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Rick Stein’s Cornish buns • Expert guide to rosé • Margarita cheesecake deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Make.Eat.Share

Roll on summer!

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Stunning recipes for eating outside

Cajun-style chicken, foolproof steaks, cheesy chorizo nachos

NEW TWIST

Eton mess roulade

Fire up the grill • Salmon with ginger • Caraway pork chops • Feta & peach parcels

Ben Tish’s Sicily • Cauliflower fritters • Stuffed aubergines • Limoncello ice cream

Healthy eating • Dale Pinnock’s vegan special • Cut your salt habit

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welcome.

une: the month of summer berries, chilled rosé,

PORTRAIT: PAUL MITCHELL. FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS: MAJA SMEND, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

picnics… And the return of cooking outside. This year feels special, though. As I write, many of us at delicious. are vaccinated and looking forward to some freedom. We’re excited for our friends in the restaurant industry getting back on their feet, and we’re thankful for the chance to cook and eat with family and friends – even if cautiously for now. I’ll be embracing the joy… And the noise! I’ve so missed the buzz of having people over. To get you started, our fantastic grills on p26 will give you plenty of barbecue inspiration. We’ve given alternatives if the weather doesn’t play ball, and there are new tricks to try. There’s lots to get excited about in Ben Tish’s ode to the food and culture of Sicily (p38). Top of the list? His limoncello semifreddo. We also travel to Cornwall where Rick Stein shares his classic saffron buns (p112) – the best excuse to whip out the clotted cream. For the party planners, you’ll love our ridiculously cheesy nachos, margaritas and more on p49. Need a good read with a cuppa? Sue Quinn looks at whether our salt habit is bad for our health (p80) and Deborah Robertson (p18) had me chuckling about whether, post-lockdowns, we’ll really care about table manners anymore. Get in touch – we’d love to hear from you – and don’t forget our newly created reader Facebook panel (see p14), the place to meet other delicious. cooks and share what you’re making. Let the summer begin!

Food editor, delicious. magazine

Follow me on instagram @JenBedloe

My recipe of the month… Our easy bakes special (p96) is all about the strawberries, and deputy food ed Jess’s fondant fancies brought a wave of nostalgia… Corr, how long since you had a Mr Kipling? It brought back fond memories of tea parties at my Granny’s house.

Contents June Starters.

11 delicious. world News, views, dates and June’s talking point – plus prizes! 18 A cook’s view Debora Robertson asks: have we forgotten how to be guests? 23 A glass of wine with... The new MasterChef champion Tom Rhodes COVER RECIPE Eton mess roulade p62 RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON

Make. Eat. Share. FOR GLORIOUS WEEKENDS 26 Fire up the grill Looking for a flavourful steak to barbecue? There’s the rub! 36 June’s best crunchy pickles Gill Meller’s fave ferment 38 Markets, mountains and magical memories Culinary adventures in Sicily 49 Get ready for la fiesta! Food and cocktails, Mexican-style 58 The easy roast for two Ibérico pork with beans

Olé! A Mexican-style feast – plus a trio of margaritas

112

60 The veggie Sunday lunch Creamy potato and leek pie 62 Eton mess roulade Roll up, roll up… It’s a winner! 64 Letter to a food legend James Ramsden writes to his hero Nigel Slater

Health. 72 Eat your way to better health The Medicinal Chef’s nutri-packed vegan recipes 79 Health matters Fad-free diet news and advice 80 How to shake your salt habit Taking a smarter approach to seasoning

Make life simple. EASY FOOD FOR BUSY NIGHTS 86 The weeknight picnic Meals to pack and take with you 93 Budget recipe Creamy salmon pasta bake 94 Use it up Veggie fritters and more ideas for leftovers

Rick Stein shares his recipe for golden saffron buns

96 Strawberry delights Simple bakes to showcase berries

The hub. SKILLS, TIPS AND BEST BUYS 108 Jen’s kitchen Our food ed’s tips, picks and product tests 110 Food geek Work some mirepoix magic 112 The technical bake Rick Stein’s Cornish saffron buns 114 Thanks, Dad! Show him some love with these foodie gifts 116 Kitchen bookshelf Books to get you outside and grilling 117 Green kitchen Ideas and advice for eco living 118 5 of the best pizza ovens 119 UK cheese tour A creamy creation from Somerset 120 Cheers! Vineyard visits and a guide to the best rosés 122 Champion producers Get out the sparkling wine for Tayport Distillery’s raspberry liqueur 124 Recipe index

These dishes are made for a picnic – even on a weeknight

Other great stuff. 8 68 83 102 104 105 106 116 125 130

Time to get fermenting with Gill Meller’s gorgeous pickles

Chef Ben Tish tastes his way round the island of Sicily

Made for sharing A spicy twist on spaghetti with meatballs Style secrets for open-air dining Coming next month SUBSCRIBE and save up to £36 with a free welcome gift READER OFFER Wagyu beef delivered to your door Appetite for change Beekeeping projects creating a buzz HONE YOUR COOKING SKILLS ONLINE with WhitePepper COMPETITION Win a stay at The Alverton Hotel in Cornwall Take five Brain teasers – our food quiz and crossword Not for sharing You deserve this mushroom burger

Simple and satisfying strawberry custard creams deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5

The

manıfesto

The values underpinning everything we do and everything we are

Cooking is for everyone

You can trust us

Keeping it simple

The planet matters

Knowledge is good!

If we could get everyone in the world cooking we would. Food brings people together – families, friends, communities – and it’s a pleasure. We believe every child has the right to learn how to make proper, nutritious meals – and to discover the fun and joy of cooking.

Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, at least twice, using domestic ovens and hobs, so you can be confident our recipes work every time. When it comes to reviews, we only recommend stuff we rate and deem to be of good quality and worth the price tag.

Eating locally and seasonally, whenever you can, is a no-brainer. We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find any unusual ones or what to swap them for. As for everyday meals, they should be quick and easy, because… LIFE.

We believe it’s wise to eat more vegetables, less meat and less fish, and to ensure the meat and fish you do eat are sustainably sourced. In every issue you’ll find updates on the latest ways to cook and equip your kitchen in a way that’s kinder to the home planet.

We love to get you trying new challenges in the kitchen. Learning and honing skills makes cooking rewarding... That’s why you’ll find plenty of tips, how-to guides and videos for new techniques. We’re on a journey together to be better cooks, with lots of enjoyment along the way.

EYE TO EYE MEDIA LTD, AXE & BOTTLE COURT, 70 NEWCOMEN STREET, LONDON SE1 1YT deliciousmagazine.co.uk FOR SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 01858 438424 Karen Barnes Editorial director, delicious. ART DESK Jocelyn Bowerman Art director, delicious. Naomi Lowe Head of design, Eye to Eye Media Helen Bull Art director, Eye to Eye Media EDITORIAL DESK info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk Les Dunn Managing editor, delicious. Hugh Thompson Projects editor Phoebe Stone Feature writer and co-ordinator, delicious. DIGITAL DESK Vic Grimshaw Head of digital, Eye to Eye Media Fiona Logan Digital editor and content producer Thea Everett Content producer Dorothy Kay Videographer

FOOD DESK Jen Bedloe Head of food, Eye to Eye Media Jess Meyer Acting deputy food editor (maternity cover) Sophie Austen-Smith Deputy food editor Laura McLeish Shoot production manager laura.mcleish@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk Sue McMahon, Nicola Roberts Recipe testers Fiona Hunter Nutritionist MARKETING & PROMOTIONS Trinity Hislop Marketing executive trinity.hislop@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk CONTRIBUTORS Susy Atkins Wine editor Gill Meller, Sue Quinn, Debora Robertson With thanks to: Tina Betts, Holly Hawthorne, Stephanie Thomson

EYE TO EYE MEDIA Seamus Geoghegan Managing director 020 7803 4123 seamus.geoghegan@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk Adrienne Moyce Publishing director adrienne.moyce@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk Jo Sandilands Consultant editorial director Jake Hopkins Production director Darren Blundy Finance director darren.blundy@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk Adam Wright Finance manager 01733 373135 adam.wright@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk ADVERTISING SALES Jason Elson Advertising director 020 7150 5394 jason.elson@immediate.co.uk Roxane Rix Group head, partnerships 020 7150 5039 roxane.rix@immediate.co.uk Liz Reid Head of sales 020 7150 5439 liz.reid@immediate.co.uk

delicious. magazine is published under licence from News Life Media by Eye to Eye Media Ltd. ISSN 1742-1586. Printed in the UK by Walstead Group Ltd. Colour origination by Rhapsody. Copyright Eye to Eye Media Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations. Eye to Eye Media Ltd is a registered data user whose entries in the Data Protection Register contain descriptions of sources and disclosures of personal data. This paper is manufactured using pulp taken from well managed, certified forests. All prices correct at time of going to press. UK basic annual subscription rate for 12 issues is £59.88. Overseas subscriptions for 12 issues available on request. Back issues cost £6 each. Member of the Audit Bureau of Circulations. delicious. is a trademark of News Life Media.

6 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

For a breakfast that’s

bursting with taste and delicious crunchy oat clusters, try Jordans Granolas

Created by Nature, Crafted by Jordans

Made for sharıng Recipe for two

Is it possible to improve on spaghetti and meatballs? After you’ve tried this Southeast Asian-inspired version your answer may well be “Yes indeed!” The only problem? You’re supposed to be sharing it RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: DAN JONES. FOOD STYLING: JULES MERCER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

Sticky sausage meatball noodles Serves 2-3 Hands-on time 20 min Sriracha is a hot sauce made from red chillies, garlic, vinegar, salt and sugar. It has a hot, tangy, sweetly addictive flavour. It’s used as a condiment in Thai and Vietnamese cooking, but is a great addition to marinades and sauces. This recipe is meant to be spicy, so serve the sauce on the side if you’re sensitive to chilli heat. KNOWHOW

For the sauce • 1 tbsp soy sauce, plus a splash for the meatballs • 2 tbsp sriracha sauce • 1 tbsp rice wine • 30g dark brown sugar • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 1cm piece fresh ginger, grated

For the meatballs • 6 large outdoor-reared pork sausages • Bunch spring onions, half finely chopped, half finely sliced • Sunflower oil for frying • 100g mangetout • 100g asparagus, green beans or tenderstem broccoli • 275g cooked udon noodles or Yukata frozen noodles • 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds • Handful coriander leaves/sprigs to serve • Lime wedges for squeezing 1 To make the sauce, combine all the ingredients in a small pan over a low-medium heat. Cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes. Set aside. 2 Remove the sausagemeat from the casings and put in a bowl with the finely chopped spring onions, a splash of soy and lots of black pepper to season. Mix well,

then shape into 12 meatballs. 3 Heat a frying pan/wok with a splash of sunflower oil and fry the sausage meatballs, turning, until browned all over and almost cooked through (6-8 minutes). Remove and set aside. Wipe out the pan if need be and add a splash more oil, then stir-fry the green veg for 2-3 minutes, adding a splash of water to get some steam going in the pan. 4 Add the meatballs to the pan with half the sauce, the noodles and a splash of water, then cook, turning gently, until everything is hot. Serve with the remaining sauce drizzled over (see Knowhow), sprinkled with the sliced spring onions, sesame seeds and coriander, with lime wedges for squeezing. Per serving (for 3) 603kcals, 31.1g fat (9.1g saturated), 37.6g protein, 40.5g carbs (17.5g sugars), 2.9g salt, 5.8g fibre

together time.

NEXT MONTH

Celebrate 4 July with a pile of juicy buffalo wings deliciousmagazine.co.uk 9

delicious.

world Go behind the scenes, get in the know, share your thoughts and creations – and join the conversation. Compiled by Phoebe Stone

Food festivals (such as Aldeburgh, pictured) are back on the menu for summer 2021 – hurrah! A great way to discover smaller producers and enjoy a full-flavoured day out. With safety in mind, many events have limited capacity and require booking – find your local fest and get planning.

PHOTO: ALISTAIR GRANT/BOKEH PHOTOGRAPHIC

News • Views • Cook & win • Meet the reader •

Good vibes and good food

Diary dates • Talking point • And more…

Coming to a town near you… The touring festivals Pub in the Park, 18 Jun to 19 Sep Music by Basement Jaxx, Toploader and Beverley Knight meets food by local pubs and chefs at Tom Kerridge’s roaming festival*. From £35, pubintheparkuk.com Foodies Festival, 9 Jul to 3 Oct Music, shopping and

a bunch of talented chefs, including 2021 MasterChef champ Tom Rhodes (see p23), 2020 winner Thomas

Frake and Professionals winner Alex Webb. From £19, foodies festival.com The Great British Food Festival, 29 May to 26 Sep Street food, demos and artisan markets at heritage venues. From £12.50, greatbritish foodfestival.com

The UK’s big three food festivals Abergavenny Food Festival, Wales, 18-19 Sep Fun and feasting on the Welsh Borders, with local producers and guests. £10, abergavenny foodfestival.com Ludlow Food Festival, Shropshire, 10-12 Sep Special guests and fine

producers at Ludlow Castle. Check out the Magnalonga on 8 Aug too – a four-course, 8-mile food walk (from £26). £12, foodfestival.co.uk Aldeburgh Food & Drink Festival, Suffolk, 25-26 Sep An insiders’ favourite showcasing ingredients

made in Suffolk, plus top talks and family fun. £10, aldeburghfood anddrink.co.uk

Find our full food festival calendar**, organised by region, at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/summerfestivals

BOOK A TASTE OF VENICE Explore Italy’s floating city with restaurateur Russell Norman, who’ll be discussing his latest cookbook (above) with Italian food writer Ursula Ferrigno at Oxford restaurant Arbequina on 1 July. The pair will prepare fennel and anchovy skewers, fig, prosciutto & mint crostini and more (with plenty of prosecco). £90; book at jerichokitchen. co.uk/food-talks

This month’s must-follow

@poppyokotcha on Instagram

Who’s behind the @?

What’s great about her feed?

You may have spotted eco-grower Poppy Okotcha on Channel 4’s The Great Garden Revolution last month. After moving to Devon last year, she’s working with nature to transform her overgrown garden into a resilient, edible space, sharing what she learns along the way.

Poppy’s passion for connecting with nature radiates from her posts – from the joys of going glove-free in the soil to lyrical meditations on foraging. Follow her adventures in green gardening: exploring sustainable growing materials, companion planting and the ‘no dig’ method.

12 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, STEPHANIE THORNTON PHOTOGRAPHY, ARTUR TIXILISKI. *MUSIC ACTS AND RESTAURANTS VARY BY VENUE; VISIT THE WEBSITE FOR FULL DETAILS. **EVENTS MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGES AND CANCELLATIONS; CHECK BEFORE YOU TRAVEL. PRICES FOR 1 ADULT DAY TICKET

delicious. world.

e pose a orny question on Twitter: if you could only have your chips with one of four chip-shop condiments, which would you choose?

Snap happy

*EVENTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. IF ON-FARM EVENTS AREN’T POSSIBLE, VIRTUAL TOURS WILL BE AVAILABLE

Chinese photographer Li Huaifeng’s photo Taste (above) has won the overall prize in the Pink Lady Food Photographer of the Year 2021 awards. A warm depiction of a young family contentedly preparing foo taken in Licheng, Shanxi. To marvel at all the winners, click on gallery 2021’ at pinkladyfoodphotographeroftheyear.com.

35% 3 10 19% would splash on the vinegar

are ketchup fans – it came a close second

Bake a difference Use your baking skills to support the 850,000 people living with dementia in the UK as part of Cupcake Day on 17 June. Whether you drop off buns with neighbours, host a bake sale or organise a virtual bake-off, you can help raise vital funds for Alzheimer’s Society. Visit alzheimers.org.uk/ cupcake-day; see p96 for some sweet inspiration

Down on the farm

prefer curry sauce, while 13% like theirs with gravy

@ALISONALLAN75 said “None of the above – can I have brown sauce please?” @SYDNEY2303R said “I’m Dutch, so either mayo or (Indonesian) peanut sauce” Make your view count too! Find our polls and questions on Twitter

Show little ones where their food comes from and learn more about farming and sustainability on LEAF Open Farm Sunday, 27 June. Farms nationwide will offer fun activities including guided walks and tractor-and-trailer rides. Booking essential; farmsunday.org*

From the mailbox… Star email

Subject: Memories of pasties past From: James Hooper

THIS MONTH’S STAR EMAIL WINS... …two boxes of premium red and white Portuguese wine worth over £50, by the experts from The Wine Show (Amazon Prime). These delicious wines stay fresher for longer thanks to their box format, which produces less CO2 than glass bottles do. For more information visit thewine show.com/ boxed-wine

FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN... Let us know your thoughts on this month’s issue by emailing us at info@ delicious magazine. co.uk *

14 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

I read with interest Emily Scott’s ‘Cornwall, Sea & Shore’ [May, p26]. I grew up in St Tudy and, as a student, spent my summers as a barman at The Cornish Arms, now The St Tudy Inn. There’s a Cornish adage that says “your mother makes the best pasties”, and when I was at university, my mother sent me two pasties a week in the post! When I used to meet my father to watch Plymouth Argyle, she would send him off with pasties, wrapped in a tea towel and tin foil to keep them warm. I agree with Emily that the beef for a pasty should be skirt but I have to take her to task over her choice of pastry. It must be shortcrust! A true Cornish pasty is crimped along the bottom – otherwise it is a Devon ‘oggie’. Tea should be drunk with a pasty and any sauce must be brown.

ON THE delicious. READER PANEL ON FACEBOOK A reader writes... I have an issue with ‘our symbols explained’ in your Recipe Index. Every vegetarian and vegan recipe is tagged, but only one recipe is tagged as being both gluten and dairy free. It’s explained as ‘recipes you might expect to contain gluten or dairy but don’t’. Why not also say ‘recipes you might expect to contain animal products but don’t’?

Food editor Jen replies... Subject: Restaurant-at-home fail From: Becca Bedson I’ve just read Rebecca Woollard on trying to cook restaurant-quality meals at home [May, p13]. I tried something similar and, while the food was a success, eating it at home just isn’t the same. Pottering around the kitchen for a day was a nice escape from work, despite the stress of receiving (as Rebecca did) frozen lobsters. But normally I’d have invited friends and spent hours afterwards chatting and laughing – it wasn’t the same without them. The only thing to do after was the dishes... And, if I’m being honest, I missed the compliments – plus the excuse to dress up and the anticipation of a fun evening. I’m ready for a summer full of dinner parties, friends and restaurant visits.

HARRIET ELEY ENJOYED DEBORA ROBERTSON’S FEATURE ON COVETING ON-SCREEN KITCHENS [MAY, P16].

“My message feed with my sister is full of pictures of kitchens, pantries and even firepits. I live in a rented flat where I’ve done everything I can to get the best out of the small (slightly grotty) workspace. It’s reassuring to find it’s not just me squirrelling away ideas for my future fantasy kitchen…”

We always try to strike a balance between giving our readers the information they need and too much information, but we take your point. From this month, you’ll find all potentially gluten-free and dairy-free recipes labelled in our Recipe Index (p124).

Have your say Connect with other delicious. cooks on our reader panel on Facebook, where we post fun, food-related questions to help us get to know you better. From time to time, we’ll ask you for your feedback on delicious. – the magazine, website and our social channels. Join at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ readerpanel

delicious. world.

Meet the reader

LETTERS MAY BE EDITED FOR SPACE/CLARITY. PORTRAIT: VOJTECH PAVELCIK. *JUNE’S WINNER WILL BE PUBLISHED IN OUR AUGUST ISSUE

Event manager Anna Rosáková, 32, lives with her boyfriend in Prague, Czech Republic, and loves travel, beer and their three cats

Cook it likewin!) delicious. (and

Food editor Jen Bedloe judges your brilliant attempts at recipes from our April issue

The winner is…

The runners-up

When did you become interested in cooking? Both

my grandmas were excellent cooks and showed me the ropes. My grandpa was a gamekeeper and we’d eat venison all the time. My other grandpa makes the best barbecued chicken – juicy meat and crispy skin!

HANNAH WENDEN’S CREAMY TOMATO ORZO Jen says “I love how inviting your

How did you discover the magazine? I used to visit

London for work and looked forward to buying it. When the pandemic put a stop to travel, I got a subscription. Despite Brexit, it works! I get my issue every month on the same day as UK subscribers. Favourite recipe? I love our slow cooker, so I’m always looking for recipes. Frontera Tejana chilli [Mar 2019, p28 – or find it online] ticks the box. It reminds my boyfriend of his home in Austin, Texas, and the first time we had it we watched Lone Star, as recommended in the feature. Drink order? It’s obvious, since I come from a country where some of the best beers in the world are made! Lager is the ultimate Czech classic, and it’s not just pilsner – there are many local breweries worth discovering.

pan of orzo looks with the warm lighting and tempting bottle of vino in the background.”

SUZE MORRISON’S WILD GARLIC RAVIOLI Suze wins a food processor and health grill/air fryer from Ninja, worth £440. Jen says “Suze has been featured on these pages

before and, once again, her food styling and photography blew me away – she captured such amazing detail and, most importantly, the food looks divine. Congratulations!”

WIN! Prize worth over

£500 TO ENTER and for Ts&Cs, go to delicious magazine.co.uk/ cooktherecipe

KAREN WEEDON’S HERBED MONKEY BREAD Jen says “I loved the styling of

your bread with the spread. It looks easy to pull apart and you’ve got a good layer of herb butter.”

Want to have a go? Cook it like delicious. this month for a chance to win a year’s Founders Club Membership from Edwards 1902 he exclusive founding pack includes a limitededition bottle of Edwards 1902 vodka drawn from the very first spirit run, as well as periodic deliveries throughout the year; you’ll also bag yourself a case of the award-winning vodka. edwards1902.co.uk

GET COOKING AND SHARE A PIC with us by 30 June*

delicious. world.

The talking point

Why has MSG been demonised? It’s so good! Among the ingredients in Mandalay, MiMi Aye’s brilliant treasure-trove of Burmese recipes, is one you seldom see in British cookbooks. And, she says, we’re missing out

Do you have an idea for how we might rebrand MSG? Let us know at info@ delicious magazine. co.uk

’d like to tell you about a wonderful natural seasoning. You find it in foods such as tomatoes and parmesan, and the refined version has been used by cooks and chefs all over the world for over a hundred years to amplify the umami (savouriness) of dishes. Sounds brilliant, doesn’t it? So how come we don’t all have MSG in our cupboards? Well, a lot of us already do. If you use Oxo cubes or Bisto, you’ve got MSG right there. If you like the odd sneaky packet of Monster Munch or Cup-a-Soup, have a bottle of Maggi seasoning or squirt Kewpie mayo on everything – again, the magic ingredient is E621, also known as MSG. So why don’t we use the pure stuff? Sadly, it’s down to a combination of misinformation, prejudice – and possibly even a prank. In 1908, Japanese scientist Kikunae Ikeda ran some experiments on dashi, a stock used by cooks in Japan to add oomph to their dishes, resulting in crystals with the same savoury taste. He called this taste ‘umami’ from umai, the Japanese word for ‘delicious’, thus giving the world a fifth taste to add to sweet, salty, bitter and sour. The year after, Ikeda began mass-producing the crystals as MSG and called it Ajinomoto, which has been used throughout Japan ever since. Fast forward to 1968. A letter from Dr Robert Ho Man Kwok was published in the New England

Journal of Medicine, claiming that eating at Chinese restaurants made the doctor feel unwell. Other readers then claimed they’d had the same experience (though with wildly varying symptoms) and the journal’s editors dubbed it ‘Chinese Restaurant Syndrome’, suggesting MSG was to blame. While it’s true that some people report distressing symptoms after eating food containing MSG, there’s never been any scientific evidence that MSG is the cause. The FDA, the UN and the UK government have all deemed MSG safe to use – multiple studies using placebos have shown no difference in effects after eating food with or without MSG. There’s controversy as to whether Kwok was even real – Dr Howard Steel later claimed he wrote the letter as a joke to win a bet. Unfortunately, no one else got the joke, meaning MSG has been demonised (along with Chinese food) for decades, even though it’s used in countless cuisines. Thankfully, the tide seems to be turning, with chefs such as Heston Blumenthal and David Chang speaking out in defence of the stuff. Even Nigella Lawson has a tub of MSG at home. And Anthony Bourdain straight out said, “You know what causes Chinese restaurant syndrome? Racism.” MSG has even been found to be a blessing during the pandemic, helping Covid sufferers who’ve lost their sense of taste and smell, as it deepens the existing savouriness of a dishes – one of the reasons it’s called a ‘flavour enhancer’. It seems a no-brainer that we should use such a versatile condiment, but for many, MSG remains a dirty word, so perhaps a rebrand is needed… At any rate, it really is time to embrace the umami.

“So why don’t we use it? It’s down to misinformation, prejudice and possibly even a prank”

PHOTOGRAPH: ALAMY. THE CRISIS IN BURMA/MYANMAR IS ONGOING. TO FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN HELP, VISIT BURMACAMPAIGN.ORG.UK

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

TRUE SIMPLICITY Our eggs are patiently laid by traditional breed birds originating from rare breed ancestors. It’s our heritage that gives them their unique flavour. Demand the best - look for the crown.

clarencecourt.co.uk

How to be

good company It’s been a while, but Debora Robertson is ready to dust off the serving platter and set the table. Have we forgotten our table manners, though – and will anyone even care?

18 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS: DAN JONES. FOOD STYLING: JULES MERCER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

a cook’s view.

o you feel a bit feral? Many of us have been confined to quarters for so long that it’s hardly surprising if we no longer feel we know how to behave in polite society. Or any society that expects more from us than sweatpants, slippers and a TV dinner on a tray. The thought that has been keeping me going this past year is the vision of opening my front door on a Friday night to see half a dozen or so of our friends, waiting to come in. I miss a beautifully laid table with all the glittering silver and glass, stiff napkins and candles and flowers. I miss noise and I miss misbehaviour and scandal and gossip. But there’s also a part of me that feels wary of attempting a full-on bacchanal. Perhaps first I need to tread the foothills of sociability with a gentle brunch or an afternoon tea (see my favourite scone recipe overleaf). I’ll also have to clear the dining table of the keyboards and computers that now constitute my husband’s home office, and reacquaint myself with the gleaming mahogany that lies beneath. Oh how I have missed you, table. These past months, as I attempt to go to sleep during those odd, fitful nights of strange dreams that have haunted so many of us, I’ve created menus. It strikes me that some of the things we used to enjoy so much in the past, that struck just the right note of relaxed informality, may not be so appetising any more. Is this the year the sharing plate finally dies? That the once mildly annoying faux pas – double dipping – is elevated to a near-criminal act? And perhaps things once considered bad form now no longer matter. I couldn’t give a hoot if you have your elbows on the table. I never thought stuffy manners mattered. You know the sort of thing: arcane cutlery laws designed to make people feel foolish. Your job as a host is to make guests feel welcome, not as though they’re being tested to get into the diplomatic corps. Of course, some things are important,

“I will have to clear the dining table and reacquaint myself with the gleaming mahogany that lies beneath. Oh how I have missed you, table” and you’ll have more time for them if you’re not having a heart attack over someone using a butter knife on the salad. My ‘rule of three’ is that within five minutes of coming into my house, your coat is hung up, you have a drink in your hand and you’ve been introduced to everyone else. Keeping everything moving along is all that matters. As a guest, however, there are 10 old rules that will serve as an anchor (find more in my book written with Kay Plunkett-Hogge, Manners: A Modern Field Guide): 1. Arrive promptly after the invitation time. 2. If the host says start, start. Don’t wait for everyone to be served. 3. If you’re unsure, work from the outside cutlery inwards – you’ll seldom go wrong. 4. Don’t cut the nose off the brie – cut along the wedge. This allows everyone to enjoy its wonderful centre. 5. If you’re a guest, never clear the plates without being asked. It adds a schooldinners edge to your host’s elegant meal. 6. Never, ever, under any circumstances draw attention to someone else’s faux pas (see above re the cutlery and brie). 7. Talk to everyone – not just the people you already know. 8. Don’t drink yourself into embarrassment. It’s boring for everyone else. 9. If you’re leaving while the party is still in full swing, do so discreetly. 10. Write a note, send an email or text – but whatever you do, say thank you. Turn the page for Debora’s welcoming afternoon tea classic →

Have you come up with any new rules on how to behave? Tell us at info@delicious magazine.co.uk

a cook’s view.

Starting gently with the hosting? Try these... Cheddar, chive and Marmite scones “I love a laid-back afternoon tea, mostly for the scones — preferably cheese scones. I can barely make (or eat) enough of these. My cheese scone game was transformed when my friend, the food writer Thane Prince, told me she puts Marmite in hers, and I’ve added it ever since. Don’t worry if you’re not a Marmite person — it just adds a welcome hit of savouriness. This makes 8 scones, the recipe is a cinch and the only gadget you need is a 6cm cookie cutter.” You’re going to need

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How to get the holiday feeling at home

• 250g self-raising flour, plus a little more for rolling out • 1 tsp baking powder • 40g unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small cubes • 2 tbsp finely chopped chives • 2 tsp Marmite • 130ml whole milk, plus extra for brushing (or use single cream) • 70g mature cheddar (veggie if you need it to be), grated

20 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Heat the oven to 200°C fan/gas 7. Put the flour and baking powder in a bowl with a pinch of salt and give it a good whisk – or sift it into the bowl if you don’t have enough to do. Then briskly rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips until it resembles coarse crumbs, with just a few little nuggets of butter left in. Stir in the chives and a few grinds of black pepper. Whisk the Marmite into the milk, then stir this into the flour using a knife until you have a raggy dough. Turn it out onto a floured surface and pat together gently into a square. With a floured rolling pin, gently roll it out to a rough 22cm x 30cm rectangle. Scatter over three quarters of the cheddar, then fold the dough over itself twice, as if folding a letter (remember those?). Roll it out again and fold it again, then roll to 2cm thick. Done with a very gentle touch, this helps to make the scones flaky and light. Dip a 6cm cutter in flour, then cut out the rounds and place on the baking sheet, quite close together. Brush the tops of the scones with milk or cream, sprinkle with the rest of the cheese, then bake for 16-17 minutes until golden on top. Eat while still warm, split, with lots of butter (and Marmite if you’re a fan) melting into the flaky surface. Per scone 201kcals, 8.2g fat (5g saturated), 6.4g protein, 24.7g carbs (1g sugars), 0.7g salt, 1.3g fibre

Cuvée Rosé, chosen by the best.

Illustrated by Quentin Blake

The Ritz London

MAISON FAMILIALE INDÉPENDANTE champagnelaurentperrier www.cuveerose.com

Photo credit: Iris Velghe / Illustration credit: Quentin Blake

people.

A glass of wine with Tom Rhodes The MasterChef 2021 champion and Nando’s manager on his cooking obsession, admiration for Marcus Rashford and killer dance moves

INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. PORTRAIT: PA. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

Cooking for John and Gregg is really daunting at first. You wonder how strict they are, but they’re supportive and genuinely want you to succeed. John is knowledgeable about so many different cuisines and Gregg has a great ability to relax everyone. He has his dad jokes… I am a big singer and dancer in the kitchen. I turn on the hob, play some Eighties disco and cook. My kitchen has a massive window that looks onto the street and I’m sure people walking past wonder what I’m doing… I’m even more fearful now in case I get ‘papped’ and end up on Twitter looking ridiculous! But life to me is about enjoying yourself. You can’t worry too much about what other people think. Marcus Rashford’s campaign to end child food poverty is one of the good things to have come out of last year. I would like to see more of that. It’s early days for me but being so passionate about everything that encompasses cooking and hearing about food banks and the struggles people have, I’m interested in getting involved with making sure children are fed well and have a sound knowledge of food.

One year it took me three days to make Christmas dinner. Everything, including the bread, was made from scratch. It always is. I can spend three hours making something just for me after coming home from work.

TOM’S END-OFSHIFT SNACK… “I love simple things. I often have leftover rice, so I’ll fry a couple of eggs to go on top, splashed with some spicy chilli oil. And a glass of Italian red. If I’ve had a hard day that would do it for me.”

I’m still at Nando’s and my spice level is still ‘hot’. I think people assumed I jumped ship straightaway, but I’m back now and it’s been nice to see everyone. We’ve done some fantastic things at work, delivering free meals to hospitals, donating food to charities… Lockdown gave us a glimpse into how other people live and created an incredible community spirit, which I hope will stay with us. My life revolves around food. The sea is about half an hour away from where I work in Newcastle, and I love to go to a restaurant by the beach and eat fresh fish. Before I went on MasterChef my mum said, “Don’t say you’re obsessed with food or you’ll sound absurd.” But it’s my thing, my downtime. I have colour-coded cookbooks all over the house: a stack by my bed, more in the living room… You can follow Tom on Instagram and Twitter: @rhodeskitchen deliciousmagazine.co.uk 23

. You haven’t tasted cider until you’ve tasted award-winning SXOLLIE. And you haven’t tasted SXOLLIE Golden Delicious until you’ve tasted it with seafood. The golden liquid bursting with subtle bubbles and sour tropical fruit notes balances beautifully with the mild, slightly sweet taste of scallops, calamari and pulpo. Go on. Dive in and submerge your tastebuds in deliciousness. Golden deliciousness.

E XP LO RE EVERY LA ST DR O P

AVAILABLE AT SELECTED STORES AND ONLINE SXOLLIE.COM 4.5% VOL 18+

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Inspiration and dreams. Magical menus. Taking time.

PHOTOGRAPH: TAVERNE AGENCY

Glorious weekends. Special moments. What’s good now.

››

Firetheup

grill

Re-ignite your passion for the barbecue with these fresh new ideas (it’s all about the spice rubs). And if the sun doesn’t play ball, follow our tips for how to cook indoors

T-bone steak with coffee rub and rosemary potatoes

• 1 tbsp finely chopped rosemary • 5 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp sunflower oil

Serves 6 Hands-on time 45 min, plus marinating Cooking time 25 min You’ll also need Pestle and mortar (or use the end of a rolling pin to grind in a bowl); flameproof baking tray (enamel or cast iron) Useful to have Digital probe thermometer

For the coffee rub • 2 tsp coarse sea salt • 2 tsp granulated sugar • 1 tbsp black peppercorns • 1 tbsp chilli flakes • ½ tbsp garlic granules • 1 tbsp instant coffee powder (we used espresso)

Try the coffee rub with other steaks, such as a juicy ribeye, or on good quality pork chops. Cook the steaks under the DON’T WANT grill, turning once. Roast TO BBQ? the spuds in a hot oven, tossing a few times. For two, serve 1 T-bone SCALE DOWN – the extra rub keeps well in an airtight container – and reduce the potatoes to 300g. NEXT TIME

• 1kg medium-size waxy potatoes, such as charlotte • 3 x T-bone steaks (around 500g each), at room temperature 26 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

1 Put the potatoes in a pan of salted water, bring to the boil, then simmer for 20-25 minutes until tender. Meanwhile, heat/ light a barbecue for direct high heat (coals arranged in a bank in the middle of the barbecue). 2 For the coffee rub, grind the salt, sugar, peppercorns and chilli flakes in a pestle and mortar. Add the garlic granules and coffee powder and mix. Drain the potatoes, then return to the pan. Lightly crush with a potato masher, but try not to break up too much. Leave to cool. 3 Pat the steaks dry with kitchen paper, then massage the coffee

rub all over the meat. Set aside to marinate for 15 minutes. 4 Meanwhile, mix the rosemary with the olive oil. Brush the steaks with sunflower oil, then transfer to the grill. Put the lid down if you have one for a stronger smoky flavour, then grill the steaks for 5-6 minutes on each side for medium rare, or until the meat is done to your liking (the timing does depend how hot your barbecue is; go for 52ºC on a probe thermometer for medium rare). Set the meat aside on a platter somewhere warm to rest for 10 minutes. 5 Brush the cooled potatoes generously with the rosemary oil, then put on the baking tray. Set the tray on the grill to the side of the coals (indirect heat), then barbecue for 8-10 minutes, turning a few times until crisp and golden. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve with the steaks. Per serving 563kcals, 22.9g fat (5.9g saturated), 54.9g protein, 32.2g carbs (2.4g sugars), 1.4g salt, 4.3g fibre →

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T-bone steak with coffee rub and rosemary potatoes

Trout grilled in banana leaf with Asian-style slaw

28 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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Trout grilled in banana leaf with Asian-style slaw Serves 4 Hands-on time 45 min, plus marinating and resting You’ll also need Pestle and mortar (or use the end of a rolling pin to grind in a bowl); small food processor; wooden cocktail sticks Prepare the slaw up to 4 hours in advance, then cover and chill until ready to serve. Prepare the fish parcels 1-2 hours ahead and chill, covered, until ready to cook. Find banana leaves KNOW in Asian supermarkets HOW or online. Alternatively, wrap the trout in foil lined with a sheet of baking paper, scrunching up the ends to create a parcel. Nori sheets (dried seaweed used for sushi) can be found in larger supermarkets or online. Cook the parcels in DON’T WANT TO a large ridged griddle BBQ? pan or under a hot grill. MAKE AHEAD

• 4 banana leaves (see Know-how) • 4 sustainable trout, gutted and fins removed, rinsed • Lime wedges to serve For the slaw • 100g white cabbage, shredded • 300g red cabbage, shredded • ½ tsp salt • 1 tbsp granulated sugar • 1 red onion, halved and sliced into very thin half-moons • 250g carrots, julienne sliced or coarsely grated

• 2 spring onions, finely chopped • Small handful coriander leaves • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped • 20g fresh ginger, finely chopped • 3 tbsp lime juice • 3 tbsp soy sauce • 2 tbsp sunflower oil • ½ tbsp sesame seeds, toasted For the rub • 2 nori sheets (see Know-how) • 1 tbsp coarse sea salt • 1½ tbsp black peppercorns • 2 tbsp granulated sugar • 2½ tbsp sesame seeds, toasted • ½ tbsp garlic granules 1 Heat/light the barbecue for direct medium heat (coals evenly distributed over the base of the barbecue). For the slaw, mix the white and red cabbage in a bowl with the salt and 1 tbsp granulated sugar. Scrunch the cabbage with your hands for about 3 minutes to tenderise it. Set aside to rest for 10 minutes, then put in a colander, discarding any drained liquid. Add the cabbage back to the bowl. 2 Mix the red onion, carrots, spring onions and coriander into the cabbage. In a separate bowl, whisk together the remaining slaw ingredients, then toss with the vegetables,

mixing well to coat everything in the dressing. Cover and chill until ready to serve. 3 For the rub, cut the nori sheets into small pieces, then whizz into fine flakes in a small food processor. Finely grind the sea salt, peppercorns and sugar in a pestle and mortar. Add the nori flakes and sesame seeds and grind again until fine. Stir in the garlic granules. 4 Wipe the banana leaves with a wet cloth/kitchen paper. Cut off any stringy edges, then briefly move the leaves over the hot grill until they begin to turn shiny – this makes them easier to shape. 5 Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper, then press the rub mixture all over the fish and inside the cavity. Put each trout on a banana leaf, then wrap it by folding the sides of the leaf around the fish. Secure the leaves with wooden cocktail sticks to stop the parcels from opening up. Leave to marinate for 10 minutes. 6 Put the fish parcels on the barbecue, then grill for 10 minutes on each side or until the leaves are charred and the fish is cooked through (the fish will flake easily from the bones). Serve the fish parcels with lime wedges to squeeze over and the slaw on the side. Per serving 349kcals, 11.9g fat (1.1g saturated), 34.3g protein, 21.8g carbs (19.9g sugars), 3.3g salt, 8.9g fibre →

Fuel for the BBQ CHARCOAL We recommend buying good quality lumpwood charcoal from sustainable/smaller producers. A lot of charcoal available in the UK is imported from abroad and made using trees felled from tropical rainforests. Arrange the coals in a pile in the centre of the barbecue grill to give you two heat zones: direct (hot/in the centre) and indirect heat (low/around the edges). Or, once the coals are glowing white, spread them over the base of the barbecue to give an even, medium temperature.

SEASONED HARD WOOD Choose a supplier that specialises in drying wood from felled trees or dry out your own wood before using. Choose kiln-dried wood for wood-fired ovens, as it burns wonderfully for a decent amount of time. Avoid using wood from pine, spruce and fir for cooking – their flammable resin causes these to burn too hot and make food taste too smoky. If you plan to set a grill over a campfire, make sure you stand it on lumps of hard wood or brick. Then you can move the grill up or down, depending on what you’re cooking, to vary the heat.

GAS A gas barbecue is a great choice for convenience, but gas is a fossil fuel and therefore non-renewable. You also won’t get quite the same smoky flavour as with charcoal or wood. You can now buy products to put in the barbecue to impart extra flavour – as well as pizza stones that heat up to very high temperatures.

Salmon with lemon and ginger rub and a fennel salad

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Salmon with lemon and ginger rub and a fennel salad Serves 4 Hands-on time 45 min, plus 4 hours soaking and marinating You’ll also need Cedar grilling plank (see Know-how) Useful to have Barbecue with a lid Soak the cedar plank up to 12 hours before you intend to cook the salmon. The salad and dip can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead and stored in the fridge until ready to serve. The rub mix will keep in an airtight container for up to a week. Cedar planks impart KNOWa slightly smoky HOW flavour to the salmon fillets and are good for more delicate items as they protect them from intense heat. They’re available online and from garden centres and shops that sell barbecue equipment. Cook the salmon in a DON’T WANT ridged griddle pan, using TO BBQ? a lid if you have one to boost the smoky flavour. MAKE AHEAD

• 4 sustainable skin-on salmon fillets • 1-2 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp chopped dill to serve For the lemon and ginger rub • Grated zest 2 lemons • 2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted in a dry frying pan • 1 tsp sea salt • 1 tsp black peppercorns • 1 tsp granulated sugar • ½ tsp ground ginger • ½ tsp garlic granules For the fennel salad • 2 fennel bulbs, hard cores removed, thinly sliced • 3 tbsp lemon juice • 1 tbsp blossom honey or any other mild honey • 5 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp roughly chopped dill

For the sauce • 250g crème fraîche • 2 tbsp roughly chopped dill • 1 tbsp olive oil 1 Put the cedar plank in cold water, weighing it down with several cans or jars to keep it submerged. Soak for at least 4 hours (see Make Ahead). 2 Heat/light the barbecue for direct medium heat (coals evenly distributed over the base of the barbecue). 3 For the rub, heat the oven to its lowest setting. Spread the lemon zest on a baking tray and bake on the lowest oven shelf for 10 minutes or until dried out (check regularly to make sure it doesn’t burn), then set aside to cool. Grind the fennel seeds in a pestle and mortar with the salt and peppercorns. Add the dried lemon zest and sugar, then grind again until fine. Mix in the ginger and garlic granules (see Make Ahead). 4 Sprinkle the spice rub over the salmon, pressing down so it sticks. Cover and leave in the fridge to marinate for 15 minutes. 5 For the fennel salad, mix together all the ingredients in a bowl. Season with salt and black pepper, then chill until ready to serve (see Make Ahead). 6 For the sauce, mix all the ingredients together in a small bowl, then cover and chill until ready to serve (see Make Ahead). 7 Remove the cedar plank from the water and put it on the grill. Close the lid if you have one and let it heat for 5 minutes. Turn the plank over and brush it with the olive oil. Put the salmon on top, skin-side down. Close the lid again and cook for 12-15 minutes until the fish flakes easily. 8 Serve the fillets with the sauce and salad alongside, with dill sprinkled on top to garnish. Per serving 787kcals, 68.7g fat (24g saturated), 33.8g protein, 6.6g carbs (6.3g sugars), 0.9g salt, 3.7g fibre

The caraway rub transforms these pork chops

Pork chops with caraway seed rub and pull-apart bread rolls Serves 4 Hands-on time 35 min, plus 15 minutes resting You’ll also need Pestle and mortar (or use the end of a rolling pin to grind in a bowl) Prepare the filling for the bread rolls a few hours ahead. Store covered in the fridge and assemble just before grilling. Cook under a hot grill, DON’T WANT turning halfway through, TO BBQ? or heat a ridged griddle pan and cook on the hob – use a lid if you have one to re-create a smoky environment. MAKE AHEAD

• 4 outdoor reared pork chops, about 250g each • 4 bread rolls • 8 tbsp olive oil • 125g ball mozzarella • 4 tbsp parsley, leaves picked, roughly chopped • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 2 tbsp sunflower oil → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 31

to rest for 3-5 minutes. 5 Add the bread rolls for the last 5-10 minutes of cooking the chops, putting them directly on the grill plate. Cook just until crisp and the cheese is melting, then serve with the chops. Per serving 819kcals, 38g fat (11.4g saturated), 77.5g protein, 40.3g carbs (2.8g sugars), 2.7g salt, 2.8g fibre Find more recipe ideas for caraway seeds in Use It Up.

Try the chops with Sxollie Cripps Pink apple cider (4.5%, South Africa) Pork has an affinity with cider, and the tangy acidity, fresh apple streak and floral note in this variety goes well with the caraway seeds in the recipe too. Advertisement feature

For the caraway seed rub • 2 tsp sea salt • 2 tsp caraway seeds • 1 tsp black peppercorns • 1 tsp granulated sugar • ½ tsp paprika • ½ tsp garlic granules • ½ tsp dried marjoram 1 Heat/light the barbecue for direct medium heat (coals evenly distributed over the base of the barbecue). 2 For the rub, put the salt, caraway seeds, pepper and sugar in a mortar and grind to a fine powder. Add the paprika, garlic granules and marjoram, then grind again until fine. Pat the chops dry with kitchen paper if need be, then rub the spice mix all over the meat. Leave to marinate at room temperature for 15 minutes. 3 Make 6 criss-cross cuts in the bread rolls (but don’t cut all the way through). Drizzle 4 tbsp olive oil into the cuts, then roughly shred the mozzarella and mix with the parsley, crushed garlic and remaining olive oil in a small bowl. Season, then divide the mix between the cuts in the rolls. 4 Once marinated, brush the chops with sunflower oil, then put on the prepared barbecue. Grill with the lid closed, if you have one, for about 5 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Remove from the grill and set aside in a warm place

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Cajun chicken drumsticks with charred pineapple wedges Serves 4-6 Hands-on time 45 min, plus marinating You’ll also need Pestle and mortar (or use the end of a rolling pin to grind in a bowl). Useful to have Digital probe thermometer Marinate the chicken and pineapple up to 1 day ahead. Keep chilled in a sealed bag or container until ready to cook. Heat a grill and cook the DON’T WANT chicken on a lined grill TO BBQ? tray, turning regularly, until cooked through. Cook the pineapple under the grill or heat a ridged griddle pan and cook while the chicken is grilling. Swap the chicken for EASY SWAPS large chunks of tofu or halloumi – you may not need to add all the spice mix. If you don’t like chilli, leave it out. MAKE AHEAD

• 12 British free-range chicken drumsticks • 2 tsp coarse sea salt • 1 tsp black peppercorns • 6 tsp granulated or demerara sugar • 1 tsp garlic granules • 2 tsp sweet paprika • 1 tsp dried thyme • 2 tsp dried oregano • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper • 1 red chilli, deseeded and coarsely chopped

• 1 medium pineapple, peeled with a sharp knife, then cut in half and each half divided into 6 wedges • Olive oil for brushing • Handful coriander 1 Heat/light a barbecue for direct heat (coals arranged in a bank in the middle). 2 Pat the drumsticks dry with kitchen paper, then put in a large freezer bag or sealable container. Finely grind the salt and pepper and 1 tsp sugar in a pestle and mortar. Add the garlic granules, 1 tsp paprika, thyme, oregano and cayenne pepper, then grind again until fine. Add to the freezer bag/container, then seal and shake to coat the chicken in the spices. Leave to marinate at room temperature for 10 minutes (see Make Ahead). 3 Add the chilli to the pestle and mortar with the remaining 5 tsp sugar and 1 tsp paprika. Grind together to make a paste, then brush the mixture over the pineapple wedges to coat. Leave to marinate for 15 minutes (see Make Ahead). 4 Remove the drumsticks from the bag/container. Brush with the oil, then arrange over indirect heat (at the edge of the barbecue) for 20-30 minutes, turning regularly, until crisp and the juices run clear when the thickest part is pierced with a skewer (a probe thermometer should read 70-72°C). Remove the cooked drumsticks to a platter and cover loosely to keep warm. 5 Brush the pineapple with a little oil, then cook it over direct heat (in the middle of the grill) for 2-3 minutes each side until charred and sticky. Serve with the chicken. Roughly tear the coriander leaves and sprinkle over the drumsticks and pineapple to garnish. Per serving (for 6) 302kcals, 9.7g fat (2.4g saturated), 40.6g protein, 12.2g carbs (12.2g sugars), 1.5g salt, 1.8g fibre →

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Cajun chicken drumsticks with charred pineapple wedges

Feta parcels with grilled courgette and peaches

VEGGIE RECIPE

Feta parcels with grilled courgettes and peaches Serves 4 Hands-on time 45 min, plus 10 minutes marinating You’ll also need Pestle and mortar (or use the end of a rolling pin to grind in a bowl); wooden cocktail sticks Useful to have Mandoline slicer

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Assemble the cheese parcels up to 4 hours ahead. Cover and chill until ready to cook. The rub will keep in an airtight container for 3-4 days. Replace the feta with NEXT saganaki grilling TIME cheese. Use leftover citrus juice USE to marinate chicken IT UP thighs – just combine with seasoning and a little oil. MAKE AHEAD

Cook the parcels in a hot oven or under a medium grill, turning regularly, until the cheese is meltingly soft. DON’T WANT TO BBQ?

• 2 ripe peaches, halved and stoned • 2 x 200g packs feta, halved to make 4 rectangular pieces • 3 courgettes, sliced into 2-3mm thick ribbons • 5 tbsp olive oil For the rub • Grated zest 1 unwaxed lemon • Grated zest 2 oranges • 1 tbsp fennel seeds • 2 tsp coarse sea salt • 2 tsp granulated sugar • 2 tsp chilli flakes • 1 tbsp thyme leaves, picked • 1 tsp paprika (used smoked sweet paprika if you have it) • 1 tsp garlic granules

1 Heat/light the barbecue for direct medium heat (coals evenly distributed over the base of the barbecue). 2 For the rub, heat the oven to its lowest setting. Spread out the zests on a baking tray and bake on the lowest oven shelf for 10 minutes or until dried out (check regularly to make sure it doesn’t burn), then set aside to cool. 3 Mix the fennel seeds with the sea salt, sugar and chilli flakes in a pestle and mortar, then grind until fine. Add the thyme and dried zest, then grind again until fine. Mix with the paprika and garlic granules. 4 Put the rub on a large plate, then press each cut side of the peach in the rub to coat. Set aside for 10 minutes. 5 Next press the feta gently into the rub to coat on both sides. Let it rest for 10 minutes, then put in a bowl and sprinkle with 2 tsp more of the rub mixture, tossing to coat. Leave to rest for 5 more minutes. Pat the courgette strips dry with kitchen paper. Wrap each piece of cheese in 2-3 courgette strips, securing with cocktail sticks. 6 Brush each cheese parcel all over with oil, then do the same with the cut surface of the peaches. Grill the cheese parcels for 2-3 minutes on each side, then grill the peaches, cut-side down, for 3 minutes until lightly brown and a little soft. Set the cheese parcels and peaches aside to rest for 5 minutes. Mix the remaining courgette strips in the bowl with 1 tbsp oil. Grill the strips on both sides for 1 minute on each side until browned. 7 Arrange the parcels, peaches and courgettes on a platter, drizzle with the remaining oil, scatter over any remaining rub mixture and serve immediately. Per serving 454kcals, 35.3g fat (15.9g saturated), 19g protein, 13.1g carbs (12.6g sugars), 3.8g salt, 3.8g fibre

RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS: THE TAVERNE AGENCY

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June’s best

Crunchy pickles Warm sunny days turn the mind to eating outside and barbecues – and what better accompaniment for the pies and pasties of picnics and juicy burgers hot and smoky from the grill than Gill Meller’s sharp, crunchy homemade pickles

VEGAN RECIPE

Pickled cucumbers with dill and oak leaves Makes 10-12 whole pickles Hands-on time 15 min, plus soaking and 4-5 days fermenting You’ll also need 2 litre swing top (Kilner) jar, rubber seal removed Known for their thick (often knobbly) skin and firm flesh, ‘pickling’ cucumbers are best for this recipe. If you can’t get hold of them, opt for small firm Persian and Lebanese varieties. Some people don’t sterilise their jars but we think it’s good practice: see deliciousmagazine. co.uk/how-to-sterilise-jars. If you’re using oak leaves, give them a good wash in cold water before use. If you can’t find any, use blackcurrant leaves, vine leaves or fresh bay leaves. The pickles need an oxygenfree environment to ensure they don’t spoil. Tap the jar a few times on the countertop after adding the brine to dislodge any trapped air, and make sure the KNOWHOW

36 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

brine fully covers the content of the jar. See Jen’s Kitchen on p108 for more tips. Temperature affects how fast the pickles ferment. Check on them regularly after 2 days (especially if the weather is warm) and transfer to the fridge when you’re happy with the flavour. The cold slows the fermentation process. As the pickles ferment, gasses will bubble to the surface. Be sure to remove the seal from the pickling jar so they can escape – you don’t want exploding jars. • 10-12 small, firm, very fresh cucumbers (see Know-how) • Iced water for washing/soaking • 1 small red onion, thinly sliced • Bunch dill (with flowering tops if possible) • 6-8 oak leaves (if you can’t find them, see Know-how) • 2 garlic cloves, bashed, skin on • 1 tbsp black mustard seeds • 40g salt 1 Cut the flowering tops from the cucumbers if they have them,

then give them a gentle wash in iced water. Leave them to sit in the water for 15-20 minutes. 2 Drain the cucumbers and pack as many as you can into a clean 2-litre Kilner jar (see Know-how), along with the onion, dill, oak leaves, garlic and mustard seeds. 3 Put 1 litre water in a large jug and add the salt. Whisk well to dissolve and create a brine. Pour the brine into the jar to cover. 4 Fill a small clean plastic food bag with water and sit this on top of the cucumbers and other ingredients. This will keep everything submerged below the salty brine (see Know-how). 5 Close the lid. Leave the jar in a cool dark place for 4-5 days to ferment (see Know-how). Lift the lid and remove a cucumber. Have a taste; it should have a real tang and funk to its flavour. If you’re happy with the taste, pop the jar (with the seal back on) in the fridge. Eat within a year. Per pickle (for 12) 22kcals, 0.9g fat (no saturated), 1.4g protein, 1.7g carbs (1.5g sugars), 0.8g salt, 0.9g fibre

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If you like pickles and ferments, then you have to make these — they’re amazing! Try to find fresh little cucumbers that smell sweet and are firm to the touch, as these will give you pickles with the best flavour. I like to spike the salty brine with dill, mustard seeds, sliced red onions and a touch of garlic. And I find adding a few oak leaves to the jar helps the cucumbers retain that all-important crunch, thanks to the tannins in the leaves. These cucumbers are insane with grilled steak, shellfish, good cheese, fatty charcuterie, or anything smoked or straight out of the fire.

The island of Sicily

Markets, mountains & magical memories This rocky isle at the tip of Italy’s boot has bewitched chef Ben Tish over the years with its special charms. In his new book he explores Sicily through its food, with dishes that use ingredients produced by the rich soil, plentiful sun and sparkling seas, and falls in love with the Mediterranean way of life PHOTOGRAPHS: KRIS KIRKHAM

38 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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icily is a frustratingly complex contradiction in terms. At once both a frugal, rugged land with a simple, robust cuisine, yet also full of ornate glamour and shameless extravagance. The island sits at the true heart of the Mediterranean, between east and west, Europe and North Africa. It has experienced many years under various occupations including the Romans, Normans, Spaniards, French and Visigoth Greeks. Each occupier has left a little bit of their culture. However, for me it’s the footprint of the Moors and the Berbers that’s left the strongest mark. Sicilian cooking was, and still is, strongly influenced by the Arabs, who added almonds, aniseed, apricots, artichokes, cinnamon, oranges, pistachio, pomegranates, saffron, sesame, spinach, watermelon and rice to the local larder. Even cooking techniques now commonplace, such as deep-frying in oil and controlled cooking over fire, were introduced by Arab chefs, with the locals taking to these new skills. I never tire of exploring the food markets of Sicily. They assault the senses with noise, colour, hustle, bustle, smoke and produce so strikingly vibrant, it knocks me back. Exotic piles of spices, soot-faced stall holders grilling vegetables and meat over billowing charcoal, vendors shouting and gesticulating and a mix of wide-eyed tourists rubbing shoulders with locals young and old, haggling, bantering, laughing and eating. Squashes several feet long, huge alien-like glistening tomatoes… The many varieties of citrus – blood oranges, meyer lemons, green satsumas, gigantic cedro lemons, highly scented bergamots… Octopus, swordfish and fresh prawns sold by the handful… Rough and ready but all the more charming for it. The food markets of Sicily are the beating heart of the island. My recipes explore the island through its food, inspired by Sicily’s bountiful produce, cooking styles and gloriously sun-soaked Mediterranean way of life. BEN TISH MAIN PICTURE The hill town of Castiglione di Sicilia THIS PAGE, FROM TOP Fearsomely hot charcoal grills are part of the theatre of Sicily’s street food stalls; you’ll find pomegranates piled high in the markets; bread studded with sweet black grapes is another market treat (see p42)

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ALL ABOUT BEN After cutting his teeth working under Jason Atherton, delicious. regular Ben Tish made his name as a chef and partner in the Salt Yard Group of small-plates Mediterranean restaurants in London. He’s now the culinary director of The Stafford hotel in St James’s. In 2019, he and the hotel opened Norma in Fitzrovia, showcasing Ben’s love of the kind of SicilianMoorish food you’ll find in Sicilia, his latest cookbook.

Sicilian lemons have a thick, oil-rich skin that’s perfect for making limoncello

40 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Cauliflower, parmesan and anchovy fritters Serves 4 as a starter Hands-on time 25 min You’ll also need Deep-sided, heavy based pan; spider/slotted spoon Useful to have Deep-fat fryer; probe thermometer You can cook the cauliflower to the end of step 1 a few hours in advance. Store in the fridge, covered with damp kitchen paper, in an airtight container until ready to fry. MAKE AHEAD

• ½ large leafy cauliflower, cut into florets, leaves thinly sliced • 1.5-2 litres groundnut oil for frying For the batter • 50g plain flour • 50g cornflour • 30g parmesan, finely grated • 2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped • Grated zest ½ unwaxed lemon • ½ tsp cayenne pepper • 1 large free-range egg • 5 tbsp cold sparkling water • Alioli (or garlic mayonnaise) and lemon to serve 1 Cook the cauliflower florets and leaves in boiling salted water for 5 minutes or until tender. Drain, refresh under cold water, then drain again (see Make Ahead). 2 Mix the flours in a bowl with the parmesan, anchovies, lemon zest and cayenne pepper. Make a well in the centre and add the egg. Mix with a wooden spoon, gradually adding the fizzy water, until you have a thick batter. Season with salt and pepper. Add the florets and leaves and stir to coat. 3 Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer or deep pan to 180°C (a cube of bread dropped in will brown in about 30 seconds). Drop heaped tablespoons of the battered cauliflower into the hot oil and fry for 2 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Lift out with a spider or slotted spoon to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain. Sprinkle liberally with sea salt, add a squeeze of lemon and serve with alioli. Per serving 300kcals, 15.9g fat (4.3g saturated), 10.4g protein, 27.1g carbs (4.3g sugars), 0.4g salt, 3.2g fibre →

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“Cauliflower fritters are a Palermo street food classic, hot and salty from the friggitore — the fryer — and finished with a squeeze of lemon juice. Wonderful. My version incorporates parmesan and anchovies into the batter — two flavours that work well with cauliflower. Perfect with a glass of dry marsala for an aperitivo.”

“This recipe is similar to the Tuscan focaccia. It’s popular in the wine-growing areas of Sicily where, after the harvest, there are often gluts of overripe or damaged grapes. It can be eaten as a dessert, but I enjoy it with salty cheese such as a pecorino. A glass of nero d’avola would complete the picture perfectly.”

VEGGIE RECIPE

Sicilian-style flattened bread with grapes Serves 12 Hands-on time 30 min, plus rising, proving and cooling Oven time 25-30 min You’ll also need Clean, damp tea towel; 38cm x 25cm x 2.5cm deep baking tray, lightly oiled The bread is best eaten MAKE AHEAD on the day it’s made but can be stored in an airtight container for 1-2 days. Refresh in a low oven for 5 minutes. • 7g sachet dried yeast • 4 tbsp dry red wine • 1 tbsp runny honey • About 175ml lukewarm water • 400g ‘00’ pasta flour, or 200g plain flour and 200g strong white bread flour mixed together, plus extra to dust • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (preferably Sicilian), plus extra for oiling • ½ tsp fine sea salt • 500g black seedless grapes (I use sable) • 100g caster sugar • Sprinkle of icing sugar to finish (optional) 1 Stir the yeast, wine, honey and warm water in a large bowl until the yeast has dissolved. Set aside until the mixture is 42 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

bubbly (about 10 minutes.) 2 Stir in 150g of the flour (the mixture will be lumpy). Cover the bowl with a clean damp tea towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 40-50 minutes or until doubled in size. 3 Add the olive oil, 200g of the remaining flour and the salt, then stir until a sticky dough forms. Knead on a well floured work surface for 8-10 minutes, gradually adding the remaining flour if necessary to prevent the dough from sticking, until the dough is smooth and elastic but still soft. Transfer to a large oiled bowl and turn to coat in the oil. Cover the bowl with the damp tea towel and leave to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until doubled in size. 4 Turn out the dough onto the work surface and knock back (knead several times to release air). Cut the dough in half. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out one piece (keeping the remaining piece covered) into a rough 30cm x 25cm rectangle. Lift the dough rectangle into the baking tray. Gently stretch the dough to cover as much of the base of the tin as possible (the dough may not fit exactly). Scatter half the grapes over the dough, then sprinkle the grapes with half the caster sugar. 5 Roll out the remaining dough in the same manner and place it on top of the sugared grapes, gently stretching the dough to cover them. Scatter the remaining grapes and caster sugar on top, then gently press into the dough. Cover the tin with a damp clean tea towel or place in a reusable proving bag, then leave the dough to prove (rise in its

shaped form) in a warm place for 1 hour or until doubled in size. 6 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ gas 6. Bake the bread for 25-30 minutes or until browned and firm in the middle. Loosen the sides and base with a spatula and slide onto a wire rack to cool. Serve at room temperature, sprinkled with icing sugar if you like. Per serving 226kcals, 4.2g fat (0.7g saturated), 4.2g protein, 41.1g carbs (15.8g sugars), 0.2g salt, 1.8g fibre VEGGIE RECIPE

Chilled fennel and broad bean soup Serves 4 Hands-on time 10 min, plus chilling Simmering time 5-10 min You’ll also need Blender, stick blender or food processor; pestle and mortar (or use the end of a rolling pin in a small bowl) Make to the end of step 2 up to 2 days ahead. Keep covered in the fridge until ready to serve, then continue the recipe from step 3. MAKE AHEAD

• Glug extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra • 1 very fresh fennel bulb (250-300g – keep the fronds if still attached), finely sliced • 30g blanched almonds • 1 litre vegetable stock (homemade is best; or use a light chicken stock if the soup doesn’t have to be veggie) • 2 tbsp crème fraîche • Squeeze lemon juice • 1 tsp fennel seeds • 100g young broad beans, podded and skinned

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• Dill to serve (if you have no fennel fronds) 1 Heat a medium saucepan over a medium heat and add a glug of olive oil. Add the sliced fennel and cook briskly, without colouring, until softened. Add the almonds and stock and bring to the boil, then simmer for 5-10 minutes until the fennel is fully cooked through and the almonds have softened. Season and add the crème fraîche. Transfer to a blender or food processor and whizz until smooth. 2 Season the soup to taste and add some lemon juice. Pour into a container and leave to cool, then chill (see Make Ahead). 3 When you’re ready to serve, heat a little oil in a small pan over a medium heat and lightly fry the fennel seeds until fragrant. Transfer to a pestle and mortar and crush lightly. Mix the fennel seeds with the broad beans and fennel fronds or dill. 4 Pour the soup into chilled bowls, spoon over some bean and fennel seed mix, then serve. Ideal on a sweltering hot day. Per serving 130kcals, 8.7g fat (2.6g saturated), 4.9g protein, 5.8g carbs (2g sugars), 0.1g salt, 4g fibre →

“My old friend and fellow chef Antonio moved to the island of Pantellaria, off Sicily’s southwest coast, a few years ago and I try to visit him during the summer months. He makes a soup similar to this one to help combat the sweltering August heat. It’s delicious and perfect for enjoying in the midday shade.”

DAY TRIP: MOUNT ETNA I’d been told of a restaurant that was reportedly serving the best pasta in Sicily. Terra Mia is located on the slopes of Mount Etna in Solicchiata. It’s a beautiful old farmhouse set back in shaded woodlands, surrounded by vineyards. The owners either make everything themselves or buy produce locally. The menu was focaccia and sheep’s milk ricotta with local blossom honey and pistachios; a plate of fennel salami from the owners’ own pigs; and a spaghetti with the freshest almonds, wild fennel fronds and dried-salted grapes left from a harvest. A no-choice dessert produced a bowl of mulberries that looked like they might burst in front of us. A memorable afternoon spent on Mount Etna.

Ricotta, parmesan and lemon ravioli with wild garlic Serves 6 as a starter Hands-on time 40 min (plus making the pasta dough) You’ll also need Piping bag; 10cm plain round cutter. The filling will keep, covered, in the fridge for 1-2 days. During spring and early KNOWsummer, find wild garlic HOW at farmers’ markets and greengrocers or forage for it yourself. Search ‘wild garlic’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk for tips. Dry any pasta off-cuts DON’T WASTE on a bed of fine semolina IT for 1-2 hours, then freeze in bags. Add to soups and stews for the last few minutes’ cooking. Beat leftover egg whites with a pinch of salt and freeze for up to 3 months. MAKE AHEAD

Pasta dough Makes About 600g Takes 20 min, plus resting You’ll only need half the pasta dough for the ravioli recipe (see right). The dough will keep in the fridge in an airtight container for 1 day – or wrap and freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost overnight at room temperature before rolling and shaping. You can roll out the KNOWpasta using just a rolling HOW pin, but a pasta machine will be quicker and easier (roll to the second thinnest setting). If making by hand, you may want to work with smaller pieces of dough. Roll it as thin as you can. Lightly whisk and freeze DON’T WASTE any leftover egg to use IT later in an omelette. MAKE AHEAD

• 340g ‘00’ pasta flour • 160g semolina flour 44 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• Large pinch of salt • 3 large free-range eggs, plus 2-3 yolks, at room temperature 1 Mix the flours and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the middle. Lightly beat the whole eggs and 2 yolks, then pour two thirds of the beaten egg mixture into the well in the flour. 2 Using your fingertips in a circular motion, gradually stir the flour into the eggs until you have a dough that comes together into a ball. If the mix doesn’t come together, add the rest of the egg mix, then the third yolk if need be. Knead the dough for 10 minutes or until it’s smooth and springs back when pressed. Divide the dough into 2 equal parts. Chill or freeze until needed (see Know-how). Per 100g 289kcals, 5.4g fat (1.4g saturated), 12.6g protein, 46.6g carbs (0.3g sugars), 0.4g salt, 2g fibre

• 70g parmesan, grated, plus extra to serve • 100g ricotta, drained • Nutmeg for grating • Finely grated zest 1 unwaxed lemon, plus a squeeze of juice • 300g pasta dough (see left) • 6 medium free-range egg yolks (see Don’t Waste It) • Fine semolina for dusting • 100g unsalted butter • Large handful wild garlic leaves (or large handful baby spinach and 1 chopped garlic clove) 1 For the filling, beat 50g of the parmesan with the ricotta, then season with salt and pepper, grated nutmeg and half the lemon zest. Mix well, then spoon into a piping bag and leave in the fridge while you roll out your dough. 2 Divide the pasta dough in half and roll out each piece into a 20cm wide sheet, taking the pasta to about 1mm thickness (see Pasta Dough Know-how). 3 Lay the pasta sheets on a clean surface. Starting 2.5cm

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away from the long edge of one pasta sheet, carefully pipe a nest of the ricotta mixture about 5cm in diameter onto the pasta. 4 Carefully slide an egg yolk into the middle of the ricotta nest – it should fit snugly. Pipe your next nest of ricotta on the pasta sheet 5cm away from your first one, then gently ease in another yolk. Repeat 4 more times. 5 Brush the exposed pasta with water, then carefully lay the other sheet of pasta over the top. 6 Starting at one end, gently press the pasta around the outside of the filling, pushing out the air and sealing the edges. Use the cutter to cut out a raviolo with the egg right in the middle. 7 Check the ravioli are well sealed – use more water if needed. As they’re made, place the ravioli on a large tray dusted with the fine semolina, making sure they don’t touch each other. 8 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, then reduce the heat to a rolling simmer. Carefully lower in the ravioli, 3 at a time, and cook for 4 minutes or until they float to the surface. 9 While cooking the ravioli, melt the butter in a large high-sided saucepan over a medium heat. As soon as it starts to foam, add the remaining lemon zest and a squeeze of juice. Season well. 10 Remove the pasta with a slotted spoon and place in the butter sauce, adding a splash of the pasta water and the rest of the parmesan. Cook the remaining ravioli, then add to the sauce. 11 With the heat still low, add the wild garlic leaves (or spinach and garlic) to the boiling water to wilt. Spoon the ravioli onto a serving dish, drain and spoon over the wilted wild garlic (or spinach), then pour over the remaining sauce and serve with extra parmesan. Per serving 415kcals, 27.5g fat (14.5g saturated), 15.6g protein, 25.7g carbs (0.7g sugars), 0.5g salt, 1.1g fibre →

“You’ll find ricotta ravioli in many Sicilian restaurants, often served with a lemon or tomato sauce. My version includes an egg yolk popped into the centre of the ravioli that stays soft through the cooking, creating a lovely eggy sauce. The naturally bland ricotta is given a flavour boost by the addition of lemon, parmesan and nutmeg.”

• Pangrattato (optional): fry 20g coarse breadcrumbs in a little oil with chilli flakes and garlic

Recipes from Sicilia by Ben Tish (Bloomsbury, priced £26). Copyright Ben Tish 2021. Photographs © Kris Kirkham

Stuffed aubergines with pork, pine nuts, rice and ricotta

NEXT MONTH Our guide to a new style of summer grilling

Serves 4 Hands-on time 30 min Oven time 40 min

You can prep the aubergines up to a day ahead without the cheeses. Store, covered, on a baking sheet in the fridge. Add the cheeses just before baking.

“These delicious ragù-stuffed aubergine boats are ideal served straight from the oven, but they’re also great served cold. In the Sicilian summer months you’ll see the locals eating this type of thing, wrapped in foil and served from a food cooler or picnic hamper on the beach. It’s the ultimate picnic dish, and similar in some ways to the British scotch egg or pork pie. Just prepare the recipe as below, cool, then transfer to the fridge until ready to eat.”

• 2 medium aubergines, about 270g each • Olive oil for drizzling and frying • 100g pork mince • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped • 2 anchovy fillets, chopped • 200ml red wine • 200g tinned chopped tomatoes • 250g basmati rice, cooked and cooled (dry weight 100g) • Handful flatleaf parsley, finely chopped, plus extra to serve • 50g ricotta • 1-2 tbsp parmesan, grated • Grated zest ½ unwaxed lemon • 2 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted in a dry pan

46 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

MAKE AHEAD

1 Heat the oven to 170°C fan/ gas 5. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways, keeping the stalk on. Scoop out some of the flesh from each half with a spoon, leaving about a 1cm layer of flesh. Chop the scooped-out flesh into 1cm dice. 2 Lay the aubergine halves on an oven tray cut-side up. Season and drizzle with oil. Roast for 20 minutes or until just cooked through and lightly browned. Remove from the oven to cool. 3 Heat a medium flameproof casserole over a medium heat and add a glug of olive oil. When hot, add the pork mince and season. Cook for a few minutes, stirring, to brown all over. Remove the mince from the pan using a slotted spoon and reserve. In the oil left in the pan, fry the diced aubergine flesh with the garlic, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the anchovies. 4 Return the cooked mince to the pan. Add the wine and boil until it has all but evaporated. Add the tomatoes, bring back to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes or so until thickened and rich. Stir in the cooked rice and parsley, season well, then cook for 2 minutes. Add a little water if the mixture is too thick. Remove from the heat and cool. 5 Divide the mince-rice mix among the 4 aubergine halves (see Make Ahead). Crumble over the ricotta and sprinkle on the parmesan. Bake for 20 minutes or until piping hot and bubbling and the cheese has melted. Finish with the lemon zest, pine nuts, extra parsley and pangrattato (optional) to serve. Per serving 346kcals, 16.5g fat (3.8g saturated), 13.1g protein, 24.6g carbs (5g sugars), 0.4g salt, 4.2g fibre

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Limoncello semifreddo with cherries Serves 4-6 Hands-on time 20 min, plus at least 7-8 hours freezing You’ll also need 3 bowls; electric hand mixer or stand mixer with a whisk attachment; shallow 2.5 litre freezer-safe serving dish; compostable baking paper Useful to have Cherry pitter The semifreddo will keep for 1-2 weeks in a tub in the freezer. The cherries can be prepared (step 3) several hours in advance. The longer they sit, the more syrupy they’ll get. Use leftover DON’T WASTE cherries in IT cocktails, stir into brownie mix before baking or serve as part of a cheese board. NB Contains raw egg MAKE AHEAD

• Grated zest 1 unwaxed lemon, plus 2½ tbsp juice • 4 tbsp icing sugar 1 Separate the eggs into 2 large bowls. Add the caster sugar to the yolks and beat for a few minutes with an electric mixer until pale and thick. Using clean beaters, whisk the egg whites in the other bowl to stiff but not dry peaks (when you lift the beaters out the peaks’ tips won’t fall over). In another bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks (the tips flop over). Using a large metal spoon, fold the cream

gently into the yolks (using a figure-of-eight motion), then fold in 150ml limoncello. Carefully fold in the egg whites. 2 Spoon into the serving dish. Cover with compostable baking paper touching the surface, then freeze for at least 7-8 hours. 3 At least 30 minutes before serving (see Make Ahead), put the cherries in a bowl. Add the lemon zest and juice, the icing sugar and the 4 tbsp limoncello. Gently stir, then cover and chill. 4 To serve, scoop the semifreddo into glasses or bowls and spoon over some cherries. Per serving (for 6) 699kcals, 49g fat (29g saturated), 8g protein, 44g carbs (43.9g sugars), 0.2g salt, 1g fibre

• 4 large free-range eggs • 75g caster sugar • 500ml double cream • 150ml limoncello, plus 4 tbsp extra • 500g ripe cherries, cut in half and stones removed

“Semifreddos are popular in the south of Italy; they’re much lighter and more delicate than ice creams, and don’t need churning. Here, the marinated cherries act as a juicy foil to the limoncello.”

CHANGE THE

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"30 years ago we started making meat from plants in our home kitchen. People really did think we were crazy! We were on a mission to change the world from our kitchen table. And now, we’d love for you to join us, from your own kitchen table. We’ll continue to craft only the best plant-based food that’s quick and easy to prepare and that everyone in the family will enjoy - so you can continue to make plant-based versions of your favourites, like spag’ bol, nuggets, or burgers."

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FOR FAMILIES, BY OURS.

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Get ready for

la fiesta!

Tortillas are great party food, whether crispy and filled as a taco, wrapped around beans and rice as a burrito or baked as enchilladas… Serve up your favourite, plus moreish nachos, zingy cheesecake and one of our colourful margaritas

Enchiladas with tomatillo salsa deliciousmagazine.co.uk 49

The best-ever sharing starter Party nachos with chorizo and spicy cheese sauce Serves 6 Hands-on time 45 min Oven time 20-25 min You’ll also need Baking tray lined with compostable baking paper Prepare the chorizo and cheese sauce (based on the classic Mexican chile con queso) up to 1 day ahead and chill in separate containers. Replace the chorizo EASY SWAPS with mushrooms or simply leave it out. MAKE AHEAD

• 60ml extra-virgin olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 1 red pepper, finely chopped • 1 yellow pepper, finely chopped • 1 green pepper, finely chopped • 1 tsp salt • 150g chorizo sausage, finely chopped • 90g tomato purée • 2 tsp smoked paprika • 400g tin finely chopped tomatoes (or regular chopped tomatoes, whizzed) • 200g tortilla chips

1 To make the chorizo mixture, heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and all the peppers with the salt. Cook, stirring, for 8-10 minutes until the vegetables have softened. Add the chorizo and cook, stirring, for 8-10 minutes until it releases its fat. Add the tomato purée and paprika, stir for 2 minutes, then add the tomatoes and cook, simmering, for 15 minutes until thickened and reduced. Season to taste. 2 For the cheese sauce, put the butter in a saucepan over a low-medium heat and stir until melted. Add the flour, garlic powder, onion granules and cayenne and cook, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes. Add the milk in 2 batches, whisking to make sure there are no lumps. Whisk in the soured cream. Turn up the heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes or until slightly thickened. Remove from the heat, stir in half the cheese and season. 3 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ gas 6. Scatter the tortilla chips over the prepared baking tray, then spoon over the chorizo mixture, followed by the cheese sauce. Scatter over the remaining 50g cheddar and bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden and bubbling. Serve immediately. Per serving 594kcals, 41g fat (15.2g saturated), 18.3g protein, 34.6g carbs (11.8g sugars), 2.7g salt, 6.3g fibre

RECIPES: JESS MEYER AND PHOEBE WOOD. PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT AND JEREMY SIMONS. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER AND KIRSTEN JENKINS. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE AND EMMALY STEWART

For the spicy cheese sauce • 25g unsalted butter • 25g plain flour • 1 tsp garlic powder • 1 tsp onion granules • Pinch cayenne pepper (add more if you like it spicy) • 200ml whole milk • 125g soured cream • 100g smoked (or regular) cheddar, coarsely grated

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Mix & match mains to share Sticky beef tacos with creamy avocado dressing and green pico de gallo Makes 10 tacos Hands-on time 25 min You’ll also need Food processor The steak can be marinated up to 12 hours ahead. Chill, but bring to room temperature 30 minutes before cooking. The pico de gallo can be made up to 1 day ahead, then chilled in a sealed container until ready to serve. Pico de gallo is a fresh KNOWsalsa from Mexico – this HOW version is green thanks to green tomatoes. Find them at farmer’s markets in summer, at some greengrocers and online. You could use firm red or heirloom varieties instead. MAKE AHEAD

• 3 tbsp tomato ketchup • 2 tbsp brown sugar • 1½ tsp smoked paprika • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce • 400g sirloin beef steak, thinly sliced • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 8 hard shell tacos, warmed • ½ iceberg lettuce, shredded • 100g mature cheddar, grated For the creamy avocado sauce • 1 ripe avocado, flesh removed • 100g soured cream • Juice ½ lime • Small handful coriander leaves • 1 spring onion, finely chopped For the pico de gallo • 2 large green tomatoes, seeds removed, finely chopped (see Know-how) • 2 spring onions, finely chopped • 1-2 fresh jalapeños, seeds removed, finely chopped • Large handful coriander leaves, finely chopped • Juice 2 limes • 30ml extra-virgin olive oil

1 Mix the ketchup, sugar, paprika and Worcestershire sauce in a bowl. Add the steak, tossing to coat, then set aside to marinate. 2 Put the ingredients for the avocado sauce in a food processor and whizz until smooth, or mash the avocado by hand and mix in the other ingredients. Season to taste. 3 Combine all the pico de gallo ingredients in a bowl and season. 4 Heat the 2 tbsp olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Season the marinated steak and, in 2 batches, cook for 2-3 minutes, tossing, until just cooked. Set aside to rest for 2-3 minutes. 5 Spread the avocado mixture in the taco shells. Add the lettuce and pico de gallo, then top with the steak and cheese and serve. Per serving 278kcals, 19.4g fat (6.7g saturated), 13.8g protein, 11.5g carbs (5.8g sugars), 1.3g fibre

Chicken and black bean burritos with mojo verde Serves 4 Hands-on time 45 min You’ll also need Blender or small food processor Useful to have Mandoline

EASY SWAPS

KNOWHOW

Replace the chicken with pork tenderloin or a second tin of beans. Mojo verde is a green sauce flavoured with garlic and cumin.

• 500g skinless, boneless free-range chicken thigh fillets, thinly sliced • 2 tbsp tomato purée • 1 tsp ground coriander • 1 tsp ground cumin • 1 tsp smoked paprika • ½ tsp mild chilli powder • 2-3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 1 onion, thinly sliced • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced →

Sticky, spicy, zingy beef tacos

The burrito of your dreams

• 400g tin black beans, rinsed and drained • 450g cooked basmati rice (about 200g dry weight) • 2 ripe avocados, flesh removed • Juice 1 lime, plus extra lime wedges to serve • ¼ white cabbage (about 200g), finely shredded – we used a mandoline • 4 large wheat tortillas, warmed • 130g good quality tomato salsa • Coriander leaves to serve For the mojo verde • 1 small bunch coriander • ½ small bunch oregano, leaves picked • 4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 1 tsp ground cumin • Juice 1 lemon • 50ml extra-virgin olive oil 1 Whizz the mojo verde ingredients in a blender/food processor or chop finely and mix by hand. Season with salt. 2 Put the chicken, tomato purée and spices in a bowl and stir to coat. Set aside to marinate for 20 minutes, then season with salt. 3 Heat the oil in a large non-stick pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until golden. Add the chicken and increase the heat to mediumhigh. Cook for 12-15 minutes, turning, until lightly caramelised and cooked through. Add the beans and rice, stirring to coat, and warm through. Season well. 4 Coarsely mash the avocados with half the lime juice and a pinch of salt. Toss the cabbage with the remaining lime juice. 5 Divide the avocado among the tortillas. Top with the chicken and rice mixture, then add the salsa, cabbage, mojo verde and coriander leaves. Serve with lime wedges alongside. Per serving 849kcals, 34.8g fat (7.8g saturated), 43.8g protein, 82.6g carbs (9.9g sugars), 1.7g salt, 15.2g fibre 52 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced, soaked in cold water • 1 red and 1 green chilli, thinly sliced • 100g queso fresco cheese, crumbled, (see Know-how), soured cream and lime wedges

Enchiladas with tomatillo salsa Serves 4-6 Hands-on time 30 min Oven time 50-60 min You’ll also need Food processor or blender; 20cm x 30cm baking dish The salsa and chicken can be made 1-2 days ahead. Cook the chicken, then shred and store in a sealed container in the fridge. Use pork shoulder steaks NEXT instead of chicken thighs. TIME They may need an extra 15-30 minutes of cooking. Queso fresco is a fresh KNOWcheese widely used in HOW Mexican cuisine. You can use good quality feta – soak it in cold water for 30 minutes to remove some of the saltiness. Based on the Mexican dish enchiladas verdes, our recipe includes tomatillo, a member of the nightshade family that resembles small green tomatoes. Fresh tomatillos will need cooking before you can use them in this recipe – we used tinned cooked tomatillo, available at souschef. co.uk or mexgrocer.co.uk. MAKE AHEAD

• 6 skinless, boneless free-range chicken thighs (see Next Time) • 400g tin pinto beans (or use black beans if you prefer) • 200g mature cheddar, grated • 6 large tortilla wraps To serve • Small bunch coriander, leaves picked

For the tomatillo salsa • 790g tin cooked tomatillos (see Know-how) • 50g coriander, leaves and stalks roughly chopped • ½ white onion, roughly chopped • 1-2 fresh jalapeño chilli, halved, seeds removed • 2 large garlic cloves, peeled • Grated zest and juice 2 limes 1 Heat the oven to 160ºC fan/ gas 4. Put all the salsa ingredients in a food processor or blender with a large pinch of salt and whizz until finely chopped. Put the chicken thighs in the roasting dish and toss with 150ml of the salsa. Cover tightly with foil, then cook in the oven for 30 minutes until cooked through. Shred the chicken and put in a large bowl with the pinto beans, 150g of the cheddar and 2-3 tbsp of the salsa. Mix together. 2 Turn up the oven to fan 180ºC/ gas 6. Pour half the remaining salsa into the baking dish. Dip a tortilla into the salsa, coating both sides. Divide the chicken mixture into 6 portions, then arrange one portion along the middle of a wrap. Roll up and put in the baking dish. Repeat with the remaining tortillas and filling. Drizzle the remaining salsa over the enchiladas, sprinkle with the remaining cheddar, then bake in the oven for 20-30 minutes until bubbling and golden. 3 Serve immediately, topped with the coriander, onion, chillies and queso fresco with soured cream and lime wedges. Per serving (for 6) 569kcals, 22.2g fat (11.8g saturated), 38.2g protein, 50.1g carbs (8.7g sugars), 2.6g salt, 7.6g fibre

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Make-ahead pud Margarita cheesecake with tequila strawberries Serves 10 Hands-on time 20 min, plus 4-6 hours setting/marinating You’ll also need Food processor; electric mixer; 20cm loosebottomed cake tin Keep the cheesecake, covered, in the fridge for up to 2 days. Make the tequila strawberries up to 1 day ahead and keep chilled in an airtight container. Remove from the fridge 1 hour before serving. MAKE AHEAD

• 140g pretzel thins (we like Olly’s Pretzels Salted Original) • 2 tsp caster sugar • 90g unsalted butter, melted • 360g cream cheese (we used Philadelphia) • 150g soured cream • 100g icing sugar, sifted • Finely grated zest 1 lime • Finely grated zest ½ orange • 150ml double cream For the margarita jelly layer • 100g caster sugar • Juice 6 limes, strained • Juice 1 orange, strained • 4 gelatine leaves, soaked in cold water for 10 minutes • 2 tbsp tequila • 1 tbsp Grand Marnier, Cointreau or other triple sec • 100ml lime soda (we used Fever Tree Mexican lime soda) For the tequila strawberries • 300g strawberries, sliced • 100g icing sugar, sifted • 1-2 tbsp tequila • 1 tbsp Grand Marnier, Cointreau or other triple sec • Grated zest 1 lime • Grated zest ½ orange 1 Put the pretzel thins and caster sugar in a food processor and whizz to fine crumbs, then pour in the melted butter and

whizz again until the mixture holds its shape. Or put the pretzel thins in a bag and bash with a rolling pin, then mix in the butter. Press the mixture into the cake tin, then set aside in the fridge while you make the filling. 2 In a large mixing bowl, beat together the cream cheese, soured cream, icing sugar and zests until smooth. In another bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks, then gently fold it into the cream cheese mixture until combined. Pour the cheesecake filling on top of the biscuit base and level the top. Set aside in the fridge for 2 hours until firm. 3 For the margarita layer, gently heat the sugar, lime and orange juice in a small pan, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Squeeze the soaked gelatine leaves to remove excess water, then

stir into the mixture until fully dissolved. Stir in the tequila, liqueur and lime soda, then cool. Pour the cooled mixture over the set cheesecake, then cover and return to the fridge for at least 2 hours or overnight until fully set. 4 Combine the tequila strawberry ingredients in a bowl, then cover and set aside in the fridge until ready to serve. As the strawberries sit, they’ll create their own syrup (see Make Ahead). Slice the cheesecake and serve with the strawberries and a drizzle of their syrup. Per serving 466kcals, 26.8g fat (16.9g saturated), 4.3g protein, 47.1g carbs (36.3g sugars), 0.9g salt, 1.2g fibre →

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Two to try

El Sueño Premium Tequila Gold, £21 for 70cl (38%), Sainsbury’s An affordable but smooth drink, good for mixing; also check out the new El Sueño Watermelon Tequila Liqueur, £18 for 70cl (25%) in Tesco stores. Vivir Añejo, £44.25 for 70cl (40%), thewhiskyexchange.com A two-star Great Taste Award winner, this is a cut above with a rich, smoky flavour. It’s aged for 18 months in oak, which gives it a caramel colour. Perfect for sipping.

Raspberry margarita Serves 1 Hands-on time 10 min, plus cooling time You’ll also need Cocktail shaker; cocktail or old fashioned/short tumblers. The raspberry syrup will keep in the fridge for up to 5 days. For a picnic-friendly SCALE sharing cocktail, combine IT UP the tequila, raspberry syrup and triple sec in a swingtop glass bottle with 1 tbsp cold water per serving. Pack the garnishes separately to add at your picnic – no shaking needed. Or skip the ceremony and serve the mix as is, over ice. MAKE AHEAD

• 1 cup crushed ice, plus (optional) extra to serve • 60ml good quality tequila • 45ml raspberry syrup (see below) • 30ml Grand Marnier, Cointreau or other triple sec • 3-4 fresh raspberries to serve

NEXT MONTH Le pique-nique: special food to eat outside

For the raspberry syrup (makes enough for 4 cocktails) • 150g raspberries (fresh or frozen)

• 100g granulated sugar • 50ml water • Juice 1 lime For the raspberry sugar rim • Dash raspberry syrup • 1 tbsp freeze-dried raspberry powder (from healthysupplies. co.uk or souschef.co.uk) • 2 tbsp caster sugar 1 For the raspberry syrup, heat the berries, sugar and water in a small pan over a medium heat, stirring regularly until the sugar dissolves and the fruit starts to break down. Bring to the boil, then strain into a small bowl. Stir in the lime juice and cool, then chill in the fridge until needed. 2 For the margarita, put the crushed ice in a cocktail shaker, then pour in the tequila, raspberry syrup and triple sec. Shake vigorously for 1 minute. 3 To serve, coat the rim of a glass with a little raspberry syrup. Combine the raspberry powder and sugar on a flat plate. Dip the moistened rim of the glass into the mix and tap to remove the excess. Fill the glass with fresh crushed ice (if you like), whole raspberries and a little syrup. Strain the margarita into the glass and serve. Per serving 263kcals, 0.1g fat (trace saturated), 0.5g protein, 14.6g carbs (14.6g sugars), trace salt, 0.7g fibre

Frozen mango margarita with jalapeño tequila Serves 1 Hands-on time 5 min, plus up to 1 week infusing You’ll also need Blender or food processor; cocktail or old fashioned/short tumblers; muslin cloth set over a fine mesh sieve. Infusing the tequila is an easy way to add a twist to your cocktails. Try infusing with chipotle (smokedried jalapeño), pineapple or NEXT TIME

grapefruit, or aromatic spices such as cinnamon or vanilla. • 60ml jalapeño-infused tequila (see below) or regular tequila and a pinch of chilli powder • 150g frozen mango chunks • 50ml fresh orange juice, plus extra to coat • 30ml Grand Marnier, Cointreau or other triple sec • Juice 1 lime, plus a little extra to coat the glass • Handful crushed ice • Fresh jalapeño, thinly sliced, to serve (optional) For the jalapeño-infused tequila (makes 350ml) • 1 fresh jalapeño chilli, sliced • 1 wide strip lime zest • 350ml good quality tequila For the chilli mango salt rim • 1 tsp chilli powder (we used smoked) • 1 tsp fine sea salt 1 To infuse the tequila, put the sliced jalapeño and lime zest in a clean 500ml jar. Pour over the tequila, put the lid on the jar and set aside at room temperature to infuse for at least 12 hours or up to 1 week, depending on how spicy you like it. Pour the infused tequila through a muslin lined sieve set over a clean jug. Discard the chilli and zest. 2 For the margarita, put all the ingredients except the fresh jalapeño in a blender and whizz to a smooth, slushy consistency. 3 To serve, coat the rim of a glass with a little lime juice. Combine the chilli powder and salt on a flat plate. Dip the moistened rim of the glass into the salt mix and tap to remove the excess. Scoop the frozen margarita into the prepared glass and top with sliced jalapeño, if you like. Per serving 259kcals, 0.2g fat (0.1g saturated), 0.6g protein, 12.8g carbs (12.8g sugars), 1.1g salt, 1.5g fibre

A spoonful of love For Jordans cereals, making great oats is just the start of it. That’s why the company is on a mission to ensure its oats are as healthy for nature as they are for you

ats have always been at the heart of Jordans cereals, but there’s another vital ingredient, and that’s care. From growing oats sustainably, to the oat clusters you enjoy at home, the folk at Jordans go above and beyond to ensure their cereals are a treat for your taste buds and for the planet. Fuelled by the belief that the world is better when it’s bursting with nature, Jordans has devoted itself to nature-friendly farming for the last 30 years. That’s why it founded the Jordans Farm Partnership (JFP) in 2016: a collaboration between Jordans, its farmers, The Wildlife Trusts, The Prince’s Countryside Fund and LEAF, to protect nature and support rural communities. Each of Jordans’ 31 British oat farmers work with The Wildlife Trusts and LEAF to produce oats in a sustainable way, dedicating at least 10% of their land to wildlife – and it’s paying dividends. Since launching, the

JFP has protected an area the size of Oxford (that’s around 45 km2) to benefit all creatures big and small, including endangered farmland birds and owls, brown hares, dormice and butterflies. STRAIGHT FROM THE MILL Home to the Jordans family for more than 150 years, Biggleswade in Bedfordshire is where the oats are turned into the cereals you love. Long-time employee Mark Anderson is still passionate about working with the company: “We’re lucky to know the farmers who grow our oats. I love that we help our wildlife too.” So, what is the secret to making Jordans’ famed granola? “We start by making a giant granola bar and then break it up into oaty clusters. Then, it’s in with the lovely fruits, nuts and berries. You can’t beat the aroma. If you’re ever in Biggleswade and can smell oaty flapjacks, you know you’re in Jordans country.”

To find out more, visit jordanscereals.co.uk

“We’re lucky to know the farmers who grow our oats. I love that we help our wildlife too”

The easy roast for 2

Ibérico pork loin with sherry roasted tomatoes, peppers and butter beans Serves 2 Hands-on time 20 min, plus resting Oven time 40-45 min You’ll also need 20cm x 30cm roasting tin or dish Useful to have Small food processor The Iberian pig breed, from Spain and Portugal, is known for its excellent ham, but recently the fresh meat, the ‘Wagyu of pork’, has become fashionable. The best stuff is from acorn-fed pigs. Find it at good butchers and at hgwalter.com and brindisa.com. Picada is a sauce from eastern Spain. If you can’t get hold of EASY SWAPS Ibérico pork, use outdoorreared pork loin chops, or switch to a British rose veal ribeye. Double or triple the recipe if SCALE you like (adjust the roasting IT UP dish size). Ask your butcher to prepare the meat as a loin rack and adjust the cooking times. Keep leftover picada covered DON’T WASTE and in the fridge for up to IT 4 days. Add to sandwiches or toss with pasta or barbecued/ roasted veg for a flavour boost. KNOWHOW

• Double thickness Ibérico pork loin chop, about 500g (see Know-how) • 250g cherry or plum tomatoes on the vine (we used a mix of both)

• 2-3 romano peppers, halved lengthways and deseeded • 6 garlic cloves, peeled • 100ml fino sherry • 25g unsalted butter • 1 tsp fennel seeds • 3 tbsp olive oil • 400g can butter beans, rinsed and drained • Crusty bread to serve For the almond and rocket picada • 1 slice rustic white bread • 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for a looser sauce (optional) • 1 small garlic clove, thinly sliced • 50g toasted almonds, plus a few extra, roughly chopped, to serve • 50g rocket leaves • 2 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and chopped • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon 1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/gas 6. Season the pork all over with salt and set aside for 30-60 minutes to come to room temperature. 2 Put the tomatoes, peppers, garlic, sherry and butter in the roasting tin/dish. Sprinkle over the fennel seeds, then drizzle over 2 tbsp of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, make the picada. Brush the bread with 1 tbsp of the picada oil, then toast in a heavybased frying pan or skillet over a medium heat, turning once, until

golden and crisp. Remove and set aside to cool. Add the remaining oil to the pan and cook the sliced garlic, stirring, for 1-2 minutes. 4 Roughly tear the toasted bread into the bowl of a food processor. Add the fried garlic and any oil from the pan, along with the rest of the picada ingredients and a pinch of salt. Whizz until finely chopped. Alternatively, finely chop everything by hand, then mix in a bowl for a slightly more rustic finish. If you want a more saucy consistency, stir in some extra olive oil. Set aside. 5 Put the frying pan over a high heat. Brush the remaining oil over the pork, then sear for 2-3 minutes all over. 6 After 30 minutes, remove the veg from the oven and stir in the butter beans. Nestle the pork into the veg, then return to the oven. Turn the oven down to 160°C fan/gas 4 and roast for 10-15 minutes until cooked to your liking. Rest the pork for 5-10 minutes in a warm place, then slice. Divide between 2 plates, add the roasted veg and beans, then drizzle over the cooking juices. Serve with picada drizzled over, with the roughly chopped toasted almonds and, if you like, crusty bread. Per serving 879kcals, 45.8g fat (12.4g saturated), 68.9g protein, 37g carbs (12.8g sugars), 0.6g salt, 15.2g fibre Find more recipe ideas for fino sherry in Use It Up.

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

“The Sunday roast is about as British as traditions come. Comforting and built for a crowd. But if, like me, you often find yourself cooking for a party of two, consider my riff on a classic pork roast. Fuss free, with summery flavours – and a bit special” JESS MEYER, ACTING DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR

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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 59

The veggie Sunday lunch

VEGGIE RECIPE

Dauphinois potato & leek pie with a cheesy crust Serves 6-8 Hands-on time 30 min, plus resting Oven time 60 min You’ll also need 20cm x 5cm deep round springform cake tin; baking sheet Useful to have Food processor; mandoline Make the pastry and filling up to 1 day ahead. Wrap and chill separately. You can also cook the pie ahead, cool, then store in an airtight container for 1-2 days. Gently reheat until piping hot to serve. MAKE AHEAD

• 800g maris piper potatoes, thinly sliced, about 3mm thick (a mandoline is best for this) • 150ml double cream • 2 fat garlic cloves, peeled and lightly bashed • 4 thyme sprigs or 2 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and finely chopped • 2 bay leaves • 20g unsalted butter • 2 medium leeks, finely sliced • Large splash dry white wine • 2½ tbsp plain flour • 100ml vegetable stock (preferably fresh) • 50g parmesan, or vegetarian alternative, grated • 150g brie or camembert (check it’s vegetarian, if needs be), sliced • 1-2 tbsp whole milk for brushing 60 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

For the pastry • 400g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 200g cold unsalted butter, cubed • 60g mature cheddar, grated • 1 medium free-range egg, beaten • 40-60ml ice-cold water 1 Heat the oven to 160ºC fan/gas 4. For the pastry, put the flour in a large mixing bowl with a pinch of salt, add the butter and rub into the flour using your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in the cheddar, then quickly stir in the egg and just enough of the water so the dough starts to come together in chunks – it shouldn’t be sticky. (To make this in a food processor, whizz the butter and flour, then pulse in the cheddar, followed by the egg and water.) Tip out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and bring together into a ball. Flatten, then wrap and rest in the fridge. 2 Bring a large pot of water to the boil, then add the potatoes and cook for 5 minutes. Drain well, then leave to cool. 3 In a small pan, warm the cream with the garlic, thyme/rosemary, bay leaves, a large pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set aside to infuse. 4 Heat the butter in a large frying pan over a low-medium heat until melted and foaming, then add the leeks. Cover and cook for 10-15 minutes, stirring now and then, until softened. Add the wine and simmer for 2-3 minutes or until mostly evaporated. Stir in the flour, then add the stock and simmer,

stirring, until thickened. 5 On a lightly floured surface, thinly roll out two thirds of the pastry and press into the base and sides of a 20cm springform cake tin, allowing a little to hang over the edge. 6 Put a baking sheet into the oven to heat up. Mix the potatoes, leeks, cream and grated cheese. Taste and add more salt and black pepper if needed (it should be well seasoned). Layer half the potato mixture in the pastry case, add the brie/camembert in a layer, then top with the remaining potato mixture. Roll out the rest of the pastry into a disc and make a hole in the middle for steam to escape. Lay the pastry on top of the pie, pinching the edges together to seal and crimp. Brush the top with the milk. 7 Put the pie on the hot baking sheet and bake for 60 minutes until golden and bubbling. Rest for 10 minutes before unclipping the sides of the tin. Slice and serve. Per serving (for 8) 727kcals, 43.9g fat (24g saturated), 16.7g protein, 62.5g carbs (2.6g sugars), 0.6g salt, 5.3g fibre

Try this with SXOLLIE Granny Smith apple cider (4.5%, South Africa) The cheeses in this dish call out for cider, and the fresh dry style of this one, with that Granny Smith flavour, cuts through and pairs with the pie. Advertisement feature

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS

It’s a double carb love affair – rich, creamy dauphinois potatoes meet the most moreish, crumbly cheese pastry. Serve this knockout pie with simple steamed greens or a seasonal salad

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Introducing the...

Eton mess roulade Roll on summer entertaining with the perfect pud to share with family or friends in the garden (just pre-order the prosecco and sunshine) JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR

★ COVER RECIPE Serves 8-10 Hands-on time 30 min Oven time 12 min You’ll also need Electric mixer; 27cm x 40cm swiss roll tin, lined with compostable baking paper; sheet of baking paper just larger than the tin, for rolling Make and roll the sponge and leave rolled in the paper (step 3) up to a few hours ahead. Unroll, then fill with the freshly made eton mess. Leftovers will keep for up to 2 days, but the meringue will start to dissolve after mixing with the cream. Serve leftovers with extra meringue crumbled over the top. Use raspberries or pitted NEXT cherries here instead. TIME Add a splash of liqueur or prosecco to the strawberry sauce for a grown-up flavour. If you have egg whites USE to use up, you could IT UP make your own meringues for the eton mess. Activate the QR code (left) for the delicious. foolproof guide. MAKE AHEAD

HAVE EGG WHITES HANDY? Activate the QR code to learn how to make your own meringues

NEXT MONTH Galette with frangipane and ice cream

• 4 large free-range eggs, separated • 75g golden caster sugar, plus extra to dust • 75g self-raising flour

62 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• 75g whole blanched almonds or unsalted pistachios, toasted in a hot dry pan and whizzed in a small food processor – or use pre-ground nuts • 1 tsp vanilla extract For the eton mess filling • 400g ripe strawberries, half chopped • 1-2 tbsp icing sugar (optional) • 300ml double cream • 4 meringue nests, crumbled (see Use It Up) 1 Heat the oven to 200ºC fan/ gas 7. Using an electric mixer, whisk the egg yolks and caster sugar in a bowl for 5-6 minutes until thick and creamy and the beaters leave a ribbon pattern on the surface of the mixture when lifted. Gently fold in the flour, toasted nuts and vanilla. 2 In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks (the peaks should flop over when you lift out the beaters). Add a spoonful of the whites to the cake batter and fold in briskly using a large spoon to loosen the mixture; fold in the rest in gentle figure-of-eight movements – you don’t want to overmix and knock all the air out. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin, level the top, then bake for 12-15 minutes until the sponge is risen, golden

and springy to the touch. 3 Dust the sheet of baking paper with caster sugar. When the sponge is baked, use oven gloves to turn it out onto the paper. Roll up the sponge from the short end like a swiss roll while still warm, rolling the paper too so it stays between the sponge layers, then leave to cool (see Make Ahead). 4 For the filling, whizz the chopped strawberries (with the icing sugar if they’re a bit sharp) until smooth. Whip the cream to soft peaks in a bowl using a balloon whisk or electric mixer – be careful not to over-whip as it will thicken when you fold in the strawberries/sauce/meringue. Slice most of the remaining strawberries, keeping a few halves to garnish, then gently swirl the slices into the cream with the strawberry sauce and most of the crumbled meringue. 5 Carefully unroll the cooled sponge, then spread with the eton mess mixture and roll up like a swiss roll again (without the baking paper in between). Top with extra meringue pieces, then serve on a platter with the reserved strawberries and any leftover eton mess on the side. Per serving (for 10) 333kcals, 23.1g fat (11.1g saturated), 7.1g protein, 23.1g carbs (14.2g sugars), 0.2g salt, 1.5g fibre

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON

PS Share your pics @deliciousmag using #Imadeitdelicious

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Letter to a food legend

James Ramsden, co-owner of London restaurants Pidgin and Sons & Daughters, recalls the moment he was inspired by the culinary wordsmith Nigel Slater to write about food – it involves a recreation of the “Homer Simpson bowling ball experience”. Read on and all will become clear

PHOTOGRAPHS: DAN JONES. FOOD STYLING: JULES MERCER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

can remember the exact moment I decided I wanted to write about food. It was December 2005 and my dad’s birthday was fast approaching, falling just a few days before Christmas. It was also the final few days of my first term at Bristol university and, as luck would have it, there was a bookshop next to the library. Somewhere in between doing bugger all and heading to the pub I found a moment to duck in and grab the first book I found. You had just written The Kitchen Diaries, and there sat the hardback on one of the tables in Blackwell’s: tactile, tempting and, well, conveniently placed. It would do for Dad. I was fairly sure he liked to cook, and it seemed a more considered present than a paperback Robert Harris. I made the purchase, then stepped out of the shop and into the Christmas holiday (via the pub). You may remember The Simpsons episode

in which, for Marge’s birthday, Homer gives her a bowling ball already inscribed ‘Homer’. Your book was my bowling ball. The very same night Dad opened his present (and possibly wondered why I’d given him a cookbook and not the new Robert Harris), I spirited it upstairs and climbed into bed, reading it from cover to cover over the following days and nights. I’d never done this with a cookbook. I’m not sure I’d read any cookery writing, for that matter. And somewhere in the course of those days I knew I wanted to write about food too. The original book still lives at my parents’ house, but at home we have the paperback version, which I gave to my wife Rosie early in our relationship (another bowling ball, for sure – but at least she likes bowling). Re-reading it, I feel a strange, comforting blend of nostalgia and familiarity. Little phrases jump out at me as being inherently

PORTRAIT: TRISHA WARD

Dear Nigel

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Slateresque, and also as having burrowed their way into how I write and think about food. A curry is made just hot enough to “create a bit of interest”. You say of a last-minute preparation of something my grandmother would have called ‘rice mess’: “sounds weird, tastes great” (which could be applied to a lot of what we’ve served at Pidgin over the years). A friend pitches up unexpectedly one afternoon and perches in the kitchen while you produce pancake after pancake. Isn’t this the quintessence of the perfect host we all aspire to be? Among the many things I find comforting about reading PG Wodehouse is that the sun is always shining and there’s always a good meal around the corner. So it is with you. And when the sun isn’t shining, when the narcissi are taking a hammering from the rain, this inclemency becomes an asset, inspiring something delicious: a frosted marmalade cake; baked onions with parmesan and cream; sausage and mash. What I love about your writing is that it manages to be deeply unpretentious and yet ever-so-slightly precious. It’s a precarious balancing act, but one that feels authentic. You’re serious about food but you don’t take food seriously. There’s a right and a wrong way in the Slater kitchen, though there’s a self-awareness to your method that acknowledges your way isn’t the only way. Perhaps. My grandmother used to stand at my shoulder while I cooked and observe, somewhat menacingly: “Oh, you do it like that, do you?” I suspect I’d feel the same trepidation cooking for you as I did for her. Doubly so in fact. You can cook. Talking of which... Here’s a recipe in your honour. For some reason I felt it had to be sausages – you seem to have a magic way with them. Your likely-baffling-to-Italians orecchiette with sausage, mustard and cream would be one of my desert island dishes, and your treatise on how to cook a sausage is something I think about every time I find myself tempted to jack up the

heat on the skillet. The secret is low-low heat, and you must cook them for an hour until the skin is sticky and irresistible and the sausage so hot you have to ‘jostle’ it around in your mouth. Sausages are largely a winter treat, but it’s summer, so a summer sausage recipe it is. Readers: if you’re going to barbecue your sausages, please follow Nigel’s advice above and use the coolest part of the barbie. (I bet Nigel doesn’t use the word ‘barbie’, though.) Nowadays there’s a tendency to expect all green veg to be cooked al dente, but that’s not the only way to cook a vegetable, and lately I’ve become besotted with braised courgettes – far more flavour than your basic crunchy courgette effort. Anyway, here’s the recipe, with my best regards.

James Ramsden Food writer & restaurateur Turn the page for the sausage recipe James has created in Nigel’s honour →

Sausages with braised courgettes and polenta Serves 4 Hands-on time 30 min Simmering time 1 hour Useful to have Food processor Italian sausages have a high meat content and are slightly coarser in texture than British varieties. Find them in larger supermarkets, Italian delis and butchers. If you can’t get a hold of them, use a good quality, fat British sausage with a high meat content. Leftover pesto will keep, DON’T WASTE stored in an airtight IT container in the fridge, for 2-3 days. Stir into soups or pasta, drizzle over grilled meat, or mix with shredded chicken for an easy sandwich filler. Halve the ingredients HALVE TO SERVE and cook the recipe TWO in a smaller pan so nothing dries out too much. KNOWHOW

• 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the sausages, if needed • 1 onion, roughly chopped • 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

• ½ tsp chilli flakes • 500g courgettes, roughly chopped • 100ml white wine • 8 Italian sausages (see Know-how) For the pesto drizzle • 1 tbsp pine nuts, toasted • 125g basil leaves • 1 small garlic clove • 25g parmesan, grated • 200ml olive oil For the polenta • 200g quick-cook polenta • 50g butter • ½ lemon for squeezing 1 Heat the oil in a large sauté pan (one with a lid) over a low-medium heat, then fry the onion and a pinch of salt for 20 minutes until softened and starting to caramelise (add a splash of water if it starts to look dry). 2 Add the garlic, chilli and courgettes, turn up the temperature a couple of notches and fry for 5 minutes more, stirring regularly, until the courgettes start to take on colour. Add the wine and simmer for a minute or so, then add 100ml water. Bring to a simmer,

then turn down the heat, cover, and cook gently for an hour. You want the courgettes falling apart and pleasantly gunge-coloured. 3 Meanwhile, cook the sausages in a cast iron or non-stick frying pan. Gently. Tenderly. For an hour, turning halfway through. Add a little oil if you need to get them started. 4 Make the pesto by blending the toasted pine nuts with the basil, garlic, parmesan and, a little at a time, the olive oil. Do this in a machine or by hand in a large pestle and mortar. This makes a slightly looser mixture than your classic pesto, as it’s for spooning over the sausages and whatnot (see Don’t Waste It). 5 When the sausages and courgettes are cooked and keeping warm, cook the polenta according to the packet instructions, then beat in the butter and plenty of pepper. Serve with the sausages, braised courgettes, pesto and a squeeze of lemon juice for good measure. Per serving 746kcals, 40.9g fat (15.8g saturated), 44g protein, 44g carbs (4.6g sugars), 4.4g salt, 3.9g fibre Find more recipe ideas for polenta in Use It Up

PORTRAIT: MARK THOMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK

JAMES’S TRIBUTE TO NIGEL SLATER

make.eat.share.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 67

1 Never has a big bag of crisps and a bowl of homemade dip (lots of recipes over at deliciousmagazine.co.uk) looked so alluring. It’s also perfect for warm bread rolls, with your poshest olive oil and balsamic for dipping. Cena blue terracotta chip & dip bowl, £35, oliverbonas.com

2 Seagrass tablemats are everywhere this summer and we love these ones for their extra pop of colour. You’ll be wanting to use them inside too. Seagrass & jute tablemat – turquoise (also in grey, yellow and green), £11.99 for 4, friendlyturtle.com

3 If you’re on the lookout for a cool jug that will hold enough water to keep the whole family hydrated and is durable enough to be used outside, this one is a bargain. Smoky blue acrylic jug, 2.6L, £12.99, lakeland.co.uk

4 This outdoor rug is mildew and mould-resistant so there’s no need to roll it up every evening (although it can be rolled for easy storage). It’s made from recycled plastic too, so any cocktail spillages can be wiped away. Fab Hab Palm Springs outdoor rug in teal, 120cm x 180cm, £59.95, cuckooland.com

5 Update tired-looking chairs with this tropical outdoor cushion. The cover is UV resistant and showerproof, so it’ll still look great come September. Blue Palms showerproof garden cushion, £25, raggedrose.com

6 You’ve been following our UK Cheese Tour (see p119) and carefully curated the cheese platter of all cheese platters, so make it extra Instagrammable with these quirky gilt-edged enamel knives. Agnes enamel cheese knives, £24.50 for set of 3, bombayduck.com

2 STYLE SECRETS

The outside table Whether you have a palatial plot or a balcony made for two, Laura McLeish picks the pieces to turn your outside space into a chic, comfortable and inviting spot for al fresco dining

home.

Gone are the days when eating outside meant raiding the camping kit for ugly plastic plates and cutlery. These beauties from the National Trust look great and, because they’re made of bamboo, they’re eco-friendly to boot. The plates, tumblers and cutlery are all dishwasher safe too. Riverlands bamboo plate, £4; bamboo tumbler, £4; bamboo bowl, £6; bamboo cutlery set, £4 (blue and green sold separately); seat pad, £9; National Trust recycled glass jug, £20, shop.nationaltrust.org.uk

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 69

Your Delicious One a Day

One a day lowers cholesterol Read more: Benecol.co.uk Scan your £1 discount coupon here. Plant stanol ester has been shown to lower cholesterol. High cholesterol is a risk factor in the development of coronary heart disease. A daily intake of 1.5-2.4g of plant stanols has been shown to lower cholesterol by 7-10% in 2-3 weeks.

Nourishing. Balanced. Healthy. Nutritious meals. Fresh flavours. Light & luscious.

ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

Fad-free eating. Need-to-know updates. Sensible advice.

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Choose ingredients full of vitamins, minerals and flavour, and a plant-based diet can be your ticket to good health. Dale Pinnock, aka the Medicinal Chef, shares great-tasting vegan recipes that also provide key elements of nutrition

VEGAN RECIPE

Baked tofu satay Serves 4 Hands-on time 20 min, plus 1-2 hours marinating Oven time 25 min You’ll also need Baking tray lined with foil; 4 large skewers (soaked for 30 min if wooden)

“I have been lucky enough to spend a lot of time in Malaysia, and one of my favourite street food dishes there is satay. It’s utterly addictive. It takes a little time to marinate the tofu, but it’s well worth it. Serve with stir-fried greens or brown rice.” RICH IN

72 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

B vitamins, calcium, selenium (an essential mineral), vitamin E

• 2 tsp tamari or soy sauce • 1 tbsp maple syrup • ½ tsp mild curry powder • 200g firm tofu, cubed • 150g brown rice For the satay dipping sauce • 2 heaped tbsp crunchy peanut butter • 2 heaped tsp vegan Thai red curry paste (many pastes contain fermented fish; Thai Taste’s version, from Sainsbury’s and large supermarkets, doesn’t ) • 4-6 tbsp coconut milk • 1 garlic clove, crushed • Lime wedges and red chilli slices to serve 1 In a bowl, mix together the soy sauce, maple syrup and curry powder. Add the tofu and marinate for 1-2 hours. 2 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ gas 6. Remove the tofu cubes

from the marinade and thread about 4-5 cubes onto each skewer. Put the tofu skewers on the prepared baking tray and bake for around 25 minutes, turning once halfway through the cooking time. 3 Meanwhile, cook the rice according to the pack instructions in a large pan of boiling water, then drain. 4 Put all the dipping sauce ingredients in a small pan and mix together until smooth, adding a little more coconut milk if needed. Heat gently until slightly thickened. 5 Serve the tofu skewers with the rice and the satay sauce for dipping, garnished with red chilli slices and accompanied by lime wedges to squeeze over. Per serving 308kcals, 13.1g fat (3.9g saturated), 12.8g protein, 33g carbs (4.2g sugars), 0.7g salt, 3.5g fibre →

PHOTOGRAPHS: FAITH MASON. FOOD STYLING: PHIL MUNDY. STYLING: SMITH & GILMOUR

Eat your way to better health

health.

VEGAN RECIPE

Caponata with couscous Serves 2-3 Hands-on time 45 min

“I absolutely love caponata — whether cold on toast, stirred into pasta or, like this, with couscous. This is a slight twist on the authentic dish, just to make life a little easier.” Carotenoids, flavonoids (beneﬁcial plant nutrients), inulin (soluble ﬁbre, good for the gut) RICH IN

• Olive oil for frying • 1 large red onion, halved and sliced • 2 garlic cloves, ﬁnely chopped • 1 large aubergine, chopped • 1 large courgette, chopped • 3-4 large tomatoes, quartered • 1 heaped tbsp capers • 2 tbsp pitted green or black olives • 200ml tinned chopped tomatoes • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar • 1 tsp dried mixed herbs • 120g wholewheat couscous • 175ml boiling water 1 Heat a little olive oil in a large heavy-based frying pan set over a medium heat, then fry the onion and garlic with a good pinch of salt for about 10 minutes until softened. 2 Add the aubergine and continue to fry for 10 minutes. 3 Add the courgette, fresh tomatoes, capers, olives and about half the chopped tomatoes. Stir thoroughly and bring to a simmer. Cook for 10 minutes until the sauce has reduced and the mixture is becoming dry. 4 Add the rest of the chopped tomatoes, plus the red wine vinegar and dried mixed herbs, then simmer for another 10 minutes until the sauce has reduced again and the

health.

flavours have concentrated. 5 Meanwhile, put the couscous in a bowl, add the boiling water and cover for 10 minutes. Fluff up with a fork. 6 To serve, divide the couscous between 2 plates and add a generous portion of the caponata alongside. Per serving (for 2) 549kcals, 17.8g fat (2.8g saturated), 14.9g protein, 72.6g carbs (22.7g sugars), 0.7g salt, 19.2g fibre VEGAN RECIPE

Kale salad with almond chilli sauce Serves 4 Hands-on time 5 min

“I adore this recipe. The flavours and nutrient density are off the charts. As this is so filling, you may find that just a big bowlful on its own can keep you going for hours.” Beta-carotene, calcium, glucosinolates (sulphur containing compounds found in brassicas), magnesium, potassium, vitamin K Massaging raw kale DALE'S helps to soften it and TIP makes it easier to digest. RICH IN

• 250g curly kale, tough stalks removed • Olive oil for drizzling • 1 large garlic clove, ﬁnely chopped • 1 small red chilli, deseeded and ﬁnely chopped • 2 tbsp almond butter • 2 tsp tamari or soy sauce • 2 tsp maple syrup • Juice ½ lime • Coriander sprigs, chopped, to garnish 1 Put the kale in a bowl. Drizzle over a little olive oil and sprinkle over some salt, then massage the kale with your hands for about 30 seconds (see tip). 2 In a small bowl, thoroughly

mix together the garlic, chilli, almond butter, soy sauce, maple syrup and lime juice. If the sauce is too thick, add a splash of water to thin it out. Drizzle the sauce over the massaged

kale, mix it in, then garnish with coriander and serve. Per serving 109kcals, 7.9g fat (0.8g saturated), 4.1g protein, 3.4g carbs (3g sugars), 0.4g salt, 3.5g fibre → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 75

• Olive oil for drizzling • 4-5 large plum tomatoes, quartered • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar • 100g orzo • 200ml vegan vegetable stock • Small handful basil leaves to garnish

Nutty sweet potato and spinach curry

VEGAN RECIPE

Orzo with roasted veg sauce Serves 2-3 Hands-on time 15 min Oven time 45-50 min You’ll also need Food processor

“This is real comfort food and a great one for those busier evenings when you don’t have time to be faffing around. Simple yet ﬂavoursome. What’s better than that?”

1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ gas 6. Put the onion, peppers and garlic in a roasting tin, drizzle with a little olive oil and add a good pinch of salt. Roast for about 20 minutes. Add the tomatoes and balsamic vinegar and stir. Return the vegetables to the oven and roast for a further 25-30 minutes. 2 At this stage there should be a lovely concentrated sauce in the bottom of the roasting tin. Transfer everything to a food processor and whizz. 3 Pour the sauce into a saucepan, add the orzo and simmer gently for about 10 minutes until the sauce has thickened and reduced and the orzo is starting to soften. Add the vegetable stock in small increments – you probably won’t need all of it. What you’re aiming for is a risotto-like texture, where the orzo is cooked al dente and the sauce is thick and rich. Garnish with basil leaves before serving. Per serving (for 3) 286kcals, 8.4g fat (1.2g saturated), 7.1g protein, 41.4g carbs (15.6g sugars), trace salt, 7.8g fibre VEGAN RECIPE

Nutty sweet potato and spinach curry

Beta-carotene (redorange antioxidant), lycopene (red antioxidant), vitamin C

Serves 3-4 Hands-on time 15 min Simmering time 35-40 min

• 1 large red onion, sliced • 1 large red pepper, deseeded and sliced • 1 large yellow pepper, deseeded and sliced • 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

“This is one-pot magic. Many people are put off making curries from scratch, believing they’re overly complex. Sure, some can be, but this is beginner-friendly and tastes out of this world!”

RICH IN

76 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

B vitamins, carotenoids (yellow/orange antioxidants), magnesium, vitamin C, vitamin E RICH IN

• 1 large red onion, chopped • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped • Thumb-size piece fresh ginger, finely chopped • Olive oil for frying • 1 tsp ground cumin • 1 tsp ground coriander • 1 tsp garam masala • 1 tsp ground turmeric • ½ tsp ground cinnamon • 2-3 sweet potatoes (about 600g), skin on, chopped into roughly 3cm chunks • 500ml vegan vegetable stock (you may not need all of this) • 1 heaped tbsp crunchy peanut butter • 4 handfuls baby leaf spinach 1 In a large heavy-based pan set over a medium heat, fry the onion, garlic, chilli and ginger in a little oil with a good pinch of salt for 10 minutes until softened. 2 Add the cumin, coriander, garam masala, turmeric and cinnamon, then fry for 2-3 minutes more until aromatic. 3 Add the sweet potatoes and enough vegetable stock to cover the contents of the pan by about two thirds. Simmer over a medium heat for 30-45 minutes, stirring often, until the liquid has reduced right down and the starch has leached from the sweet potatoes to create a thick sauce. It may seem like it’s taking a while but be patient. 4 Once the sauce has thickened, stir in the peanut butter. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the spinach until it wilts, then serve with wholegrain rice, if you’re hungry. Per serving (for 4) 265kcals, 9.4g fat (1.6g saturated), 5.3g protein, 36g carbs (11.9g sugars), 0.2g salt, 7.4g fibre →

health.

Orzo with roasted veg sauce

health.

VEGAN RECIPE

Beetroot, walnut and wasabi dip Serves 4 Hands-on time 5 min You’ll also need Food processor or blender

“This is something a little different, but it hits the spot. If you’ve never combined beetroot and wasabi before, you won’t regret it. The earthiness and heat blend beautifully.” Betacyanins (red antioxidants), calcium, iron, potassium RICH IN

• 50g walnuts • 200g cooked beetroot (not the type in vinegar) • 1½ tbsp tahini • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped • 1 heaped tsp wasabi • 4 tbsp lemon juice • Grilled flatbreads to serve 1 Put all the ingredients (except the flatbreads) in a food processor or blender, reserving a few walnuts, and whizz into a rough-textured dip. 2 Chop the remaining walnuts into small pieces and sprinkle them over the dip to garnish. Serve with grilled flatbreads. Per serving 152kcals, 11.9g fat (1.4g saturated), 4.7g protein, 5.3g carbs (4.8g sugars), 0.1g salt, 2.5g fibre

Recipes from The Medicinal Chef: PlantBased Diet by Dale Pinnock (Octopus Books £14.99). 78 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Beetroot, walnut and wasabi dip

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What’s good now onth m ey’re s i coming into season th

Blackcurrants are brimming with vitamin C, but they have other benefits too. Eating a small handful (about 75g) after a meal can help balance blood sugar levels and prevent energy slumps, scientists in Finland believe.

*LOW-FODMAP DIETS ARE SHORT-TERM EATING PLANS AND SHOULD BE SUPERVISED BY A QUALIFIED EXPERT. PORTRAIT: ANDREW CROWLEY. PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS: GETTY IMAGES

SOYA V BREAST CANCER Mounting evidence suggests consuming soya can reduce the risk of developing breast cancer, according to Professor Ian Rowland, emeritus professor of human nutrition at the University of Reading. In an expert panel discussion, Prof Rowland said several studies showed the protective benefits were greatest in women who started eating soya when they were adolescents and continued through adulthood. “We ought to encourage young girls to start consumption of soya as early as possible,” he said. As well as edamame (soya) beans, you can buy soya-based foods including burgers and ‘soy-sages’, tofu, tempeh, soya yogurts and milk.

fre sh

or en

News, nuggets of knowledge and advice you can trust. By Sue Quinn

– th

Health matters bl Enjoy

fr o s t an r r kcu

Fodmap ready meals Great news for people on low-Fodmap diets. Field Doctor (fielddoctor.co.uk) is the first meal delivery service in the UK to offer low-Fodmap dishes in its range. Fodmaps are fermentable carbohydrates poorly absorbed in the small intestine, causing digestive symptoms in people with Irritable Bowel Syndrome or sensitive guts. Field Doctor’s low-Fodmap meals have been developed by Sasha Watkins, a registered dietitian trained in the Fodmap diet, and prepared by chef Matt Williamson, a veteran of Michelin-Star restaurant kitchens. Prices start at £5.95*.

The power of plants Interested in traditional herbal medicine? Seek out this beautiful book from Chelsea Physic Garden, one of the oldest botanic gardens in the world. Healing with Plants: The Chelsea Physic Garden Herbal (Mitchell Beazley £25) profiles 130 different plants and their culinary and medicinal properties. Learn how to make simple herbal remedies, create a healing herb garden and forage for herbs in the wild. Sage tisane for a sore throat, anyone?

Public service announcement There is no test that can diagnose food intolerances (except lactose intolerance) says Dr Megan Rossi, a gut specialist dietitian. If you suspect certain foods are making you unwell, consult a medical professional – don’t give them up and don’t pay for an online test for food allergens. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 79

t l e w t a k u s o o h a t i r H sh u (wy r) t u o n i o a o v y g a t b l n f i s a o l h

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It’s something we can’t live without and it makes food taste great, yet in the quantities we’re consuming salt at the moment, it’s killing us. Sue Quinn looks at how we can be healthier in our seasoning without making food taste bland

irst, it’s useful to understand what salt is. It’s the white crystals we sprinkle on food to make it taste better – it creates chemical reactions that make flavours really pop in the mouth. Every good cook knows this to be true. The chemical name for salt is sodium chloride. And sodium is the problem. A high-salt diet disrupts the body’s natural sodium balance, so that it holds on to water. This increases blood volume, which places pressure on blood vessels with potentially serious consequences. The effect is most severe for people who have high blood pressure (hypertension) but can affect everyone. Excess salt is also linked to other health problems. “Salt is toxic to mammals in the quantity we eat it,” says Professor Graham MacGregor, chairman of the salt reduction campaign group Action on Salt. “Too much salt raises your blood pressure. It also causes cancer of the stomach and is associated with osteoporosis. But blood pressure is by far the biggest issue. Sixty per cent of strokes are due to high blood pressure, and 50% of all heart disease is due to high blood pressure. So it’s a major killer.”

cereals, cakes, pastries and chocolate drinks. Some brands of plant-based foods, such as mock meat burgers, can be especially high in salt. Salt levels can vary widely across similar products, so to understand how much salt you’re consuming it’s important to check the nutritional information on food labels. More than 1.5g of salt per 100g is high and less than 0.3g is low. On some products, high, medium and low salt levels are shown by red, amber and green colour coding. The problem is that once our taste buds become accustomed to high salt, they come to expect it.

“Too much salt raises your blood pressure... 50% of all heart disease is due to high blood pressure. It’s a major killer.”

How much is too much? Our bodies only need 1g of salt each day to function. That’s about a pinch. But in the UK, we consume 7-10g daily – well above the recommended limit of 6g salt, or one level teaspoon. Most of the salt in our diet – around 75% – comes from highly processed foods. Surprisingly, the largest source is bread. Not because it’s overly salty – we just eat a lot of it. But there’s hidden salt in an array of highly processed food products; manufacturers add it because it makes food taste better, and it’s a preservative that extends shelf life (see box over the page). Savoury foods such as takeaways, ready meals, soups, sauces and crisps are noticeably high in salt. But less obvious products contain large amounts too, including on-the-go salads and their dressings, dips, breakfast

How can we cut down?

Reducing salt in cooking is important, too. We often add salt by eye rather than measuring, so it’s easy to add quite a lot (all too often TV chefs can be seen liberally sprinkling it over food and adding it to pans). Even salting the cooking water for pasta, rice and vegetables adds to your daily tally. “The maximum recommended daily amount of salt is really small, just one level teaspoon, so it’s important to be mindful of the ingredients we’re using when cooking from scratch,” says Sonia Pombo, nutritionist and Action on Sugar campaign manager. “Items like stock cubes are really salty, and so are things we use to add flavour to things like ragù, such as Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce. It all adds up really easily.” However, you can trick your taste buds into thinking you’ve seasoned food with more salt than you have, says Nik Sharma, a molecular biologist, cook and author of The Flavour Equation. “If possible, add a bit of lemon juice (or lime juice or vinegar) to a dish where the salt is reduced and you won’t miss the lower amount of salt,” he says. “Sour ingredients contain acids that tend to amplify the salty taste in food.” If adding an acidic liquid would spoil the result – roast potatoes might lose their crunch, for example – there are other options. “I add a dried source of sourness by → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 81

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CONTRIBUTORS TO SALT IN OUR DIET (source: Action on Salt)

Bread (14%) Bacon (4.1%) Ready meals (3.9%) Cheddar and other hard cheese (3.4%) Pizza (2.8%) Soup (2.4%) Ham (2.3%) Butter and spreads (2.3%) Sausages (2.1%) Baked beans (2%)

Think before you add Consider the saltiness of the ingredients you’re using before you start cooking. For example, when making a pasta dish with anchovies or olives (both are high in salt), you might not add any other salt, even to the pasta water. And taste your cooking as you go along – it might not need as much salt as you think. “We often add salt out of habit,” says Sonia Pombo. The good news is that reducing your salt intake doesn’t have to be difficult, she says. “Give yourself time for your taste buds to adjust and they will. It only takes about two or three weeks on a low-salt diet and your taste buds will have been retrained, then you’ll start to really taste the food and not notice the salt.” Even better, your blood pressure will benefit quickly, too. “People start noticing changes to their blood pressure within a few weeks of cutting back,” Pombo says. “And every 1g reduction each day we do collectively as a population prevents 4,000 premature deaths from heart attacks and strokes. It’s such a tiny reduction – a pinch of salt over a day – but it makes an extraordinary difference.”

Useful tips to cut down FOODSWITCH This is a clever little smartphone app that helps you find the lowest salt options, as well as healthier swaps, by scanning the bar code of a food. 82 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

SPECIALITY SALT Be aware: pink salt, rock salt and fleur de sel all contain sodium chloride, just like table salt, so eating too much can also damage your health. Garlic salt and celery salt are also mostly salt.

POTASSIUM SALT Brands such Lo Salt contain up to 70% less sodium than standard table salt and can be a healthy alternative. They may even help reduce blood pressure.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, HOLLY PICKERING, DAVIDGRIFFEN.COM, GARETH MORGANS

THE TOP

using amchur (dried unripe mango powder), sumac or even dried tart berries,” Sharma says. Another way to increase the perception of saltiness without salt is to use ingredients naturally rich in umami, or savouriness, because they pack a flavour punch. Fresh tomatoes (especially roasted, as their flavour is concentrated), dried mushrooms and some seaweeds are good options. They all naturally contain flavour-boosting MSG (see p16). Seafood and meat (but not smoked or salt-cured) are umami-rich and low in sodium. But check the labels to make sure extra salt hasn’t been added. Other foods packed with umami include parmesan and other aged cheeses, miso paste, soy sauce, Marmite and fermented vegetables such as kimchi. Bear in mind some of these contain lots of added salt, but a little goes a long way. “If you do use these ingredients to build umami in your food, do so sparingly or buy low-sodium versions,” Sharma suggests. “You can always add umami to your food using ingredients that contain little to no added salt, like dried shiitake mushrooms soaked in hot water,” he says. Punchy herbs and spices can also add a burst of flavour to a dish so you don’t notice the reduced salt. Try gomasio (sesame salt), shichimi togarashi (a Japanese dried spice mix), onion powder, nutritional yeast (a great alternative to parmesan), smoked paprika, black pepper, and dried oregano and thyme.

Why you’ll love the July issue of

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ON SALE 1 JULY

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Eat. Get grilling!

PLUS

Including an amazing midweek barbecue

• Celebrate the abundance of seasonal veg

David Atherton

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Create the Bake Off champ’s chewy bagels

• A French picnic by the river

Beautiful berries

• Use science to perfect your ice cream

Inspiring sweet and savoury recipes

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 83

Spatchcock chicken with aleppo chilli Serves 3-4 Hands-on time 10 min, plus marinating and resting Oven time About 1 hour You’ll also need Kitchen scissors • 1.4kg free-range chicken For the marinade • 1 tbsp aleppo chilli • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp cumin seeds • 1 tsp honey • Juice ½ lemon • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 garlic cloves, crushed For the yogurt sauce • 250g natural yogurt • 1 tbsp dried mint • Pinch ground cumin • Handful fresh dill, finely chopped

Hide and sleek Master your culinary creations with the NEFF Slide&Hide, the world’s first oven built with a unique disappearing door

or more than 100 years, NEFF has been powering passionate cooks with its thoughtful designs and innovative products – and it doesn’t get much better than the Slide&Hide oven. The ﬁrst of its kind built with a door that slides and hides under the cavity, this ingenious appliance allows you to get closer to your cooking than ever before. It’s also bursting with clever functions like CircoTherm, a setting

that delivers superior heat distribution and allows you to cook several dishes at the same time on different shelves, without the ﬂavours intermingling. Then there’s the handy Meat Probe, which monitors the temperature of your meat and switches the heat off once it’s cooked and ready to enjoy, taking the guesswork out of your cooking. With the Slide&Hide, this mouthwatering recipe (right) is so simple it practically cooks itself.

For more recipe inspiration, visit neff-home.com/uk/the-ingredient 84 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

1 Cut the chicken along both sides of the spine with kitchen scissors, open the bird out, then flatten. Cut a few slashes in the breasts and thighs and put in a roasting tin. Whisk together the marinade ingredients, then rub into the meat. Cover the bird and put in the fridge for at least 2 hours or overnight. 2 When ready to cook, heat the oven to CircoRoast 180°C. Put the chicken breast-side down on a rack over the Universal Pan, insert the Meat Probe into the thickest part of the thigh, then put the chicken in the oven. Set the probe to 75°C and cook for 25 minutes. Turn the chicken over and baste with the juices from the pan, then return to the oven and leave the probe to turn off when the desired temperature is reached. Once cooked, remove and leave to rest for at least 15 minutes. 3 Mix the yogurt sauce ingredients with some salt and pepper in a bowl and set aside. Carve the chicken into breast and thigh portions and serve with flatbreads and the yogurt sauce. DON’T FORGET THE FLATBREADS!

For the ultimate feast, serve this delectable combination with some warm homemade flatbreads. For the recipe, head to bit.ly/neffspatchcock-chicken

Make.

Easy food for busy nights. Family friendly recipes.

PHOTOGRAPH: CLARE WINFIELD

Cake in the tin. Eating well. Loving your storecupboard.

››

The weeknight picnic If you fancy heading to the park (or the garden) for some cross-legged dining, here are some packable dishes to enjoy. And if it’s Friday, rosé is allowed too (see p120) RECIPES: JULES MERCER. PHOTOGRAPHS: CLARE WINFIELD. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON

Good for free-from diets

Pack and go Put the couscous in a lidded container, dollop on some tzatziki, then top with the aubergines and a little pomegranate molasses. Chill until ready to go. VEGGIE RECIPE

Roast aubergines and giant couscous with tzatziki Serves 4 Hands-on time 15 min Oven time 20-25 min If you’re on a dairy free/vegan diet, serve the aubergines with unsweetened coconut yogurt mixed with a little grated cucumber. If you’re gluten-free, use quinoa instead of couscous and skip the pittas (miso is often gluten-free, but always check). EASY SWAPS

• 2 tbsp miso paste • A few glugs extra-virgin olive oil

• 3 large aubergines, cut into chunks • 200g giant couscous (we used wholegrain) • 100g pitted green olives, chopped • 4 spring onions, finely sliced • 100g roasted whole almonds (unsalted), roughly chopped • ½ tsp chilli flakes (optional) • 200g tub tzatziki (see Easy Swaps) • Pomegranate molasses to drizzle • Toasted pittas to serve 1 Heat the oven to 200ºC fan/gas 7. In a large bowl, mix the miso with a good glug of olive oil, then add the aubergine chunks and toss until evenly coated. Spread the aubergine chunks in a single

layer in a large baking tray, then roast for 20-25 minutes until golden and beginning to char. Set aside to cool. 2 Meanwhile, cook the couscous according to the pack instructions, then drain and put in a bowl with the olives, spring onions, almonds and chilli flakes, if using. Add a splash more olive oil, season with salt, then toss together. 3 Serve the couscous on a platter, topped with the roast aubergine chunks. Drizzle with pomegranate molasses, then serve with the tzatziki and some toasted pittas, if you like. Per serving 522kcals, 28.1g fat (4.6g saturated), 17.4g protein, 46.6g carbs (7.2g sugars), 1.8g salt, 6.9g fibre

simple.

Pack and go Pack the kebabs in a container on top of the noodles so the flavours can mingle, or grill the skewers on a portable barbecue and take the salad along readyprepared.

Less than 30 min hands-on

Sticky sesame chicken skewers with noodle salad Serves 2-3 Hands-on time 20 min, plus marinating You’ll also need Metal or wooden skewers (soak wooden ones in warm water for 30 minutes beforehand) Use chicken thighs instead or extra firm tofu. If you’re on a gluten-free diet, replace the soy sauce with tamari (check the label). EASY SWAPS

• 2 free-range, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 3-4cm chunks • 4 tbsp soy sauce • 3 tbsp sesame oil • 2 tbsp runny honey

• 2 tbsp sesame seeds • 6 spring onions, 2 cut into 3-4cm lengths and 4 thinly sliced • 200g flat rice noodles • 3cm piece fresh ginger, finely grated • 1 bunch coriander, finely chopped • 2 carrots, sliced with a julienne peeler or coarsely grated • Grated zest and juice 2 limes, plus wedges to serve 1 In a bowl, mix the chicken pieces, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp sesame oil, 1 tbsp honey and 1 tbsp sesame seeds. Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes and up to 5 hours to marinate. 2 Put a griddle pan over a medium-high heat or heat the grill to high. Thread the

chicken onto skewers, alternating with lengths of spring onion. Griddle/grill for 8-12 minutes, turning, until the chicken is lightly charred and cooked through. 3 Meanwhile, cook the noodles according to the pack instructions. 4 In a large bowl, mix the remaining soy sauce, sesame oil, honey and sesame seeds with the ginger, coriander, sliced spring onions, carrots and lime zest and juice. Rinse the cooked noodles under cold water, then toss in the bowl. 5 Serve the chicken kebabs with the noodle salad and lime wedges. Per serving (for 3) 615kcals, 18.6g fat (3.2g saturated), 36.2g protein, 73.2g carbs (17g sugars), 3g salt, 5.3g fibre → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 87

Pack and go Wrap the meatball subs in wax paper and foil to retain their heat. They’re sturdy enough to put in a rucksack.

No cutlery required

Vietnamese-style meatball subs (bahn mi) Serves 2-4 depending on your appetite and what else you’re having Hands-on time 25 min We’ve used beef here but try pork, turkey or a vegetarian/ vegan alternative. Swap the mayo for an avocado based product if you’re on an egg-free or vegan diet. EASY SWAPS

• 250g raw veg, shredded (we used ¼ red cabbage and 1 large carrot) • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar • 3cm piece fresh ginger, finely grated • 3 spring onions, finely sliced

• • • • •

3 tbsp sesame oil 3 tbsp soy sauce 12 free-range British beef meatballs 2 demi baguettes, sliced open 3-4 tbsp mayonnaise (use reduced fat if you prefer) • 1 small bunch coriander, leaves picked and roughly chopped if large • Sriracha or other chilli sauce to serve (optional) 1 In a large bowl, mix the shredded veg and red wine vinegar with a little salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. Mix well, then set aside for 15-20 minutes until lightly pickled. 2 Meanwhile, whisk the ginger, spring

onions, sesame oil and soy sauce in a large bowl. Fry the meatballs in a non-stick pan for 6-8 minutes until cooked through and crisp on the outside, then add straight to the bowl with the soy-sesame sauce and toss together while still hot. 3 To assemble the subs, spread both split baguettes with some mayonnaise, then top with the quick-pickled veg, meatballs and coriander. Drizzle over any remaining sauce and some spicy sriracha, if you like. Per serving (for 4) 581kcals, 31.1g fat (7.6g saturated), 23.1g protein, 49.2g carbs (8.2g sugars), 2.9g salt, 6.1g fibre

simple.

Pack and go Wrap the pie whole or cut into slices and transport in individual lidded containers.

Your oven does the hard work

VEGGIE RECIPE

Feta, spinach, pea and sweetcorn pie Serves 4 Hands-on time 15 min Oven time 20-25 min You’ll also need 23cm ovenproof frying pan or hob-safe baking tin, oiled • 130g frozen spinach, defrosted • 150g frozen peas, defrosted • 2 sweetcorn cobs, kernels sliced off (or 50g frozen sweetcorn, defrosted) • 3 medium free-range eggs, beaten • Small pinch grated nutmeg • 200g feta, roughly crumbled • Small bunch mint, roughly chopped

• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 7 filo pastry sheets (we used Jus-Rol) • Olive oil for brushing • 2 tbsp sesame seeds 1 Heat the oven to 180ºC fan/gas 6. Squeeze the spinach in a sieve with the back of a wooden spoon to remove as much moisture as possible, then put in a large bowl with the peas, sweetcorn, eggs, nutmeg, feta and mint. Season with black pepper and a little salt, add the lemon zest and juice, then mix well. 2 Lay a sheet of filo in the base of the pan/tin, brush with olive oil, then add the remaining sheets, brushing with oil as you go and fanning them out so the

pan/tin is evenly covered with a large (about 12-15cm) overhang all round. 3 Spoon the filling into the pan/tin, then fold the overhanging pastry over the filling, scrunching to give a ruffled top. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. 4 Cook on the hob, on a medium heat, for 5 minutes to crisp the base of the pie, then bake for 20-25 minutes until golden and firm to the touch. If the top browns too quickly, cover loosely with foil. Remove the pie and allow to cool. Serve as is, or with a big dollop of aioli. Per serving 530kcals, 27.6g fat (10.1g saturated), 25.6g protein, 42.5g carbs (3.3g sugars), 1.8g salt, 4.5g fibre → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 89

simple.

NEXT MONTH

Pack and go

The barbie that’s quick enough for a weeknight

Wrap the cooled flatbreads in a clean tea towel or pack in a lidded container to transport. Pack the remaining ingredients in separate containers and assemble just before eating.

Taste of an Italian summer

Courgette flatbreads with ham, peaches & burrata Serves 4 Hands-on time 20 min Oven time 15 min You’ll also need 2 large baking sheets lined with compostable baking paper Swap the ham for extra grilled veg (or packs of marinated med veg). Swap olive oil for chilli or garlic-infused oil for extra oomph. EASY SWAPS

• 350g self-raising flour • 300g natural yogurt • 1 small bunch basil, roughly chopped, plus a few leaves for serving 90 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• 1 large or 2 medium courgettes, thinly sliced • 1 red onion, sliced into thin rounds • 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve • 2 peaches, halved, stones removed and sliced • 12 slices parma ham or prosciutto • 2 burrata/mozzarella balls 1 Heat the oven to 210ºC fan/gas 8. In a large bowl, mix the flour, yogurt and chopped basil with a pinch of salt. Knead for about 5 minutes to form a soft dough, adding a few tablespoons of water if the mixture feels dry. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions. Roll out each piece of dough to a rough

20cm circle or slipper shape. Transfer to the baking sheets once rolled. 2 Top the flatbreads with the sliced courgettes and onion, drizzle over the olive oil, then bake for 15 minutes until golden brown and cooked through. Put on a wire rack to cool. 3 Divide the peaches, parma ham slices and burrata/mozzarella evenly among the flatbreads. Scatter with basil leaves, drizzle with a little extra olive oil, then season with salt and pepper to serve. Per serving 707kcals, 25.9g fat (12.5g saturated), 34.2g protein, 81.1g carbs (14.3g sugars), 3g salt, 6.3g fibre

Barbecued sea bream with asparagus & herb hollandaise Serves 2-3 Hands-on time 30 min You’ll also need Barbecue fish basket

Hops reign supreme Show off the flavours in your dishes by pairing them with a bottle of Birrificio Angelo Poretti

orget wine. Next time you dish up a summer stunner, try serving it with a chilled bottle of Birrificio Angelo Poretti beer. This distinctive pairing beer is made to flatter all your flavours. For more than a century, Birrificio Angelo Poretti has been producing its crisp, fresh lagerstyle beer using only the finest ingredients from around the world at its brewery at the foot of the Italian Campo dei Fiori mountains. And thanks to the pristine alpine water used in the brewing process, the beer has a beautiful clarity and

palate-cleansing quality that makes it food’s best friend. Birrificio Angelo Poretti has now teamed up with Ben Marks, chef and owner of Perilla in north London. He’s passionate about serving the beer with his dishes and has specially created a recipe pairing you’re going to love. So try Ben’s sea bream dish with Birrificio Angelo Poretti. The dominant Columbus hop in the beer imparts pepper, liquorice and aniseed flavours that bring alive the chives and chervil in the hollandaise, while the beer’s lively sparkle cuts through the rich sauce, helping the fish to shine.

Birrificio Angelo Poretti is available in selected Tesco and M&S Food stores

Enjoy responsibly

• 3 free-range egg yolks • 2 tbsp white wine vinegar • 200g unsalted butter, cut into cubes • Small handful each chives and chervil, chopped, plus a few extra whole leaves • 400-500g sea bream, canoe filleted and pin boned (ask your fishmonger to do this) • 4-5 asparagus spears, cut into 1cm pieces • Small glug extra-virgin olive oil • 4 slices lardo di colonnata (optional; available from Italian delis) • Juice 1 lemon • Boiled new potatoes to serve (optional) 1 For the hollandaise, set a medium pan of water over a medium heat. When it comes to a slow simmer, turn the heat down to low and put a metal bowl on top, ensuring it doesn’t touch the water. Add the egg yolks to the bowl along with a splash of water and the white wine vinegar. Whisk continuously, ensuring they don’t scramble – keep the water at a slow simmer and remove the bowl if it gets too hot and starts to steam. When the mixture has lightened in colour and thickened, remove the pan and bowl from the heat. 2 Add the cubes of butter to a small pan, then gently heat until just melted. Return the pan and yolk mixture bowl to the heat. When the yolk mixture has warmed again, add the melted butter drop by drop at first, whisking continuously, then trickle the butter in, still whisking, until you have a thick, glossy hollandaise. Again, remove the bowl from the heat if it starts to steam. Season to taste with sea salt and gently stir in the chives and chervil. Cover and set aside somewhere warm until needed. 3 Season the fish inside and out with salt, then transfer to the fish basket (you can wrap the fish in well-oiled tin foil if you don’t have one and use tongs). Barbecue over a medium heat or cook under a hot grill, turning regularly, for 6-7 minutes or until lightly charred on both sides. 4 Cook the asparagus in boiling salted water for 1 minute, then drain and toss with a little extra-virgin olive oil. Lay the lardo slices over the fish, top with the asparagus and the lemon juice, then garnish the fish and hollandaise with a few whole herb leaves. Serve the fish and hollandaise with boiled new potatoes, if you like.

Filippo Berio Rustico is a delicious, unfiltered extra virgin olive oil crafted for the olive oil lover. Made without any filtration, tiny pieces of olive give Filippo Berio Rustico a rich green, slightly cloudy appearance with the most delicious, balanced flavour.

TASTING NOTES: This oil has the pleasant, light aroma of ripe olives and green grass. On the palate, it has a natural fruity olive flavour with hints of tomato, green leaves and a mild peppery finish with a light bitterness and notes of dried fruit. An oil for the aficionado, Rustico is perfect for salad dressings, dipping and marinating.

Lovingly blended by Filippo Berio the UK’s favourite Olive Oil Brand* Find us at your local Tesco, Ocado, EH Booths and good delicatessens or order online at www.filippoberio.co.uk * Source: Nielsen Olive Oil category VALUE MAT 27.02.21

simple.

Budget recipe Stretch two salmon fillets to feed four with this simple pasta bake Creamy salmon pasta bake Serves 4 Hands-on time 15 min Oven time 15-20 min You’ll also need 22cm flameproof shallow casserole Try using smoked mackerel or hot-smoked trout instead of hotsmoked salmon, or for a super thrifty option try tinned salmon. For a lighter meal, swap EASY SWAPS the cream for chicken or vegetable stock. We’ve used conchiglioni (large shells) but you could swap these for an equal quantity of any other short pasta shape you have handy.

RECIPE: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: WEI TANG

NEXT TIME

1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ gas 6. Cook the pasta in a pan of salted water for 2 minutes less than the pack instructions, then drain, reserving a cup of the cooking water. 2 When the pasta is almost done, heat the oil or butter in the casserole over a medium heat and cook the spring onions for 1-2 minutes. Add the drained pasta, cream, crème fraîche and about half the reserved cooking water, then cook, stirring

constantly, for 1-2 minutes until the sauce thickens. Add the remaining ingredients and enough of the cooking water to make a light sauce, stirring to coat the pasta. Season well. 3 Bake for 15-20 minutes until bubbling and golden. Scatter with the extra dill and serve with lemon wedges and a salad. Per serving 656kcals, 23.5g fat (10.5g saturated), 36.4g protein, 70.9g carbs (6g sugars), 1.8g salt, 7.5g fibre

£1.72 per portion

NEXT MONTH A crowd-pleasing idea for gammon

• 350g large pasta shells (see Easy Swaps) • 1 tbsp olive oil or 20g butter • 4 spring onions, finely chopped • 150ml single cream (see Easy Swaps) • 4 tbsp half-fat crème fraîche • 2 sustainable hotsmoked salmon fillets (see Next Time), flaked • 150g frozen peas, defrosted • 100g asparagus, chopped into 5cm lengths • Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus wedges to serve (optional) • 2 tbsp dill, finely chopped, plus extra to serve • 2 tbsp capers (optional) • 50g finely grated parmesan deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93

Use it up Veggie fritters

Light, crispy fritters made from the parts of vegetables you’d usually throw away – this is what we call ‘a-peeling’ VEGGIE RECIPE Makes around 8 fritters Hands-on time 15 min The fritters can be made up to 1 day ahead. Cover and store in the fridge, then reheat in a low oven or in a hot dry pan (turning once) for a few minutes before serving. Use whatever veg scrap EASY SWAPS combination you have to hand. Parsnip or sweet potato peelings are great too. And feel free to chop and add any herbs that look past their prime. Baharat is a Middle Eastern KNOWspice blend. If you don’t have HOW it, add a large pinch each of paprika, cumin and cinnamon, or try za’atar for something a bit different. MAKE AHEAD

94 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• 100g self-raising flour • 100ml whole milk • 1 large free-range egg • ½ tsp baharat spice mix (see Know-how) • 1 broccoli stalk, finely chopped • 1 cauliflower stalk, finely chopped (plus any leaves, roughly chopped) • 150g vegetable peelings (we used carrot and potato), chopped • Bunch coriander stalks, chopped (plus a few leaves if you have any) • 2 tbsp vegetable oil for frying • Drizzle pomegranate molasses • 50g feta, crumbled • Natural yogurt, drizzled with extravirgin olive oil, to serve 1 Put the flour in a mixing bowl and slowly whisk in the milk. Add the egg

and whisk until incorporated, then stir in the spice mix, chopped veg and peelings and the coriander stalks. 2 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Spoon 4 ladlefuls of batter in the pan to make 4 fritters, then fry for 3-4 minutes on each side, flipping them when they’re golden underneath. Remove to a plate lined with kitchen paper while you cook the rest – add a splash more oil to the pan as needed (see Make Ahead). 3 Season the fritters with salt and pepper, drizzle some pomegranate molasses over the top and crumble over the feta. Scatter with coriander leaves, if using, and serve with the yogurt. Per fritter 127kcals, 6.5g fat (1.5g saturated), 3.9g protein, 12.5g carbs (1.2g sugars), 0.3g salt, 1.4g fibre

simple.

...and more ideas for leftovers Simple, savvy ways to use up the open, partly used bits and bobs left over from some of the recipes in this issue

MAIN RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: CLARE WINFIELD. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON. ADDITIONAL RECIPES: JESS MEYER, SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH

Saffron (from Rick Stein’s saffron buns p112) • Saffron and pistachio ice cream Mix a pinch of saffron threads with 1 tbsp warm water and soak for 10 minutes. In a large bowl, whisk a 397g can of condensed milk, 600ml double cream and 2 tsp vanilla bean paste to stiff peaks. Fold the saffron threads and their water, 200g finely chopped pistachios and a pinch of cardamom into the cream mix. Pour into a freezer-safe container, cover and freeze for 6 hours or until frozen. • Saffron butter Grind a pinch of saffron threads and a pinch of salt in a pestle and mortar until powdered. Add 250g softened unsalted butter and mix well. Wrap well and store in the fridge for several weeks – or freeze in small portions for up to 6 months. Stir into savoury dishes such as scrambled eggs and risotto, or spread over pancakes or loaf cakes.

Fino sherry (from the easy roast for two p58) • Superior risotto Swap the white wine for fino sherry in your favourite risotto recipe. Try it with mushroom, asparagus or any seafood versions – it’s especially good with shellfish risottos. • Sherry syllabub Whisk 400ml double cream until it begins to thicken, then add 150ml fino sherry, 50g icing sugar and 1 tsp vanilla bean paste. Whisk

until it reaches soft pillowy peaks. Serve the boozy syllabub with fresh summer fruit or your favourite cake. • Sherry mojito Muddle the juice of 1 lime, 1 tsp granulated sugar and a few mint leaves in a tall glass until the mint breaks up a bit (use the handle of a wooden spoon). Add 40ml fino sherry, 30ml dark rum and enough ice to fill the glass. Top up with soda water, then stir to combine. Salud!

Caraway Seeds (from the pork chops p31) • Crunchy cake topping Toast 1 tbsp caraway seeds in a dry frying pan for 1-2 minutes, then lightly crush in a pestle and mortar. Mix with 3-4 tbsp demerara sugar and 1 tsp ground cinnamon. Sprinkle the mix over your favourite banana or carrot loaf cake before baking for a fragrant, crunchy twist on a classic. • Quick pickles Whisk 3 tbsp apple cider vinegar, 1 tbsp caster sugar, a pinch of salt and 2 tsp toasted and lightly crushed caraway seeds. Peel 2 carrots into long ribbons with a vegetable peeler and add to the pickling mix along with a handful of roughly chopped coriander and a pinch of chilli flakes (optional). Mix together, then leave to pickle for 30 minutes. Add to sandwiches, salads or tacos. You can pickle other veg too. Caraway works well with beetroot, celeriac, apple and, of course, cabbage.

• Caraway rye croutons Toss a large pinch of caraway seeds with about 200g roughly torn chunks of rye bread, a couple of glugs of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Season with a few grinds of black pepper, then bake in a 160C fan/gas 4 oven for 10-15 minutes until crisp and toasted. Use to add extra crunch to salads and soups.

Polenta (from the sausages p66) • Polenta pie topper Put 100g polenta, 200g plain flour, 1 tsp baking powder, ½ tsp salt and 100g grated mature cheese in a bowl and mix. Whisk 1 medium free-range egg with 200ml whole milk, then pour over the dry ingredients and stir to combine. Spoon over a pie filling, chilli or stew, then bake at 180°C fan/gas 6 for 15 minutes until golden and risen. • Polenta pizza Boil 600ml milk with 400ml vegetable stock, then whisk in 250g polenta until smooth and thick (about 2 minutes). Stir in 40g grated parmesan with plenty of seasoning. Scrape onto an oiled baking sheet and spread to 1cm thick. Top with any of your favourite pizza toppings, then bake at 200°C fan/gas 7 for 15-20 minutes until golden and crisp at the edges.

NEXT MONTH A chicken and kimchee toastie, plus more great ideas for leftovers

Easy bake special

Strawberry delights Get fruity with classic teatime treats for the cake tin or bake sale that are simple enough to make with the kids RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE AND JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPHS: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON

Strawberry custard creams Makes About 24 sandwiched biscuits Hands-on time 25 min, plus cooling Oven time 10-15 min You’ll also need Electric mixer; compostable baking paper; 6cm cookie cutter (fluted or plain); 2-3 large baking sheets lined with compostable baking paper Useful to have Piping bag fitted with a 1.5cm nozzle You can make the biscuit dough well in advance. Wrap the dough, then chill for 1-2 days or freeze for up to 6 months – or open freeze the unbaked biscuits on a tray for 1-2 hours, then pack into freezer bags. Cook from frozen, adding 2-3 minutes to the baking time. Once baked, cooled and assembled, the biscuits will keep in an airtight container

somewhere cool for several days. Swap the berry filling EASY SWAPS for caramel, chocolate spread or peanut butter. Bake any off-cuts of DON’T WASTE biscuit dough to enjoy IT as a baker’s treat. • 225g unsalted butter, softened • 115g golden caster sugar • 2 tsp vanilla extract • 340g plain flour • 125g custard powder (we used Bird’s) • 1-2 tbsp whole milk

MAKE AHEAD

96 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

For the filling • 300g icing sugar, sifted • 150g unsalted butter, softened • 2 tbsp custard powder • 20g freeze-dried strawberries (from larger supermarkets), finely crushed • 2 tsp vanilla bean paste/extract • 3-4 tbsp strawberry jam (preferably smooth)

simple.

Shortbread biscuits with a jammy custard centre

1 Heat the oven to 150°C fan/ gas 3½. Put the softened butter and golden caster sugar in a large bowl, then beat with an electric mixer until pale and fluffy. Add the vanilla, flour, custard powder, a pinch of salt and just enough milk for the mixture to come together into a soft dough. Turn out the dough onto a large sheet of compostable baking paper and bring together with your hands. Put another sheet of baking paper on top, then roll out to an even thickness of

5mm. Put the dough in the fridge for 30 minutes to firm up (see Make Ahead). 2 Put all the filling ingredients except the jam in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until pale and fluffy. Cover and set aside until ready to use. 3 When the biscuit dough is firm, peel off one piece of baking paper, then lightly flour the cookie cutter and stamp out as many biscuits as you can. Put on prepared baking trays spaced 2cm apart and bake for 10-15 minutes until firm but still quite

pale. Transfer to a cooling rack and allow to cool completely. 4 Pipe or spread half the biscuits with a generous ring of filling, leaving a little hollow in the middle. Spoon some jam into the hollow, then sandwich together with the rest of the biscuits. Per biscuit (for 24) 266kcals, 13.1g fat (8.2g saturated), 1.6g protein, 35.2g carbs (18.3g sugars), 0.1g salt, 0.6g fibre →

Strawberry and lemon drizzle madeleines

simple.

Soft, pink and oh-so-pretty

Pink fondant fancies Makes 25 cakes Hands-on time 45 min, plus 2-3 hours cooling/chilling/setting Oven time 45-50 min You’ll also need Electric hand mixer; 20cm square cake tin lined with compostable baking paper; piping bag fitted with a 1cm nozzle Use shop-bought madeira cake and/or buttercream if time is short. Use lemon curd instead NEXT of jam filling and swap TIME the strawberry colouring and flavour in the icing for lemon. Wrap the cooled, un-iced MAKE AHEAD cake well and freeze for up to 1 month. Defrost at room temperature before continuing with the recipe from step 2. Alternatively the sponge will keep fresh, well wrapped, for up to 2 days. EASY SWAPS

• 225g unsalted butter, softened • 225g caster sugar • 4 medium free-range eggs • 225g self-raising flour, sifted • Finely grated zest 1 lemon • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 1-2 tbsp whole milk • 150g strawberry jam For the buttercream • 150g unsalted butter, softened • 100g icing sugar, sifted • 1 tsp vanilla bean paste (or extract) For the icing • 500g fondant icing sugar • 80-100ml hot water • Juice 1 lemon • Pink food colouring • Strawberry essence 1 Heat the oven to 150°C fan/ gas 3½. Put the 225g softened butter and caster sugar in a large

bowl and beat with an electric mixer until very pale and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, mixing well between additions. Using a large metal spoon in a figure-of-eight motion, gently fold in the flour, zest, vanilla extract and enough milk to get a dropping consistency (a spoonful of batter held upside-down over the bowl should drop in about 5 seconds). Pour the batter into the tin, smooth the top, then bake on the middle shelf for 40-50 minutes (a skewer pushed into the centre should come out clean). Cool the cake in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn out onto → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 99

simple.

zigzag pattern over the cakes (for the classic Mr Kipling look!). Per fondant fancy 295kcals, 13.4g fat (8.1g saturated), 2.5g protein, 40.8g carbs (33g sugars), 0.1g salt, 0.5g fibre

Strawberry and lemon drizzle madeleines Makes About 18 madeleines Hand-on time 30 min, plus cooling and resting Oven time 10-12 min You’ll also need Electric hand mixer; 1-2 non-stick madeleine tins; small food processor or bullet blender Add vanilla extract to the batter instead of lemon zest. Swap the lemon drizzle for plain icing. EASY SWAPS

• 3 medium free-range eggs • 100g golden caster sugar • Finely grated zest 2 lemons • 85g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 4 tsp cornflour • 1 tsp baking powder

Email us your recipe pics or tag us @deliciousmag on Instagram

Squidgy chocolate caramel cookies

Blueberry, almond and lemon cake* by @SOPHIES HOMECOOKING

100 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Chocolate and pistachio Viennese whirls by @CAMBRAY ROADKITCHEN

For the lemon drizzle • Granulated sugar • Juice 2 lemons For the strawberry drizzle • 100g strawberries, hulled • 1 tbsp icing sugar • Freeze-dried strawberries, crushed, or chopped fresh strawberries to decorate (optional; see Easy Swaps)

Your delicious. bakes

NEXT MONTH

• 100g unsalted butter, melted, plus 20g for brushing the tins

Martha Collison’s tea & biscuit brownies by @HAYCHCHAD

Gail’s Bakery cinnamon buns as made by @SCOTTISH SPATULA

1 Heat the oven to 170°C fan/ gas 5. Beat the eggs and sugar in a large mixing bowl for 5 minutes or until thick and moussey. Mix in the lemon zest. 2 Sift the flour, cornflour and baking powder into a separate mixing bowl. Using a large metal spoon, gently fold into the egg mixture, then fold in 100g of the melted butter. Rest the batter for 15 minutes in the fridge. 3 Brush the madeleine trays with the 20g melted butter, then set aside for a minute until the butter sets a little. Sprinkle each mould with a little flour, shake to coat, then remove any excess. 4 Pipe or spoon roughly 2 tbsp madeleine batter into each mould. Bake for 10-12 minutes until puffed up, slightly peaked in the centre and golden (you may need to do this in batches). 5 Cool in the tin(s) for 1 minute. Mix together the lemon drizzle ingredients until the sugar dissolves, then transfer the madeleines to a wire rack set over a tray and spoon over the drizzle while still warm. Leave to cool. 6 For the strawberry drizzle, whizz the berries with the icing sugar in a processor/blender. Spoon over the madeleines, then sprinkle with crushed/ chopped freeze-dried/fresh berries if you like. Per madeleine (for 18) 107kcals, 5.6g fat (3.5g saturated), 1.7g protein, 12.3g carbs (7.7g sugars), 0.1g salt, 0.4g fibre

*OCTOBER 2018 ISSUE, P54

a wire rack to cool completely. 2 For the buttercream, put the 150g softened butter, icing sugar and vanilla in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until smooth and fluffy. Put the buttercream in the piping bag fitted with the fine nozzle and set aside until ready to use. 3 Slice the cooled cake in half horizontally. Spread the jam over one half and sandwich the cake back together. Wrap well, then chill for 30 minutes (this will make it easier to cut neatly). 4 For the icing, sift the fondant icing sugar into a large bowl, then whisk in just enough hot water to make a thick pouring consistency (you want the icing to flow slowly but easily over the cakes). Put 3-4 tbsp of the icing in a small piping bag and set aside for decorating (optional). Colour and flavour the rest of the icing with a few drops of pink food colouring and strawberry essence. 5 Trim the cake so the edges are straight, then cut into 25 even squares (5 x 5). Pipe a little buttercream on top of each square, then transfer to a wire rack set over a large baking tray. Spoon the icing over the cakes so they’re thinly and evenly coated. Set aside at room temperature for 20-30 minutes to set. 6 Snip a very small hole in the piping bag with the reserved icing (if using) and pipe a thin

One of a kind As rich in flavour as it is in history, Parmigiano Reggiano is a cheese that’s wonderfully authentic and unique, making it the perfect addition to any meal

hen something tastes as perfect as Parmigiano Reggiano, there’s no need to change how it’s made or to mix up the recipe. That’s why this delectable hard cheese, the one and only Parmesan, has been made in the same way by passionate artisans in a small area of northern Italy, using the same ingredients for almost 1,000 years. Solely produced in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and Mantua to the right of the river Po, and Bologna to the left of the river Reno, the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese is made using only three ingredients – milk, salt and rennet.

Parmigiano Reggiano is naturally lactose free with no additives or preservatives and it’s even rich in calcium and is a source of phosphorous. What’s more, the milk used to make Parmigiano Reggiano doesn’t undergo any heat treatments, meaning that it retains all the richness of its lactic ferments. THE KING OF CHEESE To protect the authenticity of this world-renowned cheese, to this day the farmers use only traditional practices and follow strict regulations on cattle feeding to ensure the milk that’s produced for it is always of the highest quality. In much the same way, the artisans who make the

cheese still use traditional tools such as the spino (an ancient wooden stick used to break the curd), before moulding Parmigiano Reggiano into its signature wheel shape. Each wheel is then left to mature for a minimum of 12 months to achieve a magniﬁcent depth of ﬂavour before being inspected by the Consortium, a body of experts who certify whether or not a wheel is of a high enough standard to be branded with the iconic Parmigiano Reggiano mark. The result? A cheese with an inimitable taste and texture that will enhance any premium dish or cheeseboard. Try it now grated over a pasta dish or salad, or simply on its own.

To find out more, visit parmigianoreggiano.com or follow @parmigianoreggianouk on Instagram

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people.

Meet the good folk doing good things in the world of food

Appetite for change Two community beekeeping projects are helping bolster the UK’s population of native black bees – and enriching refugees’ lives while they’re at it

WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. PHOTOGRAPH: WALTER FINCH

Beekeepers Ali Alzein (left) and Ryad Alsous are local heroes

CREATING A BUZZ UP NORTH Bee expert Dr Ryad Alsous was an academic at the University of Damascus, where he oversaw 500 hives, before the outbreak of the Syrian civil war led him to resettle in West Yorkshire in 2013. Still inspired to share his passion, he devised a beekeeping initiative with a difference. “His vision was to have refugees and locals working together,” says Kim Strickson, a council worker who helped make it a reality in 2017. Today, The Buzz Project has a dozen colourful hives at Standedge Tunnels, a local tourist attraction. Ryad favours black bees, native to the UK but once feared extinct, over other European honeybees. It’s thought they’re more resilient to disease and the UK climate. Ryad has imparted his expertise to around 60 participants, including refugees and people seeking asylum, out of work or recovering from illness. Everyone’s welcome at monthly volunteer days to help maintain the hives. Jarring up the honey is popular, and the group make soap and candles with bee products, all sold locally to raise funds. The Buzz Project is part of the City of Sanctuary movement, which aims to make the UK a welcoming place for those ﬂeeing violence and persecution. Kim

recalls a UK-born member making pancakes for everyone – with honey, of course. “Then somebody from another country shared their recipe using honey. The chance to exchange experiences and traditions, have a laugh and eat together is important.” Refugees are now involved in the project’s leadership. “We’re all teachers and learners in this,” says Kim.

“It was just a hobby until I realised it could save my life” A HIVE OF ACTIVITY IN THE SOUTH “It was just a hobby – until I realised it could save my life,” says Ali Alzein. He settled in London in 2014 after ﬂeeing the conﬂict in Syria and bought a hive two years ago. His grandfather kept bees. “I have post-traumatic stress disorder, but when I’m working with the bees, the anxiety disappears,” he says. “I realised this could help other refugees who went through similar experiences to mine.” His project, Bees & Refugees, has close to 30 hives across London’s community gardens, parks and schools, and on

Jamie’s Farm, an educational facility for young people in Lewes, East Sussex. Ali and volunteers have taught therapeutic beekeeping workshops to more than 200 refugees, schoolchildren and people in the wider community. Ali is also keen to restore the native black bee’s fortunes, and he promotes ethical beekeeping, without antibiotics and collecting only honey the bees can spare. The project is crowdfunding for a community garden site, with plans to hire trained refugees. “This way it will be an initiative by refugees for refugees.” Ali plans to take the project to refugee camps. “It’s not only therapy – it’s a source of income they can use wherever they go, without needing to master the language. You just need to understand the bees.” He knows the beneﬁts ﬁrsthand: “I’ve made really good friends in the UK, thanks to this project.”

• Find The Buzz Project at facebook.com/BuzzinginKirklees; donations welcome • Follow Bees & Refugees on Instagram @beesandrefugees; donate at gofundme.com/beesand-refugees-crisis-appeal

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Get out for a vineyard tour and tasting during English Wine Week

The hub.

Skills, knowledge, best buys & sustainable living

Learn. Discover. Buy. Fife’s fresh & fruity secret: Tayport Distillery’s raspberry liqueur

Savour the West Country sunshine in soft solstice cheese

››

Jen’s

kitchen Fresh from her test kitchen, delicious. food editor Jen highlights the best stuff she’s tried from the big retailers, celebrates jersey royals and shares her tips and tricks

Cook’s tip The new product I’m using … HAVE YOU SEEN STASHER BAGS? They’re plastic-free storage bags for food and other bits made from food-grade silicone. They’re freezer and dishwasher-safe – and you can even cook in them. Cook with a Stasher Use them in the microwave or go all Heston Blumenthal and try ‘sous vide’ cooking (sort of). Sous vide is a cheffy way to slow cook at a lower temperature in a water bath for tender results. Put food inside the bag with any seasonings or marinade, then lower the open bag into a pan of hot water, so the air escapes and a vacuum forms around the food. After a few seconds, carefully close the top of the bag, clip it to the side of the pan and leave to cook. Verdict Versatile – and it’s easy to see what you store. Where to buy Find Stashers at Lakeland, John Lewis, Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters and Free People. bag (£19.99) and e of salmon fillets.

y seasonal hero: jersey royals royals are the only potatoes with their own PDO status, recognising ecial way they’re grown on the Channel Island of Jersey. The arrival of kidney-shaped beauties signals the start of spring, and this month is t time to enjoy them before they disappear in July. o enjoy Their firm texture makes them a natural for salads, but n’t beat them steamed or boiled, dripping with salted butter and kling of freshly cut chives. this... Put jerseys in a shallow roasting tin, season with salt and a umac/pepper and toss in olive oil, then roast until tender and golden. camembert cheese to the middle of the tray and continue to cook until eese is molten inside. Serve sprinkled with a little chopped fresh y and cocktail sticks for dipping the potatoes into the cheese – yum! h jersey royals at deliciousmagazine.co.uk for more recipe ideas

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

Bag yourselfg sspoumdes nutty tastinu can while yo

Thanks to Janice Jones of the delicious. Facebook reader panel for her idea to cut down on waste and stir-fry past-their-best salad leaves in a little oil. You can serve them in place of wilted greens. Rocket and watercress, with their peppery flavour, work particularly well – and they’re excellent mixed into mashed potato.

the hub.

PICKLING: the lowdown Before you try Gill’s recipe on p36, here’s some more info on lacto-fermentation, the process that cold-ferments the pickle. The term refers to a speciﬁc type of bacteria (lactobacillus), often found on low-growing plants as well as in dairy and meat products. Unlike potentially harmful bacteria, lactobacillus helps to preserve, rather than spoil, food and can thrive in salty environments without oxygen. As the lactobacillus bacteria set up camp, they convert lactose and other sugars into lactic acid, a natural preservative that gives fermented foods their distinctive ﬂavour.

Here are our top tips for perfect pickling

Pick produce at its prime For successful pickling, save past-its-prime fruit and veg for jams or chutneys and opt for fresh ingredients at the peak of their season. Remove blemishes and choose organic if possible. Always use pure salt Table salt often has added ingredients that can interfere with the fermentation process and alter the flavour. Choose pure sea salt or kosher crystal salt instead. Unrefined salts such as mineral-rich Himalayan rock salt also work well, adding flavour and additional nutrients for the healthy bacteria to feed on. Weigh your ingredients The strength of the pickling solution is a key factor: too strong and all bacteria will be killed off, too weak and other, potentially nasty, bacteria may start to grow. A solution of 2.5-4% salt is the sweet spot with most pickles. This means adding 2.5-4g salt for every 100ml water. Taste the solution before adding veg – it should be pleasantly salty without being overly saline. Clean thoroughly but gently Vegetables should be washed thoroughly with cold water. Make sure jars and other equipment are also

clean, but avoid harsh cleaning products, as any residue could affect fermentation. Give them room to breathe Keep pickles covered but not sealed while fermenting. As the lactobacillus bacteria start to work, gases will build up in your jar or crock. Remove the seal from clip-top jars and ‘burp’ ferments daily, invest in a fermentation lid, or simply cover your fermentation vessel with a plate so pressure doesn’t build up. Use your senses Bubbles and gas pockets, a distinct but pleasant aroma and a hint of sourness are all good signs that your ferments are on the right track. Trust your instinct Don’t panic if the brine turns cloudy. This often signals the ferment is going well. But if it’s accompanied by a bad smell or unpleasant texture, it’s best to err on the th side of cauttion. Likewise, if black or fuzzy mo ould develops, it’’s a sign the ggoodies are sstruggling, and it may be better to start again. Ferments sh hould smell and taaste ‘funky’ but nevver off.

6 7

What I’m loving on the shelves

TASTE OF THE LEVANT If, like me, you’re a fan of food from the eastern Med, you’ll love the new Levantine range in Waitrose stores. Daughter Rom was a fan of the dips and salads, and I wrapped these garlic flatbreads around grilled halloumi with a dollop of houmous. The Levantine Table 2 Roasted Garlic Flatbreads, £1.28, Waitrose

SUN’S OUT, GRILLS OUT These garlic and herb-marinated lamb cutlets and the genius tangy burger slaw from the new M&S Collection Master Grill range took me straight back to my burger-loving uni days, albeit with an upmarket twist. 6 British Lamb Cutlets, £10.50, and Burger Slaw, £2 for 300g

JOLLY GOOD SAUSAGES Made from sustainably sourced British pork, Jolly Hog’s extra-long hot dogs are back for summer. Son Jack and his mates are fans of a BBQ lunch after sports matches, and these have a smoky flavour that tastes like the real deal. £3 for a pack of 4. Find the full range at Sainsbury’s and Ocado deliciousmagazine.co.uk 109

Food geek

x i o p er magic

Ready to raise your cooking game? In this series we equip you with the science to ensure success every time

o t o i t a r e h t p Kee an

“Mirepoix (pronounced meer-pwah) is one of the building blocks of savoury cooking. It’s a French term for the mixture of chopped onion, carrot and celery that forms the starting point for countless braises, stews, casseroles, soups and sauces.” Food writer (and self-confessed food obsessive) Lucas Hollweg

the hub.

Why the fancy name? Like so much in French gastronomy, it’s named after a person, in this case CharlesPierre-Gaston François de Lévis, duc de Lévis-Mirepoix, whose chef is credited with coming up with the combination in the 18th century. It’s also much easier to say “mirepoix” than listing all the ingredients (or indeed using his whole name).

What else should I know? • When cooking the mirepoix, add a pinch of salt. The salt helps, along with the steamer effect from the lid (see 2), to soften the cell walls of the veg. It rounds out the flavours too. • Mirepoix is not to be confused with brunoise. The latter is a style of cutting (like julienne) where you chop any veg into tiny cubes.

NEXT MONTH What exactly is ice cream?

The science-y bit

How do you make it? The classic proportion is 2:1:1. Two parts chopped onion to one each of carrot and celery, measured by weight. How finely you chop the vegetables depends on how you’re going to use them – and specifically, how long they’re going to cook. The quicker the dish, the smaller the vegetables should be. So if the mirepoix is to be used as the aromatic base for a fast sauce, you want it cut small so it softens and delivers its flavour quickly. If it’s to be used for a braised lamb shoulder, which will cook for 5-7 hours, the vegetables can be cut into big chunks – quartered onions, say, and 5cm pieces of carrot and celery. The important thing is to cut everything roughly the same size so it cooks evenly. Depending on what you’re making, leeks are sometimes used as well as, or in place of, the carrots. Mirepoix with leek instead of carrot is sometimes referred to as white mirepoix (and used for light-coloured dishes).

How do you use it? Mirepoix is sweated (cooked gently) over a low heat in butter, oil and/or the fat left in the pan after you’ve browned the meat element of a dish, so it absorbs some of the meat’s flavour. You want the vegetables to sweat rather than caramelise (or, in scientific terms, you want to avoid the Maillard reactions that cause food to brown), so they turn soft and sweet, providing a flavourful background layer to whatever you’re cooking. The mirepoix is often left in the finished dish, though for smooth sauces it’s strained out. Sweating breaks down the cell walls in the vegetables, causing them to soften and release some of their water content, so they sort of fry-steam in their own juices. The

water loss means their sweetness and flavour is intensified. So, while caramelised onions are almost entirely about sweetness, sweated onions retain elements of the allium’s other, more aromatic qualities. The same goes, to a lesser extent, for celery and carrot. The mirepoix is properly sweated when the onions have turned translucent.

So it’s just used in French dishes? No. Although mirepoix is a French term, many other cuisines are built on similar flavour foundations. Italian cooking, for instance, has soffritto (literally ‘slowly fried’), a similar mix and ratio of vegetables, which is usually, though not always, cooked in olive oil (the raw mixture, incidentally, is known as battuto). Depending on the dish, soffritto sometimes also includes herbs such as rosemary and bay, as well as garlic. It’s not to be confused with Spanish sofrito…

You say soffritto, I say sofrito… Spanish sofrito is a fried mixture of onions, garlic, tomato and, often, peppers and herbs. It’s used as the starting point for paellas, bean dishes and many others. Portugal and South/Central American cuisines have their own versions, with the herbs and seasoning varying with each one. Then there’s Cajun cooking’s holy trinity (onions, celery and green peppers), Germany’s Suppengrüne (leeks, carrots, celeriac) and Poland’s włoszczyzna, which usually adds parsley root to the mix. The Indian flavour base of onion, ginger and garlic is also a version of the same principle. Mirepoix may be a French word, but the idea is found all around the world of cooking.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 111

The technical bake

Saffron buns

The recipe Makes 10 Hands-on time 30 min, plus resting and proving Oven time 20-25 min You’ll also need Large baking tray lined with compostable baking paper Useful to have Stand mixer fitted with a dough hook The buns will keep in a sealed tub for several days. Warm in a low oven to serve, or halve and toast. Freeze the cooled buns in a sealed container between layers of baking paper. To serve, defrost at room temperature, then warm through in a low oven. The ‘window pane’ test KNOWchecks if your dough has HOW been kneaded enough. Gently stretch a piece of dough between your fingers and thumbs to form a translucent membrane (like a window). If ready for rising, the dough will do this without tearing. The dough rises quite slowly because of the butter, milk and eggs – but it has a softer crumb. If any buns go a bit DON’T WASTE stale, they’re wonderful IT sliced and buttered in a bread and butter pudding. MAKE AHEAD

The writer, presenter and restaurateur opened The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow, Cornwall, in 1975. More than a dozen restaurants, 20 books and 12 TV series later, Rick is still passionate about seafood, cooking and Cornwall

SEE HOW IT’S DONE Activate the QR code to see a video showing how to make Rick’s saffron buns

• 325ml whole milk • About 10 saffron strands • 90g clotted cream • 50g unsalted butter, at room temperature

• 550g strong white bread flour, sifted, plus extra to dust • 1¼ tsp fine sea salt • 50g golden caster sugar, plus 50g for the glaze • 7g fast-action dried yeast • 70g raisins • 30g chopped mixed peel

1 Heat the milk in a saucepan until it’s not quite boiling (steaming), remove from the heat, lightly crumble the saffron threads between your fingers into the milk, then stir. Add the clotted cream and butter, then continue to stir until melted. Set aside to infuse for 15-20 minutes or until the mixture is about body temperature (36.5ºC or feels lukewarm) and is a golden yellow colour. 2 Combine the flour, salt, sugar and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Make a well in the centre and add the warm milk mixture and stir to combine. Knead on slow speed for about 5 minutes, then add the raisins and mixed peel and knead for 5 minutes more until the dough feels springy and elastic (it should bounce back when pushed with a finger – and see Know-how for another test). 2a Alternatively, you can make the dough by hand. Add the flour, salt, sugar and yeast to a mixing bowl and stir in the warm milk mixture (from step 1). Knead briefly on a lightly floured work surface until you have a smooth

dough, then add the raisins and peel and knead for a further 6-8 minutes until springy and elastic (see step 2). Return to the bowl. 3 Cover the bowl with a clean tea towel and leave in a warm place for 45-60 minutes or until doubled in size (see Know-how). 4 Heat the oven to 200ºC fan/ gas 7. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knock it back (fold it once or twice to remove any large pockets of air), then knead for 2 minutes until smooth and elastic. Divide the dough into 10 equal-size pieces, then roll each one into a ball and put on the baking tray, leaving space between them to prove (rise in their shape). Cover with a clean, slightly damp tea towel (or put in a reusable proving bag) and prove in a warm place for 30 minutes or so. Put the buns in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes until risen and golden. 5 Meanwhile, dissolve the final 50g sugar in a pan with 2 tbsp water, then boil for about a minute to make a glossy syrup. 6 Put the buns on a wire rack. Brush the tops with the syrup, then leave to cool a little. Serve warm with clotted cream or butter, or leave to cool, then halve, toast and butter. Per bun 383kcals, 11.8g fat (7.2g saturated), 7.2g protein, 60.8g carbs (18g sugars), 0.7g salt, 2.5g fibre Find more recipe ideas for saffron in Use It Up.

PHOTOGRAPH: DAN JONES. FOOD STYLING: JULES MERCER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

“These sweet golden yellow buns, served hot with clotted cream or good butter – plus a cup of afternoon tea – are pretty close to heaven” RICK STEIN

the hub.

Rick on Cornish saffron “Saffron has a long history in Cornwall. It’s not native to the UK, but it’s thought its origins in the county go right back to the Phoenicians (1500-300BC), ancient traders from what is now Lebanon. They’d sail to Cornwall for tin and copper, which they traded for wine, olive oil and, indeed, saffron. Pottery found around Tintagel suggests that the Cornish had Mediterranean produce thousands of years ago. In the series on Cornwall I made last year, I filmed on a saffron farm at Portscatho near St Mawes. I couldn’t get over the exotic scent and purple and yellow hues of the saffron crocuses. Great to know it’s still being grown here.” You can buy Cornish saffron from cornishsaffroncompany.co.uk

NEXT MONTH David Atherton makes brilliant bagels deliciousmagazine.co.uk 113

Thanks, Show your gratitude to the food-loving father figures in your life with the best bottles, books and gourmet gifts

1. Pies by post Chunk of Devon lets you say it with pie – literally. Choose steak and ale or chicken and bacon with ‘Happy Father’s Day’ in pastry on the lid and you’ll even get a 20cm apple pie for afters. £20 with free delivery (order from 1 June), chunkofdevon.co.uk

2. Bake & brew If he dabbles in sourdough or brewing, these updated guides by Bake Off’s James Morton are a friendly steer. They’re technical without being dense, and James explains his methods with frank advice on kit, ingredients and troubleshooting. Quadrille £12 each

3. Stir up fun Encourage little ones to spend some quality baking time with dad and Bottled Baking Co’s cute recipes-in-a-bottle for cookies, brownies and cakes – just shake and add eggs/butter/milk/oil. From £10.50 for a 750ml bottle (£4.95 delivery), bottledbaking.co.uk

4. Wine by the glass A Wine List subscription lets him try wines from lesser-known grapes, regions and winemakers by the glass, with three pouches of interesting wine each month, plus tasting notes and access to a home-learning course. £19/month, thewinelist.net/by-the-glass

5. Smokin’ hot Introduce the rich flavours of wood smoke to the barbecue with this set of six sustainably sourced wood chips – including maple, beech and hickory – plus a stainless steel smoker box, recipe booklet and starter guide. £32 (£3.95 delivery), hotsmoked.co.uk

6. Top bottle Does Dad prefer his ‘craft’ beer trad? Two 500ml bottles of West Berkshire Brewery’s reassuringly old-fashioned English bitter Good Old Boy have been rechristened Good Old Dad with a stylish pint glass. £8.20 for 2 x 500ml bottles (£5.99 delivery), wbbrew.com

7. Holiday at home A Cook’s Tour recipe boxes for two from Rocket feature menus that pay tribute to a different country’s cuisine every few weeks, complete with a YouTube cookalong. £65 with free delivery, acookstour.co.uk. Use code Delicious10 for £10 off your first box* 114 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

*A COOK’S TOUR OFFER VALID UNTIL 30 JUNE 2021. **BRINDISA INTRODUCTORY OFFER OPEN TO UK RESIDENTS OVER 18, VALID ONLY ON FULL PRICE ITEMS AND NOT VALID IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY OTHER OFFER. CANNOT BE REDEEMED AGAINST GIFT CARDS OR EXCHANGED FOR CASH. LIMIT OF ONE REDEMPTION PER CUSTOMER, WHILE STOCKS LAST. OFFER ENDS 31 JULY 2021

Dad! x

FATHER’S DAY 20 JUNE

the hub.

BOX OF TREATS You can’t go wrong with Spanish nibbles from Brindisa. Its new luxury hamper does the choosy work for you: two types of charcuterie and cheese (including classic jamón Ibérico and manchego), orange blossom honey, posh Ortiz bonito tuna, Perelló gordal olives, cigarillo biscuits, a celebratory bottle of cava and more. £125 (free delivery), brindisa.com ENJOY 20% OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER AT BRINDISA.COM (excluding any delivery charges) when you enter code SUMMER20 at the online checkout**.

the hub.

Kitchen bookshelf

Give yourself some summer grilling inspiration with three new reads on al fresco cooking

COMPETITION

A dazzler from Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich, chef-owners of London grill house Honey & Smoke. “Where there’s fire, food, friendships and memories are made,” the pair write, introducing recipes and stories from Jordan, Egypt, Israel, Turkey and Greece, as well as their own restaurant. Pavilion Books £26 BEST FOR... Igniting your enthusiasm (and wanderlust)

OUTDOOR COOKING A chef of Tom’s calibre can be relied on to deliver surpassingly flavourful food, and these 80-plus platefuls don’t disappoint. Along with elevated burgers, skewers, ribs, steaks and wings are sophisticated seafood and vegetable dishes, slow-cooked meat, sides and dishes for cooking over an open campfire. Tom’s advice on barbecue gear and technique is clear and practical, without being too techy. Bloomsbury Absolute £22 BEST FOR... Upping your grill game

WIN a romantic stay in Cornwall

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et in a former convent in the cathedral city of Truro, The Alverton oozes character with its own bell tower, stained glass windows and ivy-clad walls. Our winner and guest will spend two nights in a sumptuous suite, enjoying a hearty Cornish breakfast each morning, plus a champagne afternoon tea and three-course dinner during their stay. Menus at the hotel’s two AA-rosette restaurant, overlooking the rolling gardens, feature ingredients foraged, fished and farmed in Cornwall. Get our thealverton.co.uk

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Save on a winter stay at The Alverton Hotel from November to February. Enjoy a Cosy Cornish Retreat from £139 per couple per night, including full Cornish breakfast, a two-course dinner and Cornish cream tea to share.** For more details or to book, please call 01872 276633 quoting ‘delicious’

WORDS: SUSAN LOW

Bristol-based food lover and self-described ‘fire cooking specialist’ Genevieve Taylor is queen of the grill. Her advice on key barbecue equipment, and how to use it to harness heat and flame through direct and indirect grilling, is sound. The flavours are gutsy and the ideas spice-savvy and creative in her 60 recipes for meat, fish, veg and sweet things. Quadrille £12.99 BEST FOR... BBQ beginners seeking flavoursome ideas

CHASING SMOKE: COOKING OVER FIRE AROUND THE LEVANT

*APPROXIMATE PRIZE VALUE. COMPETITION CLOSES 30 JUN 2021. PRIZE SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY AND VALID UNTIL 31 DEC 2021. EXCLUSIONS APPLY. **OFFER BASED ON TWO SHARING A CLASSIC ROOM. VALID 1 NOV 2021 UNTIL 28 FEB 2022, SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. EXCLUSIONS APPLY. NEW BOOKINGS ONLY. NOT TO BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY OTHER OFFER

FOOLPROOF BBQ

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Shiver me timbers, choc ahoy! CRITICAL READING Palm oil is everywhere. It lurks in lipstick and shampoo, pizzas, peanut butter and biscuits. Journalist Jocelyn C Zuckerman investigates this controversial substance, which has pushed animals like the orang-utan to the verge of extinction, in her new book Planet Palm. It’s an engaging and accessible look at a complex issue. Hurst & Company £20

NADIYA HUSSAIN PORTRAIT: CHRIS TERRY

TIP OF THE MONTH One small step “I organise my fridge before a food shop, so I know exactly what I need to buy. Take a ‘shelfie’ of the fridge to remind you at the supermarket, so you don’t over-purchase.” Nadiya Hussain MBE partnered with Love Food Hate Waste for Food Waste Action Week in March 2021

Fortnum’s has introduced a new line of 99% emissionfree chocolate, made on the Caribbean island of Grenada and transported to the UK on an oldfashioned sailboat. The chocolate crosses the Atlantic on the boat before being tempered and packaged in Ireland. What’s good The concept. While sailboats will never replace giant, oil-guzzling cargo ships, this is an imaginative alternative. What’s not so good The prices are as eye-watering as the Atlantic wind. Sailboat Chocolate, £24.95/180g, fortnumand mason.com

Green kitchen

Katy Salter is on a mission to help us all be more ethical in the way we cook and eat. Her advice may change your life

Ideas for sustainable living

The green outdoors Make picnics an eco-friendly affair with these sustainable picks… 1. STURDY STRAWS We put these bamboo paper straws to the dunk test: strong and better at holding their shape than regular paper straws. The Cheeky Panda Bamboo Straws, £2.99/ 100 straws, cheekypanda.com 2. SUSTAINABLE SARNIES Give your butties a makeover. Instead of foil or a single-use bag, pop them into one of these self-sealing beeswax sandwich bags. BeeBagz Lunch Pack, £19.99/ 3 bags, peacewiththewild.co.uk 3. CARRIED AWAY The insulated lining and outer fabric of this jolly picnic bag are made from recycled plastic bottles. Frugi Pack a Picnic Lunch Bag, £18, frugi.com

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5 of the best

1. Gozney Roccbox With a design informed by the company’s background d in commercial pizza ovens, it’s w built, safe to touch and loo oks ks the business. The thick (30m ) stone gives even base-cris ng and it can reach the crucial 500°C, cooking your pizza in 60 seconds. Watch it carefully e l though – it’s a fine line bettween e underdone and carbon. Get it right and glory awaits. Heat-up time 20-30 minutes. Best thing Gets that authentic leopard-spot char on the crust. t. Worst thing The (optional) wood-fired attachment is a tricky customer. £399, gozney.com (gas canister required)

2. Optima Pizza Express Napoli It may look like a forgotten prototype from the 1970s, butt this is an effective little plug-in electric gadget. Made near Modena in Italy (and nothing to do with the UK pizza chain), it’s Ferrari red with a top ‘speed’ of 450°C. The stone cooking surface gives good 12-inch pizza in 4-5 minutes. Heat-up time 15 minutes. Best things Good for small spaces – and a relative bargain. Worst thing It’s not ideal for outdoors, so don’t spill topping on the stone or your smoke alarm’s not gonna be happy. £149, pizzaunited.co.uk 118 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

3. DeliVita If James Bond had a pizza oven, this is the model he’d be rocking. Handmade in Yorkshire, it’s Aston Martin sleek, the clay oven covered in a fibreglass shell in a choice of colours, and it even stays cool underneath. It’s wood-fired, but you can get it to 500°C surprisingly quickly. Heat-up time 20-30 minutes. Best thing It can sit outside in all weathers. Worst thing You’ll need to make an awful lot of pizza to get your money back. £1,295, delivita.com

4. Ventura Speziale multi-fuel oven The ‘designed in Germany’ tag may catch your eye, and this is a cutie, the Thomas the Tank Engine of pizza ovens. The billowing chimney will give your 500°C pizza session theatre. Heat-up time 25 minutes Best thing The two fuel options, gas or wood pellets, as standard. Worst thing For a hol, the detachable chimney is an extra thing to carry. £345, homepizzaovens. co.uk (fuel required)

5. Ooni Koda 12 This is the compact, gas-fired model for 12-inch pizzas from the popular Ooni range (there’s an excellent 16-inch version too). It ticks the 500°C box and achieves blistered-on-top perfection in about a minute. Heat-up time 15 minutes. Best thing Gives you Gozneystyle results for £100 less. Worst thing It gets very hot on the outside. £299, uk.ooni.com (gas canister required)

WORDS/TESTING: THEA EVERETT, LES DUNN, FIONA LOGAN, JEN BEDLOE, AGGIE MACKENZIE

These babies get HOT HO – and that’s what gives v you the crucial cr p puffy-blistered com mbo. b They’re all portabl f camping hols too

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GOLDEN ORB Creamy solstice is a celebration of summer

Support British producers!

UK cheese tour

…with Patrick McGuigan. This month’s headline act on the cheese stage will rock your world

WHY YOU NEED IT IN YOUR LIFE Glastonbury festival might be cancelled this year, but it’s still possible to get a flavour of the beautiful Somerset landscape through the medium of cheese. Dusky rinded solstice is made on a farm close to the festival site and is named in honour of June’s midsummer celebration. THE BACKSTORY White Lake Cheese is best known for goat’s cheeses, made with milk from its own herd, but owner Roger Longman has also turned his hand to other styles, made with locally sourced Guernsey milk. The milk is rich in butterfat and betacarotene, a pigment from the grass that gives the cheeses a golden sunset glow. WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL? Solstice was inspired by Longman’s love of époisses. The powerful soft cheese from Burgundy is rubbed with grape brandy during maturation until it’s pungent and sticky.

White Lake uses Somerset Cider Brandy instead, ‘washing’ the rind to develop funky flavours, from boozy and fruity to spicy and meaty. This is balanced by a soft interior full of lactic notes and a texture that becomes oozy over time. HOW TO ENJOY Solstice can sit happily on a cheeseboard with a few cornichons – their crunch and acidity provide contrast. Alternatively, bake it until molten and dip into it with crusty bread or griddled asparagus spears. A few slices in a bacon sarnie with a dollop of cranberry sauce is a weekend treat. Washed rind cheeses can be a tricky match for wine, but gewürztraminer from Alsace works beautifully – the soft, floral notes of the wine dovetail with the aromatic rind. But for the full Glastonbury experience (without the mud), pour a glass of medium-dry cider. Sweet, tangy apples and refreshing bubbles cut through the creamy cheese in a rocking West Country combo.

Solstice CHEESEMAKER

White Lake Cheese, Somerset

STYLE

Soft, washed rind cow’s milk cheese; pasteurised

AGE

6-8 weeks

VEGGIE?

Yes

BEST DRINKS MATCH

Gewürztraminer or cider

PERFECT PARTNER

Cornichons

CAN YOU EAT THE RIND?

Absolutely

TALK LIKE A CHEESE GURU “The Somerset Cider Brandy rubbed on the rind is made by Julian Temperley, father of famous fashion designer Alice Temperley.” BUY IT £6.95 for a whole 200g cheese; whitelake.co.uk

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 119

Cheers!

Susy Atkins picks her bottles of the month, suggests visiting a vineyard near you and explains why we should be feeling in the pink this summer

The expert guide to... ROSÉ

f you thought pink wine is made by blending red and white, think again. The majority of rosés are created by the saignée (bleeding) method; red grapes are gently crushed, their skins left to soak with the clear juice until it’s stained exactly the right colour required (usually a few hours). The pink liquid is then run off and fermented just like a white wine, usually under cold temperatures in stainless steel vats. Rosé is a relatively delicate wine, bottled quickly after it’s made, to be enjoyed while those come-hither red-berry aromas and flavours are young, fresh and lively. Top tip, then: avoid old rosés, which have probably lost their bloom. Provence’s pale, bone-dry pinks are in vogue, with many other regions imitating this style. Bordeaux and southwest pinks can hit a fine fruity-but-dry balance, Iberian and New World rosés tend towards juicy, bright versions, while cheaper pinks from California are sweeter. Always chill rosé. Match it with charcuterie, white fish and shellfish, sushi, tomato couscous and grilled red peppers. 120 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Found Vinho Verde Rosé 2020, Portugal 11% A rare pink vinho verde, from the new Found range of more unusual wines at M&S. It’s a spritzy, dry rosé with a core of cranberry and pear-drops; some fresh raspberry on the finish. £7, Marks & Spencer

Katie Jones Rosé 2020, Languedoc, France 12.5% Red carignan grapes give cherryish depth while a smidgeon of muscat adds fragrance and fresh peachiness. A firm favourite from the French-based British winemaker. £12, inveraritymorton.com

Château des Ferrages Roumery Rosé 2019, Côtes de Provence, France 13% Sophisticated Provençal pink, dry and mineral with a grapefruit tang, light strawberries and a white pepper twist. Chill well for prawns or scallops. £11.99, darcywine.co.uk

Spotlight on... Aber Falls small batch gin

Named after, and close to, the famous waterfalls on the edge of Snowdonia, the Aber Falls distillery, will be well worth a visit as soon as we can. In the meantime its small batch gin (43%) is a well balanced delight. It’s juniper-led with a subtle floral hint and peppery finish. Botanicals include those local to north Wales, such as rowan berries. All 70cl: £29.65, masterofmalt. com; £29.95, drinksdirect.com; £32, aberfallsdistillery.com

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Fine times amid the vines Put English Wine Week, Saturday 19 to Sunday 27 June, on your calendar. With restrictions easing, many vineyards will be open for tours and tastings, and touring the vines in a small group PS... Welsh (not to mention sipping the wines Wine Week is afterwards) is a fun way to get Friday 4 June to Sunday outdoors this summer. 13 June drinkwelsh.co.uk Wine retailers (independents as well as major stores) will be running offers on English wine during this time. Do check out the still wines this year. We all know about excellent English fizz – now the chardonnay, pinot noir, bacchus and pinot blanc are coming of age. Go to winegb.co.uk for details of activities and offers during English Wine Week

Take a stroll among the grapes for English Wine Week

VINEYARD PHOTOGRAPHS: GUSBOURNE, SIMPSONS WINE ESTATE, @DANWILTONPHOTO

Bottles of the month Drinks for BBQs and outdoor parties – and a crisp alternative to sauvignon blanc

Extra Special Douro 2019, Portugal 13.5% A gorgeously ripe, plummy and damson-packed red from the Douro Valley – Portugal’s port country. There’s a dash of spice here; it’s a good one for barbecued peppery sausages and pork chops. £6.50, Asda

Greek Assyrtiko 2020, Filos Estate, Aspri Petra Vineyard, Florina 13%

Assyrtiko is a great Greek grape which appeals to lovers of crisp, dry whites; this is slightly salty with a fresh lemon streak. A refreshing change from sauvignon blanc. £6.99, Aldi

Carpenè-Malvolti Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry, Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy NV 11% Summery sparkler with masses of tiny bubbles, apples and fresh pear fruit, off-dry with a mandarin orange tang. Best prosecco on the high street. £10.80, The Co-op

Wilfred’s Bittersweet

Orange & Rosemary Aperitif, London 0% A ruby red alcohol-free aperitif with herby, spicy notes and a bitter citrus twist, best topped up with cold tonic, ice and a slice. £17.95/50cl, thealcoholfree co.co.uk; £17.99, wisebartender.co.uk

Kecia McDougall distils her 1992 Raspberry Liqueur in the heartland of Scotland’s berry farms

Champion producers

The taste of summer in a glass Looking for something to mix with prosecco this summer by the barbecue? How about an award-winning raspberry liqueur, not from France but Fife

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hen Tayport Distillery in Fife, Scotland ﬁrst started making its 1992 Raspberry Liqueur (which wasn’t, incidentally, in 1992), they used surplus fresh fruit from local farmers. “We wanted to source everything from within a 50-mile radius and to work with farmers to use up produce they couldn’t sell,” says American-born Kecia McDougall, a former nurse who hung up her NHS scrubs to open the distillery in 2017. MADE FROM SCRATCH The liqueur was a winner of three stars at the 2020 Great Taste Awards as well as the Great Taste Golden Fork for Scotland’s best product, and with production now in excess of 700 bottles a month, it’s become so popular that the distillery can no longer rely solely on surplus fruit. Nevertheless, Tayport still stands by its sourcing ethos, working with farms in Fife, Tayside and Angus to deliver the taste of summer in a glass year-round. “Everything we use is fresh and local,” says Kecia. The 20% abv liqueur, the ‘Scottish crème de framboise’, is made entirely from scratch. “It’s a laborious process that takes a lot of patience and care,” says Kecia. “The

raspberries are collected from the farms and macerated for up to three months, then the final liquid is triple filtered for clarity. Raspberries can be messy but the aroma in the distillery makes your mouth water.” KEEPING THE SPIRITS UP Tayport’s ‘from scratch’ approach even extends to the base spirit, which the company distills from barley sourced from a farm in Edinburgh. It’s the base of all the company’s creations including 1992 Blackcurrant Liqueur, four eau-de-vies, two gins and a vodka. The malted barley yields a spirit with a creamy vanilla flavour and a chocolate edge. “Although we use this for all our drinks, its flavour profile is most discernible in our vodka, as that’s pure alcohol, no additions,” says Kecia.

“Raspberries can be messy but the aroma throughout the distillery makes your mouth water”

WHAT DOES IT TASTE LIKE? One of the Great Taste judges commented: “Wow! Freshly picked raspberries and a remembrance of red fruit pastilles. Bright, clean berry ﬂavours with a deep sweetness, which is well balanced with the acidity.” And the signiﬁcance of 1992? That was the year Kecia married her Scottish husband Duncan. Here’s to both of them...

delicious.

is delighted to support The Great Taste Awards. To discover more about them, what they’re about and how they’re judged, visit delicious magazine.co.uk

WHERE TO BUY IT Tayport Distillery’s 1992 Raspberry Liqueur costs £22 for 50cl WORDS: LYNDA SEARBY. PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD FAULKS, GETTY IMAGES

or £12.50 for 20cl at tayportdistillery.com and Co-op stores across Scotland

How to use the liqueur Serve simply with ice, add a splash to a glass of prosecco or try in a bramble cocktail. If you’re feeling more adventurous, pour it over ice cream or use it in these recipes (right). Search for them at deliciousmagazine.co.uk

White chocolate and raspberry trifle Replace the amaretto with the raspberry liqueur

Raspberry ripple and pistachio parfait Add a little liqueur to the raspberry sauce

Almond blancmange with blackcurrant sauce Replace blackcurrants with raspberries and liqueur deliciousmagazine.co.uk 123

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June ESSENTIAL INFO ABOUT OUR RECIPES

100

STARTERS, SIDES & NIBBLES • Beetroot, walnut and wasabi dip 78 • Cauliflower, parmesan and anchovy fritters 40 • Cheddar, chive and Marmite scones 20 • Sicilian-style flattened bread with grapes 42 MAIN COURSES Poultry • Cajun chicken drumsticks with charred pineapple wedges 32 • Chicken and black bean burritos with mojo verde 51 • Enchiladas with tomatillo salsa 52 • Sticky sesame chicken skewers with noodle salad 87

Beef, lamb, pork and game • Courgette flatbreads with ham, peaches and burrata 90 • Ibérico pork loin with sherry roasted tomatoes, peppers and butter beans 58 • Party nachos with chorizo and spicy cheese sauce 50 • Pork chops with caraway seed rub and pull-apart bread rolls 31 • Sausages with braised courgettes and polenta 66 • Sticky beef tacos with creamy avocado dressing and green pico de gallo 51 • Sticky sausage meatball noodles 8 • Stuffed aubergines with pork, pine nuts, rice and ricotta 46 • T-bone steak with coffee rub and rosemary potatoes 26 • Vietnamese-style meatball subs (bahn mi) 88 Fish and seafood • Creamy salmon pasta bake 93 • Salmon with lemon and ginger rub and a fennel salad 31 • Trout grilled in banana leaf with Asian-style slaw 29 Vegetarian, vegan and vegetable-based • Baked tofu satay 72 • Caponata with couscous 74 • Chilled fennel and broad bean soup 42 • Dauphinois potato and leek pie with a cheesy crust 60

• Feta parcels with grilled courgettes and peaches 34 • Feta, spinach, pea and sweetcorn pie 89 • Kale salad with almond chilli sauce 75 • Mushroom burger 130 • Nutty sweet potato and spinach curry 76 • Orzo with roasted veg sauce 76 • Ricotta, parmesan and lemon ravioli with wild garlic 44 • Roast aubergines and giant couscous with tzatziki 86 • Veggie fritters 94 SWEET THINGS • Eton mess roulade 62 • Limoncello semifreddo with cherries 47 • Margarita cheesecake with tequila strawberries 53 • Pink fondant fancies 99 • Saffron buns 112 • Strawberry and lemon drizzle madeleines 100 • Strawberry custard creams 96 OTHER • Classic margarita 54 • Frozen mango margarita with jalapeño tequila 56 • Pasta dough 44 • Pickled cucumbers with dill and oak leaves 36 • Raspberry margarita 56

Our symbols explained Indicates you can freeze all or most of the recipe. Unless stated otherwise, freeze the finished dish for up to 3 months. Defrost and heat until piping hot. Vegetarian Vegan Gluten free Dairy free These recipes are suitable for special diets provided you choose the appropriate free-from ingredients. Many ingredients can contain hidden animal products, gluten or dairy – always check the label. Prep and cooking times All our timings include prep. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, assembling, stirring or frying. Oven/ simmering time is when you can leave the dish to cook in the oven or on the hob. Nutritional information Recipes are analysed for nutritional content by an expert nutritionist. Calculations may vary, depending on your choice of ingredients, and include listed ingredients only. Our suppliers Fresh eggs for our test kitchen are supplied by Clarence Court (clarencecourt.co.uk) and meat from The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk) Prices These are correct at time of going to press. Oven temperatures We give fan oven and gas mark temperatures in our recipes. For conventional ovens without a fan, add 20°C to the fan oven temperature given.

OUR GENERAL TERMS & CONDITIONS 1. All information forms part of the terms and conditions. 2. Competitions open to UK residents aged 18 and over, except employees (and their families) of Eye to Eye Media Ltd or any other associated company. 3. Prizes are as offered. No cash alternatives. Subject to availability. 4. To enter, unless otherwise stated, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ promotions and follow the instructions. No purchase necessary. One entry per household. 5. Unless specified otherwise, entry to the competitions ends 30 June 2021. 6. Entries received after the closing date will not be considered. 7. No responsibility is taken for entries lost or delayed. 8. Winners will be selected by an independent panel. The judges’ decision is final: no correspondence will be entered into. 9. Winners will be notified directly and their names listed at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions. 10. Winners agree to take part in publicity. 11. Information given will not be supplied to a third party. 12. Eye to Eye Media Ltd reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions, or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion, if deemed necessary in its opinion.

124 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

puzzles.

Take five 5

2 44

3 44

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44 12

13 44

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17 44 44

THE delicious. FOOD QUIZ

BY QUIZ-MEISTER HUGH THOMPSON

According to American writer Ambrose Bierce (1842-1913) which sauce “serves the French in place of a state religion”?

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a) Béarnaise b) Hollandaise c) Mayonnaise

15 44 18 44

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PRIZE CROSSWORD NO. 29

Complete the puzzle, take a picture and email it to info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk for a chance to win* CROSSWORD PRIZE Win organic honey worth £50, sourced by Honey Heaven from Hungary. The bees collect pollen from wildflower meadows and pristine forests for a wonderful tasting, nutritious honey. honeyheaven.co.uk

CROSSWORD BY HUGH THOMPSON. CRYPTIC CLUE BY LES DUNN. *FOR TS&CS SEE P124

Across 1 Sharp citrussy root popular in Thai and Southeast Asian cuisine (8) 7 _____ Island Red, popular chicken breed from the US (5) 8 Old-fashioned word for a party or feast (5) 9 You don’t want this pest to get into your flour (6) 10 Key part of medieval diet and still popular today, esp at 8 across (4) 12 Preserve meat or fish using salt, sugar, smoke or nitrate/nitrite (4) 14 Type of pie that’s humiliating to eat – originally made with offal (6) 17 Herb whose seeds have a liquorice flavour (5) 18 Cut of steak from the diaphragm, also sometimes called hanger (5) 19 Sweet-sour flavouring used in Southeast Asian and Indian cooking (8)

Down 1 Large edible bird, said to make a good ‘watchdog’ (5) 2 German scientist; invented a condenser, Fray Bentos corned beef and what was to become Oxo (6) 3 Cocoa ____: small parts of fermented, roasted and crushed cocoa bean (4) 4 Spiny desert plant (same family as asparagus), whose sap is harvested (5) 5 Fished around the UK, this crustacean can be dressed to impress (5,4) 6 Popular summer vegetable used to make ratatouille (9) 11 Healthy breakfast item, originally developed as hospital food (6) 13 Cooling Indian/South Asian side dish made with yogurt (5) 15 When pastry is baked thus, it helps prevent a soggy bottom (5) 16 Pickled or salted Greek sheep’s or goat’s curd cheese (4) ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD NO. 27 ACROSS 1 Turmeric 7 Lotus 8 Glaze 9 Epices 10 Gyro 12 Inca 14 Brazil 17 NSAID 18 Tepid 19 Semolina DOWN 1 & 11 Tutti frutti 2 Russet 3 Eggs 4 Iraty 5 Blue vinny 6 Remoulade 13 Crave 15 Zuppa 16 Eddo

What spice other than cinnamon is key for the Swedish buns kanelbulle? a) Allspice b) Cardamom c) Nutmeg

In which month is beaujolais nouveau released for drinking?

Which author first referenced the British habit of eating fried fish? a) Samuel Johnson in 1763 b) Charles Dickens in 1837 c) Mark Twain 1862

Strawberry, apricot, cherry and apple all are…

a) From the rose family b) Poisonous in their uncultivated state c) The most popular fruit conserve flavours

The mouthwatering dessert, pavlova, made with meringue, cream and fruit, was named after the...

a) Russian scientist Pavlov and his salivating dogs b) Russian ballet dancer Anna Pavlova c) Celebrated AustralianRussian chef Igor Pavlova

In the classic children’s TV series The Herbs, what animal was Parsley? a) A very friendly lion b) A very clever dog c) A very pretty parrot

What food is the Irish town of Clonakilty best known for? a) Boxty (potato pancakes) b) Barmbrack (fruit cake) c) Black pudding

How many calories was a medieval peasant’s diet compared to a modern one? a) About half the calories b) Roughly the same calories c) About twice the calories

What’s a sabayon (also called zabaglione)?

ANSWERS 1) c 2) b 3) November 4) b (in Oliver Twist he mentions a ‘Fried fish warehouse’ in Saffron Hill) 5) a (also almonds) 6) b (both Australia and New Zealand lay claim to its invention after the ballerina toured the countries) 7) a 8) c (it’s made, unusually, from beef blood) 9) c (labouring for 12 hour days used up a lot of energy most of it derived from veg stew, ale and bread) 10) A sweet sauce or dessert made from eggs, sugar and wine (often madeira or marsala)

There are prizes to be won and foodie fun to be had with our page of brain teasers

CRYPTIC CLUE WIN A £50 CO-OP GIFT CARD

£50

GIFT CA

RD For your chance to win £50 to spend in store, solve the cryptic clu on the magazine spine, then email you , with your name, full UK address and phone number, to info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk by 30 June 2021*. Solution to April’s clue: sausage rolls deliciousmagazine.co.uk 125

me time.

VEGAN RECIPE

Mushroom burger Serves 1 Hands-on time 15 min You’ll also need Griddle pan Use any herb combo you fancy for the herb and garlic oil. Chives, tarragon, thyme, marjoram or rosemary all work well. Mushrooms not your thing? Griddle EASY SWAPS

NEXT MONTH Grilled gyros with halloumi and chips 130 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Get into the dirty vegan vibe with this mountainous treat. Everyone else: hands off!

long slices of courgette and pepper or aubergine ‘steaks’ instead. • 2 tbsp avocado or olive oil • 1 tbsp finely chopped soft herbs (we used parsley, basil and oregano – see Easy Swaps) • 1 small garlic clove, crushed • 1 large or 2-3 small portobello mushrooms, stalks trimmed • Juice ½ lemon

• 1 ciabatta bun, halved • 2 tbsp red pesto (make sure it’s vegan if you need it to be) • 2 tbsp vegan garlic aioli (we like Leon’s version) • Small handful rocket leaves 1 Heat a griddle pan (or the BBQ) over a medium-high heat. Whisk the oil, herbs and garlic in a small bowl with a pinch of salt and pepper. Brush the mushroom(s) with some herb oil and cook for 4-5 minutes on each side until lightly charred. Squeeze over the lemon juice. 2 Brush the cut sides of the ciabatta with a little more herb oil, then griddle, cut-side down, for 1-2 minutes until lightly toasted. 3 Spread the bun base with pesto, then top with the rocket, mushrooms and any remaining oil. Spread the burger lid with the aioli, sandwich together and eat – with a napkin for those drips of garlicky oil. Per serving 733kcals, 56.1g fat (6.7g saturated), 12.6g protein, 41.5g carbs (6.6g sugars), 1.7g salt, 6g fibre

Try this with SXOLLIE Golden Delicious apple cider (4.5%, South Africa) The lemon streak and lively flavours of red pesto and garlic aioli complement this cider’s off-dry qualities, and mushrooms go well with it too. Advertisement feature

RECIPE: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: DAN JONES. FOOD STYLING: JULES MERCER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

Not for sharıng Recipe for one

PAPER REVOLUTION 72% of paper and paper packaging is recycled into new products; one of the highest recycling rates of any material in Europe!

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