The cold winter months and having isolation forced on us by Covid-19 sparked memories of a situation we found ourselves in a few years ago: being cut off on a small, frozen Danish island – two sexagenarians alone with animals and poultry needing help. There’s a lovely archipelago, often called the Danish South Sea Islands. One of these is Vejroe, which used to house a community of farmers, ﬁshermen, lighthouse keepers, a grocer and a school. Vejroe is roughly 2.6km long and 700m wide but at that time had fallen into a sad picture of neglect. A cosy weekend visiting my husband Erik turned into a prolonged stay when nature took over and real winter suddenly arrived. Vejroe III had popped me effortlessly from Kragenaes Harbour on the neighbouring island of Lolland, just a 20-minute trip. But two days later, after an extreme drop in temperatures, the harbour was frozen solid. Nothing prepared me for the unexpected challenge of being marooned. Alone on the icy island with Erik, it was just a matter of knuckling down. We were okay – we had food, hot water and central heating. But the poor animals were quickly becoming pretty desperate. The biggest problem was their drinking water. Erik spent hours rigging up alternative water supplies for Dexter cattle, sheep, pigs and Icelandic ponies. Wild deer and pheasants had to be fed too. Then he had to check that the

INSPIRATION FROM THE SEA I have been so inspired by your article ‘Shark Invested’, in the March issue. The next day after reading it, I went into my studio and carved this piece. It is 45cm long. I am a professional sculptor, and this is not the ﬁrst time your magazine has inspired me, as I make a large range of marine life (whales, dolphins, sea birds, etc) in wood and metal. John Mainwaring

buildings were frost-free. All I could do was provide moral support and save poultry. On day 10, the cloud broke and my adventure culminated in a lift in a helicopter with a dishy pilot. Super views of the islands well and truly frozen! Five minutes later we landed in Kragenaes and I lost my helicopter to a carpenter and ﬁtter so they could join Erik and give much-needed practical assistance. Now, the situation forced on us by Covid-19 made me ponder on the experience, the power and whims of Nature and how we tackle challenges. Debby Harrop Hansen

WHAT YOU TWEETED… @LydiaSRusling Brilliant to see the new #TownDeal investment featured in @coastmag – thank you. An inspiring new project for the Lincolnshire coast thanks to support from @EastLindseyDC and @ConnectedCoastL @PatrickNorris1 Thanks to @SteveNewman @coastmag for featuring Footsteps in Northumberland in the April 2021 edition. Lots to read about Northumberland too!

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